Textile Dexter Hsu

dexter.sparkle@gmail.com

Content

• The importance of textile

• Classification by structure

• Classification by raw material

• Textile innovation – engineered mesh/primeknit

The Importance of Textile

• Lighter => suitable for sports footwear• More changes in pattern => fashionable• Can be functional => anti-odor, quick-dry,

cooling, warming• Pattern can be engineered =>

increase manufacturing efficiency for footwear

Classification by Structure

Textile

Knitting

WeavingWarp KnittingWeft Knitting

Non-woven

Classification by StructureWeaving

• Imagine jeans for the structure• less stretch• Fraying issue after cutting => coating at

backside, laminating reinforcement or laser cut

Classification by StructureWeft Knitting

• No knots tied, loops interlinked with each other

• Stretch in weft direction• Easily to tear up in weft direction• Good for lining

Classification by StructureWarp Knitting

• Upper needle ties knots with bottom needle• Less stretch than weft knitting• stronger, better abrasion and tear strength

=> ideal for upper

Classification by StructureSandwich Mesh

• A kind of warp knitting• Good breathability• Ticker: better in physical

property

Classification by StructureNon-woven

• Structure is like animal skin (that’s why some synthetic leathers use non-oven backer)

• Almost no stretch• Apply in reinforcement or insole

Classification by Raw Material

Textile

Natural

Artificial

Cotton, Linen, Wool, Silk

Polyester, Nylon, Spandex

Classification by Raw MaterialNatural

• Need more allowance on color matching (there is original shade)

• Much longer leadtime if no forecast

Classification by Raw MaterialArtificial

• From chips to yarn• Invented by chemical

company, e.g. Dupont, to satisfy increasing demand

Classification by Raw MaterialComparison

Dye Temp.

Dye Stuff

Anti- yellowing

Anti- heat Other Property

Polyester 130℃ Disperse O O* Easy for migration if

re- heated

Nylon 100℃ Acid X X* Shiny look* Good abrasion

CDP 115℃ Acid X O* Polyester with nylon

property* Good anti-migration

Spandex X X X X * Stretch

Question

• Why some materials can have 2 colors ?

• Why material with spandex is easier to have color migration?

Textile InnovationEngineered Mesh

• Pattern and graphic are integrated into material by roll

• Need allowance in positioning

Weaving Type

Knitting Type Shoe photos from adidas Group

Textile InnovationPrimeknit

• Pattern and graphic are integrated into material by piece

• Saving die-cut time• Need allowance in positioning

Shoe photos from adidas Group