textileproductionsince 1834 made ingermany sustainable...

Lauffenmühle GmbH & Co KG

Textile Production since 1834 Made in Germany

Lauffenmühle GmbH & Co. KG

Textile Production since 1834 ‐Made in Germany

Sustainable Textile Processes: Cradle to CradleSustainable Textile Processes: Cradle to Cradle

‐ A Friendly Proposal to Our Planet ‐

Sustainable Textile Processes: Cradle to Cradle ‐ A Friendly Proposal to Our Planet ‐

AGENDA

1. Who is Lauffenmühle – and why do we care?y

2. What does Cradle to Cradle mean?

3. Challenges of C2C Fabrics & Accessories for Corporate & Workwear

4 Textile Network Management4. Textile Network Management• Who is participating in the project?• What are the Challenges for Project Partners?

5. Facts about the Development Process, RawMaterials & Degradation

6 Result: Sustainable & Integrative System Solution6. Result: Sustainable & Integrative System Solution

7. Feedback of the Market & Preview

Lauffenmühle GmbH & Co. KG | Corona Bregenzer www.lauffenmuehle.deMistra Future Fashion Symposium: Status May 2014 / 21


• Long‐established company Lauffenmühle:180 years experience in textile manufacturing

1. Who is Lauffenmühle – and why do we care?

180 years experience in textile manufacturing

• Since 1834, the founding year as a textile company, until today, Lauffenmühle steadily developed to an contemporary fully integrated textile company.

• Situated in one of the most beautiful regions in Europe:In the southern Black Forest close to Austria Switzer

on

In the southern Black Forest, close to Austria, Switzer‐land and France – directly at the small river ‚Wutach‘.

novatio

Today, Lauffenmühle is one of the fewfully integrated

n & In

nfully integratedtextile manufacturers in Europe:

• spinning & weaving

radition• spinning & weaving

location: D‐Lauchringen

• & finishing

Lauffenmühle GmbH & Co. KG | Corona Bregenzer www.lauffenmuehle.deMistra Future Fashion Symposium:

Trlocation: D‐Lörrach

Status May 2014 / 21


Preliminary Corporate Data as at 31 12 2013

1. Who is Lauffenmühle – and why do we care?

• Staff 288 staff members (without trainees)

Preliminary Corporate Data as at 31.12.2013

• Trainees 28 trainees

• Export rate 47 %

• Locations D‐Lauchringen (Spinning, Weaving)

D‐Lörrach (Finishing)

• Products Fabrics being used for:Products Fabrics being used for:• Corporate‐ and Workwear,• Hygiene & Healthcare and• Protectivewear re

s

Protectivewear

• Fabric Brands Relax, Tec Cell®, Galaxy,Shirtline, Classic, Youngster, &

Figur

, , g ,Rebecca le Chef, Rebecca a laCarte, Startec, Warntec,Com4‐Guard®, PSA‐Specials Fa

cts &



1. Who is Lauffenmühle – and why do we care?Sustainability is grown traditionally & implemented strategically…

ntÖ

agem

enHuman Ecology: Öko‐Tex‐Standard 100also product class 1, so called. ‚baby class‘

Production Ecology: ISO 14001 Environmental management

l man

amanagement

ISO 50001 Energy management

Sustainability / Products: bluesign® standard

EnvironmentHealth / ConsumerSafety / Worker ‐ Supply Chain

men

taEnviron


E



General Choice of Waste Treatment


General Choice of Waste Treatment

• Shortage of Space • Air Pollution

• Waste remains • Global Warming

Landfill Incineration

Recycle Biodegradation

Best environmental • Ideally but not feasiblepractice:

Refeed into the bi l i l l

to all (exceptionally composite or blended)

materials

• Rarely without downgrade

Lauffenmühle GmbH & Co. KG | Corona Bregenzer www.lauffenmuehle.deMistra Future Fashion Symposium: Status May 2014

biological cycle• Rarely without downgrade

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Cradle to Cradle® ‐ Do not generate waste any more:After its lifecycle each product will again be the basis for new life and thus for new raw material.Nature as an archetype is constantly reflected in the development of a Cradle to Cradle® product:Nature as an archetype is constantly reflected in the development of a Cradle to Cradle product: from a few flowers, new trees arise. All the blooms that are not used for reproduction, fall to the ground and become nutrients for other organisms.

Implementation:Endless biological recycling of all materials (including ingredients) being used.

Challenge:To find a biodegradable alternative for each of the product components,while ensuring the full performance of the product

Photosynthesis

while ensuring the full performance of the product.

The 3 Cradle to Cradle® principles:1 C l t f d

infinito®‐yarn

Decomposition

1. Cycle: waste = food

2. Energy: use of renewable energy

3. Diversity: maintaining the multiplicity and balance


y g p y



3. Challenges of C2C Fabrics & Accessoriesbeing used for Corporate & Workwear

C I b thConsequence: In both cases a long lasting lifecycle of the garments is expected, which means:means:

•minimum 50 washing cycles / industrial laundry

•and partially extreme mechanical stress on the fabrics during the wearing‐cycles (as it is workwear)

•Laundry under industrial conditions is not comparable pwith domestic wash – it causes also extreme mechanical stress on the garments (huge tumblers)

•Temperatures for industrial‐ washing processes: 95°C


g p‐ drying processes: 175°C



4. Textile Network Management• Who is participating in the project?

What are the Challenges for Project Partners?When we decided to step ahead with pioneering Cradle to Cradle solutions for the huge Workwearmarket potential, we knew exactly about our limitations as a specialist in producing fabrics – so we decided to involve following project participants:

• What are the Challenges for Project Partners?

decided to involve following project participants:

• Bierbaum‐Proenen,as a manufacturer of high‐quality work‐ and corporate wear, standing for innovative workwear‐concepts. CHALLENGE: Dealing with new fabrics and a new type of accessories (different in p g yp (treating) ‐> being dependent on ongoing developments

• EPEA (Environmental Protection Encouragement Agency) & EPEA Switzerland,EPEA is an independent interdisciplinary scientific institute with focus on defining materials and material flows using the Cradle to Cradle Design principle for all industries. EPEA was founded in 1987 by Dr. Michael Braungart, former leader of Chemical Division of Greenpeace. EPEA Switzerland develops and implements together with a team of experienced industry and business managers Cradle to Cradle® products and services in cooperation with the scientific institute EPEAmanagers Cradle to Cradle products and services in cooperation with the scientific institute EPEA Internationale Umweltforschung GmbH in the Alpine Region (Austria, Switzerland) and the Textile Industry worldwide.CHALLENGE: Acting in a new market ( Workwear / Textile Services), examinating compatible raw materials & dealing with different ingredients, such as chemicals / dyestuff

• Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute,a californian non‐profit organisation who is responsible for all the means of Cradle to Cradle


product certification processing; Challenges as above



b h l i l & d i

Main tasks and challenges during development process:

5. Facts about the Development Process, Raw Material & Degradation

• To find according raw material, instead of polyester, which has to be safe for biological cyclesBut ‐ as shown before, our products are quite a big challenge:– Beside an excellent wearer comfort, good touch & surface properties of the fabric, we needed

– Highest technical performance during lifecycle / wearing phases (resistance against mechanical stress, light, moisture, soil & stains)

– Highest technical performance during lifecycle / processes of industrial laundries (pilling, shrinkage, crease, light, moisture, chlorine etc.)

• To find according additives/auxiliary means, e.g. dyestuff etc., which have to be safe for biological cycleswhich was not easy – as they’ll have to fulfill also the criterea as mentioned above

• Last but not least, we needed the trust of all project partners including suppliers for this projectas all of the above mentioned partners needed to disclose their formulas, recipes and production processes

hi h i th d t f th bi t h ll f th j t T hi th t il twhich in the end meant one of the biggest challenges of the project: To achieve that milestonewouldn’t have been possible without the stake of independent institutes – acting as Knowledge Trustees –who needed to support with their team of scientists (analytical chemists, biologists …)

T d l & f b i d f t ti d b ff i th f d d• To develop yarns & fabrics, made from components as mentioned above, offering the performance needed

• To do all the testing for biodegradability by composting fibres, fabrics & garments / ongoing (accessories)

• The product design and certification process itself meant material research & assessment as well as process evaluation: 1. Material Assessment

2. Material Alternative Research

3. Focus on Industrial Material Streams

4. Network Management

5. Supply Chain Management

6. Knowledge Trustee Position


It was a quite hard way to step through all stages to fulfill all requirements of accredited assessor body C2CPII – USA



b h l i l & d i

infinito®: made of oil‐based and ecofriendly degradable polymer


Bi 3GT

Decomposability Oil based Bio-sourced↓

Non‐biodegradable:

Commodity Polymers:

PE, PP, Nylon, PET

Bio3GT

infinito®

Cotton

Bio‐degradable: infinito

PLA

Bio degradable:

I Ch f N


Important Character from Nature

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b h l i l & d i

infinito®: fibres, made from an oil‐based polymer (needs no land suitable for food) which is safe for biological cycles Advantage: it can be blended with natural fibres and


which is safe for biological cycles. Advantage: it can be blended with natural fibres and will strengthen them.

Innovation: Artificial Fibre + Traditionally used for

Polyester/Cotton‐Blend infinito®/ Natural or bio‐sourced Fibre Blend

Degradable Feature:⇓Work‐ and Corporatewear:

• Non‐degradable

I i i i h l• Degradable (same as e.g. cotton and wool)

• Incineration is the only way

• Not easy to recycle

• Widely used nowadays

• Material Returns to the Earth by Natural Process

• infinito®: strengthens natural fibres

• Broad application possibilities


pp p

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b h l i l & d i

Raw Material „infinito®“


Environmental Performance

R d i th t f t i l b f th t i t l f i dlReducing the amount of waste in volume by one of the most environmental friendlymethods – compost: infinito® is an eco‐friendly degradable type of polymer decomposing over the time

d b l b b | b d f d d– Degradability in compost by microbe | Aerobe & defined conditions

Functional Performance

Taking advantage of infinito® properties to reinforce natural fibres which are also sustainable and degradable.

– Durability & technical performance– Durability & technical performance

– Ease of dye (fast dying, colour fastness)

– Static protection (quick water absorption)Static protection (quick water absorption)

– Softness (softer than Polyester)

– Brightness like silk

®



b h l i l & d i

Degradation of infinito®: Operating Mode


Degradation of infinito : Operating Mode

I. Hydrolysis

Ecco‐Friendly Degradation

In the specifically‐conditioned compost* infinito® is hydrolyzed (decrease in molecular(decrease in molecular weight and decrease in weight due to disin‐tegration) by water, heat

II. Degradation

and microorganism, and metabolized by microorganism to generate water and

CO2Water

generate water and carbon dioxide.

Conditions considering*: WaterBiomass / Bio‐energy• Humidity

• Temperature• PH‐Level



b h l i l & d i5. Facts about the Development Process, Raw Material & Degradation

infinito®‐fibre and reworx® ‐fabric degradation: visualised | sample‐fotosg | p

Second stepas thenwas then

testing thedegradation offabrics andgarmentsseperatly:

First step was testing thefibres of all components

reworx® fabricsmade from50/50 %

/ raw material seperatly:

1. infinito® fibres

50/50 %infinito®/ Lyocell(Tencel by Lenzing)

2. Tencel® fibres( y g)

1. Fabrics

2. Garments



b h l i l & d i

Important Fact: Decomposing without any harm to the soil or the environment.

5. Facts about the Development Process, Raw Materials & Degradation

Monocotyledonous plant growth test with infinito® degraded compost

No compost100 % soil

50 % Compost (without infinito®)

50 % Soil

50 % infinito® degradedCompost

50 % Soil50 % Soil(No Influence)



Result: Sustainable & Integrative System Solution: Yarns & Textiles

Take‐Make‐Use‐Regenerate: infinito® yarns / reworx® textiles are safe for biological systems, offer a climate control function, aresystems, offer a climate control function, are suitable for industrial laundering with excellent performance results for easy care, light fastness, high abrasion and pilling

i Th d i d i d dresistance. The product is designed and qualified to be used for work wear as well as for other high performance textile products and applications.pp

infinito® yarns / reworx® textiles are Cradle to CradleCM certified at gold level: After use and more than 50 cleaning cycles theand more than 50 cleaning cycles the products will be collected and forwarded to an industrial composting facility where the textiles will safely transform to humus ‐which then means living space for other organisms: new life is generated.



Result: Sustainable & Integrative System Solution:Apparel made with reworx® textiles

Work Wear, Apparel made with reworx® textiles are Cradle to CradleCM certified at silver l l f d h llevel: After use and more than 50 cleaning cycles the products will be collected and forwarded to an industrial composting facility where the textiles will safely transform to yhumus ‐ which then means living space for other organisms: new life is generated.

L ff hl t til i ti C dl tLauffenmuehle textile innovation. Cradle to Cradle certified Work Wear, Apparels made from reworx® textiles are exclusively produced by licencees of Lauffenmuehle GmbH & Co. KG, Germany, a fully vertically integrated textile manufacturer ‐ with more than 175 years of experience in producing yarns and textiles.First Licensee of Work Wear Apparel madeFirst Licensee of Work Wear, Apparel made from reworx®:

Bierbaum‐Proenen (BP)Collection BP Bio Cycle


Collection BP Bio Cycle

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Feedback of the market: • Products were first launched during A+A (Arbeitsschutz & Arbeitssicherheit) inter‐national Trade Fair in November 2013.

• The Feedback was overwhelming and several new projects are defined (We can’t announce them as there are secrecy agreements with our partners)secrecy agreements with our partners)

Preview:1 Continue the work on the toolkit1. Continue the work on the toolkit

containing accessories / partially we already do have solutions.

• Sewing Thread• Elastic Band• Buttons & Press Buttons• Zip Fasteners• Interfacing‐ / Enclosure‐FabricsInterfacing / Enclosure Fabrics

(to be used in collars etc.)

2. As degradability under aerobe circumstances does work out, we are

l ki f i dnow looking for partners to test it under anaerobe conditions

3. Follow up the very exciting above mentioned new projects


mentioned new projects

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Lauffenmühle GmbH & Co KGKadelburger Straße 11

D 79787 Lauchringen

Phone: +49 (0) 7741 602-0( )

Fax: +49 (0) 7741 602-388

info@lauffenmuehle [email protected]

www.lauffenmuehle.de


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