the 1995 chrysler lebaron - locksmith...

Publisher's Page ...............................................................page 3Director's Page ..................................................................page 4Starting Line .....................................................................page 5Fill It Up With Regular ...................................................page 8Life In The Fast Lane – Mercede ................................page 13Joe’s Garage .....................................................................page 22Dealing with Dealers ....................................................page 24How The Heck…? ..........................................................page 25Nuts & Bolts ....................................................................page 27Feature Articles:

The 1995 Chrysler LeBaron .......................................page 1The Z-Tool Story .......................................................page 40The Not-So-Amazing Ford Contour........................page 44Auto Parts ...................................................................page 48

The Official Publication of the

NATIONAL LOCKSMITHAUTOMOBILE ASSOCIATION™

SUMMER1995

TM

The 1995 Chrysler LeBaronSome significant changes to thwart thieves,

but not NLAA locksmiths.By Michael Hyde

FEATURE ARTICLE

he 1995 Chrysler LeBaronhas some changes for the

automotive locksmith. Chryslerhas made some changes to theignition because of car thefts.This model is popular withrental car fleets as well as carthieves. (See photograph 1.)

OpeningThis is an easy car to open, it

has vertical linkage that is notshielded. I used the Z-Tool fromSlide Lock Tool Co. to open thedoor. Use wedges and a light, ifnecessary. (See photograph 2.)

T

(Continued on page 31)

1. The1995ChryslerLeBaron.

Summer 1995 3

It's hard to believe that it is time to write another Publisher'sPage for the AUTOMOTIVE EDGE, your NLAA newsletter! Bynow you can see that the NLAA is doing good work to keep youat the forefront of the wild, wooly world of automotivelocksmithing.

There are a few notes to be aware of. Keep your eyes glued toThe National Locksmith magazine, for word of the new 1995 updatefor the AutoSmart manual. This will be a massive update,including a ton of information for the 1995 model year. So if youhave an AutoSmart, you will want this update. And if you don'tyet have an AutoSmart, what are you waiting for??

If you have an electronic mail address, be sure to send me anE Mail and give it to me. My E Mail address is [email protected] I receive your mail, I will put you on the list to receiveinformation and timely bulletins. You won't believe how muchgood information you can get quicker if you register with us.

Not long ago I wrote in The National Locksmith about a locksmithwho had made illegal photo copies of the AutoSmart and had soldthem out of his car trunk. We did put a quick stop to that guy,under threat of severe legal action. Moreover, I filed a grievancewith ALOA against this Maine based "gentleman," and he quicklyresigned from ALOA rather than defend himself.

Oh, want to hear the corker? This guy was also a member of theNLAA! Isn't that just MURPHY's law? Notice that I said he was amember of the NLAA.

Believe me, he won't be reading this copy of your association'snewsletter. I think his copy got lost in the mail.

FROM THE PUBLISHER

Marc Goldberg

National Locksmith Automobile Association™

PublisherMarc Goldberg

DirectorTom Seroogy

Printed in U.S.A.NLAA, a division of

National Publishing Co.Publishers of

THE NATIONAL LOCKSMITH

1533 Burgundy ParkwayStreamwood, Illinois 60107

Phone 708-837-2044Fax 708-837-1210

E-mail address: [email protected]

Unsolicited manuscripts areaccepted, but must include

SASE.© 1995 National Publishing Co.

All Rights Reserved

Summer 1995

We're off and running andthings are looking pretty good.In fact, at the end of this letter Ihave some pretty exciting newsfor all of our members. In themeantime, I know many of youhave questions regarding theNLAA. So, let me take thiscolumn to answer a few of themost common.

Q: Why do we have to wait untilafter 1 p.m. to call for technicalassistance?

A: Quite simply, each issue ofthe NLAA Bulletins and NLAAAutomotive Edge magazinedemands a large amount of timeto research and put together.The morning hours are whenthis is accomplished.

While only a couple of ourmembers have really made thisan issue, please realize that thetime I spend on the phoneduring those morning hours istaking away from theorganization as a whole.

It should also be stated thatbeing able to field questions notonly all day, but during theevening and on weekends is agoal we are working towards.

Thanks for your patience now!Q: Can you give me a code by the

VIN of the car?A: No. Not at this time. The

code/technical hotline is usedwhen you do not have theinformation for a known code,or you have questions regarding

a code. With many codesavailable through RoadsideAssistance Programs, trying tooffer a code-by-VIN service isredundant and unnecessary.

Q: How come you don't knowanything about the ...?

A: As stated in the previousnewsletters: NLAA isn't usknowing it all, it's all of usknowing.

I try to keep track of themajority of vehicles out on theroad. Unfortunately, havingboth information and first handexperience on all vehicles isimpossible. It's for this reason Irely on some of the best in theindustry. Direct contacts withAll-Lock, Strattec, Auto-SecurityProducts, as well as other majormanufacturers of automotiveproducts and services are just afew of the sources.

But then there's you. In fact,the first question in our "WhatThe Heck" column is asking forinformation on the MaseratiBiTurbo. This car has been inthe States for some time, yetvery little is known aboutspecific service procedures. So, Ipose this question to ourassociation members. Fill us inon this vehicle, so all membershave access to this information.(By the way, this information isfor members only!)

Plus, if you have questionsthat haven't been answered, let'sgive our membership a try.

Q: Does the NLAA covermotorcycles?

A: Yes, actually, we're going totry. The problem, however, isthat there doesn't seem to bemuch motorcycle informationavailable, especially on thenewer most recent bikes.

In fact, the NLAA and TheNational Locksmith are lookingfor a writer who knowsmotorcycles, semi-trucks,and/or antique autos. If you doeither or both, give me a callimmediately!

And now for the news.Technical Writers Tom Mazzone,Michael Hyde and myself arenow on America Online andready to converse with ourNLAA members about their“vehicular exploits andexperiences.” That's right, nowall NLAA members are invitedto contact any one or all three ofus, personally, at home, viaAOL. While we may not be ableto respond immediately, we willaccept your technical queries,code questions, etc. and answerthem as time permits.Addresses are as follows:

Tom Seroogy AOL-SABERTEC2Internet–[email protected]

Tom Mazzone AOL-SABERTECInternet–[email protected]

Michael Hyde AOL-LOCKPHDInternet–[email protected]

DIRECTOR’SPAGE

Tom Seroogy

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4 Summer 1995 National Locksmith Automobile Association

or the beginner, the Ford 5-Pin lock is probably one of

the easiest locks on which towork. This lock system startedin the late 1960s (approximately1967) and has enjoyed a longand successful employmentinto virtually every AmericanFord automobile until the mid-1980s, when their 10-Cutsystem was introduced.

All locks, except the glovebox, have remained pintumbler, using five spaces and adouble sided courtesy key. (Atrue double sided key has cutson each side of the key that areused in a lock. A courtesy key iscut the same on both sides, butonly one side of the key is usedin the lock.) With the Mustangas an exception, the Ignitionand Door Locks used the samekey, and the glove box and thetrunk used the same key untilabout 1980. After that time, theignition used the primary keyby itself, while the doors, glovebox and trunk were put ontothe secondary key. Whenpicking or servicing these units,the pin tumblers for the ignitioncome up from the bottom, whilethe rest of the locks have thetumblers coming down fromthe top. This is especially

i m p o r t a n twhen impres-sioning.

Code seriesand keys forthese locksare as follows:Primary - FA 0to 1863 usingthe Curtis H51or Ilco 1167FDk e y b l a n k .Secondary -FB 0 to 1863using the CurtisH50 or IlcoS1167FD keyblank. Bittingfor the FA andFB series codesare identicala n d o n l yi n d i c a t ewhether itapplies to thepr imary orsecondary keyfor that vehicle.G e n e r a l l y ,up until thelate 1970’s thes e c o n d a r yc o d e c o u l dbe found onthe glove boxlock casing.

National Locksmith Automobile Association Summer 1995 5

Beginning The Ford 5-PinHere's your first lesson in the standard Ford 5-Pin system,

used since the late 1960s.By Tom Seroogy

F

1. While in many Ford columns it is necessary totear down the column or remove the column shroudto gain access to the retaining pin, many trucks andvans allow easy access outside the column.

LOCK RETAINER

Primary codes were not foundon any lock on the vehicle.

Common service problems forthese locks include corrodedlock tumblers and compressedsprings in the door. Common tothe Ford 5 pin ignitions ishaving the buzzer activatorswitch break and fall inside thekeyway. The buzzer switch isattached to the side of the lock,located at the top of the keywayand contacts the key when thekey is inserted. After repeatedkey insertions, the contact areaof the switch wears, breaks andfalls into the lock's keyway.

When the owner inserts a key,the broken piece is pushed backand jammed into the lock. Thisprevents the key from fullyseating, thus preventing thelock from turning. If caughtearly enough, this piece canoften be extracted and the lockcontinued to be used, althoughthe buzzer activator is no longeroperable.

Up until about 1980 or 1981,the door panels had to beremoved in order to remove thehorseshoe clips that held thedoor lock in place. On laterversions of the car line, the doorclip was accessible from theoutside edge of the car door,making removal andreplacement a real dream.

The ignition lock is held intothe housing by a pin retainer. Todepress the pin, the lock mustbe in the ON position. Becausethe retainer is not springloaded, it will stay depresseduntil the ignition is turnedpassed the ON position or tothe OFF position.

Key Generation

The Ford 5-pin lock is fairly

simple to im-pression. Formost lock-smiths, this isprobably thefirst method toattempt.

If impres-sioning doesnot work, oris not yourstrong point,try these alter-nate methods:

For modelswhere the igni-tion and doorare on theprimary key,remove anddisassemblethe door lock.The secondarykey can bemade by pick-ing, removingand disassembl-ing the trunklock.

O n l a t e rmodel Fords,where onlythe ignitioni s o n t h eprimary key,the lock willhave to bep i c k e d f o rdisassemblyor drilled andreplaced.

If picking,remember thatthe tumblersare located atthe bottom ofthe keyway.Both tryoutkeys and rockerp icks have


2. Use a key or pick the lock to the ON position anddepress the retaining pin.

3. Pull the lock out of the column. You will noticethat this lock does not have the customary buzzerswitch attached to its top. While this occurs onsome trucks, in most instances it means that thelock has been previously removed.

NO BUZZERSWITCH

shown themselves effective forturning this lock.

Because care must be takenwhen drilling, we will coverignition removal without a keyin our next issue.

To produce a door key in latermodel Fords, either remove theglove box lock to retrieve threeof the five cuts, thenprogression or impression thetwo remaining cuts. Ifimpressioning, generally thetrunk lock yields better marks.

If a glove box is not availableor it is not feasible to work on,remove and disassemble thedoor lock.


4. Further inspection of the column reveals that someone has been herebefore. Seen is the sector gear that drives the ignition rack and switchrod. A cover plate and snap ring that prevent this piece from beingremoved is missing. Should this piece come out and the rack moved,it is necessary to re-time the gear and the rack.

5. The removed lock with the retaining button extended. Also visible isthe tumbler and spring cap.

TUMBLER ANDSPRING CAP

RETAINER

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Do you have an E-mail address?

Send it to us!

AOL: NATL LOCKInternet: [email protected]


espite having been aroundsince 1988, I constantly

receive requests for serviceprocedures on GM SquareColumn vehicles. These includethe 1988 to 1993 L and W bodyvehicles; Chevrolet Corisica,Lumina and Beretta,Oldsmobile Cutlass, PontiacGrand Prix, and Buick Regal. Ibelieve this is because, thatdespite the number of years thiscolumn has been out, very fewlocksmiths have had reason toservice it. Of course, this lack ofexposure and hands-onexperience continues to makethis column somewhat of aproblem.

Two styles of the Squarecolumn exist, tilt and non-tilt,and both have separate andvery distinct serviceprocedures. In this article wewill cover the non-tilt version,more commonly found on theChevrolet Corsica. (Seephotograph 1.)

Unlike the typical GMSaginaw Round style columns,the steering shaft lock plate hasbeen eliminated and thesteering shaft lock function isperformed deeper inside theupper bowl, beyond the

D

Standard Auto Service

1. The GM non-tiltSquare Columnfrom a ChevroletCorsica.

2. Looks can be deceiving. At this point it seems ignition lock removal is afew steps away. However, there’s more to this column than meets the eye.

GM's Non-Tilt Square ColumnLack of exposure and hands-on experience continues to make

this column a problem.By Tom Mazzone

locksmith’s normal area ofservice. Despite all the

differences, with someexperience, this column is

actually muchfaster and easierto service thanthe round stylecolumns.

To start, thesteering wheelmust be removedand is identicalto other GMsteering wheelr e m o v a l s :R e m o v eh o r n p a d ,remove shaftnut re ta in ingr i n g , r e m o v esteering shaftnut, index steer-ing shaft andsteering wheel,use a wheelpuller to removesteering wheel.

After the steer-ing wheel isremoved, thehorn tower/

canceling cam and turn signalswitch are immediately visible.(See photograph 2.) This is ratherdeceptive at this point. Allappearances indicate that wecan simply remove the turnsignal switch assembly andremove the ignition lock. Notso.

Before further disassemblycan continue, the upper shroudmust be removed. At firstglance, there is little to indicatehow this piece is held in place.Begin by removing the horntower/canceling cam. (Seephotograph 3.)

Then, using a T20 Torx driver,remove the upper shroud/turnsignal switch assemblymounting screw, found at theupper right hand portion of theturn signal switch assembly.(See photograph 4.) Now, ifyou’ve read this carefully, you’llnotice that this screw wasreferred to as the upper shroudmounting screw. Once thescrew is removed, visible is amounting tab used by the


3. Pull the horn tower/canceling cam of the steeringshaft and place in a safe place.

5. Remove the hazard switch button, the final obstacleto upper shroud removal.

4. Use a T20 Torx driver to remove the shroud/turnsignal assembly mounting screw. Placing the turnsignal switch to the right turn position, makes accessto this screw a little easier.

shroud to fasten and secure it tothe column. Outside of thesteering wheel and the hazardswitch, the screw is the onlypiece preventing the removal ofthe upper shroud.

To remove the final obstaclefor shroud removal, use a #1Phillips screw driver to removethe hazard switch button, foundon the lower, right hand side ofthe column. (See photograph 5.)With the button removed,gently pull up on the upper

shroud. While itmay seem thatthere are otherf a s t e n e r sholding this unitin place, it issimply just verysnug.

If necessary,use a smallstraight blade screw driver topry the piece up and loosen itfrom the rest of the column. Becareful to prevent marring the

shroud and column. Then liftthe shroud out and over thesteering shaft and slide it offover the turn signal lever. (See


6. Gently pry the upper shroud off and around thesteering shaft and turn signal lever.

8. Now the turn signal switch can be removed. Use aT20 Torx driver to remove the last two screws holdingit in place.

9. This is where I get most of my calls; The locksmithgets to this point, doesn’t see any way to access andremove the ignition retaining screw and then wonders- “Now what?!”

7. Remove the turn signal/dimmer switch lever byusing a T20 Torx driver to remove its mounting screw.

photograph 6.)

Now use the T20 Torx driverto remove the turn signal/headlight dimmer switch levermounting screw. (See photograph7.) The end of this lever is asmall ball that fits onto acorresponding socket a littledeeper inside the upperhousing. When replacing thispiece, make sure that the ballend is correctly positioned orthe light dimmer will notoperate.

At this point the turn signalswitch assembly can beremoved. Use the T20 Torxdriver to remove the final twoscrews holding this piece on thecolumn. (See photograph 8.)

It is usuallyhere that mostl o c k s m i t h sbegin to wane,and wonderwhat to donext. All that isseen is a largeblack cover.The only accessto the ignitionlock’s retainingscrew is fromt h e b o t t o maccess area usedby the turnsignal switcha s s e m b l ywiring harness. Even then, theonly thing that can be seen isthe buzzer activator switch. The

solution to this dilemma is toremove the upper housingcover. (See photograph 9.)

To remove the cover, the


12. Slide the cover off the column and let it rest,hanging on the turn signal switch assembly.

10. Compress the upper bearing spring using theStramer tool. Use a seal pick, screw driver or probeto pick up and remove the retaining ring.

11. Remove the three T30 Torx bolts that hold thecover on.

upper bearing preload springmust be removed first. (Do nottry to remove the bearing andrace at this time. They are a part

of the coverand will beremoved whenthe cover isr e m o v e d . )W h i l e o t h e rt o o l s a n dmethods maywork, I’ve foundthe Stramertool from KentMoore worksq u i t e w e l lwith a littlepatience andp r a c t i c e .Screw the toold o w n o v e rthe shaft tocompress thespring. Keepturning untilthe retainingring can beseen throughthe side accesshole of thetool. Then usea seal pick,small screwdriver or similartool to pickup on theretaining ring.(See photograph10.)

Wi t h t h eretaining ringout of its seat,s l o w l yunscrew theStramer tool,making surethat the retain-ing ring isfollowing thetool. If it is

not, use your probe to helpmove it up the shaft as the toolis unscrewed. Remove theretaining ring, spring and

Stramer tool from the shaft.

Next, remove the three T30Torx bolts that hold the coveron. (See photograph 11.) Gentlypull up on the cover, rocking alittle if necessary, to loosen itfrom the steering shaft. Oncefree, let the cover slide downand over the turn signal switchwire harness and hang from theturn signal switch assembly.(See photograph 12.)

There! We now have access tothe buzzer activator switch andignition lock retaining screw.Unlike the Standard RoundColumn, the buzzer activatorswitch in the Square Column isconnected to a wire loom thatgoes down into the column, andcannot be removed from thecolumn.

To remove the switch, gentlygrab with a hemostat or needlenose pliers and pull straightout. Grab the plastic portion ofthe switch and not the wiring!Make sure that a key or blank isnot in the ignition lock, as thiswill lock the buzzer switch inplace. Once removed, let ithang. (See photograph 13.)

Using a T20 Torx driver theignition lock retaining screwcan now be removed. (Seephotograph 14.) And the ignitionremoved. (See photograph 15.)Reverse procedure toreassemble.


13. The buzzer activator switch is much different thanthe typical GM switch and great care must be taken inits removal.

14. Remove the ignition lock retaining screw and ...

15. Your done!

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BUZZER SWITCH


his issue of the NLAA westart a series of Mercedes-

Benz articles that will be anoverview of the Mercedeslocking systems that you mayrun across at one time oranother. Mercedes dealers willusually describe the cars bychassis numbers instead of theexact model. Later in the serieswe will give you a chart to helpyou determine the model youhave by the chassis number andlocking system it should beusing. Because of variations inMercedes locking systems it canbe difficult at times to be exacton every model and chassis.

MERCEDES 201 CHASSIS

One of the terms Mercedesdealers use is "workshopedition." This means that thelock is not coded to theparticular car your working on,but to a randomly coded key.

We start out with theMercedes model 190E, Chassis201.

Chassis 201 Ignition Locks

This Mercedes uses twodifferent types of ignitions,depending on the year of thecar. The one pictured inphotograph one is for a 1990 to1993 model. It uses a Two-TrackHigh Security Keyway. If the

car has a factory alarm the keywill have 13 cuts on each track.If it does not, the key will have10 cuts on it. Either way the

ignition will accept both typesof keys, since the ignition hascuts 1 through 10 in it.

To remove the key cylinder

High SecurityAuto Service

1. Ignition typical of the 1990 to 1993 201 Chassis Mercedes.

T

Mercedes Overview: Chassis 201 and 202Michael Hyde begins our journey into the world of Mercedes.

By Michael Hyde

MERCEDES CHASSIS 201

Key Blanks: Alarm Version - Silca HU55P, Ilco S34YSPNon-Alarm Version - Silca HU41P, Ilco S59HFP

MACS: 2

Tumbler Positions For Alarm VersionX X X X X X X X X X Ignition, Trunk

X X X X X X X X X X X X Doors1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 Spacing (Bow To Tip)

Tumbler Positions For NonAlarm VersionX X X X X X X X X X Ignition, Doors, Trunk1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Spacing (Bow To Tip)

from the ignition housing youmust have a working key. Insertthe working key and rotate it tothe first position or theACCESSORY position. Insert adouble ended wire through the

face of the lock and down intothe housing where it willdepress the cylinder retainerspring and the locking lugs inthe housing.(See photograph 2.) Itmay be necessary to wiggle it

around a little to make sure itfully engages the locking lugs.It will also help to file the tips ofthe wire inward to betterengage the locking lugs. Pulloutward on the key, the


2. Inserting the wire for removing the bezel andignition cylinder.

4. The older ignition housing is on the right. The newerversion on the left has been beefed up to increase itssecurity.

5. There is also a difference in the bezels. Thenewer one is on the left.

6. The hardened face cap is held to the plug by a roll pin.Instead of trying to remove the pin and plug, simply placea workshop cylinder in the vehicle and order the keyedversion from the dealer.

7. If the face cap is removed, the plug comes outfrom the back of the cylinder.

3. The ignition cylinder removed from the housing.

cylinder and steel bezel shouldrelease. (See photograph 3.)

In photograph four the 1984to 1989 version of the ignitionhousing is pictured on the right,next to the newer version, onthe left. You can see that thenewer version has been beefedup with more metal to enhanceits anti-theft capabilities. Thereis also a difference in the steelbezels that secure the cylinders.(See photograph 5.)

The ignition cylinder face capsecures the plug into thehousing. There is a tension pinthat goes through the face cap

and into the plug. It is almostimpossible to remove thetension pin from the face cap.The problem is that when youtry and take it apart, the plugwill usually shear. The plug ismade of pot metal and the facecap is made of hardened steel.Something has to give way. It isbest to use a workshop editionto temporally replace thecylinder and replace theworkshop edition with a codedone for the car, from the dealer.Standard turn around time istwo weeks. (See photograph 6.)

With the face cap removed,the plug comes out the rear of

the cylinder as seen inphotograph seven.

The plug contains 10tumblers, in positions 1 through10. (See photograph 8.) Thecylinder also has a key buzzerlever , that when the key isinserted, the lever will rotateslightly to activate the buzzer.(See photograph 9.)

Chassis 201 Door Locks

The door locks are secured tothe car by a 4mm Allen head setscrew on the edge of the door.To remove the lock from the car,first remove the set screw and,if equipped, disconnect the


8. The ignition contains tumblers for positions 1through 10.

9. The lever on the left is the buzzer switch lever.When the key is inserted into the lock, the leverrotates slightly, activating the buzzer.

11. Separate the front from the back portion of the lock.Remember to insert a key to keep the wafer tumblers from flyingout of the plug.

10. The alarm version door lock. Knock outthe two roll pins to begin disassembly.

alarm contactsfound behind alarge plastic capright above theset screw.

To remove thecylinder, insertthe working keyand rotate thekey and gentlyr e m o v e t h ec y l i n d e r. T h i swill take a littlepulling, back andforth as thecylinder is heldtightly in placewith the handlea s s e m b l y .Remember totake your timeand be gentlewith the removal of thecylinder. The tailpiece of thedoor cylinder has a wing tip onit that fits into a plastic cam thatworks with the latchingassembly. Because of theopening in the cam, the wingtip of the tailpiece is interlockedinto the cam. That is why it isnecessary to rotate the cylinderwith the key in order to removethe door cylinder.

There are two types of doorlocks. One with alarm and onewithout. The first is the alarm

type. (See photograph 10.) Todisassemble it you will need toremove the two large tensionpins. Use a pin punch to knockthem through. Separate theforward section of the housingfrom the rear section. Insert theworking key and rotate the pluguntil it lines up with the wardin housing, allowing the plug toslide out the front.

If you do not have a workingkey, then you will need a keywith 13 cuts on it and all thecuts made to be number 5

depths. Use Silca key blanknumber HU55P for or IlcoS34YS. Insert the prepped key.Separate the forward section ofthe housing from the rearsection. (See photograph 11.)

While the prepped key is inthe lock, you will need to bringthe rest of the wafers to theshear line in order to rotate theplug to line up with the ward inthe housing, to allow the plugto slide out the front of the lock.I use lock pick tension tools toslide down the tumbler


12. In order to remove the plug from the shell, the plug must be turned. To do this without aworking key, shim the lock from the back.

13. The alarm model door lock contains tumblers inpositions 2 through 13. 14. The door locks to the non-alarmed model.

chambers and depress thetumblers to the shear line. Thereis a technique to doing this. Itwill take patience and practiceto become efficient. (Seephotograph 12.)

The alarm model door plugcontains 12 tumblers, inpositions 2 through 13. (See

photograph 13.)

The other door lock is thenon-alarm model, as seen inphotograph 14.

Remove the tension pin in thetailpiece by knocking it out witha pin punch. Remove thetailpiece and don't forget tomark the piece, for re-assembly

purposes. There is also a smallrubber piece that sits on the endof the tailpiece. (See photograph15.)

Insert a working key androtate the plug until it lines upwith the ward in the housingand then slide the plug out. Thedoor cylinder plug contains all10 tumblers for a complete keyon a non-alarm chassis 201. (Seephotograph 16.)

If you do not have a workingkey, the only way to get theplug out is to mill or Dremel anarea on each side of the cylinderhousing, where the tumblerchambers are, so as tomanipulate the tumblers to theshear line. I do not recommendthis as there is no way torestore the cylinder to itsoriginal condition. The cylindercan be purchased from AutoSecurity Products, Part # D-21-104 (left side), and D-21-103(right side). Average sellingprice is $39.95. The cylinderdisassembled is shown inphotograph 17.

Chassis 201 Trunk Lock

The trunk lock is secured tothe car by two 8mm bolts.Mercedes uses two differenttypes of trunk locks on thischassis. This chassis trunk lockis a combination of the lockcylinder and the latch all in oneunit. The only difference is inthe way the tailpiece connectsto the lock unit. The first one,the tailpiece is attach by a screwdirectly into the cam on theback of the lock. The secondone, the metal part of thetailpiece end is widened so itcannot be removed withoutbreaking the cam on the lock.You need to remove it at thecam or disconnect the tailpiece


17. The disassembled non-alarm door lock.

15. Aftermarking all theparts forposition, knockout the roll pinthat holds thetailpiece to theplug.

16. The doorlock plug of thenon-alarmedmodel containsall 10 cuts forthe key.

where it connects with the car'svacuum locking system. (Seephotograph 18.)

To disassemble the lockcylinder from the latch part of

the unit, remove the 'E' clip onthe back of the lock and removethe cam unit. Be sure to mark allthe pieces for re-assemblypurposes. Next, unsnap the

front trim piece that encirclesthe front of the cylinder. Theunit is under spring pressure, sobe careful. (See photograph 19.)

Now that you have removed


18. The trunk lock on this chassis serves as both lock and latch. Here you can see both sides of our lock.

19. After removing the snap ring, carefully pull off the front trim piece of the lock. It is spring loaded, careful!

UNSNAP

20. Insert a working key and turn the plug toremove. Be careful as a detent ball bearing andspring are armed and dangerous.

21. The trunk lock contains tumblers in positions 1through 10 for both the alarmed and non-alarmed model.

BALL BEARING

the cylinder, insert a workingkey and rotate the plug toremove it. Watch out for thedetent ball bearing and springthat could fly out of thecylinder. (See photograph 20.)

The trunk cylinder plugcontains 10 tumblers inpositions 1 through 10, whetherthe car is equipped with afactory alarm or not. (Seephotograph 21.)

The lock completelydisassembled is pictured inphotograph 22. The lock cannotbe taken apart without aworking key, because of theward in the lock cylinderhousing.

The tumbler kit for this car isASP #A-21-102.

CHASSIS 202 –NEW MERCEDES C-CLASS,1994 AND UP

The car uses a Two-TrackHigh Security 10 Cut Key.

Chassis 202 Ignition Lock

This is a whole new lockingsystem for Mercedes. Itincorporates new features neverused before. The ignitioncylinder does not have asecondary housing, meaningthat the cylinder plug goesdirectly into the ignition lock


MERCEDES CHASSIS 202

Key Blank: Silca HU64P

MACS: 2

Tumbler PositionsX X X X X X X X X X Ignition, Doors, Trunk1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Spacing (Bow To Tip)

22. The totally disassembled trunk lock. 23. The new Mercedes C-Class, 202 Chassis with acompletely revamped ignition design.

24. Use a working key to turn the plug to ACCESSORY,turn the bezel counter-clockwise 90 degrees and pullthe lock out.

25. The detent in the housing can be seen here.

housing itself. The ignition lockassembly is pictured inphotograph 23. To remove thecylinder, insert the working keyand rotate the plug to the firstposition (or ACCESSORYposition) and then rotate theblack steel bezel counter-clockwise about 90 degreesuntil it slides out of its detent.Gently pull outward on the keyand the cylinder plug alongwith the steel bezel will slide offthe ignition housing unit. (Seephotograph 24.)

Photograph 25 shows thedetent in the housing. Thecylinder plug contains 10tumblers. These tumblers are anew type and are different thanthe tumblers in the doors andtrunk. The tumblers have anotch in them to lock them intothe plug, because there is nosecondary housing for them.The plug and tumblers arepictured in photograph 26. Thetumbler kits are not currentlyavailable.

Chassis 202 Door Lock

The door cylinder does nothave an alarm switch on itbecause the alarm function isnow controlled through thelatch assembly. It is secured tothe car door by utilizing a 4mm

Allen head bolt through theweather-stripping cavity on theedge of the door to the lockhousing itself. (See photograph27.)

To remove the cylinder plugfrom the housing, remove thetension pin that secures thetailpiece and then insert theworking key and rotate it untilthe plug slides out. (Seephotograph 28.) The doorcylinder plug contains all tentumblers needed for a completekey. (See photograph 29.)

If you do not have a working

key, the only way to get theplug out is to mill or Dremel anarea on each side of the cylinderhousing, where the tumblerchambers are, so as tomanipulate the tumblers to theshear line. I do not recommendthis as there is no way to restorethe cylinder to its originalcondition. The cylinder can bepurchased only from the dealer,average cost is $45. The tumblerkits are not currently available.

Chassis 202 Trunk Lock

The trunk lock housingcontains the key cylinder, alarm


26. Theignition plugcontains 10new styletumblers.

27. The new lock is secured to the car door by a4mm Allen head bolt that is accessed through theweather-strip cavity.

28. To remove the plug, start by removing the roll pin thatholds the tailpiece to the plug.

micro-switches and the vacuumlocking systems switches. Theassembly is pictured inphotograph 30. Before you start,remember you to mark all thepieces you take apart for re-assembly purposes.

To remove the key cylinderplug, remove the E-clip on theback of the lock. Next removethe two plastic cam pieces.Remove the keeper ring thatholds the metal cam assemblyin place. Remove the metal camassembly. (See photograph 31.)Insert the working key androtate until the cylinder plugslides out the front of the unit.(See photograph 32.)

The trunk plug also containsall ten tumblers. The sametumblers used in the doors are

used in the trunk cylinder. Thelock cannot be taken apartwithout a working key, because

of the ward in the lock cylinderhousing. The tumbler kits arenot currently available.


29. The door lock containsall 10 tumblers needed for acomplete key.

31. Plug removal starts with the back of the lock andremoval of the snap ring.

32. Turn the key and the plug will come out.

30. The trunk lock of the 202 Chassis.


ince the arrival of our firstforeign vehicle, locksmiths

have been plagued with tryingto remove the shearhead bolt.Designed as a security feature,the shearhead bolt is just that, abolt whose head shears orbreaks off at a specified torque.Without a head to turn the bolt,would-be thieves cannot easilyremove and bypass the ignitionlock. Of course, this also meansthat the locksmith andmechanic cannot easily removeand service the lock either. So,following, we will spend a littletime discussing some of themethods used to remove thesebolts. (See photograph 1.)

Before proceeding, it shouldbe stated that in many cases, thebolts are very hard to get to,often lying just beneath theinstrument panel. It should beaccepted that in these cases thecolumn will have to be droppedto gain access to the bolts.

Method 1 - Tap And Reverse

Probably the fastest and mostcommonly used method istapping and reversing the boltout using a scratch awl orpunch. This is especiallyeffective on bolts that are notcountersunk or shielded deeply

within the top clamp. (Seephotograph 2.)

To remove the bolts, take a

scratch awl or pointed punchand tap a deep index mark asclose to the outside edge of the

1. Theshearheadbolt is usedto makevehicle theftby ignitionremoval alittletougher.Here is ashot of twobolts beforeand aftershearing.

2. Using ascratch awlto tap andreverse thebolt out.

S

Those Shameless Shearhead BoltsDesigned for security, these little guys can pose

the locksmith some real problems.By Tom Seroogy

bolt head as possible. Thiscreates a good seat for thepunch, allowing it toadequately grab the bolt forturning.

With the bolt marked, placethe tip of the punch in the indexmark and lean it back as far aspossible, in a line not quitetangent to the circumference ofthe bolt head. Gently start to tapin the direction the boltunscrews. Make sure thedirection of the punch followsthe index mark as the bolt turns.

If the index mark rotates to aposition where a good strikingangle is not possible, makeanother index mark on the headof the bolt and continue strikingand turning the bolt from there.When the bolt is loose enough,simply placing the punch tip inan index mark and turning willremove the bolt. Remove theother bolt(s) using the samemethod.

In some instances you willfind that one bolt removes quiteeasily, while the other(s) won'tbudge. To help remove it, trytightening all other screws first.This will alleviate any excesspressure on the stubborn boltand make removal a bit easier.

Method 2 - Slot And Reverse

This method only works wellon those bolts that are notguarded deep inside the upperclamp, or hidden by other partsof the column. In other words, itworks well on exposed bolts.

The first part of removing thebolt requires either a Dremeltool with cutting blade (thepreferred tool) or a hacksawblade. Use the tool to cut a slotacross the top of the bolt, wideenough to accept a straight

blade screw driver.

Then use a largescrew driver to remove.

Method 3 -Easy Outs

Commonly calledEasy Outs or ReverseOuts, these tools aresimilar to reverse fluteddrill bits. To use, simpledrill a hole down thecenter of the bolt beingextracted, per the sizeof the Easy Out beingused. Once the hole isdrilled, screw the toolinto the hole, applyingconstant, steady turningpressure. The reversethreading of the toolwill bite into the boltuntil the bolt eventuallybreaks free. Great caremust be taken not to over exertthe tool or to turn it quickly orsharply. This will cause the toolto snap off in the bolt, makingremoval even harder. (Seephotograph 3.)

A variation of this method isas follows: Once the hole isdrilled into the bolt, pound aTorx driver or other style driverbit down into the hole. Thenunscrew the bolt. While thismethod is not recommended(use the right tool for the rightjob, fellas) it often works in apinch.

Method 4 - Drill

In most cases, drilling the boltheads off is the manufacturersmethod for removing thesetypes of ignitions.

To drill, choose a bit that islarger in diameter than the bolt.Center and drill straight downon top of the head of the boltuntil it is free from the rest of

the bolt. Repeat for the rest ofthe bolts.

To make this drilling easier, Irecommend using the BulletPoint bits by Black & Decker.The small pilot point keeps thedrill centered and avoidsslipping off of the head of thebolt. The larger, flat cutting areahelps cut the head away fromthe rest of the bolt withoutdamaging the upper clamp.

Once the lock has beenremoved, the rest of the bolt canbe removed from the lock bodyusing a pliers or vice grip.

Bolt Replacement

In all instances except drilling,save the bolts for reinstallation.To reinstall, use a Dremel toolwith cutter or a hacksaw to cuta slot in the top of the bolt. Usea large straight blade screwdriver to replace the bolts.


3. Using Easy Outs to reverse the bolt out.

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hus far, in our pursuit forthe gold, we’ve identified

the Dealer as our quarry. As thehunter, we’ve discussed thenature and environment of ourprey: How they operate, whataspects of their business makesthem vulnerable to our pursuit,etc. But before we head out onthe hunt, let’s talk weapons andammunition. Needless to say itwould be foolish for any hunterto chase down big gamewithout having the equipmentor tools (or weapon, as it maybe) necessary to take home thetrophy. Again, we want theirhead on our wall. If we aren’tprepared we may become thetrophy.

In general, there are threepieces of weaponry that aregoing to help us bag our game:Price, expediency and buildingrelationships. In this issue we’llcover pricing.

As we found earlier, theDealer world is very “deal”conscious. Yet your pricing isgoing to have to reflect morethan just the cost of makingkeys for cars.

While there are those that willargue, my dealers were on atotally different price structure

than standard or retail work.The difference in pricing wasjustified by the volume. In anygiven month I knewapproximately how manydealer calls I would receive.Based on this quantity, the localcompetition, and my cost fordoing dealer business, Iestablished a fair “dealerdiscount” that was offered to alldealers, big and small. Granted,some dealers used mefrequently, and others not sofrequently. However, thepricing was based onamortizing the cost of all thedealer work I performed.

The lower price, of course,helped me land more dealeraccounts. The more dealeraccounts I had, the easier it wasto justify lower the price.

When establishing a price,included must be provisions forthe “free” work that’s doneonce in a while: i.e. caropenings while you’re on thelot, duplicating a few keys, etc.How much free work you canoffer is going to be dependenton your business, but it doesneed to be factored in. It’s justsimply a matter of how (or if)you can justify the cost.

For example, the “free” work Ioffered was recouped throughone of two ways - volume callsby that dealer (five or more carsper month), or, simply, a highercost on ancillary services that Iprovided.

One of the major misconcep-tions that locksmiths have whendetermining price is that ofcompetency-versus-price. Wetend to view competency andprice as a direct relationship -the higher the competency, thehigher the price I warrant; thelower the competency, thelower the price. Many use thisas an excuse for not loweringtheir price when competitionsolicits their customers.

Unfortunately, working onthis basis is self defeating. Thelogical conclusion in this type ofreasoning is that the competentwill price themselves right outof work.

I believe that competencyshould actually hold an inverserelationship to price. The higherthe competence, the lower thecost; and, the lower thecompetency, the higher the cost.Here’s the reasoning.

(See page 26)

T

Weapons And Ammo - Part 1We've identified the beast, we know its habits and environment,

now we need weapons and ammo!By Tom Seroogy


QUESTION:Where are the codes on a

1993 Ford Tracer? How doyou make keys for it?

Travis Alford,Weatherford Locksmith

Service,Texas, #0769.

ANSWER:Sorry to say, Travis, that

the 1993 Ford Tracer doesnot have codes placedanywhere on the vehicle.Identical to the 1993Escort, this car uses avariation of the Ford 10-Cutsystem. None of the lockshave tumblers in the firstthree spaces or cuts of thekey (bow to tip). From thedoor and/or trunk lock youcan retrieve cuts 4 through8. The ignition uses cuts 5through 10. After cutting akey to fit the door,progression cuts 9 and 10in the ignition.

QUESTION:While not a common

vehicle, I received twoseparate calls forinformation on the MaseratiBiTurbo. (Probably twodifferent shops bidding onthe same car?!) At thispoint, information is hardto come by, so I'll let youhave what I've got.

ANSWER:The latest production

date that I show for thisvehicle is around 1990.The ignition uses the X157key blank and RO1001 to

2000 series codes.Contradictory informationon ignition code locationexists, one source states thecode is not stamped orlocated anywhere, anothersource states the code islocated on or around theignition lock.

The ignition lock haswafer tumblers and isidentical to that which isused by the Rover duringthe early and mid-1980s.

The rather uniquestructure of this lockrequires that the wholeassembly be removed fromthe bottom of the lockhousing. Four staked areasat the bottom of thehousing, hold the lockcontents in place. Once thestaked areas have beenremoved, the componentscan be lowered for service.

The door and trunk lockuse the X64, X78, and X79key blank; and code series1100 to 1759, 3100 to3759 and 5100 to 5759.

The recommendedmethod for key generationis impressioning.

If any of our NLAAmembers have more ordifferent information tooffer on this vehicle, pleasesend it in. A relativelythorough coverage of theignition lock disassemblycan be found in the LynnHawkins "European AutoLock Service Manual,"available through The

National Locksmith.

QUESTION:Another unusual car that

more than one member hadquestions on is proceduresfor removing the ignitionon 85 Merkur XR4Ti.

ANSWER:Much easier than the

BiTurbo mentioned above,the ignition lock on theXR4Ti is very similar to theolder Capri ignitions andthe newer Ford Contourignition.

Because this vehicle is aone key car using the FC7,X86 key blank and TX1 to1859 codes, a key can bemade for the whole carthrough the door lock. Inthe case of one member,however, the ignition hadapparently been replacedand used a separate key. Ifthis is the case, try thefollowing:

The most expedientmethod for making a key tothis ignition is throughimpressioning.

If that does not work thecylinder may have to beremoved. There are tworetaining methods on thislock cylinder: A spring steelretainer, similar to the VWlock, and a large snap ringon the back of the plug thatis keyed into the lockhousing. Pick the lock tothe ON or RUN position anddepress the spring retainer.The snap ring should be

lined up with a broaching,allowing lock removal.

If picking doesn't work,then drilling is the onlyother alternative.

From our NLAACovert Operations Teamwe have these reports:

• The 1996 Ford Tauruswill be using a newelectronic key system.Initial reports on this systemhave called it PATS (PassiveAnti-Theft System), and hasbeen in testing in the U.K.on the Ford Europe vehiclesfor several years now.

The system is anintegration of highlysophisticated electronicencoding and RFtechnology, developed byTexas Instruments (youknow, the calculatorpeople), and a standardmechanical lock. We'llreveal a little more on thistechnology and itsapplication on the Taurusas more is available.

• Keeping up with Ford isGM. Many of you mayhave seen the newVTD/Passlock systemarticle in the June 1995issue of The NationalLocksmith. This system isbeing introduced on the1996 Cavalier Z24 andSunfire GT. Simpler thanthe previous VATS system,the new lock will integratea magnet as part of the plugand a Hall-Affect sensor as


part of the shell or housing.When turned, theinstrument cluster (SmartCluster) looks for a properresistance value, "signature"and timing to determine ifthe correct key is beingused. If incorrect the fuelinjection system is shutdown, and the vehicle isnot allowed to start. Initialrelease of this unit shows itshould have only minoreffects on the locksmith'sability to generate keys orreplace ignition locks.We'll give the close and upfront encounter as soon asthese cars are released!

• A common problem onthe GM Saginaw Roundand Tilt style columns is

broken and/or missing turnsignal switch return springs.These springs help theswitch return to the neutralor off position once a turnhas been complete. And,unfortunately, after tearinga column down, we oftenfind that one or both ofthese springs is broken ormissing.

Generally, customersalready realize that aproblem exists with the turnsignal not returning.However, there are a fewwho insist that it was yourfault that the turn signaldoes not now turn off aftera turn.

Well, we have the fix foryou. Having been available

for years, these little springscan be purchased frommany GM dealer partscounters! Unfortunately,because even many dealersdon't know they areavailable, you may have toconvince the parts guy thatthey really do exist. Hereare the numbers: Left -#1964785, Right -#1964784.

• Finally, a bulletin to allIsuzu dealers informs us ofthe following theft problem.The new $35,000 IsuzuMontero truck comes witha full set of tumblers in allthe locks, including the gascover lock. Apparently thisis well known to auto theftrings who make their

rounds on dealer lots,exchange the working gascover lock with areplacement, and take theoriginal lock to a locksmithto have keys made for thevehicle. Needless to say thetruck is long gone beforethe dealer has suspectedanything.

As a note: The dealeroffering us this informationtoured his lot right after hereceived the bulletin andfound three of his Monteroswith changed locks.

Any locksmith experienc-ing such activity should tryand verify identificationand vehicle ownership. Ifsuspect, call the police!

Pricing should reflect yourestablished hourly rate plusparts. (The hourly rate shouldbe a reflection of what it costs todo business, including non-chargeable time, plus yourdesired profit.) Locksmiths withstore locations and employeeswill typically have a higherhourly rate to cover the overheadthat they have established. One-man operations operating fromthe home typically have loweroverhead and can offer a lowerhourly rate.

Competency pays off in twoways. First, the competent cangenerally “produce” more thanthe less competent. Forexample, I was able to offerdealer pricing based on the timeit took me to do the average car.This average included allvehicles, from GMs, to Fords, to

Mazdas, to etc. The averagetime for me to generate keys fora car was 20 minutes (longer forsome, shorter for others), orroughly three cars per hour. Ifmy hourly rate is $30, theaverage cost per car is only $10.

Now, a less competentlocksmith will not be able togenerate keys for cars at thatrate. Even at 1-1/2 cars perhour and an hourly rate of $30,each car will cost that locksmithapproximately $20. In fact, inorder to meet a $10 per vehiclecost, the less competentlocksmith must drop his perhour rate by half, to $15.

The second way competencypays off is by the type of work alocksmith can handle. The moretypes of cars, locking andkeying systems a locksmithknows, the more he can offerhis dealer! Remember, a dealerdoes not have time to bebothered with finding somebody

new every time he needsservice for a vehicle. If hiscurrent locksmith cannot handlethe newer or high security locksystems, he’ll more than likelygo with one that can.

In fact, after starting highsecurity auto work (work thatlocksmiths in my area could notoffer), my dealer accountsjumped by 10 percent in thefirst year. This translated into anadditional 25 percent in thatyear’s dealer income.

I guess if I had to explain thecorrect relationship betweencompetency and what to chargethe customer, it should be this:Your customer should pay forthe service your render.Competency will pay you forhow well you render thatservice.

Next time we’ll cover theother two pieces of weaponry -expedience and relationships!

Dealing With Dealers(From page 24)

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orce tools. Most locksmithshate the words, hate the

concept. However, in as muchas I don't like the idea ofbreaking or forcing a lock,neither do I like spending moretime on a job than it's worth. So,in this portion of Nuts & Boltswe'll take a closer look at someof the bypass and force toolsavailable.

Now I like to make adistinction between bypasstools and force tools. Bypasstools, typically drills, eliminateor remove the lockingmechanism in a controlledmanner. Force tools, on theother hand, crush, shear orotherwise destroy the lockingmechanism, and are harder tocontrol.

Before we cover the tools,however, let's first consider thelocks we may want to use themon. In recent history, a greatmany tools have been made forforce turning or removing theGM column lock. Whileextracting a GM lock was usefuland helpful for the locksmith,force turning the lock to startthe car is pretty much useless.Today, after the introduction ofthe bolt retained GM lock, even

extraction to a greater degreehas been eliminated.

While tools to both force turnand extract GM ignitions arestill made, they are typicallymade for the benefit of therepossessor and not thelocksmith. Therefore, we willcover those tools that willfurther or speed up the work alocksmith needs to accomplish.Take the Ford ignition lock, forexample. Force turning and/orextraction can be beneficial

because a new lock can beeasily replaced. Therefore, wewill cover tools that allow us toaccomplish either of these tasks.

We will cover bypass toolsfirst. Amazingly enough, all thebypass tools I have are made forthe Ford ignition, so, let's take alook.

Among the players are HPC'sITF-14 Ford 10-Cut drill guide,Aable Locksmiths' Drill BlockFord 10-Cut drill guide, Lock

1. The HPC ITF-14 drill guide for the Ford 10-Cut ignition.

F

Those Amazing Force ToolsWhile we hate the idea,

sometimes force is the best way to accomplish a job.By Tom Seroogy

Technology's #76 Ford 10-Cutdrill guide and AableLocksmiths' Ford Disc-Out Kit.

To set up HPC's guide, takean existing key and place it inthe guide, making sure that theset screw is tight. (See photograph1.) As there is no need toremove the facecap, simplyplace the key and guide into the

ignition. Then, using a 1/4"drill, drill out the sidebar of thelock. The guide has a hardenedsteel bushing to protect itselffrom the drill bit.

With the sidebar removed,turn the ignition, depress theretaining button and removethe lock.

Aable's Drill Block is similar

in approach except that theguide has its own key, does notinclude a hardened steelbushing and requires theremoval of the lock's facecapbefore using the tool. (Seephotograph 2.)

The drill guide by LockTechnology operates on boththe standard winged 10-CutFord ignitions, as well as thedomed or round facecapignitions found on the Taurusand Sable. (See photograph 3.)Also, roll pins instead of keyblanks are used to align the toolon the face of the lock. Theguide does not have a hardenedbushing.

Like the other units, attach thetemplate, drill the sidebar andremove the lock.

Aable's Disc-Out is forremoval of the Ford 5-Cut pintumbler ignition. (See photograph4.) Most locksmiths familiarwith this ignition know that theshearline is protected by ahardened disc. The Disc-Outallows you to remove the discand then shim the lock from the


2. Aable Locksmiths' Drill Block template for the Ford10-Cut ignition.

3. This guide by Lock Technologies is made for boththe winged and round facecap used by the Ford 10-Cut.

4. Aable Locksmiths' Disc-Out for removing the Ford 5-Pin ignition.

front. After shimming, turn thelock, depress the retainingbutton and remove the lock.

Now let's look at the forcetools. In our lineup we haveAable's The Persuader andQuick-On, A-1 Security Mfg.'s#GP1 G-Pull, Lock Technology's#350A lock extractor kit and #78Ford Sure-Shot.

Because they attack the sameproblem and the same lock, let'slook at Aable's The Persuaderand A-1's G-Pull first. Both ofthese tools are used to open thetrunk of GM that isexperiencing trouble with apopped retainer. As such, weknow that the lock is alreadyinoperable, and that forcedentry, provided it does not harmthe veh ic le or lock ingcomponents, is feasible.

Aable's The Persuader is aforce tool designed to shear thepopped tumbler cap and/or thesidebar of the GM trunk lock.(See photograph 5.) Afterremoving the facecap and dustcover, insert a correct key withthe bow removed into the lock,

place The Persuader over thekey blade and seat on the lockplug. Use a wrench to turn thelock until the trunk opens.Replace the lock.

Unlike The Persuader, the G-Pull is an extractor. (Seephotograph 6.) After removingthe facecap and dust cover,screw the G-Pull into the lock

plug. Seat the unit over the lockand turn the large wing nut toextract the plug. Once removed,use a screw driver to open thetrunk and replace the lock.

The rest of the tools are used,yes, again, on the Ford.

With slightly differentdesigns, Aable's Quick-On andLock Technology's Sure-Shot are


6. The G-Pull by A-1 actually extracts the plug of theGM trunk lock.

7. Aable's Quick-On (left) and Lock Technology's Sure-Shot.

5. Aable's The Persuader allows the locksmith to forceturn the GM trunk lock.

used to force turn the Ford 10-Cut ignition. To use, simplyremove the lock's facecap. Thensquarely and firmly poundeither tool over the face of thelock. If using Aable's Quick-On,make sure that the two turningtabs have pierced the face of thelock. Once properly seated, usea 1/2" drive ratchet to turn theignition. (See photograph 7.)

Much caution should be takenwhen using this tool. In fact, itis recommended that thebattery be disconnected beforeuse. Because the sidebar isbeing sheared or forced backinto the center of the plug, it isvery hard to turn back towardsthe OFF position. Should itbecome stuck in the STARTposition, the starter can becomedamaged.

Lock Technology's #350extractor is actually built toextract a number of differentignitions and locks. (Seephotograph 8.) The one I findmost useful is for the Ford 5-Cut. To use, remove the wingsfrom the face of the lock.Remove the detent pins fromthe lock and attach the #350's

Ford ignition plate using thesheet metal screws. Attach therest of the extractor and use awrench to remove the lock.Replace with a new lock.

The #350 can also be used forfast removal of foreignignitions. Simply extract theplug of the lock and thendepress the lock retainingbutton on the shell to removeand replace the lock.

For the HPC ITF-14 contact anHPC d i s t r i bu to r o r c a l l(708) 671-6280.

For Aab l e Lock smi ths c a l l(718) 847-1377.

For A-1 Security Mfg. contactan A-1 distributor or call(804) 747-0095.

For Lock Techno l ogy, c a l l(800) 421-7241, or inside Illinois(708) 369-6060.


8. Lock Technology's #350 extractor works well on the Ford 5-Pin ignitionas well as many foreign ignition locks.

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Ignition

To remove the ignition, youdo not have to remove thesteering wheel or airbag.(Seephotograph 3.)

It is necessary, however, tofirst disconnect the battery.Next remove the three T15 Torxscrews that hold the columnplastic clam shell shroudtogether, then unsnap theshroud halves and remove. Toremove the ignition cylinder onthis car you will have to removethe ignition/electrical switchassembly as one unit. Thereason you have to remove bothis because of Chrysler's newanti-theft security plate.Chrysler has replaced the active

1995 Chrysler LeBaron (Continued from Front Cover)

FEATURE ARTICLE

2. Opening is a snap. Simply grab the exposed vertical linkage and you’re in.

3. It is unnecessary to remove the airbag to work on this ignition. 4. It is necessary to remove this securityplate in order to remove the ignition. Itis held in place by these three securityTorx screws.

tension pin with a security Torxand steel plate. To remove theassembly you will have toremove the three T15 securityTorx screws that hold it to thecolumn. (See photograph 4.) Thedifference between a securityTorx and a regular Torx is thaton a security Torx there is a postin the middle of the head of thescrew, preventing a regular Torxdriver from entering. (Seephotograph 5.) (NOTE: Do nothave the working key in theignition cylinder until it hasbeen completely removed fromthe car.)

After you remove the screwsthe security plate will fall awayfrom the column. (Seephotograph 6.) Next unplug thewiring connectors to remove theassembly from the car. (Seephotograph 7.)

Once the unit is removedfrom the car, remove the blacksecurity Torx screw that securesthe cylinder to the electricalswitch unit. (See photograph 8.)Insert the working key whilemaintaining slight pullingpressure, rotate the cylinder


5. The security Torxincludes a post atthe center of thescrew head.

6. After removingthe screws, thesecurity plate willfall out of place.

7. Unplugtheelectricalconnectorsto removethe unitfrom thecar.

8. Now remove the security Torx that holds the ignition cylinder.

plug to the ON position andthen rotate it back to the OFFposition. Remove the key andthe cylinder should slide rightout, behind the key. (Seephotograph 9.)

The ignition lock cylinder ispictured in photograph 10. It ismuch easier to use a new lockservice package instead ofrekeying the original ignitionlock. The factory lock has atailpiece that is pressed on, andis difficult to service properly.The service package is Strattec#702788 and costs about $12.(See photograph 11.)

The ignition cylinder plugcontains all seven tumblersused in the car. (See photograph12.)

There is a small metal buzzerpart that must go in the rearsection of the plug. It issomewhat difficult to figurewhich position it goes in. Makesure you insert the part so theslope on the top of it pointstoward the rear of the plug. (Seephotograph 13.)

Before you assemble the unitdon't forget to put in the springand guide pin on the front of


9. Use the key to remove the cylinder. 10. The original factory lock is press fit together.Disassembly is not recommended.

11. Instead use the service package #702788 from Strattec.

12. Theignition usesall sevenpositions.

the housing, use a little greaseto ease its operation. Whenassembling the plug into thehousing, the plug may gettrapped by the buzzer activatorin the cylinder housing. If thishappens, use a small flat bladedscrewdriver to lift the buzzeractivator out of the way.

A roll pin holds the tailpieceto the back of the plug. (Seephotograph 14.)

To reinstall the ignitioncylinder, slide the cylinder inwhile maintaining light pushingpressure, then insert the keyand rotate to the ON positionand then rotate back to the OFF

position. Now reinstall thesecurity Torx, to secure thecylinder from coming out.

Before you reinstall the unitinto the car, remove the keyfrom the lock. Theignition/electrical switchassembly has two guide posts tohelp line it back up to thecolumn. Take your time lining itup, as it may take a couple ofminutes to place it in sameposition it came off. Remembernot to have the key in it whilelining it up.

Doors

The door panel needs to beremoved to service the door

lock. (See photograph 15.)

First remove the inside doorrelease trim piece by removingthe one Phillips head screw. (Seephotograph 16.) Push the trimpiece forward and thendisconnect the wiringconnector. (See photograph 17.)

Remove the cloth trim piecein the armrest cavity and thenunscrew and remove the singlePhillips head screw. (Seephotograph 18.)

Next, unsnap the speakercover and remove. The cover islocated on the forward lowersection of the door. There is onePhillips head screw located


14. A roll pinholds thetailpiece tothe plug.

13. Insert thebuzzeractivatorpart in thecorrectdirection.

15. The door panel must be removed to service this door lock. 16. Remove one Phillips head screw to remove the doorrelease trim.

under the speaker cover thatneeds to be removed. (Seephotograph 19.)

You can now remove the doorpanel. Peel back the plasticprotective film to access theinner door area. (See photograph20.)

To service the door lockcylinder it is easiest to removethe whole handle/lockassembly.

The handle is held in place bya support plate. Remove the


17. Move the trim piece forward and disconnect the electricalconnectors.

20. Thepanelcan nowberemoved.

18. Remove the arm rest screw.

19. Unsnap the speaker cover and remove the one screw found beneath it.

single 10mm nut and then theplate. (See photograph 21.)

Next, disconnect the outsidehandle release linkage rodwhere it meets the latchmechanism. Disconnect the lockcylinder linkage rod at the latchalso. They are held in place tothe latch with the standard typeplastic clips.

Now the handle assembly canbe easily removed from the car.(See photograph 22.)

The lock is held to the handleby two Phillips head screws.Remove the screws, then pullthe spacing block off the lock.(See photograph 23.)


21. The door handle is held in place by a support plate. Remove a single 10mm nut to remove the plate.

23. Remove the two Phillips head screws holding the lock in the door.

22. The handle removed.

The tailpiece needs to beremoved to disassemble thelock, it is held in place by an Eclip.(See photograph 24.)

Remove the face cap anddiscard. Replacement cap isStrattec #321848. Rememberthere are two small springs thatsit under the shutter assembly.(See photograph 25.) Now slidethe plug out of the cylinderhousing. (See photograph 26.)The door cylinder plug has fivetumblers in it, in positions 3through 7. (See photograph 27.)

Trunk Lock

The trunk lock sits under thetaillight assembly which needsto be removed to service thetrunk lock. (See photograph 28.)There are ten 10mm nuts thathold the light assembly in place.Remove the bolts, disconnectthe two taillight lamps, andremove the assembly. (Seephotograph 29.)

The lock is held to the trunklid by three 11mm nuts, removethem and take off the lock. Thelock cylinder is mounted in ametal housing. There is a largetension pin that holds thecylinder to the housing. The roll


25. Removethe face cap.

24. Removethe E-clipthat holdsthe pawl inplace.

26. The plug will now come out of the lock shell.

27. The disassembled door lock.

pin is inserted in a one wayhole. What I did was to drill a1/8" hole above the pin and usea pin punch to force the pin outthe other end of the hole. (Seephotograph 30.)

Next, remove the tailpieceand spring, but remember howit goes back together. Removethe face cap and discard.Replacement cap is Strattec#321848. Remember there aretwo small springs that sit underthe shutter assembly. (Seephotograph 31.)


28. The trunk lock is part of the trunk lid and requiresremoval of the tail light assembly for service.

29. The tail light assembly removed.

30. After removing the lock from the trunk lid, drilla 1/8” hole above the roll pin that retains the lockin the housing.

31. The disassembled trunk lock.

32. Thesqueeze typeglove boxlock.

DRILL HERE.

The trunk cylinder plugcontains five tumblers, inpositions 3 through 7.

Glove Box

The glove box lock is held inplace by a plastic horseshoeclip, similar to the squeeze typeused in GM products. (Seephotograph 32.)

The plug is held in place bytwo small plastic tabs on therear of the lock. I use a smallscrewdriver to work the tabsout a little to slide the plug outthe front. (See photograph 33.)

The glove box cylinder plughas three tumblers in it, inpositions 5, 6, and 7.

Making First Key

Method One: Use H. E.Mitchell’s EEZ Reader in thedoor to obtain cuts in positions3 through 7 and then use readerin ignition to get the tworemaining cuts in positions 1and 2 for a complete key.

Method Two: Disassembledoor or trunk lock to obtain cutsin positions 3 through 7 andthen progression remaining cuts1 and 2 for a complete key.

NOTE: I do not recommendimpressioning these locks asthe tumblers are prone tobreaking when forced.

Code Series: L00013580

Key Blank: Ilco Y157, SilcaCY22

HPC 1200CM: CX60

MACS: 2

First Cut: .297”

FRAMON: Use Ford 5 pinclip and set for first cut@ .052.

Cut to Cut: .092”

Depths: 1-.340”, 2-.315”,3-.290”, 4-.265”


33. Hold back the two plastic tabs to release the plug out the front of the lock.

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just received my updatenotice and Official

Newsletter from The Slide LockTook Company. A lot of thingshave changed since Slide Lockfirst offered the original Z-Toolset. These changes offer a lot ofnew innovations that help thelocksmith successfully open anyvehicle that he or sheencounters.

The new full program thatcontains all the new tools andfresh innovations is called theGrand Master Z-Tool System. Theset contains nine tools and nineaccessories, or has only 18 itemstotal. A hard plastic carryingcase which measures 30”(L) x9“(W) x 5”(D), and easilycarries all tools, reference book,and probe lights is available. Itis especially long to carry thespecial across the car tools.There is plenty of room to growfor new additional tools.

Photograph one shows three ofthe components in the kit. Ashort discussion of each is inorder. First, and mostimportant, is the multi-colorsystem manual which is pocketsized and completelyillustrated. The illustrations arethe best in the industry.

First, the car is looked up inthe easy 78 page alphabetized

index in the front of the manual.Next, the manual refers thespecific tool to use and to anopening procedure by numberwith any special or additionalinstructions. The referenceddiagram shows in two colorhow to open and unlockqueried vehicle.

The manual covers over 800lockout situations for vehiclesfrom 1950 to the present and is160 pages long. Included areforeign and domestic autos,

trucks, and vans. This manuallays flat or can be suctioncupped to the window of thecar for hands free step-by-stepreview. Even the position andmotion of the hands areillustrated for extra visualclarity.

With the kit comesAuthorization & Hold HarmlessRelease Forms. Do the formswork? Yes, and No. They cannotguarantee that you will not besued by a customer, either right

FEATURE ARTICLE

1. The System Manual, Hold Harmless Authorization Forms, and a squeezebottle of weatherstripping lubricant.

I

The Z-Tool StoryDale takes a look at another set of opening tools.

By Dale Libby

or wrong. The courts decidethat. And, yet, the object offilling out the form is to try andcover your services if they areever questioned by a court oflaw or by the policedepartment.

The form wants you to list theDate, Authorizing Party,Driver's License number,Vehicle VIN#, and the personopening the vehicle. There is anadditional checklist with animportant line about the historyof the opening. It will remindyou to ask the lock-outee ifsomeone has "PreviouslyAttempted to open this vehicle."Both the customer and theservice person gets a copy ofthis agreement.

Another included item is theLube Tube. This is a smallplastic squeeze bottle that isfilled with liquid dish washingsoap and wind shield washersolvent. This is used to lubricatewindow frame gaskets andweatherstripping. Whenopening vent windows, this isespecially important.

Photograph two shows theLube Tube and the new andimproved Flex-A-Wedges. Thenew red wedge is made with asmall hump which prevents thethin wedge from falling downinto the door cavity of older,looser fitting windows. Thehump also helps in inserting thewedge into tight newer fittingwindows. The wedge is justwide enough to let all the Z-Tools work without the dangerof window breakage that couldpossibly happen with wide andfat wedges.

The backbone of the Z-Toolset is the Slide Lock tool.Photograph three shows the end

of the originalZ-Tool and thenew InvertedZ-Tool. The newtool is used onmodels withthe lock link-ages locatedbelow the doorhandle linkage.A small sampleof cars that usethis configura-tion includem o d e l s o fToyota, Mazda,G e n e r a lMotors, andseveral othermanufacturers.

One of thehidden benefitsof these tools isthe notch thatfits over thecontrol rods,either with the


2. The New and Improved Flex-a-Wedges and the lubricant bottle.

3. The Standard and the Inverted Z-Tools. Workhorsesof the Master Z-Tool set.

regular Z-or Inverted Z-Tool.These are not just stamped out,but also milled. Theconfiguration will more easilygrip the rod you are trying tomove with the Mini-Box-Hooks.

Both of these tools are madeof high strength stainless steelwhich will hold their shape foryears. A nice touch on both ofthese Z-Tools are the embosseddepth guides on the edge of thetools. The directions tell youwhich depth guide mark tolower the tool to, in order tomore easily find and contact thepoint you are looking for in thecar.

Photograph four shows the Z-Tools in the bottom of thepadded case. Included is theNew Serpent(ine) Tool. This isthe button for both narrow andwide applications. Putting boththese configurations on thesame tool makes it veryconvenient. Photograph fivedisplays more of the Z-Tool

system. Shown is the Porsche928 tool and the Japanesewindow button tool.

In the center of the picture isthe newly configuredAutoBuster III tool. It has a newrounded top for easier insertionand a 9-1/2” reach. The longerreach and configuration of thetool make it easier to move theslide lock buttons and to alsomove the rocker type manuallock buttons that are making anappearance on newer cars.

Other tools that are new to thesystem bedsides the SerpentTool, the Mercedes Strip(similar to the Lemon Pop, SullyStrip) tool, and the WingWindow Tool. This last toolmakes opening vans and othervehicles with vent windows asnap. It is also a good idea touse the lube tube lubricant withthis tool.

An addition to the 1994 Z-Tool set is the FramelessWindow Tool made of stainless

steel. This tool isused on high securitydoors which do nothave a frame aroundthe window. This toolis a two partextension implementwhich is screwedtogether to create anextended reach probefor door lock buttonsand power lockrocker buttons.

A wedge is insertedin the upper part ofthe window and theassembled tool isinserted. There is alsoa plastic tube on theouter end of the toolto keep the edge ofthe rod from rubbing

directly against the windowglass. Nice Touch.

One of the more versatilefeatures of the Z-Tool system isshown in Photograph six This isthe bending chart that must beused on a few models. With thischart, you bend the basic Z-Toolto a sharper angle to extend thetool's normal reach.

Another nice feature of theregular and inverted Z-Tools isthat one tool is not the otherwith reverse hooks. Thedistance to the Mini-Box-Hooksis different on both tools,making the reach much moreversatile.

The Grand Master Z-Tool setincludes a head lamp for nightopenings. The only otherinstrument that you might wantto buy in addition is the Big "D"cell Door Cavity Probe Lightthat uses a broad spectrumreplaceable bulb. This is aprofessional aviation probelight perfect for door cavity


4. Z-Tools with Serpentine Button tool in bottom of 30” plastic foam bottom carryingcase.

viewing. The standard AA typebattery probe light will losemost of its brightness in under35 minutes, usually.

If you missed updating yourZ-Tool set in the past, do notworry. All the tools areavailable for purchaseseparately, or for special pricesif ordered with other tools orupdates. Better yet, it may besimply better to start over andorder the entire 18 piece GrandMaster Set. This way you avoidhaving to buy additional toolsto update older sets of the Z-Tools. Also it is a good idea to

have a fresh or back-up Z-Toolaround.

I have personally used the Z-Tool system for seven years andhave found the books and toolsthe best. As with anything,practice makes perfect. Otherlocksmiths have their specialsystems and tools, but nowwith the new hard doublewalled carrying case (which fitsbehind the seat of a full sizedpick-up truck)the Z-Tool is myfirst choice when I am not in myservice vehicle. Anyway, wehave Scott Selby and his crew tothank for this updated and easy

to use tool system. OPEN CARSand PROSPER.

For further information and toorder tools you can contactSlide Lock Tool Co. at 1166Topside Road, Louisville, TN37777,(800) 336-8812, FAX(615) 577-5936.


5. Auto-Buster III tool, Porsche Tool, and Japanese Buttontool.

6. Z-Tool Bending chart at rear of book.

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lot has already been saidabout the new Ford

Contour/Mercury Mystiqueexcept that, after all is said anddone, what is there to benervous about?

The keying is the samestandard 10-Cut system thatFord has been using since 1984-1/2. The ignition is highlyreminiscent of the older Capriand later Merkur XR4Ticylinders yet, as we willexplain, is easier to removewhen a key is not available. (Seephotograph 1.)

In fact, about the only trulyenlightening difference wenoticed is the use of cablesinstead of rod linkage for thedoor lock and latch release. Andit should be noted that theHonda Del Sol has used cableon their latch release as well.

Now, these aren't insouciantremarks. While there are newlines, a new price tag and somenew features to the lockingsystem on this vehicle, it is, infact, still a Ford. The aboveremarks are simply made tosettle the cloud of fear that hasbeen raised over this particularvehicle.

Those more familiar with

European and foreign autowork won't see the changes aschanges, just variations of oldsystems. Besides, service to newas well as well known systemsshould be approached with thesame appropriate degree ofcaution. And with this said, youcan be sure that service to thisvehicle is in the realm of anylocksmith currently experiencedat auto work.

Now, let's start with thebasics. As mentioned earlier,

this vehicle uses the standardFord 10-Cut keying system.Starting from the bow, the doorlocks are wafer locks usingspaces 1 through 6. The ignitionis a sidebar lock using spaces 5through 10. Well known is thesharing of spaces 5 and 6.

[Note: Ford actually startstheir spacing from the tip of thekey. Space or cut one starts atthe tip and cut 10 ends at thebow. Understanding thespacing from this perspective

FEATURE ARTICLE

1. Lockset from the new Ford Contour.

A

The Not-So-Amazing Ford ContourThe differences in this vehicle have been overrated,

and are actually variations of older systems.By Tom Seroogy

make keying the locks andcutting keys on this systemmuch easier to understand andfollow. And, in fact, Irecommend this approach.However, to accommodate thelocksmith and most locksmithmanufacturers who produceFord aftermarket products, thisarticle will follow the tradee s t a b l i s h e d b o w - t o - t i psequence.]

The trunk and the glove boxuse the standard Ford 5-Cutsecondary key. The glove boxuses wafer tumblers in spaces 2,3 and 4. The trunk usestumblers in all five spaces andare wafer tumblers not pin.After removing the trunk lock,the wafers can be easily readthrough a drain hole on thebottom of the lock.

Key Generation

Primary Key:

Method 1 - Use H.E.Mitchell's #H54 Eez Reader,sight read, impression, or usetry-out keys to determine thecuts of the tumblers in the doorlock. Then either use try-outkeys or progression the cuts inthe ignition. (A Ford 10-Cutprogression chart is available


2. This lock uses a push button retainer and a snap ring that's keyed into the housing.

PUSH BUTTONRETAINER

3. The door locks use a plastic facecap. Be careful removing and replacing. Replacements are not yet available.

PLASTIC TAB

from H.E. Mitchell uponrequest.)

Method 2 - Remove the doorlock and read the tumblerdepths through the drain holeon the bottom of the cylinder.Then either use try-out keys orprogression the cuts in theignition.

Secondary Key:

Method 1 - Sight read orimpression the trunk lock.

Method 2 - Sight read glovebox lock. Then progression orimpression trunk.

Method 3 - Remove trunklock and read tumblers through

drain hole in the bottom of thelock.

Ignition Removal

As stated earlier, the ignitioncylinder is almost identical tothe older Capri and laterMerkur XR4Ti ignitions. Themain difference is that insteadof a spring steel retainer similarto the VW ignition lock, thisunit uses a push button retainer.

Besides the push buttonretainer, a keyed snap ring onthe back of the lock plug holdsthe lock in the housing. (Seephotograph 2.) In order toremove this lock, the plug mustbe turned to the ON position to

allow depression of the buttonretainer as well as align thesnap ring with a ward orbroaching in the lock housing.

Method 1 - Remove plasticshroud. Use working key orpick ignition to the ONposition. Depress the lockcylinder retainer found at aboutbetween the 12 and 1 o'clockposition. Remove cylinder.

Method 2 - If working key isnot available, the lock does notpick or is malfunctioning, fromthe face of the lock drill andremove the sidebar and turn tothe ON position. Depress thelock cylinder retainer andremove the lock.

Note: The sidebar is located tothe left-center of the keyway.While there is no hardenedmaterial covering the sidebaritself, there is a hardened ringinsert in the cylinder that caneasily damage or break the drillbit. Be careful.

Door Lock

The only variation from thenorm on the door locks is thetwo piece plastic facecap. Thefacecap consists of the outer,trim portion, and an innerpiece. The inner piece isactually a clear optical lens forthe illuminated entry models.On models where there is notilluminated entry, this piece isblack. The facecap uses heatstaked plastic tabs hold it to thecylinder. As no replacementsare currently available, removethem gently. I used a solderinggun to melt the tabs back inplace. (See photograph 3.)

Trunk Lock

The trunk lock is held into thecar and a large sleeve by a clip.


4. The trunklock in itssleeve.

5. The wafers for the trunk lock are easily visible through the bottomdrain hole.

TUMBLERSVISIBLE

(See photograph 4.) While using asecondary key, this lock useswafer tumblers instead of pintumbler. They can be easily readthrough the bottom drain hole.(See photograph 5.)

Like the door lock, the facecapis plastic and heat staked inplace. If necessary, use a Dremeltool to cut away only theoverlapping portion of thestake. Use a soldering gun torestake. (See photograph 6.)

Glove Box

If working on the glove box,the plug is held into the lock bythree small tabs on the back ofthe plug. Use a small hollowtube to compress the tabs (Iused a tailpiece from a Kwiksetdeadbolt) and release the lockcam or pawl and return spring.Then rake the tumblers to pushthe plug out the front of thelock. (See photograph 7.) Toreassemble, simply press all thecomponents back together.

And there youhave it, an easylesson in theContour/Mystiquem y s t e r y l o c ksystem.

Stay tuned to ourfuture issues whentechnical writerMichael Hyde runsus through the fullservice lock proce-dure on this nowfamiliar vehicle.

For more informa-t i o n o n t h eEez Reader andprogression chart,c o n t a c t H . E .Mitchell at P.O. Box14009, Portland,OR, 97214. Phone(800) 626-5625.


6. This lock also has a plastic facecap and heatstaked retaining tabs.

PLASTIC TAB

7. Three small locking tabs hold the glove box lock together. Using asmall diameter tube to compress the tabs will release the plug out thefront of the lock.

LOCKING TABS

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ome of the information in thiscolumn is new to most and just

reminders to others. Appearing ona regular basis, AutoSmart Add-Ons will cover several differentauto topics including: keys, locksand locking systems, airbags andrelated topics, vehicle modelchanges and Auto Tools.Volvo Side Airbags

According to my sources, one ofthe first Volvos equipped with thenew side airbags was in anaccident just prior to the end of1994. The accident happened on afreeway in Dallas, when a cargoing in the other direction crossedthe center divider at an estimatedspeed of 65 mph and hit the Volvoon the left side. Both seat airbagswere deployed along with bothfront driver and passenger airbags.I think just having four airbagsgoing off at one time would beenough for me to head for the localbar. Nobody in the Volvo wasinjured. The airbags are located inthe side of the seats, not the door.There were prototypes that hadthem in the door, but that waschanged before final productionbegun.A-1 Security

There is a new tool coming to adistributor near you, made by thegood folks at A-1 Security and it'shot. The new tool is for GM 10-CutIgnition locks. The tool works onboth the car and the truck models.The tool allows you to pick,remove and then decode theignition to make a working key. Nodrilling and no damage to the lockis necessary. It comes with a verygood manual that is easy tounderstand.Chrysler Mini-vans

The 1995 Chrysler mini-vans,(Chrysler Town & Country, DodgeCaravan, and Plymouth Voyager)are using the tumbler locations of1994 models. Cuts 3 through 7 inthe doors and cuts 1 through 7 inthe ignition. Chrysler has releasedits 1996 Mini-vans early and theirtumbler locations are different. Thedoors and the ignition have cuts 1through 7. The doors will be usingthe new style wafer tumbler in the1996 models. The older wafer

tumblers were prone to breakage.Remember the fastest way to makea key to this van is to use an EEZ-Reader, sold by H.E. Mitchell Co.Ford 10-Cut Reminder

All standard Ford 10-Cutignitions (except Escort/Tracer1991 & up, Contour, Mystique), thecuts that contact the key are on thetop of the keyway (the side closestto the driver). Escort/Tracer 1991and up, Contour, Mystique, thecuts that contact the key are on thebottom (the side farthest awayfrom the driver). All Ford pintumbler ignitions the cuts thatcontact the key are on the bottom(the side farthest away from thedriver).Lexus 1995 LS400

Lexus released its newredesigned version of the LS400, afew months ago. They took thetransmitter out of the key head andput it on a small key fob. The talkat Lexus is that they will put thetransmitter back in the key headstarting in the 1996 Model year.Lexus owners have complainedthat the key-head-transmitter wasone of the reasons they bought aLexus to begin with. The Lexus keywith a built in transmitter has asmall button on it that allows thedoors to be locked or unlockedwhen the button is pressed. It alsoarms or disarms the alarm. A verynice idea.Pontiac Transport &Chevy Lumina Van

These vans now come with anoption that allow the sliding sidedoor to be opened or closed with apower motor, and is operated froma key fob. The problem is thesensor that is suppose to stop thedoor from closing on a child orobstacle, is not always working toproper specifications. It is possiblefor the power sliding door tocontinue to try and close itself evenwhen there is an obstacle present,including a child's neck. We testedthis and had a service managerfrom a dealership try and hold thedoor back as the it was trying toclose. He turned red in the facetrying to hold the power slidingdoor open.

Range Rover &Defender Warning

Changes were made in theignitions of these vehicles for 1995.Ilco's new 1995 Auto/Truck KeyBlank Reference says you can usethe X170 or NE48. This not true.These blanks if used on a 1995model will get stuck in the ignition,DO NOT USE THEM. The onlycorrect blank for these vehicles isfrom SILCA. The Silca key blanknumber is NE75EP.The New Range Rover 4.0SE

There is a new Range Rover outthere called the 4.0SE. This vehicleuses a Four-Track High-SecurityKeyway with a Transponder in thebow of the key. Yes, it is so far theultimate in High-Security keys. Thekey looks similar to a Mercedes 4-Track key, except the key has ablunt tip, no point. The lockingsystem is made by HUF' ofGermany. A replacement key takesabout 3 to 4 weeks to obtain andthey are made in Germany,according to your VIN. Areplacement key will cost the 4.0SEowner about $111.40. The vehiclecomes with 2 keys, one black andone gray. The transponder in thekey also resets the seat and mirrorsfor that driver using that colorcoded key.

This vehicle also includes adeadbolt system. It should benoted that this is a deadbolt systemand not a deadlock system used byBMW.Ford Probe

It looks like the 1996 Ford Probewill be the last year for this model.The Probe is made off of the Mazda626 platform.Lexus Airbags

If you disconnect the battery andthen disconnect the airbag you willtrip a device that will activate thedash light for the SRS System, oncethe battery is re-connected. Thelight will stay on all the time, untilthe device can be reset. This is asafety feature for the SRS System.Since Lexus believes it should bethe only one working on these cars.Resetting the device is easy, butcan only be done at the dealerbecause a special tool is required.•

FEATURE ARTICLE

SAuto Parts By Michael Hyde

the 1995 chrysler lebaron - locksmith...

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