the 55 gallon deer feeder

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The 55 Gallon Deer Feeder Start with a 55 gallon (metal preferred for security reasons) barrel. This particular barrel does not have a removable top (which is more desirable), and will have to be cut open. In addition, a waterproof top must be made or found. Barrels can be purchased locally (check your yellow pages), or in this case, scrounged from a auto junk yard (it was free). Some of the basic parts needed. Funnel, bracket for 12 volt motor, external leg brackets. Motor shaft/coupling/threaded rod details:

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The 55 Gallon Deer Feeder

Start with a 55 gallon (metal preferred for security reasons) barrel. This particular barrel does not have a removable top (which is more desirable), and will have to be cut open. In addition, a waterproof top must be made or found. Barrels can be purchased locally (check your yellow pages), or in this case, scrounged from a auto junk yard (it was free).

Some of the basic parts needed. Funnel, bracket for 12 volt motor, external leg brackets. Motor shaft/coupling/threaded rod details:Pound the threaded rod into the compression sleeve. This can take abuse without damaging anything. Then place it over the motor shaft.....but...

DANGER:

Do not pound on the motor shaft itself. You will push it into the motor housing and damage the motor. Get someone to hold the shaft as close to the motor housing with needle nose vise grips, or something to take the pounding pressure. Put the pliers in a vise for additional holding power if there is room. You just don't want to pound on the motor shaft directly.

I am currently working on a cheap timer. When ready, it will be posted here. Any 12 volt timer will do, however; I prefer to purchase Sweeny timers. I have used them for years and they work great! Purchase in the winter time for the best sale prices. This unit sells for $84.99 but I have purchased them on sale for $64.99. Just ran into this timer and bought one... Sesame Feeders Also try Harrisons $35.00 timer. Feeders for less Now Bass Pro Shop and Cabelas are selling cheap timers!

Cut the top open. If you can find a barrel with a removable top and locking band...great!, this will save your a lot of work.

Turn your barrel upside down and work on the bottom portion. Place your funnel that you purchased or made, on top of the drum and draw a line around the diameter. This is the "outside line".

From the "outside line" you previously drew, measure in about an inch and a half. Connect the marks creating the "inner circle". This is the line you will cut to open up the bottom for the funnel. This lip is needed to attach the funnel too, with rivets.

Inner and outer circles. You need a good 1 to 2 inches to rivet the funnel to.

Drill some starting holes. Insert a jig saw or sawsall and cut out the "inner circle". Make sure you leave a good lip to rivet to.

Keep cutting...almost done.

Done. Both the top and the bottom are cut. Finding a barrel with a removable top saves half the cutting. Now its time to attach the funnel to the bottom.

The Funnel:

The funnel can be fabricated from sheet metal, or you can purchase one from Bass Pro Shops. It is aprox. 5 inches deep. This measurement will be needed to place the motor shaft at the correct depth later.

Mount the motor bracket with two bolts on each side. Using ensolite pad or a worn out beer cool helps keep the noise and vibration down.

Install the motor support before installing the funnel. Locate the motor support bracket so it is about 5 inches deep. This will allow the shaft to protrude out of the funnel so a spin plate can be attached.

Drill around the funnel, through both layers and insert a rivet. Rivet completely around the funnel.

Drill and rivet. Then drill and rivet some more.

Looking down, or is that up?

Side view

Shaft poping out, needs a spin plate

The motor is a 12 volt Model 2m197 Dayton Electric motor, Chicago Il. 60648. I purchased this one from Granger Supply. Really, most any 12v motor will do. A powerfull motor may spin faster and in a larger pattern.

Tear apart an old beer cooler and use for sound insulation.

Legs:

Attach the legs between the two ridges on the barrel. Drill through and attach the inner piece of metal to reinforce the legs.

Use a solid piece of 1/4" metal (or what ever you have) or an "L" shaped piece to use as a backer for strength.

Spin Plate

The spin plate is just a thin but stiff piece of metal or aluminum cut into a 6 inch or so circle. Any round template such as an old grinding wheel will work. Mark the circle and cut it out with some tin snips. With a grinder or some sand paper, round the edges. In the exact center, drill a hole large enough to slip over the motor shaft. Make a couple of 3/4 to an inch slits that are bent up to act as ears which will catch the corn and shoot it out. Use a couple of washers and nuts to lock it in. I put two on top and two on the bottom to lock them in.