the adventures of a bartop arcade v 1 -...

The adventures of a Bartop Arcade v 1.0

Projecting, assembling and hacking as a children back in the 80’s

By Andrea Mancini

The Adventures of a Bartop Arcade v 1.0 by Andrea Mancini is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.

0

http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/

The jamma cable 2

The Pandora’s Box 5

The VGA plug 10

Mega HACK!!! 10

Power supply 13

Sound System 15 The THD 16 Short Circuit Protection 17 Thermal Shutdown 17

Build the cabinet 19

Electrical part 25

How to cut the Plexiglas 26

Electric system 29

Plug the world! 31

External power plug 33

The Autofire 36

Conclusion 39

References 40

Authenticity 42

Introduction When I thought to build an arcade I supposed that would have been easy, but a plug and play hardware wasn’t a paradise as expected to be… In this guide I’ll teach you the basics about the hardware and some tricks to make your life easier. We will talk about the “jamma cable”. This cable was the old standard used to wire the motherboard to the peripherals (joystick, speakers…). You’ll learn some hardware stuff but not so much about cabinet assembly….. I prefer teach you some hacks more than how to be the perfect carpenter, because I’m not.


1


The jamma cable

The jamma plug of the Pandora’s box (the brain of my Arcade) doesn’t have test, service, tilt and key slot pins. In the old circuit boards, test button if grounded active the ROM integrity check. Service button was used to enter inside the configuration menu. The tilt pin was used to check if the player was cheating by moving the machine. The key slot is a plastic piece to avoid reverse connection….. Fortunately my Pandora rocky version has the protection on board…. I heard about smoke and flames on the old boards. These pins are not needed in newer Arcade because the Pandora has a small button on the box that allow you to enter in the software setting. Here you can see the differences between the classic jamma cable and the Pandora’s one


2


Pandora’s jamma


3


Classic jamma


4


The Pandora’s Box Let’s talk about Pandora’s…. This magic… almost …. box is a plug and play hardware useful to make a brand new Arcade or to repair an old one. You can find two version of Pandora’s Box : the HD version and the normal one. HD version use only vga port. If you look at the circuit tracks on the board you see that video data signal pins of jamma plug are disconnected (don’t trust vendors that affirm that HD version has also video out on jamma). I’m not so expert about jamma because I need to build an arcade with an LCD…. Well also a jamma cable is not needed …. I was swimming in a mess of wire when I realized that an USB adapter and 4 cables instead of 6 buttons x 2 + 4 joystick switches x 2 + 2 start buttons + 1 ground wire = 23 wires would has been a better solution. I bought the Pandora “rocky version”…. The cheapest one…. It is a good device with some expedients. The Pandora, as I mention before, is “supposed” to be retro compatible with jamma cables. I told supposed because the female plug in the box is not really a jamma plug. I think due to patent protection, some pins in the Pandora’s jamma aren’t in the right position. This is not a problem: if you want to keep back on life your old 80’s baby just buy an adapter like this http://www.arcade-projects.com/forums/index.php?thread/208-jnx-atlas-adapter-for-your-pandora-s-box-blue-elf-game-elf-etc/


5

http://www.arcade-projects.com/forums/index.php?thread/208-jnx-atlas-adapter-for-your-pandora-s-box-blue-elf-game-elf-etc/

http://www.arcade-projects.com/forums/index.php?thread/208-jnx-atlas-adapter-for-your-pandora-s-box-blue-elf-game-elf-etc/


Fortunately I do not need to keep alive an old buddy but build a young baby. Pandora’s box is not so bad but need some hacks to work fine. Before explain how to hack it and boast myself :) I want to explain a little bit how the hardware works. Ok, now deep inside the circuits! This is a Pandora’s box rocky version as you can see in the picture.


6


Is much cheaper that the classic version. The rocky cost about 32 EUR and the classic one about 70 EUR… Big difference!!!! Here you can see a picture of the classic version.


7


The box change a little bit. Don’t care too much about the shape but look at the name “rocky” engraved on the plastic shield. I think that the most important differences between the two boxes are the lack of the jack 3.5 inch plug and the encrypted software in the rocky version. Ok… what does it means? If you look at the rocky board you see the housing for the smd jack plug but there is no plug.

Just solder it on the board and TATA!!! Now is a classic box. Unfortunately life is hard….. The biggest problem is the code. If you take a look inside the sd card you see some files. All this stuff is supposed to be a dedicated linux system with a game emulator and roms. If you try to reverse engineering these files (you can use different hex editor like HxD, Ida Pro…..) you can see that the code is encrypted. This make impossible to understand where the roms are saved and is really hard make changes (open source RULES!). Here http://mengxipeng.blog.com/2015/08/07/how-to-change-or-add-games-in-pandoras-box-v3 you can find a good reverse engineering for the Pandora’s box classic version and add roms. REMEMBER TO BACKUP THE SD CARD BEFORE DO IT! I mean


8

http://mengxipeng.blog.com/2015/08/07/how-to-change-or-add-games-in-pandoras-box-v3

http://mengxipeng.blog.com/2015/08/07/how-to-change-or-add-games-in-pandoras-box-v3


DUMP the memory and don’t do a copy and paste. This sd is formatted as boot disk. I didn’t reverse the code because I solved some working issues by looking at the hardware. Later you will see :) Now give a look to the motherboard.

Here some specs:

- jamma plug - Allwinner CPU - RAM memory - 12V to 5V stepdown (whaat???.... jamma pins waste) - ATMEGA chip (probably used to control buttons)

By giving a fast look this make me remember a smartphone or a raspberry PI. We have a cheap Android phone CPU with RAM, a stepdown (a circuit that lower the voltage by using a PWM https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buck_converter) and an ATMEGA chip used by Arduino or other microcontrollers. You can see how the retrocompatibility of the Pandora is only a waste of pins. You can notice that there is no track on the board attached to the 5V jamma pin. It is not needed. So why use a jamma???? (I think I’ll repeat many time this).


9


The VGA plug The newer LCD monitor with VGA and DVI plug need +5V on the optional pin number 9. This pin is used to keep fresh the LCD memory. Internet is full of VGA pinout schemes and the most of the people think that VGA plug is only able to transfer analog signals. This is not true. More sophisticated board like computer’s motherboard can check monitor info and try to adapt them output/input to the monitor preferences. To check these info, pins that are usually grounded in simple devices, are used to transport a digital signal in more sophisticated boards. Look here http://pinouts.ru/Video/Vga15_pinout.shtml

Mega HACK!!! Now is the right moment: how to make the Pandora’s box a good device?..... Only one wire! Yes is really simple. Take your solder and join the jamma 5V pin with the VGA pin 9. Be careful!! Solder the wire to the vga pin by keeping the metal part of the wire far from the board and use some tape to avoid a short circuit with the other pins. The Pandora’s box case has enough space to host the mod, I suggest to make a flat soldering on 5V pin in jamma male plug and use a thin wire or you will have


10

http://pinouts.ru/Video/Vga15_pinout.shtml


problem to close the box and connect the jamma cable. In this pictures you can see the wiring

Buttons and joysticks works with push buttons switches as you can see in the pictures.


11


There are switches with three pins and others with two. In case of two pins doesn't matter where you connect GND or input because this kind of switches are open on button release and close on press. If you have three pins there is one always connected (COM) that you can short to GND, another closed on release (normally closed) and the last one open (normally open). Usually you connect the button input wire to the normally open pin. To know the pinout use a tester or see the image engraved on plastic on the switch, if present. Joystick usually is sold already assembled. Why do you need this machine setup? The best way to build a trigger or interrupt button is a "pull up resistor".

What does it means??... Simple, as you can see in the pictures, the input is connected to a voltage source of 5V using a resistor to avoid power waste or circuit damage (a smd pin device can be triggered using a current of few μA). The board software know that the event change (ON/OFF) when the input that is normally 5V become 0V (should change just under 2,5V). The connection between the jamma button wire (the input) and GND act as closing the switch of the picture above. Input can reach 0V easily because the current flow between VCC and GND is hard due to the high value resistor. Think to this resistor as a very big constriction in a water pipe and the input as a humidity probe. The probe can signal the presence of humidity if is touched by only one drop of water. We should talk about switch, interrupt, debouncing and microcontrollers for hours, but is not needed to assemble an arcade. If you search on web these keywords you will find a lot of information. Later I will talk about how to build an autofire button, so I invite you to look at this stuff a little bit.


12


Power supply

I used a Chinese power supply bought on Aliexpress. This power supply sometimes is tricky because it has a small trimmer used to change the voltage of +5V and +12V source lines. You can change it of about + 1V -1V, so don't worry you will not fry the board. If the voltage is too low the Pandora's box 3 still work fine but you should have problem with other devices in your arcade like amplifier, speakers and lights. Now listen very carefully!!! Look at the 110V - 220V switch, CHECK IT BEFORE POWER ON!!!!!! If you switch it to 110V and you connect the power supply to a 220V network you see the stars.... REALLY!!! I tried one time with an ATX power supply of my PC and It started to burn, the silicon fried


13


and smoke effects. WRONG SWITCH POSITION SHOULD CAUSE A FIRE!!! This power supply seem a little bit weak. it is a small box made of thin metal and the terminals array is quite loose, seem like it should jump away from the board while you are clamping the screws.... maybe remember a fuse to avoid to see your video game too much real ;) Good thing of this power supply... yes It has at least a good point: fixing bar. you can easily fix it to the wood panel of yours arcade. Now I'm using this power supply for my arcade and work fine (finger cross), is slim, provide enough power to the machine and no cooling fun. I suggest to use an ATX power supply if you have enough space.

It is bigger but it has a more stable power source because it can provide much more power than a cheaper one. If you use an ATX Pc power supply remember to short


14


green wire to black (Ground). ATX doesn't work if there is no load….. well, now that I’m doing the last check before document publishing, I think that the fun is a pain in the ass. After some months it become dirty and noisy.

Sound System Pandora's Box 3 has speaker+ and speaker- pins on jamma output and a small wheel to change volume near the settings menu button. Change volume using this wheel is very uncomfortable because you have to open your cabinet every time to do that so I decided to install a cursor in a better position.


15


Instead of using only a trimmer I decide to buy the whole amplifier.

It is very cheap and cost 0,70 EUR. It is an ultracompact digital stereo amplifier made with the PAM8403. Here you can find the datasheet of this amazing product: http://www.diodes.com/_files/datasheets/PAM8403.pdf The most important features:

- 3W Output at 10% THD with a 4Ω - Short Circuit Protection - Thermal Shutdown

Ok. Try to explain why this small buddy is so nice:

The THD

THD means Total Harmonic Distortion. This is a value that is made by the sum of all the harmonic distortion plus the fundamental frequency (for example sine wave). Harmonic distortions usually are made by overtones that are whole number multiples of a sound wave's frequencies. Lower is THD, better it is. Very low THD cannot be perceived by human ear. Watt output and Ohm impedance When you decide to wire some speakers to a source like an amplifier you must look at some things: - The impedance value (2, 4, 8 Ohm) means the resistance that the speaker oppose to the source. The source must support the same impedance of the speaker.


16


- If you wire two speakers on the same channel you divide the impedance by 2 (for example if the channel expect 4 Ohm you can wire two speakers of 8 Ohm) - You must check the RMS power of the speakers. This value refer to the normal working condition. This value usually is much lower than “peak” power that is the maximum power that a speaker can support before damage. BE CAREFUL look at the first value not the second. - The source should produce a power 50% bigger than the power drained by the speakers, to avoid overheating or damage during play. To understand better this concept you can see this video: https://youtu.be/pUou_noD1Gc

Short Circuit Protection

Should happen that the output wires short circuits. In this case the output is automatically disconnected and the circuit is safe.

Thermal Shutdown Maybe you pump it up?... Don't worry the output will be disconnected when the chip reach +140°. Output will be reset automatically when the temperature down to +30°. After all these technical explanations I can suggest you to keep low the volume. I didn't spend all my life to balance the audio system to reproduce emulated game audio tracks. I think that the best reasons that let me choose this small amplifier is the price that is the same of a trimmer and the fact that if sometimes wrong, is better burn the PAM8403 that the Pandora's box. Now is the time to plug in the speakers. Go to a thrift shop and by two speakers like this.


17

https://youtu.be/pUou_noD1Gc


Should happen that the diaphragm (the larger top side membrane) broke in very cheap speakers. When you switch on the arcade the speaker give a beat and I think this cause a cut in the external part of the diaphragm near metal shield. I solved the problem by using a glue gun. Just glue the membrane following the cut. In the picture you can see a glue gun.


18


This tool is very useful. It has a resistor that become hot and when you press the tube of glue from behind, it leaks from the front. Is called glue but look like gum, when it cool down assume the same consistence of the starting tube. My suggestion is to take at least a 25 Watt gun. More is the power better is the melting process. The bad thing is that if the nozzle is very hot the glue continue to leak.

Build the cabinet Build you own cabinet should be very hard. Modelling the wood professionally is not easy. The easiest way is to buy an arcade cabinet kit. You can find online many companies that produce these kits and you can also develop you own graphics online. The company will send you the kits with the graphics printout using adhesive high quality paper. The model that I choose is called “bartop”. I bought one of the most common model. These models are made following open sources blueprints like this: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,130522.msg1380756.html#msg1380756 Keep in mind that if you want to build your Arcade from zero you have to varnish the panels. The varnishing is a process to make a wood panel smooth and give the


19


possibility to apply some labels. This process is not so easy and required many layers of paints and particular wood products. I decided to buy varnished kit from this site: www.arcade4you.de. This site is very well made and give you the possibility to design your graphics online by using a good web tool. I bought this model. In the picture you can see it assembled... my first assembly... sigh, sigh :)


20


As you can see there is a white varnishing. The white kit is cheaper than the black ones.

You can find this kit here:

https://arcade4you.de/?product=arcade-bartop-diy-kit&lang=en. This design is very basic so I suggest you to personalize it. I put a Plexiglas panel on the commands deck to avoid that my hand should fade the graphics while I'm playing hard (later see “how to cut the Plexiglas”). Before apply the labels clean the surface with a mixture of water and alcohol and apply them by peeling off only one part and spread them by using a rug. Rub the surface while stretch the label. The heat and the pressure will make the process bubble safe. Unfortunately the panel borders have no incision to fix the gum protection that was usually used in the arcades. I decide to put some black tape and some very fashion chrome stripes. You can find this stripes on web or in the tuning car shops with the name: “car chrome strip”.


21

https://arcade4you.de/?product=arcade-bartop-diy-kit&lang=en


These stripes has one side with a very sticky glue and they are made with a mixture of plastic and metal. They bright like aluminum but doesn't dent if bend. A good guy give me this solution.... I suggest you to take a look to this facebook group https://www.facebook.com/groups/2370133573/ … amazing arcade made by artists!!! The panels of the arcade has incision to fit the other panels and make the structure stronger. The first assembly should be quite hard, because the incision have the exact size of the panel to fix. Don't worry take a hammer and give small blows on the border of the flat part. Remember to put a rag on the panel to avoid to destroy the varnishing. Be very careful this operation take times and is better to go slow but make a good work, this is chipboard. Is normal that some piece of varnishing jump away from the borders of the incisions and them become wider. Fortunately you are damaging the internal part that nobody care. Do you like your cabinet look like a toilet caravan? NO! So buy a roll of this


22


This is a varnished wood film. Apply it on the panels like with graphic labels. When you peel off the film I thought that the adhesive was weak, instead it isn't. The harder part is to drill the wood panels to install the LCD wood support. The seller give you the possibility to decide how to mount the monitor. I found that the best solution was lay down the monitor on the border of the joystick panel and fix it on the support with vesa screws. No panic… they are just normal screws normally used for monitors. Just use some nuts to have the size when you fit the monitor to the panel. Drill the panel is quite difficult.... I was praying while I was doing that..... I suggest to use a Dremel. Is light and easy to handle.


23


You can find also cheaper copies of the original one with interesting tools. In this case we need two normal drill tips. With the first make a pilot hole and with the second the final one. Be careful: if you drill too deep you piers the panel on the opposite side instead, if is not enough, when you clamp the screw you press the chip and you will see a hump in the label on the external part. Remember that the diameter of the hole must be smaller than the diameter of the screw. The kit that I used include all the screws and the metal supports. When everything is stick together you realize that no glue is needed too keep stable the structure, the central LCD support make the cabinet strong. If you have a little knowledge of architecture with this pictures you will understand what I mean... if not study how to build a medieval house :)


24


Electrical part And now! Shine! You can find online very cheap white led stripes.

Search for the cheapest one NOT waterproof 12V. They are really cheap, adhesive and you can by them in pieces if you are not interested in all the wheel. How is this possible? Simple! All the leds of the circuits are connected in parallel so you can cut the stripe and choose the right dimension.


25


As you can see in the picture every piece has a cutting line where there are the soldering pads. You will solder here your wires. Stick them behind the top Plexiglas panel to light up the top front label.

How to cut the Plexiglas To make a good work you must be really patience. Buy a Plexiglas panel. Good panel doesn't change color if they heat up. Buy a panel bigger that the size you need for the joysticks deck.... the first time should be a mess. Measure the size of the deck and with a pen trace some lines on the Plexiglas. Now cut along the line by using a


26


professional wood cutter (metal shield and thick blade). When you make the first cut do not press too much and make a small incision. This will be the pilot incision. After that, cut repeatedly following the incision making a good pressure. In this manner you will be able to cut also thick panels avoiding to scarf the surface. Do not cut the panel by using a cutting wheel. If you heat the Plexiglas it melt like plastic and the result will be a shame. When done put the panel on the deck. Draw the circles by following the holes of the buttons and joystick handles. To open the holes on Plexiglas fortunately is not required to be like Michelangelo. The handles have a disk plastic cover and the buttons have a larger border. Take the carbide cutter. There are different size. I used the cylindrical one but maybe the cone is better.


27


With the carbide cutter make a hole in the center of the circle and mill by turning around your hand to make the hole larger. To do a good job you have to set the dremel to a medium speed. Low speed make it vibrate and splinter the Plexiglas, high speed make it melt and you will see the plastic stick around the tool like the Lunapop cotton candy. I took the wrong decision. The picture below show you the tools that you should use.


28


Electric system

Here you can see how I disposed the hardware inside the cabinet..... well is a little bit a spaghetti wiring but is safe. I fix the power supply with some screws. Thermal protection is not required all the hardware is so power safe that you can play for hours with this supply with no troubles and has no fan. Lack of fan means lack of noise :) See the power required... so power safe! Is like a bulb light.


29



30


Plug the world! The best way that I found to plug everything is by using faston terminal connectors.


31


The best way to safe the wire to the faston is by soldering it. Use a 40W iron solder. keep the tip on the surface until tinplate. You will need some second more than a usual copper wire soldering. Be careful to avoid cold soldering (tin become like like a ball), a bad contact should cause an overheating and hardware damage. Avoid to use cheap Chinese wires they aren't made with copper and they broke in the long time. I used some wires from old phone power supplies. Be careful: in some models like Motorola the copper part is rounded by a plastic film that melt and make them hard to solder. To make everything short-circuit safe I bought some fuse holder like this with the fuse.


32


Try 5A... too small burn instantly and bigger shouldn't burn so fast damaging your cute buddy :(

External power plug How to plug our baby to the power wall plug? There are two choices the good looking one and the practical one.

I think every cabinet that I have ever seen has a switch power plug on the rear part.


33


I found this switch online with the fuse holder integrated. This solution seem to be very interesting, but I found two problems: the first was to find a nice way to fix it on the wood panel without make my piece of art a piece of shit, the second was the weakness of this product... I found the metal parts was moving under soldering due to plastic melting. I decided to take the second way: direct connection with no switch, but I found that every time you try to connect the plug to the power net you see sparks. This is normal with pc power supplies. It happens because they have some big inductors and capacitors used to smooth the power signal wave and avoid to damage motherboards that are delicate. You can find more info on web if you type "inductive load". Every spark produce a small solder. In a very short time laps the two terminals of the voltage arc become so hot that melt. The best solution I think is to use a power switch plug like this.


34



35


The Arcade doesn’t need to keep fresh an internal memory. Keep it plugged is not necessary. In case you are using a female 220V switch plug for the Arcade, you have all the time power on the terminal…. Why take this risk. Short circuits are around the corner.

The Autofire Give a touch of magic to our Arcade! “the Autofire” is the typical function of many gamepads that give you the possibility to fire continuously by keeping press the fire button. I study and developed a hardware autofire because is not possible to set this function by software in the Pandora. This give me the possibility to change the hardware core of my cabinet and maintain this function.

Online is possible to find an autofire project different from mine. You can find this project here: http://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Passive_Autofire . When I looked the first


36

http://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Passive_Autofire


time to this project I told …. wtf??? I’m not sure but this device works by changing the digital state of the button pin repetitively by charging and discharging a capacitor that change the input pins of a HEX inverter. Did you understand?… NO? ….well me neither! I think is much better using a NE555 timer with the astable configuration.

As the circuit mention before, the NE555 is capable to change the state of the output pin in different ways depending from the configuration design. To have an idea of what I’m saying you can check this site http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/waveforms/555_timer.html or this http://www.sentex.ca/~mec1995/gadgets/555/555.html . We are interested in the astable configuration (the output change from 0 to 1 and viceversa continuously). My idea is connect the fire button to the jamma wire and connect the second terminal of the button to the autofire wire and not to GND directly. The NE555 will drive a NPN transistor that has this wire on the collector and the GND on the emitter. The autofire board has also the possibility to connect the wire directly to GND, in this case the Arcade will works normally.

I’m still working to make my own PCB Autofire board but now I have a prototype that works really well...and I’m so proud of this. To make it I used a NE555 board that I found on www.aliexpress.com with the name NE555 pulse frequency, duty cycle adjustable.


37

http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/waveforms/555_timer.html

http://www.sentex.ca/~mec1995/gadgets/555/555.html

http://www.aliexpress.com/


This board has bridges and trimmers so you can change the frequency and duty cycle. In the pictures you can see the bridge in the first position. That bridge connect the big electrolytic cap to the NE555 make it oscillating at the frequency of about 1 second. One second is too much time so I switched to the second bridge. This bridge and the other two are connected with the small SMD capacitors. These positions adjust the frequency to few milliseconds. The bridge in the second position works well, but if you increase the frequency the button switching is too fast and autofire doesn’t works anymore. This happen because the wave period is higher than button debouncing. The perfect period should be around 300 – 500 ms. Here you can find the scheme of my first prototype made with the board in the picture above.


38


Be careful, in this scheme the NE555 module has the GND and OUT pins inverted for a better understanding. When you connect read the pin names on the board.

Here you can see the video where I enable autofire and disable it during play https://youtu.be/ao-EFap83d4

Conclusion My tutorial is more focused on the hardware because I’m not so good as a designer and carpenter and this is my first Arcade project. I started assembling the Arcade thinking that a plug and play hardware should has been the faster solution but I was wrong. Build an arcade with a Raspberry PI is the best solution. This platform that you can see here https://www.raspberrypi.org/ , allow you to make the best Arcade machine ever. This platform is open source and technologically updated with usb ports, hdmi port….. Setup it is easy: if you see here https://retropie.org.uk/ you can find a full working game solution. Just follow the instructions and you can play to a lot of games by using different emulators.


39

https://youtu.be/ao-EFap83d4

https://www.raspberrypi.org/

https://retropie.org.uk/


So… what else… If you have Facebook take a look to my album https://web.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10154011751672154.1073741848.576842153&type=1&l=57f108a441

and here the gameplay! https://youtu.be/vYNig6xXnPw

Let me know if you like or for any suggestion at [email protected]

References Images:

Jamma cable: https://na.suzohapp.com/images/80/80-5100-00.jpg

Jamma pandora's pinout:

http://www.ukvac.com/forum/uploads/2303/pndora.png

Jamma pinout: http://www.coinplaysa.com/images/Gamma.jpg

Jamma adpater:

http://www.jamma-nation-x.com/jammax/images/sales/arcade-acc/atlas11-1.jpg

Pandora's box 3 Rocky:

http://img-fotki.yandex.ru/get/45886/28883869.1eeaf/0_6ec1b9_8142a1a9_orig

Pandra's box 3 original:

http://g02.a.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1EKvdJVXXXXbaXXXXq6xXFXXXp/New-Arrival-Pandora-s-Box-3-font-b-Jamma-b-font-Multi-Game-font-b-Board.jpg

Pandora's box 3 board:

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20150919/a7582f63a760c68b7286a3b47a15896f.jpg

VGA pinout: http://cfile10.uf.tistory.com/image/25408D4354C5B228027FF4

Arcade buttons (yellow and red):

http://cooking-hacks.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/Arcade_button.png

Arcade button blue:

http://cdn1.bigcommerce.com/server6200/ajh2rr5h/products/436/images/4707/HP_IPB_14_Blue__06753.1404898929.1280.1280.jpg?c=2

Joystick: http://www.jetonsistemleri.com/wp-content/uploads/atari-kolu.jpg

pullup resistor:

https://cdn.sparkfun.com/assets/6/f/b/c/7/511568b6ce395f1b40000000.jpg


40

https://web.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10154011751672154.1073741848.576842153&type=1&l=57f108a441

https://web.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10154011751672154.1073741848.576842153&type=1&l=57f108a441

https://youtu.be/vYNig6xXnPw

mailto:[email protected]

https://na.suzohapp.com/images/80/80-5100-00.jpg

https://na.suzohapp.com/images/80/80-5100-00.jpg



http://www.coinplaysa.com/images/Gamma.jpg

http://www.coinplaysa.com/images/Gamma.jpg











http://cfile10.uf.tistory.com/image/25408D4354C5B228027FF4

http://cfile10.uf.tistory.com/image/25408D4354C5B228027FF4






http://www.jetonsistemleri.com/wp-content/uploads/atari-kolu.jpg

http://www.jetonsistemleri.com/wp-content/uploads/atari-kolu.jpg




Pandora's box power supply:

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NjAwWDYwMA==/z/278AAOSwrklVUbat/$_1.JPG

ATX power supply:

http://www.coreuno.com/imagenes/1378923224_544566276_1-Fotos-de--Fuentes-de-poder-para-PC-de-350-hasta-500-watts-tel-53545714.jpg

PAM8403 board:

https://ecs7.tokopedia.net/img/product-1/2015/11/2/2405192/2405192_78290318-59ee-4400-b3c8-1c06f5e968fd.jpg

Speaker 4 ohm: https://cdn-shop.adafruit.com/970x728/1314-03.jpg

Glue gun:

http://images.beatsons.co.uk/images/products/zoom/1350492376-24164100.jpg

Car chrome strip:

http://g04.a.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1JOTOLXXXXXaqXpXXq6xXFXXXm/New-DIY-30mm-2-5m-Exterior-Car-font-b-Chrome-b-font-Adhesive-Strip-font-b.jpg

Wood adhesive film:

http://g02.a.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1MUZ3JpXXXXX7XFXXq6xXFXXXP/5Meters-Black-Wood-Grain-Self-Adhesive-Sticker-PVC-Waterproof-Film-Kitchen-Wall-Stickers-Cabinet-Wardrobe-Furniture.jpg

Dremel: http://www.bono-naradi.cz/images/big/dremel/dremel-3000jf.jpg

wall forming fastener:

http://www.signorimirko.com/gallery/108/cover_b.jpg

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BWF_U6bHQeE/UbUskYb7bjI/AAAAAAAAANM/Kzj673s3N3s/s1600/%E7%9B%AE%E9%8C%84%E6%A8%A1%E6%9D%BF.jpg

led stripes:

http://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j00hBFTlVqbALok/Flexible-Top-LED-Strips-FL-F5060W15F12-12-.jpg

https://d114hh0cykhyb0.cloudfront.net/images/uploads/WFLS-X3-LIGHT-STRIP-5.jpg

Carbid cutter:

http://i00.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v0/32269529254_1/6pcs-HSS-font-b-Carbide-b-font-font-b-Burr-b-font-Bit-Rotary-Cutter-Files.jpg


41









https://cdn-shop.adafruit.com/970x728/1314-03.jpg

https://cdn-shop.adafruit.com/970x728/1314-03.jpg










http://www.bono-naradi.cz/images/big/dremel/dremel-3000jf.jpg

http://www.bono-naradi.cz/images/big/dremel/dremel-3000jf.jpg















Holesaw: http://i00.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v0/931875974/Free-shipping-10-PCS-Set-Diamond-Coated-Drill-accessories-Bits-Hole-Saw-Glass-Granite-Cutter-opener.jpg

Faston: http://tecnovoz.es/imagenes/articulos/1070311B1000Z.jpg

http://www.marconautica.com/barca/3513-large_default/faston-maschiofemmina-25-6-mm.jpg

Fuse holder

https://dh778tpvmt77t.cloudfront.net/images/products/5063.jpg

Switch with 220V plug and fuse holder:

https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1PbnIMVXXXXbaXFXXq6xXFXXXd/NEW-HIGH-QUALITY-Red-Light-Power-Rocker-Switch-Fused-IEC-320-C14-Inlet-Power-Socket-font.jpg

Germany plug with switches

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/5-x-Schuko-Germany-Type-F-Rewireable-Power-Plug-250V-16-Amp-W-LED-Indicator-Switch/32488259801.html?spm=2114.01010208.8.4.GoHLYy

Authenticity I’m real or I’m a fake? Check and compare the MD5 code with the code found on my download site :)

MD5 calculator link http://onlinemd5.com/


42

http://i00.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v0/931875974/Free-shipping-10-PCS-Set-Diamond-Coated-Drill-accessories-Bits-Hole-Saw-Glass-Granite-Cutter-opener.jpg



http://tecnovoz.es/imagenes/articulos/1070311B1000Z.jpg

http://tecnovoz.es/imagenes/articulos/1070311B1000Z.jpg



https://dh778tpvmt77t.cloudfront.net/images/products/5063.jpg





http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41CecjJE81L.jpg






http://onlinemd5.com/


the adventures of a bartop arcade v 1 -...

Documents