0

1

Welcome to the Attire

Club!

Dear elegantologist,

It might sound strange to be called an “elegantologist”, as

many people do not know what that word actually means.

That’s because this word doesn’t actually exist. It was

invented by French novelist and writer Honoré de

Balzac, who wanted to create a term to describe a man

who is interested in elegant living.

And, since you are reading this letter, you are an

elegantologist. Elegance, we believe, does not reside only

in clothes and accessories; it is something that can be part

of any aspect of your life. This is the reason why we

2

created the Attire Club concept: to deliver a full

experience to the modern gentleman. Being a Man (with

an intentional capital “m”) is a choice and can be easily

cultivated. Being a Man means having attitude and

attitude comes from within. If you feel good, you look

good. And sometimes, looking good can make you feel

good.

In our vision, having a sense of style does not mean

abiding to a standard you don’t believe in, but expressing

and developing your own way. Style, however you want to

define it, is something personal and not something that is

dictated. Style is the way you do things, not the way

someone else does them. This is why our concept is to

offer you style guides and fashion inspiration that are

general and can be applied to any taste and way of life.

The men’s fashion world needs a reboot and while we are

launching the new wave, it’s up to all of us to contribute:

from the beginners to the experts, from those who can

spend a little to those who can spend fortunes, and from

the worker to the musician. Wherever you are in life, if

3

you believe that elegance comes from within and that

style is an expression of originality, you are part of the

Attire Club.

At the beginning of the 21st century, we can’t deny that

things are not connected: everything in life is connected

to something. Just imagine: the way you sleep can affect

your mood and posture, which is why you should sleep in

the right conditions; the music you listen to or movies

you watch influence your mood and therefore, your

relations with others. These are the things we like to call

“metafashion”. Any act that you do before or after

dressing up, whether it’s taking a shower or taking a walk:

that’s metafashion.

The reason someone should look their best, given that

real beauty comes from the inside, is because looking

well does not only make you feel good, but the way you

look is an expression of who you are. Therefore, using

clothes as a mean of expression will place you in a state of

4

harmony with yourself. The way we look is the first thing

someone sees when they first meet us. Your look is a way

of talking without actually speaking.

In the modern world, style can be found anywhere and

can be expressed through everything, which is why we are

fans of finding new ways to incorporate beauty in our

lives, whether these are technology and devices, art forms

or even astronomy and sports. The time has come to

build a new culture of style: one that matches the new

world we live in! Welcome aboard!

Fraquoh and Franchomme

5

General style ‘rules’

A man’s wardrobe needs to be similar to a symphonic

orchestra. Every element needs to have a function and

the conductor must know with precision when and how

to make use of it in order to express himself the best and

get the best effect.

This is why you need to learn the characteristics, we will

begin with the basic ones, any piece of clothing must

have.

These are: shape, cut and fabric.

For example, the right shape means that dress shirt

should look like a dress shirt, and not like a sack. Sacks

are supposed to looks like sacks, not clothes.

The cut refers to the way the piece is constructed. You

will notice the difference between a carefully-crafted piece

and one that is not cut very well when you wear it. Well-

cut clothes frame your body better and align with the

wearer’s natural shape.

6

Thirdly, we will break down fabrics just a little. The

fabrics you are wearing should be natural, unless they

have a purpose that is best fulfilled by synthetic fibers

(this case usually appears in the case of sports gear).

Good fabrics make the wearer feel comfortable and

should be in a way a second skin. It’s not great to get

itches, irritations and even to get electrocuted by your

own clothes. Being comfortable will deeply impact the

way you feel and see the world around you.

There are many types of fabrics and usually they go best

with different occasions. Smooth, fine fabrics are perfect

for formal occasions, while stronger, more versatile

fabrics, such as cotton are more appropriate for casual

settings.

When you are reconstructing your wardrobe, you should

keep in mind that you need to have clothes for all

occasions: it’s useless to have a lot of tuxedos and formal

suits if you don’t have anything to wear when need to go

in the woods.

7

Accessories are a great way to express who you are, and

to add a twist to any outfit. It’s useful to have ties, bow

ties, cufflinks, pocket squares, watches and other pieces in

your wardrobe. Accessories can really make or break an

outfit, regardless if it’s formal or casual, so make sure to

always wear the appropriate ones. If you are not sure, just

say “no”. You don’t have to have all types of accessories,

simply choose what types you like and feel that represent

yourself, but we recommend that you get out of your

comfort zone every so often and try something new.

PATTERNS, PRINTS AND TEXTURES

If the old world thought of patterns, prints and textures as

something reserved for women, that is not the case

anymore. If some men find that wearing patterns is quite

a challenge (more mentally than physically), there is one

question that keeps on rising: How to mix striped shirts

with striped ties?

It is really important to know the rule of how to properly

do this, as otherwise you risk looking like an optical

8

illusion! Here’s how it’s done: If one piece comes in thick

stripes, the other one must come in thin stripes and the

other way around! This rule also applies for any other

pattern: a bold, rough pattern goes with a soft, smaller

one! You can mute down a pattern by adding a piece in a

neutral color over it. For example, a floral shirt can be

toned down with a brown vest.

If you want to stand out by wearing patterns, you can

choose patterns that use contrasting colors like blue and

orange, but if you don’t want to stand out because of your

patterns, choose a more subtle one: a pattern made out of

colors that are close to each other on the color wheel,

about which you can read in the next chapter.

HOW TO LAYER CLOTHES

Layering your clothing is a great way to ensure your

comfort and style when it comes to both everyday casual

outfits and formal wear. We have put together a few tips

you can follow when you are putting an outfit together.

9

In our opinion, having multiple layers of clothing is

something that really improves your appearance, as

adding layers of different clothes creates visual interest.

So, if you want to give a layered outfit a shot, here are a

few guidelines you can follow:

1. Establish the main piece and color. When it comes to

putting any outfit together, you have to have a main piece

that will be star. All other pieces should be supporting the

main actor. Usually the main piece is something in a bold

color, bold pattern or print. Make sure you don’t wear

two main pieces, it will look unbalanced. After you have

established the main piece, look for other pieces that go

with it, whether it’s in terms of color, shape, pattern or

any other factor. It’s all about finding the connection!

2. The first layers should be the thinnest layer. Go from

thin to thick: start with a shirt, add a vest and only then

the jacket. This seems obvious, but we have seen people

not following this rule. Why this is important is because,

not only it establishes an organic depth of field in the

outfit you are creating, but it also helps you keep your

body at a proper temperature. A vest and a jacket are

10

better than just a big sweater; they keep your body at a

right temperature better. Also, if you get too hot, you can

take one layer off and still look well.

3. No matter how many layers you have on you, comfort

is the rule. Even if you have two layers or seven (what

would that look like though?), you should be

comfortable. Not being able to move or feeling restrained

is something that needs to be remedied immediately.

4. Each layer should go on its own. We want you to wear

fine pieces that are strong in their own, but go great

together as well. Also, each layer should have its function.

5. Keep the patterns in a line. If you decide to wear

patterns, place them gradually on your body. Don’t mix

them at random or have neutrals between them. Think of

the outfit as of an in-depth gradient. Whether you go

from the outside to the inside or the other way around,

you should go gradually from one pattern to the other.

6. Do accessories count as layers too? We can debate

this, but we think accessories can also be considered

11

layers to a certain regard. Add a nice watch and a nice

pair of shoes a great pair of socks, and don’t leave any

part of your body unattended. Accessories that count as

layers are also scarves or belts.

7. Don’t use clothes to hide parts of your body you don’t

like. As we said, make sure each piece is great in its own

way; and emphasizes the good parts rather than

camouflaging the not-so-good-ones. The difference is that

if you know you are hiding something, you will be aware

of it, rather than being happy that you are pointing out

the good parts!

12

A look at colors

You don’t need to be a designer or a professional stylist

to learn a few basic rules when it comes to choosing the

colors of your clothes! Paying attention to a few details

will change the way you see clothes forever.

First of all, what you need to know is that there are colors

that are called "neutrals" which basically go with any other

color. Neutral colors are: black, white, beige, navy, gray,

brown and khaki. The only two neutral colors that go

together are black and white.

Generally, these colors can be matched with any other

colors: red, orange, blue, teal, yellow etc., it’s up to you!!

When it comes to accessorizing, you need to know that

gold and silver are both neutrals, so they can be worn

together! It’s not the 70s anymore!

Going more in-depth, we can talk about how you can

make colors go together! First of all, you might want to

wear a maximum of three colors. If you wear more, you

13

might be hard on the eye, and if you only wear one, you

might look boring. If you choose to wear three colors,

here’s how you can do it:

► Choose a color as your most important color. This

color will occupy the largest area of your outfit. Choose a

second and a third color. The third color is usually a

color which contrasts more with the primary and

secondary colors, and therefore, it should be used with

moderation. Here’s how to find out which color goes with

which:

► You can make an analog color combination: analog

colors are colors that are near one from the other on the

color wheel (picture). For example, red and orange.

14

► You can make use of complementary colors.

Complementary colors are colors that are on opposite

sides one from the other on the color wheel, for example

yellow and violet.

► Make use of a split complementary colors scheme.

Split complementary is a color and the analog colors to its

complement color. Using split complementary colors can

15

give you an outfit with a high degree of contrast, yet still

not as extreme as a real complementary color would. For

example yellow, violet and blue are split complementary

colors.

► Another way to combine colors is to use triad colors.

Triad colors are three hues equidistant on the color

wheel. When you want an outfit that is colorful and still

balanced, a triad color scheme might be the way to go.

For example, blue, violet and yellow are triad colors.

16

CHOOSING THE COLORS OF YOUR CLOTHES

ACCORDING TO YOUR SKIN TONE

Have you ever wondered what colors go best with your

skin tone? Of course, this is a thing that is personal and

relative, as the best clothes for you are the ones you like.

But some colors/shades of colors go better with different

skin tones. The colors we wear can make us look tan or

pale. Colors can help hide our flaws or make them more

noticeable.

Of course, we encourage you to wear the clothes you like,

because with the right attitude, you can make anything

work. Our tips are just a little orientation in case you

don’t actually know what goes best and want to take your

skin tone as reference.

Choosing the colors of your clothes according to your

skin tone can be helpful when you don’t know what to

wear or want to try something new.

First of all, what you need to do is to determine your skin

tone. There are more ways to describe skin tones. A first

17

classification is warm - cool and sometimes you will find

“neutral“.

It’s important to keep in mind that anybody can be a

neutral, regardless of the color of your skin. A “neutral”

person is a person on whom most colors look well. Some

people are like that, others are not.

This being said, we need to say that “neutral” as a term

does not refer to a standard of color to which all other

colors relate to.

Next, you need to notice whether you have a warm or a

cool skin tone. The most recommended trick is to put a

golden jewel or fabric next to your skin and then a silver

one and see which one looks best. If gold flattens your

skin tone, then you probably are a warm type, and if

silver flattens your skin tone, you probably have a cool

skin tone. This however, can be a little hard to establish.

18

Also, you can check your veins: If they’re blue, then

you’re a cool skin tone. If they’re green, and you’ve got

yellow undertones, then you a warm skin tone.

Warm toned skin tends to have a golden or apricot

undertone. People with this skin tone tend to have hair

with hints of orange, yellow, red or gold. The eye color

tends to be amber, dark brown, hazel, or green.

Cool skin tones are the most common skin tones to have,

and the easiest to dress. Cool toned skin has a pink or

rosy undertone. Cool tones’ hair often contains blue,

blue-violet, silver, drab, and ash undertones. The eye

color tends to be light blue, gray-green, blue-green,

turquoise, gray-blue, black or cool brown.

There are several scales in the scientific world on which

you can relate, such as the Fitzpatrick scale, which you

can see in the picture.

19

This scale puts all skin tones into 6 large categories,

ranging from pale to dark. Number one is very light,

while number six is the darkest.

Another classification, going deeper than just warm-cool

is spring-summer-autumn-winter. The difference between

the Fitzpatrick scale and the ‘season’ scale is that the

‘seasons’ scale does not measure how dark or pale you

are, it is based on your undertones and establishes if you

are a warm type or a cool type.

Summer and winter are cool skin tones, while spring and

autumn are warm ones. We will break each down and

note what colors flatter each type best.

20

First of all, there are a few colors that go with all skin

tones: bright red, pale pink, eggplant and teal.

Now, let’s get to the ‘seasons’:

Summer is one of the two cool tones. Summer tones

have blue, red or pink undertones. If you are a summer

tone, you should wear lilacs and pale blues and should

choose pastels and soft neutrals with rose undertones.

Summers differ from Winters in that their skin tends to

contrast gently with their hair and eye color, and

therefore seem softer and less intense. This is why

Summers should wear softer colors. Cool-toned people

can pull off white, ruby, sapphire and aquatic blues very

well. Generally, cool tones go better with the blue half of

the spectrum. Their metal colors are silver and white

gold.

Winter is the second cool tone. Winters have blue, red

or pink undertones. Their skin can be pale white, olive

(Mediterranean or Asian), or dark (Black). A person who

is a Winter should wear colors that have blue undertones.

21

Winters should wear colors that are sharp for example

stark whites, black, navy blue, red with pink undertones.

Silver and grey work good on Winters as well. Winters

differ from Summers in that their skin tends to contrast

dramatically with their hair and eye color, and therefore

seem more intense, so they can wear clothes with high

contrasts. Best metals for winters are silver or platinum.

Spring is one of the two warm skin tones. Springs usually

have golden undertones and are usually creamy white or

peach. Spring people generally have straw-colored or

strawberry red hair, freckles, rosy cheeks, and blue or

green eyes. The main difference between Spring and

Autumn color palette is that the Spring’s colors are based

on yellow, in contrast with Autumn’s colors which are

based on deep gold. This is why Springs should wear

colors that have yellow undertones. Springs look best in

warm orange-based colors like peach, ochre, and coral in

chalky shades.

Autumn is the second warm type. Autumn types have

golden, warm or yellow undertones. Autumns should

wear colors that have yellow undertones. Usually, the

22

autumn colors are warm, soft, and deep. Some of the

Autumn colors are coffee, caramel, beige, tomato red,

and green. Autumns should avoid colors with blue tones,

like navy or indigo. Warm skin tones go great with yellow

too! Also, colors like olive, moss or jade enhance your

beauty. Warm tones go better with the yellow half of the

spectrum. For autumns, in terms of metals, gold, bronze

or copper work best.

In case this is a little much, we can make it shorter by

saying that light skin tones look better in dark colors,

medium skin tones look best with the primary colors and

darker skin tones pull off whites and pale colors quite

well.

23

The Suit

Every man needs to have at least one suit! One suit is

better than no suit! The male suit is the one piece of

clothing that has been around for a very long time and

remained unchanged. A good suit can go a long way and

you can wear it at practically any occasion needed! A fine

tailored suit can be worn at a job interview, at work, at the

theater, when going out or wherever you can think of! It

can also be broken down into pieces: one day you might

want to wear just the jacket, or the pants!

If you decide to get one suit, it does not necessarily need

to be a black suit; it can be a more casual looking suit,

like blue, grey or beige. We recommend that unless you

have a ton of suits, you should keep it in a neutral color,

which you can mix with a colorful shirt or tie or both!

When you buy a suit, you might want to choose a good

fabric, even though you might find it to be more

expensive. Wool is the best fabric out there, but if you

can’t afford a wool one, you can choose another fabric, as

24

long as you keep in mind that there are other important

factors that make a good suit.

A right suit needs to have proper sleeves. Try it on and

let your arms hang on your sides, your sleeves should end

where your hand meets your wrist.

The sleeves of the shirt should be one-quarter longer

than the jacket ones.

When it comes to buttons, we can say that you might

want to choose a one or two-button jacket. One-button

jackets fit better on men with a slimmer physique.

When it comes to the pants, try putting a finger in your

pants, if you can do that, your pants are ok. Not more

fingers, not less!

You can rarely go wrong with a white shirt or a shirt with

small stripes or checkers. Also, your tie should go with

your shirt, they must not necessarily match.

When it comes to maintaining a suit, dry clean it as

infrequently as possible. This will maximize the

preservation of the fabric’s strength. If you need, have it

25

professionally steam-pressed or, and hang it in the shower

with the door closed in case of emergency.

ESSENTIAL SUIT RULES

1. The width of your lapel should be the same size as the

width of your tie. While you might not be able to get

them exactly the same size, you can approximate and

have them rather similar. This will make your look more

balanced and harmonious, compared to what it would

look like if your tie was a lot wider or narrower than your

lapel. Generally, thin lapels are more modern, while

wider lapels are more classic. This being said, the best

way to choose your tie is to make it proportionate to your

whole body.

2. Choosing to wear a pocket square is a great idea which

we encourage. However, a pocket square should not

match your tie in either fabric or tie. Wearing a pocket

square is a great idea to funk out an outfit, even a

conservative one, and still look serious and professional.

26

3. The number one thing you should make sure looks

well when you are trying a suit on, are the shoulders. If

they do not match your shoulders well and stay bulky or

are too tight, you need to change the jacket.

4. When you keep your jacket buttoned, you should be

able to slip your hand between your jacket and your

chest. It should feel snug, but it should also have some

room to move.

5. When you are sitting down, always unbutton your suit.

Always, in any situation, regardless if the occasion is

causal or formal, do not sit down with your suit buttoned.

Keeping it unbuttoned, you risk ruining it.

6. If you wish to have a more casual, youthful look, pick

out a single-button peak-lapel jacket. These jackets really

look different from other types of jackets and can give

you a whole different look.

7. In case you are wearing a vest, leave the lowest button

open. The same rule applies to the jacket as well. This

being said, the rule is more flexible when it comes to

vests. Some men button all their buttons and still pull a

27

great look off. A vest is also very practical and functional,

as it can add a layer of warmth to your outfit and keep

you warm on cooler days.

8. The cuffs of your shirt sleeves should be exposed only

about 1/2 inch / 1,30 cm. For a more balanced, elegant

look, match the visible cuff to the amount of visible collar

from the back of your neck.

9. Generally, your tie should be darker than the dress

shirt you are wearing. However, if you break this rule

consciously, we encourage you to do so.

10. Your jacket should be long enough to cover your

zipper and tush. Checking this is also a good way to

determine if a jacket fits well.

11. Your pants should begin at your waist and not at your

hips. Also, if your pants are having pleats, you should not

go for more than one.

12. Your shoes and belt should always match. And in this

case, we really mean they should be the same color.

28

13. In general, suits are made out of wool. Of course,

there are exceptions and sometimes they are of wool

mixed with cashmere. Sometimes suits are made just out

of cashmere. But we would recommend going with the

wool.

14. To test a suit’s strength, you need to take a piece of

cloth and squeeze it. If it bounces back quickly and with

little wrinkles, then it means it’s a good quality. If it has

structure, then it’s also a good sign. Tailors call this

having “guts”. Suits also have a super number. The super

number is an indicator of the suit’s fineness. If the

number is high, the fabric is thinner and better. Rule: the

bigger the number, the smoother and silkier the cloth.

Some suits have for example 150. If you find a suit that

has 180, it’s very good (but it will also be expensive).

15. Make sure your pants cover half of your shoes.

29

HOW YOUR SHIRTS SHOULD FIT

The button-up shirt is a

must-have in any man’s

wardrobe. A good shirt

has the following

characteristics: it is simple,

functional, and versatile

and gives any man an

edge! This being said,

many men have trouble

choosing the right shirts

for themselves, but we

want to bring some light

on the matter and spread

the thick clouds of

confusion.

We have broken the guide down into sections, so that

you can memorize it better and make the best of it! We’ll

start with the cut and end with general tips and tricks!

This Simon + Simon shirt is a good example of how a shirt should fit: not too tight, but not too loose.

30

Cut

Traditional fit shirts are usually cut more like a square, or

a box if you will, and are rather standard-looking.

Regular fit shirts are usually similar to traditional fit shirts,

just that the sides are more tapered, making them frame

your body better.

Slim fit shirts are usually tailored in the chest, waist and

arms for a leaner, sharper look. This has nothing to do

with being “slim” as opposed to “large”. It simply means

that is it very tailored on your silhouette. There are also

“extra slim” shirts, which are a more extreme version of

slim fit shirts.

These are the main types of cuts, and you will sometimes

find them under another terminology, but the concept is

basically the same.

31

Length and sizes

Shirts are usually supposed to be tucked in your pants, so

the lower part

won’t be visible

most of the

time. It is

supposed to be

long enough so

that it doesn’t

come out of

your pants when

you move, but it

should be short

enough so that it does not feel like a second pair of pants.

If you decide on wearing a more casual shirt and keep it

untucked, it should not go lower than the bottom part of

your pants’ zipper.

The problem with shirts is that most guys buy shirts that

are made in standard sizes, thought to fit the majority of

the population. This can be an issue, as if a shirt is

tailored to fit a very wide range of men, it means that it

32

does not fit almost anyone perfectly and we are striving

for perfection!

Next, we focus on what you should know about the body,

the waist, the sleeves, the neck, the collar and the pockets

of a shirt. Once you get what it is you should be looking

for, the search for the right shirt will be done from

instinct.

Body

A good shirt should frame your body but it should not be

skin tight. To see if it’s too loose or too tight, try pinching

your shirt at any point you wish. You should be able to

pin about 1-3 inches / 2,5- 7,6 cm of fabric from your

shirt. If you can pull more, it means that your shirt might

be just too big, while anything tighter might make you

very uncomfortable when pinching.

33

The armholes should be as high as they can go, but they

should not cut into your armpit or cause any discomfort.

Also, try to lift your arms in order to test the armholes.

You need to be able to make any movement in a shirt!

When it comes to the shoulders, the seams of the

shoulder should simply hug your shoulders and lay at the

corner of your shoulder joint.

Waist

A lot of shirts are too full around the waist, so make sure

that when you sit down you don’t feel any discomfort or

that the fabric doesn’t simply add around in a bulky,

unpleasant matter. If you can’t find a shirt that meets all

these criteria, you can always buy one that is a little bigger

and have a tailor change it a little, according to your body.

34

Sleeves

Proper sleeves

should be slim,

so that you

avoid billowing,

but they

shouldn’t be

skin tight either.

Try testing the

tightness of a

shirt by bending

your arm. If

you feel like

the shirt is going to crack, then you are wearing a shirt

that is too tight.

In terms of length, the cuff is supposed to end 1 inch /

2,5 cm past your wrist or where your wrist meets your

palm. Make sure that you can’t pinch more than 1 inch /

2,5 cm of fabric near the cuff when your arms are

hanging. This extra fabric is useful because it allows you

A shirt that fits well needs to fit well on all levels.

35

to bend your arms comfortably. The cuff should be tight

enough not to move down your hand, but you should still

be able to feel comfortable.

Neck and collar

When your shirt is

buttoned all the way to

the top, there should be

enough space for you to

slip your index and

middle fingers between

your neck and the collar.

This should be

comfortable and you

should not feel that your fingers are being pressed tightly

against your neck. Remember that if the collar fits this

way before you wash it, it might be too small for your

neck, as shirt collars tend to shrink about 1/2 inch / 1,27

cm after washing. This is why you should go up half an

36

inch in size. A shirt that is too tight from the start will not

be wearable.

Normally, the collar’s size should be proportionate to the

size of the wearer’s head. A good collar should be big

enough to make proper room for a tie. Some shirts have

smaller collars, but these are thought to be worn with

similarly tailored suits, which play with proportions.

Pockets

When it comes to pockets, look at their number! Guess

what: Zero is the right way to go! A good dress shirt

should have no pockets! Shirts that have only one pocket

are considered just a little more formal than those that

have two pockets. Shirts that are supposed to be worn

with a vest or with suspenders should have no pockets. If

they do, your chest might look a little bulky, and not in a

good way! Please note that shirts with pockets are not

work-appropriate, they are for extremely casual occasions

only! The only way pockets on a shirt can be elegant is

37

when they have a function and a purpose (for example

military men’s shirts sometimes have pockets, air pilots

also have shirts with pockets and so on).

Having a well-fitted shirt is very important, regardless of

your size or body frame. Also, as an additional tip, if you

want your shirts to last longer, you should opt for the

right undershirt! Doing so, you will be able to save a lot of

money and time! You should also know that most dress

shirts are usually sold by neck size and sleeve length.

To get the best results, make sure that the shirt you are

wearing is properly ironed!

Most guys will need to have their shirts modified by a

tailor in one way or another, but this is definitely worth it,

as good shirt can improve your look by a lot and go a

long way in what’s regarding your attitude and feelings

about yourself! A right-fitting shirt will make you feel like

you’re the boss!

38

PANTS PLANET

Going a little lower, we will continue by looking at some

short tips on how your pants should fit.

• Try to buy pants that fit you right from the start! It is

not recommended to alter pants because after tailoring

them, they might not resemble the original pants.

• Your pant size is the same as your waist size. So, if you

have a 35" waist, you are a 35!

• The crotch needs to be where your crotch is, not lower

and not higher (if that’s possible).

• One pleat at the bottom is enough. None is alright too,

for more casual and modern pants!

• Your socks are should not show when you are walking.

• Men should wear their pants slightly above or under

their hips. Wearing pants lower normally conveys a

younger and more modern feel while wearing them too

high looks like... (We couldn’t find the right word)!

39

• When it comes to buttons or zippers, there’s not much

to say except that they need to work!

THE BUTTONS RULE

Many men ask the question regarding the buttons of a

suit jacket: should you unbutton, one button or two, what

is the right way to go?

It seems that the rule of having an open button first came

to be around in the 1900s in England. At that time, suits

were quite new, so their structure was not as defined as it

is today. Apparently, King Edward VII was rather a larger

guy and couldn’t close all the buttons of his jacket, so he

left the lower button open. Of course, everyone started to

follow the trend of the king; not so much because they

thought it was trendy, but because they didn’t want to

offend him. This “fashion” became later incorporated in

the way suits were built, so it’s not just a fad to follow this

40

rule, it’s a way to make sure that the suit you bought looks

it’s best.

Today’s suits are created with the idea in mind that when

having a button left open, it ensures proper fit and drape

of the jacket.

Before explaining which buttons you need to open

depending on the type of jacket you are wearing, we need

to remind you that the suit needs to be buttoned when

you stand, and completely unbuttoned when you sit.

So, here are the types of jackets there are and the way you

should consider to open/close your buttons.

41

One button jackets

A one button jacket

One button jackets are derived from tuxedos and give

you a more elegant feel. They emphasize your shoulders,

but because of the low positioning of the button, they also

draw attention your waist.

The rule regarding these jackets is easy: when standing

close it, and unfasten the button when sitting down. One

button, one option.

42

Two button jackets

A two button jacket

Jackets with two buttons are very wide-spread and are

very modern. When you are wearing a two button jacket,

you should keep the upper button fastened, while the

lower button should remain unbuttoned.

43

Three button jackets

A three button jacket

When it comes to three button suits, you have more

options. You can button the two upper buttons and leave

the lower one unfastened. On suits that have a flat lapel, it

generally looks better to button the two upper buttons.

But if the lapel has a softer roll that extends after the first

button, you should only fasten the center button.

44

More than three buttons

If you have a jacket that has more than three buttons, it’s

probably because you are making a fashion statement.

Many advisers would not recommend them, but we think

they’re amazing. Jackets with more than three buttons are

definitely for someone who is not afraid to stand out and

draw attention, so if you don’t want this, you should

probably stick to a more classic jacket. However, if you

choose to wear a multi-button jacket, you should leave the

bottom button undone.

Double-breasted jackets

All the jackets we mentioned until now are, of course,

single-breasted jackets. When it comes to double-

breasted jackets, the rule is very simple: button all the

buttons besides the bottom one. But this rule is also not

mandatory.

What we need to say about double-breasted jackets is that

you need to pay attention to the button configuration.

45

Button configurations are, for example: 6×2, 6×1, 4×2,

4×1 etc. What this means is: the first number is the

number of buttons the jacket has and the second number

is the number of buttons that are buttoned.

4×2 is versatile and very elegant, 4×1 might magnify your

midsection while 2×1 was fashionable around 30 years

ago.

A double breasted jacket with the configuration 6×2

So, whatever you like, now you know the whole thing!

The rules are actually easy to follow and make a big

46

impact. Now, if you want to break the rules, it’s up to

you! Or, who knows, you might invent a new one.

47

The Tie

HOW TO CHOOSE A GOOD TIE

If there is one thing that is globally associated with men

and style, that is the tie. The tie is the thing

that confers man elegance. It’s important to

make the best of your ties because and wear

them with pride. Ties can be an indicator of

who you are and what your interests are,

they can speak about your personality and

convey messages you want to convey. This is

why picking the right tie is probably one of the most

important steps of wearing a tie!

Ties and fabrics

When we are talking about ties and the fabrics they are

made of, we need to talk about understanding the

differences between the textures of ties. Most ties are

48

made of a printed or woven silk. A woven silk, as it has

more texture, will usually be less formal, though satin is

the most formal silk – as it is the shiniest (don’t forget, the

shinier the fabric, the dressier it is)! Woven silk comes in

lots of different variations, but the only alternative you

really need to be aware of is grenadine, which is a thicker

weave – and comes in large and small knots. Then comes

knitted silk, which is a yet chunkier texture. You will find

it most in thin, squared-end ties.

Then, besides silk, there is wool, linen and mixes of the

two with silk. Although the weave may be somewhat finer

than a knitted silk, for example, any wool or linen tie is

more casual than any silk one, because of its matte

texture. The same goes for madder.

What you should keep in mind is that a silk mix is the

best choice (the heavier and tighter the silk fabric is, the

better), followed by cashmere and chunky wool.

49

Ties and collars

Different collars are appropriate for different tie knot

types, which is why you should be paying attention the

collar of the shirt you are wearing in relation to the tie

you want to put on. So, for example if you wear a shirt

that has a spread collar, you should match it with a wider

tie and a bigger knot. Button down collars and point-

collars usually go with any other tie knot type, although

button-down collars look better with thinner ties and

smaller knots.

Ties and size

One thing that is really important when it comes to ties is

the length of the tie: a tie should always hit right the line

of your belt, not lower, not higher. Most ties are 57

inches long, that is about 145 cm. Going shorter or

longer, you might have problems when tying the tie.

In terms of width, we can say that the most modern ties

today measures 2.5 inches, that is 6.3 cm. Ties that are

50

wider than that are seen as wide and ties that are narrower

as seen as skinny.

But, ties also need to match the size of your body: men

with a larger body frame might want to wear wider ties,

while men with thinner body frame might prefer to go

with a skinny tie or a thinner one.

Ties and colors

Choosing the color of your tie and making it match your

suit and shirt might be tricky, but there are a few simple

combinations you can keep in mind. If you want to go for

more complex combos, you can check the chapter about

colors.

It’s very important to know that you can wear a tie that

has a pattern, like stripes with a shirt that has patterns.

51

Ties and tie bar

Bar ties (also called tie clips) do not only fasten your tie,

they also fasten your tie to the placket of your shirt! Also,

what you need to know is that a bar tie must not be wider

than your tie, that’s a big no-no!

Note that the tie clip is traditionally placed between the

fourth and fifth button of the shirt placket, midway

between the pectoral and abdominal muscles.

In the end, we can say that there are more ways to wear a

tie. You can tuck it, for example, between your third and

fourth buttons (something like Frank Sinatra in “From

Here to Eternity”).

HOW TO MATCH YOUR TIE TO YOUR SHIRT

When it comes to dressing up, even though men’s

fashion has really taken off lately, men have fewer options

than women. Maybe it’s because men usually wear shirts

and ties when they want to dress up, and the suit is an

52

outfit that can only go so far, compared to gowns and

other women’s clothes, for example. This is why wearing

a shirt and tie that make a statement about yourself is very

important.

You can really express your personality through the tie

and shirt you are wearing. Moreover, you can express it

through the combination of tie and shirt you wear you

choose to make.

Great ties by Peter Field

We have some guidelines for you, which are not

unbreakable rules, but are sure to help. We want you to

53

create your own style, and not blindly follow some rules,

invented by… who?

Accessories such as ties are a great way to be creative and

not too ostentatious. Here are some short but useful tips

you can follow to match your tie to your shirt and look

great:

1. If you want a more conservative look, your tie should

have at least one color the same as the shirt.

2. If you want to match patterns, you can do this, but the

patterns should be in different sizes.

3. For a more formal and sophisticated look, you can go

for a tie that is a solid, darker color. If you want to have a

more relaxed or creative feel, you can wear a patterned

tie or a more colorful one.

4. If you are in doubt about what shirt to wear, wear a

solid-colored shirt. To play it safer, you can go for a white

shirt, a light blue one or a dark one (such as brown) as

they go with anything. If you don’t want to be so “safe”,

54

you can mix colors using different color schemes we will

link to lower.

5. A very colorful tie you don’t want to draw attention to

can be toned down with wearing a vest.

6. Certain fabrics complement each other, others don’t.

For example, a casual shirt won’t go with a really fine silk

tie, as it will be obvious that the tie is from a different

world. Try to combine fabrics that complement each

other: a cotton shirt goes with a wool tie for example.

Dressier fabrics usually go together well.

7. Decide what is appropriate for the occasion: usually a

solid color tie on a solid color shirt is for more formal

settings, while patterned ties on solid colors go for casual

work days and patterned ties on patterned shirts is the

most casual combo.

8. Larger men go better with bigger ties, while thin men

go best (visually) with thin or skinny ties.

55

CHOOSE THE BEST TIES FOR YOUR BODY AND

FACE TYPE

Whether you wear a tie at work, on a formal occasion or

in any other place, there are a few things

you need to know. We have already

discussed how to choose the best tie. It’s

up to you what type of tie you choose, the

fabric, the pattern etc., Now we want to

discuss how to choose a tie according to

your body.

Of course, these are not unbreakable “style rules”, they

are guidelines that will give you a step forward to an

optimal look.

What we are discussing today are your body type and

your facial features. If you determine these two, you can

choose the right knot, the right color and the right length

and width of your ties.

56

Ties and body types

It’s very easy to determine what type of tie fits you best

according to your body type. Men with average bodies are

fitted best by average-size ties, both in terms of length and

width. If you are a wider guy though, you should wear a

wider tie, in order to keep a balance, while thinner men

should wear thinner ties or even skinny ties. You will look

your best if you keep the size of your tie proportional to

your body.

57

When it comes to the length of your tie, you should

know that ties come in different lengths too. Generally,

average ties will do it, only very tall or very short men

should go an extra mile finding a tie in another size. We

don’t want to give you numbers, because the best way to

see if a tie is the proper length, you need to try it on.

Even if in theory some ties go better than others, the way

it looks on your body is the best indicator.

Don’t forget the rule we keep stressing: when wearing a

tie, the tie’s tip should touch your waistline.

Ties and Facial Features

Ties are not only to be picked according to your body

type, they can be chosen according to your face too. We

will first speak about colors and then about face types and

tie knots.

What you need to know is that in order not to look

washed out, you should wear colors that contrast with the

color of your skin, the color of your hair and eyes. So, for

58

example, if you have dark hair and a darker complexion,

a bright tie will make your features pop, while a man with

a light color hair (such as blond) and a light complexion,

should opt for a darker tie to have his features placed in a

great light. Some men are a combination: their hair and

skin color contrasts. In this case, the tie should be in

contrast with your skin tone.

The knot you tie can be chosen according to your face

type. There are many face types, but they all fit in one of

the big categories.

Here are the 4 face types: which one are you? If you have

long hair, don`t forget to pull your hair back when

studying your shape.

59

If your face’s length is bigger than its width, and the line

of your cheekbones is wider than rest of your face, it

means that you have an oval face.

If the width of your cheekbones is almost equal to the

length of your face, and your forehead and chin are

tapered, you might have a round face.

In case your forehead is almost the same width as, or a

little narrower than your cheekbones, and your chin is

tapered, you probably have a heart-shape face.

If the width of your forehead, cheeks, and jawline are

approximately equal, then your face is square.

A Windsor, a Half-Windsor and a Four-In-Hand knot

Oval, square, and heart-shaped faces are best flattered by

larger knots, such as the Windsor knot. If you have a

60

longer face shape, you should choose a wider knot, such

as the Half-Windsor, the Cavendish, or the Saint

Andrew. This goes if you have a longer neck too.

If you have a round face, you should try to avoid very

small knots, as they will tend to disappear while

contrasting with your face. You can choose narrower,

longer knots, like the Four-in-Hand. These tips go for

men with wider necks too.

Now you possess a lot of tips that will sure make a

difference the next time you get dressed! You can find

out more from other AC articles. If you liked them, don’t

forget to subscribe to our site!

A QUICK LOOK AT KNIT TIES

Knit ties are in a class of their own, even though they are

part of the big category of men’s ties. What is special

about them is not only the way they are made, the way

61

they look and feel due to the

manufacturing process, but

also the fact that they are

generally square end ties. A

knit tie can add a touch of

sophistication to your

wardrobe because of its

interesting fabric and texture.

Knit ties are very versatile

themselves, but you can also

change the feel of your outfit

by changing your tie. There are many knit ties out there

on the market.

The right tie

Square end ties, also called flat-end ties are ties which

from the point of view of the design look just like a

regular tie, but instead of ending in a “sharp” tip, they end

in a straight line. Some men have issues wrapping their

heads around this idea and around the idea of wearing a

A knit tie by Salt+Dapper

62

knit tie, but there are many advantages to knit ties. Knit

ties come in cotton, wool and silk, just like any other tie.

So, if you decided to step out of the box and wear a

different tie, there are some things you should know

about these ties. Flat bottom ties became fashionable in

the 1950s and 1960 and rapidly became a popular

alternative to the classic tie. Knitted ties look great when

they are around 2 to 2.5 / 5 – 6 cm wide. You will also

find ties which are wider. These ties, which are about

3.25 inches/ 8 cm wide, are great to be worn with double

breasted suits and jackets that have wider peak lapels, as

narrow ties usually go with narrower lapels.

When you are buying a knit tie, a factor you should take

into consideration is the weave density. Pieces with a

bigger density are, as the name says, denser, while ties

with a lower weave density can even be see-through. We

would recommend that you get one with a bigger weave

density.

63

The when

Knitted ties and flat-end ties in general are on the casual

side of men’s fashion. Even if you are wearing a silk

knitted tie, it’s still considered to be very casual. If you are

wearing clothes that you feel are too formal for the

moment you are wearing them, consider wearing a knit

tie to dress down the outfit. You can change the feel of

your outfit by simply changing you ties. Say you are

wearing a causal suit with a formal tie. You can change

the whole feel of the suit, by simply changing the formal

tie with a knit tie. This way, you can easily transition from

a formal look to a look that is more appropriate for a

casual setting.

Knit ties are appropriate when going out, and other semi-

casual occasions. They are not the best choice you can

make when you are going to a job interview.

When it comes to the seasons, some say that knit ties are

to be worn only in the warm seasons. Why that is,

remains a mystery. To clarify this, we need to say that knit

ties can be worn during any season and on any day of the

64

week. If you want to use the seasons as your style

statement, you can choose to wear muted, darker shades,

such as black, brown or green during the fall and winter,

while brighter and more vivid colors, such as orange,

yellow or red during the warm seasons.

The most popular patterns knit ties have are simple

horizontal lines or polka dots. This is something you can

definitely work to your advantage, as wearing a tie with a

pattern might make you feel less worried about wearing

other patterns. Wearing a tie with a pattern will definitely

add more depth and volume to your outfit therefore

making it more visually appealing.

The how

Of course, since knit ties are casual, they

go best with casual outfits. Never wear a

knit tie with a formal suit or with shoes

that are considered to be very dressy.

Chinos, casual shirts and even jeans are

65

the things that go best with these ties. Many men choose to

wear knit ties with denim shirts, which make for a good

combination, but to be honest; we have our doubts about

denim shirts in general.

Our recommendation is to wear a knit tie with a shirt that

feels and looks a little different from the tie. If your shirt

and tie are blending, the effect created by the texture of

your tie will be diminished. Because knit ties differ from

regular ties by having a different feel and more physical

depth, these are the features you want to showcase.

Since knit ties are the perfect accessory for a casual

environment, the way you tie them is also very important.

To complement the casual fabric texture of your tie,

knots that are slightly asymmetric and casual are the best.

We think that one of the best ways to go is of course,

the Four-in-Hand.

Knit ties go great with spread collars as well as with point

collars, so you have your options laid out for you!

In short, knit ties are perfect to be worn with casual

outfits on casual occasions. They can be paired with

66

almost anything and add texture to any outfit. Knit ties

can be worn anytime, anywhere, as long as it’s not a

formal setting.

HOW TO MAINTAIN A TIE

When talking about men’s clothes it’s always talked about

how to maintain and keep your suit in its best shape.

Often, you will find posts that discuss how to keep your

shirts, shoes and other things, but what’s rarely discussed

is how to take care of a necktie. We don’t know why that

is, as a well-maintained tie can be good many years after

you bought it! And, let’s be honest, sometimes a good tie

can be quite expensive. Learning how to maintain a tie is

easy and anyone can do it!

So, here’s what you need to do and know:

One thing that you need to watch out is stains. It`s

recommended that you don`t wear your best silk tie

when you go to lunch break as it might get dirty, and silk

ties don`t do well with repeated cleanings.

67

If you do get a stain on your tie, blot the stain with cold

water. Club soda works the best! If you get grease or

something similar on your tie, sprinkle the stain with a lot

of talcum powder, as it will absorb the grease. After a few

hours, brush off what`s left.

Try not to wear the same tie two days in a row. Just like

with shoes, letting them “breathe” for at least a day helps

your ties to keep their shape and crisp.

Carefully untie the knot when you need to. Don’t pull

your tie in any weird direction, as it might stretch and go

bad. Just do what you did when you tied it, but in reverse!

Ties should be stored upright, so it would be

recommended to have a tie rack in your closet.

Keeping your ties stored like this, due to gravity they

won’t have wrinkles and the darkness of your closet will

keep the colors bright (yes, sunlight does wash away the

colors of your clothes, it happens even to the best of us).

68

Never iron a tie! If you don’t know what to do, just hang

it in the shower (don’t get it wet, just let the steam do the

work). Keep it like that for about 15 minutes.

If you do need to iron a tie, because its wrinkles are way

too deep, iron it on the part that is not visible when you

are wearing it. You’ll need a cotton cloth to lay over the

tie, for example a napkin or pillowcases are OK.

Even though most ties are dry-clean only, you should do

that as rare as you can, as the chemicals used in the

process can damage your tie too.

Well, we all apparently learned that ties are really difficult

to maintain, but in the end it’s not that hard and it’s worth

it!

69

Other Accessories

HOW TO CHOOSE ACCESSORIES

Accessories are an important part of any outfit, as they

complete any look and really make you stand out. It’s

important to know how to choose accessories that flatter

you the most, regardless if you are picking a bow tie, a tie,

a chain, a watch or a pocket square.

The trick to picking out just the right accessories is to

make sure that they are always proportionate to your

body. People with big body frames can wear bigger

watches, wider ties and bolder necklaces, while men with

more slender physiques should wear smaller accessories.

Have you ever seen a thin guy wearing a very big bow tie

and felt that there’s something wrong, but couldn’t tell

what it was? It was probably that the bow tie was too big

for him and this is why he looked disproportionate. The

hard part about the process of choosing accessories is that

you need to be very well aware of the way you look.

Sadly, too many men struggle with knowing where they

70

place in terms of body size. What you also need to pay

attention to is what accessories you place where. This

means that if you want to appear thinner, wearing small

accessories will only make you look bigger, you won’t be

fooling anyone but yourself. Accessories have a way of

attracting people’s views, so wear them where you want

people to look. Choosing the right accessories also has

the advantage that your overall look will be more framed

and structured. Accessories always add structure to an

outfit, which is why it’s very important to wear them.

HOW TO CHOOSE POCKET SQUARES

Picking out a pocket square is very easy and wearing one

with your jacket is definitely something you should be

doing in order to get a more put-together look. Pocket

squares have the advantage that they can

add something visually interesting to any

outfit and that, even if you are wearing

something conservative, you will still be

able to express your personality through

71

your pocket square. The “rule” of pocket squares is that

they don’t have to match the rest of your outfit, they

simply need to go. For example, a pocket square can

have complimentary color to your main color. According

to some people, a pocket square should not match in

terms of fabric as well, but we think that if your pocket

square comes from the same fabric family as your other

pieces, it will look very well too!

BOW TIES

• Bow ties are usually the right thing to wear at a formal

event or in an academic surrounding. It is very important

to know that bow ties do not replace ties, so don’t wear a

bow tie to a job interview or a regular job meeting.

• Classic bow ties come in black, white and silver.

• You can also wear a colorful bow tie, like an orange or

green one.

• Colorful bow ties need to match your pocket square!

72

• Bow ties with patterns, although not so common, are

really are usually worn by people who wear bow ties quite

often, and do not make very formal attire.

• The fabric is also embedded with a message: the

shinier the bow tie, the more formal it is.

• Most common bow ties have a spread of 2.25 inches –

2.75 inches / 5,7 – 7 cm. Smaller, skinnier bows, also

called bat-wing bows, look best on men that have

narrower and longer necks. Larger bow ties, known as

butterflies, look best on men with wider and shorter

necks.

• Free-style or pre-tied bow ties are both ok, but free-

style bow ties are more sophisticated and have a personal

touch to them!

THE THING WITH SUSPENDERS

When they appeared, suspenders were considered

underwear, so it was not customary for them to be visible.

73

Times have changed, and suspenders became a very

common (and great-looking) fashion accessory.

They are highly versatile and go with pretty much any

type of outfit. What you will learn is that it’s not the

suspenders that set the tone of the outfit, but it’s the outfit

that sets the tone of the suspenders.

Suspenders were most fashionable in the midcentury, but

as most classic men’s fashion items they are making a

come-back. And, let’s face it, suspenders didn’t actually

go out of style (they probably never will), they just let the

belt take the spotlight.

Suspenders and occasion: From casual to business

The great thing about suspenders is that they go with

almost every type of outfit. They are perfect for a casual

everyday outfit, but also for a business one. They look

just as great on a bartender as they look on a Wall Street

guy. Formal suits well with suspenders and look really fun

and elegant at the same time.

74

Casual outfits and suspenders

To obtain a certain look, it’s not the suspenders in

themselves that make the outfit, they are just an

accessory, and it’s the overall vibe that sets the tone.

A casual look With Suspenders

So, if you wear them with chino pants and an informal

shirt with its sleeves rolled up, you will definitely get an

amazing casual look.

75

A casual look where the suspenders are not visible all the

time.

Wearing a business-oriented outfit, with a tie and dress

pants will grant you the Wall

Street with suspenders look.

Extremely casual wear and

suspenders

Speaking of casual looks, you

can get even more casual. If

76

you’re the kind of guy that wears a tank top on a daily

basis or a rugged t-shirt, suspenders can also give you an

extra edge, and in this case the tone will be rather punk

than just casual.

Very casual outfits with suspenders.

Formal wear and suspenders

If you wear a formal shirt, a tie and dress pants, the

suspenders will become the accessory that will add a lot

of personality to your outfit.

77

Formal suspenders. Actually, it’s the outfit that’s formal

while the suspenders only support it.

Suspenders are also an important part of black tie outfits.

You should know that there is no such thing as a very

formal belt. Usually, suspenders worn with black tie

outfits should black or white, and are not supposed to be

seen beneath your jacket. Quality formal suspenders

usually end in braided silk ends rather than leather tabs.

Tabs are, perfectly acceptable as well, but clips are not.

And, even though it’s not the suspenders that set the vibe,

we highly recommend keeping the tone of the suspenders

within the tone that you wish to convey. A formal,

78

business-oriented outfit will not look its

best with suspenders with a pineapple

print.

If you are wearing suspenders that

have leather parts or are entirely out of

leather, they should match your shoes.

Many men will normally fasten their

suspenders in the back, then put their

trousers on, and then fasten the suspenders in the front.

Some suspenders designs use a metal clasp that pinches

the fabric of the trousers, while some have small buttons

at each end of the suspender. The second type are, in our

opinion, better because they do not compress and in the

end damage the trouser fabric, but the thing is that you

can only wear them with trousers that feature button-flaps

for suspenders (these are usually situated on the inside of

the waistband to either side of the central button and fly).

Trousers that are not made with button-flaps for

suspenders can only work with clamp-style suspenders.

They will usually be made with belt-loops.

79

The golden rule

Whatever you, don’t wear suspenders with a belt. Your

pants won’t fall off!

Suspenders are really an amazing piece, but sometimes

belts are better. Try them both and see which works best

for you. Including suspenders in your wardrobe will only

give you more tools to use when you are dressing up

every day.

THE GUIDE TO SOCKS

Socks are an important piece of clothing, even though

most men don’t pay much attention to them. They are

not only a visible part of our outfit, but are also important

because they are functional. They absorb our

perspiration; protect us from abrasion and so much

more. A bad pair of socks can harm your feet and mood,

while a good one can go a long way.

80

In this guide, we have a look at socks from different

angles, such as design, length, functionality and other

factors.

Brief history

We will start with a brief history of this piece to

understand some background info and then we will go in

the details.

Socks have been around for a lot of years. The Ancient

Greeks wore them, the Romans wore them too, but the

exact date of their appearance can’t be known, as the first

pairs of socks probably “dissolved” by now. We know

that in ancient times though, socks were made out of

animal skins and hair, in order to offer protection and

keep warm. The socks history has seen a huge change in

1589, when the knitting machine appeared. Until then,

socks were knitted by hand. After this year, machines and

workers worked together until 1800. The introduction of

nylon in 1938 also changed the way people saw socks, as

81

until then, they were made out of wool, cotton and

silk (which, as you will read, are still preferred fabrics).

Socks have also become part of different stories or

holidays, such as Christmas, as it is celebrated in the

Western world, where Santa brings gifts and places them

in people’s neatly arranged socks. Socks also have

different variations, such as the Koren beoseon.

But socks are more than just a functional piece; they can

also be a fashion statement. We have a few “rules” as we

like to call them and pieces of information that might

help you learn about socks. Of course, we want you to

create your own style and follow these “rules” just as

guidelines.

It’s important to know more about socks as it this will give

you better insight into the world of fashion, style, and

clothing, and you might discover things you didn’t know

and which you can use in different situations.

82

The “Against the Stream” socks by Soxfords

General rules

Let’s start with the general rules.

1. First of all, the socks you are wearing must match your

pants. This is a guideline that will give you a look you

won’t go wrong with. However, once you know your style

and want to express your identity through socks, and

83

clothes in general, you can break this rule and be more

personal. You can get socks that are colorful, have

patterns or are different in other ways and even pair them

with your tie or shoes.

2. It is said that socks are to merge the shoe and the pants

(if you are wearing long pants of course), and you are not

supposed to show skin between them. Of course, we

don’t believe in rules and think that if you can pull it off,

you should do it.

3. Socks, like the rest of the pieces you are wearing, must

go with the whole outfit and the occasion. Don’t wear

sports socks at a black tie event or vice versa.

4. Try to avoid socks that have holes in them. Unless

that’s your trademark look. Of course, then you are

probably weird in a weird way.

5. Learn you sock size, as otherwise you will be either

having your circulation stopped by your socks or you will

be swimming in them. If you’re not sure, try several socks

84

on until you know exactly what your size is, but mind the

fact that sizes can vary by manufacturer.

Types of socks

Let’s talk about the types of socks there are according to

the size and the occasion you want to wear them at.

By length

1. Regarding the length aspect of the sock, there are three

types of socks: low-cut sport, ankle-dress, and knee-length

socks. Of course, the low-cut type is for sports, relaxation,

very casual dressing, and occasions at which you wear

short pants, while the other types are for dressier

occasions. We need to mention that knee-length socks

are rarer, as they cost more to produce, so finding them

will be harder and they are probably going to be more

expensive. However, you don’t need to panic (we hope

85

you were not in a fashion panic), as ankle-dress socks will

do the job really well.

From left to right: low-cut sport, ankle-dress, and knee-

length socks

By use

When it comes to purpose, there are more types of

socks:

1. Dress socks. This type is made to be worn at most

occasions where you need to wear a suit or a casual outfit.

Usually these socks are made in neutral colors, mostly

dark colors, and if they have a pattern, this is usually the

86

classic argyle. Usually, if you wear light-colored dress

socks, you should wear them with a light outfit.

Socks with argyle pattern

2. Sports and Athletic Performance Socks. These are the

socks you wear at the gym, while hiking and so on. They

can be low-cut socks or very high socks (depending on

the sport you wear them for). Some socks are made to

enhance a man’s athletic performances, using techniques

that wick sweat, trap in heat (for winter sports usually) or

increase comfort.

87

3. Protective socks. This type of socks is not very

common, as it is not created to be worn casually.

Protective socks are usually designed to help the wearer

in extreme conditions, such as mountain expeditions or

swimming (there is a type of socks that can be worn while

swimming, that protect the feet from getting too cold even

though they are wet).

Socks and design

Socks usually come in three types when it comes to color

1. Neutral. Neutral socks are perfect for formal events. If

you want to have a good look for this type of event, we

recommend that you match your socks to your pants and

not to your neckwear. What’s also a rule we go by is to

match the textures as well: shiny pants go with shiny

socks, while a tweed suit doesn’t go. Neutral socks can be

worn with casual outfits too. But when you are wearing a

casual outfit, you can match your socks (for example if

88

they are navy blue) to your jacket or another piece on the

upper half of your outfit.

It is said that white socks are to be worn only when doing

physical activities. If that is a rule to live by is up for you

to decide.

Solid color socks

2. Sold color. It is quite a modern thing for men to wear

colored socks, but we encourage it, like it and think that

it’s a safe experiment you can try. Block colors mean

89

chalky or non-chalky colors that don’t fall under the

neutral spectrum (beige, black, blue, khaki, etc.). In our

opinion, socks shouldn’t be the main focus of your outfit.

Of course, it is fun to do so once in a while. They should

be a supporting piece of everything you wear. Usually

colorful socks are to be worn when you already have

another colorful piece, otherwise, if you are wearing a

rather neutral outfit, the socks will be the only thing

people will remember about you.

3. Patterns. Nowadays socks with patterns or prints are

more widespread, which is a very good thing. It is highly

recommended that the pattern of your socks should be

matched to a color on the upper part of your outfit. We

also would say that it is best not to match your patterned

socks with another pattern that you are already wearing.

Meaning, you can have two patterns, but you shouldn’t

match them. Wearing funny socks can be tricky, as the

message that comes across needs to be in tandem with

the context you are wearing them in, for example, when

are Bart Simpson socks appropriate for a 40 year old

dude?

90

Purple striped socks

Fabrics

When it comes to fabrics, socks are being made out of a

variety of materials, each having its own particularities:

1. Wool. The classic material for socks, wool is the fabric

that socks have been made out of for a lot of time. Wool

socks come in all prices and they go great for all types of

guys.

2. Cotton. Cotton is also a very popular fabric when it

comes to men’s socks. It is often blended with man-made

fibers to improve the fit and strength of the sock. It is very

durable and conforms to the shape of the foot, offering

91

excellent fit. They are easily washed (you can use pretty

much any type of washing product) and are easily

maintained.

3. Cashmere. Cashmere is, of course, a luxury fabric and

its properties, although similar to wool, are a lot finer.

The thing with cashmere is that it needs to be maintained

with a lot more care than other fabrics. We think it is

recommended to avoid a washing machine or dryer when

it comes to cashmere. So, washing socks by hand requires

not only the skill, but also the time and patience that

come with this.

4. Silk. Silk is also a fine fabric that you can consider

when it comes to socks. It is often blended with high-

quality wool in order for the sock to keep you warm in

the winter and cool in the summer. And how nice is that,

to have clothes that change their properties by the

season? Silk, like cashmere, is lighter than wool and will

make the socks be almost bulk-free.

92

What if you do not want to wear socks?

Sockless is the way to go for many men. Not wearing

socks is hard to pull off in winter, so for most men there

is a limited time in which they can be sock-free. Going

sockless is a trademark of casual occasions, so of course

you should not go sockless at a black tie event, or at least

that’s what’s recommended. The problem with going

sockless is that you need to have really, but really good

shoes, otherwise you will sweat, slip and be really

uncomfortable. Not to mention blisters and other

surprises that might come along. In this case, we have a

tip for you: If you like the look of being sockless, but still

want to get all the comfort socks provide, go for no-show

socks. They are a great option and feel just like normal

socks.

No show socks

93

There you have it! Now, you can use this information to

get the pair of socks that fits you, your budget and needs.

And even if socks are not such a big part of your

wardrobe, make sure they are a well-taken-care-of part.

Having the right pieces will improve your mood and will

help you do everything better!

94

Watches

HOW TO CHOOSE A WATCH

Watches are one of the most worn pieces of accessories

by most men, who, when they pick their accessories,

choose to wear a watch or a tie. Waistbands, pocket

squares and all the other accessories men can use are

generally left for the second or third place. The watch

you are wearing speaks a lot about your personality and

taste. The reason watches are such a powerful reflection

of one’s inner being is because they are a conscious

choice. Mostly everyone today has a cell phone they can

check to see what time it is, so wearing a watch is a

deliberate choice and a style statement.

So, basically, the main task of the watch can be fulfilled

by other gadgets we own. So, why wear a watch then? It’s

said that men are obsessed with their watches, and we’re

not sure that’s so true. Because watches are a 100%

voluntarily item, they are probably the most important

item that speaks volumes about your personality.

95

So, here are a few questions you need to ask yourself

before buying a watch:

When and where am I going to wear it?

Just like clothes, your watches need to match the

occasion: a sports watch is appropriate for informal

occasion, and it definitely doesn’t go at formal occasions.

You will stand out, and not in a good way, if you wear a

watch that is too casual at a formal party or event.

There are three types of watches: Analog, digital and

analog/digital. Of course, analog watched are the most

formal ones, while digital watches are appropriate for

casual environments. Analog/digital watches have both an

analog and a digital face. They are usually work-

appropriate but not highly formal.

Is it age appropriate?

You know, we’re not saying you shouldn’t like Spiderman

in your 30s, but we’re saying you shouldn’t wear it on

96

your wrist. We want you to look young, and there’s ways

to achieve this, you will see some example watches later

which will make you look young, but we don’t want you

to look immature.

What do I need it for?

Nowadays, watches don’t just show the time, some show

the temperature and other features as well, so you might

want to consider getting a watch that’s appropriate for

your lifestyle. When it comes to need, you also need to

wonder whether your need a watch that is just a

chronograph, which means that it just measures the time,

or whether you need a chronometer, meaning a watch

that is able to measure how much something lasts.

Can I afford it? How can I get the best price/quality

ratio?

Watches are one of the few remaining pieces that actually

say “wealth” and “status”. But we don’t want that to be

97

your goal. There are watches that cost more than a

Ferrari, like the Patek Caliber 89, which is worth more

than $5 Million, but even if you have such a watch, we

don’t want you to show off. You can get amazing watches

for under $100 and the rule we want you to go by is

authenticity. We would rather wear a cheaper watch

which is authentic and the best quality you can get for a

price, than a fake.

There are three types of watches, according to the way

they function: battery, quartz or mechanical, sometimes

referred to as hand-wound. Battery watches work on

batteries, quartz watches work on an electrified quartz

crystal and are very accurate, and mechanical watches

have a complicated mechanism made out of gears and

springs.

What size watch do I need?

The number one rule of choosing accessories is that the

size of your accessories needs to be proportionate to the

size of your body. Average-size watches look really small

98

on big men, whereas thin men look handcuffed with huge

watches.

What color should I go for?

We love colors and your watch must match your clothes.

Most worn watches are black, even though they are being

produced in all colors. This means that a colorful watch is

more likely to stand out.

Also, on another note make sure you maintain your

watch properly: you can keep it in a case or a drawer and

don’t “test” it to see if it scratches and breaks.

HOW TO MATCH YOUR WATCH TO YOUR

CLOTHES

To choose your watch wisely, you need to make sure that

both your outfit and your watch are appropriate for the

occasion for which you are wearing them. One watch

cannot fit all occasions: there will be at least one occasion

where your watch is not appropriate. What you need to

99

know is that there is a wide variety of watches on the

market and that you can learn what a good watch is and

what is a bad one either from experimenting or from

recommendations (the second way will definitely save you

a lot of money).

Your watch and the occasion

Very elegant

Beautiful designer watches we found on The Watch

Gallery website

Elegant watches are usually characterized by simplicity.

Because simplicity is something that’s so hard to obtain, a

simple, yet sophisticated watch is the best option should

you be wearing a suit. Depending on the occasion, an

100

elegant watch can be made out of gold, white gold or

silver for a very upscale event, or it can be more colorful

and have leather strap, but still look “well-mannered”. A

simple, elegant, yet colorful watch can be the pop of color

you can add to a very formal outfit. Note that there are

different degrees of formal clothes: a tuxedo should never

be worn with a watch, but a formal suit can go with a

watch very well.

Very casual

We assume that you are not a guy who is wearing

sweatpants on a daily basis outside of your work-out place

when we discuss what an appropriate casual watch is. The

right casual watch has fine lines and a carefully crafted

101

design, but it also leaves room to playfulness and

creativity. You will notice that most watches fall in this

category. Sometimes, a casual watch can be stricter than

another, but, again, it all depends on the circumstances.

For example, both working at the office and traveling are

casual occasions, but they are different types of casual.

The more laid back the situation, the more relaxed you

can be when it comes to your watch: we don’t

recommend that you wear a too colorful watch when you

are in a business-casual environment, but this does not

mean that you can’t wear a more formal watch when you

are hanging out with your friends.

102

Very sporty

Sport watches are just the right thing to wear when you are

hitting the gym, going for a jog or meeting up some people at

your local sports bar. These can have a lot of buttons and

switches and work very well even if they have a digital display.

By mixing layers, lines, and by using dynamic shapes, a sport

watch has all the features of an active accessory. Some watches

are even made resist underwater, so they are just the right thing

to wear on your wrist when you go swimming or diving. This

way, because you will probably also have a chronometer, you

will know how much time you’re spending in the water.

103

Your watch and your body frame

To get the best effect you should always pick your watch

according to your size as well. As any other accessories,

watches should be proportionate to your body: thin men

can work slim watches, while bigger guys can carry

watches that are boxier and more robust. If you are a

small guy and you wear a big watch, it won’t make you

look bigger; you will appear to be wearing handcuffs.

Also, a bigger man wearing a thin watch is most likely to

look “arm-strangled”.

Just like in the case of glasses, a watch can harden of

soften your look if needed. For example, a watch with a

104

boxier shape can compensate a more slender figure,

while a very round watch can soften a very “square look”.

Sometimes, watches can be in tandem with your shape.

This is why the golden rule is to see what looks best on

you and which trick results in the most harmonious look

you can get.

Your watch and the colors of your clothes

A very important aspect of wearing a watch is its colors.

To cut right to the chase and answer the most burning

question, whether gold and silver can be paired, we need

to say that the answer is: yes, you can mix gold and silver,

as they are both neutrals.

Usually black watches are the most formal, while brown,

gray or khaki watches tend to be more casual. Very

colorful watches should be kept for casual occasions only.

Very bright colors are usually the right choice when it

comes to sport watches, while darker colors are reserved

for more formal watches. If you choose to wear a

105

colorful, watch, you can put together a color scheme by

using the color wheel and integrate the watch within your

concept.

To conclude, we can say that the variety of watches

matches the variety of occasions and people in the world:

you just need to use some time to think whether the

watch you wear is an external reflection of the message

you want to convey and the context in which you will be

wearing it.

106

Shoes

HOW TO CHOOSE SHOES

Shoes are very important and are one of the fashion

things that have the most direct impact on the way we

feel. Shoes that hurt are not going to work well for the

way you feel and act.

The number one golden rule of shoes is that they need to

be comfortable. The second rule is that they need to be

appropriate for the occasion. There’s no point in going

hiking in the woods wearing Oxford shoes, or going to

the opera in sneakers.

Choosing the right shoes does not only mean picking

them up from the store, but also from your wardrobe.

Make sure that the shoes you own are kept in the right

conditions. For example, keeping them in a too moist

environment will make them go bad, which not

something you want. Why would you? Your shoes also

107

need to be clean and polished, and when they are

unwearable, throw them out. A hole in your shoes (we

have seen that too) doesn’t work and you will probably

not create a trend.

Here is what you need to look for when picking out

shoes:

Your shoes should be a little darker than your pants!

Your shoes should go with your socks (we are going to

discuss another time how to choose socks).

Shoes should not only match your pants, but your belt

also, if you wear one.

If you wear jeans, you can go with almost any kind of

shoe, they just not too shiny!

Black shoes go of course with blue, gray, navy or,

obviously black pants.

Brown shoes go with brown or beige pants

108

If you wear more colorful shoes, like burgundy ones you

can match them with blue, browns, lighter browns etc.

If you have new shoes, don’t forget to try on your shoes

for a few hours around the house after you have bought

them, to make sure they are not constraining or too

loose.

THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF MEN’S DRESS SHOES

There are many people today who want to look and feel

their best but don’t have the necessary tools to do so, and

who would like to know the difference between different

types of shoes but are lost in the details and give up. This

is why in what follows, you can read a quick and smart

guide to men’s dress shoes and see examples for the main

groups of shoes.

109

Oxford shoe by Gucci

Oxford shoes originated in Scotland and Ireland and are

laced shoes characterized by shoelace eyelet tabs that are

stitched underneath the vamp. Historically, these shoes

were plain and made out of leather, but now they have

many embellishments and colors. These are shoes that

can be worn at formal occasions and usually have an

elegant feel to them. They are timeless, versatile, go great

with suits and are formal.

Monk strap shoes are shoes that have no lacing, closed by

a buckle and strap. In terms of formality, monk strap

shoes are between oxford shoes and derby shoes. Monk

strap shoes have either one strap or two straps. There is

110

no rule to wearing one or two, but we would consider the

strap in this case an accessory, so the bigger the guy, the

bigger and more the straps, and the thinner the guy, the

thinner the strap and strap number.

Monk strap shoe by Gucci

Derby shoes have the shoelace eyelet

tabs sewn on top of a single-piece

vamp. They are considered to be a little

less formal than oxfords, because the

open laces allow the shoe to open

much wider and as a result, are easier

111

to put on. We would argue that derby shoes are the

definition of “business casual”.

Brogues and Wingtips are similar shoes, but they’re not

quite exactly the same. Actually,

they are not similar, but many

people can’t see the difference, so

here we are to clarify: brogues are

any shoes that have perforations

on it. These perforations have, of

course, decorative purposes.

Historically, these perforations used to let the water out

which would flood the shoes in the Scottish and Irish

weather. Wingtips are any shoes that have a W shape

design on the toe cap. A shoe with the W design minus

the perforations is also a wingtip. There are also full

brogues and semi-brogues. Full brogue is a combination

of the W design and perforations, while a semi-brogue is

mostly characterized by perforations on the toe cap and

some serration on the edge of the cap.

112

Loafers & Moccasins are slip-on shoes and are one of our

favorites. The difference between loafers and moccasins

is that they have different origins and are slightly cut

differently. The big difference is that loafers have a

distinct heel, so many would argue that the difference is

basically in the sole. The cool thing about this type of

shoes is that they come in such a huge variety that it’s

hard to say precise if they are to be worn at formal

occasions or at casual ones. It really depends on the

fabric and the color of the shoe. Dressier loafers can be

worn at formal occasions, while colorful ones that come

in more casual fabrics, should be worn at work or casual

occasions.

A Moccasin shoe

Loafer by Louis Vuitton

113

HOW TO POLISH YOUR SHOES

Having perfectly polished shoes is a great detail that

makes any outfit complete. Polishing shoes is easy and

can be done by anyone quickly, easily and correctly. Here

is a guide that will walk you through the steps of an

optimal shoes polishing experience: from the set, the

tools you need and how to do it to make it effective and

the least dirty it can get.

In this article we discuss how you should polish dress

shoes, such as black or brown leather shoes, since

different types of shoes need to be maintained in

different ways.

114

Set (How to make preparations)

Here is the set you need to put together when you want to

polish your shoes.

First of all, you need a newspaper or an old towel on

which you will work on.

Then, bring your shoes and take the shoelaces off.

Gather all the tools you need (you will read about them in

the second step) and place them on the newspaper or

around it. Things tend to become dirty when someone

polishes shoes, so it’s best to keep the things that make a

mess on the paper.

Don’t decide to shine your shoes after you are all dressed

up or anything like that. You might get… you guessed it,

dirty! On another note, you can polish your shoes even

after you’ve bought them and generally try to polish them

a little while before wearing them. It can be a good idea

to polish your shoes at least once a week and if you get

them wet or dirty, more often.

115

Ready (What you need)

Here is what you need to give your shoes a great shine:

horsehair shine brush

buffing cloths

shoe polish

all-purpose leather cleaner and conditioner

Tips:

Make sure that you have a different brush for each color;

you don’t want to mix the brown equipment with the

black one.

Also, make sure that the color of the polish is as close as

possible to the color of your shoe. When you first test a

cream, apply it to an area of your shoe that is not very

visible. This way, you can decide whether the color is

good or not without issues.

116

Go (How to do it)

1. Use the horsehair brush to remove possible stains, dirt

or dust from the shoe. Pay attention to the heel and sole.

In case your shoes are very dirty, use leather cleaner. To

make sure it all goes well and you don’t affect the shape

of the shoe when doing this, keep the shoe tree in the

shoe while you polish it. This is the step where you can

also use conditioner if you choose to do so. Conditioning

your leather shoes reacts on the leather by softening and

moisturizing it. This also protects it from drying out and

eventually cracking. Some types of leather, and generally

shoes used in dryer climates might need to have

conditioner applied more often.

2. When the shoes are clean and dry, apply a good

amount of polish using your shoe polish brush.

Afterwards, spread it at a level on the whole surface of the

shoe. If you have trouble getting to some areas, use a

toothbrush or a cotton swab. Afterwards wait around 20

minutes until the polish is dry. Remember this say when

applying polish: “Thin coats + Many coats = The highest

of high shines.”

117

3. When the shoe is completely dry, take the shoeshine

brush and carefully wipe off the polish. Make sure to use

a clean cotton swab or a toothbrush in case you have

issues with some harder to reach areas.

4. The last step is the buff job. For this, you need a clean,

lint-free chamois or a shine cloth so that your shoes shine

in all their glory. When doing this, use both long strokes

as well as smaller circular strokes.

Cream, paste or wax polish?

There are several types of products you can use to shine

your shoes. What you need to know is that they act in

different ways. Cream or paste polish for example soaks

and moisturize leather but also allow the leather to

breathe. Wax leather usually results in a finer shine but it

seals leather and might cause dryness. Liquid polish

usually offers shine but it can crack leather.

118

Why you should keep your shoes polished

There are a few reasons which we think are big enough

for which you should keep your shoes polished. First of

all, we all know that looking good is a good part of feeling

good in everyday life. Second, keeping your shoes in

shape will make them last longer and third; having a good

pair of shoes ready at any time will save you the “which

shoes should I put on” problems.

So, have a look at your shoes and if they’re not in shape,

go ahead and shine them; we’re sure you’ll enjoy the

results.

119

Grooming: Shaving,

perfumes and more!

SHAVING DONE RIGHT

Here are some shaving tips any man can use the next

time he needs to look smooth and refined!

• It’s good to have a properly hydrated face when you

start shaving. Take a shower before you start!

• Shaving gel is better for you if you have sensitive skin.

• When you are shaving, use light strokes and don’t

force the blade too hard.

• It’s best to shave with your grain first.

• There is an ongoing debate about shaving in the

opposite direction of the direction your hair is growing in.

Some say it’s the best way to get a smooth shave, other

say it will only irritate you! Try it and see if works for you!

120

HOW TO CHOOSE A PERFUME

• Many men use the word cologne to describe perfume.

There is actually a big difference! Cologne is basically just

a weaker blend of essential oils. It is a lot more diluted

than perfume.

• All fragrances consist of three notes-the top note, the

middle note and the base note--that are "uncovered" in

layers as time passes, so you must be careful what you

choose. Don’t go with what you feel when you try it in the

store!

• When you try a perfume, test it on your skin, and not

on the tester, as different scents smell differently on

different people.

• We recommend that you should own at least two

different scents: one for day and one for night.

• With most traditional spray bottles of cologne, one or

two short sprays is usually enough to get the job done.

Spray it in areas where the blood vessels are elevated

beneath the skin, such as your chest, neck and wrists, for

121

fine results. Also try to put on your cologne before you

get dressed, as the oils can stain your clothes.

To conclude this part, we can say that you must not

forget, as a general rule: keep it simple! Looking stylish

does not mean to put tons of stuff on. Combining all the

tasty flavors in the world will not give you the best food; it

will result in a bizarre dish! Choose the right things and

the outcome will follow!

CHOOSE THE BEST HAIRCUT FOR YOUR FACE

TYPE

Before we begin, we need to say that you can establish

yourself what type face you have, by just looking in the

mirror and pulling your hair back, so that it doesn’t cover

your face. Look at your forehead, your chin and your

jawline and try to see the category you fit in. (More on

pages 57 – 58)

The oval face is very common and flexible. Usually, the

chin of an oval face is a little narrower than the forehead.

122

Proportions are usually balanced. Oval faces have high

cheek bones. Being so flexible, this type of face goes with

pretty much anything. You can comb it to one side, do

spikes or anything else, as pretty much anything goes.

However, you might want to not cover your face with

hair, so avoid heavy bangs.

Round faces usually have full cheeks and sometimes a

rounded chin with few angles. This type of face also has

an equal length and width. If you have a round face, you

can keep your hair in such a way that it balances your

features. Stay away from round hairstyles, and try to keep

the sides leaner and style the hair a little higher at the top

and front so that you provide balance. An off-center part

for example or some waves at the level of the eyes will

help minimize roundness. You can look for inspiration at

actor Elijah Wood.

Heart-faces have a broad forehead and wide and high

cheek bones that will narrow to a small chin. This type of

face normally has a narrow jaw line. I you have a heart-

face; you might want to choose a longer hairstyle, as it will

add volume under your cheekbones. Try not to go too

123

big on the upper half of your head, as it will exaggerate

your features. Also, slicked back is a bad idea, so try to

avoid it!

Square faces have a strong jaw line, a broad forehead and

a square chin. Width and length are also proportional.

You need to go for a look that will soften your features.

Haircuts in layers are best, but make sure you don’t go

for something with bangs or that needs parting in the

middle. This will only bring more lines to your features.

Knowing what your face type and what goes best with it

can be a little difficult, so we recommend that you consult

with your barber or stylist before making a big change.

Also, make sure that whatever hairstyle you have, keep

your hair in order and always clean.

Also, look at the features you like about your face, and try

to make them stand out. You can also camouflage the

features you don’t like. For example, if you have bigger

ears, avoid a tight haircut that will emphasize them. This

124

does not mean to cover them, but adding a little volume

on the sides will help balance your look.

If you have a slim neck, avoid haircuts that have a high

taper, as they will make you slimmer. If you have a big

nose, you can go for a fuller haircut.

In the end, it’s all about the attitude! Think about the fact

that we are all perfect the way we are and therefore we

should feel good! So, rock that haircut and own your face

type and you are already a better man!

GENERAL GROOMING TIPS

When it comes to you overall look, it’s important to pay

just as much attention to your clothes and other big items

as it is to pay attention to a lot of small details. These

details are not only the accessories you wear, they are also

the simple rituals you do to groom yourself.

Being well-groomed will complete your look, regardless

of the style you adopt.

125

We are breaking down some of the most important

things you should (or shouldn’t) be doing when you are

polishing yourself.

So, here they are, 25 grooming tips for men, broken

down into several categories: face, teeth, hair and other.

Face

Shaving & facial hair

When you are shaving, always shave in the

direction in which your hair is growing.

To have a better shaving experience, do it after

you have taken a shower, as your pores will be

open and your skin a little more moist.

It’s important to know that the characteristics of

your facial hair are directed by genetics, and not

by how often you shave. You can’t control you

126

beard’s thickness and natural color, as much as

you try.

Also, it is a myth that using more shaving cream

will result in a better shave. This does not mean

that you should use a little. Finding the right

amount for yourself is key. Once you found it,

you can keep it as you own rule.

While this is not something directly related to

shaving, it’s still somehow correlated with your…

facial hair: we advise you to trim your nose hair

for a younger, fresher look.

Speaking of nose hair, the same goes for the small

hair in your ears.

Make sure you take at least minimal care of your

eyebrows. While younger guys usually have more

structured eyebrows, older men to have more

rebel hair up there. Make sure your eyebrows

look their best and don’t be afraid to ask a

professional for help (or someone who knows

127

their thing), as doing it by yourself might end up

in a disaster.

If you choose to trim your eyebrows by yourself,

never use a razor, as you might end up in shaving

it all off or taking down a big chunk.

Skin

Make sure that you always moisturize your skin.

And this goes for your whole body, not just your

face. Men’s skin is usually by 20% thicker than

women’s skin, and as we age, it tends to become

less elastic and more prone to wrinkles and

dryness, which is why we need to take care of it

well.

You can use the moisturizing product of your

choice, as you know your skin better, but there

are also other things you can do that can help

your skin keep its elasticity. You can drink a lot of

128

water or go into more exotic things, such as face

yoga.

To help your skin, you can get a facial once in a

while. Even though facial used to be something

associated with women’s care, now they are

available for men as well and can help you look

younger and more toned.

Use exfoliators, but not more than twice a week.

Cleansing too much, and especially with abrasive

exfoliators can cause dryness to your skin and

leave red marks. The skin becomes irritated, and

to compensate, it will produce even more oil that

you will want to remove. In short, you should find

the right routine that works best for your skin type

and cleansing program.

Make sure you moisturize the skin around your

eyes, as this will help prevent potential bags under

your eyes to appear.

129

Teeth

Make sure your teeth are white and always

brushed well. You are technically able to keep

your teeth for as long as possible if you brush

them at least two times a day and you can keep

them white if you go to the dentist and have them

checked (and do a teeth whitening) at least twice a

year.

Also, drinking coffee and red wine or smoking

will only make your teeth darker and more

stained.

If you brush your teeth after every meal (which

would be ideal), you shouldn’t wash them right

then and there. Waiting around 30 minutes is

optimal, as brushing your teeth directly after a

meal, especially if you had acidic foods and drink,

can increase enamel erosion.

Flossing your teeth will also help the health of

your teeth a lot, as some particles can’t be

130

reached easily with a tooth brush. This note

should be taken into consideration by everyone,

but especially by guys who have really close teeth.

Make sure you change your toothbrush at least

twice a year, as they wear out and get filled with

bacteria.

Hair

Make sure you wash your hair whenever you need

it. There is no standard for frequency. Some men

need to wash their hair more often, while others

can even go a few days without washing it. As a

rule of thumb: don’t let it get very dirty before you

wash it.

Don’t forget to trim your hair as often as possible.

We always say that a buzz cut is better than

unattended hair. If you can’t get a haircut very

often, try at least to take care of your sideburns

131

and the hair on your neck. These details really

make a difference.

Dying your hair has become more accessible to

men in the last years, but if you choose to dye

your hair, make sure you do it professionally.

Most men’s hair coloring creams are made to

look natural and to go with your natural hair color

current state of going grey, but choosing a color

without professional advice is risky, since getting a

color that’s too dark or too bright might end in a

shock of contrast.

Some men believe that stress causes white hair.

While this is true, stress is only a very small part

of what causes someone to go grey. Also, another

myth is that wearing a hat can cause baldness.

Baldness is caused by genetics, and even if there

are a lot of exterior factors that influence it (which

we will discuss in another article), wearing a hat is

not one of them.

132

Other

When it comes to fragrances, less is

more. Perfume is such a person thing, that it

really should be done in a subtle and fine matter.

It’s important to always have good nails, so always

consider your nails a first priority! You don’t need

to get special, professional care if you don’t have

the time or the money, but always make sure they

are properly clipped.

You can get a fresher look by doing Botox, which

can be very easily be made today. However, make

sure you don’t overdo it!

133

You now see how so many small details can actually

make you look more put together and polished. Next

time you look in the mirror with a critical eye, see which

one of these things you should be working on and don’t

be afraid to make a change!

Seeing yourself with a critical eye does not mean under

any circumstance that you should put yourself down for

not looking a certain way. It is crucial to make yourself

look your best to feel good and not to try to get

somewhere where you can’t. Of course, you should strive

to be the best possible version of yourself and to any

measures you can to achieve this, but what is more

important is to never lose yourself along the way!

134

Table of contents

Welcome to the Attire Club 1

General style ‘rules’ 5

Patterns, prints and textures 7

How to layer clothes 8

A look at colors 12

Choosing the colors of your clothes according to

your skin tone 16

The Suit 23

Essential suit rules 25

How your shirts should fit 29

Pants planet 38

The buttons rule 39

The Tie 47

135

How to choose a good tie 47

How to match your tie to your shirt 51

Choose the best ties for your body and face type

55

A quick look at knit ties 60

How to maintain a tie 66

Other accessories 69

How to choose accessories 69

How to choose pocket squares 70

Bow ties 71

The thing with suspenders 72

The guide to socks 79

Watches 94

How to choose a watch 94

How to match your watch to your clothes 98

136

Shoes 106

How to choose shoes 106

The different types of men’s dress shoes 108

How to polish your shoes 113

Grooming: shaving, perfumes and more! 119

Shaving done right 119

How to choose a perfume 120

Choose the best haircut for your face type 121

General grooming tips 124

Table of contents 134

137

The Attire Club Look Book – 2014 edition

By Fraquoh and Franchomme

Published in Vienna, Austria by

Attire Club (http://attireclub.org)

Disclaimer: This book contains copyrighted material the use of which has not always been specifically authorized by the copyright owner. We are making such material available in our efforts to advance understanding of issues of cultural and artistic significance. We believe this constitutes a ‘fair use’ of any such copyrighted material as provided for in section 107 of the US Copyright Law. In accordance with Title 17 U.S.C. Section 107, the material on this site is distributed without profit to those who express interest in receiving the included information for research and educational purposes. However, if you need us to withdraw any of the photos, please do not hesitate to contact us on our website. Commercial use and distribution, any modification or adaptation of the contents, or creation of derivative works from the contents of this website are not allowed without express and prior written consent of the author (except for fair use cases mentioned above).

© All rights reserved 2014

138