the best of new york state - wiley · the best of new york state v isitors to new york state who...
TRANSCRIPT
The Best of New York State
Visitors to New York State who venture both downstate and upstate have an array ofoptions unequaled elsewhere in the country. Besides the urban allure, culture, andshopping of Manhattan, much of New York State is still, in many ways, waiting to bediscovered on a grand scale. The state is blanketed with outstanding beauty and diver-sity of scenery from one end to the other. Although New Yorkers have long vacationedin the Catskill and Adirondack mountains, for too long too few have seen too little ofthe state between its two tourist bookends, New York City and Niagara Falls. The his-toric Hudson Valley, a majestic river lined with elegant estates, is finally positioningitself as a destination, not just a day trip from the city. The great wilderness of theAdirondack and Catskill mountains is magnificent for outdoors and sporting vaca-tions, but those spots are also home to the easygoing charms of small towns. The pris-tine glacial-lake beauty and outstanding wineries of the Finger Lakes make it one ofthe state’s most deserving destinations. And Long Island is home to splendid sandyAtlantic Ocean beaches and the gulf of New York economic extremes, ranging fromblue-collar immigrant enclaves to elite summer homes in the Hamptons.
Planning a trip to a state as large and diverse as New York involves a lot of decisionmaking, so in this chapter we’ve tried to give some direction. Below we’ve chosen whatwe feel is the very best the state has to offer—the places and experiences you won’twant to miss. Although sites and activities listed here are written up in more detailelsewhere in this book, this chapter should give you an overview of New York State’shighlights and get you started planning your trip.
—Neil E. Schlecht
1
1 The Best Places to Stay• Le Parker Meridien (New York City;
& 800/543-4300): New York’s bestall-around hotel, Le Parker Meridienhas the perfect blending of style, serv-ice, and amenities. It’s the best choiceif you want a little of everything: lux-ury, high tech, family-friendly ameni-ties, comfort, and a great centrallocation. See p. 116.
• Hotel Metro (New York City; & 800/356-3870): A Midtown gem thatgives you a surprisingly good deal,plus a marble bathroom. It’s New
York City’s best moderately pricedhotel. See p. 117.
• Seatuck Cove House (Eastport; & 631/325-3300): On the edge ofthe Hamptons, this enormous Victo-rian home sits right out on the waterwith gorgeous views. And because theinn has only five rooms, you’ll feel likeyou own the place. The rooms arepainted white and decorated with anappropriately beachy feel. Four of thefive are also large enough to comfort-ably accommodate a separate sitting
05_751731 ch01.qxp 11/17/05 10:59 PM Page 5
COPYRIG
HTED M
ATERIAL
C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F N E W Y O R K S TAT E6
322
Susq
ueha
nna
R.
Susq
ueha
nna
R.
Susq
ueha
nna
R.
8686
390
81
81
80
80
86
90
90390
78
76
SARATOGA NHP
A D I R O N D A C K P A R K
C AT S K I L LP A R K
ALLEGHENYSP
ALLEGHENYSP
LETCHWORTHSP
LETCHWORTHSP
Black R.
Gen
esee R
.
Gen
esee R
.
Lamoille R.
Winooski R.
Conn
ectic
ut R
.
Mohawk R.
Hud
son
R.
Dele
ware R
.
AlleghenyR.
AlleghenyR. W
. Br. Susquehanna R.
W. Br. Susquehanna R.
Susquehanna R.
Susquehanna R.
Juni
ataR.
Juni
ataR.
L O N G I S L A N D
Chautauqua L.Chautauqua L.
Indian L.
L. Champlain
F i n g e r L a k e sF i n g e r L a k e s
Oneida L.
L a k e O n t a r i o
L a k e E r i e
Allegheny Res.Allegheny Res.
GreatSacandaga L.
17
Angola
Catskill
CoxsackieRavena
Saugerties
Hudson
Greenpoint
Bath
Clarion
Punxsutawney
Clarion
Punxsutawney
Batavia
Geneseo
CranberryLake
Speculator
Huntington
ChautauquaChautauqua RandolphRandolph
Lewiston
Ontario-on-the-Lake
Keene
Au SableForks
Auburn
CortlandOvid
Genoa
La FayetteAuburn
Brighton
Wayland
Brighton
ElmiraElmiraElmira
IthacaIthaca
Jamestown
Fredonia
Jamestown
Geneva
NewarkAlton
CanandaiguaCanandaiguaBatavia
Geneseo
Batavia
Geneseo
Corning
Hornell
Caneadea
Corning
CortlandDunkirk
Riverhead
Fredonia
Fulton
Baldwinsville
Fulton
Geneva
GreeceAlbion
Greece
Hamburg
Lockport
East Aurora
Medina
Hamburg
Hornell
Johnson City
Richford
Johnson City
Kingston
Lockport
Newark
OleanOlean
Oswego
Poughkeepsie
BeaconMiddletown
Newburgh
Peekskill
LakePlacid
TupperLake Underwood
Long Lake
Plattsburgh
Potsdam
Saratoga Springs
WilliamsportWilliamsport
Hershey
Oil City
Warren
Burlington
Ellicottville
East Aurora
Medina
Albion
Wayland
Caneadea
Ovid
Alton
Genoa
HammondsportHammondsportRichford
La Fayette
Rensselaer
Baldwinsville
Raquette
R.
Tupper L.
L. George
Corinth
Ticonderoga
Bolton Landing
Blue MountainLake
Watertown
Glens Falls
Ogdensburg
HinckleyManitouBeach
CANADA UNITED STATES
Hyde Park
White Plains
SaranacLake
Altoona
Reading
New Haven
SyracuseSyracuse
Cooperstown
Delhi
Norwich
Greene
Hancock
Monticello
Binghamton
Cheektowaga
West Seneca
Cheektowaga
Niagara FallsNiagara Falls
Windham
Middleburgh
SchenectadyTroy
Rome
OneidaCazenovia
Utica
West Seneca
Bennington
Brattleboro
Pittsfield
KingstonKingston
Irvington Long Island Sound
Springfield
Tarrytown
Jersey City
Newark NewYork City
BuffaloBuffalo
RochesterRochester
20
20A
219
62
6
62
6
15 220
6
11
11
22
322522
522
219
119422
30 219
62
HersheyHersheyHarrisburgHarrisburg
Allentown
Scranton
Wilkes-Barre
Trenton
GrotonWaterbury
Danbury
Hartford
Montpelier
Toronto�
�
C O N N E C T I C U T
M A S S A C H U S E T T S
NEWHAMPSHIRE
V E R M O N T
N E W J E R S E Y
P E N N S Y L V A N I AP E N N S Y L V A N I A
N E W Y O R K
O N T A R I OO N T A R I O
New YorkNew York
90
86
�
�
62
Interstate
Toll Highway
US Highway
State Road
State/Province Capital
National Capital
New York State
05_751731 ch01.qxp 11/17/05 10:59 PM Page 6
Susq
ueha
nna
R.
Susq
ueha
nna
R. 495
81
88
90
87
84
80
87
84
84
90
95
91
87
89
95
78 FIRE ISLAND NS
SARATOGA NHPSARATOGA NHP
A D I R O N D A C K P A R K A D I R O N D A C K P A R K
C AT S K I L LP A R K
C AT S K I L LP A R K
ALLEGHENYSP
LETCHWORTHSP
Black R.Black R.
Gen
esee R
.
Lamoille R.
Lamoille R.
Winooski R.
Winooski R.
Hou
sato
nic
R.
Conn
ectic
ut R
.
Conn
ectic
ut R
.
Mohawk R.Mohawk R.
Hud
son
R.
Hud
son
R.
Dele
ware R
.
Dele
ware R
.
AlleghenyR. W
. Br. Susquehanna R.
Susquehanna R.
Juni
ataR.
L O N G I S L A N DL O N G I S L A N D
St Lawrence
River
Black L.
Chautauqua L.
Indian L.Indian L.
L. ChamplainL. Champlain
F i n g e r L a k e s
Oneida L.Oneida L.
Allegheny Res.
GreatSacandaga L.
GreatSacandaga L.
A T L A N T I CO C E A N
Catskill
CoxsackieRavena
Saugerties
HudsonCatskill
Coxsackie
Montauk
Ravena
GreenpointGreenpoint
Saugerties
Southampton
Clarion
Punxsutawney
CranberryLake
CranberryLake
SpeculatorSpeculatorSpeculator
HuntingtonHuntington
Chautauqua RandolphHudson
KeeneKeene
Au SableForks
Au SableForks
Auburn
CortlandOvid
Genoa
La Fayette
Brighton
Wayland
Elmira
Ithaca
Jamestown
Fredonia
Geneva
NewarkAlton
CanandaiguaBatavia
Geneseo
Corning
Hornell
Caneadea
RiverheadRiverhead
Fulton
BaldwinsvilleGreece
Albion
Hamburg
Lockport
East Aurora
Medina
Johnson City
Richford
KingstonKingston
Massena
Olean
Poughkeepsie
BeaconMiddletown
Newburgh
Peekskill
Poughkeepsie
BeaconMiddletown
Newburgh
Peekskill
LakePlacid
TupperLake Underwood
Long Lake
Plattsburgh
LakePlacid
TupperLake Underwood
Long Lake
Plattsburgh
PotsdamPotsdam
Saratoga SpringsSaratoga Springs
Long Beach
Williamsport
Asbury Park
BurlingtonBurlington
Hammondsport
Roscoe
RensselaerRensselaer
Raquette
R.
Tupper L.
L. George
Corinth
Ticonderoga
Bolton Landing
Blue MountainLake
Watertown
Glens Falls
Ogdensburg
Hinckley
Raquette
R.
Tupper L.
L. George
Corinth
Ticonderoga
Bolton Landing
Blue MountainLake
Watertown
Glens Falls
Ogdensburg
Hinckley
CANADA UNITED STATES
CANADA UNITED STATES
Hyde ParkHyde Park
White PlainsWhite Plains
SaranacLake
SaranacLake
Allentown
Scranton
Wilkes-BarreBridgeport
New HavenNew Haven
Syracuse
Cooperstown
Delhi
Norwich
Greene
Hancock
Monticello
Binghamton
Cooperstown
Delhi
Norwich
Greene
Hancock
Monticello
Binghamton
Cheektowaga
West Seneca
Niagara Falls
Windham
Middleburgh
SchenectadyTroy
SchenectadyTroy
Rome
OneidaCazenovia
Utica
Rome
OneidaCazenovia
Utica
Bennington
Brattleboro
Pittsfield
Bennington
Brattleboro
Pittsfield
Kingston
Middleburgh
Windham
IrvingtonIrvington Long Island SoundLong Island Sound
SpringfieldSpringfield
TarrytownTarrytown
Jersey City
Newark NewYork City
Jersey City
Newark
Buffalo
NewYork City
Rochester
7
4
7
4
2
5
9
20
20
7
44
44
211
209
209
11
209
206
46
1202
422
6
5
Albany
HersheyHarrisburg
Allentown
Scranton
Wilkes-Barre
Allentown
Scranton
Wilkes-Barre
TrentonTrenton
GrotonWaterbury
Danbury
Hartford
GrotonWaterbury
Danbury
Hartford
MontpelierMontpelier
�
�
�
�
C O N N E C T I C U TC O N N E C T I C U T
M A S S A C H U S E T T SM A S S A C H U S E T T S
NEWHAMPSHIRE
V E R M O N T
NEWHAMPSHIRE
N E W J E R S E YN E W J E R S E Y
P E N N S Y L V A N I A
V E R M O N T
N E W Y O R KN E W Y O R K
O N T A R I O
N25 mi0
0 25 km
New York
T H E B E S T P L A C E S T O S TAY 7
05_751731 ch01.qxp 11/17/05 10:59 PM Page 7
area. Take a walk along the waterfrontor a dip in the pool, then grab one ofthe best B&B breakfasts on LongIsland. See p. 202.
• Buttermilk Falls Inn & Spa (Mil-ton-on-Hudson; & 877/746-6772):Hidden among 70 acres along theHudson River, this soothing newboutique hotel is an excellent choiceto get away from it all or to use as abase for exploring the Hudson Valleyor the eastern edges of the Catskills.Part historic inn (the main house is a1764 Colonial), part posh day spa,and part rustic retreat—with woodedtrails, waterfalls and ponds, gardens,and separate cottage houses—there’ssomething for almost everyone.Rooms are elegant without beingfussy. See p. 240.
• Mohonk Mountain House (LakeMohonk; & 800/772-6646): A leg-endary Victorian castle perched on aridge overlooking the Catskill Region’sShawangunk Mountains, the MohonkMountain House is more than a hotel,it’s a destination unto itself. Still in thehands of the original family, the whim-sical lodge lives up to its exalted repu-tation, earned over the past 130 years.In the midst of the 6,400-acre Mo-honk Forest Preserve, its setting isbeyond compare and its outdoor activ-ities include something for everyone.Rooms are decorated in Edwardian,Victorian, or Arts and Crafts style, andthe massive place is loaded with fire-places and pretty nooks. See p. 262.
• The Inn at Lake Joseph (Forestburgh;& 845/791-9506): A first-class coun-try estate in the southeastern quadrantof the Catskill region, this secludedVictorian inn is elegant and peaceful. Ithas manor-house rooms in a 19th-cen-tury summer getaway as well assplurge-friendly carriage and cottagehouses that are more like princely pri-vate apartments. See p. 286.
• The Morgan State House (Albany;& 888/427-6063): One doesn’t ordi-narily expect elegance and luxuryfrom the gritty state capital, which hasfew decent hotels, but this small inngoes against conventional wisdom. Alovely 1888 town house on “MansionRow,” it features spacious rooms thatare as luxuriously appointed as anyfive-star hotel. But it’s much moreintimate and has more flair, withbeautiful 19th-century period detailsand antiques and extraordinary linensand bedding. Sipping coffee in theserene interior garden courtyard,you’ll never know how many trench-coated bureaucrats and lobbyistshover just down the street. See p. 316.
• The Otesaga (Cooperstown; & 800/348-6222): The grande dame of cen-tral New York, dating from 1909, sitsgrandly on the shores of Lake Otsego.While renovations have broughtbathrooms and air-conditioning intothe 21st century, the hotel is firmlyrooted in the past, maintaining itshistoric feel with high ceilings, heavywooden doors, and formal furniture.Still, with a plethora of patios andbalconies, along with a renowned golfcourse and plenty of watersports, thisseasonal hotel is focused on theequally gorgeous outdoors that sur-round it. See p. 324.
• Aurora Inn (Aurora; & 866/364-8808): A mid-19th-century innsaved from demolition and given aglorious new life, this small boutiquehotel is the centerpiece of a sweet lit-tle town on the east bank of CayugaLake. The inn has stunning waterviews, superb service, rooms that aremodels of graceful interior design,and one of the most elegant restau-rants in the Finger Lakes. See p. 346.
• Hillcrest Manor (Corning; & 607/936-4548): A new and splendidlyrefined B&B in a gateway town to
C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F N E W Y O R K S TAT E8
05_751731 ch01.qxp 11/17/05 10:59 PM Page 8
the Finger Lakes, this gorgeous 1890Greek Revival mansion is minutesfrom downtown and the world-renowned Corning Museum of Glassin a peaceful residential neighbor-hood. The opulent inn, owned bytwo art collectors who are new toCorning, features eminently tastefulparlors and very spacious bedrooms.Few inns can match this level ofsophistication and luxury, and fewerstill for the relatively affordable pricesyou’ll find here. See p. 356.
• Hobbit Hollow Farm B&B(Skaneateles; & 315/685-2791):Overlooking graceful SkaneatelesLake, this sumptuous and intimatesmall inn gives you a chance to makebelieve that you’re a privileged coun-try gentleman or -woman relaxing onyour horse farm. The century-oldColonial Revival, ensconced on 400acres with panoramic lake views, is asluxurious and attentive to detail asthey come. Rooms are charminglyelegant; for those on a budget, thesmaller rooms are a decent value andyou can still imagine yourself theprince of Skaneateles. See p. 387.
• Sherwood Inn (Skaneateles; & 800/3-SHERWOOD): Occupying a primeposition in the most delightful town inthe Finger Lakes, this longtime inn—a stagecoach stop from the early 19thcentury—looks out onto SkaneatelesLake and exudes a relaxed, genteelfeel. The old staircase, wide-plankfloorboards, and colorfully designedrooms may seem Old World and oldmoney, but travelers can stay for mod-erate prices. It also features a very nicerestaurant and tavern, both of whichgaze out onto the lake. See p. 388.
• Lake Placid Lodge (Lake Placid; & 877/523-2700): Awash in rusticluxury, the lodge is the quintessentialAdirondacks experience. Sitting onthe shores of secluded Lake Placid,this exclusive getaway features metic-ulous and personalized service, alongwith rooms filled with one-of-a-kindpieces of furniture, many built bylocal artists from birch or cedar (andfor sale!). With lots of quiet nooksand a gorgeous stone patio, you cangrab your own piece of the ’dacks andfeel like you have the place to your-self. See p. 408.
• The Sagamore (Lake George; & 800/358-3585): One of the last grandAdirondack lodges still standing, this1883 hotel sits on its own island inLake George and comes with a stellarrestaurant, a great spa, a terrific golfcourse, a wonderful waterfront, andloads of amenities. While a confer-ence area keeps it open in the winter,this is mostly a summertime resort,where you’ll have your pick of roomstyles, restaurants (there are six), andactivities—and you can always justgrab an Adirondack chair and sit outon the patio overlooking the lake. Seep. 400.
• The Mansion on Delaware (Buffalo;& 716/886-3300): This renovatedmansion on Millionaire’s Row blendsin so well with the gorgeous privatehomes around it you’d never evenguess it was a hotel. Inside, you’ll findultramodern (but comfy) furniture,luxurious (and huge) bathrooms, andultrapersonalized service. Roomshave been styled around the existingmansion, creating unique spaces andthe city’s most unique property. Seep. 432.
T H E B E S T P L A C E S T O S TAY 9
05_751731 ch01.qxp 11/17/05 10:59 PM Page 9
C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F N E W Y O R K S TAT E10
2 The Best Restaurants• Aquavit (New York City; & 212/
307-7311): Scandinavian seafooddishes that will frequent your day-dreams. The restaurant moved fromits intimate town-house setting, butthe food and service are just as spec-tacular as before, if not better. Enjoythe herring plate with a glass of Aqua-vit (distilled liquors not unlike vodka,flavored with fruit and spices) and afrosty Carlsberg beer. See p. 132.
• Peter Luger (Great Neck; & 516/487-8800): Hands down, one of thebest steakhouses in the country. Andpeople flock here for one thing andone thing only: porterhouse. In fact,if you try to order anything else (oreven ask for a menu), you’ll likely geta quizzical stare from your waiter.The dry-aged meat comes brushedwith a tasty glaze and is tenderenough to make vegetarians recon-sider. See p. 181.
• Culinary Institute of America(CIA) (Hyde Park; & 845/471-6608): The most elite trainingground in the country for chefs hasnot one but four on-campus restau-rants run by students—but they’re afar cry from what college studentstypically eat. Choose among thesophisticated Escoffier Restaurant(French), Ristorante Caterina deMedici (Italian), American BountyRestaurant (regional American), andSt. Andrew’s Café (casual). You’ll beimpressed and unsurprised that somany of America’s finest restaurantshave CIA chefs at the helm. Planahead, though, because reservationsare about as tough to come by asadmission to the school. See p. 241.
• The Valley Restaurant at The Gar-rison (Garrison; & 845/424-2339):Ensconced within the gently rollinggrounds of a golf course high abovethe Hudson Valley, this understated
but quietly creative restaurant hasquickly become one of the finest inthe valley. Its seasonal Americanmenu features the best from localHudson Valley farms, and its winecellar is peerless in the region. Whilegolfers munch on simple fare nextdoor at World’s End Bar, the diningroom draws foodies from New YorkCity and around the region who areanxious to check out this buzz restau-rant. See p. 228.
• Depuy Canal House (High Falls; & 845/687-7700): A fabulously cre-ative restaurant in a lovely, rambling200-year-old stone tavern in theCatskills, Depuy Canal House is thelongtime standard bearer in this partof upstate New York: It draws foodiesfrom New York City and around thestate for elegant and surprising selec-tions served in a perfectly elegant butrustic setting. If you’ve brought anempty stomach and full wallet, checkout the four- or seven-course prix-fixedinners; otherwise drop in to themore casual downstairs bistro in thewine cellar. See p. 263.
• Chez Sophie Bistro (Malta Ridge;& 518/583-3538): Saratoga Springsis stocked with a number of excellentrestaurants, but certainly the mostunique is this charming French bistrohoused in a 1950s stainless-steeldiner, about 5 miles from downtown.The original Sophie became some-thing of a local culinary legend, andher son is now the chef, continuing hismom’s simple but refined approachand bringing French sophistication toupstate New York. The creative menuuses the best local ingredients andorganic produce, meats, and fish.One of the best bargains around isthe “pink plate special,” a three-course meal for just $25. See p. 303.
05_751731 ch01.qxp 11/17/05 10:59 PM Page 10
• Alex & Ika (Cherry Valley; & 607/264-9315): You’d never guess thatthis tiny, unassuming building in tinyCherry Valley, about 15 miles northof Cooperstown, turns out some ofthe most amazing flavor combina-tions in the state. Open only on theweekends, this laid-back cuisine magicshow is run by a couple that servesfood packed with so many flavorcombinations you’ll be talking aboutthe food long after you leave. With amenu that changes weekly, it’s hard tobelieve they can hit a home run withevery dish, but somehow they do. Seep. 326.
• Suzanne Fine Regional Cuisine(Hector; & 607/582-7545): Suzanne’slooks like a harbinger of the future inthe Finger Lakes—fine dining toaccompany the region’s swiftly improv-ing wines. Meticulously crafted Amer-ican food, using the finest localingredients, is the calling card at thissophisticated but relaxed country-ele-gant spot, in an old farmhouse withswoon-worthy views of Seneca Lake.Though it’s only been around a shorttime, I’ve already heard of visitorswho will go nowhere else. See p. 352.
• The Dining Room at Mirbeau Inn &Spa (Skaneateles; & 877/MIRBEAU):
Though part of a stylish and swankyspa boutique hotel in Skaneateles, thisrestaurant manages to shine in its ownright. The romantic grounds evoke theProvence countryside, and the diningroom wouldn’t be out of place in thatregion of sophisticated eaters. Theprix-fixe menus are calibrated to showoff the young chef ’s creativity and art-fully prepared dishes. See p. 388.
• Jacques Cartier (Riveredge Hotel,Alexandria Bay; & 800/ENJOY-US):This seasonal French-Americanrestaurant, on the St. Lawrence Riverin the Thousand Islands, combines astunning view of Boldt Castle witheven more stunning cuisine. Dishescome infused with so many flavors,you’ll spend half the meal just tryingto discern them all. Go at sunset towatch the sky turn red as it sets overthe Canadian plain. See p. 422.
• Nicola’s On Main (Lake Placid; & 518/523-5583): Nicola’s hasrecently moved to a new locationdown the street, but this is still LakePlacid’s best pasta, bar none. It’sfresh, delicious, comes in copiousamounts, and is served up in a hipatmosphere that’s been the scene intown for years. See p. 411.
T H E B E S T P L A C E S F O R A N T I Q U E S H O U N D S 11
3 The Best Places for Antiques Hounds• Jamesport: You may miss tiny James-
port, on Long Island’s North Fork, ifyou blink, but keep your eyes openlong enough and you’ll see a MainStreet lined with antiques shops.There’s the usual assortment of furni-ture and books, and a selection ofnautical items to remind you of thearea’s history as a fishing community.See chapter 7.
• Locust Valley: Most antiques huntershead to Port Jefferson, farther east onLong Island’s north shore. And that’sexactly why you should hit this tiny
town that’s not even on manymaps—their goods are less pickedover and the antiques are of an excel-lent quality. See chapter 7.
• Hudson: This formerly run-downtown along the Upper Hudson hasexploded with high-end and eclecticantiques shops, making it theantiquing destination of the HudsonRiver Valley. Almost all the dealersare confined to the long stretch ofWarren Street, making it ideal forwindow-shopping. See chapter 8.
05_751731 ch01.qxp 11/17/05 10:59 PM Page 11
• Bloomfield Antique Country Mile:Just west of Canandaigua, this mile-long cluster of antiques dealers alongRoutes 5 and 20 in Bloomfield is one of the best concentrations forantiquing in the Finger Lakes, withseveral multidealer shops lined upback-to-back. See chapter 12.
• East Aurora: This town outside Buf-falo hosts a wealth of craftspeople,not technically sellers of antiques,
who make furniture in the 100-year-old style of famed builder ElbertHubbard. His movement of Roy-crofters created some of the sturdiestand most beautiful pieces of woodenfurniture anywhere, and while it’spossible to find originals, you’ll morelikely find work from the expertbuilders who follow Hubbard’s style.See chapter 14.
C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F N E W Y O R K S TAT E12
4 The Best Hikes• Mashomack Preserve, Shelter Island:
With more than 2,000 pristine acres inthe southeastern part of the island, thispreserve, run by the Nature Conser-vancy, is about as remote as you can geton Long Island. There are 11 miles ofeasy hiking trails that run through theoak woodlands, marshes, ponds, andcreeks. Keep an eye out for osprey, ibis,foxes, harbor seals, and terrapins. Seechapter 7.
• Hudson River Valley: Though theHudson Valley is more hilly thanmountainous, tucked in the southernhighlands are several excellent spotsfor day hikes. Hudson HighlandsState Park near Cold Spring containsa number of great day trails, as doBear Mountain and Harriman stateparks, including on a section of theAppalachian Trail. Many are surpris-ingly challenging. See chapter 8.
• Catskill Region: Some of the mostscenic hiking in New York State isthrough the dense forests and alongthe stony ridges lacing the Catskills,where there are nearly three dozenpeaks above 3,500 feet. The 6,000-acre Mohonk Preserve, part of theShawangunk Mountains, has 60 milesof trails. Nearby Minnewaska StatePark Preserve offers another 12,000acres perfect for hiking and mountainbiking, with 30 miles of footpaths andcarriage-ways. See chapter 9.
• Southern Adirondacks: How adven-turesome are you feeling? Head toLake George for a crazy steep climbup Black Mountain, an 81⁄2-mileround-trip with a 1,100-foot verticalrise, for some amazing views of thelake and mountains. If you want agreat view without so much work,Bald Mountain, east of Old Forge, isalso steep but much shorter (2 milesround-trip). For a hike back in thewoods, check out Cascade Lake, justnorth of Eagle Bay. It’s an easy 5-milewalk to the lake that takes you past agorgeous waterfall. See chapter 13.
• Northern Adirondacks: New YorkState’s highest peak is Mount Marcy,at 5,344 feet. It’s not the easiestclimb, but for anyone with aspira-tions to nab the state’s highest spot,it’s a must. Just watch out for crowds:Most people hike to the peak fromthe north, but take the Range Trailand you’ll find fewer people and bet-ter views along the way. For an easierhike, check out High Falls Gorge,which offers a great and easy strollalong the Ausable River and pastwaterfalls. See chapter 13.
• Letchworth State Park: This westernNew York park is home to a stunning400-foot-deep gorge with all sorts ofhiking trails taking you past views ofthe deep chasm that’s cut by theGenesee River. There trails go either
05_751731 ch01.qxp 11/17/05 10:59 PM Page 12
deep into the forest or along the rimof the canyon; the Gorge Trail hitsthe most scenic spots. It’s a 7-miletrail one-way, and moderately diffi-cult, but, of course, you can turn
around at any time. Take the kidsalong the Pond Trail, an easy .75-milewalk that leads you to a small pondstocked with fish. See chapter 14.
T H E B E S T FA M I LY V A C AT I O N S P O T S 13
5 The Best Family Vacation Spots• Shelter Island: Hardly the raging
party scene that exists in the nearbyHamptons, Shelter Island makes for aquiet family retreat on the easternend of Long Island. Hike, boat, orjust relax. And since it’s an island,there are very few ways to escape,meaning that—for better or worse—on this family vacation you’ll alwaysbe together. See chapter 7.
• Mount Tremper & Phoenicia: Thisspot in the southeastern Catskills—two small towns bunched together offthe main road—serves up a surprisingroster of activities for families. InMount Tremper, at Catskill Corner,the Kaatskill Kaleidoscope Theatre isthe world’s largest kaleidoscope, occu-pying an old barn silo. Shows are sim-ilar to those kids have seen in aplanetarium, but even cooler. InPhoenicia, just a couple of miles upthe road, families can rent inner tubesand float down Esopus Creek, whichslices the valley between toweringmountains. The Catskill MountainRailroad runs along Esopus Creekfrom the Mount Pleasant depot toPhoenicia’s 1910 station; you caneven float down in a tube and catchthe train back. See chapter 9.
• Healing Waters Farm/Delaware &Ulster Railride: A fantastic farm inWalton, in the northeastern Catskills,Healing Waters overflows with coolthings for kids. Its petting zoo, LittleBoy Blue Animal Land, has an amaz-ing array of gregarious animals,including camels, llamas, emus, andbaby goats, and the farm holds allkinds of special events as well as
hayrides. In Arkville the Delaware &Ulster Railride transports visitorsthrough the Catskill Mountains in ahistoric train that departs from theold depot. Kids will especially lovethe special “Great Train Robbery”train, where costumed actors play-fully hijack and “rob” the train. Seechapter 9.
• Saratoga Springs: This genteel resorttown welcomes families with its plen-itude of parks, the Saratoga Children’sMuseum, and Saratoga Springs SpaState Park, a huge and lovely urbanpark with miles of hiking trails, swim-ming pools, and a skating rink. Butsurely the most entertaining featurefor kids is the Saratoga Race Courseand the opportunity to attend a thor-oughbred-horse race. Kids can take awalking tour of the stables and a tramride, observe a starting-gate demon-stration, and learn how horses andjockeys prepare for races, even dress-ing up like a jockey. See chapter 10.
• Rochester: As the northeastern gate-way to the Finger Lakes, this amiableupstate city overflows with fine familyoptions. With Ontario lake beaches, a96-foot urban waterfall in the HighFalls Historic District, and proximityto watersports at any of the FingerLakes, it has plenty of good outdoorfeatures. But it also has three indoorspots with huge appeal to families,including the Strong Museum, one ofthe top children’s museums in thecountry; the George Eastman House,a museum of photography in thehome belonging to the founder ofKodak, where kids can inspect antique
05_751731 ch01.qxp 11/17/05 10:59 PM Page 13
cameras and make filmstrips and sunprints; and Genesee Country Village& Museum, a re-creation of a 19th-century village staffed by interpretersin period costume who bring the1800s to life with demonstrations ofyesteryear crafts. See chapter 12.
• Skaneateles: This charming village atthe north shore of the Finger Lake ofthe same name has tons of shops,restaurants, and inns that parents willlove, but also plenty of activities forthe entire family. In summer childrenare sure to love the nostalgic long pierthat extends over the water, as well asswimming and boating in one of thestate’s most beautiful lakes. But bestof all are the winter holidays, whenSkaneateles comes alive with a Dick-ens Christmas celebration, with cos-tumed Dickens characters taking overthe streets, singing Christmas carols.There are free carriage rides aroundtown, free roasted chestnuts, and hotchocolate. A good excursion from
Skaneateles is the easy drive intoSyracuse to visit the Museum of Sci-ence & Technology (MOST), whoseexcellent interactive exhibits andIMAX theater are huge hits with kids.See chapter 12.
• Lake George: This southern Adiron-dacks town is hardly a calm getaway inthe summer, but it boasts distractionsgalore for kids, including amusementparks, haunted houses, family restau-rants, and all the lake swimming youcan handle. See chapter 13.
• Niagara Falls: It isn’t just for honey-mooners anymore—it’s also jammedwith families. The famous cascadingwater appeals to people of all ages,and you can see it from high above,behind, or way down below on theever-popular Maid of the Mist. Butover on the Canadian side in theClifton Hill area is where your kidswill really want to go: There you’llfind haunted houses, rides, and funmuseums. See chapter 14.
C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F N E W Y O R K S TAT E14
6 The Best Places for Watersports• North Fork: The protected waters of
Long Island Sound (to the north ofthe fork) and Peconic Bay (to thesouth) make for the perfect place tohead out with a boat. Whether it’s acanoe, kayak, jet ski, or powerboat,you’ll cruise around on relativelycalm waters while keeping an eye outfor herons, osprey, hawks, fish, andturtles. See chapter 7.
• Hudson River: One of the best waysto see the Hudson River, America’sfirst highway and one of the greatrivers in the nation, is from the mid-dle of it: on a boat. You can board asightseeing cruise at Rondout Land-ing in Kingston on the Rip Van Win-kle, in Newburgh on The Pride of theHudson, or take a sunset cruise aboardDoxie, a 31-foot sloop or traditional-style yacht. See chapter 8.
• Delaware River: The western Cat-skills are one of North America’s topfishing destinations, drawing seriousanglers from around the world. Fly-fishing is legendary along theDelaware River and nearby Beaverkilland Willowemoc trout streams. Thejunction pool at Hancock, where theeast and west branches join to formthe main stem of the Delaware River,has long been celebrated for its pre-ponderance of massive brown andrainbow trout. Pepacton Reservoir,also in the western Catskills, is per-fect for open-water brown trout fish-ing. See chapter 9.
• Finger Lakes & Erie Canal: Thegorgeous Finger Lakes are incrediblyscenic spots for boating, water-skiing,and sailing. Seneca Lake has a pic-ture-perfect port where you can hire a
05_751731 ch01.qxp 11/17/05 10:59 PM Page 14
yacht or sailboat, including a vintage1930 schooner yacht. At Keuka Lake,held by many locals to be the pretti-est of the Finger Lakes, there are boatcruises aboard the Keuka Maid. Atseveral Finger Lakes, you can alsorent kayaks and canoes if you’re look-ing for an even more intimate experi-ence on the water. Skaneateles Lakehas one of the longest cruise boat tra-ditions in the region, and the lake isperfect for relaxed sightseeing anddinner cruises; for something evenmore novel, you can hop a U.S. Mailboat as it delivers mail to old-fash-ioned camps on the lake. Almost asunique is a cruise along the historicErie Canal, which once ran unim-peded from the Great Lakes to theHudson; boaters can pull up alongthe canal in Seneca Falls and dock forlunch, or even sleep along the canalin a houseboat. See chapter 12.
• Alexandria Bay, Thousand Islands:The miles-wide St. Lawrence River,dotted with somewhere between1,000 and 1,800 islands, comes tailor-made for watersports. Tool around in
a powerboat, canoe, or kayak andcheck out the castles and mansionsthat some of America’s wealthiest fam-ilies have built. Just watch out fortankers and other big ships—this isone of America’s busiest shippinglanes! See chapter 13.
• Lake George: Peppered with islandssmall and large, 32-mile-long LakeGeorge offers endless exploration,whether you’re in a canoe, kayak,powerboat, or paddle-wheel tourboat. Get out and experience thethrill of water-skiing, or just kickback and paddle quietly along theshores. Rent boats in the town ofLake George or in Bolton Landing.See chapter 13.
• Mirror Lake, Lake Placid: Thislake, surrounded by the gorgeouspeaks of the Adirondacks, comes tolife in the summer with all kinds ofboats plying the waters. The onlydrawback is that while it’s supercon-venient (Lake Placid sits right aboveit), it can get a little too crowded. Seechapter 13.
T H E B E S T O N E - O F - A - K I N D E X P E R I E N C E S 15
7 The Best One-of-a-Kind Experiences• Walking the Brooklyn Bridge: One
of the great New York activities of alltime. The skyline view headingtoward Manhattan from Brooklyn isunparalleled. The walk takes 20 to 40minutes, depending on your pace,and every minute on this 19th-cen-tury architectural marvel is exhilarat-ing. See chapter 6.
• Sleeping in a Historic Lighthouse:Several hotels tout their proximity tothe Hudson River, but in the UpperHudson Valley, you can sleep at the1869 Saugerties Lighthouse (& 845/247-0656), which functions as aB&B and is perched at water’s edge.The only way to get to it is to walk along a mile-long trail through
wood- and wetlands. Although you’llhave to share a bathroom, accommo-dations are nicer than you mightexpect, and there’s a full kitchen (if youdon’t want to bring in groceries, arearestaurants will deliver). See chapter 9.
• Reliving America’s Glory Days:Vintage “base ball,” a nostalgic sportplayed by old-school traditionalistspartial to the 19th-century rules anduniforms of America’s classic sport, isplayed in several parts of New York.In Roxbury, in the northwest CatskillRegion, locals take it especially seri-ously. The best time to see a game ison Labor Day, when the RoxburyNine hosts a home game and thetown celebrates “Turn of the Century
05_751731 ch01.qxp 11/17/05 10:59 PM Page 15
Day.” Locals turn out in period cos-tume, and the opposing team arrivesby vintage train. See chapter 9.
• Attending a Baseball Hall of FameInduction Ceremony: Every July anew generation of players is trans-formed from mortal to legendary asinductees take their place alongsideRuth, Gehrig, and the other greats inCooperstown’s Hall of Fame. Seechapter 11.
• Gorging on Grape Pie in Naples,Finger Lakes Region: There’s a rea-son grape pie hasn’t earned a spotalongside apple, cherry, and peach inthe pie pantheon: It’s just too labori-ous to peel the grapes. But every yearon the last weekend in September,the attractive little village of Naplesnear Keuka Lake becomes the grape-pie capital of the world; nearly every-one seems to be selling, buying, andeating them. Grape fanatics and piepilgrims come from all over to attendthe Naples Grape Festival and stuffthemselves silly with grape pie. Seechapter 12.
• Soaring the Friendly Skies: TheFinger Lakes are gorgeous from anyangle, but a bird’s-eye perspective—in a vintage warplane or a silent gliderplane—is just about one of the mostunique experiences to be had in NewYork State. At the National WarplaneMuseum, near Elmira, you can taketo the sky in a PT-17 or even a B-17bomber. And at the nearby National
Soaring Museum, visitors can climbaboard sailplanes for peaceful, quietrides that soar above the valleysaround Corning. See chapter 12.
• Ice-Skating on the Olympic Rink,Lake Placid: Slip on your silver skatesand take to the same rink where EricHeiden won his gold medals in the1980 Olympics. It’s a public rink, sothere’s no pressure to race, just glide atyour leisure while taking in themajesty of the surrounding Adiron-dacks. See chapter 13.
• Eating Chicken Wings in the PlaceThey Were Invented: It was a snowynight back in the ’60s when the own-ers of Buffalo’s Anchor Bar dumpedsome chicken parts into a deep fryerand served them with blue cheese andcelery. The rest, as they say, is history.You can still sample the original recipein the divey bar where they became anAmerican staple. See p. 435.
• Watching Fireworks over NiagaraFalls: On the Canadian side of thefalls every Friday and Sunday fromMay to September, there’s a concertfrom 8 to 10pm, followed by anamazing show as the sky lights upwith fireworks and colored lightsshine on the cascading water. Notgoing during the summer? No wor-ries: You can see the falls lit up everynight of the year. Walk along the rail-ing of the Canadian side for the bestview. See chapter 14.
C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F N E W Y O R K S TAT E16
8 The Best Historic Places• Sagamore Hill, Oyster Bay:
Theodore Roosevelt’s summer WhiteHouse still stands out on his belovedstretch of earth overlooking LongIsland Sound. The decor of this 23-room Victorian estate reflects thepresident’s travels with the RoughRiders; it’s jammed with animalskins, heads, and exotic treasures
from East Africa to the Amazon. Seechapter 7.
• Hudson Valley’s Great Estates:American history was made up anddown the Hudson River, and not justat Revolutionary War battle sites. The grand estates of important liter-ary figures, railroad magnates, andfinance barons—including Washington
05_751731 ch01.qxp 11/17/05 10:59 PM Page 16
Irving’s Sleepy Hollow, the LyndhurstEstate, the Rockefeller Family’sKykuit Estate, and the VanderbiltMansion—are lasting portraits of ayoung country’s great expansion andriches at the height of the IndustrialAge. History lessons that go to thecore of the country’s development aresensitively presented at the Philips-burg Manor, an 18th-century farmthat serves as a living-history museumabout slavery in the North, while theFDR Presidential Library and Homeand Eleanor Roosevelt’s Val-Kill Cot-tage in Hyde Park document anothercrucial period in the country’s morerecent history. See chapter 8.
• Huguenot Street Stone Houses,New Paltz: Founded in 1678, NewPaltz is built around one of the oldeststreets of surviving stone houses inNorth America. Along HuguenotStreet are a half-dozen original Colo-nial-era stone houses built by Frenchreligious refugees, the ProtestantHuguenots. The earliest was built in1692, and all have been restored withperiod furnishings and heirlooms andoperate as house museums (butguided tours of the houses are con-ducted in summer months only). Seechapter 9.
• Seneca Falls: The small town ofSeneca Falls is where the women’s andcivil rights movements got their startin the mid–19th century. The firstWomen’s Rights Convention washeld here in 1848, and today the
Women’s Rights National HistoricalPark, a national park, is a museumerected next to the chapel wherebrave activists like Elizabeth CadyStanton, Lucretia Mott, and Freder-ick Douglass formalized the women’srights and abolitionist movementsthat would ultimately redefine theconcept of individual liberty. Otherimportant historic sites in the area,such as the Elizabeth Cady StantonHouse, are part of a “Women’s RightsTrail.” See chapter 12.
• Great Camp Sagamore: Back whenwealthy industrialists were exploringthe concept of leisure travel, they dis-covered the Adirondacks. Of course,“roughing it” to the Vanderbilts wasn’t exactly sleeping in a lean-to.This camp, 4 miles south of RaquetteLake, is a 27-building “Great Camp”filled with rustic luxury—there’s evena bowling alley. Today you can checkout what this camp in the woods wasall about. See chapter 13.
• Downtown Buffalo: It’s hard tobelieve that 100 years ago this areawas home to more millionaires percapita than anywhere else in the U.S.Fortunately, those wealthy industrial-ists left behind a wonderful architec-tural legacy, and buildings designedby the likes of E. B. Green and H. H.Richardson still grace the city’s sky-line. From City Hall to the amazingEllicott Square building, it’s worthwalking around downtown andchecking out the sites. See chapter 14.
T H E B E S T P L A C E S T O C O M M U N E W I T H N AT U R E 17
9 The Best Places to Commune with Nature• Fire Island, Long Island: This slen-
der island protecting the mainland isreplete with trees, wilderness, andone entire side of gorgeous golden-sand beach. Best of all, cars aren’tallowed, meaning bikes and little redwagons are the only things that canrun you over. And because the island
is 32 miles long but just a half-milewide, you’re never more than a shortwalk from the ocean’s waves andbeach. For a truly remote wildernessexperience, head to the eastern end,where it’ll likely just be you and thedeer drinking in the gorgeous envi-ronment. See chapter 7.
05_751731 ch01.qxp 11/17/05 10:59 PM Page 17
• Mashomack Preserve: With morethan 2,000 pristine acres in thesoutheastern part of Shelter Island,this preserve, run by the Nature Con-servancy, is about as remote as youcan get on Long Island. There are 11miles of easy hiking trails that runthrough the oak woodlands, marshes,ponds, and creeks. Keep an eye outfor osprey, ibis, foxes, harbor seals,and terrapins. See chapter 7.
• Kaaterskill Falls: The CatskillMountains are all about the greatoutdoors, providing tons of invita-tions to hike, bike, ski, boat, and fish.But one of those unique spots whereeveryone is sure to feel just a littlecloser to nature is Kaaterskill Falls,the highest waterfall in New YorkState. It’s not nearly as powerful andmassive as Niagara Falls, though it isindeed higher. An easy but beautifulwalk, wending along a flowing creek,takes you to the bottom of the falls.The truly adventurous can scale thesides of the cliff and climb up to theshelf that runs right behind the falls.Another great vantage point is fromthe top of the falls, where a short pathdelivers you right to the edge of thesheer drop. See chapter 9.
• Montezuma National WildlifeRefuge, Finger Lakes Region:Smack in the middle of the AtlanticMigratory Flyway, at the north end ofCayuga Lake, this 7,000-acre wet-lands nature park, established in1938, is superb for birding and aspectacular nature experience forfamilies. The marshes draw thou-sands of Canada geese, blue herons,egrets, wood ducks, and other waterbirds on their sojourns from nestingareas in Canada, reaching temporary
populations as great as two millionbirds during the fall and springmigrations. You can drive, cycle, orwalk along a road that takes you upclose and personal with birds andother creatures. Even “off season” it’sa great spot, and if you’re lucky, youmay glimpse a bald eagle’s nest. Seechapter 12.
• Watkins Glen State Park: There aretoo many great nature spots in theFinger Lakes to even begin to discussor hope to visit on a single trip, start-ing with the sinewy lakes themselves,but this 776-acre park is surely at thetop of any list. Its centerpiece is anamazing slate gorge carved out of theearth at the end of the last ice age,gradually shaped by the waters of GlenCreek. Along the beautiful walkingtrails are 19 waterfalls. See chapter 12.
• St. Regis Canoe Wilderness: It’s noteasy these days to find a single bodyof water expressly reserved for non-motorized boats, and it’s even harderto find several bodies of water for thecanoer/kayaker. But this remote area,tucked deep in the heart of theAdirondacks, is just that. Take yourboat out on these waters and it’lllikely just be you and the birds as youcruise quietly through this amazingbackcountry. See chapter 13.
• Navy Island, Niagara Falls area,Canada: It’s hard to believe thatthere’s a place to get away from thecrowds of Niagara Falls, but those inthe know head to this undeveloped,quiet island at the northern tip ofGrand Island. You’ll see tons of deerand bird life, along with oak, hickory,and wild raspberries. It’s a great spotfor fishing, too. Just watch out for thepoison ivy. See chapter 14.
C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F N E W Y O R K S TAT E18
05_751731 ch01.qxp 11/17/05 10:59 PM Page 18
T H E B E S T F O U R - S E A S O N T O W N S 19
10 The Best Leaf-Peeping• Hudson River Valley: Fall is one of
the best times to visit the HudsonValley. Temperatures are perfect, thegreat estates, many of them setamong large old trees, gardens, andwith gorgeous views of the Hudson,are splendid for aesthetic visits. Thelight is always great on the Hudson,but it’s really special during the fall.See chapter 8.
• Catskill Region: Pick a county andgo on a hike. Or kayak down theDelaware River. This extremely ruralregion is ideal for fall leaf-peeping. It’sfull of dairy farms and farmers mar-kets, emboldened by mountains andlaced with lakes. The dense CatskillForest Preserve is a kaleidoscope ofcolor in autumn. See chapter 9.
• Finger Lakes Region: Autumn inthe Finger Lakes Region is impossiblyscenic, with the golden hues of vine-yards that grace the banks of deep-blue slivers of lakes, set off againstautumnal colors. It’s a perfect time to
visit the excellent wineries, take aboat cruise, or bike around the lakes.See chapter 12.
• Warrensburg to Indian Lake: Thisdrive north nets you some amazingscenery and even more amazing fallcolors. From I-87, take Route 73through Keene Valley and Keene andyou’ll head straight into the Adiron-dack High Peaks area, one of themost scenic in the state, even withoutfall colors. You’ll see mountainsablaze with oranges and reds; onceyou hit Lake Placid, go north onRoute 86 and you’ll be driving alongthe west branch of the Ausable River,also bright with color. See chapter 13.
• Letchworth State Park: Long andslender, the park’s central feature is a400-foot-deep cavern; the water fromthe Genesee River feeds tons of decid-uous trees that absolutely light up withcolor during the fall. Go on a hikedeep in the woods or see it all fromabove in a balloon. See chapter 14.
11 The Best Four-Season Towns• Saratoga Springs: Although sum-
mer’s the star in Saratoga, this smallcity is also an excellent year-rounddestination. In warm months theone-time “Queen of the Spas” seesthoroughbred racing at the famedRace Course, where the season lastsfrom the end of July to Labor Day;open-air concerts in the park; theNew York City Ballet and Philadel-phia Orchestra in residence; as well asboating and fishing on Saratoga Lake.However, Saratoga is eminentlyenjoyable in spring, fall, and evenwinter. This “city in the country” hasgreat restaurants and inns, a handfulof small, family-friendly museums,and Saratoga Spa State Park, wherevisitors can take long walks among
the spring blossoms or fall foliage orenjoy cross-country skiing and ice-skating in the middle of winter. Seechapter 10.
• Ithaca: This college town is a greatplace to visit no matter the season,with a varied menu of sports and cul-ture available year-round. The greathikes along Cayuga Lake and tonearby gorges are perfect ways toenjoy spring, summer, and fall. Cor-nell University’s attractions, includ-ing the Herbert F. Johnson Museumof Art and Cornell Plantations’botanical garden, wildflower garden,and arboretum, can easily be enjoyedat any time of year. Ithaca is one ofthe most cosmopolitan small townsin New York State, with a great roster
05_751731 ch01.qxp 11/17/05 10:59 PM Page 19
of restaurants and theaters. Thenearby wineries of the Cayuga WineTrail make great visits in any season(though they’re perhaps best in fallduring harvest). The highest free-falling waterfall in the eastern U.S, atTaughannock Falls State Park, is bestviewed in spring and fall but not insummer, when there is often very lit-tle water. In winter there’s nearbydownhill skiing and tons of cross-country skiing. See chapter 12.
• Lake Placid: In the summer, goboating on Mirror Lake, hike themany trails just outside town, orcanoe along your own quiet stretch oflake. In winter things really swing:
The home of two Olympic Games,Placid offers the opportunity to skiWhiteface Mountain, ice-skate, trythe bobsled run, or go dog-sleddingon Mirror Lake. See chapter 13.
• Buffalo: Okay, it might be a littlecrazy to visit Buffalo in the depths ofsnowy winter, but things never shutdown here. At any time of year, youcan walk (or drive) downtown tocheck out the city’s gorgeous architec-ture, stroll through its amazingAlbright-Knox Art Gallery, take in aprofessional football or hockey game,and finish off the day with an orderof chicken wings in the bar wherethey were invented. See chapter 14.
C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F N E W Y O R K S TAT E20
12 The Most Adorable Towns• Greenport: This is the cutest town
on Long Island’s North Fork. Filledwith Colonial buildings, inns, homes,and shops, the town sits right on theprotected waters of Peconic Bay.There’s a strong sense of the town’shistory as a fishing village, with thesmell of salt in the air, but there arealso nice galleries and restaurants thatline Main Street. See chapter 7.
• Cold Spring: Perhaps the most visi-tor-friendly small town on the Hud-son, warm and inviting Cold Springhas something for everyone. The his-toric waterfront, equipped with aVictorian band shell and parkbenches, has unequaled views of theHudson River; Main Street is packedwith antiques shops, cafes, andrestaurants; and the nearby moun-tains are perfect for surprisingly rig-orous hikes. Cold Spring’s withineasy reach of lots of historic estatesalong the river, and the town’s excel-lent handful of restaurants and innscould easily entice you to a muchlonger stay than you might haveplanned. See chapter 8.
• Aurora: A tiny, picture-perfect villagehugging the east shore of CayugaLake, Aurora, now in the throes offull-scale revitalization, could be amovie set. It pretty much consists ofa main street, village market, pizzarestaurant, an ice-cream parlor, a his-toric inn, a whimsical ceramics fac-tory, and a women’s college. Thetown owes its startling makeover tothe efforts of the Aurora Foundation,set up by a single benefactor whomade it big with American Girl dollsand set about overseeing the restora-tion of the village’s historic buildings,including the beautiful 1833 AuroraInn (like the town, on the NationalRegister of Historic Places). Visitingthe campus of ceramics makerMacKenzie-Childs is about as closeto a Willy Wonka wonderland asyou’re likely to come. See chapter 12.
• Cooperstown: This chain-store-freetown is best known for being hometo the Baseball Hall of Fame. But sit-ting on the shores of Lake Otsego, it’salso one of the state’s cutest smalltowns. Tiny buildings and shops line
05_751731 ch01.qxp 11/17/05 10:59 PM Page 20
the small Main Street, which you canwalk the length of in just a few min-utes. You’ll find cute inns, goodrestaurants, and plenty of baseball-card shops; then walk down to thewater and have a picnic lunch over-looking the quiet, undeveloped lake.See chapter 11.
• Skaneateles: They don’t come anycuter (or harder to pronounce) thanthis graceful town, which is morereminiscent of New England thanupstate New York. The historicdowntown, an attractive mix of 19th-century Greek Revival and Victorianhomes and appetizing boutiques andantiques shops lining East Genesee
Street, sits right on the north shore ofSkaneateles Lake. The beautiful andcrystal-clear lake is one of the pretti-est and cleanest in the state, andcharming inns and restaurants backright up to it. In summer bands playon the lakefront at a postcard-perfectgazebo and winter brings costumedactors who create a Dickensian holi-day. See chapter 12.
• Saranac Lake: Less hectic than itsneighbor, Lake Placid, this town boastsa charm all its own. With tiny clap-board shops mixed in with cute brickstructures, there are a couple of gems ofrestaurants here, along with a prettyinn and clean streets. See chapter 13.
T H E B E S T O D D B A L L AT T R A C T I O N S 21
13 The Best Oddball Attractions• Big Duck, Long Island: You knew
Long Island was famous for its duck,but this statue on Route 24 at the Flanders/Hampton Bays borderwill likely surprise you—it’s 20 feettall. Even better, you can stop hereand pick up tourist information. Seep. 199.
• Reviving the Borscht Belt: TheCatskill Region has come a long waysince it was the so-called borscht beltvacation land where New York Cityfamilies retreated to day camps in themountains. But there are still some ofthose old-school, all-in-one resorts,many of them ethnic enclaves ofgroup entertainment and back-to-back activities like bowling, shuffleboard, and pale imitations of yester-year game shows. They’re nostalgicfor some, high camp or cheese forothers. Among the many resortshanging on to old ways of summerfun in the mountains, one stands out:the Scott family resort at OquagaLake, where generations of one fam-ily have been entertaining visitors,incredibly, since 1869. The resort isbest known for the singing Scott fam-
ily’s nightly cabaret revues in whicheveryone from the costumed grand-kids to the grandparents plays a rous-ing part. See p. 280 and chapter 9.
• 700 Mormons Interpreting theBible in Full Technicolor: The Mor-mon Church, also known as theChurch of Jesus Christ of Latter-DaySaints, got its miraculous start in theFinger Lakes Region before headingwest. Every year in July, hundreds ofthousands of the faithful and curiousmake pilgrimages to witness the HillCumorah Pageant, a giant spectaclethat constitutes the largest outdoortheatrical production in the U.S.:The show sports a costumed cast of700, a nine-level stage, and music bythe Mormon Tabernacle Choir. It hasto be seen to be believed, but evennonbelievers enjoy the over-the-topshow. See p. 371.
• The Winery Impersonating Hoot-ers: Wine tasting is all about protocoland pompous, highbrow terms likebouquet, nose, and body, right? Notat Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards, in the Fin-ger Lakes, where a visit to the vine-yard is occasionally more akin to
05_751731 ch01.qxp 11/17/05 10:59 PM Page 21
something you’d stumble upon at acollege frat house. To start, the win-ery’s bestseller is the mass-market“Red Cat,” a low-rent party wine thathas earned a reputation as an every-man’s aphrodisiac. The winery revelsin party atmosphere, rock-’n’-rollmusic, and irreverence toward tradi-tional wine-tasting etiquette. Some-times, wine tasting is accompanied bycheerful folks joining in chants lacedwith sexual innuendo; more than afew women have been known to dofftheir tops to demonstrate their pref-erence for Hazlitt wines. See p. 350.
• Kazoo Museum, Eden: Who wouldgo through the trouble of collectingwooden kazoos, gold kazoos, and
liquor-bottle-shaped kazoos (cele-brating the end of Prohibition)? Peo-ple driven indoors by the brutalwestern New York winters. Thismuseum has the oddest collection ofthis peculiar little instrument anduntil recently was even making more.See chapter 14.
• Town of Mediums, Lily Dale: Thishaven for those in touch with other-worldly spirits has been celebratingits odd collection of residents for 125years. You can stop by for a privatereading any time of year, or come inthe summer for daily events, alongwith meditation and healing services.See chapter 14.
C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F N E W Y O R K S TAT E22
05_751731 ch01.qxp 11/17/05 10:59 PM Page 22