The Best of Philadelphia

Cliché-sounding statement number one: Philadelphia is a lovely city. I live here, in atiny fifth-floor walk-up studio on 8th Street, between Pine and Lombard. When Ilook out my back window, I can see the steeple of the old Pine Street church GeorgeWashington attended. Beyond the steeple are shiny-windowed high-rise apartments.Beyond them are blipping lights of planes coasting over the Delaware River intoPhiladelphia International Airport. The view from the front of my apartment is of19th-century rooftops, rising skyscrapers—and a single roof deck with a pair of sun-bathing poodles.

The nation’s oldest hospital is a half a block from my home: I pass it every time Ihead out to shop in Old City, or to work in my office near Rittenhouse Square. Bothare about a 15-minute walk, provided I don’t stop in any of the dozen or so amazinglittle cafes along the way. About once a week, folks passing my apartment ask for direc-tions to Pat’s and Geno’s, South Philly’s famous cheesesteak stands.

These tiny details of my daily life make me hometown-proud (cliché number two).To me, a reformed suburbanite, Philadelphia is the perfect American city. I love thatit surrounds me with some of our country’s most important historic monuments. Ilove that its buildings are a blend of the extremely old and the super-new. I love themistakenly planted gingko trees, the Rocky footprints at the top of the Art Museumsteps (although I’m not sure about the statute), the fresh mozzarella cheese at Clau-dio’s in the Italian Market, New Year’s Day’s debauched Two Street party after theannual Mummer’s Parade (which I also love). And I love that in 20 minutes I can walkanywhere in Center City.

I haven’t always gone weak in the knees for Philly, though. My crush came aboutgradually. When I moved back 10 years ago, I thought I was stopping over on my wayto New York. But something strange happened: Philadelphia kept my attention. Everytime I turned around, there was another great place to eat dinner, another incredibleart opening, another amazing boutique, bar, band, exhibit, or event. As Philadelphiablossomed, so did my feelings for it.

And I’m not the only one who feels this way about Philadelphia. While other citieshave seen small hardware stores and haberdasheries and independent coffee shops giv-ing way to chains and big-box stores, here, people hung in, roasting their own coffeebeans and defiantly creating their own art. The result: In 2005, National GeographicTraveler lauded Philadelphia as the “Next Great City.” Just before that, the New YorkTimes called us the “sixth borough.”

Of course, my City of Brotherly Love still has a long way to go. Not all Philadel-phians live on a block as safe as mine. Beyond Center City, beyond University Cityand Chestnut Hill, are pockets—giant pockets—riddled with serious poverty andunspeakable violence. And, in the very near future, massive, 24-hour casinos will set

1

05_100486 ch01.qxp 4/20/07 11:54 PM Page 4

COPYRIG

HTED M

ATERIAL

F R O M M E R ’ S FAV O R I T E P H I L A D E L P H I A E X P E R I E N C E S 5

up their depressing, addictive trade around town. To my mind, this change can onlymake matters worse.

If I had to choose one inspiring must-do for visitors, I’d recommend a Mural ArtsTour (& 215/685-0754; www.muralarts.org). Mural Arts guides take you intoPhilly’s other neighborhoods, the ones that don’t appear in guidebooks. You’ll cruiseby smooth walls blanketed in brilliant colors. You’ll learn how beautifying communi-ties, working with one paintbrush, one child at a time, can bring about positive trans-formation. The experience is moving, restorative, and educational. It re-teaches youthe classic lesson of the city, and America itself: One small step, one giant leap. Righthere, on earth, in Philadelphia: a generally lovely place to be.

1 Frommer’s Favorite Philadelphia Experiences• Taking Afternoon Tea at Nineteen:

The 19th-floor cafe-in-the-round atthe grand Park Hyatt at the Bellevuerecently reinstituted tea service, andlittle girls and their mommies are get-ting out their white gloves in antici-pation. The bird’s-eye view from thecafe’s impossibly tall windows is spec-tacular—enhancing the jambon royalsandwiches and chocolate shortbread.See p. 101.

• Visiting the Barnes Foundation:The Barnes Foundation Gallery inMerion houses the most importantprivate collection of Impressionistand early French modern paintings inthe world, displaying more Cézannesthan all the museums of France puttogether. The building was designedby Paul Philippe Cret, and is amaz-ing, not only for its lovely design, butalso because Albert Barnes was metic-ulous about displaying the works,often juxtaposing them with objetssuch as antique iron locks or Africantribal masks. It appears the museumwill move to Center City Philadel-phia in the coming years, so scheduleyour visit to the current locationnow: You may not get anotherchance. See p. 130.

• Wandering Through FairmountPark: It would take dozens of outingsto fully explore the 100 miles of trailsin this 8,900-acre giant of an urban

park—some of them are virtuallyunchanged since Revolutionarytimes. We’ll settle for gazing at thehundreds of flame azaleas that bloombehind the Art Museum in spring,special visits to Shofuso Japanese tea-house, and winter strolls along theWissahickon Creek. See p. 151.

• Gallery Hopping on First Friday:On the first Friday of every month,the galleries, stores, and studios ofOld City—just north of Indepen-dence National Historical Park—remain open with refreshments andartists on hand until 9pm. Wanderalong the cobblestone streets, pop-ping in where you fancy, before anight out in this happening part oftown. See p. 177.

• Stepping Back in Time in HistoricPhiladelphia: The reclamation ofthis country’s Colonial capital hasbeen nearly miraculous, from theLiberty Bell’s gleaming new home tothe renovation of hundreds of rowhouses with their distinctive brick-work and 18th-century formal gar-dens (and welcoming benches). Butthe costumed town criers with freemaps and the Revolutionary War–erastreet theater really bring the experi-ence to life. Just wander; they’ll findyou. See “Independence NationalHistorical Park: America’s Most His-toric Square Mile,” in chapter 7.

05_100486 ch01.qxp 4/20/07 11:54 PM Page 5

• Eating the Sandwich: We all lovehistory, art, a great jazz solo, and aswanky night on the town. But thecraving for Philly’s number-one fastfood somehow surpasses all otherdesires. It’s primal, an urge thatcomes over you the moment youenter city limits. The inimitablecheesesteak, spelled in one word,available with sharp Provolone orgooey Cheez Whiz and “wid” or“widout” sautéed onions, is, to manya traveler, worth the trip alone. Findit, along with some of the city’s otherunsung culinary heroes (punintended), in chapter 6.

• Strolling Around RittenhouseSquare at Night: When the rest ofPhiladelphia’s city squares grow quietat night, this one twinkles with activ-ity. Patrons toast each other at bistrosidewalk tables. Couples cross thepark, hand-in-hand. On a summernight, you’re likely to come upon afree musical performance in thesquare’s center. In winter, you’ll bedazzled by the bright balls of lights inthe treetops. See p. 201.

• Enjoying the Lights at Night: TheWilliam Penn statue atop City Hall,the Ben Franklin Bridge, and sevenSchuylkill River bridges are perma-nently lighted, joining the beautifulwhite pin lights that outline the boat-houses along the Schuylkill River.

• Touring an Open House: If you’rein the city at the right time, don’tmiss the tours of restored mansions inSociety Hill, Rittenhouse Square, orFairmount Park for a delightful les-son in Colonial-era interior designand Americana. The open houses are

scattered throughout the year, butduring the pre-Christmas season,with their period decorations, theyare especially lovely. See the“Philadelphia Calendar of Events,” inchapter 2.

• Breathing Deeply at the Philadel-phia Flower Show: In early March,the Flower Show—the largest andmost prestigious indoor exhibition ofits kind in the world—descends onthe Pennsylvania Convention Center,with acres of orchids and traditionaland exotic displays. See p. 19.

• Exploring the Philadelphia Museumof Art: It has a stupendous collectionof masterpieces, period rooms, andcrafts, and is becoming one of thehottest museums in the country forspecial exhibitions. Look for moreblockbusters like the recent exhibitsof works by Eakins and Degas: “RenoirLandscapes” is scheduled for fall2007. Wednesday and Friday eveninghours have become convivial socialscenes, with cocktails and live music.See p. 130.

• Cheering the Regattas along theSchuylkill: On any spring weekend,stand along Boathouse Row justnorth of the Philadelphia Museum ofArt, and get ready to cheer. Crewsrace each other every 5 minutes or so,with friends lining the riverbanksrooting for them. See p. 163.

• Getting Lost in the Reading Termi-nal Market: You’ll never go com-pletely missing, but you willdefinitely get caught up in the mazeof stalls at this historic market. Andwhen you stumble upon an Amishfood counter, artisan baker, local

C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F P H I L A D E L P H I A6

A Central CityThirty-eight percent of the nation’s population lives within a 41⁄2-hour drive ofPhiladelphia.

Fun Fact

05_100486 ch01.qxp 4/20/07 11:54 PM Page 6

�

�

�

�

�

�

�

�

��

�

�

��

�

�

�

�

�

1

7

2

76

6

11

95

95

495

28

17

16

95

95

95

95

95

95

95

91

91

89

20

40

55

87

81

81

87

90

90

84

81

81

201

219

90

90

86

88

8080

78

76707670

77

77

80

70

68

79

77

64

64

85

85

40

40

64

20

20

26

16

250

460

158

96

11

15

13

13

50

5050

29

29

17

17

17

585858

52

52

52

6464

1

74

76

17

17

11

17

10

117

105

401

101

401

402

400

69

60

621

7

CANADA

ONTARIO

QUEBEC

MAINE

NEWHAMPSHIRE

VERMONT

NEWYORK

MASS.

RHODEISLANDCONN.

NEWJERSEY

PENNSYLVANIA

DELAWARE

MARYLAND

OHIO

WESTVIRGINIA

VIRGINIA

NORTHCAROLINA

SOUTHCAROLINA

GEORGIA

Québec

MontreálOttawa

Toronto

New York

Philadelphia

Augusta

Rochester

Baltimore

Portland

Montpelier

Concord

AlbanyBoston

Providence

Hartford

Syracuse

Buffalo

Annapolis

Pittsburgh

Richmond

Raleigh

Charleston

Harrisburg

Columbia

Savannah

Charlotte

Dover

Wilmington

Trenton

Washington, D.C.

Cleveland

PortsmouthManchester

Burlington

UticaNiagara

Falls

Binghamton

New Haven

Atlantic City

Altoona

Erie

Youngstown

Wheeling

Morgantown

Roanoke

Newport News

Norfolk

Greensboro

DurhamWinston-

Salem

Wilmington

Myrle Beach

Charleston

Scranton

Springfield

ATLANTICOCEAN

ChesapeakeB

ay

LakeChamplain

FingerLakes

Hu

dso

n

Del

awar

e

Alle

gh

eny

Ohi

o

Savannah

CapeCod

Long Island

CapeHatteras

CapeMay

AP

PA

LA

CH

I AN

MO

UN

TA

I NS

ALLEG

HENY

MOUNTAINS

KATSKILLMOUNTAINS

ADIRONDACKMOUNTAINS

PI E

DM

ON

T

C O A S T A LP L A

I N

CANADA

ONTARIO

QUEBEC

MAINE

NEWHAMPSHIRE

VERMONT

NEWYORK

MASS.

RHODEISLANDCONN.

NEWJERSEY

PENNSYLVANIA

DELAWARE

MARYLAND

OHIO

WESTVIRGINIA

VIRGINIA

NORTHCAROLINA

SOUTHCAROLINA

GEORGIA

Québec

MontreálOttawa

Toronto

New York

Philadelphia

Augusta

Rochester

Baltimore

Portland

Montpelier

Concord

AlbanyBoston

Providence

Hartford

Syracuse

Buffalo

Annapolis

Pittsburgh

Richmond

Raleigh

Charleston

Harrisburg

Columbia

Savannah

Charlotte

Dover

Wilmington

Trenton

Washington, D.C.

Cleveland

PortsmouthManchester

Burlington

UticaNiagara

Falls

Binghamton

New Haven

Atlantic City

Altoona

Erie

Youngstown

Wheeling

Morgantown

Roanoke

Newport News

Norfolk

Greensboro

DurhamWinston-

Salem

Wilmington

Myrle Beach

Charleston

Scranton

Springfield

GeorgianBay

LakeHuron

Lake Erie

Lake O n tario

ATLANTICOCEAN

ChesapeakeB

ay

LakeChamplain

FingerLakes

Hu

dso

n

Del

awar

e

Alle

gh

eny

Ohi

o

Savannah

CapeCod

Long Island

CapeHatteras

CapeMay

AP

PA

LA

CH

I AN

MO

UN

TA

I NS

ALLEG

HENY

MOUNTAINS

KATSKILLMOUNTAINS

ADIRONDACKMOUNTAINS

PI E

DM

ON

T

C O A S T A LP L A

I N

50 mi

80 km

0

0N

F R O M M E R ’ S FAV O R I T E P H I L A D E L P H I A E X P E R I E N C E S 7

The Eastern Seaboard

05_100486 ch01.qxp 4/20/07 11:54 PM Page 7

farmer, or elegant cake display, sud-denly finding your way out doesn’tseem so essential. See p. 102.

• Exploring South Philly: Exuberantattitude punctuates every interchangeyou’ll have, whether strolling (withample tastings) through the ItalianMarket or seeking out the area’s greatpizzas, cannoli, or famed cheesesteaksfarther south. See p. 54 for a descrip-tion of the neighborhood and p. 106for info on where to eat.

• Drinking Local Beer: One hundredyears ago, Philadelphia was known asthe greatest brewing city in the West-ern Hemisphere. It’s not quite thatanymore, but it’s regaining ground.Bars like Standard Tap (p. 211),McGillin’s (p. 211), Good Dog Barand Restaurant (p. 210), Royal Tav-ern (p. 211), and, especially, Monk’s(p. 211) feature delicious craft brews,many of them by Yards, Flying Fish,

Dogfishhead, Victory, Stout’s, andother area brewers.

• Catching a Phillies Game at theBallpark: A summer night at the newCitizens Bank Park means great viewsfrom every seat in this old-fashioned-style stadium, with its amazing localfoods such as Tony Luke’s cheeses-teaks. If you sit on the third level,you’ll also see a perfectly framed viewof the Center City skyline. WhenRyan Howard homers, watch thegiant Liberty Bell light up and ring.See p. 163.

• Taking in the Mummer’s Parade:Grown men dancing in feathers,sequins, and spandex mark theannual New Year’s Day Mummer’sParade (www.mummers.com), inwhich thousands strut their way upBroad Street. The music is loud andantiquated, but the experience is fes-tive and fun. Bundle up. See p. 145.

C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F P H I L A D E L P H I A8

2 The Best Hotel Bets• Best Historic Hotel: Well, it’s only

the “lite” version of what it used tobe, when Thomas Edison designedthe fixtures and the ballroom definedswank. But the top floor of the ParkHyatt Philadelphia at the Bellevue,Broad and Walnut streets, or 1415Chancellor Ct., between Walnut andLocust streets (& 800/223-1234),with its Library Lounge bar and pas-tel-painted, domed Barrymore tea-room, retains traces of a century’sworth of history. See p. 78.

• Best for Business Travelers: HotelSofitel, 120 S. 17th St. (& 800/SOFITEL), has a convenient loca-tion and rooms that are large and ele-gant, with easy access to plugs andmodem jacks at a handsome desk.The delicious French coffee doesn’thurt either. The service staff is effi-cient and courteous. See p. 77.

• Best for a Romantic Getaway: ThePenn’s View Hotel, Front and Mar-ket streets (& 800/331-7634), feelslike an exquisite club, with views overthe Delaware River. And how couldyou not like what the New York Timeshails as “the mother of all wine bars”downstairs? See p. 74.

• Best Hotel Lobby for PretendingYou’re Rich: There’s no place like thecool, plush Four Seasons Hotel, 1Logan Sq. (& 800/332-3442), forrubbing elbows with the moneyedelite (it’s also a great place to stay ifyou are the moneyed elite). TheSwann Lounge overlooking LoganCircle is a constant stream of chicoutfits, custom suits, and the fre-quent black tie. See p. 76.

• Best for Families: The Hilton Inn atPenn, in West Philadelphia at 3600Sansom St. (& 800/445-8667), is a

05_100486 ch01.qxp 4/20/07 11:54 PM Page 8

cross-town ride from the historicalsights, but offers the whole familyspace to roam among spacious corri-dors, ever-present fruit to munch onand tea to sip in a comfortable librarylounge, plus TV for children to watchwhile parents exercise. The campus ofU. Penn across the street is perfect forthrowing a Frisbee or playing tag. Seep. 82. In Center City, LoewsPhiladelphia Hotel, 1200 Market St.(& 215/627-1200), doesn’t have thebiggest rooms in town, but it’s got agreat game closet. See p. 72.

• Best Moderately Priced Hotel: TheHotel Windsor, 1700 BenjaminFranklin Pkwy. near RittenhouseSquare and City Hall (& 877/784-8379), is the best choice in its pricerange. A one-room suite with twodouble beds and full kitchen goes for$150. A generous continental break-fast is included in the rate. See p. 80.

• Best B&B: Shippen Way Inn, 418Bainbridge St. (& 800/245-4873 or215/627-7266), has nine rooms intwo Queen Village row houses builtaround 1750 and lovingly main-tained. You might also try TenEleven Clinton, 1011 Clinton St.(& 215/923-8144), an elegant 1836Federal town house on a quiet tree-lined street. See “A Historic Bed &Breakfast” on p. 78.

• Best Service: The staff at the FourSeasons Hotel, 1 Logan Sq. (& 215/963-1500), knows the number-onesecret of flawless service: Be nice.(They know the second secret, too:Always keep your cool.) No matterhow many NBA players are in theirexquisite Fountain Restaurant, nomatter which rock-’n’-roll giants aretaking tea in the Swann Lounge, orwho turned up in the whirlpool at4am, these employees take it in stride,getting their jobs done efficiently and

courteously—and appearing to havefun all the while. See p. 76.

• Best Hotel for Historic DistrictHopping: If you’re here to see Inde-pendence Park, why not wake uplooking at it through the floral chintzcurtains at the Omni Hotel at Inde-pendence Park, 4th and Chestnutstreets (& 800/843-6664)? All 150guest rooms have views of the GreekRevival Second Bank of the U.S. anda half-dozen of America’s Georgianjewels. And the clip-clopping ofhorses and carriages below maintainsthe historical feel. See p. 69.

• Best Hotel Health Club: The Sport-ing Club at the Bellevue, on BroadStreet between Walnut and Locuststreets (& 215/985-9867), countsGovernor Rendell, Dr. J., and mostof the city’s movers and shakersamong its members. Honorary mem-bership is given to guests of the ParkHyatt Philadelphia at the Bellevue.The gym facilities are the best intown, and classes are top-notch. Seep. 78.

• Best Hotel Pool: Splashing aroundthe glassed-in pool of the HyattRegency Philadelphia at Penn’sLanding, 201 S. Columbus Blvd. (& 215/928-1234), is doubly fun,because just beyond the pool is theDelaware River. See p. 69. For exer-cise and a skyscraper city view, how-ever, the skinny lap pool at the LoewsPhiladelphia Hotel, 1200 MarketSt. (& 215/627-1200) is well worththe $10 per-visit charge. See p. 72.

• Best Views: In Center City, all therooms at the Rittenhouse Hotel,210 W. Rittenhouse Sq. (& 800/635-1042), have wonderful views ofthe Philly landscape, from the leafypark below on the east to the westernview of the Schuylkill and the Park-way. See p. 78.

T H E B E S T H OT E L B E T S 9

05_100486 ch01.qxp 4/20/07 11:54 PM Page 9

• Best Hotel Restaurants: The Zagatguide to restaurants has listed theFountain Restaurant in the FourSeasons, 1 Logan Sq. (& 215/963-1500), as one of the country’s top 10dining spots. A meal here is virtuallyperfect, with high prices to match thehigh quality. See p. 98. A worthy rivalis Lacroix at the Rittenhouse Hotel,210 W. Rittenhouse Sq. (& 215/546-9000). This haute-meets-mod-ern French restaurant is soothing andsleek, with park views, limestoneaccents, and elegant green-velvet seat-ing; it has received great acclaim fromEsquire’s John Mariani, among oth-ers. See p. 98.

• Best Splurge Hotel: The Ritz-Carl-ton Philadelphia, 10 Avenue of theArts (& 215/523-8000), delivers anoverwhelming dose of luxury, with itsmassive domed lobby, lavish furnish-ings, and clubby bars. Upgrade to theClub Level for less than $50 andexperience a lounge spread of cham-pagne and endless hors d’oeuvres. Seep. 79.

• Best Trendy Hotel: Philly’s luxuri-ously hip Hotel Sofitel, 120 S. 17th

St. (& 800/SOFITEL), has moderndecor, a groovy long bar, and lots ofFrench people swanning around, plusDeco-contemporary furniture and agreat location for shopping near Wal-nut Street. (We’re expecting sometough competition in this categorywhen the W Hotel opens in 2009.)See p. 77.

• Best Hostel: Centrally located nearall the historical and nightlife attrac-tions, the Bank Street Hostel, 32 S.Bank St. (& 800/392-4678 or215/922-0222), is smack in the OldCity/Society Hill nexus; it’s perfectfor budget or adventurous travelers.See p. 86.

• Best Country Getaway: Plush lodg-ings scattered throughout a pictur-esque hamlet, proximity to thegorgeous Brandywine Valley’s fineattractions, plus an on-site spa anddeliciously eclectic restaurant makethe Inn at Montchanin Village,Route 100 and Kirk Road, Mont-chanin, DE (& 800/269-2473 or302/888-2133; www.montchanin.com) an incomparable weekendretreat. See p. 233.

C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F P H I L A D E L P H I A10

3 The Best Restaurant Bets• Best Spot for a Romantic Dinner:

Friday Saturday Sunday, 261 S. 21stSt. (& 215/546-4232), has longbeen a top spot for couples. Thebistro’s modest decor, menu, andprices (especially for wine) keep dis-tractions to a minimum. See p. 100.

• Best Spot for a Business Lunch:Lacroix at the Rittenhouse Hotel,210 W. Rittenhouse Sq. (& 215/546-9000), offers a stunningly goodthree-course, $26 prix-fixe lunch inits ethereal yet unstuffy dining room.Your dining partners will be the city’spower brokers, and the menu of theday might include ragout of lobsterand white asparagus. See p. 98.

• Best Spot for a Celebration: If youwant to celebrate a special occasion ina lavish setting, opulent Le Bec-Fin,1523 Walnut St. (& 215/567-1000),is the way to go. Georges Perrier’sprix-fixe menu has an internationalreputation, and the dessert cart isunforgettable. See p. 98.

• Best Decor: The spaceship-like decorat Morimoto at 723 Chestnut St. (& 215/413-9070) will take yourbreath away, but order a meal hereand you’ll see that interior design isjust the beginning: Masahuru Mori-moto’s delicious fare is downrightsculptural. See p. 88.

05_100486 ch01.qxp 4/20/07 11:54 PM Page 10

• Best View: Sitting on the deck of theMoshulu, 411 S. Columbus Blvd.(& 215/923-2500), a 1904 “tallship” that’s been converted into aroomy, luxe French-Asian restaurant,might sound touristy, but in reality,it’s delightful. Even in the winter, theship’s indoor dining rooms offerlovely Delaware River and SocietyHill views. And in summer, thebreeze is as cooling as one of its 20wines by the glass. See p. 94.

• Best Wine List: Two restaurantsowned by the Sena family offerimpressive wine selections: LaFamiglia, 8 S. Front St. (& 215/922-2803; p. 92), has one of thefinest cellars in the world accordingto Wine Spectator magazine. Oneblock north, the Ristorante Panor-ama, in the Penn’s View Hotel atFront and Market streets (& 215/922-7800; p. 95), is a charming Ital-ian trattoria that has 120 differentbottles available by the glass, or as a3-ounce “taste.” Order a “flight”—five glasses grouped around a theme.Flights fall in the $14-to-$50 range.

• Best Value: Dining at the mod-Decobar at Brasserie Perrier, 1619 Wal-nut St. (& 215/568-3000), with its$16 steak frites or incomparableroasted chicken (also $16), meanssavoring cuisine overseen by the city’smost famous chef, Georges Perrier ofLe Bec-Fin. The restaurant behindthis colorful lounge offers haute-bistro food at higher prices, withentrees in the $35 range. See p. 99.

• Best Value on a Fixed-Price Meal:There’s nothing like Le Bec-Fin’s $45lunch, at 1523 Walnut St. (& 215/567-1000), for classic French. See p. 98.

• Best for Kids: Kids love the burgers,grilled cheeses, soups, and other clas-sic American fare at the upscaleMarathon Grill, 1839 Spruce St.

(& 215/731-0800), a former dinerturned into a stylish modern spacethat serves breakfast, lunch, and din-ner (plus snacks all afternoon). Parentsalso love the casual, romping-permit-ted vibe, plus the full bar and upscaleside of the menu, with its grilled fishand savory pastas. See p. 105.

• Best Date Restaurant: For a classybistro with contemporary fare in OldCity, reserve a deuce at Fork, 306Market St. (& 215/625-9425). Seep. 89. Friday Saturday Sunday, 261S. 21st St. (& 215/546-4232), hasbeen a classic, intimate date spotsince the 1970s, and boasts consistentfare, glowing lighting, and greatvalue. See p. 100.

• Best American Cuisine: Using localingredients from Amish and BucksCounty boutique farmers, and incor-porating the worthier elements ofnew American cuisine without theannoying flourishes, Fork, at 306Market St. (& 215/625-9425), is aspopular for brunch as it is for a late-night snack. In this warm, sophisti-cated dining room, you can dine onpan-seared salmon or spicy hangersteak. See p. 89.

• Best Chinese Cuisine: Sure, thereare fancier places in town, but noneare as straightforward and note-per-fect as Chinatown’s Lee How Fook,219 N. 11th St. (& 215/925-7266).The simple, handsome space—one ofthe city’s hundreds of BYOBs—doesa beautiful job with everything theytouch: hot pots, noodle soups, salt-baked seafood, and more. See p. 112.

• Best Continental Cuisine: TheFountain Restaurant at the FourSeasons Hotel, 1 Logan Sq., between18th Street and Franklin Parkway (& 215/963-1500), is consistentlyrated best in town for understated,complex versions of classic Continen-tal dishes. Because the food is so

T H E B E S T R E S TA U R A N T B E T S 11

05_100486 ch01.qxp 4/20/07 11:54 PM Page 11

uniformly excellent, my advice is togo with the chef ’s choices on thefixed-price menu. See p. 98.

• Best French Cuisine: Right now, it’sthe serene Lacroix in the RittenhouseHotel, 210 W. Rittenhouse Sq. (& 215/546-9000), where theexquisite menu is rooted in classicalFrench cooking, but benefits fromChef Jean-Marie Lacroix’s moderntechnique. See p. 98.

• Best Steakhouse: With a half-dozengreat choices, including the CapitalGrille and the Palm, the top choice is The Prime Rib, 1701 Locust St.(& 215/772-1701), offering tenderporterhouse served with fresh shred-ded horseradish. The ambience is atimeless 1940s-style place—jazz com-bos and formally clad waitersincluded. See p. 101.

• Best Burgers and Beer: DiscerningPhiladelphia Inquirer restaurant criticCraig La Ban recently wrote a lauda-tory haiku about the blue cheese–stuffed burger at Good Dog Bar andRestaurant, 224 S. 15th St. (& 215/985-9600), a youthful Center Citygastro-pub. There’s a trick to it,though: You have to order it mediumor rarer; otherwise, the cheese bakesout. See p. 210.

• Best Pizza: Marra’s, 1734 E.Passyunk Ave., between Morris andMoore streets (& 215/463-9249), inSouth Philadelphia, has pies with thincrusts and delicious, spicy toppings,baked in brick ovens; enjoy them inold wooden booths. See p. 107.

• Best Cheesesteak: There’s no goingwrong at the big guys (Pat’s, Geno’s,and Jim’s), but there’s something justa bit better about the composition ofthe steak at South Philly’s tiny John’s

Roast Pork (p. 118). Learn aboutthis spot, and all the rest of ’em in“The Ultimate Cheesesteak TasteTest” on p. 116.

• Best Hoagies: Using seeded Italianbread made a couple doors down,Sarcone’s Deli, 9th and Fitzwaterstreets (& 215/922-1717), comes upwith the best Italian sandwiches inthe city. (A bold statement, I know.)Choose from classic cold cuts, or spe-cialty sandwiches that combineroasted red peppers, sharp Provolone,long hots, and whole cloves of garlic.

• Best Desserts: Weekends, The Ritz-Carlton Hotel, 10 Avenue of theArts (& 215/523-8000), offers adessert buffet in its grand lobby, andthis wonderfully excessive spread of40 desserts, priced at $19 per person,has become a popular way to end aFriday or Saturday evening down-town. You may even want to skipdinner altogether and save room fortarte Tatin and chocolate gâteau. Seep. 79.

• Best Breakfast: At Sam’s MorningGlory, 10th and Fitzwater streets (& 215/413-3999), the coffee comesin big, steely mugs; doughy biscuitsare cut square; and the pancakes arethe best you’ll eat, anywhere, ever. Seep. 108.

• Best Brunch: Nearly every restaurantoffers Sunday brunch, ranging fromstandard bagels with spreads to a fullbreakfast menu. The White DogCafé, 3420 Sansom St. (& 215/386-9224), in West Philadelphia, swingsboth ways, serving everything fromsimple breakfast dishes to elaboratelate-morning feasts in a completelycomfortable, unpretentious setting.See p. 109.

C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F P H I L A D E L P H I A12

05_100486 ch01.qxp 4/20/07 11:54 PM Page 12

• Best People-Watching: Rouge, 205S. 18th St. (& 215/732-6622), abistro with alfresco cafe tables, hasbecome the city’s most sought-afterreal estate from May through Sep-tember. See p. 101. If you want tospot a celebrity (J. Lo, CameronDiaz, and Justin Timberlake have alldined here), your favorite NBAplayer, or an aging rocker, head to theSwann Lounge at the Four Seasons,1 Logan Square (on 18th St.; & 215/963-1500) where you can pretendnot to stare while perching on a plushcouch. See p. 212.

• Best Afternoon Tea: The advent oftrue luxury hotels in Philadelphia hasalso brought exquisite afternoon teasserved all over town. The CassattLounge at the Rittenhouse Hotel,210 W. Rittenhouse Sq. (& 215/546-9000), has muted, lovely decor,a garden, and Mary Cassatt’s draw-ings commemorating her brother’shouse, which once stood on the site.See p. 78.

• Best for Pre-Theater Dinner: Atsleek Bliss, 220 S. Broad St. (& 215/731-1100), the eclectic menu fea-tures pastas, Asian-inspired dishes,and grilled fare. Ernesto’s 1521 Café,1521 Spruce St. (& 215/546-1521),is an affordable, modern Italian trattoria with handmade pasta. See p. 104.

• Best Outdoor Dining: Just off thepark that bears its name, stylishWashington Square, 210 S. Wash-ington Sq. (& 215/592-7787),offers a prime, Palm Beach-y settingfor noshing interesting internationalfare while sipping cocktails. For thebest outdoor dining with a view,however, head over to the WaterWorks Restaurant and Lounge,located behind the PhiladelphiaMuseum of Art, off Kelly Drive (& 215/236-9000). Ask for a tableby the river, and watch the sun setover the Schuylkill River as the lightson Boathouse Row come up. See p. 101.

• Best Late-Night Dining: Follow thepost-bar crowd to Pat’s and Geno’s,the dueling cheesesteak vendors ofSouth Philly, and you’ll experience aculinary phenomenon: A greasy steaksandwich tastes much, much better at3am. See p. 115.

• Best Ice Cream: For the old-fash-ioned: Although Franklin Fountain,116 Market St. (& 215/627-1899),is a relatively new addition to OldCity, it feels as though it’s been herefor about 50 years. Come here forsloppy sundaes, egg creams, ice-cream sodas, and other back-in-the-day treats. See p. 105.

T H E B E S T R E S TA U R A N T B E T S 13

05_100486 ch01.qxp 4/20/07 11:54 PM Page 13