The Best of Portugal

Centuries ago, Portugal was a pioneer of worldwide exploration. Until recently,however, it was never as successful in attracting visitors to its own shores. Out-side of greater Lisbon, the Algarve, and the island of Madeira, Portugal remainedunknown and undiscovered by the mainstream visitor for many decades.

Today’s travelers are beginning to realize that Portugal was unjustly over-looked. It offers sandy beaches, art treasures, flavorful cuisine, a unique form ofarchitecture (Manueline), charming handcrafts, a mild climate, relatively mod-erate hotel rates, and polite and friendly people. Only 2 million annual visitorscame to Portugal in the late 1970s. The number swelled to 20 million in themid-1990s, and an explosion of hotel and resort building has kept pace.

Despite its small size—225km (140 miles) wide and 612km (380 miles)long—Portugal is one of the most rewarding travel destinations in Europe.Exploring its towns, cities, villages, and countryside will likely take longer thanexpected because there is so much richness and variety along the way.

The people, whose warmth is legendary, inhabit a majestic land of extraordi-nary variety. You’ll see almond trees in the African-looking Algarve; cork forestsand fields of golden wheat in Alentejo; ranches in Ribatejo; narrow, windingstreets in the Alfama in Lisbon; ox-drawn carts crossing the plains of Minho;and vineyards in the Douro. Azaleas, rhododendrons, and canna grow for mileson end; the sound of fado music drifts out of small cafes; windmills clack in theAtlantic breezes; sardine boats bob in the bays; and gleaming whitewashedhouses glisten in the sun. The sea is never far away.

This list is an embarkation point for the discoveries, like those by the marinersof old, that you’ll eventually make on your own.

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1 The Best Travel Experiences• Hiking in the Algarve: Portugal’s

incredible physical beauty makesit a spectacular place for outdooractivities. In the southern Algarveregion’s low-lying lagoons androcky highlands, the panoramasextend for miles over the nearbyocean. Especially rewarding istrekking through the territory nearSagres, which has retained its mys-tical hold on journeyers since it wasknown as the end of the world.Other worthwhile hikes includethe footpaths around the villagesof Silves and Monchique, where

eroded river valleys have changedlittle since the Moorish occupa-tion. See chapter 8.

• Pousada-Hopping: After WorldWar II, the Portuguese governmentrecognized that the patrimony ofits great past was desperately inneed of renovation. It transformeddozens of monasteries, palaces, andconvents into hotels, honoring thehistorical authenticity of theirarchitectural cores. Today’s travel-ers can intimately experience someof Portugal’s greatest architectureby staying in a pousada, part of a

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chain of state-owned and operatedhotels. The rooms might not be asopulent as you’d hoped, and thegovernment-appointed staffs willprobably be more bureaucratic thanyou’d care to encounter. Nonethe-less, pousada-hopping rewards thevisitor with insights into the Portu-gal of long ago.

• Playing Golf by the Sea: Britishmerchants trading in Portugal’sexcellent wines imported the sportof golf around 1890. Until the1960s, it remained a diversion onlyfor the very wealthy. Then an explo-sion of interest from abroad led tothe creation of at least 30 majorcourses. Many courses lie nearEstoril and in the southernAlgarve. The combination of greatweather, verdant fairways, andazure seas and skies is almost addic-tive (as if golf fanatics needed addi-tional motivation).

• Swooning to Fado: After soccer,fado (which translates as “fate”)music is the national obsession. Alyrical homage to the bruised orbroken heart, fado assumes formsthat are as old as the troubadours.Its four-line stanzas of unrhymedverse, performed by such legendarystars as Amália Rodrigues, capturethe nation’s collective unconscious.Hearing the lament of the fadistas(fado singers) in clubs is the bestway to appreciate the melancholydignity of Iberia’s western edge.

• Finding a Solitary Beach: Portugalhas long been famous for the glam-our and style of the beaches nearEstoril, Cascais, Setúbal, and Ses-imbra. More recently, the Algarve,with its 200km (124 miles) oftawny sands, gorgeous blue-greenwaters, and rocky coves, has capti-vated the imagination of northernEuropeans. While the most famousbeaches are likely to be verycrowded, you can find solitude onthe sands if you stop beside lonely

expanses of any coastal road innorthern Portugal.

• Fishing in Rich Coastal Waters:Portugal’s position on the Atlantic,its (largely) unpolluted waters, andits flowing rivers encourage con-centrations of fish. You won’t bethe first to plumb these waters—Portugal fed itself for hundreds ofgenerations using nets and lines,and its maritime and fishing tradi-tions are among the mostentrenched in Europe. The mildweather allows fishing year-roundfor more than 200 species, includ-ing varieties not seen anywhere else(such as the 2m/6-ft.-long). Thecountry’s rivers and lakes producethree species of trout, black bass,and salmon; the cold Atlanticabounds in sea bass, shark, tope,grouper, skate, and swordfish.

• Trekking to the End of theWorld: For medieval Europeans,the southwestern tip of Portugalrepresented the final frontier ofhuman security and power. Beyondthat point, the oceans were darkand fearful, filled with demonswaiting to devour the bodies andsouls of mariners foolhardy enoughto sail upon them. Adding Sagresand its peninsula to the Portuguesenation cost thousands of lives inbattle against the Moors, and get-ting there required weeks of travelover rocky deserts. Making a pil-grimage to this outpost is one ofthe loneliest and most majesticexperiences in Portugal. Comehere to pay your respects to thenavigators who embarked fromSagres on journeys to death orglory. Half a millennium later, theexcitement of those long-ago voy-ages still permeates this lonelycorner. See chapter 8.

• Losing It at a Spa: Compared tothe sybaritic luxury of spas inGermany and France, Portuguesespas are underaccessorized, and by

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California’s frenetic standards,they’re positively sleepy. Still,central and northern Portugalshare about half a dozen spas whosesulfur-rich waters have been consid-ered therapeutic since the days ofthe ancient Romans. Luso, MonteReal, and Curia are the country’smost famous spas, followed closelyby Caldas do Gerês, Vimeiro, andSão Pedro do Sul. Don’t expect thelatest in choreographed aerobicsand spinning classes; instead, sinkinto communion with nature, ridyour body of the toxins of urbanlife, and retire early every night forrecuperative sleep.

• Tasting & Touring in Port WineCountry: Across the Rio Douro

from the heart of the northerncity of Porto lies Vila Nova deGaia, the headquarters of theport-wine trade since the 1600s.From vineyards along the Douro,wine is transported to “lodges”(warehouses), where it is matured,bottled, and eventually shippedaround the world. More than 25companies, including such well-known names as Sandeman,maintain port-wine lodges here.Each offers free guided tours,always ending with a tasting ofone or two of the house wines.The tourist office in Porto willprovide you with a map if you’dlike to drive along the Douro tosee the vineyards. See chapter 11.

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2 The Best Towns to Visit• Sintra: Since the Moorish occupa-

tion, Portuguese kings and nobleshave recognized this town’s irre-sistible charm. You’ll find a denserconcentration of beautiful villasand gardens here than you’ll findanywhere else in Portugal. At leastfive major palaces and conventsare tucked amid the lush vegeta-tion. See section 5 in chapter 5.

• Óbidos: This town is the mostperfectly preserved 13th-centuryvillage in central Portugal. Itshistoric authenticity is the pri-mary concern of the populationof less than 5,000. For 600 years,Óbidos was the personal propertyof Portuguese queens, a symboliclove offering from their adoringhusbands. Óbidos has alwaysbreathed romance. See section 1 inchapter 7.

• Nazaré: This folkloric fishing vil-lage in central Portugal produceswonderful handcrafts. The townhas a strong sense of traditionalculture that’s distinctly differentfrom that of nearby communities.See section 3 in chapter 7.

• Fátima: In 1913, an apparition ofthe Virgin Mary appeared to threeshepherd children from Fátima,who were called upon to spread amessage of peace. Their story wasat first discounted and thenembraced by a church hierarchyunder assault by the ravages ofWorld War I. Later, 70,000 peoplewho were assembled on the siteclaimed to witness miracles. TodayFátima is the most-visited pilgrim-age site in Iberia, home to dozensof imposing churches and monu-ments. See section 5 in chapter 7.

• Évora: A well-preserved ancientRoman temple rises across thestreet from convents and monaster-ies that flourished when the kingsof Portugal used this town as theircapital in the 12th century. Thesebuildings combine with remnantsof the Moorish occupation to formone of the most alluring architec-tural medleys in Europe. Althoughnot large, Évora is one of the coun-try’s most perfectly preserved archi-tectural gems. See section 4 inchapter 9.

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• Tomar: Beginning in the 12th cen-tury, the Knights Templar and laterthe Knights of Christ (two warlikeand semimonastic sects) designatedTomar as their Portuguese head-quarters. They lavished the townwith adornments over the centuriesuntil it looked, as it does today, likea living monument to the architec-ture of medieval Portugal. See sec-tion 1 in chapter 9.

• Coimbra: The country’s academiccenter, this town boasts a univer-sity with roots in the Middle Ages,a rich historic core, and a traditionof troubadour-style singing that’sone of the most vital in Iberia. Seesection 3 in chapter 10.

• Porto: The second city of Portugal,Porto has rich associations with theport-wine trade. Entrepreneurswho returned home after makingtheir fortunes in Brazil built someof the town’s most imposing villasin the late 19th century. See section1 in chapter 11.

• Guimarães: The birthplace of thecountry’s first king, Afonso Hen-ríques, and the core from whichthe country expanded, Guimarãesis the cradle of Portugal. Itsmedieval core is one of the mostauthentic anywhere. The townwas also the birthplace of GilVicente (1470?–1536?), a play-wright referred to as the Shake-speare of Portugal. See section 1 inchapter 12.

• Viana do Castelo: This northerntown with strong folkloric tradi-tions is noted for pottery, women’sregional dresses, abundant rainfall,and a collection of distinctive anddignified public buildings. Its hey-day was in the 1500s, when fleetsdeparted from here to fish for codas far away as Newfoundland. Prof-its from their activities helped payfor the town’s handsome collectionof Manueline buildings. See sec-tion 5 in chapter 12.

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3 The Best Beaches• Costa do Sol: Sometimes called

the Estoril Coast, this stretch ofseafront extends 32km (20 miles)west of Lisbon. Its two majorresorts are Estoril and Cascais.Once the playground of the win-tering wealthy, the area nowattracts throngs of tourists, mainlyfrom northern Europe. See sec-tions 1 and 2 in chapter 5.

• The Algarve: This region at thesouthern tip of Portugal gained itsplace on world tourist mapsbecause of its string of beautiful,clean, sandy beaches. Lovelycoves, caves, and grottos—someaccessible only by boat—add tothe region’s allure. There are hun-dreds of beaches to choose from.Albufeira and Praia da Rocha areset against a backdrop of toweringrock formations; the best cove

beach is at Lagos, a former Moor-ish town with a deep-water harborand wide bay. See chapter 8.

• The Beiras: In central Portugal,north of Lisbon, some of the finestbeaches in Europe open onto theAtlantic. Like gems in a necklace,good, sandy beaches stretch fromPraia de Leirosa north to Praia deEspinho. The surf can be heavyand the undertow strong. Majorresorts include Figueira da Foz andnearby Buarcos. The beachesbetween Praia de Mira and CostaNova are more secluded. See sec-tion 2 in chapter 10.

• Costa Verde: As the northerncoastline approaches Galicia inSpain, the Atlantic waters growcolder, and even in summer, they’relikely to be windswept. But on cer-tain days they’re among the most

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dramatic in Europe. We like thewide, sandy beach at Ponte deLima, but there are many others.Notable destinations are the resortof Espinho, south of Porto, andother beach meccas, including

Póvoa do Varzim and Ofir, whichhave some of the best hotels,restaurants, and watersports equip-ment in the country. See sections 2and 4 in chapter 11.

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4 The Best Hotels• Pestana Carlton Palace (Lisbon;

& 21/361-56-00): One of thegrandest hotels to open in Portugalin years, this hotel lies in an upscaleresidential section 5km (3 miles)from the historic center. It wascarved out of a former villa built in1907. It’s a stunning example ofthe romantic revival architecturalstyle. See p. 88.

• Four Seasons Hotel The Ritz Lis-bon (Lisbon; & 800/332-3442in the U.S., or 21/383-20-20):Built in the 1950s and host to aroster that reads like a who’s whoof international glamour, the Ritzis one of Portugal’s legendaryhotels. Everywhere in the hotel,you’ll get the impression that aswanky reception is about tobegin. See p. 78.

• York House (Lisbon; & 21/396-24-35): A former 17th-centuryconvent and private home, YorkHouse is the place to stay in Lis-bon. It abounds with climbingvines, antiques, four-poster beds,and oriental carpeting—fittingsand furnishings that maintainthe building’s historic characterwithout flattening your wallet.See p. 84.

• Albatroz (Cascais; & 21/484-73-80): In a garden overlookingthe Atlantic, this inn was origi-nally built as the summer resi-dence of the dukes of Loulé. Sinceits transformation into a stylishhotel, its aristocratic elegance hasdrawn guests from throughoutEurope. Service is impeccable.See p. 154.

• Palácio Hotel (Estoril; & 21/464-80-00): The Palácio enjoyedits heyday during the 1950s and1960s, when every deposedmonarch of Europe seemed to dis-appear into the Art Deco hotel’ssumptuous suites. The result: thecurious survival in Estoril of theroyal ambience of a Europe goneby. Today “the Palace” maintains astaff whose old-timers are amongthe best in Europe at offering royaltreatment to guests. See p. 147.

• Tivoli Palácio de Seteais (Sintra;& 21/923-32-00): One of themost elegant hotels in Portugalbears one of the country’s mostironic names. In 1807, a treatyending the Napoleonic campaignin Portugal was signed here, withterms so humiliating to the Por-tuguese that they labeled the build-ing the Palace of the Seven Sighs.Any sighing you’re likely to dotoday will be from pleasure—at thesetting, the lavish gardens, and thereminders of an old-world way oflife. See p. 169.

• Le Méridien Dona Filipa(Almancil; & 28/935-72-00):Rising above the sea, this hotel is comfortable, modern, welldesigned, and sophisticated, butthe most stunning feature is the180 hectares (445 acres) sur-rounding it. Part of the land isdevoted to a superb golf course.Don’t let the severe exterior foolyou—the inside is richly appointedwith Chinese and Portugueseaccessories, many of them antique.See p. 242.

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• Monte do Casal (Estói; & 28/999-15-03): An 18th-centurycountry house on the Algarve hasbeen converted into one of themost charming and tranquil placesalong the coast. Set on 3 hectares(7.4 acres) of flowering trees, itoffers a chance to escape from thecurse of the high-rise sea resorthotels and into an inn of style thatcaptures some of the spirit of theregion itself. See p. 251.

• Palace Hotel do Buçaco (Buçaco;& 23/193-79-70): This palace,built between 1888 and 1907 as asylvan refuge for the royal family,saw tragedy early. A year after itscompletion, the king and his old-est son were assassinated, leavingQueen Amélia to grieve within itsazulejo-sheathed walls. In 1910, thepalace’s enterprising Swiss chef per-suaded the government to allowhim to transform the place into anupscale hotel. Bittersweet memoriesof its royal past still seem to lingerwithin the thick walls. See p. 295.

• Ipanema Park Hotel (Porto;& 22/532-21-00): One of theleading government-rated five-starhotels in the north of Portugaloffers 15 floors of grand comfortwith the largest roster of facilitiesin the city, including an outdoor

pool with a panoramic view onthe 15th floor. This bastion ofgood taste and luxury is as popu-lar with tourists as it is with itsbusiness clients. See p. 321.

• Infante de Sagres (Porto; & 22/339-85-00): A textile magnatebuilt this hotel in 1951 in the styleof a Portuguese manor house. Itselegant detailing makes it appearmuch older than it is. It’s the mostnostalgic, elegant, and ornate hotelin Porto. The managers began theircareers here as teenage bellboys, andthe staff members have obviouspride in their hotel. See p. 320.

• Reid’s Palace (Funchal; & 800/223-6800 in the U.S., or 29/171-71-71): For more than a cen-tury, Reid’s has fulfilled the colo-nial fantasies of every Britishimperialist abroad. Set on a rockypromontory, it serves tea promptlyat 4pm, contains English antiquesthat the Portuguese staff waxesonce a week, and plays chimes toannounce the beginning of thedinner service. Founded in 1891and enlarged in 1968, it featuresterraced gardens spilling down tothe sea and a very correct clientelethat once included WinstonChurchill. See p. 380.

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5 The Best Pousadas• Pousada de São Filipe (Setúbal;

& 26/552-38-44): During the1500s, this structure served as adefensive link in a chain offortresses surrounding Lisbon.Today it boasts antique azulejos(glazed earthenware tiles), pano-ramic views of the town, and akeen sense of Portuguese history.The rooms are simple (somemight say monastic) but comfort-able and tidy. See p. 187.

• Pousada do Castelo (Óbidos;& 26/295-50-80): This pousada

lies in a wing of the castle thatprotects one of the most perfectlypreserved medieval towns in Por-tugal. In 1285, King Dinis offeredthe castle—along with the entirevillage—to his beloved QueenIsabel. Inside, the medieval aes-thetic coexists with improvedplumbing, electricity, and unob-trusive contemporary comforts.See p. 193.

• Pousada de Santa Luzia (Elvas;& 26/863-74-70): This pousadaopened in 1942 during the most

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horrible days of World War II,near the strategic border crossingbetween neutral Portugal and Fas-cist Spain. Vaguely Moorish indesign, with two low-slung stories,it was most recently renovated in1992. It offers comfortable, color-ful lodgings. See p. 266.

• Pousada da Rainha Santa Isabel(Estremoz; & 26/833-20-75):Housed in a structure originallybuilt during the Middle Ages, theSanta Isabel is the most lavishpousada in Portugal. Reproduc-tions of 17th-century antiques,about .5 hectares (1.2 acres) ofgleaming marble, and elaboratelydetailed tapestries create one ofthe most authentic old-fashioned

decors in the region. Guests haveincluded Vasco da Gama, who wasreceived here by Dom Manuelbefore the explorer’s departure forIndia. See p. 263.

• Pousada dos Lóios (Evora; & 26/673-00-70): This pousada wasconceived as a monastery andrebuilt in 1485 adjacent to thetown’s ancient Roman temple.The purity of its design and theabsence of encroachments fromthe modern world contribute toone of the most aestheticallythrilling experiences in Portugal.Inside there are no traces left ofits original austerity—everythingis luxurious and comfortable. See p. 269.

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6 The Best Restaurants• Clara (Lisbon; & 21/885-30-53):

This elegant citadel with its softpiano music is a refined diningroom serving a remarkable Por-tuguese and international cuisinethat has made it a favorite amongserious palates. The chefs take spe-cial care with all their ingredients,and we sing their praise year afteryear for their impeccable offerings.See p. 92.

• Gambrinus (Lisbon; & 21/342-14-66): It isn’t as upscale as someof its competitors or the preferredrendezvous of the country’s mostdistinguished aristocrats. None-theless, this is one of the hippest,best-managed seafood restaurantsin Lisbon; the stand-up bar prof-fers an astonishing array of shell-fish. Enjoy a glass of dry whiteport accompanied by some of themost exotic seafood in the Atlantic.See p. 90.

• Casa da Comida (Lisbon; & 21/388-53-76): This restaurant isprobably at its best on foggyevenings, when roaring fireplacesremove the damp chill from the air.

Don’t let the prosaic name foolyou—some visitors prefer its Por-tuguese-French cuisine over thefood at any other restaurant in Lis-bon. Portions are ample, and theambience is bracing and healthful.See p. 92.

• Conventual (Lisbon; & 21/390-91-96): The facade that shieldsthis restaurant from the medievalsquare is as severe as that of aconvent—which, in fact, it usedto be. Inside you’re likely to findthe prime minister of Portugal din-ing with assorted ministers. You’llalways find a collection of panelsfrom antique churches, and richbut refined cuisine based on thebourgeois traditions of Old Portu-gal. See p. 94.

• Cozinha Velha (Queluz; & 21/435-02-32): During the 1700s,food for the monarchy’s most lav-ish banquets was prepared here(the name means “old kitchen”).Today the high-ceilinged kitchensserve an unusual restaurant whosecuisine reflects the old days of Por-tuguese royalty. Dishes include

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cataplana, a savory fish stew withclams, shrimp, and monkfish.Equally outstanding is soufflélikebacalhau espiritual (codfish), whichtakes 45 minutes to prepare andshould be ordered when you makeyour reservation. The restaurant iscelebrated for its desserts, many ofwhich are based on ancient con-vent recipes. See p. 164.

• Restaurante Porto de SantaMaria (Guincho; & 21/487-10-36 or 21/487-02-40): The under-stated beige-and-white decorhighlights the restaurant’s bub-bling aquarium and sea view. Themenu lists nearly every conceiv-able kind of shellfish, served in thefreshest possible combinations ina justifiably popular dining room.See p. 162.

• Four Seasons (in the PalácioHotel, Estoril; & 21/464-80-00): This tranquil restaurant, withits rich colors and artful accents,has been a fixture in Estoril sincethe days when deposed European

monarchs assembled here withtheir entourages. High glamour,old-world service, and impeccablyprepared international cuisine arethis place’s hallmarks. See p. 149.

• Casa Velha (Quinta do Lago,near Almancil; & 28/939-49-83): On a rocky hilltop above themodern resort of Quinta do Lago(with which it is not associated),this restaurant occupies a century-old farmhouse, with kitchensmodernized for the preparation ofgourmet food. The sophisticatedcuisine includes preparations ofupscale French and Portugueserecipes. See p. 243.

• Churrascão do Mar (Porto;& 22/609-63-82): Porto’s mostelegant restaurant, serving a Brazil-ian cuisine, is housed in a 19th-cen-tury antique manor restored to itsBelle Epoque glory. The town’sfinest chefs turn out a savory cui-sine specializing in grilled seafood.See p. 325.

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7 The Best Romantic Getaways• Guincho: On the Estoril Coast,

9km (51⁄2 miles) northwest of Cas-cais, this is the westernmost pointin continental Europe. It’s a dra-matic, spectacular site wherewaves crash against three sides of arestored 17th-century fortress(now the Hotel do Guincho, oneof the most unusual, luxurioushotels in Europe). Balconies—best shared with a loved one—overlook the panoramic scene,with beaches on both sides. Thecrashing surf makes good back-ground music for a torrid affairstraight out of a romance novel.See section 3 in chapter 5.

• Sintra: Since the time of theMoorish occupation, Sintra hasbeen considered one of the mostbeautiful and desirable sites in

Portugal. Sintra has been favoredby Catholic monarchs, industrymoguls, and members of the Por-tuguese gentry. See section 5 inchapter 5.

• Serra de Arrábida: This whale-shape ridge never exceeds 1,525m(5,000 ft.) in height. The massesof wildflowers that flank its sidesare among the most colorful andvaried in Iberia. The Serra liesbetween Sesimbra and Setúbal,across the estuary of the Tagusfrom Lisbon. En route from Lis-bon, you’ll find crowded andsecluded beaches, a medievalCapuchin monastery (the Con-vento Novo), and a smattering ofgood restaurants. The town of Ses-imbra, with its historic, sleepymain square and ruined fortresses,

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offers bars, restaurants, andinsight into the Iberia of a bygoneera. See sections 2 through 4 inchapter 6.

• Óbidos: After Dom Afonso Hen-ríques wrenched the village fromthe Moors, he offered Óbidos as a wedding gift to his betrothed,his beloved Isabel. The villageremained the personal property ofthe queens of Portugal until 1834.Today the town’s ramparts, cob-blestone streets, and 14th-centuryfacades make Óbidos the mostromantic spot in Portugal. See sec-tion 1 in chapter 7.

• Buçaco: This forest figures moreprominently in the national psychethan any other in Portugal, partlybecause of its association with thedoomed royal family. In the 7thcentury, Benedictine and Capuchinmonks labored to diversify thenumber of exotic trees that flourishin the forest. Around 1900, thePortuguese royal family built apalace here—but spent only a fewsummers before assassinations andrevolutions changed the role of themonarchy forever. Today the palacefunctions as a supremely romantichotel. See section 4 in chapter 10.

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8 The Best Palaces & Castles• Castelo de São Jorge (the

Alfama, Lisbon; & 21/887-72-44): This hilltop has long beenvalued as a fortification to protectsettlements along the Tagus.Today the bulky castle crowns oneof the most densely populatedmedieval neighborhoods of Lis-bon, the Alfama. It encompasses anostalgic collection of thick stonewalls, medieval battlements,Catholic and feudal iconography,verdant landscaping, and sweep-ing views of one of Europe’s great-est harbors. See p. 108.

• Palácio Nacional de Queluz(near Lisbon; & 21/434-38-60):Designed for the presentation ofmusic and royal receptions in the1700s, this castle was modeled as amore intimate version of Ver-sailles. It’s a symmetrical buildingringed with gardens, fountains,and sculptures of mythical heroesand maidens. Although gilt, crys-tal, and frescoes fill its interior,most Portuguese are proudest ofthe azulejos room, where hand-painted blue-and-white tilesdepict day-to-day life in the Por-tuguese colonies of Macao andBrazil. See p. 163.

• Palácio Nacional de Pena (Sintra;& 21/923-73-00): Only a cosmo-politan 19th-century courtier couldhave produced this eclectic, expen-sive melange of architectural styles.Set in a 200-hectare (495-acre)walled park, it was commissionedby the German-born consort of thePortuguese queen; it reminds somevisitors of the Bavarian castles ofMad King Ludwig. Appointedwith heavy furnishings and richornamentation, it’s a symbol ofthe Portuguese monarchs in theirmost aesthetically decadent stages.See p. 167.

• Castelo dos Mouros (Sintra;& 21/923-73-00): In the 19thcentury, the monarchs ordered thatthis castle, evocative of the Moor-ish occupation of Portugal, remainas a ruined ornament to embellishtheir sprawling parks and gardens.Set near the much larger, muchmore ornate Pena palace (seeabove), the squat, thick-walledfortress was begun around A.D. 750by the Moors and captured withthe help of Scandinavian Crusadersin 1147. It retains its jagged battle-ments, a quartet of eroded towers,and a ruined Romanesque chapel

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erected by the Portuguese as a sym-bol of their domination of formerMoorish territories. See p. 168.

• Palace Hotel do Buçaco (Buçaco;& 23/193-79-70): Of all thebuildings in this list, the Palace ofBuçaco is the most importantnational icon. Completed in 1907,it’s also the only one that operatesas a hotel, allowing visitors to sleep

within the walls of a former royalpalace. Constructed from marble,bronze, stained glass, and exotichardwoods, and inspired by thegreatest buildings in the empire, itrepresents more poignantly thanany other Portuguese palace thefinal days of the doomed aristoc-racy. See p. 295.

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9 The Best Museums• Museu da Fundação Calouste

Gulbenkian (Lisbon; & 21/782-30-00): Its namesake was anArmenian oil czar, Calouste Gul-benkian (1869–1955), whose for-tune derived from a 5% royalty onmost of the oil pumped out ofIraq. His eclectic collections ofAsian and European sculpture,paintings, antique coins, carpets,and furniture are on display in amodern compound in a lush gar-den. See p. 114.

• Museu Nacional dos Coches (Lis-bon; & 21/361-08-50): Foundedby Queen Amélia in 1904, whenthe horse-drawn buggy was becom-ing obsolete, this museum is on thepremises of the riding school of thePalácio do Belém (the official homeof the Portuguese president). Itcontains dozens of magnificentstate carriages, some decorated withdepictions of Portugal’s maritimediscoveries. See p. 112.

• Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga(Lisbon; & 21/391-28-00): Inthe 1830s, the power of many ofPortugal’s fabulously wealthymonasteries was violently curbed.Many of the monasteries’ art treas-ures, including the country’s bestcollection of Portuguese primi-tives, as well as gold and silverplate crafted from raw materialsmined in India, are displayed atthe 17th-century palace of thecounts of Alvor. See p. 113.

• Museu de Marinha (Lisbon;& 21/362-00-19): The mostimportant maritime museum in theworld—a rich tribute to Portugal’sAge of Exploration—is in the westwing of the Jerónimos Monastery.The thousands of displays includeroyal galleons dripping with giltand ringed with depictions of salt-water dragons and sea serpents.See p. 112.

10 The Best Churches & Abbeys• Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (Belém;

& 21/362-00-34): More thanany other ecclesiastical buildingin Portugal, this complex repre-sents the wealth that poured intoLisbon from the colonies duringthe Age of Discovery. Begun in 1502 in Belém, the seaportnear the gates of Lisbon, it’s theworld’s most distinctive Manuelinechurch. Richly ornate and unlike

any other building in Europe, ithas, among other features, columnscarved in patterns inspired by therigging of Portuguese caravels ladenwith riches from Brazil and India.See p. 110.

• Palácio Nacional de Mafra(Mafra; & 26/181-75-50): Theconvent was originally intended tohouse only about a dozen monks,but after the king of Portugal was

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blessed with an heir, he becameobsessed with its architecture andvastly augmented its scale. Con-struction began in 1717, and fund-ing came from gold imported fromPortuguese settlements in Brazil.Some 50,000 laborers toiled morethan 13 years to complete the con-vent. Today the buildings alonecover 4 hectares (9.9 acres) andinclude a royal palace as well asaccommodations for 300 monks.A park whose outer wall measures19km (12 miles) surrounds thecomplex. See p. 174.

• Mosteiro de Santa Maria(Alcobaça; & 26/250-51-20):More closely associated with thePortuguese wars against the Moorsthan almost any other site in Iberia,this monastery was a gift from thefirst Portuguese king (Afonso Hen-ríques) to the Cistercians in 1153.As part of one of the most dramaticland-improvement projects in Por-tuguese history, a community ofascetic monks cleared the sur-rounding forests, planted crops,dug irrigation ditches, and built asoaring church (completed in1253) that critics cite as one of the

purest and most artfully simple inEurope. See p. 197.

• Mosteiro de Santa Maria daVitória (Batalha; & 24/476-54-97): In 1385, the CastilianSpaniards and the Portuguese, ledby a youth who had been crownedking only a week before, fought oneof the most crucial battles in Iberianhistory. The outcome ensured Por-tugal’s independence for another200 years. It was celebrated withthe construction of the monasteryat Batalha, whose style is a triumphof the Manueline and FlamboyantGothic styles. See p. 203.

• Convento da Ordem de Cristo(Tomar; & 24/931-34-81): Builtin 1160 along the most hotly con-tested Muslim-Christian border inIberia, this convent was originallyintended as a monastic fortress.Successive building programs lastedhalf a millennium, ultimately creat-ing a museum of diverse architec-tural styles. Some of the interiorwindows, adorned with stone carv-ings of ropes, coral, frigate masts,seaweed, cables, and cork trees, arethe most splendid examples ofManueline decoration in the world.See p. 256.

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11 The Best WinesFor generations, much of what theEnglish-speaking world knew aboutPortugal came from the reports thatwine merchants brought back toBritain from the wineries of theDouro Valley. Today Portugal isfamous throughout the world for itsport wines, and many parts of centraland northern Portugal are coveredwith well-tended vines sprouting fromintricately laid-out terraces thatdescend verdant hillsides.

• Port: Known for decades as theEnglishman’s wine, port was oncethe drink uncorked for toasting in England. In gentlemen’s clubs,

vintage port (only 1% of all portmade) was dispensed from a crystaldecanter. Later, when the Englishworking classes started drinking lesssuperior port in Midland milltowns, they often spiked it withlemon. Today the French consumealmost three times the amount ofport that the British do.

Some 40 varieties of grape gointo making port. Made fromgrapes grown in rich lava soil, porttoday is either vintage or blended,and ranges from whites to full-bodied tawnies and reds. The lat-ter is often consumed at the end of

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a meal with cheese, fruit, or nuts.You can visit a port-wine lodge tolearn more about port—and, moreimportant, to taste it. The bestlodges to visit are concentrated inVila Nova de Gaia, a suburb ofPorto across the Douro from Porto’scommercial center.

• Vinhos Verdes (pronounced“veen-yosh vair-desh”): These“green wines” are more lemony incolor. Many come from the Minhodistrict in northwest Portugal,which, like Galicia in the north ofSpain, gets an abundance of rain.Cultivated in a humid atmosphere,the grapes are picked while young.Some wine aficionados don’t con-sider this wine serious, finding ittoo light. With its fruity flavor, it’ssaid to suggest the cool breezes ofsummer. It’s often served with fish,and many Portuguese use it as athirst quencher in the way anAmerican might consume a softdrink. The finest vinhos verdes arefrom Monção, just south of theriver Minho. Those from Ama-rante are also praised.

• Dão: Dão is produced fromgrapes grown just south of theDouro in the north’s mountainousheartland. “Our vines have tendergrapes” goes the saying through-out the valleys of Mondego andDão, each split by a river. Sum-mers are fiery hot and winters wet,cold, and often bitter. A lot ofDão wine is red, notably the vin-hos maduros, matured in oakcasks for nearly 2 years before

being bottled. The wine is velvetyin texture and often accompaniesroasts. At almost every restaurantin Portugal, you’ll encountereither branco (white) or Dão tinto(red). The best bottles of red Dãowine are the reserve (“reserva” isprinted on the label). Othernames to look for include Portados Cavaleiros and Terras Altas.(No one seems to agree on how topronounce the name—daw-ng,da-ow, or, least flattering, dung.)

• Madeira: Grown from grapesrooted in the island’s volcanic soil,this wine traces its origins to 1419.Its history is similar to that of port,in that it was highly prized by aris-tocratic British families. GeorgeWashington was among the wine’searly admirers, although theMadeira he consumed little resem-bled the product bottled today.Modern Madeira wines are lighterand drier than the thick, sweetkinds favored by generations past.

The wine, which is fortified andblended, includes such varieties asMalmsey, Malvasia, and Boal—sweet, heavy wines usually servedwith dessert or at the end of a meal.The less sweet Verdelho is oftenconsumed as a light drink betweenmeals, in much the same way thata Spaniard downs a glass of sherry.Dry and light, Sercial is best as anaperitif and is often served in Por-tugal with toasted and saltedalmonds. None of these wines islikely to be consumed with themain dish at dinner.

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12 The Best Offbeat Trips• Horseback Riding Along the

Coast: The Atlantic Ocean is thelivelihood of many Portuguese andthe inspiration for a number ofrides along its beaches. An Ameri-can company, Equitour, offers

these treks. (For more details, referto section 14 in chapter 2). In addi-tion to beach riding, there istrekking through olive groves, vine-yards, pine forests, and lagoons.Seeing this beautiful country from

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the back of a well-trained, even-tempered Lusitano is a rewardingexperience.

• Appreciating Manueline Archi-tecture: Manuelino—as it’s knownin Portuguese—marked a dramaticartistic shift from the late Gothicstyle prevalent during the reign ofKing Dom Manuel. It mixes Chris-tian motifs with shells, ropes, andstrange aquatic shapes and is usu-ally crowned with heraldic or reli-gious symbols. The best example isthe grand Monastery of Jerónimosin Belém, outside Lisbon, datingfrom the 16th century. Anothertowering example is the mysteriousand astrologic visions of the famouswindow of the Convent of Christin Tomar, the bastion of theKnights Templar in days gone by.

• Visiting the Lost Continent ofAtlantis: One of the most offbeattravel experiences in Europe is atrip to the Azores. Mythologistsbelieve the remote Portugueseislands in the mid-Atlantic are theonly remnants of the lost continentof Atlantis. For hundreds of yearsthey were considered the end of theEarth, the outer limits of the Euro-pean sphere of influence, beyondwhich ships could not go. Eventoday they’re a verdant but lonelyarchipelago where the winds of theocean meet, cyclones call on eachother, and urbanites can lose them-selves in fog-bound contact withthe sea. Although space limitationsdo not allow us to document thesefascinating islands in this guide, anybranch of a Portuguese nationaltourist office can provide you withinformation.

• Paying a Call on Berlenga Island:Berlenga is a granite island 11km

(7 miles) west of the Portuguesecoastline. The island has alwaysbeen the first line of defense againstinvaders from the sea. In 1666, 28Portuguese tried to withstand1,500 Spaniards who bombardedthe site from 15 ships. A medievalfortress demolished in the battlewas rebuilt several decades later andtoday houses a no-frills hostel. Theentire island and the rocky, unin-habited archipelago that surroundsit are a designated nature reservewhose flora and fauna—both aboveand below the surface of the sea—are protected from developmentand destruction. Boat transportdeparts from the Peniche Peninsula,about 92km (57 miles) north ofLisbon. See chapter 7.

• Heading “Beyond the Moun-tains”: The northernmost districtof Trás-os-Montes is a wild, ruggedland whose name means “beyondthe mountains.” Exploring thisregion provides a glimpse into aPortugal infrequently seen by out-siders. Most of the population livesin deep valleys, often in traditionalhouses built of shale or granite, andspeaks a dialect of Galician similarto that spoken just across the bor-der in northwestern Spain. Muchof the plateau is arid and rocky, butswift rivers and streams providewater for irrigation, and thermalsprings have bubbled out of theearth since at least Roman times.You can drive through these savagelandscapes, but don’t expect super-highways. What you’ll find areruins of pre-Roman fortresses, dol-mens, and cromlechs erected byprehistoric Celts, and decaying oldchurches. See chapter 12.

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13 The Best ShoppingHere’s a list of some of the moreenchanting artifacts and handcraftsproduced in Portugal:

• Arraiolos Carpets: The Moorishtraditions that once prevailed inthe town of Arraiolos, where the

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carpets are still manufactured,inspired their intricate stitching.Teams of embroiderers and weaverswork for many days, using purewool in combinations of petitpoint with more widely spacedponto largo cross-stitches. Theresulting depictions of garlands offruit and flowers (a loose interpre-tation of French Aubusson car-pets) and animals scamperingaround idealized gardens (a themevaguely inspired by carpets fromPersia and Turkey) are some of themost charming items for sale inPortugal. The size of the piece andthe intricacy of the design deter-mine the price, which is often lessthan half what you’d pay in NorthAmerica. If you can’t make it toArraiolos, you’ll find the carpetsfor sale at outlets in Lisbon.

• Ceramics & Tiles: Early in Portu-gal’s history, builders learned tocompensate for the lack of lumberby perfecting the arts of masonry,stuccoing, and ceramics. All wereused to construct the country’ssturdy, termite-proof buildings.After the ouster of the Moors, theiraesthetic endured in the designspainted on tiles and ceramic plates,vessels, and jugs. Later, styles fromHolland, England, and Chinacombined to influence a rich tradi-tion of pottery-making. The mostprevalent of these appear as theblue-and-white azulejos (tiles), eachwith an individual design, whichadorn thousands of indoor andoutdoor walls throughout thecountry. Equally charming are thethousands of plates, wine and

water jugs, and vases adorned withsylvan landscapes populated withmythical creatures. New and (to alesser extent) antique samples ofany of these items can be acquiredat outlets throughout Portugal.

• Jewelry: In Portugal, any piece ofjewelry advertised as “gold” mustcontain at least 19.2 karats. Thispurity allows thousands of jewelersto spin the shining stuff into deli-cate filigree work with astoundingdetail. Whether you opt for a sim-ple brooch or for a depiction ingold or filigreed silver of an 18th-century caravel in full four-mastedsail, Portugal produces jewelry wor-thy of an infanta’s dowry at pricesmore reasonable than you mightexpect. The country abounds injewelry stores.

• Handcrafts: For centuries, thedesign and fabrication of lace, rugs,hand-knit clothing, wood carvings,and embroidered linens haveevolved in homes and workshopsthroughout Portugal. Althoughsome of the cruder objects availablefor sale are a bit clunky, the bestcan be called art. From the north tothe south, store after store offersregional handcrafts.

• Leather Goods: Iberia has alwaysbeen a land of animal husbandry,bullfighting, and cattle breeding,and the Portuguese leather-makingindustry is known throughout theworld. Its products include jackets,shoes, pocketbooks, and wallets, allof which sell for prices much morereasonable than those outside Por-tugal. The best stores are concen-trated in Lisbon.

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