54SUMMER 2010

www.benevolencija.eu.org/salon

BULLETIN OF JEWISH SOCIETY“THE FRIENDS OF LA BENEVOLENCIJA”

BILTEN JEVREJSKE ZAJEDNICE“PRIJATELJI LA BENEVOLENCIJE”

UMJESTOUVODA

THE BULLETIN IS SPONSORED BY JEWISH CARE

Nekoliko mjeseci nas dijeli odpredhodnog izdanja SALON-a.To je period kada bi uredni{tvotrebalo da sastavi temu zauvodnik za sljedeci SALON.Kako uvodnik treba da budeodraz mi{ljenja i pogleda~itaoca, a ovi se na `alost, postarom obi~aju ne javljaju,o~ito je da nismo bili u situacijida uvodnik za ovaj brojSALONA bude u tomkontekstu.

Sre}a u nevol ji, pa tema idoga|aja uvijek ima na pretek.

Posljednjih mjeseci svjedocismo drame {to se odigravala“dvadest hiljada milja podmorem”a koja se prenijela napovr{inu i zaprijetila ljudskomopstanku; po`ar na naftojplatformi u Meksi~kom zalivui izlazak ogromne mase naftena povr{inu , {to ljudsk imumom i pomo}u robota, abogami pomalo i s bo`jompomo}i (kako na{ narod uzadnje vrijema sve vi{e voli dase izrazi), curenje jezaustavljeno. Ali dokle? Je litaj nekakav ventil, ~ije smozatvaranje mogli gledati u ivo,dovoljna garancija da ona silnamasa nafte koja se stvaralamilion ima godina, usljedogromnog pritiskajednostavno ne prob ijezemljinu koru na tom“na~etom” mjestu i razlije sepo okeanu. Ne znamo dovoljnotehni~ke detalje, ali se nadamo

da }e stru~njaci u toj oblastive} ne{to smisl iti i da senajgore ne}e dogoditi. Ono {toje te{ko ostvariti i gdje armijain`injera i nau~nika ne mo`epomo}i, jeste zaustaviti stalnuljudsku pohlepu, neprestanuborbu protiv prirode, kako bise ova ukrotila. Ne razmi{ljamoo tome da se ona mo`e jednogadana ljuto osvetiti. Ve} nas jenekoliko pu ta upozorila istalno upozorava; “ozonskerupe”, naftne mrlje, ~ernobilji,tajfun i il iti cikloni sako jekavim (ug lavnom`enskim!) imenima, poplave,pa sad ova najve}a dosad naftnamrlja…Sve do jednom…

Nekako istovremeno, kako seod igravala ona drama sanaftnom mrljom, na drugomkraju svijeta odigravala sejedna druga drama, sa vedrijomkonotacijom od one prve:Svjetsko prvenstvo u fudbalu.Stoga smo jedan dio ovog ljetaimali malo vi{e razloga dasjedimo u ku}i, uz pivo ili uz` e n u / m u ` a / p a r t n e r i c u /partnera, ili uz oboje, kako ko.Osobno mislim da je za razlikuod fudbala koji nam obi~noprikazuju puleni Barcelone,Manchester United, Chelsea idrugi, ovaj sv jetski b ioug lavnom- ni`erazredan.(Ostavljamo otvorena vrataSALON-a za drug~i ja

mi{ljenja). Kako god, spektaklipak nije izostao.

14. jula prisustvovali smoklavirskom koncertu mladeIvane Gavri}. LondonskiWigmore Hall, glasovi tadvorana kao izvori{te mladihtalenata, ugostila je ovu mladuSarajku, da na podijumuizvede djela Bartoka, [uberta,Rahmanjinova i djela drugihmajstora. Na~in na ko ji jeIvana izvodila ove majstore,kazuje zasigurno da se vi{e neradi o nekoj mladoj nadi, ve} osazrelom umjetniku, koji semo`e uporediti sa drug imvrhunskim svjetsk impijanistima. Za`elimo na{ojIvani dugo i sretno putovanjena putevima slave.

1. augusta 2010 otvorena je usjeverno-zapadnom dijeluLondona nova zgrada JewishCare (Amélie House), najve}ejev rejske dobro tvorneorganizacije u VelikojBritaniji. Velelepno zdanjesadr`i stanove namjen jeneuglavnom pre`iv jelimaholokausta u II svjetskom ratu,zatim starim i iznemoglimlicima. Stanari ce imati svuneophodnu njegu i pa`nju, auz kompleks uklju~ene su iprodavnice, restoran, mali parkza odmor i druge pogodnosti.Pod istim krovom nalazi se idnevni centar za razneaktinosti, rekreativni centar, aposebnu pa`nju i tretman imati}e oni koji pate od demencije(nisam neki stru~njak u tome,ali mislim da se radi o raznimoblicima i stepenimasenilnosti). U cjelokupnom

zdanju nalazi se i centrala Jew-ish Care. Ova informacija za{iri krug na{ih ~itaoca mo`da inije od velike va`nosti, ali netreba smetnuti sa uma da je Jew-ish Care i sponsor “Prijatelja Labenevo lencije”- ogrankasarajevske Jevrejske zajednice,i da sve na{e ak tivnosti uLondonu, kao i ovaj SALONkoji ~itate, ne bi bili mogu}ibez pomo}i koju pru`a JewishCare.

U periodu izme|u predhodnogi ovog bro ja SALON-anapravili smo dva izleta uKnole Park i Hastings. KnolePark poznat je po velelepnomdvorcu. Knjige ka`u da ga jeizgrad io neki ThomasCranmer- Arhiepiskop od Can-terbury-a oko 1500 godine.Dvorac se toliko svidio onomtamanitelju ena, Henry-u VIII,da je jednostavno oteo dvoracod gazde. Kad je imao vlast-mog lo mu se. Mnoge suli~nosti kroz istoriju defilovaledvorcem i imale ga uvlasni{tvu, a kada bi zidovimogli pri~ati, imali bi {ta iispri~ati; mi bi svakakoodabrali onu pri~u koja govorio Virginiji Wolf i njen imslatkim nesta{lucima satada{njom gazdaricom dvorca.No da ne budemo zlobni i dane duljimo, imalo se {ta ~uti ividjeti. U Hastings smo po{linebi li uhvatili koji sun~evzrak od ostrvskog nazovi ljeta.Dobro smo pro{li, te nismouhvatili kakvu prahladu iline{to gore. No gdje god da seode, u ovoj zemlji uvijek imane{to novo vidjeti i ~uti.

Dragan Ungar

Several months have passedsince the last issue of SaLon.That is the period over whichthe editors are supposed tocome with a theme for the edi-torial for the upcoming SaLon.The editorial is supposed to re-flect the opinions and views ofthe readers but since the read-ers, as usual, did not respondwe obviously were not in theposition to write the editorial tothis issue in that context.Luckily enough there are alwaysplenty of themes and events.Over the few previous monthswe witnessed a drama that tookplace “twenty thousand milesunder the sea”. This drama wastaken to the surface and threat-ened the existence of humankind – it was the fire on the oilplatform in the Bay of Mexicoand leakage of huge amount ofoil to the surface. Thanks tohuman intellect, the assistanceof robots and the help of God(as our people started express-ing themselves since recently)the leakage was stopped. Butfor how long? Is the valve, theclosing of which was shownlive on TV for us to see, a suffi-cient guarantee that the hugeamount of oil generated for mil-lions of years will not, underpressure, burst the Earth’s crustat the already damaged placeand spread over the ocean as aconsequence? Technical de-tails are not sufficiently knownto us but we hope that expertsin this field will come to a solu-tion by which to avoid the worstoutcome. The one thing that ishard to achieve and where thewhole army of engineers andscientists cannot be of any helpis to stop the permanent humangreed, the constant fight

against nature in order to tameit. No thoughts are spared onthe fact that it might seek a bit-ter revenge. The nature keepswarning us all the time: “ozoneholes”, oil spills, Chernobyl, ty-phoons, cy-clones withd i f f e r e n t(mainly fe-male) names,floods andthis so far thelargest o ilspill. Unt ilwhen?About thesame timewhen thedrama withthe oil spilltook placea n o t h e rdrama wasunfolding onthe otherside o f theworld with a brighter connota-tion: World Football Cup. Dur-ing a part of this summer thatwas the reason for us to sit athome provided or not providedwith sufficient supplies of beer,with or without a wife/husband/partner. However, it is my opin-ion that compared to footballusually presented to us by theplayers of Barcelona, Manches-ter United, Chelsea and othersthis international football wasmainly of a lower class (SaLondoor is open for other opinionsas well). But in spite of that thespectacle was there for us toenjoy.On the 14th of July we attendedthe concert of the young pian-ist Ivana Gavri}. The LondonWigmore Hall, well known for

its role in promoting young tal-ents, hosted this pianist bornin Sarajevo. She played for usthe works of Beethoven,Schubert, Rachmaninov andother composers. The wayIvana played proves that she isnot a young hopeful any more

but a mature artist to be com-pared to other internationallyrecognized pianists. Let us wishour Ivana a long and happyvoyage on her path of fame.On the1st August 2010 A newJewish Care bui lding, theAmélie House, was opened inthe north-west part of London.This magnificent bu ildinghouses flats intended mostlyfor Holocoust survivors fromthe Second World War and alsofor old and frail people. The resi-dents will be provided with thenecessary care and attention.This whole site covers shops arestaurant, a small garden andother amenities. Part of thebuilding will provide a day cen-tre with various activities wherespecial attention will be paid tothose suffering from dementia(I am not an expert in this field,but I think that this is to do withdifferent forms and degrees ofsenility) The Head Office ofJewish Care is also to be housedhere. This information might notbe of great importance for manyof our readers but it is neces-sary to keep in mind that Jew-ish Care is the sponsor of “LaBenevolencija” – branch ofSarajevo Jewish Communityand that all our activities herein London, including this SaLon

that you are readingwould not be possi-ble without the help providedby Jewish Care.During the period between theprevious and this i ssue ofSaLon we were on two outings.The first one was to Knole Park

and the other to Hastings.Knole Park is known for itsbeautiful house. One can readin the books that it was built byThomas Bourchier, The Arch-bishop of Canterbury some timearound 1500. Henry the VIII, theexterminator of his wives likedthe place so much that he sim-ply took it from its owner. Hav-ing the power he could getaway with it. Many differentpeople passed through thathouse and owned it and if thewalls could talk they wouldhave many an interesting thingto tell; if we were to chose wewould pick the story about Vir-ginia Wolf and her sweet mis-chief with the house landladyat that time. But not to be mali-cious and to make the storyshorter we all agreed that thehouse offered us many newthings to see and hear about.Hastings, on the other handwas chosen with the hope thatit might offer us a ray or two ofsunshine during this island socalled summer. We were luckyand did not catch any cold. It istrue, though, that wherever wego in this country there are al-ways new things for us to ex-perience.Dragan Ungar.

IN PLACE OF INTRODUCTION

Dr. Sveto se vi{e putapredstavio na{oj zajednicidivnim pri~ama o sebi kaoglobtroteru. O toj njegovojstrasti smo popri~ali sa njim

P. Ka`u da je naskuplji, ali inajbol ji na~in da se u~i

geografija taj da se putuje umjesta o kojima `eliš da seinformišeš. Ti si taj temeljitina~in usvojio, ne baš u cvijetusvo je mladosti, ali si gaozbiljni shvatio i nadoknadioran ije izgubljeno v rijeme,obilaze}i mnoga podru~ja nakoje ne stupa noga nas obi~nihturista. Šta je to što je jednog iina~e znati`eljnog ljekaratoliko privuklo ovom na~inukorištenja slobodnog vremenakoje mu je na raspolaganju?

O.Ta~no je da su putovanjanajbolji na~in da se u~i i nau~igeografija. Me|utim, ni jeu~enje geografije, a pogotovone da bih se informisao o

posje}enim mjestima (to do|ekasnije), bio povod za mojaputovan ja. Znat i`el ja?Pustolovina? Avantu ra?Proširivanje vidika? Volim daputujem, da sre}em nove ljude,nove predjele, nove razli~ite

stvari koje jednostavno nemo`eš na}i nigdje drugdje.Vol im putovanja jer memijenjaju, oboga}uju i u~edrugim kulturama ivrijednost ima. Vo lim daputujem da bih se opustio iosjetio osobi tosti svakogodredišta te njegovu kulturui narod!

Ja sam svoja pu tovanjazapo~eo još kao klinac od 3-4 godine putuju}i i obilaze}iku}nu avliju. Kasni je,odrastaju}i , po lako ipostepeno, sam proširivaoteritoriju obilazaka. Prvolokaln i reon: Kova~i}i.Rodjen sam u Beogradskoj, a

odrastao u Zagreba~koj ulici(sic!). Obije, kao i ostale ulicenazvane po gradovima bivšeJugoslavije (Sp litska,Ljubljanska, Trnovska,Nevesinjska, itd..), pripadajuKova~i}ima, podru~ju koje seprostire od Miljacke na sjeverudo Jevrejskog groblja premajugu i od Vrbanja mosta naistoku do Pol joprivredno-šumarskog fakul teta nazapadu; krajnja periferijatadašnjeg Sarajeva. Podanašn jim kri teri jumimavjerovatno bi se zvalosuburbija ili residental area. Zaku}ne potrebe išao sam daberem radi~, (najbolja inajjeftinija salata), ko ji jerastao uz tarabe i ograde. Aproviruju}i kroz rupe natarabama, na kojima svaštapiše, a ponekad to nije to štopiše, otkrivao se za mene jedannovi nepoznati svijet. Svijetdivnih ku}a sa baštama ivrtovima, gdje su vrijednidoma}ini gajil i povr}e inedosti`ne višnje i pitomejagode. Valja nama preko

taraba; da se to pobli`e istra`i.Spojivši ugodno sa korisnim,naj idealnij i na~in bio je:plja~ka. Tako smo to poštenozvali, jer je to stvarno bilaplja~ka, kra|a, a ne nekopozajmljivanje ili otu|ivanje.Nikada sla|e vo}e nisam jeo.Da nismo, zahvaljuju}i strahui bauljaju}i po onom mraku,lomili tarabe i gazili leje, ne biimali problema za gazdama.Bi lo je i vo}a i povr}adovoljno za sve.

A onda sam pošao u prvoinostranstvo; na drugu stranu

Miljacke! PrekoVrbanja mosta, naVilsonovo Šetalište. U berbulipe. Miris lipe je neodoljivoprivla~io ~itav Juni (Lipanj!) imo`da po~etak Jula. ~aj zazimske dane. Miris i ukus idandanas osje}am, što je biojedan od razloga da prestanempiti lipov ~aj. Ovo što se danasnudi kao l ipov ~aj , nemanikakve veze sa lipom! Ja, bar,znam.

Prvo, “pravo inostranstvo” biloje putovanje upravo u London1961 godine, a prvoprekookeansko putovanje uRio de @aneiro 1977 godine.Tako sam se od jednog mališeiz ku}ne avlije, baš u cvijetumladosti, postepeno po~eorazvijati u jednog znati`eljnogputnika dok se nije završilo, nebaš u cvijetu mladosti, na kugliZemaljskoj. Kad se sve sabere~ini mi se da sam maksimalnoiskoristio “izgubljeno vrijeme”i da nemam šta da nadoknadim.

P. Bio si na dosta zanimljivihmjesta, vjerovatno si ih

do`ivljavao na razli~ite na~ine.Pa, koja su ta mjesta i da limo`eš da izdvojiš neka koja suostavila na tebe ve}i utisak oddrugih?

O. Stvarno sam bio na dostainteresantnih i zanimljivihmjesta, a ostalo ih je dalekoViše gdje nisam bio, a volio bihda jesam. Kada bih trebao daizdvojim jednu zemlju to bi bezimalo dvoumljenja bila Indija.Nevjerovatna Indija.Nevjerovatna zemlja, i lipotkontinent kako je ponekadnazivaju. Ne zato sto je suviše

Dr. SVETAN GA]INOVI]o jednom licu njegovog bi}a

Zimbabwe - Victoria waterfall

Argentina - Iguacu waterfalls

Sarajevo - Belgrade Street(now Emerika Bluma Street)

vru}a, prašnjava, p rljava,prenapu~ena, smrd ljiva;stereo tip koj i ug lavnompreovladava, ve} zato što jeInd ija najstari ja i jed inacivilizacija koja se neprekinutaprovla~i desetinama hiljadagodina.

Hronološki podaci govore daje Indija stara preko 34.000godina kada su prvi znaciljudskog postojanja u Indijiotkriveni. Od kamenog doba,preko b ronzanog doba i

civilizacije doline Inda, papreko gvozdenog doba,Vedske ere i anti~ke Indije dodana{nj ih dana te~e tanev jerovatna, neprekinu taindijska civilizacija. Sve što segovori o Indiji je mnogo ve}e,starije, šarolikije, raznovrsnijei intrigantnije nego bilo gdjena svijetu. Vjerovatno je tojedina zemlja na svijetu kojubi mogao da posjetim bezbrojputa.

Marko Polo je smatraonajbogatijom provincijom nasvijetu i zemljom ~udesa. MarkTven je smatrao “kolijevkomljudske rase, mjestom ro|enjaljudskog govora, majkomistorije, bakom legende iprabakom trad icije.Najvrijednije stvari iz ljudskeistorije su pohranjene jedino uIndiji!”

P.Vjerovatno prikupljašinformacije p rije nego štopo|eš u jedan takav do`ivljaj.Na koji na~in te samoputovanje podsti~e da sti~ešnova znanja o mjestima koja siposjetio?

O.^ini mi se da se višepripremam nakon nego prijeputovanja!? Naravno da prijepo laska na pu t pro~itamdostupne vodi~e i bedekere. Uovoj modernoj eri Internet jenezaob ilazan. Ali tek po

povratku, kada uvidiš kolikomalo znaš, ili gotovo ništa, ozemlji ili podru~jima koja siposjet io, po~inje praviistra`iva~ki rad da sve svrstašna svoje mjesto i popuniš rupesvog neznanja. Kada uz toporedaš fotografije saputovanja tek tada se po~injukockice slagati u jednu cjelinukoja daje uobli~enu slikumjesta koja sam posjetio.

P. Da l i se Tvo j do`ivl jajprodu`ava i t ime što taiskustva dijeliš sa drugima?

O.Svoja iskustva obi~nodijeliš, odnosno razmjenjuješ,sa onima koji su takod jeposjetili sli~na ili ista mjestana kojima si bio. Takoupotpunjavaš svoje vi|enje saiskustvima ljudi koji su todruga~ije, ili, mo`da baš na istina~in do`iv jeli . Sa drugestrane, svoje do`ivljaje mo`ešda preneseš i onima koji nisuimali prilike da proputuju onaudaljena mjesta na kojima sam,sticajem okolnosti, bio. Velikomi je zadovoljstvopri~injavalo što sam imaopriliku da prika`em neka od

svojih putovanja ~lanovimanašeg Kluba. Još mi je dra`eukoliko sam uspio da impribli`im, makar i djeli}, sa tihputovanja, “na koje ne stupanoga nas obi~nih turista”, apogotovo ako su u`ivali iosje}ali kao da su i sami tamo

bili. Putuju}i oboga}ujemosebe, povratkom one oko sebe!

P. Koja nova pu tovanjaplaniraš?

O. U planu je bila posjeta Perziji(uglavnom današnji Iran) uNovembru 2010 . Zbogrestrikcija (svih vrsta) kojedanašn je i ranske vlastiprovode malo je vjerovatno da}e do posjete do}i. Alternativaje Australija, Tasmanija i NoviZeland u prolje}e 2011, ali je i

to vrlo nesigurno. Otkako samotišao u penziju, finansijskasituaci ja se drasti~nopromijenila. Ne mo`e kuja sti}izeca!

P. Gdje bi volio da odeš a misliš

da Ti se `elja ne}eostvariti?

O. Mont Everest!?

P. Kako bi Ti volio da završišovaj razgovor?

O. Dobar dan, novi prijatelju,da li znaš da putovan ja

usre}uju. Volim da putujem jer,samo rad, bez putovanja, ivot~ini dosadnim! Putovanja suu`itak a vrlo ~esto mogu biti iveoma zabavna. Putovanja nepoznaju granice. Putovanjadonose iznena|enja! Dio ~ariputovan ja je unepredvidivosti! Putovanjezna~i otkrivati šta se krije izamaski! Negdje sam pro~itao dasamo putuju}i mo`emo dose}inedosti`no! Svijet je poput

knjige, a onaj koji ne putujepro~ita samo jednu stranicu!`ivot je jedno putovanje; akoputuješ imaš dva `ivota.

Razgovor vodila BrankaDanon

Zambezi river

With lions

No comment

Capetown - Nobel winers

Dr Sveto, as we call him, hasquite a few times presented toour Community beautiful sto-ries of himself as a globetrotter.We talked to him about thispassion of hisQ. They say that travelling toplaces that you would like tobe better informed about is themost expensive but the bestway to learn geography. Youhave adopted this thoroughmethod not exactly in the primeof your youth but you took itseriously and made up for thepreviously lost time. You did itby visiting many areas that thefoot of us regular tourists neverreached. What has attracted somuch a doctor that has alwaysbeen curious, it is true, to usein this way the leisure timeavailable to him?A.It is true that travelling is thebest way to learn about geog-raphy and master it. But themotivation for my travels wasnot to learn geography, espe-cially not to get information onthe places I visit (this comeslater). Was it curiosity? Adven-ture? Broadening of horizons?I like to travel, meet new peo-

ple, new regions, new thingsthat are to be found nowhereelse. I like travels because theychange me, make me richer and

teach new cultures and values.I like to travel in order to relaxand feel the particularity ofeach and every destination andits culture and people.When Iwas a three or four year old kidI started with my travels bystrolls in the garden. Later, as Iwas growing up, slowly andgradually I was extending theterritories I visited. It was the

local area first: Kova~i}i. I wasborn in the Beogradska Streetand grew up in the Zagreba~kaStreet (Sic!). Both of them likethe other streets that got theirnames after the cities of formerYugoslavia (Spl itska,

Ljubljanska, Trnovska,Nevesinjska etc.) belong toKova~i}i, a region covering thearea from Miljacka River on theNorth to The Jewish cemeteryto the South and from Vrbanjabridge on the East to the Fac-ulty of Agriculture and Forestryon the West – the ultimate edgeof Sarajevo of that time. Inpresent terms it would be calledsuburbia or residential area. Forour household I would go topick rocket leaves (the best andthe cheapest salad) that grewby the fences. Peeping throughthe holes on these fences a newworld was revealing itself. Itwas a world of beautiful houseswith flower and kitchen gardensin which the industrious dwell-ers grew vegetables, the inac-cessible cherries and strawber-ries. To examine it thoroughlyone has to climb to the otherside of the fence. In order tocombine the pleasant withthe useful the best way wasto plunder. It was our hon-est description of what wewere doing, because thisreally was plunder, steeling,not borrowing or scroung-ing. The fruit never tastedbetter than that. Therewould be no problems withthe owners were it not forour fear because of whichwe broke the fences andwalked over vegetable bedsin darkness. There wasenough fruit and vegetablesfor everybody.

Then I went abroad:to the other side ofMiljacka River; overthe Vrbanja bridge to theVilsonovo Promenade. Togather linden tree flowers thefragrance of which was irresist-ible in June and sometimes inearly July. It meant tea for win-ter days. My senses still keepits fragrance and its taste – oneof the reasons why I do not takelinden tea. Linden tea on offertoday has nothing to do withlinden! I, surely, know!The nextstage was Marindvor, the tramstation on my way to school.For eight years I commuted orwalked along Miljacka River toThe First Gymnasium (school).The school introduced me toschool trips and various sec-tions (history, geography, etc)also linked to travel. Then, therewas probably the most enjoy-able part of our youth: summervacation “in a colony”. I wouldnot go into details here, be-cause in spite of minor differ-ences in our age, we are all thesame generation, so that thesesummer vacations with theschool will be remember bymost readers with longing andmelancholy. And finally thescouts, student vacation asso-ciation and sport contributed alot to my travels. My first job,even, meant daily travels. As arepresentative of a pharmaceu-tical company touring the “par-ish” I came to know in detailBosnia and Herzegovina,Montenegro and Dalmatia. Idrove all the roads.My first “real foreign country”was actually a travel to Londonin 1961 and the first travel overthe ocean to Rio de Janeiro in1977. Thus the little boy explor

Dr SVETISLAV GACINOVICabout one facet of his personality

India - Taj Mahal

Bwindi jungle Uganda - Equator

ing his garden in the very primeof his youth gradually devel-oped into a curious traveller toreach his peak, not in the primeof his youth, travelling the

globe. Considering everythingit seems to me that I used com-pletely the lost time and that Ihave nothing to make up for.Q. You have visited many inter-esting places. You have prob-ably experienced each of themin a different way. What thenare these places and is it possi-ble for you to single out someof them that made a bigger im-pression on you than the oth-ers?A.It is true that I visited manyinteresting places and there aremany more that I did not visitbut would have liked to. Wouldit be necessary to single out acountry it would be India with-out any hesitation. The unbe-lievable India. An unbelievablecountry or subcontinent as re-ferred to sometimes. Not be-cause it is too hot, dusty, dirty,overpopulated, stinking – theprevailing stereotype – but be-cause India is the oldest and theonly civilization running con-tinuously for tens of thousands

of years.The chronological data indicatethat India is older than 34,000years for which period the first

signs of humanexistence wered i s c o ve r e d .This unbeliev-able uninter-rupted Indiancivilization runsfrom Stone Age,through BronzeAge and IndusValley Civiliza-tion, thenthrough VedicEra and IronAge and An-

cient India to present day In-dia. Anything told about Indiais much bigger, older, diverseand intriguing than anywhereelse in the world. It is probablythe only country in the worldthat I would like to visit count-less times.Marco Polo considered it to bethe richest and mostsplendid province of theworld Mark Twain consid-ered it to be the cradle ofhuman race, the birthplaceof human speech, themother o f history, thegrandmother of legendand the great grand-mother of tradition. Hethought that the mostvaluable materials in thehistory of man are treas-ured up in India only.Q. I assume that you col-lect information beforesetting foot to a new ad-venture. How the actualtravel stimulates you tolearn more about theplaces you had visited?

A.It seems to me that I workmore after the travel than I dobefore!? Naturally, before goingaway I read the available guideand travel books. In this mod-ern era of ours Internet cannotbe avoided. But only whencoming back realizing how littleyou know about the country orthe regions you have visited,the real research starts the pur-pose of which is to place eve-rything where it belongs and tofill in the holes in your lack ofknowledge. Along this researchsorting out of photographshelps to form an overall pictureof the places I visit.Q. Are your experiences pro-longed when you share themwith others?A.You share your experiences -actually you exchange themwith others who had also vis-ited similar or the same places.In this way you complementyour views with the experiencesof other people who might have

experienced it in a different oreven the same way as you didit. On the other hand it is possi-ble to pass on my experiencesto those who did not have thechance to travel to the far offplaces that I had visited owingto circumstances. The chanceto talk about some of my trav-els to the members of our Clubmeant a great pleasure for me.It would mean even more if Isucceeded to bring closer tothem at least a little part of mytravels to the places “that thefoot of regular tourists neverreaches”, but especially if theyenjoyed it and felt as if they had

been there. By trav-elling we enrich our-selves, coming backthose around us.Q. What new travels do youplan?A.A visit to Persia (mainlypresent Iran) was planned forNovember 2010. Due to restric-tions (of all kinds) by thepresent Iranian authorities it isnot likely that this visit will takeplace. Australia, Tasmania andNew Zealand is the alternativefor spring of 2011, but even thisis not certain. Since I retired thefinancial situation has drasti-cally changed..Q. Where would you like to gobut you are afraid that this wishwill not come true?A.Mont Everest.Q. How would you like to endthis interview?P.Good morning, my new friend.Do you know that travels makepeople happy? I like travelling

because work, without travels,makes life boring. Travels arepleasant and very often they areamusing. There are no limits intravels. Travels bring surprises.Part of the charm is the unex-pected! Travels mean revealingwhat is behind the mask! I readsomewhere that only by travel-ling we can reach theunreachable! The world is simi-lar to a book; those who do nottravel read only one page!Life is a travel; if you travel youhave two lives.

Interviewer: Branka danon

South Africa - Makalali

For change - LONDON, UK

Argentina - Perito Moreno

[ta vas motiv i{e i kakodonosite odluke da posjetiteneko mjesto? Prvo provjeriteimate li sredstava, pa ondako liko imate vremena naraspolaganju, pa udaljenost, pa{ta znate o odredi{tu i da liho}ete da doznate jo{, pa jesteli skloni avanturizmu ili tra`itemir i relaksaciju. Zavisi i odiskustva, predznanja pa i odva{ih godina a ponekad islu~ajnosti. I kada se svi ovifaktori me|usobno ispreple}ui slo`e i onda u p rocesuodlu~ivanja slu~ajno otkrijeteda su tamo ostavili tragaro|enjem ili prisustvom RobertAdam, Graham Bel, KonanDojl, Adam Ferguson, VolterSkot i drugi, odlu~ite da vasapsolutno zanima {ta je tevelikane vezalo za taj grad,Edinburg.

Biste li kada u Edinburgu? Posuncu?....

Ove dvije pretpostavke suri jetko kada podudarne.Rijetko je podudaran Pesah iUskrs. A da se dese Pesah i Uskrsi Vaskrs, istovremeno uEdinburgu i po suncu?! E,ne}emo pretjerivati. Od ne~egase mora odustati. Mi smoposjetili Edinburg na Pesah/Uskrs/Vaskrs, 2-5. aprila iodustali od sunca, mada ne ba{sasvim jer je i ono po nekada`mirkalo. Mo`da tanevjerovatna koincidencijaima neke veze; jedan velikivo|a i prorok je u to i takvovrijeme rasklopio duboke vodemora (Crvenog?) da izvede svojnarod iz ropstva, jedan je sinbo`ji u to i takvo vrijeme, alidosta kasnije, ustao iz mrtvihda osvjetli `ivotne putevesvojih vjernika, ~uda dakle, pa{to onda ne bi bilo i malo suncau Edinburgu, u to i takvovrijeme.

Putovati vozom iz Londona jedobro. Nije ba{ Orijent ekspres,ali je brzo - ~etiri sata vo`nje –a i ne klopara kao onaj na putuSarajevo – [amac. Ako stepomislili da je vo`nja vozompogodna za u`ivanje u prirodikoju susre}ete, morate bitispremni da fokusirate pogledna udaljenosti od preko 500 m',jer ovaj, mislim voz, tutnjabrzinom od preko 100 km/h.Ko u toj brzini razazna ovcu

od mosta ima u glavi umjestoo~iju fotoaparat koji okida u1000-tom dijelu sekunde. Nokada se ~ovjek privikne dagleda na daljinu, na|e se u[umadij i, p ravac, recimo,Topola – SmederevskaPalanka. Blaga brda i zabr|a,prevoji i uvalice. No postojibi tna razl ika. U ovoj UK[umadiji, me|u {umicama i{umarcima pukli su pa{njaci ioranice, ponikla ozimap{enica, kukuruzi{ta, a utrokutu izme|u tra~nica koje sera~vaju – gra{ak. Potok ~ist k'osuza, samo {to ne iska~upastrmke. A u [umadiji 'proper',izme|u onih {umica i{umaraka, pro rasla trava ikorov, jedva se krave vide,ponegd je n ikao kukuruz,gra{ak je u oku}nicama a uztra~nice masla~ak. Da je vodau potoku bistra, ne vidi se izvoza od najlon kesa koje su seoka~ile o vrbove grane i {epurese tako umjesto pupoljaka, a uvrtlozima plutaju plasti~neboce (ako na|u mjesta odistro{enih traktorskih guma).Ostaje tajna da li ima pastrmki.Ali….ja onu [umadiju 'proper'volim a na ovu UK se tek i jo{uvijek navikavam. Ljubav je~udna stvar.

Kad pro|ete Jork i Njukasl,scenografija se dramati~nomijenja. Sve nekako postajeo{t rije, rustikalni je. Nemagrani~ne rampe i ja ne znamkada je voz u{ao u {kotske'Borders' ili kako bi mivjerovatno rekli, Krajinu. Ali seu me|uvremenu odnekud, sadesne strane, ponegdje skoropotplakuju}i tra~nice, pojavilona{u{ureno sivo Sjeverno more.Tamo preko, na istoku, bi}eDanska.

U ina~e natmurenom danu, dase pribli`avamo odredi{tu –Edinburgu – zaklju~ili smo potome {to su se na sjeverozapaduukazale planine Hajlendsa,pokrivene jo{ uvijek te{kimsnijegom napadalim iznenadaprethodne sedmice nakonneobi~no duge zime. A izajedne od stijena kao da virihaj lander Mel Gibson uratni~kim bojama i sjekirom uruci. Sa desna se Sjeverno morepostepeno pirkupl jalo uprocjep utoka rijeke Fort u

zaliv, Firt of Fort. Zaliv bogatistorijom vezanom za {kotskui britansku pomorsku tradiciju.Tu, u taj zaliv na ju`noj straniugnijezdio se Edinburg.

Uobi~ajena reakcija putnikakoji se prvi put susre}e sa ovimgradom je dvojaka: ili je upitanju ljubav na prvi pogledili razo~arenje. Moj slu~aj jeovaj prvi, ipak sa zadr{kom. Azadr{ka, zbog toga {to jekamenom oblo`eni Stari diograda pocrnio godinama. Nokada prihvatite da je to dioimid`a, kao sto je psovkanerazdvojni dio Ziketovog'Glumac je glumac, je.....' i dane bi valjalo druk~ije, otvorese vrata jednog prelijepoggrada. Postoji tajpreovladavaju}i dojam neke

neobi~ne velikodu{nost i,{irokih avenija i ne prevelikihzgrada. Uvijek su mi mjestarazbr~kana po bre`uljcima biladra`a od ravni~arskih, nekakosu razlivena i sve je na vidiku.Mo`da zato {to mi je u genimapopeti se na Bijelu Tabiju iliBabi}a Ba{tu, pa pogledati nizMiljacku.

Zatim, Edinburg je jedno odon ih mjesta u koj ima jeorijentacija lagana. Jasna je

razdjelna lini jaizmedju istorijskogjezgra i novog dijelagrada. Ne znam jeste liprimijetili kako prosje~niturista uvijek hita ka starinama,bez obzira da li je nastavnikistorije u {koli uspio da muulije ljubav prema pro{losti.Ima tu neke mistike; u ~estomnedostatku 'tvrdih' ~injenica,stvarnost se mije{a sa ma{tom,pa za{to onda ne uk lju~itisvoju. Te{ko je rasplamsatima{tu na sudaru drveta, betonai stakla ko ji su podignutiunazad 20-30 godina. Ali kadodete gore na plato na kome jepodignuta utvrda koja jeutkana u bremenitu istoriju nesamo Edinburga i [kotske negoi sada{nje Velike Britanije, pai Evrope, tamo vam sko~i

pritisak a puls se ubrza. U onimvla`nim, sku~enim podzemnimprolazima od potamnjelogkamena u kojima se moratedobro pogeti da pro|ete do}elija u kojima je nekozagrebao na zidu posljednjuporuku prije smaknu}a, tamose naje`ite od uzbu|enja. Ujednom malom salonu na~ardaku, zavjerenici su izbolino`em Italijana Davida

PUTOVANJE U EDINBURG

THE EDINBURGH CASTLE

Rizzia, 'povjerenika' {kotskekraljice Ane, na njene o~i. Nazidinama su poredani topoviizliveni u Italiji, koji bi dakontroli{u prilaz utvr|enju saFirth of Fort-a.

U takvoj sam ivotnoj dobi dami je te{ko zadr`at i masuinformacija koja se nudi priovakvim posjetama. Davnosam digao ruke od toga dapratim i poredam vremenski iuzro~no sve one Ri~arde,D`onove, Vilijame, Henrije,Bekete i Kromvele, Viktorije,Ane, Meri i Elizabete. U tojmasi imena te{ko da }e mi udu`oj uspomeni ostati D`ejmsI i VI ili II i VII, {kotski kraljevi

koji su objedinili krunu. VI iVII zato jer su to po redu u[kotskoj a I i II jer prije toganije bi lo D`ejmsova saengleskom krunom na glavi.Manta mi se.

Svaki put poslije ovakvihposjeta, moram preispitatisvoje motive za ovoliki interes.Jer svakom ovakvom posjetommnogo si bli`i neprekidnojborbi za vlast, spletkama,ubistvima, zavisti, brutalnosti,lukavosti, izdaji , zavjeri,pohlepi.....Ka`u da je svijettvorevina neprekidne borbedobra i zla, gdje je tu dobro?Da li se u mene po~elagnijezditi ona crta morbidnostikoja mi je oduzela dah primojim prvim bli`im susretimasa budu}om midomovinom?.....Za mojuunutra{nju ravnote`u moram sebrzo ratosiljati ovakvih misli.I zato se okre}em onoj drugojstrani Edinburga, onom

What is driving you and whatis your decision making proc-ess when you are to visit aplace? First you check whetheryou have the necessary means,then how much time you haveon your disposal, then the dis-tance, then what do you knowabout your destination andwould you want to learn more,then is your drive adventure orpeace and relaxation. Your de-cision also depends on experi-ence, previous knowledge, andyour age and sometimes also onchance. When all these factorsintertwine and settle and thenin the decision process you dis-cover that the likes of RobertAdams, Graham Bell, ConanDoyle, Adam Ferguson, WalterScott and others were eitherborn there or left their trace whilestaying there, you decide thatyou are much interested to findout what attracted these greatpeople to this place – Edin-burgh.Have you ever been to Edin-burgh? While there, was thesun shining?These two assumptions coin-cide very seldom. It is also sel-dom to have Pesach and Easterat the same time. It is even moreso to have Pesach, Easter andOrthodox Easter in Edinburghat the same time ...while the sunis shining?! Let's not get car-ried away. You have to give upon something. We visited Ed-inburgh on Pesach/Easter/Or-thodox Easter from 2nd to 5thApril 2010 and gave up on sun-shine, although not entirely asit did peep through occasion-ally. Perhaps this unbelievablecoincidence had some groundsin history; one colossal leaderand prophet had split the deepsea waters (was it the Red Sea?)to lead his people from slaveryat a time similar to this. Centu-ries later one son of God rosefrom the dead to light up thelives of his followers at a timesimilar to this - miracles, aren'tthey; why then should one notexpect a little sunshine at a timesimilar to this?It is good to travel from Lon-don. Not exactly an Orient Ex-press trip, but it is fast – somefour hours’ journey – and evenmore the train does not shud-der like the one on route from

Sarajevo to [amac. Ifyour idea was that travelling bytrain meant that you might en-joy nature on your way, youhave to make sure to focus yourvision to a distance of some 500m' away from the tracks, be-cause this one, I mean the train,blasts in speeds in excess of 65miles/hour. Whoever in thatspeed can distinguish betweena sheep and a bridge has a fastspeed camera built in his headinstead of eyes. But as soon asone gets adjusted to the circum-stances, one finds himself in[umadija on track between, say,Topola and SmederevskaPalanka. Mild hills and slopes,bends and valleys. But there isan essential difference. In be-tween the forests and sets oftrees in this UK [umadija pas-tures and cultivated landspread, winter wheat startsshowing, corn fields appear andin the triangle formed betweenrailroad tracks – peas grow. Thestream is as clear as a tear; youcan almost see the trout jump-ing after flies. But in the[umadija proper, in betweenthose forests and sets of treesgrass and weed overtake thescenery, one can hardly noticethe cows, maize is popping hereand there, peas grow onlyaround farm houses and dan-delions cover the fields. If youtravel by train, you are not surewhether the water is clear, be-cause your sight is blocked byplastic bags dangling all overthe willow branches overhang-ing the water and in the whirl-pools plastic bottles floating(and that only if they can findspace amongst the discardedworn out tractor wheels). It re-mains a mystery whether thereare any trout. But.... I happento love that [umadija Properand I am still trying to get usedto the UK one. Love is a strangething.When you go past York andNewcastle the scenery changesdramatically. Everything be-comes 'sharper', more rustic.There is no border sentinel andI do not know when the trainentered the Scottish Borders. Inthe meantime from somewhereon the right-hand side, occa-sionally sneaking almost underthe tracks the North Sea pops

lijepom, vedrom, prostranomgradu sa puno avenija ali iin timnih sokaka, sana~i~kanim restoran~i}ima alii rasko{nim galerijama,Holyrood Palatom al i imodernom zgradom novogParlamenta. Unato~ ~injenicida je grad nevelik – manje od500.000 stanovnka – {to ga~in i drugim po veli~ini u[kotskoj – ne mo`e da sakrijete`nju za grandiozno{}u.Utvrda, kraljevska palata, noviparlament, nacionalna galerijai mnoge druge ponosne zgrade,teatarski fest ivali koji supro{irili slavu Edinburga usvijetu 'dasaka {to ivot zna~e',sv jedo~e o takmi~enju sa

L o n d o n o m .Nije moje daprocjenjujemkol iko jen a m j e r aosnovana, alije o~igledna.

I jednaneo~ek ivanaopservacija. Up o j e d i n i md i j e l o v i m aE d i n b u r g aza~u|uju}e jep r i s u s t v oi t a l i j a n s k ek u l t u r e ,u g l a v n o mk u l i n a r s k e .M n o { t v orestorana i

delikatesnih prodavnica i tokvalitetnih, sa specifi~nomitalijanskom ponudom. Otkud,otkad i za{to? Ka`u da je velikibroj Italijana 1890-tih godinanapu{tao Italiju bje`e}i odbijede. Mnogima je u mislimai na srcima bila zemlja velikihmogu}nosti – Amerika. Nomnogima se put zavr{avao ovdeu [kotskoj bilo da im je bilodosta putovanja ili nisu imalivi{e sredstava za dalji put ilisu pak otkrili zajedni~kuljubav – krompiri}e i ribu. Ijednog i drugog, svje`eg, jebilo u izobilju i trebalo ga jesamo pripremiti, na italijanskina~in. Tako je ka`u, po~elo.

Zbog kratko}e vremena, u luku,za koju ka`u da je prelijepa,nismo stigli ni da zavirimo. Imatoliko mjesta koje bi jo{ daposjetimo, ali je sigurno da}emo u Edinburg ponovo,prvom prilikom koja se uka`e.

Branko Danon

A TRIP TO EDINBURGH

THE EDINGURGH CASTLE

up. Over there to the East isDenmark.On that otherwise murky day werecognized that we were ap-proaching our destination, Ed-inburgh, by the sight of theHighland Mountains on theNorth-West horizon; still underheavy snow from last week fol-lowing an unusually long win-ter. Behind one of the rocks onecould almost spot Mel Gibsonthe Highlander, all painted inwarrior paints and an axe in hishand. From the right, the NorthSea was sucked into the estu-ary of the river Fort, the Firth of

Fort bay. A bay richly linked toScottish and British maritimehistory. Into that bay, on itssouth bank Edinburgh hasnested.A traveller who meets Edin-burgh for the first time usuallyreacts in one of the two ways.He either falls in love at firstsight or is disappointed. Mycase was the first one, withsome reluctance. And the reluc-tance was due to the fact thatthe stone cladding of the OldCity has acquired a dark shade,black almost. But the moment Iaccepted that this is part of theimage, as foul language is partof Zike's show 'An actor is anactor is an actor...' and that itwould not be anything else but,the door of a beautiful cityopened up widely. There wasthat overwhelming feeling of anunusual generosity, wide av-enues and buildings, not toobig. I have always preferredplaces spread out over hills tothe flat laid ones; they are justflowing and everything is in

sight. This is perhaps becauseit is in my genes to climb upBijela Tabija and Babi}a Ba{taand cast my eyes downMiljacka River. Edinburgh isone of those places where ori-entation is easy. There is a cleardivision line between the his-toric nucleus and the new partof the town. I wander if younoticed that an ordinary touristis always attracted to historicsites. It has nothing to do withthe fact whether his historyteacher succeeded to implantsome love for antiquities intohis consciousness. There is

some mystique there. For lackof hard evidence, the reality in-termingles with fiction, so whynot include your own. It is diffi-cult to arouse one's imaginationon the collision of wood con-crete and glass put together inthe last 20-30 years. But whenone climbs up there, to the hilltop accommodating the castlewhich is an inseparable part ofthe eventful history not only ofEdinburgh and Scotland butalso of Great Britain and Europe,blood pressure pops up andpulse accelerates. In thosedump and narrow undergroundpassages of darkened stone,one has to bend properly to beable to reach the cells whereinsomeone had carved his lastmessage before the morning ofhis death - all this makes oneshudder. In a tiny Saloon on topof the Citadel, conspiratorsknifed the Italian David Rizzi, thepro tégé of Scot tish QueenAnne, in front of her eyes. Can-nons cast in Italy were lined upon the fortress walls to controlthe approach to the castle from

the direction of Firth of Fort.I am in a stage of my life when itis becoming more difficult tohold all the information offeredat such occasions. Long ago Igave up catching on and sort-ing out in time and causally allthose Richards, Johns,Williams, Henries, Becketts andCromwells, Victorias, Anns,Marries and Elisabeths. In thatmultitude of names it is notlikely that the names of James Iand VI or II and VII, who unitedthe thrones, will remain in mylasting memory; VI and VII be-cause it was their lineage inScotland and I and II becausethere were no Jameses on theThrone of England before. Mymind is boggling.After each of these visits, Ihave to re-examine my motifsfor such a huge interest. Be-cause they always bring youcloser to unrepentant battlesfor rule, intrigues, murders,envy, brutality, cunningness,treason, plots, greed...They saythe world is the result of con-stant battle between good andevil - where is good here? Couldit be that a note of morbiditystarted nestling within me; thesame morbidity that startled meso much on my first close en-counter with my future home-land? For the sake of my innerbalance I have to get rid of suchthoughts quickly. That is whenI turn to the other side of Edin-burgh, that beautiful, bright,placid town with lots of av-enues but small intimate alleysas well, with clustered tiny res-taurants but with generous gal-

leries, with the Holyrood Palacebut with the attractive new Par-liament Building. In spite of thefact that it is not huge – less

than 500.000 inhabit-ants, putt ing it insecond place in Scot-land – the town cannot concealits tendency for grandeur. TheCastle, The Holyrood Palace,the New Parliament, The Na-tional Gallery and many otherproud buildings; Theatre Fes-tivals which spread the Gloryof Edinburgh in the world, allthese witness to the wish tocompete with London. It is notup to me to judge the justifica-tion of such a tendency, but thattendency is too obvious.A final but somewhat unex-pected observation. In parts ofEdinburgh you will meet a sur-prising presence of Italian cul-ture, culinary namely. There arelots of restaurants and delica-tessen, good ones at that, witha specific Ital ian offer.Wherefrom, since when andwhy? They say that back in the1890-ies many Italians left Italyfleeing from hunger and misery.Many of them dreamed of theLand of Opportunity – America,but many ended their journeyhere in Scotland for various rea-sons; they either had enoughof travelling or their means havedrained up, or they discoveredtheir mutual love with the na-tives – the love of fish andchips. Both were to be foundfresh and in abundance and allthat was needed was cooking it– the Italian way. That is, theysay, how it started.For lack of time, we did not paya visit to the harbour, of whichthey say, that it is exciting. Thereis so much more to see, prompt-

ing us to promise ourselves arepeated visit at the first oppor-tunity.

Branko Danon

THE NATIONAL GALLERY

THE SCOTTISH PARLIAMENT

Da li znate {ta podrazumjevaovaj naslov? Podrazumjeva diomoje domovine koja vi{e nepostoji – Jugoslavi je, alidodatno i Albaniju. Hrvatska iSlovenija nisu uklju~ene/ „TheTraveler & UASID“, specijalnidodatak uz ~asopis NationalGeographic koji je iza{aopo~etkom ove godine pozivaturiste u Albaniju, Bosnu iHercegovinu, Kosovo,Makedoniju , Crnu Goru iSrbiju, regione koji su nekadabili jedna jedinstvena lijepazemlja kako je ostala usje}anju mnogih koji su u njoj`ivjeli ili imali priliku da jeposjete. U pregledu ovogdodatka ne}e biti govora oAlbaniji koja, mada je veomainteresantna, nije bila dio biv{eJugoslavije. Prelistavaju}i ovajprilog nai}i }ete na tekstove oljetnim danima u Crnoj Gorikoji spominju ljetovali{ta naJadranu kao {to je Budva injenih 17 pla`a i stari gradKotor okru`en planinama kojeformiraju zapanjuju}i zalivkoji se ~esto spominje kaoevropski najju`niji fjord. Me|ujezerima koja se ovde navodenalazi se prostrano Skadarskojezero, dio nacionalnog parkakoje se dijelom nalazi u CrnojGori. Ono privla~i ljude kojivo le ~amce, one ko jiposmatraju ptice iz hobija,ribare i druge. Drugo jezero jeOhrid i grad Ohrid uMakedoniji koji su progla{enimjestima Svjetskog naslje|a.Na ovom prostoru koje jenaseljeno od doba neolita sadapostoji vi{e od 200 crkava,svetih mjesta i muzeja. Dunavse razlikuje u Srbiji od Dunavau Austriji. Ni{ta se ne mo`eporedit i sa Gvozdenomkapijom (Djerdapska Klisura),potezom dug im 83 miljeizme|u Rumunije i Srbije. Tosu uske klisure i visoke planinesa ostacima utvr|enja i rimskihmostova. Kada govori onacionalnim parkovimaDodatak National Geographic-a ka`e: U {est zemalja o kojimaje ovdje ri je~ postoji 32nacionalna parka, pa bilo datra`i te posljedne preostalepra{ume na ovom kontinentu,staze za vo`nju planinskimbiciklima kroz kre~nja~ki karstili hodanje u rajski nedirnutoj

prirodi ne}ete biti razo~arani.UNacionalnom parku Sutjeska uBosni i Hercegovini prastaribo rovi i bukve nadvisu junedirnute rijeke u jednoj odposljednjih starih {uma ovogkontinenta. Nacionalni park[are u Kosovu je udaljen – toje jedno od malog broja mjestau Evropi u kome ljubiteljiprirode mogu jo{ stvarno davide medvjeda ili vuka.Nacionalni park BiogradskaGora u Crnoj Gori je magnet zaalpiniste koji neodoljivo `eleda isku{aju svoje vje{tine nauspravnim stjenama Bjelasice.U Nacionalnom parkuMavrovo u Makedoni jibicikl isti na plan insk imbicikl ima mogu da izvodesvoje vratolomije. Nacionalnipark Fru{ke gore mamiposjetioce svoj impravoslavnim manastirima.Protumarajte po brdima pa }etepomisliti da ste se na{li upradavnim vjekovima. Zaskija{e Dinarske Alpe – dugilanac snjegom pokriven ihplanina ko ji se prosti reisto~nom ivicom Balkanskogpoluostrva – a sem toga lanacDurmitora (Crna Gora) iKopaonik (Srbija) postaju svepopularniji. Godine 1984,mnogo prije izbijanja ratasportisti cijelog svijeta su seskupili da se natje~u na XIVZimskim Olimpjskim Igrama uSarajevu. Pa i danas ljubiteljisnijega rado idu na Bjela{nicuu Bosn i Hercegovin i.Zahval juju}i klimatsk imuslovima – planina se nalaziizme|u sredozemnih ikontinentalnih vazdu{n ihsistema – padine skoro uvijekimaju novi pr{i~ u perioduizme|u novembra i aprila.

Sekcije o hrani opisuju raznajela koja su sva pripremljenaod svje`ih lokalnih proizvoda.Spominju se i dobra vina irakije.

Ova podru~ja imaju i bogatuistoriju, duhovni ivot, mitove,legende, umjetnost i muziku.Tako, tragovi koje su ostavililjudi idu u pra-istoriju. Gradskimuzej u Skoplju ima u svojojstalnoj izlo`bi najstar ijuiskopinu ove zemlje.Malaskulptura Adama je stara oko6.000 godina. Ovde u

Makedoniji tako|er je prijeosam godina iskopana zlatnamaska iz jedne nekropole kojapoma`e da se sazna vi{e o tomekako su stare kne`evinesahranj ivale svoje ratnike.Maska je iz petog vijeka prijena{e ere i jedna od pet na|enihna podru~ju Ohrida. Rimskitragovi se nalaze svuda po„Zemljama zapadnogBalkana“. Felix Romuliana uSrbiji je jedno od najboljesa~uvanih rimskih naselja naZemlji. Sagra|ena u tre}emvijeku palata na ovom mjestuo b u h v a t as l o ` e n ik o m p l e k skupatila kojap r e t h o d em o d e r n o js a u n i ,im pr es iv nemozaike iskulpture. Toje sadal o k a l i t e tUNESCO-vogS v j e t s k o gn a s l j e | a .P r es k a ~u } iv i j e k o v esti`emo don a d g o b n i hspomenika iz 15 i 16 vijeka –do ste}aka – u Radimlji u Bosnii Hercegov ini .Ovo mirnomjesto je stjeci{te ljudirazli~itih vjerovanja idu{tvenih klasa. Prizren naKosou privla~i otomanskomba{tinom kao ni jedan drugigrad na Balkanskompoluostrvu. Turci su napustiliovo podru~je prije otprilikejednog vijeka ali na ulicamadu` rijeke njihova kultura idalje `ivi. Jo{ dublje u istorijiu srpskom naselju iza d`amijenalaze se ostaci crkve SvetogSpasa iz 14 . vi jeka isrednjovjekovno otomanskoutvr|enje Kalaja. Pravoslavnacrkva Svete Bogorod iceLjevi{ke koja je sagra|ena od12 do 14 vijeka prepuna jefresaka ko je su sve remekdijela, uvr{tena je u mjesta kojasu progla{ena Svjetskomba{tinom. U Sarajevu u Bosni iHercegovini , GaziHusrevbegova D`amija jejedna od najboljih primjeraotomanske arhitekture iz 16vijeka u tom regionu. Taj sekompleks nekada prostiraopreko cijelog gradskog bloka iobuhvatao je d`amiju, {kolu,

cen tar zau b o g e ,b i b l io te ku ,kr~mu, javno kupatilo igrobove – najpoznatiji me|unjima je upravo Gazi HusrevBegov. Mra~na unutra{njostManasti ra Gra~anica naKosovu je svjedok epskeprirode ovog mjesta. Od kakoje zavr{en 1321 godine stalnoje bivao paljen ratovima.Potpuno druga~iji, manastirDe~ani koji je udaljen oko 5kilometara od Pri{tine jedan jeod najve}ih srednjevjekovnih

pravoslavnih mjesta zabogoslu`nje na ovom regionu.Sagra|en je otprilike u istovri jeme kada i Gra~anica.Visok i zidovi crkve sijajufreskama iz ~etrnaestog vjeka– remek djelima kasnogbizantijskog stila. Najve}esveti{te u Crnoj Gori, ManastirOstrog uklesan je u liticuplanine u 17 vijeku.Ovaj dodatak spomin jeposebno dva mjesta u Bosni iHercegovini. Jedno je Mostarsa svoj im poznatimsimboli~nim mostom smje{tenu jednoj od najljep{ih dolinaBalkanskog poluostrva. Drugomjesto je Jajce „rasipneljepote“sa svojim vodpadimai sredn jevjekovnimkatakombama.Na ovim podru~jima visokomjesto zauzimaju i muzika izabava.SaLon je gore ukratko iznjeoske~ ovog regiona onako kakoga je ponudio National Geo-graphic Magazine. Bilo bimnogo lak{e izraditi ovaj ske~i cijela slika bi bila mnogojasnija i ljep{a da region nijetoliko izfragmentisan.Pripremila Branka Danon

ZEMLJE ZAPADNOG BALKANA(odlomci preuzeti iz National Geographic)

Do you know what this termimplies? It implies part of myformer homeland that does notexist any more – Yugoslavia,but also Albania. Croatia andSlovenia are not included. TheTraveler & UASID Special Sup-plement to National GeographicMagazine earlier this year in-vites tourists to Albania, Bosniaand Herzegovina, KosovoMacedonia, Montenegro andSerbia, regions that once usedto be one beautiful country asremembered by many who hadlived there and had the chanceto visit it. This review of thesupplement will exclude the ref-

erences to Albania, which al-though very interesting did notform part of former Yugoslavia.When leafing through you findwritings about summer days inMontenegro mentioning Adri-atic resorts such as culturallyrich Budva with its 17 beachesand the old town of Kotor sur-rounded by mountains creatinga stunning bay often referredto as Europe’s southernmostfjord. The lakes mentioned hereinclude the vast Skadar Lake, apart of a national park partlylocated in Montenegro. It drawsboaters, birders, fishermen. Theother one is the World Heritagesite of Ohrid Lake and town inMacedonia. Inhabited sinceNeolithic times, this area hasmore than 200 churches, holysites, and museums. Danubediffers in Serbia from Danubein Austria. Nothing compares tothe Iron Gate, the 83-milestretch between Romania andSerbia. These are narrow gorgesand tall mountains, along withthe remains of castles and Ro-man bridges. When mentioningthe National parks National

Geographic Supplement says:There are 32 national parks inthe six countries featured here,so whether you’re looking for apocket of some of the conti-nent’s last primeval forest,mountain-biking trails throughlimestone karst, or a hike in acountryside paradise still teem-ing with wildlife, you won’t bedisappointed. In Bosnia andHerzegovina’s Sutjeska Na-tional Park, ancient stands ofblack pine and beech tower highabove unspoiled rivers in oneof the continent’s last ancientforests. Sara Mountain Na-tional Park in Kososvo is remote

– one of theonly places inEurope wherewildlife loversmight actuallysee a bear or aw o l f .B i o g r a d s k aGora NationalPark inMontenegro is amagnet formountaineerseager to testtheir skills on

the sheer rock faces of MountBjelasica. At Mavrovo NationalPark in Macedonia, mountainbikers can take challengingspins. Fruska Gora NationalPark in Serbia beckons visitorsto its Orthodox monasteries.Wander the hills, and you’llthink you’re in a century long,long gone. For skiers, theDinaric Alps – the long ridge ofsnow capped mountains thatruns down the eastern edge ofthe Balkans Peninsula – andfarther inland, the mountains ofthe Durmito r range(Montenegro) and Kopaonik(Serbia) are gaining in popular-ity. In 1984, long before warbroke out, athletes gatheredfrom around the globe to com-pete in the XIV Winter Olym-pics in Sarajevo. Today, MountBjelasnica, in Bosnia andHerzegovina, is still a snow lov-er’s choice. Due to a happy cli-matic coincidence – the moun-tain sits between Mediterraneanand Continental air systems –the slopes almost always havefresh powder between Novem-ber and April.

The food sections describes thevarious dishes all based onfresh local produce and alsotalk about the good wines andbrandiesThese regions are also rich inhistory, spirituality, myths, leg-ends, arts and music. Thus,traces left by humans date backto prehistoric times. The Mu-seum of the City of Skopjekeeps in its permanent exhibi-tion the country’s oldest arte-fact ever excavated. The smallsculpture of Adam goes backsome 6,000 years. Here in Mac-edonia also a golden mask wasunearthed eight years ago froman old burial site shedding lighton how ancient princedomsburied their warriors. The maskis from the fifth century B.C. andis the fifth of its kind found inthe Ohrid area. Roman tracesare all over “The Western Bal-kans”. In Serbia FelixRomuliana is one of the bestpreserved Roman settlementson Earth. Built in the third cen-tury the site’s palace includes asophisticated bath complex thatfeatured a precursor to the mod-ern sauna, impressive mosaicsand sculptures. It is now aUNESCO WorldHeritage si te.Skipping ageswe arrive to the15th and 16 thcentury head-stones – thestecci – at thegraveyard ofRadimlja inBosnia andH er z egov i na .This peacefulplace brings together peoplesof various beliefs and socialclasses. Prizren conjures theOtoman legacies like no othercity on the Balkan Peninsula.The Turks left this region abouta centu ry ago, but on thestreets along the LumbardhRiver, their culture lives on. TheSinan Pasha Mosque loomsover a 15th century stonebridge. Further still in the pastin the Serbian neighbourhoodbehind the Mosque are the re-mains of the 14th century St.Saviour Church and the medi-eval Ottoman Kalaja Fortress.The Orthodox CathedralChurch of the Holy Virgin ofLeviska, brimming with frescomasterpieces, is a World Herit-

age site built inthe 12th to 14thcenturies. InSarajevo, Bosnia andHerzegovina, the Gazi HusrevBeg Mosque is one of the bestexamples of the 16th centuryOttoman architecture in the re-gion. The complex oncesprawled over a city block andincluded a mosque, school,soup kitchen, hospice, library,inn, public bath, and tombs –notably Gazi Husrev Begs’s.The dark interior of GracanicaMonastery in Kosovo wit-nesses the epic nature of theplace. Since its completion in1321 it has been repeatedlyscorched by war. With a differ-ent feel, Decani Monastery,about five kilometres fromPristina, is one of the largestmedieval Orthodox places ofworship in the region. It wasbuilt about the same time asGracanica. The high cathedralwalls gleam with 14th centuryfrescos – masterpieces of thelate Byzantine style. The holi-est shrine in Montenegro,Ostrog Monastery was carvedinto a sheer mountain cliff in the17th century

This travel supplement men-tions separately two places inBosnia and Herzegovina. Oneis Mostar with its famous sym-bolic bridge, nestled in one ofthe Balkan Peninsula’s mostscenic valleys. The other isJajce of “extravagant beauty”with its waterfalls and medievalcatacombs.Music arts and entertainmentalso feature highly here.The above is SaLon’s abbrevia-tion of the region’s sketch asoffered by National GeographicMagazine. It would have beenmuch easier to draw it and thewhole picture would be muchclearer and nicer if the regionwas not so fragmented.Prepared by Branko Danon

THE WESTERN BALKANS(taken from National Geographic)

IZDAVA^ <> PUBLISHER Jevrejska Zajednica “Prijatelji La Benevolencije” London <> Jewish Society “The Friends of La

Benevolencija” London ADRESA <> ADDRESS

Shalvata - Jewish Care, Att Mr Branko DanonParson Street - Corner of Church Road

London NW4 1QAEmail: salon@benevolencija.eu.org

REDAKCIJA <> EDITORIAL BOARDBranka Danon, Branko Danon, @elimir Ku~inovi}, Sveto Ga}inovi}, Vesna Domany-Hardy, Dragan Ungar

TEHNI^KI UREDNIK I KOMPJUTERSKA OBRADA <> DESIGN AND COMPUTER PROCESSING .

Dejan Stojni}Logo: Daniel Ovadia

SaLon je besplatan i izlazi tromjese~noMi{ljenja u SaLonu nisu nu`noi stajali{ta urednika ili izdava~a.

SaLon is free of charge and published quarterlyThe opinions expressed in SaLon are not

necessarely those of the editors or the publisher

<><><>

Rukopisi i slike se u pravilu ne vra}aju.® SaLon

RIJE^ ODBORA / EDITORIALUmjesto uvoda ........................................................1In place of Introduction ...........................................2

INTRVJU / INTERVIEW Intervju sa Svetom Ga}inovi}em........................3,4 Interview with Sveto Ga}inovi} .........................5,6

IMPRESIJE / IMPRESSIONS

Putovanje u Edinburg .........................................7,8 A Trip To Edinbourgh .........................................8,9

PRO^ITALI SMO ZA VAS/ WE READ FOR YOU

Zapadni Balkan . (iz National Geographic) ............................10West Balkans .

(From National Geographic) ...................... 11IZ LADINO LADICE

Izrazi i izreke ........................................................12

SADR@AJ / CONTENTSDa se ne bi otelo zaboravu evo pojmova i izreka koje sukolale mahalama unazad 70-tak godina.Pozivamo sve kojima je ne{to od toga ostalo u pam}enjuda nam se javi sa prilozima

Od jela:1. Aroz di le~i – Kuhana ri`a u slatkom mlijeku, sutlija{2. Frtulikjas – Pr`olice od pr`enog raskva{enog macesasa jajima u agdi3.Pivitas - pr`ene, soljene ko{pe od tikava4.Sungatu – razlijevak od mljevenog mesa i barene prase

Izreke:1. Kun salut – u zdravlje2. Vi`ez i ja ez – pusti matorog3. Vje`a kon su taraina – ko o ~emu baba o u{tipcima

Rije~i:1. in~a – Stjenica (ali idosadna osoba)2. Ermozura – ljepota3. Haraganu – lijen~ina4. Kavra – koza (ali i priglupa osoba)

Prilozi Cezar Danon

IZRAZI I IZREKE

Svim ~lanovima Kluba i njihovimporodicama kao i svi ~itaocimaSaLon-a elimo sretnu Novu godinu,punu dobra, zdravlja, mira,harmonije i ljubavi!

To all members of the Club and theirfamilies, and to all readers of SaLonwe wish A Happy New Year, full ofgood, health, peace, harmony andlove !

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