the carpathians Карпати - lonely...
TRANSCRIPT
Why Go?Clipping the country’s southwest corner, the Carpathian arc has endowed Ukraine with a crinkled region of forested hills and fast-flowing rivers that feel a continent away from the flatness of the steppe. This is the land of the Hutsuls, whose colourful folk culture is laced through thin villages stretching languidly along wide valley floors. It’s also rural Ukraine at its best, where tiered wooden churches dot hillsides, horse-drawn carts clip-clop along potholed roads, babushkas shoo geese, and marshrutka (fixed-route minibus) passengers cross themselves as they whizz past roadside chapels.
The ‘Hutsulshchyna’ may be Ukraine’s epicentre of rural folk culture, but this is also a leading holiday spot. The local peaks have been a long-term hit with Ukrainian hikers and skiers; the Carpathian National Nature Park, the country’s biggest, lies in this region; and within the park’s boundaries rises Mt Hoverla – Ukraine’s highest peak at 2061m. It’s also home to Bukovel, Ukraine’s glitziest ski resort.
pop 3.5 million
The Carpathians Карпати
When to Go
Jul Picnic on flower-filled polo-nyny (summer pastures) as you listen to the tinkle of cow bells.
Sep–Nov Watch local vintners bringing in the grape harvest in the Transcar-pathia region.
Dec Enjoy some hearty Hutsul après-ski during the Carpathian ski season.
0
8/200
12/300
4/100
F DNOSAJJMAMJ
Ivano-Frankivsk°C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm
0/32
-10/14
-20/-4
20/68
30/86
10/50
Best Places to Eat¨¨ Reflection (p139)
¨¨ manufactura (p125)
¨¨ Cafe-muzey pid Zamkom (p142)
¨¨ Beer Club 10 (p125)
Best Places to Stay¨¨ on the Corner (p131)
¨¨ Smerekova Hata (p135)
¨¨ Good morning B&B (p131)
¨¨ pid Templem (p125)
Ivano-Frankivsk . . . . . 124Carpathian National Nature Park & Around . . . . . . . . . . . 127Yaremche . . . . . . . . . .128Bukovel . . . . . . . . . . . .130Kolomyya . . . . . . . . . . 131Kosiv . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133Verkhovyna . . . . . . . .134Rakhiv . . . . . . . . . . . . .134Bukovyna . . . . . . . . . .136Chernivtsi . . . . . . . . . .136Transcarpathia . . . . . .140Uzhhorod . . . . . . . . . .140Mukacheve . . . . . . . . . 143
©Lonely¨Planet¨Publications¨Pty¨Ltd
The CarpaTh
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HUN
GAR
Y
SLOVA
KIA
MOLD
OVA
ROMAN
IA
POLA
ND
Carpathian
Nationa
lNatural
Park
Carpathian
Nationa
lNaturePa
rk
Stry
Zb
ruch
Zbruch
Dniester
Prut
MtP
etros
(202
0m)
MtP
ipIvan
Chorno
hirsky
(202
8m)
PipIvan
Marom
orosky
(193
7m)
She
shory
Verkh
ovyn
aKryvo
rivn
ya
Dilo
ve
Sighe
tuMarmaţiei
Teresva
Soltvyn
o
Cho
p
Nev
ytsk
e
Mizhh
irya
Svalya
va
Volov
ets
Sko
le Bolek
hiv
Dolyn
a
Halyc
h
Buc
hach
Hus
yatyn
Borsh
chiv
Nyrkiv
Buk
ovel
Stry
Brice
ni
Doroh
oi
Muk
ache
ve
Cho
rtkiv
Botoş
ani
Kalus
h
Khu
st
Bereh
ove
Yasiny
aVorok
hta
Tatariv
Kho
tyn
Kos
mac
h
Satu
Mare
Rak
hiv
Kam
yane
ts-
Podilsky
Siret
Carpathian
Biosph
ere
Reserve
Chy
nadiye
veCas
tle#1
#3
#4#6#5
#5
#7
#2
Kolom
yya
Ivan
o-Fran
kivs
k
MtH
overla
Buk
ovel
SkiR
esor
tKos
iv
Yaremch
e
Che
rnivtsi
050
km0
25mile
s#e
Uzh
horo
d
1 S
et u
p ba
se c
amp
in
Kolo
myy
a (p
131)
to v
isit
its
mus
eum
s an
d ar
rang
e hi
kes
into
the
hills
.
2 S
oak
up th
e ea
sy-g
oing
at
mos
pher
e of
cos
mop
olita
n
Uzhh
orod
(p14
0), a
bor
der
tow
n w
ith a
ttitu
de o
n th
e fr
ontie
r with
Slo
vaki
a.
3 W
ande
r the
pas
tel-
colo
ured
hea
rt o
f Iva
no-
Fran
kivs
k (p
124)
, a p
leas
ant
gate
way
to th
e m
ount
ains
.
4 M
ake
an e
asy-
goin
g as
cent
of
Ukr
aine
’s h
ighe
st p
eak,
Mt
Hov
erla
(p12
7).
5 B
arga
in h
ard
for H
utsu
l
souv
enirs
at m
arke
ts in
Kos
iv
(p13
3) a
nd Y
arem
che
(p12
8).
6 S
nap
on s
kis
for a
bit
of
dow
nhill
fun
at ri
tzy
Buko
vel
Ski R
esor
t (p1
30).
7 J
oin
Buk
ovyn
a’s
stud
ent p
opul
atio
n at
trip
py
Cher
nivt
si U
nive
rsity
(p13
6),
one
of E
aste
rn E
urop
e’s
mos
t m
ind-
bogg
ling
plac
es o
f le
arni
ng.
The
Car
path
ians
Hig
hlig
hts