Roy Scheider (left), Blythe Danner (right), Noah Wyle, and the rest of the cast and crew of The Myth of Fingerprints stayed at the Bethel Inn last year during filming.

Tales of the

Story By Gwen Thompson & Frank Bishopf you need anything, just press zeroand call me, any time,' I said to ourtwo new guests at the PomegranateInn in Portland's West End historicdistrict.

"'Gka M· Z ,,,y, ISS ero.Nobel prizewinning author Toni Morri-

son and her sister laughed as they checkedin. "She and her sister teased me andcalled me 'Miss Zero' all that fall week-end," says proprietress Isabelle Smiles,who has owned the inn since 1988.

"They obviously were having a goodtime together and enjoyed the second-floor front room, the one with birds hand-

8• PORItAND MONrnLY MAGA1JNE • APRn.

painted on the walls by Heidi Gerquist."For breakfast, they chose from delightsavailable to all guests at the inn, from"apple pancakes to poached eggs floren-tine, french toast with raspberries. She didtell me 'I'll be writing a new book,' so it'sreally exciting to think that she was herewith Paradise in her head."Published by Random House, Paradise

is zooming up the bestseller lists. Morri-son is just one of a long list of distin-guished writers who have found respiteand, in some cases, inspiration in Maine.

From Mark Twain ('The coldest winterI ever spent was a summer in Maine") to

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10 • PORTIAND MONI1lLY MAGAZINE • APRIL

Woody Allen (remember the lobsterscene in Annie Halln, a neverendingparade of celebrities, saints, and strangershas stayed in our hotels and inns and cre-ated a guest tradition that no other state'svisitor industry could ever hope to match.Who else has been coming here? Readon!

Regency, PortlandJohn F. Kennedy, Jr. is one of the most

vehemently tracked celebrities in Ameri-can society, so it was quite a surprise whenhe showed up in the Old Port's premierhotel, the Regency, during the off-seasonwithout a reservation. He must have chos-en the Regency for the same reasons thatDrew Bledsoe, Ron Brown, Kirstie Alley,Bruce Springsteen, and Billy Joel amongmany other prominent figures have sinceits opening in 1987.The brick structure that houses the

Regency was built in 1895 as an armoryfor troops bound for the Spanish Ameri-can War. In World War II the buildingwas utilized as an armory for the NationalGuard. In between it was a public bathhouse where for five cents one could geta clean towel, a hot shower, and a bar ofsoap. The armory was abandoned in 1962and sold to the State Paper Company for$28,000. It functioned as a paper ware-house until 1984. Eric Cianchette, theowner of the Regency, built the owners ofState Paper a warehouse on PresumpscotStreet in addition to the price of the build-ing. The paper company had refused tosell the property without the constructionof the warehouse. -FB

The Eastland Plaza, Portlandhe Eastland Hotel, situated at thecomer of High Street and Congressin downtown Portland, opened in1927, culminating a grand andexpensive venture by owner Henry

Rines. Rines set out to create accommo-dations that could rival the great hotels ofBoston and New York. In the early yearsthe halls echoed with the steps of lum-inaries from Charles Lindbergh (shortlyafter his famous flight), to Dorothy Lam-our (The Road To Bali, The Road ToMorocco, The Road To Singapore, and onand on). Radio commentator GrahamMcNamee dropped the keys to the frontdoor of the hotel into Portland Harborshortly after the grand opening in thesummer of 1927 in a flight that is oftenerroneously credited by Portlanders to

Lindbergh, but either way symbolic of thegrand hotel's pledge never to close itsdoors.In the present day the hotel has become

the lodging of choice for visiting perform-ers and rock acts. Portland urban legendcontends that deceased Nirvana guitaristand songwriter Kurt Cobain, who stayedat the Eastland during the finishing touch-es of Nirvana's breakthrough album Nev-ermind, tried on several pairs of shoes fromthe window bin at Len's Grocery. Cobainrival Billy Corgan and his SmashingPumpkins cooled their heels here, as didBob Dylan, who stayed at the Eastlandshortly after his heart troubles a couple ofyears ago. Rather than room service, Bobhad exercise equipment delivered to theroom.B.B. King and his famous guitar Lucille

stayed here as well as Cheap Trick, whowere said to raise quite a ruckus in theTop of the East, the rooftop lounge, be-fore being politely asked to return to theirquarters. Billy Joel stayed for two weeks acouple of years ago and Sara Mclaughlin,the queen of the Lillith Fair, stayed hereafter performing in Portland.The Eastland has also hosted a variety of

speakers and political figures, from RoseKennedy, Newt Gingrich and PresidentGeorge Bush to "all of the presidentialcandidates of the last five years." -FB

Captain Josiah A. MitchellHouse, FreeportThe namesake of this bed and breakfast

was indirectly responsible for launchingMark Twain's literary career in 1866. AsTwain recounts in "My Debut As a Liter-:ary Person," he was stationed in Honoluluas a correspondent for the SacramentoDaily Union when "fifteen lean and ghost-ly [shipwreck] survivors arrived there aftera voyage of forty-three days in an openboat, through the blazing tropics, on tendays' rations of food." Though laid up inbed himself, Twain knew the scoop of thecentury when he saw it, and had himselfcarried on a stretcher to the hospitalwhere the survivors were being treated sothat he might spend the night interview-ing them and writing up his notes, therebygetting the jump on his more dilatory col-leagues. A fortnight later, Twain sailed forSan Francisco with the survivors, andmade use of a tw<rweek calm in the mid-dle of the Pacific to copy the diaries keptby the Captain and two passengers duringtheir ordeal.

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12 • POKIUND MONTHLY MAGAZINE • APRIL

Twain remembers Captain Josiah A.Mitchell of Freeport "~ith reverent hon-or" and describes him as"a New England-er of the best seagoing stock of the oldcapable times." When Captain Mitchell'sclipper-ship, the Hornet, caught fire,burned, and sank on May 3, 1866, it wasone hundred-and-twenty days out fromport and thousands of miles from land.Against all odds, this "bright, simple-heart-ed, unassuming, plucky, and most com-panionable man" kept his crew-who

0Slr·- .'~F~#

>-m....J«::len:>

before long were half-crazed and murder-ous with thirst and hunger-from mutinyor cannibalism and eked out their mea-ger provisions as long as possible withshoe-leather and wood chips from the but-ter-cask. After reading all three diaries,Twain concluded that "those men did notsurvive by any merit of their own ...but bythe merit of the character and intelligenceof the captain; they lived by the masteryof his spirit. Without him they would havebeen children without a nurse; theywould have exhausted their provisions in aweek, and their pluck would not have last-ed even as long as the provisions."

Twain asked for, and received from theSacramento paper, an unheard-of hun-dred dollars per column for his grippingaccount of the disaster. Both Twain's orig-inal newspaper story and his later retro-spective, as well as all three of thesurvivors' diaries, have been published inLongboat to Hawaii by Alexander C.Brown. This book - together with originalpaintings and daguerreotypes of CaptainMitchell himself and other Hornet mem-orabilia - is available for interested gueststo peruse at the Captain Mitchell House,which is now owned and operated as abed and breakfast by Alan and LorettaBradley and their son, Dr. David Bradley.The circa 1789 building still retains

many original fixtures, such as a brick fire-place and beamed ceiling in the kitchenand crystal chandeliers in the front halland dining room. The floors are covered

with oriental rugs amassed by DavidBradleywhile working for the governmentin Saudi Arabia, Iran, Iraq, and Mghan-istan; and the walls display an eclectic col-lection of paintings by Loretta Bradleyand other contemporary artists. Guests inneed of deep relaxation can take advan-tage of the hot tub, the herb and flowergardens, or the neuromuscular treat-ments, cranial sacratherapy, and stressmanagement workshops offered by Dr.Bradley. (If you don't like to get thatrelaxed, he also runs workshops on stockoptions.)During their twenty-year tenure, the

Bradleys have witnessed the transforma-tion of Freeport from a one-store towninto the shopping mecca of the universe."When the Ralph Lauren outlet firstopened, he and his group checked in herewith all their limos," David Bradleyrecalls. "Lily Tomlin, Billie Jean King,and Robert Forbes have stayed here too.Robert was my college roommate atChapel Hill. We've also had these peoplewho won't say who they are-I thinkthey're CIA agents. We used to try to offermore entertainment for our guests, but allthey ever did was check in at three, goshopping until midnight, get up at six toshop till noon, and then leave. When U2stayed here, they went shopping at 2 a.m.to avoid being recognized by tourists."In addition to never-say-die shoppers,

the Mitchell House is also haunted by theghosts of the Captain and his wife. In1975 the Rhine Parapsychology Lab atDuke University sent up a team ofresearchers to analyze the appearance ofa woman's face at a window during thefull moon. 'They brought all this magnet-ic measuring equipment with them," saysBradley. "People were lined up in thestreet outside to watch." The result of theirinvestigations? Check in and find out foryourself!-GT

Isaac Randall House, Freeporthe 1823 Federal-style farmhousethat was reputedly a stop on theUnderground Railroad is only thetip of the iceberg. This six-acre,wooded property complete with

spring-fed pond-situated within easywalkingdistance of downtown Freeport!-also sports the most eclectic amalgama-tion of outbuildings you're likely to en-counter anywhere. The bam, for instance,used to be a dance hall with a wild reputa-tion, thanks to its convenient location right

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on the trolley line that ran between Port-land and Brunswick during Prohibition."Lots of leftover bottles still turn upevery spring," says current proprietor JimFriedlander. "As the ground freezes andthaws, they float up to the surface."Then there's the summer room made

out of a train caboose. "I saw five caboos-es for sale in Illinois while 1was drivingback from the West Coast," explains Fried-lander, who is a staunch railroad advocateand a member of Train Riders Northeast."I'd already looked for one around Maine,but 1couldn't find any, so 1had it taken offthe track with a crane and put on a flatbedtruck to get it here. It cost me $3,500."

By this time it's not so surprising thatFriedlander himself lives in the basementof the former Freeport police station."When the town built the new publicsafety building, they decided to get rid ofthe old station, which had previously beena house. They were only moving it a quar-ter-mile down the street, but they had tocut it in half to fit under L. L Bean's fiber-optic phone line on two flatbed trucks.Then we had it raised high enough tobuild a cellar underneath, and that'swhere we live."

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In addition to operating as a bed &breakfast, the Isaac Randall House catersconferences and business meetings of upto twenty people, and makes a handystopover for 1. 1. Bean vendors (Bean'soffices are right across the street), outletshoppers, and the visiting parents of col-lege kids and summer campers. It haseven served as a weekend sanctuary fromirate baseball fans for Red Sox first base-man Bill Buckner. The winter after hisinfamous fielding error lost the Red Soxthe 1986 World Series to the Mets, Buck-ner found it impossible to show his face inBoston, and fled to Freeport. "I asked himwhylhey didn't pull him from the game,"recalls Friedlander, "because I could seethat he was still in serious pain from hiship injury even while he was here. Theywanted to replace him, but he insisted onstaying in to see the game out. It's too bad,because it wasn't a mental error-he wasjust too crippled to deal with that groundball. Eventually the razzing he took got sobad that it drove him away from Andover,Massachusetts, to a ranch out in Idaho."Didn't discussing all this make for rather

awkward conversation? "No, he was OKabout it," Friedlander says,"and at least hedidn't have any trouble with people recog-nizing him here. Besides, I was rooting forthe Mets-only of course they didn't winso much as the Sox lost!" -GT

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NORUMBEGAMaine's Victorian Castle By The Sea

This spectacular stone and brick structure on the Penobscot Bay in Camden, has againbeautified the winter months with its gracious splendor. BuJt in 1886, Norumbega offers

the ambiance of a bygone era, with its gracious common rooms boasting, rich oak.paneling,carved mantels, working fireplaces and panoramic ocean views. The exceptionally well appointed

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mile strip of sand, does not appear onmany maps, and the summer residents-who are very protective of the oceanfrontproperties that have been passed down tothem for generations-emulate thedenizens of Cape Cod by removing roadsigns to prevent discovery by outsiders.Not only is the Tides the only inn on

Goose Rocks Beach, it is also one of only afew buildings there to have survived thegreat fire of 1947 that drove the wild ani-mals out of the woods and into the oceanas it swept out across the jetty and torchedTimber Island, burning to the ground theGoose Rocks casino and bowling alleyand everything else in its path-until itcame up against the formidable womanliving next door to the Tides, whose housestill stands. Legend has it that she refusedto leave when the powers that be tried toevacuate her, and remained stubbornlystanding on the beach with her annscrossed, staring down the presumptuousblaze. "The Flames Will Not ComeHere!" she declared-and 10 and behold~the wind shifted, and the Tides wasspared.The Tides owes both its original exis-

tence and its miraculous preservation towomen of unusual detennination. Thebuilding was commissioned from Port-land architect John Calvin Stevens byEmma Foss of Biddeford in 1899. Al-though Foss was married, there is norecord of her husband, which was veryunusual for the time. As is typical ofStevens' creations, the inn's design empha-sizes bay windows, gambrel rooflines, stair-cases, and ornate fireplaces-in particulara huge, eight-by-fifteen beach stone fire-place that dominates the front lobby.Early guests of note included Theodore

Roosevelt and Sir Arthur Conan Doyle,whose visits are memorialized in trompe-

. l'oeil wall murals painted by itinerantartists from Freedom, Maine. The formercharges up San Juan Hill in the stairwell,and the latter-fitted out like his owndetective with meerschaum pipe anddeerstalker hat - has frightened many aguest curious enough to ignore the "DoNot Disturb" sign on the door to his clos-et.Despite the auspicious beginning of her

enterprise, Foss was eventually forced tosell the inn to her desk clerk, who re-moved the fourth floor and its trademarkgambrel roofline in order to avoidinstalling the mandated sprinkler systemfor any building over three stories. This

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architectural desecration saddled the cur-rent owners-the mother-daughter teamof Marie Henriksen and Kristin Blom-berg-with a flat roof in the winter. "Wecould've killed him!" Kristin says withfeeling, and goes on to describe howEmma Foss'sghost-who has been knownto set off fire alarms and tuck guests intobed at night-seems on the whole to bepleased with the changes Marie andKristin have made. "I think she likes us,because we're the first female ownerssince herself. She has a real problem withmean men."No doubt Foss's ghost also approves of

the Tides' female chef, Pam White, whomakes everything from scratch with freshlocal ingredients, luring a local clienteleto the dining room all summer long. Like-wise many guests from away return yearafter year to sip cocktails on the frontporch, seated in wicker rocking chairsoverlooking the ocean. The peacefulabsence of telephones and 1V s in thebedrooms also attracts the odd celebrity inneed of an escape.Blomberg remembers the day the script

for the movie Scandal arrived for the Eng-lish actor John Hurt (The Elephant Man,1984) from his agent. "He read through itout on the second-floor front porch, todecide whether or not to take the part."(He took it, and later described the Tidesashis favoriteplace in America.) "And onetime this guy with a ponytail and purpleglassesstayed here with his family. Grow-ing up in Maine, you know, 1 thought hewas ;I little odd. He turned out to be Ged-dy Lee, the lead singer of Rush."-GT

Marginal Way House, Ogunquitt is a little known fact that MarginalWay was built upon a pathwayformed by the herding of cattle topasture. The ocean side pedestrianpromenade now funnels hordes of

tourists from the Shore Road along thespectacular ocean viewsof Ogunquit. Theway's namesake· inn, the Marginal WayHouse, has hosted American and Canadi-an cultural icons as eclectic as the townof Ogunquit itself for the last century.The owners of the Marginal Way

House, Brenda and Ed Blake, cannot sayfor certain how long ago the four storymain guest house was built. They doknow that it was moved from uptownOgunquit to its present location on WharfLane in 1880. The guest house has sincebeen joined by four other buildings, all

"Portland isno longer asleep;the arts begin to'-"be encouraged asthey should be."

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18 • POIm.AND MONfHLY MAGAZINE • APRIL

more modem, but maintaining the throw-back feel of the inn.The seldom disturbed attic of the main

house is lined from end to end withMGM movie posters of the forties andfifties, including Gone With The Wind(1939). There is a good reason for this.Apparently"Mr. Fergussen," a Hollywoodmogul of the time, owned the MarginalWay House and hosted many of his stu-dio's top stars. Clark Gable is said to havestayed in the Wharf House, and apart-ment three of the main house still con-tains a signed photograph left behind byVivian Leigh, who won best actressawards for Gone With The Wind and AStreetcarNamed Desire.The Blakes have run the Marginal Way

House since the late 1960s and haveadorned their lobby with photographs ofthe notables who have stayed there. Actorsand actresses from the Ogunquit Play-house have frequented the inn as well asperennial visitors such as Michael Ont-kean of "Twin Peaks" fame. Others whograce the wall: Ruth Warrick of CitizenKane (better known as Phoebe Tyler todaytime soap fanatics), Conrad Bain(Gary Coleman's father on "DifferentStrokes"), sculptor Nathaniel Kaz, femin-ist writer Mary Daly, director Penny Mar-shall (The Preacher'sWife, Big, A LeagueOf Their Own) and Lise Payette, who, ac-cording to Brenda Blake, is "Canada's an-swer to Johnny Carson and a leader of theseparatist movement in Canada." -FB

Asticou Inn, Northeast Harbort would be hard to top the AsticouInn's magnificent perch at the veryhead bf Northeast Harbor, withinwalking distance of Acadia Nation-al Park. Not only is summering on

Mount Desert Island the way life shouldbe, it's also the way life always has been.

. When French mapmaker Samuel deChamplain led French settlers to theNortheast Harbor area in 1613, he founda Penobscot Indian chief named Asticousummering there - probably in order toescape the black flies that made life a mis-ery inland.Concierge Guy Toole, who has worked

at the Asticou Inn for 44 of its 115 years aspotwasher, kitchen helper, busboy, dish-washer, bellhop, and head of purchasing,enthusiastically describes recent additionsand improvements: a propane-heatedfreshwater swimming pool, all-new kit-chen facilities, clay tennis courts. But he is

quick to point out that not changingthings too much is also a top priority. '1'ouwon't find a 1V in every room here.There's only one in the whole inn. We'renot owned by the Sheraton people, it's nota Holiday Inn-God forbid!-and it's nota Hyatt."In fact, the Asticou is rather unusual in

that it is owned and run by the Asti-KimCorporation, a group of wealthy summerresidents dedicated to preserving the inn'shistoric ambience. Why do people whoalready possess palatial summer cottagesin the same neighborhood care so deeplyabout the fate of the local hotel? "BecauseThursday is the staffs night off at all thesummer estates," Toole explains, "whichmeans there's no one to cook their meals.It's been that way ever since the 1920s, soevery Thursday night we host a lobsterbuffet with live music for dancing. North-east Harbor has a swimming club and acountry club and a tennis club, but theydon't have any lodge facilities, so the sum-mer people get together at the Asticou."However, Toole acknowledges that even

in Northeast Harbor people don't livequite so e,ctravagantly as they did in thegood old days. "Mrs. Brooke Astor has ahouse here with a staff of seventeen ortwenty people," he estimates, "but that'sone of the largest staffs left. She's one ofthe last 'grande dames.'" Nevertheless,once it was determined that the Asticouneeded a swimming pool, one of the Asti-Kim directors volunteered to pay half thecost if his colleagues would put up therest-which they did. Similarly, the cele-brated Asticou Azalea Garden -locatedjust across the road from the inn andboasting sixty varieties of azaleas, rhodo-dendrons, and heathers collected by not-ed landscape architect Beatrix Farrand inthe early part of this century - owes thecontinued maintenance of its splendors tothe largesse ofJohn D. Rockefeller, Jr.Although Toole loved working in the

kitchen as a teenager ("except for shellingpeas"), he now finds more inner satisfac-tion in working directly with the guests six-ty hours a week in the lobby. "Somepeople just want to do nothing but sit onthe deck and read and sip cocktails. Theybecome couch potatoes. But the peoplefrom California have a whole differentway of life, very fast-paced. They don't sitaround. If you see ladies out on the frontporch of the hotel smoking cigars, youknow they're from the West Coast. And Ireally marvel at the British. They don't

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care whether it rains, they just get outthere and make use of Mother Nahue.

"I really liked one fellow from Califor-nia, the screenwriter Jeffrey Abrams (SixDegrees of Separation, Regarding Henry,Forever Young). He ended up marryingKatie McGrath, one of our waitresses. Butmost of our celebrity guests have to regis-ter under aliases, because people comeand ask, 'Who's famous here this year?'Billy Joel stayed here for ten days while hewas having a boat custom-built in South-west Harbor. Christie Brinkley was preg-nant at the time, so she didn't get aroundmuch, but he was out every day, check-ing on his boat. He was reallow-mainte-nance, except he really hated having towear a jacket in the dining room.

"But I don't mind going out of my wayto accommodate the people who wantcoffee at 6:30, because they're always soappreciative-and I don't mean apprecia-tive with a dollar bill. Theire just soappreciative of the natural beauty ofMount Desert Island."-GT

Moorings Inn, Southwest Harborhe 200-year-old house that is nowthe Moorings Inn was in the nine-teenth century known as the resi-dence of "the Prussian Lady" andher second husband, Andrew

Haines. This remarkable woman-whosestory is recounted in God's Pocket byRachel Field - was born Dorethea Al-bertina Wilhelmina Celeste Russ in Char-lottenburg, a suburb of Berlin, but had hername summarily changed to HannahCaroline by her first husband, SamuelHadlock of Great Cranberry Island, whocould not master such a mouthful. Had-lock, an island-bred whaler and seal-hunter, possessed an insatiable wan-derlust, which, after his first wife's death,

. impelled him to leave his three childrenbehind in his sister's care and set sail forEurope, with an Eskimo couple in tow toexhibit as his meal ticket.He toured Ireland and England, and in

Germany fell in love at first sight with thedaughter of Ludwig Russ, the magistratefrom whom he obtained his license toexhibit. Never one to let the grass growbeneath his feet, Hadlock had, by the endof the day they met, found an interpreterto present his formal proposal of marriage.Naturally the Russ family was opposed tothe match: they had no intention of relin-quishing their beloved daughter to anunknown American showman. But Had-

lock succeeded in overcoming eachobjection, even going so far as to purchasea house, and a coach and pair, when Lud-wig Russ insisted that his daughter couldonly marry an established householder.After their wedding, Hadlock continued

touring with his bride, receiving a goldsnuffbox from King Frederick Augustus ofSaxony and exhibiting his Eskimos beforeKing Joseph Maximilian IV of Bavariaand Queen Caroline Maria Therese inthe garden of their summer palace, andfor King William I ofWiirttemberg in therecruiting saloon of his palace. But Had-lock's rising tide of success was soonstemmed by the death of his Eskimos; andafter Hannah Caroline gave birth to adaughter in Paris, he realized thatalthough you can take the man out ofMaine, you can't take Maine out of theman.However, once Hadlock had tri-

umphantly returned to Great CranberryIsland with his beautiful new bride, hewas only able to remain settled down forthree years before his chronic wanderlustovertook him again. This time his schemewas to hunt and stuff seals to be sold inEurope. He set sail for the Arctic in theMinerva, a two-masted schooner, leavingHannah Caroline behind to fend for her-self and their two young children.

Four long and lonely years elapsedbefore she received word of her husband'sfate from a Captain Stanley of NortheastHarbor. He reported encountering a par-ty of Eskimos in Greenland, one of whomwas carrying Samuel Hadlock's gun.According to this Eskimo, Hadlock hadwalked out across the ice in pursuit of aparticularly. fine seal, gotten separatedfrom his ship by a sudden snowstorm, andhad frozen to death in the act of raising hisgun to take aim - which was the positionin which the Eskimos found him stillcrouched the next morning.No one knows whether it was the crush-

ing irony or simple grief that temporarilyunhinged the Prussian Lady when shefirst heard the news. Instead of burstinginto tears, she immediately borrowed ahorse and wagon, loaded all the seals herhusband had stuffed before he left onto it,drove right down to the shore, anddumped them all into the ocean, ignoringthe remonstrances for such wastefulnessthat were delivered by the thrifty Yankeeneighbors she passed along the way. Even-tually Hannah Caroline recovered suffi-ciently to marry Andrew Haines and to

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bear him three children, moving from thelargest house on Great Cranberry Islandto the largest house in Southwest Harbor(now the Moorings) in the process. Sheremained in Maine for fifty-twoyears andnever saw her homeland again.

hese days the Prussian Lady's for-mer home is known for its proxim-ity to the famous Hinckley YachtYard, where "the Cadillacs ofyachts" are built. "My wife and I,

between the two of us, have over onehundred and 20-odd years in the hotelbusiness," boasts current owner LeslieKing. "I started when I was ten, and shestarted when she was seven." When Kingwas a little boy, Alice Longfellow (HenryWadsworth Longfellow's niece, and themodel for "grave Alice" in his poem 'TheChildren's Hour") still lived in a nearbycottage; and King recalls watching Frank-lin Delano Roosevelt being wheeled up tothe cottage of his friend Rev. HenryWilder Foote for a visit on his way up toCampobello. King also remembers one ofhis relatives, long ago, "riding bikes aroundtown with this summer kid named CharlieDole. Nobody thought anything of it then,but years later we heard that Charlie hadgone out to Hawaii to grow potatoes whilehe was visiting his parents, who were mis-sionaries there. Eventually he switchedover to pineapples."A summer guest King remembers with

particular relish was U. S. Senator HenryCabot Lodge. "One time, when he andhis wife were staying here right after heretired as U. S. Ambassador to Vietnam,their car wouldn't start, so I offered tohelp. I got behind the wheel, and theystarted pushing, and boy do I wish I had apicture of them pushing me in their car!They always locked their keys in the trunkof it when they packed up. They'd forgetthe keys were inside their duffel bags inthe trunk, attached to a piece of driftwoodthey picked up while cruising, becausethey never needed them on the boat.Then I'd have to crawl in through theback seat to retrieve them, and sometimesI'd even have to cut their duffel bags opento get the keys out."More recently the Moorings has been a

temporary haven for Franklin D. Roo-sevelt, Jr., Dr. Spock, Steven Rockefeller,"and all those yachting folkswho staywithus while they're picking up their boats atthe Hinckley Yacht Yard, or who come infor a shower at the end oftheir cruise."From the end of his pier, King can point

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TI SI.elle, Wllrbillis a lile preserver.

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out the summer palaces of David Rocke-feller, Caspar Weinberger, and MarthaStewart-all dwarfed to white dots bymajestic Cadillac Mountain.

King finds that in all his years ofinnkeeping, the biggest change hasoccurred in the length of the tourist sea-son. "It used to be July 1 to Labor Day, butnow it's much longer. Last year 1practi-cally had to throw everybody out on Octo-ber 17, because my son was gettingmarried here on the eighteenth." One rea-son for guests' increasing tenacity may bethe Moorings' very reasonable rates ($55-$100 per day in season)-a fringe benefitof the Kings' perseverance in their chosenfield. "I got my mortgage all paid off thirtyyears ago, so 1can have lower prices now,"King explains.-GT

Atlantic Oakes, Bar Harbormong the lodging possibilities atthis twelve-acre, oceanfront resortare rooms in the Willows, the for-mer summer mansion of Sir Har-ry Oakes, Baronet - who had the

misfortune to end his extraordinary life asthe victim of the most sensationalunsolved murder of this century. Born inSangerville, Maine, in 1874, Oakes at-tended Foxcroft Academy and graduatedfrom Bowdoin College, where he was amember of the Zeta Psi fraternity. Hewent on to Syracuse University MedicalSchool, but abandoned his studies thereafter two years in favor of the more lucra-tive profession -or so he hoped! -of goldprospector. His twenty-year search for alucky strike took him to the Klondike,Alaska, Mexico, the Philippines, Australia,New Zealand, California, and the BelgianCongo, and even caused him to be takena prisoner of the Czar of Russia whileshipwrecked off the coast of Siberia.

Fate finally smiled on Oakes in Swasti-ka, Ontario, where his Lake Shore Minebecame the second-largest gold producerin the Western hemisphere. Sometimeshis manner of dispensing his millions waspurely self-aggrandizing-as when hebuilt himself a Tudor castle in Canadaand then bought out and relocated a near-by factory simply because it was spoilinghis view of Kirkland Lake. But he was alsoheavily philanthropic, donating hugesums of money to his alma mater and oth-er charities, as well as large tracts of landfor local parks, roads, and schools. Accord-ing to Who Killed Sir Harry Oakes, byJames Leasor, he even financed a tree-

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planting scheme to ease unemploymentin the Ontario Valley, but his new all-con-suming interest was politics.Oakes had high hopes of winning a seat

in the Canadian Senate in return for hismany generous contributions to the Lib-eral Party. Unfortunately, Leasor reports,the Conservatives won the election andrewarded him instead with new tax lawsunder which he wound up personallyowing the Canadian government $3 mil-lion dollars. Apparently this circumstancewas largely responsible for Oakes' subse-quent removal of himself and his family tothe Bahamas, where at the time therewere no taxes at all. From there, his questfor prominence took him to London,where his strategic philanthropy earnedhim a hereditary baronetcy in KingGeorge VI's Birthday Honours List of1939.Now the richest baronet in the British

Empire, Oakes had also, at last, realizedhis political ambitions by winning a seatin the House of Assembly of the Bahamas.But on July 8, 1943-the morning he wasscheduled to leave his Nassau estate tojoin his wife, Lady Oakes, at the Willowsin Bar Harbor for the summer-Oakeswas found dead in his bed with four holesin his skull and feathers stuck all over hischarred and blistered body, which hadevidently been doused with gasoline andset ablaze. The great benefactor of theBahamas - who had financed manyroads, airfields, and hospitals in his newhomeland-was returned to Dover-Fox-croft for funeral and burial; and from thispoint on, his story reads like a thriller writ-ten by Scott Turow.Appropriately, ErIe Stanley Gardner,

author of the Perry Mason detective sto-ries, covered the investigation and trial forthe Hearst newspapers; and his well doc-umented jest that "Facts will never spoil aHearst story!" applies equally well to thecase itself. To begin with, the Governorof the Bahamas-who was none otherthan the Duke of Windsor (formerly KingEdward VIII, who abdicated the Britishthrone in order to marry the twice-div-orced American, Wallis Simpson) - stuckhis oar in and bungled the investigationbeyond all repair. This resulted in Oakes'son-in-law, Count Alfred de Marigny,being framed and arrested for the crimesolely on the basis of circumstantial-andin some cases, deliberately manufac-tured-evidence. One piece of supposed-ly crucial evidence was the singed hair in

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the Count's beard-which meant that hehad to get permission from the AttorneyGeneral to shave!

De Marigny, though eventually acquit-ted, was also deported, and -denied entryto the United States and Great Britain-was forced to take refuge with his friendErnest Hemingway in Cuba. Meanwhile,speculation ran wild as to what had moti-vated the Duke of Windsor's questionablerole in the debacle. Some hazarded thatperhaps an affair between de Marigny andthe Duchess of Windsor had promptedthe Duke's vengeful prosecution of theCount. Even more serious-since Oakes'death occurred right in the middle ofWorld War II - was the suggestion thatOakes and the Duke had been illegallytransferring vast sums of money to Mexicowith the assistance of their mutual friendAxel Wenner-Gren, who founded theElectrolux vacuum cleaner company andwas a close friend of Hermann Goeringand blacklisted as a Nazi sympathizer.

More elaborate theories even roped inthe minions of the legendary Americangangster Lucky Luciano. According to thisline of thought, Luciano hoped to gainparole from Sing Sing and free rein tospread his gambling rackets to theBahamas in return for rallying Siciliansupport for the Allied invasion of Italy aspart of a rigged election deal with NewYork State Governor Thomas Dewey. SirHarry Oakes, as a vehement opponent ofgambling, was a spoke that had to beremoved from the Mafia's works. Ironical-ly, Westbourne, Sir Harry Oakes' Nassauestate, was converted to a hotel-and casi-no-after his death.-GT

Penury Hall, Southwest HarborThe name sounds Dickensian to the

core, but owner Toby Strong has searchedthe literature extensively and never onceencountered it. "Actually, Gretchen andI named the place to reflect the Englishtradition of bed and breakfasts being anaffordable alternative to hotels. We couldget away with charging a lot more than wedo." But despite one-night rates of only$65-$70 in season, a stay at Penury Hall isfar from penurious. The 1830s house isdecorated with original oil paintings andwatercolors by Rod Slater, Robert Chase,and other Maine artists; seventy-eightthriving houseplants - including manybrightly colored orchid cacti - beef up theatmosphere's oxygen content; two Mainecoon cats are on call for cuddling; and a

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canoe awaits the adventurous, a sauna theexhausted, and an eclectic library of 1,000books the literary. "We do serve a Penuri-ous Omelet, though," says Strong. "It'spoor because it doesn't have any meat init, just cheese and salsa."

hy else, besides cost, do sometravelers prefer bed and break-fasts to traditional hotels?"People who seek total privacyshould go to a hotel. People

who like to interact with other peopleknow they'll meet folks of a similar turnof mind if they stay at a bed and breakfast.We had one couple that came here sevenyears in a row, until suddenly they saidthey couldn't come any longer, becausethey'd just bought the bed and breakfastup the street and become our competi-tors! Basically, you become an honorarymember of the family while you stayhere-except that you don't have to dothe dishes."Do guests eyer feel so much at home

that they accidentally leave some of theirbelongings behind? "Oh sure, I'm alwaysfinding shoes under the beds. But I don'tmail everything back right away. If youfind certain articles of clothing hiddenaway, you don't know for sure who theybelong to, or where guests spent theirtime-and you don't want to land in hotwater by returning things to the wrongperson. If you're in the hospitality busi-ness, you can't make assumptions abouthow people traveling together are related,or r~ise your eyebrows when two menrequest a room with a double bed."

So how does one recover from the strainof being on duty twenty-four hours a day,seven days a week during high tourist sea-son? "We also have a house in theBahamas, called Penury Hall South,where we spend the winter."-GT

Captain Lindsey Inn, RocklandAmid the revitalization of Rockland

stands the Captain Lindsey Inn, built as aprivate home by the Lindsey family in1837. The inn strives to maintain thedecor and ambience of a sea captain'shome in the nineteenth century. A com-plete restoration and renovation since1994 by owners Ken and Ellen Barnes,sea captains themselves, has returned thestructure to its original demeanor. In fact,the rescue of Captain Lindsey from itsdecades long hiatus as the offices of theCamden Rockland Water Company issymbolic of the rescue of Rockland in the

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last ten years from a near ghost town to itsstatus as an up and coming artist commu-nity in the Penobscot Bay. The inn issuperbly decorated with impeccabledetail.The Captain Lindsey's restaurant, the

Waterworks, has had many famous diners,but none as auspicious as frequent visitorJulia Child. Julia held her eighty-fifthbirthday this past summer at the inn'srestaurant, which comes highly recom-mended from the innkeeper, who jokeswith a smiling voice, "my food's damngood." The Farnsworth Museum, featur-ing work by three generations of Wyethshas drawn all sorts of artists to Rocklandand the Captain Lindsey. Most recently,featured artist Beverly Hallam from York(specializing in painting and mixed medi-urn) stayed at the Lindsey while her workwas displayed in the main gallery of theFarnsworth.Owners Ken and Ellen Barnes are real

Maine sea captains, owning and operatingthe Stephen Taber and the Pauline.According to the owner, the Taber is the"oldest documented sailing vessel in con-tinuous service in the United States." Sheis in her 127th year of continuous sailing.The Pauline is an 83-£oot motor yachtdesigned to be a "New England innafloat."-FB

Combining today's technology with old fashioned service

Black Point Inn, ScarboroughDave Brubeck, the great jazz piano play-

er, went forty years between solo jazzalbums. The drought was ended during amonth-long stay at the Black Point Innthat gave birth to the inspiration thatbecame Just You, Just Me. The album fea-tures a photo of two Adirondack chairsunder an apple tree, which was taken onthe grounds of the Black Point. PeterDugas, brother of resort manager MarkDugas, is something of a musician him-self. According to Eva, the reservationsmanager, Peter wanted very badly to find

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a way to play with Brubeck but was toointimidated too approach him. Brubeckeventually heard about this and invitedPeter to jam with him for an afternoon.The employees of the Black Point are

vel)' proud of the guest tradition at the innand its formal policies. Eva remembershearing about a governors conference inthe sixties in which, as is usually the case,jacket and tie were required. The gover-nor of Connecticut only had a shirt onand was denied access to the dining room."I'm the governor of Connecticut," heretorted testily. "Well, this is the BlackPoint Inn," came the calm reply.Many golfers have journeyed to secretive

and private Prout's Neck for a summerstay, including Arnold Palmer (duringHurricane Gloria), Curtis Strange, and,er, O.J. Simpson (just before). The inn,which has been featured in Travel 0-Leisure, has also been very popular withfilm stars such as Paul Newman andWoody Allen.

York Harbor Inn,YorkIn the early to mid seventeenth centul)'

original settlers of the Isle of Shoals (tenmiles off the coast of Portsmouth) literally

dismantled their homes and moved toYork Harbor. One of these cabins wasreerected in 1637 where the York HarborInn now stands. The inn grew from theseinauspicious beginnings over the nextcentury as a farmhouse was attached tothe cabin and a horse stable was addedbelow. The stable is now the site of thePub, the inn's vel)' charming English stylewatering hole. York Harbor became aresort hot spot at the tum of the century,connected by railroad to Boston and NewYork. As the rail lines fell out of use in the1920s and fires engulfed the area's hotels,York Harbor fell out of style with big-citysocialites.. Gal)' and Joseph Dominguez took overthe inn in 1979 and rescued it from disre-pair. They added onto it considerably,reestablished and expanded the kitchenand in 1984 purchased a second building,the Yorkshire House, which had beenbuilt in 1783. The Learning Channel hasrecently featured the inn in its "GreatCountty Inns" special.

Mark Twain owned a home on the YorkRiver and is said to have been a nightlyguest at the pub. Nearly a centul)' earlier,John Hancock, who owned and operated

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Kitchen a wharf business on the river, is certain tohave hitched up his horse at the stables. Inmore modern times Bette Davis, RogerMoore, and Talia Shire have dropped in(the latter pair while filming Bed 6 Break-fast). Dave Brubeck played in Cape Ned-dick in 1985and stayed at the inn, and theBaldwins were in town for a wedding andstopped in for dinner. Kevin Bacon was adinner' guest as well.-FB

Bethel Inn, Bethelhe long visitor tradition of theBethel Inn, established in 1913,was shaken by the ttbad Mrs. Cuc-ci," who stayed eight or nine yearsago on a trip to Maine to deliver

one of her children to summer camp. Shewas ttshort and svelte and very made upand glamorous. She drank Manhattansand talked a great deal about her massiveassortment of shoes," according to market-ing manager Heidi Davidson. The gener-al manager came back from a round ofgolf on the inn's highly touted course tofind the ttbad Mrs. Cucci" sunbathingtopless at the pool. Apparently there wasquite an uproar - it's a family inn - andMrs Cucci, despite a volley of protests,continued this practice for the durationof her stay. The story ends with a bizarreepilogue as ttshe is now evidently in prisonfor murdering someone."

Paul Newman and Joanne Woodwardcame in the summer of 1978 for a littler&r, but instead found themselves beseton all sides by the curious residents ofBethel. The country club members sel-dom used the pool facilities, but whenPaul decided to spend an afternoon pool-side mothers suddenly showed to tttaketheir children swimming."

Noah Wyle, star of1Vs ttE.R." and therest of the crew (Roy Scheider, BlytheDanner, et. al.) of the recently releasedfeature film The Myth of Fingerprints,which was shot in Bethel, had a morepleasant stay. Noah considers himself a bitof a pool shark and challenged the staff ofthe inn to find someone who could beathim (lucky for him, Paul Newman wasn'ta guest at the time). He was pointed in thedirection of Wendy, a waitress at the res-taurant. ttl understand you're the best poolplayer in Bethel," he challenged, tTll playyou for a hundred bucks." Wendy searchedher pockets. ttHow about $5?"They playedoften in the evenings at the Back Stage, alocal bar, and according to Heidi, tWendywould just whip him." -FB &

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