the cfmi – pitti immagine : where it all began · 2014. 8. 7. · r very wel have to do environme...
TRANSCRIPT
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THE CTHE CENTRO
The Birth o
FMI – O DI FIRENZE
of Italian F
PITTI IPER LA MOD
Fashion – A
IMMAGDA ITALIANA –
All photos ar
GINE : W– PITTI IMMA
re copyright
WHEREAGINE : WHER
of Archivio
E IT ALLE IT ALL BEGA
o Giorgini -
L BEGAAN
AN
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Florence trparticular story that and beautyEtruscan aof excellenLeonardo
The Birth o
ruly is a ho city has pr has been cy producedart of cast ance in art hada Vinci, B
of Italian F
ome for artiroduced sucenturies in
d with innovand engravasn’t ceased
Botticelli an
Fashion – A
ists and artch a wealth the makingvative praced bronze sd since. Thend Giotto ar
All photos ar
tisans, for wh of skill andg. Evidencectices and csculptures ae Renaissanre all spark
re copyright
whatever thd creativitye of the artreativity caand mirrorsnce and the
kling stars in
of Archivio
he reasons my, what we isan traditian be founds from 500 Be great artisn Florence’
o Giorgini -
may be that do know isions of crafd as far bacBC and thists Michela’s great hist
t this that it’s a
ftsmanship ck as the s tradition ngelo, tory.
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In the morSanta CrocknowledgeIt was in twith AmerTiffany whIn the postthe city ofinternationwith the aunder the for their hsouth and As a true ehe opened Coin. Therwere able, craftsmaninterest of boater hatled him to Giorgini pl
Departure photos are
re recent 19ce were buse of materiathis time, 19rica, openinho bought ft second wo
f Florence’snal trade. HdministratiMarshall Peadquarter overlookinentrepreneu the first gire he organ not only toship, this w
f soldiers wits, but as a realise the lanned his
of the USA copyright of
920s Florenstling with als, particul922, that Gng his first ofrom him siorld war pes economy aHe had estaion that wa
Plan. In thers as it was ng Porta Rour, Giorginiift shop in Fised the stoo sell their p
was the firstishing to br strategic m importancgreatest str
A Tour to prof Archivio G
nce was a cithundreds olarly of leat
Giovanni Baoffice thereilverware a
eriod the woand Giorginablished a was actively i spring of 1situated in
omana. i immediateFlorence, inore as a fairproducts but artisan mring home g
move of his ce of fashionrategic mov
omote GiorgGiorgini -
ty filled wiof artisans wther, that hattista Giore in 1923 anand jewellerork of the Ani was fullywide circle oinvolved in
1944 the Aln a strategic
ely started n Via Calzar of sorts byut also, to warket of its
gifts of Florown to helpn in new pove: to creat
gini’s busine
th ateliers, working withad been pargini began nd selling tory. Artiginato Ay aware of tof connection the reconslied Army r
c position o
collaboratiiuoli and in
y giving thework and sh kind in Florentine leatp restart thostwar sociee and expor
ess. The Bi
San Frediath hand skiassed on thr trading in o departmen
Artistico wahe importaons with Amstruction ofrequested tn the Bello
ing with then the buildine artisans sthow the buorence. It whers, bags,
he economyety and so Grt Italian F
rth of Italia
ano, the Oltill, capabilirough the y these artisnt stores su
as fundameance of an merican buf Italy afterto use GiorgoSguardo hi
em and a yng now occtands wher
uyers first-hwas not only lace and st
y. In turn thGiovanni BFashion.
an Fashion
treArno, ity, years. an crafts uch as
ental to
uyers and r the war gini’s homeill facing
year later cupied by e they
hand their y in the traw his move
Battista
– All
e
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We spoke rediscoververy beginfor twentyafter makicatalogue sort througIn conversCentral Fland intere
“…everythworld, the big balls. Ssomethinghard to doit was a veMy grandfwar he couand in factpaid good because ofwork with
to the graned his gran
nning with hy years in thing an agreethe collectigh and catasation with orence, he ssting envir
hing was be women, thStill the atmg I remembeo what you ery positivefather’s dreuldn’t so het he did tha attention tf that so the him becau
ndson of Giondfather’s vhis first fashe home of ement in 20ion. Neri tealogue. Mr Fadigaspoke affeconment he
eautiful, hiheir elegantmosphere wer very welhave to do
e environmeeam was to e said ‘I wilat very veryto others …e people we
use it was a
ovanni Batvast collecti
hion show his aunt. H005 with Arlls us there
ati in the floctionately a created at
s house; het dresses anwas very int
l everythin at your beent. start a dipll sell Italiany well …he
… and probaere always h pleasure.”
ttista Giorgion of photo in Villa ToHe immediarchivio di S
e are still th
oral courtyabout his gr Villa Torri
e was also ad they hadteresting, evng has to best but also
lomatic carn products
e was very gably this is happy to co
gini, Neri Faographs, parrigiani, th
ately realiseStato Firenhousands of
ard of his hrandfather giani.
n expert an a lot of funverything he perfect plu to enjoy lif
reer, to be a abroad andgood in inte one of the rome to Flor
adigati, whapers and mat had been
ed its culturze, they be
f documents
hotel Resideand growin
ntique collen partying had to be peus it is veryfe to be nice
a diplomat, d this is a weracting witreasons he wrence to com
ho in 1990 memorabilian quietly stral importagan to scans and photo
enza Il Villng up in the
ector, this faand organierfect, this
y importante to yoursel
, but becausway to be dth people awas so succme to his h
a from the tored away ance and, n and ographs to
ino in e beautiful
ashion sing those is t to work lf to others
se of the iplomatic’,
and he also cessful ouse to
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Gloria SwaGiorgini
Thanks to fashion deJole Venezcommercia
“He realisewas to creaa businessmjust high feveryday fcan do this
anson and G
his diplomsigners sucziani and Ral fashion s
ed that socate businesman he reafashion andfashion ands, we are go
G.B.Giorgin
matic abilityh as Emilio
Roberto Caphow to be h
iety was chss to generaalised that td unique pied he realisedood in it, we
ni at his hom
y Giorgini wo Pucci, Sorpucci, amonhosted in hi
hanging comte wealth n
there was a eces made ind that ‘…ise can produ
me in 1955.
was able to relle Fontanngst others is own hom
mpletely, henot only for huge new mn France ans going to buce …’.
5.10 – All i
gather togena, Emilio and set abo
me Villa Tor
e was a busr himself bumarket opend Paris fo
become a bi
images are c
ether both Schuberth,out organisrrigiani in F
sinessman fut also for tening up in r going outg business i
copyright of
emerging a, Simonettasing Italy’s February 19
first of all…the others… the States,t at night bin the futur
f Archivio-
and known a Visconti, first 951.
… his goal …and so as , no more ut re and we
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G.B. GiorgGiorgini
Although was hinderincome ratde la Modedecline in taffordableand therei
“He saw thstores, masay ‘This iotherwise he said: ‘Npull in evefashion waleading rolHis goal wbig in orde
gini with US
Paris neverred by highte had fallee Français othe Parisia, high qualn Giorgini f
here was thglieria fromis beautifulit won’t sel
No! We muserything elsas the only le.
was not juster to sell ev
S Ambassad
r lost its poh production dramaticon the licenn monopoly
lity fashionfind his cha
his change am Como, Le, the qualitll’. So somest produce use’, so he us tool to be u
t to launch erything, n
dor Reinhar
sition as thn costs, sell
cally and rensing, reproy and haut and day-wance to brin
and he thouecco, Milan,ty is beautife Italian prounder Italiased Fashionused to do t
Italian fashnot just fash
rdt in 1953
he world’s fling its luxu
estrictive pooduction ante-couture, wear, openeng forth the
ught… he u, the Northful but we noducers usean names an to create Mthat, just F
hion, his gohion…”
– All photo
fashion capiury collectiolicies impond exportatcoupled wid a windowe Made In I
used to sell h Italy …soneed to haved French nnd if we wiMade In Ita
Fashion, he
oal was to m
s are copyrig
ital, in the pions when tosed by the ion of Frenth an increa
w of opportuItaly brand
to North A customers
ve a Frenchnames, he will be able toaly as a bra realized th
make Made
ight of Arch
post-war pthe average Chambre S
nch designsasing demaunity for co
d.
American des used to coh name for twas mad abo sell fashioand he realihat Fashion
In Italy st
ivio
eriod it e personal Syndicale . This and for ompetitors
epartment me and this brand out that on this will ised
n had a
rong and
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L’Europeo are copyrig
Newspaperght of Archiv
r showing a vio Giorgini
headline rei
eading “Thee War of thee Tailors” 001.01015 – AAll photos
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All photos are copyrighht of Archivvio Giorgini i
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Illustration“Banjo Lin
n drawn by ne” from Ca
the famous fapucci colle
fashion shoction 1956 –
ow sketch ar– All photos
rtist Brunetts are copyrig
ta Marucellight of Archi
i – Linea Bivio Giorgin
Banjo ni
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Capucci –
1959 – All p photos are ccopyright of f Archivio GGiorgini
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Illustration“Chrysalis
n drawn by Line” 1956
the famous f6 – All phot
fashion shotos are copyr
ow sketch arright of Arc
rtist Brunettchivio Giorgi
ta Marucelliini
i – Linea CCrisalide
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So it was on February 12,1951, in his home of Villa Torrigiani, that Giovanni Battista Giorgini held Italy’s first fashion show featuring 180 collections, several female buyers from elite North American department stores including Jessica Davis of Bergdorff Goodman, Gertrude Ziminsky of New York’s B. Altman and Stella Haniania of San Francisco’s I.Magnin, and a few international journalists.
Giorgini had used his connections and charm to convince these high profile buyers to attend his first show in Florence as they were already in Europe for the Paris collections. In the 1950′s, a journey from America to Europe was a long boat trip followed by a long train ride so Giorgini who was used to hosting international buyers in his home, invited his guests for elegant supper at his home and held grand evening balls to entertain his clients as much as to showcase the fine Italian fashion.
Despite the small number of designers and buyers, the event proved to be a great success. All the collections shown that evening were sold, the buyers contacted their stores to send more funds and the ateliers were inundated with orders.
The event gained extensive media coverage in international fashion magazines such as Fashion trade publication, Women’s Wear Daily’s follow-up headline: “Italian styles gain approval of US Buyers.”
Giorgini’s initiative had proven successful in introducing sophisticated Italian fashion, quality fabrics, skilled technical tailoring and many view this event as the official birth of Italian fashion.
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First Italiacopyright of
After the s1951. Thishosting thdesigners fEmilio Pu
an High Faof Archivio G
success of ths time the ehe growing afrom Romecci present
ashion ShowGiorgini
his first fasvent took pattendancee, Milan, Tued his first
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shion show,place at the, there were
urin, as well full collecti
ni’s home V
, Giorgini qe Grand Hoe around sel as Florencion.
Villa Torrigi
quickly orgaotel in Floreeventy buyce. Ferraga
ani, Firenz
anised a secence, a biggers and joumo, made t
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tos are
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Tenth ItaliGiorgini
Tenth ItaliGiorgini
ian High F
ian High F
Fashion Show
Fashion Show
w, Sala Bia
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anca, July 1
anca, July 1
1955 – All p
1955 – All p
photos are co
photos are co
opyright of A
opyright of A
Archivio
Archivio
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In July 1952 in the beautiful Sala Bianca of Palazzo Pitti, Giorgini’s fourth fashion show was a pivotal event for his enterprise with nine fashion houses participating, along with sixteen houses showcasing boutique styles and sportswear, Florence became the place where all the major Italian fashion shows were held up until 1982 in the Sala Bianca in Palazzo Pitti.
In 1954 Giorgini and his collaborators realised it was necessary to organise this growing wave of fashion business and together they founded the Centro di Firenze per la Moda Italiana (CFMI) designed to promote the fashion events. From then on, this organisation would promote all the fashion events. There were 500 buyers and 200 journalists at the 1955 shows, making “Pitti” the biggest fashion trade fair in Europe.
Now sixty years on the CFMI and Pitti Immagine, are still going strong and the Palazzo Pitti Fashion shows have grown to include Pitti Uomo in 1972 at the Hotel Villa Medici, Pitti Donna in ’75 at Palazzo Strozzi, Pitti Bimbo in ’75, Pitti Filati in ’77, Pitti Casual in ’78 and Pitti Maglia in ’82 devoted to Italian knitwear.
Italian fashion has influenced the world’s designers and fashion admirers, setting a standard of excellence in style and production that has withstood the threat of fast fashion, cheap counterfeiting, economic pressures and more.
With such a wealth of natural talent and innate style Italian designers such as Versace, Ferragamo, Gucci, Emilio Pucci, Cavalli etc. have deservedly become the stars of the fashion world and it’s difficult to talk about fashion without mentioning their influence so let’s also tip our hat to Count Giovanni Battista Giorgini, the great man who had the vision and charisma to create the international platform for Italian Fashion to stand proudly on.
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Neri FadigSpyder
gati with thee original CCapucci creaation on dispplay at his HHotel Villa –– photo by FFashion
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Special thaRaffaello Nphotograp
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