the devil's gold, photoreporter luca catalano gonzaga

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The Devil's Gold

Photoreporter Luca Catalano Gonzaga

Looming 2,799 m (9,183 ft.) above sea level, Gunung Ijen in Indonesia’s eastern Java is a volcanic wonder that attract hundreds of foreign and domestic

tourists daily. During daytime, they climb the mountaintop to reach Kawah Ijen, the volcano’s

crater lake famous for its mesmerizing turquoise hue. When darkness descends, hikers clamor to witness the glowing blue liquid fire that streams

from the crater down the mountainsides. It isn’t lava, but the sulfur for which Kawah Ijen is renowned.

It is also sulfur that brings hundreds of miners to Kawah Ijen every day. They make the perilous journey climbing 9,000 ft. to the summit and then 3,000

ft. down into the crater.

The Sulfur Miners at Kawah Ijen, a crater in eastern Java, Indonesia

Inside the womb of the Ijen Kawah volcano, in Eastern Java, Indonesia, the miners go deep in search of the Devil's gold, as sulfur

has always been known.

Every day, three hundred men leave the base camp at the slopes of the mountain to reach the top of the volcano. They climb up three

kilometres and then head downwards until the opening of the crater where the sulfur crystals lie.

Nine hundred meters deep towards hell, defying the unbearable heat, rarefied air and the darkness, without any protection. The sulfurous

gas hits the throat, burns the lungs, makes tears spring from the eyes.

Only a few men have been given old gas masks as part of the scarce working gear: many prefer to work at night because the heat is more

tolerable, putting a wet cloth in the mouth, in the vain hope of protecting themselves from the fumes and breathing better.

A very hard kind of work which will end soon - the average life expectancy of the sulfur miners does not go beyond 50 years.

The sulfur slabs are broken with the help of a metal pole and then carried in reed baskets that weigh 70 to 90 kilos.

Then begins the return path of the 21st century sulfur picker, heading towards the volcano's entrance, in a precarious balance, carrying a huge load that deforms the spine, bends the legs and

produces ulcers on his shoulders.

Then he delivers the sulfur slabs for the purification process, which happens at night and lasts 14 hours. All this for 5 euros per day, 10

if the miner is able to repeat the same path once more.

Kawah Ijen, the volcanic crater lake, in Indonesia’s eastern Java, is where miners go in search of sulfur, Oct. 28, 2014.

Zainuri, 26, a sulfur miner for the past eight years, removes a sulfur slab, Nov. 2, 2014.

A group of miners look for sulfur slabs, Nov. 4, 2014. Mining at Kawah Ijen officially began in 1968, and a state company is now running the mine.

Buang, 39, uses a wet cloth to protect his face while surrounded by the toxic gases that burn eyes and lungs, Oct. 29, 2014.

Poniman, 35, breaks the sulfur slabs using a metal pole, Nov. 2, 2014.

Sariman, 23, lifts a huge sulfur slab at Kawah Ijen volcano, Nov. 2, 2014.

Murahman, 47, a sulfur miner for 25 years, Nov. 4, 2014.

Mistar, 43, a sulfur miner for the past 25 years, uses an electric torch to lighten his path

Mat Buang, 47, a sulfur miner for 24 years now, makes his way amidst the fumes with the help of a torch.

Sapiupin, 39, a sulfur miner for the past 17 years, looks for sulfur slabs amidst the toxic fumes. The sulfurous gases burn the lungs, the skin and the eyes.

Matsari, 39, a sulfur miner for 10 years, carries the fully loaded baskets on his shoulders, Nov. 2, 2014.

Sahron, 36, catches his breath as he climbs the volcano’s steep slopes carrying 150 lb. of sulfur. Nov. 3, 2014.

Suwono, 33, shows damage to his back due to carrying the heavy loads, Oct. 30, 2014.

Suwono, 33, with his wife Isniyab and son Reny. He has been working with sulfur for nine years. Oct. 30, 2014.

Luca Catalano Gonzaga is a photojournalist and founder of Witness Image,

an association whose objective is put together photographic projects on the violation of human rights worldwide.

Rome-based photographer traveled to Indonesia in late last year and spent 10 days at Gunung Ijen to capture the miners’ daily toil. Many of the photos were taken after dark, as many men prefer to

work when the heat is more tolerable.

Witness Image

WITNESS IMAGE

is a non-profit association founded in 2010 by Susanna Bucci, journalist, and Luca Catalano

Gonzaga, photoreporter.

Its purpose is to share their view of the world in constant transformation and, with their choice of

images and words, engage those who believe that positive social change is achievable collectively.

Witness Image

Witness Image

Witness Image

Witness Image

Witness Image

Witness Image

Witness Image

Witness Image

Witness Image

Witness Image

Witness Image

Witness Image

Witness Image

Witness Image

Witness Image

Witness Image

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Witness Image

cast The Devil's Gold, Photoreporter Luca Catalano Gonzaga

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