A PUBLICATION OF THE CAT BREEDERS ASSOCIATION

THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE FOR NEW KITTEN OWNERS

THE CAT BREEDERS ASSOCIATION

THE CAT BREEDERS ASSOCIATION

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INDEX

Introduction page. 4

Collecting your kitten page. 5

Equipment page. 7

Feeding page. 8

Vaccinations and Worming page 10

Safety and First aid page. 12

Training page. 14

Discipline and Identification page. 15

Insurance page. 16

Cat Breeders Association page. 18

Personal details page. 19

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INTRODUCTION

Congratulations to you and your new bundle of joy!

To many, owning a kitten is like having a baby. In many ways it is, but

remember with all the joys and fun that you will undoubtedly have, come the

added responsibilities and pitfalls!

Like most things in life, being well prepared for the new arrival is essential.

This booklet aims to give you some insight into what to expect from your new

kitten and how to go about bringing him/her up to be a happy, healthy cat.

For more detailed information there is a vast array of books that are available

that give advice on rearing kittens and being a responsible cat owner. Your

vet or breeder would also always be ready to assist in any way they can, so

make the most of them!

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COLLECTING YOUR KITTEN

If a kitten is healthy and eating well, a breeder will normally allow him/her to

go to their new home between eight and twelve weeks old.

Make sure you have a suitable box or cat carrier lined with an old towel with

you when you collect your kitten. Also, be sure to have plenty of kitchen roll

to hand for those little unforeseen accidents!

Normally, breeders will give you a pack to take with you that will contain:

• details of what your kitten has been fed and how often;

• when they have been wormed and when it is next due;

• when they should be vaccinated;

• your kitten’s pedigree certificate;

• certificates of any breed tests that have been performed;

• a diet sheet;

• details of any special requirements your breed may have;

• your purchase receipt.

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COLLECTING YOUR KITTEN

Remember that being taken from their mother maybe a very traumatic

experience for your kitten. It is essential that in the early days you devote as

much time to your kitten as possible. Your kitten needs to feel safe and

reassured within their new family. Try to have your kitten’s bed somewhere

near to the family in a warm, quiet place. Kittens tend to sleep rather a lot

and should be settled down at your bedtime after the last feed for the day.

If you already have another pet, the best time for them to meet the new

kitten is at mealtime. It is probably wise to keep your other pet confined

while your kitten explores its new surroundings. If your existing pet is a dog

you may want to keep him on a lead until the two have been properly

introduced! Remember, if you have fish or birds as pets, it may not be your

kitten that needs protecting so be sure to take the necessary precautions!

A new kitten needs time to settle into their new surroundings. During their

first weeks in your home, they should be allowed some quiet time to explore

each room thoroughly. Only after they have grown accustomed to their indoor

environment and have adjusted to a regular feeding schedule should you

allow them to venture outdoors. If you acquire a kitten during the winter, you

should wait for warmer weather before allowing them outside.

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EQUIPMENT

In all the excitement of getting your new kitten, it would be easy to go mad

and spend a fortune on equipment.

However, there are some essential items that you will need to get in advance

to make sure you are prepared when you bring your kitten home.

Your kitten will need:

• A bed - by all means buy a bed for your cat if you wish: but do not besurprised if it settles for its own choice of sleeping place. Most cats donot feel secure at floor level - you could try a cushion somewhere warmbut high up that your cat has easy access to.

• Food / water - please see page 8 for feeding advice.

• Food and water bowls - these should be heavy enough to avoid beingtipped over while your cat is feeding or being knocked over by largefooted adults!

• Toys - Make sure the toys are safe for your kitten. Many commonly usedcat ‘toys’ such as string, rubber bands, aluminium foil and cellophanecan be dangerous if they are swallowed.

• Grooming brushes and combs. Grooming should be a regular part of yourcat’s routine. Take the opportunity to give your cat a quick health check.

• Scratching posts - A scratching post, bought or homemade, will give yourkitten somewhere to exercise, as well as helping to keep claws and yourfurniture in good condition! Show your kitten how to use its new toy assoon as possible.

• Basket or carrier - choose a good quality carrier that is well ventilatedand easy to clean. Try to accustom your kitten to the carrier from an earlyage, it will make trips to the vet etc. far less stressful for both you andyour cat in the future!

• Collar - a collar should be elastic or have a breakaway section, so thatthe kitten can escape if the collar catches on something. The collarshould carry an identification tag in case your kitten gets lost.

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FEEDING

Once you have found your sturdy feeding bowls, place them in a quiet spot.

Try to ensure that your kitten is not disturbed while it is eating.

Your breeder will tell you what your kitten has been fed up to now and it is

wise, at least for a few days, to use the same food. Once you feel that your

kitten has settled in, you could try him on a different food if you wish. Do not

switch to the new food all at once; try mixing it with some of the food your

kitten is used to, increasing the amount of the new food over a period of

days.

Cats are carnivorous, they become mature at about 7 to 8 months old. Up to

this time its protein requirements are higher and the protein should be of

animal origin. Cats cannot survive on a vegetarian diet! Cats also have

specific nutritional needs and reputable brands, either canned or dry food,

cater for those needs. Remember if dry food is fed, water must be available

at all times.

Do not feed your cat chicken bones or skin. Do not feed fish all the time and

do not feed liver alone more than once a week. Most cats will only eat what

they need.

Your cat is a natural hunter. Don’t assume that they are hungry and hunting

for food. If your cat does bring you a ‘gift’, accept it - it is meant as a

contribution to the larder!

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FEEDING

When feeding your kitten, keep the following in mind:

• Do not disturb them while they are eating.

• Provide fresh water at all times and encourage them to drink frequentlyby having the water dish at least six feet away from the food so that theydon’t associate water only with eating.

• The amount of food your kitten needs will vary with age, weight, breed,temperament, environment and activity level. Your breeder can adviseyou. Up to six months of age your kitten may have three meals a day.

• Do not substitute milk or other liquids for water. To a cat, milk is food -an important one for kittens. It is not necessary to give milk to adult catsbut many enjoy it occasionally. Remember though that most cats cannotproperly digest the lactose in milk which can cause upset stomachs.Therefore special cat milks are available.

• Do not give your cat raw egg white or more than 2 eggs a week.

• Never feed them dog food, the protein balance is not suitable for them!

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VACCINATIONS AND WORMING

It is important to register your kitten with a vet as soon as possible. They will

give you information on vaccinations, worming, diet, neutering and even

insurance.

As the old adage goes, prevention is better than cure. One of the best ways

to control the diseases that are found in cats is by vaccination.

In the UK, cats are normally vaccinated against; Feline Enteritis,

Chlamydiosis, Cat Flu and Feline Leukaemia Virus. These diseases can be

killers or they can cause permanent damage. They are endemic in the UK –

i.e. found within the pet population. Vaccination is vital to prevent, and in the

long term hopefully eradicate, these diseases and the suffering that goes with

them. Cat Flu vaccines need boosting annually.

Rabies is another disease controlled by a vaccine. Although it is not endemic

in the UK, if you want to take your pet abroad under the Pet Travel Scheme,

a rabies vaccination is obligatory.

Although kittens get some immunity from their mothers, they and young cats

are especially vulnerable. It is important that they are regularly vaccinated

and that this continues throughout their life. The kitten’s first course of

vaccinations is normally given at about six to nine weeks old. These are

usually repeated yearly, but your vet will advise you as to what is necessary.

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VACCINATIONS AND WORMING

Some people worry about vaccinating their cats, but it should be

remembered that serious side effects are extremely rare. Also, the decreasing

incidence of these diseases is due, to a large extent, to owners arranging for

their cats to be routinely vaccinated.

You may be surprised to learn that most kittens are born with roundworm.

They are infected by their mother before they are born and afterwards via her

milk. Roundworm, or Toxocara, causes diarrhoea and a distended abdomen.

By three weeks of age it’s possible for a kitten to contaminate its

environment. It is essential that they are regularly wormed. Your breeder

should have already wormed your kitten, but you must continue with the

treatment once at home. Your vet will advise you on the frequency of

worming required to control infestation.

There are many worming treatments available. Choose one that tackles both

the migrating larval and adult stages, your vet will advise you. There is a

section at the end of this booklet where you can record details of your vet

and your kitten’s vaccinations and worming treatments.

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SAFETY AND F IRST AID

Accidents happen all too easily, but with care you can keep your kitten safe.

Below are some of the steps you can take to try and avoid accidents. Use

your common sense and think of your kitten as a very lively toddler running

around your home, fascinated by and wanting to play with everything!

Look around your home, possibly on all fours! Be aware of anything which

may pose a danger to your kitten and wherever possible put it out of reach or

in a safe container – electric cables, medicines, disinfectants, bleach,

cleaners, paint / paint stripper, mouthwash, soap, even cosmetics.

Remember that stairs and stairwells are potential hazards too. Aim to make

your house kitten-proof!

Unfortunately, people are often unwittingly the cause of injury to kittens.

Many cats have sustained broken legs by getting under their owner’s feet,

children can cause injuries if their play becomes at bit rough – they should

be shown how to handle kittens properly.

Outside the home, the garden, shed and garage can be dangerous places for

kittens. Keep insecticides, slug pellets, weed-killers, petrol, paint, cleaning

fluids and sharp tools out of reach. Ideally, stop your kitten from gaining

access to the shed or garage at all.

Be aware that many garden plants and shrubs are poisonous, so to avoid

temptation do not have them in your garden. The plants to be avoided

include: foxgloves, lily-of-the-valley, deadly nightshade, rhododendron,

laburnum, hemlock, daffodil bulbs, monkshood, ivy, rhubarb, mistletoe, yew,

holly. This is just an example of some of the plants that you are most likely to

come across. There are a number of other plants that are poisonous or have

poisonous berries. Good gardening books will tell you which these are or you

could ask for help at a garden centre.

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SAFETY AND F IRST AID

If you think your kitten has swallowed something poisonous, quickly phone

the vet for advice. Be ready to explain in detail what has happened. Do not

do anything unless your vet has specifically told you to do so. If your kitten

has eaten something, it would be useful to take a sample or the container

with you to the vets.

As with humans, shock can be a major problem so try and keep an injured

cat as warm as possible with a blanket whilst taking it to the vets.

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TOILET TRAINING

Most cats are fastidious about cleanliness and most kittens are house-

trained by their mothers. But, it’s better to be safe than sorry! Here are some

handy hints on using litter trays:

• Place the litter tray in a quiet spot quite near to the kitten’s bed.

• If your kitten forgets to use the tray, a noise, such as a clap, will stopyour kitten in its tracks giving you the opportunity to carry it to the tray.

• Do not punish your kitten if it has a little ‘accident’ it will not understand.

• Avoid using strong smelling disinfectants to clean the tray.

• Do not do anything to your kitten that it would find disagreeable while itis in the litter tray.

• If you change the brand of litter, change it gradually over a 5-day period.

• Notify your vet of any ongoing problems - persistent house-soiling overlong periods of time can be very difficult to overcome.

• Unless you intend to use your cat for breeding, neuter them soon afterthey reach 6 months old.

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DISCIPLINE & IDENTIF ICATION

As a rule, cats are far more independent than dogs. As a cat owner yourself,you like many others, may find this independence more appealing.

You can however train your cat not to do certain things, such as scratchingthe furniture, climbing on kitchen surfaces, eating house plants etc.

If you are experiencing behaviour problems, try using a spray bottle filled withwater. Try not to let your cat see you when doing this, otherwise they couldassociate you with the unpleasantness, rather than the activity. This way, onlytheir feelings are hurt and no physical damage is done.

You could also try throwing something near to your cat to startle it, such as abunch of keys. Again, make sure they cannot see you.

If your cat has taken a liking to nibbling on your houseplants, try spraying thefoliage with diluted lemon juice.

Your vet or an animal behaviourist can help with any ongoing problematicbehaviour.

Once your kitten has had the necessary vaccinations, you may decide thatit’s time to let it venture outdoors. Cats however do like to explore and cancover very large areas in short periods of time. Clearly it would be devastatingif your cat should stray, get lost or even worse be involved in an accident.

It is therefore very important that you can be contacted if your cat is found orin an emergency.

There are many different ways that you can identify your pet, from microchipsand tattoos or if you prefer something less invasive, pet discs or tags.

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INSURANCE

No matter how careful the owner, cats do have accidents and they do

become ill. Each year one in three pets need veterinary treatment.

With continued improvements in veterinary science, vets are able to offer far

more sophisticated treatment than in the past. Great for the pet and owner,

as successful treatment is more likely, but not so great for the owner’s wallet!

Vet’s fees are increasing at over 10% per annum. More and more, the bill

comes as an unwelcome surprise to owners, particularly if treatment is

ongoing for a period of time or an operation is required. Nowadays, it is not

unusual for the total cost to reach thousands of pounds!

Most people could not afford this kind of outlay on their own and no-one

would want to be faced with having to make a decision on whether or not a

treatment can be undertaken because of the cost.

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INSURANCE

The only real answer is insurance. It is important to insure your kitten as soon

as possible.

Most insurance policies are fairly comprehensive in the cover they offer. It is

important to ensure that you are covered for a reasonable amount of vets

fees, at least £1500. As a rule, the higher the vet’s fees limit, the higher the

premium.

Often, there are many other areas of cover, including death or theft and

straying so that should the unthinkable happen you could replace your pet.

Insurance may not be one of the most exciting things about owning a kitten,

but as a responsible cat owner it’s certainly one of the most important.

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THE CAT BREEDERS ASSOCIATION

The Cat Breeders Association Limited is dedicated to the promotion of cat

welfare and responsible cat ownership, via education and by offering services

which benefit animal welfare, to breeders and owners alike.

We hope you have found this booklet useful. If you have any comments or

suggestions for future re-prints please feel free to send them to:

The Cat Breeders Association Ltd., P.O. Box 100, York, YO26 9SZ.

While every care has been taken to ensure that the information detailed in

this booklet is accurate, neither the publisher nor The Cat Breeders

Association Ltd can accept responsibility for any omissions or inaccuracies

appearing or for any consequences arising there from.

Copyright: The Cat Breeders Association Ltd. All rights reserved.

Published by: Thorpe Underwood Services Ltd.,

P.O. Box 100, York, YO26 9SZ.

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PERSONAL DETAILS

Vet’s name & address:

Vet’s tel. no.

Vaccination details:

Date: Details:

Worming details:

Date: Details:

THE CAT BREEDERS ASSOCIATION

THE CAT BREEDERS ASSOCIATION