F O OT W E A R N E W S .C O M / S E P T E M B E R 5 , 2 0 1 6 / @ F O OT W E A R N E W S

THE SNEAKER ISSUE

Fabolous and 17 other infl uencers on the boonsand busts of collecting the hottest sneakers in the game. Here, the artist gives Saucony’s Grid 9000 a spin.

FAB LIFE THE

SNEAK PEEKSWhere the sneaker biz needs to go next

FRONT & CENTERPatrick Ewing talks famous foes, fast cars and why his revived brand is a slam dunk

WEATHER PATTERNSHow one boundary-pushing labelplans to storm theathleisure market

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9Luxurious runner silhouettes from Giuseppe Zanotti and Valentino

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INSIDER

9 Why Kicks Still Rule Industry players predict the sneaker boom is here to stay. What’s fueling the heat?

13 FN Spy Luxury designers sound off on their favorite sneaks to kick back in, and Andrew Wiggins holds court in New York.

14 The New Payless Plan Why the company is opening some huge new doors and scaling back on other locations.

15 What’s Trending Family retailers under pressure amid tough economy, and Golden Goose faces critics over sneakers.

FEATURES

16 Collector Issues Candid commentary from sneaker lovers about what’s working — and what’s not — in the industry.

THE LIST

25 Shoe of the Week Teyana Taylor offers up a female-focused spin on the Reebok Question Mid.

26 Good Taste NBA legend Patrick Ewing reveals his on-court rivalries and the secret to selling shoes.

27 Retro Ride For the Fila brand, history is proving to be a strong driver for its future.

28 Got Sole? The hottest kicks ruled at the Solexchange Sneaker Convention.

30 Favorable Forecast How Clear Weather is finding its way in the competitive marketplace.

30 Five Questions Eytys co-founder Max Schiller talks spring inspirations and future store openings.

32 As Good As Gold Step inside Barcelona’s hottest sneaker destination.

FN PICK

34 Ivy’s League Like her mom, Beyoncé, 4-year-old Blue Ivy Carter turned heads at the 2016 MTV Video Music Awards.

ON THE COVER Photographed by ANNIE TRITT

On Fabolous: Andrea Pompilio jacket, John Elliot T-shirt, Fabo-lous x Vintage Frames sunglasses

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CRITICS SLAM GOLDEN GOOSE FOR ITS PRICEY, WORN-IN-LOOKING KICKSLuxury pre-distressed sneaker brand Golden Goose caught some heat on social media last week for what some were calling “poverty appropriation” in selling Italian-made shoes with faux scuff ed suede, duct-tape reinforcements and ripped laces for $585.

YEEZY BOOST 350S FOR INFANTS AND TODDLERS MAKE A SPLASHIn less than two hours, Kanye West’s Yeezy Boost 350s for toddlers and infants sold out on Adidas.com. The sneakers were off ered in the Turtledove and Pirate Black colorways in sizes 5k-10k and priced at $130.

MTV’S VIDEO MUSIC AWARDS WEREA HIT — AT LEAST ON THE WEBWhile the 2016 MTV Video Music Awards saw a 34 percent decrease in television ratings from last year to 6.5 million viewers, the show garnered 149 million streams of VMA content online Sunday and Monday. Among the best shoe moments of the night: when hip-hop artist Future sported metallic Balenciaga sneakers during his performance.

8 HIGH-TECH IDEAS THAT ARE CHANGING THE WORLDExtensive consumer data has helped brands in curation and customization, making them better than ever before. Augmented reality, 3-D printing and other technologies are available to fi nd out how styles will look and feel on consumers. “We are in the golden age of innovation in footwear right now,” said Matt Powell, sports industry analyst at The NPD Group.

THE MOST-SEARCHED BACK-TO-SCHOOL SHOE IS …Birkenstock has staying power among teens, according to Google. From June to July 20, interest in the brand went up 46 percent, according to Think With Google. The 230-year-old German shoe company has always had a core following, but it’s now become popular among a more trend-driven crowd, as Drew Barrymore, Kate Hudson and Leonardo DiCaprio have recently been spotted wearing the line.

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The most-read stories on Footwearnews.com last week.

TRAFFIC REPORT.com

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Michael Atmore Editorial Director

Neil Weilheimer Managing EditorKatie Abel Global News DirectorElizabeth Slott Design Director

Mosha Lundström Halbert Fashion DirectorJennie Bell Features Editor

Eugenia Richman Digital DirectorBarbara Schneider-Levy Senior Editor, Men’s & Comfort

Sumana Ghosh-Witherspoon Senior DesignerKristen Henning Women’s Editor

Chris M. Junior Copy EditorPeter Verry Athletic & Outdoor Editor

Sheena Butler-Young Senior Associate Editor, BusinessCharlie Carballo West Coast Digital Editor

Margaret Sutherlin Associate Editor Christian Allaire Associate Fashion Editor, High-End Men’s

Rachael Allen Associate Web ProducerNikara Johns Associate Editor

Erin E. Clack Contributing Editor, Children’s

CORRESPONDENTSSamantha Conti, Natalie Theodosi London

Miles Socha ParisLuisa Zargani Milan Amanda Kaiser Hong Kong

PHOTOGRAPHY/VIDEO

Ash Barhamand Photo DirectorOona Wally Bookings & Production Editor

Emily Taylor Photo Studio Coordinator George Chinsee, Thomas Iannaccone Photographers

Leah Jubara Video Producer & Editor

ADVERTISINGSandi Mines Vice President & Publisher

Lauren Schor Associate PublisherMichelle Raskin West Coast DirectorMichele Loffman Account Director

Gina Stillman Senior Account ManagerLauren Hill Digital Account Manager

Giulia Squeri European Account Director Gomatie Sanichar Office Manager

Emanuela Altimani Senior Sales CoordinatorElizabeth Carcich Sales Coordinator

DIGITAL/MARKETING/CREATIVE SERVICES

Stephanie Siegel Director of Integrated MarketingCass Spencer Creative Director, Marketing

Suzette Minetti Digital Sales Planner

AUDIENCE MARKETINGEllen Dealy Vice President & Senior Executive Director

Peggy Pyle Consumer Marketing DirectorJanet Menaker Senior Director,

Digital Marketing & Strategic DevelopmentRandi Segal Senior Director, Institutional Sales

Suzanne Berardi Senior Online Manager Tamra Febesh Senior Marketing Manager

Lauren Busch Associate Marketing Manager

PRODUCTIONKevin Hurley Production DirectorJohn Cross Production Manager

PREPRESS PRODUCTION

Alex Sharfman Digital Imaging David Lee Chin Prepress Assembly

SUMMITS & EVENTS

Amber Mundinger Vice President, New Ventures & GMMary Ann Bacher Executive Editorial DirectorAmelia Ewert Director, Experiential Marketing

Kim Mancuso Director, Attendee SalesAlexis Coyle Director, Sponsorship

FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING LLC

Michael Atmore Editorial Director of FN & Director of Brand Development

Ron Wilson Director, European Operations

FAIRCHILD MEDIA AND FN ARE OWNED AND PUBLISHED BY PENSKE MEDIA CORPORATION

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I N S I D E R

Clockwise from top left: Reebok, Adidas, Creative Recreation, Nike

W H Y K I C K S

ST I L L R U L E

The sneaker market is firing on all cylinders. A look at what’s driving the heat and the opportunities ahead. By Peter Verry and Christian Allaire

ow does legendary sneaker designer Jeff Staple sum up the athletic revolution?

“If I looked at my father’s shoe assortment, he’d have six or seven

brown shoes and three or four sneakers — for a sporting activity and to kick around in,” said Staple, the founder and creative director of Staple Designs. “Fast forward to a father today, and he’s probably got eight sneakers and two dress shoes.”

There’s no question that sneakers have taken over the fashion limelight — and if you think they’ll start to fade soon, think again.

There are myriad factors fueling momentum today, including celebrity-powered collections that are driving new customers, cool collaborations between designers and retailers, and a growing crop of social media influencers sparking excite-ment like never before. “I don’t think it’s ever going to end, especially now with the athleisure trend. Even on the runway, it’s pretty strong,” said James Hansen, director of design for Creative Recreation, about the kicks craze.

Brands and influencers agree: Sneakers are here to stay. What will change, however, are the silhou-ettes of the time, technologies brands will employ and the influencers who dictate what styles are must-haves.

Athletic and Athleisure Experts presume that the growing trend of wearing sneakers in all settings — from the gym to the office, from the park to the bar — will keep consumers buying them for years to come.

According to Staple, the acceptance stems from the desire for comfort, and he added that having a closet filled with sneakers is more common today — which will keep registers overflowing. “It’s not so strange for people to own 10 to 20 pairs of shoes, whereas not too long ago, owning that many shoes that are all wearable at the same time was extravagant,” he said.

But what styles consume closets in the not-so-distant future is debatable. Retro silhouettes — including running, court and basketball — have become the go-to looks for extended periods of time. However, insiders have differing views on how long retro will remain popular.

Treis Hill, GM of Alife, believes that innovation — not nostalgia — will drive consumers to stores. “Nike had innovation with the Air Max 1, Air Max 90, Air Max 95 and so on,” Hill said, “[but] after 2000, you had this lull with nothing iconic. So they got into retro. [Now] the consumer is bored with that.”

As Nike continues to bank on retro styles that have been in the market for years, Adidas is having success with more modern looks that are pushing the brand to the forefront.

“Adidas has new styles like the NMD, Ultra Boost, Yeezy — the new Air Max 90s, if you will,” said Hill. “We’ll look back in 15 years and say, ‘These are classic shoes.’ ”

Staple agrees that future-driven looks will become the new traffic driver in retail. Plus, there’s only so much retro product available. “There’s no question retros work — people like the nostalgia,” he said.

“[But] if your strategy is retro, even something like [Air] Jordan with 30-plus styles, if you rereleased a Jordan every week in 30 weeks, you’d be done. [And] once a week is not enough, so you’ve got to keep adding stuff, and that’s where innovation needs to happen — new styles and technology.”

However, Matt Powell, global sports industry analyst with The NPD Group, is steadfast on his assertion that retro isn’t going away anytime soon. “There are so many shoes in the vault that brands can bring back, so many greats,” he said. “This retro trend is broad-based, it’s not just basketball — it’s retro running, fitness and tennis that are also performing at a high level. The shoes we’re seeing today as the hottest in retro won’t be in three years, but the cycle can continue.”

What is changing are the people who are influencing what the public buys. “We came out of this era where [athletes such as] Bo Jackson, Andre Agassi, Michael

Adidas Originals’ NYC flagship-inspired “Red Apple” NMD_R1 PK is reselling for $2,500.10

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sneakers

Fetty WapWearing the Adidas Crazy Explosive at the Adidas Athletics NYC unveil.

HOT KICKS WHAT RULED LAST WEEK

Kanye WestWalking the New York streets in an unreleased Adidas Yeezy Boost silhouette.

Serena Williams At the U.S. Open in the Nike-Court Flare from the Unlimited NYC collection.

“The retro trend is broad-based, it’s not just basketball — it’s retro running, fitness and tennis that are also performing at a high level.” — Matt Powell, NPD Group

Foot Locker on Aug. 30 opened its new NYC flagship on 34th Street.12 I N S I D E R

Chang [and] Michael Jordan were influencing what we were buying,” Staple said. “Now it’s an era of celebrities, a lot of them musicians. Sneaker companies are signing music acts as if they were record labels.”

Adidas partner Kanye West is the highest-profile rapper to be aligned with a brand, but he isn’t the only music megastar in the shoe game — Reebok has Kendrick Lamar and Future, and Puma has teamed up with Meek Mill and Rihanna.

While consumers are still making purchases, some players in the footwear industry believe the amount of pickups and the prices they’ll pay will change drastically.

“Millennials value experience — going out to eat, going on vacation,” Hansen said. “They’re not spending as much money on things like shoes as previous generations did.”

As far as target audiences, that’s also undergoing a transitional phase, according to Powell. “We will see the brands continue to focus on women, and retailers as well,” he said. “More brands are making women’s-specific shoes as opposed to sizing down men’s. I don’t know that [we’ll] ever get to 50-50 — she’s buying boys’ shoes because they’re less expensive and can get styles unavailable for women, and she will continue to have a broader range of choices beyond athletic. There’s no question the biggest wearer segment- gainer over the next five years will be women.”

Designer Realm As traditional athletic brands bet on a bright future, high-end players are also capitalizing on the sneaker craze. “The boom will last for a long time, as it’s constantly adapting itself to market preferences,” said Louis Leeman, founder and designer of his men’s line. “The sneaker category has become so large that we see great develop-ment in the styling and numerous trends emerging each season,” added Bruce Pask, men’s fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman, which recently expanded its men’s space. “It feels like there is no end in sight for the continuing evolution.”

“Sneakers have become a part of every guy’s everyday wardrobe now,”

said Sam Lobban, buying manager for Mr. Porter. “In regards to more fashion statement examples, this will always ebb and flow with a design-er’s overall aesthetic, but commercial sneakers will continue to be super-important.”

Pask cited best-selling sneaker styles from Common Projects and Lanvin, which are known for their sleek and minimal silhouettes. “We’re seeing great interest in a more streamlined silhouette — a cleaner, simpler sneaker with the low-top a leading silhouette,” he said. “Fine craftsmanship has also entered the category in brands like Berluti, Hender Scheme and Feit with their vegetable-dyed leathers and hand-finishing.”

Leeman has noticed a consumer shift toward his simpler styles as well. “In the more recent seasons, we saw strong demand for plain low-tops and slip-ons,” he said. “Seasons ago, the focus was more on richly accessorized high-tops.” But while heritage brands including Berluti and Salvatore Ferragamo continue to ramp up their sneaker offering, not everyone is on board.

Matthew Chevallard, founder and designer of Del Toro, said the luxury market has been flooded with too many outside players. “The boom itself has hit a ceiling. It went from being undersaturated to oversatu-rated quite quickly,” he said. “It will always be relevant, but I don’t think every brand needs to be doing it — only those where it fits with their DNA and demographic. Those classic shoe purveyors should probably stick to what they do best.”

As the market shifts, high-end trends will also evolve. Lobban said a designer sneaker is no longer enough for consumers, and that brands are now offering many different styles, from sporty to more retro.

“We’ve reached the point where this is no longer one clear trend within the sneaker category,” he said. “Designers are showing and produc-ing different products — whether that’s ’70s retro runners, the skate-shoe trend that doesn’t seem to be disappearing, or the more technical styles such as Nike’s Flyknit technology.”

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As the subscription commerce business continues to burgeon, three children’s fashion players — Kidpik, Runchkins and FabKids — are setting themselves apart.

Launched in February, Kidpik is the brainchild of Ezra Dabah, who is leveraging his industry expertise as CEO of Nina Footwear Corp. and the former chairman and CEO of The Children’s Place. Dabah’s site, which is dedicated to girls, allows custom-ers to sign up to receive a curated box of fashion pieces as often as every month. “Subscription com-merce, or push commerce as we call it, is totally new and different from the normal retail we know,” Dabah said. “We saw an opportunity to do something specific for kids.”

Kidpik’s customers complete a style quiz, and the brand’s team of stylists, guided by an algorithm, assembles a personalized assort-ment for the child. Each box contains six or seven coordinated pieces, including mix-and-match separates and dresses, a pair of shoes and accessories such as jewelry, belts and headbands. “Not only is [this shopping model] convenient for moms, but there is an excitement and an emotional experience for the girl when she receives the box in the mail because it’s wrapped like a gift and personalized to her,” Dabah explained, noting that customers are flocking to social media to share “unboxing” photos and videos.

Unlike Kidpik, which designs its own merchandise, newcomer Runchkins, whose site went live in March, offers a constantly changing

Kids’ Players Tap Into Subscription Site CrazeThe model’s popularity is on the rise across the fashion industry. By Erin E. Clack

mix of name-brand pieces sourced from around the world, including footwear collections such as Old Soles and Shoo Shoos. Founder and CEO Jeff Cheng said the element of discovery is a big part of the appeal of subscription boxes. “Parents are busy these days, and they don’t have time to hunt and shop all over for different brands and products to try,” he said. “We do that for them.”

Before a box is shipped out, Runchkins emails a preview with pictures of all the pieces, giving customers an opportunity to tweak their box selection. “You can switch out anything you don’t like or give us more direction,” Cheng explained. “It gives the customer more control.” When kids outgrow their clothes and shoes, they can be returned to Runchkins for store credit (between 15 percent and 30 percent of the original purchase price) under the company’s guaranteed buyback service. For customers looking for more affordable options, Runchkins plans to eventually offer boxes featuring gently worn merchandise that is returned.

FabKids, one of the early entrants in the kids’ subscription fashion space, added footwear to its offering in 2014. Maggie Dawkins, VP of merchandising and produc-tion for the JustFab Inc.-owned company, said the category has been a big hit with customers because it provides even greater convenience. “Anytime a mom can get everything she needs in one click, it’s a win,” she said. “Shoes are one of those tricky categories: It’s hard to find brands that offer a broad assortment of both staples and fashion [looks]. Nearly half our VIP member orders include shoes, and we continue to grow this category.” FabKids’ assortment is updated monthly, with looks offered across different fashion categories, among them boho chic and classic.

A look from FabKids

13I N S I D E RSefolosha said that when he’s off the court, he’ll often wear Christian Louboutin.

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Spy catches up with creative forces in the industry to talk topathletic brands and the pairs they have their eye on next.

Chris Benz, creative director, Bill BlassFavorite sneakers: “Vans all-white Old Skool laceups, because they’re the ultimate summer sneaker.”Next purchase: “Golden Goose, because they always feel special and unique.”

Ivy KirzhnerFavorite sneakers: “I’m kind of obsessed with Onitsuka Tiger by Asics sneakers as an ’80s throwback. Shows like Netflix’s ‘Stranger Things’ and the sudden influx of colors and silhouettes are ushering in this movement that is, at the same time, wonderfully nostalgic and forward-thinking.” Next purchase: “It’s an oldie, but a goodie: the Reebok Princess, first issued in 1983. Reebok is going through somewhat of a revival right now, so I love that these shoes go with everything that is on trend today, but that they’re classically American.”

Jerome RousseauFavorite sneakers: “At the moment, my color-blocked Vans 50th SK8-Hi 38 reissue, which don’t go with any outfit I wear. That’s why I wear them every day. And that’s a tie with the reinvented Vans checkerboard slip-on Lite. I love how they’ve taken that iconic shoe and updated it with the featherweight sole and upper components.” Next purchase: “I love the signature 100mm Buscemi sneaker in tan leather. It’s chic and casual at the same time, and I’d dress it up or down.”

Theresa Ebagua, creative director, Chelsea ParisFavorite sneakers: “My go-to sneakers of the moment are my Puma x Rihanna ‘Fenty’ sneakers. They’re comfortable and stylish — perfect for when I’m in a rush.”Next purchase: “I have my eyes set on these Dolce & Gabbana embellished espadrille sneakers. I love their fun embellishment and how easy they slip on. I first saw them in Florence and I fell in love.”

Sneak AttackFind out what labels designers are coveting.

That’s a RapSnapchat king DJ Khaled is making the most of his timein the spotlight. To wrap up August, the music mogul hosted the MTV VMAs preshow and also appearedat Jimmy Jazz and House of Hoops in New York City. The hip-hop star also visited Footwear News for an exclusive photo shoot.After capturing some stellar photos, the flower-obsessed star appeared on “Late Night with Seth Meyers” on Aug. 31, wearing one of the looks from the shoot, which included a pair of the iconic 6-inch Timberland workboots in black — a staple in the rap world.

High CourtAtlanta Hawks shooting guard Thabo Sefolosha is courting a new wave of fans. This time, it’s a fashion crowd that’s been flocking to his new high-end menswear boutique, Attom, at The Shops Buckhead Atlanta. The store puts a focus on luxury sneakers from brands including Rick Owens, Balenciaga, Versace and Kris Van Asche. According to Sefolosha, he owns about 200 pairs of shoes, opting for performance kicks from Nike, with Air Max among his favorites. “I grew up wearing Air Max,” said Sefolosha.

By Kristen Henning With contributions from FN Staff

The Right Track Tori Bowie is still riding the Rio high. The track and field superstar just raced on the biggest stage at the 2016 Summer Olympics, taking home three medals, including a gold for the women’s 4x100-meter relay. “Every-thing has been such a celebration since I’ve been back,” Bowie told Spy. She was on hand in New York to help unveil the new Adidas

Athletics collection. “The [games] were such

a dream come true, but I’m not done

yet,” Bowie said. “It’s a challenge for me. I

showed up and came home with three, and

[at] the next one, I want to come home with more

gold. That’s the next challenge.”

DJ Khaled, French Montana, Sean “Diddy” Combs

Living the Three-Stripe LifeAfter two seasons in selections from Adidas’ Crazylight franchise, rising NBA star Andrew Wiggins will now wear the brand’s new performance shoe, the Crazy Explosive. “This is the most comfortable shoe I’ve put on from Adidas,” the Minnesota Timberwolves guard-forward said. “I enjoy the colorways, comfort level and stability.” Off the court, Wiggins switches his three-stripe looks up. “[I wear] Yeezys or NMDs,” he said. “Sometimes some shell-toes [Superstar] — I switch it up.”

Thabo Sefolosha

Tori Bowie

Andrew Wiggins

Ebagua

Benz Kirzhner

Rousseau

ayless ShoeSource Inc. is putting the finishing touches on a new master plan.

Elements of the blueprint include a ramped-up approach to omnichannel

and accelerated expansion in global markets, but according to Neil Hansen, division senior vice presi-dent of store development at Payless, the company’s ace in the hole is a revamped real estate strategy in the North American market.

“We asked our customer the biggest reason behind her decision to shop [at a particular shoe store], and [she said that] the important things to her were finding a breadth of assortment — she likes lots of options — and having the styles in her size,” explained Hansen.

The first Payless Super Store — a larger and more-stocked build-out with an added focus on experience — launched in Novem-ber 2012 to address the evolving needs of its core customer. Fueled by positive feedback, the num-ber of super stores has quickly climbed to more than 60, and Hansen said Payless will double that number within the next five years.

But the growth will not come without casualties.Payless — which went private in 2012 after 16

years as a publicly traded firm — plans to close between 350 and 500 stores within the next three years, according to Hansen. Escalating rents have topped the list of challenges for many retailers who have shuttered doors in recent months, but Payless CEO Paul Jones said the company’s resolve to close several hundred stores is a proactive one.

“High rental costs haven’t impacted us as much in terms of putting pressure on company sales or driving pricing changes,” Jones said. “But it does make us look a little harder at profitability at the store level. Stores have to be more productive now to remain viable locations in our portfolio, or rent rates have to be more competitive for us to remain in a particular location.”

Hansen also noted that since the company has 4,400 stores in more than 30 countries, it has some flexibility with store closures and can relocate some

employees in order to minimize layoffs.“We’re actually very nimble in regards to our

store positioning,” he said. “We have a number of stores that are smaller, so it’s not like a Macy’s, where it’s a big deal to close a store. We are able to relocate [stores] as the customer shifts their focus of where they’re shopping — we’re able to be fairly disciplined on that.” (Macy’s Inc. announced last month its plans to close 100 stores, in addition to the 40 doors it closed earlier in the year).

Perhaps the most notable consumer shift of late has been toward e-commerce, and Payless manage-ment said it is also making aggressive moves in

that realm — although Jones admit-ted there is some work to be done. “I recognize that we have to deliver omnichannel capabilities with a sense of urgency,” he said. “Almost every IT capital project underway at Payless relates to some sort of capability that the project will unlock for us.”

Among the retailer’s efforts to ramp up its digital presence is a plan to roll out a buy online/pick up in store feature, Hansen noted. “We’re

not there yet,” he said, “but we continue to grow handsomely with regard to [omnichannel], and it continues to be a major strategic initiative.”

In the meantime, super stores continue to drive customers into Payless’ brick-and-mortar spaces and also provide an avenue for global growth. The com-pany has opened super stores in Costa Rica and in the Dominican Republic, adding to its more than 800 total doors outside North America. (Payless also has three super stores in Canada.) “We’ve had a positive response,” Hansen said. “We categorize [their success] in terms of the four levers: traffic, conversion, num-ber of units purchased and average retail.”

In cases where the company has shuttered a standard location and replaced it with a superstore within the same retail center, Hansen said it uses those four levers to compare and determine the overall sales lift accomplished via the new super store.

“We have seen a lift in traffic, conversion and the number of units [customers] buy,” Hansen explained.

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14 I N S I D E R The retailer continues to work with ready-to-wear designer Christian Siriano.

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Inside the chain’s no-nonsense store strategy. By Sheena Butler-Young

The Payless PlanFarla Efros, president of HRC Advisory

On omnichannel goals: “This is a critical piece for any organization, and it [relates to] consum-ers’ desire for instant gratification — particularly buy online/pick up in store. Payless is a bit behind compared with some of their competition when it comes to [launching that], but it’s not an easy transition, offering buy online/pick up in store — there’s a lot of logistical issues that go into it.” On the Payless Super Store concept: “This ties nicely into where millennials and Generation Z as well as their parents are going and [the kinds of things] they’re looking for. This concept is going to give Payless some competitiveness with the DSWs of the world.” On plans to expand internationally: “I’m always a bit cautionary on international expansion. You’ve got to fix your North American business first before you start to expand internation-ally because sometimes [global business] can become a distraction.” On store closures: “They’re being pretty strategic. The stores that Payless is closing will [probably] pay for the [super stores] that they’re going to open.”

Jeff Van Sinderen, senior analyst with B. Riley & Co. LLC

On the Payless Super Store concept: “I would approach that with some healthy skepticism — most retailers need smaller stores and bigger omnichannel where e-commerce can function as an ‘endless aisle.’ It may work in some cases, but I would be concerned about the incremental occupancy expense of bigger stores.” On omnichannel goals: “Investing in digital capabilities is a critical and ongoing necessity. Strong digital can drive traffic, conversion and incremental purchases. The consumer often browses online before heading to a store and, in many cases, they make purchases online that they pick up in store to avoid shipping fees and lag times. Many retailers have a high attach rate for incremental purchases associated with [buy online/pick up in store].” On planned store closures: “The U.S. is the most over-stored of any market right now — closing a few hundred stores is a good start for Payless.”

Will It Work?Retail experts give their take on Payless’ new strategy.

“We’re actually very nimble

in regards to our store

positioning.”Neil Hansen

Famous Footwear, Shoe Carnival, Journeys and DSW are the latest shoe retailers to fall victim to tepid consumer spending and the rise of the “buy now, wear now” mentality. Last week, the stores all missed Wall Street expectations for quarterly earnings. During the all-important back-to-school season, sales were especially thrown

off, as more shoppers hit stores later than usual and were buying almost exclusively in-season product.

Famous Footwear said that while comps were down for the quarter, August traffic had picked up. Journeys, owned by Genesco Inc., said comps dropped 4 percent and results were bleeding into Q3.

DSW’s comps also were down, and its seasonal business — including sandals — was challenged. Retailers have faced rising inventory levels and have been forced to cut prices and margins to move product.

Adidas Signs MLB Hopeful Tim TebowAdidas inked a new deal with former NFL quarterback and current collegiate football analyst Tim Tebow. The 2007 Heisman Trophy winner received mixed reviews on the field as he worked out for Major League Baseball scouts, but experts said Adidas got something as big as performance: buzz. “He’s a bit of a novelty act,” said Bob Dorfman, creative director of Baker Street Advertising. “[Baseball] teams are interested in him because they can sell tickets.”

Golden Goose Takes Heat Over Kicks Luxury brand Golden Goose was slammed by sneakerheads last week for selling a $585 “pre-distressed” shoe at Barneys and other retailers. The Superstar style came with duct tape, scuffed suede and ripped laces as part of the overall look; fans accused Golden Goose of “poverty appropriation.” The brand, which specializes in distressed details on its sneakers, has since removed the style under fire from the Barneys website.

Family Stores Struggle

QUOTES OF THE WEEKOverheard in the industry

“I remember thinking that those comments weren’t consistent with the other things I’ve heard. There is a lot of energy and momentum behind this.” Steve Lamar, EVP of AAFA, in response to comments by German Vice Chancellor Sigmar Gabriel that the Trans-Atlantic Trade and Investment Partnership had failed.

“My role models are artist-merchants: Truman, Ford, Hughes, Disney, Jobs, West.” Kanye West in a speech at the 2016 MTV Video Music Awards.

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INSTAGRAMS OF THE WEEKThe 5 most-liked photos from @FootwearNews

Spotted: @kendalljenner in @31phil-liplim crushed velvet boots in L.A.

Rainbow shoes on set.

Follow us on Snapchat & Insta Stories today to see who is on set with us.

@drawbertson hand paints @valentin-acarranoofficial booties just for FN.

Blue Ivy at #VMAs in her pink @giuseppezanottidesign kicks.

“I’m rocking the same shoe as Andrew Wiggins this season: the Crazy Explosive. They feel like sex on the feet. That’s as good as it gets.” New York Knicks player Joakim Noah discussing his on-court sneakers.

Tim TebowGolden Goose Distressed Superstar

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15I N S I D E RThe infant/toddler Yeezy Boost 350 sneakers by Adidas Originals sold out within two hours online.

COLLECTOR

FABOLOUSHip-hop artist“The re-popping, it’s out of control. It changes the experience for the regular consumer. It used to be track down the shoe, purchase it at box price and put it on. Kids are now working three weeks to a month to get a shoe that shouldn’t be that [elevated] in cost. It’s Jordans, Yeezys — anything that’s popular. Even Adidas Originals NMDs are starting to get that chase. I don’t know the solution; just give kids the chance to buy the shoes. When Kanye West fi rst put his shoes out, he said he [wanted] everybody to have a chance to have quality. But when they came, it was the same re-pops, same markups, and Adidas didn’t do anything about it. It’s fun for the hype when you’ve got to pay $2,000 for a $200 sneaker, but [it’s hurting] the average consumer.”

Sneaker lovers often tell it like it is. And when FN asked 18 passionate infl uencers to weigh in on the ups and downs of the ever-changing business, it’s no surprisethey didn’t hold back.Compiled by Peter Verry & Jennie Bell

16

PHOTO: ANNIE TRITT; FASHION DIRECTOR: MOSHA LUNDSTRÖM HALBERT; GROOMER: KEN SLIM; SHOES PROVIDED BY BRANDS, EXTRA BUTTER, WEST NYC

ISSUESFabolous wears the Converse Larry Bird Weapon Retro sneakers

SUSAN BOYLE Owner, Rime“The resale game is the worst. Kids who want to wear sneakers are not getting the product. When the Rihanna slide came in, we had a million guys on line, like, ‘I’m buying them for my girlfriend,’ and you knew some weren’t. The pink ones were going for, like, $300, for an $80 shoe — it’s a slide, it’s not even a Jordan. I did something radical for the second Rihanna release. I did a girl’s-only line from 9 a.m. to 12 p.m. — I made sure my girls got them. I told the guys if you could fit in that shoe like Cinderella, by all means, you could get on line.”

HENRY FRANÇOISSneaker collector

“The lack of consumer originality bothers me. Social media is a gift and a curse — you can stay up on upcoming releases; however, you have some who watch social media to see which sneakers get the most likes to decide on their next purchase. I’m in my late 20s, so I didn’t grow up with social media. People used to make purchases based on what they liked. And you wanted to be different. If so-and-so had Jordans, then you’d get the Barkleys. I don’t have a problem with people wanting hot sneakers as long as they genuinely like the sneakers and not just the ‘likes.’ ”

STATIK SELEKTAH Producer, DJ & radio host “Brands don’t make enough gen-eral releases to get fly. The puppet masters know how to limit things so the average person can’t get shoes without spending stupid money. Brands could put more general releases out there. Sneaker stores [mess] up the game, too — they do raffles, but a lot of times, they hook up their boys first so regular kids don’t have a chance to get sneakers. Brands need to penalize people when they find out stores are doing foul things. People are just greedy; it wasn’t like that back in the day.”

MAYOR Sneaker expert“The word sneakerhead both-ers me; it’s negative. Growing up in the Bronx, surviving the drug era, I hate the word ‘head.’ If you’re a crackhead, you’re addicted to crack; if you’re a cokehead, you’re addicted to coke — [but] if you’re a sneak-erhead, you’re not addicted to sneakers. If I had to pay for my mortgages or sneakers, I’m go-ing to pay my mortgages. Why can’t I be a sneaker connois-seur? A sneaker enthusiast? I’m one of the biggest sneaker collectors in the world and could make $200,000 a year hosting sneaker shows, but ‘sneakerhead’ is too generic. It stagnates my progress, it slows me down — don’t put me in a box.”

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!“The over-

saturation of the market has

transitioned sneaker culture

from being a niche of the inner city to the world at

large. While it probably serves

the sneaker business, I’m

not sure how it serves

true sneaker connoisseurs

or preserves the original

sneaker code.”Vashtie Kola,

Music video director & DJ

JAZERAI ALLEN-LORD Owner, God Bless the Fresh

“The biggest thing at this point is the ability to purchase. The market is so much bigger than it’s ever been, and yet the releases are so small. With the ‘Banned’ Air Jordan 1s, I’m not going to pay $1,000 for a pair, I’m not going to hunt down a reseller and authenticate a pair, I’m not going to try my luck at 15 different Foot Lock-ers — I probably just won’t have them. But if Jordan Brand released enough or at least 30 percent more than what they do, we wouldn’t be having these discussions. That bubble is going to pop because people are tired of it.”

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SOPHIA CHANG Illustrator & designer“People ask me what’s it like being a female designing sneakers. I’m like, why does it matter? Why can’t I just be a designer? Growing up in New York, sneaker culture wasn’t male-specific — granted, there were more interesting sneakers for men than women — but it wasn’t that big of a deal. Although, as a female shopper, it’s very difficult to find shoes that fit me. What I tell women who want to see more colorways and styles for females is to speak up. Use social media to tell brands what you want. There’s power in where your money goes.”

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DJ KHALEDRecord producer & DJ“I love sneakers; there’s no negatives in sneakers. I think everybody deserves them if you want them. If there’s a release and there’s one guy with 100 pairs but they’re sold out all over the world, you have to deal with the connect — these young kids turn into entrepreneurs. I think it’s a beautiful thing [that] this young generation can love sneakers and hustle sneakers instead of hustle drugs. [And] it’s inspiring knowing that I could have a conversation with any generation about a sneaker and we’re all on the same page because we love it the same way.”

! FACT:

The Jordan 11 Retro

Low Closing Ceremony was

the most popular style on the

resale market at press time.

StockX

Sales of U.S. athletic footwear

grew 8 percent in 2015 to total $17.2 billion.

The NPD Group Inc.

In just the month of August, 94 new sneaker

styles were released at Foot

Locker.Footlocker.com

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MARCUS TROY Blogger & brand ambassador

“The sneaker world is a business, and companies have to make a profit. You can be a purist and hate the fact that the quality of this new shoe is not what it was in the ’80s, but in footwear design, things change. If a supplier has a similar material that’s cheaper, that’s what it’s going to become. I know a lot of people are ticked off, but Nike, Jordan — they’re running a busi-ness. If you want to be part of the bottom line, then buy stock in the companies. I decided to invest in the companies that are profiting off what we love so much.”

MACHE Sneaker customizer“You can’t get what you want. When someone buys a whole size run and no one else gets a chance to buy them, that bothers me. Infant-size Yeezys just came out; people were going crazy for them, but most people bought to resell them. They were $130 infant shoes, and people scooped them up to resell. It puts a damper on things. Shoes aren’t cheap to begin with, and the [resale] markup is crazy. It’s easy to [tell brands to] make a bunch of shoes, but how do you keep them coveted? A happy medium would be great.”

CID “THE KICKS” MERISIER Sneaker collector

“The resale market is a huge problem. You have to camp out 24 to 48 hours before the release date if you really want your shoes. I have a job — I can’t go stand in front of a store for days to buy sneakers. A lot of people that camp out only do it to make money, not because they love the shoes. In the end, the real sneaker lovers don’t get the shoes because of the resellers.”

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DOMINIC “THE SHOE SURGEON” CHAMBRONE Sneaker customizer

“Customizers, make your shoes better. I remake the shoe the way a shoe is supposed to be made; I don’t just throw some stuff on top and call it a shoe. Some people take shortcuts: They will basically just put python on top and sew it on. I take the shoe completely apart, remake it with premium materials, and re-last it so it fits perfect to the foot like traditional shoemaking. People could buy one that’s messed up and become jaded. That’s why I’m starting to do classes, so people could do it the right way.” !

VADO Rapper

“Brands need to bring back more vintage sneakers from back in the day and renew them, that’s all. They need to bring back all of them — there’s a lot more that’s classic, a lot of the Nike Air Maxes. They need to turn back to the early Air Max time. And all the Deion Sanders Nike Air Diamond Turf, and all the Ken Griffeys Nike Air Griffey Max.”

JASON FAUSTINOCo-owner, Extra Butter

“What bothers me is how the sneaker industry has become very singular in its direction and overly trend-conscious. It’s a business response — meeting numbers and the needs of the masses — but leaders need to lead. Brands need to take risks that not only add excitement to the industry but ad-vance it. Being ‘daring’ seems like a thing of the past, with safe and easy becoming the norm. A combi-nation of discipline and bravery is in order from all parties, from the sneaker brands to the creatives at the shops — and the consumers.”

JOSH LUBERCEO & co-founder, StockX

“I love the sneaker industry. I love sneakers and the people and the businesses and the community. But I hate the lack of transpar-ency. There is almost no transpar-ency in the industry, starting with the brands that don’t disclose production numbers, all the way down to resellers trying to take advantage of imperfect informa-tion. I don’t fault those actors for what they do, but I look forward to them joining the middle, em-bracing the movement toward a more transparent industry: trans-parency of data, of process and of authenticity.”

SEPTEMBER’S MOST

ANTICIPATED SNEAKER

RELEASES:

Air Jordan 1 Retro High OG

“Banned”9/3/16

Air Jordan XXXI “Banned”

9/3/16

Adidas Originals

Tubular Doom PK

9/9/16

Adidas EQT Support 93/16 x

CNCPTS9/10/16

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BOBBITO GARCIA Radio personality & sneaker expert “I’ve been an evangelist for 10 years about supporting sneaker donations with nonprofits. There are a lot of people who have lots of shoes who aren’t wearing them and are never going to resell. They don’t have a little brother or son who’s going to wear them when they get older. Those shoes could be used in developing areas of the world, where kids play ball bare-foot on hot concrete. Everyone has the right to own all the sneakers they buy, but [donating] is some-thing people should consider.”

KAYCE KIRIHARAInfluencer & brand ambassador

“The thing that gets to me is the reselling and the people buying just to make money off it. I don’t want to sound like a hype beast, but I did want the Yeezys when they first came out. I knew the reselling was going to be crazy, but I didn’t think it would be as crazy as it is. That was the one shoe I was excited to see released and possibly get, but now I don’t want anything to do with them because everyone has them. Everyone wanted it because it was the cool thing on the internet, whereas I just liked the sneaker.”

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The colorway is inspired by the toe of the original Question Mid (and Taylor’s favorite color is red). 25

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S H O EO F T H EW E E K1

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QuestionAfter watching guys line up for the hottest sneakers, singer Teyana Taylor teamed with Reebok to create a sizzling look for women. The Question Mid Teyana T, featuring a luxe croc-embossed upper and A-1 Ice bottom, will debut on Oct. 7 in women’s sizes up to 14 (so men don’t have to feel left out).

Ewing was inducted into the Naismith Memorial Basketball Hall of Fame in 2008.26 T H E L I S T ATHLETIC

NBA icon Patrick Ewing hasn’t dominated in the paint since 2002, but people are still clamoring for his sneakers. While wearing No. 33 for the New York Knicks, the center parted ways with Adidas to launch his own label, Ewing Athletics, in 1989. The brand folded in 1996 after the release of its fi nal court-ready shoe, the Empire, but re-emerged in 2012 to revive the celebrated styles. “It means a lot to see people everywhere I go asking about the shoes and where to get them,” Ewing told Footwear News. “People say [centers] can’t sell [shoes], and I’m here to show that big people can sell — it’s about the product and the people working with you.” Although the former baller clearly enjoys being back with Ewing Athletics, his priority is coaching. As associate head coach of the Charlotte Hornets, he’s teaching the young, Kemba Walker-led squad a faster-paced game from the sidelines. And while basketball today isn’t as center-focused as it was in his heyday, Ewing believes he could hold his own on the hardwood. “I’d have a lot more shooting around me, so they wouldn’t be able to [double-team] as easy,” he said. “I’d still be dominant.”

GOOD TASTE

BEST PLACE TO EAT IN CHARLOTTE: “Fahrenheit — the view

is spectacular.”

MY PREGAME PLAYLIST: “Some Biggie, some

Buju and some Nas.”

2

PLAYERS I DREADED FACING: “Hakeem Olajuwon

and Shaquille O’Neal.”

TEAM I WANTED TO PLAY: “We had great rivalries

with the Miami Heat and Indiana Pacers.” P

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FAVORITE VACATION SPOT: “Back home

in Jamaica.”

GO-TO WHEELS: “Mercedes S65.”

Patrick Ewing The former NBA great continues to score with his on-court Ewing Athletics sneakers. By Peter Verry

ince 2013, when Fila began to focus heavily on its heritage business, the brand has grown exponentially — more

than 100 percent year-over-year — according Jon Epstein, president at Fila North America.

“The heritage category is a huge business driver for us right now. We have an opportunity to inspire a new generation of consumers,” he said, adding that the category has opened up prime retail channels such as Bloomingdale’s, Macy’s and Foot Locker.

Across the sneaker market, the retro trend is seeing an uptick, and experts predict there’s more runway ahead for the movement.

Matt Powell, sports industry analyst at The NPD Group Inc., said, “We are seeing the fashion cycles compress, but my gut is that retro can last a little longer because there is so much great product in the pipeline and the vaults of the brands. Companies are able to bring back fresh product over time, and that will extend the trend longer.”

Powell added, “This is the first time we aren’t seeing any growth in a performance category. Instead, the sportswear categories are primarily driven by retro.”

Fila has capitalized on the moment by telling the brand’s rich history through product. Popular footwear styles for the heritage group include the Original Fitness, the F-13

S

Fila’s “Game Over” pack dropped Sept. 2 and features the FX-100 and M-Squad silhouettes.

and the Original Tennis. “The product has to be relevant to

the market now and also have some DNA that goes back to tell the story of what Fila is as far as the style, sport and history that we have,” said Louis Colon, director of heritage and lifestyle product at Fila.

Another element of its success is a new tiered retail strategy that targets key boutiques, street accounts and chain stores such as DTLR, Foot Locker and Urban Outfitters.

For Fila, its merchandise plan is about creating balance within the brand and building an assortment that makes sense for each retailer.

“We want the product to be different and to be a refresher onthe wall for the retailer,” said Colon. “We don’t want the customer going into a mall and into the top three retailers and seeing the walls look P

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27T H E L I S TATHLETIC

exactly the same.”Fila’s heritage division has also

dedicated its attention to collabora-tions. In the past six months, the brand has partnered with retailer Alumni New York for the “Beef Patty” limited-edition sneaker and with rapper Nas and Sony Pictures for the “Ghostbusters” collection — which had a strong response from consumers.

Up next, the Staple x Fila cap-sule line is set to debut this month, featuring a range of apparel and footwear styles. And designer Gosha Rubchinskiy’s special Fila collec-tion, which debuted at Pitti Uomo in June, will hit Comme des Garçons

3

Fila is on a roll with its heritage collaborations and fine-tuned retail strategy. By Nikara Johns

Retro Ride

“Fila has always had [history] on

the footwear side, and the way the

team is managing that now is

probably the best ever.”

Packer Shoes owner Mike Packer

Fila’s “Game Over”FX-100 sneaker

locations worldwide in early 2017, consisting of a limited selection of menswear apparel and footwear.

Recent Fila collabs are opening up new territory, said Epstein: “We are creating demand from different types of consumers, and collaborations have provided us that access. We offer limited product runs to satisfy the consumer craving for something unique and to keep each new col-laboration in high demand.”

Colon added, “It’s more about making an impact, telling a story and making sure the product is quality and building an after-effect.”

In addition, the partnerships are influencing in-line product devel-opment, according to Colon, who explained that each special release presents an opportunity to experi-ment with new colors, materials and technologies.

He noted that by updating classic silhouettes with new treatments and fabrications, Fila will be able to keep pace in the marketplace. “We can stick to our DNA and apply this technology. That moves the needle for us and at a steady pace we need to grow,” Colon said.

One longtime retail partner, Mike Packer, owner of Packer Shoes in New Jersey, is confident that Fila’s retro push is headed in the right di-rection. “You can’t make up heritage,” Packer said. “You can’t make up history and pure classic design. Fila has always had that on the footwear side, and the way the team is manag-ing that now is probably the best ever within the last few years. [Its efforts] are showing not only through product creation but also with the sell-throughs.”

28 T H E L I S T

Spotted: A pair of the Supreme x Nike Air Foamposite One, currently selling for $900 at Flight Club. 29ATHLETIC T H E L I S T

Got Sole?The hottest kicks to hit the street were on display recently at the Solexchange Sneaker Convention in New Jersey. Styles

from Jordan Brand, Nike, Vans, Converse, Asics and more were bought, traded, sold and ogled. Photographed by Clint Spaulding

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lear Weather’s fashion-forward sneakers hit the market just over a year ago, but they have already caught the eyes of celebs

including Justin Bieber and Black Thought of The Roots.

But the famous aren’t the only ones buying the Santa Ana, Calif.-based label’s kicks. In its first year of business, Clear Weather — created by brothers Josh and Brandon Brubacker — brought in $1.2 million at the register.

The founders said they were able to hit that sales mark thanks to moderate pricing.

“The idea was to create shoes with a fair price for the guy who can’t afford a Balenciaga sneaker, but can still get some-thing unique [with] really good quality and comfort,” Josh Brubacker said. The label’s spring ’17 collection for men and women will retail for $65 to $140.

The Brubackers spent years working for brands including Supra, Vans and Converse before launching their first solo venture.

Clear Weather is now sold in roughly

100 stores spanning eight countries. Among those retail partners are fashion destinations such as Barneys and Ameri-can Rag, as well as sneaker purveyors including Extra Butter and Common-wealth on the East Coast, and Bait and Blends on the West Coast.

Aside from its wholesale business, the brand is also focused on direct-to-consumer sales. Josh Brubacker con-firmed that the company’s e-commerce site accounted for 25 percent of Clear Weather’s business in 2015, a number the duo hopes to maintain this year.

Clear Weather anticipates its Jones VX sneaker will be a strong performer for the spring season. The daring court shoe features an outsole similar to its acclaimed Convex style. The brothers are also excited about the brand’s first training-inspired shoe, the Cloud Stryk, which Josh Brubacker described as its most futuristic.

“If you look at the shoe from the medial side, it looks completely different from the lateral side. It looks like two shoes colliding in the center of your foot,” he explained.

Fashion sneaker label Clear Weather delivers uncommon looks to high-end retail and sneaker boutiques. By Peter Verry

Favorable Forecast

C

The Cloud Stryk sneaker,launching for spring ’17

MAX SCHILLERAs Stockholm-based sneaker brand Eytys continues to gain buzz for its unisex styling and minimal shapes, the label’s co-founder and creative director talks design inspirations, new retail focuses and upcoming goals.

By Christian Allaire

1What new sneaker styles did you explore for the upcoming spring season? We went with a nostalgic inspiration for our spring ’17 collection. We thought about the shoes we dreamed about as kids and decided to update those silhouettes to look like something we would wear today, with elegant and contemporary shapes and materials.

2There is a lot of competition in the sneaker world right now. How do you differentiate yourselves?We focus on creating new silhouettes and comfort. And everything is always unisex. To

gender-specify footwear has never made sense to us.

3Do you incorporate runway trends into your seasonal offering? We don’t. Eytys is much more about creating worked-through and long-lived products than about keeping up with the fast-paced fashion world.

4You’ve always been selective about your distribution. What is your retail strategy for the upcoming year? We opened our first large flagship store here in Stockholm in March, and we’re very happy with it. It was a natural choice for us, as it’s [on Norrlandsgaten Street], where all the cool streetwear and skate shops used to be when we were kids. [We hope to open more stores], but what’s most important for us is finding the right location in the cities we’re interested in — that could happen in the next months, but also in the next [few] years. In terms of [wholesale] retail partners, we’re only working with stores where we would go shopping ourselves. It might be a luxury designer boutique or a cool basement skate shop.

5What other big goals do you have for the coming months? To continue working with great people and break boundaries in combination with developing products that we look for ourselves. We want to always follow the unisex, no-fuss vision that we started out with.

5 QUESTIONS

5

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30 T H E L I S T ATHLETIC The Eytys store in Stockholm is in a building that dates back to 1856.

The navy Acestyle withgum sole

The 24 Kilates x Reebok LX8500 collab was inspired by Bangkok’s colorful tuk tuk rickshaws. 32 T H E L I S T ATHLETIC

Barcelona hot spot 24 Kilates has been mining the sneaker trend for more than a decade. By Natalie Theodosi

As Good As Gold

hen 24 Kilates, one of Barcelona’s best-known streetwear stores, opened 11 years ago, there were barely any signs of an urban scene in the Spanish city.

Yet the store’s founders, Riki and Pol (who prefer to be known by their first names), took early note of the growth and innovations that were happening in that market. With that in mind, Riki said they set out to “spread the ur-ban culture” and “create a reference point” for streetwear in Barcelona.

Set in the heart of the city’s famed El Born quarter, 24 Kilates distinguishes itself from the area’s laid-back attitude and medieval architec-ture with its futuristic interiors. For example, product is displayed on glass shelves, and black-and-white minimal furniture is offset with the space’s bright-green ceiling.

The merchandise — sourced during the found-ers’ travels throughout Europe — consists of apparel from such brands as Stussy, accessories such as Marcel Burlon watches and Cazal sun-glasses, and lifestyle pieces including a selection of magazines. However, Riki explained, “Sneakers are the top product of the house.”

In addition to stocking the latest looks from

Wperennial favorites Puma, Nike and Adidas, the 24 Kilates team has launched collaborations over the past few years that have helped the store gain recognition beyond its local clientele. It is now a go-to destination for sneaker col-lectors visiting the city.

The retailers recently teamed with the Italian athletic company Diadora on a collaboration that pays tribute to the Olympic Games. The collection, called Seoul to Rio, refer-ences former sprinter Ben Johnson, who won a gold medal during the 1988 Olympics in Seoul, and features an updated version of the IC4000 sneaker model with perforated leather panels and an Olympic- themed palette of white, red, blue and gold.

Other collaboration pieces include the 24 Kilates x New Balance Epic TR sneaker, which launched in June and reintroduced the retro style in a new colorway of suede reds, blues and grays. The company also has worked with Reebok on multiple joint projects over recent years.

One of their collabs last year marked the store’s 10th anniversary and the Reebok Ventila-tor’s 25th anniversary. For that initiative, the

two brands made a new version of the famous sneaker, which was updated with contrasting materials and colors, such as royal blue nubuck and green nylon panels, to create “a shoe that the whole crew loved and wanted to wear all the time,” said Riki.

The Reebok models remain some of the most sought-after pieces — an achievement Riki credited, in part, to the strength of the brand. “Reebok maintains a high quality of their prod-ucts, especially their leathers, which is something that many brands overlook,” he said.

When it comes to collaboration collections, the 24 Kilates design team always makes a point to reference Spanish culture, whether through

their chosen colorways or the inspiration behind each piece, to maintain a point of difference from other sneaker stores and brands.

These limited-edition products have performed well among Asian customers, who tend to purchase the items from the store’s e-commerce site despite the high delivery fees. That sales trend prompted Riki and Pol to open their second 24 Kilates store, in Bangkok, last year.

The two said that they were fascinated by the city’s culture. And after hitting the 10-year mark in Barcelona, they wanted to take on a new challenge and a different market. Launched in collaboration with Jazzbah Records, a music and lifestyle hub in Bangkok, the new space aims to “bring a fresh, new concept store to the city that combines streetwear with lifestyle and music,” said Riki. As they map out the company’s next 10

years, Riki and Pol said they plan to continue focusing on unique collaborative proj-

ects, as well as grow their Bangkok client base.

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The store’s founders set out to “spread the urban culture” in Barcelona and “create a reference point”

for streetwear.

Inside the 24 Kilatesstore in Barcelona

The 24 Kilates xDiadora IC4000

collab

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Sky HighFor spring ’17, California-based skate brand Supra, a division of K-Swiss Global Brands, is introducing a daring new edition to its celebrated Skytop franchise. According to the company, the Skytop V was crafted with insight from skateboard legend Chad Muska and pairs the technical aspects of a skate shoe with the comfort of a running shoe. The sneaker employs a four-part rubber upper, full-length EVA midsole and an internal neoprene bootie. The Skytop V will retail for $125, come in four colorways, and be sold at Supra stores in NYC and Santa Monica, Calif.

Sneak PeekJ/Slides, the New York-based fashion-sneak-er label founded by Jay Litvack and Dimitri Mavridakas, is expanding its offering for spring ’17 with four new looks: the Denika, a mesh double-sole court shoe; the Cheyenne, a tasseled slip-on; the Aurora sneaker with

fur pom-pom; and the Beauty, an update to the brand’s popular Annabelle slip-on, this

time done with a feminine bow-tie. When designing the line, Litvack took

inspiration from the beaches of Montauk, N.Y. “My wife

and I have been coming out to Montauk for years,” he said. “We

love the casual attitude, its sense of style without pretension. We are born-and-bred New Yorkers and love the dynamism of the city, but we try to get to the beach as often as possible.” The entire spring J/Slides collection, priced from $125 to $150, will be available at such retailers as Nordstrom, Dillard’s, Amazon.com, Free People, Jildor Shoes and other specialty shops.

BUZZ

Athletic LaunchesTaking Wing After opening a new Adidas Originals flagship in New York last month, the brand will use the space to celebrate its fall collaboration with Canadian contemporary menswear label Wings + Horns. A shoppable installation of the collection will be unveiled Sept. 8 at 115 Spring St. Consumers can visit the install throughout New York Fashion Week and pick up selections from the line. For everyone else, the Wings + Horns collection will be available the same day at Adidas.com. The collabora-tion, which boasts a hand-made look and premium materials, includes men’s apparel and accessories, as well as Wings + Horns’ take on the popular Gazelle and ZX Flux sneakers. The shoes will retail for $120 and $150, respectively.

An Adidas xWings + Horns look

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The Cheyenne by J/Slides

Supra’s Skytop V

Footwear News 2016 Editorial Calendar

ISSUE DATE SPACE CLOSE EDITORIAL FEATURE

SEPTEMBER

9/12 8/31 Jimmy Choo Milestone Distribution: Children’s Great Event Shoe Show

9/19 9/7 Must Buys Spring, China, NY Runway Coverage Distribution: Sole Commerce, Children’s Club of NY

OCTOBER

10/3 9/21 DSW Milestone, Best In Kids, Kids Fashion, Milan Runway Coverage

10/10 9/28 Work Boot, Occupational Footwear, Outdoor, Paris Runway Coverage Distribution: FDRA Summit (CA)

10/17 10/5 FN 100

10/24 10/12 QVC Presents FFANY Shoes On Sale Distribution: QVC presents FFANY Shoes On Sale Event

NOVEMBER

11/7 10/26 Journeys Milestone Distribution: NSRA Leadership Conference

11/14 11/2 Comfort, Slippers, Rainboots

11/21 11/9 FFANY Pre-Show Distribution: FFANY, Two Ten Footwear Annual Gala

11/28 11/16 FN Achievement Awards, FFANY Show Distribution: FN Achievement Awards, FFANY

She’s only 4, but Blue Ivy Carter is making a name for herself in the fashion world. Like her mom, Beyoncé, she turned heads at the 2016 MTV Video Music Awards in New York last week. Blue Ivy brought on the glam in pink, crystal-studded Giuseppe Zanotti Dolly sneakers paired with a Mischka Aoki gold dress.

FN IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2016 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 72, NO.29. SEPTEMBER 5, 2016. FN (ISSN 0162-914X) is published weekly (except for the first week in July, second week in December, third week in January and April, fourth week in May, September and December, fifth week in February, August and October) by Fairchild Publishing, LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media, LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 475 Fifth Ave, New York, NY 10017. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO FOOTWEAR NEWS, P.O. Box 6357, Harlan, IA, 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to FOOTWEAR NEWS, P.O. Box 6357, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-963-7335, or e-mail customer service at footwearnews@cdsfulfill-ment.com. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. One-year subscription price: U.S. $72, Canadian $149, foreign $295. Single-copy cost $10. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of a new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. We reserve the right to change the number of issues contained in a subscription term and/or the way the product is delivered. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to FOOTWEAR NEWS, 475 5th Ave, 2nd Fl., New York, NY 10017. For permissions and editorial requests, e-mail licensing@pmc.com. Visit us online at www.footwearnews.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Publishing, LLC magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. FOOTWEAR NEWS IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITE ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDER-ATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY FOOTWEAR NEWS IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS , PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

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