The Garden Spade November 2017

Cleaning Up After Plant Disease and Pests Donna Aufdenberg, MU Extension Horticulturist

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**In This Issue**

Cleaning up After

Plant Disease and Pests

What Is It?

Quick Apple Facts

Houseplants

Winter Survival of

Plants and Insects

Stratifying Seeds

Upcoming Programs

“Reliable, Responsive and Relevant Information for the Missouri Gardener”

We have had a trying year for gardening. Many gardens and landscape areas

have ended the garden season on a sour note with lots of disease and problems.

Many gardeners are wanting to know at this point, what can I do to clean things

up and not face some of the same problems again.

In the vegetable garden, compost or turn over any plant debris that is not

diseased as soon as possible after harvest to begin the break down process of

organic matter. Pull or pick up any diseased plants and GET RID OF THEM!

Send them to the ditch, to the

trash, or burn them. Anywhere

but near or in the garden area will

do. Do not plant vegetables from

the same family of plants at the

same location for 3 to 5 years.

Plants within the same family

need to be a minimum of 10 to 15

feet away from the location of the

diseased crop.

On trees and shrubs, if leaf spots

and diseases were a problem,

make sure to rake up and remove

all leaves from the site. If the area is too big to remove the leaves, mulch leaves

with a lawn mower to break up the leaf pieces to speed up the breakdown of

infected plant. Remove any branches or twigs that are broken, look unusual or

have any cracks, shrunken or discolored areas.

In perennial flower gardens, if leaf spots or blights are present, cut stems at the

soil level and remove all infected plant parts. If no disease

exists, then removal is not necessary but optional. If you Continued to page 2

Leaf spot symptoms of early blight on tomato. M. Grabowski, UMN Extension

The Garden Spade November 2017 · 2

Plants with Winter Interest Katie Kammler, MU Extension Horticulture Specialist

Cleaning Up After Plant Disease and Pests Donna Aufdenberg, MU Extension Horticulturist

prefer to “tidy” things up, it is best to do so after the

first hard frost has killed the tops for the year. Keep in mind that leaving the

dead foliage and spent blooms may be useful to birds or other wildlife

during the winter. Make sure to remove any seed head of those plants you

do not want to self-seed. Rake out and remove leaves from under rose

bushes and other herbaceous plants. This will keep insects from

overwintering and disease spores from spreading in the spring.

In the orchard, collect and remove any diseased leaves once they have

fallen. Remove mummified fruits on or around the fruit trees or grapevines.

Remove any stakes, row markers and any breakable objects. Pull up any

weed barriers (plastic or cloth) that are not decomposable and not covered

by mulches. Cardboard, newspaper, straw and wood mulch may be left to

decompose.

Make one final weeding around the vegetable garden, orchard and landscape

beds. You don’t want to leave any stragglers that might harbor pests or

diseases or even release pesky weed seeds.

Turning the soil in late fall can also help. This helps the cold temperatures

freeze out any insect eggs and immature stages that might lay in the top several inches of the soil. Clean

up tools by removing all soil and plant debris. Then wearing water proof gloves, wash all tools and

equipment with a 10% bleach solution (mix 1 part bleach to 9 parts water). Rinse with clean water, dry

and oil before putting them away.

Continued from page 1

What Is It?

Can you figure out what plant this

mystery picture is from?

Turn to page 6 to find out if you are right!

Zucchini after frost—it’s time to clean it up. Get rid of it!

Remove cages and old rottening produce. Clean

everything up!

The Garden Spade

January Gardening Calendar

Donna Aufdenberg, MU Extension Horticulture Specialist

Outdoor Flowering plants and Ornamentals

Prevent frost cracking or sunscald by wrapping trunks with commercial tree wrap or

painting the south and southwest facing sides of the trunk with white latex outdoor

paint. Young, thin barked trees such as maples and many fruit trees are especially

susceptible.

Take a walk through your garden as the fall season winds down. Take time to reflect

on the successes and failures of your gardens this year. Make notes in your gardening

notebook for new things to try, and things to fix, next spring.

Mulch used in spring and summer to control weed growth is different from the mulch

used in winter. Winter mulch to protect perennial plants should not be dense and

heavy. Put down shredded tree branches, pine boughs, or small leaves when the

ground freezes in your region. In spring, rake away the mulch material and add it to

the compost pile.

Check guide wires around newly planted trees to be sure hose sections still cover the

supporting wires or ropes so they will not damage the trunks in windy weather.

Remove supports that are over 6 months old.

Inspect trees and shrubs for bagworm capsules and the silvery egg masses of tent

caterpillars. Remove and destroy them to reduce next year’s pest population.

Vegetable Gardening

Have garden soil tested for fertilizer needs every three to five years.

Fall tilling, except in erosion-prone areas, helps improve soil structure and usually

leads to soils warming up and drying faster in the spring, thus allowing crops to be

planted earlier.

Rhubarb plants that are 4 years old can be divided and transplanted. A site prepared

by deep digging and incorporating compost will pay off with a good yield in

upcoming years.

To prevent insects or diseases from over-wintering in the garden, remove and

compost all plant debris.

Fruits and Nuts

Break the crust on the surface of any sawdust mulch you have around blueberries,

shrubs, and perennials to improve the absorption of water from fall rains.

Keep mulches pulled back several inches from the base of fruit trees to prevent bark

injury from hungry mice and other rodents.

Fallen, spoiled or mummified fruit should be cleaned up from the garden and

destroyed by burying.

Mulch strawberries for winter with straw. This should be done after several nights

near 20 degrees, but before the temperatures drop into the teens. Apply straw loosely,

but thick enough to hide plants from view.

Indoor Plants

Inspect plants being brought in from outdoors for insect pests. Consider setting them

away from other houseplants for a short time to keep potential pests from spreading.

Plants brought in will need to re-acclimate to indoors. Expect some leaf shedding.

Quick Apple

Facts

Most apples are still

picked by hand.

It takes the energy

from 50 leaves to

produce one apple.

25 percent of an

apple’s volume is

air...that is why they

float.

The big three in

Missouri apples are

Jonathon, Red

Delicious and Golden

Delicious.

Apples are fat, sodium,

and cholesterol free.

They are also a great

source of fiber.

Apple trees are

propagated by grafting

or budding.

Apples ripen six to ten

times faster at room

temperature than if

they were refrigerated.

In colonial times,

apples were called a

winter banana or melt-

in-your-mouth.

Apples are in the rose

family.

November 2017 · 3

November Gardening Calendar Donna Aufdenberg, MU Extension Horticulture Specialist

The Garden Spade

Most common house plants are tender tropical plants that will grow under the conditions inside a house.

Some are grown for their flowers, others for their foliage. Most grow

naturally in the shade and a lot of them can withstand neglect from their

caretakers. I have a lot of house plants but this year I have been more

selective in what I brought back in the house. I’m always a little relieved

when it is warm enough that I can take them outside on the porch for the

summer.

This time of year there are a lot of plants available that are seasonal and can

be kept as house plants. Amaryllis bulbs and Christmas cactus are starting to

show up in stores this time of year. I have a lot of amaryllis because I love

the large blooms in shades of red, pink, and white. They are fairly easy to

care for but require heavy fertilization to get a bloom the second year. I carry

them all outside in the summertime and leave them on the porch until it gets

cool. I used to put them under a tree but the pillbugs infested the pots and ate

the roots so the porch was a better option. I can also control the amount of

water they get there. Then I cut the leaves off and let them dry out, storing

them in the basement until they start to send up buds in the winter.

Christmas and Thanksgiving cacti also make good house plants with blooms

of pink, red, white, yellow, and peach. I have one that has been in my family

for at least four generations. My plants are loaded with buds right now, with

some starting to open. The key to getting them to bloom is shocking them. I

just brought them in from the porch before the frost and they are loaded with

buds and starting to bloom because of the cool night temps. Other ways to

get them to set buds include withholding water for two weeks and then giving

them fertilizer or putting them in a dark closet for a week.

African violets are another favorite of mine due to the varieties available and

their long bloom times. They are easy to propagate and share with friends. I

enjoy propagating and watching them grow. Succulents are very popular

now and come in all sorts of colors and shapes. Succulents as house plants

aren’t a new trend, there are just a lot more available now. They are also easy

to propagate. I have started collecting a variety and just potted them all

together and brought them in for the winter. I’m excited to see how they do.

These are just a few of the house plants available. For more information on

care and types of house plants refer these guides or call your local extension office.

http://extension.missouri.edu/explorepdf/agguides/hort/g06510.pdf

http://urbanext.illinois.edu/houseplants/default.cfm http://extension.missouri.edu/eplorepdf/agguides/hort/g06560.pdf

House Plants Katie Kammler, MU Extension Horticulture Specialist

November 2017 · 4

Christmas Cactus

Mixed Succulents

African Violet

The Garden Spade November 2017 · 5

Winter Survival of Plants and Insects Michele Warmund, MU State Fruit Extension Specialist

With winter approaching, plants are acclimating and insects are altering their behavior and physiology in

response to shorter day lengths and cooler temperatures. Plants are accumulating sugars and proteins as

they become dormant for the cold winter months ahead. Overwintering plants survive temperatures below

32°F by tolerating or avoiding freezing. Some plants, such as zoysiagrass, survive by tolerating ice

formation in spaces between cells. Other plants, including fruit trees grown in Missouri, survive low

winter temperatures by avoiding freezing. Water inside freeze-avoiding plants remains in an unfrozen state

due to supercooling.

Insects utilize one or more methods for winter survival including migration, freeze avoidance or freeze

tolerance. Some insects avoid cold weather by migrating to warmer climates. Probably the best example of

migrating insects are Monarch butterflies that begin flying south in late August to overwinter in Mexico.

Green darners, a common species of dragonflies, also migrate to Texas and Mexico to avoid freezing

temperatures. Another way insects avoid the cold is by seeking shelter. For example, adult Asian lady

beetles overwinter in cracks and crevices in roof shingles, windows, and siding on structures. All life

stages of European honey bees overwinter inside hives. Leaf litter is another common shelter for

overwintering insects such as bean leaf beetles, stink bugs, and grasshoppers. Other insects can be found

within bud scales (mites) or under loose bark of trees (codling moth larvae), in leaf litter, underneath rocks

(pillbugs), or in the soil (Japanese beetles) during winter (Figure 1).

Many insects spend the winter in a state of dormancy called diapause. In

the fall, shorter day lengths and exposure to cool temperatures trigger

hormone production, which lowers insect metabolism and their energy

requirement. When conditions become favorable near spring, insects

resume their activity. Insect eggs, larvae, pupae, or adults can undergo

diapause, depending on the species.

Freeze-avoiding insects lower the temperature at which their body fluids

freeze. Thus, they can withstand temperatures below 23°F. Some insects avoid freezing by emptying their

gut to prevent internal ice formation. Certain insects can also produce antifreeze proteins in their

hemolymph (body fluid) that bind to ice crystals during their formation to prevent crystals from growing.

Other types of antifreeze compounds synthesized by insects are polyols and sugars, which lower the

freezing point of their hemolymph. Glycerol is a common type of polyol and sorbitol is a sugar that lowers

the temperature at which an insect freezes. Codling moth and emerald ash borer larvae and forest tent

caterpillar eggs survive winter by freeze avoidance.

Freeze-tolerant insects are able to withstand the formation of ice internally. In the fall, ice nucleation-

active agents in the insect's hemolymph or in other parts of the body promote non-lethal ice formation

extracellularly (i.e., outside cells) at temperatures usually between 23 and 14°F. Even though ice forms

within the insect, it is non-lethal. Woolly bear caterpillars are an example of a freeze-tolerant insect.

For the upcoming winter, the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) is predicting a

weak La Nina event. Thus, there is much uncertainty in the forecast for Missouri weather. At best, we can

look for insects seeking shelter and follow their lead to avoid freezing.

Figure 1. Eriophyid mites over-wintering in an elderberry bud

The Garden Spade November 2017 · 6

Time to Stratify Seeds To Start Seedlings in Spring Donna Aufdenberg, MU Extension Horticulture Specialist

Seeds need the right environment to start: temperature, moisture, air and proper light conditions. What

happens when all these things are right but germination still does not occur? Well, some seeds need to

overcome seed dormancy through STRATIFICATION.

Stratification is cold, moist chilling of seeds to meet a chilling requirement in order to germinate. Some

seeds require a period of 3 to 6 months at temperatures below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. This requirement

mimics the winter season. Lee Stivers from PennState Extension explains, “For

example, the membrane within the seed coat of some seeds forms a barrier that is

permeable to water but not to oxygen. Cold temperatures allow oxygen to get into

the seed, while warm temperatures prevent oxygen uptake. Cool temperatures also

allow the seed to digest some of its food reserve, giving it energy. For these seeds,

putting them in the refrigerator for a specific period of time allows them to gain

sufficient oxygen and energy to germinate (Colorado Seed Laboratory 2009).”

So, how does one go about stratifying seed? Seeds can be placed in moistened, (sterile) sand, sawdust or

vermiculite inside a plastic bag. Avoid excessive moisture. Keep seeds in a place that doesn’t freeze but

stays below 40 degrees Fahrenheit for the recommended amount of time. A refrigerator is suitable. Check

bags weekly for mildew or dryness.

Once stratification period is met, sow seeds in larger pots or open packs by sprinkling contents on top of

loose potting mix and gently watering in. A thin layer of soil or sphagnum peat might be needed on top of

some types of seeds. It is best to consult books and publications on species specifics.

What Is It? Katie Kammler, MU Extension Horticulture Specialist

This is a pumpkin that is called Musquee de Maroc.

This is the first year that I grew this variety and it made it despite

the drought in the middle and end of the growing season. This is a

moshata type pumpkin so it is closely related to butternut squash

and field pie pumpkins. These types tend to have longer maturity

dates so they will be one of the last squash ready for harvest. I

really like the look of the warts on this tan pumpkin. I had quite a

few and they all were a little different in shape and wartiness. It is

a fun new pumpkin to try in next year’s garden! I bought the seed

from Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds.

Baker Creek Catalog says, “The stunning, round to bell-shaped

fruits are terra-cotta to buff-colored, and warted very attractively.

You'll want to use this one in centerpieces and displays before you

consign it to the kitchen! A commercial variety in north Africa.”

Seedlings, Picture from PennState Extension

The Garden Spade

November 2017 · 7

Upcoming Events The following Master Gardener meetings are held each

month. All are welcome to attend. Please contact your local extension office to confirm location of next meeting.

Parkland MGs - 1st Monday, 6:30pm, Farmington Public Library

Poplar Bluff MGs - 1st Tuesday at 6:00 pm. Call 573-686-8064 for the location.

Ste. Genevieve MGs - 2nd Thursday, at 6:30pm, Ste. Gen. County Extension Center

Cape Girardeau MGs - 3rd Thursday at 7:00pm, Cape County Extension Center from Nov to March and Shawnee Park Center from April to Sept. Call 573-238-2420 for questions.

Perry MGs - 4th Monday at 6:30pm, Perry Co. Extension Center

November

3 - Grow Native! Soils Workshop. Grow Native! Soils

Workshop with Dr. Elaine Ingham, Dr. Alice Tipton and Doug

Peterson. At St. Louis Community College, Kirkwood, MO.

Sponsored by LanDesign and Roeslein Alternative Energy.

4 - Grow Native! Native Tree Walk at Bellefontaine

Cemetery. In par tnership with Bellefontaine Cemetary, St.

Louis, led by Cemetery Horticulture Supervisor Kyle

Cheeseborough, 10 a.m. Limited to 45. Free. Registration

information coming soon. Questions? Call 888-843-6739.

9 - Educational program on “Cold Frames” on Thursday, Nov

9, 2017 from 1:00 to 3:00 p.m. at the Butler County Extension

Center at 614 Lindsay Ave. Suite 3 in Poplar Bluff. Fee: $5, to

register, call 573-686-8064.

December

2 - Small Acreage and Land Entrepreneur (SALE)

Conference at Jefferson College, Hillsboro, MO from 8:15 am

to 4:30 pm

13—High Tunnel Workshop from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. at the Iron

County Health Deparment at 606 West Russel Street in Ironton.

Cost: $15 per person. RSVP by December 6th.

February

17 - Perryville Garden Symposium at Mineral Area College in

Perryville, MO.

March

3 - Parkland Garden Symposium at Mineral Area College in

Park Hills, MO.

Upcoming Program!

Debi Kelly, MU Extension Local Foods Specialist

Hold the Date!

Small Acreage and Land Entrepreneur (SALE)

Conference

Saturday, December 2, 2017

Jefferson College, Hillsboro MO

8:15 am to 4:30 pm

Gain practical knowledge and explore the possibilities for your small acreage at this informative

conference. Area agriculture specialists will be hosting the Small

Acreage and Land Entrepreneur Conference. The conference will be a daylong learning opportunity for people who are excited to learn

more about opportunities with a small acreage and ways they can

make income on their land. Topics will include pumpkins, beekeeping,

marketing, recordkeeping, goats, grants and more. Stay tuned. More

information to come.

For more information, contact Debi Kelly at 636-797-5391 or

kellyd@missouri.edu

The Garden Spade

A Must Have! Garden Journal

Donna Aufdenberg, MU Extension Horticulture Specialist

The From Seed to Harvest and Beyond: Garden Journal

and Calendar is a garden journal as well as a how-to

guide and information resource. It provides a place to keep

all gardening information, plans and notes together.

Keeping a garden journal is a great way to organize and

keep track of the how, when,

where and what of the gardening

season. Writing down your

thoughts, successes, failures,

needed improvements and new

ideas as the gardening season

progresses is easier than struggling

to remember them several months

after the season has ended. Many

gardeners believe the keys to successful gardening are to get your plans

on paper first and to keep records. This journal allows this to be done.

If you are interested in purchasing a garden journal for yourself or for a

gift, we are selling them as a fundraiser for $20 each plus $3 shipping

and handling. Each journal comes in a binder with a zipper pouch, note

pad, etc. Contact the Bollinger County Extension Center at 573-238-

2420, Butler County Extension Center at 573-686-8064 or the Ste.

Genevieve Extension Center at 573-883-3548 for ordering

information.

November 2017 · 8

Published monthly by University of

Missouri Extension Faculty for

individuals and families living state-

wide in Missouri. This newsletter is

provided by your local Extension

Specialists and Extension Councils.

Newsletter Editors:

Donna Aufdenberg

MU Extension Horticulture Specialist

Marble Hill, MO

573-238-2420

aufdenbergd@missouri.edu

Sarah Denkler

MU Extension Horticulture Specialist

Poplar Bluff, MO

573-686-8064

denklers@missouri.edu

Katie Kammler

MU Extension Horticulture Specialist

Ste. Genevieve, MO

573-883-3548

kammlerk@missouri.edu

Guest Writers:

Michele Warmund

State Fruit Extension Specialist

573-882-9632

warmundm@missouri.edu

The Garden Spade

Great Christmas Gift!

If you have already completed volunteer hours for the year, please get

them reported online or send to your local Master Gardener

Coordinator.

If you need a new copy of hour record sheet, you can find it at

http://mg.missouri.edumg forms.htm or contact your local

coordinator and they will send you one.

We are really encouraging the online reporting system this

year. Check out: http://repor t.missour imastergardener .com/

If any of your information has changed (address, phone, or email),

please let us know.

These hours are important to us! They help ensure the continuance of

the program.

Time for Master Gardener Hours! Donna Aufdenberg, MU Extension Horticulture Specialist

HIGH TUNNEL

WORKSHOP AND TOUR

MO Strike Force Project

When: Wednesday, December 13, 2017

Time: 8 am to 1 pm in the Classroom; 1 to 3 pm for the tour

Where: Iron County Health Dept. at 606 West Russell Street, Ironton

Cost: $15 per person (pre-registration required); RSVP by December 6

StrikeForce Project partnerships include

University of Missouri Extension, NRCS/USDA,

and Lincoln University who provide training

that will help educate Missouri’s farm

community, private landowners, conservation

organizations, cooperating agencies, and

general citizenry by:

Increasing consumption of local and

regionally produced products;

Increasing customers and sales of local and

regionally produced products;

Strengthening market opportunities for

farm and ranch operations serving local

markets; and

Improving food safety of local and

regionally produced products.

Come learn how you can

produce fruit and vegetables

year round in the unique

growing environment of a

high tunnel. Plus ,there are

cost share opportunities!

Registration and $15 Fee required by

December 6th to ensure meal.

Please mail registration to: Bollinger

County Extension Center, 302 Union St.,

Marble Hill, MO 63764