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THE GATE Y O U R E N T R A N C E T O A L U X U R Y L I F E S T Y L E Dress Like You Belong in the Winner’s Circle p. 1 p. 1 The National Sporting Library and Museum p. 6 How About a Splash of Grace With That Toast? p. 4

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The Gate - Your Entrance to a Luxuray Lifestyle

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T H E G A T EY O U R E N T R A N C E T O A L U X U R Y L I F E S T Y L E

Dress Like You Belong in the Winner’s Circlep. 1p. 1

The NationalSporting Library and Museump. 6

How About aSplash of Grace With That Toast?p. 4

Robin Cavanagh Rick Bechtold

Publisher’s Message THE GATE—YOUR ENTRANCE TO A LUXURY LIFESTYLE

WelcomeTo

The Gate

Your Entrance to a Luxury LifestyleWe are pleased to welcome you to the inaugural issue of The Gate. As our tag line suggests, we want this to be

your introduction to a luxury lifestyle, full of good things, great ideas, entertainment and an awareness of how

fortunate we are to live in a town—and a nation—where we can express ourselves freely and creatively.

Middleburg is a beautiful, unspoiled historic village. While the lovely, shady streets and unique shops make this

a truly special place, what drew us here and keeps us here is the character of the town—and that means the people

who live here. Middleburg is filled with friendly, compassionate and dedicated citizens who are fiercely protective of

the treasure that is this village—but who also welcome visitors and newcomers with open arms.

The story of Middleburg reflects the growth of our nation, and the residents appreciate the rich history that it

represents. In the pages of this online magazine, you will find stories that spotlight bits of that history, as well as

features about current people, places and events in town.

We’re also pleased to share with you some of our own expertise. Together, we have many years of experience

in the apparel industry and we believe we have developed our own unique product built around a commitment to

quality, style and—as always—a high level of customer service. We treasure our customers—it’s as simple as that.

There is no greater pleasure for us than to have one of our loyal customers share their delight in our clothing and

their appreciation of the care and concern we try to show every day.

When you step through the doors of Duchessa, on Washington Street in Middleburg, you will be welcomed like

a friend—and we hope that we will make new friends every day. Richard Allen Clothing is sharing space for now

with Duchessa, and so we will be able to give you and your spouse the care and attention we believe you deserve.

We are truly honored to be part of Middleburg, and The Gate is our way to say thank you to a village that has

welcomed us and made us feel at home. We hope you enjoy it.

THE GATE

ISSUE 1/2012

PUBLISHERS MANAGING EDITOR ART DIRECTOR CONTRIBUTING EDITOR

Robin Cavanagh and Rick Bechtold Genie Ford Joyce Woods William Hanson

DRESS LIKE YOU BELONG IN THE WINNER’S CIRCLE

HOW ABOUT A SPLASH OF GRACE WITH THAT TOAST?

THE NATIONAL SPORTING LIBRARY AND MUSEUM

HOW TO CARE FOR YOUR SUITS AND SPORT COATS

GRACE KELLY: THE TIMELESS STYLE OF A TRUE PRINCESS

STORIES FROM MIDDLEBURG’S HISTORY: THE GREAT HOUND MATCH OF 1905

OFF THE CUFF: MEN’S FASHION TODAY

THE OYSTER: LIVING UP TO ITS REPUTATION

AROUND THE VILLAGE

BITS AND PIECES FROM THE VILLAGE

VOLUNTEERING: THE BEST GIFT OF ALL

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INSIDE THE GATE:

DUCHESSA AND RICHARD ALLEN CLOTHING • 100 E. WASHINGTON STREET, MIDDLEBURG, VIRGINIA • 540-687-8898www.duchessaofmiddleburg.com • www.richardallenclothing.com

JULY 2012:

Duchessa: July is for our veterans. Throughout the month, Duchessa will donate $2 per transaction to the Disabled American Veterans (DAV)

AUGUST 2012:

Duchessa: First weekend in August (3rd, 4th and 5th) is Middleburg’s annual Sidewalk Sale—up to 75% off. August 15: Fall fashion preview.

Richard Allen Clothing: Ballin Trousers, John Partridge Outerwear

SEPTEMBER 2012:

Duchessa: Sweater Swap—donate a clean and gently worn sweater and take 25% off a Fall 2012 collection sweater. All donated sweaters go to Women Giving Back (WEB).

Richard Allen Clothing: Fall trunk show—Samuelsohn Clothing Company, Torino Leather Goods, Pantherella Socks, Scott Barber Sportswear

OCTOBER 2012:

Duchessa: Windy Hill Fashion Show to benefit the Windy Hill Foundation.

Richard Allen Clothing: Sweater trunk show—Eildon Hills, Fairway and Greene

NOVEMBER 2012:

Duchessa: Black Friday holiday sale

Richard Allen Clothing: Black and white promotion—tuxedo sale, and any suit or sport coat containing black and/or white.

DECEMBER 2012:

Duchessa: Charity of Choice Month—5% of all purchases go to our customers’ charities of choice.

CALENDAR

Duchessa of Middleburg Takes Shopping for

Race Fashions to the Finish Line!

DRESSING FOR THE WINNERS CIRCLE:

For those who love feminine designs, the dress has returned—and none too soon! Duchessa of

Middleburg has an abundance of lovely garments to choose from that will suit every age and

figure—and everyone is certain to find a winner among the shop’s many designers. Duchessa’s dresses

are made in America by Sara Campbell, Bigio and Melly M and are turning up at the most influential

tailgate gatherings and Hunt balls.

THE GATE/2012/ISSUE 1 1

Feminine, fitted or floaty are the three best ways to de-scribe the choices today—and every one of these dressesmakes a lovely statement on race day. New designs for thisseason are extraordinarily beautiful and can be paired with afabulous hat to make the perfect derby debut.

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Recently, the Middleburg Mad Hatter enchanted the lovelyboutique with dramatic hats and fascinators. Patty MilliganBates, A.K.A “The Middleburg Mad Hatter,” embellishes vin-tage and new toppers with a unique whimsy of flowers, birds,netting, ribbon and even seashells. The hats are sprinkledthroughout the shop. These Middleburg Mad Hatters worksof art are featured and can be purchased throughout theSpring and Fall race seasons.

Race Fashions in the Years past…Dressing up for the races is nothing new. In 1901, a jour-

nalist from the Louisville-Courier described the scene thisway: “The seats in the grandstand were filled with gailydressed women and men. The mass of green, pink, red, yel-low, blue—all the colors of the rainbow—blending into oneharmonious whole was as beautiful a sight as His Eminence inthe lead.”

In those days, and well into the middle of the 20th century, ladies often carried parasols and wore gloves as wellas hats.

Over the decades and now into the 21st century, the per-sistent trend has been bigger, flashier, wilder hats. Hemlines

went up, of course, as did the height of those heels. In defense of practicality, however, we suggest having stylish flipflops or rubber boots stashed in your handbag in case youfind yourself slogging through mud on a rainy spring afternoon.

Racetrack Vs. SteeplechaseThere is, of course, a world of difference between the

traditional racetrack, with its grandstands, infield and bettingwindows, and the steeplechase, usually held on grassy fieldswith the course surrounded by tents and tailgaters. At a steeplechase event there’s always lots of good food, cocktailsand wine and, of course, well-dressed, beautiful people. Although there are also plenty of people who dress like theyjust came from the barn or the bowling alley, a steeplechase is an occasion to dress up with an extravagance that is seldom adopted at other times. Beautiful dresses, outrageoushats, and a handsome man on your arm allow you to make your own unique fashion statement. It’s also great fun, especially if the weather cooperates and the day is glorious.

On the major race days, such as the Kentucky Derby, most people pull out all the stops when it comes to choosingwhat to wear. This season’s styles are perfect for days like this, when pastels or bright colors adorn the grandstand orthe field.

Of course, wearing a hat to the Kentucky Derby is atime-honored tradition, and many believe a hat will bringgood luck. Derby day is also one of those times when there’sno reason to hold back!

What Comes First?What comes first—the hat or the dress? We say pick some-

thing you love and build your outfit around it. If that’s a hat,fine, but here are a few guidelines just in case:

• If your hat is busy, that is, if it’s heavily embellished or patterned, keep the dress simple.

• If the hat is simple, go wild with the dress.

• If outrageous or funky is the look you’re seeking, go forit. Just try to keep the hat and the dress on an equal footing.

For some, what they wear to the racecourse is more impor-tant than the horses running, but whether you choose to dressto the nines or go as you are, the races are a wonderful way tospend a day outdoors. Our only request: Do it withstyle!

THE GATE/2012/ISSUE 1 3

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For example, here is a well-meaning but embarrassing toastby a best man at a wedding: “To the bride and groom: 60% ofmarriages end in divorce and the rest…you live happily untildeath. Here’s hoping you die.” Or this one, when the personmaking the toast found himself geographically challenged: “Topeace in the Midwest.” What? Is there war in Wisconsin? No,what he really meant to say, which only becomes clear aftersome contemplation, is “here’s to peace in the Middle East.”

Even heads of state can get in trouble. In Britain, the loyaltoast is a toast to the Sovereign. It is just simply the words “TheQueen,” and after that the British National Anthem is playedand one should not drink or raise one’s glass until it has fin-ished playing. Apparently no one in White House protocol toldPresident Obama that, because he confused a toast for a speechduring a state banquet in England in 2011, and talked over theorchestra as they played “God Save The Queen.”

When words are not carefully chosen, no amount of enthu-

siasm can make up for the gaffe, as in this toast to a joyfulevening: “Here’s to good friends. Tonight is kind of topless.”We’re pretty sure that all those at this event were fully dressed,and that perhaps what the celebrant really meant was thatthere wasn’t much that could top this evening—and that’s whathe should have said.

Giving a great toast is always a challenge. Depending on thesetting, the wedding of your best friend for example, the stakescan be high. You want your toast to be appropriate, to bepoignant or moving, inspirational or funny—or all of thosethings at once. Make a commitment to yourself to be a littleold-fashioned—that is, to add some grace and graciousness toeverything you say. If you do, chances are you won’t go wrong.Here also are some basic rules you can follow that should keepyou out of trouble.

Don’t rush the toast, which is something nervous speakersoften do. If you find yourself getting emotional, try counting

STEVE MCQUEEN KNEW HOW TO MAKE AN ELEGANT TOAST, and ithelped that he also knew how to dress with style.

HOW ABOUT A

WITH THAT TOAST?SPLASH OF GRACE

To most of us, when drinking with

companions and the time comes for a

toast, we simply raise our glasses and say

cheers, salud, or the equivalent thereof. The

days of long, eloquent toasts seem to be

over for most of us. But on those rare

occasions when we are asked to say more,

we can find ourselves paralyzed with fear,

our minds a blank screen, and what is

likely to follow will be gibberish—if we’re

lucky. If we’re unlucky, we may say

something so cringe inducing that the

mortification can last years, especially

since our friends and families are not

likely to let us forget it!

THE GATE/2012/ISSUE 1 5

backwards from one hundred and that may distract you longenough to get your emotions under control. Take some deepbreaths and speak slowly. Rehearsing in advance can be enor-mously helpful.

If you decide to tell a story, be careful. Humor is fine; humil-iation is not. A story can be funny but it shouldn’t be embar-rassing. Never, ever tell a story at a wedding about former partners of the bride or groom. At agraduation party, don’t talk about past academicdifficulties. No swearing, name-calling or insults,either—this is a toast, not a roast. Avoid slang.Avoid clichés.

The toast is not about you. You might be inthe spotlight for the moment, but you shouldshine that light as much as possible on the sub-ject of the occasion. Start by saying what the object of your toast is. For example, you start by saying “we’re gathered here tonight to honorJack Spratt, who is leaving us after 50 years ofdedicated service.” Then you give them thehighlights of those 50 years, as briefly and succinctly as possible.

If this is a formal event—a wedding, gradua-tion, birthday celebration—and you know in ad-vance you will be responsible for making thetoast, write it down ahead of time. Mark Twain, themaster of the pithy remark, once said that a

good, impromptu speech can take about three weeks to pre-pare, so keep that in mind. Try to memorize it so you don’thave to read it, and only refer to your notes if you really needthem. Speak from the heart; if you can’t do that, then declineahead of time with graciousness so the host or hostess can findsomeone else.

Follow the KISS rule—keep it short and simple. It’s best togo no more than a couple of minutes or your audience will getrestless or bored.

Please don’t bang on the glass to get people’s attention. Askfor some help in getting the room to settle down. At a weddingthe DJ can provide that service. If you must, say in a loud,commanding but friendly voice, “May I have your attention please,”and say it more than once if necessary. Make eye contact withthe person or people being honored.

Don’t rely on liquid courage—there’s nothing worse than adrunk giving a toast. It’s usually embarrassing to everyone andwhen the toast giver sobers up, he or she is going to have to livewith a pretty mortifying memory.

Always end on a positive note. Raise your glass to shoulderheight to signal your audience that you are finished. If you’reon the receiving end, it’s considered a faux pas to drink when atoast is offered to you. In most cultures, you must not clinkglasses after completing the toast.

The ability to make a moving and memorable toast canreach the level of an art form. In Europe, especially in Ger-many and the Scandinavian countries, toasting is still an inte-gral part of many meals, which often begin as well as end witha toast. If you find yourself abroad and required to offer atoast, try to do a little homework so you toast appropriately tothe culture you are in.

And when in doubt, you can always try Shakespeare: May aflock of blessings light upon thy back.

Steve McQueen’s relaxed elegance seems to be making a come-back.

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The NSLM is dedicated to preserving, sharing, and promoting the literature, art, and culture of equestrian andrural field sports. Founded in1954, the institution has over24,000 books and works ofart in the collections. Nestledon a hill at the edge of thevillage, the National SportingLibrary and Museum has twobuildings. The first is the carriage-style Library built in1999 to accommodate the expanding collection and protect rare books, some dat-ing back to the 16th century.The second is an expandedand renovated 1804 mansionwhich is now the Sporting Art

Museum. The Museum opened in2011 to much acclaim as people from around the country joined the celebration.

HistoryOpen to researchers and the general

public, the NSLM has been built andsustained by the generosity of collectorsand donors. Foxhunter, sportsman, andphilanthropist George L. Ohrstrom, Sr.and Alexander Mackay-Smith, editorof The Chronicle of the Horse founded theNational Sporting Library. George L.Ohrstrom, Jr. became the guiding forcefor the first five decades. The Librarywas housed in the basement of the1804 mansion, called Vine Hill, untilJohn H. and Martha Daniels con-tributed their collection of more than5,000 sporting books and it becamenecessary to build the 15,000 square-foot Library in 1999. The collection ofpaintings and sculpture was rapidly expanding and included 15 paintingsdonated by Felicia Warburg Rogan. A renovation and expansion of the historic building was undertaken andthe name was expanded to NationalSporting Library and Museum in 2011.

CollectionsThe Daniel’s collection comprises

a major portion of the Library’s holdings. Other important donations include the extraordi-nary 205-volume Ludwig von Hunersdorf Collection, given

The National Sporting Library and Museum:A National Treasure in Middleburg

Visitors to Middleburg, Virginia, in the heart of HuntCountry, will be delighted to find that the village has a fab-ulous treasure—the National Sporting Library and Mu-seum, one of the premier centers of animal and sportingart and literature in the world. Even more exciting for the visitor, this wonderful trove is open to thepublic and admission is free.

The National Sporting Library and Museum in Middleburg, Virginia.

THE GATE/2012/ISSUE 1 7

by the Ohrstrom Foundation;102 sporting books from theestate of Harry Peters MFH;the famed Huth-Lonsdale Library, donated by RussellArundel and his family; andmore than 250 books fromthe heirs of Capt. Vladimir S.Littauer, who was a renownedproponent of forward riding.The F. Ambrose Clark RareBook Room houses 16th cen-tury volumes on classical equitation, the first edition(1653) of Izaak Walton’s TheCompleat Angler (with 90subsequent editions), earlyAmerican shooting and fishing books, and rare vol-umes of sporting art. The Library is strong in fiction. Inaddition, it houses the papersof Harry Worcester Smith,sportsman, author, and Masters of Foxhounds Associationfounder, and a collection of early American sporting periodicals.The Library’s online catalog of books, periodicals and generalinformation can be found at www.nsl.org. The NSLM is a re-search center rather than a lending library but visitors maybrowse in the Daniels Reading Room.

Images of hunting, racing, fishing, and shooting play an important role in the culture of field sports. The NationalSporting library and Museum collection of fine and decorativearts includes portraits of famous race horses by Edward Troyeand Alvin Fisher, paintings of hounds by Gustav Muss-Arnolt,silver trophies, bronzes by Herbert Haseltine, John Skeaping,and others, a huntsman relaxing in a country setting by JohnEmms, portraits of horses and their owners by Franklin Vossand Jean Bowman, American weathervanes from the collectionof the late Paul Mellon, and watercolors by Henry ThomasAlken, Sr. A recent donation of equestrian and British sportingprints collected by Mr. and Mrs. Norman Bobins, Chicago, ison view in the Founders’ Room.

ProgramsThe NSLM hosts exhibitions, tours, lectures, seminars, and

special events. These convivial gatherings provide opportunitiesthat enhance visitors’ appreciation and understanding of theculture of equestrian and field sports.

The John H. Daniels Fellowship provides selected scholarsfrom all over the world the opportunity to take advantage of the Library’s superb collection to further their own research.

VisitLocated less than 50 miles outside of Washington, D.C., the

National Sporting Library and Museum welcomes the generalpublic as well as scholars. Admission is free. Library Hours:Tuesday-Friday 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. and Saturday 1 p.m. to 4 p.m. Museum Hours: Wednesday-Saturday 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.and Sunday noon to 4 p.m. For more information, visitwww.nsl.org , call 540-687-6542 or email [email protected] National Sporting Library is located at 102 The PlainsRoad, Middleburg, VA 20117.

“The National Sporting Library and Museum is dedicated to preserving,

sharing and promoting the literature, art, and culture

of equestrian and rural field sports.”

The war-weary horse sculpture on the grounds of the Sporting Library honors the 1.5 million horsesand mules that died in the Civil War.

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Just follow these simple steps and you’ll know that you willalways look your best:

• Regular bushing keeps dust and grit from accumulat-ing in the fabric.

• A suit should not be worn every day. After wearing, empty the pockets, hang on a wooden hanger, and let it air dry. This allows natural fibers to return to their original shape.

• The steam from a shower will help restore the natural moisture of fine woolens and remove wrinkles. It’s an easything to do when you’re traveling as well, just remember totake the suit off first!

• If you get caught in the elements and your garment becomes wet, allow it to dry naturally at room temperature.

• Do not dry clean your suit or sport coat unless it’s dirty, and always use a reputable dry cleaner.

These tips can help you avoid the problem of excessive drycleaning. If you have any questions or concerns, drop me anote at [email protected], and I’ll try to help.

Follow these simple tips, and the classic styles and qualityconstruction at Richard Allen Clothing will give you years ofwear and comfort.

It’s really very easy to

keep your suits and

sport coats looking fresh

and brand new, and the

classic styles of today

demand that we give our

clothes a little tender loving

care so that they’ll be with

us for years to come.

A LITTLE TLC FOR YOUR CLOTHES:

How To Care For Your Suits and Sport Coats

Follow these simple tips, and the classic styles and quality construction at

Richard Allen Clothing will give you years of wear and comfort.

THE GATE/2012/ISSUE 1 9

Grace Kelly: The Timeless Style of a True Princess

Grace Kelly—movie star,

real-life princess and, always

and forever, fashion icon.

Imagine having those words

to sum up your life!

Yet Grace Kelly brought to all those

roles a sense of serenity and

self-confidence that raised her

above the stereotypes.

She was something rare in any

generation: Classic and elegant beauty

coupled with supreme self-possession.

Grace Kelly in a classic moment—beautiful, elegant and timeless.

A breathtaking gown from Rear Window.

Her life was a fairytale that ended in her tragic death on a moun-tainside near Monaco, and the grief that ensued proved she was themost beloved princess the tiny principality had ever known. Today,decades after her death, she remains a style icon, so much so that in2010 the venerable Victoria and Albert Museum in London unveileda major exhibition, “Grace Kelly: Style Icon.” The exhibit chartedher star-crossed course across our collective consciousness, andshowed us how a princess is born, not made.

The movie that really crystallized her style was her fourth film,Rear Window, with James Stewart. In that movie she wears femininedresses that fit her beautifully. She exudes a kind of sexy elegance thathad rarely been seen on screen. In To Catch a Thief, she wears exqui-site gowns, some with trains, some with pleats and cascades of fluting,and all of them made with extraordinary care to fit her perfectly inevery sense. In High Society, she wears dresses with fitted shirtwaistbodices and full skirts, and she accessorized with scarves knottedneatly around her neck or with glamorous hats. The colors all flat-

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Prince Rainier and Princess Grace of Monaco,with her eponymous Hermès Kelly bag in hand.

The Kelly Bag

tered her blond elegance—warm yellows, cool, sharp blues,seashell pink, gold, bright white.

Janie Bryant, the costume designer for Mad Men, the televi-sion show about advertising executives in the 1950s and 1960s,has been quoted as saying that “every time I see Grace KellyI’m influenced by what she wears.” The clothes on Mad Men

have received almost as much attention as the plot lines and theacting!

Designer Tommy Hilfiger has also been quoted as sayingthat he also references Grace Kelly’s style, as do Zac Posen andother modern designers. And then there was that other royalwedding—the one a year ago—where a soon-to-be princess,Catherine Middleton, took inspiration from the timeless dressGrace Kelly wore when she married Prince Rainier of Monacoin 1956.

Today we can see the influence of Grace Kelly everywhere,not just in the Hermès bag that is named after her. Whilewomen seldom wear white gloves any more, the dresses, withfull or columnar skirts, remain, as do soft cardigans throwncarelessly over shoulders, the string of perfect pearls, and state-ment coats.

What she seemed to be saying to us was to find what flattersyou, make sure the fit is perfection and then wear it with confidence.

Grace Kelly in High Society.

THE GATE/2012/ISSUE 1 11

Classic style... Elegant Sophistication...

Even in the most relaxed moments, Princess Grace exudes elegance.

A dress from Rear Window, themovie that defined her style.

A gorgeous dress in a scene from High Society. Note the hat in hand.

Grace Kelly poses for a costumecheck for To Catch a Thief.

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The War of the

Hounds:

The GreatHound Match

of 1905

Of all the beautiful places in the lush Piedmont Valley, Middleburg has been heralded as

the heart of the prestigious foxhunting world in Virginia. Though a relative speck on the map,

you’ll find equestrians behind every tree and bush in Middleburg. This beautiful little village

is also the heart of much of the history of America.

standard was met with shock and outrage. The caliber of one’shounds was also directly related to an individual’s social stand-ing, so it was more than just a threat to a breed that was atstake in what would become a protracted and very heated argument.

“The truth of the matter is this–there is no American fox-hound to-day,” responded another Massachusetts M.F.H.,Henry Higginson of the Middlesex Hunt. “What Mr. Smithwants, what we all want, is a hound that will kill foxes in Amer-ica. Now, how are we to get this? Mr. Smith thinks by turningto a lighter type of hound. To quote him: ‘This being the situ-ation, it seems wise to me to allow the Southerners, who haveput more time, care, and thought into the breeding of houndsfor killing the fox than all the rest of us combined, to havetheir type acknowledged.’

“Now, if Mr. Smith thinks this, then why not take the Eng-lish standard? No sane man will deny that our brother sports-men across the pond ‘have put more time, care, and thoughtinto the breeding of hounds to kill foxes than all the rest of us’

Some say the catalyst behind the evolution of Middleburg’shorse and hound culture was the Great Hound Match of 1905.At the turn of the century, Middleburg’s population had dwin-dled to just under 200. The threat of becoming a forgottentown seemed to loom around the empty homes and vacantstreets, until a proverbial “new hound” came to town.

Massachusetts hunt master Harry Worcester Smith was de-termined to persuade the American foxhunting authorities torecognize an emerging breed of American foxhound, far leanerand racier than the existing heavy and hearty English hound.Smith wrote a letter to a periodical called The Rider and Driver in1904, touting the superiority of the Americanized canine, withits lighter-framed, more agile fox catching capabilities.

“Shall we hold to the heavy English type or shall we go tothe racing type, that type which is the successful hound. . . acknowledged by and proven so by our own trials?” Smith, theMaster of the Grafton Hunt (Massachusetts), wrote.

Of course, with resistance to change being so much a part ofthe human character, this deviation from an ancient, accepted

A huntsman rallies the hounds.

THE GATE/2012/ISSUE 1 13

Harry Worcester Smith takes a fence. The Master of the Grafton Hounds helped establishMiddleburg as a foxhunting mecca in Virginia.

(including the Southerners) combined.Why, when they have produced an ani-mal which, for symmetry, power, hardi-ness, speed, nose, and staying qualitiesis unequalled, should we Americans—novices at the game—say: ‘No! Weknow more than they; we’ll stick to ourown weedy sort!’”

To Smith and his supporters, Hig-ginson’s response was full of fightin’words. Indeed, at the end of his rebut-tal, Higginson issued a challenge di-rected to Smith.

“Let Mr. Smith choose a judge, letme choose a judge, let the two name athird. Then let Mr. Smith go to anyfair foxhunting country in Americawith such hounds as he chooses—and Iwill bring such clean-bred hounds as Ichoose and my huntsman and whip-pers-in—and we’ll hunt on alternatedays for love, money, or marbles. Then

14 THE GATE/2012/ISSUE 1

if his hounds kill more foxes than mine or showbetter sport, I’ll admit I’m wrong—but not tillthen.”

Where would this war of the hounds lay its bat-tleground? Weeks of sharp and bitter feuds be-tween Higginson and Smith ensued before anyofficial time and place was declared—this was as-suredly the most important aspect in reassertingMiddleburg’s spot back on the map, especiallywhen Middleburg was chosen as the site of thematch. Because of the media circus surroundingthe two bickering hunt masters and the approach ofthe Great Hound Match, Middleburg was on theminds of all the local foxhunters, elite equestriansand wealthy social characters of the era. The de-bate over the hounds, the hunt masters and thebreeding of the two packs even made it into theNew York Tribune and The Associated Press. This atten-tion snatched Middleburg away from extinctionand the looming fate of becoming little more thana ghost town.

Smith jumped on the opportunity to spin support of the English hounds as unpatriotic. “We

have just enough pride in America to be willing to back theGrafton Hunt with American hounds, American thoroughbredhorses … with saddles and bridles not made by Whippey, butthe best that can be made in the United States of America; thelivery made in American mills by American operatives, fromthe tip of the boot to the velvet on the cap, against the im-ported production.” According to Smith, you weren’t Americanunless you hunted with an American hound!

In addition to the media attention and the ever-widening di-vide between hound lovers, the money started rolling in as well.

The competitors had each put up $1,000 for a winner-take-all prize, and the Orange County Hunt in Virginia sponsoredthe winner’s choice of a cup or a $250 purse. That was a lot ofdough at the turn of the century, especially when the countrywas still recovering from the after effects of the Civil war.

A local newspaper reported that, in preparing for the match,100 horses had been imported to the Middleburg area so thattheir riders from up and down the East Coast could ride behindthe Grafton and the Middlesex packs. Riders from all over thearea came to see the match that would define hound standardson the East coast, and unknown to them, save the town of Middleburg.

In the National Sporting Library lies an unpublished treas-ure trove of Smith’s accounts regarding the actual hunt duringthe event. He was not only a master huntsman, but also an elo-quent writer, demonstrated in his journal:

A weary hound at the end of a big day.

THE GATE/2012/ISSUE 1 15

We started out with 15 couples of grandlooking hounds. … There was little chanceto follow hounds because of the rough andmountainous country, but it was great howall these sporting families loved and appreci-ated a good hound. When the hounds weretaken to hunt, they went to the mountain.Their owners knew from the cry whichhound had struck a cold trail and when an-other joined in. When the cry was redoubledwe knew that Reynard was up. There wasno chance of getting to the hounds–you couldonly figure in your mind where you thoughtthey might come, and, by galloping, obtain aposition at a point where they could come to-wards you in full cry, possibly see the red fox,and hear them go away.

Though a sport of gentlemen, fox-hunting certainly isn’t lacking in dan-ger, and the Great Hound Match wasno exception. At Goose Creek, huntjudge Fred Okie suffered a mishapwhen he tried to follow the houndsacross the water. A reporter recountsthe event:

“Both he and his horse disappeared under the water, andfor a few minutes it was thought that both would drown. After ahard struggle both horse and rider were gotten safely to theother shore.” Harry Smith fell off twice, breaking his foot.There were seven reported falls, and “Mrs. Tom Peirce ofBoston, one of the best riders to hounds in America soiled herhunting coat when her gray hunter Tapps put his front feet in ahidden drain.”

The thrills and dramatic scenes of the match continued todraw attention to the region. One reporter’s precocious prediction tells it all:

“The farmers and landowners have received the huntingcontingent royally. Not only have they willingly offered theirfields for hunting, but have done all in their power to furthergood sport. The Piedmont Hunt has done all in its power toprotect the farmers, repair the damage done to wire by cutting and keeping an actual record of all injuries received bythe farmers on account of riding over their lands. … In thisway a fine hunting feeling is spreading through Piedmont valley, and there can be no doubt that very shortly this countrywill be the Mecca to which all fox hunters will turn for sport.”

So, after many weary days of trailing the wily red fox, whosehounds were declared top dog?

Despite ambiguous results, Smith and his hounds were de-clared the winner by the judges, though this declaration was ve-hemently debated. The moral of this story, however, hasnothing to do with the superiority of either hound type; withoutthis dogfight, Middleburg may not be the fashionable equestriancapital it is today. It was due to the bickering of men over theirdogs that this historical treasure of a town found her salvation.

Henry Higginson believed the English-bred hound was superior in every way. He was Master of the Middlesex Hunt.

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Dressed down Fridays had a lot to do with the demise of“dressing up.” It was an opportunity for us to become muchtoo relaxed, even sloppy, in our appearance. This trend also re-ally damaged the suit and sport coat business in the 90’s. Now,with this youthful “dress up” movement, the idea of putting ona new sport coat with your old comfortable pair of jeans isvery much in vogue. We are dressing up again and enjoying it.

Our wives, girl friends and significant others like it when weput on a sport coat and jeans for a dinner or a movie on datenight. That, in itself, is a winning combination. Dinner, movieand a happy partner—what a concept!

We realize that with the loss of the great retailers likeGarfinkel’s, Raleigh’s, Lewis & Thomas Saltz, Britches andArthur Adler in our area, there are very few stores where agentleman can shop and get some personal attention, builtaround the quality of products as well as fashion guidance. It’snot that those big, nationally advertised retail men’s stores arebad—they just don’t understand that combination and how todeliver it.

Do you remember the days when you could visit one of ourfine retailers, where you would be treated with respect andgiven time, attention and guidance to develop your own style?In these stores, the retailers actually remembered you whenyou returned!

Well, that’s why Robin created Duchessa and I have openedRichard Allen Clothing. We believe you will enjoy creating orenhancing your very own style in an atmosphere that isfriendly and gracious. We believe in the art of dressing welland the wonderful way it makes us feel every time we don thatsport coat or suit made to fit the body perfectly. Please visitwww.richardallenclothing.com and www.duchessaofmiddle-burg.com and ignite your very own experience.

Sincerely, Rick Bechtold

Men’s fashion has always had its moments of innovationand style, but often at the end of the day, “what’s old is newagain.” We as manufacturers, retailers and consumers have atendency to repeat both good and bad styling. For example,consider pleated or flat-front trousers. When I started in retailin 1964 we were selling only flat-front pants and it took until1970 to convince the consumer to buy and wear pleated pants.And guess what: In today’s market, you can’t find a pleatedstyle anywhere. But when you look at the old icons of film likeCary Grant, Humphrey Bogart and William Powell in the 30’s,40’s and 50’s, they all were wearing pleated pants. Look againat Paul Newman and Steve McQueen in the 50’s and 60’s andyou will only see flat front pants.

My point in all of this is that during my recent buying tripat the Men’s Fashion Mart in Charlotte, North Carolina, I wasfascinated by the younger retail store merchandisers that werewalking the show room floors. I felt like I was transported backin time. They looked and dressed just like we did in the 60’sand 70’s. It was so wonderful to see younger people takingpride in how they dressed. They seemed to be developing alook and style of their own, but the look is a direct knock off ofhow we used to dress. So the point is proven: “What’s old isnew again.”

OFF THE CUFF: MEN’S FASHION TODAY

Over my 40-plus years in the fashion industry,

I have had the wonderful opportunity to work on both

sides of the fence—the manufacturing as well as

wholesale and retail sides of the apparel industry.

BY RICK BECHTOLD

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The Oyster: Living Up To Its ReputationBY WILLIAM HANSON

Jonathan Swift is alleged to have once said “he was a bold man that first ate an oyster.” For many people, oysters are an indulgence, something you enjoy only occasionally and as a treat. However, oysters weren’t always considered aluxury. In fact people have been eating them for about 2,000years!

Ancient Greeks served oysters and the Romans importedthem from England. Aphrodite, the Greek goddess of love, isreputed to have sprung forth from the sea on an oyster shell.Native Americans on both coasts of the New World consid-ered oysters a staple of their diets. In the early 19th century,oysters were cheap and mainly eaten by the working class.Oysters were eaten by the tens of thousands daily, and earlyColonial settlers would regularly enjoy them by the gross (144),rather than by the dozen, as is considered perfectly sufficienttoday. It’s estimated that per capita consumption of oysters inthose days was about 10 bushels a year. New York became thelargest source of oysters worldwide at that time—and on anygiven day some six million oysters could be found on bargestied up to the New York City waterfront!

There was even an ‘Oyster Line’ via stagecoach west to settlers who couldn’t do without their oysters. In 1849, somelong ago chef created the Hangtown Fry, a dish of oysters andeggs.

Oysters are considered one of the most sustainable foodsources we have because of how they grow and how they areharvested. They are designated a “best choice” on the Seafood

Behold the oyster, that delectable little

mollusk that is consumed cooked or raw by a

devoted following who would never admit but

may well believe that it’s reputation as an

aphrodisiac is well-deserved. But our purpose

here is to neither defend nor malign oysters, but

to rather suggest how to properly prepare,

display and eat them.Girl Eating Oysters by Jan Steen, c. 1658-1660

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Watch list. However, squeamish eaters may balk at the idea thatto be eaten safely, oysters must be eaten alive, or cooked alive.

Today people most often eat oysters raw on the half shell,with a little hot sauce or lemon. They are also smoked, boiled,baked, fried, roasted, stewed, canned, pickled, steamed orbroiled. Some bartenders make a variety of drinks that incor-porate raw oysters. The most famous preparation is oystersRockefeller, from a recipe developed at the New Orleansrestaurant Antoine’s. Chef Jules Alciatore named the dishafter John D. Rockefeller, the richest American at the time.The secret is in the sauce, which is thought to be a puree ofgreen vegetables. According to Antoine’s, others have tried toreplicate the dish and knock-off versions have proliferated butthe restaurant claims they have never fully succeeded. Sup-posedly, Jules Alciatore took the recipe to the grave with him,but a 1986 laboratory analysis indicated that the primary ingredients were parsley, pureed and strained celery, scallions,olive oil and capers.

However you prepare your oysters, they make an impres-sive display when placed on a bed of rock salt or crushed ice,with a little lemon and parsley for decoration.

The first step in dealing with oysters is to

make sure they are alive. Tap on the shell and

if it responds by closing up tightly, then it’s fine

to eat. You can open the oyster with a special

knife, which has a short thick blade about two

inches long. Insert the blade with moderate

force at the hinge between the two valves.

Twist the blade until there is a slight pop, then

slide the blade upward to cut the abductor

muscle which holds the shell closed. Take

care—both the blade and the shell itself can

be very sharp.

Oysters are supposed to be an aphrodisiac but there's nothing more off-putting than sitting across the table from

someone who's making something really very simple look difficult and inelegant. The rules are simple: oysters are

either eaten from the shell, after loosening with an oyster fork, or eaten from the fork.If the former method is preferred

then it is inevitable that there will be some slurpage from the diner, however this should be kept to a minimum.

Oyster forks are one of the only exceptions to the “forks to the left of the plate” rule—instead you will find these set

to the right of the plate, with the knives and spoons.

As for that aphrodisiac business—a team of American and Italian researchers analyzed oysters and other bivalves

and found them to be rich in amino acids that trigger increased levels of sex hormones. The high level of zinc in oysters

also supposedly aids the production of testosterone. Are they or aren’t they? You decide.

How to Eat An Oyster

WILLIAM HANSON is a tutor with The English Manner, a uniqueBritish-based company providing international training and con-sultancy in contemporary etiquette, protocol, the arts and socialskills, household and event planning. In addition, the companycreates unique travel experiences with a focus on artistic and cul-tural skills development for a discerning clientele, providing ac-cess to some of England’s most important estates, homes andcastles. William Hanson’s entertaining and informative blog canbe found on The Huffington Post.

THE GATE/2012/ISSUE 1 19

AROUND THE VILLAGE

Margaret Littleton’s horse, Atrium, with Carl Rafter up, won thenovice timber race at the Warrenton Hunt Point-to-Point. Atrium istrained by Julie Gomena. In this photograph, taken by DouglasLees, Atrium comfortably clears a fence.

A Winner!Spring is in the air for those who live in “God’s Country,” a

beautiful section of Virginia that has seen 400 years of her-itage and national history—the Virginia Piedmont hunt coun-try. Some think flowers and gardens, some have just returnedfrom warmer climes, some go fishing, some hike, bike or pic-nic, and some just can’t wait for Daylight Savings Time tobegin. The little country village of historic Middleburg iswhere Margaret and Trowbridge Littleton live and the Littletons think of spring as the beginning of the steeplechaseseason, which starts the first of March and goes until June.

Margaret comes from a family deeply rooted in the racingworld. She was raised on a Thoroughbred horse farm and hasnever not owned a horse. Trowbridge, owner of his own build-ing and restoration company for almost 40 years, rode as ayouth but did not follow that path. After he married Margaret,he enthusiastically joined her passion for the equine world.They have raced four steeplechase horses in the last 19 yearsand each horse has been a winner or a multiple winner. Racing is a team effort and credit goes not only to the ownersbut more importantly to the trainers and to the jockeys whorisk their lives in this very dangerous sport. The Littletons arefortunate to have such a team with Julie Gomena, and CarlRafter.

Julie, the winner of the 1994 Rolex Kentucky 3-Day Event,(the biggest event in that sport) understands her horses anduses all of her experience to condition them into winningchasers. Carl is an English native, beginning his career inLeicestershire in the UK. His winning history has made himone of the most sought after jockeys. He knows the pace, theposition, and the stamina of the 30-miles-an-hour beast underhim.

Most recently, Julie has found an older horse that will carrythe Littletons’ racing silks over timber jumps during this 2012 season. This handsome horse, Atrium, won the WarrentonPoint-to-Point in March. The word “steeplechase” comes fromthe early races, when horses ran from “steeple to steeple.” Bykeeping the church steeple in sight (hence “steeplechasing”),the riders could see their finishing point. The point-to-pointraces in early spring in the Piedmont are “tune ups” for themore coveted sanctioned races to follow later in the season.These are the races that offer purse money. Few owners makemoney in the “sport of kings” but the excitement, luck, jointeffort and fellowship is unparalleled if one loves horses. Julie,Carl, Margaret and Trowbridge love horses!

The Journeymen Chap—The Best There IsThere are few things in this world that are handmade any more,

but since 1978, Journeymen Saddlers has been creating customchaps for riders that may well be the best in the world. These chapsare durable and well fitting, and are made of the highest quality,natural, full-grain leather. They are made-to-measure—anotherthing that is rare to find these days. Punkin Lee, owner of Journey-men Saddlers, says that the most important thing to remember isthat with care and proper use, good leather will provide you withyears of service. After each use, wipe your chaps clean with a damp,almost dry cloth to keep the dirt from settling deep into the grain ofthe leather. When oil is necessary, use Vogel’s Leather Conditioneron the smooth side only, and wipe off excess oil. To prolong the lifeof zippers, it’s important to keep them lubricated. Apply paraffinwax or soap to the zipper, then open and close it several times tospread the lubricant evenly over the teeth of the zipper. Treat your

chaps with tender loving care and they could last a lifetime. Journeymen Saddlers is located at 2 W.Federal Street in Middleburg. Telephone: 540-687-5888.

Punkin Lee, owner of Journeymen Saddlers.

Journeymen custom chaps are among the best in the world for fit, comfort andlongevity. They are made with care and a commitment to quality.

A Bit of France In MiddleburgIf you live in or around Middleburg, you’ve probably enjoyed the

steak frites at the French Hound, a charming, Provençal-style bistro at101 S. Madison Street. The building was once a home, and that’s justhow it feels when you walk through the door. Chef John-Gustin Birkittstudied at the New England Culinary Institute and later moved to NapaValley in California. He worked at Bouchon, the bistro of world-renowned chef Thomas Keller. From there he moved to DomaineChandon and finally onto Brix Restaurant, where he eventually becamechef de cuisine. John-Gustin and his wife, Marny, then made the leap toFrance, where they ended up in southern Provençe. When they re-turned, they joined forces with David and Cricket MacDonald, and theFrench Hound was born.

John-Gustin and Marny have created a very special place, wherethey know their customers by nameand are happy to accommodate wishesand desires in any way they can. Theyuse the freshest ingredients, buying lo-cally grown produce and meat as oftenas possible, to produce a menu that is adelight. Lunch is served Wednesdaythrough Sunday from 11:30 a.m. to2:30 p.m.; dinner is served Tuesdaythrough Thursday from 5:30 to 9:30p.m., and till 10:00 p.m. on Friday and Saturday. The French Hound is located at 101 S. MadisonStreet. Telephone: 540-687-3018. www.thefrenchhound.comMarny and

Chef John-Gustin Birkitt

The French Hound

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The Inn Of DelightsThe best thing about the Middleburg Country Inn, 209 E. Washington

Street, may well be the innkeepers themselves, Joann and Kevin Hazard.They love their work and it shows. From a glass of wine as a welcome to thefresh-baked chocolate chip cookies always at hand, this is one of Hunt Country’s most charming and delightful inns.

The rooms, all with private baths, are large and comfortable and namedafter various important Colonial connections. All of the rooms areuniquely furnished and some have Jacuzzi tubs and mini-kitchens. The innhas a charming small dining room where Joann works her magic everymorning (do not, under any circumstances, skip the lemon cake), and awarm and cozy parlor with a fireplace where you can curl up with a goodbook or have a nice chat with the innkeepers.

Best of all, per-haps, is the knowl-edge Joann andKevin have aboutwhat’s happening intown, where to eat,shop or simply me-ander, and they arealways ready tomake dinner reser-vations, provide directions or assist in any way possible to make visitors feel special.

Breakfast is served from 8-9 a.m. on weekdays and from 8-10 a.m. on weekends. Check in is after 3 p.m. and checkout is 11 a.m.The Inn can be reached at 540-687-6082, or visit www.middleburgcountryinn.com, for reservations.

Kevin and Joann Hazard on the back steps of theMiddleburg Country Inn.

Stitch It UpAt Stitch, 112 West Washington Street in Middleburg,

Stacey Norris will instruct you, guide you, or just encour-age you to produce beautiful needlework. Failing that,she’ll do it for you! This charming shop offers everythingyou need to produce beautiful needlepoint pieces, frompillows to wall art. While Stitch has everything a tradi-tional needle pointer could want, the shop also has newand modern designs from the likes of Cartier, Hermes andChristian Louboutin. Customers can buy soy and bamboofibers in addition to traditional wools, silks and cotton.There are tote bags from Michelle Vale, Beirn, Moya andJessica Kagan Cushman. The shop also has custom canvaspainting, custom finishing and classes, from beginner toadvanced. You can also link up with your fellow needlepointers, to share designs, challenges or camaraderie—allin an environment that is welcoming, comfortable andcharming. Call Stitch at 540-687-5990.Stitch is a wonderful shop to simply browse in, but if you enjoy

needlepoint—novice or master—this is the place for you.

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Booker T. Washington once said, “if you want

to lift yourself up, lift up someone else.” That is

certainly the philosophy at both Duchessa and

Richard Allen Clothing, where charity always

takes center stage. Although such a focus is not

usually evident in the day-to-day operations of

these two businesses, the value of volunteerism

and giving back remains at their core.

Both Robin and Rick also find inspiration in the volunteerswho keep Middleburg beautiful and vibrant throughout theyear, but just as they expect more and more of themselves,they also hope that the spirit of volunteerism will continue tospread.

“You always get back more than you give,” says Robin, “ifonly through the satisfaction of knowing that something youdid made another’s life a little easier and better.”

Perhaps the best way to build a culture of volunteerism is tostart with our youngest citizens.

There are many activities to help children learn about theidea of sharing and caring for others, and you can start by pro-moting giving in your own family to instill the value (and re-wards) of giving to others first. Start by setting an example foryour children. Express to them how good it makes you feel todo a simple act of kindness, like helping with a door. Talk withyour children about different charities and let them choose acause that they would like to contribute to.

Begin with a jar where the family contributes spare changethroughout the year. As a family, discuss together on where todonate the money. A yearly tradition of clearing out gentlyused but abandoned toys for those less fortunate is a wonderfulway for children to share.

A suggestion that they give part of their allowance to charitydoesn’t hurt either. Encourage your children to come up withtheir own ideas on how to help. And praise them with a smileor a thank you when you notice a random act of kindness.

But charity—and volunteerism—is about much more thanmoney. It’s about the gift of your time and energy.

The opportunities are endless on places to volunteer. Help-ing out at a food bank, retirement home, youth center, or ani-mal shelter are great places to begin. Volunteer as a family byplanting flowers or picking up trash at a local park. In Middle-burg, we can take great pride in the beauty of our town, but itdoesn’t take care of itself ! You can help in a hundred ways tokeep Middleburg the beautiful, charming and welcoming placethat it is.

Explore the idea of cooking a meal as a family project andthen take it to a homeless shelter, or get in the routine of pick-ing out canned foods at the grocery store to donate. SevenLoaves, our own food pantry, always needs food, and in thistime of economic hardship, that need is greater than ever.Seven Loaves operates out of the Middleburg MethodistChurch at 28 W. Washington Street. Call 540-687-3489 to findout hours and how you can help.

When the holidays roll around, you can make a differenceby taking an hour to ring the bell for the Salvation Army; vol-unteers are always needed for this effort. Want to take it a stepfurther? Spend a family vacation helping out others, like build-ing a home with Habitat for Humanity. It would be a generousand rewarding way to spend time together as a family.

In Middleburg, there are literally dozens of committees, cov-ering virtually every area of interest, on which you can serve—all you have to do is ask how you can be of service. Go Green,Middleburg Humane, the Middleburg Heritage Museum, StudyBuddies, and the Wounded Warriors program are just a few, butthink about what interests you and then do some exploring tofind out what the opportunities are in your area of focus.

If you want to take it a little farther afield, go to www.ipar-ticipate.org and just browse through the opportunities. An-other good way to find out how to volunteer is throughVolunteerMatch at www.volunteermatch.org.

In Middleburg, we have a unique infrastructure that makesvolunteering easy and rewarding. Those of us who live hereunderstand that it’s our volunteers who make the town so spe-cial, and we appreciate that it does, indeed, take a village to getthings done.

VOLUNTEERING:The Best Gift of All

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