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Perth was once seen as the culinary poor cousin of the eastern states, but these days this couldn’t be further from the truth. The explosion of places that have sprung up over the past three years include cool bars, tapas joints, obsessive coffee spots, funky burger havens and produce-driven cafes, producing a food scene with a very distinct style. It seems that to open a new cafe, bar or restaurant in Perth today, you just need to secure a dramatic feature wall, a supplier of morcilla or micro herbs, brown-paper menus and a large white porcelain fruit! Here are some of the city’s highlights.

smart diningRestauRant amuseA stylishly minimal interior of white Eames bucket chairs, double-clothed tables and dark mushroom carpets and walls furnish Perth’s best restaurant. Young couple Carolynne and Hadleigh Troy run things here, in the front-of-house and kitchen respectively. Strong wine matching adds to the 10-course degustation menu (and is well worth the extra $65). The food is among Australia’s best, with dishes such as chestnut polenta loaded with batons of nashi pear and black truffle slices in season,

or for dessert a salty ribbon of caramel buried under honeycomb parfait and chocolate crumbs, with air bubble-filled chocolate and malt ice cream. 64 Bronte St, East Perth, (08) 9325 4900.

ClaRke’s of noRth BeaChKim and Stephen Clarke have picked up accolades both locally and nationally for this BYO with huge aspirations. Steve’s food veers between modernism and French haute cuisine, with dishes such as rabbit croquettes, olive oil-poached ocean trout, or suckling pig pressed in a manner shown

Matt Preston seeks out the best in the west and discovers a food scene that’s not afraid to create its own style.

words matt pReston PhotograPhy BRett stevens

the guide.

Clockwise from left: Matt Preston at the Greenhouse with beer-battered mussels; the smart dining room at Bouchard Restaurant; their pork ballotine with black pudding and apple sauce.

to him by a chef from El Bulli. Little medallions of Margaret River venison come with shredded star anise-scented shoulder and caramelised red cabbage. It’s a great example of how Perth’s isolation seems to let the city’s chefs develop unique styles. 97 Flora Tce, North Beach, (08) 9246 7621.

JaCkson’sNeal Jackson’s food is internationalist but refined, much like his smart dining room. Savoury creations include honey-roasted duck breast or an ethereal freestanding soufflé that hides a gooey egg yolk, while

standout desserts include green tea brulee with a sesame, ginger and cherry pancake. The Englishman’s long-established kitchens have spawned the likes of Restaurant Amusé’s Hadleigh Troy. White-gloved service is led by manager Kjell-Ove Almeland, and there are well-priced bottles of Domaine A pinot and Josmeyer riesling. 483 Beaufort St, Highgate, (08) 9328 1177.

BouChaRd RestauRantSolid French ideas are given a modern twist by chef Todd Stuart in dishes that are long on finesse and fine technique. A crisp cake

of pig’s head is partnered with spiced blood pudding and a bright apple sauce. A silky purse of pasta envelops a salmon mousse with a curled marron tail and is served with a pristine saffron broth that’s poured at the table. A short wine list with both French and local labels, wonderfully sassy floor staff and a terrace with Swan River glimpses complete the package in this smart small restaurant. 42 Mount St, Perth, (08) 9321 5013.

Red CaBBageScott and Hazel O’Sullivan are another young pair helping to make Perth an exciting dining destination. The modern terraced dining room has a designer feel with high-back leather chairs and clothed tables topped with butcher’s paper. Scott’s food is bold and clever, with occasional references to his English roots. A dish of mushrooms, sweet scallops and cauliflower ‘champ’ puree is served with a little suet and beef cheek pudding. It’s rich, yet delicate enough for a spring dinner and is fantastic with a nice local red. Asian flourishes include crispy pork

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Clockwise from top right: malt, caramel and honeycomb at Amusé;

their dining room; Andaluz; Amusé’s Hadleigh Troy; the Perth skyline.

belly on a fragrant watermelon dice, and tempura quail wrapped in nori and served with wasabi and pickled ginger. 49/15 Labouchere Rd, South Perth, (08) 9367 5744.

BistRo felixThe real excitement in this lush modern bistro is the superb wine list curated by owner Jeremy Cariss, which features boutique southern WA labels and the best of interstate and overseas, plus key drops such as Grosset ‘Polish Hill’ riesling. Head

chef Helen Pratt oversees a menu of good produce, simply treated. You might have Rottnest Island scallops, or beef fillet in a sherry glaze. The $60, three-course menu has definite appeal. 118-120 Rokeby Rd, Subiaco, (08) 9388 3077.

Other smart Perth dining options include Must Winebar (519 Beaufort St, Highgate, (08) 9328 8255), and David Coomer’s award-winning Star Anise (225

Onslow Rd, Shenton Park, (08) 9381 9811) for WA produce like Manjimup marron paired with blue-fin tuna and tom yum flavours, or Glenloth pigeon given a Chinese accent with pearl meat, duck-egg noodles and XO sauce.

Rockpool Bar & Grill (Great Eastern Hwy, Burswood, (08) 9362 7777), which is set to open in early 2011, will definitely be worth a look. Or, travel one hour out of Perth to The Loose Box (6825 Great Eastern Hwy, Mundaring, (08) 9295 1787), which exemplifies the best silver service and haute cuisine, while also championing local produce.

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Clockwise from top left: Red Cabbage’s mushrooms, scallops and beef cheek pudding;

Greenhouse; their white anchovy-stuffed olives; Andaluz offers smart tapas plates;

Scott O’Sullivan from Red Cabbage.

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casual diningWest end deliOne of Perth’s must-visits is Justin Peters’ place, where he bakes his own baguettes, smokes his own salmon and pumps out good coffee. The inspired breakfast menu includes a leek bread-and-butter pudding with smoked salmon, poached egg and tobiko (flying fish roe), or morcilla (blood pudding) with roasted peppers and a scrambled egg vol-au-vent. Dinners, held three nights a week, focus on updated French bistro classics such as bouillabaisse with Pernod and saffron. 95 Carr St, West Perth, (08) 9328 3605.

haRvestIn among a cluster of antique and bric-a-brac shops, you’ll find a villa housing an intriguing restaurant. Owner Clint Nolan has a vegie patch in an adjoining vacant lot, complete with scarecrow, so I was more expecting hearty braises than his searingly contemporary approach. Harvest isn’t afraid to use affordable, unfashionable ingredients to good effect. Roast chicken hearts with prosciutto and corn, or a crazy dish of scallops with a spring roll of bone marrow and sangria jelly may sound weird, but taste fantastic. After dinner, nip over the road for a drink at Mrs Brown (see ‘Where to Drink’). 1 Harvest Rd, North Fremantle, (08) 9336 1831.

andaluz BaR & tapasPerth’s old legal district in the heart of the city is becoming a cool destination, thanks to the arrival of several bars and this sleek basement tapas spot. It’s intimate and clubby, with leather Chesterfield sofas and red velvet drapes. Brenton Pyke’s menu is also stylish, featuring duck meatballs, crunchy almonds with juicy mushrooms, and a fine wagyu carpaccio. Partner these with one of the five sherries on offer, or some premium Spanish wines. Basement Level, 21 Howard St, Perth, (08) 9481 0092.

gReenhouseThis bar-diner has a sustainable focus, rustic breakfasts, and woodfired bread made with wheat milled on site. Lunch might include coconut broth loaded with mussels and marron, plus there are snacks of manchego croquettes or duck rillettes – all from talented young chef Matt Stone. Look out for glasses made from beer bottles or display bowls from old barbecue gas canisters. 100 St George’s Tce Perth, (08) 9481 8333.

pata negRaThis is perhaps the sleekest of Perth’s new tapas bars, probably because it’s the brainchild of Star Anise’s David Coomer and Kurt Sampson, who’s famous in Melbourne as the former head chef of Greg Malouf’s Momo. Kurt’s food is as dark and smoky as the bar itself, where you’ll find jars of octopus escabeche, fried discs of eggplant, suckling pig or barbecued quail.

Clockwise from right: Boucla’s Lizzy White; muffins at Pearl of Highgate; Kurt Sampson and

David Coomer of Pata Negra; Daily Supermarket.

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Desserts are a tour de force, with cinnamon doughnuts and Pedro Ximénez sherry ice cream, or a just-set milk pudding with an intense poached tamarillo. 26 Stirling Hwy, Nedlands, (08) 9389 5517.

Cantina 663Chef-owner Michael Forde has worked with Melbourne’s Teage Ezard, but this is a tapas bar where equal weight is applied to the ‘bar’ part. Choose from a perpetually changing menu that might include Ortiz

anchovies and chorizo, or duck liver parfait with onion jam, then let the knowledgeable floor staff suggest something interesting to drink with it, such as a Chilean wine, fino sherry or cava. The breakfast standout is corned beef hash with a fried egg. 663 Beaufort St, Mount Lawley, (08) 9370 4883.

pRonto RistoRante e pizzeRiaThis de facto Claremont clubhouse has know-everyone service and dishes such as fine linguine with clams and mussels or thin-crust pizzas covered with sugo and pools of melted mozzarella. 16 Bayview Tce, Claremont, (08) 9284 6090.

For more Italian, try Perugino (77 Outram St, West Perth, (08) 9321 5420), comparatively new hotspot La Lola (25 Hampden Rd, Nedlands, (08) 9386 5554), or the old-school Da Bruno’s (965a Beaufort St, Inglewood, (08) 9272 3755) for great gnocchi. For a Tuscan lunch, try Il Circolo (22 Angove St, North Perth, (08) 9328 7667).

BaR one RestauRantStop in for a breakfast croque monsieur, lunch of pappardelle with chicken and chardonnay, or a drink among the after-work mayhem. Owner Steve Scaffidi is also planning Sentinel, a glitzy new bar and grill to open down the road. QV1 Retail Plaza, 250 St Georges Tce, Perth, (08) 9481 8400.

cafesvans CafeThis booming, kid-friendly cafe with a pretty courtyard hums from 7am daily, serving up towering breakfast bruschetta and soft-boiled eggs with dukkah soldiers. For the stylish Claremont mums, there’s a souffléd eggwhite omelette with Persian feta, or zucchini fritters with harissa and yoghurt sauce. If you’ve returned from a Margaret River soujourn, note that it’s BYO. 1 Napoleon St, Cottesloe, (08) 9384 0696.

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Clockwise from far left: Rochelle Adonis sweets; Cantina 663; breakfast bruschetta at Vans Cafe; Vince Garreffa of Mondo Butchers; wine and preserves at Vans.

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missy moos gouRmet BuRgeR BaRPerth is in the grip of a burger craze with Flipside and Jus popping up, as well as this blend of cafe and playroom. The burgers are great, from the ‘humpty dumpty’ with the lot, to ‘the cow jumped over the moon’, which has melted blue cheese and prosciutto. Sip on a spider or BYO a beer from the pub next door. 400 South Tce, South Fremantle, (08) 9433 3322.

sayeRs foodMark Sayers cooks and his wife Stephanie runs the floor at this hearty weekend breakfast institution. Try the baked eggs with wagyu or a wedge of potato rosti with bacon, poached eggs and lemony spinach. 1/224 Carr Pl, Leederville, (08) 9227 0429.

BouCla CafeThis little slice of bohemia has good coffee and Despina Tanner’s wonderful Greek cakes. Try a pistachio-topped soufra with filo and rich custard, warm from the oven. 349 Rokeby Rd, Subiaco, (08) 9381 2841.

the danCing goat“No goats, no glory” reads a postcard on the espresso machine at this arty cafe, with great coffee, burritos and simple salads. I love it. 142 Railway St, Cottesloe, (08) 6460 8672. Owners Annie Murphy and Rob Mayberry have also opened Little Willy’s in Northbridge (267 Williams St, (08) 9228 8240), with a bigger kitchen and menu.

milkdPocket-sized dynamo Lorena Tati made a brave leap into this under-appreciated strip and it’s paid off. Milkd is a home away from home for North Perth hipsters. The simple menu offers New Norcia bread topped with tomatoes and Greek feta or a leg ham melt. There’s a second outpost in Maylands, and possibly plans for another. 32 Angove St, North Perth, (08) 9228 8867.

the pantRy dooRTracey Hogan’s place is a good choice for a gluten-free or biodynamic feed. This shabby-chic spot swings between cafe and

catering, with a fine caramel slice, sticky brownies, soups and frittatas. 36-38 Angove St, North Perth, (08) 9227 0077.

RoChelle adonisFormerly Matt Moran’s pastry chef, Rochelle now runs a chi-chi cake shop and caterer in what she jokingly calls the “Paris end” of gritty Northbridge. She also gives cooking classes, and serves a $38 high tea with stands of cucumber sandwiches and Valrhona ‘glamingtons’. 193 Brisbane St, Northbridge, (08) 9227 0007.

sheRBet Cafe & Bake shopIt’s worth a side tour just to ogle Beth Denny and Sheree Davies’ US Southern-style cakes. There’s a handsomely high coconut layer cake covered with spiky meringue, and a deep red velvet cake with cream cheese icing. 206B Whatley Cr, Maylands, (08) 9371 8004.

The CBD is flush with people who are serious about their coffee, like Luke Arnold and John Cumming at Mini Espresso (Shop 50, London Court, 56 St Georges Tce, (08) 9225 5684) or brothers Mark and Adam Lowes at Lowdown Espresso (Shop 16a Cloisters Arcade, (08) 9226 3041).

Clockwise from left: luscious displays at The Pantry Door;

Boucla’s soufra; Kate Webster of The Dancing Goat; Milkd in North Perth.

Meanwhile, Tiger, Tiger (4/329 Murray St, (08) 9322 8055) has a bar licence and a simple menu, or visit Tartine Cafe (Shop 101, Trinity Arcade, 72 St Georges Tce, (08) 9321 3246) for sourdough rolls and an incredible short black. In West Perth, try Garrett Walsh’s Pony Express O (21 Mayfair St, West Perth), or Spring Espresso in Subiaco (Shop 24, Crossways Shopping Centre, Bagot Rd, Subiaco, (08) 6380 2261).

where to shopmondo ButCheRsVince Garreffa was in the news as the first butcher to sell horse meat, but before that he was the champion of White Rocks Veal, dry-aged beef and his own prosciutto. He also runs Italian cooking and butchery classes on site, plus on Saturdays, he barbecues roast meat sangers out front. 824 Beaufort St, Inglewood, (08) 9371 6350.

Boatshed maRketThis place is my idea of a great market – a butcher with dry-aged Ningaloo Station wagyu and Mt Barker chooks; local sardines and ‘Rotto’ scallops; good fruit and veg; and a nice selection of local and imported deli goods and cheeses. 40 Jarrad St, Cottesloe, (08) 9284 5176.

peaRl of highgateNick Niederberger lives the dream of running a “crappy-looking bakery but making the best cakes I can”. Pop into this shop, just a croissant’s throw from Hyde Park, for orange almond cake or a macadamia tart. 189 Lincoln St, Highgate, (08) 9228 9011.

la galette de fRanCeThis neat spot for baguettes, little French tartlets and custardy almond croissants also has branches in Nedlands and Subiaco. 3/35 Mends St, South Perth, (08) 9474 9730.

Also try the New Norcia Bakery (The Cloisters, Bagot Rd, Subiaco, (08) 9381 4811) and Swiss patisserie Chez Jean-Claude (333 Rokeby Rd, Subiaco, (08) 9381 7968).

spanish flavouRsAt the time of going to print, Rosa Galisteo was set to move her small Wembley deli, carrying all things Hispanic, to bigger digs

in Mount Hawthorn. She’ll continue to stock morcilla, chorizo and chipotle chillies, as well as tiger nut powder to make horchata (a milky drink), but the new deli-cafe will specialise in Mexican, Spanish and South American breakfasts. 413 Oxford St, Mount Hawthorn, (08) 9444 6183.

For a one-stop shop for all Asian and Indian ingredients, try Daily Supermarket (527 Beaufort St, Highgate, (08) 9328 9570).

where to drinkClarences (566 Beaufort St, Mount Lawley, (08) 9228 9474) is one of Perth’s best bars, but a bit grungier than sexy new spot Elba (29 Napoleon St, Cottesloe, (08) 9284 3482), which is getting good buzz for its food.

In North Fremantle, there’s Mrs Brown (241 Queen Victoria St, North Fremantle (08) 9336 1887), which I liked so much, I went twice. You can order in from the Flipside Burger Bar next door. You can do the same at The Stanley (294 Cambridge St, Wembley, (08) 9387 4487), another relaxed, retro wine bar with a Flipside next door.

In Northbridge, try Ezra Pound (189 William St) or 399 Bar (399 William St), and come summer, there’s a nice beer garden at The Garden (742 Newcastle St, Leederville, (08) 9202 8282) for sipping jugs of Pimm’s.

City picks include Andaluz (see Casual Dining) or David Gillman’s Helvetica Bar (Rear 101 St George’s Tce, (08) 9321 4422) if your mood is more whisky than wine and snacks.

where to stayWith a glam refurbishment underway and some of the most helpful hotel staff I’ve met in my travels, the Hyatt Regency (99 Adelaide Tce, Perth, (08) 9225 1234, perth.regency.hyatt.com) has 367 suites and rooms from $185 per double.

Durack House Bed & Breakfast (7 Almondbury Rd, Mount Lawley, (08) 9370 4305, durackhouse.com.au) is a pretty cottage that boasts three guest rooms with ensuites. The best has a small private courtyard. From $175 per double, including breakfast. d.Thanks to Tourism Western Australia and Qantas for their assistance. For more info, visit: westernaustralia.com and qantas.com.au.

Clockwise from left: Durack House Bed & Breakfast; miniature tarts from La Galette de France; our writer Matt Preston surveys the city at sunset.

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