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The High Atlas Mountains of Morocco Naturetrek Tour Report 19 May - 2 June 2017 Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0)1962 733051 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk Report compiled by Niki Williamson Images courtesy of Simon Tonkin & Niki Williamson Common Bulbul by Simon Tonkin High Atlas plant by Niki Williamson Moussier’s Redstart by Simon Tonkin

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The High Atlas Mountains of Morocco

Naturetrek Tour Report 19 May - 2 June 2017

Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK

T: +44 (0)1962 733051

E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk

Report compiled by Niki Williamson

Images courtesy of Simon Tonkin & Niki Williamson

Common Bulbul by Simon Tonkin

High Atlas plant by Niki Williamson

Moussier’s Redstart by Simon Tonkin

Tour Report The High Atlas Mountains of Morocco

© Naturetrek July 17 1

Tour participants: Simon Tonkin (leader) & Mohammed Zaki (local guide) with three Naturetrek clients

Summary

A thrilling trek through the breathtaking scenery and fascinating Berber culture of Morocco’s High Atlas

Mountains. It brought us close to the outstanding mountain bird species that the area has to offer, including

Moussier’s Redstart, Black and Black-eared Wheatears, Tristram’s Warbler, Woodlark, Horned and Thekla Larks,

Blue and Common Rock Thrushes, Alpine and Red-billed Choughs, and Atlas Long-Legged Buzzard – not to

mention the eye-poppingly gorgeous Crimson-winged Finch and Seebohm’s Wheatear, which alone were worth

the walk! Butterfly highlights included Queen of Spain and Dark Green Fritillaries, Moroccan Marbled White

and the endemic Vaucher’s Heath. And we loved our encounters with Barbary Ground Squirrels, Agama Lizards

and Day Geckos. All of this was against a stunning backdrop of fascinating specialist flora, some of which is

found nowhere else on earth.

Day 1 Friday 19th May

Simon, Mohammed and Niki met Carmen and Sarah from their early evening flights into Marrakech’s shiny new

airport, and we made our way to our charming riad accommodation near the centre of the medina (old town).

Even as we checked in, chirruping House Buntings greeted us from the open courtyard of the hotel, boding well

for the trip to come.

After settling in we were soon enjoying our dinner - a selection of salads and tagines served on the riad's

delightful rooftop terrace with its views over the city. As we ate, the traditional sunset call to prayer rang out

from Marrakech’s famous Koutoubia Mosque.

Group members were tired after their day of travelling (Carmen having journeyed all the way from Minnesota!)

so after a soothing serving of mint tea and a debate on organic farming, we retreated to our rooms to gather our

energy for the next day’s adventures.

Day 2 Saturday 20th May

We took breakfast as clouds of Pallid and Little Swifts swirled around the rooftop terrace and House Buntings

entertained us with their antics. Mohammed headed out to get supplies for our trek, leaving us to a free day in

Marrakesh. After a leisurely hour watching over the cityscape, spotting Honey Buzzard, Booted Eagle and Lesser

Kestrel amongst the flocks, we headed out to explore the exquisite architecture and bustling souks (markets) of

the medina.

On the way we visited a thriving colony of Little Swifts, consisting of dozens of carefully-built fluffy nests under

archways above a café. We enjoyed watching them whizz in and out, weaving through the arches with great aerial

skill.

We enjoyed seeing Common Bulbul and House Bunting around the gardens of the stunning sandstone

Koutoubia mosque with its archetypal architectural style, before plunging back into the narrow streets of the old

town.

The High Atlas Mountains of Morocco Tour Report

2 © Naturetrek July 17

There is much of interest to see in the medina itself and after an interesting chat with an herb-seller in the market

about local plant varieties, we headed off from the bustling main square, Djemaa el-Fna. We visited the ancient

Mouassine fountain with its 500-year-old carved woodwork and resident Little Swifts, and admired the funduqs,

which were once lodgings for desert traders visiting the souks.

After refreshing ourselves with a cold drink, we carried on to admire the intricate wood and stucco decorations

and peaceful ambience of the Quranic school at the Ali ben Youssef Medersa. On the way our senses were

bombarded by the sights, sounds and smells of the souks, with a myriad of tiny artisan shops selling everything

from spices, tapestries and leather-craft through to detailed metal works. From a starting point of not being that

interested in shopping, we ended up nearly buying the kitchen sink - a beautifully sculpted brass one!

As the heat of the day started to get the better of us, we retired for a relaxed afternoon siesta before rejoining

Mohammed and visiting one of his favourite local restaurants for dinner.

Day 3 Sunday 21st May

Exciting as it had been, it was now time to escape the heat and bustle of Marrakech and begin our trek. The two-

hour drive flew by as we climbed through forested hillsides, picking up some supplies in Tahnout before meeting

our muleteers in the leafy, tranquil village of Asni. Here, over our picnic under the walnut trees, we got great

close-up views of African Chaffinch and Spotted Flycatcher, as well as seeing two Bonelli’s Eagles being mobbed

by an extremely brave Lesser Kestrel.

From here we set off across the river and began our trek up through the hills of Imi Ighoulad, where we soon

started to see mountain birds as well as fascinating flora. We found Moussier’s Redstart and Rock Bunting

almost immediately, and got another stunning view of the Lesser Kestrel’s ongoing battle with the pair of

Bonelli’s Eagles.

Prickly Juniper Juniperus oxycedrus, Phoenician Juniper Juniperus phoenicia and Holm Oak Quercus ilex scrub

dominated the landscape at this altitude, interspersed with a rich ground flora reminiscent of Mediterranean

maquis: blue Globularia alypum and pink Mallow-leaved Bindweed Convolvulus althaeoides grew alongside plants

exclusive to the region, such as the eye-catching purple daisy Rhodanthemum gayanum. We had great views of an

Oscillated Lizard posed atop a boulder, surveying the view.

Moving on over a high pass, we got a brief glimpse of a Sylvia warbler – could it have been the Tristram’s

Warbler that we thought we heard calling earlier? We paused a while at the high pass Tizi ‘n Bour to soak up

more eye-popping views of Moussier’s Redstarts.

As the call to prayer echoed down the valley, we started our descent towards the red-earth Berber village of

Imsker, our camp for the night. On the scree slopes on the way down, we had heart-stopping views of both

Black and Black-eared Wheatears, as well as encounters with some of the area’s fascinating Lepidoptera,

including False Ilex Hairstreak and Lang’s Short-tailed Blue butterflies.

We arrived to find our camp set up by a stream, and spent a pleasant afternoon watching Common Bulbul, Grey

Wagtail and Spotted Flycatcher. Just as we sat down to complete the list for the day, what should fly in but a

The High Atlas Mountains of Morocco Tour Report

© Naturetrek July 17 3

Levaillant’s Green Woodpecker! Perching tantalisingly on a rock for only the briefest of seconds, we barely had

time to get our binoculars up before it was off; whetting our appetite for the following day.

Day 4 Monday 22nd May

Camp life starts early, and today we breakfasted at 7am amidst the sounds of the stream and the mournful

laughing calls of Levaillant’s Green Woodpecker. Setting off, we ascended quickly through rocky slopes, whose

vegetation included Fan Palm Chamaerops humilis var. glauca and the beautiful endemic Salvia taraxacifolia, with its

characterisitic aromatic dandelion-like leaves and pretty mint-like pale purple flowers. Coal Tit, Moussier’s

Redstart and Rock Bunting were numerous now, giving many superb photographic opportunities and making

speedy progress difficult! Barbary Partridge called from the slopes and Black and Black-eared Wheatears

surveyed us from rocky perches.

We took lunch – delicious salads and couscous expertly prepared by our muleteer and chef (also called

Mohammed) - and an afternoon snooze in a shady woodland between villages, where Western Bonelli’s Warbler

sang. Continuing on through fertile terraced valleys, Melodious Warbler, African Blue Tit and Serin were

abundant. Again we were impressed by the numerous butterflies, including Wall Brown, Moroccan Marbled

White and the stunning Queen of Spain Fritillary, flitting through the valleys lined with the bright yellow flowers

of endemic Adenocarpus anagyrifolius.

On the final ascent to our cosy gîte lodgings in the village of Gliz, we were treated to superb views of an

exquisite adult male Blue Rock Thrush, and our first encounter with a cute Barbary Ground Squirrel, busily

munching wheat.

Relaxing before dinner, we had a couple more ornithological treats in the form of singing Corn Bunting amongst

the farmland and a showy male Subalpine Warbler doing the rounds of his territory.

Day 5 Tuesday 23rd May

Today was to be a big day of climbing, and we started our ascent from Gliz with African Magpie and Moussier’s

Redstart to send us on our way. As we climbed through the Spanish Junipers we paused to admire the gnarled

girth of these ancient trees, which are some of the oldest on the planet. They were hosting some great bird

species and we had superb views of Coal Tit, Short-toed Treecreeper and Firecrest as we climbed.

The scree slopes were inhabited by fascinating endemic plants such as Alyssum spinosum with its intricate ‘rabbit-

fence’ of spines and delicate pink flowers, as well as spiky hummocks of Astragalus ibrahimianus and hedgehog-like

mounds of the yellow-flowered Cytisus balansae.

The diversity of Lepidoptera in this harsh environment was astounding, and we added Heath and Dark Green

Fritillaries, Clouded and Berger’s Clouded Yellows, Dark Giant Grayling, Cleopatra and Humming-bird Hawk-

moth to our list.

The High Atlas Mountains of Morocco Tour Report

4 © Naturetrek July 17

The morning flew by and we barely noticed the steep climb up 2600 metres Tizi n’Oukaimeden, passing

Common (previously called Rufous-tailed) Rock Thrush and Booted Eagle on the way, and enjoying views of the

distant Jebel Toubkal, its slopes patched with snow.

We soon arrived at the ski resort high in the mountains. The resort is built next to a group of traditional Berber

buildings, which lie empty during the winter but are shared by local villagers when they bring their livestock up

to the high pastures in spring. The gorgeous flower-rich meadows were splashed with Robust Marsh Orchids

Dactylorhiza elata, and home to a fantastic array of birds. As we approached, we had our first sights of the

stunning Seebohm’s Wheatear and Horned Lark within metres of each other. Throughout the traditional

smallholdings, Rock Sparrow, Black Redstart, Serin, Corn Bunting and extraordinarily claret-breasted Common

Linnet abounded. On the pastures, large flocks of Red-billed Chough were feeding, occasionally spiraling up into

a noisy vortex of 150+ birds.

After lunch and a rest, we wandered out across the verdant valley to visit some nearby Bronze Age rock

paintings, depicting animals and weapons. Passing a large reservoir splashed with Thread-leaved Water Crowfoot

Ranunculus trichophyllus, we enjoyed watching an Atlas Long-legged Buzzard repeatedly taking some of the very

numerous frogs from its waters.

Dinner was again delicious – an egg and vegetable tagine in which the egg is added right at the end to give a

delicious soft consistency – followed by fresh oranges laced with cinnamon.

Day 6 Wednesday 24th May

Today we reached high altitude, climbing up steadily to 2960 metres at Tizi n’Adidi pass. And what a journey of

delights! Seebohm’s Wheatears now vied with Moussier’s Redstarts for most handsome bird of the day, treating

us to countless superb views at the side of the path. As well as the now-familiar Rock Sparrow and Red-billed

Chough, we added a great view of a calling male Barbary Partridge, a singing Woodlark and a fiercely-scowling

Little Owl. A Sparrowhawk catching a Linnet mid-flight provided a rather gory additional highlight.

Mohammed told us he had seen one of our star species, Crimson-winged Finch, flitting round a rock face. This

would surely be the furthest some of us had ever walked for a lifer, so we spent some time looking and with a

little patience, we got fantastic close views of a perched male on a rock and several others on the track. Their

wings resplendent in pink, they really were gorgeous birds and a real highlight to the day.

The elusive Tristram’s Warbler was finally seen and heard by Simon, but unfortunately evaded the rest of the

group for now. However an unexpected Spectacled Warbler bumped up the Sylvia list very nicely. Sunbathing

Day Geckos caught our eyes on nearby rocks, and the butterfly list continued to grow with pretty Moroccan

Orange Tip, and Aetherie and Glanville Fritillaries.

Reaching the highest point of our trek, we celebrated with a ‘Team Atlas’ selfie before descending to where we

could see the muleteers already preparing our lunch. We ate our Moroccan salad and fresh flatbread in a

spectacularly scenic spot overlooking Jebel Toubkal, North Africa’s highest peak. What a perfect backdrop to

enjoy the surrounding mountain birds, which included Northern Raven, Blue and Common Rock Thrushes,

The High Atlas Mountains of Morocco Tour Report

© Naturetrek July 17 5

Horned and Thekla Larks, Black Redstart, Crag Martin, (probable) genuine Rock Dove and a superb Atlas Long-

legged Buzzard.

Descending again to our next campsite, we enjoyed spectacular views out across the valleys and peaks of the

High Atlas. A view of two Black-bellied Dippers for some of the group rounded off the day, and we settled in to

enjoy the sunset over picturesque Tamguist, the highest village in the mountain range, and the incredible starlit

sky.

Day 7 Thursday 25th May

After being awoken gently by calling Common Quail and singing Serin, we emerged from a good night’s sleep to

our customary breakfast of breads, cheeses, honey and spreads, but today with the added excited of fresh

messamen bread from the camp kitchen. These delicious pancake-style fried breads set us up a treat for what was

to be a long but relatively relaxed hike. While packing up camp, we took a break to admire a distant flock of

Alpine Chough and an African Blue Tit busily feeding its chicks in a hole in the building.

On the trail up to Tizi n’Tamatart pass we passed through cherry tree-lined lanes, where we spotted Mazarine

Blue and Lang’s Short-tailed Blue butterflies. Heading out onto the scree slopes once more, we observed many

Woad Isatis tinctoria plants and the silver rosettes of the endemic Thistle Cirsium dyris. We bemoaned the planting

of non-native pine trees in this precious botanical area. Ranks of them have been installed to try and prevent the

erosion caused by persistent over-grazing in the area, and they are ridden with Pine Processionary Moth cocoons.

The native birds seemed considerably less averse to them than we were however, and they provided welcome

perches for Black Wheatear, Moussier’s Redstart and Rock Bunting.

The morning gave Sarah the up-close views of Firecrest that she had wanted, and an opportunity to enjoy the

clamourous singing of a showy Melodious Warbler. Raptors included a solitary pale-morph Booted Eagle, a

Common Kestrel and excellent views of a very crisp-looking Atlas Long-legged Buzzard.

We paused briefly for our daily portion of Mohammed’s Moroccan Trekking Mega-mix, consisting of almonds,

dates, honey-and-sesame coated peanuts, figs and caraway flavoured biscuits, before descending through a Stone

Pine forest. Here there were extraordinary numbers of Spotted Flycatcher, Coal Tit and Firecrest – and, oddly, a

random European Nightjar which churred briefly, presumably due to being rudely awoken by trekkers.

Alpine Choughs were becoming more and more numerous, with large chatty flocks moving around the slopes of

the surrounding valleys. Arriving at the upper slopes of the village we soon realised why. It was cherry season

and they were ripe for the picking! We spent a while watching these clever, gregarious birds, swirling through the

air with their stolen prizes.

We wended our way through the village of Aramd to our wonderful accommodation – a lovely little gîte with a

sit-down loo and hot showers! It was located at the end of the village, giving an incredible uninterrupted view

over the river and mountains.

The High Atlas Mountains of Morocco Tour Report

6 © Naturetrek July 17

After savouring our afternoon mint tea and biscuits, we enjoyed birding from the balcony, bringing us House

Bunting, Levaillant’s Green Woodpecker, Spotted Flycatcher, Alpine Chough, Black-bellied Dipper and Grey

Wagtail.

Day 8 Friday 26th May

Another fine sunny day greeted us as we awoke from a superb night’s sleep in our comfortable gîte. Today we

would explore the valley, with a view to reaching the Berber shrine of Sidi Chamharouch at its heart. Spirits are

believed to dwell under the rock here, and the faithful from far and wide come to spend the night in its tiny

mosque, in the hope that their ailments will be cured. Although we were not allowed to enter it, we spent a

wonderful half hour by the stream that flows past it, watching boisterous groups of Alpine Chough come and go,

and all agreed that the aching in our feet felt a little relieved as a result!

Levaillant’s Green Woodpeckers were heard again and a couple of Black-bellied Dippers flitted up and down the

stream as it tumbled over the rocks. The walk also featured our best encounter yet with a Moussier’s Redstart,

relaxing in the shade of a Spanish Juniper just feet away from us and seemingly unwilling to move! Moroccan

Copper and Atlas Blue butterflies frequented puddles on the path and among the colourful Kidney Vetch

Anthyllis vulneraria subsp. maura and orange pimpernel Anagallis monelli.

Food cooked on the trail had been excellent throughout, but give chef Mohammed a proper kitchen and he

absolutely excels himself! Tonight’s dinner was a succulent chicken tagine with prunes and olives, accompanied

by freshly fried and very welcome chips – delicious!

Day 9 Saturday 27th May

After a last scan from the gîte’s balcony of the beautiful river valley spreading out below us (and a final visit to

the splendid sit-down loo!) we said goodbye to our hosts and hit the trail once again. Today was the first day of

Ramadan, so we set off early to spare guide Mohammed and the team of muleteers the worst of the day’s heat, as

they wouldn’t be able to eat or drink again until sundown.

The first part of the day was a fairly tough climb up to Tizi Mzic pass at 2484 metres, but we were entertained on

the way by Alpine and Red-billed Choughs, Barbary Partridge and Agama lizard. On viewing a Woodchat Shrike,

Mohammed explained that the Berber name translates as ‘bird with a red turban’ which we all liked better! As we

climbed, the slopes around were adorned with endemic Pterocephalus depressus and its pretty scabious-like flowers.

Reaching the pass, we rather sheepishly ate our freshly prepared salad while the Moroccan team carried out their

prayers and relaxed in the shade of the Spanish Junipers. African Magpie and Coal Tit vied for bits of our

leftovers while Firecrest and Short-toed Treecreeper called all around us. A lone second-calendar-year Booted

Eagle was again in evidence. It seems this area is a favoured hangout for non-breeders who have opted not to

journey north.

The second, much easier, part of the day saw us descend steadily to our campsite at 2000 metres, but not before

encountering Blue Rock Thrush, more Barbary Partridges, stunning close-ups of a Black Redstart and a lone

The High Atlas Mountains of Morocco Tour Report

© Naturetrek July 17 7

female Tristram’s Warbler. Today’s Moussier’s Redstart count was 37; or roughly one every 250 metres! They

included several immaculate, confiding individuals, ripe for photographing.

We arrived at camp by a fresh, rushing stream of meltwater, in time to watch soft white clouds flood the valley as

the evening drew in.

Day 10 Sunday 28th May

A relaxed start to the day saw us heading out from breakfast around 8.30am, up through terraced farmland

growing barley, beans and sweetcorn. As we walked past Black Redstart, Coal Tit and the ever-present Serin, we

could already see our destination – a spectacular waterfall around 700 metres up from our base.

Arriving mid-morning, we relaxed around the pools at its base, finding white Aquilegia vulgaris var. ballii, Alpine

Rock Cress Arabis alpina and the endemic Ivy-leaved Whitlowgrass Draba hederifolia in the nooks and crannies

around it.

The gorge was a haven for nesting birds, and we passed some time watching Crag and House Martins on the

wing and observing the different feeding habitats and nest site choices of Alpine and Red-billed Choughs.

Sarah chose to rest here a little longer while the rest of us pushed on up the steep track to the top of the

waterfall, at around 2800 metres. Vegetation changed dramatically here and we found the endemic Vaucher’s

Heath butterfly foraging among the thorny cushion plants. The pink-flowered Alyssum spinosum was further

adorned by dainty purple flowers of Veronica repens peeping through its thorns, presumably seeking refuge from

grazing animals.

A couple of Mistle Thrushes spiced up our return to camp, where we refreshed ourselves with a well-earned mint

tea after our hike - a climb equivalent to ascending Snowdon. As we relaxed before dinner, an adult Golden

Eagle soared calling overhead, completing our day.

Day 11 Monday 29th May

All too soon it was time to begin our descent out of the mountains, starting with a stroll down through some of

the many Berber villages that cling to the sides of the area’s valleys. The terraces here were fantastic for birds

with Rock Bunting, House Sparrow and Subalpine Warbler feeding side-by-side.

Lunch was in a shady glade, watching the antics of African Chaffinches, and while Mohammed snoozed, Sarah

gave us and the muleteers an origami bird masterclass!

After lunch the way was increasingly shaded as we left the high pastures and terraces and entered the forested

lower slopes, where areas of native woodland blended with walnut and cherry orchards. The highlight of the

day’s walk was undoubtedly a male Levaillant’s Green Woodpecker which came in response to Mohammed’s

speculative mimicking whistles, and sat stock still in full view for fully ten minutes while we enjoyed views of its

pale eye, red cap and black moustache.

The High Atlas Mountains of Morocco Tour Report

8 © Naturetrek July 17

We camped in a shady copse just outside the village of Tizian, and provided a great source of entertainment for

the local kids who were excited to practice their French and English!

Day 12 Tuesday 30th May

Today we crossed our final pass from the mountains back towards the lowlands, initially following the road out

of Tizian, up through the terraced agricultural areas where women were harvesting triticale by hand into large

bundles. This low intensity farming was attracting a lot of attention from Black Wheatear, Rock Bunting, Cirl

Bunting and Rock Sparrow, and we enjoyed watching them while we exchanged pleasantries with the hard-

working women. The land here was slightly less overgrazed on places, allowing Sedums, wild Chicory and

colourful Tolpis barbata to flourish amongst the grasses.

We ate our simple but delicious lunch of cheese-stuffed tomatoes and rice with stir-fried carrots and courgettes

at the pass. Here the woodland was thicker and made up of Holm Oak, Carob and Prickly Juniper. We wended

our way down the pass through this landscape, enjoying Moussier’s Redstart and Subalpine Warbler as we went.

Some of the best birding of the day was at the campsite high above the village, where we could look down on the

wooded valley floor and across at the mountain slopes. As the afternoon wore on we watched many Common

Bulbuls, Spotted Flycatchers, African Chaffinches and African Blue Tits in the treetops. Even better was a close

view of an algeriensis Great Grey Shrike and a male Hawfinch in the same tree, a House Bunting singing its heart

out on a nearby building, and a dramatic scene involving a female Bonelli’s Eagle pursuing Wood Pigeons, only

to be attacked in turn by a Kestrel and a Barbary Falcon!

Day 13 Wednesday 31st May

After a peaceful night relaxing to the sounds of Tawny Owl and European Nightjar, this morning saw our trek

end with a brief decent through the picturesque village to meet our vehicle, picking up Golden Oriole and

Hawfinch on the way.

We said goodbye to the wonderful, cheery, hard-working muleteers and made our way back to Marrakech to

drop off the gear, then through the arid landscape of north-western Morocco to our next base at the coastal

town of Essaouira.

Rebuilt during the days of the French Protectorate in the 1800s, this wonderful sleepy town is where Moroccan

medina charm meets Brittany coastal resort, and we enjoyed the late afternoon exploring it before dinner.

Day 14 Thursday 1st June

Today we spent the morning further exploring the charming shabby chic of Essaouira, the aptly nicknamed

‘Windy City’, enjoying the House Buntings, Pallid Swifts and Barn Swallows that surrounded us.

After a delicious falafel lunch, we walked down to the harbor to investigate the thriving local fish market. Among

the fresh catches and lively bartering, we were able to get superb close views of Yellow-legged Gulls of all age

classes, feeding on fish discards. Many more were sat in the sandy cove of an offshore island, and amongst them

The High Atlas Mountains of Morocco Tour Report

© Naturetrek July 17 9

we found Lesser Black-backed Gull and Audouin’s Gull. Also feeding amongst the rocks and along the beach

were handsome summer-plumage Ruddy Turnstones, Little Terns and Common Ringed Plovers. We had distant

views of Eleanora’s Falcons, 1,300 of which breed on the Île de Mogador just offshore.

We rounded off the day with a little more shopping and a buffet-style dinner in our beautifully decorated riad.

Day 15 Friday 2nd June

It was time to say goodbye to Morocco and head back to Marrakech airport, but en route we had a couple more

treats in store. Pausing upstream from Essaouira where the river Oued Ksob starts to widen into an estuary, we

arrived just in time for bath time! This is the area where every day the area’s beautiful chocolate-brown

Eleonora’s Falcons come to bathe and drink fresh water. We were lucky enough to encounter several of these

elegant raptors at close hand as they completed their morning ablutions, as well as Sardinian Warbler, Common

Bulbul and a smart male subpersonata White Wagtail, a Moroccan endemic subspecies.

Between Essaouira and Marrakech we made a stop at a business where local women have formed a co-operative

producing Argan oil. This fashionable luxury nut oil is highly sought after for both its culinary and cosmetic uses.

After taking a tour of the workshop where the oil is extracted and processed by hand, we were able to taste the

oil and sample the cosmetics, and of course buy some products from this worthy enterprise to take home to our

waiting families and friends.

With that, it was on to the airport to say our goodbyes and take home our tales and memories of the culture,

scenery and wildlife we had encountered during our fantastic trekking adventure.

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Tour Report The High Atlas Mountains of Morocco

© Naturetrek July 17 1

Species Lists

Birds (=recorded but not counted; H = heard only; * = Endemic; ad = adult; + = more than; C = about)

May/June

Common name Latin name 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 1 2

1 Barbary Partridge Alectoris barbara 4+ 3+ 10+ 2 2 5 1 1 1

2 Common Quail Coturnix coturnix 3+ 3

3 White Stork Ciconia ciconia 10

4 Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis 8+

5 Grey Heron Ardea cinerea 2 1

6 Little Egret Egretta garzetta 1 1

7 North African Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo maroccanus 20+

8 European Honey Buzzard Pernis apivorus 1

9 Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus 1 1 1 2+ 1 1 1 2

10 Golden Eagle Aquila chrysaetos 1ad

11 Bonelli's Eagle Aquila fasciata 2+ 2+ 1

12 Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus 1+ 1 1 1

13 Long-legged Buzzard Buteo rufinus 1 1 1

14 Common Coot Fulica atra 2

15 Eurasian Oystercatcher Haematopus ostralegus 2

16 Common Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula 10+

17 Yellow-legged Gull Larus michahellis

18 Audouin’s Gull Larus audouinii 1

19 Lesser Black-backed Gull Larus fuscus 1

20 Little Tern Sternula albifrons 30+

21 Rock Dove Columba livia 4+ 2 3 5+ 3+ 3+ c.5

21a Feral Pigeon Columba livia domestica

22 Common Wood Pigeon Columba palumbus 20+ 10+ 2 5+ 5+ 2 4+ 6 8 2

23 Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto

24 Common Cuckoo Cuculus canorus 1

25 Barn Owl Tyto alba 1

26 Little Owl Athene noctua 1 1

27 European Nightjar Caprimulgus europaeus 1H 2

29 Pallid Swift Apus pallidus

The High Atlas Mountains of Morocco Tour Report

2 © Naturetrek July 17

May/June

Common name Latin name 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 1 2

30 Little Swift Apus affinis

31 White-rumped Swift Apus caffer 2+

32 Great Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos major 2 3 3+ 2

33 Levaillant's Woodpecker * Picus vaillantii 1 3+ 1+ 3 2 1 4 2 1

34 Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus 2+ 1+ 2 5+ 5+ 4+ 2 3 2 1 5 2 2

35 Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni 1 6+ 1

36 Eleonora's Falcon Falco eleonorae 8+ 20+

37 Barbary Falcon Falco pelegrinoides 1

38 Great Grey Shrike Lanius excubitor 3 2

39 Woodchat Shrike Lanius senator 1 1 1

40 Eurasian Golden Oriole Oriolus oriolus 1

41 Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandarius 1 4+

42 African Magpie * Pica pica mauritanica 1+ 1 15+ 15+ 10+ 4 3 10+

43 Red-billed Chough Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax 200+ 30+ 20+ 10+ 20+ 20+ 27 c.5

44 Alpine Chough Pyrrhocorax graculus 6 c.250 100+ 150+ 70+ 40+

45 Northern Raven Corvus corax 1+ 3+ 2+ 3

46 Coal Tit Periparus ater 1+ 10+ 10+ 3+ 10+ 20+ 5+ 20+

47 African Blue Tit Cyanistes teneriffae 1H 6+ 3+ 1+ 2 4 3 2 5+ 6 2 2

48 Great Tit Parus major 4+ 10+ 1 10+ 15+ 10+ 2+ 10+

49 Woodlark Lullula arborea 1 4+ 15+ 1

50 Thekla Lark Galerida theklae 5+ 1

51 Crested Lark Galerida cristata 2

52 Horned Lark Eremophila alpestris 6+ 20+

53 Common Bulbul Pycnonotus barbatus 3+ 1 2 3 1 3 3

54 Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica 5+ 3

55 Eurasian Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne rupestris 6 2+ 4+ 10+ 5+ 2

56 Common House Martin Delichon urbicum 1 4 2

57 Red-rumped Swallow Cecropis daurica 2+ 15+ 30+ 10+ 30+ 10+ 10+ 15+ 20+

58 Cetti's Warbler Cettia cetti 3+ 1+ 1 1 1 1

59 Western Bonelli's Warbler Phylloscopus bonelli 1H 1 1 1 3+

60 Melodious Warbler Hippolais polyglotta 2+ 3+ 4+ 2 1 3 2+

61 Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis

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May/June

Common name Latin name 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 1 2

62 Eurasian Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla 20+ 10+ 2 10+ 3+ 3+ 15+ 10+ 1+

63 Tristram's Warbler Sylvia deserticola 1

64 Spectacled Warbler Sylvia conspicillata 1+

65 Western Subalpine Warbler Sylvia cantillans inornata 2 1 1 2+ 15+ 2

66 Sardinian Warbler Sylvia melanocephala 2H 5+

67 Common Firecrest Regulus ignicapilla 4+ 15+ 30+ 5+ 10+ 20+ 2

68 Eurasian Wren Troglodytes troglodytes 3+ 3+ 2+ 4+ 7+ 8 3+ 5+ 10+ 2+

69 Short-toed Treecreeper Certhia brachydactyla 5+ 1 10+ 1+ 1 3+ 3+

70 Spotless Starling Sturnus unicolor

71 Common Blackbird Turdus merula

72 Mistle Thrush Turdus viscivorus 6 2 2 3+

73 Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata 3+ 5+ 10+ 50+ 10+ 2 8+ 5+

74 European Robin Erithacus rubecula 2+ 2+ 2 3+ 2 1 10+ 4+ 2

75 Common Nightingale Luscinia megarhynchos 2+ 1+ 1 1 1

76 Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros 15+ 20+ 10+ 5+ 12 c.10 5+ 2+

77 Common Redstart Phoenicurus phoenicurus 1 1

78 Moussier's Redstart * Phoenicurus moussieri 7+ 20+ 20+ 17 5+ 10+ 37 7 5+ c.15 2

79 Common Rock Thrush Monticola saxatilis 1 1

80 Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius 1 1 2 1 1 2 1 1

81 Seebohm's Wheatear * Oenanthe oenanthe seebohmi 4+ 20+

82 Black-eared Wheatear Oenanthe hispanica 1 2 2 1

83 Black Wheatear Oenanthe leucura 2 2 4 3+ 2 1 3 5

84 Black-bellied Dipper Cinclus cinclus cinclus 2 1 1 2

85 House Sparrow Passer domesticus 10+

86 Rock Sparrow Petronia petronia 40+ 50+ 5+

87 Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea 2+ 2+ 2 5+ 2 3 2 4 4 5+ 2

88 Tawny Pipit Anthus campestris 1 2+

89 African Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs

90 Hawfinch Coccothraustes coccothraustes 2 3

91 African Crimson-winged Finch Rhodopechys alienus c.20

92 European Greenfinch Chloris chloris 3+ 2+ 5+ 4 1 2 1+

93 Common Linnet Linaria cannabina 6+ 15+ 30+ 3

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May/June

Common name Latin name 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 1 2

94 European Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis 10+ Y 10+ 2 6

95 European Serin Serinus serinus 1+ 30+ 50+ 30+ 50+

96 Corn Bunting Emberiza calandra 2 5+ 3+ 2+

97 Rock Bunting Emberiza cia 20+ 50+ 20+ 6 2 10+ 1 15+ 10+ 2+

98 Cirl Bunting Emberiza cirlus 1H 3+ 2+

99 House Bunting Emberiza sahari 3 1 4 2 2 5+ 5+ 3+

Mammals

1 Barbary Ground Squirrel• Atlantoxerus getulus 1 4+ 3+ 1 1 2 4

2 Red Fox Vulpes vulpes 1

3 Egyptian Mongoose Herpestes ichneumon 1

Reptiles & Amphibians

1 Moorish Gecko Tarentola mauritanica 2 1

2 High Atlas Day Gecko• Quedenfeldtia trachyblepharus 1 5+ 1 2 2 2

3 Atlas Agama• Agama impalearis 1 1

4 Large Psammodromus Psammodromus algirus 1 1 2

5 Atlas Wall Lizard• Podarcis vaucheri 1 1 1+ 1+ 3+

6 Moroccan Eyed Lizard• Timon tangitanus 1 1

7 Moroccan Rock Lizard• Lacerta perspicillata subsp. chabanaudi 1 2+ 1 1+ 1+

8 Pool Frog Pelophylax lessonae 1

9 Mauritanian Toad Amietophrynus mauritanica 1

Butterflies

1 Large White Pieris brassicae

2 Small White• Pieris rapae mauretanica

3 Bath White Pontia daplidice

4 Moroccan Orange Tip Anthocharis belia

5 Clouded Yellow Colias crocea

6 Berger's Clouded Yellow Colias alfacariensis

7 Brimstone Gonepteryx rhamni meridionalis

8 Cleopatra Gonepteryx cleopatra

9 False Ilex Hairstreak• Satyrium esculi mauretanica

The High Atlas Mountains of Morocco Tour Report

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May/June

Common name Latin name 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 1 2

10 Small Copper Lycaena phlaeas

11 Moroccan Copper• Thersamonia phoebus

12 Long-tailed Blue Lampides boeticus

13 Lang's Short-tailed Blue Leptotes pirithous

14 Black-eyed Blue• Glaucopsyche melanops alluaudi

15 Holly Blue Celastrina argiolus

16 Mazarine Blue• Cyaniris semiargus maroccana

17 Atlas Blue• Plebicula atlantica atlantica

18 Common Blue Polyommatus icarus

19 Brown Argus Aricia agestis

20 Painted Lady Cynthia cardui

21 Red Admiral Vanessa atalanta

22 Queen of Spain Fritillary Issoria lathonia

23 Aetherie Fritillary• Melitaea aetherie algirica

24 Glanville Fritillary• Melitaea cinxia atlantis ?

25 Moroccan Marbled White• Melanargia galathea lucasi

26 Dark Giant Grayling• Berberia lambessanus

27 Vaucher's Heath• Coenonympha vaucheri vaucheri

28 Speckled Wood Pararge aegeria

29 Wall Brown Lasiommata megera

30 Small Skipper Thymelicus sylvestris iberica

31 Southern Gatekeeper Pyronia cecilia

32 Dark Green Fritillary Argynnis aglaja

33 False Mallow Skipper Carcharodus tripolinus

Moths

1 Humming-bird Hawk-moth Macroglossum stellatarum

Others

1 Blue flash Cricket Oedipoda or Sphingonotus sp.

2 Water Scorpion Nepa cinerea

Tour Report The High Atlas Mountains of Morocco

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Plants

Latin name Common name

Aspleniaceae Spleenwort Family

Asplenium ceterach Rustyback

PINOPSIDA CONIFERS

Cupressaceae Cyprus Family

Cupressus atlanica• Atlantic Cypress

Cupressus sempervirens ‡ Italian Cypress

Juniperus oxycedrus subsp. oxycedrus Prickly Juniper

Juniperus phoenicia subsp. phoenicea Phoenician Juniper

Juniperus thurifera Spanish Juniper

Pinaceae Pine Family

Cedrus libani subsp. atlantica• Atlantic Cedar

Pinus pinea Stone Pine

MAGNOLIOPSIDA FLOWERING PLANTS

MAGNOLIIDAE DICOTYLEDONS

Apiaceae Carrot Family

Daucus carota Wild Carrot

Heracleum sphondylium

Araliaceae Ivy Family

Hedera helix subsp. maroccana• Ivy

Asteraceae Daisy Family

Achillea ligustica Southern Yarrow

Aliella ballii•

Aliella platyphylla•

Andryala maroccana•

Arctium minus Lesser Burdock

Calendula arvensis Field Marigold

Carlina corymbosa Flat-topped Carline Thistle

Catananche caerulea Cupidone

Catananche caespitosa•

Centaurea calcitrapa Red Star-thistle

Centaurea solstitalis Yellow Star-thistle

Cichorium intybus Chicory

Cirsium chrysacanthum• Yellow-spined Thistle

Cirsium dyris•

Echinops spinosus A Globe Thistle

Evax pygmaea

Glebionis segetum Corn Marigold

Lactuca serriola Prickly Lettuce

Rhodanthemum catananche•

Rhodanthemum depressum•

Rhodanthemum gayanum•

Silybum marianum Milk Thistle

Sonchus asper Prickly Sow-thistle

Sonchus oleraceus Smooth Sow-thistle

Tolpis barbata Tolpis

Tragopogon crocifolius

The High Atlas Mountains of Morocco Tour Report

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Latin name Common name

Tragopogon dubius

Tragopogon pratensis Goat's-beard

Boraginaceae Borage Family

Borago officinalis Borage

Cynoglossum watieri•

Echium plantagineum Purple Viper's Bugloss

Erucaria hispanica Spanish Mustard

Myosotis atlantica• A Forget-me-not

Brassicaceae Cabbage Family

Aethionema saxatile subsp. latifolium Burnt Candytuft

Alyssum spinosum Spiny Alyssum

Arabis alpina subsp. alpina Alpine Rock Cress

Arabis verna Spring Rock Cress

Biscutella didyma Biscutella

Capsella bursa-pastoris Shepherd's Purse

Descurania sophia Flixweed

Draba hederifolia subsp. hederifolia• Ivy-leaved Whitlow Grass

Hirschfeldia incana Hoary Mustard

Isatis tinctoria subsp. tinctoria Woad

Nasturtium officinale Watercress

Cactaceae Cactus Family

Opuntia ficus-barbarica Prickly Pear

Campanulaceae Bellflower Family

Campanula sp. A Bellflower

Caprifoliaceae Honeysuckle Family

Sambucus nigra Elder

Caryophyllaceae Pink Family

Agrostemma githago Corncockle

Cerastium arvense Field Mouse-ear

Dianthus sylvestris Wood Pink

Paronychia argentea

Petrorhagia prolifera Proliferous Pink

Silene gallica Small-flowered Catchfly

Silene latifolia White Campion

Silene nutans Nottingham Catchfly

Silene vulgaris Bladder Campion

Stellaria media Common Chickweed

Chenopodiaceae Goosefoot Family

Chenopodium album Fat Hen

Cistaceae Rock Rose Family

Cistus creticus Cretan Cistus

Cistus crispus

Cistus salvifolius Sage-leaved Cistus

Tuberaria guttata Spotted Rockrose

The High Atlas Mountains of Morocco Tour Report

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Latin name Common name

Convolvulaceae Bindweed Family

Convolvulus althaeoides Mallow-leaved Bindweeed

Convolvulus arvensis Field Bindweed

Convolvulus sabatius subsp. mauritanicus•

Cuscuta campestris Field Dodder

Ipomea purpurea A Morning Glory

Crassulaceae Stonecrop Family

Sedum acre Biting Stonecrop

Sedum album White Stonecrop

Cucurbitaceae White Bryony Family

Bryonia dioica White Bryony

Dipsacaceae Teasel Family

Pterocephalus depressus•

Scabiosa columbaria Small Scabious

Euphorbiaceae Spurge Family

Euphorbia characias Large Mediterranean Spurge

Euphorbia helioscopia Sun Spurge

Ricinus communis Castor-oil-plant

Fabaceae Pea Family

Adenocarpus anagyrifolius•

Anthyllis vulneraria subsp. maura Kidney Vetch

Astragalus ibrahimianus•

Astragalus sp. purple flowers

Ceratonia siliqua Carob

Genista cinerea poss diff spp

Hippocrepis multisiliquosa A Horseshoe Vetch

Medicago lupulina Black Medick

Ononis atlantica•

Robinia pseudoacacia‡ False Acacia

Scorpiurus muricatus Scorpiurus

Spartium junceum Spanish Broom

Trifolium repens White Clover

Trifolium stellatum Star Clover

Trifolium tomentosum Wooly Trefoil

Vicia cracca Tufted Vetch

Vicia hirsuta Hairy Tare

Vicia tenuifolia subsp. villosa Fodder Vetch

Fagaceae Beech Family

Quercus coccifera Kermes Oak

Quercus ilex Holm Oak

Fumariaceae Fumitory Family

Fumaria capreolata Pale Ramping Fumitory

Geraniaceae Crane's-bill Family

Erodium cicutarium Common Stork's-bill

Erodium malacoides Mallow-leaved Stork's-bill

The High Atlas Mountains of Morocco Tour Report

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Latin name Common name

Geranium dissectum Cut-leaved Crane's-bill

Geranium molle Dove's-foot Crane's-bill

Geranium robertianum Herb Robert

Globulariaceae Globularia Family

Globularia alypum Shrubby Globularia

Grossulariaceae Currant Family

Ribes uva-crispa Gooseberry

Hypericaceae St John's-wort Family

Hypericum perforatum Perforate St John's-wort

Juglandaceae Walnut Family

Juglans regia‡ Walnut

Lamiaceae Dead-nettle Family

Lamium album White Dead-nettle

Lavandula pedunculata subsp. atlantica•

Marrubium vulgare White Horehound

Nepeta atlantica•

Origanum vulgare Marjoram

Prasium majus Prasium

Salvia taraxacifolia•

Salvia verbenaca Wild Clary

Satureja acinos Basil Thyme

Thymus atlanticus•

Thymus satureioides•

Malvaceae Mallow Family

Malva neglecta Dwarf Mallow

Malva sylvestris Common Mallow

Moraceae Fig Family

Ficus carica Fig

Oleaceae Olive Family

Fraxinus angustifolia Narrow-leaved Ash

Olea euopaea Wid Olive

Orobanchaceae Broomrape Family

Orobanche alsatica

Orobance minor Lesser Broomrape

Orobanche ramosa Branched Broomrape

Papaveraceae Poppy Family

Papaver rhoeas Common Poppy

Plantaginaceae Plantain Family

Plantago coronopus Buck's-horn Plantain

Plantago major Greater Plantain

The High Atlas Mountains of Morocco Tour Report

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Latin name Common name

Plumbaginaceae Thrift family

Armeria alliacea• A Thrift

Armeria atlantica• A Thrift

Polygonaceae Dock Family

Polygonum aviculare Knotgrass

Polygonum bistorta Bistort

Rumex acetosa Common Sorrel

Rumex acetosella Sheep's Sorrel

Narrow-leaved Dock

Primulaceae Primrose Family

Anagallis monelli subsp.linifolia

Anagallis monelli subsp. monelli

Ranunculaceae Buttercup Family

Aquilegia vulgaris var. ballii• A Columbine

Ranunclus acris Meadow Buttercup

Ranunculus dyris •

Ranunculus repens Creeping Buttercup

Ranunculus trichophyllus Thread-leaved Water Crowfoot

Rhamnaceae Buckthorn Family

Rhamnus lycioides susp. atlantica•

Rosaceae Rose Family

Agrimonia eupatoria Agrimony

Potentilla recta

Rosa canina Dog-rose

Rosa sempervirens Evergreen Rose

Rubus ulmifolius Bramble

Rubiaceae Bedstraw Family

Galium aparine Cleavers

Galium lucidum Shining Bedstraw

Galium mollugo Hedge Bedstraw

Galium parisiense Wall Bedstraw

Salicaceae Willow Family

Populua alba White Poplar

Sapotaceae

Argania spinosa Argan

Scrophulariaceae Figwort Family

Veronica arvensis Field Speedwell

Veronica repens var. cyanea•

Solanaceae Nightshade Family

Hyocyamus albus White Henbane

Solanum nigrum Black Nightshade

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Latin name Common name

Tamaricaceae Tamarisk Family

Tamarix africana A Tamarisk

Thymelaeaceae Mezereon Family

Daphne gnidium subsp. mauritanica•

Valerianaceae Valerian Family

Centranthus angustifolius Narrow-leaved Valerian

LILIIDAE MONOCOTYLEDONS

Arecaceae Palm Family

Chamaerops humilis var. glauca Fan Palm

Asparagaceae Asparagus Family

Muscari comosum Tassel Hyacinth

Orithogalum algeriense A Star-of-Bethlehem

Orchidaceae Orchid Family

Dactylorhiza elata subsp. sesquipedalis Robust Marsh-orchid

Orchis mascula subsp. olbiensis Early-purple Orchid

Common Spotted Orchid

Poacae Grass Family

Briza maxima Large Quaking-grass

Bromus sterilis Barren Brome

Deschampsia cespitosa Tufted Hair-grass

Holcus lanatus Yorkshire-fog

Lagurus ovatus Hare's-tail Grass

Potamogetonaceae Pondweed Family

Potamogeton natans Broad-leaved Pondweed

Xanthorrhoeaceae Asphodel Family

Asphodelus aestivus Common Asphodel