MONISHABHARADWAJisaqualifiedchefandanaward-winningauthor.ShewasGuildofFoodWriters’CookeryWriteroftheYearin2003,StylishIndianinMinuteswontheGuildofFoodWriters’CookeryBookoftheYearandTheIndianPantrywonaprestigioussilvermedalatGermany’sDeutschlandAkademieausgezeichnet.SherunsasuccessfulIndiancookeryschoolinLondoncalledCookingWithMonisha(www.cookingwithmonisha.com)andteachesatsomeoftheUK’stopcookeryschools.MonishahasbeenGuestChefatBenares,aMichelinstarrestaurantinLondonandattheIntercontinentalHotel,ParkLane.SheisofteninvitedtojudgefoodeventssuchastheGreatTasteAwardsandhaslecturedatSOAS,UniversityofLondon,about‘TheHistoryandCultureofIndiathroughitsFood’.

CONTENTS

Introduction

1RICE

2FLOURS

3MEAT

4POULTRY

5FISH&SEAFOOD

6EGGS

7DAIRY

8LENTILS&BEANS

9VEGETABLES

10SNACKS,SIDES&STREETFOOD

11GRILLEDFOODS

12SALADS&RAITAS

13CHUTNEYS,PICKLES&RELISHES

14DESSERTS

15DRINKS

Index

Resources

HOWTOUSETHISEBOOK

Selectoneofthechaptersfromthemaincontentslistandyouwillbetakentoalistofalltherecipescoveredinthatchapter.Alternatively,jumptotheindextobrowserecipesbyingredient.Lookoutforlinkedtext(whichisinblue)throughouttheebookthatyoucanselecttohelpyounavigatebetweenrelatedrecipes.Youcandoubletapimagestoincreasetheirsize.Toreturntotheoriginalview,justtapthecrossinthetopleft-handcornerofthescreen.

GaramMasalaSambharPowderGodaMasalaKolhapuriMasalaPanchPhoron

FOODISCENTRALTOANINDIANPERSON’SLIFE.ITISSPOKENABOUTALLTHETIME,ISAGREATICEBREAKERANDISCOOKEDANDEATENTHROUGHOUTTHEDAY.THE

HIGHESTDEMONSTRATIONOFLOVEININDIAISTOFEEDSOMEONE.

INTRODUCTIONIndianfoodneedsnointroduction.Itsrich,deliciousflavoursandenticingaromaofherbsandspiceshavetemptedthemostconservativepalatesandrestaurantsstartedbypeoplefromtheAsiansub-continenthavetakenIndianfoodacrosstheseasandmadeitavailabletoawideaudience.Attentiontodetail,excellentchefs,cleverpackagingandmarketinghaveensuredthatpeopleknowmoreaboutitnowthaneverbefore.

IgrewupinMumbaiwhenitwasstillcalledBombay,amongstgreatloversoffood,thenwentontotrainasachefattheInstituteofHotelManagement,CateringTechnologyandAppliedNutrition,commonlyknownasIHM,Mumbai.Everyevening,I’dbeinthefamilykitchentryingoutrecipesbyblendingspicesandpractisingtechniquessuchasgratingacoconuttomakemilk.Thosewereanintenselyfood-relatedthreeyearsandIlovedthechancetobecreativeandlearnaboutthediversityofacuisinethathadsucharichhistoryandsomuchvariety.MumbaiwasandstillisIndia’scommercialcapitalandthereforeattractspeoplefromalloverthecountry.ItwaswonderfultotasteawidevarietyofregionalIndiancuisinessuchasSindhi,Gujarati,southIndianandKashmiri,throughfriends,neighboursandspecialityrestaurants.IalsotriedarangeofregionaldishesonfamilyholidaystoalmosteverystateofIndia.IremembereatingKerala‘fishmolee’asaneight-year-oldandRajasthani‘dalbati’,arichdoughbreadservedwithgheeandlentils,atten.IstillvisitIndiaafewtimesayearandgoonfoodtrips–drivingoffthetouristtracktovisitmarkettownsandvillagesthatholdthesecretstogood,wholesome,regionalfare.

AsanewlytrainedchefIcametoEnglandinthe1980stostudyjournalism.IhadcompletedadegreeinIndianHistoryinIndiaandwantedtofindawaytocombinemyintereststhroughwritingaboutIndianfood.IarrivedfromthewarmsunshineofBombaytoafoggyFebruarydayinLondon.IknewthatI’dhavetocookaspicedIndianmealtowarmupandsetoffinsearchoftherightingredients.Inthosedays,groceryshopsstillhadveryseasonalvegetablesandallIcouldseewereparsnips,swedesandBrusselssprouts.NotwhatIwasusedtoatall!Thankfully,Icouldbuyacauliflowerandmademyfirstcurrywitha

fewspicesthatIhadbroughtfromIndia.IlearntthatinordertobuyavarietyofIndianingredients,I’dhavetogotoan‘ethnic’areaandsomademywaytoSouthall.Imaginemydelightuponseeingcorianderleaves,coconutandturmeric–allingredientsthatnow,almost30yearslater,areseeninmanysupermarketsallovertheUK.

TherewasaninterestinIndianfoodintheUKatthetime,buttherecipesIfoundinbooksandmagazinesseemedcomplex,withlonglistsofingredientsandmanystepstoachievean‘authentic’Indianmeal.Mycookingwassimpler,quickerandfuss-free.IstartedmycookeryschoolinLondon–CookingWithMonisha–whereItaughtmembersofthepublic,chefsandstudentsofhospitalitymanagementaneasy,manageablestyleofIndiancooking.CookingWithMonishaisavibrantschoolnowandIalsoteachtheIndiancoursesatseveraltopcookeryschoolsaroundtheUK.

TheIndianfoodthatisavailableintheUKisonlyasmallpartofaveryvastanddiversecuisine.Thishastodowithmigration:peoplefromnorthernIndia,mainlyPunjab,GujaratandBangladesh(whichwasapartofIndiauntil1947)broughttheirfoodtotheWestandadaptedittosuitlocaltastes.Disheswereclassifiedbyheat–‘hotvindaloo’and‘mildkorma’–andwerenamedaftercitiesthatwereimportantstrongholdsoftheBritishRaj–‘BombayAloo’and‘ChickenMadras’.NeitherofthesedishescanbefoundinIndia!Today,asmorepeopletraveltoIndiafromtheWest,thereisanappreciationofwhatliesbeyondthesamosaandthejalfrezi.

Inthisbook,Ihaverecreatedacookerymasterclassatmyschool.I’dlikeyoutoconsiderthisapersonalone-to-onelessonwithmestandinginyourkitchen,guidingyouwithtipsandhintsaswecreatetheperfectIndianmeal.Thestep-by-stepphotographswillgiveyouanideaoftechniqueandtextureaswellasthedifferentstagesofthedishes.Pleasebearinmindthatyoucanpersonalisetherecipesbyaddingmoreorlesschilli,seasoningoroil.

AnincreasingnumberofpeoplearenowcookingIndianfoodathome.Althoughjarredcurrysaucesareavailableinsupermarkets,homecookshaverealisedthattheyareoftentoogreasy,overlyspicedandfullofsalt;nowhereclosetotherealthing.CookeryschoolsallovertheworldnowofferIndiancoursesandtheinterestinlearningnotjusthowtousespices,butalsoregionalIndiancooking,isincreasing.PeoplewhocometomycookeryschoolnowtalkaboutKeralancurriesoraBengalipineapplechutneythattheyhaveeatenon

aboutKeralancurriesoraBengalipineapplechutneythattheyhaveeatenonvisitstoIndia.ManytouristshavebeentoRajasthanandhada‘thali’,wherelotsofdishesareservedalltogetherinsmallbowls,ortoDelhiwherethey’vediscoveredthejoysofrichlyspiced,MughalcurriessuchasButterChicken.

FoodiscentraltoanIndianperson’slife.Itisspokenaboutallthetime,isagreaticebreakerandiscookedandeatenthroughouttheday.ThehighestdemonstrationofloveinIndiaistofeedsomeoneandoneofthefirstquestionsoldermembersofanIndianfamilyasktheyoungeroneswhoareawayfromhomeis‘haveyoueaten?’Recipesaretraditionallypasseddownfrommothertodaughter.However,moreandmoreIndianmenarenowseeninthekitchen,especiallyoutsideofIndia.AspeopletravelandTVshowsbringIndiatolivingroomstheworldover,Indiancookeryisreceivingattentionfromnewerandevermorecuriousaudiences.

EVERYTHINGABOUTINDIACANBEBETTERUNDERSTOODIFWEACCEPTTHATTHEREARENO

GENERALISATIONSABOUTTHECOUNTRY.EVERYFEWMILES,THELANGUAGE,FOOD,DRESSANDWAYSOFLIFECHANGEANDITISALANDOFBOTHSIMILARITIESAND

GREATCONTRASTSHELDTOGETHERBYAGEOGRAPHICALBOUNDARY.

LOCALFOODSAREATTHEHEARTOFREGIONALCOOKING.ININDIA’STOWNSANDVILLAGES,FRESHFOODISBOUGHTDAILYFROMFARMERS’MARKETSANDEVERYTHING

THATISCOOKEDISCONSUMEDONTHESAMEDAY.

DIVERSITYININDIANCOOKINGIhaveaddressedregionalvariationsbylooselydividingthecountryintonorth,north-east,south,westandeast,althoughnosuchdivisioncancovertheentiretyofIndiancooking,asthatmaytakealifetimeoftravel,researchandexperimentation!

Thisdiversitycanbebetterunderstoodbyexploringfouraspects.

Climate→InthehotterregionsofIndiasuchasinthesouth,whichisclosetotheEquator,orinRajasthan,partofwhichisdesert,foodsneedtobecooling.Withintherepertoireofspices,chilliesareconsideredcoolingasthecapsaicininthemmakesyousweat.Thiscoolsthebodydown,andthereforefoodsfromtheseregionsareveryhotandspicy,unlikeinthenorth,whichcanbecoldandthereforeusesalotofgarammasala,awarmingspiceblend.

Geography→Localfoodsareattheheartofregionalcooking.PeoplelivingalongIndia’s4,000-milecoastlineeatseafoodcombinedwithfoodssuchascoconut,whichcommonlygrowthere.AGoanfishcurrymostoftenhaspomfret,aseafish,gentlysimmeredinatangy,spicycoconutcurry.InthefieryheatoftheRajasthandesert,waterisscarceandfoodsarethereforeoftencookedinmilk.

Religion→Almost35percentofIndiansarevegetarian,mainlyforreligiousreasons.HindusdonotgenerallyeatbeefandtheMuslimpopulationdoesnoteatpork.InanIndianhome,non-vegetarianmealsareservedonlyacoupleoftimesaweekandtheseusuallyincludechicken,fishormutton,whichinIndiaisgoatmeatandnotlamb.WhenIndiandishesareadaptedfortheWesternworld,lambreplacesgoat.Thecostofthesenon-vegetarianfoodsandthetropicalheatmeanthatfamilymealsareusuallylighterandleantowardsvegetariandishes.VegetarianisminIndiahasitsrootsintworeligions–JainismandBuddhism–althoughmanyBuddhistsinIndiadoeatmeat.Theirreligionallowsthemtoeatwhateverisofferedtothemaslongastheyhavenotwitnessedtheslaughteroftheanimal.TheJainsfollownon-violencefurtherbynotevenconsumingroot

vegetablessuchasonionsandgarlicthatmayleadtothedestructionoflifeduringharvesting.

Foreigninfluences→ThesehavehadalargeparttoplayinshapingthemoderncuisineofIndia.TheGreeks,Chinese,Mughals,Portuguese,Dutch,FrenchandtheBritishbroughttheirowncuisines,ingredientsandcookingtechniquestoIndiaandtookdeliciouslyspicyrecipesalongsidespiceswhentheyreturnedhome.TodayblackpepperisusedtoflavournotjustIndianfoodbutmanycuisinesallovertheworld.ManyingredientsthatIndiancookingisbasedon–chillies,tomatoesandpotatoes–wereintroducedtoIndiabythePortugueseonlyabout500yearsago.AccordingtoT.R.Gopalakrishnan’sbookVegetableCrops,theBritishintroducedcauliflowersandcabbagestoIndiain1822.BritishvarietiesweregrowninMay/JunewhenIndiaenjoyssummerandthusthesecauliflowersadaptedtothehotandhumidconditionsoftheirnewenvironment.

THEREGIONSIhavealwaysfounditquitehardtodivideIndiaupintoregions.Thereisapoliticaldivisionthat’sfollowedbythegovernmentbutItendtolookatthecountryfromaculinaryperspective.I,therefore,almostdrawacrossthroughthecentreandaddresseachquarterasaregion,withtheadditionofthenorth-eastwhichisuniqueinitself.

TheNorth

PUNJABAlargenumberofIndianswholiveoutsideofIndiaarePunjabiinorigin.Inmanyfamilies,ancestorsseveralgenerationsagoleftIndiainsearchofbettereconomicprospectsandanewwayoflife.TheycarriedwiththemthecultureofIndiasomuchsothattodayinmanypartsoftheworldwhenonetalksofIndiancooking,itisPunjabifoodthatisbeingreferredto.Richonion-andtomato-flavouredcurries,orthedelicioustandoorifoodsthatarecookedslowlyinaclayovencalledthetandoor,originateinPunjab.ThePunjabis,boththeHindusandtheSikhs,lovetocelebratewithfood,drinkanddancingandtheirfeastsarelegendary.ItissometimessaidthatbecausemuchofPunjabisagricultural,thecookinghereisratherunsophisticated.Infact,mostIndianslovePunjabicookingandrestaurantsinthisstyledogreatbusinessineveryIndiantownandcity.Mostnon-Punjabisthinkofthisheartycuisineasbeinganoccasionaltreatandlookforwardtoameallacedwithgheeandaccompaniedbyfriedtreatssuchassamosasandpakoras.IngredientsthatyouwouldcommonlyfindinaPunjabikitchenaremeatandchicken,beanssuchaschickpeasandredkidneybeans,blacklentils,vegetablessuchascauliflower,potatoes,peasandturnipsandwholewheatflourtomakemanykindsofbreads.

UTTARPRADESHTwoofIndia’smostsacredHinducitieslieinthisstate.VaranasiandAllahabadarethrongedwithpilgrimseachyearanditisnotsurprisingthatUttarPradeshhasarichandvariedvegetariancuisine.All

religiousfoodinIndiamustincludeonlythoseingredientswhichareconsideredacceptableor‘sattvik’.Theseincludegrains,spices,naturallyripenedfruitandvegetablesandmilk.Anawarenessofwhatisandwhatisnotacceptableisinculcatedineachgenerationthroughupbringing.However,UttarPradeshdoeshaveanon-vegetarianrepertoireoffoodaswell.Corianderandcuminarefavouredspices,whilelegumesandpulsesformthebaseofmanycurries.

Oneofthemostfamousstylesofcookingthatoriginatesfromthisstateisthe‘Awadhi’stylefromLucknow(orAwadh,asitwasearlierknown).UntilnearlythemiddleofthetwentiethcenturyitwasaprincelystatewithNawabsasrulers.Theirfeastswererenownedandeventodaythe‘DumPukht’technique,whichliterallymeans‘tochokeoffthesteam’isconsideredanimportantskillinanyAwadhichef’srepertoire.Thisisatechnique,usedtomakebiryanisandrichcurriessuchasakorma,whereapotissealedwithdoughmadefromchapattiflour(atta)andwater.Atight-fittinglidensuresthatnosteamcanescapeandthatalltheflavourisretainedinthefood.Often,thisdishwouldbeplacedoncoalsandslow-cookedforafewhours.Livecoalswouldalsobeplacedonthelidsothatheatwasprovidedfromaboveaswellasfrombelow.Onestorysaysthat200yearsagoNawabAsaf-ud-Daulahbegantheconstructionofahugeedifice,theBaraImambara(whichisthemostimportantattractioninLucknowtodayandissaidtohavethebiggestvaultedhallintheworld).Hewoulddestroyapartoftheday’sbuildingworkatnightsothathisworkerswouldbeincontinuousemployment.Foodfortheworkersconsistedofrice,meatandvegetablesandasthiswasrequireddayandnight,itwasputinapotandsealedwithdoughtobeslowcookedallthetime.Oneday,theNawabtastedthismeal,foundittrulydeliciousandhaditadoptedintotheroyalkitchens.Awadh’smostfamousruler,theartisticWajidAliShah(1847–56)issaidtohaverefinedthetechniquefurtherbyaskinghiscookstoinventnewandexcitingdishestotempttheroyalpalate.Allsortsoffinedishes,suchassucculentbiryanisandlambcurriescalled‘nihari’,aremadeinthedumpukhtstyleandspecialityrestaurantsinmanyfive-starhotelsaroundthecountryspecialiseinthiscuisine.In1999,somedistrictswereseparatedintoanewstate,Uttarakhand.

KASHMIRDuetoitsproximitytotheHimalayas,KashmirwasthenaturalpassagetoIndiaformanyinvaders.ItscuisineisthereforeamixofIndian,PersianandAfghanstyles.TherearetwodistinctcommunitieswholiveinKashmir–theMuslimsandtheHinduBrahminswhoareknownas‘KashmiriPundits’.ThePunditsareoneofthefewmeat-eatingBrahmincommunitiesinIndiaalthoughbeefisstrictlytaboo.TheircookingisbasedoningredientssuchasyogurtandasafoetidawhereastheMuslimsusegarlicandKashmirishallotscalled‘praan’.ThecuisineofKashmiralsomakesthemostofthelocalproducesuchaswalnuts,driedapricotsandpistachios.Spicessuchasdriedgingerpowder,fennelpowderandKashmirisaffronareused.Yogurtformsthebaseformanycurries.ThetruecookingofKashmircanbeseenintheWazawanstyle,whichisfragrantwithspicesincludingcardamom,clovesandcinnamon.Eventoday,themasterchefsofKashmirarethedescendantsofthetraditionalchefsfromSamarkand,theWazas.TheoriginalWazascametoIndiawiththerulerTimurwhenheenteredIndiainthefifteenthcentury.TheroyalWazawan,comprisingof36courses,isafeastthatfewcangetthroughandisthereforeservedonlyatspecialoccasionslikeweddings.Themealbeginswiththeritualofwashingthehands,thenthedishes(‘tramis’)filledwithfoodbegintoarrive.Theentréesareeatenwithasticky,densevarietyofricewhichisprized.MuchoftheWazawanismeat-basedasthisisasignofaffluence,butvegetariandisheswithlotusrootorpotatoesarealsoserved.ThemealiswasheddownwithKahwateawhichisflavouredwithsaffron,cinnamonandalmonds.

DELHINewDelhiisthecapitalofIndiaandhasacosmopolitanpopulationofpoliticians,diplomatsandbusinessofficials.ThecuisinereflectsthediversityofitspeopleandavarietyofstylesfromtherichPunjabitothevegetarianBaniaandthenon-vegetarianKayasthacoexist.Specialityfoodquartersarelinedwithstallssellingtandoorifoods,crispsamosasandsyrupysweetsbut,aseveningturnstodusk,thecity’srichandfamousdressupintheirbestsilkstoattendcountlesscocktailanddinnerparties.Alcoholisservedfreelyatthesepartiesandthefoodisamixofstylesfromaroundtheworld,eachtemptingthegourmetwithnewerandfanciercreations.

Delhiisfamousforits‘Mughlai’cooking,alegacyoftheMughalrulerswho

reignedoveralargepartofIndiafromDelhi,theircapital,beforetheBritishtookover.TheofficiallanguageoftheMuslimrulersofthisdynastywasPersianaswerethenamesofdishessuchasbiryani,kebabsandkoftas,whicharestillinuse.Dishespreparedintheimperialkitchens–meatsinbutterysauces,amedleyofseasonalvegetablesflavouredwithexoticingredientssuchaswhitecumin,driedplumsandpomegranateseeds,andfruitandrose-flavouredsweets–haveinfluencedarichandfestivecuisinethatisstillmuchlovedtoday.

TheWest

RAJASTHANRajasthan,whichliesintheTharDesertofIndia,isalsocalledthe‘LandofPrinces’becauseofthemanyprincelykingdomsthatexistedherebeforeIndiabecameindependentfromBritishrulein1947.Inalltheroyal

kitchensofRajasthan,thepreparationoffoodwasraisedtothelevelsofanartform.The‘Khansamas’orroyalcookswereartistswhoguardedtheirrecipeswithavengeanceandpassedthemdownonlytoaworthysuccessor.

EverydayRajasthanicookingwasdesignedforthewar-likelifestyleofmedievalRajasthanwhenwarlordsspentmanydaysawayfromhome,inbattle.Alsobeinganariddesert,theavailabilityofingredientsoftheregionwaslimited.Foodthatcouldremainunspoiltforseveraldaysandcouldbeeatenwithoutheatingwaspreferred,moreoutofnecessitythanchoice.Thescarcityofwater,freshvegetablesanddelicatespiceshashaditseffectonthecookingofthisstate.MostfoodsinthishotregionarestillcookedingheeasitisconsideredcoolinginAyurveda.

InthedesertbeltofJaisalmer,BarmerandBikaner,chefsuselesswaterandmoremilk,buttermilkandghee.AspecialfeatureofRajasthanicookingistheuseofamchoor(mangopowder)thatmakesupforthescarcityoftomatoesinthedesert,andasafoetida,thatflavourscurriesthatdonothaveonionsandgarlic.

Generally,mostbrightredRajasthanicurrieslookspicierthantheyactuallyare–MathaniachilliesfromnearJodhpurweretraditionallyusedforcolourandauniqueflavourthatwasearthyratherthansimplyhot.TheproductionofthesechillieshasdecreasedinthepastfewyearsandcooksnowsubstitutethesewiththemorereadilyavailableKashmiridriedredchillies.

GUJARATGujaratisthemango-shapedstatetothewestofIndia.Itsnorthernregionisfamousforitsdelicate,vegetariancuisineandmostespeciallyforthe‘thali’–ametalplatewithseveralsmallbowlsfilledwithanarrayoftemptingdishes.Thethalihasrice,breads,friedaccompanimentscalled‘farsans’,vegetables,lentilsandsweetsallservedatonce.

EvenwithinGujarat,thecuisineisvariedwithinthedifferentareas.Someareasaredrierthanothers,withlessrainfall.KathiawariandKachchifoodbothuseredchillipowdertocreateheat.Inthesouthernpartofthestate,greenchilliesareused,mostoftenwithfreshginger.InSurat,sugarisaddedtomostdishes,evenlentilsandvegetables,andmuchofthecuisinehasasweet,tangyflavour.

GujaratwasalsohometotheBohriMuslimcommunitywhomigratedtoMumbaiinlargenumbers.TheircookingisamixofthelocalGujaratiwith

Mumbaiinlargenumbers.TheircookingisamixofthelocalGujaratiwithIslamicovertonessuchastheinclusionofmeatanddatesandsomeofthedelicaciessuchas‘lambapau’,asmoky,wood-bakedbreadthatcannowbeeatenonlyinexclusiveeateries.

MAHARASHTRAMaharashtraliestothewestofIndiaandhasalongcoastlinealongtheArabianSea.Manycommunitieslivehere–differentsectsofMaharashtriansandthesettlerswhocamefromotherstates.

NativeMaharashtriancookinghasmanystyles–thePuneBrahminstylewithitssweet,simpleflavouringsanduseofpeanuts,thefierycurriesoftheDeccanPlateauandthecoconutandtamarindflavouringsofthecoastalareas.Thestategrowsalargevarietyofcropssuchaspeanuts,coconut,riceandmangoes.Themostsought-aftermangoinIndia,the‘Alphonso’,isgrownhereinRatnagiri.

ThebiggestcityinthestateisMumbai,whereIwasborn.Thisisacosmopolitancitydottedwithrestaurantsservingupeverytypeofregionalcuisine.HalfofmyfamilyisMaharashtrianandIgrewupeatingcurrieswithcoconutandpepper.TheParsiswhocamefromPersiaandsettledinGujaratlatermovedtoMumbai.TheircookingisamixofIranianandHinduandoutofrespecttothelocalcommunity,theydonoteatbeef.Theircookingisexemplifiedbythesweetandsourdhansak,athickcurrymadewithlentilsandvegetablesflavouredwithspicesandvinegar,stewsanddessertcustards.

TheSindhicommunitymigratedfromPakistanandmanyofthemsetuphomesinMumbai.Theyareknownfortheirloveoffoodandtheircookingisfreshandflavourful.Leafyvegetablesflavouredwithcumin,friedbreadsandspicedlentilswithgarlicarespecialities.

MADHYAPRADESHThisstateliesatthecentreofIndiaandthereforethecookingisinfluencedbyallthesurroundingstates,mostimportantly,byGujaratandMaharashtra.MP,asitisknown,hasagreatcultureofhospitalityandIhaveneverbeentoanyotherplaceintheworldwherethepeopleeatandofferotherssomuchfood.Thereseemtobesixmealsaday–breakfast,elevenses,lunch,tea,dinnerandsupperwithmany‘munchings’inbetween!

MuchofMPhasHinducooking.Indoreisfamousforitspickleshopsthatsellpreservedfruitandvegetables.InIndore,thelocalhighstreetturnsintoafood

lanecalledthe‘sarafa’aftertheshopscloseandeverynightpeoplestrollalongthisroadtoeatfreshsamosasandhotsweetjalebisandtodrinkwarmnut-flavouredmilk.Bhopal,thecapital,isanexception.RuledformanyyearsbyaMuslimruler,thecuisineisamixofIslamicandHindustyles.Kebabsandbiryanissitnexttosimplestir-friesandfreshbreads.

TheSouth

TAMILNADUTamilNaduissituatedontheeasterncoastofIndiabytheBayofBengal.ThisstatehassomeoftheoldestandmostfamousofallHindutemples,suchastheNatarajatempleinChidambaramandtheBrihadeeshwaratempleatTanjore.Tamilcultureisresplendentwithclassicalliteratureanddance,fascinatingbronzesculptureandaweinspiringarchitecture.Chennaiisthecapitalandishometosomeofthefinestartistsandartisansinthecountry.Amealhereismainlymadeupofriceservedinthreedifferentcourses.Firstwithsambhar,athicklentildishthatisflavouredwithfreshvegetables,thenwithrasam,athinnerversionofthesambharandonethatisslurpedupalongwiththerice(agreatexperience!)andfinallywithyogurtandricetocooloneinthestrongsouthernheat.Otherricepreparationsincludecoconutrice,tamarindrice,lemonriceandcountlessotherflavouringsthatprovidevarietyandtaste.Blackpepper,redchillies,cumin,turmeric,coriander,fenugreekandmustardseedsareusedincookingvegetablessuchasplantains,yams,gourdsandgreens.

ANDHRAPRADESHSituatedinthecentralsouth,AndhraPradeshisacombinationofHinduandMuslimcookery.BeforethepartitionofIndiaandPakistanin1947,thecityofHyderabadwasruledbytheNizam,amanreputedtobethewealthiestpersonintheworldatthetime.Hiskitchensproducedsomeoftherichestandtastiestfareandmanyofhisfavouritedisheshavebecometrademarkrecipesoftheregionsuchastherichdessert‘Khubanikameetha’,wherestewedIndianapricotsareservedwithnuts,creamandspices.Hyderabadicookeryischaracterisedbyslow-cookingmethods.

AnAndhramealisalsoservedincourses.InHyderabad,itistheMughlaisetofcourses,repletewithkebabsandbiryanis.Inotherpartsofthestate,thefoodismainlyvegetarianandagain,riceformsastaplepartofthediet.AndhraPradeshismostfamousforitspicklesandmanychutneysthataremadefromjustaboutanything–frommangoes,auberginesandtomatoestogingerand‘gongura’,anaromatic,localreddish-greenleafyvegetable.ThefoodofAndhraPradeshisknownforitschilliheat!InFebruary2014,theAndhraPradeshReorganisationActdividedthisstateintwo–AndhraPradeshandTelangana.

KARNATAKAKarnatakahasgivenIndiaaclassicrestaurantstyle.Udipi,asmalltempletown,isfamousforitsBrahmincooks.Thetownhasabeautiful,ancientKrishnatempleandtheBrahminswillfirstofferallcookedfoodtothegodsbeforeservingittodevotees.Pancakescalled‘dosas’,ricecakescalled‘idlis’andlusciouschutneysaremadeinUdipiandtinycafésthatservesuchfood(calledUdipirestaurants)arepopular.Theyservevegetarianfood.Coconuts,tamarind,beansandkokum,asourpurplefruitareusedinthecooking.Intheseparts,coconut(called‘Shriphal’)isconsideredthefruitofthegods.Everypartofthecoconuttreeisuseful–thefruitiseaten,thewaterwithinisdrunk,theleavesareusedforroofingandthehuskontheoutsideofthefruitismadeintoscouringtools.InHinduism,thecoconutisacomplete,specialfruit–onethatcanbeusedinitsentirety,inmanydifferentwaysandisthereforeusedinritualworship.ThehardoutershellandthesoftinteriorsymboliseaHinduwayoflifewhereonemustbeimpervioustothedifficultiesofdailylifewhilestillmaintaininganinnercalmandbalance.

Manyofmyancestors,whoareSaraswatBrahmins,comefromKarnatakaandasachildIwouldspendmysummersinthelittlevillageofGokarnjustoffthecoast.Iremembereatingfreshcurriesflavouredwithcorianderandcumin,roomfulsofmangoesandmanyunusualdishesmadewithjackfruitandbreadfruit.Wewouldwaitforthebreadfruittofalloffthetreesandthenmyauntwouldpeelandsliceit,rubitwithchilliandsaltanddeep-frytheslices.Purejaggeryorasliceofstarfruitwasoftenhandedoutafterdinnerandsomeofmybestchildhoodmemoriesareofstoningtamarindtreestogetatthesour-sweetfruit!

MeccaMasjidmosque(Charminar),Hyderabad,AndhraPradesh.

KERALATheservingofamealisanartforminthisstate.Traditionally,abananaleafisusedasaplateandallcoursesareservedatonce.Rice,lentils,vegetables,chutneys,crispaccompanimentsandsweets,flavouredwithcoconut,formafragrantfeast.Curryleavesandmustardseedsareusedtotempermanydishes.Preparationssuchasthorans(vegetablestir-fries),sambhar(lentilswithtamarind)anddishescookedwithplantains,yamsandcabbagesarepopular.CabbagesaregrownalloverIndiaduetotheirneutraltaste,whichcanbecombinedwithavarietyofspices.

Keralahasmanycommunitiesandthereforehasagreatmixofcuisines.SyrianChristians,MalabarMuslims,JewsfromCochinandHindusallliveandworkpeacefullyandshareaculturethatisvibrantandyetgentle.ThisisthestatewhereAyurvedahasbeenpreservedforcenturies,awayfromforeignconquestsandinterference,andisstillpractisedthroughfoodandlifestyle.

GOAGoanfoodisablendofthevariousinfluencesthathavebeenapartoftheregion’shistory.ThemaincommunitiesthatliveherearetheChristiansandtheHindus.Forboththemainfoodisfish,whichisnaturalbecauseGoaisonthecoast.FishingboatsgooutintotheArabianSeaintheearlyhoursandareback,ladenwithseafood,bydawn.

GoawasaPortuguesecolonyformanyyearsandthefoodofthatlandhasmainlyinfluencedtheChristianfoodofGoa.ThePortugueseintroducedpork

mainlyinfluencedtheChristianfoodofGoa.ThePortugueseintroducedporkandbeeftotheCatholicconvertsoftheregion,whocametolovedishessuchassorpotel,aspicyporkcurry,whereastheHindus,afish-eatingcommunity,didnotadoptthisnewcuisineduetoreligiousrestrictions.

HinducookeryismainlyfromtheSaraswatcommunitywhouselocalproduce,suchascoconuts,cashewnutsandmangoes.Spicessuchasasafoetida,mustardseedsand‘tirphal’orSzechuanpepper,areusedtoflavourmanyvegetablessuchasbittergourds,pumpkinsandplantain.

Chinesefishingnets,believedtohavebeenintroducedtoIndiabyPortuguesesettlersfromMacauinthesixteenthcentury,onthebayofFortCochin.ThesenetshavebeeninuseinFortCochinforcenturies,althoughthesedaysaremoreusedastouristattractions.

REFERREDTOASKettuvallams,HOUSEBOATSWEREINTRODUCEDTOINDIABYTHECHINESE.FIRSTBUILTINSOUTHWESTERNINDIA,THEYWEREUSEDTOTRANSPORTMERCHANDISE,SUCHASRICEANDSPICES,ALONGSIDEPASSENGERS,AROUNDTHE

BACKWATERSANDLAGOONSOFKERALA.

TheEast

Asinotherpartsofthecountry,availabilityoflocalingredientshasdeterminedtheflavoursofthisregion.Themanyriversandthefertilesoilallowsrice,mangoesandcoconutstogrowinplenty.Freshgingerandmustardseeds,bothwholeandcrushedtoapaste,areusedtoflavourcurries.

RiceiseatenwithallcurriesandtheBengalisgrowonecropayear,leavingtimetopursuewhattheyloveonlysecondtoeating–appreciationofthefinearts–music,paintingandliterature.DuetoitsproximitytotheMughal-influencednorth,theBengaliMuslimcuisineadoptsthebestofthekebabsandbiryanis,whicharetheprideofMughlaicooking.

WestBengalhasagreatvegetarianrepertoire,althoughfishdishessuchas‘MacherJhol’,athinsoupyfishcurryand‘ShorsheBataMacch’,fishiscookedinmustardpaste,aremostfamous.Theuseofspiceshereisuniqueandaspecialfive-spiceblendcalled‘panchphoron’isusedextensively.Thisisamixtureofcumin,fennel,fenugreek,kalonji(alsocalledonionseeds)andblackmustardseeds.Thisisfriedinalittleoilandaddedtomostdishes.

ThemostcharacteristicfeatureofBengalifoodistherepertoireofsweets.Thereisaspeciality‘mishti’orsweetshoponeverystreetcornerinKolkattaandtheyareevenprizedinotherIndiancities.Syrupyrasmalai,wheresoftdumplingsofclottedmilkaresteepedinsweet,spicedmilk;sandesh,afudge-likesweetmadeofthickenedmilk,andasweetyogurtcalled‘mishtidhoi’thatissweetenedwithdatepalmjaggery,allcomeoriginatefromtheeast.

TheNorth-East

ThisregionismadeupoftheSevenSisterStates:ArunachalPradesh,Assam,Manipur,Meghalaya,Mizoram,NagalandandTripuraaswellastheHimalayanstateofSikkim.

Thenorth-eastishometoavastnumberoftribeswhohavetheirownuniquecuisine.TheAditribeofArunachalPradeshcultivatericeandreartheirownpigsandchickens.TheAngamiofNagalandandManipurloveporkwithbamboo

shootsandtheBhutiaofSikkimeatdishessuchas‘phagshapa’–stripsofporkfatcookedwithradishandchilli.Thefoodhereismostlynon-vegetarian,withinfluencesfromnearbyChinaandMyanmar.BeingclosetotheBayofBengal,fishispopularinAssamandiscookedinmustardoilandeatenwithrice.

Thenorth-eastisfamousforarguablythehottestchilliintheworld(seepictured).Aptlycalled‘BhutJolokia’(GhostChilli)inAssam,‘NagaJolokia’inNagalandand‘Umorok’inManipur,itishighlyregardedforitsmedicinalpropertiessuchasitsuseinpain-relieftreatment.

ThefoodofNagalandisquitedifferentfromthatoftherestofIndiaduetotheChineseinfluence–ingredientssuchaspork,beef,bambooshootsandsoyabeanfeatureinmanydishes.Manipuritribesaredividedintothosethatliveinthehillsandthoseoftheplains.Theyexchangetheirproduce,sharingmeatandgrains,andeachtribehasaslightlydifferentcuisinedependingonwhattheygroworrear.

InMizoram,thecookingcanberatherblandbutincludeslentils,chicken,wildgame,pork,bambooshoots,localgrapewineandadrinkcalled‘zu’or‘zutea’whichislocallybrewedricebeer.ArunachalPradeshalsohasablandcuisineeatenwiththelocalricebeercalled‘apang’,whereasinMeghalayariceandporkareofteneatenwithaspicedmixcalled‘tungrymbai’whichhas,amongstotheringredients,fermentedsoyabeans,blacksesameseedsandgarlic.

AYURVEDAISNOTAONESIZEFITSALLSYSTEM.ITSADVICEONNUTRITIONTAKESINTOACCOUNTAPERSON’SINDIVIDUALCONSTITUTIONASWELLASTHEIRLIFESTYLE.

AYURVEDAThebasisofallIndiancookeryistheancientscienceofAyurveda,thesystemofholistichealingwhichistheoldestknownformofmedicine.Itwastranscribedabout5,000yearsagobyHimalayansageswhounderstoodthevalueandhealtheffectsofthevariousherbsthatgrewaroundthem.

Ayurvedabelievesthatwecanachieveoptimumhealthbynourishingthe‘dhatus’orthesevenmajorkindsoftissues,bothliquidandsolid,includingtheblood,plasma,muscles,fat,bone,bonemarrowandreproductivefluids,andbycleansingthebodyof‘ama’orthetoxicwastethataccumulatesinthebodyduetopoordigestion.

TheIndiankitchenisthereforeanapothecarywhichtendstotheeverydayhealthandwellbeingofafamily.Dailyfoodmustbefresh,usehealingspicesandherbssuchasturmericandcorianderandincludeahostoffoodgroups.AtraditionalIndianmealisbalancedsothatthereisalwaysacarbohydrate,aprotein-richcurry,fruitandvegetablesanddairyintheformofyogurt,cheeseormilk.

Ayurvedicwisdomispasseddownthegenerationsandchildrenareoftentoldtoeatcertainseasonalfoodsorfoodcombinationsthatworkwelltogether.MygrandmotherwouldalwaysmakesureIhadacoolingglassofmilkorsomeyogurtifI’deatenamango,considered‘heating’inAyurvedaasitoverstimulatesthedigestion,especiallyinthetropicalsummerheat.Mychildren,althoughbroughtupintheWest,knowthebenefitofginger,honeyandturmericteawhennursingacold.Indianrecipesensurehealingingredientsarecookedinthebestwaytoretainalloftheirgoodness.Thusvegetablesarelightlycookedtoimprovetheirdigestibility(overrawvegetables)andbasmatiriceissometimesdry-roastedforafewminutesbeforebeingboiledtomakeitlighterandeasiertodigest.

Ayurvedaaddressesindividualnutritionalneedsandsuggestseatingfoodsthatsuityourownconstitutionor‘dosha’.Each‘dosha’iscreatedbytheproportionandbalanceofthefiveelements–earth,fire,water,airandether–inyourbodyandthereforeeveryonewillrespondtofoodsinauniqueway.ThethreedoshasareVata(governedbyairandether),Pitta(governedbyfireand

water)andKapha(governedbywaterandearth).ThecoreofagoodIndiandietisonewhereyouareawareofhowyourbodyreactstovariousfoodsatdifferenttimes,andyoueataccordingly.Oftentwodoshascanbepresentinapersonatthesametimeortheycanchangeaccordingtotheseasons.Attimesallthedoshascombineinanindividualmakingtheconstitutionabalancedor‘tridoshic’one.It’snotalwayseasytofollowanAyurvedicdietbutcookingsimplemealswithfresh,seasonal,variedingredientsthatgiveyouasenseofwellbeingisquiteachievable.

SOMEHEALINGSPICESCinnamon–Lowersbloodsugar,antioxidantGarlic–Lowerscholesterol,anti-clottingGinger–AlleviatesmotionsicknessandindigestionTurmeric–Anti-inflammatoryandantioxidantpropertiesChilli–AidsdigestionAsafoetida–HelpsdigestionandpreventionofflatulenceCumin–AidsdigestionFennel–EasescolicCoriander–Aidsdigestion;highinfibreandvitaminC

THESIXTASTESAyurvedarecognisessixtastes:sweet,sour,salty,pungent,bitterandastringent.Allfoodsandherbsareclassifiedbytaste.Thetasteofafoodgivesusthekeytoitsactionsuponthedigestion,thebodyandultimatelyouremotionsandoursentiments.InSanskrit,thewordfortasteandemotionisthesame–‘rasa’.

SWEET→Grains,lentils,fruit,vegetables,dairy.Sweettasteisalsocalledneutraltaste.Thisistodistinguishitfromtheideaofsimplesugarordesserts.Itincludesproteins,carbsandfats,aswellasmostfruitsandvegetables.About90percentoffoodisofthesweet/neutraltaste.

SOUR→Cheese,sourfruit,citrusfruit,yogurt,fermentedfoods,wine.Sourtasteincludesallfoodsthatareaged,ripened,fermentedornaturallyacidic.Theyareconsideredtobepartiallypre-digestedfoodsordigestiveaids.Thustheyhelpstimulateappetite.Toomuchsourcanleadtobloodtoxicity,heartburn,acidityoritching.

SALTY→Seaplants,salt.Saltytastesstimulatetheflowofsalivaandthecreationofhydrochloricacidinthestomach,thusaidingdigestion.Toomuchsaltdisturbstheblood,leadstoinflammationorfluidretentionandoverwhelmsalltheothersenses.

PUNGENT→Cloves,chillies,garlic,onion.Pungenttasteincludesallfoodsandspicesthatarespicy,hotandsharp.Thewarmingqualitystimulatesthedigestivefireknownas‘agni’.Itreducesfluidsandhasacleansingaction.Toomuchpungentfoodcanleadtoexcessiveheat,burning,dehydration,restlessnessandirritability.

BITTER→Aubergine,spinach,leafyvegetables,turmeric.BittertasteisconsideredbalancingandhealingandisanessentialpartofIndiancookery.

ASTRINGENT→Broccoli,pomegranate,quinoa,cranberry.Thisisthedrytasteleftinthemouthafterasipofblackteaordrywhitewine.

BalanceIndiancookeryaimstocombinefoodsandherbsofallsixtastesintoabalancedwhole.Awell-roundedmealusesallsixtastesinproportion.

HomeCookingvsRestaurantFood

EatingoutwasnotthenormformostIndiansuntilafewyearsago.Withanextendedfamilylivingunderoneroof,itwascheaperandmorepracticaltoeatathomethantogoouttoarestaurant.Today,nuclearfamilieswithlesstimefinditeasytoeatoutbutmostpeopleareawarethattheywillneverbeabletoget‘gharkakhana’oratasteofhome,whentheyeatinarestaurant.

Thebiggestdifferencebetweenhomeandrestaurantfoodisthatallhomecookingisbasedontheprinciplesofgoodhealth,withattentionbeingpaidnotjusttoingredientsandtheirsourcingbutalsototheirpreparation(seeAyurveda).YouhardlyeverseethewonderfulrangeofvegetablesusedinanIndianhomeonarestaurantmenu.Eaterieswilloftenover-spice,over-saltandover-greasetheirdishestomakethemtastegoodbutthisisnothealthyinthelongrun.Homefoodisgenerallyfresherandlighterintaste.

AnIndianhome-cookedmealissuitablefortheentirefamily,includingchildrenandolderrelatives.Thereforemostofit,exceptinsomeregionsthatrelyheavilyontheuseofchillies,ismoderatelyspiced.Onthetableyouwillfindasmallselectionofpicklesandchutneys–somehot,otherssweet–thatareusedtopersonalisethemealandmakeithotterorsweeter.Plain,coolingyogurtalsofeaturesinmostregionalmeals.ItisacompletemyththatallIndianfoodissearinghot.

Indianfoodisnotgenerallydividedintocourses.Everythingisservedatthesametimesothatthemealisanexcitingkaleidoscopeofcolour,texture,temperatureandtaste.Poppadums,sotypicallyproducedatthestartofamealinmostrestaurantsaroundtheworld,provideaninterestingcontrastoftextureandtasteinanIndianhome-cookedmeal.Mostrestaurantswillagreethattheybecomea‘firstcourse’tokeeptheguestbusywhilethemealisbeingprepared!

WhenyoueatinanIndianhome,youwillbetoldthatthereis,forexample,chickencurryordalfordinner.Noonesays‘wearehavingchickentikkamasalafordinner’.Generalnamesareenoughtogivethefamilyanideaofwhattoexpectatthetablebecauserecipesthathavebeenusedforyearswillbefamiliar.Restaurants,ontheotherhand,havenamesfordishesthatarequitespectacularintheirrichness(‘ShahiMalaiPaneer’–RoyalCreamyPaneerCheese)andatso

intheirrichness(‘ShahiMalaiPaneer’–RoyalCreamyPaneerCheese)andatsomanyrestaurantsandtakeawaysintheWest,theclassificationofcurriesisbasedonthelevelofheat.A‘Korma’issupposedlymild,a‘Madras’ismoderateanda‘Vindaloo’isfieryhot.Thisdistinctionneithertakesintoaccountregionalinfluencesnorcoreingredients.ThisisafusionBritishRajcuisinewhereingredientsandcookingstylescombineinahaphazardmannertocreateastylethathas,thankfully,notpermeatedintoIndianhomesorindeedintorestaurantsinIndia.

MEALSINANINDIANHOMEThekitcheninanIndianhomeisabusyone.Variousmealsoringredientssuchasspiceblendsarepreparedthroughouttheday.Intheinterestofhygieneintheblazingtropicalheat,Indianspreferpipinghotfoodovercoldanddon’tlikeeatingleftovers,sofreshfoodiscookedonadailybasis.

Breakfast→Thekitchenopenswiththemakingoftea,popularincentralornorthernIndia,orcoffee,usuallyinsouthIndia.Inlargercities,peoplemayrushofftoworkafterabreakfastoftoastandeggsbutinmostplaces,themaincook,whoisoftentheladyofthehouse,willmakeafresh,hotregionalbreakfast.Inthesouth,thiscouldbelentilandricepancakescalled‘dosa’,inMaharashtraitcouldbesavouryflakedricecalled‘Poha’andinPunjabitcouldbeaparatha.

Lunch→ManypeopleinIndia,includingschool-goingchildrenandofficeworkers,carryapackedlunchwiththem.Thisisoftenroti,avegetableormeatcurry,avegetablesidedishandyogurt,allofwhichhavebeenfreshlycookedthatmorningandcanlastinthetropicalheatofIndia.InMumbai,auniquelunchboxdeliverysystemdevelopedin1890hasgrowntobecomeagodsendforthosewhoprefertheirdaytimemealsentfromhome,fortasteandhygienereasons.Thousandsoflunchboxesarecollectedfromhomeseachmorninganddeliveredtoworkplacesbymiddayusingacodingsystemunderstoodonlybythedeliverymen.Growingup,Ihadahot,freshmealbroughttomyschooleverydaybyourhomecook.Ididn’treallythinkmuchofitthenbutwhatwouldn’tIgivetohavethatluxuryinLondontoday!

Dinner→Thisiswhenthefamilyeatstogetherandthemealconsistsofriceor

someformofIndianbreadsuchasrotiorparatha,curriesandsidedishes,alwaysaccompaniedbyyogurt.Dessertsarenoteateneveryday,insteadapieceoffruitsuchasaseasonalmangoorthemorereadilyavailableandcheaperbananawillbeserved.DinnerinanIndianhomeisservedlaterthanintheWest.Asdaysarelongerformostmonthsoftheyear,familiestendtoeatatabout8pm,aftermembershavereturnedfromworkandschool.

SAMPLEMENUS

SouthIndianbreakfast

Dosa(fermentedlentilandricepancakes)Sambhar(spicedlentilswithvegetables)

CoconutChutneyCoffee

Gujaratilunch

RiceDalwithtamarindandcoriander

KobiVatanaNuShak(spicedcabbageandpeasstir-fry)Khandvi(softgramflourrolls)

Yogurt

Punjabidinner

RotiChickenCurry

Rajma(redkidneybeancurry)AlooGobi(potatoeswithcauliflower)

CucumberRaita(yogurtwithcucumber)

COOKINGFORCHILDRENPeopleoftenaskmeabouthowtointroduceIndianfoods(cooking)tochildren.It’sworthbearinginmindthatchildreninIndiaarebroughtupeatingIndian

It’sworthbearinginmindthatchildreninIndiaarebroughtupeatingIndianfood,andspicesareintroducedquiteearly.Alightteamadewithfennelseedsisfedtobabiesasyoungasafewmonthsold.Soft-cookedriceisapopularweaningfoodandyogurtismixedintothisfromwhenthebabyis8–9monthsold.Childrenalwaysindicatewhentheyarereadytomoveontothenextstageofdietorskill.Ifedmydaughter,amongstotherblandfoods,agentlemixofriceandyogurtuntilonedaywhenshewasjustoverayearold,Itriedalittlemildlyspicedchickencurry.Sheloveditandhaseatenspicedfoodeversince.

IneveryIndianhome,childrenareofferedmilddishesfromwhateverhasbeencookedforthefamily.Asitis,homecookinginmostpartsofIndiaisnotveryhot.Therearenospecial‘children’smeals’.Forexample,ifthefamilyiseatingrice,aspicyfishcurry,amilddalandamildcauliflowersidedish,thechildwillbefedeverythingexceptthefishcurryandmayevenbeintroducedtoabitoffishwithoutthespicysauce.

Inmyexperience,itisagoodideatointroduceyoungchildrenearlytoavarietyoffoodsaspartofanaturalwayoffamilyeating.Childrenasyoungastwoenjoyrotisandastheygetolderwillbehappytohelpcookthem.Dosasorriceandlentilpancakes,idlis(steamedricecakes),breads,rice,mildcurriesandvegetablesareallsuitableforchildren.Cumin,corianderandturmericaremildspicesandcanbeaddedtochildren’smealsforflavourratherthanforheat.

VEGETARIANISMAlmost85percentofIndiansareHinduandmanyarevegetarianallorsomeofthetimeduetoreligiousreasons.Religiousabstinencefromnon-vegetarianfoodssuchasmeat,poultry,fishandeveneggsiscommonalloverthecountry.However,notallHindusarevegetarian,ascasteandcommunityalsoaffectsthischoice.Mostnon-vegetarianswilleatmeatorfishafewtimesaweekorjustonceaweek,firstlybecauseitisexpensiveandsecondlybecausethechoiceofvegetables,lentils,beansanddairyproductsissovastthatthereisaseeminglyendlessvariety.Vegetarianfoodisalsoconsideredhealthierthanmeatbecauseitiseasiertodigest.Fewpeopletodaybelievethatavegetariandietislackinginprotein;infact,theyogurtandbeansthatareanessentialpartofthisdietareanextremelygoodsourceofprotein.

Indiaiswell-knownforitstraditionofvegetarianism,whichhasahistorygoingbackalmosttwomillennia.DuringtheVedicperiod,almost5,000yearsago,animalswerehuntedforfoodandmeatwaseatenregularlybythewarriorcommunityofKshatriyas.Theanti-meat-eatingsentimentbegantobefeltattheendoftheVedicperiod.ThisperiodcoincidedwiththeriseofBuddhismandJainism,whosefounderstheBuddhaandLordMahavirarespectively,taughttheirfollowersthedoctrinesofnon-violence.Asmoreandmorepeoplebegantoconverttothesenewerbeliefs,Hindupriests,fearingthatagreatnumberoftheirpeoplewouldconvert,alsobeganpreachingagainstthekillingofanimals.Theyadoptedthepracticeof‘ahimsa’ornon-violenceandfollowedavegetariandiet,regardingit,aswellasadvertisingit,assuperiortotheolderBrahminicalideasofanimalsacrifice.Today,almostathirdofIndiaisvegetarianandmostofthesepeopleareHinduandJain.MostBuddhistsinIndiaeatmeatinthebeliefthatthisisallowedaslongastheyhavenotparticipatedinthekillingoftheanimal.

TheavailabilityofingredientsaswellasIndiansmigratingandtakingtheirfoodwiththemaroundtheworldhasmeantthatIndianvegetarianfoodismorepopularnowthaneverbefore.

Quantities,IngredientsandStandardisation

ItisoftenamusingtochefsnotofIndianoriginthatattheheartofthiscuisinethereisnoconceptofstandardisation!AskanIndiancookforarecipeandyouwillheartheword‘andaaz’–whichroughlymeansintuitiveapproximation.MostIndiancooksrelyontheirsenseofsight,smellandhearingtodecidewhattoputinthepanorwhenthedishisperfectlycooked.Havingsaidthat,quantitiesandproportionarevitalwhenlearningtocookanditcantakeyearstoperfectthisintuitive‘andaaz’!

Thenamesofrecipesarealsovagueenoughthatacookcaninterprettheminwhicheverwayheorshelikes–keepingtrue,ofcourse,totheingredientsandtechniquesoftheregion.‘SaagAloo’literallymeansaleafyvegetableandpotatoes.WeknowthatitisanorthIndiandishbecausethenameisinHindiandthereforethestyleofcooking(startingwiththefryingofonions)andingredientsused(acombinationofonions,ginger,tomatoesandchillies)willbeinthenorthernstyle.Thesamecombinationofvegetablesmaybecalled‘PalakBatatanuShak’inGujarat,inwesternIndia,andhavemustardseeds,greenchillies,gingerandevenabitofsugar.Thisshowsthedifferentpossibilitiesofinterpretingthesamedish.

DuetothefactthatnotonlyregionaldiversitybutalsopersonalvariationsinfluencethecookinginanIndianhome,thereisnosingle‘correct’recipeforaparticulardish.MyfriendsfromtheSindhicommunitymakeatantalisingcurryusinggramflourasthebaseforaselectionofvegetables.IhavebeengivenatleastsixdifferentrecipesforthesamedishandhavecometorealisethatmyownversionisbasedonarrivingatthetastethatIpreferofalltheonesIhaveeaten.Thismeans,again,thatmanyIndiancookswillusearecipecreatedinordertoachieveaparticularresult,knowingfullwellthatseveralinterpretations,allprobablycorrect,willexist.

Itisalsoimportanttobearinmindthatingredientshavechangedoverthelastfewdecades.InsomeWesterncountrieswherethecoldweatherdoesnotpermittheadequateripeningofvegetablesthroughouttheyear,traditionallyusedIndianingredientshavetobeadapted.IusetomatopuréeinmanyofmyrecipesasitisreadilyavailableintheWestandcanprovideaninstantdepthofflavour.I

findthatitprovidestheintensityofcolourandflavourthatI’mtryingtoachieve,especiallyintheUKwheretomatoestendtobetoowatery.

Timeconstraints,thelackoftherightequipmentandtheavailabilityofpreparedingredientsalsoinfluencehowwecook.Forexample,inmanyhomesinsouthernIndia,freshcoconutsarecrackedopenandshreddedonacoconutscrapereverysingledaytouseincurriesorasagarnish.IntheWest,ifacurrycallsforcoconutthiswouldbetediouswithoutascraper(alongsharpbladewithaserrateddiscattachedtooneend)andlackofpractice.Ihavethereforesubstitutedfreshcoconutwithreadilyavailabledesiccatedcoconutwhereverpossible,usedinthedryformorreconstitutedbysoakingitinwarmwaterfor20minutesorso.

Inthisbook,Ihavewrittenrecipesforfourpeople.Ifyouneedtodoubletherecipe,itisworthnotingthatyouDONOTdoublethespicesasthiswouldmakethedishtoostronglyflavoured.Itendtouseoneandahalftimesthespices.Iftherecipeistobequadrupled,thendoublethespices,bearinginmindthatyoucanalwaysaddabitofspiceattheendofcookingifthedishistoobland(chillipowderorgarammasala)orpale(turmericorchillipowder)andbringeverythinguptotheboiltocookthespices.

CulinaryTermsandTechniques

GoodingredientsandspicesareattheheartofIndiancookingbuttherighttechniquesarerequiredtomakethemcomealiveinaflashoftasteandtexture.ConsideringthatIndiahashundredsoflanguages,thislistofculinarytermscouldbeendless!IhaveusedHinditermsforthemostpart,asitisthemostwidelyspokenIndianlanguageinIndia.

DUMDumliterallymeanssteam.Itisatechniquewhereapotissealedwithdoughmadefromchapattiflour(atta)andwater.Atight-fittinglidensuresthatnosteamcanescapeandalltheflavourisretainedinthedish.Often,thisdishwouldbeplacedoncoalsandslow-cookedforafewhours.Hotcoalswouldalsobeplacedonthelidsothatheatwasprovidedfromaboveaswellasfrombelow.

Theingredientswouldbepartiallycookedthensealedsothattheybecametenderandthefatrosetothetop.Thiswasconsideredappetisingbycooksofbygoneyearsbutmoderntastesaremovingtowardslighter,lessoilyfood.

Inmodernkitchens,thistechniquecanbeachievedintheoven,whichprovidesevenheat,wherebyadishissealedwithdoughorwithseverallayersoffoil.RecipesforDumBiryanisandsomecurriesarecookedthisway.

BAGHAR/TADKA/CHOWNKThereareseveralIndianwordsforthisessentialprocedureoftemperingfoods.Spicesoringredientssuchasonions,garlic,gingerorchilliesarecookedinhotoiltoextractanddeveloptheirflavour.Temperingcanbedoneatthebeginningofcooking,whereforexample,spicesandonionsarecookedbeforeaddingcookedlentilstomakeTarkaDal,orattheendwhen,forexample,cuminseedsmaybefriedinoilandpouredoveracurry.Theoilcontainsthearomaticoilsextractedfromthespicesandbecomes‘flavoured’itself.

BHUNAThisisaprocessofsautéingorstir-frying,usuallyinsomefat,overahighheatthatisreducedtomediumwhentheingredienthasstartedtosoftenorbrown.Itisdoneatseveralstagesofthecookingprocessandsometimesalittleliquid–water,yogurtortomato,forinstance–isaddedtopreventingredientssuchasspicesfromsticking.Tostart,theonions,ginger,garlic,etc.,arestir-frieduntiltheyarewelldone.Next,themainingredientsuchasmeatorvegetablesisstir-frieduntilitissealedorpartiallycooked.Meatforacurryisnotbrownedinbatchesasthiscancreatealayerthatpreventsthespiceflavoursfullypermeatingit.Sealingitbybhunaensuresthatthejuicesgetlockedinbutthespicesthoroughlyflavourthemeat.

Afterthestir-fryingstage,liquidisaddedtofinishoffthecookingandcreateasauce.IntheWest,manyIndiantakeawayssella‘bhuna’whichhascometomeanameatdishwithlittlesaucethatismedium-hottospicy,althoughitscookingdoesbeginwiththis‘bhuna’method.

TipsforTadka

1Althoughmanycooksclaimthattheoilhastobesmokinghotforatadkatowork,Iencouragepeopletosimplywarmtheoiloverahighheatbeforeaddingspiceseeds.Thisgivesyoucontrolasyouwatchthempoporsizzle,changecolouranddevelopanaroma.Italsoreducesthelikelihoodofthemburningbutiftheydo,youwillhavetodiscardthemandstartagain.2Makesurethatyouhaveallyouringredientsprepared.Oilcancomeuptotemperaturequitequickly,dependingonthesource,sokeepspices,choppedonions,garlicandgingernexttothehob.3Ingredientsareaddedinsuccession,dependingonthetimetheytaketocook.Spiceseedsgoinfirst,thenonionsandlastlytomatoes.4Pourthetemperingalongwiththeoilorgheeoverfinisheddishesforextraflavourorwherethemaindishisnotcooked(sometimessaladsarefinishedwithawarmtemperingofspiceseeds).

DHUNGARThisisastovetopsmokingmethodthatispopularinnorthIndianAwadhicookery.

YOUWILLNEED:asmallmetalbowlasmallpieceofcoal

1teaspoongheeoroil

1Placeasmallmetalbowlinthecentreofthepanwhichholdsyourcookedfood,forexampleacurry,dalorkebabs.

2Lightthecoalandwhentheinitialthicksmokehasdiedawayandthecoalhasturnedgrey,placeitinthebowl.

3Pourthegheeoverthecoal.Coverthepanwithatight-fittinglidandsealfor2–3minutes.Thelongeryouleaveit,thesmokieryourfoodwillbe,butI’dsuggestamaximumof10minutes.

4Liftthelid,removethebowlofcoalandservethecurry,dalorkebabsimmediately.

TALNAThisisadeep-orshallow-fryingtechnique,usuallydoneinakarahi,aheavy,wok-shapedmetallicpan.

Tofryevenly,heattheoiluntilapieceofwhatistobefried(perhapsasliceofonionoradropofbatter)canbeaddedtotheoilanditcooksquickly.Adropofbatterwillrisetothetopinafewseconds.Heatregulationiscriticalduringfrying,asfoodsneedtocookevenly,especiallyinthemiddle,withoutburningonthesurface.Forthis,startoffatahighheatthen,whenthefoodhassealedandstartedtocolour,reducetheheattomediumuntiltherightcolourhasbeenachieved.

CONDENSATIONWhencookingdrydishes,especiallyvegetables,acleverbutsimplecondensationtechniqueisusedinIndianhomekitchens.Thiseliminatestheneedforaddingcookingliquidtothepanwhichcandiluteflavourandchangetheconsistencyofthedish.

changetheconsistencyofthedish.Placeaconvexlidonthepanandfillthelidwithafewtablespoonsof

coldwater.Asthevegetablesheatup,thesaltintherecipedrawsouttheirjuiceswhichriseupassteam.Thissteamhitstheinsideofthelid,condensesandfallsbackintothepanprovidingabitofmoisture.

BOTIANDTIKKABothofthesetermsareusedforcutsofmeatorpoultry.Botigenerallyreferstodicedlegmeat,whichisthedarkerincolourinbirds,andtikkaisdicedbreast.Youwillfindthattikkaisusuallyassociatedwithchickenandbotiwithlambormutton.Sometimesrestaurantswillusethesetermsloosely,variouslycallingdiced,spiced,grilledmeat,poultryorpaneercheese,boti,tikkaorkebab.

MASALAThisisageneraltermtomeanspice,aspiceblendoraspicedcurrypaste.Whenacurrypasteismadefromfreshingredients,suchascorianderleavesoronionsblendedwithwater,vinegar,coconutmilketc.,itiscalledawetmasala.

Anexampleofadrymasalaistheeverpopularspiceblendgarammasala.The‘currypowder’soldintheWestisnotusedbyIndiancooks–itwasaBritishRajcreationtolooselyreplicateIndianflavours.EachregionofIndia,indeedeverycommunity,hasitsownspiceblendandassuchtherearehundredsof‘currypowders’,eachdistinctandunique,withspecificnamessuchasthesouthern‘sambharpowder’madefromspicessuchaschilliandfenugreekor‘godamasala’madefromcinnamon,poppyseedsandcoconutinMaharashtra.Recipesarepasseddownthegenerations,witheachcookmakingslightchangesaccordingtotheirowntaste.

MUGHLAICOOKERYThisisastyleofcookingdevelopedintheimperialkitchensofIndia’sMuslimrulersoftheMughaldynasty.TheyruledfromDelhiandhaveinfluencedthecookeryofnorthIndia.Recipesarerichwithnuts,cream,driedfruitandspices.Meatandpoultryarethestarshere,aswellasmilkysweetsflavouredwithsaffronandnuts.

CURRYThewordcurrycomesfromtheTamilword‘kari’whichmeanssauceorvegetabledish.ToanIndian,curryisadishthathasgravybuttothosenottoofamiliarwiththecuisine,anysavourydishthatiscookedwithspicesorcurrypowder,whetherithasasauceornot,iscurry.Ihaveheardpeoplerefertosamosasascurry!

CONSISTENCY→Agoodcurryshouldhavetherightconsistency.Isittoothickortoowatery?Somecurriesaremeanttobethickerthanothersbuttheymustalwaysbemoistenoughtoactasasauceforthecarbohydratedishessuchasriceorbread.Somefoods,suchaslentils,thickenuponkeeping.Loosenthemupwithasplashofwaterbeforeserving.Ifyourcurryistoothin,youcanthickenitwithapasteoffriedonionsorgroundnuts,suchascashewsoralmonds,orwithtomatopurée.

COLOUR→Turmeric,chillies,tamarindandfreshcorianderaresomeoftheingredientsthataddcolourtoacurry.Theseaddflavourandaromaaswell.Generallycurriescanbewhite(asinaKashmiriyogurt-basedyakhni),red(asinamakhani),yellow(asinmanykormas)andgreen(asinasouthIndiannilgiri).

OILS→Theoilusedalsovariesfromregiontoregion,givingeachcurryauniquefragrance.Manypartsofthesouthusepeanutoilorcoconutoil.InBengal,itismustardoil.Overmostofthecountrymiddle-classhouseholdsusevegetableorsunfloweroil.Gheeisalsousedbutisincreasinglyreservedforfestivedishesanddesserts.Gheeisconsiderednutritiousifeateninmoderationbutitisbestmadeathomefrommilkthatcomesfromgrass-fedcows.

Mostrecipescanbecookedinsunflower,vegetable,cornorrapeseedoil,allofwhichcanbeheateduptothehightemperaturerequiredbymostIndiancooking.

Curriesaremadeinsteps,almostlikebuildingblocks.Theblockscanbemoved

Curriesaremadeinsteps,almostlikebuildingblocks.Theblockscanbemovedaroundandrearrangedincountlesswaystogivepersonalisedrecipes.

HOWTOMAKEABASICCURRY

ManyIndiancurriesbeginwithonions.Somerecipesneedslicedonesandothersrequirethemtobefinelydiced.Indianonionsarewhite,pinkorpurpleandrangefromsmalltothesizeofatennisball.TherearealsothesmallpearlonionsthatareusedinsouthIndian‘sambhar’orlentils.MostnorthIndiancurriesbeginwiththefryingofonions.TheonionsusedinmostIndianrecipescanbesubstitutedwithSpanishonionsintheWest.Thesearemildandjuicyandaddbulkaswellasmoisture.

ONIONSThefirststepistocutallyouringredientsevenly–thiswillensureevencooking.Peelingorchoppingonionsisnevereasy.Inmycookeryclasses,thisisthetaskthatdrawsthemostmoansfromparticipantsbecauseIndiancookeryseemstoneedsomanyonions!Ihavefoundthatthebestwaytolessenthecryingistoputonionsinthefridgeforalittlewhilebeforechoppingthem.Thisseemstostabilisethesulphuroils.Also,notdisturbingtheroottoomuchhelps–whileslicingonions,cutofftherootandwhiledicing,cutaroundit,discardingsomeoftheflesharoundit.Whenslicingonions,workalongthegrainorthefinelinesthatyouseeontheonion.Thishelpstheslicestocookevenly.

Thesecretofmanycurriesistocooktheonionswellatthebeginning.Somecurriesneedtheonionstobeblendedintoapaste–Ihavefoundthatcookingtheonionsfirsthelpstobringouttheirflavourbetterthanblendingthemandthencookingthepaste.Ifyouwantcolourinyourcurry,theonionswillhavetobeshallow-fried.Startthemoverahighheat,sprinklinginapinchofsalttohastenthecooking.Whentheybegintobrown,reduce

inapinchofsalttohastenthecooking.Whentheybegintobrown,reducetheheattomediumandcontinuecookingfor7–8minutesuntiltheyareverysoftandyoucaninsertaknifeintoapieceofonioneasily.Inrecipeswhereyoudonotwantcolour,theslicedonionscanbeboiledinjustenoughwatertocoverthem.

Whentheonionsarenottobepuréed,cookthemuntilsoftbutnotaslongasabovebecausetheywillcontinuecookingwiththerestoftheingredients.

Itisbesttostoreonionsinacool,dry,ventilatedplace,asanymoisturewillcausethemtorot.

GARLICThegarliconeseesintheWestisanorientalvarietycalledelephantgarlic,whichislargerandmilderthanthesmallvarietysoldinIndia.ThisiswhycurriesintheWestaresometimesnotasintenseastheonesinIndia.However,thisisnotabadthing–foodsinthetropicsneedtobemuchhigherinflavourtocounteracttheheat.Thisisalsoaddressedbyaddingmoresalttofoodinhotcountries.Garlichasanunmistakableandpungentaroma.Ithasaflavourthatismuchstrongerthanthatofonion.Thescenthasanundertoneofsulphur,whichiseitherlovedorhated,assomepeoplefinditslingeringsmelldistasteful.Thetastecanbequitesharpandbitingandcanincreasetheheatofadish,sodotakethisintoaccountwhenaddingtheotherspices.

InIndiagarlicisusedincurries,marinades,chutneys,vegetabledishes,barbecuedmeats,picklesandcountlessotherpreparations.Eachgarliccloveisfirstpeeled,andthenthefleshcanbechopped,gratedormadeintopaste.Garliccanbeeatenraworcooked;whenfryingmakesurethattheoilisnottoohotorthegarlicwillburnandtasteacrid.Afewgarliccloves,roughlybruised,friedinalittlehotoilandpouredintoacurrycangiveitareallift.

GINGERGingerisoneofthemosthealingingredientsintheIndiankitchen.ItiswidelyavailableintheWestbutdependingonwherethegingerhasbeengrown,thetastewilldifferfromtheonegrowninIndia,whichisquiteintense.Chinesegingerismorewateryandthereforeweakerinflavour.Gingerteaissaidtosoothecoldsandcoughs,isanti-inflammatoryand

Gingerteaissaidtosoothecoldsandcoughs,isanti-inflammatoryandstopsmotionsickness.Themosthealingpartofgingerliesjustbeneathitsskin.Choosepale,smooth,shinygingerthatcanbescrapedeasily.Ratherthanpeelingginger,whichwillalmostcertainlytakeawaythathealinglayer,scrapethetopskinoffwithasmallknifeorateaspoon.

GINGER-GARLICPASTE

Thenextstepmaywellbeaddingthegingerandgarlic.Youcanaddchoppedgingerandgarlicifthemixtureisgoingtobeblitzed,orusepasteifyoualreadyhavesomeinthefridge.Garlicandgingercomplementeachotherandareoftenusedtogether.

1partginger,scrapedandchopped2partsgarlic,chopped(byvolume)

1Combinethegingerandgarlic.Ifmakingasmallamount,youcangratebothorcrushtheminamortarandpestle.Youdon’tneedtodiscardthegreen‘soul’fromthecentreofthegarlic;itisedibleandanybitternessithaswilladdtothebalanceofflavoursintheentiredish.2Ifmakingalargeramount,blitzthepeeledandchoppedgingerandgarlicinablenderalongwithalittlewatertoturnthebladesandmakeasmoothpurée.3Youcanstorethispasteinthefridgeorfreezer.Putitintoacleanjar,topitupwithoil(anycookingoil)andputitinthefridge.Youcanusethisforupto3weeks.Youwillfindthattheoillayermaydecreasewitheachscoopofpasteused–justtopupasnecessary.4Tofreezethepaste,eitherputitintoice-cubetrays,coveritwithclingfilmandstorefor3monthsorputitintoafreezerbag,laythisonametaltrayandfreezeitflat.Itbecomesquitebrittleandyoucanbreakoffasmuchasyouneedforeachrecipe.Whileginger-garliccubesneedthawing,thebitsbrokenofffromaflatsheetcanbeaddeddirectlytothepan.

TOMATOESOften,anorthIndiancurrywillhavetomatoes.InseasonyoucanusefreshonesbutinmanyrecipeswhereIrequiredepthandcolour,Iusetomatopuréeorcannedtomatoes.Indiantomatoesarebrighterredandmoreintenseintastesoinmanyofmyrecipes,Ihaveusedtomatopuréetorecreatethisdepthofcolourandflavour.

BLENDINGThemixturecanthenbeblitzedinablendertomakeacurrypaste.Youwillneedtoaddwatertohelpturntheblades–beginbyaddingjustenoughto

needtoaddwatertohelpturntheblades–beginbyaddingjustenoughtocoverthemixture.Pourinmorewater,alittleatatime,untilyougetasmoothpurée.

SALTMyrecipesdon’tgivetheamountofsaltneededasindividualtastesvary.Youwillneedtosaltyourfoodasitisessentialtocreateabalanceofthesixtastes.Ifyoufindthatsomethingismissinginthefinaldish,anditdoesnottastequitefinished,itisprobablysaltandnotmorespices.Usegood-qualityseasaltandyou’llfindthatitisnoteasytoexceedrecommendeddailyallowancesifyoucookyourfoodfromscratch.Itisthesaltinprocessedfoodsthatistherealhiddendanger.

Planningameal

GiventhattherepertoireofIndiancookingissovastandthatregionaldifferencesmakechoosingverydifficult,keepingthemealsimpleisvital.InmanyIndianhomesaneverydaymealhas3–4dishesincludingriceand/orchapattis,ameatorvegetablecurryandlentilsthatareservedwithyogurt,saladandpickle.InIndianhomesoutsideofIndia,mealstendtobesimplerasfamiliesaresmallerandthereisnohouseholdhelp.

Aneasywaytoplanamealistothinkofthefoodgroups,taste,colour,textureandtemperature.

FOODGROUPS

Beginbychoosingariceand/orabread.Indianswillcommonlyhaveplainboiledriceasitactsasaneutralbackdropfortheflavourinalltheotherdishes.Addaproteinsuchasachicken,fishormeatcurryorchooseavegetarianlentil,bean,pulseordairyone.

Asaladorvegetablesidedishwilladdfibre.

Taste→Abalancedmealshouldhaveallthesixtastes.AnIndianhomemealisnotalwaysspicyhot–thisdependsontheregion–butisgenerallysuitableforthechildrenandeldersofthehouse.Arangeofpicklesandrelishesisservedwiththemealsothatdinerscanpersonalisetheirmeal.

Colour→Anattractiveplateshouldbecolourfulandhealthy.Bringincolourwithfreshvegetablesandspices.Itiseasytoaddagoldenhuetoricebyaddingapinchofturmericortoaddafreshgreensaladtoacurryandricemeal.

Texture→Bringincontrastssuchasgrainy,smooth,chewyorcrisp.AnIndianmealdoesnothavecoursesandeachcomponentaddsadifferenttexturetocreateinterestwitheachmouthful.Poppadumsareservedaspartofthemainmealtoaddacrispelement.

Temperature→MostIndianmealsareservedhot.However,yogurtinsomeformisalsoservedineverypartofthecountry.Thisaddsatemperaturevariation,coolsthepalateandaidsdigestion.Inthesouth,amealendswithsomeyogurtandricewhereasinthenorth,yogurtflavouredwithspicesaddsacoolcontrast.Indianspreferhomemadeyogurtandsetapotofitdailyusingtheliveculturesfromthepreviouspot.

WHATTODRINKWITHAMEALAlmosteveryIndianhomewillservewaterwithameal.Alcoholisnotwidelyconsumedandifitis,itwillbedrunkbeforethemealratherthanwithit.Indiahasawidevarietyofbeveragesmadeofyogurt,milk,herbs,spices,fruitandvegetablesbutthesearedrunkthroughthedaytoquenchthirstandtostaveoffthetropicalheatratherthanwithameal.

Sometimesamealmayendwithadigestivedrinksuchasbuttermilk.Teaor

coffeetofinishismoreofarestaurantconceptthansomethingyouwoulddseeinanIndianhome.

SomerestaurantsinIndia,andoutside,serveavarietyofbeersandwines,bothIndianandinternational.

MENUSFORENTERTAININGFestiveandpartymenuswilloftendemonstratehowmuchtimethecookhasspentinthekitchenbypresentingaspreadofupto20differentdishes.Specialingredientssuchasnuts,saffron,meat,poultry,fishorcreamwillalsofeaturebutthesheervarietythatiscookedmakesthemealspecial.Thefoodatweddingsissecondonlyinimportancetothebridalcoupleandeachfamilyvieswiththeothertoofferanincreasingnumberofexoticdishes.

FestivalsareassociatedwithcertainfoodsandeachHindugodhastheirownfavourite,whichiscookedontheirspecialday.TheHindugodGaneshlovescoconutandjaggerysweetscalled‘modak’andthesearemadeeachyearonlyduringtheGaneshfestival.

Religious‘fasts’areequallyimportant,althoughthisdoesnotalwaysmeanacompleteabstinencefromfood.Aspecial‘fasting’cuisinehasdevelopedwithdishesthatcanincludeingredientssuchaspotatoes,sago,nuts,fruitanddairy,allconsidered‘sattvik’orcalmingtothebodyandmind.

Equipment

Ifyouhavebeencookingforsometime,youwillprobablyhavealltheequipmentneededtomakeanIndianmeal.MostIndiancooksswearbycookingongasandalloverIndia,foodiscookedthiswayoronwoodorcoalfires,sokitchenequipmentisdesignedtosuittheseformsofcooking.

KnivesAsharpchef’sknifethatcanmincegarlic,finelysliceonionsorchopfreshcoriandertofineshredsisinvaluable.Makesuretokeepitsharpened.Asharpknifeismuchsaferthanabluntoneasyou’llusefarlesspressuretochopingredientsandthereforethereislessriskoftheknifeslippingandinjuringyou.

ChoppingboardsIusepolyethyleneplasticasitcangointothedishwasher,isnon-porousandthereforedoesnotholdontosmellssuchasonionorgarlic.Woodenboardsarelong-lastingbutwillneedregularsanitisingwithakitchen-safecleanerandproperdryingsothattheydonotbecomemouldy.Iknowthatsomecooksregularlyoiltheirwoodenboards.Glassormarblechoppingboardswilldullthebladeofyourknife.It’sagoodideatohaveasmallselectionofcolouredboards.Mykitchenhasgreenandbrownforvegetarianfoodpreparation,redforrawmeatandblueforrawfish.

UtensilsYou’llneedapeeler,grater,aspatulaandareasonablenumberofwoodenorsiliconespoons,someslottedandothersplain.Ladlesareusedtoscoopupcurriesandlentildishes.

MostIndianbreadsarerolledout,soyouwillneedarollingpin.AtraditionalIndianrollingpinisslimmerthanaWesternoneandcomeswitharoundrollingboardwhichactsasaguidetogetthechapattisroundasyourollthem.Thepinitselfistaperedandlightwhichallowsyoutoputjustenoughpressureandnottoomuch,dustingflourtorollthechapattiintoanevenshapewithoutmakingitsticktothesurface.

PansThepanyouusewillaffectthefinalconsistencyofyourdish.Ifyoucookacurryinafryingpan,therewillbemoreevaporationthaninasaucepanand

thereforeyouwillhaveathickersauceandmayneedtoaddabitofwaterduringcookingtopreventthefoodfromstickingtothebottomofthepan.Itendtouseafryingpanforrecipeswithshortercookingtimes–upto30minutes–orfor‘drier’dishessuchasstir-fries,andasaucepanforrecipeswithmeatorlentilsthattakelongerorthosethatarecookedinliquid,suchascurries.

Afewgoodfryingpanswillbeenough–Iusea30cmoneforacurryforfourpeopleandyou’llfindthata25cmonecanbeusedforsmallerportions.Alittle15cmpancanbeusedforthatall-importanttechniquecalled‘tadka’,wherespiceseedsarefriedinhotoilandpouredoverthemaindish.Indiankitchenshaveababykarahi,asmallroundbowlthatsitssafelyonagashob.

Goodnonstickpansworkwellforquickcookingandfor‘dry’dishessuchasvegetablestir-fried‘subji’andironskilletscanhelpsealandbrownfoodslikefishoronions.Lidsreducethecookingtimesoffoodsbysealingintheheatandalsoavoidevaporationofliquid.

Heavystainless-steelornonstick3-litresaucepanscanbeusedforcurries,ricedishesandlentils.Chooseonewithalidasthiscanincreasepressurewithinthepan,sealinjuicesotherwiselostbyevaporationandreducecookingtimes.

Blender/mortarandpestleInthedaysbeforeblenders,peopleusedgrindingstones.Theseareflatstoneslabswithaheavy,roundedgrindingstonethatarestillusedinsomepartsofIndia.Stonegroundcurrypastesaremoreconcentratedastheyuselesswatertoachieveaveryfinepuréethandoelectricblenders.Mostmodernkitchenswillhaveapowerfulelectricblenderandthesehavevariousattachmentsfordryandwetgrindingandcanpulverisethehardestspicestoafine,softpowderormakesmoothcurrypastes.Ifbuyingablender,chooseonethat’sover500Wasyou’llgetafinerproductasthewattagegoeshigher.Indianrestaurantsusuallyhave1000Wprofessionalblenders.

IfirmlybelievethatyoudonotneedtogrindupspiceseverytimeyoucookanIndianmeal.Itisfinetouseready-boughtspicesalthoughsome,suchasgroundcorianderorgarammasala,certainlylosetheirvigourveryquicklyandarebestgroundathome.

Somespicessuchasgarammasalacanbeeasilymadeinasmallelectricspicegrinder.Ihavealittleonewithapush-downtopthatblitzeswholespicesinafewseconds.Alternatively,useamortarandpestle.Whenbuyingone,bearin

mindthatitmustbeheavyandhardenoughtocrushtoughspiceseeds.Ifindthataceramiconeistoodelicateforrobustspicecrushing.Mykitchenhasthreepestleandmortars:asmall,antiquebrassonethatIuseforsmallquantitiesof‘sweet’ingredientssuchascardamomandpistachios;ashallow,roughwoodenonetopounddryspices,andalarge,deepgraniteonefor‘wet’grinding,suchasmakingginger-garlicorgreenchillipasteorforpulverisingherbsandfriedspicemixes.Bashingawaywithapestleandmortarisoneofthemosttherapeutictasksinakitchen!ManyIndiancookstrulybelievethathand-crushedspicesandcurrypastestastefarbetterthanthosemadeinelectricmachinesandIthinkthatahappyblendofbothtechniqueswillachieveagoodflavourwithanefficientuseoftimeandenergy!

Somepeopleuseacoffeegrindertogrindsmallquantitiesofspicesveryeffectively.However,remembertowashitwellafteruseoryoumightendupwithspice-flavouredcoffeethenexttimeyouuseyourmachine.Anotherwaytocrushtoastedspiceseedsistoputthembetweensheetsofgreaseproofpapertostopthemfromflyingaboutandrolloverthemwitharollingpin.IalwayshaveapeppermilloftoastedgarammasalaspicesthatIcanfreshlycrushovercurries.

Evenifyourkitcheniswellstockedwithmostoftheabove,it’susefultoknowabout,andexcitingtoown,somespecialisedortraditionalIndianequipment.

SpicetinInallmyyearsofteachingcookery,Ihavecomeacrosssomanywaysinwhichpeoplestoretheirspices.Ihaveathree-waysystematmycookeryschool(Ibuylargebags,thendecantintojarsandthenintomyspicetin)butmostIndianhomescangetbyverywellwithatwo-tierprocessiftheybuysmallquantities.

Firstly,onebuysthepackofspices(formoreonspices).Thesearedecantedintoaspicebox,whichtypicallyhassevencompartments.EveryIndianhomehasthisspiceboxor‘masaladabba’–it’smostoftenround,madeofstainlesssteelandhassmallbowlsthatfitsnuglyinside.Someboxeshaveadoublelidtosealinthefreshness.Inmyschool,bulkbuyingofspicesmeansthatIstorelargerpacksinmyspicecupboard.ThesearedecantedintosmallcontainerswhicharestoredinmyhandykitchencupboardandfromwhereIdecantthemintomy‘masaladabba’acoupleoftimeseachweek.

Iliketobelievethatasaneverydayspiceboxhassevencompartments,onesurelymustnotneedtousemorethansevenspicesforone’sdailycooking!

surelymustnotneedtousemorethansevenspicesforone’sdailycooking!Interestingly,thesevenspicesinthetinmayvaryfromoneregionofIndiatoanotherbutafewkeyspicessuchasturmeric,chilli,cuminandcorianderremainthesamethroughoutthecountry.

Kadhai/karahiThislookssomewhatsimilartoawokbutismadeofathickermaterial,hasaroundbottomandcomeswithtwosmallhandlesornone.Itisalsoheavier,makingitmorestableonthehob.Itistypicallysoldwithapairoftongscalled‘chimta’or‘pakkad’.Thetongs,heldinonehand,helptosteadythekarahiasonestirswiththeotherhand.Onecanthenliftthekarahiwiththetongs,butthisneedsatightgripandlotsofpractice!Akarahiwilloftencomeasasetwithalid.

Karahisareusuallymadeofstainlesssteel,aluminiumoranalloyofmixedmetalsandcomeinvaryingsizes.Itisalsopossibletofindnonstickonesbuttheseneedtobeusedwithcareastheycangetscratchedwithabrasiveutensils.Iusea35cm(diameter)karahiforacurryforfouralthoughIhaveahugesetofkarahisinvaryingsizesallstackedupinmykitchendrawer.Thebestthingaboutmypansisthattheyget‘seasoned’witheveryuse,makingthemvirtuallynonstick,andtheyaredishwashersafe.ManyrestaurantsservedisheslikeKarahiPaneerorBaltiChickenwhichhavebeencookedinsuchadish.ThelargestkarahisIhaveseenareatAmberFortinRajasthanandeachonecansafelyhold5–6people!Youwouldneedaladdertoclimbintoitthough…

Karahisareusedforfryingastheconvexshapeallowstheoiltopoolatthebottom,thususingmuchlessoilthanonewouldneedinafryingpan.InIndia,karahisusedforcookingmaysometimesdoubleupasservingdishesbuttheoppositeneverhappens.Oftenmadeofburnishedcopper,brassorsilver,tablewarekarahisaretoolightforhobuse.Smallerinsizeorforfamily-styleservice,theymayhaveflattenedbottomstositsecurelyonatable.

PressurecookerIcannotvouchfortheseenough.Theycutdownoncookingtimesandareveryfuelefficient,too.Bestofall,theysealinnutrientsandretainthejuicesinthefood.ManyWesterncookshavesaidtomethattheyarefrightenedofpressurecookersblowingupbuthonestlyspeaking,modernonesaremuchsaferthantheonesthatwereused40–50yearsago.Therearetwotypesofpressurecooker:thewhistlingoneandsteam-releasetype.Indiancooksusethewhistlingpressurecookerandit’snotuncommontofindrecipesthataskyoutocookacurryfor3–4whistles.

PressurecookerscomeinvarioussizesandIhaveaboutfiveinmykitchen–smallonesforeverydaycookingandthelargestoneforentertaining.Thereisnorealsubstituteforapressurecooker.MostIndianhomeshaveatleastoneanditisusedforcookingmeats,lentils,potatoesandevenrice.Withoutapressurecooker,thesamecurrycantaketwoorthreetimestheamountoftimetocook.

CoconutscraperInIndia,wherecoconutinspiresthecuisineofmanystates,and

especiallyinsouthernIndia,acoconutscraperisfoundinthemajorityofhomes.Thisisaflat,woodenbasetowhichasickle-shapedbladeisattached(seephotobelow).Thishasaserratedfanattheend,whichisusedtoscrapeoutthewhitefleshfromthecoconutshell.Thebladeisusedtochopmeatandvegetables.Thewholedeviceisplacedonthefloorandonehastositontheplinthtouseit.Moderncoconutscraperscanbefixedtothekitchencounter,lockedintoplaceandstoredawayafteruse.Coconutcanalsobeeffectivelygratedinafoodprocessorafterbreakingopentheshellandprisingawaythefleshwithasmall,sharpknife.

TavaAtavaortawaisaflatorslightlycurvedgriddleforcookingchapattis/rotisorotherbreadson.Sometimesvegetablesormeatsarealsocookedonatavaandarecalled‘tavafry’–thesearepopularatIndianweddingswheretavasaslargeas3–4feetindiameteraresetuptoserveover1,000guests!

Indiankitchensoftenhaveanirontava,whichwhenseasonedandusedcorrectlycanlastalifetime.InIndia,this‘seasoning’happensthroughregularuse.IntheWestwherethetavamaynotbeusedafewtimesadayasitisinIndia,itmayneedtobe‘seasoned’tomakeitalmostnonstickandrustfree.Applyathincoatingofsunfloweroilandputthepaninanovenatthehighesttemperaturepossiblefor1hour.Removeandleaveittocool.Ifyoudonotuse

temperaturepossiblefor1hour.Removeandleaveittocool.Ifyoudonotuseyourpanonceeverycoupleofweeks,youwillhavetorepeatthisprocess.

AWesternsubstituteforatavaisa25cmnonstickfryingpanthatcancomfortablyholdaroti.

DegchiThisisaround,tall,thick-bottomedpanmostlymadeofaluminium,stainlesssteelorbrassthatisusedformakingdisheswithaliquidbasesuchascurries,dalsandmilk-basedpuddings.Adegchioftenhasalipforeaseofholdingandmovingfromthehobtothekitchencounteraftercookinghasfinished.A‘pakkad’isusedtoclaspthedegchiaroundthelip.Asaucepancaneasilyreplaceadegchi.

HandiAhandiisacircularpanorpotmadeofmetalorclaythathasacurved,saucer-likelid.Itisfairlythicktoallowlong,slowcooking.Aclayhandiisusedforone-potcookingwherealltheingredientsareplacedinitandgentlysautéedtosealthefoodandblendflavours.Enoughliquidisadded,thelidisthensealedwithathickdoughofflourandwaterandtheentirepotisplacedonawoodorcoalfire.Thelidcanbeusedtoplacehotcoalson.Thisiscalled‘dumpukht’,cookingmadepopularbytheNawabsofAwadhinnorthernIndiaandisstillusedinsomepartsofIndia.Restaurantsservingdumpukhtdishesinbigcities,suchasMumbaiandNewDelhi,aresoughtafterandattractdinerswhoarenotabletomakethiskindofsmokyfoodintheirurbankitchens.

IdlisteamerThispieceofequipmentisfoundinallsouthIndianhomesbutyouwillneeditonlyifyouplantomakeidlis–small,spongyriceandlentilcakes–atleastafewtimesamonth.Anidlisteamerismadeofmetal(moretraditionalandusedonthehob)orplastic(morerecent,foruseinamicrowave)andhasasetofindentedlayersinside.Bothworkwellenough.Thebatterispouredintotheindentsandsteamed.Aneggpoacherorlittleindividualbowlsplacedinasteamercanbeusedinstead.

SequenceofCooking

Indiancookeryisasetoforchestratedprocessesthatwillresultintherightflavour,colour,textureandaroma.Thisisthesequence.Itisinfluencedbyhow

flavour,colour,textureandaroma.Thisisthesequence.Itisinfluencedbyhowlongeachingredienttakestocooktoperfectioninthatparticularrecipe.Forexample,acurryrecipewherebrownedonionsaretobegroundtoapastewillneedthoseonionstobestir-friedslowlyattherighttemperatureuntiltheyaresoftandcookedthrough.Iftheonionsarenotcookedallthewaythrough,therewillbeanunpleasanttasteofrawonionsinthefinaldish.

Thesequenceisalsodeterminedbyhoweachingredientinfluencestheother.Addinganacidsuchastomatoeswhilecookinglentilsincreasesthecookingtimeandcooksthedalunevenly.

Itisbestnottotakeshortcutswhilecookingbecauserecipeshavebeenwrittenwiththissequenceinmind.Ofcourse,eachcookmayvarythisslightly–somefrygingerandgarlicbeforeaddingonionstothepan,whichcanresultinadeeper,smokiertaste.Iaddthemaftertheonionsarealmostcookedtopreventthemfromburning(typicallyonionstake8–10minutestocook,whereasgarlicandgingertakejust3–4)andforamorebalancedflavour.

Spicesareespeciallyimportantinthissequence.Seedspicesandpowderstakedifferenttimestocookandarethereforeaddedtothepanatvaryingtimes.Rawspiceswillbringanunappetisingbitternesstothedish.

Colourisanimportantconsiderationandeachingredientmustbeallowedtodeveloptherightcolourorbecookedinsuchawaythatitdoesnotcolouratall.Rich,goldenmeatcurriesgettheirlovelycolourfromthebrowningofonionsandspices.

DRYINGREDCHILLIES,KISHANGARHFORT,KISHANGARH,RAJASTHAN.DRIEDREDCHILLIESADDCOLOURASWELLASADEEP,SMOKYINTENSITYOF

FLAVOURTOMANYINDIANDISHES.

THESPICECUPBOARDINANINDIANKITCHENALWAYSHOLDSPRIDEOFPLACE.PROPERLYSTOREDSPICES,USEDJUDICIOUSLY,CANMAKEALLTHEDIFFERENCETOA

BALANCED,DELICIOUSMEAL.

SPICESUsingspicesforhealth→Weusespicesforseveralreasons–firstandforemostfortheirhealth-givingproperties.Allspicesaregoodforone’shealthifeateninmoderation.Turmeric,whichismyfavouritespice,isusedbothfreshasarootandinpowderform.Itcontainstheantioxidantcurcumin,thoughttohelpconditionssuchasasorethroatandpossiblypreventcancer.

Chilli,inmoderation,canactivatethesalivaandgastricjuicesandhelpustodigestfoodbetter.Blackpepper,whichisnativetosouthernIndia,containsanessentialoilcalledpiperinewhichcanaidtheabsorptionofnutrientssuchasseleniumandbetacarotenefromourfood.Pepperisaddedtomanycurrieseitheronitsownoraspartofgarammasala,afragrant,warmspiceblend.

Usingspicesforflavour→Thearomaticoilsinspicesareusedtoimpartflavourtocooking.Theseoilsarereleasedintwoways–byheatingandbycrushingorsplitting.Thisiswhyspiceseedsandspicepowdersbehavedifferentlyinthecookingprocess.Theseedsrequireahighercookingtemperaturetosplitthemwhereasthepowdersneedmoderateheattoreleasetheiroils.

Usingspicesforcolour→Indianrecipesarecreatedkeepinginmindnotjustflavourbutalsocolour,textureandtemperature.Turmericaddsabrightgoldencolourtomanysavourydishesandasitdoesnotchangetheflavourgreatly,Indiancookswilladdatinytouchmoreiftheythinkthatthedishlookstoopaleaftertheyhavefinishedcookingit.Fryingspicepowdersinoilatthestartcanaddtothefinaldarkcolourofthedish.

Usingspicestoincreaseshelflife→Somespicesareknowntohaveantimicrobialpropertiesandcanhelptopreservefoodsforlonger.Mustard,cinnamonandclovesareparticularlyeffectiveandmanypicklesinIndiacontainsplitmustardseedsforthisreason.

SpiceSeeds

Iftherecipehasoilandseeds,theseedswillalwaysgointotheoilfirst,withtherestoftheingredientsaddedontopinasequencethatdependsonthetimetakenforeachofthemtocook.Seedsarealsofriedinoilandpouredontopofadishastemperingor‘tadka’.Isimplywarmtheoiloverahighheatratherthanallowingittobecomeblazinghotbeforeaddingtheseedstothepan.ThisgivesmecontrolasIwatchthespiceseedsslowlypoporsizzleratherthanflyoutofthepanorpossiblyburniftheoilistoohot.

TOASTINGSPICESEEDSSpiceseedsaresometimesdry-toastedandcrushedforfreshnessofflavour.Notallspicesneedtobecrushedeverysingletimeyoumakeameal.TheonesthatIwouldrecommendbecrushedathomearecorianderseeds,cuminseedsandgarammasala.Simplytoastthespiceseedsinadryfryingpantoreleasetheiraromaticoilsanddryoutanyresidualmoisture,makingthembrittleandeasiertocrush.Assoonasthepanishot,inamatterofseconds,theywilldarkenanddevelopanaroma.Tipthemintoamortarandpestleoraspicemillandcrushthemtoapowder.Forthefreshestflavourofall,youcanputtoastedgarammasalaspicesinapeppermilland,withafewturnseachtime,sprinklethemontocurriesjustbeforeserving.

Tip:Whenmakingapowderedblend,makesurethatthetoastedspicesarecompletelycoolbeforecrushingorblitzingthemotherwisetheywillbecomecakeyandformlumps.

POWDEREDORGROUNDSPICESPowderedorgroundspices,ontheotherhand,cangoinatthreedifferentstagesofthecooking.Ifyouwantdepthofflavour,theygointothewarmoilatthebeginning.Astheoilheatsup,youwillseethreedistinctstages.Thisistrueofseedsandpowders.

1Thespiceswillpop,crackleorsizzle.

2Theywillchangecolour(exceptforblackorbrownmustardseeds).3Theywilldevelopacookedaroma.

Whencookingspicepowdersinoil,itissometimesdifficulttoestimateexactlywhentheyare‘done’.Youcanaddacoupleoftablespoonsofwatertothepanandletitcookforafewminutesuntilthewaterhasevaporated,leavingthespicessizzlingintheoil.Thearomawillhavechangedfrombeingquitestrongtobecomingmellow.Indianrecipesalsoaskforspicepowderstobemixedintoalittlewaterandthenaddedtothepan.Thisallowsthemtocookwithoutscorching.

Thesestagesprogresswithinsecondswhentheoilhasreachedthecorrecttemperature,sobesuretohaveyournextingredientcloseathand.Ifyouhaveseedsinthepan,youcanaddanyingredient,suchasonions,tomatoes,chillies,meatorvegetablesnext.However,ifyouarecookingspicepowders,youwillhavetoaddaliquidingredientassoonasthespicesarecooked.Thiscouldbetomatoes,tamarindpulp,cookedlentilsorcurrypastes.

Mostofmyrecipesaskyoutosprinkleinthegroundspicesontopofingredientsthathavereducedthetemperatureofthepan.Forexample,theonionsgointotheoilatthebeginning.Whentheysoftenenough,theginger,garlicandfreshchilliesareadded.Tomatoesmaybenext,followedbythespicepowders.Thisway,thetemperatureinthepanisnothighenoughtoburnthespicesunless,ofcourse,itisleftontheheatunattendedfortoolong.

Somespicepowdersareusedas‘finishingspices’.Theusualonesareredchillipowderandtoastedcuminpowder,whichareoftenseensprinkledonsalads,streetfoodcalled‘chaat’andyogurt-basedcurries.Garammasalaisalsodustedontocurriesforatopnoteofaromaandwarmth.

MyFiveBasicSpices

TURMERIC→OneofthemosttraditionalandversatilespicesusedinIndiancooking,turmericistheheartandsoulofanycurry.ThiskeyingredientisuseddailyineverypartofIndiaasitsuniquecolour,duetothepresenceofthepigmentcurcumin,andflavourenrichesallregionalcuisine.

Asfortheroot,onlycuredturmerichasthearomaandcolour(chieflyduetothepresenceofcurcumin)necessaryforcooking.Turmerichasanearthy,sensualfragranceandamusky,drytaste,butitisusedwholeheartedlyinIndiancookingforitswonderfulqualityofenhancingandbalancingtheflavoursofalltheotheringredients.However,becarefulnottouseturmericwhencookinggreenvegetablesastheywillturndullandtastebitter.Bewarywhenstoringandusingturmericasitwillstainhandsandclothesquitequickly.

CHILLIPOWDER→Chillipowderisusednotonlyforitsheatbutalsoforitscolour.Manyvarietiesofchillies,suchasKashmiriredchillies,arebrightredbutonlymoderatelyhot.Theyaresometimessoakedinwaterorvinegarandgroundtoapastetoaddacertaincolourandsmokinesstocurries.Byadagichillies,growninKarnataka,aredeceptivelydeepredincolourbuthaveminimalheat.Commerciallyavailablechillipowderisusuallyablendofseveralvarietiesandissoldinextrahot,hot,mediumandmildversions.Ithinkit’sbesttobuythemoderateversion.Interestingly,inIndia,theBhutJolokia,whichhasacquiredcelebrityasoneoftheworld’shottestchillies,israrelyseenoutsideofthenorth-easternregionwhereitisgrown.

IntheWest,chilliesfromallovertheworld,includingThailandandIndia,areimportedandcanbeseennexttoeachotherinsupermarkets.Iusebird’s-eyechillies,variouslycalled‘longthin’or‘thingreen’chillies.

CUMIN→Cuminseedsareelongated,ovalandlong.Theyrangefromsage-greentotobacco-brownincolourandhavelongitudinalridges.Anothervarietyofcuminisblackcumin(‘kalajeera’,‘shahijeera’or‘siyajeera’):theseedsaredarkbrowntoblackandaresmallerandfinerthancumin.Thesmellofcuminis

distinctive;itcanbedescribedasstrongandbitterandisusuallylovedorhated.Cuminhasawarm,somewhatbittertaste.

Itisavailablewholeasseeds,orcrushedtoapowder,whichisoftenblendedwithgroundcoriandertoformawidelyusedmixturecalled‘dhana-jeera’.ThiscombinationisoneoftheessentialspiceblendsusedinIndiancookery.Toastedcuminpowdergivesalifttomanycurriesandyogurt-basedraitas.

CORIANDER→ThisprettyherbisthemostcommonlyusedgarnishinnorthernandwesternIndia,andaddsadewy-greentouchtoredorbrowncurries.Seedsofthecorianderplantarethespice.Corianderisperhapsoneofthefirstspicesknowntomanandhasbeenaroundforover3,000years.

Corianderleavesandseedsarecompletelydifferentwithregardstoaromaandflavour.Theleavestasteandsmellfreshandfruitywithahintofginger.Theseeds,ontheotherhand,haveasweetaromawithasubtlewhiffofpineandpepper.Littlebunchesoffreshcorianderarecommonlyavailableatgreengrocersandsupermarkets.Itlooksquitelikeparsleybutthetestliesinthearoma–parsleyhasamoredelicatesmellthancoriander.

MUSTARDSEEDS→Therearethreemainvarietiesofmustardseeds:yellow,andtheonesusedinIndiancooking–brownandblack–whichareinterchangeable.Rawmustardseedshavealmostnosmell,butoncookingtheyacquireadistinctive,acrid,baked-eartharomathatdominatesanydish.Theseedsaresharp,nutty,slightlybitterandaromaticintaste.Theirheatisoftenmisjudged,sobecarefulwhenaddingthemtorecipes.Mustardpastehasauniqueflavourthathitsyouinthenose.

Indiancookingdoesnotusecommerciallyblendedmustardsbuttheycanmakeareasonablesubstituteforhomemademustardpaste.InsouthIndiaandalongthecoast,mustardisusedprimarilyastempering(seehere).InBengal,mustardseedsarecrushedtoapasteforuseinfierymarinadesandcurries.

OTHERSPICESTHATICOMMONLYUSEARE:

Cinnamon→Cinnamon(7)isanevergreentreeofthelaurelfamily.Thedriedinnerbarkofthecinnamontreeisthespiceusedincooking.Iusecinnamonsticksforbiryanisandcurrypastesastheyhaveamorepowerfulflavourthanshop-boughtgroundcinnamon.Notallrecipescallforcinnamonandit’snotoneoftheeverydayspicesinIndiancooking.Whenused,itisoftenaddedwholeintocurriesorrice,soit’sbesttocrushthesticksinamortarandpestleasandwhenneeded.Itisalsoanessentialpartofthestandardblendofgarammasala.

Cardamom→Cardamom(1)isoneofthemostexpensivespicesintheworld.Thefat,greenpodsgrowninKerala,southIndia,areconsideredthebest.Cardamompodsareovalcapsulescontaininghard,darkbrownseedsthatarestickyandclingtogether.Thetwomainvarietiesaregreenandblack.Thegreenoneshavea‘sweet’aromaandareusedindessertsorsavourydishes,whereastheblackonesaresmokyandareonlyusedinrichsavourydishes.

Asafoetida(Hing)→AlthoughnotnativetoIndia,asafoetida(5)hasforcenturiesbeenanessentialpartofIndiancookeryandmedicine.Asafoetidaisthedriedlatexfromtherhizomesofseveralspeciesofferulaorgiantfennel.ItisgrownchieflyinIranandAfghanistanfromwhereitisexportedtotherestoftheworld.Asafoetidahasapungent,unpleasantsmellquitelikethatofpickledeggs,duetothepresenceofsulphurcompounds.Thispungencyreduceswhenthespiceiscookedanditacquiresanaromalikethatofcookedonionsandgarlic.Itspowerfulsmellcomplementslentils,vegetablesandpickles.ItisoftenusedasadigestivespiceinvegetariancookeryandinplaceofgarlicinthecookeryofsomereligionssuchasJainismthatforbidtheuseofgarlicoranyingredientgrownundergroundasitcouldleadtothedestructionoflifewhentheseareuprooted.Itisalwaysusedinsmallquantities–apinchaddedtohotoilbeforetheotheringredientsisenoughtoflavouradishforfour.

MangoPowder(Amchoor)→Mangopowder(3)ismadefromraw,sour,green

mangoes,especiallywindfallsorwildmangoes.Theunripefruitsarepeeled,cutintothinslices,driedandpowderedtomakeafruity,sourspicethatisusedasasouringagent,especiallyindryrecipesthatwouldchangebytheadditionofawetingredient.AmchoorisavailableinspecialitysupermarketsintheWestandcanbesubstitutedwithlemonjuice.

Pepper→InIndia,pepper(4)isusedineverytypeofregionalcookery,oftenaspartofagarammasalablend.Itcanbecookedwiththemainingredientsorsprinkledontopasafinishingspice.

Ajowan(Ajwain)→Ajowan(2)isacloserelativeofdill,carawayandcumin.Thefragranceofthespiceisverysimilartothatoforegano.Ajowangoesparticularlywellwithgreenbeans,rootvegetablesandindishesthatareflour-based,allofwhichformanimportantpartofIndia’svastvegetariancuisine.SnackslikeBombaymixandonionbhajiasdependonspiceslikeajowanfortheiruniqueflavour.

Saffron→Atonetime,saffron(6)grewwildinPersiaandAsiaMinorbuttodayIndiaandSpainaretheonlymajorproducers.InIndiaitonlygrowsinthevalleyofKashmir.SaffronisthedriedstigmasoftheCrocussativus,aperennialbulb,whichflowersforjusttwoweeksinlateOctober.InIndiathelavender-blueblossomsarepluckedatdawnbeforethehotsunwiltsthem.Thenthedelicatestigmasareprisedoutfromwithineachfloweranddriedartificiallyorinthesun.

Saffronismadeupoffine,orange-goldthreadsthataresolightthat750,000handpickedflowersyieldonlyabout450g.Whenfresh,saffronisbrightandglossy,butexposuretolightandairmakesitdullandbrittle.Puresaffronisbelievedtobeabletocolourandflavour70,000timesitsweightinliquid.Itsintense,muskyaromasuffusesthedishtowhichithasbeenaddedandthetasteisdelicateandonlyveryslightlybitter.Itisthemostexpensivespiceintheworldduetoitsscarcity,fragilityandflavour.Thatiswhythetemptationtoadulterateitisconsiderable.Theusualadulterantissafflower,aptlycalled‘bastardsaffron’.Cheaperandwiththickerstrandsthansaffron,itwillturnfoodgoldenbutwillnotflavourit.

Saffronenhancessavouryfoodaswellassweet.Afewstrandssoakedina

littlewarmwaterormilkandaddedtothedishalongwiththeliquidaddafragrantrichness.Itespeciallycomplementsmilkdesserts,ricepulaosandbiryanisandwhitemeatssuchasfishandchicken.

SPICEBLENDSANDCURRYPOWDERS

Thereisnooneblendcalled‘currypowder’inIndia.Eachregionandeverycommunityofpeoplehasauniquerecipespecialtothatgroup.Herearesomebasicrecipesthatwillmakeabatchofafewtablespoons.

HowtostorespicesIfstoredproperly,spiceseedswilllastuptoayear.Powdersandpowderedspiceblendsshouldideallybeusedupin6months.

GaramMasala

Someofthemostexpensivespicesgointothemakingofgarammasala(literally‘warmingspices’)andthereareasmanyrecipesforitastherearehouseholdsinIndia.Dependingonindividualtaste,theproportionsofthevariousingredientscanbeadjustedtomakethisanaromaticratherthanhotblend.Ihavecreatedmyblendasbelowusingspicesforaroma(cardamom,cinnamon,fennel)aswellasforbulkingandthickeningcurries(coriander,cumin).Ialsokeepawayfromrecipesthathavealonglistofingredientsassomegarammasalamixesdo,andfindthatthisrecipeissufficientlyaromatic.

Garammasalaisusedwholeorgrounddependingonwhat’scooking.Thebasicblendincludescloves,cinnamon,cardamom,peppercorns,bayleaf,mace,cuminandcorianderseeds.Commercially-boughtgarammasalaisquitegoodifusedwithinacoupleofmonths.Theblendiseasytogrindathome,soitisbesttobuywhole,plumpspicesandcrushtheminanelectricgrinder,coffeemillorusingamortarandpestle.Thismixturecanthenbestoredinanairtightcontainerforupto6months.

Indiancooksusegarammasalainsmallamounts.Itcanbeaddedatdifferentstagesofcookingfordifferentdegreesofflavour.Itisalsousedasafinishingspice.

1teaspoonblackpeppercorns2teaspoonscuminseeds2cmpieceofcinnamonstick10greencardamompods,deseededandhusksdiscarded5blackcardamompods,deseededandhusksdiscarded10cloves

3bayleaves2bladesofmace1teaspoonfennelseeds2teaspoonscorianderseeds

1Heatadryfryingpanoveramediumheat,addthespicesanddry-toastuntiltheystarttodarkenandbecomearomatic.Removefromtheheatandleavetocoolcompletelybeforegrindingtoafinepowderinaspicemillorusingamortarandpestle.Storeinanairtightcontainerinacool,darkplaceandconsumewithin6months.Youcanalsoputthewholetoastedspicesintoapeppermilltouseasandwhenrequired.

SambharPowder

ThisspiceblendisfoundineverysouthIndianhome.Ready-madesambharpowderisavailableinIndiabutyoucanmakeyourownquiteeasilyasitisnotasreadilyavailableintheWest.ItgoesmainlyintosambharorsouthIndiandal,orintovegetabledishes.

1teaspoonblackmustardseeds1teaspoonfenugreekseeds2teaspoonscuminseeds1teaspoonblackpeppercorns1teaspooncorianderseeds1teaspoontoordal

1teaspoonsplitblacklentils(uraddal)1teaspoongroundturmeric¼teaspoonasafoetida

1Heataheavy-basedpanoveramediumheat,addthewholespicesonebyoneanddry-toast.Keeptheheatlowandstirconstantlytostopthemfromburning.Theseedswillcrackleandflyoutsobeware!Whentheyhavedarkenedandbegintosmoke,tipeachspiceintoabowl.2Inthesamepan,dry-toastthetoordalfor5–6minutesuntilitstartstochangecolour,thentipthisintothetoastedspicemix.Dry-toasttheuraddalfor4–5minutesandaddthisinaswell.3Leavethemixturetocoolcompletely,thenaddtheturmericandasafoetidaandgrindinaspicemillormortarandpestleuntilfine.Storeinanairtightcontainerinacool,darkplaceandconsumewithin6months.

GodaMasala

ThisMaharashtrianspiceblendisadark,aromaticpowderwithaburntsweetnesswhichcomesfromthecoconutinthemixture.

1teaspoonsunfloweroil1cmpieceofcinnamonstick5cloves5greencardamompods,deseededandhusksdiscarded2bayleaves2teaspoonswhitesesameseeds2teaspoonscorianderseeds4tablespoonsdesiccated

coconut10blackpeppercorns2tablespoonswhitepoppyseeds

1Heattheoilinafryingpanoveramediumheat,thenaddthecinnamon,cloves,cardamomseedsandbayleavesandfryfor2–3minutesuntiltheclovesswell.Removefromthepan,wipeitdryandusethesamepanfordry-toasting.2Dry-toasttheremainingingredientsonebyoneoveralowheatuntiltheydarken.Thecoconutshouldbetoasteduntildarkbrown.Removefromtheheatandleavetocool,thengrindwiththefriedspicesinaspicemilluntilfine.Storeinanairtightcontainerinacool,darkplaceandconsumewithin6months.

KolhapuriMasala

ThisisafieryspiceblendfromKolhapurinMaharashtra.Itisusedinbothvegetableaswellasmeatorchickencurries.

10driedredchillies2tablespoonssesameseeds1tablespooncorianderseeds1tablespooncuminseeds1

tablespoonfreshlygroundblackpepper1teaspoonfenugreekseeds6cloves1tablespoonblackorbrownmustardseeds50gdesiccatedcoconut½teaspoongroundnutmeg1teaspoonmediumhotredchillipowder

1Heatafryingpanoveramediumheatanddry-toastthespices(exceptthenutmegandchillipowders)andcoconutonebyoneforafewminutes.Thespiceswillbegintosizzleandpopandthecolourofthechilliesandthecoconutwilldarken.Removefromtheheat,asovercookingthemwillmakethespicesbitter.Tipintoabowl.2Leavetocoolcompletely,thenblitztoafinepowderinacoffeemill.Storeinanairtightcontainerinacool,darkplaceandconsumewithin6months.

PanchPhoron

ThisBengalispiceblendisusedwholeorinpowderform.Itendtokeepmyblendintheseedform.InBengal,themixwouldcontain‘radhuni’(wildceleryseeds).AsthesearenotsowidelyavailableintheWest,cookssubstitutethemwithmustardseeds.

Mixequalquantitiesof:CuminseedsFennelseedsFenugreekseedsBlackmustardseedsorradhuniNigellaseeds

1Storethemixinseedformordry-toastthespicesandcrushthemtoafinepowderinaspicemillorusingamortarandpestle.Storeinanairtightcontainerinacool,darkplaceandconsumewithin6monthsifpowdered,orwithinayearifstoredinseedform.

1PanchPhoron;2GodaMasala;3KolhapuriMasala;4SambharPowder;5GaramMasala.

ThengaiSadamChettinadMuttonBiryaniPulaoRiceElumichaiSadamVangiBhaathTamaterPulaoKoftaPulaoMungDalKhichdiSubziyonKiTahiriHyderabadiKucchiBiryaniKolmiBhaatPudinaPulaoMosarannaMushroomPulaoKovilPulihodaraiParsi-styleBrownRice

RICEORIGINATEDASAWILDGRASSINTHEREGIONOFWHATWENOWCALLCHINA.OryzasativaHASTWOMAJORSUBSPECIESTHATWEUSETODAY–THESHORT-GRAINED,STICKYJAPONICAUSEDINTHAIANDOTHEREASTASIANCUISINESANDTHEFLUFFY,

LONG-GRAINEDINDICAUSEDININDIANCOOKERY.

TheYajurveda(c.1200–1,000BCE),oneofthefourkeySanskrittextsofHinduism,describesthemakingofricecakesasaritualofferingtoAgni,theGodofFire.TheShunyaPurana,writtenbyRamaitheWiseinthe10th–11thcenturyAD,statesthat50varietiesofrice,suchasNagra,Jhinga-salandPanloi,weregrowninBengaleventhen.Manyofthosevarietiesarenowextinctbutthesethreevarietiesarestillbeingconservedonspecialfarmsbyriceconservationists.

EarlyEuropeanvisitorstoIndiawerenotfamiliarwithrice.Aristobulus,whocamewithAlexandertheGreataround326BCE,describeditasastrangeplantstandinginwater,andtheGreekexplorerMegasthenesdescribeditasbeingastapleintheIndiandiet.

Indianshaveauniquerelationshipwithrice.BesidesbeingattheheartofmanyregionalcuisinessuchasTamilianandBengali,itisalsoassociatedwithreligiousandsocialritualsandsacraments.TraditionalHinducookerydifferentiatesbetween‘kaccha’and‘pukka’foods;kacchaarethosethatarecookedinwaterandareconsumedinthekitchen.Pukkafoodsarecookedingheeandcanbetakenoutofthekitchenforpublicconsumption.Theserulesweremadeforreasonsofhealthandhygienebutbecamereligiouspracticesofpurity.Eventodaytemplefoodsarepukkafoodsandoftenincludefrieddelicaciessweetenedwithjaggeryorsugar.Ricewasakacchafoodandcouldonlybeeatenfresh.

The‘annaprashana’Hindusacramentiswhenachildisgiventheirfirstsolidfoodandthisisalmostalwayssomesoftricemixedwithcreamyhomemadeghee.Funeralsaremarkedwithriceballsbeingofferedtotheancestorsasasymbolicmealintheirhonour.

TheHindugoddessParvatiisalsocalled‘Annapurna’(providerofabountyofrice).InaHinduwedding,ricecolouredwithturmericandvermilionisscatteredoverthecoupletosignifysustenanceandfertility.Abrideentersherhusband’shousebyoverturningasmallpotofrawricewithhertoe,invitinggoodluckandprosperityintohernewhome.

goodluckandprosperityintohernewhome.Eventoday,therice-growingcultureofruralIndiaisinfluencedbythisbelief

inParvati.Inthetoprice-cultivatingregionssuchasWestBengal,UttarPradeshandAndhraPradesh,wherethecuisinecentresaroundthisstaple,eachstageofproduction,suchasploughing,transplantation,harvestingandstoringthericeisdoneonanauspiciousdayandvariousritualscalled‘pujas’areperformed.

Apartfromthevastarrayofrituals,riceisanimportantpartofIndiancookery.EveryregionproducesitsownvarietyandalthoughoutsideofIndiabasmatiriceispopular,withinthecountrypeoplewilleattheirlocalriceonadailybasis.

InAndhraPradesh,amedium-grainaromaticricecalled‘sonamasuri’isfavoured.Inthesouth,aninexpensiveshort-grainedredricecalled‘matta’isprized,whereasinMaharashtraintheWestitistheshort-grained‘ambemohar’,whichsmellslikemangoflowerswhencooked.Inwealthierfamilies,basmatiriceiscookedonspecialoccasionsorforcertaindisheslikebiryanis.

EachregionofIndiahasuniquericepreparations.Itiscookedinitsgrainform,beatentomakeflatrice‘poha’orcrushedintoflourforbattersandpoppadums.InMaharashtraandsouthernIndiaitisservedincourses,accompaniedbyadifferentcurryorlentildisheachtime.Inasouthernhome,youwillbeservedricefirstwithspicylentil‘sambhar’,thenwithathinner‘rasam’andfinallywithplainyogurt.Inthenorth-east,variouscommunitiessuchastheKhamtisgrowtheirownrice,andinAssam,riceiscookedwithfragrantShewaliflowerstomakeaslightlybitterpreparationcalled‘teetabhaat’thatisservedatthebeginningofthemeal.

RiceprovidesamajorproportionofcaloriesintheIndiandiet.Itisalwayseatenincombinationwithdalorbeanstomakeacompleteprotein.Ricecontainsthecysteineandmethioninethatlentilslackandlentilsprovidethelysinethatricedoesnothaveenoughof.

RiceClassifications

SIZEOFGRAINLong-grainriceThegrainsareslimandfourtofivetimeslongerthantheyarewide.Theyareknowntocookfluffierthantheothervarietiesandarethereforeusuallymoreexpensive.Long-grainriceisusedinbiryanisandpulaos,suchasMurghDumBiryaniandPudinaPulao,asthericeneedstobefluffyandseparate.Medium-grainriceThegrainsarealmosttwiceaslongastheyarewideandcooksofterandmoisterthanlong-grainrice.Thisisusedineverydaymealsasithelpstoholdtogetherwetcurriesanddals.TypicalrecipesincludeMungDalKhichdiandMosaranna.Short-grainriceThislooksslightlyovalorroundinshape.Itisquitestarchyandmaybeusedforricepudding-styledishessuchasRiceKheerandPhirni.

PROCESSINGWhenriceisharvested,itisfirstcalled‘roughrice’andisstillcoveredbyanon-ediblehusk.Atthemill,roughriceisprocessedthroughsortingmachinesthatcleanthekernelsandremoveforeignmatter.

Thehuskisthenremoved,leavingbrownricewiththebranlayersstill

Thehuskisthenremoved,leavingbrownricewiththebranlayersstillsurroundingthericekernel.Grainsofbrownricearepolishedbyremovingthebranlayers,revealingwhiterice.Asthemostnutritiouslayersofthericegrainhavebeenremovedinthemillingprocess,whitericeisoftenenrichedwiththiamin,niacinandirontorestoreitbacktoitsoriginallevelsandhelppreventconditionssuchascardiovasculardiseaseandanaemia.

Someofthericeisseparatedtogothroughanextrainitialprocessingstepthatwillturnitintoparboiledrice.Parboiledriceisbrownricethatissteamedorparboiledsothatnutrientsfromtheouterhuskmoveintothegrainitself.

Basmati

HOWTOBUYBASMATIRICEThisisthemostwidelyavailableIndianriceallovertheworld.Itissoldundervariousbrandnames,andbagsofricesometimesmentionthatthericehasbeenaged.Basmatirice,likewine,getsbetterwithage.Top-qualitybasmatiisstoredfor1–2yearsinhighly-controlledconditions.Optimumtemperatureandlowmoisturelevelshelptodrythericeandhardentheoutershell.Thisenhancesandintensifiesitstaste,bouquetandcookingcharacteristics:oldricecooksupfluffy,withseparategrains,whilenewricecanbecomesticky.

InIndia,onecanaskthegrocerforagedriceanditwillbemoreexpensivethannewrice.Thereisawidepricerangeforbasmatirice,andbuyersintheWestoftenthinkthattheyarebeingaskedtopayforfancybrandnameswhereasinfact,itistheageingprocesstheyarepayingfor.

HowmuchtomakeAsageneralrule,allow50grawriceperperson.Dobearinmindwhatelseisbeingserved–ifyoualsohaveabreadorlotsofdifferentdishes,youwillneedabitless.

HOWTOCOOKBASMATIRICECleaningInIndia,ricealwayshastobecleanedasitissoldloosefromburlapsacks.Traditionallyitissiftedandcleanedina‘supdi’,asmall,flatcanebasketwherethericeistossedupanddowngentlytoseparateitfromtinystonesorforeignparticles.Itcanalsobespreadonawhitedinnerplateandsmall

quantitiesworkedtotheoppositesideoftheplate,pickingoutanyforeignobjects.OutsideofIndia,wherericeisalmostalwayssoldbagged,thisprocessisnotnecessary.

WashingIndianswillputriceintoabowlandpourincoldwaterfromthetap.Thenthefingersareswirledthroughtoloosenthestarchfromthegrainsandthewateriscarefullypouredoff.Withoutexperience,thismayseemtrickysoitisbesttowashthericeinasieveundercoldrunningwaterforacoupleofminutesuntilthewaterrunsclear.

SoakingAfterwashing,somecookssuggestsoakingthericeforanywherebetween15minutesto1hourtoallowthegrainstoabsorbmoisture,relaxandexpand.Basmatiricecookswell,dependingontherecipe,evenifitisn’tsoaked.

RiceCookingTips

HowtogetseparategrainsBuytherightbrandofrice–onethathasbeenagedandisthereforeabitpricier.Lightlyfryingthegrainsinafewdropsofcookingoilbeforeaddingwatermayhelpthegrainstocookupfluffyandlight.

ThetwomainmethodsYoucancookricebythedrainingortheabsorptionmethod.

Howmuchwater?Thiswilldependonvariousfactors,includingthevarietyandageoftherice,thedepthofthepanandthesourceandstrengthofheat.Inadeeppan,thereislessevaporationandyouwillneedslightlylesswaterthanifyouuseawidepan.Similarly,whencookingovergasorelectricheatyoumayneeddifferentamountsofwateraswellasdifferentcookingtimes.

Whichpantouse?Aheavy-basedsaucepanwithatight-fittinglidisessential.Thiswilldistributetheheatevenly,ensurethataminimumamountofsteamescapesandthatthewaterisabsorbedbythegrains.Ifyourliddoesnotsealthepan,useateatowelorfoiltocoverthepan,thenplacethelidontop.Thetowelwillabsorbthesteamandpreventitfromescaping,whereasthefoilwillactasatightseal.

Tostirornot?Whenyou’vecombinedthericeandwateroranyotherliquid,stironceverygentlythenresistthetemptationtostiragain.Ricegrainsaredelicateandsusceptibletobreakingifhandledtoomuch,andover-stirringwillmakethericestarchy.Also,onceyou’veputthelidon,don’tremoveit,eventocheckthericeoramountofwater.Thiscooksthericeunevenlyandtherecipemaynotwork.Onceyou’veremovedthepanfromtheheat,leavethecookedricecoveredfor5minutesorsotorestandfluffup.Removethelidandrunaforkthroughittoloosenthegrains.

Tosaltornot?VariousIndianrecipessuggestusingsaltornot,dependingonthecook.Idon’taddsalttoplainriceoranyricedishthatistobeeatenwithadalorcurrybecausethoseaccompanimentswillalwayshavesaltinthem.Ifaricedishcanbeeatenonitsown,forexampleabiryaniorlemonrice,Idoaddabitofsalt.

ElectricricecookerManyIndiansandcooksfromFarEasterncountriesusethissimplybecauseofthequantitiesofricetheycookonadailybasis.Followthemanufacturer’sinstructionsandputriceandtheexactamountofwaterintothecooker.Donotaddsalt.Switchitonandleaveittoturnitselfoff.Itwillturnitselfonfromtimetotimetokeepthericehot.

HOWTOSTORECOOKEDRICESAFELYBelowaretherecommendationsoftheNHSintheUK.Itispossibletogetfoodpoisoningfromimproperlystoredcookedricethathasbeenreheated.

UncookedricecontainssporesofBacilluscereus,bacteriathatcancausefoodpoisoning.Thesporessurviveevenaftercookingand,atroomtemperature,thesecangrowintobacteriaandproducetoxinsthatcausethesymptomsoffoodpoisoning.Thelongerthericeisleftatroomtemperature,thehigherthechancesofbacteriagrowing,makingthericeunsafetoeat.

Riceshouldideallybeeatenassoonasitiscooked.Leftoversshouldbecooledquicklybeforestoring;thiscanbedonebyspreadingthericeoutonatraytocoolthenchillingit.Youcanstorericeinthefridgeforadaythenreheatituntilitissteaminghot,eitherinamicrowaveorinasteamer.It’sbestnottoreheatricemorethanonce.

VARIETIESOFRICEAlthoughIndiahashundredsofvarietiesofrice,thesearesomeofthemostcommonthatarefoundaroundtheworld:

Basmati→Truetoitsname‘QueenofFragrance’,thisricehasanuttyaromaandasmooth,butteryflavour.Thegrainselongateandplumpupastheycookandtheendresultisadry,fluffy,separaterice.Basmatiricegrowsinsnow-fedpaddyfieldsatthefoothillsoftheHimalayas,ismoreexpensivethanotherIndianrice,andisavailableasbrownorwhite.

Patna→Thisisalong-grain,slenderricethatcomesfromtheGangeticplainsofBiharinnorthIndia.Itresemblesbasmatiricebuthaslessfragranceandisopaqueratherthantranslucent.Nevertheless,inareaswhereitisgrown,itisalsoreferredtoas‘Parimal’orperfumed.Itisusedtomakeeverydayboiledricethatiseatenwithcurries.

Matta→Thegrainsofthisriceareshort,coarseandpinkincolour.ItisgrowninKeralaandKarnatakaandisusedinsouthIndiaaswellasSriLanka.Ofthevarioustypesofmattarice,‘PalakkadanMatta’and‘Navara’arebothregional,organicallygrownvarietiesandareregisteredundertheGeographicalIndicationsofGoodsAct1999,whichmeansthattheyareassociatedwithaspecificlocationandorigin.Theunique,earthytasteofmattamakesitapopularaccompanimenttomeat.Itissoldparboiled,whichensuresthatthenutrientsarelockedintoeachgrain.

SonaMasuri→Thismedium-grain,white,aromaticriceislightweightandlowinstarch.ItgrowsmainlyinAndhraPradeshandKarnatakaandisusedinsouthernbiryanisandajaggery-sweetenedricedishcalled‘pongal’.

Sella→Thisriceisgoldenincolourasthepaddyisfirststeamed,thendriedandmilled.Thissealsinthenutrients.Long-grainricegrowninPunjabisoftenused

tomakethistypeofricewhichisusedinbiryanisandpulaos.

SurtiKloam→Amedium-grainvariety,itismostpopularintheGujaratregionofIndiawhereitisusedasaneverydayrice.Ithasamilderflavourandaromathanbasmatirice.

1Sella;2Patna;3SonaMasuri;4Matta;5Basmati.

MASTERCLASS

CHAVAL–PlainBoiledRice–absorptionmethodPlainriceisthemostpopularriceinIndiaasitactsastheperfectbackdroptoflavourfulcurriesanddals.

Serves4PREPARATION→5minutesCOOKING20minutes

YOUWILLNEED:200gbasmatirice

1Measurethericeinameasuringjug,thenwashinasieve,drainandputintoaheavy-basedsaucepanwithdoubletheamountofwatertorice(measuredinthesamejug).Bringtotheboilwithoutstirring.

2Reducetheheattolow,stironcegentlyandcoverthepan.Simmerfor10minutes,thenremovefromtheheatandleavethericetorestfor5minutes,covered.

3Removethelid,gentlyrunaforkthroughthericetoloosenit,andservehot.

MASTERCLASS

CHAVAL–PlainBoiledRice–drainingmethod

Thisisagoodwayofcookingricewhenyouhavemanydishesonthego.Onceyou’vedoneitafewtimes,you’llbeabletojudgehowlongittakestocookperfectriceinyourpan,onyourhobandwiththericeyounormallybuy.Youcanusethismethodwithbrownorwholegrainbasmatiricebutthecookingtimewillbelonger–allow30–45minutesofsimmeringtime.

Serves4PREPARATION→5minutesCOOKING25minutes

YOUWILLNEED:200gbasmatirice

1Measurethericeinameasuringjug,thenwashinasieve,drainandsetaside.Putsixtimesthevolumeofwater(measuredinthesamejug)toriceinalargesaucepanandbringtotheboil.Youcanalsouseboilingwaterfromthekettle.

2Addthericeandstironce,gently.Bringbacktotheboil,reducetheheattoasimmerandcookuntilthericeisdone.Thiscantake10–15minutes,dependingonyourpanandheatsource.Partiallycoveringyourpanwillcookthericefaster.Youcantestthericebysquashingagrainbetweenyourthumbandforefingerorsimplybytastingit!

3Drainthericethroughasieve,allowingallthewatertodrainaway.Servehot.

ThengaiSadam

[COCONUTRICE]

Thejuicinessoffreshcoconutisvitaltothisdishandthereforeitcannotbesubstitutedwithdesiccatedcoconut.Forinstructionsonhowtograteacoconut.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING30minutes

200gbasmatirice,washedanddrained2tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspoonblackmustardseeds2tablespoonscashewnuts1teaspoonchoppedfreshgreenchillies1teaspoonsplit,skinlessblacklentils(uraddal),

soakedinwaterfor15minutesanddrainedlargepinchofasafoetida7freshor10driedcurryleaves50gfreshcoconut,gratedsalt

1Putthericeanddoubletheamountofwaterbyvolumeinaheavy-basedsaucepanandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheattolow,stir,coverandcookfor10minutesuntilthewaterhasbeenabsorbedandthericeiscooked.Removefromtheheatandsettooneside,covered.2Heattheoilinalargefryingpanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseeds.Fryuntiltheystarttopop,thenaddthecashewnuts,chillies,lentils,asafoetidaandcurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter).Fryfor1minute,thenaddthegratedcoconutandstiruntilthemixturestartstoturngolden.Seasontotastewithsalt.3Removefromtheheatandfoldintothecookedrice.ServehotwithSambharorVellarikkaKootu.

ChettinadMuttonBiryani

[LAMBBIRYANIWITHSOUTHERNSPICES]

Afewyearsago,IdidafoodtriparoundthesouthernstateofTamilNaduandstoppedatasmallhighwaycaféservingonlybiryani.HereIhadoneofthetastiestricedishesIhaveeversampled.SoImademywaytothekitchenonlytobetoldthatthechef‘hadleftfortheday’!Leavingwithoutarecipebutarmedwithspicesfromalocalshop,ItriedoutseveralversionsinmyownkitchenandthisonecomesclosesttowhatIateinKaraikudiinChettinad.Mountainmoss(dagadphool)isapaperyspicethatsmellsofaniseed.Ifyoucan’tfindit,useaniseedorfennelseedsinstead.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING1½hours

400glambormuttonshoulderonthebone,cutintobite-sizedpieces2tablespoonsginger-garlicpaste

1largeonion,diced2staranise4cloveslargepinchofmountainmoss(dagadphool)or1teaspoonaniseedorfennelseeds4green

cardamompods,husksremovedandseedscrushed4blackcardamompods,husksremovedandseedscrushed2.5cmpieceofcinnamonstick

10freshor15driedcurryleaves2freshgreenchillies,diced4driedredchillies,halvedandseedsshakenout1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongarammasala200gbasmatirice,washedanddrainedahandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped,to

garnishsalt

1Putthelamb,ginger-garlicpasteandenoughsalttoseasoninapanwith400mlwater.Bringtotheboil,cover,reducetheheatandsimmerfor40minutesuntilthelambiscooked.2Puttheremainingingredients,exceptthecoriander,inaheavy-basedsaucepanandpourinthelambstockalongwiththecookedlamb.Seasontotaste.

3Bringtotheboil,reducetheheattothelowestsettingandcook,covered,for15minutesuntilallthestockhasbeenabsorbed.Removefromtheheatandfluffwithafork.Sprinklewiththecoriandertoserve.

PulaoRice

[RICEWITHCUMINANDFRIEDONIONS]

Pulaooftenfeaturesspiceandvegetables,meat,chickenorseafoodcombinedwithrice.Itisquiteasimplebutfragrantdish,whereafewwholespicessuchascardamomandclovesareusedratherthancomplexblendsasinabiryani.

Serves4PREPARATION→5minutesCOOKING25minutes

1tablespoonvegetableoil2onions,thinlysliced½teaspooncuminseeds200gbasmatirice,washedanddrainedsalt(optional)

1Heattheoilinaheavy-basedsaucepan,addtheonionsandfryfor8–10minutesuntilgoldenbrown.Addingasmallpinchofsaltwillhelptocooktheonionsfasterandpreventthemfromburning.Removefromthepanandsettooneside.Addthecuminseedstothesamepanwithandfryintheremainingoiluntiltheydarkenslightly.2Tipintherice,andletitfryfor1minuteorsountilitbecomesshiny.3Pourindoubletheamountofwatertoricebyvolume(measuredinthesamejug),stironceandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheattolow,coverandcookfor10minutes,untilthewaterhasbeenabsorbedandthericeiscooked.Removefromtheheat,leavethericetorestfor5minutes,covered,thenremovethelid,fluffthericewithaforkandservehot,toppedwiththefriedonions.

ElumichaiSadam

[LEMONRICE]

SouthIndiahasavastnumberofricerecipesandthisoneismyfavouritebecauseitisacompletemealinitself,butissosimpletoprepare.Fragrant,festiveandbeautifultolookat,itcanbeservedwithabowlofplainyogurtandsomehotpickle,withaspicycurry,orsimplyonitsown.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,plussoakingtimeCOOKING25minutes

200gbasmatirice,washedanddrained2tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspoonblackmustardseeds6freshcurryleaves

1teaspoonsplityellowgramlentils(chanadal),washedandsoakedinhotwaterfor15minutesanddrained10unsaltedcashewnuts

2tablespoonsunsaltedpeanuts1teaspoongroundturmeric3tablespoonslemonjuicesalt

1Putthericeanddoubletheamountofwaterbyvolumeinaheavy-basedsaucepanandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheattolow,stir,coverandcookfor10minutesuntilthewaterhasbeenabsorbedandthericeiscooked.Setaside.2Inaseparatepan,heattheoiloverahighheat,addthemustardseedsandfryuntiltheystarttopop.Addthecurryleaves(standingbackfromthepan,astheywillsplutter),lentils,cashewnutsandpeanuts,reducetheheatandfryforaminuteorso.3Whenthecashewsareslightlybrown,addtheturmeric.Immediatelyremovefromtheheatandaddthelemonjuice.Seasontotastewithsalt.4Gentlyfoldthecookedriceintothemixtureandservehot.

VangiBhaath

[SPICEDAUBERGINERICE]

ThisdishisfromMaharashtra,whereitisservedatweddingsandfeasts.Spiced,flavouredriceisconsideredfestiveasittakeslongertopreparethanplainrice,andiscolourfulandfragrant.YoucanmakeitasspicyasyouwishbutIpreferamediumheat,servedwithyogurt,hotmangopickleandcrisppoppadums.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING30minutes

2tablespoonsvegetableoil1mediumonion,thinlyslicedlargepinchofasafoetida8–10freshor15driedcurryleaves1mediumaubergine,cutinto2.5cmcubes10cashewnuts1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1tablespoongoda

masala200gbasmatirice,washedanddrained2teaspoonslemonjuicesaltyogurt,shop-boughthotmangopickleandpoppadums,toserve(optional)

1Heattheoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheat,addthebayleavesandfryforaminuteorsountiltheybegintodarken.Addthetomatopuréeorgratedtomatoes.Cookfor1–2minutesthentipintherice.Stironce,toblenditwiththetomatoes,thenpourindoubletheamountofwaterbyvolumetotherice,stirandbringtotheboil.2Reducetheheattolow,coverandcookforabout10minutesuntilthewaterhasbeenabsorbedandthericeiscooked.Removefromtheheat,leavethericetorestfor5minutes,covered,thenremovethelid,fluffthericewithaforkandservehot.

TamaterPulao

[TOMATOPULAO]

ThissimplenorthIndianricedishisprettyandtangy,andcanbeeatensimplywithsomeyogurtforalightmeal.

Serves4PREPARATION→5minutesCOOKING25minutes

1tablespoonvegetableoil3bayleaves1tablespoontomatopuréeor2gratedfreshtomatoes200gbasmatirice,washedand

drained

1Heattheoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheatandaddtheonion.Stirfor5–6minutesuntilitturnsgolden,thenaddtheasafoetidaandcurryleaves.Fryfor30seconds,thenaddtheaubergineandstir-fryuntilitstartstosoften,thenaddthecashewnutsandcookforaminuteuntilgolden.Addtheturmeric,chillipowder,godamasalaandseasontotastewithsalt.Stiracoupleoftimes,thenaddthericeandstirforacoupleofminutesuntilitbecomesopaque.2Pourindoubletheamountofwaterbyvolumetotherice.Stir,bringtotheboil,thenreducetheheattolow,coverandcookfor10minutesuntilthewaterhasbeenabsorbedandthericeiscooked.Removefromtheheatandsetaside,covered,for5minutes,beforeremovingthelid.Addthelemonjuice,fluffthericewithaforkandservehot.

KoftaPulao

[VEGETABLEPULAOWITHMEATBALLS]

Aneasyyetfestivedish,youcanstirthemeatballsintothericejustbeforeservingorsimplyplacethemontop.WhentheMughalemperorHumayunwasoustedfrompowerbySherShahSuriin1539,hewenttoPersiatoseekhelptoregainhisthrone.HereturnedgreatlyinfluencedbyPersiancultureandfood.Thepulao,aspicedricedish,wasoneofthedelicaciesintroducedtotheimperialkitchensatthistime.

Serves5PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING25minutes

2tablespoonsvegetableoil3cloves4greencardamompods,husksremovedandseedscrushed2blackcardamompods,husks

removedandseedscrushed2.5cmpieceofcinnamonstick2staranise1mediumonion,thinlysliced2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste2teaspoonstomatopurée100gmixeddicedvegetables,suchascarrots,peasandgreenbeans1teaspoonground

turmeric1teaspoongarammasala200gbasmatirice,washedanddrainedahandfulofchoppedfreshcorianderleavesForthe

meatballs150gleanlambmince1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste1freshgreenchilli,finelychoppedsalt

1Preheattheovento220ºC/gasmark7andlineabakingtraywithfoil.Mixalltheingredientsforthemeatballstogetherinalargebowl,thenformintocherry-sizedballs.Placethemeatballsonthelinedtrayandbakefor10minutes,thenremovefromtheovenandsetaside.2Meanwhile,heattheoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheat,addthecloves,bothcardamomseeds,cinnamonstickandstaraniseandfryuntiltheysizzle.Addtheonionandcookuntilsoft,thenstirintheginger-garlicpasteand

tomatopurée.3Addthevegetablesandthespicepowdersandstirforacoupleofminutes,thentipinthericeandfryforafurtherminuteuntilitturnsopaque.Addmostofthechoppedcorianderleaves,reservingsomeforthegarnish.4Pourindoubletheamountofwatertoricebyvolume,plus4extratablespoons,intothericeandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheat,stironce,coverandleavetocookfor10minutesuntilthewaterhasbeenabsorbedandthericeiscooked.Removefromtheheatandsetaside,covered,for5minutes.5Toserve,removethelid,gentlyfluffthericewithafork,foldinthemeatballsandsprinklewiththeremainingcoriander.

MASTERCLASS

MURGHDUMBIRYANI–NorthIndianChickenBiryani

ThewordbiryaniisderivedfromtheFarsiword‘birian’,whichmeans‘friedbeforecooking’.ItisthoughttohaveoriginatedinPersiaorArabiaandcouldhavecomeintonorthIndiaviaAfghanistan.AstheMughalsspreadtheirempire,thebiryanitravelledtovariouspartsofthecountry.TodaymanyMuslimcommunitiesinIndiahavetheirownversions,eachslightlydifferentfromtheother.TheHyderabadibiryani,wherelamb,spicesandricearecookedtogether,becamepopularduringtheruleofAsafJahI,whowasEmperorAurangzeb’sdeputytotheregion.IntheLucknowibiryani,thericeandmeatarecookedseparatelythenlayeredandfinishedbythedumpukhtmethod(seehere).WhentherulerofAwadh,WajidAliShah,wasexiledbytheBritish,hemovedtoCalcuttaandanewversionofthebiryaniwascreated,usingmorepotatoesandlessmeatforthepoorerresidentsofthecity.

Serves6–8PREPARATION→40minutesCOOKING1½hours

YOUWILLNEED:3tablespoonswholemilklargepinchofsaffron4tablespoonsrosewater3tablespoonsghee3largeonions,thinlysliced2tablespoonsginger-garlicpaste3freshgreenchillies,chopped2tablespoonstomatopurée600gskinlesschickenbreast,diced1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongarammasala300gbasmatirice,washedanddrainedahandfuloffreshmintleaves,choppeda

handfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped3tablespoonsflakedalmondssalt6–8hard-boiledeggs,toserveForthebouquetgarni10greencardamompods5blackcardamompods12blackpeppercornssmallcinnamonstick10cloves

afewshavingsofnutmeg1teaspoonfennelseeds3bayleaves

1Crushtheseedsof5ofthegreencardamompodsandalltheblackcardamompodsinapestleandmortaranddiscardthehusks.

2Putthebouquetgarnispices(exceptthe5wholegreencardamompods)inapanwith500mlhotwaterandbringtotheboil.Removefromtheheat,coverthepanandleavetosteep.Thisisthesavouryaromaliquid.

3Finelycrushthereservedcardamompodsinapestleandmortar(discardingthehusk)andmixwiththemilk,saffronandrosewater.Setaside.Thisisthesweetaromaliquid.

4Preheattheovento220ºC/gasmark7.

5Heat1tablespoonofthegheeinaheavy-basedfryingpan,addtheonionsandfryfor8–10minutesuntilbrownandcrisp.Removehalftheonionsandreserveforthegarnish.Addtheginger-garlicpasteandchilliesandstirfor2minutes,thenaddthetomatopuréeandcookforafurther2minutes.Transferthemixturetoablender,addenoughcoldwatertocoverandblitzuntilsmooth.

6Heatanothertablespoonofthegheeinthepanandfrythechickenfor5–6minutes.(Ifmakingavegetablebiryani,add300gmixed,cookedvegetables,suchascarrots,peasandpotatoes,tothepanhere.)7Addthepowderedspicesandseasonwithsalt.Cookfor2minutesuntilthespiceshaveturneddark,thenaddthepuréefromtheblenderandstir.Mixwell,add100mlwaterandsimmerforafewminutesuntilthechickeniscooked.Removefromheatandsetaside.

8Heattheremaininggheeinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheat.Addthericeandfryforafewminutes,untilshiny,thenstrainthree-quartersofthesavouryaromaliquidintothepan.Seasonwithsalt,stironce,bringto

theboil,thenreducetheheat,coverandcookforabout10minutesuntiltheliquidhasbeenabsorbed.

9It’stimetoassemblethedish.Thebottomandtoplayersarealwaysrice.Putalayerofriceatthebottomofa25–30cmdeepovenproofdish.Sprinkleoversomeoftheremainingsavouryliquidandsomesweetaromaliquid,thencoverthericewithalayerofthecurry.Sprinklesomeofthefriedonions,mintleavesandcorianderleavesoverthecurrythentopwithanotherlayerofrice.Repeatuntileverythingisusedupandthetoplayerisrice.Sprinklewiththealmondsandfreshcoriander.Sealthedishwithfoil.

10Putthebiryaniintheovenfor40minutes,reducingtheoventemperatureto190ºC/gasmark5after20minutes.Removefromtheoven,uncover,decoratewithhalvedhard-boiledeggsandserve.

MungDalKhichdi

[SOFTRICEANDLENTILSWITHSPICES]

Akhichdiisconsideredawarmingcomfortfoodor,ifmorevigorouslyspicedasinWestBengal,itisofferedasblessedfoodintemplesoratreligiousfeasts.TheBritishfishandeggkedgereeisaderivative,althoughanIndiankhichdiisalwaysvegetarian.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING35minutes

1tablespoonvegetableoilorghee5cloves10blackpeppercorns1bayleaf½teaspooncuminseeds4tablespoonssplitmungdal,washedanddrained½teaspoon

groundturmeric200gshort-/medium-grainrice,washedanddrainedsaltnaturalyogurt,toserve

1Heatthevegetableoilorgheeinalargeheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheat,addthecloves,peppercorns,bayleafandcuminseedsandfryforabout1minuteuntilthearomafillsthekitchen.Reducetheheattomedium,addthemungdalandfryforacoupleofminutesuntilthegrainslookshiny.2Addtheturmeric,riceand600mlboilingwater.Seasonwithsaltandbringbacktotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmerforabout30minutes,stirringandaddingmorehotwaterasnecessary,untilthericeiscreamyandverysoft.Thisdishwillbequitemoist,likearisotto,whichonlyincreasesitsdigestibility.Servewithnaturalyogurtontheside.

SubziyonKiTahiri

[SPICEDNORTHINDIANRICEANDVEGETABLEMEDLEY]

Atraditionaltahiriortahariissimilartoapulao,thoughitisvegetarianandslightlymorespiced.ItwascreatedinMughaltimesforHinducourtiersbysubstitutingthemeatinabiryaniwithpotatoes.Withtime,morevegetableswereadded,buteventoday,atahiriisincompletewithoutpotatoes.

Serves4PREPARATION→25minutesCOOKING45minutes

vegetableoil,fordeep-frying100gmixeddicedvegetables,suchaspotatoes,cauliflowerandaubergine1largeonion,thinlysliced

2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste2freshgreenchillies,minced½teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongarammasala200gbasmatirice,washedanddrainedahandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,choppedsalt

1Heatenoughoiltoaccommodateasinglelayerofvegetablesinadeepfryingpanoverahighheat.Deep-frythevegetables:first,thecauliflowerandpotatoes,for6–7minutes,thentransferthesetodrainonkitchenpaperandfrytheaubergineinthesameoilfor3–4minutesuntilgolden.Removewithaslottedspoonanddrainonkitchenpaper,seasonwithsaltandsetaside.2Carefullyscoop1tablespoonofthehotoilintoasaucepanoverahighheat,addtheonionandfryfor5–6minutesuntilbrowned.Addtheginger-garlicpaste,chillies,turmericandgarammasalaandfryfor1minutebeforeaddingtherice.Addtherice,fryfor1minuteuntilitturnsopaque,thenpourindoublethevolumeofwatertotherice.Bringtotheboil,thenreducetheheattolow,stironce,coverandcookfor10minutesuntilthewaterhasbeenabsorbedandthericeiscooked.Removefromtheheat,setasidefor5minutes,covered,thenremovethelidandflufftherice.

3Gentlyfoldinthefriedvegetables,sprinklewiththecorianderandservehot.

HyderabadiKucchiBiryani

[SLOW-COOKEDBIRYANI]

Inthisdish,marinatedrawmeat(goatisthemeatthat’spredominantlyusedalloverIndia)iscookedwiththericeinlayers.Thesealingofthepotmakesthedishmoistandfragrant.

Serves4PREPARATION→20minutes,plus3hoursmarinatingtimeCOOKING1hour

2tablespoonsvegetableoilorghee3largeonions,thinlysliced1tablespoonginger-garlicpaste

1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongroundturmeric2teaspoonsgarammasala5cmpieceofrawpapaya,crushedtoapaste150gnaturalyogurt400glambonthebone,cutintosmalldice200gbasmatirice,washedanddrainedsmall

cinnamonstick2greencardamompods,bruised3cloves1tablespoonghee,meltedahandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped2pinchesofsaffron,dissolvedin1tablespoon

warmmilk3tablespoonswholemealflour,mixedwithenoughwatertomakeastiffdoughsalt

1Heattheoilorgheeinaheavy-basedsaucepanorpotoverahighheat,addtheonionsandfryforabout8minutesuntiltheyarecrispandbrown.Drainandsetaside.2Tomakethemarinade,combinetheginger-garlicpaste,chillipowder,turmeric,garammasala,rawpapayapasteandyogurtinabowlandseasonwithalittlesalt.Addthelamb,mixtocoatitinthemarinadeandsetasidefor3hours.3Putthericeinapanwiththecinnamonstick,cardamompodsandclovesandadd800mlwater.Seasonwithsaltandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmer,uncovered,for5minutes(thericewilljustbepartiallycooked).Drain

inacolander.4Startassemblingthedish.Putthemarinatedmeatintheheavy-basedsaucepanalongwithallthemarinadeandhalfofthemeltedghee.Sprinkleoversomeofthechoppedcorianderandsomeofthefriedonions.Spreadthericeoverthis.Drizzleovertheremaininggheeandsaffronalongwiththemilk.5Rollthedoughintoacylinderandplaceitaroundtheedgeofthesaucepan.Placealidontoptosealittightlysothatnosteamescapes.Cookoverahighheatfor6–8minutesuntilyoucanhearasizzlefromthepan,thenreducetheheattolow(aslowasitwillgo)andcookfor45minutes.6Onceyouhaveremovedthepanfromtheheat,leavethebiryanitorest,thenremovethelid,discardthepastryandmixgentlywithaforktocombinetherice,meatandspices.Servehot,garnishedwiththeremainingfriedonionsandcoriander.

KolmiBhaat

[PRAWNPULAO]

Oneofmyfavouritedishes,thispulaogetscookedonaregularbasisinmyhome.It’sasimpleone-potmealandthesweetnessoftheprawnsisperfectlycomplementedbythechilliesandthetangoftomato.BuythebestprawnsyoucanaffordandyouwillhavethetasteofMumbai’sbeachesonyourplate.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING25minutes

2tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspooncuminseeds1largeonion,finelychopped1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste2freshgreenchillies,finelychopped2tablespoonstomatopurée150grawprawns,shelledanddeveined200gbasmatirice,washedanddrained1teaspoon

groundturmeric1teaspoongroundcorianderahandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,choppedsalt

1Warmtheoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheatandaddthecuminseeds.Whentheystarttodarken,addtheonionandcookfor5–6minutesuntilsoft.Addtheginger-garlicpasteandthechillies.Fryfor1minutethenaddthetomatopurée.Cookforafurtherminute,addtheprawnsandstiragain.2Tipintherice,groundturmericandcoriander.Stironce,seasonwithsaltandstirinhalfthecorianderleaves.Cookfor2minutes.3Pourindoubletheamountofwaterbyvolumetothericeandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheattolow,coverandcookfor10minutesuntilthewaterhasbeenabsorbedandthericeiscooked.Removefromtheheatandsetasidefor5minutes,covered,beforeremovingthelid.4Removethelidandfluffthericewithafork,beforeservingwiththeremaining

corianderleavessprinkledontop.

PudinaPulao

[MINTANDCUMIN-FLAVOUREDRICE]

Thisisaneasybutstunningentertainingcentrepiece,withalltheflavouroffreshmint.Youcanomitthegreenchilliesifyouwantamilddish,oryoucanserveitwithacreamyraita.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING25minutes

alargehandfuloffreshmintleaves1tablespoonginger-garlicpaste2freshgreenchillies1tablespoonvegetableoilorghee1teaspooncuminseeds200gbasmatirice,washedanddrainedsaltcreamyraita,toserve(optional)

1Putthemint,ginger-garlicpasteandchilliesinablenderwithalittlewaterandblitztoformasmoothpurée.Transferthepuréetothejugusedformeasuringthericeandtopitupwithenoughwatertomakedoublethevolumeofrice.2Warmtheoilorgheeinasaucepanoverahighheatandaddthecuminseeds.Fryforafewsecondsuntiltheystarttoturndark,thenaddtherice,seasonwithsaltandfryforaminuteuntilitturnsopaque.Addthepuréedmintmixture,stironce,bringtotheboil,thenreducetheheattolow,coverandcookfor10minutes,untilthewaterhasbeenabsorbedandthericeiscooked.Removefromtheheat,coverandsetasidefor5minutes.3Removethelid,fluffthericewithaforkandservehotwithacreamyraitaalongside,ifyoulike.

Mosaranna

[SOFTRICEWITHYOGURT,CUCUMBER,CARROTANDSPICES]

ThisdishisfoundalloversouthIndiawhereamealalwaysendswithaservingof‘curdrice’.InKarnatakaitiscalledMosaranna,whereasinnearbyTamilNaduitiscalledTayirSadam.

Serves4PREPARATION→5minutesCOOKING25minutes

200gshort-grainrice,washedanddrained100mlsemi-skimmedmilk100gnaturalyogurt1tablespoonvegetableoil1teaspoonblackmustardseeds1teaspooncuminseedspinchofasafoetida8freshor12driedcurryleaves¼cucumber,peeledandfinelydiced1smallcarrot,peeled

andgratedpinchofcastersugar½teaspoonfinelygratedfreshrootgingersaltshop-boughtspicymangopickleorAubergineChutney,toserve(optional)

1Putthericeanddoubletheamountofwaterbyvolumeinaheavy-basedsaucepanandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheattolow,stironce,coverandcookfor10minutesuntilthewaterhasbeenabsorbedandthericeiscooked.Removefromtheheat,coverandleavetorestfor5minutes.2Removethelidandgentlyfluffthericewithaforktoloosenit.Lightlymashthericewithapotatomasherandmixinthemilk.Transfertothefridgetocool.Whenthericeiscold,stirintheyogurt.3Warmtheoilinasmallpanoverahighheatandfrythemustardseedsforafewminutesuntiltheybegintopop.Addthecuminseeds,asafoetidaandcurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter),fryforafewseconds,thenstirthemixtureintotherice.4Stirthecucumber,carrot,sugarandgingerintothericeandseasontotastewithsalt.ServecoldwithspicymangopickleorAubergineChutney,ifyoulike.

MushroomPulao

[RICEWITHMUSHROOMSANDCUMIN]

WeneverhadmushroomsinmychildhoodhomeasmygrandmothersaidtheywereAyurvedically‘tamasic’or‘lackinginpositiveenergy’,becausetheygrewindark,dankplaces.Ilovethemnowandhaveusedchestnutmushroomsinthisrecipe.Theyhaveanuttierflavourandshrinkless,astheycontainlesswaterthanwhitemushrooms,butyoucanusewhicheverkindyouhavetohand.

Serves4PREPARATION→5minutesCOOKING25minutes

2tablespoonsvegetableoil2tablespoonsunsaltedcashewnuts½teaspooncuminseeds6–7chestnutmushrooms,cleanedandthicklysliced½teaspoongroundturmeric200gbasmatirice,washedanddrainedsalt

1Heattheoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheat,addthecashewnutsandfryforacoupleofminutesuntilgolden.Removethenutsfromtheoilandsetaside.2Addthecuminseedstotheoilandfryuntiltheybegintodarken,thenaddthemushroomsandturmeric.Tipinthericeandseasonwithsalt.Stirgentlyfor1minuteuntilthericeturnsopaque.3Pourindoublethevolumeofwatertorice,stironceandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheattolow,coverandcookforabout10minutesuntilthewaterhasbeenabsorbedandthericeiscooked.Removefromtheheat,leavethericetorestfor5minutes,covered,thenremovethelid,fluffthericewithaforkandservesprinkledwiththefriedcashewnuts.

KovilPulihodarai

[TAMARINDRICE]

ThereareseveralversionsofthisdishinsouthIndiabutthisisthemostpopularandclosesttothatservedas‘prasadam’orblessedfoodintemples.

Serves4PREPARATION→30minutes,plus20minutessoakingtimeCOOKING30minutes

200gbasmatirice,washedanddrained2tablespoonsvegetableoil½teaspoonblackmustardseedslargepinchofasafoetida4driedredchillies,deseededandcrumbled1teaspoongramlentils(chanadal),soakedin

waterfor20minutesanddrained2teaspoonscashewnuts10freshor15driedcurryleaves1teaspoongroundturmericlime-sizedblockoftamarind,dilutedin6tablespoonsofwater,squashed,thenpassed

throughasievetoextractthepulp(discardtheseeds)or5tablespoonstamarindpulporshop-boughttamarindpaste(notconcentrate)salt

Forthespiceblend½teaspoonfenugreekseeds8blackpeppercorns1teaspooncorianderseeds3driedredchillies,splitandseedsshakenout1teaspoonwhitesesameseeds,toasted

1Tomakethespicepowder,dry-toastthefenugreekseeds,peppercorns,corianderseedsandredchilliesinasmallfryingpanuntiltheychangecolour.Tipintoaspicemillorpestleandmortar,addthesesameseedsandgrindtoapowder.2Putthericeanddoubletheamountofwaterbyvolumeinaheavy-basedsaucepanandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheat,stironce,coverandcookfor10minutesuntilthewaterhasbeenabsorbed.Removefromtheheatandsetaside,covered.3Heattheoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheat,addthemustardseeds,asafoetida,crumbledchillies,drainedlentils,cashewnutsandcurryleavesandfryforacoupleofminutes.Whenthecashewnutshaveturnedgolden,stirintheturmericandthespicepowderfromStep1.Seasonwithsalt,addthe

tamarindpulpandcookforafewminutesuntilitthickensslightly.4Foldthericeintothespicepasteandservehot.

Parsi-styleBrownRice

[RICEWITHFRIEDONIONSANDCARAMEL]

TheParsiscametoIndiafromIranaroundtheeighthcenturyastheyfledfromreligiouspersecution.TheyarrivedonthewestcoastofIndia,makingtheirhomeinGujaratandSind.TheircuisineisafabulousmixofIndian,PersianandEuropeanstyles.ThisisasignaturedishandiseatenwithDhansak,thefamousspicedlentilandvegetablecurryandafreshonionsalad.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING35minutes

200gbasmatirice,washedanddrained1teaspooncastersugar2tablespoonsvegetableoil2smallcinnamonsticks3cloves1largeonion,thinlyslicedsalt

1Measuredoublethevolumeofwatertoriceinajug.2Putthesugarandateaspoonofwaterinalargesaucepanandsetoverahighheatuntilthesugardissolves.Reducetheheattomediumandcontinuecookinguntilthesugarcaramelisestoarichgoldencolour.Removefromtheheat,standbackandslowlypourinthewaterfromthejug.Itwillbubblefuriouslysobecareful.Mixwellsothatyougetawarmbrownliquid.Setaside.3Heattheoilinasaucepanoverahighheatandaddthecinnamonsticksandcloves.Astheoilheatsup,theywillbegintosizzleanddevelopanaroma.Addtheonionandcookoverahighheatfor5–6minutes,stirring,untilitstartstoturngolden.Reducetheheattomediumandcontinuecookingfor7–8minutesuntilitdevelopsadeepbrowncolour.

4Tipinthericeandfryforacoupleofminutesuntilitturnsopaque,thenpourinthecaramelliquidandseasonwithsalt.5Bringtotheboil,stironce,thenreducetheheattolow,coverandcookfor10minutesuntilthewaterhasbeenabsorbedandthericeiscooked.Removefromtheheat,leavethericetorestfor5minutes,covered,thenremovethelid,fluffthericewithaforkandservehot.

PeshwariNaansGarlicNaansRavaUttapamPalakPooriKheemeKeParathaBajreKiBhakriMakkiKiRotiPesarattuBesanKiRotiThalipeethBhaturaNeerDosaAppamsPaalaadaAdaiPakwan

INDIANSUSEAVASTNUMBEROFFLOURSTOMAKEBREADSSUCHASROTISANDPARATHAS,FORBULKINGANDTHICKENINGCURRIESASINTHESPICEDYOGURT

‘KADHI’,ANDFORBINDINGFOODSSUCHASONIONBHAJIASANDPAKORAS.

Wheatisthemostcommongraintobecrushedintoflour.ArchaeologicalsurveyshavefoundthatitwasusedintheIndiansubcontinentsincetheIndusValleycivilisation(3300BC–1700BC).AncientIndianscriptsincludingtheRigveda(oneoftheoldestsurvivingtextsknowntoman)mentiontheuseofwheatflourinvariousforms,includingbeingmixedwithmilk,friedingheeandspicedwithcardamom,pepperandginger.Barleyandriceflourswerealsoused.

Regionaldifferencesplayanimportantrole:thecuisineinsomepartsofthecountry,suchasthesouthandthenortheast,isrice-based,whereasinPunjabitiswheat-based.Thisisnottosaythatthesouthdoesnoteatrotis,butmostmealsarebasedaroundaricepreparation.

Indianslovebreadsthatareleavened,suchasnaan,unleavenedsuchasroti,orWestern-styleslicedbread.EuropeanbreadswereintroducedintoIndiaaboutthreecenturiesago,mainlybythePortuguese.Their‘pao’,asmallbun,isstilleatenwithcurriesoracrushedvegetablestreetsnackcalled‘pao-bhaji’.EarlyZoroastrians(whocamefromIran)setupbakeriesusingtheIraniantechniqueofusing‘khamir’orthefermentedyeastthatwentintomakingasourdoughbread.Iranicafés,whichtheZoroastriansstartedandwhicharesadlyindeclinenow,sellahard,crustyversioncalled‘brun’thatisbutteredandeatendippedinsweettea.TheseEuropean-stylebreadsarenotmadeathomebecausemostIndiankitchensdonotneedandthereforedonothaveWestern-styleovens.Bakeriesinmostcitiesprovidethem,andslicedbreadismadeinlargefactoriesonacommercialscaleandsoldinshopsalloverthecountry.

MillingofgrainhasbeencarriedoutintheIndiansubcontinentforthousandsofyears.TheearliestmillsfoundintheIndusValleyCivilisation(3300–1700BC)excavationswereoftwotypes–oneflatandcircular,theother,alargestonewithacentralshallowdepressionthatcouldholdgraintobecrushedwitharoundedstoneheldinonehand.VersionsofthesemillsarestillseeninIndianhomestoday.Anothertypeofcrusherthatwascommonwasthegiantmortar,whichwasusedstandingupwiththelong,heavypoundingpestleheldinboth

whichwasusedstandingupwiththelong,heavypoundingpestleheldinbothhands.ThisinstrumentisdescribedinearlyTamilliteratureofthethirdcenturyAD.InsouthernIndia,too,excavationsofsitesdatingfromthesecondcenturyBCEhaveuncoveredpestlesandmortarsaswellasmillingstones.

Homemilling:Indaysgoneby,everykitcheninwheat-growingareashada‘chakki’tomillthewheat.Thiswasmadeoftwoheavyroundstoneplates7.5–10cmthick.Thelowerplatewasfixedwhilethetopplatecouldberotated.Bothwereheldtogetherbyaspindleandontopwasareceptacleholetofeedthewheatin.Asthetopplatewasrotated,thewheatwascrushedbetweentheplatesandmovedtotheouteredgesandcouldthenbecollected.

Chakkimilling:Asachild,Iwasfascinatedhoweveryhouseholdwouldbuywheatfromthegrocer,cleanitofminorimpuritiesathomeandtakeittothenearest‘chakki’ormilltohaveitcrushedintoflour.Wewouldhelpwiththissiftingandcleaningasitmadeusfeelverygrownup!Thesechakkisalsohadmillsforspices.Todaycitykitchensbuybagsofready-madeflour,butinsmallertownsandvillages,takingwheattothechakkiisstillaregulardomestictask.

Commercialmilling:Fromthelate1800smillspoweredbyoilandthenbyelectricityspreadthroughIndiaandwereusedtode-huskpaddy.

WheatFlours

Atta→AlthoughwheathasbeengrowninIndiaforhundredsofyears,todaytwomajorvarietiesareusedtomakewholewheatflouror‘atta’.Thesearethehard‘durum’andthesemi-hardvarietycalled‘aestivum’.Hardwheathasahighglutencontent,whichgivesdoughitselasticityandthereforemakesiteasiertorolloutthinlyintochapattis.Tomakeatta,theouterhuskofthegrainisremoved,leavingbehindthreelayers–thebran,theendospermandthegerm.Branisessentiallyfibre,theendospermisstarchandthegermisprotein.Thesearecoarselygroundtomakeatta,whichisprimarilyusedtomakerotisorchapattisandsimilarflatbreads.Bagsofattaareoftenlabelledonthebasisoftheiruse,aschapattiflour.Therearemanyvarietiesofatta,suchasbrownormedium,andtheseusuallyindicatetheamountofbranorthecoarsenessoftheflour.Manybagsmentiontheword‘chakki’,meaningstone-milled.

Maida→Thebranisremovedandthestarchyendospermofthegrainismilledandbleachedtomakethisrefinedflourthatisfinerandpalerthanatta.Asitisquitefine,itismostlyusedforrecipesthatrequireasofttexture.Certainbreadslikeroomaliroti,literally‘handkerchiefbread’ornaanaremadeofmaida,asisthecrispshortenedpastryforsavourysamosas.

Dalia(BulgarWheat)→Thisiscrackedwheatanditresemblesgrits.Itisalsoknownaslapsi,bulghurwheatorfada.Fineandcoarseversionsarecookedintoasweetporridgecalled‘kheer’orusedtomakehotsnacks.

Rava/Sooji(Semolina)→Whenwheatismilledtoresemblesand,itiscalledrava,soojiorsemolina.Thereareseveralvarietiesavailableandtheyallresultindifferenttexturesinthefinaldish.ExtracoarseandcoarseravaisgrittyanddelightfullynuttyandisusedforpuddingsorasavourysouthIndiandishcalled‘upma’.Fineravaisalsousedforpuddings,tocreateacrustonfriedfishandseafood,oraddedtoshortenedpastryforextracrispness.TheyallfeatureinoneofIndia’sbest-loveddesserts,variouslycalled‘sheera’,‘soojikahalwa’or‘ravakesari’.

RiceFlour

Thisismadefrompolished,brokenriceandisusedineverydaycookingmostlyinthesouthandinGujarat.Itismixedwithwaterorcoconutmilktomakeagluten-freebatterforpancakescalleddosas,madeintoadoughorusedtothickenmilkydesserts.

Bajra(Millet)Flour

Bajra,bajriormilletflourismadefromasmallroundgrainthatresemblesmustardseed.Itisearthyandnuttyinflavourwithaslightlysweetaftertaste.Indiansconsiderithealthyasitcontainsmanyvitalnutrients,suchasiron,aswellasfibre.Densebajrarotiscalled‘bhakris’areeatenbyfarmersinMaharashtra,oftenwithawedgeofonionandgarlicandchillichutney.Althoughseenaspoorman’sfood,theyareconsideredadelicacywheneatenwithadollopofhomemadebutter.

Bajraflourtendstorequireabindingagentwhilebeingmadeintoadough,sosometimesalittlericeflourisadded.Itisoftenpattedintoshapebymoistenedhandsratherlikemouldingclay.Ifthedoughisdry,itwillcrackanditisforthisreasonthatitisnotrolledlikewheatflourrotis.

Makai(Maize)Flour

ThisiscalledmakaiormakkiflourinIndia.Driedcornissoakedinlimesolutionorslaked,thenhulled.ThedampcornisthenmilledintoaslightlycoarseflourwhichisusedtomakebreadssuchasPunjab’sfamous‘makkikiroti’,aflat,unleavenedcornbread,orisusedasathickenerincurriesandvegetabledisheslike‘sarsonkasaag’,aPunjabidelicacyofseasonalmustardgreenscookedwithspicesandeatenwithhomemadeghee.TheveryfinecornflourusedinothercountrieshaslimiteduseintraditionalIndiancookery,althoughitisanessentialingredientinthespicyhybridIndo-Chinesefoodthatcombineselementsofbothcuisines.

LentilFlours

LentilsarefoundineveryIndiankitchen.Asflours,theyareusedtothicken,bind,coatandaddcrispnesstodishes.

Besan(Gram)Flour→Gramflourismadebymillingdriedchickpeas.Itisnutty,proteinrichandglutenfree.Gluten-freepancakesaremadefromathickbatterofbesanandwater.

Besanisusedtomakesweetslike‘laddoos’,whereitisroastedinghee,sweetenedwithsugarandpressedintoballsthatwillkeepfordays.SindhiKadhi,asavouryvegetablecurry,hasabaseofbesanandtomatoes.Pakorasaremadebydippingvegetables,paneer,fishorchickenintoaseasonedbesanbatterbeforedeep-fryingthem.

MungFlour→Thisismadefrommungbeansandisalsocalledgreenbeanflour.Itislighterthanotherpulsefloursandisusedtomakedosasandforpoppadumsorpapads.Adoughismadewithmungflourandwater,spicedandseasoned,thenrolledoutintothindiscs.InanIndianhome,thesediscsaresun-driedforlateruse.MosturbanIndianstodayhaveneitherthetimenortheresourcesintheformofasunnyrooforcourtyardtodrytheirownpoppadumsandreadilybuycommerciallymadeonesinstead,inanassortmentofflavours.

UradFlour→Uradoruridbeansareblackincolourbutoncepeeled,theyrevealacreamywhiteinterior.Thesecream-colouredbeansaremilledtoformtheflourwhichisusedtomakevariouskindsofdosas.

Itissometimessoldas‘maptebeanflour’or‘papadflour’asitislargelyusedtomakepoppadums,or‘papads’astheyarecalledovermostofIndia.Beingglutenfree,dosasmadewithuradflourcanbeagoodsubstituteforwheatrotis.

FlourMixes→Indiangrocersoftenofferavarietyofmixedflours.Thesearesoldblendedforeaseofuseandtosavethecooksometime.Examplesare‘idliflour’tomakesteamedsouthIndianricecakescalledidlis,‘dhoklaflour’tomakesavouryriceandlentilcakes,or‘dosaflour’whichhasthesameingredientsas‘idliflour’butindifferentproportions.

HOWTOSTOREFLOURSItisbesttostoreallfloursinadry,well-ventilatedcupboardfornomorethan6monthsorso.Moisturecanmakeitclumpyandkeepingittoolongmaygiverisetoinsects,suchasweevils,whichliveindryfood.

Typesofflour–1Atta;2Bajra;3Besan;4Rice;5Dalia.

Typesofflour–6Rava/Sooji;7Urad;8Maize;9Mung;10Maida.

ROTISANDCHAPATTIS

RotisareIndia’severydaybread.ThewordcomesfromtheSanskrit‘rotika’andtheword‘chapatti’possiblycomesfromHindiword‘chappat’meaningflat.Bothrotiandchapattiareusedinterchangeably,withonebeinginmorepopularinsomepartsofthecountrythantheother.

Arotiisaflat,unleavenedbreadmadeofstonegroundwholemealwheatflourcalledatta.Theword‘chapatti’hasbeenmentionedintheAin-i-Akbari,asixteenth-centurytreatisewrittenbyAbu’l-FazlibnMubarakontheworkingsoftheMughalemperorAkbar’scourt:‘Thethinkindisbakedonanironplate.Onesérwillgivefifteen,orevenmore.Therearevariouswaysofmakingit:onekindiscalledchapatti,whichissometimesmadeofkhushkah;ittastesverywell,whenservedhot.Forthebreadusedatcourt,onemanofwheatismadetoyield½m.offineflour;2s.coarselypoundedflour;andtherestbran;ifthisdegreeoffinenessbenotrequired,theproportionsarealtered.’

Rotisdifferinsizeandthicknessfromoneregiontoanother,andtheyalsohavevariousnames,dependingontheirthicknessorthemethodofcooking.Theyareusedtomopupcurrysaucesortotransferfoodfromtheplatetothemouth.Typically,PunjabirotisaredenserandthickerthanGujarati‘rotlees’orMaharashtrian‘polis’,whicharethinanddelicate.Mostrotisarecookedonaflatorslightlyconvexgriddlepancalledthe‘tava’or‘tawa’.

From1833to1920,asmillionsofIndiansweretakentodifferentEuropeancoloniesasindenturedlabourerstoworkonsugarplantationsortobuildrailways,therotitravelledtonewshoresandbecamepopularinvariousforms–as‘rooti’inSouthAfrica,‘roticanai’inMalaysia,‘sadaroti’madewithplainflourinTrinidad,and‘dhalpoori’madewithlentilsinMauritius.Todaymanyformsexist,aswrapsorfilledwithpotatoesormeattrimmings(asintheamusingandcheap‘piperroti’servedinTrinidadandTobagowhereapiperisadrugaddictwithlittlemoneytobuyfood).

Rotiscookedinacoal-firedclayovenarecalled‘tandooriroti’.TheseareusuallyeateninPunjabwhereonefindstheseovensandnotalloverIndiaasmanypeoplethink.Thetandoorirotiismadewithwholewheatattaandismuch

thickerandchewierthanagriddle-bakedroti.‘Phulkas’arerotiscookeddirectlyonanopenflameoroncoalsafterbeing

lightlysealedonatava.The‘roomaliroti’isanextremelythin,softrotimadeofamixtureofattaand

maidathatisservedfoldedandisapartofNorthIndianMughlaicookery.Theword‘roomali’referstohandkerchief(roomal)andtherotiismadebytossingthedoughhighupintheairtostretchit.SpecialistchefsatMughlairestaurantsmakequiteashowoftheirskillasitisanarttomakethisrestaurantbread.ItiscookedontheconvexsideofanIndiangriddlepanortava.

POORISThisfestivebreadismadewithasimilardoughtorotisbutusesabitmoreoiltobringitalltogether.Thenoilisusedtorollthemout,muchsmallerthanrotis,afterwhichtheyaredeep-frieduntilpuffedandgolden.Poorisareconsideredindulgentandarethereforeoftenservedatweddingsandcelebrations.Theyaresometimesflavouredorstuffed,asin‘dalpoori’,madewithlentils.Small,bite-sized,crispversionsarefriedandfilledwithsweetandsourtamarindwatertomakeoneofIndia’sfavouritestreetfoods,variouslycalled‘pani-puri’,‘golguppe’,‘batasha’or‘phuchka’.

PARATHASPopularinPunjabandnearbyregions,parathasaremadewithrotidoughbutarecookedingheeoroilandarelayeredbreads.Theycanbestuffedwithpotatoesasin‘alookeparonthe’orwithcauliflower,mooli(daikonradish),meatorpaneer.Theyareheavyandareofteneatenforbreakfastinthenorth.Thesouthalsohasitsversions.The‘malabarparotta’ofKeralaisalayered,fluffybreadthatiseatenwithlusciouscoconutcurries.

MASTERCLASS

MAKINGADOUGH

InspiteofrotibeingIndia’sfavouritebread,madedailyinmanyhomes,itisquitetrickytogetthedoughrightandrolloutcircleswhenyoufirststart.WhenImademyfirstrotiattheageofaroundtwelve,itlookedlikeacrossbetweenAustraliaandSriLankaandItrulybelievedthatIwouldnevergetitright.Thismademegiveuproti-makinguntilIwenttocateringcollegeafewyearslater!

1Usegood-qualityatta.Askaroundforagoodbrand–thiswillbeslightlymoreexpensiveastheyhaveprobablyusedgood-qualitywheatwithenoughgluten.

2Indiancooksuseonehandtokneadthedoughinthebowlwhiletheotherisusedtopourinwaterandholdthebowlfirmly.Europeancooksusebothhandstoknead.

3Usetepidwater.Itisdifficulttocalculateexactlyhowmuchwaterwillbeneededforaparticulardough–factorssuchasthequalityoftheflour,thehardnessorsoftnessofthewater(themineralsaltsinmildlyhardwaterreinforcethegluten)andtemperatureinthekitchencanallmakeadifferencetotheamountneeded.Asaroughguide,for200gflouryouneed100–125mlwater.

4Startbypouringinenoughwatertocreateabreadcrumbtexture.

5Bringthedoughtogetherfirmlybutnotusingtoomuchpressure.Ifyouneedtoforceit,itisstilltoodry.Keepaddingwater,alittleatatime,untilthedoughformsaballwhenpressedtogether.Itshouldfeelslightlystickyatthispoint.

6Thisstepisthesecrettomakingsoftrotis.Kneadthedoughonalightlyflouredsurfacefor5–8minutes.Themoreyouknead,thebetterthe

dough.Makesuretousepressure,usingyourknucklesandthebaseofyourpalmtostretchthedough.Caressingitwon’twork!Youaretryingtostretchtheglutenstrandstocreatethecorrecttexture,sobefirm.Thefinaldoughshouldbespringyandnotstickysokeepkneadinguntilthedoughisasslackasitcanbeinordertorollitout.

7Ifyouhaveaddedtoomuchwaterandthedoughisstickingtoyourfingers,addmoreflourtocorrectthis.Awetdoughisdifficulttorollandyouwillendupusingtoomuchdustingflourthatwillburnasaresidueinahotpan.

8Ifyouhaveaddedtoolittlewaterandthedoughfeelshard,moistenyourhandsandkeepworkingthedough,sprinklingoverabitofwatertostretchit.

9Somepeopleaddafewdropsofoil(vegetableorsimilar)tothedoughwhenit’sbeingkneaded.Thiscanhelptosoftenit.

10Restthedoughinthebowlfor10minutes–abitlongerifyoucan.Coveritwithaclean,dampteatowelorlooselywithclingfilm.(Wrappingittightlyinclingfilmmaymakeitsweatandbecomesticky.)

11Oncemade,youcanbrushtherotiswithalittleoilorghee.Ifmakingtheminadvance,wraptheminateatoweltoabsorbthesteamandstopthemfrombecomingsoggy.Reheatwhenyou’reready.

12Leftoverdoughcanbestoredinanairtightcontainerinthefridgeforupto2days.

ROLLINGROTIS

1Usethecorrectrollingpin.Indianpinsaretaperedsothattheydon’texerttoomuchpressureandallowyoutorolltherotifromthecentreouttocreateaneatcircle.Thethicknessshouldbeevensodon’tbetemptedtogoovertheedgesinordertomakeaperfectcircle.

2AnIndiankitchenwillhaveacircularrollingboardasatemplatefortheshape.

3Useatava,griddlepanorafryingpanbutmakesurethatitisnon-stickor

havebeenseasonedbyprevioususe.Thepanmustbeveryhotsothattherotisealsassoonasitisplacedonit.

4Quickcookingatahightemperatureallowsthewaterinthedoughtoturntosteamandpufftheroti,makingitsoft.Overcookingwillresultinacrisporleatheryroti!

MASTERCLASS

ROTIS/CHAPATTIS–UnleavenedFlatbreads

Itendnottosaltmyrotisastheyarealwaysgoingtobeeatenwithsomethingsavouryorsweet.Indianchildrenaresometimesgivenarotiwithjamorafragrantmixofgheeandgranulatedsugarasaquicksnack.Theyareoftencookedfreshasthefamilyiseating,andinthisinstancetheydonotneedtobebrushedwithoil.Butyoucanbrushthemwithoilifyouaremakingabatchinadvance,tokeepthemsoft.

Makes10rotisPREPARATION→15minutes,plusrestingtimeCOOKING20minutes

YOUWILLNEED:300gstonegroundwholewheatflour(atta),plusextrafordusting150–175mltepid

water,asneededvegetableoil,forbrushing(optional)

1Placetheflourinabowland,usingyourfingers,graduallymixinthetepidwateruntilyouhaveapliabledough.Kneadonalightlyflouredsurfacefor5–8minutes(themoreyoukneadthedough,thesoftertherotis),thenleavethedoughtorestfor10minutesinthebowlunderaclean,dampteatowel.

2Dividethedoughinto10equal-sizedportionseachthesizeofasmalllime.Coatlightlywithflour,shapeintoaballinyourpalmandflattenslightly.

3Rolleachballoutintoaflatdisc,12cmindiameter,dustingthesurfacewithflourasnecessary.

4Heatagriddlepanorshallowfryingpanoverahighheat.Frythediscsoneatatimeonthegriddleuntilthesurfaceappearsbubbly.Flipoverand

presstheedgesdownwithacleanclothorspatulatocookevenly.Assoonastherotiisopaqueandfleckedwithbrownspots,itisdone.Makesurethattherotiiscookedevenlyallover.

5Removeandbrushwithoil,ifusing.Cookalltherotisinthesameway.

MASTERCLASS

NAANS–Oven-bakedLeavenedBreads

Naan,eveninIndia,isarestaurantbread.Firstly,asitismadewithrefinedflourratherthanwholewheat,peopledonotthinkofitasbeingtoohealthy.Secondly,atraditionalnaanismadeinatandooroven,whichisimpracticalinahomeenvironment,andthirdly,beingaleavenedbread,itismoretimeconsumingtomakethanaroti,whichallmeansthatpeopledon’tmakeitathome.Thisrecipehasbeenadaptedtobecookedintheoven,andisagoodrecipetomakeathomeintheWestwherekitchensarefittedwithconventionalovens,unlikeinIndia.

Makes12mininaansPREPARATION→20minutes,plus1½hoursrisingtimeCOOKING20minutes

YOUWILLNEED:100mltepidwater1teaspoonactivedryyeast1teaspooncastersugar380gself-raisingflour,plusextrafordusting20mlvegetableoilorghee30gnatural

yogurtsalttoastedsesameornigellaseeds,tofinish

1Whiskthetepidwater,yeastandsugarinabowlorjuguntiltheyeasthasdissolved.Leaveittostandfor10minutestoactivatetheyeast.

2Sifttheflourandapinchofsaltintoabowlandaddtheyeast,halftheoilorgheeandalltheyogurt.Mixtoformasoftdoughthentransfertoaflouredsurfaceandkneadfor5minutesuntilthedoughissmoothandnolongersticky,addingmoretepidwaterifnecessary.

3Placethedoughinagreasedbowl,coverwithaclean,dampteatowelorlooselywithclingfilmandsetasideinawarmplacefor1½hoursuntilthedoughhasdoubledinsize.

4Punchthedoughdownandkneaditwell.Divideitinto12ballsandrolltheballsintosmallrounds,trianglesoroblongshapes.

5Greaseabakingtrayandputthenaansonit,thenplaceunderahotgrillforabout2minutesoneachsideuntilpuffyandcooked.Youcanalsobaketheminanovenpreheatedto200°C/gasmark6,cookingthemfor4–5minutesoneachside.

6Brushthenaanswiththeremainingoilorgheeandsprinklewithtoastedsesameornigellaseedstoserve.

PeshwariNaans

[SWEETNAANVARIATION]

Indianrestaurantstheworldoverservethissweetnaanfromthenorth-westfrontierregionofPakistan.ThetruenameofthisbreadisPeshawarinaan,inreferencetothecityPeshawarfromwhereitoriginates.Tomakethisversionyouwillneedalltheingredientsforplainnaan,plusthefollowingforthefilling.

Makes12mininaansPREPARATION→35minutesCOOKING20minutes

100gfinelycrushedpistachios30gchoppedraisins30gfinedesiccatedcoconut1teaspoongroundfennelseed1quantitynaandough

1Combinetheingredientsforthefilling.Makethenaandoughas.2Afterrollingoutanaan,placeasmallspoonfulofthesweetnutmixtureatthecentreandcarefullyfoldintheedgestosealinthefilling.Flattenslightlyandgentlyrollbackoutintoasmalloblong,circleortriangle.Repeatwiththeremainingnaans.Cookasonhere.Wrapthecookednaaninfoiltokeepthemwarmwhilecookingtherest.

GarlicNaans

[VARIATION]

Anotherrestaurantfavourite,thegarlickyflavourofthisbreadgoeswellwithspicynorthIndiancurries.Sometimesfreshlychoppedcorianderisalsoaddedalongwiththedicedgarlic.

Makes12mininaansPREPARATION→25minutesCOOKING20minutes

1quantitynaandough3–4garliccloves

1Makethenaandoughas.2Finelychop3–4garlicclovesandsprinkleabitoneachnaanbeforegrillingthem.Whentheyaredone,brushthemwithoilorgheeandservehot.

RavaUttapam

[SEMOLINAPANCAKES]

Uttapamsanddosasareclassicfoodsinthesouth.Iapplytheterm‘pancake’quitelooselyherebecausethewordconjuresupimagesofamixtureofeggs,wheatandmilk,whichthesefoodsarenot.However,theyaremadewithabatter,ladledintoahotpan,spreadintoacircleandsometimesflippedovertobecookedonbothsides.TheyareoftenservedwithWhiteCoconutChutneyandSambhar.

Makes8PREPARATION→10minutes,plusstandingtimeCOOKING25minutes

½mediumonion,finelychopped150gcoarsesemolinapinchofgroundturmericahandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,finelychopped1freshgreenchilli,finelydiced(seedsandall)vegetableoil,forshallow-fryingsalt

1Combinetheonion,semolina,turmeric,salttoseason,corianderandchilliinabowl.Stirinenoughcoldwater(150–180ml)tomakeabatterwithapouringconsistency,almostlikethickcustard.Leavetostandfor10minutes.2Heat1teaspoonofoilinalargesaucepan.Pouraladlefulofthebatterintothecentreandspreaditoutwiththebackofaspoonintoaflattishdiscabout10cmindiameter.Coverthepanandcookthepancakeinitssteamfor2–3minutes.3Flipthepancakeoverwhentheundersidehasturnedgoldenandisfleckedwithbrown.Cooktheothersidefor1–2minutes,uncovered,dottingtheedgeswithoil.Removefromthepanandwrapinfoiltokeepwarmwhileyoucooktheremainingbatter.

MASTERCLASS

POORIS–PuffyFriedBreads

TheSanskritword‘pura’,whichmeansbeingfilledorblownup,mayhavegiventhisdeep-friedbreaditsname.Itiseatenforbreakfast,asasnackoraspartofafeast.Poori-bhajiisaclassiccombinationwithspicedpotatoes.NorthIndiantemplesservehalwa-pooriasblessedfood,thehalwabeingasweetsemolinapudding,whereasMaharashtrianweddingfeastsoftenincludeshrikhandpoori,wheretheyareservedwithsaffron-andcardamom-flavouredsweetenedhungyogurt.

Makes18–20smallpoorisPREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING20minutes

YOUWILLNEED:300gstonegroundwholewheatflour(atta),plusextrafordustingvegetableoil,for

deep-fryingtepidwater,asneeded

1Combinetheflourand1tablespoonofoilinabowl.Addalittletepidwateratatime,untiltheflourcomestogetherandyoucankneaditwithoutitstickingtoyourfingers.Kneadthedoughonalightlyflouredsurfacefor5–6minutes,untilsmooth.Thedoughshouldbestiffbutspringy.

2Dividethedoughinto18–20equal-sizedballs,thesizeofalargecherry.Smearyourpalmswithoilandsmootheachball.

3Heatenoughoilinadeepfryingpanorkarahitofillitupto6cmoverahighheat.Whiletheoilisheatingup,rolleachballoutintoaflatdisc,2.5cmindiameter,onasheetofgreaseproofpaperorworktop,flouringthesurfaceminimallyifnecessary.Toomuchflourwillsettleasaburntresidueinthehotoilandspoilthelookofthepooris.Testthetemperature

oftheoilbydroppinginapea-sizedballofdough.Itshouldriseuptothesurfaceinacoupleofseconds.Ifitrisesimmediately,theoilistoohotsoreducetheheat.

4Gentlyplaceadiscinthehotoil,pressingitdownwiththebackofaslottedspoonuntilpuffyandgolden.Flipitoverandfryfor1minute.Itwillpuffuponlyiftheoilishotenoughandthedischasbeensubmerged.Liftitoutwithaslottedspoonanddrainonkitchenpaper.Keepwarminfoilwhiletherestofthepoorisarebeingfried.

5Frytheremainingpooris,adjustingtheheatsothatthepoorisdonotbrownexcessively.

PalakPoori

[FRIEDSPINACHBREAD]

Thisisahealthyanddeliciouspoorithatgoeswellwithsavourycurriesorsimplywithsomehotpickleandplainyogurt.TheBengali‘luchi’isasimilarfriedbreadmadewithoutthespinach,withplainflouror‘maida’.

Makes18–20smallpoorisPREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING30minutes

2handfulsoffreshspinach,washedanddrained1freshgreenchilli2.5cmpieceoffreshrootginger,scrapedandchopped300gstonegroundwholewheatflour(atta),plusextrafordustingvegetableoil,fordeep-fryingtepidwater,asneededsalt

1Heatthespinachinasmallpanwithacoupleoftablespoonsofwater,thechilliandgingerfor5–6minutesuntilthespinachhaswilted.Transferthemixturetoablenderandblitzuntilsmooth.2Combinetheflour,1tablespoonofoil,thespinachpuréeandapinchofsaltinabowl.Dependingonhowwetyourspinachpuréeis,youwillneedonlyalittlewarmwaterifatall.Pourthisin,alittleatatime,untiltheingredientscometogether,thenplaceonasurfaceandkneadtoformastiffdough.3Heatenoughoilinadeepkarahiorpantofillitupto6cmoverahighheat.Whiletheoilisheatingup,shapethedoughinto18–20equal-sizedballs,thenrolleachballonaflouredboardintoaflatdisc5–6cmwideandacoupleofmillimetresthick.Shakeoffanyexcessflourandfryapooriinthehotoil,submergingitwiththebackofaslottedspoonsothatitpuffsup.Flipitoverandcookforafurtherminute.Removeanddrainonkitchenpaper.Keepwarminfoilwhileyoucooktherestofthepooris.

4Frytheremainingpooris,adjustingtheheatsothatthepoorisdonotbrownexcessively.Servehot.

KheemeKeParatha

[LAMBMINCE-STUFFEDBREAD]

InthenorthofIndia,breadsaremadewithavarietyofstuffings,suchasspicedpotatoes,cauliflower,turnipsandmooli.Thislamb-minceparathaisarichbreadeatenwithplainyogurt.Thelambcanbesubstitutedwithbeefmince,ifyouprefer.

Makes8parathasPREPARATION→20minutes,plus10minutesrestingtimeCOOKING45minutes

Forthestuffing1tablespoonvegetableoil½teaspooncuminseeds1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste2freshgreenchillies,finelychopped200gleanlambmince½teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspoongarammasala2tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshcorianderleavessaltForthebread400gstonegroundwholewheatflour(atta)vegetableoil,forfrying200–225mltepidwater,asneeded

1Heatthevegetableoilinafryingpanoverahighheat.Addthecuminseedsandfryuntilslightlydark,thenaddtheginger-garlicpaste,chillies,mince,turmericandgarammasala,andseasonwithsalt.Breakupthemincewithawoodenspoon,coverandcook,reducingtheheatwhenthemixturebeginstobubble.Simmerfor15minutesuntiltheminceiscooked.Removethelidandincreasetheheattoallowanyliquidinthepantoevaporate,thenaddthecorianderleaves.Transferthemixturetoafoodprocessororblenderandblitzuntilquitesmooth.2Whiletheminceiscooking,makethedough.Placetheflour(reservingsome

fordusting)inabowlwith1tablespoonofoilandalargepinchofsalt,thengraduallyaddthetepidwateruntilyouhaveasmoothandfirmdough(seeMasterclass).Transfertoasurfaceandkneadwellfor7–8minutesuntilsmoothandnolongersticky.Restthedoughinthebowlfor10minutes,coveredwithaclean,dampteatowel.3Dividethedoughinto16equal-sizedballs.Rolleachballintoaflatdiscabout10cmindiameter,dustingthedoughwithalittleflourifsticky.4Smearalayerofthelambminceoveronediscthenplaceanotherdiscofdoughontop.Sealtheedgestomakeaflatparcel.Repeatwiththeremainingparathasandplacethemongreaseproofpaper.5Heatafryingpanoverahighheatanddotitwithoil.Cookaparathafor3–4minutesononesideuntilfleckedwithtinydarkspotsontheunderside,thenflipitoverandcookontheothersidefor3–4minutes.Removeandkeepwarm,wrappedinfoil.6Cooktherestoftheparathasinthesameway.

BajreKiBhakri

[PEARLMILLETBREAD]

Thisisarough-textured,drybreadthatiseatenwithbutterorghee.Asmilletisagluten-freegrain,youneedtopattheseintoshaperatherthanrollingthem,astheytendtobreakeasily.Bhakriscanbelargeorsmall(Ilikethesmallonesastheyareeasiertohandle).

Makes8bhakrisPREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING35minutes

300gmilletflour125–150mltepidwater,asneededmeltedbutterorghee,forbrushing

1Puttheflourinalargebowl,makeawellinthecentreandgraduallypourinthetepidwateruntilyouhaveasoft,smoothdough.2Moistenyourpalmsanddividethedoughinto8equal-sizedballs.Placeaballofdoughonasheetofgreaseproofpaperorplastic.Patthedoughintoaflatdisc,about10cmwideand5mmthick,usingyourmoistenedpalms.Youwillneedtokeepwettingyourpalmsothatthediscdoesnotbreakintobits.Alternatively,flattentheballofdough,placeitonawell-oiledsheetofgreaseproofpaperorplasticandcoveritwithanotheroiledsheetofgreaseproofpaperorplasticandpressdownonitgentlywithasmallplatetoflattenit.Gentlypeelawaytheplasticandremovethebhakri,whichshouldbeslightlysmallerthanthesizeoftheplate.Repeatwiththe7remainingdoughballsandplacethemonasheetofgreaseproofpaper.3Heatagriddlepanorfryingpanoverahighheatandbrushitwithbutterorghee.4Placeonebhakrionthehotpan.Cookfor2–3minutesuntilsmallbubblesappearonthesurface,thencarefullyflipovertocooktheotherside.Pressit

downwiththebackofaspatula,brusheachsidewithmoregheeandcookuntilopaqueandfleckedwithbrownspotsonbothsides.Repeatwiththeremainingbhakris.5Thisbreadmustbeeatenimmediatelyasitgetshardandleatheryifmadeinadvance.

MakkiKiRoti

[CORNBREAD]

Thisgold-colouredbreadisaPunjabiwinterdelicacyandiseatenwith‘sarsonkasaag’,seasonalmustardgreenscookedwithlotsofghee.MostPunjabiswouldagreethatthiscouldbecalledthesignaturemealoftheirstateasit’ssolocal,seasonalanddelicious!

Makes8rotisPREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING30minutes

300gcornmeal(makkikaatta)pinchofsalt150–180mltepidwater,asneededcornflour,fordustingvegetableoilorghee,forbrushing

1Placethecornmealinabowlwiththesalt,makeawellinthecentreandgraduallyaddthetepidwater,mixinguntilyouhaveastiffdough.Transfertoasurfaceandkneadfor3–4minutesuntilsmooth,thenforminto8equal-sizedballs.2Placeonedoughballonaflouredsurfaceandpatitwithyourpalmtoflattenitintoadisc10cmindiameterand5mmthick.Dustyourpalmwithcornflourifnecessary.Repeatwithremainingballs.Youcanalsoplacetheballonasheetofplasticandpatitwithmoistenedhandstoflattenitintoasmallcircle.Thiswillallowyoutoliftiteasily.3Heatagriddlepanoverahighheatandgentlyliftadiscontoit.After2–3minutes,whenthesurfaceappearsbubbly,turnitoverandcookontheotherside.Brushwithoilorgheeonbothsidesandcookforafurther2–3minutesuntilthebreadhaschangedcolourandisfleckedwithbrownspots.Transferthecookedrotitoasheetoffoilandencloseinthefoiltokeepitwarm,thenrepeatwiththeremainingdiscs.

Pesarattu

[GREENMUNGBEANDOSA]

ThisisabreakfastspecialityofAndhraPradesh,wheredosasarecalled‘attu’andgreenmungbeansareknownas‘pesarapappu’.Thebatterisunfermentedandthedosaisusuallyservedwithgingerandcoconutchutneys.AversionsoldinrestaurantsinHyderabadisMLApesarattuwithsavourysemolinacalled‘upma’asastuffing.Increasingtheamountofriceslightlywillgiveacrisperdosa.

Makes10dosasPREPARATION→15minutes,plusovernightsoakingCOOKING30minutes

200gwholegreenmungbeans,soakedinwaterovernight100ginexpensivewhiterice,soakedinwaterovernight1teaspooncuminseeds

2freshgreenchillies,dicedthumb-sizedpieceoffreshrootginger,scrapedanddiced1mediumonion,diced

afewfreshcorianderleaves,finelychoppedvegetableoil,forfryingsalt

1Drainthebeansandrice,rinseandtransfertoablenderwiththecuminseeds,greenchillies,ginger,onionandcorianderleaves.Blenduntilsmoothwithenoughwater(about300ml)tomakeasmoothbatterwithapouringconsistency.Seasonwithsalt.2Heatagriddlepanorfryingpanoverahighheatandpouraladlefulofthebatterintothecentre.Spreaditoutwiththebackofaspoontomakeadiscabout10cmindiameter.3Dottheedgeswithoilandcookfor2–3minutes.Whentheundersideiscooked,turnitovertocooktheothersidefor1–2minutes.4Removefromtheheat,wrapthedosainfoiltokeepwarm,andrepeatwiththeremainingbatter.Sometimespesarattuisservedwithalittledicedonionandchillisprinkledonitaswell.

BesanKiRoti

[GRAMFLOURPANCAKES]

Thisrecipeiscookedindifferentpartsofthecountrybutisvariouslycalled‘chilla’,‘cheela’,‘pudla’or‘poora’.InRajasthan,thesearealsomadewithgreenbeansormungbeanflourandarecalled‘cheeldo’.Itisservedwithacurryorvegetablesidedishorsimplywithyogurt,asalightmeal.

Makes8rotisPREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING15minutes

200ggramflour100–150mlcoldwater1smallonion,finelydicedthumb-sizedpieceoffreshrootginger,scrapedandgratedsmallsprigoffreshcorianderleaves,chopped1freshgreenchilli,finelydiced¼teaspoongroundcuminvegetableoil,forfryingsalt

1Puttheflourinabowlwithsomesalttoseason.Addalittleofthecoldwaterandwhisktostartmakingabatter.Continueaddingthewater,alittleatatime,untilyouhaveathickbatterofpouringconsistency,whiskingwelltoremoveanylumps.2Addtheonion,ginger,coriander,chilliandcumintothebatterandmixwell.3Heatafryingpanoverahighheatanddotwithoil.Pouraladlefulofbatterintothepanandspreaditwiththebackofthespoonintoathindisc.After2–3minutes,fliptherotioverandcookontheothersidewithsomemoreoil.Bothsidesshouldbegolden.4Removefromthepanandwraptherotiinfoiltokeepitwarm.Make7morerotiswiththeremainingbatter.

5Ifmakingthebatterinadvance,don’taddtheonionandgingeruntilyou’rereadytocooktherotiasthesaltwilldrawouttheirjuicesandthinthebatter.

Pesarattu(topleft/middle);BesanKiRoti(topright);Thalipeeth(bottom)–recipe.

MASTERCLASS

LACCHAPARATHA–Soft,LayeredBreadwithCrispEdges

ThebestlacchaparathaI’veeatenwasatthegorgeousBombayBrasserierestaurantinLondonwhenIworkedthereintheearly1990s.Itwasflaky,softandcrispandIalwayshadminewiththesavourylambroganjosh.AKeralaorMalabarparottaismadeinasimilarway,butwithmoreplainflourthanwholewheatflourthanhere,tomakeasofter,moreelasticbread.

Makes8parathasPREPARATION→15minutes,plus15minutesrestingtimeCOOKING30minutes

YOUWILLNEED:250gstonegroundwholewheatflour(atta),plusextrafordusting50gplainflouror

maidapinchofsalt2tablespoonsvegetableoilormeltedghee,plusextraforbrushingandshallow-

frying150–180mltepidwater,asneeded

1Combinethetwofloursandsaltinabowl.Rubtheoilorgheeintotheflourthenaddthetepidwater,acoupleoftablespoonsatatime,untilyouhaveasoftdough.Kneadthedoughwellonasurfaceuntilsmoothandnolongersticky,thenplaceitbackinthebowl,coverthebowlwithacleanteatowelandleaveittorestonthekitchensurfacefor15minutes.

2Removethedoughfromthebowlandkneaditagain,thendivideitinto8equal-sizedportionsandshapeeachportionintoaball.Flattentheballsslightlyandrollthemeachoutintoacircleabout10cmindiameter.

3Brushthedoughcirclesliberallywithoilormeltedgheeanddustwithalittleflour.Startingatoneend,foldtherotiintosmallpleatslikeafan.Foldtheentirerotitotheotherenduntilitresemblesalongstripoftinyfolds.Now,startingfromoneend,coilitintoatightspiral,foldingtheendinto

thecentre.Foldandrolltheremainingdoughcirclesintospirals.

4Withoutdustingthemwithflour,flattenthespiralsandrollthemoutagain,gently,toabout10cmindiameter.

5Heatagriddlepanoverahighheat.Placeoneparathaonthehotpanandcookfor2–3minutesuntilthesurfacebeginstobubble.Flipitoverandcookontheothersidefor1–2minutes.Brushbothsideswithgheeoroilwhilecooking,untilgoldenandfleckedwithbrownspots.

6Transferthecookedparathatoaplateandcrushslightlytoloosenthelayers.Thisisessentialforthemtoachievetherightappearance.Wrapthecookedparathasinfoiltokeepthemwarmwhilecookingtherest.

MASTERCLASS

ALOOKEPARONTHE–Potato-stuffedBread

Twodifferenttechniquesforstuffingaparatha/paronthe.

ThisisapopularPunjabiornorthIndianbreakfastbutitisalsoservedatmealtimeswithyogurtandhotpickle.Therearetwowaystostuffthebread,eitherbyrollingouttwodiscs,puttingsomeofthefillinginbetweenandsealingtheedgesorbythemethoddescribedopposite.Bothhavethesameresults.

Makes8parathasPREPARATION→10minutes,plus10minutesrestingtimeCOOKING40minutes

YOUWILLNEED:Forthestuffing2mediumpotatoes½teaspooncuminseedsahandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,finelychoppedjuiceof1lemon1freshgreenchilli,minced

1freshgreenchilli,mincedForthebread300gstonegroundwholewheatflour(atta),plusextrafordusting150–180mltepid

water,asneededvegetableoil,forfryingandbrushingsalt

1Boilthepotatoeswholeuntilverysoft,thenpeelandmashthem.Iboilthemintheirskins(ratherthancookthempeeledanddiced)astheytendtoabsorblesswaterthisway,makingforadriermash.

2Dry-toastthecuminseedsinafryingpanoverahighheatuntiltheychangecolourandbecomearomatic.Tipthemintoapestleandmortarorspicemillandcrushcoarsely.

3Combinethetoastedcumin,coriander,mashedpotato,lemonjuiceandchilli,seasonwithsaltandmixwell.Dividethemixtureinto8equal-sizedparts.Thisisthefilling.

4Puttheflourinalargebowl,makeawellinthecentreandgraduallyaddthetepidwatertomakeasoftdough.Transfertoasurfaceandkneadwellfor7–8minutesuntilsmoothandnolongersticky.Restthedoughinthebowlunderaclean,dampteatowelfor10minutes.

5Dividethedoughinto8equal-sizedballs.Rolloutaballofdoughonaflouredsurfacetoasmalldisc,about10cmindiameter.Placeonepartofthefillinginthecentreofthediscandgatheruptheedgesofthediscaroundit.Flourasurfaceandlightlyrollouttheparathatoabout15cmindiameter.

6Heatateaspoonofoilinalargefryingpanoverahighheat.Gentlyliftthediscandplaceitinthepan.Cookfor3–4minutes,brushwithoil,thencarefullyflipovertocooktheotherside.Pressitdownwiththebackofaflatspoon,especiallyaroundtheedges,sothattheparathacooksevenly.

7Removefromtheheat,brushwithoilandkeepwarm.Repeatwiththeremainingdoughandfilling.Wrapthecookedparathasinfoiltokeepthemwarmwhilecookingtherest.

Thalipeeth

[SPICEDMULTIGRAINBREAD]

Thisisamuch-lovedMaharashtrianbread(seephotoonhere).Theflourmixcancontainuptosixgrainsandlentilssuchaswheat,rice,chickpeas,splitblacklentils,pearlmilletandsorghumorjowar,whichareroastedandcrushedinamill.Asthismaybetedioustomake,peoplebuyaready-madeflourmixcalled‘bhajani’.Thisrecipeisaneasyversion,usingfloursreadilyavailableinthekitchencupboard.

Makes8thalipeethPREPARATION→20minutesCOOKING30minutes

300gmixedflours,suchasgramflour,riceflour,pearlmilletflourandstonegroundwholewheatflourinequalquantities,plusextrafordusting

½teaspoongroundcumin1onion,finelychopped2freshgreenchillies,mincedahandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,finelychopped150–180mltepidwater,asneededvegetableoil,forfrying

1Combinetheflours,cumin,onion,chilliesandcorianderinalargebowl.Makeawellinthecentreandaddthewater,alittleatatime,untilthemixtureformsastiffdough,thentransfertoasurfaceandkneaduntilsmooth.Dividethedoughinto8equal-sizedballs.2Placeonedoughballonasheetofflouredgreaseproofpaperandplaceanothersheetontop.Patthedoughintoaflatdisc8cmindiameter.Repeatwiththe7remainingdoughballs.3Heatagriddlepanoverahighheatandgentlyliftonediscontoit.Piercesomesmallholesinthediscwithaskewerorthetipofasmallknife(thishelpsthebreadcookevenly)andcookfor2–3minutes.Dotthethalipeethwithoil.Flipit

overandcookontheothersidefor2–3minutesuntilthebreadisfleckedwithbrownspotsonbothsides.Wrapthecookedthalipeethinfoiltokeepitwarmandrepeatwiththeremainingdiscs.

Bhatura

[FLUFFY,SOFTBREAD]

CholaybhatureisaclassicPunjabicombinationofchickpeasservedwithfluffy,friedbread.ItisasnaturaltoeatthisinagourmetrestaurantasitistoeatitataroadsidestallinanynortherncityofIndia.Restaurantsservelargebhaturas,astheyarefriedinbigcommercialkarahis.Homemadeonesaresmallerastheyarecookedindomesticfryingpans.

Makes10bhaturasPREPARATION→15minutes,plus30minutesrestingtimeCOOKING30minutes

300gplainflourormaida½teaspoonbakingpowderpinchofsalt100gnaturalyogurt150–180mltepidwater,asneededvegetableoil,fordeep-fryingchanamasala,toserve

(optional)

1Sifttheflour,bakingpowderandsaltintoabowl.Addtheyogurtandmixwell.Mixinthetepidwater,acoupleoftablespoonsatatime,untilyouhaveasoftdough.Add1tablespoonofoilatthispointandkneadthedoughfor7–8minutesuntilitisverysoftbutnolongersticky.2Placeinthebowl,coverwithaclean,dampteatowelandsetasidefor30minutesinawarmplace.3Heatenoughvegetableoilinadeepfryingpantodeep-frythebhaturas.Dividetheresteddoughinto10smallequal-sizedballs,eachaboutthesizeofalime.Greaseyourhandsandaballofdoughwithoilandrolllightlyintoasmall,flatdiscoroblongshapeabout10cmwideand5mmthick.4Whentheoilissmokinghot,reducetheheatandfrythebhaturas,oneatatime,forabout2minutesuntilfluffy.Repeatwiththeremainingballs,makingsuretoregulatetheheatsothatitishotenoughtocookthebhaturaswithinacoupleofminuteswithoutbrowningthemtooquickly.Wrapthecookedbhaturainfoiltokeepitwarmwhilefryingtherest.Servehotwithchanamasala,ifyou

like.

MASTERCLASS

DOSAS–LentilandRicePancakes

ThesearesouthIndia’sfavouritepancakesandaremostlyeatenforbreakfast.Theyareservedplain,asinthisrecipe,orstuffedwithaspicedpotatomixtureandcalled‘masaladosa’.Restaurantsserveversionscalled‘paperdosa’thatarecrispandsofineyoucanalmostseethroughthem,or‘metredosa’thatis1-metrelongandcanfeedthewholefamily.

Makes16dosasPREPARATION→15minutes,plus5hourssoakingandovernightfermentingCOOKING25minutes

YOUWILLNEED:300ginexpensivebasmatirice,washed,drainedandsoakedinwaterfor5hours150gsplitskinlessblacklentils(theselookwhiteandarecalleduraddal),soakedin

waterfor5hoursvegetableoil,forfryingsalt

1Drainthericeandlentilsandblitzthemseparatelyinablender,addingenoughcoldwatertojustcovereachofthem,untilyouhavetwosmooth,thickbatters.Combinethesebatters,coverwithclingfilmandleavetofermentinawarmplacefor12hours.

2Seasonthebatterwithsaltandheatafryingpanoverahighheat.Stirthebatterwellandpouraladlefulofitintothecentreofthepan.Spreadthemixtureoutquicklyfromthecentreouttotheedgeswiththebackofaspoon,tomakeaneat10cmcircle.

3Drizzleafewdropsofoilaroundtheedgesofthedosaifitstartstostick.Reducetheheat,coverthepanandcookforabout30seconds.Removethelid,turnthedosaoverwithaspatula,replacethelidandcookontheother

sideforabout30secondsuntilitissealed.Repeatwiththeremainingbatter,keepingthecookedpancakeswarmonacoveredplate,andserveatoncewithacoconutchutneyandsambhar.

NeerDosa

[WATERPANCAKES]

TheseareservedforbreakfastintheUdipiregionofKarnataka.Theyarelightandlacyandnotveryfilling,sotheyareservedwiththicklentilsambhar.

Makes22dosasPREPARATION→20minutes,plusovernightsoakingCOOKING25minutes

300ginexpensivebasmatirice,washed,drainedandsoakedinwaterovernight100gfreshcoconut,gratedvegetableoil,forfryingsalt

1Drainandrinsethericeandplaceitinablenderwiththecoconutandenoughwatertocoverthemixtureandblitztomakeafinepurée.Pourthebatterintoabowl.Atthisstageitwillprobablycoatthebackofaspoon.Ifso,addmorewater–enoughtomakeathinrunnybatterthatwillnotcoatthebackofaspoon.Seasonwithsalt.2Heatafryingpanoverahighheatanddrizzleinafewdropsofoil.Wipetheoilaroundthepanwithsomekitchenpaper.3Pourinaladlefulofbatterandswirlthepan:thebattershouldcoatthepaninathinlayer.Coverthepanandletthedosacookoverahighheatforacoupleofminutes.4Liftofftheedgeswithaspatula,foldthedosaintoatriangleandserveatonce.Repeatwiththeremainingbatter.

Appams

[SAVOURYCOCONUTPANCAKES]

ThisisasouthIndianriceandcoconutfermentedpancakethatiseatenforbreakfastorwithamainmeal.VariousrecipesusefreshcoconutoryeastbutIusecoconutmilkandbakingpowderforease.Therearevariouskindsofappams–bothsweetandsavoury–whichareeatenwithfierycoconut-basedstewsandcurries.Theyaretraditionallymadeinan‘appamchatti’,aconvex,roundedpan.Youcanuseawokorakarahi.

Makes16pancakesPREPARATION→20minutes,plus3hourssoakingtimeandovernightfermentingCOOKING25minutes

300ginexpensivebasmatirice,washed,drainedandsoakedinwaterfor3hours150mlcoconutmilk2teaspoonscastersugarpinchofsalt½teaspoonbicarbonateofsodasunflowerorgingelly(til)oil,forgreasing

1Drainthericeandputitinablenderwiththecoconutmilk.Blitzuntilyouhaveafinebatterwithapouringconsistency.Ricecanbecomegrittyinabattersokeeptheblendergoingalittlebitlongerthanyouthinkyouneedto,togetitasfineaspossible.2Pourthebatterintoabowl,coverwithclingfilmandleavetofermentovernightinawarmplace.3Thefollowingday,addthesugar,saltandbicarbonateofsoda.Ifthebatterisnolongerrunny,addalittlewater.4Heataround-bottomedpan,suchasawokorkarahi,overahighheatandbrushitwiththetiniestamountofoil.

5Whenthepanishot,pouraladlefulofthebatterintothecentreandswirlthepantocoatthesides.Coverthepanandlettheappamcookforaminuteorso:itwillgetahoneycomblookandtheedgeswillbethinnerthanthesides–thethickercentreshouldbecomeopaque.Liftitoutofthepangentlyandserveimmediately.Repeatwiththeremainingbatter.

Paalaada

[RICE,COCONUTANDEGGPANCAKES]

ThesearevelvetysoftpancakeseatenbytheMuslimpopulationofTamilNaduandKerala,withspicychicken,muttonorbeefcurries.Thenameprobablycomesfromthefinenessoftheskinthatformsontopofboiledmilk(‘paal-aada’inTamilandMalayalam).ItisafestivepancakeeatenduringEidand–beingsofine–severalaremadeperperson.

Makes22pancakesPREPARATION→15minutes,plus5hourssoakingtimeCOOKING25minutes

300ginexpensivewhiterice,washed,drainedandsoakedfor5hours200mlcoconutmilk2mediumeggssalt

1Drainthericeandputitinablenderwiththecoconutmilk.Blitztoafinepuréetomakeasmoothbatter.2Passmostofthisbatterthroughasieveintoabowl,leavingabout4tablespoonsbehindintheblender.Addtheeggstotheblenderandblitzforaminute,thenpourthismixturethroughthesieve.Seasonwithsalt.Thebattershouldbeveryrunnyandbarelycoatthebackofaspoon.Ifitisn’trunnyenough,addalittlewatertothinitdown.3Heatanon-stickfryingpanoverahighheat.Pourinaladlefulofbatterandswirlthepansoitcoatsthesidesofthepan.Thepancaketakessecondstocook.Onceithasbecomeopaqueandset,folditintoatriangleandserveatonce.Repeatwiththeremainingbatter.

Adai

[RICEANDYELLOWLENTILPANCAKES]

InmanyTamilhouseholds,thebatterfordosas,adaisandvariousotherbreakfastandsnackfoodsismadeonceaweekandstoredinthefridge.Mostofthesekitchenshavea‘wetgrinder’thatcansuccessfullypulverisehardgrainsandpulseswiththehelpofaliquid.Theseadaiarealsocalled‘adadosa’.

Makes10pancakesPREPARATION→15minutes,plus4hourssoakingtimeCOOKING35minutes

1smallonion,finelydiced1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste1smallgreenchilli,mincedvegetableoil,forfryingForthebatter150ginexpensivewhiterice,washed,drainedandsoakedinwaterfor4hours50gtoordalorsplitgramlentils(chanadal),soakedinwaterfor4hours50gsplitskinlessblacklentils(uraddal),soakedinwaterfor4hourssalt

1Drainthericeandlentilsandputtheminablenderwithenoughwatertojustcoverthem.Blitztoafinepurée.Thebattershouldhaveathickpouringconsistency,soaddacouplemoretablespoonsofwaterifnecessary.Seasonwithsalt.2Addthedicedonion,ginger-garlicpasteandgreenchillitothebatterandmixthemin.3Heatanon-stickfryingpanoverahighheatandpourinaladlefulofbatter.Spreaditoutthinlywiththebackoftheladleanddrizzlealittleoilaroundtheedges.Cookfor1–2minutes,thenflipitoverandcookontheothersideforabout1minute.Bothsidesshouldbegolden.Serveatonce.Repeatwiththe

remainingbatter.

Pakwan

[CRISPSINDHI-STYLEBREAD]

ThisSindhibreadisofteneatenforbreakfastalongwithSindhiDal,butIcouldeatitatanytimeoftheday.Thebreadisprickedwithaforkbeforefryingsothatitdoesnotpuffup:insteaditbecomescrisp,atexturethatcomplementsthecreaminessoftheaccompanyingdal.

Makes8breadsPREPARATION→15minutes,plus10minutesrestingtimeCOOKING40minutes

300gplainflour,plusextrafordusting1tablespoongheepinchofsalt150–180mltepidwater,asneededvegetableoil,fordeep-frying

1Mixtheflour,gheeandsaltinabowl.Addthetepidwater,acoupleoftablespoonsatatime,untilyouhaveasoftdough.Transfertoasurfaceandkneadthedoughwellfor5–6minutes,thenleavethedoughtorestfor10minutesinthebowl,coveredwithaclean,dampteatowel.2Dividethedoughinto8equal-sizedballsandrollouteachballintothindiscsabout8cmindiameter.Flourtheboardasnecessary.3Prickthediscsalloverwithafork.4Heatenoughoilinadeepfryingpanorkadhaitocomeupto5cmoverahighheat.Whennearlysmoking,reducetheheatandgentlyslideinapakwan.Frythemoneatatimefor3–4minutesuntilgoldenandcrisp.5Drainonkitchenpaperandkeepwarm,wrappedinfoil,whileyoufrytherestofthepakwans.

DalGoshtKoftaCurryKheemaMutterSaagGoshtLambDhansakLambVepuduLaalMaasAabGoshtSaojiMuttonRoganJoshRailwayMuttonCurryRaanNihariLambRezalaBhunaGoshtNilgiriKurmaKoshaMangshoKolhapuriTambdaRassaNadanBeefFryPorkWithGaanjTengaPorkVindaloo

ININDIAMEATHASALWAYSBEENCOOKEDWITHSPICESANDEVENINTHERamayana,ONEOFINDIA’SGREATESTANDOLDESTEPICS,MUTTONANDPORKARECOOKEDIN

FRUITJUICESWITHCLOVESANDOTHERSPICES.

MeatconsumptionhasalongandvariedhistoryinIndia.Bonesofbuffalo,sheep,fishandfowlhavebeenfoundinIndusValley(3300BC–1700BC)excavationsanddetaileddescriptionsofanimalsacrificeandeatingmeatareseeninlaterVedictexts.TheVedasthemselves,whicharesomeofthemostsacredtextsofHinduism,listdomesticatedcattle,swineandwildanimalsamongthosethatcouldbesacrificed.

Charaka,oneoftheearliestpractitionersofAyurveda,recommendedmeatanditsbrothforconvalescentsandforthosedoinghardphysicalwork,meaningmen.ItwasonlyafterthearrivalofBuddhismandJainism,tworeligionsthatbelieveinnon-violence,thatHinduismturnedtowardsvegetarianism.Today,almostathirdofIndiaisvegetarianandmostreligiousHindufeastsdonotcontainmeat.

InIndia,theword‘mutton’looselyreferstomeatandthiscouldbesheep,goatorbeef.Themostcommonisgoatmeat,alsocalled‘bakrekagosht’.Beef,called‘badekagosht’(meatofthebigone),issoldinsomestateswhereascowslaughterisillegalinothers.Theselawsarenotuniform,sosomestatesallowcowsaboveacertainagetobekilledwhereasothersbanthepracticecompletely.Thismeansthatbeefisusuallybuffalomeat,ascowsareconsideredsacredinHinduism.

Althoughbeefisnotcommonlyseeninshopsoronrestaurantmenus,itiscertainlyeateninIndia.PopulardishessuchastheKalyaniBiryaniofHyderabadisa‘poorman’sdish’usingfewerspicesandcheapercutsofmeatbutwithlotsofflavour.InKerala,theBeefFryor‘ularthiyathu’issavouredbytheSyrianChristiancommunity.

MeathasalwaysbeencookedwithspicesandevenintheRamayana,oneofIndia’sgreatandoldepics,muttonandporkarecookedinfruitjuiceswithclovesandotherspices.InsouthIndia,meatwascookedwithblackpepperandthefinisheddishwascalled‘kari’.Muchlater,theMughalsbroughtnewwaysof

cookingmeatincreamandwithnutsandfruit.VolumeOneoftheAin-i-AkbariwrittenbyAbuFaz’l(1590AD)describesdishessuchasbiryanimadebycookingsheepingheewithsaffron,cloves,pepperandcuminseed.‘Yakhni’wasmeatcookedwithonionsandalamborkidwaspreferable.Kebabscombinedmeatwithghee,freshginger,onionsandspices.

CUTSOFMEATUSEDININDIANCOOKINGMutton,beef,lamborporkcurriesrelyonastewingtechniquewherethemeatiscookedslowlywiththerestoftheingredientstoabsorbflavouraswellassoften.Therefore,slightlycheapercutsofmeatsuchasshouldercanbeused.Recipessuchas‘boti’kebabsusethedicedlegoftheanimalwhereas‘seekhkebabs’thatareshapedaroundskewersusemincedmeat.Indiansoftenprefertousemeatontheboneasitaddsflavourtocurries.

Allmeatiscookeduntilwelldoneratherthanrareormedium.Indiansarefussyaboutthesmellofmeatandwilladdspicesandherbstomaskthestrongaromaandtoaddflavour.

IndianMuslimseatonlyhalalmeat.HalalistheArabicwordfor‘permissible’andthisfoodisthatwhichadherestoIslamiclaw,asdefinedintheKoran.TheIslamicritualformofslaughteringanimalsorpoultrybycuttingthejugularveininasingleswipeiscalleddhabiha,andallbloodisdrainedawayfromthedeadanimal.

Iliketouseshoulderoflambforcurries,asithasaproportionoffatthathelpstosoftenthemeatasitstews,andlegwithmoremuscleforroasting,soitgivesyoualeanerfinishedproduct.

MARINADESTENDERISERS→Meatisoftenmarinatedbeforebeingcooked,toallowflavourstopenetrateandtosoftenit.Marinadeshavethreecomponents–spicesandherbsforflavour,oilordairytocarryflavourandtobindingredientstogether,andacidtotenderise.Saltaddsflavourandhelpstosoftenthemeat.

AcidicmarinadesAcidicliquidssuchaslemonandlimejuiceorvinegardenatureproteinandloosenthemusclefibreaswellasaddingflavour.Theycan,however,over-softenthemeatandarethereforecombinedwithoiltodilutethemslightly.

EnzymaticmarinadesSomefruitandvegetables,suchasginger,pineapple,figsandkiwis,haveenzymeswhichhelptobreakdownprotein.Themostcommonlyusedoneispapainfromrawpapaya.ThisissoldasawhitepowderinAsianfoodstores,oryoucangrateasmalllime-sizedpieceofrawpapaya.Meatleftinpapainfortoolongcangetmushyandtenderiseunevenly,sodon’tleaveitinformorethanacoupleofhoursifusingthepowder,or6hoursifusingfresh.

DairymarinadesYogurtisamildmarinadeusedinIndiancooking.Itiswidelyavailableandsoftensthemeatallthewaythrough.Theyogurtalsohelpstoholdtherestoftheingredientstogetherandbindthemtothemeat.

Ifyouarenotusingdairy,mixthemarinadeingredients(suchasspices,salt,gingerandgarlic)togetherandrubthemontothemeat.Finishwithacoatingofoil.Ifyoucombinethespiceswithoiltobeginwith,itactsasabarriertotheabsorptionofspicesandsaltintothemeat.

Anoteabouttherecipes:ManyoftherecipesinthischapterwouldbecookedwithgoatmeatinIndia–outsideofIndia,onecanuselamb.

DalGosht

[LAMBWITHLENTILS]

ThecombinationofmeatwithlentilsasasauceisamixofMughalandIndianstyles.Today,thisdishiscommonlyfoundinplacesthathavehadIslamicrulersinthepast,suchasHyderabad,whereitiscalled‘dalcha’.Thechanadaladdsagrainytexture(someversionsofthisrecipeusetoordal,whichmakesasmoothersauce).

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,plusmarinatingtimeforlambandsoakingtimeforlentils(about1hour)COOKING1hour15minutes

600glambonthebone,cubed2tablespoonsfull-fatyogurt150gsplitgramlentils(chanadal),soaked2tablespoons

vegetableoil2largeonions,finelychopped2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste2freshgreenchillies,finelychopped2tablespoonstomatopurée1½teaspoonsgroundturmeric1teaspoongroundcoriander1teaspoongarammasalaafewturnsofapeppermill3teaspoonslemonjuiceafewsprigsoffreshcorianderleaves,washedandchopped,togarnishsaltboiledriceorRotis,toserve

1Placethelambinabowlwiththeyogurtandseasonwithsalt,thensetasidetomarinatefor1hour.Soakthelentilsinplentyofhotwaterfor1hour.2Drainthelentilsandputtheminaheavy-basedsaucepanwithdoublethevolumeofwater(andnosalt)andbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandcookfor45minutesuntilsoft,addingafewtablespoonsofwaterifthelentilsdryout.3Meanwhile,heathalftheoilinaseparateheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheat,addtheonionsandfryfor7–8minutesuntilsoftandbrown.Addtheginger-garlicpasteandgreenchillies,thenstirinthetomatopuréeandcookfora

minute.Tipthismixtureintoablender,addenoughwatertocoverthemixtureandblitztomakeasmoothcurrypaste.Setaside.4Heattheremainingoilinthesamepanoverahighheatandaddthemarinatedlamb.Stirtomopupalltheflavourfromthebottomofthepanandsealwell.Sprinkleinthegroundspices,cookfor30secondsthenpourinthecurrypasteandseasonwithsalt.Mixwellandpourin250mlwater.Bringtotheboil,reducetheheatandsimmerfor1houroruntilthelambistender.Youmayneedtoaddabitmorewaterwhilecookingifthecurrygetstoodry.5Pourinthecookedanddrainedlentilsandmixwell.Addthelemonjuiceandseasontotaste.Sprinklewiththecorianderandservewithriceorrotis.

KoftaCurry

[MEATBALLCURRY]

Theword‘kofta’denotesgroundmeatinPersian.ThisdishismadealloverIndiawithlamborbeefmince,dependingonreligiouspreferences.Icookthemeatballsintheovenbecauseit’shealthiertooven-bakethemthanfrythem,buttheycanbepan-friedandaddedtothesaucewhileit’scooking,ifyoulike.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING35minutes

boiledrice,toserveahandfulofchoppedfreshcorianderleaves,togarnishsaltForthemeatballs300gleanlambmince2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste2freshgreenchillies,finelydicedForthecurry2tablespoonsvegetableoil2bayleaves2largeonions,veryfinelychopped1tablespoonginger-garlicpaste2freshgreenchillies,minced2tomatoes,dicedor½x400gcanofchoppedplumtomatoes1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongarammasala

1Preheattheovento200°C/gasmark6.Combinethemeatballingredientsinalargebowlwithapinchofsalt.Forminto20largecherry-sizedballs.Lineabakingtraywithfoil,placethemeatballsonthetrayandbakefor10minutes.Removefromtheovenandsetaside.2Meanwhile,heattheoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheatandaddthebayleaves.Astheydarken,addtheonionsandcookfor7–8minutesuntilsoftandbrown.Addtheginger-garlicpasteandchilliesandfryforafewseconds,thentipinthetomatoesandstirtosoften.Addthespicesandseason

withsalt.Cookfor10minutesoveramediumheatuntilwellblended,addingasplashofwaterifthecurrybeginstosticktothebottomofthepan.3Gentlyplacethemeatballsinthecurry.Cookforafurther5minutes,seasontotaste,sprinklewiththecorianderandservewithrice.

KheemaMutter

[MINCEDLAMBWITHPEAS]

ThisisapopulardishalloverIndiaandiseatenwithbreadcalled‘pao’,rolledintorotis,orsimplyservedwithplainrice.Italsomakesagoodfillingforsamosas.Youcansubstitutethepeaswithmushroomsordicedpotatoesasavariation.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING30minutes

2tablespoonsvegetableoil10blackpeppercorns,crushed2mediumonions,finelychopped2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste2tablespoonstomatopurée2freshgreenchillies,finelydiced600glambmince150ggreenpeas,shellediffresh,orfrozen1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongarammasalasmallsprigoffreshcorianderleaves,chopped,togarnishsaltRotis,paoorboiledrice,toserve

1Heattheoilinafryingpanoverahighheat,addthecrushedpeppercornsandfryforaminute.Tipintheonions,fryfor7–8minutesuntilgolden,thenaddtheginger-garlicpaste.Stirafewtimesthenaddthetomatopuréeandchillies.Cookforacoupleofminutes.2Addthemince,greenpeas,groundspicesandseasonwithsalt.Breakuptheminceandstirtobrownevenly,thencoverandcookoveralowheatfor20minutes,untilthelambistender.3Seasontotasteandservehot,garnishedwiththechoppedcoriander,withroti,paoorrice.

SaagGosht

[LAMBWITHSPINACH]

Saaggoshtisalsoknownaspalakgosht,asthewords‘saag’and‘palak’areusedinterchangeablyforspinachinsomepartsofIndia,suchasPunjab.Youcanuselambchopsforthisrecipe,ifyouprefer.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING1hour15minutes

200gspinach,cleaned,washedandchopped2tablespoonsvegetableoil1tablespooncorianderseeds2onions,chopped

2.5cmpieceoffreshrootginger,scrapedandchopped4garliccloves,chopped2freshgreenchillies,chopped1tablespoontomatopurée800glambshoulderonthebone,cubed1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoonground

coriander1teaspoongroundcumin1teaspoongarammasalasaltRotisorboiledrice,toserve

1Putthespinachinapanwithafewtablespoonsofwaterandcookfor5minutesuntilwilted.Blitztoapuréeinablenderwiththecookingliquidandsetaside.2Heathalftheoilinafryingpanoverahighheat,addthecorianderseedsandfryfor40secondsuntilslightlydark.Addtheonionsandfryfor8–9minutesuntilbrown,thenaddtheginger,garlicandgreenchillies.Fryfor1minutethenaddthetomatopurée.Mixeverythingtogether,cookfor1minuteuntilblended,thentransfertoablenderwithenoughwatertocoverthemixture,andblitztomakeasmoothcurrypaste.3Heattheremainingoilinapanoverahighheatandaddthelamb.Fry,stirring,for4–5minutesuntilsealed,thenaddthegroundspicesandseasonwithsalt.4Addthecurrypasteandenoughwatertomakeathicksauce.Bringtotheboilthencookoveralowheatfor1houruntilthelambistender,addingmorewaterifnecessary.Addthepuréedspinachandstirtoblend.Seasontotasteandserve

hotwithriceorrotis.

LambDhansak

[PARSILAMBANDLENTILCURRY]

Althoughthismuch-loveddishiseatenforSundaylunchinParsihomes,itistraditionallycookedonthefourthdayafterthepassingawayofarelative.Meatisnotcookedforthefirstthreedaysofmourningandthisdhansakispreparedtomarktheendoftheabstinence.Thereforedhansakisnotconsideredacelebratorydish.

Serves4PREPARATION→30minutesCOOKING1½hours

1largeonion,finelychopped2tomatoes,chopped1smallbottlegourdorcourgette,finelychopped80gredpumpkinorbutternutsquash,

choppedanddeseeded,skinleftonasmallhandfuloffreshfenugreekleaves,chopped,or2tablespoonsdriedfenugreekleavesahandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,choppedahandfuloffreshmintleaves,chopped300gbonelesslambshoulder,cubed150gredlentils,washedanddrained1½teaspoonsgroundturmeric

1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder2teaspoonsdhansakmasalaorgarammasala4tablespoonsmaltvinegar1tablespoonvegetableoil1teaspooncuminseedssaltParsi-styleBrownRice,toserve

1Putalltheingredientsexceptthevinegar,oilandcuminseedsinalargepanalongwithenoughwatertocoverthemandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmer,covered,for1houroruntilthelambandlentilsaresoft.2Lightlywhiskthevegetablesandlentilstomashthem.Themeatwillnotgetmashed.(Somerecipescookthemeatandlentilsseparatelyorscoopthemeatoutofthecurrybeforepuréeingitinablender–Iuseawhiskasitisequallyefficientandquicker.)3Addthevinegar,seasonwithsaltandstir.4Heattheoilinasmallfryingpanoverahighheat,addthecuminseedsandfryforabout30secondsuntilslightlydark.Pourtheoiloverthedhansakandserve

hotwithParsi-stylebrownrice.

LambVepudu

[ANDHRAMUTTONFRY]

AndhraPradeshinsouthIndiagrowsalmosthalfofIndia’sentirechillicropandthereforethestyleofcookingisquitespicy.Mostofthechilliesproducedtherearedriedtoincreasetheirshelflifeandtheyarefoundinalmosteveryrecipefromtheregion,includingthisone.ThisdishisalsofoundinhighwayeateriesandpopularrestaurantsinHyderabad.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING1hour

800glambonthebone,cubed1teaspoongroundturmeric1tablespoonginger-garlicpaste3tablespoonsvegetableoil1largeonion,finelydiced3–4driedredchillies,brokeninhalfandseedsshakenout2freshgreenchillies,finelydiced

10freshor15driedcurryleaves1teaspoongroundcoriander1teaspoongarammasala10blackpeppercorns,coarselycrushedsaltParathasorDosas,toserve

1Putthelamb,turmericandhalftheginger-garlicpasteinapan,seasonwithsaltandaddenoughwatertocoverthelamb.Bringtotheboil,thenreducetheheatandsimmerfor50minutesoruntilthelambistender.Drainandsetthemeattooneside.KeepthebrothtouseasastockinanotherdishsuchasLambDhansak.2Meanwhile,heattheoilinalargefryingpan,addtheonionandfryfor7–8minutesuntilsoft.Addtheremainingginger-garlicpasteandcookfor30seconds.Addtheredandgreenchilliesandcurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter)andcookforafurtherminute.3Sprinkleinthegroundcorianderandgarammasala,thenaddthecookedlambandseasonwithsalt.Cookfor6–7minutesuntilthesaucecoatsthemeat.

Sprinkleinthepepper,seasontotasteandservehotwithparathaordosa.

LaalMaas

[RAJASTHANIMEATANDCHILLICURRY]

ManybrightredRajasthanicurrieslookmuchspicierthantheyactuallyare–MathaniachilliesfromnearJodhpurareusedforcolourandhaveauniqueflavourthatisearthyratherthansimplyhot.I’veusedthemorereadilyavailableKashmiridriedredchillies,whicharealsobrightredandhaveamoderatelevelofheat.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,plus1hourmarinatingtimeCOOKING1hour20minutes

800glambshoulderonthebone,cubed1teaspoongroundcoriander1teaspoongroundcumin

1teaspoongarammasala50gfull-fatyogurt12driedredKashmirichillies,brokeninhalfandseedsshakenout2tablespoonsvegetable

oil1tablespooncorianderseeds2onions,chopped6garliccloves,mincedsaltRotisorboiledrice,toserve

1Combinethelambinabowlwiththegroundcoriander,cuminandgarammasala.Tipintheyogurt,seasonwithsalt,mixandleavetomarinatefor1hour.2Meanwhile,putthedriedchilliesinasmallsaucepanoverahighheat,pourinenoughwatertojustcoverthem,andbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmerfor6–7minutesuntilthechilliesaresoft.Removefromtheheatandsetaside.3Heathalftheoilinafryingpanoverahighheat,addthecorianderseedsandfryforabout30secondsuntilslightlydark.Addtheonionsandfryfor7–8minutesuntilbrown,thenaddthegarlicandcookforafurtherfewminutes.Putthismixtureintoablenderalongwiththesoftchilliesandtheircookingliquid.Topupwithwatersothatitjustcoversthemixtureandblitztoformafine

purée.4Heattheremainingoilinapanoverahighheatandaddthemarinatedlamb.Frythelambforafewminutes,thenaddtheonionandchillipurée.Seasontotasteandcookoveramediumheatfor50minutesuntilthelambistender.Youmayneedtoaddsomewaterduringcookingifthecurrydriesout.Seasontotasteandservehotwithrotisorrice.

AabGosht

[LAMBCURRYWITHMILK]

Thisisamuch-lovedKashmiridishwithasoupygravyandtenderpiecesoflamb.ItisfragrantwithoutbeingtoohotandisoftenservedaspartofafestiveKashmirimealatweddingsorforEid.

Serves4PREPARATION→20minutesCOOKING1½hours

800glambshoulderonthebone,cubed4largegarliccloves,peeled2teaspoonsgroundginger2teaspoonsgroundfennelseeds1smallcinnamonstick

2blackcardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded5greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded8blackpeppercorns

3cloves2tablespoonsghee2onions,sliced250mlwholemilksaltboiledrice,toserve

1Putthelamb,garlic,groundgingerandfennel,cinnamonstick,crushedcardamomseeds,peppercornsandclovesinasaucepan.Seasonwithsalt,thenpourinjustenoughwatertocoverthemeatandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmerfor1houroruntilthemeatistender.Thecookedmeatwillnowbeinameatstock.2Meanwhile,heathalfthegheeinafryingpanoverahighheat,addtheonionsandfryfor8–9minutesuntiltheyarewellbrowned,reducingtheheatastheybegintochangecolour.Drainthem,reservingthegheeforthecurry.Putthedrainedonionsinablender,addenoughcoldwatertojustcoverthemandblitztoafinepurée.3Heattheremaininggheeinasaucepanandaddthebrownonionpurée.Cookforacoupleofminutesthenliftthepiecesofcookedlamboutofthestockandaddthemtotheonions.

4Coatthelambwellandcookfor2–3minutes.Pourthemeatstockthroughasieveintothepanwiththemeatanddiscardthespices.5Pourinthemilkandcookfor7–8minutesuntilthesauceiswellblended.Seasontotasteandservehotwithrice.

SaojiMutton

[SPICYLAMBWITHSPICESANDDRIEDCOCONUT]

TheSaojiorSavjiareasilk-weavingcommunitywhomigratedfromnorthIndiatovariouspartsofthecountrycarryingtheircuisinewiththem.ThisrecipefromNagpuriseatenwithspicywheatpooriscalled‘edmi’.Itusesalocalspicecalled‘dagadphool’whichlookslikeburntpaperwithananiseed-likeflavour.Ifyoucan’tsourceit,useaniseedinstead.

Serves4PREPARATION→20minutesCOOKING1hour15minutes

3tablespoonsvegetableoil2tablespoonscorianderseeds1smallcinnamonstick3cloves8driedredKashmirichillies,brokeninhalfandseedsshakenout1tablespoonwhitepoppy

seeds1tablespoonmountainmoss(dagadphool)or1tablespoonaniseedorfennelseeds2onions,sliced

2tablespoonsginger-garlicpaste3tablespoonsdesiccatedcoconut800ggoatorlambonthebone,cubed2blackcardamom

pods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded4greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscardedsalt

Pooris,toserve

1Heathalftheoilinafryingpanoverahighheatandaddthecorianderseeds,cinnamonstick,cloves,Kashmirichillies,poppyseedsandmountainmoss.Fryfor1minute,thenwhentheseedsdarken,addtheonions.Cookfor8–9minutesuntiltheonionsaresoftandbrown.2Addtheginger-garlicpasteandcoconut.Cookuntilthecoconutturnsgoldenbrown,thentransfertoablender,addenoughcoldwatertojustcoveritandblitztoafinepurée.3Heattheremainingoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheatandfrythemeatfor4–5minutes.Pourinthepuréefromtheblender,addthecrushedcardamomseedsandseasonwithsalt.Rinseouttheblenderwith300mlwaterandpourthisintothecurry.Bringtotheboil,thenreducetheheatandcookfor

50minutesoruntilthemeatistender.Seasontotasteandservehotwithpooris.

RoganJosh

[RICHREDKASHMIRICURRY]

ThisfragrantKashmiridishissometimesreferredtoas‘SabutSalan’becausethemeatisnotmincedbutcubed.ThecolourwasoriginallyderivedfromtherootofAlkanetorRatanJot.Thesedays,cheaperKashmirichillipowderisusedinstead.

Serves4PREPARATION→20minutesCOOKING1½hours

4tablespoonsvegetableoil4cloves2smallcinnamonsticks2largeblackcardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded4

greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded1bladeofmace2largeonions,sliced2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste2tablespoonstomatopurée2bayleaves600glambshoulderonthebone,cubed1teaspoongroundfennelseeds2teaspoons

groundcoriander2teaspoonsKashmirichillipowder1teaspoongroundturmeric2tablespoonsgroundalmonds50gfull-fatyogurt

saltboiledriceorRotis,toserve

1Heathalftheoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheat,addthecloves,cinnamonsticks,cardamomseedsandmace.Fryforacoupleofminutesuntilaromaticthenaddtheonions.Fryoveramediumheatfor10–12minutesuntiltheonionsaregoldenbrownandsoft.Addtheginger-garlicpaste,fryforaminutethenaddthetomatopurée.Stirafewtimesandremovefromtheheat.Transfertoablender,addafewtablespoonsofwaterandblitzuntilsmooth.Setaside.2Heattheremainingoilinapanoverahighheat,addthebayleavesandfryfor30seconds.Addthelamb,reducetheheattomediumandfryuntilbrown,thenaddthegroundspicesandcookforacoupleofminutes.Addthecurrypasteandenoughwatertomakeathicksauce.Seasonwithsaltandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheat,coverandsimmerfor50minutesoruntilthelambistender.

3Foldinthegroundalmondsandyogurtandremovefromtheheat.Seasontotasteandservehotwithriceorrotis.

RailwayMuttonCurry

[LAMBCURRYSERVEDONTHEINDIANRAILNETWORK]

OneofthegreatjoysoftraintravelinIndiaistheendlessvarietyoffoodthatissold.Longjourneysinvolveentiremealsbeingservedtoyouatyourseat.ThiscurrybecamestandardfareontrainsduringtheRajandwasmildlyspicedtosuitthedelicateBritishpalate.Theadditionoftamarindorvinegarhelpedtomakeitlastforafewdays.Today’srailwaycurriesarespicierbutstillquitedelicious!

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING1hour15minutes

800glambonthebone,cubed1tablespoonginger-garlicpaste1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongroundcoriander1teaspoonground

turmeric2tablespoonsvegetableoil8blackpeppercorns1smallcinnamonstick3greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded3driedredKashmirichillies,

brokeninhalfandseedsshakenout8freshor15driedcurryleaves2onions,thinlysliced2tablespoonsmaltvinegaror4tablespoonstamarindpulporshop-boughttamarindpaste

saltboiledrice,toserve

1Placethelambinalargebowlwiththeginger-garlicpasteandgroundspices,seasonwithsaltandcombine.Setasidewhileyoupreparetheremainingingredients.2Heattheoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheatandaddthewholespices,Kashmirichilliesandcurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter).Whentheysizzleandchangecolour,addtheonions.Fryfor8–9minutesuntilsoftandbrown.3Tipinthemeatandfrytoseal,thenpourinthevinegarortamarindpulpandenoughwatertojustcoverthelamb.Bringtotheboil,thenreducetheheatandcookfor50minutes,oruntilthelambistenderandthecurryisthick.Seasontotasteandservehotwithrice.

Raan

[ROASTLEGOFLAMB]

RaanisassociatedwithKashmiricookingorthatofthenorth-westfrontier.InIndianrestaurantsitiscookedinatandoorbuthomecookscanusedomesticovens.Themeatismarinatedtotenderiseitandslow,longcookingensuresthatitfallsoffthebone.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,plus1hourmarinatingtimeCOOKINGabout1½hours(dependingonsizeandqualityofthelamb)

½legoflamb(about1kg)150gfull-fatyogurt2teaspoonsmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongroundturmeric2teaspoonsgarammasala4teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste2tablespoonsgratedrawpapayaor1teaspoonpapainpowder2tablespoonslemonjuicevegetableoil,forgreasingsaltParathasorNaans,toserve

1Make6–8deepincisionsinthelegoflambandrubwithsalttoseason.2Mixtheyogurt,spices,ginger-garlicpaste,papayaandlemonjuicewithsalttoseasonandrubthemixtureontothemeat.Leavethelambtostandfor1hourandpreheattheovento180ºC/gasmark4.3Placethemeatinagreasedroastingtinandpourin5tablespoonsofwater.Sealthetinwithfoilandcookfor30minutesper450gmeat.Whenthemeatiscooked,turnofftheovenandleavethemeattorestintheovenfor20minutes.4Transfertoaservingdishandservewithparathasornaans.

Nihari

[BREAKFASTMEATCURRY]

ThisisafamousDelhimeatcurryeatenforbreakfastafterthefirstMuslimprayers.Indaysgoneby,rulersandkingscouldthenhaveanapuntiltheafternoonprayers.Today,somerestaurantsthatserveNihariclaimthattheadditionofaportionofthepreviousday’scurry,called‘taar’,addsflavourtothefreshone.

Serves4PREPARATION→20minutesCOOKING1hour20minutes

800glambonthebone,includingmarrowbones,diced2tablespoonsginger-garlicpaste1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongroundcoriander1teaspoonground

turmeric1teaspoongroundfennelseeds2tablespoonsghee4cloves1smallcinnamonstick3blackcardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded½teaspoonfreshlygroundblack

pepper2onions,thinlysliced2tablespoonsstonegroundwholewheatflour(atta),mixedwithsomewatertomakea

pastejuiceof½lemonthumb-sizedpieceoffreshrootginger,scrapedandcutinjuliennestrips,togarnishasmall

handfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped,togarnishsaltboiledriceorRotis,toserve

1Combinethemeat,halftheginger-garlicpasteandallthegroundspicesinasaucepanalongwithenoughwatertocoverthemeat,seasonwithsaltandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmerfor1houroruntilthemeatistender.2Heatthegheeinaseparatepanoveramediumheatandaddthewholespices,crushedcardamomseedsandpepper.Fryfor30secondsuntiltheystarttosizzle,thentipintheonionsandfryfor7–8minutesuntilsoft.Addtheremainingginger-garlicpasteandfryfor1minute,thenaddthemeatalongwiththestockithasbeencookedin.Stirintheflourpasteandcookfor4–5minutesuntilthesaucethickensslightly.Addthelemonjuiceandseasontotaste.3Servehot,garnishedwiththejuliennedgingerandfreshcoriander,withriceor

rotisalongside.

LambRezala

[LAMBCURRYWITHSCREWPINEWATER]

WajidAliShah,theNawabofAwadh,nearpresent-dayLucknow,whowasexiledinCalcutta,tookwithhimhisdancinggirls,animalsandcooksandaddedanewwayofcookingtothelocalcuisine.ThisfragrantcurryisnowsopopularthatitisconsideredapartofBengalicookery.ScrewpinewaterisavailablefromIndianorThaigrocersaskewra,kewdaorpandanwater.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,plus30minutesmarinatingtimeCOOKING1hour

600gbonelessshoulderoflamb,trimmedandcubed150gfull-fatyogurt2tablespoonsginger-garlicpaste1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongroundcinnamon1teaspoongarammasala1teaspoonsalt,plusextratoseason2tablespoonsvegetableoil3largeonions,thinlysliced3cloves2blackcardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded1teaspoonkewraorscrewpine

waterRotisorNaans,toserve

1Placethemeatinabowlwiththeyogurt,ginger-garlicpaste,groundspicesandsaltandleavetomarinatefor30minutes.2Meanwhile,heathalftheoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheat,addtheonionsandfryfor7–8minutesuntilgolden.Drainandsetaside.3Addtheremainingoiltothepanand,onceit’swarm,addtheclovesandcrushedcardamomseeds.Whentheysizzle,addthemarinatedmeatandstir.4Addalittlewatertomakeathicksauceandcookoveralowheatfor50minutesuntilthemeatistenderandtheoilseparatesfromthegravy.Youmayneedtoaddalittlewaterifthesaucedriesup.

5Addtheonionsandcookforafurther5minutes.Seasontotaste,drizzlewiththekewraorscrewpinewaterandservehotwithrotisornaans.

BhunaGosht

[SAUTÉEDMEATCURRY]

Asthisdishissautéedandstir-fried,itissemi-drywiththecurryclingingontothepiecesofjuicymeat.Apopularrestaurant-styledish,itisapartofIndo-Islamic,northIndiancookery.Bhunaisatechniqueofcookingratherthanreferringtoingredientsorheatlevel.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,plus2hoursmarinatingtimeCOOKING1hour15minutes

800glambonthebone,cubed5tablespoonsfull-fatyogurt2tablespoonsgratedrawpapayapasteor1teaspoonpapainpowder2tablespoonsvegetableoil

2onions,finelydiced2tablespoonsginger-garlicpaste3tomatoes,dicedor½x400gcanofchoppedtomatoes1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongroundcoriander2teaspoonsgarammasala1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder½teaspooncrushedblackpepperahandfulof

freshcorianderleaves,togarnishsaltboiledriceorLacchaParatha,toserve

1Combinethelamb,yogurtandpapayainabowl.Seasonwithsalt,coverandmarinatefor2hoursinthefridge.2Heattheoilinalargefryingpanoverahighheatandaddtheonions.Sprinkleinapinchofsaltandfryfor7–8minutesuntilsoft.Addtheginger-garlicpasteandfryfor1minute,thenaddthetomatoes.Cookoverahighheatfor4–5minutesuntilablendedpasteforms.3Addthemarinatedlambandmarinadeandfryoverahighheattoseal.Sprinkleinthegroundspices,seasonwithsaltandaddenoughwatertocoatthepan.Bringtotheboil,reducetheheat,coverandcookfor1houroruntilthemeatistender.Stirthemeatfromtimetotimeandifitbeginstostick,addalittlewater.

4Whenthemeatisdone,removethelidandcookoverahighheattoevaporatemostoftheliquid.Thesauceshouldbeconcentrated.Seasontotaste,sprinklewithpepperandfreshcoriander,andservehotwithriceorLacchaParatha.

NilgiriKurma

[LAMBINASPICEDHERBCURRY]

TheNilgiri(BlueMountain)inTamilNadu,southIndia,isarangeofmountainsthatisprobablynamedafterthecarpetofblueflowersthatgrowthere.Itslushevergreenrainforestshaveinspiredthenameofthisgreencurry,whichisthickenedwithpoppyseedsandcoconut,givingitacreamyflavour.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING1hour15minutes

2tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspoonblackmustardseeds1teaspoonfennelseeds1mediumonion,finelychopped2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste1teaspoongarammasala1teaspoongroundturmeric800glambshoulderonthebone,cubedgoodsqueezeoflimesaltboiledriceorAppams,toserveForthefirstcurry/greenherbpaste2handfulsoffreshcorianderleaves,washedandchopped2handfulsoffreshmintleaves,

washedandchopped2freshgreenchillies8freshor15driedcurryleavesForthesecondcurry/coconutpaste1tablespoonwhitepoppyseeds2tablespoonsfreshlygratedordesiccatedcoconut

1Puttheingredientsforthefirstcurrypasteinablenderwithenoughwatertocoverthemandblitzuntilsmooth.Setaside.2Dry-toastthepoppyseedsforthesecondcurrypasteinahotfryingpanuntiltheybegintochangecolour.Transfertoablenderandaddthecoconutandenoughwatertocoverthemixture.Blitzuntilsmooth.3Heattheoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheat,addthemustardseedsandfryuntiltheybegintopop.Tipinthefennelseedsandwaituntilthey

darken,thenaddtheonion.Sprinkleinapinchofsalttohelptheonionsoftenfaster.4Whentheonionissoftandgolden,addtheginger-garlicpasteandfryforacoupleofminutes.Stirinthegarammasalaandturmeric,cookforaminutethenpourinthesecondcurrypaste.Cookforacoupleofminutes.Youmayneedtoaddabitofwaterifthemixturebeginstosticktothebottomofthepan.5Addthelambandfrytoseal,thenpourinthefirstcurrypasteandseasonwithsalt.Addalittlewatertothepanthencoverandcookoverahighheatuntilthecurrybubbles.Reducetheheatandsimmerfor1hour,covered,oruntilthelambistender.Seasontotaste,addasqueezeoflime,andservehotwithriceorappams.

KoshaMangsho

[BENGALILAMBCURRY]

‘Kosha’isto‘sauté’inBengaliandisknownas‘bhuna’innorthIndia.MyBengalifriendsswearbythespicyKoshamadebythefamous‘Golbari’restaurantinKolkatta.

Serves4PREPARATION→20minutes,plus2hoursmarinatingtimeorovernightifpossibleCOOKING1½hours

4mediumonions,sliced2freshgreenchillies,roughlychopped2.5cmpieceoffreshrootginger,scrapedandchopped7garliccloves,chopped800glambshoulderonthebone,cubed1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongroundcoriander4tablespoonsfull-fatyogurt1teaspooncastersugar2tablespoonsmustardoil3bayleaves

4wholegreencardamompods5cloves1smallcinnamonstick1teaspoongarammasala,togarnishsaltboiledrice,toserve

1Puttheonions,chillies,gingerandgarlicinablenderwithalittlewaterandblitztoapurée.Combinethelamb,halfthepurée,turmeric,groundcorianderandyogurtinabowl,seasonwithsalt,coverandmarinateinthefridgefor2hoursorovernightifpossible.Transfertheremainingpuréefromtheblenderintoacontainer,thenaddafewtablespoonsofwatertotheblendertocollectalltheflavourandpourthisintoo.Chillwhilethelambismarinating.2Whenthemarinatingtimeisup,heatthesugarinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheatuntilitbeginstocaramelise.Pourinthemustardoil,heattosmokingpoint,thenreducetheheatandaddthewholespices.Whentheybegintodarken,addthemarinatedlambandfrytoseal.3Addtheremainingchilledpurée.Seasonwithsaltandcookoveramediumheatfor1hour25minutesoruntilthemeatistender.Keepaddingalittlewaterwhenthecurrydriesout.Thesauceshouldbethickandtheoilseparated.Seasontotasteandservehot,sprinkledwiththegarammasalaandwithrice

alongside.

KolhapuriTambdaRassa

[RICHREDMAHARASHTRIANCURRY]

KolhapurinMaharashtraisknownforitsspicy,richmeatandchickencurriesflavouredwithsmall,hot‘lavangi’chilliesandKolhapurimasala,abrightredspiceblend.SankeshwaralsoprovideschilliesforKolhapuricurriesandthesearefieryred,too!

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING1hour20minutes

800glambonthebone,diced1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspooncuminseeds1tablespoonwhitesesameseeds3tablespoonsdesiccatedcoconut2tablespoonsginger-

garlicpasteasmallhandfuloffreshcorianderleaves2tablespoonsvegetableoil2onions,thinlysliced3tablespoonskolhapurimasala,oramixof1tablespoongarammasala,1teaspoon

medium-hotredchillipowderand1teaspooncrushedblackpepperjuiceof1lemonsaltboiledrice,toserve

1Putthelambandturmericinapan,pourinenoughwatertocover,seasonwithsaltandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmer,covered,for1houroruntilthelambistender.2Meanwhile,heatafryingpanoverahighheat,addthecuminseedsanddry-toastthemuntiltheystarttodarken.Addthesesameseedsandcoconut,thenwhentheystarttoturngolden,tipthetoastedspicesintoablenderalongwiththeginger-garlicpasteandfreshcoriander.Pourinenoughcoldwatertojustcoverthemixtureandblitztoformapaste.3Heattheoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheat,addtheonionsandfryfor7–8minutesuntilsoft.AddtheKolhapurimasalaandthecontentsoftheblender,thenadd1tablespoonofwater–thiswillcookthespiceswithoutscorchingthemandencouragetheoiltoseparateattheedges.4Addthecookedmeatandstock,bringtotheboilandsimmerfor4–5minutestoblendtheflavours.Squeezeinthelemonjuiceandseasontotaste.Thecurry

shouldbethin,withtheoil(‘kat’)floatingontop.Servehotwithrice.

NadanBeefFry

[SPICYBEEFWITHONIONS]

ThisfamousChristiandishfromKeralausessweetshallotscalled‘chuvanulli’.Ifyoucannotfindshallots,youcanuseonions.ManyHindusinKeralaeatbeef,andsuchdelicaciesareservedinsmallbarscalled‘toddyshops’allaroundthestate.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING1hour15minutes

boiledrice,RotisorPaalaada,toserveForthespicemix1teaspoonfennelseeds1smallcinnamonstick4cloves2staranise10blackpeppercornsForthecurry800gbonelessbeef,cubed2tablespoonsginger-garlicpaste8shallotsor3onions,finelysliced3tablespoonsdriedcoconutslices1teaspoonmedium-

hotredchillipowder1tablespoongroundcoriander1teaspoongroundturmeric2tablespoonsmaltvinegar2tablespoonscoconutoil10–12freshor20driedcurryleaves1teaspoongarammasala

1teaspoongroundblackpeppersalt

1Heatasmallfryingpanoverahighheat,addthespicesforthespicemixanddry-toastforabout1minuteuntilslightlydarkandfragrant.Crushtoapowderinaspicemillorpestleandmortar.2Mixthebeef,crushedspicemix,ginger-garlicpaste,halftheslicedshallotsoronions,thecoconutslices,groundspicesandvinegarinabowlandseasonwithsalt.3Putthebeefinasaucepanandpourinenoughwatertocomehalfwayupthemixture.Stirandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheat,coverandsimmerfor1

hour,oruntilthebeefistender.Ifthemixturebeginstosticktothebottomofthepan,addacoupleoftablespoonsofwater,takingcarenottoaddtoomuchasthefinaldishshouldbedry.4Removethelidandcookoverahighheatuntilalltheliquidhasevaporated.5Heatanotherpanoverahighheatandaddthecoconutoil.Frythecurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter)andtipintheremainingshallotsoronions.Cookfor7–8minutesuntilsoft,thenaddthecookedbeef.6Seasontotaste,sprinkleinthegarammasalaandpepper,cookforafurtherfewminutestoblendandservehotwithrice,rotisorpaalaada.

PorkWithGaanjTenga

[CHILLIPORKWITHBAMBOOSHOOTS]

Assaminthenorth-easteatsvariousmeatssuchasporkor‘gahori’.Itiseatenonfestivedays,asmeatcanbeexpensiveandisconsideredspecial.Itissometimescombinedwithexoticingredientssuchasbambooshootsorfiddleheadfernshootscalled‘dhekia’.Thesearetheunfurledfrondsofayoungfernandlookliketightgreencoils.Ifleftontheplant,theyeventuallyopenintoafrond.Fiddleheadsareagoodsourceofomega3and6fattyacidsandarehighinfibre.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING1hour

6driedredchillies5garliccloves,chopped2.5cmpieceoffreshrootginger,scrapedandchopped2

tablespoonslard2onions,thinlysliced800gporkshoulderonthebone,cubed150gfreshbambooshoot,

grated,ora225gcanofbambooshootsinwater,drainedahandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped,togarnishsalt

1Soaktheredchilliesinboilingwaterfor15minutes.Transferthesoftenedchilliestoapestleandmortarandaddthegarlicandginger.Sprinkleinsomesaltandacoupleoftablespoonsofthechillisoakingliquid.Crushtoapaste.2Heatthelardinalargefryingpanoverahighheat,addtheonionsandcookfor7–8minutesuntilbrownandsoft.3Addtheporkandcookoverahighheatfor3–4minutestosealandbrownit,thenaddthepastefromthemortarandseasonwithsalt.Ifusingfreshbambooshoots,addthemnow.Ifusingtinnedones,addthemaftertheporkhascooked.Pourinenoughwatertojustcoverthepork,bringtotheboil,thenreducetheheatandcookfor50minutes,covered,oruntilthemeatistender.Seasontotaste

andservehot,sprinkledwiththecoriander.

PorkVindaloo

[GOANPORKCURRY]

ThisisoneofthemostpopularcurriesonIndianrestaurantmenustheworldover.However,notallIndiansknowavindalooasitisaregionalGoancurryinfluencedbythePortuguese,whomadeitwith‘vinho’orwineand‘alho’orgarlic.Thewinewasreplacedwithcoconutvinegar,makingthisaspicy,tangycurrythatiseatenwithriceorsavourycakescalled‘sannas’.IntheWest,whereIndiantakeawaycurriesareclassifiedonlybyheat,avindaloosignifiesaspicyhotdishsuitableforthebrave.ButinfactatraditionalGoanvindalooneedstobeonlyashotasthecookthinksitshouldbe.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,plus20minutessoakingtimeCOOKING1hour

15driedredKashmirichillies(or6–7foramildercurry),brokeninhalfandseedsshakenout5garliccloves,chopped2.5cmpieceoffreshrootginger,scrapedandchopped3tablespoonscoconutorwhitevinegar3cloves

2teaspoonscuminseeds1smallcinnamonstick½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper2onions,sliced

2tablespoonsvegetableoil800gbonelesspork,cubedsaltboiledriceorAppams,toserve

1Soakthechillies,garlicandgingerinthevinegarwith½teaspoonofsaltfor20minutes.Heatafryingpanoverahighheat,addthecloves,cuminseeds,cinnamonandpepperanddry-toastfor40seconds,thenaddthesetothesoakingchillies.Tiptheonionsandthechillimixtureintoablenderandblitztoapurée,addingalittlewatertohelpturntheblades.Thisisthevindaloomasala.2Heattheoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheat,addtheporkandfryfor3–4minutestoseal,thentipinthevindaloomasalafromtheblender.Stirtoblendandcoatthepork.Rinseouttheblenderwithalittlewaterandaddthistothepork.Bringtotheboilthenreducetheheattomedium,coverandcookfor40minutes,untiltheporkistender.Seasontotasteandservehotwithplainriceor

appams.

MurghMakhaniMurghKaKormaMurghJalfreziMurghiNaFarchaChickenChettinadKoshaMurgirMangshoMurghAchariSeyalMurghChickenCafrealKarahiMurghKofteXacutiKozhiKuzhambuPatharePrabhuChickenMasalaKuttanadanTharavuRoastKodiKurmaKoriGassiPalakMurghKolhapuriPandhraRassaNadanKozhiIshtu

THEDOMESTICATEDCHICKENTHATWEEATTODAYISADESCENDANTOFTHEINDIANJUNGLEFOWL.TODAY,INDIANSEATMORECHICKENTHANEVERBEFORE.

ReligiousfoodtaboosinIndiameanthatbeefandporkarenotwidelyeaten.Goatandlambareexpensiveandconsideredheavyandunhealthyforregularconsumption,andAyurvedicnutritionconsidersredmeat‘heating’andacid-forminginthedigestivesystem.Chickenisthemostpopular‘non-vegetarian’foodenjoyedbyIndians,whocookitinmanyways–increamycurries,smokedandgrilled,insoupsorinrichspicedbiryanis.

ThedomesticatedchickenthatweeattodayisadescendantoftheIndianjunglefowl.Today,Indianseatmorechickenthaneverbefore–youngpeopletraveltonewplaces,worldcuisinesareofferedinrestaurantsandchickenisconsideredhealthyasithaslesssaturatedfatthanmostredmeat.Therearetwopopularvarietiesofchicken–the‘free-run’onesonsmallholdingsandthe‘broilers’rearedoncommercialpoultryfarms.

Free-runchickensarebredinvillagebackyardsandfedonkitchenscraps.Theyaremostoftenkilledforhouseholduse.Broilersarecutintopiecesandfrozenorsoldbaggedincityshops.Indiancookspreferthemeatier,moreflavourfulfree-runchicken,butthefattierbroilersareconsideredmorehygienic.Non-vegetarianfamilieslivinginvillagesoftenhaveafewchickensrunningaroundandsometimespeoplelivingontheoutskirtsofbigcitiesrearthemtosellatpoultrymarketsinthecity.

ThemostcommonmethodofbuyingchickeninIndiaistogotothechickenshop,whichwillhavemanybirdsinacoop.Youchoosetheoneyouwantanditisweighedandkilledthereandthen.Thedeadbirdisde-featheredandcutintopiecesforyou.Youpayforthewhole,livebird.Thisprocessdoesnotallowforbuyingjustthebreastorthelegs,socookswillsometimesmaketwodishesoutofonebird,althoughcurryisthemostpopularwayofeatingallcutsofchicken.Indiancooksdon’ttypicallybuyspecificcutsofchicken,asthewholebirdisusedincurries.Iftheydo–forspecificdishessuchaspan-friedkebabs–theyusechickenlegs,wingsorbreast.

AlthoughduckmeatisnotpopularalloverIndia,thesouthIndiannative

KuttanadduckisrearedforitstastymeatandeateninKerala,TamilNaduandAndhraPradesh.Duckrearingandfarmingisencouragedbysomestategovernments,andsouthIndianvarietieswereintroducedintoAssamwhenthelowproductionofeggsbythelocalduck‘Pati’couldnotmatchdemand.

GamebirdssuchaspheasantandquailarehuntedinIndianforestsbutrarelyseenonrestaurantmenusorincitykitchens.TheerstwhileMaharajasofIndiawereknownfortheirshootsandtheirrecipesincluderoastsofpeacock,blackpartridgeandjunglefowl.Today,peacock,whichisthenationalbird,isaprotectedspeciesundertheWildlifeProtectionActof1972anditshuntingispunishablebylaw.However,junglestribesandvillagerswholiveontheoutskirtsofforestsstillhuntthisbeautifulbirdasthemeatcommandsagoodprice.

TIPSFORPREPARINGANDCOOKINGCHICKEN1Removetheskin.MostIndianrecipesareforskinlesschickenasIndianspreferleanmeatandpoultryanddislikethetextureofanimalfat.2Sealthemeatratherthanbrownitwhencooking.Thishelpstolockinthejuicesbutdoesnotcreateathickbarrierthatpreventsspicesfromflavouringtheflesh.3Cookthechickenuntilitiswhitethroughout.Anypinkfleshmeansthatitneedsmorecookingtimeandisunsafetoeat.Chickenonthebonewilltakelongertocookthanbonelesschicken.

MurghMakhani

[BUTTERYCHICKENCURRY]

ThisisaverypopularnorthIndianrestaurantdish.TheoriginalrecipewascreatedbytheMotiMahalrestaurantinNewDelhianditisstillatop-seller.Marinatedchickenisusuallycookedinthetandoor,thenfoldedintoabutteryor‘makhani’sauce.Iuseamixtureofoilandbuttersothatthebutterdoesnotburnwhenheated.Youcanusepaneerinsteadofchickenforavegetarianversion.Thesauceshouldbespicy,sweetandtangy,withthefragranceofbutterandherbs.

Serves4PREPARATION→20minutes,plus1hourmarinatingtimeorovernightifpossibleCOOKING30minutes

800gskinlesschickenbreast,cutinto2.5cmcubesboiledriceorLacchaParatha,toserveForthemarinade

50gnaturalyogurt1teaspoonredKashmirichillipowder1tablespoonginger-garlicpaste2tablespoonslemonjuice½teaspoongarammasalasaltForthemakhanisauce2tablespoonssaltedbutter1tablespoonvegetableoil½teaspoondriedfenugreekleaves(kasoorimethi),plusextratoserve1freshgreenchilli,

finelychopped1tablespoonginger-garlicpaste150gtomatopurée½teaspoonKashmiriredchillipowder½teaspoongarammasala2tablespoonshoney100mlsinglecream,plusextratoserve

1Combinethemarinadeingredientsinabowlandaddthecubedchicken.Coverandleavetomarinateinthefridgeforatleastfor1hourorovernightifpossible.

2Preheattheovento200°C/gasmark6.Transferthechickenandmarinadetoanovenproofdishandbakefor10–15minutesuntiltenderandcookedthrough.3Forthemakhanisauce,heatthebutterandoilinasaucepanoverahighheatandaddthekasoorimethiandgreenchilli.Stirintheginger-garlicpaste,cookforaminuteorso,thenaddthetomatopuréeandstirtoblendforacoupleofminutes.4Mixinthechillipowder,garammasalaandhoney,andseasonwithsalt.Finishwiththecream,thenaddenoughwatertogivethesauceapouringconsistency.5Addthecookedchickentothesauce.Servewithriceorlacchaparatha,withaswirlofsinglecreamandasprinklingofkasoorimethi.

MurghKaKorma

[CREAMYCHICKENCURRY]

Theword‘korma’comesfromtheTurkish‘kavurma’,whichmeans‘braisedmeat’.Thewordisvariouslyspeltas‘quorma’or‘qorma’andisoftenthickenedwithnutsandcream.Inthesouth,akurmaissimilarbuthascoconutinthecurrysauce.InIndiantakeawaysintheWest,akormaisapopulardishamongstthosewhodonotenjoychillies,asithascometomeanapale,sweetcurrythatisclassifiedasmild.However,somekormasinIndia,suchastheKashmiri‘MarchwanganKorma’,madewithmuttonandlotsofchilli,canbesearinglyhot.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING35minutes

1largeonion,sliced1freshgreenchilli,chopped50gunsaltedcashewnuts3tablespoonsvegetableoil2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste800gskinlesschickenbreast,cubed1teaspoongroundcoriander1teaspoongroundcumin½teaspoongarammasala,plusextratoserve½teaspoongroundturmeric2tablespoonssinglecream(optional)saltboiledrice,RotisorParathas,toserve

1Puttheonion,chilliandcashewnutsinapanwithalittlewaterandbringtotheboil.Simmerforabout10minutes,untiltheonionisverysoft,thentransfertoablenderandblitztoapaste,addingwaterasnecessarytoturntheblades.Set

aside.2Heattheoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheat,thenaddtheginger-garlicpaste,followedbythechicken,andfryuntilsealed.3Seasonwithsaltandstirinthegroundspices,thenaddtheonionpurée.Rinseouttheblenderwithafewtablespoonsofwaterandaddthistothepan.Cookfor12–15minutesuntilthechickenistenderandcookedthrough.4Stirinthecream,ifusing,andheatthrough.Seasontotaste,sprinklewithapinchofgarammasalaandservehotwithrice,rotisorparathas.

MurghJalfrezi

[CHICKENCURRYWITHPEPPERS]

Anotherrestaurantcurry,thishasdistinctchunksofonion,pepperandtomatoesinit.Restaurantcurrieshavespecificnameslike‘jalfrezi’.Athomethiswouldsimplybecalledachickencurry,andpepperswouldbeaddedasavariation.ItissaidtobeacreationoftheRaj,whereleftovermeatwasstirredintoaspicedhotsauce,suchastheonehere,called‘jhal’inBengali.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING45minutes

3tablespoonsvegetableoil2largeonions,onethinlysliced,theothercutintolargechunks1tablespoonginger-garlicpaste

2teaspoonstomatopurée1teaspooncuminseeds600gskinlesschickenbreast,cubed1largegreenpepper,deseededandthinlysliced½

teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder½teaspoongroundcoriander1ripetomato,sliced

asmallhandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped,togarnishsaltboiledriceorRotis,toserve

1Heat2tablespoonsoftheoilinaheavy-basedfryingpanoverahighheatandfrytheslicedonionfor7–8minutesuntilsoft.Addtheginger-garlicpasteandthetomatopuréeandfryforafurther3–4minutesuntilwellblended.Removefromtheheat,leavetocoolslightly,thentransfertoablenderandblitzuntilsmooth,addingenoughwatertoturnthebladesandmakeathickcurrypaste.Setaside.2Heattheremainingoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheatandfrythecuminseedsuntiltheydarkenslightly,thenaddthechickenandfryuntilsealed.Addthegreenpepperandchunksofonion,sprinkleinthegroundspices,stirinthecurrypasteandseasonwithsalt.Pourinabout100mlwatertomakeathicksauceconsistencyandcookoveramediumheatfor12–15minutes,untilthechickeniscookedthrough.

3Addthetomatoandcookforacoupleofminutesuntilsoftbutnotmushy,thenremovefromtheheat.Seasontotaste,garnishwiththecorianderandservehotwithriceorrotis.

MurghiNaFarcha

[PARSI-STYLEFRIEDCHICKEN]

Iremembereatingthiscrisp,deliciouschickenatParsiweddingsasachild.ItisservedatParsicelebrations,asbeingdeep-fried,itisnotcookedveryoftenathome.Also,itisinterestingthatinIndiamanyfriedfoodssuchasthisoneareservedwithtomatoketchup,alegacyoftheRaj.Indianslovethesweet,tangyflavourofketchupandseveralvarietiesareavailablewithaddedspicessuchascuminorchilli.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,plus1hourmarinatingtimeorovernightifpossibleCOOKING35minutes

1teaspoongarammasala2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongroundcumin1teaspoongroundcoriander1teaspoongroundturmeric2tablespoonslemonjuice4chickenlegs,skinnedandhalvedatthejointvegetableoil,fordeep-fryingplainflour,for

dusting3largeeggs,beatensaltandfreshlygroundblackpeppertomatoketchup,toserve

1Combinethegarammasala,ginger-garlicpaste,chillipowder,cumin,coriander,turmeric,lemonjuiceandsaltandpeppertoseasoninalargebowl.2Piercethechickenlegs,addthemtothebowlandcoattheminthemarinade,coverandleavetomarinateinthefridgeforatleast1hourorovernightifpossible.3Heatenoughoilinawokorkarahitodeep-frythechickeninasinglelayer.Whenveryhot,reducetheheatslightly.Placesomeflourinashallowbowlandthebeateneggsinanothershallowbowl,thendipeachpieceofmarinatedchickenintotheflourthenthebeateneggandlowercarefullyintothehotoil.

(Youmayhavetodothisinbatches.)Cookoveramediumheatfor8–9minutesuntilgoldenbrown,spooningthehotoiloverthechickentocookitevenly.Liftoutwithaslottedspoonandcheckifitiscookedthroughbycuttingintothemeatnearthebone–themeatshouldbewhite.Drainonkitchenpaper.Cooktheremainingchickeninthesamewayandservehotwithtomatoketchup.

ChickenChettinad

[SPICYSOUTHINDIANCHICKENCURRY]

TheveryspicyfoodofChettinad,aregioninTamilNadu,issuitedtothedry,hotlandandingredientsareoftencookedinsesameoil,whichaddsauniqueflavour.Itisacuisineofrichmeatandchickencurriesflavouredwitharomaticspicessuchasstaraniseandcinnamon.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING25minutes

4driedredchillies,brokeninhalf½teaspoonblackpeppercorns,crushed1teaspoonaniseed

4cloves3greencardamompods,seedsremovedandhusksdiscarded½teaspoongroundcinnamon

2tablespoonssunflowerorsesameoil8–10freshor15driedcurryleaves3staranise2greenchillies,finelydiced2onions,chopped1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste1tomato,chopped½teaspoongroundturmeric800gboneless,skinlesschickenthighs,cutinto2.5cmpiecesa

handfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped,togarnishsaltboiledrice,RotisorDosas,toserve

1Heatafryingpanoverahighheat,addthechillies,crushedpeppercorns,aniseed,clovesandcardamomseedsanddry-toastuntiltheybegintodarkenanddevelopanaroma.Removefromtheheatandcrushtoapowderinapestleandmortarorspicemillthenmixinthecinnamon.Setaside.2Heattheoilinthefryingpanoverahighheatanddropinthecurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter),staranise,chilliesandonions.Stir-fryfor7–8minutesuntiltheonionsaresoft,thentipintheginger-garlicpasteandstir,addthetomatoandseasonwithsalt.Cookfor3–4minutesuntilwellblended.3Addthegroundspicesandturmeric,thenstirinthechickenandcookuntilsealedonallsides.

4Addafewtablespoonsofwaterandcookfor15–20minutesuntilthechickeniscooked.Seasontotaste,sprinklewiththecorianderandservehotwithrice,rotisordosas.

KoshaMurgirMangsho

[BENGALICHICKENCURRY]

WhenIwasyoung,mymotheremployedaBengalicookwhomadethiscurryonhisfirstdayinourkitchen.Iwasquiteexcitedaboutthis‘new’recipeandloveditatfirstbiteforitsrichtomatosauce.Foodlinkedtomemoriesisalwaysspecialanditremainsoneofmyfavouritecurries.Itiscookedwithoutwatermakingitquiterichandoily,butthat’swhyitissodelicious!

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING45minutes

3tablespoonsmustardorvegetableoil2bayleaves4cloves4greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded3largeonions,finelydiced2

teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste2freshgreenchillies,slitlengthways3tomatoes,finelychopped1teaspoonground

turmeric1teaspoongroundcumin1teaspoongroundcoriander½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder800gchickenthighs

onthebone,skinnedandfleshcutinto4cmpiecessaltahandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped,togarnishboiledriceorPooris,toserve

1Heattheoilinafryingpantosmokingpointthenreducetheheat.Addthewholespicesandthecrushedcardamomseeds.Whentheysizzleanddarken,addtheonionsandfryfor8–10minutesuntiltheyareverysoft.2Stirtheginger-garlicpasteandchilliesintotheonionsandcookfor1minute,thentipinthetomatoesandcookfor3–4minutesuntiltheysoften.3Addthegroundspices,stirafewtimes,thenaddthechickenandsalttoseason.Cookoverahighheatfor3–4minutestoseal,thenreducetheheatandsimmerfor20minutesuntilthechickenistenderandcookedthrough.Keepspooningthesauceoverthechickenfromtimetotime,toensureitcooksevenly.Seasontotaste,sprinklewithcorianderandservehotwithriceorpooris.

MurghAchari

[CHICKENINPICKLINGSPICES]

‘Achaar’inHindimeans‘pickle’andthisnorthIndiancurryusestraditionalpicklingspicessuchasfennelandmustardforflavourandheat.Manyversionsexistbutyoucanuseasmanyorasfewchilliesasyoulike.Ipreferthiscurrytobefragrantratherthanhotandit’sbestenjoyedwitharotiornaantomopupthetangysauce.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING45minutes

2tablespoonssunflowerormustardoil1teaspoonblackmustardseeds1teaspooncuminseeds

1teaspoonnigellaseeds1teaspoonfennelseeds½teaspoonfenugreekseeds2largeonions,finelydiced2teaspoonginger-garlicpaste2tablespoonstomatopurée800gboneless,skinlesschickenthighs1teaspoonground

turmeric½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongarammasala3tablespoonsfull-fatyogurtgoodsqueezeoflemonjuicesaltboiledrice,Rotis,PoorisorNaans,toserve

1Heattheoilinafryingpanoverahighheatandaddthewholespices.Whentheypop,sizzleanddarken,addtheonions.Fryfor8–10minutesuntilverysoft,thenstirintheginger-garlicpasteandtomatopurée.Cookforacoupleofminutes.2Addthechickenandfrytoseal,thenreducetheheattopreventthemixturefromstickingtothebottomofthepan.Sprinkleinthegroundspices,stirafewtimestocoatthechickenandpourin100mlwater.Seasonwithsalt,coverandcookfor20–25minutesuntilthechickeniscookedthrough,addingmorewaterifnecessarytostopthecurryfromdryingout.3Foldintheyogurtandlemonjuice,seasontotaste,simmerforacoupleofminutesthenservehotwithrice,rotis,poorisornaans.

SeyalMurgh

[SINDHI-STYLECHICKENCURRY]

IgrewupinMumbaiamongstSindhifamilyfriends.FoodwouldbeexchangedonSundays–theirkidslovedthecoconut-basedcurriesofMaharashtriancooking–andIbecamefamiliarwithclassicssuchSindhiKadhi,avegetablecurrywithgramflour,and‘Saibhaji’,amixedgreenvegetablesidedishand,manyyearslater,stillcookthemformychildren.TheSindhis,originallyfromPakistan,areHindusorSikhswhomovedtoIndiaduringthePartitionof1947.‘Seyal’referstoadishcookedwithverylittlewater.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING45minutes

2tablespoonsvegetableoil2onions,finelydiced2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste2freshgreenchillies,dicedasmallhandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,finelychopped3tomatoes,halvedandcutsides

grated(skindiscarded)1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongroundcoriander1teaspoongarammasala800gboneless,skinlesschickenthighs3tablespoonsfull-fatyogurt3greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded,togarnishsaltRotisorboiledrice,toserve

1Heattheoilinafryingpanoverahighheat,addtheonionsandfryfor8–10minutesuntilverysoft,goldenandcaramelised.Stirintheginger-garlicpaste,greenchilliesandfreshcorianderandcookfor2minutes,thentipinthegratedtomatoesandcookfor2–3minutesuntilsoftandwellblended.2Addthegroundspicesandcookfor5–6minutesuntiltheoilseparates.Thiswillhappenfasterifyoucoverthepan.3Addthechickenthighsandseasonwithsalt.Cookoverahighheattoseal,then

reducetheheattomedium.Pourintheyogurt,coverandcookfor15–20minutesuntilthechickeniscookedthrough.Seasontotasteandservehot,sprinkledwiththecrushedcardamom,alongsiderotisorrice.

ChickenCafreal

[GOANGREENCHICKEN]

IntroducedtoGoabythePortuguese,whohadtheirstrongholdtherefrom1510AD,thisisalwaysmadewithchickenlegs,issemi-drytodryandcanbeeatenwithriceorbread.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,plus1hourmarinatingtimeorovernightifpossibleCOOKING35minutes

1teaspooncuminseeds1smallcinnamonstick1teaspooncorianderseeds10blackpeppercorns1largebunchoffreshcorianderleaves2.5cmpieceoffreshrootginger,scrapedand

chopped5garliccloves,chopped2freshgreenchillies,chopped2tablespoonswhitewinevinegar1teaspoonground

turmeric4chickenlegs,skinnedandhalvedatthejoint2tablespoonsvegetableoil1onion,thinlysliced

saltlimewedges,toserveboiledriceorbreads,toserve(optional)

1Heatasmallfryingpanoverahighheat,addthecuminseeds,cinnamonstick,corianderseedsandpeppercornsanddry-toastuntiltheystarttodarkenandbecomefragrant.Removefromtheheatandcrushtoapowderinapestleandmortarorspicemill.2Putthecorianderleaves,ginger,garlic,chilliesandvinegarinablenderwithenoughwatertoturntheblades.Blitztoapurée,seasonwithsaltandaddtheturmeric.Mixinthecrushedspices.Thisisthecafrealmasala.3Piercethechickenlegsandplacetheminacontainerwiththecafrealmasala,turningthemtocoat,andmarinateinthefridgeforatleast1hourorovernightifpossible.4Heattheoilinapanoverahighheatandfrytheonionfor6–7minutesuntil

soft,thenaddthechickenandfrytoseal.5Addenoughwatertocoatthebaseofthepan,coverandcookoveramediumheatfor30minutes,addingwaterasnecessary.Bythetimethechickeniscookedthrough,thewatershouldhaveevaporated.Seasontotaste,andservehotwiththelimewedges,andriceorbread,ifyoulike.

MASTERCLASS

METHIMURGH–ChickenCurrywithFenugreek

Thewarm,earthytasteoffenugreekcomplementsthecreaminessofchickeninthisrecipe,whichismadeallovernorthIndia.Ihaveusedbothfreshanddriedfenugreekleavesfordepthandintensity.Fenugreekleavescantastequitebitteriftheyarenotcookedforlongenough,whichiswhyinmostrecipes,suchasthisone,theyareaddedtowardsthebeginning.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING45minutes

YOUWILLNEED:3tablespoonsvegetableoil2largeonions,sliced2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste2freshgreenchillies,minced1teaspoondriedfenugreekleaves(kasoorimethi)4

chickenlegs,skinnedandhalvedatthejoint1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongroundcoriander1teaspoongroundcumin

1teaspoongarammasala1tablespoontomatopurée1bunchoffreshfenugreekleaves,cleanedandchopped(discardlargestems,retain

thefineones)2tablespoonsfull-fatyogurtsaltRotisorParathas,toserve

1Heathalftheoilinaheavy-basedfryingpanoverahighheat,addtheonionsandfryfor8–10minutesuntilverysoftandgolden,thentipintheginger-garlicpasteandgreenchilliesandfryforaminute.Removefromtheheat,transfertoablenderandblitztoapastewithenoughwatertoturntheblades.Thisisthecurrypaste.

2Heattheremainingoilinaheavy-basedpanoverahighheat.Addthedriedfenugreek,cookforafewsecondsthenaddthechickenandfryuntilsealed.

3Tipinthegroundspicesandtomatopurée,thenaddthefreshfenugreekandfryfor5–6minutesuntilwilted.Pourinthecurrypaste.Rinseouttheblenderwithalittlewaterandaddthewatertothepan.Addtheyogurtandseasonwithsalt.Cookfor12–15minutes,untilthechickenistenderandcookedthroughandthefenugreekhascompletelysoftened.Seasontotasteandservehotwithrotisorparathas.

KarahiMurghKofte

[CHICKENMEATBALLSINATOMATOCURRY]

Meatballsaretraditionallyservedwithadipasacocktailsnack,orstirredintocurriesastheyarehere.Youcanbaketheminanovenat200°C/gasmark6for10minutesifservingthemasasnack.A‘karahi’literallyjustmeansthatthedishhasbeencookedina‘karahi’dish!

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING30minutes

600gchickenmince1freshgreenchilli,veryfinelydiced2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste2tablespoonsvegetableoil2onions,finelydiced1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongroundcoriander1teaspoongroundcumin1teaspoongarammasala½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder2tablespoonstomatopurée,½canoftinned

choppedtomatoesor4freshtomatoes,chopped½teaspooncastersugarasmallhandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped,togarnish1.5cmpieceoffreshroot

ginger,scrapedandjuliennedsaltRotisorboiledrice,toserve

1Combinethechickenminceinabowlwiththegreenchilli,halftheginger-garlicpasteandseasonwithsalt.Formintosmallballsorkoftaseachthesizeofalargecherry.Setaside.2Heattheoilinafryingpanoverahighheat,addtheonionsandfryfor8–10minutesuntilverysoftandgolden.Stirintheremainingginger-garlicpasteandthegroundspices.Cookforafewminutes,addingasplashofwatertohelpthespicescookwithoutburning,thenaddthetomatopurée,tinnedtomatoesorfreshtomatoesandsugar.Pourin200mlwater,seasonwithsaltandbringtotheboil.Slipinthekoftasandbringthecurrybacktotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmerfor10–15minutesuntilthemeatballsarecookedthroughandthesaucehasthickenedslightly.3Seasontotasteandservehot,sprinkledwiththecorianderandjulienned

ginger,alongsidericeorrotis.

Xacuti

[GOANCOCONUTCHICKENCURRY]

Pronounced‘shakooti’,thisPortuguese-inspiredcurryisalsocalled‘sagoti’,andcanbemadewithprawnsormeat.Itisathickcurrymadeashotormildasthecooklikesit,andisapartofthelocalChristiancuisinealloverGoa.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING1hour

2tablespoonsvegetableoil1smallcinnamonstick10blackpeppercorns5driedredKashmirichillies,brokeninhalfandseedsshakenout1tablespooncoriander

seeds1teaspoonfennelseeds1teaspoonwhitepoppyseeds2onions,sliced2.5cmpieceoffreshrootginger,scrapedandchopped7garliccloves,chopped4

tablespoonsfreshgratedcoconut,ordesiccatedcoconutsoakedfor20minutesinwarmwater800gchickenlegs,skinnedandhalvedatthejoint1teaspoongroundturmeric3tomatoes,finelychoppedsalt

fewshavingsofnutmeg,toserve

1Heathalftheoilinafryingpanoverahighheatandaddalltheingredientsfromthecinnamontothepoppyseeds.Assoonastheystarttosizzle,tipintheonionsandfryfor7–8minutesuntilverysoftandgolden,thenaddthegingerandgarlicandfryforaminuteorso.2Stirinthecoconutandfryuntiltoastedandbrown,stirringcontinuouslytopreventitfromscorching.Tipthismixtureintoablenderandaddenoughwatertojustcoverit.Blitztoafinepuréeandsetaside.3Heattheremainingoilinthesamefryingpan(aftergivingitawipe)overahighheat,addthechickenpiecesandfryuntilsealedandlightbrown.Sprinkleinsalttoseasonandtheturmericandcookforaminuteorso,thenpourinthepuréefromtheblenderandrinsetheblenderoutwithalittlewater.Pourthisinaswell.Addthetomatoes,bringtotheboilthenreducetheheatandsimmerfor15–20minutesoruntilthechickeniscookedthrough.Seasontotasteandservehot

withafewshavingsofnutmeg.

KozhiKuzhambu

[MADURAICHICKENCURRY]

ThiscurrycomesfromtheMadurairegionofTamilNaduandiscookedbytheNaidusandReddiyarswholivethere.Theirspicy,fragrantcuisineissofamousthatithasgivenrisetospecialityrestaurantsthatarerenownedfortheirmeatandchickencurriesandbiryani.Thesearehighlyspicedwithpepperandgarammasalayetarequitelightandnotoily,unlikemanyofthecurriesfoundinIndianrestaurantsallovertheworld.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING1hour

1teaspooncorianderseeds4driedredKashmirichillies,brokeninhalfandseedsshakenout10blackpeppercorns1teaspoonuncookedrice1teaspoonfennelseeds1tablespoonwhitepoppyseeds1tablespoonsplitgramlentils(chanadal)2tablespoonsdesiccatedcoconut2tablespoons

sesameorvegetableoil1teaspoonblackorbrownmustardseeds2onions,finelydiced7–8freshor10driedcurryleaves2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste2tomatoes,chopped800gchickenlegs,skinnedandhalvedatthejoint1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongarammasalaasmallhandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped,togarnishsaltboiledrice,toserve

1Heatasmallfryingpanoverahighheat,addthecorianderseeds,chillies,peppercorns,rice,fennelseeds,poppyseeds,chanadalandcoconutanddry-toastfor4–5minutesuntilgoldenandfragrant,stirringtoavoidthemscorching.Removefromtheheat,tipintoapestleandmortarorspicemillandcrushtoapowder.Setaside.2Heattheoilinaheavy-basedpanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseeds.Whentheystarttopop,addtheonionsandfryfor7–8minutesuntilverysoft.3Addthecurryleavesandginger-garlicpaste.(Standbackfromthepanifusing

freshleaves,astheywillsplutter.)4Stirinthechoppedtomatoesandcookforacoupleofminutesuntilsoft,thenaddthechickenlegstothepanandcookfor3–4minutesuntilsealed.Sprinkleinthegroundspices,includingthegroundspicemix,andseasonwithsalt.5Pourin200mlwaterandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheat,coverandsimmerfor25–30minutesuntilthechickeniscookedthrough.Seasontotaste,sprinklewiththecorianderandservehotwithrice.

PatharePrabhuChickenMasala

[CHICKENCURRYWITHCREAMANDSPICES]

ThePatharePrabhucommunityofMumbaiaregreatphilanthropistsandhighlyeducated.TheyworkedcloselywiththeBritishduringtheRajandadoptedmanyoftheircustoms,suchasdressandspeech.Thewomenstartedwearingsareeblouses,influencedbytheEuropean‘bonbon’sleeves,andthemenworewaistcoats.ManywereeducatedinEnglishandtookuplawandadministration.Theircuisineisadelicatemixofstyles,richandvariedandwithsubtleforeigninfluences,suchastheuseofbrothsandstocksratherthantheheavycurrybasesfoundovermostofIndia.Theymakeaspecialcurrypowdercalled‘parbhisambhar’whichisaddedtomanycurriesforadelicateyetfragranteffect.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,plus2hoursmarinatingtimeorovernightifpossibleCOOKING45minutes

2teaspoonsgroundturmeric2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste3tablespoonsfull-fatyogurt800gchickenlegs,skinnedandhalvedatthejoint2

tablespoonsvegetableoil2onions,sliced2tomatoes,chopped½teaspoonmedium-hotchillipowder1teaspoongroundcoriander2teaspoonsparbhi

sambharpowderorgarammasala1teaspooncastersugar2tablespoonssinglecreamasmallhandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped,togarnishsaltRotisorboiledrice,toserve

1Combinehalftheturmeric,halftheginger-garlicpaste,yogurtandsalttoseasoninabowl.Addthechicken,coatitinthismixture,coverandmarinateinthefridgefor2hoursorovernightifpossible.2Heathalftheoilinapanoverahighheat,addtheonionsandfryfor8–10minutesuntilverysoftandgolden.Addtheremainingginger-garlicpasteand

thetomatoes.Fryuntilsoft,thenremovefromtheheat,tipthemixtureintoablender,addenoughwatertocoverandblitztoapurée.Thisisthemasalapaste.3Heattheremainingoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheat.Liftthechickenoutofthemarinadeandaddittothepan.(Themarinadewillgoinabitlater.)Fryfor4–5minutestoseal.4Sprinkleinthegroundspicesandtheremainingturmericandstirafewtimes,thenpourinthemasalapaste.Rinsetheblenderwithafewtablespoonsofwaterandpourthisin.Addtheremainingmarinadetothepan,seasonwithsalt(nottoomuchasthechickenhasalreadybeenseasoned),sprinkleinthesugarandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmerfor25–30minutesuntilthechickenistenderandcookedthrough.Seasontotaste,stirinthecreamandservehot,sprinkledwiththecoriander,alongsiderotisorrice.

KuttanadanTharavuRoast

[PEPPERYKERALADUCK]

Duckmeatiseateninsomesouthernandeasternstates,suchasKeralaandAssam,wheregovernmentinitiativeshaveencouragedtherearingofthesebirds.

Serves4PREPARATION→Preparationtime:15minutes,plus30minutesmarinatingtimeCOOKING1hour15minutes

4shallots,chopped2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder3teaspoonsgroundcoriander1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongarammasala1teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper3greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusks

discarded1teaspoongroundcinnamon2tablespoonsmaltvinegar800gducklegs,halvedatthejoint(leavetheskinonoroffasperyourpreference)2

tablespoonssunflowerorcoconutoil2onions,thinlysliced6–7freshor10driedcurryleavessaltAppamsorPaalaada,toserve

1Putalltheingredientsfromtheshallotstothevinegarinablenderandblitztoapurée,addingenoughwatertoturntheblades.Seasonwithsaltandtransfertoabowl.Rinseouttheblenderwith100mlwaterandsetthisasideseparately.2Rubhalfofthecurrypasteontotheducklegsandsetthemasidetomarinatefor30minutes.3Heattheoilinasaucepanoverahighheat,addtheonionsandfryfor8–10minutesuntilverysoft.Addthecurryleavesandfryfor1minute,thenaddthemarinatedducklegstothepanandcookoverahighheatfor5–6minutestosealandbrownthemeat.4Stirintheremainingcurrypasteandpourinthereservedwaterfromthe

blender.Bringthecurrytotheboil,cover,reducetheheatandsimmerfor40–50minutesuntiltheduckistenderandthesauceisthick,addingasplashofwaterfromtimetotimeifthecurrydriesup.Thefinaldishshouldhaveathicksaucecoatingtheduckratherthanacurrysauce.Seasontotasteandservehotwithappamsorpaalaada.

KodiKurma

[ANDHRA-STYLECURRYWITHPOPPYSEEDS]

Andhracookingistypicallyhot,especiallyintheregionnearGunturwhichgrowsmostofthechilliesthatIndiaexportsaroundtheworld.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING45minutes

2tablespoonswhitepoppyseeds3tablespoonsgratedfreshcoconut,ordesiccatedcoconutsoakedinhotwaterfor20minutes1tablespoonhalvedcashewnuts2tablespoonsvegetableoil2staranise

2bayleaves3cloves1smallcinnamonstick7–8freshor10driedcurryleaves2largeonions,finelydiced2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste800gboneless,skinlesschickenthighs,cutinto4cmpieces1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongarammasala2tomatoes,choppedasmallhandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped,togarnishsaltboiledrice,toserve

1Heatasmallfryingpanoverahighheat,addthepoppyseeds,coconutandcashewsanddry-toastuntiltheyturngolden,stirringfrequently.Transfertoablenderwithenoughwatertojustcoverandblitztoafinepurée.Setaside.2Heattheoilinaheavy-basedpanoverahighheat,addthewholespicesandfryforaminuteorsountiltheysizzle,thentipinthecurryleavesandonions.Fryfor8–10minutesuntiltheonionsareverysoftandgolden.3Stirintheginger-garlicpastethenaddthechicken.Cookoverahighheatfor4–5minutestoseal.4Mixinthegroundspices.After1minute,addthetomatoes.Whenthetomatoeshavesoftened,pourinthepuréefromtheblender.Rinsetheblenderwithabout100mlwaterandpourthisinaswell.Seasonwithsalt.Bringtotheboilthenreducetheheatandsimmerfor25minutesorsountilthechickenis

cookedthroughandtender.Sprinklewithcorianderandservehotwithrice.

KoriGassi

[SPICYCHICKENANDCOCONUTCURRY]

ThisisaspecialityoftheTulu-speakingBuntcommunityofMangaloreinKarnataka.Theircuisineisbasedonspicessuchaspepperandgarammasala,andcoconut–fresh,desiccatedorasmilk.ManysouthIndianrestaurantsacrossIndiaareownedbypeopleoriginatingfromthisregionandthiscurryhasbecomefamousbyfeaturingonsomanyoftheirrestaurantmenus.ItisaspicycurrythatiseatenwithlightpancakescalledNeerDosaorwithrice.Isometimesmakeavegetarianversionwithcauliflower.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING40minutes

4tablespoonsvegetableoil1tablespooncorianderseeds½teaspoonfenugreekseeds2onions,sliced3tablespoonsdesiccatedcoconut1teaspoongarammasala2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste7–8freshor10driedcurryleaves800gchickenthighsonthebone,skinremoved1teaspoon

medium-hotchillipowder1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper2tomatoes,chopped2tablespoonstamarindpulporshop-boughttamarindpaste300mlcoconutmilksaltNeerDosaorboiledrice,toserve

1Heathalftheoilinaheavy-basedfryingpanoverahighheatandaddthecorianderandfenugreekseeds.Fryforaminuteuntiltheystarttodarkenthenaddtheonions.Stirfor8–10minutesuntilsoftandbrown.2Addthecoconut,garammasalaandginger-garlicpasteandstirfor3–4minutesuntilthemixtureturnsgolden,thenremovefromtheheat,coolandtransfertoablender.Blitzuntilsmooth,withenoughwatertoturntheblades.Setaside.

3Heattheremainingoilinafryingpanoverahighheatandaddthecurryleavesandchicken(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter).Stirtoseal,thenaddthechillipowder,groundturmericandpepperandseasonwithsalt.Addthetomatoesandtamarindpaste.Cookoverahighheatfor3–4minutestosoftenthetomatoes,thentipintheonionandcoconutmixturefromtheblender.Rinseouttheblenderwithalittlewaterandpourthisintothecurry.Bringtotheboilthenreducetheheat,coverandsimmerfor20minutesuntilthechickenistenderandcookedthrough.4Stirinthecoconutmilk,seasontotaste,heatthroughandservehotwithriceorNeerDosa.

PalakMurgh

[CHICKENANDSPINACHCURRY]

Ilovethecreamycombinationofspinachandchicken,andoftenaddwhatevergreenvegetablesIcanfindinmyfridge,includingbroccoliandbeans,tothesauce.Thefriedgreenchilliesaddedattheendaddafreshherbyflavour,butyoucanleavethemoutifyoupreferamilderdish.ThisrecipeisfromnorthIndia,wheremeatandchickenisoftencombinedwithvegetablessuchasspinach,fenugreek,okraorcorn.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING45minutes

1bunchofspinach,washedahandfuloffreshdill,choppedalargehandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped2

tablespoons,plus1teaspoonvegetableoil(forfryingthechillies,optional)2mediumonions,thinlysliced1teaspoondriedfenugreekleaves(kasoorimethi–optional)2freshgreenchillies,chopped2tablespoonsginger-garlicpaste

2tablespoonstomatopurée800gchickenlegs,skinnedandhalvedatthejoint1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoonmedium-hotchillipowder1teaspoongroundcoriander1teaspoongarammasala1tablespoonlemonjuice2freshgreenchillies,slitlengthways(optional)saltRotis,Parathasorboiledrice,toserve

1Putthespinachinasaucepanandcookoveramediumheatfor3–4minutesuntiljustwilted.Removefromtheheatandtransfertoablenderwiththedillandcorianderandafewtablespoonsofwater.Blitztoafinepurée,thensetaside.2Heat2tablespoonsoftheoilinaheavy-basedpanoverahighheat,addtheonionsandfryfor7–8minutesuntilverysoft.3Addthekasoorimethiordriedfenugreekleaves(ifusing),chillies,ginger-garlicpasteandthetomatopuréeandfryforafewminutes.Addacoupleoftablespoonsofwaterandcookforafurther1–2minutesuntiltheoilseparates.4Addthechickenlegs,fryfor2–3minutestoseal,thenstirinthegroundspices.

Seasonwithsalt,drizzleinthelemonjuiceandmixwell.Pourinabout150mlwaterandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheat,coverandcookfor20–25minutesuntilthechickenistenderandcookedthrough.5Stirinthepuréedgreens,seasontotaste,andremovefromtheheat.6Ifyouwanttoservethecurrywithfriedgreenchillies,heatateaspoonofoilinasmallfryingpanoverahighheat,addthegreenchilliesandfryfor40secondsorsountiltheystarttochangecolour.Pourtheoilandchilliesoverthecurryandservehotwithrotis,parathasorboiledrice.

KolhapuriPandhraRassa

[MAHARASHTRIANWHITECHICKENCURRY]

ThisKolhapuricurryisfamousforitsunusualwhite(pandhra)colourandcanbemadewithmuttonorlamb.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,plussoakingtimeCOOKING45minutes

800gchickenthighsonthebone2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste1tablespoonwhitesesameseeds,soakedinalittlewarmwaterfor30minutes1tablespoon

whitepoppyseeds,soakedinalittlewarmwaterfor30minutes2tablespoonsunsaltedcashewnuts,soakedinalittlewarmwaterfor30minutes2freshgreenchillies,diced200mlcoconutmilk

2tablespoonsvegetableoil4cloves1smallcinnamonstick4greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded2bayleaves1onion,finelydicedsaltboiledrice,toserve

1Putthechicken,salttoseasonandhalftheginger-garlicpasteinasaucepanandpourinenoughwatertojustcover.Bringtotheboilthenreducetheheatandsimmerfor15–20minutesuntilthechickenistenderandcookedthrough.Liftthechickenoutwithaslottedspoonandreserveboththechickenandthestockinwhichithasbeencooked.2Meanwhile,putthesesameandpoppyseedsalongwiththecashewnutsinablender.Addthechilliesandblitzforafewminutes,addingalittlewaterifnecessary,tomakeafinepurée.Transferthepuréetoabowlandaddthecoconutmilk.3Heattheoilinaheavy-basedfryingpanoverahighheatandaddthecloves,cinnamon,cardamomandbayleaves.Whentheybegintosizzleanddarken,addtheonionandcookfor8–10minutesuntilverysoft.Stirintheremainingginger-garlicpaste,cookforafewseconds,thenpourinthestockfromStep1andbringtotheboil.Addthecookedchickenandstirinthewhitepaste.Heat

thecurrywithoutallowingittoboil,asitisquitedelicateandcansplitifcookedtoahightemperature.Seasontotasteandservehotwithrice.

NadanKozhiIshtu

[KERALACHICKENSTEW]

ThiscurryisofteneatenforbreakfastonChristmasdayoronSundaysinSyrianChristianhomesinKeralabecausepeoplebelieveincookingalittleofmanymeatsonfestivedays.AChristmasmenumayhaveachickenstew,duckroastandabeefdishandtherearealwayslotsoffamilyandfriendsaroundthetabletofinishitall.

Serves5PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING50minutes

400mlcoconutmilk2onions,sliced2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste2carrots,peeledandcutintothickchunks1largepotato,peeledandquartered800g

boneless,skinlesschickenthighs(orskinleftonforafattierstew)1teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper1tablespoonwhitewinevinegarordistilledvinegar1tablespooncoconutorvegetableoil4cloves

2staranise1smallcinnamonstick7–8freshor10driedcurryleaves1teaspooncornflour,mixedwithalittlewatertomakea

pastesaltboiledrice,breadrollsorAppams,toserve

1Shakethecanofcoconutmilk,thenopenitanddividethecontentsofthecanbetweentwoseparatebowls.Addhalfacanofwatertoonebowltomakeathincoconutmilk.Theotherbowlcontainsthethickmilk.2Puttheonions,ginger-garlicpaste,carrots,potato,chickenandpepperinasaucepanandseasonwithsalt.Pourinthevinegarandthethincoconutmilk.Bringtotheboilthenreducetheheatandsimmerfor25–30minutesuntilthevegetablesaretenderandthechickeniscookedthrough.3Heattheoilinasmallsaucepanoverahighheatandaddthewholespices.Whentheystarttosizzleaddthecurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter).Pourthisintothestew,thenstirinthe

cornflourpasteandthickcoconutmilk.Bringtoalmostboilingpointthenremovefromtheheat.Seasontotasteandservehotwithboiledrice,breadrollsorappams.

KeralaFishMoleeGoenchiKodiMalvaniRus-GolichiAmtiBhujaneChingriMaccherMalaikariVanjaramMeenVaruvalKolmiFryKhekdaMasalaRoyallaVepuduShorsheChingriBhapaFishRecheadoDoiMachSuraPuttuMashyachiAmtiMaccherJholKolmiNoPatioKanavaThoranKonkaniChimboriMasalaMacchiMasalaMasorTenga

FISHHASBEENEATENININDIASINCEANCIENTTIMES.CAVEPAINTINGSINBHIMBETKAINCENTRALINDIA,CONSIDEREDTOBE30,000YEARSOLD,INCLUDEIMAGESOFFISH,

ANDATOTHERNEARBYSITESTHEREISEVIDENCEOFFISHINGWITHNETSANDSTONES.

Withover4,000milesofcoastlineandhundredsofrivers,suchastheGangaandtheNarmada,Indiaisrichwithfishandseafood.Coastalregionshavefishingcommunities–inMumbaiitisthe‘Kolis’,whoareconsideredtobeoriginalinhabitantsofthearea.TheirpatrongoddessMumbadevigavethecityMumbaiitsname.Atdawneachday,thefishmarketfillswithvendorswhohavedesignatedstallsandloyalcustomerswhoalmostalwaysbuyfromthesameseller.Thesearetypicallywomenwholookafterthesaleswhilethemengooutfishing.

ThefreshwaterfishofIndiaarealsoquitefamous.PeopleinKeralaswearbythekarimeen(pearlspot)whichisfoundinthebrackishbackwatersofthestate.Itisconsideredsuchadelicacythatithasbeendeclaredthestate’sofficialfish!

Bengalisgodewy-eyedabouttheoily,bonyfish‘hilsa’or‘ilish’andbuytheminpairstomarkfestiveandauspiciousdays.ThehilsaisactuallyaseafishbutlaysitseggsinBengal’srivers.Theyoungfisharecaughtastheyswimouttoseaandtheseareconsideredthemostdelicious.

FishhasbeeneateninIndiasinceancienttimes.CavepaintingsinBhimbetkaincentralIndia,consideredtobe30,000yearsold,includeimagesoffish,andatothernearbysitesthereisevidenceoffishingwithnetsandstones.TravellerstoIndia,includingtheGreeks,ChineseandFrench,notedthatfishwaseateninprofusion.TheMughalemperorBabur’s(1483–1530AD)historicalrecord,theBaburnama,describesuniquemethodsofcatchingfishpractisedbythelocals:‘Atsomeconvenientplacelowerdowntheriver,inaholebelowafall,theywillhavefixedbeforehandawattleoffinger-thickwillow-withes,makingitfirmbypilingstonesonitssides.Thewatergoesrushinganddashingthroughthewattle,butleavesonitanyfishthatmayhavecomefloatingdown.ThiswayofcatchingfishispractisedinGul-bahar,ParwanandIstalif.’

Crustaceanssuchasprawns,crabsandlobstersarealsopopular,andseveralvarieties,suchasthegianttigerprawnandthespinylobster,arefoundinthewildaswellasfarmed.Indiaexportsvastquantitiesofprawns,bothfrozenand

dried.ManyIndiansfollowtheAyurvedicruleofnotmixingfishwithmilkordairy,

astheseareconsideredincompatiblefoods.Milkisconsidered‘cooling’whereasfishisbelievedtobe‘heating’.Combiningthetwoissaidtohampertheeffectivenessofthegastro-intestinaltract,howeversomeIndianrecipesdoexistthatcombinethesetwofoods,suchasthefishandyogurtBengalicurry,DoiMach.TheAyurvedicconceptof‘sathmya’suggeststhateatingafoodorcombinationoffoodsoveralongtimemakesusimmunetoitsnegativeeffects.

Intherecipesinthischapter,Ihaveusedrawprawnsastheyarealwayssomuchmoredeliciousthanthecookedones.Also,cookedonesneedtobecookedagaininacurrytoabsorbtheflavoursofthespices,whichmakesthemrubbery.Ifyouhavetousecookedprawns,addthematthelastminuteandsimmerforaminuteorso.

Ihavealsosuggestedsubstitutesfortraditionalfishifyoucannotfindthem.Inmyexperience,exceptforafewfrozenfishorshellfish,suchaskingfishorprawns,it’sbesttousefreshlocalfish.ManyfishlosetheirtextureandtastewhenfrozenandIhavebeenespeciallydisappointedwithfrozenpomfretboughtintheUK,whichissuchadelicacyinIndiawhenfresh.

FishMarketsInIndia

WhenmychildrenwerelittleonourvisitstoMumbai,we’dgototheSassoonDockfishmarketinColabaearlyonSundaymornings.Wewouldwearflipflopstonegotiatethewetfloorsofthemarketaswelookedforthebestbargainsandwaitedfortheboatstocomein.

Ataround7am,theboatswouldcomeintothedockandamidstmuchexcitementandshouting,thecatchwouldbeoffloadedintobasketsonshore.Fishmongersandrestaurantswouldquicklybuywhattheywantedandtherestwassoldtobuyerslikeus.SomefishinMumbaiisstillexpensive,especiallythesilver,delicatepomfretandhugetigerprawns.Athome,thekitchenwouldcomealivewiththetoastingofspices,blendingofcoconutcurrymasalaandthesizzleoffriedprawnsthatwouldmakeafineSundaylunch!

Anotherfavouritefishmarketofmine,eventoday,istheoneatGrantRoad,wheremyregularsalesladySandhyagivesmethebestdealsassheknowsIvisitonlyafewtimesayear.Asavvysaleswoman,shehassoldmefishforthepast15years.SheknowswhatIalwaysbuy,willgivemeafewextraplumpprawnsformyloyaltyandcleansmyfishandprawnsforme.Ihaveseenthepriceoffishtrebleinthelastfewyearsandyetthefishmarket,especiallyatweekends,isfull.

ManycitiesandtownsinIndiahavesuchfishmarkets–bustlingbusyplaceswithfreshfish,prawns,crabsandotherseafood.It’satreatIlookforwardtooneverytripImakebacktoMumbai.

HOWTOCHOOSEYOURFISH1Itshouldhaveverylittleodour,ifany.Fishshouldhaveaclean,brinysmell.Anystrongfishyodourwillnotgoawaycompletelyoncooking.ManyIndiansdonotliketheoverpoweringsmelloffishandwillwashitwithtamarindorlemonbeforeusingit,ormarinateitinsaltandturmericbeforecookingit.2Bright,cleareyes.Iftheeyesareglazedandsunken,thefishhasbeenkeptforawhile.Althoughnotunsafetoeat,itwillnottastefresh.3Shinyscales.Freshfishdoesnotlookdullorfaded.4Redgills.Liftupagillandlookforadeepbloodycolourasopposedtoadull

brownhue.5Buywhole,frozen,rawprawnsifyoucan’tgetfresh.Theshellkeepsthemoistureinandrawonesabsorbflavoursbetterthancookedones.

HOWTOTELLIFFISHISCOOKEDIndiansliketheirfishwelldoneanddonotappreciateaslightlytranslucentlook.Generallyfishandprawnsarecookedwhentheyturnopaqueandwillcarryoncookingalittlewhentheyareremovedfromtheheat.

Theeasiestwaytocheckisbycuttingasmallslitintoapieceoffishtocheckifitisopaqueandflaky.Typically,fishisaddedtocurriesasoneofthelastingredientsasitcookssoquickly.Marinadesforfishshouldnotincludelemonifusedovernightoroveranylengthoftimeastheacidcanbegintocookthefish.Addthelemonjustbeforecooking.

KeralaFishMolee

[CREAMYFISHCURRY]

ThisuniquesouthIndianfishcurryisnotafierydish,infactitisquitecreamywiththethickcoconutmilkthatisused.Traditionalfishusedwouldbeseer,kingfish,pomfretorpearlspotbutyoucanusesalmon,halibutorsimilarfirm-fleshedfishifyoucan’tgetoneofthese.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING40minutes

2tablespoonscoconutorvegetableoil1teaspoonblackorbrownmustardseeds1mediumonion,finelydiced

2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste2freshgreenchillies,chopped1teaspoongroundturmeric600gfirm-fleshedfishfillets,suchassalmon,halibutorredmullet300mlcoconutmilk5freshor10driedcurryleaves2tomatoes,chopped2teaspoonslemonjuicesaltboiledrice,toserve

1Heattheoilinamediumsaucepanoverahighheat,addthemustardseedsandwaituntiltheypop.Addtheonionandfryfor7–8minutesuntilsoft,thenstirintheginger-garlicpasteandthechillies.2Stirintheturmericandplacethefishinthepan.Fryonbothsidesfor3–4minutesoneachsideuntilpartiallycooked.3Pourinthecoconutmilk,thenaddthecurryleavesandthetomatoes.4Seasonwithsaltandcookoveralowheatfor7–8minutes,untilthefishistender.5Removefromtheheat,stirinthelemonjuice,seasontotasteandserveatoncewithrice.

GoenchiKodi

[GOANFISHCURRY]

Thereareseveralversionsofthisclassicdish,dependingonwhichcommunityiscookingitbutallofthemhavebrightredchilliesandasouringredientliketamarind.Thecurryisoftenflavouredwithalocalspicecalledtirphal(avarietyofSzechuanpepper).Ifyoucan’tfindit,leaveitout,orusethesamequantityofSzechuanpepper.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING30minutes

4x180gsteaksofafirm-fleshedwhitefish,suchaspomfretorpollock1teaspoongroundturmeric2tablespoonsvegetableoil1smallonion,finelydiced3tablespoonstamarindpulporshop-boughttamarindpaste3–4tirphal(optional)200mlcoconutmilk

saltboiledrice,toserveForthepurée10blackpeppercorns1teaspooncuminseeds1largeonion,sliced4garliccloves7driedredKashmirichillies,soakedinalittlehotwaterfor10minutes

1Rubthefishfilletswiththeturmericandsalttoseasonandsetasidewhileyoupreparetheremainingingredients.2Puttheingredientsforthepuréeintoablender,includingthewaterthechilliesweresoakingin,alongwithenoughwatertocoverthemandblitztoafinepurée.3Heattheoilinapanoverahighheatandaddthedicedonion.Fryfor6–7minutesuntilsoft,thenpourthecontentsoftheblenderintothepan.Rinseouttheblenderwithalittlewaterandpourthisinaswell.Addthetamarindandtirphal(ifusing)andseasonwithsalt.4Whenthecurrycomestoabubble,reducetheheatandsimmerforacoupleofminutesthenincreasetheheatandslipinthefish,pourinthecoconutmilkandsimmerfor7–8minutesoruntiltender.5Seasontotasteandservehotwithrice.

MASTERCLASS

PATRANIMACCHI–FishcookedinCorianderChutney

ThefirsttimeIhadthisParsidelicacywasataweddinginMumbaiwhenIwasabout8yearsold.HavingbeingbroughtupwithHindurituals,thethoughtofa‘non-vegetarian’weddingfeastwasbothintriguingandexciting.Thetraditionalfishusedispomfret,steamedinbananaleaves,boththeseingredientsbeinglocaltoGujaratandMumbai,wheremanyParsislive.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,plus20minutessoakingtimeCOOKING20minutes

YOUWILLNEED:4x150gfirm-fleshedfishfillets,suchaspomfret,codorhake½teaspoonground

turmericForthecorianderchutneyalargehandfuloffreshmintleavesalargehandfuloffreshcorianderleaves2fresh

greenchillies1tablespoonginger-garlicpaste½teaspooncuminseeds3tablespoonslimejuice1teaspooncastersugar6tablespoonsfreshlygratedcoconutordesiccatedcoconut(soakedinalittlewarm

waterfor20minutestosoften)salt4squaresofbananaleavesorfoil

1Blitzthechutneyingredientsinafoodprocessororblenderuntiltheyformafinepaste,addingatinybitofwaterifnecessary.

2Seasoneachfilletoffishwithsaltandrubwiththeturmeric.

3Coateachfilletwithaquarterofthechutneyandwrapthemindividuallyinbananaleaforfoil.Securewithcocktailsticksortiewithapieceofstring

toholdtheparceltogether.Steamthefishfor20minutesinasteamerorbakefor20minutesinanovenpreheatedto200°C/gasmark6.

4Removefromthesteamerorovenandserveimmediately.

MalvaniRus-GolichiAmti

[MAHARASHTRIANFISHCURRY]

Theterm‘rus-golichi’referstococonutmilkandthespicepastethatiscookedwithit.Mackereloranyfirmfishsuchasseabassorswordfishcanbeusedforthisfierycurry.Kokum,asourpurplefruit,isusedfortang–ifyoucan’tgetholdofit,youcanusetamarindpulpinstead.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING30minutes

4x180gsteaksoffirm-fleshedfish,suchasmackerel,seabassorswordfish1teaspoongroundturmeric2tablespoonsvegetableoil6kokum,rinsedandsoakedin2tablespoonswarmwateror4teaspoonstamarindpastesalt

boiledrice,toserveForthecurrypaste8driedredKashmirichillies,soakedinalittlehotwaterfor10minutestosoften3onions,

finelydiced½freshlygratedcoconutor5tablespoonsdesiccatedcoconut(soakedinhotwaterfor20

minutestosoften)1teaspooncorianderseeds3garliccloves,chopped

1Rubthefishwiththeturmericandsalttoseason.2Putthecurrypasteingredients(reservingone-thirdofthedicedonion),includingthesoakingliquidfromthechillies,inablenderwithenoughwatertocoverandblitztoaveryfinepurée.3Heattheoilinasaucepanoverahighheatandaddthereservedonion.Fryfor7–8minutesuntilsoft,thenaddthepastefromtheblender.Rinsetheblenderoutwithalittlewaterandaddthistothepan,thenaddthekokumalongwiththesoakingwater(orthetamarind)andbringtotheboil.Seasonwithsalt.4Slipinthefishandsimmerfor8–10minutesuntildone.Seasontotasteandservehotwithrice.

Bhujane

[SWEETANDSOURFISHCURRY]

ThePatharePrabhusareconsideredtobeoneofMumbai’searliestHindusettlers,havinglivedtheresincethethirteenthcentury.Theyareknownfortheiruniquetraditions,suchascelebratingthefestivalofDiwaliover8daysinsteadof5daysliketherestofIndia,andtheirstylishliving,aswellasboastingaluxurious,deliciouscuisine.UnlikemanypartsofIndiawheremeatandfish,beingexpensive,isjusteatenoccasionally,thePatharePrabhusconsumethemregularly,oftencombinedwithvegetables.WesterntechniquessuchasbakingcametobeapartofthePatharePrabhukitchen,wherefoodssuchas‘pies’withspicesandherbsweremadeasfamilymeals.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING30minutes

4x200gfilletsoffirm-fleshedfish,suchaskingfish,tunaorhake1teaspoongroundturmeric2teaspoonsmincedgarlic4largeonions,finelychopped2freshgreenchillies,finelydicedalargehandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped3tablespoonsvegetableoil2tablespoonstamarindpulporshop-boughttamarindpaste,mixedwith2tablespoons

watersaltboiledrice,toserve

1Rubthefishfilletswithhalfoftheturmeric,themincedgarlicandsalttoseason.2Mixtheonions,chilliesandcorianderinalargebowlandcrushwithyourhandstobruisethemtogether.Themoreyoucrushthismixture,thesmoother

thesaucewillbe.3Heattheoilinaflatfryingpanoverahighheatandaddthefish.Gentlyfryonbothsidesuntilsealedandjustpartiallycooked,thentransfertoaplateandsetaside.4Addtheonionmixturetothepanandfryfor8–9minutes,untiltheonionsareverysoft,thenpourinthetamarindpasteandremainingturmeric.Cookforacoupleofminutes.5Putthefishintothismixtureandcontinuecookingfor8–9minutes,turningthefishafewtimes,untilitistender.Seasontotasteandservehotwithrice.

ChingriMaccherMalaikari

[CREAMYBENGALIPRAWNCURRY]

MyBengalifriendNimasaysthatsomepeoplebelievethatanearlyversionofthisrecipewasbroughtviatheBayofBengalbyMalaysiansailors,whichiswhyit’scalleda‘Malai’(meaningMalay)kari(curry).‘Malai’insomeIndianlanguagestranslatesasmilkcream,whichthisrecipedoesnotcontain.Instead,coconut,whichiscommonlyusedinFarEasterncuisines,isthebaseforthisdeliciousdish.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING25minutes

600grawjumboprawns,shelledanddeveined½teaspoongroundturmeric2tablespoonsmustardorvegetableoil2bayleaves

1smallcinnamonstick1largeonion,finelychopped2.5cmpieceoffreshrootginger,scrapedandfinelygrated1

teaspoongroundcoriander1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder3tablespoonsfreshlygratedcoconut,ordesiccatedcoconut(soakedinhotwaterfor20minutestosoften)100mlcoconutmilk

2tablespoonslemonjuicesaltboiledrice,toserve

1Mixtheprawnsandturmerictogether,seasonwithsaltandsetaside.2Heathalftheoilinasaucepanoverahighheat,addtheprawnsandfrythembriefly.Whentheystarttochangecolour,drainonkitchenpaperandsetaside.3Heattheremainingoilinasaucepanoverahighheatandaddthebayleavesandcinnamonstick.Whentheystarttodarken,addtheonionandfryfor7–8minutesuntilsoft,thenaddthegratedginger.Stirinthegroundspicesandgratedordesiccatedcoconut.Cookforacoupleofminutes,thenpourinthecoconutmilkandlemonjuice.Bringalmosttoboilingpoint.4Addtheprawnsandseasontotaste.Simmerforaminuteorsothenremovefromtheheat.Servehotwithplainrice.

VanjaramMeenVaruval

[SOUTHINDIANFRIEDKINGFISH]

KingfishisthepopularIndiannamefortheIndo-Pacifickingmackerel.Ithasfirmfleshthatholdsitsshapeandisthereforeeatenfriedorinpickles.Youcanuseanyfirm-fleshedfishsuchassalmoninthisrecipe,butavoidflippingitovertoomanytimesasthiscandryouttheflesh.KingfishcanbeboughtfrozeninmanyIndianorSriLankanshopsaroundtheworld.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,plus2hoursmarinatingtimeorovernightifpossibleCOOKING20minutes

4x200gsteaksofkingfish,salmon,breamorhakecoconutorvegetableoil,forshallow-fryingsalt

onionringsandwedgesoflime,toserveForthemarinade1teaspoongroundturmeric2teaspoonsmedium-hotredchillipowder2teaspoonsgroundcoriander1tablespoonginger-garlicpaste1teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper2tablespoonstamarindpulporshop-bought

tamarindpaste

1Combinetheingredientsforthemarinadeinabowlandseasonwithsalt.Putthefishinthebowlandrubthemarinadeontoitwithyourfingerstocoatitevenly.Coverandrefrigerateforacoupleofhoursorovernight.2Bringthefishtoroomtemperature.Heatenoughoiltocoverthebaseofafryingpanandshallow-frythefishfor5minutesoneachside.Drainonkitchenpaperthenservewithonionringsandwedgesoflime.

KolmiFry

[CRISPGARLICPRAWNS]

Thisisnotjustafavouriterecipeinmyhomebutalsoatmanyofmyclasses.Simpletomake,stunningtolookatandaperfectblendofsweet,hot,saltyandtangyflavoursinacrispcoating,thesearemadeforSundaylunchinMaharashtrianhomes.

Serves4PREPARATION→5minutes,plus1hourmarinatingtimeorovernightifpossibleCOOKING15minutes

600glargerawprawns,shelledanddeveinedvegetableoil,forshallow-fryingsqueezeoflemonjuice3tablespoonsfinesemolinaorricefloursaltboiledriceandAamti,toserveForthemarinade½teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder½teaspoonginger-garlicpaste

1Combinetheingredientsforthemarinadeinabowl,seasonwithsalt,andmixtheprawnsintoit.Makesureyouseasontheprawnswellastheywilllaterbecoatedwithunseasonedsemolinaorriceflour.Transfertothefridgetomarinatefor1hourorovernightifpossible.2Heatenoughoiltocoverthebottomofalargefryingpan,andsqueezethelemonjuiceintothebowlwiththeprawns.Tosstomix.3Rollafewoftheprawnsinthesemolinaorriceflourandplacegentlyintotheoilwhenitishot.Placetheminaclockwisedirectionsothatyoucanflipthemoverinthesameordertoensureevencooking.Reducetheheatandfrythe

prawnsforacoupleofminutesoneachsideuntildone.4Drainandtransfertokitchenpaper.Repeatuntilalltheprawnsarecooked.ServehotwithriceandAamti.

KhekdaMasala

[CRABSTUFFEDWITHMUSTARDANDCOCONUT]

TheMaharashtriancoastlineoffersavarietyoflargeseacrabsbuttheinlandriversalsohosttheirownsmallerfreshwaterones.Eithercanbeusedforthisrecipe.Itmakesagoodmaincourseservedwithriceanddal.

Serves4PREPARATION→20minutes,plus30minutestocookthecrabifusingfreshCOOKING20minutes

4xlarge(450g)freshorcooked,dressedcrab,or8smallones2tablespoonsvegetableoil½teaspoonblackmustardseeds8freshor12driedcurryleaves3greenchillies,finelychopped2onions,finelydiced1½teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste1teaspoongroundturmeric4tablespoonsoffreshlygratedcoconut,ordesiccatedcoconut(soakedinhotwaterfor20

minutestosoften)asmallhandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,choppedsaltboiledriceanddal,toserve(optional)

1Ifyouareusingfreshcrabs,bringalargesaucepanofwatertotheboilandgentlylowerinthecrabs.Bringbackuptotheboil,coverandsimmerfor30minutes.Removefromtheheatandleavethecrabsinthewatertocool.2Topreparethecrab,placeitonitsbackonaboard,withitseyestowardsyou,andpriseofftheclaws,whichcontainmostofthewhitemeat.Settheclawsaside.Breakoffanddiscardthesixlegs.Insertaknifeunderthelargetriangular

‘purse’betweentheeyesandliftitup.Removeanddiscardit.Inside,youwillseegreywispygills.Removeanddiscardtheseastheyshouldnotbeeaten.Removetheflesh(whitemeatonly)fromthecrabsandshredit.Crackopentheclawsbywrappingtheminateatowelandsmashingthemwithahammer.Peelawaytheclawshellstoextractthemeat,takingcaretodiscardthesharpcentralbladebone.Reservethebodyshells,cleaningoutthebrownmeatfromtheshells,astheyaretobeusedasavesselinStep6,andrepeatwiththeremainingthreecrabs.3Ifyouareusingdressedcrab,scrapeoutthewhitemeatintoabowlandsavetheshells.4Heattheoilinasaucepanoverahighheat,addthemustardseedsandwaituntiltheypop,thenaddthecurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter)andthechillies.Addtheonionsandfryfor7–8minutesuntilverysoft,thenstirintheginger-garlicpasteandsprinkleintheturmeric.Cookforafurtherminuteorso,thenaddtheshreddedcrabmeatandmixwell.5Removethecrabmixturefromtheheat,stirinhalfthecoconutandseasonwithsalt.6Stuffthespicedcrabmeatbackintotheshellsandgarnishwiththeremainingcoconutandthecoriander.Servewarmwithriceanddal,ifyoulike.

RoyallaVepudu

[ANDHRA-STYLEPRAWNFRY]

Thissemi-drydishisfragrantwithcurryleavesandfennelseeds.Runyourknifedownthebacksoftheprawnsafterdeveiningthemtobutterflythemandkeepthemjuicyduringcooking.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING25minutes

2tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspoonblackmustardseeds1teaspoonfennelseeds5–6freshor7–8driedcurryleaves2onions,finelydiced1tablespoonginger-garlicpaste1largetomato,chopped1teaspoongroundturmeric600glargerawprawns,shelled,deveinedandbutterfliedalargehandfuloffreshcoriander

leaves,finelychopped,togarnishsaltRotisorboiledrice,toserve

1Heattheoilinafryingpanoverahighheat,thenaddtheblackmustardseedsand,assoonastheseedsstarttopop,addthefennelseedsandcurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter).Theywillcookwithinseconds.Addtheonionsandfryfor7–8minutesuntilsoftandbrown,thentipintheginger-garlicpasteandstirforaminuteorso.2Stirinthechoppedtomatoandturmericandcookfor3–4minutesuntilsoft.Themixtureshouldlookwellblended,almostlikeapaste.3Addtheprawns,seasonwithsaltandmixwell.Coverthepanandcookfor7–8minutes.Seasontotaste,stirinthecorianderandservehotwithrotisorrice.

ShorsheChingriBhapa

[BENGALIPRAWNSINMUSTARDANDPOPPYSEEDSAUCE]

ThisclassicdishistypicalofBengalicookery,wherefishisoftencookedin‘sorshebata’ormustardpaste.Thehitatthebackofthenoseischerishedbutifyoupreferamilderdish,reducetheamountofmustardseeds.Theprawnscanbesubstitutedwithafirm-fleshedfishsuchashakeorbreamtomake‘SorshebataMaach’,whichmeans‘fishinmustardpaste’.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,plus30minutessoakingtimeCOOKING40minutes

600glargerawprawns,shelledanddeveined1teaspoongroundturmeric3teaspoonsblackorbrownmustardseeds2teaspoonswhitepoppyseeds1freshgreen

chilli,diced2tablespoonsfreshlygratedcoconutordesiccatedcoconut(soakedinhotwaterfor20

minutestosoften)½teaspooncastersugar100mlcoconutmilk2tablespoonsmustardorvegetableoilsaltboiledrice,toserve

1Placetheprawnsinabowlwiththeturmericandsalttoseason.Whiletheymarinate,soakthemustardandpoppyseedsinenoughwarmwatertocoverfor30minutes.2Putthesoaked,drainedseedsandchilliinasmallblenderorpestleandmortarandblitzorcrushtoafinepaste.3Puttheprawns,spicepaste,gratedordesiccatedcoconut,sugar,coconutmilkandoilintoaheatproofbowlwhichcanbeplacedinasteamer.Seasonwithsalt.Thiscanbedoneinapressurecooker,ifyouhaveone,withoutaddingthewhistle/weightontop.4Oncethesteamhasbuiltupinthesteamer,cookthecurryfor25minutesoruntiltheprawnsaretenderandtheoilisfloatingontop.Leavethecurrytorestfor5minutesbeforeopeningthesteamer.Cookingtimesmayvaryslightly,dependingonthesteameryouuse.Servehotwithrice.

FishRecheado

[FISHSTUFFEDWITHCHILLIANDSPICE]

LikemanyGoandishes,thisonealsohasitsrootsinPortuguesecooking.Theword‘recheado’isvariouslyspeltandmeans‘stuffed’inPortuguese.InGoa,youwouldmostlikelyeatpomfretormackerelrecheado.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,plus30minutessoakingtimeCOOKING25minutes

7–8driedredKashmirichillies2.5cmpieceoffreshrootginger,scrapedandchopped5garliccloves,chopped

1teaspoonblackpeppercorns1teaspooncuminseeds1tablespooncastersugar3tablespoonstamarindpulporshop-boughttamarindpaste3tablespoonscoconutorcider

vinegar2largefreshmackerel(about400geach),gutted,scaledandcleaned,withdiagonalslitscutalongthebodies2teaspoonsgroundturmeric

1teaspoongarammasalavegetableoil,forshallow-fryingsaltlemonorlimewedgesandfreshonionrings,toserve

1Placethechilliesinabowlwiththeginger,garlic,peppercorns,cuminseeds,sugar,tamarindpulpandvinegar,addingsalttoseason.Addenoughwater,ifrequired,tojustcoverthemixture.Setasidetosoakfor30minutes.2Rubthefishwithhalftheturmericandsalttoseasonandsetaside.3Blitzthemixturemadeinstep1inablendertomakeapurée,thenstirintheremainingturmericandthegarammasala.Thisrecheadomasalashouldbebrightredincolour.Stuffthefishandtheslitsonthebodywiththemasalamix,coatingitevenly.4Heatenoughoiltocoatthebaseofafryingpanoveramediumheatandshallow-frythefishfor7–8minutesoneachsideuntilitiscrispontheoutsideandcookedthrough.Testwhetherthefishisdonebyliftingoneoftheslits,thefleshshouldbewhiteandopaque.Servehotwithwedgesoflemonorlimeand

freshonionrings.

DoiMach

[BENGALIFISHINYOGURT]

AlthoughmanyIndiansbelievetheAyurvedicsuggestionthatdairyandfishmustnotbecombinedasitcanleadtopoordigestion,theBengalishaveprovedthatthisisnotalwaysthecase.Theircuisinehasmanyexamplesofthiscombination,eithercookedtogether,asinthisrecipe,oreateninquicksuccession,asinafishcurryfollowedbyamilkydessert.Full-fatyogurtisbestusedforcookingasitdoesnottendtosplitonheating,whereaslower-fatvarietiesdo.Youcanvarythelevelofheatbyreducingtheamountofchillipowder.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING30minutes

4x200gsteaksoffirm-fleshedfish,suchassalmonorkingfish1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder3garliccloves,chopped2.5cmpieceoffreshrootginger,scrapedandchopped1largeonion,diced

2tablespoonsmustardoil2bayleaves3cloves1smallcinnamonstick4greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded½teaspooncuminseeds500gfull-fatyogurt2freshgreenchillies,slitlengthwayssaltboiledrice,toserve

1Rubthefishsteakswithhalftheturmeric,halfthechillipowderandsalttoseason.Refrigeratefor15minuteswhileyoupreparetheremainingingredients.2Putthegarlic,gingerandonioninablenderandblitztoapuréewithalittlewater.3Heattheoilinafryingpanuntilitreachessmokingpoint,totakeawaysomeofthepungency,thenreducetheheatandfrythefishtwoatatimeforabout8minutes,turningthemoveracoupleoftimestosealbothsides,untilalmostdone.Liftthefishoutofthepanwithaslottedspoon,drainonkitchenpaper

andsetaside.4Addthebayleaves,cloves,cinnamonstick,cardamomandcuminseedstothesamefishyoil.Fryforafewsecondsuntiltheysizzle,thenaddtheonionpaste.Fryfor5–6minutesuntilthemixturebeginstostick,thenrinseouttheblenderwithalittlewaterandpourthewaterintothepan.Addtheremainingturmericandchillipowder.Bringtotheboil,reducetheheatandsimmerfor8–10minutesuntilthemixtureisthick.5Seasontheyogurtwithsaltandstiritintothecurryalittleatatime.Addthegreenchillies,thenbringuptoalmostboilingpoint.Slipinthefishandcoverthepan.Cookforafurther4–5minutesoveramediumheatuntilthefishiscookedthrough,thenremovefromtheheat,seasontotasteandservehotwithrice.

SuraPuttu

[SHARKFISHCRUMBLE]

Thisspicyrecipeismadewithsharkor‘sura’inTamilNadubutIhavealsoeatenaBengaliversionthatusesabonylocalfishcalled‘ilish’.Ifyoucannotfindshark,useafirm-fleshedfishsuchastuna,snapper,kingfishorswordfish.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING35minutes

4x200gsharksteaksortuna,snapper,kingfish,swordfishorhake1teaspoongroundturmeric2tablespoonscoconutorvegetableoil2onions,finelydiced2freshgreenchillies,finelydiced6–7freshor10driedcurryleaves2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste1teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper2tablespoonslemonorlimejuicesaltalargehandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,finelychopped,toserveRotisorboiledrice,toserve

1Rubthefishsteakswithhalftheturmericandsalttoseasonthensetasidewhileyoupreparetheremainingingredients.2Heathalftheoilinafryingpanandfrythefishinbatchesfor4–5minutesoneachsideuntilopaque.Coverandletthefishcookinitsownsteamfor6–7minutesuntilcookedthrough.Removefromtheheat,leavetocoolslightlythenshredthefleshwithyourfingers,discardinganybones.3Heattheremainingoilinapanoverahighheatandfrytheonionsfor7–8minutesuntilverysoft.Addthechilliesandcurryleaves(standingbackfromthe

panifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter)andcontinuecookingforaminute,thenstirintheginger-garlicpaste,remainingturmericandpepper,cookforacoupleofminutes,thenaddtheshreddedfish.4Removefromtheheat,stirinthelemonorlimejuiceandcoriander,seasontotasteandservehotwithrotisorrice.

MashyachiAmti

[FISHANDGREENMANGOCURRY]

IgrewupeatingthisfabuloustangycurryfromMaharashtra.Aschildren,wewouldpickoutthesourmangoslicesasatreattobeeatenattheendofthemeal.Itisusuallymadewithpomfret,butifthisisnotavailableyoucanuseafirmwhitefishlikecoley.RawmangoesareavailableinIndiafromFebruarytoJunebutIsometimesseetheminIndianshopsintheUKallyearroundifthey’vebeenflowninfromvariouscountriesaroundtheworld.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING40minutes

4x200gskinlessfilletsoffirm-fleshedfish,suchaspomfret,coley,cod,haddock,bream1teaspoongroundturmeric

1tablespoonginger-garlicpaste2tablespoonsvegetableoil2onions,finelydiced6–7freshor10driedcurryleaves2freshgreenchillies,diced1greenrawmango,peeled

andthicklysliced½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongroundcoriander400mlcoconutmilksaltboiledrice,toserve

1Rubthefishwithhalftheturmeric,halftheginger-garlicpasteandsalttoseason,thensetaside.2Heattheoilinafryingpanoverahighheat,addtheonionsandfryfor8–10minutesuntilverysoft.Addthecurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter),remainingginger-garlicpasteandchillies.Dropintherawmango.Fryforacoupleofminutesoveramediumheat.3Tipinthegroundspices,includingtheremainingturmeric,andcookfor1minute,thenaddthefishandcookfor2–3minutesoneachsidetoseal.Pourinthecoconutmilkandbringalmosttoboilingpoint.4Reducetheheattomediumandcookfor8–9minutesuntilthefishistender.

Seasontotasteandservehotwithrice.

MaccherJhol

[LIGHTFISHSTEW]

TherearemanyversionsofthisclassicBengaliandOriyalunchtimecurrybutthebestI’vehadwaslateonenightatafriend’srestaurantinLondonwhen,afterservice,theBengalichefmadeapotofJholforthestaff.Bengalisinsistthatrohu,anon-oilyfishofthecarpfamily,isbestforthiscurrybutI’vemadethisjholwithmackerelandit’sequallydelicious.Panchphoronisaspicemix,availableinseedaswellaspowderform,whichcontainsblackmustardseeds,cumin,fennel,nigellaandfenugreek.Ifyoucannotfindit,useequalquantitiesofwhicheveroftheseseedsyoucanfind.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING30minutes

2large(800g)wholemackerel,gutted,cleanedandcutintothicksteaks1teaspoongroundturmeric2tomatoes

2tablespoonsmustardoil1teaspoonpanchphoronspiceseedmix(oramixofequalquantitiesofblackmustardseeds,cumin,fennel,nigellaandfenugreek)1onion,finelydiced

2.5cmpieceoffreshrootginger,peeledandshredded2garliccloves,minced2freshgreenchillies,slitlengthways2mediumpotatoes,peeledandcubed1small

aubergine,cubed1teaspoongroundcuminahandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,finelychopped,togarnishsaltboiledrice,toserve

1Rubthefishwithhalftheturmericandsalttoseason,andsetaside.2Cutthetomatoesinhalfandgratethecutsidesonthecoarsestsideofthegrateroverabowl.Discardtheskin.3Heattheoilinafryingpanuntilitreachessmokingpoint,thenreducetheheatandaddthefishtothepan.Fryfor2–3minutesoneachside,tosealandpartiallycook.Liftthefishoutwithaslottedspoonandsetaside.4Addthepanchphoronseedmixtothesamepan.Whenitcrackles,addthe

onionandfryfor7–8minutesuntilsoft,thentipintheginger,garlicandchilliesandfryfor2–3minutesuntilgolden.5Addthepotatoesandfrytoseal,thenstirintheaubergine.Sprinkleintheremainingturmericandthegroundcumin.Seasonwithsaltandfryfor6–7minutesuntilthepotatoeslookhalfdone.Addthegratedtomatoes,cookforafewminutestoblend,thenpourin300mlwaterandbringtotheboil.6Slipinthefishandcookforafurther8–10minutesuntilthevegetablesaretender.Addasplashofwaterifthecurrydriesup,asitismeanttobequitethinandsoupy.Seasontotaste,stirinthecorianderleavesandservehotwithrice.

KolmiNoPatio

[PRAWNSINHOTTAMARINDSAUCE]

Thered,cloyinglysweetdishthatisknownasa‘patia’inmanyIndianrestaurantsaroundtheworldisnowherenearthebeautifullybalancedsweetandsour‘patio’onewilleatinaParsihome.AsateenagergrowingupinMumbai,IwasluckytobeinvitedbymyParsifriendstoeat‘patio’servedwithrice,toppedwithgoldenfriedonions.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING40minutes

600glargerawprawns,shelledanddeveined1teaspoongroundturmeric2tablespoonsvegetableoil1largeonion,finelydiced2freshgreenchillies,slitlengthways7–8freshor10driedcurryleaves1tablespoonginger-garlicpaste2tomatoes,diced(seedsandall)3tablespoonstamarindpulporshop-boughttamarindpaste2tablespoonsgratedjaggery

orsoftbrownsugar½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongroundcoriander

1teaspoongroundcuminasmallhandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped,togarnishsaltParsi-styleBrownRice,toserve

1Tosstheprawnsinhalftheturmericandsalttoseason.2Heattheoilinafryingpanoverahighheat,addtheonionandfryfor7–8minutesuntilverysoftandgolden.3Tipinthechilliesandcurryleaves,thenstirintheginger-garlicpasteandfryforacoupleofminutestoreleasealltheflavours.4Addthedicedtomatoeswithapinchofsaltandcookfor5–6minutesuntilathickpasteisformed.Mixinthetamarindandjaggeryorsugar.Sprinkleinallthegroundspices,includingtheremainingturmeric.Cookoveramediumheatforafewminutesuntileverythingiswellblended,thenaddasplashofwaterand

bringtotheboil.Thiswillhelptheoiltoseparateandthespicestocook.5Addtheprawnsandcookfor7–8minutes,untiltheyareopaque.Seasontotaste,sprinklewiththecoriander,andservehotwithParsi-stylebrownrice.

KanavaThoran

[SPICYSQUIDWITHCOCONUT]

ThisdishfromKeralacanbeashotormildasyouwanttomakeit.Forahotterdish,increasethegreenchilliestofourandthepeppertotwoteaspoons.Indianseafoodrecipesaretypicallyhotandsour,temperedwiththesweetnessofonions,coconutorthefishitself.Youcanbuyready-cleanedsquidforthisrecipe.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING40minutes

2tablespoonscoconutorvegetableoil2mediumonions,thinlysliced1tablespoonginger-garlicpaste2freshgreenchillies,slitlengthways600gfreshsquid,cutinto1cm-thickrings10freshor15

driedcurryleaves1teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper1

teaspoongroundcoriander3tablespoonstamarindpulporshop-boughttamarindpaste3tablespoonsfreshlygrated

coconut(preferable)ordesiccatedcoconut(soakedinhotwaterfor20minutestosoften)salt

boiledrice,toserve

1Heattheoilinaheavy-basedfryingpanoverahighheatthenaddtheonions.Fryfor6–7minutesuntiltranslucent,stirringfromtimetotime,thenaddtheginger-garlicpasteandchillies.Fryforacoupleofminutes.2Tipinthesquidringsandfryforafewminutes,thenmixinthecurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter),groundspicesandseasonwithsalt.Coverthepanandcookfor5minutes.Thejuicesfromthesquidwillbereleasedbynow.3Stirinthetamarindandcoconut,pourin100mlwaterandbringtotheboil.Coverandsimmerfor5minutes,thenremovethelidandcookoverahighheattodryupanyliquid.Seasontotasteandservehotwithrice.

KonkaniChimboriMasala

[CRABCURRYWITHROASTEDCOCONUT]

Thisismygrandmother’srecipeanditremindsmeoflazySundaylunchesinMumbai.Shesaidthattheoilcarriedtheflavoursandthereforeyouneedtoputinabitmorethanyou’dexpect.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING40minutes

4freshcrabs(about200geach)4tablespoonsvegetableoil10blackpeppercorns6cloves2teaspoonscorianderseeds1largeonion,thinlysliced6tablespoonsfreshlygratedcoconut

ordesiccatedcoconut(soakedinhotwaterfor20minutestosoften)ahandfuloffreshcorianderleaves3freshgreenchillies

2.5cmpieceoffreshrootginger,scrapedandchopped4garliccloves,chopped1teaspoongroundturmeric2tablespoonstamarindpulporshop-boughttamarindpaste

saltboiledrice,toserve

1Cleanthecrabs.Breakoffthelegsandputtheminablenderwithenoughwatertojustcoverthem.Blitzforacoupleofminutes,thenstrainthroughasieveintoabowlanddiscardthecontentsofthesieve.Reservetheliquidtouseasstockinthecurry.2Heathalfoftheoilinadeep,heavy-basedfryingpanandaddthepeppercorns,clovesandcorianderseeds.Stirfor1minute,thenaddtheonionandfryfor8–10minutesuntilbrown.(Thecolourofthecurrydependsonthisbrowning.)Addthecoconutandstir-fryfor4–5minutesuntilbrown,takingcarenottoletthemixtureburn.Coolthemixtureslightlythentransferittoablender,addenoughwatertocoverthemixtureandblitztoapurée.Tipintoabowl.Thisisthebrownmasala.3Combinethecorianderleaves,chillies,gingerandgarlicandblitztoapuréealongwithalittlewatertoturntheblades.Thisisthegreenmasala.4Heattheremainingoilinalargeheavy-basedpanoverahighheatandaddthe

crabs.Fryfor4–5minutesuntiltheyturnred.Addtheturmericandseasonwithsalt.5Addthegreenmasalaandfryfor5minutes.PourinthebrownmasalaandthestockfromStep1andbringtotheboil,thenstirinthetamarindpulp.Addasplashofwaterifthecurryistoothick,reducetheheatandsimmerforabout10minutesoruntilthecrabsarecookedandthecurryisfragrant.Removefromtheheat,seasontotasteandservehotwithrice.

MacchiMasala

[NORTHINDIANFISHCURRY]

Inthenorth,manycurrieshavewarmingspicessuchascardamomandcloveswhereastamarindandcoconutaremorepopularinthesouth.Thesouthalsousesmorechilliandmustardseedsthanthenorthtomakedinersperspireandhelpthemcooldowninthescorchingsouthernheat.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING30minutes

2tablespoonsvegetableoil1onion,finelychopped1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste1teaspoontomatopurée2tomatoes,chopped2bayleaves3cloves3greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded1teaspoongroundcoriander1

teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder½teaspooncrushedblackpeppercorns600gfirm-fleshedskinlessfishfilletssuchassalmon,breamorhake2teaspoonslemonjuice

asmallhandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped,toservesaltboiledrice,toserve

1Heathalftheoilinasaucepanoveramediumheat,addtheonionandfryfor7–8minutesuntilverysoft.Addtheginger-garlicpastethenthetomatopuréeandtomatoes.Fryfor5minutesuntilmushy,thentransferthemixturetoablenderwithenoughwatertocoverandblitztoafinepurée.2Heattheremainingoilinafryingpanoverahighheatandaddthebayleaves,clovesandcardamomseeds.Whentheysizzle,addthegroundspicesandasplashofwater.Whenthewaterevaporates,thespiceswillhaveturneddarkandtheoilwillhaveseparated.3Pourinthepuréeandbringtotheboil.Rinseouttheblenderwithalittlewaterandaddthistothepan.Seasonwithsaltandaddthefish.Bringtotheboil,reducetheheatandsimmerfor7–8minutesuntilthefishistender.

4Seasontotaste,drizzleoverthelemonjuice,sprinklewiththecorianderandservehotwithrice.

MasorTenga

[TANGYFISHCURRY]

ThissignaturefishcurryfromAssamissimpleandflavourful.Itistraditionallymadewithaspiny,white-fleshedriverfishcalled‘rohu’or‘ruimaach’,whichisavailablefrozeninsomeBangladeshifoodshopsaroundtheworld.Ifyoucan’tgetholdofitthenyoucanusecoleyorbreaminstead.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING30minutes

4steaksoffirm-fleshedfish,suchasrohu,coleyorbream1teaspoongroundturmeric4largetomatoes2tablespoonsmustardoil½teaspoonfenugreekseeds2freshgreenchillies,slitlengthways2tablespoonslemonjuiceahandfulofchoppedfreshcorianderleaves,togarnishsaltboiledrice,toserve

1Rubthefishwithhalftheturmericandsalttoseason,thensetasidewhileyoupreparetheremainingingredients.2Cuteachtomatoinhalfandgratethecutsidesonthecoarsestsideofagrateroverabowl.Discardtheskin.3Heatthemustardoilinaheavy-basedfryingpantosmokingpoint,thenreducetheheatandfrythefishfor2–3minutesonbothsidestosealandpartiallycook.Removewithaslottedspoonandsetasidetodrainonkitchenpaper.4Addthefenugreekseedstothesameoil.Whentheychangecolour,addthechilliesandthegratedtomatoes.

5Mixintheremainingturmericandcookfor5minutesuntilthecurrythickensandthetomatoesarecooked.Pourin200mlwaterandthelemonjuiceandseasonwithsalt.6Whenthecurrybubbles,slipthefishinandcookfor8–10minutes(dependingonwhichfishyouareusing)overamediumheatuntilthefishistender.Seasontotasteandservehot,sprinkledwithcorianderleavesandwithricealongside.

MuttaiPoriyalAndeKiBhurjiKodiGudduBeerakayaKuraBaidaMasalaTamaterKaKutDimerJholBaideKaKheemaMuttaiKuzhumbuBaidaRashidaBheedaParEedaNargisiKoftaCurry

TODAYININDIAEGGSARESEENEVERYWHERE:INCURRIES,SCRAMBLEDWITHSPICESORSIMPLYBOILED,SLICEDANDEATENWITHSALTANDCHILLI.

Eggs,variouslycalled‘anda’,‘baida’,‘muttai’,‘deem’or‘guddu’inIndia,areconsideredtobenon-vegetarianandarethereforenoteatenbysomepeople,suchastheJainsorvegetarianHindus,forreligiousreasons.Classicvegetarianrecipeswouldneverevenuseeggsasbindingagents,asitwouldputsomepeopleoffeatingthesefoods.ThereisabigmarketforegglesscakesinIndia!

EggshavebeeneateninIndiaformanycenturies.TherearereferencestotheiruseintextssuchastheAin-i-Akbari(1590AD),thememoirsoftheMughalemperorAkbar,wherearecipefor‘Mussaman’containsfowl,mincedmeat,ghee,eggsandspices.

TheCharakaSamhita(c.900–600BCE),anancienttextaboutAyurveda,saysinitsFoodsandDrinkschapter,‘eggsofswans,chakora,hens,peacocksandsparrowsareusefulindiminishedsemen,cough,heartdiseaseandinjuries.Theyaresweet,notcausingburningsensationandimmediatelystrength-promoting.’Eggsarestillconsideredenergy-givingandacheapsourceofprotein.

Today,eggsareseeneverywhere:incurries,scrambledwithspicesorsimplyboiled,slicedandeatenwithsaltandchilli.IwastoldsometimeagothatwhendrivingthroughIndiantownsandvillages,ifyouseeastreetstallsellingboiledeggswithspices,thereiseverypossibilitythatthereisabarservinglocalliquorcloseby!Thesearebasicestablishmentsthatservecheapalcoholandquicksnacksandareoftenhiddenawayfrommainstreets.Insomerestaurantstheterm‘pureveg’isused–thismeansthattherearenoalcoholoreggsonthepremises.

InIndia,eggsaremostcommonlyassociatedwithIranicafésandtheParsicommunity.IranicafésweresetupbymigrantsfromIranwhocametoBombayinthenineteenthcenturyforeconomicreasons,muchlaterthantheParsiswhofledreligiouspersecutioninIran.Thecafés,withtheirdistinctivedécor,wereopenedonstreetcorners,asHindushopkeepersbelievedthemtobeinauspicious.TheancientHindusystemofVastuShastra(possiblydevelopedaround3000BCE)describesthe‘scienceofarchitecture’andsuggestshowtobuildlivingorworkingspacesinkeepingwithnature.Theshapeofaplotofland

buildlivingorworkingspacesinkeepingwithnature.Theshapeofaplotoflandwascrucialtothesuccessoftheowner–asquareplotwasconsideredlucky,whereasatriangularone,asonastreetcorner,wouldbringobstructionsinone’sbusinessandlife.Theseprinciplesarestillfollowedbytraditionaliststoday.However,theIraniansheldnosuchviewsandfeltthattheselocationswouldbegoodforbusinessascustomersfromtwostreetscouldseethesecafésandstarttofrequentthem.Theywereopen-fronted,welcomingplaces,suitedtothecommonman,typicallyfurnishedwithbentwoodchairs(supposedlytoouncomfortabletoallowonetolingeroverone’schai)andmarble-toppedwoodentables.Theownersatbehindacounterneartheentranceandatthebackwasthekitchenthatcreatedamenuthathaslastedtothisday,andisthemainstayofmanystudents’dietsinthecity.Oneofthemostpopularitemsonthemenustillremainstheomeletteor‘amlate’.Madebyaddingfinelydicedonionsandchilliestoeggs,it’soily,frillyandintenseandservedwithcrustybreadcalled‘pav’.Althoughnotagourmetdishbyanychef’sstandards,itisadelicacyetchedintothememoryofalmosteveryonewhospendstheirteenageyearsinMumbai.

TheParsisuseeggsinweddingritualsasfoodaswellasritualobjects.Aneggiswavedoverthegroomandsmashedtothefloor,signifyingthedestructionofevilforcesthatmaysurroundhim.Theircuisinehasmanydishesbasedoneggsor‘eedu’.OntheParsiNewYearday(‘Navroze’),IndianParsisserveatraditionalsweetcalled‘sev’,whichisvermicellicookedingheewithlotsofnutsandservedwithaboiledegg.MyParsifriendssaythateveryhomehas‘kanda,papetaandeedu’–onion,potatoandeggs–tocookupintoaquicktastymealforunexpectedguests.

CHOOSINGEGGSMostIndianrecipesusechickeneggsbutduckandquaileggsarebotheateninstatessuchasKerala,TamilNaduandMaharashtra.

Barneggscomefromhensthatarehousedinbuildingswithacoupleofstoreys,withenoughspacetomovearoundfreely.Free-rangeeggsarefromhensthatareletoutintotheopenduringdaylighthours.Organiceggsareproducedbyhensraisedonanorganicdietandallowedtoroamonorganicallyfarmedland.Iuseanyofthesebutdon’ttendtobuyeggsfromcagedhensforethicalreasons.InIndia,somepeopleinvillagesorsmalltownshipskeepchickensforeggsaswellasfortheirmeat.Often,insmallvillages,strictlyvegetariancommunitiessuchassomeHindus,liveadistanceawayfromnon-vegetariancommunities.

Oncebought,makesuretouseeggsbeforetheir‘bestbefore’date.Usethesemethodstotestiftheyarefresh:-Immersetheeggintoabowlofcoldwater.Iftheeggsinkstothebottomofthebowlandliesonitsside,itisveryfresh.Ifitsinksbutstandsononeend,itisstillfreshenoughtoeat.Iftheeggfloats,itisnotagoodideatoeatit.

-Whenyoucrackopenanegg,afirm,brightyolkindicatesfreshnesswhereasaflabbypaleonemeanstheeggisstale.

MuttaiPoriyal

[SOUTHINDIANSCRAMBLEDEGGS]

Thismakesaquickandeasydinnerservedwithrotiortoast.Indianrecipesoftenhavea‘tempering’,wherespices,herbsorlentilsarefriedinhotoilandpouredoverafinisheddishorstartthecookingofadish.Theadditionoflentilstothetemperingheregivestexturetothisdish.Itiseatenforbreakfast,withamainmealorasasnackbetweenmealsinTamilNadu.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING15minutes

4largefree-rangeeggs½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder½teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspoonfreshly

groundblackpepper1tablespoonvegetableoil1teaspoonbrownorblackmustardseeds1teaspoonsplit,skinlessblacklentils(uraddal),washedanddrained1onion,finelydiced

1freshgreenchilli,diced1tomato,dicedsaltRotisortoast,toserve

1Cracktheeggsintoamixingbowlandaddthechillipowderandgroundturmeric.Addthepepper,seasonwithsaltandbeatuntilfluffy.2Heattheoilinafryingpanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseeds.Whentheystarttopop,stirintheuraddal.Whenthedalbeginstoturnbrown,addtheonionandfryfor7–8minutesuntilsoft.Stirinthedicedchilliandtomatoandcookfor3–4minutesuntilverysoft.3Pourintheeggsandquicklyscramblethemwithaladle.Youcancookthemassoftorhardasyoulike,butmakesurethattheysetsothatthespicesgetcooked.Servehotwithrotisortoast.

AndeKiBhurji

[SPICYSCRAMBLEDEGGS]

ThisdishhasvariousnamesinIndia.TheParsiscallit‘akoori’,someMuslimcommunitiescallit‘khagina’,andotherscallit‘eggbhurji’.ItisapopularbreakfastorstreetfoodeatenwithWestern-stylebreadorIndianonessuchasrotis,parathasorpooris.Indiansgenerallyprefertheirfoodwelldoneastheyarenotfondofaslimytexture–scrambledeggswillalwaysbewellcookedandevenabithard.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING10minutes

6largefree-rangeeggs1tablespoonvegetableoil1largeonion,finelychopped1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste1–2freshgreenchillies,finelychopped(dependingonhowhotyouwantit)2tomatoes,

finelychoppedahandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,finelychoppedsaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

bread,toserve

1Seasontheeggswithsaltandpepperandbeatuntilfluffy.2Heattheoilinafryingpanoverahighheat,addtheonionandfryfor5–6minutesuntilsoft,thenaddtheginger-garlicpaste,chilliesandtomatoes.Cookforafewminutesuntilwellblended.3Addthebeateneggsandcorianderandcookoveralow–mediumheat,stirringthemastheycook,forabout3minutes.Indiancooksprefertheireggsverywelldonebutyoucanstopcookingthemassoonasyouachievethetextureyouprefer.Seasontotasteandserveatoncewithbread.

MASTERCLASS

TAMOTAPAREEDU–BakedEggswithTomato

MyfriendProchysaysthatwhenthenon-vegetarianParsisfledfromPersiatothewestcoastofGujarat,theyfoundalandwheremeatwasnotwidelyavailableandchickenswererearedonlyforhouseholdkitchens.Eggswereplentifulsotheycombinedvegetableswitheggstomakealargenumberofnewdishessuchasthis.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING45minutes

YOUWILLNEED:8ripe,redtomatoes,washedandscoredononeendwithan‘X’2tablespoonsvegetableoil2onions,finelydiced1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste1teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1tablespoonfinelychoppedfreshcorianderleaves1tablespoonmaltvinegar1teaspooncastersugar4largefree-rangeeggssaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperRotisorboiledrice,toserve

1Preheattheovento200°C/gasmark6.

2Bringasaucepanofwatertotheboilandblanchthetomatoesforacoupleofminutesuntiltheskinbeginstopeelaway,thenplungethetomatoesintocoldwaterandpeelofftheskins.Roughlychoptheflesh,retainingtheseeds.

3Heattheoilinafryingpanoverahighheat,addtheonionsandfryfor7–

8minutesuntilverysoft.Stirintheginger-garlicpasteandcookforacoupleofminutes,thenaddtheturmeric,chillipowderandcorianderleaves.Cookfor1minute,addthechoppedtomatoesandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Cookfor5–6minutesuntilthickandwellblended.

4Addthevinegarandsugarandcontinuecookinguntilthedishisalmostdry.Transfertoanovenproofflandishandmakefourevenlyspaceddipsinthemixturewiththebackofaladle.Breakaneggintoeachhollowandbakeintheovenfor20minutesoruntiltheeggshaveset.Removefromtheovenandservehotwithrotisorrice.

KodiGudduBeerakayaKura

[EGGANDRIDGEGOURDCURRY]

ThiscurryfromAndhraPradeshmakescleveruseofeggsandvegetables–ridgegourdor‘beerakaya’–inonerecipe.Youcanuseawateryvegetablesuchascourgetteifyoucannotfindridgegourd.Theridgesareslicedoffandcanbemadeintoadeliciouschutneytoserveontheside.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING25minutes

2tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspoonblackorbrownmustardseeds½teaspooncuminseeds8–10freshor10driedcurryleaves1teaspoonwhiteuraddal,washedanddrained1large

onion,finelydiced3garliccloves,finelydiced2freshgreenchillies,slitlengthways2ridgegourdorcourgettes,

peeledandcutinto3cmpieces1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongarammasala4largefree-rangeeggs,hard-boiledandshelled100mlfull-fatmilksaltboiledriceorRotis,toserve

1Heattheoilinafryingpanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseeds.Whentheybegintopop,addthecuminseeds,curryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter)anduraddal.2Whentheybegintodarken,tipintheonionandfryfor7–8minutesuntilverysoft.Stirinthegarlicandchillies.3Addtheridgegourdorcourgettes,turmericandgarammasala.Seasonwithsalt.Thegourdorcourgettewillreleaseitsjuicesasthecurrycomestotheboil.Reducetheheat,coverandsimmerfor10–12minutes,untilthegourdorcourgetteistender.4Makeshallowslitsalongthesidesoftheeggsandstirthemintothecurry.Pourinthemilk,bringtotheboil,seasontotasteandservehotwithriceorrotis.

BaidaMasala

[SIMPLEINDIANEGGCURRY]

ThisisoftenasimpleSundaynightdinnerinmyhome.Itisrealcomfortfoodwhenthefamilyisstillabitfullfromaheavylunch!Weeatitwithrotisbutitalsogoeswellwithriceorotherbreads.I’malwayssurprisedthatIndianrestaurantsdon’tservethisverypopularfamily-styledish–itjustgoestoshowhowdifferenthomeandrestaurantcookingstylesare!

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING25minutes

2tablespoonsvegetableoil½teaspooncuminseeds2largeonions,finelydiced1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste2freshriperedtomatoes,chopped,or½x400gcanofchoppedtomatoes1tablespoons

tomatopurée½teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongarammasala4largefree-rangeeggs,hard-boiled,shelledandhalvedasmallhandfuloffreshcoriander

leaves,chopped,togarnishsaltRotis,boiledriceorotherbread,toserve

1Heattheoilinafryingpanoverahighheatandaddthecuminseeds.Whentheystarttodarken,tipintheonionsandfryfor8–10minutesuntilverysoft.2Stirintheginger-garlicpaste,tomatoesandtomatopurée.Cookforacoupleofminutesthenaddthegroundspices.Mixwellandpourinacoupleoftablespoonsofwater(notneededifusingtinnedtomatoes).Bringtotheboilthenreducetheheatandsimmerfor4–5minutesuntiltheoilseparates.3Gentlyplacethehalvedeggsinthecurry.Heatthrough,seasontotaste,sprinklewiththecorianderandservehotwithrotis,riceorbread.

TamaterKaKut

[EGGSINTOMATOCURRY]

ThisfamousHyderabadidishisalsoknownas‘Andaykasalan’andisarichtomatoandeggcurryflavouredwithspices.Itiseatenwithrice,biryaniorbread.Iaddtomatopuréealongwithblanchedfreshtomatoesforadeepercolourandflavour,asinIndiathetomatoeswouldbesun-ripenedandmoreintenseinflavour.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING30minutes

2tablespoonsgramflour6largeripe,redtomatoes,washedandscoredononeendwithan‘X’,or1x400gcanof

choppedtomatoes2tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspooncuminseeds7–8freshor10driedcurryleaves2garliccloves,minced1tablespoontomatopurée1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongroundcoriander½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder4largefree-rangeeggs,hard-boiled,shelledandslitalongthesides1tablespoonchoppedfreshcorianderleaves,togarnishsaltboiledrice,biryaniorbread,toserve

1Heatafryingpanoveramediumheat,addthegramflourandtoastitfor8–10minutesuntilitchangescolour,stirringtopreventitfromscorching.2Meanwhile,bringasaucepanofwatertotheboilandblanchthescoredtomatoesforacoupleofminutesuntiltheskinbeginstopeelaway.Plungethetomatoesintocoldwaterandpeelofftheskins.Chopthetomatoesroughly,

discardingtheseeds,thenputthem(orthecannedtomatoes,ifusinginsteadoffresh)inablenderalongwiththetoastedgramflourandenoughwatertojustcoverthemixture.Blitztoafinepurée.3Heattheoilinafryingpanoverahighheatandaddthecuminseeds.Whentheystarttodarkenaddthecurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter).Tipinthegarlicandfryfor30secondsuntilgolden.4Addthetomatopuréeandfryforafewseconds,thenpourinthepuréefromtheblender.Rinseouttheblenderwithacoupleoftablespoonsofwaterandaddthistothecurry.5Sprinkleinthegroundspicesandseasonwithsalt.Bringtotheboil,stirringfrequentlytopreventtheflourinthesaucefromstickingtothebottomofthepan,andcookfor5–6minutes.6Whenthesaucehasthickened,tastethecurry.Youshouldn’tbeabletotasterawflour,andthecurryshouldhaveanuttyaroma.Addtheeggsandcontinuecookingforacoupleofminutes,thenremovefromtheheat,seasontotaste,sprinklewiththecorianderandservehotwithrice,biryaniorbread.

DimerJhol

[LIGHTBENGALIEGGCURRY]

Therearesomanyversionsofthiscurry–thinneronesarecalled‘jhol’andtheslightlythickeronesare‘dalna’.Bengalis,unlikemanyotherIndiancooks,fryhard-boiledeggswithalittleturmericandsaltbeforeaddingthemtoacurry.Thisgivesthemagoldenskinwhichisslightlychewy.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING45minutes

4largefree-rangeeggs,hard-boiled,shelledandeachslit4timesdownthesides2potatoes,peeledandquartered1teaspoongroundturmeric2tablespoonsmustardorvegetableoil2freshgreenchillies,slitlengthways2largeripetomatoes,halvedandgratedonthecutsides(discardtheskins)1teaspoongratedfreshrootgingerasmallhandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped,togarnishsaltboiledrice,toserve

1Rubtheeggsandpotatoeswithhalftheturmericandsalttoseason.2Ifusingmustardoil,heatittosmokingpointinafryingpanorheatthevegetableoil.Reducetheheat,addthepotatoesandfryfor7–8minutesuntiltheystarttoturngolden,thendrainandsetasideonaplatelinedwithkitchenpaper.3Frytheeggsinthesamepanfor4–5minutesuntiltheycrispupslightly.Drainonkitchenpaperandsetaside.4Frythechilliesintheoilfor30secondsuntiltheychangecolour,thenaddthegratedtomatoesandginger.Seasonwithsalt,bringtotheboiloverahighheat,thenaddtheremainingturmeric.Whenthemixturehasalmostdriedup,pourin100mlwaterandreturntotheboil.Theoilwillbegintoseparate.

5Returnthepotatoestothepanandcookfor20–25minutesuntildone.Testthisbyinsertingaskewerorsmallknifeintothethickestpartofapotato.Keepaddingwaterasnecessaryuntilthecurryhasapouringconsistency.6Addtheeggstothepan,heatthrough,seasontotasteandsprinklewiththecoriander.Servewithrice.

BaideKaKheema

[SPICEDMINCEDEGGS]

Thisstreetfoodsnackcanbeeatenasamainmealwithsomecrustybread.Youcanmakethecurryasthinorthickasyouwant–athinoneisdelicioustodunkyourbreadinto!Athickonecanberolledintoarotiwithsomesalad.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING25minutes

1tablespoonvegetableoil1bayleaf¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper2onions,finelydiced1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste1freshgreenchilli,diced1tablespoontomatopurée1tomato,diced½teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongroundcoriander4largefree-rangeeggs,hard-

boiledandshelledasmallhandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped,togarnishsaltcrustybreadorRotis,toserve

1Heattheoilinafryingpanoverahighheatandaddthebayleafandpepper.Whentheystarttosizzle,addtheonions.Cookfor7–8minutesuntilverysoft,addingapinchofsalttohastentheprocess.Tipintheginger-garlicpasteandchilliandcookfor1minute,thenstirinthetomatopuréeanddicedtomatoandcookfor2–3minutesuntilmushy.2Sprinkleinthegroundspicesandcookforacoupleofminutes,addingacoupleoftablespoonsofwatertopreventthemixturefromstickingtothebottomofthepan.Ifyouwantathinnercurry,addmorewater.3Whilethecurryissimmering,gratethehard-boiledeggs,chopthemveryfinelyormashthemwithapotatomasher.Addtheeggstothepanandseasonwithsalt.4Sprinklewiththefreshcorianderandservehotwithbreadorrotis.

MuttaiKuzhumbu

[EGGDROPCURRY]

ThissouthIndianrecipeusessplitgramlentils(chanadal)forthickening.Youcanaddvegetablessuchascourgettes,carrotsorpeasjustafteraddingthetamarindandcookthemfor8–10minutesuntiltendertomakethedishmoresubstantial.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,plus30minutessoakingtimeCOOKING40minutes

2tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspoonfennelseeds2driedredchillies,brokeninhalfandseedsshakenout1onion,sliced1tomato,chopped1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste1teaspoonsplitgramlentils(chanadal),washedandsoakedinhotwaterfor30minutes4

tablespoonsfreshlygratedcoconut1teaspoonblackorbrownmustardseeds7–8freshor10driedcurryleaves1tablespoontamarindpulporshop-boughttamarindpaste1teaspoongroundturmeric4largefree-rangeeggsasmallhandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped,togarnishsaltandfreshlygroundblack

pepperboiledrice,toserve

1Heathalftheoilinafryingpanoverahighheat,addthefennelseedsandredchilliesandfryfor30–40seconds.Whentheystarttochangecolour,addtheonionandcookfor7–8minutes.Whentheonionbecomestranslucent,addthetomatoandginger-garlicpaste.2Drainthechanadalandaddittothepan.Cookfor7–8minutesuntilthetomatoeshavecompletelydisintegratedandthelentilshavesoftened.3Tipthemixtureintoablenderalongwiththecoconutandenoughwatertocoverthemixture,andblitztoasmoothpurée.4Heattheremainingoilinafryingpanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseeds.Whentheybegintopop,addthecurryleaves(takingcareiftheyarefresh

astheywillsplutter)andtamarindpulp.Sprinkleintheturmericandacoupleoftablespoonsofwater.Cookoverahighheatfor2–3minutesuntiltheoilseparates.5Pourinthepuréefromtheblenderthenrinseouttheblenderwithalittlewaterandpourthisinaswell.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.6Gentlybreaktheeggsintothecurryoneatatimeandletthempoach.Donotstir.Coverthepanandcookfor3–4minutes.Assoonastheeggshaveset,removefromtheheat.Sprinklewiththecorianderandservehotwithrice.

BaidaRashida

[POTATOANDEGGCURRY]

ThisisadishwehadasaspecialtreatfromanearbyrestaurantwhenIwasgrowingupinBombay,whengoingtoarestaurantorgettingatakeawaywasnotascommonasitistoday.Thisismyversionofit,madeherewithpotatoes,ratherthanchicken,whichiswhattherestauranthadontheirmenu.Ilovethetextureoffluffypotatoescombinedwiththechewybitsofegg.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING40minutes

2potatoes,peeledandquartered1teaspoongroundturmeric2tablespoonsvegetableoil2.5cmpieceofcinnamonstick2onions,finelydiced2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste2tablespoonstomatopurée1teaspoongroundcoriander½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongarammasala2tablespoonssinglecream3largefree-rangeeggs,hard-boiled,shelledandfinelydicedafewsprigsoffreshcoriander

leaves,chopped,togarnishsaltParathas,RotisorNaans,toserve

1Rubthepotatoeswithhalftheturmericandsalttoseason.2Heattheoilinafryingpanoverahighheat,addthecinnamonstickandfryuntilitdarkens,thenaddtheonionsandfryfor7–8minutesuntilverysoft.Stirintheginger-garlicpaste,addthepotatoesandfryforafewminutesuntilgolden,reducingtheheattomediumiftheysticktothebottomofthepan.3Stirinthetomatopuréeandgroundspices,seasonwithsalt,pourin200mlwaterandbringtotheboil.Cover,reducetheheatandsimmerfor15–20minutesuntilthepotatoesarecooked,addingalittlewaterifthecurrybecomes

toodry.4Foldinthecreamandboiledeggsandseasontotaste.Bringtotheboil,sprinklewiththecorianderandservehotwithparathas,rotisornaans.

BheedaParEeda

[OKRAWITHEGGS]

ThisisanotherclassicParsidishthatcombinesvegetableswitheggs.Indiansdon’tliketheirokraslimyandthewaytoavoidthisistomakesurethattheokraiscompletelydrybeforecookingit.Somecooksbreaktheeggsovertheokra,leavingtheyolkswhole,someseparatetheyolksandwhites,beatthewhites,thenaddthemwiththeyolks,andothersmakethisversion,thatresemblesafrittata.Ilikethisversionasitmakesquiteaheartymeal,especiallywhenservedwithacoupleofbreadrolls.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING40minutes

300gokra,washedanddriedovernightsotheyarecompletelydry1tablespoonvegetableoil

1onion,finelydiced1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste½teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongroundcoriander4largefree-rangeeggs,beatenandseasonedwithsaltandpeppersaltandfreshlyground

blackpepperbreadrolls,toserve(optional)

1Topandtailtheokrathencuttheminto2.5cmpieces.2Heattheoilinafryingpanoverahighheat,addtheonionandfryfor7–8minutesuntilsoft.Addtheginger-garlicpasteandcookforafurtherminute,thenstirintheokra,seasonwithsaltandpepperandcookoveramediumheatfor8–10minutesuntilitstartstosoftenandchangecolour.Lookforaslightgivewhenyoupressapieceofokrawiththebackofaladle.3Sprinkleinthegroundspices,mixgentlyandcookforacoupleofminutesoveramediumheat.

4Transfertheokratoacleanfryingpanandpouroverthebeateneggs.Cookoveramediumheat,withoutstirring,untiltheeggsareset.Slicethefrittataandservehotwithbreadrolls,ifyoulike.

NargisiKoftaCurry

[CURRIEDEGGSENCASEDINLAMBMINCE]

ThisMuslimpartydishhasalayerofmeatneatlywrappedaroundaneggwhichisthendeep-fried.Asitcanbealittletrickytomake,itisreservedforfestiveoccasions,likemostfriedfoods.Nargisisthenarcissusflowerandthiskoftaislikenedtothebeautifulwhiteandyellowbloomagainstdarkbrownsoil.Thiscanbeservedwithapulaoriceornaan.

Serves4PREPARATION→20minutesCOOKING1hour

Forthekoftas500glambmince5largefree-rangeeggs,4hard-boiledandshelled,1beaten1onion,finelydiced1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste1freshgreenchilli,minced2teaspoonsgarammasala3tablespoonsgramflourvegetableoil,fordeep-fryingsaltForthecurry2onions,finelydiced1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste3ripetomatoesblitzedtoapuréeintheblenderor½x400gcanofchoppedtomatoes1

teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongroundcoriander1teaspoongroundcumin

3tablespoonsfull-fatyogurtafewsprigsoffreshcorianderleaves,chopped,togarnishPulaoRiceorNaans,toserve

1Combinethemince,beatenegg,onion,ginger-garlicpaste,chilli,garammasala,gramflourandsalttoseasoninamixingbowl.Dividethemixtureintofourequalportions.Takeoneportionofminceandwrapitevenlyaroundoneofthecooled,hard-boiledeggs.Repeatwiththeremainingminceandeggs.2Heattheoilinadeepfryingpanoverahighheat.Deep-frythekoftasfor5–6minuteseachuntilgoldenbrown.Removewithaslottedspoonandplaceonatraylinedwithkitchenpapertodrain.3Ladle2tablespoonsofoilfromthefryingpanintoaseparatepanoverahighheat.Addtheonionsandfryfor7–8minutesuntilsoft,thentipintheginger-

garlicpasteandthepuréedortinnedtomatoesandcookfor3–4minutes.Sprinkleinthegroundspicesandacoupleoftablespoonsofwater.Seasonwithsaltandcookoveramediumheatfor4–5minutesuntiltheoilbeginstoseparate.4Foldintheyogurt.Cuteachkoftainhalflengthwaysandplacetheminthecurry.Seasontotaste,bringtotheboilandservehot,garnishedwiththecoriander,alongsidepulaoriceornaan.

SweetKhoyaPakodewaliKadhiBesanNiKadhiPaneerJalfreziMuttarPaneerPalakPaneerPaneerKiBhurjiMorKulambuKalanShahiPaneerAvial

LASSIISMADEBYBLENDINGYOGURTWITHWATER,MILKANDSPICESANDISPOPULARACROSSSOUTHASIAANDWITHSOUTHASIANCOMMUNITIESACROSSTHEWORLD.

MilkiseateninsomeformineverypartofIndia.Milkisdrunkonitsownorflavouredwithspices,flowersandherbs.Itisalsomadeintoproductsthatarecurdled,asinpaneerorchhena,non-curdled,suchasgheeandkhoya(madebycookingmilkuntilitsolidifies),orfermented,asinyogurt.

ThereisevidencethatpeopleoftheIndusValleycivilisationbredcattle–theirfamoussealofahumpedbullhasbeenstudiedbyscholarsallovertheworldwhohavecometotheconclusionthattheseancientpeopleownedcattleformilkandmeat.

Vedicliteratureisfullofreferencestomilk.TheRigveda(c.1500–1200BC)says‘whostealsthemilch-cow’smilkaway,OAgni,–tearofftheheadsofsuchwithfiercefury.’TheSushrutaSamhita,asixth-centurytextaboutAyurveda,liststhemilkofseveralanimalsasbeinggoodforhealth.Theseincludecow,camelandelephant,butcow’smilkisconsideredthebest‘rasayana-dravya’–substancethatheals,rejuvenatesandprolongslife.

DairyproductshaveaspecialplaceinHindureligiousritual.Thecow,asagiverofmilk,isconsideredsacred.Inaritualcalled‘Abhisheka’,imagesoridolsofgodsandgoddessesarebathedwithwater,yogurt,milk,honey,rosewaterandperfume.Milkbecomesapartoftheblessedfood‘panchamrit’orfivenectars:milk,yogurt,honey,gheeandsugarsyrup.

RegionalfoodpracticesinIndiavarydependingonmanyfactors,includingtheclimate.InsouthIndia,whichisclosetotheEquator,yogurtiseatenwitheverymeal,whereasinnorthIndia,whichhascoolerweather,peoplebelievethatyogurtshouldnotbeeatenduringcoldevenings.Muchofthesouthernpeninsuladrinksalight,digestivedrinkcalled‘chaas’,‘mor’or‘taak’,whichismadewithyogurtandwater.Thenorthdrinksaheavierversionofthiscalled‘lassi’.Rajasthan,adesertstate,hascameldairyfarmsandthemilkaswellasmilkproductssuchasicecreamareconsumed.

Ayurvedasuggestsincompatiblecombinations–milkshouldnotbeeatenwithfish,forexample,astheyrequiredifferentratesofdigestion.MuchofIndia’smilkcomesfrombuffalos.Buffalomilkhasahigherfatandproteincontentbutlesscholesterolthancow’smilk.Itisheavierandthereforekeepsyou

contentbutlesscholesterolthancow’smilk.Itisheavierandthereforekeepsyoufeelingfullforlonger.

MILKISEATENINSOMEFORMINEVERYPARTOFINDIA.ITISMADEINTOPRODUCTSTHATARECURDLED,ASINPANEERORCHHENA,NON-CURDLED,SUCHASGHEEAND

KHOYA,ORFERMENTED,ASINYOGURT.

CREAMCreamisconsideredaluxuriousingredientinIndiancooking.Itisreservedforfestiveorpartydishesandrestaurantfare.ContrarytothebeliefintheWestthatmanyIndiancurriescontaincream,itisusedverylittleineverydayhomecooking.Aspecialtreatmaybecreammixedwithsugarandspreadontoast,called‘malaitoast’,butthisisnotaregularbreakfast.

Inrestaurantcurries,theword‘shahi’orroyal,oftendenotesthepresenceofcream.ShahiPaneer,ShahiKoftaandShahiTukde,abread-baseddessert,areallrichandcreamydishes.

MostmilkinIndiaisdeliveredeachmorningtoyourdoor.Asitisahotcountry,ithastobeboiledbeforebeingcooledandrefrigerated.Thecoolingmilkdevelopsaskinofcreamcalled‘malai’or‘saay’andthefattierthemilkis,thedenserthislayerwillbe.Buffalomilkproducesathicklayerofcream.Whenthismilkisrefrigerated,thelayerofcreambecomesevendenser.

BUTTERHomemadebutter,called‘makhhan’or‘loni’,isadelicacyinIndia.Itissoftandwhiteandistraditionallyeatenwithbreadslike‘Makkekiroti’(Punjabicornbread)or‘Bhakri’(Maharashtrianmilletbread)–seeBajreKiBhakri.

ItismentionedinmanyfolkstoriesandisbelievedtobethefavouritefoodofIndia’smost-lovedHindugod,Krishna.Storiesofhimstealingbutterfromhismother’skitchendelightdevoteesalthoughthereisadeeperspiritualsignificance.Butteristheessenceofmilkandsymbolisesthecoreofourbeings.Inrelishingit,Krishnasaysweshouldgodeepintoourselvesandunderstandthepuritythatliestherein.

AlthoughpacksofcommercialyellowbutterareavailableinIndia,manyhomesalsomaketheirown.Thisisbecausehomemadebutterisfurthercookedintoghee.

Creamor‘malai’iscollectedoverafewdaysandastartercultureofyogurtisaddedtoit.Whenthefull-fatyogurthasset,itischurnedwithawoodeninstrumentcalleda‘ravi’,‘mathani’or‘ghotni’.Thisisaslimstickwitha

instrumentcalleda‘ravi’,‘mathani’or‘ghotni’.Thisisaslimstickwithawoodenstar-shapedchurningbitononeend.Thestickisheldbetweenthepalmsandrolledinsmallsemi-circularmovements.Wherethequantityofcreamislarge,thestickiscoiledintoaropethatispulledoneendatatimetocreatethesamemovement.

ThismovementseparatesthebutterandinIndia,theliquidleftbehindisbuttermilkcalled‘chhaas’or‘mattha’.Thisissometimesusedtomakeayogurtcurrycalled‘kadhi’ordrunkonitsown,seasonedwithsaltorflavouredwithfreshcorianderandchilli.

GHEEGheeisclarifiedbutterthatismadebycookingbuttertoevaporateanymoistureandcaramelisethemilksolidsthatcanbestrainedoff.InIndia,ghee(‘ghrita’inSanskrit)hasbeenregarded,sinceVedictimes,asanunparalleledcookingfat.Hindusconsiderfiretobethepurestelementandgheebytheverynatureofitbeingcookedoverfiremakesitrituallypure.

TraditionalHinducookerydifferentiatesbetween‘kaccha’and‘pukka’foods,kacchabeingthosethatwerecookedinwaterandweretobeconsumedinthekitchen.Pukkafoodswerecookedingheeandcouldbetakenoutofthekitchenforpublicconsumption.Theseruleswerebasedmoreonhealth,hygieneandpracticalitybut,intime,becamereligiouspracticesofpurity.Thisiswhytemplefoodsthataredistributedtodevoteesorsweetsthatcanbeboughtfromshopsarecookedingheeandareoftenverysweet.

Ayurvedichealingconsidersgheetobestrengtheninganddigestive.Somewesternresearchshowsthateatingalittlebitofghee,typicallylessthanacoupleoftablespoonsaday,canreducetheriskofcardiovasculardisease,butincreasingthisamountcanleadtoelevatedcholesterollevels.Atanyrate,eatinggheeinahottropicalclimateandacoldonemustmakeadifferenceasitis,afterall,asaturatedfat.Imakegheewithbutterfromgrass-fedcowsasthisprovidesgoodlevelsofomega3.

ManypeopleoutsideIndiabelievethatallgoodIndiancookingmustbeginwithgheebutthisisamyth.MostIndiancooksuseplantoilsforeverydaycookingandusesmallamountsofgheeasadrizzlingfatoverriceandbreadorforspecialsweetsanddesserts.

OneofmybestfoodmemoriesisofcominghomefromschoolinBombaytoahousethatsmelledofheaven.Mygrandmotherwouldbemakingghee,the

ahousethatsmelledofheaven.Mygrandmotherwouldbemakingghee,thescentofwhichwaspure,butteryandrich.Shewouldsometimesaddafreshturmericleaforabetelnutleafforflavour.Freshturmericleaveshaveafloralfragrancewhilebetelnutonessmellgrassy.Today,thebestthingaboutmakinggheeisthatwonderfularomathattakesmestraightbacktomychildhood.

YOGURTYogurt,‘dahi’or‘tayir’asitiscalledinIndia,isintegraltoIndianfood.MostIndianseatitseveraltimesaweekifnoteveryday.NorthIndiansmakelassiorraitaoreatitwithbreadscalledparatha,whereasinthesouththeyfinisheachmealwithtayirandrice.InIndia,yogurtisalsocalledcurd.UnlikeintheWest,wheremilkiscurdledwithacidtoformcurdinthefirststeptowardsmakingcheese,curdinIndiareferstohomemadeyogurt.

Thetasteandtextureofyogurtisimportant.Themostpreferredoneismildlytartbutwithasweetnessthat‘quenchesthethirst’.Itshouldbethickandnotwatery.ThemicroflorainyogurthelpdigestionandinmanypartsofIndia,amealisconcludedwithathindrinkcalled‘chaas’madebymixingalittleyogurtwithwater.‘Chaas’isalsothenamegiventothebuttermilkleftbehindwhenbutterischurnedoutofyogurtorcream.

YogurthasbeeneateninIndiasinceprehistorictimes.TheRigvedamentionsitasmixedwithgroundmeal:‘Theother(PusantheNourisher)longsforcurdandmeal’.TheArthashastra(c.350–283BCE),atreatiseonstatecraft,adviseshowtodealwithspieswhoofferyoupoisonedcurd,andmarinatingmeatwithcurdismentionedintheAin-i-Akbari,theMughalemperorAkbar’smemoirs.

PANEER/CHHENAPaneeristhemostcommonlyusedcheeseinIndiancooking.Itisanunaged,non-melting,salt-freecheesethatismadebothathomeaswellascommercially.

TheexactoriginofpaneerinIndiaisunclear.ItwaspossiblythePortuguesewhointroducedtheartofcheesemakingintoBengal,althoughreferencestocurdledmilkpreparationscanbefoundinthetwelfth-centurytextManasollasabyKingSomeshwara,whoruledpartsofsouthIndia.ThePortuguesestrongholdwasalongthewestcoastofIndia,wheretheirinfluencecanbeseeneventodayinplaceslikeGoa,buttheyalsohadsettlementsinBengalwhichneverbecamereallyimportant.

TheManasollasamentionsrecipesaddingbuttermilktoslightlywarmedmilkandthenpouringalltheseparatedmilkintoacloth,tyingandhangingtheparcelsothatallthewaterdripsdown.Themethodinwhichmilkwascurdledvariedthroughtheages.

TheBandelcheese,introducedbythePortuguese,wasmadeintheirsettlementofthesamename,about30milesnorthofKolkattainBengal.Thisunripenedcow’smilkcheesewasmadebyseparatingthecurdwiththehelpoflemonjuice,thendrainingitinperforatedpots.Itwassometimessmokedbutalwayshadlotsofsaltaddedtoittoincreaseitsshelflife.Bandelcheeseisstillmade,butproductionhasmovedtoTarkeshwarandBishnupur,bothadistanceawayfromKolkatta.

SurtipaneerismadeinthewesternstateofGujarat–thisiscoagulatedwithrennetandmaturedinitswhey.Itismostlysoldlocally.

Freshcheeseiscalled‘chhena’or‘chhana’,nottobeconfusedwithchanaorchickpea.TheBengalisfoundthattheunsaltedcurdcouldbekneadedandmadeintovarioussweetsbyaddingsugarandspicesand,today,Bengalimilksweetsaresomeofthebest-knowndessertsinthecountry.

When‘chhena’,whichiscrumbly,ispressedunderheavyweights,itlosesmostofitsmoisturetobecomeafirm,densecheesecalledpaneer.

Today,cooksinmanypartsofnorthIndiamake‘chhena’athomeanduseitindishessuchasBhurji(scrambled)–orsweetssuchas‘rasmalai’,orbuyready-madepaneertouseindishessuchasSaagPaneerwherespinachiscombinedwithafirmercheese.Theterm‘paneer’isappliedlooselytohomemadechhenaaswell,andthisismadebysplittingmilkwithanacidicliquidsuchaslemonjuice,vinegarorcitricacid.PaneerisamostlynorthIndianfood,usedinhomecooking.OvermostofIndia,commercialpaneerisexpensiveandislargelyusedinfestivefeastsasavegetarianoption.Itcanbestoredinthefridgefor3–4daysorfrozenforupto1month.

KHOYAVariouslyknownas‘khoya’,‘khava’,‘khoa’,‘mava’or‘khuvaa’,thisismadebycookingfull-fatmilk,eithercow’sorbuffalo’s,untilthemoistureevaporatesandconcentratedmilksolidsareleftbehind.Itisusedtothickensomerich,festivecurriesandmoreimportantlyformakinghomemadeandcommercialsweetscalled‘mithai’and‘burfi’.Thetechniqueofboilingthemilkoverawell-

called‘mithai’and‘burfi’.Thetechniqueofboilingthemilkoverawell-regulatedheatisimportantsothatthemilkdoesnotcarameliseorburn.Purekhoyaiswhiteorpaleyellowincolour.Equallyimportantisthestirringandscrapingthesolidsfromthesidesofthepanbackintothemixture.

Traditionallykhoyacanbemadeinthreeforms–‘battikhoya’isthehardest,‘daan-e-daar’(‘granular’)ismediumsoftandchewy,and‘chikna’(‘sticky’)hasthehighestmoisturecontent.Quick,modernversionsincludethecombinationofcondensedmilkwithcreamormilkpowder.Themilkiscookedintothesevariousformsdependingonthefinalproductitwillbeusedfor.

BattiKhoya→Alsocalledpindikhoya,thisisformedwhenthemilkisreduceduntilitisverydry.Itisthenrolledintoadough,orblocksthatcanbegrated.ThedensetexturemakesitperfectforsweetssuchasGulabJamun,whereitismixedwithwheatflourorsemolina,friedassmallballs,thensteepedinsweetenedrosewater.

Daan-e-daarkhoya→Thisformismoisterthanbattiandismadebystoppingthecookingbeforethemixturereachesthe‘batti’stage.Sweetssuchas‘kalakand’aremadebycombiningthiskhoyawithsugar,spicesandnuts,makingthemostofthegranulartexture.

Chiknakhoya→Thisisthemostmoist,stickyformofkhoya,alsoknownas‘dhap’.Itismadebystoppingcookingearlierthanforbattiordaan-e-daarkhoya.Itssmoothconsistencyisusedinrecipesfor‘halwa’orfudgeandmilkydesserts.

MASTERCLASS

HOWTOMAKEBUTTER

FROMMILKSKIN

1Pour2litresoffull-fatmilkintoaheavy-basedsaucepanandbringtotheboil.Removefromtheheat,leavetocoolcompletelyandrefrigerateforafewhoursuntilwellchilled.Thiswillhelptocreateadenser‘skin’ontopofthemilk.

2Removethemilkfromthefridgeandgentlyskimofftheskinor‘malai’intoanotherbowl.Youwillneedtodothiseverydayfor3–4daysuntilyougetenough‘malai’.Theamountofskinyougetwillofcoursedependonthefatcontentinthemilkyouareusing.

3Beatorwhiskthe‘malai’untilyouseeitseparatingintosolidbutterandamilkyliquid.Thebutterwillfloattothetopinlittlecloudybits.Strainthemixturethroughasievetocollectthebutterandrinsethisunderagentlyrunningcoldtap.Squeezethebutterwithyourfingersorthebackofspoontogetridofthemoisture.Thelesswetthebutter,thebetteritwillkeep.Refrigerateandconsumewithinacoupleofdays.

FROMYOGURT

1Refrigeratethe‘malai’(cream).Keepgoingforafewdaysuntilyouhaveenough.Bringthecreamtoroomtemperatureandaddacoupleofteaspoonsofyogurtculture.Keepthebowlinawarmplaceovernighttosetthecreamintoyogurt.

2Usingachurningstickorwhisk,churntheyogurtuntilthebutterfloatstothetop.Strainthisout,reservingtheliquidwhichisculturedbuttermilk.Washthebutterundercoldrunningwaterandrefrigerate.Washingoutthebuttermilkwillpreventearlyspoilage.Youcandunkthebutterintoabowlofcoldwaterwithsomeicecubestofirmitupandmakewashingeasier.InIndia,someofthisbutteriskepttoeatwithbreadswhiletherestisturned

intoghee.

FROMCREAM

1Putacartonofdoubleorwhippingcreamintoalargebowlandbeatwithahand-heldelectricwhiskorregularwhiskuntilitthickensandbutterbeginstoform.Refrigerate.

MASTERCLASS

HOWTOMAKEGHEE

Cuttingthebutterintocubeswhenmakinggheeensuresthatitmeltsquicklyandevenly.

COOKING30–40minutes

YOUWILLNEED:250gunsaltedbutter(getthebestgrass-fedororganicbutter),cutintosmallsquares–aheavy-basedsaucepan–alargespoon,forstirring–muslincloth–sieve–a250mlclean,sterilisedglassjar

1Meltthebutterinthesaucepanoveramediumheat,stirringitfromtimetotime.Youshouldseethickwhitefoamdevelopingontopoftheyellow,opaquebutterbeneath.Keepstirringuntilthebutterbeginstosimmer,thenreducetheheat.

2Simmerfor4–5minuteswithoutstirring.Thebubbleswillincreaseinsizeandnumberandbecomeclearer.Themilksolidswillstarttosticktothesidesandbottomofthepan.Scrapethesebackintothepantopreventthemfromburningandturningthegheeadarkcolour.

3Thebutterwillbegintobecomeclearandthesolidswillsitatthebottom,thenthebubbleswillbecomeclearerandtherewillbelittleornowhitefoamleft.

4Thebutterwillstarttoturnacleargoldenyellowwhilethemilksolidsatthebottombegintodarken.Stirafewtimestostopthesolidsfromburningandkeepaclosewatch.Thebutterwillfoamupasecondtimewhichindicatesthatitisreadytobestrained.

5Placeamuslin-linedsieveoveraheatproofjugandstrainthegheeintothejug.Leaveittocoolslightlythendecantintothesterilisedglassjar.Squeezethemilksolidsinthemuslingentlyastherewillstillbealotofgheeinthem.Thesesolidsaresometimesmixedwithsugarandeatenwithrotis,butIjustdiscardthem.

6Transferthegheetothefridge.Itwillkeepwellforafewmonths.

MASTERCLASS

HOWTOMAKEYOGURT

AlmosteveryIndianhomemakesyogurtonadailybasis.Commercialpotyogurtsareavailableonlyinsomeplacesandtheyareexpensive.Inatropicalclimate,settingyogurtdoesnottakemorethanafewhours.Incoldercountries,thiswilltakelongerandbesuccessfulonlyifthemilkisplacedinawarmplace.Peoplebelievethattheover-processingthattakesplaceintheproductionofcommercialproductscankillthevitalbacteriapresentinyogurtthatmakesitsoimportantforgooddigestion.

YOUWILLNEED:200mlfull-fatmilk2tablespoonslivebioyogurt,atroomtemperature

1Pourthemilkintoasaucepanandwarmitonlyuntilitishandhot.

2Puttheyogurtinabowlandaddacoupleoftablespoonsofthewarmedmilktoit.Mixwell,thenpourintheremainingmilkandstir.

3Coverthebowlandputitinawarmplace–thisiscrucial–forafewhours,undisturbed,untiltheyogurthasset.Thetimeittakestosetwilldependmainlyonthequalityoftheyogurtcultureandthetemperature.

MASTERCLASS

HOWTOMAKECHHENA–Paneer

Homemadepaneeriseasytomakeandismoredeliciousandsoftthancommerciallyavailablepaneer.

Makesabout200gchhena(dependingonthefatcontentofthemilk)PREPARATION→3hoursdrainingtimeCOOKING10minutes

YOUWILLNEED:about1litrefull-fatmilkafewtablespoonsoflemonjuice(about2lemons)–a

heavy-basedsaucepan–alargepieceofmuslin–adeepbowlorbucket–ladleorwoodenspoon

1Pourthemilkintothesaucepanandbringittotheboil.Turntheheatoffandaddthelemonjuice.Youwillneedtoaddasmuchlemonjuiceasrequiredtoseparateoutthesolids,whichwillrisetothetop,leavingbehindatranslucent,milkyliquid.Iusuallyneed1½lemons.

2Linethebowlorbucketwiththemuslinandgentlypourinthecontentsofthesaucepan.Liftupthemuslinandtietheedgestomakeatightparcelofcheese.Discardtheliquidcollectedinthebowl.

3Pushthewoodenspoonorladlethroughtheknotinthemuslinandhangtheparceloverthebowlorbucket,makingsurethattheparceldoesnottouchthebottom.

4Allowthewheytodrainoffforabout3hours,thenunwrapandstorein

anairtightcontainer.This‘chhena’willkeepinthefridgeforacoupleofdays.

5Youcancutthisintosoftchunksorforadensertexture,pressthechhenaundertheheaviestobjectinyourkitchen–mineisalarge,granitepestleandmortar–foracoupleofhours.

MASTERCLASS

HOWTOMAKEKHOYA

KhoyaisusedasabaseformanyIndian‘burfies’orfudge-likesweetsandcanbeflavouredwithnuts,suchaspistachiosoralmonds,ordriedfruit,suchasfigsanddates.

Makesabout250gkhoyaCOOKINGabout2hours,dependingonpanandheatsourceused

YOUWILLNEED:1.25litresfull-fatmilk–aheavy-based,preferablynon-stick,fryingpan–asiliconeorwoodenspatulaorspoon

1Pourthemilkintothefryingpanandbringtotheboil.Thewidthofthepanwillallowfasterevaporationofthemilk.Whenitcomestotheboil,reducetheheatandsimmer,stirringfrequentlytopreventitfromboilingover.

2Asthemilkbeginstothicken(afterabout40minutes),scrapethesolidsfromthesidesbackintothepanwithaspatulaandstir,topreventthemilkfromburningatthebottom.

3Withinabout1hour,themilkwillappeartohavebitsinit–thisisthemilksolidifying.Continuecookingoveralow–mediumheat,stirringfrequently.

4Asthemixturedriesup,youwillseesmallbubblesonthesurface–thisistheremainingmoisturedryingup.Stircontinuously.Assoonasthebubbles

havesubsided,removethepanfromtheheat.Scrapethecontentsofthepanintoaheatproofbowlandleavetocool.

5Refrigerateandusewithin2days.Itwillthickenslightlyoncooling.

SweetKhoya

[VARIATION]

Aquickwaytomakesweetkhoyafordesserts.

250gmilkpowder7tablespoonscondensedmilk

1Combinetheingredientsinaheavy-basedsaucepanandcookoveramediumheatfor5–6minutesuntilthemixtureblendstoformaball.Coolandusewithintwodays.

PakodewaliKadhi

[YOGURTCURRYWITHFRIEDDUMPLINGS]

ThisdishisfromthenorthofIndia,andisespeciallylovedinPunjabandUttarPradesh,althoughotherpartsofIndiaalsomakeyogurt-basedcurriessuchastheBesanNiKadhimadeinGujarat.‘Kadhis’arequicktoprepareandcanbemadewithingredientssuchasgramflour,yogurtandspicesthatmostIndiankitchenshavereadilyavailable.Thisiswhytheyaresopopular.Itisservedwithriceandhotmangopickle.The‘pakode’ordumplingsthatgointothecurrycanbemadewithavarietyofvegetablessuchasspinach,gratedcarrots,fenugreekleavesorcauliflowerflorets.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING40minutes

300gnaturalyogurt1freshgreenchilli,finelychopped½teaspoongroundturmeric2teaspoonscastersugar250ggramflourvegetableoil,fordeep-frying1teaspooncuminseeds,plusextraforthedumplings10black

peppercorns6cloves1mediumonion,finelychopped1teaspoondriedfenugreekleaves(kasoorimethi)1

tablespoongheeoroil½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowdersaltboiledriceandhotmangopickle,toserve

1Whisktheyogurtwiththegreenchilli,turmeric,sugar,salttoseasonand300mlcoldwater.2Heatafryingpanoveramediumheat,add100gofthegramflouranddry-toastitfor8–10minutes,stirringtostopitscorching,untilitisslightlydarkincolour.Whiskthisintotheyogurtmixture,makingsuretherearenolumps.3Heat2tablespoonsofoilinaheavy-basedpanoverahighheatandaddthecuminseeds,peppercornsandcloves.Frythespicesforafewsecondsthengivetheyogurtmixtureagoodstirandpouritintothepan.Bringtotheboil,reduce

theheatandcookfor12–15minutes,stirringfrequently,untilitreachestheconsistencyofathickbatterandtherawflouraromahasgone.Removefromtheheatandsetaside.4Forthedumplings,combinetheremaininggramflour,onion,fenugreek,apinchofcuminseedsandadd70–80mlcoldwatertomakeathickbatter.Thebattershouldjustaboutdropoffaspoon.5Heatenoughvegetableoilfordeep-fryinginaheavy-basedpanoverahighheat.Whenitstartssmoking,reducetheheatanddropin2–3separateteaspoonsofbatteratatime.Fryfor3–4minutesuntilgolden,removewithaslottedspoonanddipintoabowloftepidwaterfor1minutetosoftenthemabit.Squeezeoutthewaterandaddthedumplingstotheyogurtcurry.Repeatuntilyouhaveusedupallthebatter.6Heatthegheeoruseatablespoonoftheoilusedfordeep-fryingthedumplingsinasmallpanandaddthechillipowder.Assoonasthespicesizzles,pourthismixtureoverthecurryandservewithoutstirringwithriceandhotmangopickle.

BesanNiKadhi

[GUJARATI-STYLESWEETANDSOURYOGURTCURRY]

Gujarati-styleKadhiismadewithyogurtandgramflourbutusuallyitislighter,whiterandsweeterthanthenorthIndianversion.GujaratliesonthecoastinwesternIndiaandhasveryhotsummers.Foodsneedtoberatherheavilysaltedtoreplacethesaltlostinperspirationandspicedtocountertheheatasspicespromoteperspirationandhelptocoolthebodydown.Inordertobalancethesestrongflavours,Gujaraticooksaddsugarorjaggerytomuchoftheirfood.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING25minutes

2heapedtablespoonsgramflour300gnaturalyogurt2tablespoonscastersugar1teaspoonchilli-gingerpaste(1freshgreenchilliand1.5cmpieceoffreshrootgingerpoundedtogetherinapestleandmortarorveryfinelychopped)1tablespoonvegetableoil1teaspoonfenugreekseeds3cloves

½teaspooncrushedblackpeppercorns10freshcurryleaves3driedredchilliessalt

1Heatafryingpanoveramediumheat,addthegramflouranddry-toastitfor8–10minutes,stirringtostopitscorching,untilitisslightlydarkincolour.Whiskthisintotheyogurt,makingsurethattherearenolumps(strainitthroughasieveifnecessary).Addthesugarandthechilli-gingerpastealongwithenoughwatertomakeapouringconsistency,andseasonwithsalt.2Transfertheyogurtmixturetoasaucepanandcookoveralow–mediumheat,stirringconstantly,for10–15minutesuntilthickandcreamy.Donotallowtheyogurttoboil.Simplywhiskthesaucebrisklyifthecurrylookslikeitiscurdling.3Forthetempering,heattheoilinasmallpanoverahighheatandaddthefenugreekseeds,clovesandpeppercorns.Whentheystarttosizzle,addthecurryleaves(standingbackfromthepan,astheywillsplutter)andchilliesandpourintothecurry.Servewarm.

PaneerJalfrezi

[PANEERWITHGREENPEPPERS,ONIONSANDTOMATOES]

Thisisarestaurant-styledish,madeeitherinatomatoandonioncurrysauceorasasemi-drysidedishlikethisrecipe.Itlooksfestiveandcolourfulandisagoodadditiontoapartymealwhenentertainingfriends.Useshop-boughtordensehomemadepaneerforthis,asitneedstoholditsshape.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING25minutes

2tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspooncuminseeds1largeonion,thinlysliced1tablespoonginger-garlicpaste1teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongroundcoriander2peppers(oneredandonegreen),deseededandthinlysliced250gpaneer,cubed1tomato,slicedverticallysmallhandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped,togarnishsaltandfreshlygroundblack

pepperRotisorParathas,toserve

1Heattheoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheat,addthecuminseedsandfryfor30secondsuntilslightlydark.Addtheonionandfryfor7–8minutesuntilsoft.2Addtheginger-garlicpasteandfryforafewsecondsuntilwellblended,thensprinkleinthegroundspicesandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Cookoveralowheatforafewsecondsthenaddacoupleoftablespoonsofwater.Continuecookingforafewminutes,stirringfromtimetotime,untiltheoilbeginstoseparate.3Addthepeppers,stirandcookforabout8minutesuntiltheyaresoftenedbutstillholdtheirshape,thenaddthepaneerandmixwell.Addtheslicedtomato,cover,andcookforacoupleofminutesuntilsoftbutnotmushy.4Removefromtheheat,garnishwiththefreshcoriander,andservehotwith

rotisorparathas.

MuttarPaneer

[INDIANCOTTAGECHEESEWITHPEAS]

AclassicnorthIndiandish,thistastesbestwhenthepaneerislightlyfriedbeforeaddingittothecurry.Youcanusefreshorfrozenpeas(adjustthecookingtimesaccordingly).

Serves4PREPARATION→5minutesCOOKING20minutes

2tablespoonsvegetableoil150gpaneer,cubed1teaspooncuminseeds½teaspoondriedfenugreekleaves(kasoorimethi–optional)1largefreshgreenchilli,slitlengthways1tablespoontomatopurée½teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongroundcoriander200ggreengardenpeas(freshorfrozen)pinchofcastersugarahandfulofchoppedfreshcorianderleaves,togarnishsaltRotis,toserve

1Heathalftheoilinanon-stickfryingpanoverahighheat,addthepaneerandlightlyfryfor1–2minutesoneachside.Transfertokitchenpaperandleavetodrain.2Addtheremainingoiltothepan,addthecuminseedsandfryuntiltheydarkenslightly,thensprinkleinthefenugreekleaves(ifusing).3Tipinthechilliandtomatopurée,sprinkleinthegroundspices,stirafewtimesandpourin100mlwater.Bringtotheboilthensimmerfor4–5minutesuntiltheoilbeginstoseparate.

4Addthepeasandcookfor6–7minutes(longerifusingfresh)untiltender,addingmorewaterifnecessarytocookthepeas.Seasonwithsaltandaddthesugar.5Foldinthepaneerandsimmerforacoupleofminutes,thenremovefromtheheatandservehot,sprinkledwiththefreshcoriander,withrotisalongside.

PalakPaneer

[SPINACHWITHPANEER]

Thisiscalled‘saagpaneer’innorthIndiaandinmanyrestaurants.Youcanusefrozenspinachinsteadoffresh.SomecookslightlyfrythepaneerbeforeaddingitbutIpreferthisversionwherethecreaminessofthespinachmatchesthesoftnessofthepaneer.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING25minutes

450gfreshspinach,washedanddrained(orfrozenspinach)2tablespoonsvegetableoil½teaspooncuminseedslargepinchofdriedfenugreekleaves(kasoorimethi–optional)1largeonion,finelychopped1tablespoonginger-garlicpaste2largetomatoes,roughlychopped½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder½teaspoongarammasala225gpaneer,cubedsaltRotisorboiledriceandTarkaDal,toserve

1Putthespinachinaheavy-basedpanoverahighheatwith3tablespoonsofwaterandwiltfor5minutes.Leavetocoolslightlythenblitzinablenderalongwiththecookingwatertoformathickpurée.Setaside.2Heattheoilinaheavy-basedpanoverahighheat,addthecuminseedsandfryuntiltheyturnslightlydark,thentipinthefenugreekleaves(ifusing).Addtheonionandfryfor7–8minutesuntilsoft,thenstirintheginger-garlicpasteandtomatoesandcookoveralowheatfor5minutesuntilsoft.Stirinthespicepowdersandacoupleoftablespoonsofwaterandcontinuecookingforafew

minutesuntiltheoilbeginstoseparate.3Pourinthespinachpurée,seasonwithsalt,reducetheheatandgentlyaddthecubedpaneer.Simmerfor1minutethenremovefromtheheat.Thepaneerwillsoftenintheheat.Servehotwithroti,orasanaccompanimenttoriceandTarkaDal.

PaneerKiBhurji

[SPICYSCRAMBLEDPANEER]

Thisisaquick,creamydishthatcanaddproteintoavegetarianmeal.Makeitasspicyasyouwish,byincreasingthenumberofchillies.ThisdishisfromnorthIndiawherepaneerisanimportantpartofthecuisine.ThePunjabisconsidermilktobeenergisingandassociateitsproductswithgood,healthyeating.Yogurt,lassi(madebythinningyogurtwithabitofwater)andpaneerarealleatenonaregularbasis.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,pluschhena/paneermakingtime(seehere)COOKING15minutes

1tablespoonvegetableoil½teaspooncuminseeds1smallonion,finelychopped2freshgreenchillies,finelychopped½greenpepper,

deseededandfinelydiced2tomatoes,chopped1teaspoongroundturmeric200gfreshly-madechhenaorpaneerafewfreshcorianderleaves,choppedsalt

1Heattheoilinasaucepanoverahighheatthenaddthecuminseedsandfryforaminuteorsountiltheyturndark.Addtheonion,chilliesandgreenpepperandcookfor6–7minutesuntilsoft.2Stirinthetomatoesandturmericandcookforabout3minutesuntilwellblended.3Addthechhenaorpaneerandcookoveralowheatforafewminutes,scramblingitintothemixtureuntilwarmedthrough.Season,stirinthefreshcorianderandservehot.

MorKulambu

[YOGURTCURRYWITHOKRA]

ThiscurryhasdifferentversionsindifferentsouthernstatessuchasTamilNaduandAndhraPradesh.InTamilNadu,anativevegetable–‘sundaikkai’orpeaaubergine–issometimesadded.Thisberry-likevegetablegrowsinclustersandlookslikegreenpeas.InAndhraPradesh,localchilliesareaddedtomakeaspiciercurry.Sometimesvegetableslikeokra,aubergineoronion,orevenfrittersmadeofflourandonion,similartoanonionbhajia,areaddedtomakeitmoresubstantial.

Serves4PREPARATION→20minutes,includingsoakingtimeCOOKING35minutes

2teaspoonscorianderseeds1teaspoonsplitgramlentils(chanadal)1tablespooncoconutoil1teaspoonblackorbrownmustardseedslargepinchoffreshcurryleaves250gokra,top

andtailedandcutinto1cmpieces1teaspoongroundturmeric2freshgreenchillies100ggratedfreshorfrozencoconutthumb-sizedpieceoffreshrootginger,scrapedand

chopped250gnaturalyogurtsaltboiledrice,toserve

1Soakthecorianderseedsandlentilsinalittlewarmwater.2Meanwhile,heattheoilinasaucepanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseeds.Whentheystarttopop,addthecurryleaves(standingbackfromthepan,astheywillsplutter)andtheokra.Seasonwithsaltandstiroveramediumheatwithoutanywaterfor8–10minutesuntiltheokraistender.Sprinkleinhalftheturmericandcookforafurtherminute.Youshouldbeabletocutthroughapieceofokrawithaspoon.3Drainthecorianderseedsandlentilsandputtheminablenderalongwiththechillies,coconutandginger.Addenoughwatertobarelycoverthemixtureandblitztoafinepurée.Pourintheyogurtandstirintheremainingturmeric.

4Heatthemixtureinapanoveramediumheatuntilyouseethefirstbubblesappearonthesurface.5Removefromtheheatandstirintheokra.Servehotwithrice.

Kalan

[YOGURTANDCOCONUTCURRY]

ThisdishfromKeralaisalwaysincludedina‘sadhya’ortraditionalfeastthatisservedonabananaleaf,especiallyduringtheHinduriceharvestfestivalofOnam.ThebestplantaintouseistheKeralaNendran,whichisfirmanddoesnotsquashdowneasily.Itcanbereplacedwithotherfirmplantainsoryam–thiswilltakelongertocook–orripemangoes(leavetheskinonandcookforacoupleofminutesoverahighheat).

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes(longerifyouaregratingthecoconutfromscratch)COOKING25minutes

2plantain,peeledandthicklysliced1teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder150gfreshlygratedorfrozencoconut2freshgreenchillies(seedsandall)1teaspooncuminseeds

7–8freshor10driedcurryleaves200gnaturalyogurt2tablespoonscoconutoil1teaspoonblackorbrownmustardseeds½teaspoonfenugreek

seeds3driedredchilliessaltboiledrice,toserve(optional)

1Puttheplantaininasaucepanoverahighheatwiththeturmeric,chillipowder,salttoseasonandjustenoughwatertocover.Bringtotheboil,reducetheheatandsimmerfor7–8minutes.2Putthecoconut,greenchillies,cuminseedsandhalfthecurryleavesinablender,addenoughwatertocoverthemixture,andblitzuntilyouhaveaveryfinepurée.Pouritintoabowlandstirintheyogurt.3Stirthecoconutandyogurtmixtureintothepanwiththecookedplantainandcookoveramediumheatuntilitbeginstobubble.Seasonwithsalt.4Heattheoilinasmallpanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseeds.Whentheybegintopop,tipinthefenugreekseeds,redchilliesandremainingcurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter).

5Pourthisoiloverthecurryalongwiththespices.Servehotwithriceorasasidedishtoacurry.

ShahiPaneer

[RICHCREAMYPANEERCURRY]

Shahimeans‘royal’andthisisessentiallyanorthIndianrestaurantorpartydishduetoitsrichness.Itismildandpalewiththerichnessofnuts,cream,saffronandspices,allhallmarkingredientsofMughlaicookingwhichthisdishformsapartof.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING40minutes

2onions,thinlysliced3tablespoonsunsaltedcashewnutslargepinchofsaffron100mlsinglecream2tablespoonsvegetableoilorghee4cloves1smallcinnamonstick2bayleaves3greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste2freshgreenchillies,slitlengthways350gpaneer,cubed1teaspoongarammasala50gfull-fatyogurtsaltNaansorPulaoRice,toserve

1Puttheonionsandcashewnutsinasaucepanwithjustenoughwatertocover.Bringtotheboilthenreducetheheatandsimmerfor15minutesuntilverysoft.Coolslightlythenblitztoapuréeinablenderalongwiththecookingliquiduntilsmooth:itwilllookcreamyandpale.2Combinethesaffronandcreaminasmallsaucepan.Heatgentlyforafewminutesuntilthecreamhasturnedpaleorange,thenremovefromtheheat.3Heattheoilorgheeinasaucepanoverahighheatandaddallthewholespices.Whentheystarttosizzle,stirintheginger-garlicpasteandgreenchillies.Stiracoupleoftimesandaddthepaneer.Fryuntillightgolden.4Afteraminute,pourinthepalesaucefromtheblenderandbringtotheboil.

Stirinthesaffroncreamandgarammasala,andseasonwithsalt.Cookforacoupleofminutes.5Addtheyogurt,bringuptoalmostboilingpointandremovefromtheheat.6Servehotwithnaansorpulaorice.

Avial

[MIXEDVEGETABLESINCOCONUTANDYOGURT]

ThisrecipeisservedaspartofanOnamfeastinKerala.OnamusuallyfallsaroundAugust/September.TherecipefeatureslocalvegetablesthatcanbefoundinsouthIndianshopsaroundtheworld,includingdrumstick,whichisalongbean-likevegetablethat’scutinto4cmlengthsandcookedandservedinitsskin.Wheneatingit,youbreakthetenderstickinhalf,scoopoutthesoftfleshfrominsideanddiscardthechewyskin.

Serves4PREPARATION→25minutesCOOKING45minutes

300gmixedrawvegetables,suchascarrots,greenbeans,rawbanana,redpumpkin,yam,drumstick1teaspoongroundturmeric100ggratedfreshorfrozencoconut2freshgreenchillies

½teaspooncuminseeds10blackpeppercorns150gnaturalyogurt,seasonedwithsalt1tablespooncoconutoil10freshcurryleavessaltboiledrice,toserve

1Chopallthevegetables,exceptthebeansanddrumstick,intoeven-sizedcubessothattheycookevenlytogether.Cutthedrumstickorgreenbeansinhalf.Putallthevegetables,exceptthebeansandyam,inapanwithenoughwatertojustcoverthem,thenaddtheturmericandseasonwithsalt.Bringtotheboil,reducetheheatandsimmerfor8–10minutes.Addthebeansandyamandcontinuecookingfor6–7minutesuntilallthevegetablesarealmostdone.2Meanwhile,blitzthecoconut,chillies,cuminseedsandpeppercornstoapuréeinablenderwithalittlewater.3Whenthevegetablesarealmostdone,addthispuréetothepan.Bringtotheboil,thenreducetheheatandpourintheseasonedyogurt.Simmerforacoupleofminutes,addthecoconutoilandcurryleavesandstir.Removefromtheheatandservehotwithrice.

TarkaDalAamtiPoonduRasamPoosanikaiSambharBengaliCholarDalGujaratiDalMatkichiUsalBhunaLobiaValacheBirdeCholayRajmaTamaterChanyachiAmtiVellarikkaKootuSabutMasoorKiDalPalakDalBootorDaliDalitoyBhajaMugerDalSindhiDalPanchmelDal

DALISTHESTAPLEFOODALLOVERINDIAANDISEATENWITHRICEORROTIS.THISFAIRLYINEXPENSIVECOMBINATIONOFDALANDRICECANSUSTAINALARGE

VEGETARIANPOPULATIONQUITEEASILY.

LentilsareancientfoodsandwereeateninIndiainprehistorictimes.‘Masura’orredlentilsarementionedintextsdatingbackto800BC.‘Mudga’ormungoriginatedinIndiaandismentionedintheYajurveda(c.1200–100BCE)alongwithwheat,sesame,riceandbarley.

Lentilsarecalled‘dal’inmanypartsofIndia.Theworddenotestherawproductaswellascookedlentils.Theyareessentiallycarbohydrateandproteinwithnofat.Indiaisoneofthelargestgrowersoflentilsintheworldbecauseofidealclimaticconditionsaswellasthehighdemandforthem.Indiansconsumethemonadailybasisbecausethey’resoreadilyavailable,cheapandfilling,andastheybulkuponcooking,alittlegoesalongwayinfeedingthewholefamily.

DalisthestaplefoodalloverIndiaandiseatenwithriceorrotis.Theaminoacidscysteineandmethioninemissinginlentilsareprovidedbygrains,andthelysinethatislimitedingrainsissuppliedbylentils.Lycineisanaminoacidthatisessentialinthebiosynthesisofproteins.Thehumanbodycannotsynthesiseitsoitmustbeacquiredfromthediet.Therefore,thisfairlyinexpensivecombinationofdalandriceformsapowerhouseofcompleteprotein,thatisanadequateproportionofallthenineessentialaminoacidsneededbyhumans,andwhichcansustainalargevegetarianpopulationquiteeasily.

Theword‘dal’isquiteconfusingbecauseitislooselyusedforalargegroupoflentils,pulsesandlegumes,bothcookedanduncooked.Lentilsarelegumesthatareshapedlikeaconvexlens,whereasbeansarebigger.Thetermalsoincludesbeanslikekidneybeans,chickpeasordriedpeas,allofwhicharegrownandeateninIndia.EveryIndianfoodshopIhavebeentohasquiteafewshelvesstackedwithlegumes.RegionalIndiancuisinesreflectwhatisgrownlocally–soKashmiricookingusesredkidneybeansthataregrowninabundancethere.‘Moth’beansarepopularinRajasthan,GujaratandMaharashtrawherethey’regrown.Someofthemostpopularlentilsandbeansarelistedbelow.

Indiandalsareavailableinthreemainforms:WholePulse(SabutDal)→Thisisthewholebean,asinmungbean(green),

urad/uridbean(black),masoor(brownlentils)sowillbecalled,forexample,‘sabutmungkidal’.SplitPulse(Chilka)→Thisisthesplitbeanwiththeskinon,suchasmungdalchilka.HulledPulse(DhuliHuiDal)→Thisisthesplit,skinnedbeansuchasmungdal(theseareyellowwhenthegreenskinisstrippedaway),uraddal(whentheblackskinisremoved,thelentilwithiniscreamywhite)ormasoordal(redlentilswhichareinsidethebrownskin).

Pulsesaremostoftencookedintoastew-likepreparationcalleddalbutarealsousedtomakedessertslike‘puranpoli’wherecookedandsweetenedlentilsarelayeredbetweenfineflourpancakes,orsnackssuchas‘dhokla’,aspongy,savourycaketemperedwithmustardandcumin.

Theyareusedforbattersasin‘dosa’orsouthIndianpancakesortothickencurriesasin‘kadhi’,ayogurtandgramflourpreparation.

Thewholebeansandthesplitonesarequitedifferentandarenotalwaysinterchangeable,socheckwhattherecipeasksforbeforebuying.Youcanstoretheminanairtightcontainerforupto6months.Sometimeslentilscanbeinterchangeable,aslongasyoukeeptothesamesize.

RED/ORANGELENTILS(MASOORDAL)Orangelentilsaretheseedsofabushyplantandgrowinlongpods.Whenleftwholethelentilsaredarkbrowntogreenish-blackincolour,roundandflattish.Thefairlythickskinconcealsapinkish-orangecentre.Theselentilsaredelicate

inflavourandhaveanutty,freshtaste.Thewholelentilsaremuskier,chewyandcoarser.

YELLOWLENTILSMungBeans(Moong)→Mungbeans,orgreengram,areveryversatile.‘Beansprouts’,commonlyavailableeverywhere,areactuallysproutedmungbeans.

Wholemungbeans,orgreengram,aresmall,ovalandolive-greenincolour.Whensplit,theyaresmall,flattishandyellow.Wholemungbeanshaveastrongerflavourandtexturethanthesplitones.Theyareratherchewyandmusky.Theyellow,splitmungbeansareextremelyeasytocook,neednosoakingandareeasytodigest.

Theyareusedforbothsweetandsavourydishesandareeasytosproutathome(seehere).

PigeonPea(ToororArharDal)→InsomepartsofIndia,yellowlentilsareslightlyoiledtoincreasetheirshelflife,moresowhenthelentilsareexported,andthereforeIndianshopsoutsideIndiausuallystocktheoilyvarietyofyellowlentilsaswellasnon-oily.

Theselentilsareyellowandsoldsplitintotworoundhalves.Theoilyvarietyisstickyandglossy;thenon-oilyoneismatte.Theyareveryeasytodigestandhaveapleasant,nuttyflavour.Theytakelongertocookthanredlentilsandcanbesoakedforanhourorsotohastenthecookingprocess.

Ifyoubuyoilyyellowlentils,soaktheminboilinghotwaterforawhileandthrowawaytheresultingcloudy,whiteliquid.Thenwashthelentilsseveraltimestogetridofmostoftheoil.

GramLentils(ChanaDal)→Gram,orBengalgramasitisalsoknown,isthemostwidelygrownlentilinIndia.Theyarehuskedandleftwhole,splitorgroundintoaflourcalledbesan.Thisflourisusedtomakebatter(asinfritters),asathickeningagentincurriesoriscookedwithjaggerytomakemanydifferentsweets.

Matteandyellow,gramlentilsresembleyellowlentilsbutareslightlybiggerandcoarser.Theyarestrongerintastethanmostotherlentils,withanuttysweetaromaandflavour.Soakingthemfor1hourinhotwaterwillreducetheircookingtime.

cookingtime.

URADDALThisisalsoknownasblacklentilorgramandisthesamesizeandshapeasthemungbean.IthasbeenusedinIndiasinceancienttimesasisevidentfromtextswhereitisreferredtoas‘maasha’.Ithasanearthyflavourandwhencookeddevelopsacreamy,slipperytexturethatisprizedinrecipessuchasthenorthIndian‘dalmakhani’.

CHICKPEAS(CHANA)Therearetwomainvarietiesofchickpeas:white(kabulichana)andbrown(strangelycalledkalachanaorblackchickpeas).

Thesepeasaresmall,hardandhaveathickskin,whichoftencomesawayduringsoakingandcooking.Ontheirown,chickpeashavelittlearomaortaste,butwhencookedwithflavouringsandspices,theytakeonanutty,creamyflavour.

Chickpeasareavailabledriedorcookedandtinnedinbrine.Somecooksswearbysoakingandcookingthemathome,butIusecannedchickpeastosavetime.Driedchickpeasneedtobesoakedinwateratroomtemperatureforatleast8hours,afterwhichtheynearlydoubleinsize.

Thedarkvarietyisdarkbrown,smallandhardandhasastrong,earthyaroma.Theyhaveathickskinandapleasant,nuttyflavourandarealsoavailabletinned.

VALTendervalpodsareeatenasafreshvegetable.Driedvalbeansarecreamy-whitetolighttanincolour.Theyhaveathick,whiteridgeononeside.Oncooking,valacquiresastrong,nuttyaromaandthetastebecomescreamywithaslight,butnotunpleasant,bitterness.

Valneedssoakinginwaterovernightasitisquitehard.Itisusuallysproutedtoenhanceitsflavour.Thebeansneedtobepeeledtoremovethethick,chewyskin,thentheyarereadytobecooked.

MOATH(MATKI)YouwillseetheseinIndianshopsas‘moth’beansbutthepronunciationis‘moat’.Thesearesmall,elongatedbeanswithabrownskinandabrownish-

yellowinteriorandtheyhaveanutty,mildlybittersweetflavourandastrong,earthysmell.Theyareoftensproutedtomakeadrysidedishorservedonbutteredtoastforbreakfast.

BUTTERBEANS(PAVTA)Butterbeansarelarge,creamy-whiteandflattish.Theyhaveamedium-thickskin.Thenameshowsthebean’smostobviouscharacteristic:abuttery,smoothtaste.Theyhaveapleasant,nuttyaroma.

Youcanbuythemdriedorincans.Cansaretime-savingthoughthebeansmaybeabitsoftanddisintegrateonfurthercooking.DriedbeansarebetterforintenseIndiancookingtechniquesorifusingcannedones,addthemattheverylastminute.

REDKIDNEYBEANS(RAJMA)ThePortuguesebroughttheredkidneybeantoIndiaalongwithotherstaplessuchastomatoandchilli.

AtthetemplededicatedtothegoddessVaishnoDeviinKashmir,amosaicofroadsiderestaurantswelcomesvisitorswithatraditionalmealofkidneybeansandrice.

Youcanbuybagsofdriedbeansorthecannedones.Ifusingdriedbeans,makesuretosoaktheminwaterfor8–10hours,discardthesoakingwaterandcookthemverywellastherawbeansaretoxic.Therecommendedtimeforboilingthemis1hour,oruntiltheycanbesquashedbetweenthethumbandafinger.Cannedbeanscanbeusedstraightawaybutitisagoodideatorinsethemfirsttogetridofthesaltandthickliquidtheyarein.Indiankitchenshavepressurecookerstocooklentilsandbeans.

DRIEDPEAS(MUTTER)ThepeaplantisbelievedtohaveoriginatedinwesternAsiaandwaslatercultivatedbytheGreeks,RomansandPersians.Thethreecommonlyusedvarietiesofpea–black,whiteandgreen–aresmall,roundandsmooth.Reconstitutedpeas(soakedandboiled)haveanearthysmellandtastequitedifferentfromfreshones.

Driedpeasmustbesoakedinwaterfor8–12hoursbeforeuse.

BLACK-EYEDBEANS(LOBIA/CHAWLI)

BLACK-EYEDBEANS(LOBIA/CHAWLI)Theselarge,oblongbeansarecreamy-white,withablack‘eye’ononeside.Theskinisquitethick.Theyhaveasubtle,nuttyaromaandarich,creamytastethatisslightlyearthy.

Oldbeanssometimesgetarusty-browntingeandbecomewrinkled,sochoosethosethatareplump,evenandunbroken.Youcanbuythemcannedbutrinsetheminasievebeforeusingthem,togetridofexcesssalt.

1Mutter;2Mung;3Matki;4Rajma;5Toor/AharDal;6Val;

7Lobia;8Mung–hulled;9UradDal;10ChanaDal;11MasoorDal;12LobiaChawli;13Pavta.

MASTERCLASS

HOWTOCOOKLENTILS

Thethreeformsoflentils–wholebeans,‘chilka’,andskinless,splitones–alltakedifferentlengthsoftimetocook.Thetimewillalsodependontheheatsource–whetheryouareusing,forexample,agashob,anelectriccookerorinductionheat.Theshapeandsizeofyourpanwillalsomakeadifference–awide,shallowpanwillencouragefasterevaporation,soyouwillneedtoaddmoreliquidwhilecooking.

SOAKINGWholebeans,whethertheyarebiglikeredkidneybeansorsmalllikemung,allbenefitfromsoaking,asthecookingtimereducesandtheycooksofter.Althoughmanyrawbeanscontainthetoxinphytohaemagglutinin,aproteinalsoknownaskidneybeanlectin,kidneybeanscontainthehighestlevels.Cookedbeansalsohaveitbutinmuchlowerandharmlesslevels.Soakingandcookingthebeansfullyensuresthatnoharmfulsideeffectsoccur.

Usingcannedbeansisaperfectlygoodalternativeandasafewaytoenjoybeansifyou’renotsureaboutcookingdriedonesorwanttosavetime.

Driedkidneybeans,especially,mustbesoakedforaminimumof6

Driedkidneybeans,especially,mustbesoakedforaminimumof6hours.Otherbeansalsocookbetterwithlongsoakingtimes.Drainawaythesoakingwater,rinseandthencookthebeans.

Amongstthesplitlentils,Ifindthatsoakingchanadalandtoordalhelpstocookthemfaster.Redlentils,mungdalandsplituraddaldonotneedtobesoaked.

RINSINGIt’sbesttorinseanddrainlentilsbeforeusing,toremovesomeofthestarch.Rinseundercoldrunningwateruntilthewaterturnsfrommilkytoalmostclear.

COOKING

1Startbyaddingdoubletheamountofwaterbyvolumetothedal.Youneednotmeasurethis;thewatershouldberoughlyacoupleofcentimetresoverthelentils.

2Bringthewatertoarapidboilthenreducetheheattoagentlebubbleandcontinuecooking.Youcancoverthepantoreducethecookingtimebutleaveitpartiallyuncoveredtostoptheliquidfromboilingover.Youmayfindthat,dependingonthesourceofheat(gas/electric/bigring/smallring)aswellasthepan,youneedtoaddmorewaterasthelentilscook.Remembertoaddonlyenoughwatertokeepthelentilssubmerged.Youcanaddhotwaterfromakettleorjustpourincoldwaterandincreasetheheattobringittotheboil.Reducetheheatagainandcontinuesimmering.

3You’llfindthatafrothyscumrisestothetopwhenlentilsandbeansarecomingtoaboil.Youcanskimthisoffwithaslottedspoon.Assoonasyouhavereducedtheheattoasimmer,thescumformationreduces.

4Lentilsare‘done’whentheyhaveplumpedupanddisintegratedintoamush.Wholebeansorpulseswillnotfallapartduringcooking–theyshouldsoftenjustenoughtofallapartonthemeresttouch,sothattheycanbeeatenwithriceorscoopedupwithapieceofroti.

Idon’taddsaltoracidicfoodsliketomatoesorlemonjuicetolentilswhentheyarecookingasIfinditmakesthelentilstakelongertocook.Iseasonthemwhentheyarestillwarm,whenIaddtherestoftheflavouring.

THERIGHTCONSISTENCYVariousregionaldalrecipeshavedifferingconsistencies.APunjabi‘DalMakhani’isquitethick,whereasasouthIndian‘rasam’issoup-like.Dalisalwayseatenwithabreadsuchasroti,orwithrice.Itisthemoist‘sauce’thatgoeswithadrycarbohydratedish.Youcandecideontheconsistency;myeverydaydalhasapouringconsistency.

Youwillfindthatadalwillthickenasitsitsaftercooking,soifyouaremakingitinadvance,youcanaddasplashofwatertobringitbacktothecorrectconsistencybeforeserving.Makesuretocheckandadjusttheseasoningdependingonhowmuchwateryou’veadded.

USINGLENTILSDIGESTIBILITY→Forpeoplenewtobeansandlentils,theycansometimesbedifficulttodigestorcauseflatulence.Startbyeatingsmallamounts.SoakingallbeansandlentilshelpstomakethemmoredigestibleandinIndia,mostbeananddalrecipeswillhavetheadditionofawonderful,powerfullysulphuric-smellingspicecalledasafoetida.Apinchofthisyellowpowder,knownas‘hing’inIndia,addsacurry-likeflavourtothedishandgreatlyimprovesdigestibility.Sproutingbeansalsohelp.

SPROUTING→Theprocessofsproutinginducesariotofbio-chemicalchangesinwhichcomplexcomponentsbreakdownintosimplersubstancesthatareeasytodigest.SproutedlegumeshavehigheramountsofvitaminC,ironandcalciumthanthosethatarenotsprouted.

SproutedbeansareanessentialpartofIndianvegetariancookery.Cooksoftenhavesomebeanssoakinginacornerofthekitchenandtheseareeatencookedwithspicesorlightlysteamed.

Beanswilltakedifferentamountsoftimetosproutdependingonavarietyoffactors,suchastemperature,light,moistureandthecontainerused.Startbysoakingthebeansinwateratroomtemperatureforatleast6hours.Drainawaythewaterthentietheminamuslinclothorputtheminasproutingjar.Iuseasmallstainless-steelboxwithholesinit–thisistraditionallyusedinIndiatostoreherbsinthefridge.Putthebeansinadarkplacetosprout.Youwillhavetorinsethemeveryday,oracoupleoftimeseachdayinveryhotweather,andputthembackintheirdrainingposition.Inacoupleofdaystheywillbegintosprout.Assoonaslittlewhiteshootsappear,theyarereadytobecooked.

MAKINGALENTILBATTER→InsomepartsofIndia,lentilsaremadeintoabatter.First,thelentilsaresoakedforatleast6hourstosoftenthem,thentheyareblitzedwithalittlewaterinablenderuntiltheyturnintoapurée.Thisismadeintofritterscalled‘vadas’,pancakescalled‘dosas’orcakescalled‘idlis’.

TarkaDal

[LENTILSWITHONIONSANDCORIANDER]

TherearemanyversionsofthisnorthIndianrecipe,asthenameliterallymeansspiced,flavouredlentils.ImakemyTarkaDalasbelowbecauseit’seasy,unfussyandtasteslightanddelicious.The‘tadka’,couldincludeavarietyofspicessuchascloves,cinnamon,fenugreekseeds,curryleavesorherbs.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING45minutes

200gredlentils,washedanddrained2tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspooncuminseeds1largeonion,diced2garliccloves,finelydiced1tomato,finelychopped2freshgreenchillies,slitlengthways1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongarammasala,plusextratoserveahandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped,togarnishsaltRotis,toserve

1Putthelentilsanddoublethevolumeofwaterinaheavy-basedsaucepanandbringtotheboil,thenreducetheheatandsimmerfor30minutesuntilsoftandmushy,skimmingthescumoffthesurfacefromtimetotime.Youmayneedtoaddasplashofwaterifthedalbecomestoodry.2Meanwhile,heattheoilinafryingpanoverahighheatandaddthecuminseeds.Whentheystarttocrackle,addtheonionandstirfor7–8minutesuntilgolden.Stirinthegarlicandcookfor2–3minutesuntilbrown.

3Addthetomato,chillies,turmericandgarammasalatothepan,seasonwithsaltandcookfor3–4minutesuntilsoft.Carefullypourinthecookedlentilswiththecookingliquid,stirandseasontotaste.4Servehot,sprinkledwiththecorianderandgarammasala,withrotisalongside.

Aamti

[MAHARASHTRIANLENTILSWITHASAFOETIDA]

Igrewupeatingthisdeliciousdishwithriceandghee.Ithasnoonionorgarlictooverwhelmthecleantasteofthetoordal,whichareslightlysweetandearthy.Thedalisflavouredwithfreshcorianderand‘godamasala’,whichisadark,sweetspiceblendmadebytoastingfragrantspicessuchascinnamon,clovesandcardamomwithdesiccatedcoconut,thencrushingeverythingtoafinepowder.Youcanleavethisoutforalighterdish.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,plus1hoursoakingtimeCOOKING50minutes

150gtoordal,soakedinwateratroomtemperaturefor1hour,thenwashedanddrained1teaspoonvegetableoil½teaspoonmustardseeds1teaspooncuminseeds

pinchofasafoetida8freshor12driedcurryleaves2freshgreenchillies,slitlengthways½teaspoonground

turmeric1teaspoongodamasala(optional)1largetomato,choppedasmallhandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,finelychopped,togarnishsalt

1Washthelentilsinseveralchangesofwaterthenplacetheminaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheatwithdoublethevolumeofwater.Bringtotheboilthenreducetheheatandsimmerfor40minutes,addingmorewaterasnecessary,untilsoftandmushy,skimmingthescumoffthesurfacefromtimetotime.2Heattheoilinsmallsaucepanoverahighheatandfrythemustardseedsuntiltheystarttopop,thenaddthecuminseeds,asafoetida,curryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter)andchilliesandcookfor10–15seconds.3Addtheturmeric,godamasala(ifusing)andtomato.Cookforacoupleofminutesuntilthetomatosoftens,thenstirthemixtureintothecookedlentils.

Seasonwithsaltandaddenoughwatertomakeapouringconsistency.Simmerfor1minuteandservehot,sprinkledwiththecoriander.

MASTERCLASS

DALMAKHANI–Creamy,ButteryBlackDal

ThisrichandindulgentdalisatruenorthIndianrestaurant-styledish,andisalsocalled‘kalidal’or‘maadidal’.Somerestaurantscookitinthetandoor,whichgivesitauniquesmokyflavour.Thelongeryoucooktheblackbeans,thecreamiertheybecome.‘Makhan’isbutterandthisdalcanbeflavouredwithgheeorbutter–thefinalconsistencyshouldbesoftandbuttery.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,plusovernightsoakingtimeCOOKING1hour15minutes

YOUWILLNEED:1largeonion,finelychopped1tablespoonginger-garlicpastelargepinchofasafoetida1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongarammasala150gwholeuradbeans,soakedinwaterovernight,rinsedanddrained2tablespoons

doublecream2tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshcorianderleaves2tablespoonsghee,butteror

vegetableoil2garliccloves,finelychopped2largetomatoes,choppedsaltboiledrice,ParathasorNaans,toserve

1Putalltheingredientsfromtheoniontothebeansinaheavy-basedpanwithenoughwatertocoverthemixtureby2.5cm,andbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmerfor1hourormore,untilthebeansarewellcooked,creamyandalmostdissolving,addingwaterasnecessary,tokeep

thebeanscovered.

2Removefromtheheat,stirinsalttoseason,thecreamandcorianderleaves.

3Heattheghee,butteroroilinafryingpanoverahighheatandfrythegarlicfor1minuteuntilgoldenbrown,thenaddthetomatoesandfryforafewminutesuntilsoft.Stirthismixtureintothelentils.

4Servehotwithrice,parathasornaan.

PoonduRasam

[LIGHTLENTILSOUPWITHGARLIC]

Rasamisacloserelativeofsambharbutitisthinnerandisthereforeoftenservedasaspicysoup.Itisalsoeatenwithboiledrice,asasecondcourseafterriceandsambhar.Itisoftenmadebyaddingextrawatertothelentilswhenmakingsambhar,strainingthis,thenfryingspicesinoilandpouringthisintothelentils.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,plus15minutessoakingtimeCOOKING50minutes

4tablespoonstoordal,soakedinwateratroomtemperaturefor15minutesthenwashedanddrained3teaspoonstamarindpulporshop-boughttamarindpaste2tablespoonsvegetableoil

½teaspoonblackmustardseeds½teaspooncuminseedslargepinchofasafoetida10freshor15driedcurryleaves3garliccloves,peeledandbruised1teaspoonsambhar

powder½teaspooncrushedblackpeppercorns1teaspoongroundturmeric2tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshcorianderleaves,togarnishsaltboiledrice,toserve

1Placethelentilsinaheavy-basedsaucepanwith750mlwater,bringtotheboil,thenreducetheheatandsimmerfor45minutesuntilmushy,skimmingthescumoffthesurfacefromtimetotime.Seasonwithsaltandstirtodissolve.Whenthelentilsarecooked,passthemthroughasieveintoacleanpan,reservingtheliquidanddiscardingthecontentsofthesieve.Stirinthetamarind.2Heattheoilinasmallpanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseeds.Whentheybegintocrackle,addthecumin,asafoetida,curryleavesandgarliccloves.Fryfor1minute,thenstirinthesambharpowder,pepperandturmeric.3Pourthelentilliquidintothepan,bringtotheboilthenremovefromtheheat,sprinklewiththefreshcorianderandservehotwithrice.

PoosanikaiSambhar

[SOUTHINDIANLENTILSWITHPUMPKIN]

ThisisservedwiththefirsthelpingofriceinasouthIndianmeal.Threeservingsaretraditionalineverymeal:thefirstwithathicksambhar,thesecondwithathin‘rasam’andthethirdwithyogurt.Youcanaddanyfirmvegetable–aubergine,gourds,carrots,beansandbeetrootaretypical.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,plus30minutessoakingtimeCOOKING1hour15minutes

200gtoordal,soakedinwateratroomtemperaturefor30minutesthenwashedanddrained

100gpumpkin,deseededandcutinto2.5cmcubes(skinlefton)2tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspoonblackmustardseeds1teaspooncuminseeds12freshor15driedcurryleaveslargepinchofasafoetida3tablespoonstamarindpulporshop-boughttamarindpaste1teaspoonsambharpowder½teaspoongroundturmeric2tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshcorianderleaves,togarnishsaltboiledrice,toserve

1Putthelentilsanddoublethevolumeofwaterinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheatandbringtotheboil,thenreducetheheatandsimmerfor50minutes,skimmingoffthescumthatrisestothetopandaddingmorewaterasnecessary,topreventthelentilsfromdryingout.Whenalmostcompletelysoft,addthepumpkinandsimmerfor15minutesuntilcooked.Thelentilscancontinuecookingwiththepumpkin–theyaremeanttobemushy.2Seasonwithsalt,mix,removefromtheheatandsetaside.

3Warmtheoilinalargesaucepanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseeds.Whentheystarttocrackle,addthecuminseeds,curryleavesandasafoetida.Addthetamarindpulp.Cookoveralowheatfor4–5minutesuntilthickandbubbly,addingasplashofwatersothatthemixturedoesnotdryout.4Addthesambharpowderandturmericandcookfor1minute,thenpourthelentilsintothespicemixtureandstir.Addabitofwaterifnecessarytogetapouringconsistency.Sprinklewiththecorianderandservehotwithrice.

BengaliCholarDal

[CHANADALWITHRAISINS]

ThisisafestivedalmadeatfeastsoronspecialoccasionssuchastheHinduPujofestivalinBengalwhentheGoddessDurgaishonouredfor9daysandnights.Theconsistencyshouldbefairlythickanditiseatenwithfriedpooris.

Serves4PREPARATION→20minutes,plus1hoursoakingtimeCOOKING1hour

200gsplitgramlentils(chanadal),soakedinwateratroomtemperaturefor1hourthendrained

1teaspoongroundturmeric3tablespoonsvegetableoil2tablespoonspanchphoron4driedredchillies,deseededandcrumbled2bayleavesfewslicesofdriedorfreshcoconut2teaspoonsraisinssaltPooris,toserve

1Placethelentilsinaheavy-basedsaucepanwithabout450mlboilinghotwaterandsimmerfor1houruntilsoftandmushy,skimmingthescumoffthesurfacefromtimetotime.Addmorewaterasnecessary,togetathickconsistency.2Addtheturmeric,seasonwithsaltandmixwell.Removefromtheheat.3Heattheoilinasmallfryingpanoverahighheatthenaddthepanchphoron.Whenitcrackles,addtheredchillies,bayleaves,coconutandraisins.Reducetheheatandcookforafewseconds,thenseasontotaste.4Pourtheoilandthespicesoverthelentils,stir,bringtotheboilonceandservehotwithpooris.

GujaratiDal

[SWEETANDSOURLENTILS]

Ilovethedepthofflavourinthistangy,sweetdal,whichiseatenwithplainrice.Sometimesvegetablessuchasyamareaddedbutevenonitsown,itisatreat.Traditionally,toordalwillbeusedbutyoucanuseredormungdalforaspeedierversion.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,plus30minutessoakingtimeCOOKING1hour

150gtoordal,soakedinhotwaterfor30minutes,thenwashedanddrained½teaspoongroundturmeric

4kokumpetalsor3tablespoonstamarindpulp2freshgreenchillies,slitlengthways2tablespoonsgratedjaggeryorsoftbrownsugar2

tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspoonblackmustardseeds1teaspooncuminseedslargepinchofasafoetida½teaspoonfenugreekseedspinchoffreshordriedcurryleavesasmallsprigoffreshcorianderleaves,finelychopped,to

garnishsaltboiledrice,toserve

1Placethelentilsinaheavy-basedsaucepanwithdoublethevolumeofwaterandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmerforatleast40minutesuntilsoftandmushy,skimmingthescumoffthesurfacefromtimetotime.2Addtheturmeric,kokumortamarindpulp,greenchillies,jaggeryandsalttoseason.Simmerforafurther10minutesoruntilthelentilsarecompletelycooked.Removefromtheheat.3Heattheoilinasmallpanoverahighheat,thentipinthemustardseeds.Whentheybegintocrackle,addthecuminseeds,asafoetida,fenugreekseedsandcurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter).Cookfor1minute,thenremovefromtheheatandpourtheoilandspicesintothelentilmixture.

4Stirwell,seasontotaste,sprinklewiththefreshcorianderandservehotwithrice.

MatkichiUsal

[STIR-FRIEDMOTHSPROUTS]

SproutedbeansareacommonadditiontoaMaharashtrianorGujaratimealandareamustinathalifeast,wheremanysmalldishesfromthisregionareservedtogether.Duringtheprocessofsprouting,proteinsbreakdownintoseparateaminoacidsandcomplexcarbohydratesbreakdownintosimplercarbohydratesthatareeasiertodigest(seeUsingLentils).ThebeanstartstoproducenutrientssuchasB-groupvitamins,vitaminCandironinpreparationforbecomingafullplant,thusmakingsproutsahealthyadditiontoamainmealoradeliciousbreakfastwithasliceoftoast.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,plus5hourssoakingtimeandovernightsproutingtimeCOOKING35minutes

150gdriedmothbeans,sprouted(seeUsingLentils)1tablespoonvegetableoil½teaspoonblackmustardseeds½teaspooncuminseeds8freshor10driedcurryleaves1smallfreshgreenchilli,slitlengthways,seedsleftin1

mediumonion,finelychopped¼teaspoongroundturmeric2tablespoonsfreshlygratedcoconutordesiccatedcoconut,togarnish1tablespoon

choppedfreshcorianderleaves,togarnish1tablespoonlemonjuicesalt

1Refreshthesproutedbeansincoldwaterandsetaside.2Heattheoilinafryingpanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseeds.Whentheystarttopop,addthecuminseeds,curryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter)andthegreenchilli.Whentheseedssizzle,addtheonionandfryfor7–8minutesuntilsoft.3Tipinthesproutedbeans,turmericandsalttoseason.Addabout3tablespoonsofwaterandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheat,coverandcookforabout25minutesuntilthebeansaresoftbutfirm,addingmorewaterifthepan

driesout.Thefinaldishshouldbedry.Seasontotasteandfinishoffbysprinklingcoconut,corianderandlemonjuiceontop.Servewarm.

BhunaLobia

[STIR-FRIEDBLACK-EYEDBEANS]

Black-eyedbeansworkverywellwithtomatoesandonions,whichseemtobringouttheirnuttysweetnessasinthisnorthIndianrecipe.Theyarerichinsolublefibre,whichhelpseliminatecholesterolfromthebody.Black-eyedbeansareeatenalloverIndia–myKonkanirelativesfromKarnatakacookthemwithcoconutintoacreamycurrywhereasinMaharashtra,theyarestir-friedtomakeasemi-drydishcalled‘usal’.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,plusovernightsoakingtime(optional)COOKING1hour15minutes,or25minutesifusingcannedbeans

2tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspooncuminseedslargepinchofasafoetida1mediumonion,thinlysliced1tablespoonginger-garlicpaste150gdriedblack-eyedbeans,soakedinwaterovernightanddrainedor1x400gcan,

drainedandrinsed½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder½teaspoongroundturmeric2largeripetomatoes,chopped1teaspoongarammasala

½teaspooncastersugarasmallsprigoffreshcorianderleaves,chopped,togarnishsalt

1Heattheoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheat,thenaddthecuminseedsandfryuntiltheydarken.Addtheasafoetida,fryforafewsecondsthenaddtheonionandstir-fryfor8–10minutesuntilgolden.2Addtheginger-garlicpasteandmixwell.Cookfor1–2minutes,thentipinthebeans(driedandsoaked,ortinned),sprinkleinthechillipowderandturmericandfryfor1minute,thenmixinthetomatoes,garammasala,sugarandsalttoseason.Addalittlewater,coverandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmerfor1houruntildone(orjust3–4minutesifusingtinnedbeans).Thebeansshouldretaintheirshape.Mashafewtoaddthicknesstothesauceandseasontotaste.

3Servehot,garnishedwiththecoriander.

ValacheBirde

[SWEETVALBEANS]

Theseslightlybitterbeansteamupwellwithjaggeryandmustardseeds.Theycanbeserveddryasasidedishorinathinsaucetobeeatenwithrotis.Thethickskinswillpeelawayeasilyoncethebeanshavebeensoaked.

Serves4PREPARATION→20minutes,plus8hourssoakingandovernightsproutingtimeCOOKING35minutes

1tablespoonvegetableoil1teaspoonblackmustardseeds1teaspooncuminseedslargepinchofasafoetida10freshor15driedcurryleaves200gvalbeans,soakedfor8hours,sproutedovernight(see

UsingLentils)andskinned1teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongroundcoriander2tablespoonsgratedjaggeryorsoftbrownsugar4kokumpetalsor2teaspoonslemonjuice2tablespoonschoppedfreshcorianderleavessalt

1Heattheoilinapanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseeds.Whentheybegintopopaddthecuminseeds,asafoetidaandcurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter).Tipintheskinnedbeansandthegroundspices,thenaddthejaggeryorsugar,salttoseasonandenoughwatertocoverthemixture.Stirinthekokumorlemonjuice.2Bringtotheboilthenreducetheheat,coverandsimmerfor30minutesuntilthebeansaretender,addingmorewaterasnecessarytokeepthebeanssubmerged.Ifyouwantadrydish,uncoverthepanandboilofftheliquidoverahighheat.Seasontotaste,stirinthecorianderleavesandservehot.

Cholay

[CURRIEDCHICKPEAS]

Punjabicookingisknowntobeheartyandboldflavoursabound.Thestatehashadalargelyagriculturalpopulationwhohaveneededbigbreakfastsandmealstogetthroughlongdaysworkingonfarms,especiallythroughthecoldwinters.ThisisoneofPunjab’sfavouriterecipes,ofteneatenwithfriedbreadcalled‘bhatura’atbreakfast,orasamainmeal,andeachfamilyhastheirownversion.Youcanusedriedchickpeasbutyou’llneedtosoakthemovernightandcookthemforacoupleofhoursuntiltheyaresoft.Therecipeusesdried,powderedpomegranateseeds(anardanapowder)asasouringagent–ifyoucan’tfindtheseuselemonjuiceinstead.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING25minutes

1tablespoonstrongtealeavesorateabagofeverydayorbreakfasttea2.5cmpieceofcinnamonstick4greencardamompods,bruised2blackcardamompods,bruised5cloves

2x400gcansofchickpeas,drainedandrinsedor150gdriedchickpeas,soakedinwaterovernight1teaspoongroundturmeric

½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongroundcoriander1teaspoonanardanapowderor2tablespoonslemonjuice1teaspoonamchoor(dried

mangopowder)or1tablespoonlemonjuice2tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspooncuminseeds2tablespoonsginger-garlicpaste2freshgreenchillies,slitlengthwaysasmallhandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,finely

chopped,togarnishsalt

1Tiethetealeaves,cinnamon,bothcardamomsandclovesinapieceofmuslintomakeabouquetgarni.Immerseitinapanwith250mlwaterandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmerfor7–8minutestoextractthecolourandflavourofthebouquetgarni’scontents.Ifusingdried,soakedchickpeas,puttheminenoughwatertocoverthem,alongwiththebouquetgarniandcookfora

coupleofhours,addingmorewaterasnecessarytokeepthechickpeassubmergeduntilsoft.Ifusingcannedchickpeas,placetheminapan,pourintheliquidfromStep1(discardingthebouquetgarni)andbringtotheboil.Seasonwithsaltandsprinklethegroundspicesontop.2Heattheoilinthepanoverahighheat,addthecuminseedsandfryfor10secondsuntiltheydarken,thenaddtheginger-garlicpasteandchilliesandfryfor30seconds.Pourthisspicedoiloverthechickpeas.Reducetheheatandcookfor4–5minutes,stirring,untilthesauceisthickanddark.3Seasontotasteandservehot,garnishedwiththecoriander.

RajmaTamater

[REDKIDNEYBEANSWITHTOMATOES]

RedkidneybeansarepopularinnorthIndia,especiallyinJammuwheresomeofthebestvarietiesgrow.Pairedwithplainrice,‘rajma’isacomfortmealandneedsonlyabowlofyogurtservedontheside.Ifusingdriedkidneybeans,soakandcookthem,followingthemethod.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING20minutes

3tablespoonsvegetableoil2mediumonions,sliced2tablespoonsginger-garlicpaste2tablespoonstomatopurée1teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongroundcoriander1x400gcanofredkidneybeans,drainedandrinsedor150gdriedkidneybeans,soaked,

drainedandcooked2tablespoonschoppedfreshcorianderleaves,togarnishsaltboiledrice,toserve

1Heathalftheoilinaheavy-basedpanoverahighheat,addtheonionsandfryfor7–8minutesuntilsoft.2Addtheginger-garlicpasteandthetomatopuréeandfryfor2minutesuntilmushy.3Removefromtheheatandleavetocoolslightly,thentransferthemixturetoablender,pourinenoughwatertojustcoverthemixtureandblitzuntilsmooth.Setaside.Thisisthecurrypaste.4Heattheremainingoilinthepanoveramediumheatandaddthegroundspices.Whentheysizzle,addasplashofwaterandcookfor1–2minutesuntil

thewaterevaporates,leavingspicedoilinthepan.Stirinthebeans.5Addthecurrypasteandsalttoseasonandmixwell.Pourabout150mlwaterintotheblender,rinseitandpourthisintothecurry.Bringtotheboil,reducetheheat,coverandcookforabout5minutesuntilwellblended.6Seasontotasteandservehot,garnishedwiththecorianderandricetoserve.

ChanyachiAmti

[COASTALBLACKCHICKPEACURRY]

ThisfragrantcurryismadeinMumbaieachyearfortheHinduGaneshfestivalaroundAugust/September.Itisaccompaniedbyfriedrice-flourbreadcalledvadebutgoesequallywellwithanybreadorrice.

Serves4PREPARATION→20minutes,plusovernightsoakingtime(ifusingdriedchickpeas)COOKING1hour30minutesor30minutesifusingcannedchickpeas

150gdriedblackchickpeas,soakedinwaterovernightor1x400gcanofblackorwhitechickpeas,drainedandrinsed1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongroundturmeric2tomatoes,chopped

4kokumpetalsor2teaspoonslemonjuice2tablespoonsvegetableoil4cloves10blackpeppercorns1teaspooncorianderseeds4tablespoonsfreshlygratedordesiccatedcoconut1teaspoon

blackmustardseeds1teaspooncuminseedssaltboiledrice,Poorisorpoppadums,toserve

1Drainthesoakedchickpeasandboilthemindoublethevolumeofwaterfor1hourorsountilsoftandyoucansquashonebetweenyourfingers.Thereshouldstillbeenoughwatertocoverthechickpeasinthepan.Stirinthegroundspices,salttoseason,tomatoesandkokumorlemonjuiceandcookforacoupleofminutes.Ifusingcannedchickpeas,bringthemtotheboilwithsomewaterandaddtheseflavourings.2Meanwhile,makethecurrypaste.Heathalftheoilinapanoverahighheatandaddthecloves,peppercornsandcorianderseeds.Whentheysizzle,addthecoconutandfryfor4–5minutesuntilbrown.Transferthismixturetoablenderwithenoughwatertojustcoverthemixtureandblitztoafinepaste.Addthepastetothechickpeas,bringtotheboil,thenremovefromtheheatandseasontotaste.3Heattheremainingoilinapanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseedsand

cuminseeds.Whentheybegintopop,pourtheoilandseedsoverthecurryandmixwell.Servehotwithrice,poorisorpoppadums.

VellarikkaKootu

[CUCUMBERANDLENTILSTEW]

A‘kootu’isasouthIndianvegetableandlentilcombinationdishwithaconsistencythatislikeathickporridge.Itiseatenwithrice,andsometimesgheeisaddedintothemixforextraflavour.Youcansubstitutethecucumberwithanyfirmvegetablesuchascarrot,courgetteorturnip.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING1hour

200gsplit,skinnedmungdal,washedanddrained1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoonsambharpowder½cucumber,peeledandcutintobite-sizedchunks1tablespoonvegetableoilorghee1teaspoonblackorbrownmustardseedspinchoffreshordriedcurryleaves1smallonion,

finelydicedsaltboiledrice,toserve

1Putthemungdalintoapanwithdoublethevolumeofwaterandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmerfor40minutes,skimmingthescumoffthesurfacefromtimetotime,untilverysoft.2Stirintheturmericandsambharpowderthenaddthecucumber.Seasonwithsalt,andcookforafurther7–8minutestosoftenthecucumber.3Heattheoilorgheeinasmallfryingpanoverahighheat,thenaddthemustardseeds.Assoonastheybegintopop,sprinkleinthecurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter)andaddtheonion.Fryfor5–6minutesuntilverysoft,thenstirthismixtureintothelentils.Servehotwithrice.

SabutMasoorKiDal

[SPICEDBROWNLENTILS]

Sproutedorunsproutedbrownlentilscanbeusedforthisdal.Redlentils,whichareactuallysplitbrownlentils,canalsobeused,butwholelentilsaddadeliciouschewinesstothedish.Makesureyoucookthelentilsuntiltheyareverysoftbutstillholdtheirshape.Theyshouldbreakdownenoughtomakeacreamyhomogeniseddishratherthanawaterysoupwithlentilssittingatthebottom!

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,plus2hourssoakingtimeCOOKING1hour15minutes

200gbrownlentils,soakedinwaterfor2hoursanddrained2tablespoonsvegetableoil1largeredonion,thinlysliced2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste1freshgreenchilli,finelydiced2freshtomatoes,finelychopped1teaspoonground

turmeric1teaspoongarammasala2tablespoonschoppedfreshcorianderleaves,togarnishsalt

1Placethelentilsinapanwithdoublethevolumeofwater,bringtotheboilandcookfor1houroruntiltheyaremushy,skimmingthescumoffthesurfacefromtimetotime.Keeptoppingupthewaterifthelentilsbecometoodry.2Heattheoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheat,addtheonionandfryfor8–10minutesuntilgolden,thenaddtheginger-garlicpasteandchillitothepanandstirforafewseconds.Tipinthetomatoesandthegroundspicesandcookfor3–4minutesuntilsoft.3Seasonwithsaltandstirinthecookedlentils.Servehot,sprinkledwiththecoriander.

PalakDal

[LENTILSWITHSPINACH]

ThissimplefragrantdalismadealloverIndiawithafewvariations.InMaharashtraitmayhaveafewshavingsoflocallygrownfreshcoconutsprinkledontop,andinKarnatakaitwouldhaveafewcurryleavesaddedin.Itcanbeeatenwithrotisorriceasalightmeal.Youcoulduseavarietyofgreensinsteadofspinach–trykaleorchard.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING40minutes

200gsplitskinnedmungdal,washedanddrained3generoushandfulsoffreshspinach,washed,drainedandfinelychopped2tablespoonsvegetableoil

1teaspoonblackmustardseeds1teaspooncuminseeds1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste2freshgreenchillies,finelychopped1teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspoonfinelygroundblackpepperjuiceof½lemonsaltRotisorboiledrice,toserve

1Putthemungdalintoaheavy-basedsaucepanwithdoublethevolumeofwater.Bringtotheboil,reducetheheatandsimmerforabout30minutesuntilthelentilsaremushy,skimmingthescumoffthesurfacefromtimetotime.2Addthespinachtothelentilsandletitwilt.3Heattheoilinasmallsaucepanoverahighheat.Addthemustardseeds.Whentheystarttopop,addthecuminseeds,thenstirintheginger-garlicpasteandgreenchillies.Addtheturmericandpepper,stirthisintothecookedlentilsandsimmerforafurtherminute.Removefromheat.Squeezeinthelemonjuice,seasonwithsaltandservehotwithrotisorricealongside.

BootorDali

[CHANADALWITHONIONANDSPICES]

IhadthislovelydalatanAssamesefriend’shome.Shehadcombinedtwolentilstogettherightthickconsistencythatcouldbescoopedupinapooriorfriedbread.Thedalwillthickenasitcoolsaftercookingsofeelfreetoadjustthefinalconsistencybyaddingasmuch–orno–water,asyouprefer.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,plus1hoursoakingtimeCOOKING1hour

2tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspooncuminseeds2bayleaves1onion,finelydiced2freshgreenchillies,slitlengthways1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste150gsplitgramlentils(chanadal),soakedinhotwaterfor1hourthenwashedanddrained

100gredlentils,washedanddrained1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongarammasala

1tablespoongratedjaggeryorsoftbrownsugarsalt

1Heattheoilinasaucepanoverahighheatandaddthecuminseedsandbayleaves.Whentheysizzleandchangecolour,addtheonionandgreenchillies.Cookfor4–5minutesuntiltheonionsbegintosoftenandchangecolour.2Stirintheginger-garlicpastethenaddboththelentils.Fryforacoupleofminutes,thensprinkleintheturmeric.Pourinwateruptoacoupleofcentimetresabovethelentilsandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmerfor50minutesoruntilthelentilshavebecomesoftandmushy,skimmingthescumoffthesurfacefromtimetotime.3Mixinthegarammasalaandjaggeryorsugar,seasonwithsaltandbringtotheboiloncemore.Removefromtheheatandservehot.

Dalitoy

[LENTILSWITHASAFOETIDA]

GrowingupasachildinBombay,thiswasoneofthemostcomfortingmealsinmyaunt’shome.Servedwithplainriceandapapad(poppadum),itissomethingthatIstilllongforwhentiredorhungry.ThisdalfromtheKonkanicommunityhasapowerfulfragranceofasafoetidaandcurryleaves.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,plus30minutessoakingtimeCOOKING1hour

200gtoordal,soakedinwateratroomtemperaturefor30minutes,thenwashedanddrained

1freshgreenchilli,slitlengthways1tablespooncoconutoilorvegetableoil1teaspoonblackorbrownmustardseeds¼teaspoonasafoetida2driedwholeredchillieslargepinchoffreshordriedcurryleaves½teaspoongroundturmericsaltboiledriceandpapad,toserve

1Putthetoordalandgreenchilliinapanwithdoublethevolumeofwater.Bringtotheboilthenreducetheheatandsimmerfor50minutes,skimmingthescumoffthesurfacefromtimetotime,untilverysoft.Youcanreducethecookingtimebysoakingthelentilsforlonger,evenovernight.2Heattheoilinasmallfryingpanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseeds.Whentheybegintopop,addtheasafoetida,redchillies,curryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter)andturmeric.3Whenthismixturesizzles,stiritintothelentils.Seasonwithsaltandservehotwithriceandapapad.

BhajaMugerDal

[FRIEDMUNGLENTILS]

ABengalihouseholdisafish-andmeat-lovingonebutacoupleofdayseachweek,themenubecomesvegetarian,withnotevenonionorgarlicaddedtothefood,togivethedigestionarestfromheavyandstronglyflavouredfoods.Thisdalwithriceandafewvegetablefrittersbecomesasimplefeast.Thelentilsarefirstfried,togiveanuttytastetothedal.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING50minutes

200gsplitskinnedmungdal1tablespoonvegetableoil1smallcinnamonstick3greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded3cloves

2bayleaves2driedwholeredchillies1teaspooncuminseeds2.5cmpieceoffreshrootginger,scraped

andgrated½teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspooncastersugar1tablespoonghee,melted(optional)salt

1Heataheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheatanddry-toastthemungdalfor7–8minutesuntiltheyturngoldenbrown.2Pourinenoughwatertocoverthelentilsandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmerfor30minutesuntiltheyaresoft,addingmorewaterasnecessary,topreventthemfromdryingout.3Heattheoilinasmallfryingpanoverahighheatandaddthecinnamonstick,crushedcardamom,cloves,bayleavesandchillies.Fryuntilthespicessizzle,changecolourandbecomearomatic,thentipinthecuminseedsandafterafewseconds,addthegingerandturmeric.Cookforafewsecondsandstirthefriedspicesintothecookedlentils.4Seasonwithsalt,stirinthesugar,andpourthemeltedgheeoverthetop,ifusing.

SindhiDal

[TANGYLENTILS]

ThisisapopularSindhibreakfastservedwithcrispbreadcalledpakwan,althoughitisstillasdeliciouswithanybread.IfirstatethisasachildinBombay,atafriend’seighthbirthdayparty.Ittastedwonderfulandmadealovelychangefromtheusualsandwichesandcrisps!

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,plus2hourssoakingtimeCOOKING1hour

200gsplitgramlentils(chanadal),soakedinwaterfor2hours,thenwashedanddrained½teaspoongroundturmeric1tablespoontamarindpulporshop-boughttamarindpaste1tablespoongheeorvegetableoil1teaspoongarammasala

1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongroundcumin1teaspoonamchoor(driedmangopowder)saltbread,toserve

1Putthelentilsinaheavy-basedsaucepanwithdoublethevolumeofwaterandbringtotheboil.Stirintheturmeric,reducetheheat,partiallycoverthepanandsimmerfor45minutes,skimmingthescumoffthesurfacefromtimetotime,untilthelentilsareverysoft.Youwillneedtokeeptoppingupthewaterasthedalcooksandthickens.Stirinthetamarindpulpandseasonwithsalt.2Heatthegheeoroilinasmallpanoverahighheat.Addallthegroundspices.Whentheybegintosizzle,addasplashofwatertocookthemwithoutburning.Whenthewaterevaporates,pourthespicesandoiloverthecookedlentils,stirandservehotwithbread.

PanchmelDal

[FIVE-LENTILDAL]

‘Panch’is‘five’inseveralIndianlanguages,‘mel’isa‘mix’andthedalisalsocalled‘panchratna’orfive-jewelled.Itissometimeseatenwitharichfriedbreadcalled‘bati’butgoeswellwithriceorrotiforalightermeal.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,plusovernightsoakingtimeCOOKING1hour

200gmixedlentils,suchaschanadal,toordal,wholegreenmungbeans,skinlessuraddal,redlentils,soakedinwaterovernightatroomtemperature,thenwashedanddrained2tablespoonsvegetableoilorghee1teaspooncuminseeds

largepinchofasafoetida2driedwholeredchillies4greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded1smallcinnamonstick

3cloves1teaspoongratedfreshrootginger1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoonmedium-hot

redchillipowder2tomatoes,finelydicedasmallhandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,finelychopped,togarnishsaltRotisorboiledrice,toserve

1Putthelentilsinasaucepanalongwithdoublethevolumeofwater.Bringtotheboil,reducetheheatandsimmer,partiallycovered,forabout50minutesuntilsoftandmushy,skimmingthescumoffthesurfacefromtimetotime.Addwaterasnecessarytokeepthelentilssubmerged.2Heattheoilorgheeinafryingpanoverahighheatandaddthecuminseeds,asafoetida,driedchillies,cardamomseeds,cinnamonandcloves.3Whenthespicesstarttosizzleandchangecolour,stirintheginger,turmericandchillipowder.Cookforafewseconds,thenmixinthetomatoesandseasonwithsalt.Addasplashofwaterandcookfor3–4minutesuntiltheoilbeginstoseparatearoundtheedges.4Pourthespicemixintothecookedlentilsandheatthrough.Adjusttheseasoningandconsistencytotaste.Youshouldbeabletopourthedal.Sprinklewiththefreshcorianderandservehotwithriceorrotis.

AlooGobiPalakKiSubziBhindiKiSubziBhindiKurkureGucchiKormaBanarasiAlooDoodhiChanaKarelaMasalaBagareBainganBharelaRinganNuShakAlooMethiMuttakosThoranVangeFryNavratanKormaKumraCharchariKandaMirchiChaZunkaGodeBatateBatatyaTalasaniSindhiKadhiBeansPoriyalVegetableSaaguMakkaiSimlaMirchKiSubjiFlowerchaRassaKobiVatanaNuShakAlooPostoSaagAlooOondhiyoon

AVEGETABLEMARKETININDIAISACOLOURFUL,BUSTLING,BUSYPLACE.THEREAREFARMERS’MARKETSINEVERYLOCALITYOFBIGCITIESANDINTOWNORVILLAGE

SQUARES.INDIANSEATALOTOFVEGETABLESONADAILYBASISANDHAVEAHUGEVARIETYTOCHOOSEFROM.

AncientIndianvegetablesincludelotusrootandcucumber,bothmentionedintheRigveda,areligioustextdatingbacktoc.1500–1200BC.ItisoftenseeninHindutextsthatveryesotericconceptsareexplainedthrougheverydayobjectsoroccurrencestomakethemeasiertounderstand.AhymntothegodShivafromthistextisinuseeventoday–itlikenstheliberationfromdeathtotheseparationofthecucumberfromthecreeper.

After1500ADnewvegetablescametoIndiathroughforeigntradeandconquest.ThePortuguesebroughtpotatoes,tomatoes,chillies,cashews,pumpkinsandlycheeswhereastheBritisharecreditedwithintroducingIndiatocauliflowersandcabbages.

NativeauberginescalledbrinjalsprobablyspreadtotheMediterraneanthroughArabtraders.Althoughearlyaubergineswerequitebitter,today’sharvestsarenot,asthebitternesshasbeenbredout.

AvegetablemarketinIndiaisacolourful,bustling,busyplace.Therearefarmers’marketsineverylocalityofbigcitiesandintownorvillagesquares.Indianseatalotofvegetablesonadailybasisandhaveahugevarietytochoosefrom,suchassnakegourdandclusterbeans.TherepertoireofIndianvegetariancookingisendless!

WheneverIaminMumbai,Ialwaysmakeapointofwanderingthroughmylocalfarmers’markets–myfavouriteistheoneatGrantRoadwhereIhavebeenshoppingforsomanyyearsthatIknowseveralofthefarmerspersonally.Somestallsareownedbypeoplewhobuyvegetablessuchaspotatoes,beans,carrots,gourdsorcabbagesfromthefarmersorfromwholesalemarkets.OftenthefarmersthemselvestravelinfromplacessuchasVasai,justoutsideMumbai,withsmallstocksofunusualfarmvegetablesandonehastogotothemarketearlytobeabletofindtreasuressuchasbreadfruit,jackfruitseeds,bananaflower,wildfenugreekandcolocasialeaves.

Breadfruitisagrapefruit-sizedgreenvegetablewithdensecream-colouredfleshthatgrowsonlargetrees.ItispeeledanddicedtomakecurriesandfrittersinsouthernandcoastalIndiawhereitgrows.Similarinappearancebutthree

insouthernandcoastalIndiawhereitgrows.Similarinappearancebutthreetimesthesizeofabreadfruitisthestronglyaromaticjackfruit,whichwhenripeiseatenasafruitbutwhentenderisusedavegetable.Thelargeseedsareprizedfortheirflourytexturebutalsobecausetheyareasourceofprotein,fibreandvitaminB.Bananaflowersaretheedibleblossomsofthebananatree.Thedarkpurpleouterhusksarestrippedawaytorevealtender,yellowbudsthatareusedforcooking.WildfenugreekleavesaresmallerthanthebunchesoffenugreekweseeinWesternshops.Theyaremorepowerfulinaromaandslightlymorebitterintaste,aqualityforwhichtheyareprized.Thecolocasiaplantiseatenfromroottoleaf.Thetubersarestarchy,likepotatoes,andthelargeleavesarearomaticandstuffedwithspicedgramflourtomakeasteamedsnackcalled‘patrel’.

Indiastilllargelyeatsseasonally.Peoplelookforwardtowintercarrotsandsummermangoes.ItisatreattoeataperfectlyripeAlphonsomangoinMayandenjoyafeastofGujarati‘oondhiyoon’burstingwithwintervegetablessuchaspurpleyamandcarrots.

Chillies

Giventhattheyareusedinalmosteverysavouryrecipefromanypartofthecountry,itissurprisingthatuntilafewhundredyearsago,chillieswereunknowninIndia.TheywerefirstintroducedbythePortugueseattheendofthefifteenthcentury.Commercially,chillies,whicharefruitsofthecapsicumspecies,areclassifiedontheircolour,shapeandpungency,andoverahundredvarietiesaregrownandeaten.Chillieshaveastrong,smartingaromaandtheirtasterangesfrommildtodynamite.Thelevelofheatisdependentontheamountofcapsaicinpresentintheseeds,veinsandskinofthechilliesandisnotdiminishedbycooking,storingorfreezing.Thisiswhy,generally,thesmallerthechilli,andthemoreconcentratedtheseedsandveins,thehotteritis.

Chilliesbringheataswellasfragrancetoadish.ManyofIndia’shottestplaces,suchasRajasthanandAndhraPradesh,haveafierycuisinebecausechilliesactuallycooldownthebodyinhotweather.Thecapsaicindilatesbloodvesselstoincreasecirculationandencourageperspiration.However,ifyoueverbiteintoachilliunexpectedly,don’treachforajugofwater–capsaicinisinsolubleinwater.Dairyproductshavethepowertoneutralisecapsaicinsotryyogurtormilktocalmthefire.

Chilliesareavailablefresh,dried,powdered,flaked,inoil,insauce,bottledandpickled.

Howtobuychillies→Whenbuyingfreshchillies,lookforcrisp,unwrinkledonesthatareglossyandgreen.Freshredchillies(whichareripegreenones)areusuallydriedforbetterstorageandtointensifytheircolour.Freshgreenchilliesareusedwhenonewantsafresher‘green’chilliflavourandtosupplementthegreencolourofacurry.Redchillies,driedaswellaspowdered,areusedwhenonewantsaredorbrowncolourinthesauceaswellasadeeper,slightlysmokyflavour.

ThepungencycanvaryfromthemoderateKashmirchilliandsomedriedsouthIndianvarietiessuchasTomatochilliesandByadagichilliesthatgivemorecolourthanheat,tothefierybird’s-eyechilliesfromthenorth-eastandthedriedGunturchillieswhichhaveadarkred,thickskinandincrediblefirepower.

Aswithallgroundspices,chillipowderlosesitsstrengthandsparkleafterafewmonths.Wholedriedchillieswillkeepforuptoayearifstoredinadry,darkplace.

Howtopreparechillies→Allchilliesneedtobetreatedwithrespect.Thecapsaicininchilliesishighlyirritatingtoskin,sobecarefulwhenpreparingthem.Trytoavoidcontactwiththeinsideofthefruitandwashhandswithsoapandwaterimmediatelyafteruse.

1Togetmoreflavourthanheat,holdachilliatthestalkandrunyourknifedownitslength.Addthewholechillitothepan.Youcanseethechilliandpullitoutatanypointduringcooking.2Forahottercurry,finelychopthechilliandaddthewholelotin,seedsandall.Ifyoudon’twanttoomuchheatbuttherecipeasksfordicedchillies,forexampleinmeatballs,reducethenumberofchilliesused–oneinplaceoftwoorhalfinplaceofone.Idon’tbotherscrapingtheseedsoutofchillies!3Tomakeaquickchillipaste,roughlychopachilliandcrushitinapestleandmortarwithatinyamountofsalt.4Topreparedriedchillies,removethestemsandshakeouttheseeds.Theycanbetornintobits,soakedinwarmwaterorboiledinwaterfor5–6minutesandgroundtoapasteforcurriesandsauces.Theseedsareharderthaninfreshchilliesandcansometimesrefusetosoftenevenoncooking.Iliketoshakeouttheseedsbeforepuréeingthem,butiftheyaregoingintothedishwhole,moreforflavourthanforheat,leavetheseedsin.

IndianGourds

Gourdsarefleshyfruitwithahardskin,althoughafew,suchasthetindoraorivygourd,haveathin,edibleskin.TheyaregrownalloverIndiaduetothewarm,humidclimate,whichisidealfortheseclimbingplants.Manyareneutralenoughintastetoabsorbtheflavoursofthespicestheyarecookedin.Theygroweasilyindomesticgardensandkeepwellforlongperiodsoftime.IhaveseenanincreasingnumberofgourdsavailableintheWestoverthelastfewyears,suchasdoodhiorbottlegourdandkarelaorbittergourd.Gourdsvaryinsize,shapeandcolour,butalmostallhaveadistinctiveskinandamultitudeofseedsembeddedintheinnerflesh.

SomeIndiangourdsare‘turai’orridgedgourds,whichhaveraisedridgesalongtheirlength.Theyoungfruitsarecookedinstir-friesmuchlikeacourgette.Thinlypeeltheridgesbeforecooking(theremainingskincanbeeaten).InsouthIndia,thediscardedridgesaresoakedinwaterandgroundupintoadeliciouschutneywithcoconutandspices.

Karelaorbittergourdsarepopularinspiteoftheirintensebitterflavourandare

oftencombinedwithonionsandtomatoes.Theirskinisbrightgreenandknobblywhenfresh,andastheymaturetheskinturnsyellowandtheseedsstarttoturnorange.KarelasareprizedinIndiaastheycontainactivesubstanceswithanti-diabeticpropertiesincludingcharantin,whichhasaglucose-loweringeffectandaninsulin-likecompoundcalledpolypeptide-p(seewww.diabetes.co.uk).Westernscientistsareworkingonstudiestoprovethis,butinIndia,peoplehaveeatenkarelaforalongtimetohelpregulatebloodsugar.

Topreparekarela,sliceitthinlyandsoaktheslicesinsaltedwaterfor15–20minutesbeforecooking.Thishelpstodrawoutthejuicesandreducethebitternessofthefinaldishslightly.Aftersoaking,drainitandsqueezeoutthejuices.ItcanbefriedlikechipsorcookedwithspicesasinKarelaMasala.

Lauki,dudhiordoodhiisalsocalledbottlegourd.Therearemanyvarietiesofshapesandsizes,suchasthelong,slimoneortheroundball-likeonecommonlyreferredtoas‘calabashgourd’,andthesegrowonclimbingframesindomesticgardens.Thefruitshaveasmoothpale-greenskinandtheinnerfleshiswhite,spongyandabitlikecucumberintaste.Itisquiteablandwateryvegetablebutveryversatileandcanbemadeintocurries,pancakesorsweetssuchashalwa.

Snakegourdsarelongandthinandcanmeasureover6feetinlength!Theyarepluckedwhenverytenderandflexible,andweightsareoftenplacedonthemwhilegrowingtokeepthemstraight.Iflefttogrownaturally,theyendupcurlingaroundthemselveslikehugegreensnakes.

Tindora,tendliorivygourdsareslenderovalfruitsmeasuringonlyabout5cminlength.Theytastecrunchyandcucumber-likeandarequitefreshandjuicy.Theyareslicedlengthwaysorinsmalldiscsandareusedinstir-friesorpickles.Overripetindoraareredontheinsideandcanbebitter,inwhichcasetheyneedtobediscarded.

Tindaaresmooth-skinned,lemon-sizedroundgourdsthatarecookedwithgarlicandtomatoesandarequitepopularinnorthIndiawheretheyaremostlygrown.

Parwalorpointedgourdshaveadarkgreenstripedskinandlargeseeds.Theskinis

quitecoarsebutedible.

LeafyVegetables

TheseareeatenalloverIndia,combinedwithlentils,meat,dairyorgrains.Spinach,called‘palankya’inSanskrit,ismentionedintheSushrutaSamhita,asixth-centuryBCtextaboutAyurveda.Spinachisconsideredcoolingandlighttodigest.ItwaswidelyusedinancientIndiaandwasknownforitsnutritionalpropertiessuchasitsironcontent,whichincreasedvitality.

Fenugreekor‘methi’iseatenfresh,combinedwithpotatoes.Theslightlybitter,fragrantflavourplaysanimportantroleinvegetariancookeryandAyurvedaconsiderstheseedshealingandanti-diabeticduetotheirabilitytoimproveglucosetolerance.Topreparefreshmethi,plucktheleavesoffthethickstalks.Thetenderstemsthatgrowtowardsthetopoftheplantcanbeeaten.IntheWest,bunchesoffenugreekleavesareavailableatIndiangrocersorinlargestoresinareaswithahighAsianpopulation.

Mustardgreensor‘sarson’areawintertreatinPunjab.Ayurvedaclassifiesthemaswarmingandtheyarecookedwithothervegetablesandflourtomakeagreenstewthatiseatenwithcornbreadandbutter.MustardgreensareavailableatIndiangrocersintheWestbutifyoucan’tfindthem,substitutethemwithkale.

Amaranthleavesarecalled‘maath’,‘thotakura’or‘saga’andareavailableingreenorredvarieties,typicallyduringthemonsoonmonthsfromJunetoOctober.Theleavescooktoasilkytextureandarecombinedwithonionsandchillies.Spinachisanacceptablealternative.

Sorrelleavescalled‘gongura’areafavouritevegetableinAndhraPradesh,wheretheyareevenmadeintoatangy,spicypickle.Again,availableasredorgreen,itisasummervegetable,whichbecomesmoresourdependingonhowhotthegrowingconditionsare.IntheWest,thesecanbesubstitutedwithspinachtowhichabitoflemonjuicehasbeenadded.

Colocasia,or‘arvi’,‘eddoe’or‘taro’,iseatenasleavesorrootsalloverthecountry.

Therearetwovarieties:onewithatendergreenstalkthatisusedforcurries,theotherwithapurplestalk,usedtomakeasidedishorsnackcalled‘patra’or‘patrode’.However,colocasialeavescontaincalciumoxalateintheformofmicroscopicneedlesthatcanirritatethethroatandmouth.Thereforeithastobecookedwithanacidsuchastamarind,kokumorlemonbeforeeatingit.Therootsdonothavetheseneedlesandcooktoatextureresemblingastickypotato.AsuitablealternativeintheWestisspinach.

RootVegetables‘Aloo’,‘batata’or‘bangaladumpa’,aspotatoesarevariouslyknown,playakeyroleinIndiancooking.Indiaisoneoftheworld’slargestproducers,withromantic-soundingvarietiessuchasKufriSindhuri,awaxyredpotatoandKufriHimalini,afloury,mildvarietysuitableforgrowingonhillsides.

IntheWest,Itendtousewhicheverpotatoisinseason,soattimesIwillhaveaflouryoneandatothers,awaxyone.IquiteenjoythedifferenceintexturesandwillhappilyswapanewpotatoforaKingEdward.

CarrotsaremostlyawintervegetableinIndia.TheEasternorAsiaticvarietyisdarkerorangeincolourandslimmerthanitsWesterncounterpart.ItissoughtafterforitscolourandflavourinrecipessuchasGajarkaHalwa,ajammy,fragrantmixofshreddedcarrots,sugar,nutsandcardamom.

Yamsofdifferentkindsareeateninvariouspartsofthecountry.‘Suran’or‘oal’isstarchyelephantfootyamwhichiscookedwithspicesintoacurry,mashedforchutneysorpickledinwarmingoilandspices.Itisquitestickyoncepeeledsocooksoiltheirhandsbeforehandlingitanduseanacidicfoodinitscookingtomakeitmoremanageable.It’sallwellworththeeffortbecausesuranhasawonderfuldrytexturethatisquiteunlikeotherrootvegetables.Purpleyamscalled‘kand’arelarge,knarledtubersandagain,mostlyseeninmarketsinthewintermonthswhentheyaremadeintoafabulousGujaratimixedvegetabledishcalled‘oondhiyoon’orspicedandfriedaschips.ThiscanbesubstitutedwithsweetpotatoorpotatointheWest.

Sweetpotatoes,commonlyeateninIndia,arenotfromthepotatofamilyatall.Potatoesbelongtothenightshadefamilywhereassweetpotatoesbelongtothegenusthathasflowers,suchasmorningglory.Theyareslicedandfriedlikechips,cookedincurrieswithlentilsoronionsandtomatoes,orcombinedwithspicestomakestir-friedsidedishes.

AuberginesIndianvegetariancookingwouldbesadlydiminishedwithoutthispopularvegetableknownasbrinjalor‘baingan’.BrinjalshavebeencultivatedinIndiasinceprehistorictimes.Largeauberginesarefire-roastedandmashedintoadishcalled‘bharta’or‘bhareet’.Medium-sized,green,whiteorpurpleonesarecutopenandstuffedwithonions,coconut,tomatoes,flourandspices,and

openandstuffedwithonions,coconut,tomatoes,flourandspices,andsometimesauberginesaredicedandsimplycookedwithpotatoestomakeastir-friedsidedishcalled‘bhaji’.

Someaubergineshavemoreseedsthanothers,butthesearesoftandedible.Thereisnoneedtosaltanddrainaubergines–modernvarietiesarenotbitter.TherearemanyvarietiesofIndianbrinjals,suchasthenorthIndianPusaKranti,withsmalloblongfruitthatarestuffedwithspices,ortheVaishali,amedium-sized,purplebrinjalwithwhitestripes,growninMaharashtra,thatiscookedwithcoconuttomakecurries.

RegionalVegetablesHomekitchenspridethemselvesonusinglocalandseasonalproducefoundinfarmers’markets.Thesouthernstates,suchasTamilNadu,India’slargestbananagrowingstate,willhavebananaflowers,plantainandrawandripejackfruit,whichneedsahot,humidclimatetogrowin.Inthesouthernsummer,jackfruitischoppedupintococonutcurriesorcoolingsalads.

InMaharashtra,smallspinygourdscalled‘kantola’andredsorrelleavesarefoundinmonsoonmarketsaroundAugust.Inthewinter,vegetablemarketsinDelhiarefullofmustardgreensandbathuaorpigweed,aleafyvegetablethatisboiledtoremoveitsbitternessandthenaddedtocurries,ortoyogurttomakearaita.TurnipscanbeseeninPunjabiwintermarketsandthesearemadeintoaseasonalpickletobeeatenthroughthecoldmonths.Marketsaroundthecountrysellbambooshoots,chillies,ginger,tomatoes,pumpkins,okra(ladies’fingers),rawmangoesandallkindsofstems,stalks,leaves,rootsandfruit.Thesearerarelyseenonrestaurantmenusbutcomeintotheirfullgloryinfestiveseasonalmenus.

MASTERCLASS

HOWTOBREAKANDGRATEACOCONUT

CoconutsareimportantnotjustinIndiancookingbutalsoinHinduritualsandcelebrations.InSanskrit,thecoconutiscalled‘shrifal’orfruitofauspiciousness.Itgrowsoncoastalshores,takinginsaltywater,andyetcreatessweetwaterandflesh,aqualitythat,accordingtoHinduphilosophy,shouldbeemulated.CoconutsareplacedonabrasspotdecoratedwithmangoleavesduringtheHindumarriageceremonytosignifyafuturelifeofplenty.Kerala,whichmeans‘LandofCoconuts’,isthestatewiththeidealclimate,thatgrowsthehighestnumberofcoconutsinIndia.Theoriginofthecoconuttreeisvaguebutthefruit,beingwaterresistantandabletofloat,certainlyspreadtovariouslandsviatheoceansandsproutedoncoastsfarandwide.InIndia,coconutsgrowalloverthesouthernpeninsulaandinBengalandAssam.Thesecuisinesusecoconutintheformofmilk,waterorthefleshitself.

HOWTOBUYACOCONUTCoconutsaresoldinmanyforms–asjellynuts,tendergreencoconutsorthehardbrownones.Greencoconutsareprizedforthenourishing,sweetwatertheycontain–oneofnature’sfinestdrinks.Thebrowncoconut,ontheotherhand,isacookingfruitandformsthebaseofalotofsouthIndianandBengalicooking.Whenbuyingabrowncoconut,lookforahard,unbrokenshell.Ifthereisacracktheinnerfleshwillbedryormouldy.Thenliftthecoconutandshakeitclosetoyourear.Youshouldhearthewaterinsidewhichmeansthatitisfresh.

HOWTOBREAKANDGRATEACOCONUTAbrowncoconutisnaturallyfibrous.Pulloffthefibresanddiscard.Youwillfindthree‘eyes’ononeofthetaperedendsofthecoconut.Theylooklikethreelarge,blackdots.Holdthecoconutoverabowl.Usingascrewdriverorcorkscrew,piercetheseeyesanddrainthewaterintothebowl.Thisshouldbeclearandsweetsmelling.Ifitiscloudy,slimyorfoulsmelling,thecoconutiseithernotfreshorhasgoneoff.Clearcoconutwaterissweet

coconutiseithernotfreshorhasgoneoff.Clearcoconutwaterissweetandcanbedrunkstrainedintoacup.

Next,useahammerorbluntendofalargeknifeandsmackthecoconutsharplybutgentlyalongthe‘equator’.Dothisuntilyouseeacrackforming,thenhitalittlehardertobreakitintotwopieces.

Usingasharpknife,priseawaythefleshfromtheshellinlargechunks.Thebrownskincanbeeasilypeeledawayusingavegetablepeeler,leavingyouwithpiecesofbrightwhitecoconutflesh.Itcanthenbegratedinafoodprocessororonagraterorthinlysliced.

InIndia,acoconutistypicallycrackedopenbybangingitonthegroundifonehasanoutdoorspaceorasabove,usingacurvedkitcheninstrumentcalleda‘koyta’.Thetwohalvesarethengratedonacoconutscraper.Thisisaflat,woodenbasetowhichasickle-shapedbladeisattached.Ithasaserratedfanattheend,whichisusedtoscrapeoutthewhitefleshfromthecoconutshell.Thebladeisalsousedtochopmeatandvegetables.Thiswholedeviceisplacedonthefloorandonehastositontheplinthtouseit.

Frozen,gratedcoconutisavailableinthefreezersectionofIndianshopsaswellassomesupermarkets.

DESICCATEDCOCONUTSomeIndianrecipes,suchasdrychutneys,specificallyrequiredesiccatedcoconut,whichiscalled‘kopra’inIndia.Unsweeteneddesiccatedcoconutcanbeusedinsteadoffreshcoconutbutthetastewilldifferabit.Ifsubstitutingfreshwithdesiccated,soakthedriedcoconutinsomewarmwaterfor30minutes.Drainthecoconutbeforeuse.

MASTERCLASS

COCONUTMILK

Makingcoconutmilkisnotdifficultbutitisslightlytimeconsuming.

Makes400mlthickmilkand10mmlthinmilkPREPARATION→5minutes

YOUWILLNEED:freshcoconut,shredded–warmwater–jugblender–sieve–bowl

1Oncethecoconuthasbeencrackedopen,peeledandshredded(seehere),soakthefleshinwarmwater(enoughtocoverthecoconut)forafewminutes.

2Putthecoconutandwaterinablenderandblitzuntilcoarse.Pourintoasieveplacedoverabowlandpressandsqueezethecoconuttoextractthethickwhitemilk.InIndiankitchens,thisprocessisrepeatedtoextract‘thin’coconutmilkafterthefirst‘thick’pressing.Recipeswilloftenaskyoutocookthecurryinthe‘thin’milkandfinishitwiththe‘thick’milkattheend.Thisisbecauserichcoconutmilkmaysplitonprolongedcooking.

STORECUPBOARDVARIATIONS

CannedcoconutmilkYoucanalsobuycansofcoconutmilk,butmakesuretochecktheingredientsonthelabelforunwantedthickenerssuchasguarorxanthangums.Partlyusedcansofmilkcanbedecantedintotubsand

frozenforlateruse.Tomake‘thin’milkfromacan,dilutehalfthecanwithanequalamountofwater.Theremaindercanbeusedas‘thick’milk.

CoconutpowderorcreamedcoconutIfyourequireasmallamountofcoconutmilk,makethiswithcoconutpowderorcreamedcoconut.

2tablespoonscoconutpowderorcreamedcoconut(ormore,dependingonhowthickyouwantthemilktobe)

200mlwarmwatersievebowl

1Combinethepowderorcreamedcoconutwiththewarmwaterandwhiskuntilsmooth.Strainthroughasieveintoabowl.

AlooGobi

[NORTHINDIANSPICEDPOTATOWITHCAULIFLOWER]

Thismuch-loveddishhasbeenmadeevenmorepopularbynorthIndianrestaurantsintheWest.CauliflowersgrowinabundanceinthenorthIndianwinterandareapopularvegetabledishthere.They,alongwithpotatoes,areavailableallyearroundinWesterncountriesandarethereforearestaurantstaple.Thistastesdivinewhenthevegetablesarealmostfriedratherthanstewed,somyrecipehasabitmoreoilthanI’dnormallyuse.Typicallyadrysidedish,itgoeswellwithrotis,pooris,parathasorricedishes.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING40minutes

3tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspooncuminseeds1mediumonion,finelydiced½teaspoonginger-garlicpaste2freshgreenchillies,finelychopped2potatoes,peeledandcutinto2cmdice2fresh

tomatoes,finelydiced½headofcauliflower,cutintoflorets1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoonamchoor(driedmangopowder)orlemonjuice1teaspoongarammasalaasmallhandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped,togarnishsaltRotis,toserve

1Heattheoilinaheavy-basedpanoverahighheatandaddthecuminseeds.Assoonastheydarken,addtheonionandfryforabout6minutesuntilsoft.Addtheginger-garlicpasteandchilliesandfryforafewseconds.2Tipinthepotatoes.Fryforacoupleofminutes,stirringfrequentlytopreventthemixturefromstickingtothebottomofthepan,thenaddthetomatoesandallowtosoften.Cookforacoupleofminutes,thentipinthecauliflowerflorets,turmericandamchoorpowder(ifusing)andseasonwithsalt.Mixwell,reducetheheatandcookfor30minutes,sprinklinginacoupleofhandfulsofwaterifitbeginstosticktothepan.

3Whenthevegetablesarecompletelydone,removefromtheheat,sprinklewiththegarammasala,addlemonjuice(ifusinginsteadofamchoor),seasontotasteandservehotsprinkledwiththecorianderandrotisalongside.

PalakKiSubzi

[SPINACHANDDILLMEDLEY]

Ifindthecombinationofspinachwithothergreenssuchkale,chardorcollardgreensirresistibleforitstasteandtexture.GreensareoftencombinedinIndiancookingforthisreason.Thedillbringsafreshnesstothisrecipe,whichisapowerhouseofnutrientssuchasvitaminsAandC.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING30minutes

2tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspooncuminseeds1largeonion,finelychopped1teaspoondriedfenugreekleaves(kasoorimethi)oragoodhandfuloffreshfenugreek

leaves,washed,drainedandfinelychopped1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste1freshgreenchilli,finelychopped300gfreshspinach,washed,drainedandchopped150gfreshdill,washed,drainedandchoppedsaltRotis,toserve(optional)

1Heattheoilinaheavy-basedpanoverahighheatandaddthecuminseeds.Fryforabout1minuteuntiltheydarken,thenaddtheonionandfryforabout5minutesuntilsoft.Addthekasoorimethi,ifusing.Stirintheginger-garlicpasteandthechilli.2Tipinthechoppedspinachanddillalongwiththefenugreekleaves,ifusing,seasonwithsaltandstirwell.Keepstirringfor8–10minutesuntiltheleavesarewellblendedandcookedthrough.Servehotwithrotisortoaccompanyachickencurryandrice.

MASTERCLASS

BAINGANBHARTA–Fire-roastedAuberginewithSpices

ThisverypopularnorthIndiandishissimpletopreparebutmightseemabitscaryatfirst!Theauberginecanbecookedinseveralways:directlyonagashobwithoutoil,onabarbecue,orgrilledorbakedinanovenafterbrushingwithoil.Iprefertocookitonthehob–ittakesonly7–8minutesandachievesthesmokiestflavour.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING40minutes

YOUWILLNEED:1largeaubergine2tablespoonsvegetableoil½teaspooncuminseeds1mediumonion,finelychopped1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste1freshgreenchilli,chopped2tablespoonstomatopuréeor2freshtomatoes,finely

chopped,seedsandall1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongroundcoriander3tablespoonsgreengardenpeas(freshorfrozen)asmallsprigoffreshcoriander

leaves,chopped,togarnishsaltRotisorNaans,toserve

1Placetheauberginedirectlyonalitgashobwithoutbrushingwithoil.Cookfor7–8minutes,turningitfromtimetotimewithapairoftongs,untilyoucanpiercethethickestparteasilywithaknife.Bythistimetheskinwilllookcrinklyandcrisp.Leavetocool,thenpeelofftheskinwithasmallknifeorwithyourfingers.

2Discardthestalkandmashthefleshoftheaubergineinabowlwitha

fork.Setaside.

3Heattheoilinasaucepanoverahighheat,addthecuminseedsandfryfor30secondsuntiltheydarken.Addtheonionandfryfor7–8minutesuntilsoft,thenaddtheginger-garlicpasteandthegreenchilliandfryfor1minute.Addthetomatopuréeandthespicesandcookfor4–5minutesuntilwellblended,addingatablespoonofwatertostopthepuréefromstickingtothebottomofthepan.Ifusingfreshtomatoes,youwillnotneedtoaddwater.

4Tipinthepeas,seasonwithsaltandcookfor7–8minutesoveramediumheatuntiltheyaretender.

5Stirintheaubergine.Seasontotasteandservehot,sprinkledwiththecoriander.Enjoywitharotisornaan.

BhindiKiSubzi

[SPICEDSTIR-FRIEDOKRA]

Thisstraightforwardstir-fryhasmanyregionalvariations.Thesearebasedonlocally-growningredientssuchascoconut,whichissprinkledontopinthesouth,oroncookingstylessuchasthenorthIndian‘tadka’,whereonions,ginger,garlicandtomatoesarestir-friedatthebeginningtocreateabaseforthedish.You’llfindthatattheendofcooking,thebottomofthepanappearsblack–thisisthesliminessthathascookedoffanddoesnotmeanthattheokrahasburnt.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,plusovernightdryingtimeCOOKING25minutes

2tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspoonblackmustardseeds½teaspooncuminseeds1mediumonion,thinlysliced300gokra,washedanddriedovernight,topsandtailsremoved,cutinto2cmdice1teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1tablespoonlemonjuicesaltRotis,toserve

1Heattheoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseeds.Whentheybegintopop,addthecuminseeds.Astheydarken,addtheonionandfryfor4–5minutesuntilsoft.2Tipintheokraandstirwell.Seasonwithsalt.Cookoveramediumheatfor12–15minutes,stirringfromtimetotime,untiltheokrasoftens.Thevegetablewillchangefrombeingfirmtosoft–youcantestthisbycuttingthroughapiecewithyourladle.Thestickinessshoulddisappearbynow.Thecolourwillhave

alsochangedfromabrighttoadullgreen.3Stirinthegroundspicesandlemonjuice,cookforacoupleofminutesandservehotwithrotis.

BhindiKurkure

[CRISP,TANGY,SPICYOKRA]

Okraisawell-lovedvegetablethroughoutIndia,butonlywhenit’snotgloopy.Thestickysapiscookedoffbytheadditionofsomeacidsuchasamchoororkokumandnowaterisaddedwhilemakingadryokradish.Whenaddingittoacurry,therewillalwaysbeanacidicbasethatcutsthroughthesliminess.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,plusovernightdryingtimeCOOKING15minutes

1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoonamchoor(driedmangopowder)2tablespoonsgramflourvegetableoil,fordeep-frying300gokra,washedanddriedovernight,topsandtailsremoved,andcutdiagonallyinto

thickslicessaltsmallpinchofcastersugar,toserve

1Mixthechillipowder,turmeric,amchoor,salttoseasonandgramflourinabowltogetherwithalittlebitofwatertomakeathickbatter.2Heatenoughoilinafryingpantoholdasinglelayerofokra.Diptheokrainthebatter,letanyexcessbatterdripoffbeforefryingandfrytheminbatchesfor4–5minutesuntilcrispandgolden.Youmayneedtoseparatethefryingokrawithafork,astheflourcanmakethemclumptogether.3Removefromtheoilwithaslottedspoon,drainonkitchenpaperandservehotwithasprinklingofcastersugar.

GucchiKorma

[MUSHROOMANDPEAKORMA]

MushroomshavebeencultivatedinIndiaonlyforthepast40yearsorso.Earlier,foragersusedtogathersmallquantitiesforhomeusebuttheywereneverconsideredamainstreamvegetable.Ayurvedaclassifiesthemas‘tamasic’orunpalatable,promotinglazinessandpessimism.Withtheincreaseinfarmedclosed-cupmushrooms,oneseestheminIndianmarketsandonrestaurantmenusbutsomepeoplestillavoidthembecauseofAyurvedicthinking.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING40minutes

1largeonion,sliced1freshgreenchilli,chopped50gunsaltedcashewnuts2tablespoonsvegetableoil2

teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste200gclosedcupmushrooms,sliced100gfrozengreenpeas1teaspoongroundcoriander1teaspoongroundcumin1teaspoongarammasala,plusextra

toserve1teaspoongroundturmeric1tablespoonsinglecream(optional)saltPooris,Rotisorboiledrice,toserve

1Puttheonion,chilliandcashewnutsinapanwithjustenoughwatertocoverthemandbringtotheboil.Simmerforabout10minutes,untiltheonionisverysoft,thentransfertoablenderandblitztoasmoothpaste.Setaside.2Heattheoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheat.Addtheginger-garlicpaste,cookfor30seconds,thenaddthemushroomsandpeastothepan.Seasonwithsaltandstirinthegroundspices.Cookforafewminutes,untilthemushroomsreleasetheirjuicesandthespicescook,thenaddtheonionandcashewpaste.3Cookfor7–8minutesuntilthepeasaredone.Stirinthecream,ifusing.Seasontotaste,heatthrough,sprinklewithapinchofgarammasalaandservehotwithpooris,rotisorrice.

BanarasiAloo

[POTATOESWITHTAMARINDANDCREAM]

Theadditionofcreammakesthislovelyreciperichenoughtobeservedatparties.Banaras,VaranasiorKashi,asitisvariouslyknown,issituatedonthebanksoftheriverGangainUttarPradeshandisoneoftheholiestcitiesforaHindubecauseofitsancientShivatemple.Thecuisineisamixofvariousstylesbutvegetariancookeryisespeciallypopularforreligiousreasons.Thisrecipedemonstrateshowrichingredientsareaddedtohumblevegetablessuchasthepotatotomakearatherfestivedish.

Serves4PREPARATION→55minutesCOOKING40minutes

200gpotatoes2tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspoonfennelseeds1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder,mixedwith2tablespoonsofwater2teaspoonstamarindpulporshop-boughttamarindpaste2tablespoonstomatopurée2tablespoonssinglecreamsalt1teaspoongarammasala,toserve

1Boilthepotatoesintheirskins,thenpeelandcutinto2cmcubes.2Heattheoilinasaucepanoverahighheat,thenaddthefennelseeds.Whentheydarken,addthechilliwater.Cookfor1minute,untilthewaterevaporates,thenaddthetamarindandtomatopurée.Cookforafewseconds.Foldinthecookedpotatoes,seasonwithsaltandpourinthecream.Heatthrough,addingalittlewatertomakeathicksauce.3Sprinklewiththegarammasalaandservehot.

DoodhiChana

[BOTTLEGOURDWITHCHANADAL]

Bottlegourd,‘doodhi’,‘dudhi’or‘lauki’,isawaterybutnutritiousvegetablethatcantakeontheflavourofthespicesitiscookedin.Youcanswapthechanadalforatinofchickpeasforaspeedierversion.Thisrecipeismadealloverthecentral,westernandnorthernpartsofIndia.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,plus30minutessoakingtimeCOOKING30minutes

2tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspooncuminseeds1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste1teaspoongroundturmeric3tablespoonssplitgramlentils(chanadal),soakedinwarmwaterfor30minutesand

drained1mediumdoodhi(bottlegourd),peeledandcutinto2cmcubes1teaspoongroundcoriander1freshtomato,choppedahandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,choppedsaltRotiorboiledrice,toserve

1Heattheoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheat,addthecuminseedsandfryuntiltheydarken,thenaddtheginger-garlicpasteandturmeric.Stirforafewseconds,thenaddthelentilsandpourin150mlwater.Bringtotheboil,reducetheheatandsimmerforabout10minutes,addingmorewaterifitdriesout.2Tipinthedoodhi,thenaddthegroundcoriander,tomatoandseasonwithsalt.Mixwell,addasplashofwaterandbringtotheboil.Thedoodhiwillreleaseitsjuicesduetotheaddedsalt.Reducetheheat,coverandsimmerfor10minutes.

3Removefromtheheat,seasontotaste,stirinthecorianderandservehotwithrotisorrice.

KarelaMasala

[SPICEDBITTERGOURD]

Thebitternessofthesegourdsisanacquiredtaste,butbeinganaturalbloodsugarstabiliser,theyareeatenfrequentlyinIndianhomes.ManyIndiansarepronetoType2diabetes.AWorldHealthOrganizationstudyfrom2004hassuggestedthatby2030,80millionpeopleinIndiawillhavethedisease,partlybecauseofincreasedprosperityleadingtoanincreaseincaloricintake.Gourdsaresoakedinsaltedwateranddrainedtoremovesomeofthebitternessbutsomepeopleactuallydrinkthiswateraswell,becauseofitsblood-sugar-stabilisingproperties.Lookforbrightgreen,firmfruits.Discardtheinnerseedsiftheyarehard(thesoftonescanbeeaten).

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,plus20minutessoakingtimeCOOKING35minutes

2tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspooncuminseeds1largeonion,finelydiced300gkarela(bittergourd),washed,thinlyslicedandsoakedinsaltedwaterfor20minutes1teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowdersaltRotis,ParathasorNaans,toserve

1Heattheoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheat,thenaddthecuminseeds.Fryuntiltheydarken,thenaddtheonionandfryfor7–8minutesuntilsoft.2Squeezeouttheexcesswaterfromthekarelaandaddittotheonions.Reducetheheattomediumandcookfor12–15minutes,untiltheybegintochange

colourandsoften.Continuecookinguntilyoucancutthroughapiecewithaspoon.3Addthegroundspices,seasonwithsaltandmixwell.Continuetocookoveralowheat,stirringfrequentlytopreventitfromstickingtothebottomofthepan,forafurthercoupleofminutes.Thekarelashouldbedry,wellbrownedandslightlycrisp.Servehotwithrotis,parathasornaans.

BagareBaingan

[AUBERGINESINASESAMEANDPEANUTSAUCE]

ThereareseveralversionsofthisveryfamousHyderabadidish,dependingonwhatvarietyofaubergineisavailableorbasedonfamilypreferences,butallcontainsesameandnuts.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING40minutes

2tablespoonsvegetableoil4driedredchillies,halvedandseedsshakenout2tablespoonsunsaltedpeanuts1

tablespooncorianderseeds1mediumonion,sliced2tablespoonsfreshlygratedordesiccatedcoconut1tablespoonwhitesesameseeds1

tablespoonginger-garlicpaste1teaspoongroundturmeric250gwholesmallauberginesor1largeaubergine,diced2teaspoonstamarindpulporshop-

boughttamarindpaste1tablespoonjaggeryorsoftbrownsugarasmallhandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped,togarnishsalt

1Heathalftheoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheatandaddthechillies,peanutsandcorianderseeds.Fryuntiltheyturndark,thenaddtheonion.Continuefrying,stirringfromtimetotime,andwhentheonionturnsgoldenbrown,addthecoconutandsesameseeds.Asthecoconutstartstobrown,addtheginger-garlicpasteandmixwell.Removefromtheheat,leavetocoolslightlythentransfertoablender,addenoughwatertocoverandblitztomakeafinepaste.Seasonwithsalt,stirintheturmericandsetaside.2Keepingthestemintact,slittheauberginestwiceinacrossnearlyallthewaytothestem.Stuffeachauberginewiththecurrypaste.Ifthereissomeleftover,reservethisforthesauce.Ifusingdicedaubergine,proceedtothenextstep.3Heattheremainingoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheat.Putthe

stuffedauberginesinthepanandfryforacoupleofminutes.Addtheremainingcurrypaste(orallofitifusingdicedaubergine).Pourinthetamarindpulp,sprinkleinthejaggeryandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmer,addingmorewaterasrequired,for25–30minutesuntiltheauberginesarecookedthrough.4Seasontotasteandservehot,sprinkledwiththecoriander.

BharelaRinganNuShak

[STUFFEDBABYAUBERGINES]

ManyIndianregionshavearecipeforstuffedaubergines–thisoneisfromGujaratandusespeanutsandgramflourtothickenandflavourthesauce.InMaharashtracooksuselocalcoconutandinthenorth,thestuffingmighthaveonionsandtomatoes.Ihavechosenthisoneforitsnuttyfragrance.Ifyoucan’tfindthesmallvarietyofaubergines,thisrecipecanstillbemadewithlargeauberginescutintoadiceandcookedinthesauceratherthanbeingstuffedwithit.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING45minutes

2tablespoonsgramflour1x400gcanofchoppedtomatoes2teaspoonsunsaltedpeanuts,crushed1tablespoon

ginger-garlicpasteahandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped½teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder300gsmallaubergines,slitlengthwaysbutstalks

lefton2tablespoonsvegetableoil½teaspoonblackmustardseedssaltRotisorGujaratiDalandboiledrice,toserve

1Combinethegramflour,tomatoes,peanuts,ginger-garlicpaste,corianderleaves,groundspicesandsaltinamixingbowl.Stufftheaubergineswiththismixture,savinganythatisleftoverforthecurry.2Heattheoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheat.Addthemustardseedsandfryuntiltheybegintopop,thengentlyplacethestuffedauberginesinthepanandpourinanyleftoverspicemixture.Pourinafewtablespoonsofwaterandcoverthepan.Bringtotheboil,reducetheheatandsimmerfor25minutesoruntiltheauberginesarecooked.Keepaddingwaterasnecessarytopreventthemixturefromsticking.Seasontotasteandservehot–thesauceshouldbequitethick–withrotisorGujaratidalandrice.

AlooMethi

[FENUGREEKLEAVESWITHPOTATO]

Freshfenugreek(methi)issoldinbuncheswiththerootsstillintact.Theleavesarepluckedoffandthelargestemsandrootsarediscarded.Ifyoucan’tfindfreshfenugreek,substituteitwithdriedfenugreek,called‘kasoorimethi’,whichissoldinIndiangroceryorspiceshops.Cuttingthepotatoesintosmallchunksmeanstheycookfasterandabsorbtheflavoursbetter.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING35minutes

1tablespoonvegetableoil1teaspooncuminseeds2onions,finelydiced1freshgreenchilli,finelydiced2largepotatoes,peeledandcutinto2cmcubes½teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongroundcoriander1bunchfreshfenugreek(methi),leavespicked,washedandfinelychoppedor2tablespoons

driedfenugreekleaves(kasoorimethi)saltRotisorboiledriceandlentils(tryAamti),toserve

1Heattheoilinaheavy-basedpanoverahighheat,addthecuminseedsandfryfor20secondsuntiltheydarken,thenaddtheonionsandchilliandcookfor5–6minutesuntilsoft.2Tipinthepotatoesandfrywellforafewminutes,untilstartingtobrown.Addthegroundspicesandcookforafewseconds,thenstirinthefenugreekleavesandseasonwithsalt.Coverandcookoveralowheatfor25minutes,untilthepotatoesaretenderandyoucanpiercethemeasilywithaknife.Topreventthepotatoesfromstickingtothebottomofthepan,placeaconvexlidonthepan

andfillitwithafewtablespoonsofcoldwater.Asthevegetablesheatup,steamthathitstheinsideofthelidcondensesandfallsbackintothepan,providingabitofmoisture.3SeasontotasteandservehotwithrotisorwithriceandalentildishsuchasAamti.

MuttakosThoran

[CABBAGEWITHCOCONUT]

Thissimple,drysidedishisaKeralaspecialityandisoftenservedonabananaleafaspartofatraditionalmealsuchasaweddingfeast.Youcanreplacethecabbagewithotherfirmvegetablessuchascarrots,parsnipsorbroccoli.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING30minutes

2tablespoonscoconutorvegetableoil1teaspoonblackorbrownmustardseeds10freshor15driedcurryleaves2freshgreenchillies,slitlengthwayslargepinchofasafoetida

1teaspoongroundturmeric200gwhitecabbage,finelyshredded1tablespoonfreshorfrozengratedcoconutsalt

1Heattheoilinaheavy-basedfryingpanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseeds.Whentheybegintopopaddthecurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter)andchillies.Sprinkleintheasafoetida,stirintheturmericandaddthecabbage.Seasonwithsalt,coverandcookoveramediumheatfor20–25minutes,stirringoccasionally,untiltender.Thesaltwilldrawoutthewaterfromthecabbage.2Removefromtheheat,stirinthecoconut,seasontotasteandservehot.

VangeFry

[FRIEDSPICEDAUBERGINE]

ThisrecipefromMaharashtraissimpleandmakesagreatsidedishwithriceanddal.Thecrispcrustisadeliciouscontrasttothesoftcentre.You’llneedalargeaubergineforthisandtheslicesshouldbeaboutacentimetrethicktoholdtheirshapewhencooking.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING15minutes

1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongroundcumin1largeaubergine,thicklyslicedvegetableoil,forshallow-frying3tablespoonsricefloursalt

1Mixthespicesandsalttoseason.Rubtheauberginesliceswiththisspicemixtureandsetasidefor10minutes.2Heatenoughoiltocoverthebaseofafryingpanoverahighheat.Testthetemperatureoftheoilbydippingasliceofaubergineintoit.Ifitsizzles,theoilisready.Dipeachsliceofaubergineinthericeflourtocoatitonbothsidesandplaceintheoil.Frytheslicesinbatches,for3–4minutesoneachside,untilcrispandgolden.Youmayneedtodrizzleabitmoreoilifthepangetstoodry.3Removewithaslottedspoon,drainonkitchenpaperandserveatonce.

NavratanKorma

[NINE-JEWELLEDCURRY]

Thisrich,slightlysweet,northIndianvegetablecurryhasitsoriginsinMughlaicooking,whichisablendofIndianandPersianstyleswhereyoufindfruitaddedtocurries,unlikeinotherstylesaroundIndia.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes→COOKING50minutes

2tablespoonsvegetableoil1smallcinnamonstick½teaspooncrushedblackpeppercorns3greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusks

discarded2onions,grated1tablespoonginger-garlicpaste2tablespoonstomatopurée3freshgreenchillies,slitlengthways200gmixedrawvegetables,suchaspeas,cauliflower,

carrots,beansandpotatoes,peeledanddicedintobite-sizedpieces(exceptthepeas)1teaspoongroundturmeric

1teaspoongarammasala,plusextratoserve2tablespoonsunsaltedcashewnuts2tablespoonscannedpineapplechunks,chopped,plus3tablespoonsofthejuice100ml

singlecreamsmallsprigoffreshcorianderleaves,togarnishsaltboiledriceandpoppadums,toserve

1Heattheoilinasaucepanoverahighheat,addthecinnamonstick,pepperandcardamomandfryfor1minuteuntiltheysizzle,thenaddtheonions,reducetheheattomediumandfryfor7–8minutesuntiltheybegintochangecolour.Keepstirringtopreventthemfromsticking.Stirintheginger-garlicpaste,tomatopuréeandchilliesandcookfor2–3minutesuntiltheoilseparates,addingacoupleoftablespoonsofwatertohastentheprocess.2Increasetheheatandtipinthevegetables,turmeric,garammasalaandsalttoseason.Mixgently,justcoverwithwaterandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmerfor35minutesuntilthevegetablesaretender.3Foldinthecashewnutsandpineappleandpourinthepineapplejuicewiththe

cream.Warmthrough,seasontotasteandservehot,sprinkledwithgarammasalaandthecorianderleaves.

KumraCharchari

[PUMPKINWITHMUSTARDSEEDPASTE]

ThisisadryBengalidishservedwithriceanddal.Thepumpkincanbeswappedforpotatoes,auberginesorcarrotsbutcookingtimeswillincreaseforpotatoesandcarrots.Thesweetnessofpumpkinor‘kumro’goeswellwiththeslightsharpnessofmustard.Shop-boughtmustardpastesarenotsuitableastheyoftenhaveadditionalingredientssuchaswine,vinegarorwheatflour.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING40minutes

1teaspoonblackorbrownmustardseeds1freshgreenchilli1tablespoonmustardorvegetableoil1teaspoonnigella(kalonji)orcuminseeds300gpumpkin,cutintobite-sizedpieces(skinlefton)saltPoorisorboiledriceanddal,toserve

1Crushthemustardseedsandchilliinapestleandmortarorgrindinaspicemilltomakeapaste.2Heatthemustardoilinanon-stickpantosmokingpointthenreducetheheatandaddthenigellaorcuminseeds.Ifusingvegetableoil,warmitbeforeaddingtheseeds.Tipinthepumpkin,seasonwithsaltandfoldinthemustardandchillipaste.Pourinenoughwatertocoverthebaseofthepanandbringtotheboil.3Reducetheheat,coverandsimmerfor8–10minutes,untilthepumpkinistender.Removefromtheheat,seasontotasteandservehotwithpoorisorriceanddal.

KandaMirchiChaZunka

[SPRINGONIONSANDPEPPERSWITHGRAMFLOUR]

AMaharashtriansidedish,thisistraditionallyeatenwithmilletbreadcalled‘bhakri’.Itcanbemadedry,orslightlyrunnywiththeadditionofmorewaterattheend.Ipreferminetobesoftandsquidgyasinthisrecipe.

Serves4PREPARATION→20minutesCOOKING20minutes

tablespoonsgramflour2tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspoonblackmustardseeds½teaspooncuminseedslargepinchofasafoetida10freshor15driedcurryleaves3springonions,finelychopped1greenpepper,deseeded

andfinelydiced1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongroundcoriander½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowdersaltBhakriorRotis,toserve

1Heataheavy-basedpanoveramediumheat,addthegramflouranddry-toastitfor2–3minutes,stirringconstantlytopreventitfromscorching.Reducetheheatandtoastitfor6–7minutes,untilitdarkensandbecomesfragrant.Removefromtheheat,tipintoabowlandsetaside.2Wipethepan,addtheoilandplaceitoverahighheat.Addthemustardseedsandwhentheybegintocrackle,addthecumin,asafoetidaandcurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter).Fryfor1minute,thenaddthespringonions,dicedpepper,groundspices,salttoseasonandmixwell.Reducetheheatandstir-fryfor5minutesuntilthevegetablesaresoft.3Addthetoastedgramflourandstirwell.Itwillabsorbanyliquidandoiltoformclumps.Breakuptheclumpstocookthem,sprinklinginacoupleofhandfulsofwatertohastentheprocess.Theflourtakesonly3–4minutestocook.

4Removefromtheheatwhentheflourhasabsorbedalltheliquidandhasturnedgoldenbrownandmoist.5Seasontotasteandservehotwithbhakriorrotis.

GodeBatate

[SPICEDPOTATOCURRY]

ThisisaspecialityoftheMaharashtrianPatharePrabhucommunityandusestheirspecialcurrypowdercalled‘Parbhisambhar’.Itismadewithoutonionsorgarlicsoisconsideredsuitableforcalm,fastingdayswhenabstinencefromtheseinvigoratingfoodsisencouraged.Beingquitethininconsistency,itiseatenwithpoorisorotherbread.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING40minutes

2tablespoonsvegetableoil3cloves1smallcinnamonstickpinchofasafoetida1teaspoongratedfreshrootginger3potatoes,peeledandcubed1teaspoonground

turmeric½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoonparbhisambharorsambharpowder

saltPooris,toserve

1Heattheoilinasaucepanoverahighheatandaddtheclovesandcinnamonstick.Whentheystarttosizzle,tipintheasafoetidaandginger.Cookforafewseconds,thenstirinthepotatoes,turmeric,chillipowderandparbhisambhar.Seasonwithsaltandpourinenoughwatertobarelycoverthepotatoes.Bringtotheboilthenreducetheheat,coverandsimmerfor30minutesuntilthepotatoesaretender.Thegravyshouldbequitewaterywithoilfloatingontop.2Seasontotasteandservehotwithpooris.

BatatyaTalasani

[POTATOBATONSWITHCHILLIANDGARLIC]

ThisrecipeismadebytheKonkanicommunity,asectofBrahminsfromKarnatakabothinlandaswellascoastal,towhichmostofmyfamilybelong.Asachild,itwascomfortingtohavethisonaSundaynightwithplaindal,riceandayogurtraita.Thepotatoesarealwayscutinadistinctivebatonshapelikechips,withedgesthatcatchtheflavourofgarlicandchilli.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING30minutes

2tablespoonsvegetableoil½teaspoonblackmustardseeds½teaspooncuminseeds3driedredchillies,splitandseedsshakenoutpinchofasafoetida3garliccloves,lightlycrushedandleftintheskin2largepotatoes,peeledandcutintothick

batonssalt

1Heattheoilinashallownon-stickfryingpanoverahighheat,addthemustardseedsandfryuntiltheybegintopop.Addthecuminseeds,then–almostimmediately–addthechilliesandasafoetida.2Addthegarlicandfryfor1minuteuntilitturnsgolden,thenaddthepotatoes.Seasonwithsalt,reducetheheatandfryfor15–20minutesuntilthepotatoesaretender(thiswilldependonthevarietyofpotatoused).

SindhiKadhi

[VEGETABLESINAGRAMFLOURSAUCE]

IgrewupinMumbaiwithlotsofSindhifriendsandthisdishwasalwaysatreatwhenIwasinvitedtoeatattheirhomes.Youcanuseamixofthevegetablesmentionedintherecipeorwhicheverfirmvegetableyouhaveavailable,suchassweetpotatoes,greenbeansorbutternutsquash(allcutintobite-sizedpieces).Drumstickisalong,thingreenvegetablethathasachewyinedibleskinbuttender,butteryflesh.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING40minutes

2tablespoonsgramflour½x400gcanofchoppedtomatoes2tablespoonsvegetableoil½teaspoonfenugreekseeds10freshor15driedcurryleaves1teaspoongratedfreshrootginger300gmixedraw

vegetables,suchasclusterbeans,carrots,potatoes,aubergines,drumstick,peeledandcubed1teaspoongroundturmeric

1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder3tablespoonstamarindpulporshop-boughttamarindpastesalt

boiledrice,toserve

1Placetheflourinasmalldrypanoveramediumheatandtoastfor7–8minutes,stirringfrequently,totoastitevenly,untilitbeginstochangecolourandbecomesfragrant.Mixthegramflourwiththetomatoesandblitztoapuréeinablender.Pourin300mlcoldwaterandblitzagaintoblend.2Heattheoilinasaucepanoverahighheatandaddthefenugreekseedsandcurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter).Whentheydarkenslightly,addthegingerandstir.Addthevegetables,turmericandchillipowder,thentipinthetamarindandcookforafewseconds.Addthetomatoandflourmixtureandseasonwithsalt.3Bringtotheboil,reducetheheat,coverandcook,stirringfrequently,for30minutesuntilthevegetablesaretender.Seasontotasteandservehotwithrice.

BeansPoriyal

[GREENBEANSWITHCOCONUT]

AporiyalisasouthernIndiandry,sautéedvegetabledishusuallyservedonthesidewithriceorroti.Youcanmakeaporiyalwithanynumberof‘dry’vegetables–cabbage,cauliflowerandotherbeansarefavourites.Thisisnotaspicydish–thechilliesaretheremoreforflavourthanforheat.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING15minutes

2tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspoonblackorbrownmustardseedslargepinchofasafoetida1teaspoonwhiteuraddal,washedanddrained2driedwholeredchillies300ggreenbeans,topped,tailedandfinelydiced1tablespoonfreshlygratedordesiccatedcoconutsaltRotisorboiledrice,toserve

1Heattheoilinanon-stickpanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseeds.Whentheybegintopop,addtheasafoetida,uraddalandredchillies.Whenthelentilsbegintodarken,tipinthegreenbeansandstir.2Pourinacoupleofteaspoonsofwater,seasonwithsaltandcook,uncovered,for12–15minutesuntilthebeansaresoft.3Removefromtheheat,stirinthecoconut,seasontotasteandservehotwithrotisorrice.

VegetableSaagu

[MIXEDVEGETABLECURRYWITHCOCONUT]

ThiscreamycurryisfromthesouthernstateofKarnatakaandiseatenforbreakfastwithDosasorasamainmealwithrice.Thereareseveralversions–Ihavetastedsomewithonionsormintandknowthatsomecooksaddpoppyseedpasteforthickness.Ihavechosenthisrecipeforitssimpleflavours.Trytousefreshcoconutforthis(seeforhowtopreparecoconut).

Serves4PREPARATION→25minutesCOOKING45minutes

1teaspoonblackorbrownmustardseedslargepinchoffreshordriedcurryleaves200gmixedrawvegetables,suchascarrots,beans,peas,cauliflower,cutintobite-sizedpieces(exceptpeas)salt

Forthecurrypaste2tablespoonssplitgramlentils(chanadal)2tablespoonscoconutorvegetableoil1

tablespooncorianderseeds1smallcinnamonstick4cloves½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper1tablespoonginger-garlicpaste2freshgreenchillies3tablespoonsfreshlygratedorfrozencoconut

1Heatafryingpanoverahighheat,addthelentilsanddry-toastthemforafewminutesuntiltheybegintochangecolour.Addhalftheoiltothepanandaddthecorianderseeds,cinnamon,clovesandpepper.Oncethespicesaresizzling,stirintheginger-garlicpaste.Removefromtheheatandtransfertoablenderalongwiththegreenchilliesandcoconut.Pourinenoughwatertocoverandblitztoafinepurée.2Heattheremainingoilinapanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseeds.Astheybegintopop,tipinthecurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter)andthenthevegetables.Seasonwithsaltandpourinenoughwatertojustcoverthevegetables.Bringtotheboilthenreducetheheatandsimmerfor25–30minutesuntilthevegetablesaretenderbutstill

havesomebite.3Stirinthecoconutandspicepastefromtheblender,seasontotaste,heatthroughandservehot.

MakkaiSimlaMirchKiSubji

[SWEETCORNANDMIXEDPEPPERCURRY]

CobsofcornaresoldasstreetfoodinmanypartsofIndiaandthekernelsaresoldinmarketstobeusedincurries.Theyarecombinedwithcoconutinthesouth,onionsinthenorthoryogurtinthewest.ThisisanorthIndianrecipe.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING30minutes

2tablespoonsvegetableoil1largeonion,finelydiced1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste2freshgreenchillies,finelydiced1teaspoongroundcumin1teaspoongroundcoriander1teaspoongroundturmeric2mediumtomatoes,chopped100gfrozenortinnedsweetcornkernels1smallgreenpepper,deseededanddiced1small

red,yellowororangepepper,deseededanddicedasmallhandfuloffinelychoppedfreshcorianderleaves,togarnishsalt

1Heattheoilinaheavy-basedpanoverahighheat,addtheonionandfryfor7–8minutesuntilsoft.Addtheginger-garlicpasteandthedicedgreenchillies.Cookforaminuteorsothenaddthegroundspices,cookforafewseconds,thentipinthechoppedtomatoesandseasonwithsalt.Cookfor2–3minutesuntilthetomatoessoften.2Mixinthecornanddicedpeppers,addabout150mlwaterandstirwell.Bringtotheboil,reducetheheat,coverandcookfor10–12minutesuntilthepeppersaresoft.Checkandadjusttheseasoningifnecessary.3Servehot,sprinkledwiththecorianderleaves.

FlowerchaRassa

[CAULIFLOWERWITHCOCONUTANDPEPPER]

InthiscoastalMaharashtrianrecipe,thecoconutbringsasweetnessthatcontrastswiththeslightbitternessofthecauliflower.Iusethetendergreenstalksaswell–inmyhomethesearethemostcovetedpartofthisdish!

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING40minutes

2tablespoonsvegetableoil10blackpeppercorns5cloves1tablespooncorianderseeds2onions,finelychopped3tablespoonsfreshlygratedcoconutordesiccatedcoconut½largeheadofcauliflower,cut

intoflorets1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder2largetomatoes,finelychoppedsalt

boiledriceandalentildish,suchasTarkaDal,orPooris,toserve

1Heathalftheoilinaheavy-basedfryingpanoverahighheat,addthepeppercorns,clovesandcorianderseedsandfryuntiltheysizzle.Addtheonionsandfryuntiltheystarttobrown,thenreducetheheatandcontinuecookingfor8–10minutesuntiltheyareverysoft.Stirinthecoconutandcontinuetobrownfor2–3minutes.2Removefromtheheat,leavetocoolslightlythentransfertoablenderwithalittlewaterandblitztoafinepaste.Setaside.3Heattheremainingoilinalargefryingpanoverahighheat,addthecauliflowerandstir-fryforacoupleofminutes.Addthegroundspices,tomatoesandsaltandcookforafurther5minutes.4Addthereservedcoconutpaste,pourin150mlwaterandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmerfor10–12minutes,untilthecaulifloweriscookedbutfirm.5SeasontotasteandservehotwithriceandalentildishlikeTarkaDalorwithpooris.

KobiVatanaNuShak

[GUJARATI-STYLECABBAGEANDPEASSTIR-FRY]

Gujarativegetariancookingisverydelicateastheflavoursofthevegetablesarehighlightedwithjustafewherbsandspices,suchasgreenchilliandginger,andarenotusuallycookedinaheavycurrybaseaswithalotofnorthIndiancooking.Thisrecipeworkswellifthecabbageisveryfinelyshredded.Itshouldlooktranslucentandshinywhencooked.Youcanuseredcabbagehereandswapthepeasfortinnedblackchickpeasifyouwish.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING45minutes

2freshgreenchillies,finelychopped1teaspoongratedfreshrootginger2tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspoonblackmustardseeds½teaspooncuminseeds

largepinchofasafoetida1teaspoongroundturmeric½smallwhitecabbage,shredded150ggreengardenpeas

(freshorfrozen)2tablespoonsfreshlygratedcoconutordesiccatedcoconut,togarnishsalt

1Crushthechilliesandgingertoapasteinapestleandmortarorspicemill.2Heattheoilinaheavy-basedornon-sticksaucepanandaddthemustardseeds.Astheybegintopop,addthecuminseedsandasafoetidaandcookfor10seconds,thenstirinthechilli-gingerpaste.Sprinkleintheturmericandaddthecabbageandpeasatonce.Seasonwithsaltandstirfor4–5minutesuntilthevegetablesstarttoturntranslucent.Coverthepanandcookoveralow–mediumheatfor20minutes.Thesaltwilldrawoutenoughmoisturefromthecabbagetocookit.3Servehot,sprinkledwiththecoconut.

AlooPosto

[POTATOESCOOKEDWITHPOPPYSEEDS]

Whitepoppyseedsor‘posto’arepopularinBengalicookeryfortheirabilitytothickenandflavouradish.PoppyseedpasteisabaseforseveralvegetablecurriesinBengal.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING40minutes

3tablespoonswhitepoppyseeds2tablespoonsmustardorvegetableoil1teaspoonnigellaseeds(kalonji)2freshgreenchillies,finelydiced2largepotatoes,peeledandcubed1teaspoongroundturmericsalt

1Makeapoppyseedpaste.Youcandothisinseveralways–bycrushingtheseedswithsomewaterinapestleandmortar,whichcanbeabittimeconsuming,byblitzingtheseedswithsomewaterinaspiceorcoffeemillorbygrindingtheseedstoapowderinaspicemill,thenmixingthemwithwater.2Heatthemustardoilinafryingpanoverahighheattosmokingpoint,thenreducetheheatandaddthenigellaseedsandchillies.Ifusingvegetableoil,warmitbeforeaddingtheseeds.Fryforafewsecondsthentipinthepotatoes.3Increasetheheat,addtheturmeric,seasonwithsaltandfrythepotatoesforacoupleofminutes,thenstirinthepoppyseedpasteandaddenoughwatertobarelycoverthepotatoes.Bringtotheboil,reducetheheatandsimmerfor30–35minutesuntilthepotatoesaretender.4Removefromtheheatandseasontotaste.Youcanservethisdishdryorwithabitofsauce(whichishowIpreferit),dependingonyourpreference.

SaagAloo

[SPINACHWITHPOTATOES]

Potatoesareoftenaddedtovegetabledishesforbulkandtexture.ThisnorthIndiandishispopularinIndianhomesaswellasinrestaurantsbecauseofitsstrikingcolour,creamytasteandthewideavailabilityofspinach.Ifmakingthisinadvance,addthespinachatthelastminutewhenyoureheatthecurry.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING35minutes

2tablespoonsvegetableoil½teaspooncuminseeds1onion,finelychopped1freshgreenchilli,diced1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste1tomato,finelychopped1teaspoongarammasala2potatoes,peeledandcubed450gfreshspinach,washed,drainedandfinelychoppedsalt

1Heattheoilinaheavy-basedpanoverahighheat,addthecuminseedsandfryfor10secondsuntiltheydarken.Addtheonionandchilliandfryfor5–6minutesuntilsoft.2Stirintheginger-garlicpasteandtomatoandcookoveralowheatfor2–3minutes,untilmushy.3Addthegarammasalaandthepotatoesandseasonwithsalt.Addenoughwatertobarelycoverthepotatoesandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmerfor25minutesuntilthepotatoesaresoft.Addthespinach,seasontotaste,heatthroughandserve.

Oondhiyoon

[MIXEDVEGETABLESWITHAJOWANANDCOCONUT]

ThisGujaratidelicacymakesthemostofvegetablessuchasaubergines,peasandsweetpotatoes,whichareattheirfreshestintheIndianwinter.Ichopawholebananainitsskinandplaceitontopofthecurrywhileit’scookingtogivethedishadistinctivesweetfragrance.Cutthevegetablesintoequal-sizedpiecesforevencooking.

Serves4PREPARATION→1hourCOOKING1hour

2tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspooncuminseeds1teaspoonajowanseeds4smallaubergines,quartered3smallpotatoes,peeledandquartered1largesweetpotato,

peeledandroughlychopped90ggreengardenpeas(freshorfrozen)1carrot,peeledandchopped

2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste2freshgreenchillies,mincedalargehandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,finelychoppeda

largehandfuloffreshfenugreekleaves(methi),washedandfinelychoppedalargehandfuloffreshlygratedordesiccatedcoconut1teaspoongroundturmeric

1teaspooncastersugar1ripebanana,cutintoquarters(skinlefton)saltRotisorPooris,toserve

1Heattheoilinalargepanoverahighheatandaddthecuminandajowanseeds.Whentheydarken,addallthevegetables.Mixwellandstir-fryfor5–6minutes.2Addtheremainingingredientsoneaftertheother,seasonwithsaltandmix.Placethechoppedbananaontop.Pourinalittlewater,coverandcookoveralowheatfor45–50minutes,stirringoccasionally,untilthevegetablesaretender.Seasontotasteandservehotwithrotisorpooris.

BombayFrankiePurisSevSevPuriVegetablePakoraChickenSamosasKothimbirVadiAlooBondaMasalaCutletsVatanePoheDahiVadaPavBhajiSabudanaVadaSabudanaKhichdiUpmaAlooTikkiMurghPankhiMasalaMacchiKeCutletMuttonKeKofte

EACHREGIONININDIAHASITSOWNSPECIALSTREETFOODBASEDONWHATGROWSLOCALLYANDTHEFOODPREFERENCESANDRELIGIOUSRULESOFTHEPOPULATION.

InIndia,sharingone’sfoodisalmostasimportantaseatingitoneself.Indiansseemtothinkoffoodallthetime.Theymighteatbreakfastbeforeleavinghomebutbuyanibbleontheirwaytowork,thenawaitatiffinfromhomeatlunchtime.Theywouldprobablystopatastreetfoodcartonthewayhome,haveasnackbeforedinnerandthensitdowntoafamilymeal.Itispossiblyoneofthetopthreetopicsofconversationatthisverymomentinmanypartsofthecountry!ThishappensalloverIndia,bothinruralandurbanareas.

Snacks,sidesandstreetfoodhavemanythingsincommon.Theyareservedinsmallportions,theytendtosurpriseandexcitethepalatewiththeirvibrantflavoursandtexturesandtheycanoftendoubleupasamainmeal.So,forinstance,babysamosas,whicharetriangularpastriesstuffedwithspicedpotatoes,vegetables,paneerormeat,maybeservedasacrispsideinalavishfeast,alargersamosacouldbeeatenatteatimewithadipandastreetcartmightbefryingtheseatthelastminutetotemptpassers-bywiththeirfragrance.Roamingstreetvendorscarrybasketsofsamosastosell.

Thesefingerfoodsareoftenfriedtoasucculentcrispnessandservedwithhot,tangyorsweetchutneys.EachregioninIndiaisfamousforaparticularsnackandthelocalsareunderstandablyproudofit.Spicedflakedricecalled‘poha’isservedwithsweetfried‘jalebis’inIndoreincentralIndia.‘Bhelpuri’,adelightfulmixofpuffedrice,gramflourstraws,savourybiscuits,potatoes,tangy,sweettamarindchutneyandahotchilliandcorianderchutneyiseateneverywhere.Hollowpurisfilledwithsproutsandtamarindwaterarecalled‘pani-puri’,‘puchka’,‘gol-guppa’,‘gup-chup’or‘panikebataashe’.

AlthoughasideisnotservedwitheveryIndianmeal,itisonewayofmakingitabitmorespecial,ifoneisentertainingorforspecialfeasts.SidessuchasvegetablefrittersandricecakesarepopularinGujarat,wheretheyarecalled‘farsan’.Thesearesotemptingthatpeopleofteneatthemontheirownasalightmeal.

Indiaisoneofthelargestteaproducersintheworldanditisoneofthecountry’smostpopulardrinks.TeainHindiis‘chai’,sowhenWestern

restaurantsservechaitea,theyareactuallysellingteatea!Whenspicesareaddedtotea,itiscalled‘masalachai’.EverystreetcornerinIndiawillhaveateastallwithayoungemployeeeverreadytodeliverroomservicetonearbybusinesses.

MASTERCLASS

HOWTOMAKECHAATMASALA

Chaatsaresavouryfoods,madewithavarietyofingredients,thatarehighontasteandamixoftextures.Chaatcanalsodenoteasaladbutismostcommonlyassociatedwithstreetfood.Theywillalwaysbedrizzledwithanassortmentofhighlyflavouredchutneys,freshcorianderandcrispbitsofsomekind.Theyarefinishedwith‘chaatmasala’whichisadistinctive,sour,salty,dryspicemix.Italwayscontainsblacksaltor‘kalanamak’,auniquerocksaltthathasastrongsulphuricsmell,alongwithchilli,cuminandamchoor(driedmangopowder),althoughdifferentcooksmayvarytheproportionsinkeepingwithpersonalpreferences.Kalanamakisquitedifferenttothewhitesaltusedincookingandcannotbesubstituted.Itisusedasafinishingsaltinchaatsandyogurtraitas,andisavailableaslargecrystalswhichlookalmostblackorasafinepinkpowder.Chaatmasalaisavailablecommerciallyinpacks.TheseareverygoodandmostpeopleinIndiawouldbuythemforconvenienceratherthanmakingthemixathome.

Makessmallbatchofabout25g

YOUWILLNEED:1teaspooncuminseeds1teaspooncorianderseeds1teaspoonamchoor(driedmangopowder)1teaspoonpowderedblacksalt(kala

namak)1teaspoongroundblackpepper½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder–asmallfryingpan–aspicemillorpestleandmortar–30mlcleanjartostorethespiceblend

1Heatthefryingpanoverahighheat,addthecuminandcorianderseeds

anddry-toastforafewseconds.

2Whentheydarken,tipthemintoaspicemillormortar,coolforaminutethencrushthemtoafinepowder.

3Addtheremainingingredientsandmixwell.Transfertoacleanjarandstoreinacool,dark,dryplace.Usewithin2months.

BombayFrankie

[SPICYWRAPS]

ApopularstreetfoodsnackinMumbai,thisissoldfromtrailersinsomepartsofthecity.Thedistinctivechaatmasalamixsprinkledoverattheendgivesitasavoury,tangytaste.

Makes8wrapsPREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING30minutes

Forthestuffing3tablespoonswhitewinevinegar4freshgreenorredchillies,finelychopped(2forthevinegardipand2forthemince)2tablespoonsvegetableoil2onions,finelydiced1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongarammasala500glambmincelargepinchofchaatmasalasaltForthewrapsvegetableoil,forshallow-frying8Rotis2free-rangeeggs,beatenandseasonedwithsaltandpepper

1Combinethevinegarand2chilliesinasmallglassbowlandsetaside.2Heattheoilinasaucepanoverahighheat,addhalftheonionsandfryfor7–8minutesuntilsoft.Reservetheremainingonionsforthegarnish.3Addtheginger-garlicpaste,theremainingchillies,turmericandgarammasala.Mixwell.Stirintheminceandseasonwithsalt.Cookfor10–12minutes,breakingupthemincewithawoodenspoon,untildone.4Tofinishtherotis,heatatablespoonofoilinashallowfryingpanoverahigh

heat.Dipeachrotiintothebeateneggandfryonbothsidesfor2–3minutesuntilgoldenbrown.Removeandsetasidetodrainonkitchenpaper.5Toassemble,placeoneoftherotisonaservingplate.Arrangesomeofthemincedownthecentre.Drizzlewithsomeofthereservedchilli-vinegarmixture,includingafewchoppedchillies.Sprinklesomeofthereserved,choppedrawonionandchaatmasalaontopandfoldthewrapintoaroll.Maketheremainingwrapsupinasimilarwayandserve.

Puris

[FLAT,CRISPBISCUITS]

Thesepurisorpoorisareeatenaspartofothersnacks,asinSevPuriorontheirown.Theyaresometimesflavouredwithspicessuchascuminorajowan.Typicallytheyareabout3.5cmindiametersocanbeeateninasinglemouthful.Slightlylargeronesarecalled‘mathris’.

Makes40-50purisPREPARATION→15minutes,plus30minutesrestingtimeCOOKING30minutes

250gplainflour,plusextrafordusting(ifnecessary)90gfinesemolinapinchofajowanorcuminseeds1teaspoonsalt4tablespoonsvegetableoil,plusextrafordeep-frying150–180mltepidwater,asneeded

1Combinetheflour,semolina,seedsandsaltinabowl.Pourintheoilandmixwithyourfingers.2Pourinthetepidwater,alittleatatime,untilyouhaveafirmyetspringydough.Kneadwellforafewminutes,thenplacebackinthebowl,coverthedoughwithaclean,dampteatowelandleavetorestatroomtemperaturefor30minutes.3Dividethedoughinto40–50smallballs,eachthesizeofacherry.Rolltheseoutintosmalldiscs(onaflouredsurfaceifthedoughissticky)andsettoonesideonasheetofgreaseproofpaper.Prickeachpuriseveraltimeswithafork.Thisensuresthattheydonotpuffupwhencooked.4Heatenoughoilinadeepfryingpantofrythepurisinasinglelayer.Tocheckiftheoilishotenough,dropasmallpieceofthedoughin.Itshouldriseuptothesurfacewithinacoupleofseconds.Ifitrisesupimmediately,theoilistoo

hot.Reducetheheatandwaitforafewseconds.5Reducetheheattomediumandfryabatchofpurisfor4–5minutesuntiltheyaregoldenbrown.Removewithaslottedspoonanddrainonkitchenpaper.6Youwillneedtoregulatetheheat,increasingthetemperatureoftheoileverytimeyouputinafreshbatchofpurisandreducingtheheatwhentheybegintochangecolour.7Youcanstorethesepurisinanairtightcontainerforupto2months.

Sev

[CRISPGRAMFLOURSTRAWS]

Sevcomesinmanythicknesses,thefinestoneiscalled‘nylonsev’.Usuallythethinneronesareusedtotopstreetfoodsnacksandthethickervariety,sometimescalled‘ganthia’,iseatenonitsown.Thethicknessdependsonthesizeoftheholesintheequipmentused.Traditionallya‘sevmaker’isusedbutthiscanbesubstitutedwithapotatoricer.

Serves4PREPARATION→20minutesCOOKING15minutes

150ggramflour1teaspoongroundturmeric1tablespoonhotvegetableoil,plusextrafordeep-fryingsaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

1Seasontheflourwithsaltandpepperandcombinewiththeturmericandthehotoilinabowl.Mixwell,thenpourin70–80mlcoldwater,alittleatatime,tomakeaveryfirmdough.Greaseyourpalmswithalittleoilandkneadthedoughfor4–5minutesuntilsmooth.2Greasetheinsideofasevmakerorpotatoricerandputthedoughin.Lineaplatewithgreaseproofpaperorfoil.Pressthedoughintoshortstrandsontothelinedplate.3Heatenoughoilinadeepfryingpantocome6cmupthesidesofthepanoverahighheat.Testthetemperatureoftheoil(seeStep4).4Liftthenestofsevstrandsandlowerthemgentlyintothehotoil.Thesevwillsizzleintheoilandthissizzlingwillstopafter15–20secondswhentheseviscooked.Itshouldbelightgoldenincoloursoflipthenestoverandcookforafewsecondsbeforeliftingoutontoaplatelinedwithkitchenpaper.5Whencool,crushlightlywithyourhandstomakeshortlengths(about1cm

each).Youcanstorethesevinanairtightcontainerforupto1month.

SevPuri

[CRISPFLATPURISWITHSPICEDPOTATOES,DRIZZLEDWITHSWEET,HOT,

SOURCHUTNEYS]

Aportionofsevpurinormallyhas6puris.Thelevelofheatandsweetnesscanbepersonalisedbyaddingmoreorlessofthecorianderandmintchutneyandthesweettamarindchutney.Ifyouaddadollopofyogurtoneachpuribeforefinishingthedishwith‘sev’,itiscalled‘dahibatatapuri’.

Makes24sevpurisPREPARATION→20minutesCOOKING15minutes

24Puris2potatoes,boiled,peeledandroughlymashed,seasonedwithsalt,pepperandlemonjuice100gSweetTamarindChutney100gCorianderandMintChutneyyogurt(optional)pinchofchaatmasala80gGramFlourStraws(Sev)afewfreshcorianderleaves,chopped,toserve

1Assemblethepurisonaplate.2Placeabitofthecooledpotatomixtureontopanddrizzleateaspoonfulofeachchutneyoverthepotato.(Ifmakingdahibatatapuri,addaspoonfulofyogurthere.)3Sprinklewithchaatmasalaandsev,andservetoppedwiththecoriander.4Eachpuriistobeeateninasinglemouthfultoenjoythecompleterangeofflavours,texturesandaromas.

VegetablePakora

[VEGETABLEFRITTERS]

Thesedeep-friedfrittersarealsoknownas‘bajji’insouthIndia.Avarietyofvegetablescanbeused,eithersinglyorinacombination(asinthisrecipe).Theconsistencyofthebatteriskeyingettingthisreciperight–itshouldbethickenoughtoholdthevegetablestogetherorcoatapieceofvegetable.Iwoulddescribetheconsistencyasthatofathickcustard–itshouldfalloffaspooneasily.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING25minutes

½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowderpinchofajowanseeds5tablespoonsgramflourahandfuloffreshspinachleaves,finelychopped1carrot,peeledandgratedcoupleofcauliflowerflorets,grated2tablespoonsgratedwhitecabbagevegetableoil,fordeep-fryingsaltCorianderandPeanutChutneyorSweetTamarindChutney,toserve

1Combinethechillipowder,salttoseason,ajowanseedsandgramflourinabowl,adding180–200mlcoldwatertomakeathickbatter.2Foldinthevegetables,evenlycoatingthemwiththespiceandsaltmixture.3Heatenoughoilinadeepfryingpanoverahighheatsothatthefritterswillbesubmergedwhenyoucookthem.4Frythemixtureinbatches,droppinginasmanydessertspoonfulsasthepanwillhold,withenoughroomtoflipthefrittersover.Fryfor3–4minutesuntil

golden,thenflipoverandcookforafurthercoupleofminutestocookthemevenly.Transfertokitchenpapertodrain.Serveimmediately,withCorianderandPeanutChutneyorSweetTamarindChutneyalongside.

MASTERCLASS

ONIONBHAJIAS–OnionFritters

OftencalledonionbhajioutsideIndia,thisisaverypopularIndiansnackallovertheworld.However,theround,stodgyballssoldcommerciallyintheWestareaworldapartfromthedelicate,crisp,irregularlyshapedonesmadeathome.Homemadebhajiasarefrittersofsweet,cookedonionsheldtogetherbyasalty,spicedbatterunliketheonesyoubuyinaWesterntakeaway,whichtastemostlyofflour.InIndia,anonion‘bhaji’wouldmeanastir-fryofonionsratherthanthefritter!Friedsnacksareoftenflavouredwithadigestivespicecalledajowan.Ithasthescentoforeganoandissharpintaste.Ifyoucan’tfindit,substituteitwithcuminseedswhicharealsoknownfortheirdigestiveproperties.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING25minutes

YOUWILLNEED:½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowderpinchofajowanseeds100ggramflour2mediumonions,thinlyslicedvegetableoil,fordeep-fryingsaltCorianderandPeanutChutneyorSweetTamarindChutney,toserve

1Combinethechillipowder,salttoseason,ajowanseedsandgramflourinabowl.Addenoughwatertomakeathick,custard-likebatter.Foldinsomeoftheonions,evenlycoatingthemwiththespiceandsaltmixture.ThetextureofthebattershouldbelikethatforPakoras.Itisbesttoaddasmallbatchofonionstothebatteratatime,asthisensuresthatthesaltinthebatterdoesnotdrawoutthejuicesoftheonionsittinginitandmakethebatterrunny.

2Heatenoughoilinadeepfryingpantoholdasinglelayeroffrittersover

ahighheat.Testthetemperatureoftheoilbydroppinginasliceofonion–theoilshouldsizzle.Frythemixtureinbatches,droppinginasmanydessertspoonfulsasthepanwillhold,withenoughroomtoflipthefrittersover.Fryfor3–4minutesuntilgolden,flipthemoverandcookforafurthercoupleofminutestocookthemevenly.Transfertokitchenpapertodrain.ServeimmediatelywithCorianderandPeanutChutneyorSweetTamarindChutney.

MASTERCLASS

VEGETABLESAMOSAS–TriangularVegetableParcels

ThesearethemostcommonformofsamosaandcomefromnorthernIndia.Themosttraditionalfillingusedismadewithspicedpotatoes.Peasareaddedwheninseason,intheIndianwinter.

Makes16samosasPREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING40minutes

YOUWILLNEED:vegetableoil,fordeep-fryingForthepastry300gplainflour,plusextrafordusting½teaspoonsalt½teaspoonajowanseeds(optional)2tablespoonsvegetableoilorgheeForthe

filling1teaspooncuminseeds2tablespoonsvegetableoil2freshgreenchillies,finelydiced(seedsandall)1teaspoongratedfreshrootginger

2largepotatoes,boiled,peeledandfinelycubed1teaspoonamchoor(driedmangopowder)or1tablespoonlemonjuicesalt

1Tomakethepastry,combinetheflour,saltandajowanseedsinabowl.Heattheoilormeltthegheeinasmallsaucepanoverahighheatandpourthisintotheflour.Carefullyfoldintheoilorghee,thenpourin3–4tablespoonsofcoldwaterandmixwelluntilitresemblesbreadcrumbs.Carefullyadd90–100mlmorewater,asnecessary,untilyouhaveaspringybutfirmdough.Kneadwellfor3–4minutesthensetasidetorestwhileyoumakethefilling.

2Heatafryingpanoverahighheatandaddthecuminseeds.Dry-toast

untiltheydarken,thentipthemintoamortarorspicemillandcrushorblendtoafinepowder.

3Addtheoiltothesamepanandfrythechilliesandgingerfor1minute,thentipinthepotatoandamchoor.Seasonwithsalt,tipinthetoastedcuminandmixthoroughly.Dividethisinto16equalparts.

4Dividethedoughinto8equalpartsandformintoballs.Flattenoneoftheballsandrolloutonaflouredsurfaceintoaflatdiscabout15cmindiameter.Cutthediscinhalf.Moistenthesidethat’sastraightlinewithwater.Foldthehalfintoaconeandpinchthetiptosealit.Pressdownthemoistsidetoseal.Fillitwithonepartofthepotatomix.Foldovertheopenedgeandpresstogethertoseal.Make16samosassimilarly(onerounddiscwillmaketwo).

5Heatenoughoilinadeepfryingpantocompletelysubmergethesamosas,withoutlettingthemsitonthebottomofthepan.Whenveryhot,reducetheheattomediumanddeep-frythesamosas,acoupleatatime,for5–6minutes.Fliphalfwaythroughcooking,tofryevenly,untiltheyturngoldenbrown,thenremovewithaslottedspoonandtransfertokitchenpapertodrain.

ChickenSamosas

[TRIANGULARCHICKENPARCELS]

TheoriginsofthesamosaareprobablyMiddleEasternbuttodayitisoneofIndia’sbest-knownsnacks.TheAin-i-Akbari,asixteenth-centuryMughaldocument,liststherecipefor‘Qutab’,whichthepeopleofHindustancall‘sanbusa’.Interestingly,itgoesontosaythatthemixofmeat,flour,gheeandspicescanbecookedintwentydifferentways.InIndiatherearetwokindsofsamosascalled,forease,theGujaratisamosaandthePunjabisamosa.Thefirstonehasathinnercrustandismadewithpastrysheetsasinthisrecipe.ThePunjabisamosahasathickercrustmadebyrollingoutdoughasintheVegetableSamosasrecipe.IntheWest,wherehistoricallymostmigrantsfromtheIndiansubcontinentarefromthenorth,thePunjabisamosaismorewidelyseen.Traditionally,samosaswouldbedeep-friedinhotoilbutIprefertobakethese.

Makes8samosasPREPARATION→20minutesCOOKING50minutes

1skinlesschickenbreast1tablespoonvegetableoil,plusextraforbrushing¼whitecabbage,finelyshredded2springonions,finelychopped1carrot,peeledandgrated1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepperasmallhandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,finelychopped2teaspoonsplainflour8sheetsoffilopastrysaltMintandCorianderChutney,toserve

1Putthechickenbreastinapan,coverwithlightlysaltedwaterandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmerfor20minutesuntilitiscookedthrough.Drain,coolandshred.2Preheattheovento180ºC/gasmark4andlineabakingtraywithgreaseproofpaper.3Heattheoilinafryingpanoverahighheatandaddthecabbage,springonionsandcarrot.Stir-fryfor7–8minutesuntilsoft.4Addtheturmeric,chillipowder,salttoseason,pepperandcoriander.Cookforacoupleofminutes,thenstirintheshreddedchickenandremovefromtheheat.5Mixtheflourwithalittlewatertomakearunnypaste.Layoutthefilopastrysheetsandcuteachsheetinhalflengthways.Brushonestripwithoilandstackitovertheotherstrip,makingatotalof8double-layerstrips.6Spoonaneighthofthechickenmixturetowardstheleftcornerendofonedouble-layerstrip.Brushthewaterandflourmixturealongalltheedgesofthepastry,thenfoldthepastrytomakeatriangle:liftthetopleftcornerandfolditoverthefillingtobeinlinewiththebottomedge,makingatriangleshape.Nowlifttherightbottomcornerovertothetopandthenthetopleftdownagain.Carryonuntilyouhaveatriangularparcel.Makesurethattheedgesarewellsealedbypressingthemtogether.Brushwithoilonallsidesandplaceonthelinedbakingtray.Repeatfortheremainingandpastrysheets.7Bakefor15–20minutes,turningthemoveroncehalfwaythroughtocookthemevenly,untilgoldenandcrisp.ServehotwithMintandCorianderChutneyfordippingalongside.

KothimbirVadi

[HERBYCORIANDERFRITTERS]

ThisMaharashtrianrecipeismadeinseveralways.Someliketoaddafewmorevegetableslikecarrots,oraddspicessuchascrushedcorianderseedstothemix.Ihavefoundthisagoodwaytouseupbigbunchesofcoriander,andserveitasasidetoamainmeal.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING40minutes

1teaspoonwhitesesameseeds150ggramflour2tablespoonsriceflour1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste1freshgreenchilli,finelyminced1teaspoongroundturmericalargehandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,finelychopped1tablespoonlemonjuicevegetableoil,forshallow-fryingandgreasinglargepinchofbicarbonateofsodasalt

1Heatasmallfryingpanoverahighheat,addthesesameseedsanddry-toastuntilgolden,thentipthemintoabowl.Addthegramandricefloursand250–280mlcoldwatertothebowlmakeathickbatter,thenwhiskwelltoremoveanylumps.2Stirintheginger-garlicpaste,chilli,turmeric,corianderleaves,lemonjuice,1tablespoonofoilandseasonwithsalt.Gentlystirinthebicarbonateofsoda.3Greaseaheatproofdishthatwillfitintoasteamerwithoil.Pourthemixturein–thebattershouldbe2cmthicksoyoumayhavetodothisinbatches.Steamitfor15minutesoruntilaknifeinsertedintothecentrecomesoutclean.Leavetocoolcompletelythencutitintobite-sizedpieces.4Heatenoughoiltocoverthebaseofafryingpanoverahighheat.Shallow-frythepiecesfor3–4minutesuntiltheyaregoldenallover,andservewarm.

AlooBonda

[CRISPPOTATOANDGARLICBALLS]

TheseareeatenasasnackinsouthernIndia,butbabyversionsarealsoservedinathalimealalongsidemaincurriesandvegetablesidedishes.Thethinbattershouldhaveapouringconsistency,sothatitjustaboutcoatsthepotatoballs.

Makes8smallballsPREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING40minutes

2largepotatoes,boiled,peeledandmashed1teaspoongroundturmeric2tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshcorianderleaves2freshgreenchillies,finelychopped

(seedsandall)2garliccloves,finelychopped1tablespoonvegetableoil,plusextrafordeep-frying1teaspoonblackmustardseedslargepinchofasafoetida

1teaspooncuminseedssaltWhiteCoconutChutney,toserveForthebatter150ggramflour½teaspoongroundturmeric

1Combinethemashedpotatoes,turmeric,corianderleaves,greenchilliesandgarlicinabowlandseasonwithsalt.2Heatthetablespoonofoilinasmallpanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseeds.Whentheystarttocrackleaddtheasafoetidaandcuminseeds.Fryforafewseconds,thenpourthisintothepotatomixtureandmixwell.Dividethepotatomixtureinto8smallballsandsetaside.3Placethegramflour,turmericandsalttoseasoninabowl,andwhiskin200–225mlcoldwatertomakeabatterofpouringconsistency.Whiskwelltoremoveanylumps.4Heatenoughoiltosubmergetheballsinadeepfryingpanoverahighheat.Whenitisnearlysmoking,dipeachpotatoballinthebatteranddeep-fry,afewballsatatime,for5–6minutesuntilgolden.Reducetheheattopreventtheball

frombrowningtooquickly.Whentheballsaregolden,removethemwithaslottedspoonandtransfertokitchenpapertodrain.5ServehotwithThengaiChutney.

MasalaCutlets

[SPICYVEGETABLECUTLETS]

InIndiancooking,acutletisabatter-friedcakemadeofmincedmeatorvegetables.Thevegetarianversionismorepopularbecauseitkeepsbetterifcarriedtoworkorschool,andbecauseithasmoreappealinacountrywithsomanyvegetarians.Thesearegreatatteatimeorinalunchboxastheytastegoodhotorcold.

Makes8cutletsPREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING45minutes

2largepotatoes,boiled,peeled,mashedandcooled1carrot,peeledandgratedahandfulofgreenbeans,washedandfinelydicedahandfuloffinelychoppedfresh

corianderleavesahandfuloffinelychoppeddill2freshgreenchillies,finelydiced(seedsandall)1teaspoongroundturmeric

1teaspoongroundcoriander1teaspoongroundcumin1teaspoonamchoor(driedmangopowder)or1tablespoonlemonjuicevegetableoil,for

shallow-frying150gbreadcrumbssaltMintandCorianderChutney,toserve

1Mixalltheingredientsexceptthebreadcrumbsandoiltogetherinabowl.2Heatenoughoiltoliberallycoverthebaseofafryingpanoverahighheat.Shapethemixtureinto8round,flatcakes,dipinthebreadcrumbstocoatalloverandshallow-fry,acoupleatatime,for4–5minutesuntilgoldenbrownoneachside.Removeanddrainonkitchenpaper.3ServehotwithMintandCorianderChutney.

VatanePohe

[FLAKEDRICEWITHPEAS]

Ricethatiscooked,drained,flattenedanddriediscalled‘poha’(‘pohe’istheplural).Thisisavailableindifferentthicknesses:fine,whichisfriedtomakeacrispsnackthatwillkeepforafewdays,mediumorthick,bothusedfordishessuchasthisone,dependingonpersonalpreference.Ilikeusingthemediumvariety,asithasalessstarchyfeel.Finepohawillnotworkforthisrecipeasittendstogetmushywhenwashed.Asitispre-cooked,pohaonlyneedsafewminutesofsoakingbeforeonecanbrieflycookitwithspices.Whensoaked,theflakesswellupintoamassthatcanbeeasilyseparatedwithafork.

Serves4PREPARATION→20minutesCOOKING20minutes

200gIndianriceflakes(poha)1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspooncastersugar1tablespoonvegetableoil1teaspoonblackmustardseeds½teaspooncuminseedslargepinchofasafoetida2freshgreenchillies,slitlengthways10freshor15driedcurry

leaves100ggreengardenpeas(freshorfrozen)2teaspoonslemonjuiceafewfreshcorianderleaves,chopped,togarnishsalt

1Rinsethericeflakesinacolanderundercoldrunningwateranddrain.Sprinklethemwiththeturmeric,sugarandsalttoseason.2Heattheoilinafryingpanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseeds.Whentheystarttocrackle,addthecuminseeds,asafoetida,chilliesandcurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshcurryleaves,astheywillsplutter).Fryforaminute,thenstirinthepeas.Reducetheheattolowandcookfor6–7minutesuntilthepeasaretender.Addtheflakedrice,increasetheheattohighandmixwell.Cookfor2–3minutesthenreducetheheat,sprinkleinabout4tablespoonsofwater,coverandcookfor7–8minutes.Drizzleinthelemonjuiceandremovefromtheheat.

3Servehot,garnishedwiththecoriander.

DahiVada

[LENTILFRITTERSINYOGURT]

Thesearecalled‘dahibhalla’inPunjabiand‘thayirvadai’inTamilandarepopularalloverIndia.Thefrittersor‘vadas’arecrispwhenfried,butafterthey’vebeensoakedintheyogurtforanhourorso,theybecomewonderfullysoftandsquidgy.

Serves4PREPARATION→20minutes,plus2hourssoakingtimeCOOKING25minutes

150gsplitwhiteuradlentils,washedanddrained1freshgreenchilli,mincedvegetableoil,fordeep-frying300gnaturalyogurt2teaspoonscastersugar1teaspooncuminseeds½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowderafewsprigsoffreshcorianderleaves,finelychoppedsalt

1Soakthelentilsinplentyofwaterforatleast2hours.Drainoffthewaterandblitzthelentilsinablenderwithenoughfreshwatertojustcoverthem,untilyouhaveasmoothgrain-freepaste,theconsistencyofthickcustard.Seasonwithsalt,stirinthechilliandsetaside.2Heattheoilinadeepfryingpanoverahighheat.Totestthetemperature,dropinatinyballofthelentilbatter.Itshouldrisetothetopinacoupleofseconds.Gentlydropafewseparatetablespoonsofthebatterintotheoil.Fryfor3–4minutes,turningthemoverafewtimestobrownthemevenly.Whendone,removethefritterswithaslottedspoonanddrainthemonkitchenpaper.Cooktheremainingfrittersinthesameway.3Inanotherbowl,whisktogethertheyogurt,salttoseasonandthesugar.

4Heatasmallfryingpanoverahighheat,addthecuminseedsanddry-toastuntiltheydarken,thentipthemintoapestleandmortarorspicemillandcrushorblendtoafinepowder.Stirhalfofthisintotheyogurtalongwithsomeofthechillipowder.5Justbeforeserving,soakthefrittersintheyogurt.Todothis,diptheminwater,squeezethemout,thenaddthemtotheyogurt.Servecool,sprinkledwiththeremainingcuminandchillipowderandcorianderleaves.

PavBhaji

[CRUSHEDVEGETABLECURRYWITHBUTTEREDROLLS]

Aquickstreetmeal,restaurantversionsofthistangy,wholesomecurrycomewithadollopofbutteranddicedonionsontop.

Serves4PREPARATION→20minutesCOOKING40minutes

2tablespoonsvegetableoil2mediumonions,finelydiced1tablespoonginger-garlicpaste2smallfreshgreenchillies,finelychopped3largetomatoes,finelydiced1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongroundcoriander1x400gcanofchickpeas,drainedandrinsed200gmixedrawvegetables,suchcarrotsand

beans(bothfinelydiced)andpeas2tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshcorianderleavessalt

breadrollsandbutter,toserve

1Heattheoilinaheavy-basedfryingpan,addtheonionsandfryfor7–8minutesuntilsoft.2Addtheginger-garlicpasteandchilliesandfryforafewseconds,thenstirinthetomatoesandfryfor5–6minutesuntilverysoft.3Addthegroundspicesthenaddthechickpeasandthevegetables.Seasonwithsalt.4Pourinenoughwatertojustcoverthevegetablesandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheat,coverandcookfor25–30minutesuntilthevegetablesareverysoft.Roughlymashthemixturewithapotatomasher.Sprinkleoverthecorianderleaves.5Buttertherollsandplacebutteredsidedownonahotfryingpan.Fryforaminuteuntilgoldenandservealongsidethecurry.

MASTERCLASS

KHANDVI–SoftGramFlourRolls

ThisGujaratisnackoftenfeaturesinathali.Itisslightlytrickytomake,asyouneedtogettheconsistencyofthebatterjustright–itneedstobelikeathickcustardthat’sspreadable,sothatwhenit’scoolitsetsintoathinsheetratherthanathickslab.InIndia,yogurtthathassouredoveracoupleofdaysisused.IntheWestyoucanaddlemonjuicetotheyogurttogiveitasourtaste.Withabitofpractice,you’llfindthisrecipereallyeasy.

Makesabout20rollsPREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING30minutes

YOUWILLNEED:200ggramflour200gnaturalyogurt1teaspoongroundturmeric2cmpieceoffreshrootginger,scrapedandfinelygrated1freshgreenchilli,finely

minced1tablespoonvegetableoil,plusextraforbrushing1teaspoonblackorbrown

mustardseedspinchofasafoetidaafewsprigsoffreshcorianderleaves,chopped,togarnish1tablespoonfreshor

frozengratedcoconut,togarnish1tablespoonlemonjuice,toservesalt

1Siftthegramflourintoabowl.Combinetheyogurtwith200mlcoldwaterandwhisktoasmoothconsistency.

2Combinetheflour,yogurtmixture,turmeric,gingerandchilli,seasonwithsaltandwhiskwellsothattherearenolumpsandyougetapouringconsistency.

3Brushametaltraywithsomeoil.

4Puttheflourmixtureintoaheavy-basedsaucepanandcookoveralowheatfor18–20minutes,stirringconstantlytopreventthemixturefromstickingtothebottomofthepan,untilitisthick.Bepatient–itwilltakeabitoftime.

5Oncethemixturehasthickenedenoughtocoatthebackofaladlecompletely,tasteitandcheckiftheflouriscooked;itshouldtastesmoothandmellow.Youcanalsobrushalittleontheoiledmetaltray,waitafewsecondsandcheckwhetheritliftsoffeasily.Removefromtheheatandquicklyspreadthemixturethinlyontotheoiledtraywhileitisstillveryhot.Leaveitcoolfor5–10minutes.

6Whenithascooled,cutthemixtureintolongstrips,about5cmwide,androlleachoneuptightly.Arrangeonaservingplate.

7Heatthetablespoonofoilinafryingpanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseeds.Whentheybegintopop,tipintheasafoetida.Pourthismixtureovertherolls.

8Servecold,garnishedwiththecoriander,coconutandadrizzleoflemonjuice.

SabudanaVada

[SAVOURYSAGOANDPOTATOCAKES]

Sagoismanufacturedfromtapiocarootorcassava,mainlyinthestateofTamilNadu.However,localconsumptionisverylowduetothebeliefthatitisonlysuitableasapudding.MuchofthesagoproducedisexportedtootherregionssuchasMaharashtra,GujaratandMadhyaPradeshwherecookshavedevelopedavarietyofrecipessuchasthisone.Here,thesesagocakesareafavouriteteatimesnackorfastingfood.Sagocontainscomplexcarbohydratesthatdigestslowly,givingafeelingoffullness.TheircrisptexturegoeswellwithCorianderChutney.

Serves4(Makes10smallcakes)PREPARATION→15minutes,plus2hourssoakingtimeCOOKING45minutes

100gpearlsago2mediumpotatoes2tablespoonsroastedunsaltedpeanuts,finelycrushed2freshgreenchillies,minced(seedsandall)fewsprigsoffreshcorianderleaves,finelychopped1tablespoonriceflourvegetableoil,fordeep-fryingsalt

1Washthesagowell,thensoakitinenoughwatertocoveritby2.5cm.Leavefor2hours,thendrainthroughasieve,spreadoutonaclean,dryteatowelandleaveonthekitchencountertosoftenuntilthepotatoesarecooked.Youshouldbeabletosquashasagopearleasilybetweenthethumbandindexfingerwhenit’sreadytocook.2Meanwhile,boilthepotatoesintheirskinsuntilyoucanpierceoneeasilywithaknife.Cookingthemintheirskinswillhelpthemabsorblesswaterasthey

cook.3Peelandmashthepotatoes.Inabowl,combinethedrainedsago,potatoes,peanuts,chillies,coriander,riceflourandsalttoseason.Kneadwellforafewminutes,thenshapeinto10equallime-sizedballs.Flatteneachone.4Heatenoughoilfordeepfryinginalargefryingpanoverahighheat.Whenalmostsmoking,reducetheheatanddeep-frythepattiesinbatchesfor5–6minutes.Iftheybegintobreakup,dustthemwithriceflourbeforefryingthem.Servehot.

SabudanaKhichdi

[SPICEDPEARLSAGO]

Sagoismadefromtapiocastarchandissoldastiny‘pearls’.Youcanbuythemintwosizes:thesmallonesareusedinpuddingsandsomesavourydishesthatmakethemostoftheirstarchytexture.Iuselargesagopearlsforthisrecipeastheyfluffupintoseparategrains.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,plus1hoursoakingtimeand3hoursdrainingtimeCOOKING20minutes

150gpearlsago80groastedunsaltedpeanuts,roughlycrushedpinchofcastersugar2tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspooncuminseeds2freshgreenchillies,slitlengthways10freshor15driedcurryleaves1potato,peeledand

cutintosmalldice2tablespoonsfreshlygratedordesiccatedcoconut(soakedinwarmwaterfor30minutesanddrained,ifusingdesiccated)asmallhandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped,togarnish2teaspoonslemonjuice

salt

1Washthesagowellthensoakitinenoughwatertocoveritby2.5cm.Leavefor1hour,thendrainthroughasieve,spreadoutonaclean,dryteatowelandleaveonthekitchencountertosoften.After3hours,thewatershouldbecompletelyabsorbed.Thedrainingtimecanvarydependingonthequalityofthesago–asagopearlshouldsquasheasilybetweenthethumbandindexfingerwhenitisreadytobecooked.2Mixthecrushedpeanuts,salttoseasonandsugarintothesago.Setaside.3Heattheoilinafryingpanoverahighheatandaddthecuminseeds.Fryuntiltheydarken,thenaddthechilliesandcurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter).Addthepotato,seasonwithsaltandfryfor4–5minutesuntilgolden.Reducetheheatandcookfor8–10minutesuntilthepotatoesaretender.

4Addthesago.Cookoveraverylowheat,stirring,for5–6minutesuntilthesagoissoftallthewaythrough.5Sprinkleoverthecoconut,corianderleavesandlemonjuiceandservehot.

Upma

[SAVOURYSEMOLINA]

ThissouthIndianbreakfastfoodcanalsobeeatenatteatime.Itssoftsquidgytextureandsavoury,slightlysweettastegoeswellwithCorianderandPeanutChutney.ItcanbemadewitheitherfineorcoarsesemolinabutIpreferthecoarseoneforitssandy,grainytexture.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING25minutes

200gcoarseorfinesemolina2tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspoonblackmustardseeds½teaspooncuminseeds

2smallfreshgreenchillies,slitlengthways10freshor15driedcurryleaves1tablespoonunsaltedcashewnutslargepinchofasafoetida

4tablespoonsfrozengreenpeas1teaspooncastersugarasmallhandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped,togarnish1tablespoonlemonjuicesalt

1Heatafryingpanoveramediumheat,addthesemolinaanddry-toastfor4–5minutesuntilitstartstoturnbrown.Tipintoabowlandsetaside.2Heattheoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheatthenaddthemustardseeds.Assoonastheystarttopop,addthecuminseedsandfryforafewsecondsuntilslightlydark,thenaddthechillies,curryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter),cashewnutsandasafoetida.Cookforafewsecondsuntilthecashewsstarttoturngolden.3Tipinthepeas,addthetoastedsemolina,sugarandseasonwithsalt.Standingawayfromthepan,pourin400mlboiling-hotwaterandbringtotheboil.Thehotwaterwillmakethesemolinaspluttersobecareful.4Reducetheheatandsimmerfor6–7minutes,stirring,untilallthewaterhasbeenabsorbedandthesemolinaleavesthesidesofthepan.5Loosenwithaforkandservehot,sprinkledwiththecorianderanddrizzled

withlemonjuice.

AlooTikki

[POTATOCAKES]

TheseareverypopularallovernorthandcentralIndiaasateatimeorstreetsnack,althoughpattiesmadewithmashedpotatoareeatenalloverIndia.Inthesouth,theyareflavouredwithmustardseedsandcurryleavesandarecalled‘bondas’,whereasonthestreetsofMumbai,theyareservedwithachickpeacurryandcalled‘pattice’.Theycanbeflavouredorplain,servedwithachickpeacurrysuchasCholay,orsimplywithsomesweetorhotchutneyandplainyogurt.

Makes8potatocakesPREPARATION→20minutesCOOKING35minutes

2largepotatoes,boiled,peeledandmashed1teaspoongroundturmericafewsprigsoffreshcorianderleaves,finelychopped1freshgreenchilli,finelydiced(seeds

andall)2slicesofwhitebread,soakedinwaterandsqueezedtoremoveallwatervegetableoil,forshallow-frying2tablespoonsplainflour

salt

1Combinethemashedpotatoinabowlwiththeturmeric,coriander,chilliandbread,seasonwithsaltandkneadtogether.Shapeinto8thick,flatrounds.2Heatenoughoiltoliberallycoverthebaseofafryingpanoverahighheat,dipeachpotatocakeintheflourandshallow-frythecakesacoupleatatimefor5–6minutes,turningthemoveruntilbothsidesaregolden.Removeanddrainonkitchenpaper.3Servehotwithcurry,orchutneyandplainyogurt.

MurghPankhiMasala

[MASALACHICKENWINGS]

InIndia,thiseasyrecipeiseatenasasnackathomeoratsmall,roadsiderestaurantscalled‘dhabas’whicharefoundonhighwaysandactastruckstops.Asmostlong-distancetruckdriversareofPunjabidescent,theseeateriesservenorthIndianfoodwhichiswholesomeandtasteshomemade.The‘dhabas’areearthyrestaurants,oftenopenairwithwoodentablesandbencheswherepeoplestopforaquickmeal.Cityfolkwillsometimesdriveouttoadhabaforthedelicious,freshfoodonoffer.Youcanswapthewingsforcubedchickenbreastifyouwantabonelessversion.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,plus30minutesmarinatingtime(orideallyovernight)COOKING15minutes

1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1tablespoongroundcumin400gchickenwings,skinnedvegetableoil,fordeep-frying3tablespoonscornfloursalt

1Combinetheginger-garlicpaste,chillipowder,cuminandsalttoseasoninabowl.Tipinthewings,coattheminthemarinade,coverandmarinateforatleast30minutesorovernightinthefridgeifpossible.2Heatenoughoilfordeep-fryinginadeepfryingpan.Oncetheoilisveryhot,dipeachwinginthecornfloursothatitisevenlycoatedanddeep-frytheminbatchesfor6–7minutes.Makesurethattheyarecookedthroughbycuttingoneopentocheckthefleshiswhiteallthewaytothebone.Removewithaslottedspoonanddrainonkitchenpaper.Servehot.

MacchiKeCutlet

[INDIANFISHCAKES]

HerethefishisspicedandflavouredtotakeawaythesmellthatsomeIndiansfinddistasteful.Ihaveusedtinnedtunabutyoucouldcookandflakeanyfishsuchascod,coleyorevenfrozensalmon.InIndia,cookswoulduselocalfishsuchas‘rohu’inBengalor‘surmai’inMumbaiforthisrecipe.

Makes8fishcakesPREPARATION→15minutes,plus30minutessoakingtimeCOOKING20minutes

2x120gtinsoftunainbrine,welldrainedjuiceof1lemon½teaspooncuminseeds1freshgreenchilli,minced½teaspoongarammasala2slicesofwhitebread,soakedinwaterandsqueezedtoremoveallwaterahandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,finelychoppedafewsprigsofdill,finelychoppedvegetableoil,forshallow-frying2tablespoonsplainfloursaltMintandCorianderChutney,toserve

1Squeezeoutallthewaterfromthetunaandcombinethetunawiththelemonjuiceinamixingbowl.Setasidefor30minutes.2Heatasmallfryingpanoverahighheat,addthecuminseedsanddry-toastfor30secondsuntiltheydarken.Tipthemintoapestleandmortarorspicemillandcrushorblendtoafinepowder.3Addthecrushedcumin,chilliandgarammasalatothetunaandseasonwithsalt.

4Crumblethebreadintothebowl.Mixinthecorianderanddill.Shapethemixtureinto8equal-sizedballsandflatten.5Heatenoughoiltocoverthebaseofafryingpanoverahighheat.Dipeachfishpattyinflour,shakeofftheexcessandshallow-fryfor4–5minutesoneachsideuntilgoldenbrown.6DrainonkitchenpaperandservewarmwithMintandCorianderChutney.

MuttonKeKofte

[MINILAMBKOFTAS]

Thesearesosimpletoprepareandsodeliciousthatyouwillfindyourselfmakingthemquiteoftenonceyou’vetastedthem!InIndiatheyareservedasateatimeorpartysnack,orsometimesfoldedintospicycurriestobeeatenwitharoti.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING10minutes

150gleanlambmince1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste1freshgreenchilli,mincedafewsprigsoffreshcorianderleaves,finelychopped½teaspoongarammasalasaltMintandCorianderChutney,toserve

1Preheattheovento200°C/gasmark6andlineabakingtraywithgreaseproofpaper.2Combinethemincewiththeginger-garlicpaste,chilli,corianderandgarammasala,seasonwithsaltandkneadwell.3Shapeintolittleballsthesizeofacherryandplaceonthebakingtray.Bakefor10minutes.4ServehotwithMintandCorianderChutney.

ChickenTikkaSeekhKebabsTandooriGobhiMurghMalaiTikkaLalMasalyatliMacchiJhingaHariyaliTandooriMurghMurghTikkaAchariTandooriMacchli

INMANYPARTSOFNORTHINDIA,OPEN-AIRTANDOORIRESTAURANTSSERVEANARRAYOFPOPULARGRILLEDFOODS,SUCHASTANDOORICHICKENANDSEEKH

KEBABS.

Atandoorisacylindrical,clay,woodorcoal-firedoveninwhichmeatsorbreadsarecooked.ItsoriginsaresaidtobeintheMiddleEastalthoughmanyhistorianshaverecordedfindingsofsmallmud-plasteredovensintheIndusValleycivilisation,dated3300–1700BC.

ContrarytowhatmostpeopleoutsideofIndiabelieve,notallofIndiausestandoorovens.TheselargeovensareconfinedtonorthIndiaandPunjabinparticular.InmanyPunjabivillages,thetandoorwasacommunalovenwherewomenwouldtaketheirdoughtobecookedintorotis.

TheMotiMahalrestaurantinNewDelhiclaimsthattheymadethecommunaltandoorahouseholdnamethroughtheirofferingoftandoorifoods.Famouspatronslovedthiscuisinesomuchthatitcametobeapartofstatebanquetsandroyalfeasts.Today,mostnorthIndianrestaurantshaveatandooranditisalmostconfinedtotherestaurantbusiness.Beinga‘tandoorichef’isnoeasything–youhavetobeadeptatputtingyourhandinanoventhatisblazingatupto450°Candpullingoutanaanorkebabattheexactmomentitiscooked.

IndiancookingdoesnotrequireanyovenbakingandmostIndianhomesarenotfittedwithWestern-styleovens.Consideringthis,mostgrilledfoods,suchaskebabsortandoorichicken,areconsidered‘restaurant’foodinIndia.OfcoursethesegrilledfoodsareoccasionallymadeinnorthIndianhomes,onagriddle,butmostpeoplewouldagreethattheslightlycharred,smokyflavouroftandoor-cookedfoodisincomparable.

Grilledfoodsareservedwithahighlyflavouredorcreamydip,slicedfreshonionsandwedgesoflemonorlime.

Inthischapter,IhaverecreatedsomepopularkebabsusingaconventionalWestern-stylegasoven.Thecookingtimeinaperfectlyheatedtandoorismuchlessthaninaconventionalovenasthetemperatureismuchhigherandthethickclaywallssealtheheatin.Awholechickenweighing1.5kgcouldcookin30minutesinatandoorwhereasitwouldtakemuchlongerinagasorelectricoven.Also,cookinginatandoorgivesthatlovelycharred,smokyflavourwhichneverreallytastesburnt.Itisdifficulttoachievethatintheoven,evenunderagrill.

Thehightemperatureinatandoorensuresthatthemeatiscookedandjuicyontheinsideandslightlycrustyontheoutside,withthemarinadecookingintocrispbitsthatclingtoit.Oncetheouterlayerofmeathasbeensealedbytheheat,thejuicesaresealedinwhereasinaconventionaloven,thejuicesdripintothetray,partiallycookingthemeatinsteam.Thetimesandtemperaturesmayvaryslightlydependingonwhatsortofovenyouareusing.Forexample,awholechickenwilltake25minutesper500gat200°C(plus25minutes),or180°Cinafan-assistedoven.

TIPSFORSUCCESSFULGRILLING:1Marinateyourmeat,chickenorfishatleastfor1hourorovernightifpossible,sothattheflavoursofthespicesareabsorbed.Clickhereformoreonmarinades.2Makesurethatyourovenishotsothatthefoodgetsslightlycharred.3Youcanalsocooktherecipesinthischapteronabarbecue–makesureyourfoodiscookedthrough.4Grilledfoodsinsomerestaurantshaveabrightredcolour.Thiscomesfromediblefoodcolouring.Youcanaddthistotherecipeorleaveitout.Omittingitwon’tchangetheflavourofthedish.Mostgoodrestaurantswillnotusefoodcolouring,asitisconsideredunnecessary.Ready-made‘tandoorimasala’,availableinIndianshops,hasredfoodcolouring.IprefernottousefoodcolouringasIthinkitmakesfoodlookunnatural.

ChickenTikka

[CUBEDSPICEDCHICKEN]

Theword‘tikka’,oftenmisunderstoodasa‘sauce’ora‘tandoori-cookedfood’,isactuallyadice-cutofchickenbreast,usuallyaninchinsize.ThewordislargelyusedinrestaurantsinnorthIndiawherechickentikkahasbeenpopularisedasmorselsofhighlyspiced,marinatedchickenthatarecookedinatandoororclayoven.Thesecanbeservedacanapéorasalightmealwithasalad.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,plus1hourmarinatingorovernightifpossible)COOKING15minutes

1tablespoonginger-garlicpaste½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder½teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspoongroundcumin½teaspoongroundcoriander1teaspoongarammasala4greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded2tablespoonsfull-fatyogurt

juiceof½lime400gskinlesschickenbreast,cubedsaltfreshonionringsandwedgesoflemonorlime,toserve

1Combinetheginger-garlicpaste,groundspices,yogurt,limejuiceandsalttoseasoninalargemixingbowl.Addthecubedchicken,stirtocoat,coverandrefrigeratefor1hourorovernightifpossible.2Preheattheovento200°C/gasmark6andlineabakingtraywithfoil.3Placethemarinatedchickenonthelinedbakingtrayandbakefor15minutes.Makesureitiscookedrightthroughbycuttingopenapieceandcheckingthatitiscompletelywhiteinside.4Removefromtheovenandserveatonce,withfreshonionringsandwedgesoflemonorlime.

SeekhKebabs

[MINCEDLAMBKEBABS]

‘Seekh’meansskewers,sothemeatinthisdish,eithermincedbeeforlamb,iswrappedaroundskewersinsausageshapes.KebabsoriginatedinTurkey/PersiaandcametoIndiathroughtheMughals.SeekhkebabsarepopularinthenorthwhereMughlaicookinghasgreatinfluence,andtheyarealsosoldasstreetfoodastheyarequickandeasytocookonsmallroadsidecoalbarbecues.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,plus1hourmarinatingtimeorovernightifpossibleCOOKING15–20minutes

1smallonion,finelydiced2freshgreenchillies,finelyminced1tablespoongarammasala1teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste2teaspoonsnaturalyogurt500gmincedlambasmallhandfuloffinelychoppedfreshcorianderleavesasmallhandfuloffinelychoppedfreshmintleavessaltMintandCorianderChutney,toserve

1Combinetheonion,chillies,garammasala,pepper,ginger-garlicpaste,salttoseasonandyogurtinalargemixingbowl.Mixwell,thenstirinthelamb,breakupthemince,coverandleaveittomarinateinthefridgeforatleast1hourorovernightifpossible.2Preheattheovento200°C/gasmark6andlineabakingtraywithfoil.3Soak12bambooskewersinwarmwaterfor30minutes,andmixthechoppedherbsintothemarinatedlambmince.

4Shapethemeataroundthesoakedskewers,placethemonthefoil-linedbakingtrayandcookfor15–20minutes,turningthemovertocookevenlyonallsides.5RemovefromtheovenandservehotwithMintandCorianderChutney.

MASTERCLASS

PANEERKESULEY–SkeweredPaneerandVegetables

Youcanuseready-boughtpaneerormakeyourown.Ihaveusedthedhungarmethod,popularinthenorthIndianAwadhistyleofcookingtosmokethepaneer.TheAwadhistyleisinspiredbyMughalcooking;and‘dhungar’iswhenasmallpieceofcoalislitandplacedinasmallmetalbowlinsidethepanoffoodtoimpartasmokinesstothefood(seehere).Youcanleavethispartoftherecipeoutifyouwish.

Serves4PREPARATION→20minutes,plus30minutesmarinatingandsoakingtimeCOOKING20minutes

YOUWILLNEED:300gpaneer,cutinto2cmcubes1redpepper,deseededandcutinto3cmcubes1greenpepper,deseededandcut

into3cmcubes1smallonion,cutinto3cmcubes1tablespoonvegetableoilsmallpieceofcoal(optional)2cloves1teaspoonmeltedgheeorvegetableoilMintandCorianderChutney,toserveFor

themarinade50gnaturalyogurt½teaspoonajowanseeds1teaspoonKashmiriredchillipowder1tablespoonginger-garlicpaste2tablespoonslemonjuice1teaspoongarammasala½teaspoondriedfenugreekleaves(kasoorimethi)salt

1Mixalltheingredientsforthemarinadetogetherinalargebowlandstirinthecubedpaneerandvegetables.Setasidetomarinatefor30minutes.

2Preheattheovento200°C/gasmark6,lineabakingtraywithfoilandifusingbambooskewers,soak6skewersinwarmwaterfor30minutes.

3Skewerthemarinatedpaneerandvegetablesinanattractivefashion:Ialternatethepaneer,peppersandonionssothateachskeweriscolourfulandhassomeofeach.Drizzlewiththevegetableoil.Placeonthelinedbakingtrayandbakefor15minutes.

4Removethetrayfromtheovenandplacetheskewersinadeep,liddedfryingpan.Placethesmallmetalbowlinthecentreofthefryingpan.Lightthecoalandwhentheinitialthicksmokehasdiedaway,placeitinthebowl.

5Addtheclovestothebowlandpourthegheeoroiloverthetop.Coverthepanwithatight-fittinglidandsealfor2–3minutes.

6Removethelidandservetheskewersimmediately,withMintandCorianderChutney.

TandooriGobhi

[GRILLEDSPICEDCAULIFLOWERSTEAKS]

Ilovethedramaticappealofthisrecipe.Thecauliflowermustbecookeduntiljusttendertomakethemostofitscrunchandjuiciness.ThisdishisservedinnorthIndianrestaurantswhichhavetandoors.Itisafairlynewadditiontothetandoorirepertoireastraditionalkebabswerenon-vegetarianandmodern-dayrestaurantsarecateringtovegetariansaswell.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,plus30minutesmarinatingtimeCOOKING30minutes

1largecauliflower,leavesremoved1teaspooncuminseeds1smallonion,chopped1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste2freshgreenchillies,chopped1teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspoonamchoor(driedmangopowder)or2teaspoonslemonjuice½teaspoonchaatmasalavegetableoil,fordrizzlingsaltMintandCorianderChutney,toserve

1Cutthecauliflowerintolargesteaksabout5mmthick.Rubthemwithsaltonbothsides,toseason,andsetasidefor30minutes.2Heatafryingpanoverahighheat,addthecuminseedsanddry-toastuntiltheybegintodarkenanddevelopanaroma.Removefromtheheatandcrushtoapowderinapestleandmortar.3Puttheonion,ginger-garlicpasteandchilliesintoasmallblenderorpestleandmortarandcrushtoapurée.4Preheattheovento200°C/gasmark6andlineabakingtraywithfoil.5Stirthegroundspicesintothechillipuréeandbrushthemixtureontoboth

sidesofthecauliflowersteaks.Drizzleoveracoupleofteaspoonsofoil.Placeonthefoil-linedbakingtrayandbakefor30minutesoruntiltenderandgoldenaroundtheedges.6RemovefromtheovenandservehotwithMintandCorianderChutney.

MurghMalaiTikka

[CREAMYCHICKENTIKKA]

ThisisapopularrestaurantkebabandcombinesWestern-styleCheddarcheesewithIndianspicestoachieveasubtle,creamyflavour.Itwascreatedbytandoorichefsinfinediningrestaurantslocatedinfive-starhotels,buttheexactoriginisunclear.Theycanbefinishedwithalightsprinklingofchaatmasala,atangyhotspicemix,forextraflavour.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,plus1hourmarinatingtimeCOOKING21minutes

1egg20gmildCheddarcheese,grated2freshgreenchillies,finelydiced1teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper½teaspoongratednutmeg2tablespoonsdoublecream1tablespooncornflour300gskinlesschickenbreast,cutinto2cmcubessaltpinchofchaatmasala,toserve(optional)MintandCorianderChutneyandNaans,toserve

1Combinetheegg,cheese,chillies,pepper,nutmeg,cream,salttoseasonandcornflourinabowl.Addthechickentothismixture,stirtocoat,coverandtransfertothefridgetomarinatefor1hour.2Preheattheovento200°C/gasmark6andlineabakingtraywithfoilorgreaseproofpaper.3Transferthemarinatedchickentothelinedbakingtrayandbakefor20minutes,thenplaceunderahotgrillfor1minuteorsotogetaslightlycharredeffect.

4Servehot,sprinkledwithchaatmasala,ifyoulike,alongsidenaansandMintandCorianderChutney.

LalMasalyatliMacchi

[REDCHILLIFISH]

Youcanmakethemarinadeforthisdishasspicyormildasyouwish,byincreasingorreducingtheamountofchillipowderinthemarinade.Theflavourofthechilliismoreimportantthantheheat!Chooseafirmfishsuchaskingfish,mackerel,bream,troutorsalmonsoitholdsitsshapewhencooking.TraditionallycooksincoastalMaharashtraandGoa,wherethisrecipecomesfrom,woulduselocalseafishsuchaspomfretormackerel.Youcouldalsousethemarinadeforprawns.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,plus1hourmarinatingtimeorovernight,ifpossibleCOOKING20minutes

1teaspoonKashmiriredchillipowder1teaspoongroundcoriander1teaspoongroundcumin2tablespoonslemonjuice1teaspooncrushedgarlic4x200gfishsteaks,suchaskingfish,mackerel,bream,troutorsalmon2tablespoonsvegetableoilsaltfreshonionringsandwedgesoflemonorlime,toserve

1Combinethespicesinabowlwiththelemonjuice,garlicandsalttoseason.2Rubthespicemixontothefishsteaks,coverandrefrigerateforatleast1hour(orovernightifpossible).3Preheattheovento200°C/gasmark6andlineabakingtraywithfoil.4Placethemarinatedfishsteaksonthelinedbakingtray,drizzlewiththeoilandbakefor15–20minutes,dependingonthethicknessofthesteaks.Gentlypierceaknifeintoasteak,pushopenandcheckthatitisopaqueallthewaythrough.

5Servehotwithslicesoffreshonionandwedgesoflemonorlime.

JhingaHariyali

[PRAWNSWITHGREENHERBS]

Usethebestprawnsyoucanbuyforthisdish.Again,thisisarestaurant-styledishfromnorthIndiawheretheyarecookedonskewersinthetandoor.Youcanusethemarinadewithotherseafoodsuchassquid,oranyfirmfishsuchascodorhaddock.ServetheskewerswithGreenAppleChutneyandsomeofthemarinadeusedforflavouringtheprawns.

Serves5PREPARATION→15minutes,plus30minutesmarinatingtimeCOOKING4–6minutes

alargehandfuloffreshcorianderleavesalargehandfuloffreshmintleaves2freshgreenchillies1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste½teaspoongroundturmeric1tablespoonlemonjuice20largerawprawns,shelledanddeveined(leavethetailsonifyouwish)saltGreenAppleChutney,toserve

1Blitzalltheingredientsapartfromtheprawnsinablender,seasonwithsaltandaddalittlewatertomakeasmoothpurée.2Marinatetheprawnsfor30minutesinhalfofthepurée,settingtheremainderasidetoservewiththeskewersasadip.Ifusingbambooskewers,soak5skewersinwarmwaterwhiletheprawnsaremarinating.3Preheatthegrilltohighandlineabakingtraywithfoil.4Threadthemarinatedprawnsontotheskewers,placetheskewersonthefoil-linedbakingtrayandgrillfor2–3minutes.Assoonastheprawnschangecolour,removethetrayoutfromtheoven,fliptheskewersoverandcooktheprawnsontheothersideforafurther2–3minutes.ServewithGreenAppleChutney.

TandooriMurgh

[TANDOORI-STYLECHICKEN]

Popularlyknownastandoorichicken,thisdishoriginatedfromtheMughlaistyleofcookinginclayovens,andwaspopularisedbythePunjabis.Today,itisconsideredareadilyavailablerestauranttreat.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,plus1hourmarinatingtimeorovernightifpossibleCOOKING50minutes

4cloves3greencardamompods,seedsremovedandhusksdiscarded½teaspoonfenugreekseeds1

teaspooncuminseeds1tablespoonginger-garlicpaste½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder½teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoonground

coriander2tablespoonslemonjuice8chickendrumsticks,skinnedandpricked2tablespoonsvegetableoilsaltfreshonionrings,wedgesoflemonorlimeandNaans,toserve

1Heatasmallfryingpanoverahighheat,addthecloves,cardamomseeds,fenugreekandcuminseedsanddry-toastuntiltheydarkenandbecomefragrant.Tipthemintoapestleandmortarorspicemillandcrushorblendtoafinepowder.2Combinetheginger-garlicpaste,groundspices,chillipowder,turmeric,groundcoriander,lemonjuiceandsalttoseasoninalargemixingbowl.Addthechickendrumsticks,coattheminthemarinade,coverandrefrigerateforatleast1hourorovernightifpossible.3Preheattheovento220ºC/gasmark6orheatthebarbecueandlineabakingtraywithfoil.4Rubthemarinateddrumstickswiththevegetableoil.5Putthechickenonthehotbarbecuegrillorintheovenonthelinedbakingtrayandcookfor45minutes(25–30minutesonabarbecue),turningthemhalfwaythroughcooking,untiltenderandcookedthroughtothebone.Cutopena

drumsticktocheckthatthefleshiswhite.Ifyou’recookingthechickenintheoven,finishbyplacingthedrumsticksunderahotgrillfor4–5minutestogetaslightlycharredeffect.6Servehotwithfreshonionrings,lemonorlimeandnaans.

MurghTikkaAchari

[CHICKENINPICKLINGSPICES]

Picklingspicesvaryfromregiontoregion.Inthesouthfenugreek,chilliandasafoetidaarecommonlyusedinabaseofsesameoil,whereasinGujarat,fennelandcuminarecombinedwithjaggeryandchillitoformahot,sweetbase.MostpicklesalloverIndiacontainamixofmustardseedsandchilli.

Serves4PREPARATION→20minutes,plus1hourmarinatingtimeCOOKING20minutes

1teaspoonaniseed½teaspoonfenugreekseeds½teaspoonnigellaseeds(kalonji)½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper1tablespoonginger-garlicpaste½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder2tablespoonslemonjuice3tablespoonsfull-fatyogurt400gskinlesschickenbreast,cutinto2cmcubessaltMintandCorianderChutneyandNaans,toserve

1Heatasmallfryingpanoverahighheat,addtheaniseed,fenugreek,nigellaseedsandpepperanddry-toastforaminuteorsountilthemixdarkensandbecomesfragrant.Tipthetoastedspicesintoapestleandmortarorspicemillandcrushorblendtoafinepowder.2Puttheginger-garlicpaste,chillipowder,groundspicesfromthemortarorspicemill,lemonjuiceandyogurtinabowlandmixwell.Seasonwithsaltandtastetocheck.Stirinthechickentocoatitinthemarinade,thencoverandrefrigeratefor1hour.3Meanwhile,soak10bambooskewersinwarmwaterforatleast30minutesand

preheatthegrilltohigh.4Threadthemarinatedchickenontothesoakedskewers,puttingafewpiecesoneachone.Placeunderahotgrillandcookfor3–4minutes.Flipoverandcookforafurther3–4minutesuntilthechickeniscookedallthewaythrough.5ServehotwithMintandCorianderChutneyandnaan.

TandooriMacchli

[WHOLESPICEDFISH]

Thiseasyrecipecanbemadewithanyfirmfish–Ilikemackerelortroutastheyareeasilyavailable,therightsizetofitintomyovenandarewonderfullyfirmwhencookedwhole.Punjab,whichmeans‘thelandofthefiverivers’iswherethisrecipecomesfrom,sofreshwaterfishsuchascarp,rohuandtilapiafoundintheBeas,Jhelum,Ravi,SutlejandChenabriversareusedinthatregion.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,plus30minutesmarinatingtimeCOOKING25minutes

1½teaspoonsgarammasala1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongroundturmeric2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste1egg,beaten1tablespoongramflour2tablespoonslemonjuice2x400gwholefirmfish,suchasrainbowtroutormackerel,gutted,scaledandwellcleaned1tablespoonvegetableoilsaltfreshonionringsandwedgesoflemonandlime,toserve

1Combinethegroundspices,ginger-garlicpaste,egg,gramflour,lemonjuiceandsalttoseasoninasmallbowl.2Smearthespicemixtureoverthefish,makingsurethatitisevenlycoatedinsideandout.Leavethefishtomarinateinthefridge,covered,foratleast30minutes.3Preheattheovento200°C/gasmark6andlineabakingtraywithfoil.4Placethemarinatedfishonthelinedbakingtray,drizzlewiththeoilandcookfor25minutesoruntilthefishiscookedthrough.Gentlyinsertasharpknifeinto

thethickestpart.Thefleshshouldslightlyresistbutstilllookfirm.(Itwillcontinuetocookforafewmoreminutesafterit’sremovedfromtheoven.)5Servehotwithfreshonionringsandwedgesoflemonandlime.

KheerePudineKaRaitaKhamangKakdiKachumberDahiKachumberBeetrootRaithaPalakKaRaitaVellarikaPachadiSweetcornSundalCheenikayiRaithaFruitSasamAnanasAurAnarKaRaitaGajarNoSambharoChawliRajmaKaSalaadTikhatKeliFruitChaatVangyacheBhareetBengaliTomatoRaitaMungChaat

ALMOSTEVERYINDIANMEALISACCOMPANIEDBYASALADORRAITA,WHICHISGENERALLYACOMBINATIONOFVEGETABLESANDHERBSWITHYOGURT.THIS

PROVIDESANINTERESTINGCONTRASTOFTEXTURESANDTEMPERATURES.

AlmosteveryIndianmealisaccompaniedbyasaladorraita,whichisgenerallyacombinationofvegetablesandherbswithyogurt.Eachregionhasitsownrepertoire.Inthenorthandcentralpartsofthecountry,raitasaresprinkledwithtoastedgroundcuminandredchillipowder.Inthesouth,theyarecalled‘pachadi’,atermthatlooselymeansraworgreen(‘pacha’)vegetables,thatarecoarselycrushedorbeaten(‘adi’).Pachadialsoreferstotheinnumerablepicklesandrelishes,suchasthetendermangoone,madeinsouthernIndia.Apachadiishighlyflavouredwithsaltandspicessuchaschilliandmustardandthereforeitistobeeateninsmallerquantitiesthanamaindish.Itmayalsoincludelocallygrowncoconut.SomeraitassuchasCucumberandMintRaitahavebeenmadefamousbyIndianrestaurantstheworldover.WesternversionsareverymuchlikethoseyouwouldfindinIndia–onereasonforitspopularityistheeaseoffindingbothcucumberandyogurtinshopsaroundtheworld.

Bothraitasandpachadiscanbemadewithvegetables,pulsesorfruit.Localingredientsarekey,sointhenorth,onewouldseewintercarrotsorsummercucumbers.Gramflourisfriedintolittlepearlscalled‘boondi’thatareaddedtoyogurt.North-growingfruitsuchaspomegranatemakesabejewelledraitaincombinationwithyogurt.

Inthesouth,ridgegourd,withitstoughpeel,maybeusedalongwithamla(Indiangooseberry),tomatoesandsorrelor‘gongura’leaves.BeingclosetotheEquator,temperaturescansoarinthesummerandchillies,withtheirabilitytomakeusperspirebywayofthecapsaicintheycontain,areincludedinfierypachadis.Seasonalmangoesandpineapplearecombinedwithcoconutandchillitomakesweet,hotandtangyraitascalled‘sasam’.Pachadisareoftenfinishedwithatemperingofspiceseeds(seehere)suchasmustardandcumin.

Asaladnotonlyaddsessentialfibretoameal,butalsointerestingtexturesandvibrancyofcolour.Araitawillcertainlycooldownthepalatebutalsoprovidetheexcitementofanewtemperaturelayerinamostlyhotmeal.

Saladsandraitasmakethemostofseasonalproduceandclevercookswillfindinterestingwaystoincludemarketvegetablesintodailymeals.Raitascanbe

sweet,tangyorsavouryandincludeingredientssuchascucumber,tomato,aubergine,mango,carrot,spinach,bananastemorbananas.Theyareservedplainorflavouredwithspicessuchascuminandchilliaswellasherbssuchascoriander,mintanddill.

Mostsaladsandraitasareservedatroomtemperatureormarginallycool.Indiansdonotliketheirmainmealstobecoldandcertainlyneverice-cold!Ayurvedasuggeststhatverycoldfoodshelptoextinguish‘agni’orthedigestivefireinthestomach,makingthesystemsluggishandweak.

HERBSCORIANDER→ThisisthemostcommonlyusedherbinIndia.Variouslycalled‘dhania’,‘kothmir’or‘kothimbir’,itispuréedforcurriesorsprinkledonasagarnish.Itlookssimilartoparsleysowhenbuying,snifftherootsorstalksforthatdistinctivepowerfulfragrancethatonlycorianderhas.SomepeopledescribethisassoapybutIthinkitismoreacombinationofcitrusandginger.Peopleseemtoloveorhatecorianderleaves;ifyouarecateringforsomeonewhodoesnotappreciateitsfineflavour,leaveitout.

Howtouseandstorecoriander–Indiancookingusestheleavesandtenderstemsoftheplantasaherb.Theseedsarethespice.Washtheplantsandsnipoffthelowerstemsandroots.Chopgentlybutfinely,makingsurenottobruisetheleavestoomuch.

Tokeepcorianderfreshforlonger,lineaplasticboxwithafewsheetsofdrykitchenpaperandputthebunchofcorianderin.Ifthebunchistiedwitharubberbandorstring,discardthis.Sealtheboxwithalid.Don’twashthecorianderbeforestoringit.Thepaperabsorbsthetrappedmoisturefromtheherbwhichcancauseittowiltandbecomemouldy.Changethekitchenpapereverycoupleofdays.Thecorianderwillkeepwellforupto10days.

MINT→MostIndiansassociatemintwithchutneyandsnackssuchascrispsamosas,bhajiasandstreetfood,suchasbhelpuri,whichareservedwithit.MintisusedmoreinnorthIndiathaninthesouthasitwasprobablyintroducedintoIndiancookerybytheMuslimrulersofDelhi.Theyusedminttoperfumetheirmeatsand,aftersettlingdowninthefertilerice-richlandofIndia,developedtheircuisinetoincludemanymint-flavouredbiryanisandpulaos.

Howtobuyandstoremint–Mintissoldfreshandisalsoavailabledriedandcrushedtoafineolive-greenpowder.Freshmintshouldbeselectedonthebasisofitsvitalityandcolour.Avoidbruised,blackenedorwiltedleaves.Freshmintkeepswellforaweekorlongerinthefridge–followthesamestoragemethodas

forfreshcoriander.Driedminthasasubtlefragrancebutlosesitsflavourafter3–4months.IamnotfondoffreezingmintorcorianderasIthinktheylosetheircolour,flavourandvitality.

CURRYLEAF→FewsouthIndiansavouriesarecompletewithoutthisherb.TheancientHindupracticeofAyurvedicmedicinereliesheavilyoncurryleavesformanyofitscures.Itlendsitslingeringaromatoadishbutcanbetoochewytoactuallyeat.

Curryleavesgrowonmedium-sizedtreesandaredifferenttothecurryplant.ThetreeisnativetoIndiaandSriLankaandthrivesintropicalclimates.InIndia,theplantisgrownonkitchenwindowsillssothatafewleavescaneasilybepluckedwhenneeded.Astheplantissowidelygrown,theherbischeapandsomevegetablesellersinIndiaoftentossafewfreshsprigsintoyourshoppingbasketfreeofchargeasalittleextra.

Thewholeplant,includingthestems,hasastrongcurry-likeodour.Thetasteisslightlybitterbutpleasantandaromatic.

Howtobuyandstorecurryleaves–Curryleavesareavailablefresh,frozenordried.Freshleaveshaveabeautifulfragrancethatispartiallylostondryingorfreezing.Ifyouhaveabunchoffreshcurryleaves,thesecanbehomedriedforlateruse:spreadthebunchoutonatray,stalksandall,anddryfor2–3daysatroomtemperature.Discardthestalksandstoretheleavesinaplasticcontainerinthefridgeforupto6months.Ifindthisabetterwaytoretaintheirflavourthanfreezingthem.Driedonesarealsoavailablecommercially.

DILL→Indiandillor‘suva’isusedpracticallyalloverIndia.Dillhasanaromathatisslightlyreminiscentofcaraway–warm,aromaticandtingly.ThefreshfrondsareusedtoflavourdalsoraddedtovegetablesidedishessuchasPalakKiSubzi.

Howtobuyandstoredill–Dillisavailableinbunches–choosefresh,green,firmfronds.Overtime,dillstartstoturnyellowanddry–avoidthesebunches.Storedillinthesamewayasfreshcoriander.

MASTERCLASS

HOWTOBUYANDSTOREFENUGREEK

Fenugreekiseatenfreshasavegetable,theleavesaredriedandsoldasaherbcalled‘kasoorimethi’andtheseedsareusedasaspice.Fenugreekhasabitterandlingeringtastebutawonderfulsweet,curry-likearoma.Fenugreekseedsareavailablewhole,crushedorground.ThefreshstalkswithleavesaresoldineveryIndianfoodshopand‘kasoorimethi’issoldinpacks.Kasoorimethiisusedinsmallamountssobuysmallpacksandstorethemawayfrommoistureandlight.Itcanbeaddedtowarmoilatthebeginningofcookingacurryorasafinishingherbattheend.Ifyoucannotfindkasoorimethi,here’showtomakeit.

YOUWILLNEED:abunchoffreshfenugreekleaves–atray–acleanteatowel–alargebakingtraylinedwithfoilorgreaseproofpaper–aclean250ml(noneedto

sterilise)jartostorethedriedherb

1Pluckthefenugreekleavesoffthestems,wash,patthemgentlytogetridofexcessmoisture,spreadthemoutonatrayandleavetodryforafewhoursuntilthereisnomoistureleft.

2Preheattheovento80ºC/gasmark½.Oncetheleavesarecompletelydry,spreadthemoutonabakingtrayandputinthecentreoftheoven,leavingthedoorslightlyopensothatthereissomecirculationofair.Ifthisisnotdone,themethiwillbakeratherthandry.

3Dependingonyourovenandtheamountofaircirculating,itshouldtake

45–50minutestocompletelydrythemethi.Checkhalfwaythroughcookingand,ifnecessary,shakethetraytoseparatetheleavesabit.

4Tocheckiftheyaredone,crushafewleavesbetweenyourfingers.Theyshouldcrumbleeasily.Removethetrayfromtheovenandcoolcompletely.Storetheleavesinaclean,dryjarforuptoayear.

KheerePudineKaRaita

[CUCUMBERANDMINTSALAD]

ThisnorthIndianraitagoeswellwithrichmeatorfragrantricedishessuchasBiryaniorRoganJosh,asitprovidesafresh,lightbalance.Youcanaddachoppedfreshtomatoforaslighttangandcolour.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes

½cucumber,coarselygrated,skinon¼teaspooncuminseeds8tablespoonsnaturalyogurtfewsprigsoffreshmint,leavesfinelychoppedsalt

1Putthegratedcucumberinasieveoverabowlandsqueezeoutmostofthejuice.Thisjuicecanbeaddedtocurriesordals.2Dry-toastthecuminseedsandcrushwithapestleandmortar.3Combinethecucumberinabowlwiththeremainingingredients,seasonwithsaltandserveimmediately.

KhamangKakdi

[FRAGRANTCUCUMBERANDPEANUTSALAD]

ThisfestiveMaharashtriansaladmakesthemostoflocallygrownpeanutsandisservedatcelebrationsandweddings.Thefragranceofpeanutsandcoconutalongwithcurryleavesandmustardelevatesthesimpleflavourofcucumber,makingitaperfectaccompanimenttothemanyvegetables,riceanddalpreparationsthatmakeupaHinduvegetarianfeast.ThecoconutisoptionalintheinteriorregionsofMaharashtra,awayfromthecoastwhereitgrows,soleaveitoutifyouprefer.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING2minutes

½cucumber,veryfinelychopped,skinon2tablespoonstoastedpeanuts,coarselycrushed2tablespoonsfinelychoppedcorianderleaves1tablespoonfreshlygratedordesiccatedcoconut1teaspoonvegetableoil

1teaspoonblackmustardseeds6freshor10driedcurryleavessalt

1Combinethecucumber,peanuts,corianderandcoconuttogetherinabowl.2Heattheoilinasmallfryingpanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseeds.Whentheybegintopop,addthecurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter)thenpourtheoiloverthecucumbermixture.Addsalttoseasonjustbeforeserving.

Kachumber

[ONIONANDTOMATOSALADWITHDILL,CORIANDERANDLIME]

Akachumberisvariouslycalleda‘kachoomer’or‘koshimbir’andismadeoffinelydiced,rawvegetablessuchasradishandcarrot.Commoncombinationsincludeonion,tomatoandcucumber,astheseareavailablealloverthecountry(inHindi,‘kacha’israw).

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes

1redonion,finelychopped2tomatoes,finelychoppedahandfuloffreshdillfronds,finelychoppedahandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,finelychoppedpinchofcastersugar

bigsqueezeoflimesaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

1Mixalltheingredientstogetherinabowl,seasonwithsaltandpepper,andserveatonce.

DahiKachumber

[ONIONANDCORIANDERRAITA]

Thissimpleraitagoeswellwithrich,spicymeatdishessuchasSaagGoshtandDalGosht,andisoftenservedinrestaurantsservingnorthIndianMughlaifood.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,plus10minuteschilling

1largeonion,finelydiced100mlnaturalyogurtfewsprigsoffreshcorianderleaves,finelychopped1teaspooncuminseeds,drytoastedandcrushed(seehere)salt

1Combinealltheingredientsinabowl,chillfor10minutesandserve.Ifmakingitinadvance,removeitfromthefridge30minutesbeforeservingandseasonwithsaltatthelastminute.Addingsaltinadvancewilldrawoutthejuicesfromtheonionmakingtheraitawatery.

BeetrootRaitha

[BEETROOTANDYOGURTRAITAWITHMUSTARDANDCURRYLEAVES]

ThisisasouthIndianrecipebutanorthIndianversionthataccompaniesheavysauce-basedcurriessuchasakormacanalsobemadebysimplycombiningcooked,gratedbeetrootwithyogurt,saltandcrushed,toastedcumin.Thissouthernversionmakesthemostoflocallygrowncoconutandcurryleaves.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING2minutes

150gnaturalyogurtpinchofcastersugar1tablespoonsunflowerorcoconutoil1teaspoonblackorbrownmustardseedssmallpinch

offreshcurryleaves½teaspoonfinelygratedfreshrootginger2cookedbeetroot,coarselygrated1tablespoonfreshlygratedordesiccatedcoconutsaltandpepper

1Combinetheyogurt,salttoseason,alargepinchofpepperandsugarinabowl.2Heattheoilinasmallfryingpanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseeds.Whentheybegintopop,addthecurryleavesandginger.Reducetheheattomediumandcookforafewseconds,thenpourintotheyogurtandstirinthebeetrootandcoconut.Servecold.

PalakKaRaita

[SPICEDSPINACHRAITA]

YoucanusefreshorfrozenspinachforthisrecipefromnorthIndia.Ithelpsaddafreshgreencolourtoamealthatmayhaveabrowncurryandwhiterice,andprovidesavegetablesidedishtothissimplemeal.Inthesouth,thiscombinationofspinachandyogurtwouldbetemperedwithspicessuchasblackmustardseeds,driedredchilliesandasafoetida.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING5minutes

3goodhandfulsofspinach,washed,drainedandchopped150gnaturalyogurt1tablespoonvegetableoil½teaspooncuminseedssaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

1Placethespinachinapanandcookoverahighheatfor3–4minutes.Assoonasithaswilted,removefromtheheatanddrain.2Seasontheyogurtwithsaltandpepperandstirinthespinach.3Heattheoilinasmallfryingpanoverahighheat,addthecuminseedsandfryforafewseconds.Whentheydarken,pourthemintotheraitaandstirin.Servecold.

VellarikaPachadi

[CUCUMBERANDCOCONUTRAITA]

ServedatcelebratoryfeastsatweddingsandfestivalslikeOnam,thissidedishfromKeralaoftenformsapartof‘sadhya’.Thismealcanconsistofuptotwentydishesallservedonabananaleaf.Thesheernumberofdishesthatcomplementeachotherinflavour,temperature,colourandtexturemakesa‘sadhya’mealveryspecial.MealsforlargenumbersofpeopleareservedonbananaleavesinsouthernIndiaastheyformabiodegradableplatethatcanbediscardedwithoutwastingresourcesonwashingup.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING10minutes

½cucumber,peeled,seedsscrapedoutandfleshcutintobite-sizedpieces150gfull-fatyogurt

2tablespoonsfreshlygratedorfrozencoconut1freshgreenchilli1tablespooncoconutoil1teaspoonblackorbrownmustardseedssmallpinchoffreshcurryleaves2driedredchilliessaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

1Putthecucumberinasaucepanwithenoughwatertobarelycoverit,seasonwithsaltandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmerfor4–5minutestojustsoftenit,thendrainandsetaside,savingtheliquidforblending.2Meanwhile,combinetheyogurtwithsalttoseasonandalargepinchofpepperinabowl.3Putthecoconutandgreenchilli,alongwithsomeofcucumbercookingliquidfromStep1,intoablenderandblitztoafinepurée.Addthistotheyogurt,alongwiththecookedcucumber.4Heattheoilinasmallfryingpanoverahighheat,addthemustardseedsandfryuntiltheybegintopop.Tipinthecurryleavesandredchilliesthenpourinto

theraita.Stirinandservecold.

MASTERCLASS

BOONDIRAITA–TinyGramFlourDropsinYogurt

‘Boond’inHindimeans‘drop’andthisisoneofthemostpopularraitasmadeinnorthIndianhomes.Itisquicktopreparewhenusingshop-boughtboondiandthesquidgytextureseemstocomplementtherichnessofnorthIndiancooking.Althoughready-madeboondiorflourballsarewidelyavailableinmanyplacesinIndia,intheWestyoucanfindtheminIndiangroceryshops.However,Boondiarealsoeasytoprepareathome.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,pluschillingtimeCOOKING25minutes

YOUWILLNEED:½teaspooncuminseeds150gnaturalyogurtpinchofcastersugarsaltFortheboondi100ggram(besan)flour1tablespoonfinesemolina½teaspoonsaltvegetableoil,fordeep-frying

1Combinetheflour,semolinaandsaltinamixingbowlandaddenoughcoldwater(roughly150–180ml)tomakeathickbatter.Whisktogethertoremoveanylumps.

2Heattheoilinadeepfryingpanoverahighheat.Whenitreachessmokingpoint,reducetheheat.Holdaperforatedspoonabout10cmabovethepanandpoursomebatterontoit.Itshoulddripindropletsintotheoil.

3Thedropsofbatterwillfloatuptothesurfaceoftheoilquitequickly.Fry

foraminuteorsooncethey’verisentothesurfaceoftheoil,removewithaslottedspoonanddrainonkitchenpaper.Repeatwiththeremainingbatter.Theboondiscanbestoredinanairtightcontainerinthekitchencupboardforacoupleofmonths.

4Heatafryingpanoverahighheat,addthecuminseedsanddry-toastuntiltheybegintodarkenanddevelopanaroma.Removefromtheheatandcrushtoapowderinapestleandmortar.

5Tomaketheraita,combinetheyogurt,salttoseason,sugarandcumininaservingbowl.

6Stirinathirdoftheboondistomakeasemi-liquidraita.Chillforanhoursothattheboondishavetimetosoakupthemoistureandsoften,thenbringbacktoroomtemperatureandserve.Storetheremainingboondisinanairtightcontainerforupto3months.

SweetcornSundal

[SWEETCORNSALADWITHSPICESANDCOCONUT]

Sundalisafestive,drysidedishfromsouthIndiaandistypicallypreparedoncertainreligiousdaysasblessedfood.Foodsthatcanbepreparedquicklyarefavouredsothatthedaycanbespentinmeditationandreflectionratherthanindoinghouseholdchores.Onsuchdays,onecanexpecttohavevisitorswhowillneedtobecateredforbywayofasmallbutfillingsnacksuchasthisone,whichisalsosometimesmadewithchickpeas.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING2minutes

1x200gcanofsweetcorn,drained2tablespoonsfreshlygratedcoconutordesiccatedcoconut(soakedinwarmwaterfor15minutesanddrained)1tablespoonsunflowerorcoconutoil1teaspoonbrownorblackmustardseedspinchofasafoetida

½teaspoonwhiteuraddal1driedredchillismallpinchoffreshcurryleavessaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

1Combinethesweetcorn,coconutandsalttoseasoninamixingbowl.2Heattheoilinasmallfryingpanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseeds.Whentheybegintopop,addtheasafoetidaanduraddal.Cookforafewsecondsandassoonastheystarttoturngolden,tipinthechilliandcurryleaves.Pourthisoverthecorn,mixwellandserveatroomtemperature.

CheenikayiRaitha

[PUMPKINRAITA]

AsimplesidedishfromKarnataka,thisrecipecombinesthecreamyflavourofpumpkinwiththesweetnessofcoconut.ItisservedwitharotiorwithacurrysuchasEggandRidgegourdCurry.Youcanuseanyvarietyofpumpkinorbutternutsquash.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING10minutes

200gredpumpkin,peeled,deseededandgrated2freshgreenchillies2tablespoonsgratedfreshorfrozencoconutsmallsprigoffreshcorianderleaves,chopped

4tablespoonsnaturalyogurt¾teaspooncastersugar2teaspoonsvegetableoil1teaspoonblackmustardseeds½teaspoonwhiteuraddal,

washedanddrainedpinchofasafoetidasalt

1Putthepumpkininasaucepanwithenoughboilingwatertocoveritandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmerfor5minutesuntilsoft.Drainandsetaside.2Blitzthechillies,coconut,corianderleavesandyogurtinablendertomakeafinepurée(youmayneedtoaddalittlewatertoturntheblades).Pouritintoabowl,seasonwithsaltthenaddthesugarandthecooked,drainedpumpkin.3Heattheoilinasmallfryingpanoverahighheat.Addthemustardseeds.Astheybegintopop,addthedalandasafoetida.Assoonasthedalbegintochangecolour,pourtheoiloverthepumpkinandyogurtmix.Servecool.

FruitSasam

[SPICEDFRUITSALAD]

Inthemangoseason,aroundApril–Mayeachyear,KonkanihouseholdsinwesternIndialookforwardtoeatingthisfabulousfruitsalad.Assomeonewhobelongstothisfood-lovingclan,oneofthemostfabulouschildhoodmemoriesIhaveisofeatingthismixedintosteamingrice!

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes

150gfresh,gratedcoconut,ordesiccated,soakedinwarmwaterfor30minutesanddrained¼teaspoonmediumredchillipowder

1teaspoonblackorbrownmustardseeds2tablespoonssoftdarkbrownsugarorcrumbledorgratedjaggery1ripemango,peeled,stonedandcutinto2cmcubessmallhandfulofredorgreengrapes,halved7–8smallcubesoffreshpineapple

salt

1Putthecoconut,chillipowder,mustardseedsandenoughwatertojustcoverthemixtureinablenderandblitztoafinepurée.2Seasonwithsaltandstirinthesugarorjaggery.Mixwelluntilitmelts.3Tipinthefruit,mixgentlyandservecold.

AnanasAurAnarKaRaita

[PINEAPPLEANDPOMEGRANATEINSPICEDYOGURT]

Youcanaddasmallcubed,cookedpotatotothisraitaforaddedcreaminess.FruitisnotoftenfoundaspartofamainmealinIndiaasit’sexpensive–thisisanexception.Theraitashouldhavesweet,salty,tangyflavours.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes

½teaspooncuminseeds200gfull-fatyogurtlargepinchoffreshlygroundblackpepper1½teaspoonscastersugar(ormoreorlessto

taste)¼teaspoonmediumredchillipowderalargehandfuloffresh,cubedpineapple2tablespoonspomegranateseeds

fewsprigsoffreshcorianderleaves,finelychoppedsalt

1Heatafryingpanoverahighheat,addthecuminseedsanddry-toastuntiltheybegintodarkenanddevelopanaroma.Removefromtheheatandcrushtoapowderinapestleandmortar.2Combinetheyogurtwiththepepper,sugar,chillipowderandgroundcumininabowlandseasonwithsalt.3Stirinthepineapple.Pourintoaservingbowl.4Halvethepomegranate,holdthecutsideoverabowlandtaptheskinfirmlytodislodgetheseeds.5Sprinklewiththepomegranateseedsandfreshcoriander.Servecold.

GajarNoSambharo

[WARMCARROTSALAD]

ThisdelightfulGujaratisidedishisservedwithmainmeals.Hereit’smadewithcarrot,butitcanalsobemadewithfinelyshreddedcabbageorrawpapaya.Itissometimesservedasanaccompanimenttocrisp,savouryandsweetSundaybreakfastsnackssuchas‘ganthiya’,whicharecrispwafersmadewithgramflourandspices,and‘jalebi’,arichsweetmadewithflour,deep-friedandsoakedinstickysugarsyrup.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING10minutes

1teaspoonvegetableoil½teaspoonblackmustardseeds½teaspooncuminseedspinchofasafoetida½teaspoonwhitesesameseeds2largecarrots,peeledandfinelygratedpinchofcaster

sugar2tablespoonsfreshcorianderleaves,finelychoppedsalt

1Heattheoilinasmallsaucepanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseeds.Whentheybegintopop,addthecuminseeds,asafoetidaandsesameseeds.Fryforafewseconds.2Tipinthegratedcarrots,seasonwithsalt,addthesugarandcook,stirring,overamediumheatfor5–6minutes.Removefromtheheat.3Stirinthecorianderandservewarm.

ChawliRajmaKaSalaad

[BEANSALAD]

Iusetinnedbeansforthisrecipetosavetimeandbecauseitiseasier–youcanswaptheonesI’veusedintherecipebelowforanyfirmbeansyoulike.Ifcookingyourownbeans,makesurethattheyaresoakedovernightandcookeduntilverytender.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes

½teaspooncuminseeds½x400gcanofblack-eyedbeans,drainedandrinsed½x400gcanofredkidneybeans,

drainedandrinsed½teaspooncastersugar2springonions,finelydiced3–4frondsoffreshdill,finelychopped1teaspoonlemonjuicesmallsprigoffreshcorianderleaves,finelychoppedsaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

1Heatafryingpanoverahighheat,addthecuminseedsanddry-toastuntiltheybegintodarkenanddevelopanaroma.Removefromtheheatandcrushtoapowderinapestleandmortar.2Mixalltheingredientstogetherinabowl,seasonwithsaltandpepperandserveatonce.

TikhatKeli

[SWEETANDSPICYBANANASALAD]

Thisisagoodwaytouseupripebananasastheyaddalovelyflavourandcreaminesstoaspicymeal.

Serves4PREPARATION→5minutesCOOKING5minutes

½teaspooncuminseeds2teaspoonsvegetableoil¼teaspoonmediumredchillipowder2ripebananas,peeledandthicklysliced1tablespoon

lemonjuice,toservesaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

1Heatafryingpanoverahighheat,addthecuminseedsanddry-toastuntiltheybegintodarkenanddevelopanaroma.Removefromtheheatandcrushtoapowderinapestleandmortar.2Heattheoilinafryingpanoverahighheatandaddthegroundspices.Whentheybegintosizzle,add3tablespoonsofwaterandseasonwithsaltandpepper.3Whenthewaterhasevaporatedandthespiceshavecooked,foldinthebananasandcookthemforacoupleofminutes.Servewarmorcold,drizzledwiththelemonjuice.

FruitChaat

[FRUITSALADWITHTANGYSPICES]

Thisiseatenasasnack,soldasstreetfoodandsometimesaccompaniesamainmeal.Thefruitvariesseasonallyaswellasregionally.Insummer,mangoesareaddedingrowingregionssuchasMaharashtra,GujaratandUttarPradesh.Inthenorth,pearsfromHimachalPradeshandUttarPradeshareused.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes

200gmixed,freshfirmfruit,suchasmango,apple,pear,wholegrapes,banana,papayaormelon,dicedasyouwish¼teaspoonmediumredchillipowderpinchofchaatmasala

1teaspoonlemonjuice

1Putalltheingredientsinabowl,mixtogetherlightlyandserveatonce.

VangyacheBhareet

[ROASTEDAUBERGINEWITHYOGURT]

ThisMaharashtriansidedishhassomevariations,dependingonpersonalpreference,suchasonewheretheonionisstirredinraworanotherwhereatemperingofmustardseedsisaddedontop.Ilikethesweetnessofcookedredonioncombinedwiththetangoftomatointhisrecipe.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,pluschillingtimeCOOKING20minutes

1largeaubergine1tablespoonvegetableoil1mediumredonion,finelychopped1mediumfreshgreenchilli,

finelychopped1tablespoonchoppedfreshcorianderleaves1tomato,finelychopped150gnaturalyogurt

salt

1Placetheaubergineonagashobwithoutbrushingwithoil.Turnfromtimetotime(forroughly7–8minutes)withapairoftongsuntilyoucanpiercethethickestparteasilywithaknife.Bythistimetheskinwilllookcrinklyandcrisp.Leavetocoolthenpeeloffskinwithasmallknifeorwithyourfingers.2Discardthestalkandmashthefleshoftheaubergineinabowlwithafork.Setaside.3Heattheoilinafryingpanoverahighheat,addtheonionandfryfor7–8minutesuntilsoft.Addthechilli,coriander,tomatoandsalttoseason,thenaddthemixturetothemashedaubergine.Mixintheyogurtandchillbeforeserving.

BengaliTomatoRaita

Kalonjiisvariouslyknownasonionseed,blackcuminorblackcarawaybutactually,itisnoneofthese.IntheWestitisknownasnigellaandisasmallblackseedwiththeflavourofonionandpepper.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes

150gfull-fatyogurt2tomatoes,finelydiced1tablespoonmustardorvegetableoil½teaspooncuminseeds½teaspoonnigellaseeds(kalonji)saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

1Combinetheyogurtandtomatoesinabowlandseasonwithsaltandpepper.2Heatthemustardoiltoalmostsmokingpointinasmallfryingpan.Removefromtheheatandleavetocoolslightly,thenaddthecuminandnigellaseeds.Assoonastheystarttosizzleanddevelopanaroma,pourthemintothebowl.Stirandserve.Ifusingvegetableoil,simplyheattheoilinasmallfryingpanandaddtheseeds.Servecold.

MungChaat

[SPROUTEDMUNGBEANSSALAD]

SproutsareverypopularinIndiancookingbecausetheavailabilityofsomanybeansandalargelywarmclimateallowshomecookstousethetechniqueofsproutingfairlyregularly(seeUsingLentils).Also,sproutingmakesbeanseasiertodigestasthecomplexcarbohydratesbreakdownintosimplercarbohydrates.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,plussoakingandsproutingtimeCOOKING10minutes

½teaspooncuminseeds80gmungbeans,sprouted⅓cucumber,finelydiced,skinon1tomato,finelydiced1redonion,finelydicedjuiceof½lemonalargehandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,finelychoppedsaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

1Heatafryingpanoverahighheat,addthecuminseedsanddry-toastuntiltheybegintodarkenanddevelopanaroma.Removefromtheheatandcrushtoapowderinapestleandmortar.2Steamthemungbeansproutsfor5–6minutesuntiljusttender,thensetasidetocool.3Combinethecucumber,tomato,onionandcumininabowl.Seasonwithsaltandpepperanddrizzleinthelemonjuice.4Gentlystirinthesteamedsprouts,addthecorianderandtossthesalad.Serveatonce.

LasnachiChutneyImliKiChutneyThakkaliPachadiBrinjalChutneyInchiPachadiPudineKiChutneyGreenMangoPachadiAamKaChhundaSebKiChutneyKhajurAurDhaniyeKiChutneyNimbuKaMeethaAchaarGajarGobiShalgamKaAchaarKajuChutneyDhaarunJiChutneyKachaAmerAchaarHaldiKaAcharKothimeeraPodiBilahirTok

INDIANSLOVE‘ACHAAR’ORPICKLESANDAVASTNUMBERARECOMMERCIALLYAVAILABLEORMADEATHOMEWITHSEASONALVEGETABLESANDFRUITTOBE

CONSUMEDWITHMAINMEALSORSNACKSTHROUGHOUTTHEYEAR.

EveryIndiankitchenhasanassortmentofchutneys,picklesandrelishesthatareplacedonthetablealongwithameal.ChutneycomesfromtheHindi‘chatna’or‘tolick’.Itisanaccompanimentmadeoffruit,vegetablesorlentilsandspicesthatishighlyflavouredandservedinsmallquantitieswithamealtoaddalittletopnoteofconcentratedflavour–usuallysalty,sour,hot,sweet(oracombination).

Chutneyscanbewetorpowderydryandtheycanbemadewithfreshingredientssuchascorianderleaves,gingerandgreenchilliesorwithstorecupboardingredientssuchasdesiccatedcoconutanddriedredchillies.Chutneysmadewithfreshingredientshavetobeeatenwithinacoupleofdayswhereasdryonesorthosewithalotofsugar(suchasmangochutney)canbestored.

Chutneysservetopersonaliseameal–onememberofthefamilymayenjoyspicierfoodthantherestandwillservethemselvesaportionofhotmangoorchillipickletoincreasethelevelofheat.ItisonlyinIndianrestaurantsthatyouwillfindaplateofpoppadumsbeingservedwithchutneysandrelishesatthestartofameal.

Eachfamilyhasaselectionoftheirfavouritepicklesor‘achaar’,andtheserecipesarepasseddownthegenerations.Eachregionandcommunityalsohastheirownspecialones–theGajarGobiShalgamKaAchaarisoneofnorthIndia’sfavouritepickles,whereasthetendermangopickle‘avakkai’ispreferredinsouthIndiaandisrelishedwithamixtureofplainyogurtwithrice.

Picklesaremadewithseasonalingredients–somearemadetobeeatenwithinafewdayswhereasothersarecookedinsugarorspicesandcanbeeatenoverayear.Manyofthesearesun-driedanditiscommontoseejarsofpicklesmaturingonsunnyterracesduringthesummer.Sun-dryingmaturesthemandincreasestheirshelflife.Inanycase,allpickleshavetobetreatedwithcareiftheyaretolast–neveruseawetspoonandmakesuretosealyourjarsastightlyasyoucantokeepairandmoistureout.

Relishesaremadefromhighlyflavoured,seasonalvegetablesservedtoadda

burstofflavourtoameal.Somerelishesaremadeinparticularseasonstoboostimmunity,suchasafreshIndiangooseberry(amla)one,whichiseateninthewinterbecauseofitsveryhighvitaminCcontent,whichrangesbetween400–600mgper100goffruit.

SOURINGAGENTSDifferentregionsinIndiauseavarietyofsouringagentsindifferentways.Lemonandlimeareusedalloverthecountry.

TAMARIND→ManyIndianpeopleremembereatingtamarindpulpaschildren,withfriends,hiddenawayfromdisapprovingadults,onhot,lazyafternoons.Itssoursweetnessisallthemoretastywithasprinklingofcoarsesalt.Childrenmercilesslystonethetreetogetthefruit.Inthehotsummermonths,ballsoftamarindarelaidouttodryinthesun,especiallyincentralandsouthernIndia.Theyarethenstoredinearthenjarsandbitsarebrokenoffasandwhenrequiredtousethroughouttheyear.Tomaketamarindpulp.

KOKUM→ThekokumfruitisnativetoIndiaandisusedintheregionalcookeryofGujarat,Maharashtraandafewsouthernstates,wherebigglassesofkokumsherbetaredrunkthroughouttheparchedsummermonths.Thefruitisroundandabout2.5cmindiameter.Itisdeeppurplewhenripeandcontains5–8largeseeds.Thefruitsarepickedwhenripethentherindisremoved,soakedrepeatedlyinthejuiceofthepulpandsun-dried.Therindisusedasasouringagent.

Sun-driedkokumpetalsaredarkpurpletoblackandratherstickywithcurlededges.Sometimestheentirefruitishalvedanddried,sothatthedriedseedsarevisibleintheirchambers,likeahalvedorange.Whenaddedtofood,itimpartsabeautifulpinkish-purplecolour.

VINEGAR→InIndia,theinclusionofvinegarincookeryislimitedtoafewcommunities.Ofthese,theParseesandtheGoanshavebeenmostinfluencedbyinternationalcuisinesandusemany‘Western’ingredientslikepasta,marzipanandvinegar.Themostcommonlyusedvinegarsaremaltandwhite.Inthenorth,vinegaror‘sirka’ismadebyfermentingsugarcanejuice.InGoa,itismadefromcoconutsap.Coconutvinegarisslightlycloudyandyeasty.

Atraditionalwayofusingvinegarincurriesistogrindthecurryspiceswithit.

Gourmetsclaimthatthebestflavourisachievedwhenthisisdoneonaroughgrindingstone.Theresultingpasteisusedasamarinadeorfriedinhotoilbeforeaddingmeatorfish.Alternatively,vinegarcanbeaddedtothedishduringcooking.VinegarisalsousedforpicklingvegetablesasinthePunjabiGajarGobiShalgamKaAchaar.InGoa,‘tendli’orbabyivygourdsaswellasaubergines,calledbrinjalslocally,arepickledinvinegar.

MASTERCLASS

HOWTOMAKETAMARINDPULP

Tamarindisasausage-shapedfruitthatgrowsonlargetrees(seehere).Thepodsripeninthesummerandtheshellbecomesbrittle.Thefruitinsideispulpyandisheldtogetherbyafibroushusk.Withinthispulparesquare-ish,darkbrown,shinyseeds.Itisthepulpthatisusedforitssweet,sour,fruityaromaandtaste.Itisavailableasapressed,fibrousslab,orasajam-likebottledconcentrate.Asslabs,youcanbuy‘wet’or‘dry’tamarind.Thewetoneissoftertosquashandeasiertousewhereasthedryoneismoredifficulttobreakdown.

YOUWILLNEED:¼block(about100g)wettamarindwarmwater,tocoverthetamarind–sieve–bowl

1Soaktheblockoftamarindinwarmwaterforabout15minutes.Onceitsoftens,squashitintoapastewithyourfingersandpassitthroughasieve.Thefinepulpandjuicewillgothrough,leavingbehindthefibroushusk.

2Putsomemorewaterinthesieveanddoasecondpressing.Youshouldbeabletoseetheseedsandfibres.Discardthese.Youshouldhave5–6tablespoonsofpulp.Thepulpwillkeepwellinthefridge,inanairtightcontainer,forupto3weeks.

TIPIfallthisseemstootimeconsuming,youcanbuyajaroftamarindpulporpaste.Thisisdifferentfromandmuchbetterthanjarsoftamarindconcentrate,whichIfindtoodarkandgooey.

MASTERCLASS

DHANIYEKICHUTNEY–CorianderandPeanutChutney

GreencorianderchutneyistheubiquitousdippingsauceinIndia.Asitmademostlyofherbs,somethickeningneedstobeadded.InGujaratandMaharashtra,thismaybelocallygrowncoconutorpeanuts,whereasinthenorthitcouldbeaninexpensiveonionormoreexpensivenutssuchasalmonds,whichareaninfluencefromMughalcookery.

Makesabout200gPREPARATION→10minutes

YOUWILLNEED:2goodhandfulsoffreshcoriander,stalksandleaves,washedandroughlychopped

1.25cmpieceoffreshrootginger,scrapedandchopped2freshgreenchillies,roughlychopped2tablespoonsroastedunsaltedpeanutsorfreshlygratedcoconutorboth1tablespooncastersugar

agoodsqueezeoflemonjuicesalt

1Putthecorianderinablenderwiththeginger,chilliesandpeanutsorcoconutorboth.Blitztoafinepastewith3–4tablespoonsofcoldwaterthenaddthesugar.

2Seasonwithsalt,addthelemonjuiceandmixwell.Thefinaltextureshouldbethickandcreamy.Storeinanairtightcontainerinthefridgeforupto3days.

LasnachiChutney

[DRYCOCONUTANDGARLICFIREBALLCHUTNEY]

ThisstorablechutneyfromMaharashtraisawonderfulcombinationofflavour,heatandtexture.Itisusedasanaccompanimenttosnacksordosasorsprinkledintosandwiches,thicklyspreadwithbutterandfilledwithcucumberandtomato.ItisalsoassociatedwithaMumbaistreetfoodcalled‘vadapav’whereanAlooBondaisstuffedintoabreadrollandsprinkledwiththischutney.Asthisisadrychutney,nowaterisaddedwhileblitzingittoapowderandtheamchoorcannotbesubstitutedwitha‘wet’souringagentlikelemonjuice.Ifyoucan’tfindamchoor,youcansqueezeinalittlelemonjuicewhenservingthechutney.Youmayfindthatyouhavetousethepulsemodeonyourmachineasthecoconutcanbecomeclaggywithprolongedblitzing.

Makesabout200gPREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING6minutes

1teaspoonwhitesesameseeds100gdesiccatedcoconut2tablespoonsroastedunsaltedpeanuts4largegarliccloves,chopped2tablespoons

medium-hotredchillipowder(orlessifyouwantamildchutney)1teaspooncastersugar1teaspoonamchoor(driedmangopowder)salt

1Heatasmallfryingpanoverahighheat,addthesesameseedsandcoconutanddry-toastfor5–6minutesuntiltheybegintoturngolden.Removefromtheheat,transfertoablenderorcoffeemillandblitz,alongwiththepeanutsandgarlic,tomakeacoarsepowder.Don’taddanywatertotheblenderasthisisadrychutney.2Tipthechutneyintoabowlandaddthechillipowder,salttoseason,sugarandamchoor.3Storeinaclean,sterilisedglassjarinthefridgeforupto4months.

ImliKiChutney

[SWEETTAMARINDCHUTNEY]

Anotherclassicdippingsauce,whichisanessentialpartofstreetfood,thistamarindchutneyisservedwithfoodssuchasOnionBhajiasorSevPuri,madebytoppingcrisppuriswithmashedpotatoesorchickpeasanddrizzlingwithaspicymintchutneyandthissweetchutney.

Makesabout250gPREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING10minutes

1teaspooncuminseeds4tablespoonsgratedjaggeryorsoftbrownsugar4tablespoonstamarindpulporshop-boughttamarindpastealargepinchofmedium-hotredchillipowdersalt

1Heatafryingpanoverahighheat,addthecuminseedsanddry-toastuntiltheybegintodarkenanddevelopanaroma.Removefromtheheatandcrushtoapowderinapestleandmortar.2Putthejaggeryorsugarandtamarindinapan,bringtotheboil,reducetheheattolowandsimmerfor4–5minutesuntilthemixtureturnsshinyandthejaggeryhascompletelydissolved.Ifthemixturestartstogettoodryandsticky,addacoupleoftablespoonsofwater.3Addthegroundtoastedcuminandchilli,seasonwithsalt,thensimmerforafurthercoupleofminutes.4Removefromtheheat,leavetocoolandserveatroomtemperature.Storeinanairtightcontainerinthefridgeforupto4weeks.

MASTERCLASS

THENGAICHUTNEY–WhiteCoconutChutney

ThiscreamychutneyismaderegularlyinTamilhouseholdsandisservedwithbreakfastfoodssuchasdosas.Desiccatedcoconutdoesnotworkwellhereasitistoodryanddoesnothavethelevelofcreaminessthischutneyneeds.Youcanreduceorincreasethenumberofchilliesasperyourtaste.

Makesabout200gPREPARATION→20minutesCOOKING7–8minutes

YOUWILLNEED:1tablespoonsplitgramlentils(chanadal)alargehandfuloffreshlygratedcoconut2

freshgreenchillies,chopped1tablespooncoconutorvegetableoil1teaspoonblackorbrownmustardseeds½

teaspoonwhiteuraddalalargepinchoffreshcurryleavessalt

1Heatasmallfryingpanoverahighheat,addthechanadalanddry-toastuntilitbeginstodarken.Tipitintoablender,addthecoconut,greenchillies,salttoseasonandafewtablespoonsofwaterandblitztoafinepurée.Pourthepuréeintoaservingbowl.

2Heattheoilinasmallpanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseeds.Assoonastheybegintopop,addtheuraddalandfryforafewsecondsuntilitstartstoturngolden,thenaddthecurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanastheleaveswillsplutter)andstirthismixtureintothechutney.

3Storeinanairtightcontainerinthefridgeforupto3days.

ThakkaliPachadi

[TOMATOANDCOCONUTCHUTNEY]

SouthIndianrestaurantsoftenservetwokindsofchutneysandsambharwiththeirdosas.OneisWhiteCoconutChutneyandtheotheristhisredversion,whichishotterandtangier.

Makesabout200gPREPARATION→20minutes,plus10minutessoakingtimeCOOKING10minutes

2tablespoonscoconutorvegetableoil1tablespoonsplitgramlentils(chanadal)1onion,diced

2driedredchillies,cutopen,deseededandsoakedinwarmwaterfor10minutes2ripetomatoes,chopped

1.25cmpieceoffreshrootginger4tablespoonscoconutmilk1teaspoonblackorbrownmustardseedsapinchoffreshcurryleavesapinchofasafoetidasalt

1Heathalftheoilinafryingpanoverahighheat,addthechanadalandfryuntilitbeginstodarken.Addtheonionandfryoveramediumheatfor7–8minutesuntilverysoft.2Drainthechilliesandaddthemtothepan.Cookforacoupleofminutesthenmixinthetomatoesandginger.Cookfor5–6minutesuntilthetomatoeshavesoftened.3Transferthismixturetoablender,addthecoconutmilkandblitztoafinepurée.4Pourthepuréeintoaservingbowlandseasonwithsalt.5Heattheremainingoilinasmallfryingpanoverahighheat,addthemustardseedsandfryuntiltheybegintopop,thenaddthecurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanastheleaveswillsplutter)andasafoetidaandremovefromtheheat.Stirthisintothechutney.Storeinanairtightcontainerinthefridgeforup

to3days.

BrinjalChutney

[SOURANDHOTAUBERGINECHUTNEY]

Aubergineshaveameatytextureandpreservewell.Topreparetheauberginehere,youcanalsodiceitanddeep-fryitinveryhotoil.Ihaveroasteditasonhereforahealthieroption.ThissouthIndianrecipecanbeenjoyedwithamainmealorbreakfastfoodssuchasidlisanddosas.

Makesabout250gPREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING25minutes

1largeaubergine2tablespoonssunflowerorcoconutoil1tablespoonunsaltedcashewnuts2freshgreenchillies,diced3garliccloves,peeledanddiced2.5cmpieceoffreshrootginger,scrapedanddiced1tablespoontamarindpulporshop-boughttamarindpaste2tomatoes,diced1teaspoonblackorbrownmustardseeds1teaspooncuminseedsalargepinchoffreshcurryleavessalt

1Roasttheaubergineunderagrilloroveragasflameuntilcooked(seehere).Peelandroughlychoptheflesh.2Heathalftheoilinafryingpanoverahighheat,addthecashewnutsandfryfor2–3minutesuntiltheystarttodarken.Addthechillies,garlicandgingerandfryoveramediumheatforacoupleofminutes.3Stirinthetamarindpulpanddicedtomatoesandcookfor4–5minutesuntilsoft,addingapinchofsalttohastenthecookingprocess.4Removefromtheheatandmixinthecooked,peeledandchoppedaubergine.Transfertoablenderandblitztoapurée,thentransfertoabowl.

5Heattheremainingoilinasmallfryingpanoverahighheat,addthemustardseedsandfryuntiltheybegintopop,thentipinthecuminseedsandcurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanastheleaveswillsplutter).6Pourthistemperingoverthechutney,thenseasonwithsalt,stirandserveatroomtemperature.Anyleftoverchutneycanbestoredinanairtightcontainerinthefridgeforacoupleofdays.

InchiPachadi

[FRESHGINGERRAITA]

InKerala,thischutneyisservedwithriceordosasandidlis.

Makesabout175gPREPARATION→15minutes

3tablespoonsfreshlygratedcoconut2.5cmpieceoffreshrootginger,scrapedandchopped1freshgreenchilli

½teaspooncuminseeds100gnaturalyogurt1teaspooncastersugarsalt

1Putthecoconut,ginger,chilliandcuminseedsinablender,alongwithbarelyenoughwatertocoverthemixture,andblitzuntilveryfine.2Pourintoasmallservingbowlandstirintheyogurt.Seasonwithsalt,addthesugarandmixwell.Storeinanairtightcontainerinthefridgeforupto2days.

PudineKiChutney

[MINTANDCORIANDERCHUTNEY]

Servedwithallkindsofkebabsandsnacks,suchassamosasorbhajias,thisalsomakesagreatsandwichspreadwithafillingofthinlyslicedtomatoandcucumber.

Makesabout200gPREPARATION→10minutes

2goodhandfulsoffreshcoriander(leavesandstalks),chopped2garliccloves,chopped1.25cmpieceoffreshrootginger,scrapedandchopped2freshgreenchillies,roughly

choppedahandfuloffreshmintleaves,chopped1smallonionagoodsqueezeoflemonjuicesalt

1Putthecorianderinablender,addthegarlic,ginger,chillies,mintandonionandblitztoafinepaste,addingalittlebitofcoldwatertoturntheblades.2Seasonwithsalt,addthelemonjuiceandmixwell.Storeinanairtightcontainerinthefridgeforupto3days.

GreenMangoPachadi

[MANGOANDCOCONUTCHUTNEY]

SouthIndiaisfamousforchutneysthatareeatenwitheverymealfrombreakfasttodinner.YoucansubstitutethegreenmangowithanequalquantityofacookingapplesuchasBramley.

Makesabout150gPREPARATION→5minutesCOOKING10minutes

2tablespoonsvegetableoil1freshgreenchilli,chopped1driedredchilli,splitandseedsshakenout1teaspoonwhiteuraddal,washed1onion,diced

2cheeksofgreenmango,peeledanddiced2tablespoonsfreshlygratedcoconutor3tablespoonscoconutmilkpinchofcastersugar

½teaspoonblackorbrownmustardseeds½teaspooncuminseedsapinchoffreshcurryleavessalt

1Heathalftheoilinafryingpanoverahighheatandaddthechilliesanduraddal.Cookfor1–2minutesuntilthedalbecomesgoldenthenaddtheonionandstir-fryfor7–8minutesuntilverysoft.2Addthemangoandseasonwithsalt.Whenthemangosoftens,stirinthegratedcoconutorcoconutmilk,transferthemixturetoablenderandblitzuntilsmooth,addingalittlewatertoturnthebladesifusingfreshcoconut.Pourthechutneyintoaservingbowlandstirinthesugar.3Heattheremainingoilinafryingpanoverahighheat.Addthemustardseedsandfryuntiltheybegintopop,thenaddthecuminseedsandcurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanastheleaveswillsplutter).Wheneverythingsizzles,stirthisintothechutney.Storeinanairtightcontainerinthefridgeforupto2days.

AamKaChhunda

[SWEETMANGOCHUTNEY]

DuringthemangoseasoninIndia,rawmangoesaremadeintosweetorsavourypreserves.ThisrecipeisfromRajasthanandiseatenasasnackwithsavourybiscuitscalled‘puris’orwithmainmeals.Traditionally,jarsofmangoandsugarareplacedintheblazingsummersunforthesugartodissolvebutthisstovetopversionisequallydelicious.

Makesabout1.1kgPREPARATION30minutes,plus4hourssteepingtimeCOOKING40minutes

500gpeeledandgratedrawgreenmango500gcastersugar5cloves1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1tablespoonsalt

1Combinealltheingredientsinasaucepan,coverandsetasidefor4hourstosteep.2Placeoveramediumheatandcookfor40minutesuntilthemixturehasthickened,stirringfrequentlytopreventitfromstickingtothebottomofthepan.3Coolcompletely,transfertoasterilisedglassjar(orjars)andstoreinthefridgeforupto2months.

SebKiChutney

[GREENAPPLECHUTNEY]

Myappletreeproducesafabulouscropofcookingappleseveryyear.Ihavemadeseveralversionsofthischutneyovertheyears,somesweetandothersmoresavouryandhot.Thetartnessoftheappleshereislikethatofrawgreenmangoes,whicharefrequentlyusedinIndianpreserves,alongwithotherseasonalsourfruitsuchasapples,gooseberriesandberries.

Makesabout350gPREPARATION→25minutesCOOKING15minutes

½teaspooncuminseeds½teaspoonfennelseeds1tablespoonvegetableoil½teaspooncrushedblackpepper½teaspoonmedium-hotred

chillipowder2cookingapples,peeledandroughlychopped1teaspoongratedfreshrootginger1tablespooncastersugar1tablespoondistilledwhitevinegarsalt

1Heatasmallfryingpanoverahighheat,addthecuminandfennelseedsanddry-toastuntiltheydarken,thentipthemintoapestleandmortarorspicemillandcrushorblendtoafinepowder.2Heattheoilinaheavysaucepanoverahighheatandaddthepepperandchillipowder.Whentheystarttosizzle,addtheapplesandginger.Seasonwithsaltandstirinthesugar.Sprinkleinthepowderedspicesfromthemortarorspicemill.3Cookoveramediumheatfor8–10minutesuntiltheapplesareverysoft,thenmixinthevinegar.Removefromtheheat,leavetocoolandstoreinasterilisedairtightjarinthefridgeforupto2weeks.

KhajurAurDhaniyeKiChutney

[DATEANDCORIANDERCHUTNEY]

InwesternandnorthernIndia,thissweet,spicy,tangychutneyisservedwithfriedsnackssuchasbhajiaandpakoras.Datesbringafruitysweetness,thecorianderaherbyfreshnessandthetamarind,awonderfultang.

Makesabout200gPREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING20minutes

150gstoneddates3tablespoonstamarindpulporshop-boughttamarindpaste½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder½teaspooncuminseeds1.25cmpieceoffreshrootginger,scrapedalargehandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,choppedsalt

1Putthedatesinasaucepanwithjustenoughwatertocoverthem.Bringtotheboilandaddthetamarindpulp,thenreducetheheattomediumandsimmerfor7–8minutestosoftenthedates.2Removefromtheheatandleavetocoolslightlythentransfertoablenderalongwiththechillipowder,cuminseeds,gingerandcoriander,seasonwithsaltandblitzuntilsmooth.3Storeinanairtightcontainerinthefridgeforupto3days.

NimbuKaMeethaAchaar

[SWEETLIMEPICKLE]

Traditionally,Indianlemonswouldbeusedforthisrecipe–thesearethesizeoflimesfoundintheWest,yellow,thin-skinnedandjuicy.YoucoulduseWesternlemonsbutastheyhaveathickerskinandrind,andlessjuicethanlimes,thetextureofthepicklewillbedifferentandyouwillalsoneedthejuiceofacouplemorelemons.Thisquickandeasypicklecanbestoredforuptoamonthinthefridge.

Makesabout500gPREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING40minutes

5limes,plusthejuiceof2limes2teaspoonssalt1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder200gcastersugar2cinnamonsticks

1Putthe5wholelimesintoapanwithenoughwatertocoverthemandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmerfor35minutesuntiltheyareverysoft.Drainandleavetocool.Dryeachlimecompletelywithacleanteatowel.2Inabowl,cutthecookedlimesinto8pieceseach,allowingthejuicetofallbackintothebowl.Addthejuiceofthe2extralimes,thesaltandchillipowderandmixwell.3Startmixinginthesugar,alittleatatime,untilitdissolves.Onceallthesugarismixedin,transferthepickletoaclean,sterilisedglassjar.Addthecinnamon,sealandleaveittostandfor3–4daysatroomtemperatureinacool,darkplace,shakingthejarfromtimetotime.Inadayorso,thesugarwillformasyrup.Theskinsofthelimesmaytastebitteratfirstbutthissubduesasthepicklematures.Storeinanasterilised,airtightjarinthefridgeforuptoamonth.

GajarGobiShalgamKaAchaar

[CARROT,CAULIFLOWERANDTURNIPPICKLE]

Apopularsweet,sourandspicyPunjabipickle,thisismadeinthewintertobestoredandeatenthroughtheyearwithRotisandParathas.

Makesabout1.5kgPREPARATION→30minutesCOOKING40minutes

200ggratedjaggeryorsoftbrownsugar150mldistilledwhitevinegar250gcarrots,peeledandcutintolongthickstrips250gcauliflower,cutintosmallflorets250gturnip,peeledandcutintolongthinstrips200mlmustardoil2tablespoonsginger-garlicpaste2tablespoonsblackorbrownmustardseeds,crushedcoarselyinapestleandmortar2teaspoonsmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongroundturmeric2teaspoonsgarammasala6teaspoonssalt,plusextraforseasoningthecookingwater

1Putthejaggeryorsugarandvinegarinasmallsaucepanandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmerfor7–8minutesuntilthejaggeryorsugarhasdissolved.Continuecookinguntilthemixturethickensslightly.2Bringapanofwatertotheboil,addalittlesaltandblanchthevegetablesfor3–4minutes.3Drainthevegetables,thenspreadthemoutonacleanteatoweltodrycompletely.Thereshouldbenomoistureorthepicklewillspoil.Ifyouwanttobesure,youcanfinishdryingthevegetablesonatrayintheovenat40°C/gasmark¼for30minutes.4Heatthemustardoilinalargefryingpanuntilitisalmostsmoking.Reducetheheattoleaveittocooldownslightlythenaddtheginger-garlicpaste.Fryfora

fewseconds,thenaddthedryvegetables,mustardseeds,chillipowder,turmeric,garammasalaandsalt.5Mixwellandaddthevinegarandjaggerymixture.Stirandsimmerfor6–8minutes.6Removefromtheheatandleavetocoolcompletely,thentransfertoasterilisedglassjarandstoreinthefridgeforupto4months.

MASTERCLASS

PRAWNBALCHAO–SpicyGoanPrawnPickle

Youwillfindjarsofthishot,tangy,slightlysweetpicklebeingsoldinmanyshopsinGoa,anditisdelicious,butittastesevenbetterhomemadebecauseofthebetter-qualityingredientsonecanchoosetouse.

Makesabout600gPREPARATION→40minutesCOOKING45minutes

YOUWILLNEED:250mlvegetableoil(moreorlessdependingonyourstoragejar)400grawprawns,

shelledanddeveinedalargepinchoffreshcurryleaves2.5cmpieceoffreshrootginger,scrapedandshredded4garliccloves,minced3onions,thinlysliced2teaspoonssalt2tablespoonsgratedjaggeryorsoftbrownsugarForthespicepaste20driedredKashmirichillies(shaketheseedsoutifyouwantamilderflavour)2.5cm

pieceoffreshrootginger,scrapedandchopped2garliccloves2teaspoonscuminseeds4tablespoonstamarindpulporshop-boughttamarindpaste200mlcoconutvinegar

orothervinegar

1Putalltheingredientsforthespicepasteinablenderandblitztoaveryfinepurée.

2Heatacoupleoftablespoonsofvegetableoilinalargefryingpanoverahighheat,addtheprawnsandfryfor7–8minutesuntiltheyareopaqueallthewaythrough.Transfertokitchenpapertodrainandleavetocool.

3Addafurther2tablespoonsofoiltothepanandfrythecurryleavesfora

fewseconds(standingbackfromthepanastheleaveswillsplutter),thenreducetheheattomedium,tipinthegingerandgarlicandcookforafewminutestosoften,takingcarenottoburnthegarlic.Addtheonionsandcookfor8–10minutesuntilverysoftandgolden.

4Addthespicepastetothepanandcontinuecookingfor4–5minutesuntiltheoilstartstoseparatearoundtheedges.Seasonwiththesaltandaddthejaggeryorsugar.Stiruntilithasdissolved.

5Choptheprawnsroughlyandaddthesetothepan.Cookfor4–5minutestoblendtheflavours.

6Removefromtheheatandleavetocoolcompletelythenspoonintoaclean,sterilisedglassjar.Topwithoil,makingsurethatthepickleiscompletelysubmergedandthereforesealedfrommoistureandair.Seal,storeinthefridgeandconsumewithin1week.

KajuChutney

[CASHEWNUTCHUTNEY]

CashewnutsgrowinpeninsularIndiaandareusedineverydaycookinginsomeregionssuchasKarnatakaandMaharashtra.ThischutneyismildandcreamyandgoeswellwithfriedfoodssuchasBhajiasandAlooBondaasadip.Youcanbuybrokenorsplitcashewnutsforthisastheyarecheaperthanthewholeones.Youcanalsoaddatablespoonofskinnedroastedpeanutsforadifferentflavour.

Makesabout200gPREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING10minutes

2teaspoonsvegetableoil100gunsaltedcashewnuts1freshgreenchilli,chopped1.25cmpieceoffreshrootginger,scrapedandchoppedalargesqueezeoflemonjuice½teaspoonblackorbrownmustardseedsasmallpinchoffreshcurryleavessalt

1Heathalftheoilinafryingpanoverahighheat,addthecashewnutsandfryfor4–5minutesuntilslightlygoldenbrown.2Drainandputthemintoablenderalongwiththechilli,gingerandenoughwatertobarelycoverthemixture.Blitztoafinepurée.Thechutneyshouldbeofpouringconsistency.Tipitintoaservingbowl,squeezeinthelemonjuiceandseasonwithsalt.3Heattheremainingoilinasmallfryingpanoverahighheatandfrythemustardseeds.Astheybegintopop,addthecurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanastheleaveswillsplutter)thenstirthisintothechutney.4Storeinanairtightcontainerinthefridgeforupto3days.

DhaarunJiChutney

[SINDHIPOMEGRANATECHUTNEY]

TheSindhicommunityhasitsrootsinSind,nowinPakistan.Thecuisineincludesingredientsfromthatregionsuchaspomegranates,lotusstemsandlotusseeds.Blacksalttastessulphuricandissoldas‘kalanamak’inIndiangroceryshops.

Makes200gPREPARATION→15minutes

1teaspooncuminseedsalargehandfuloffreshpomegranateseedsalargehandfuloffreshcorianderleavesalarge

handfuloffreshmintleaves1.25cmpieceoffreshrootginger,scrapedandchopped½teaspooncrushedblack

peppercornsjuiceof½lime¼teaspoonpowderedblacksalt(kalanamak)salt(optional)

1Heatafryingpanoverahighheat,addthecuminseedsanddry-toastuntiltheybegintodarkenanddevelopanaroma.Removefromtheheatandcrushtoapowderinapestleandmortar.2Putthepomegranateseeds,coriander,mintleavesandgingeralongwithalittlewaterintoablenderandblitztoafinepurée.Itshouldbeslightlybutnottoorunny.Pourintoaservingbowl.3Addthegroundtoastedcumin,pepper,limejuiceandblacksaltandmixwell.Tastebeforeaddingmoresaltastheblacksaltmaybeenough.Storeinanairtightcontainerinthefridgeforupto3days.

KachaAmerAchaar

[QUICKBENGALIGREENMANGOPICKLE]

TheuseoftheuniqueBengalifive-spicemixcalled‘panchphoron’withtendermangoesmakesthisafragrant,tangypickle.Panchphoronconsistsofequalpartsofmustard,cumin,fenugreek,fennelandnigellaseeds.Asitis‘cooked’ratherthan‘matured’inthesun,itneedstobeconsumedwithinamonthorso.Suchquickpicklesareoftenmadeinbulkandsmallquantitiesdistributedtofriends.

Makesabout600gPREPARATION→30minutesCOOKING30minutes

2teaspoonspanchphoron200mldistilledwhitevinegar200mlmustardoil5garliccloves,minced500grawgreenmango,washed,completelydriedandcutintobite-sizedpieces,skinon1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongroundcumin2teaspoonssalt

1Heatasmallfryingpanoverahighheat,addthepanchphoronanddry-toastuntilfragrant,thengrindtoafinepowderinaspicemillorpestleandmortar.Mixthiswithacoupleoftablespoonsofthevinegar.2Heattheoilinapanoverahighheatuntilitisalmostsmoking,thenremovefromtheheatandleavetocoolslightly.3Scoop2tablespoonsofthisoilintoafryingpanandaddthemincedgarlic.Leavetheremainingoiltocoolcompletely.Frythegarlicoverahighheatfor2–3minutesuntilgolden,thenaddthemango.Stir-fryfor2–3minutes,thenstirinthechillipowder,turmeric,cumin,saltandthepanchphoronpaste.Pourintheremainingvinegar.

4Cookoverahighheatfor6–7minutesuntilthemixturesizzles,thencoverthepanandcookoveralowheatfor10–15minutesuntilthemangosoftens.5Removefromtheheatandleavetocoolcompletely,thentransferittoasterilised,airtightglassjarandpourinthenowcooledmustardoilsothatthepickleiscompletelysubmerged.Sealthejar,storeinthefridgeandconsumewithin1month.

HaldiKaAchar

[FRESHTURMERICROOTRELISH]

TurmericisoneofthehealthiestspicesusedinIndiancooking.Theactivecompoundcurcuminisconsideredanti-inflammatoryandananti-oxidant,whichmeansthatitcanhelpinhibitcelldamage.ThespicehasbeenpopularinIndianmedicinesuchasAyurvedaforcenturies.ThefreshrootlookslikegingerandcanbefoundinsomeAsianfoodshops.Youmayalsofind‘ambhalad’,aginger-likerootthatsmellsofrawmangoes.Youcanuseamixofbothvarietiesinequalquantitiesinthisrecipe.Wearglovesifyoudon’twantyourhandsstained!

Makesabout100gPREPARATION→10minutes

4teaspoonsfreshturmericroot,scrapedandfinelychoppedoramixofambhalad1teaspoonfinelychoppedfreshrootginger1smallfreshgreenchilli,mincedlemonjuice,tocoverthemixturesalt

1Mixtheturmericroot,gingerandchillitogether,thenpourinthelemonjuiceandseasonwithsalt.Transfertoasterilised,airtightcontainer,sealtightlyandshakewelltoblend.Therelishwillkeepwellforupto1weekinthefridge.

KothimeeraPodi

[SPICYCORIANDERPOWDERCHUTNEY]

SouthIndia,withitstropicalheat,isfondof‘podis’orspicedpowdersthatareeatenwithbreakfastfoodsormixedintoriceatmainmeals.Typicallymadewithlentils,chilliesandspices,thesespicypowdershelptocoolthebodybywayofthecapsaicininthechilliesbuttheyarealsooftenmadeintoacreambymixingthemwithaspoonfulofgheethathelpstocoolthedigestivesystem.ThisrecipefromAndhraPradeshisonlyoneoftheseveralpodismadeinthisstate.

Makesabout100gPREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING15minutes

2largehandfulsoffreshcorianderleaves1tablespoonsplitgramlentils(chanadal)½teaspoonasafoetida3tablespoonsvegetableoil10driedredKashmirichillies,deseeded4tablespoonsdesiccatedcoconut1teaspoonblackorbrownmustardseedssalt

1Washthecorianderleaves,patthemdryandspreadthemoutonacleanteatoweltodry.2Heatasmallfryingpanoverahighheat,addthelentilsanddry-toastthemuntiltheyturngoldenbrown,thentipthemoutintoabowlanddry-toasttheasafoetidaforafewseconds.Tipthisintothelentils.3Chopthecoriander.4Heatatablespoonoftheoilinafryingpanoverahighheat,addthechilliesandfryfor2–3minutesuntiltheydarken.Drainthemandaddthemtothelentils.Addanothertablespoonofoiltothepanandaddthechoppedcoriander.

Cookfor1minute.5Putthechillies,coconut,lentils,corianderandasafoetidaintoaspicemillandblendtoafinepowder.Thiswon’tworkinablenderasthebladeswillnotturnwithoutwater.Tipintoabowlandseasonwithsalt.6Heattheremainingoilinafryingpanoverahighheatandfrythemustardseedsuntiltheybegintopop.Pourthisintothepowderedchutneyandcoolcompletely.7Storeinasterilisedairtightcontainerinthefridgeforuptoamonth.

BilahirTok

[ASSAMESESWEETANDSOURTOMATOCHUTNEY]

ThispopularchutneyisservedwithsoftricecalledkhichdiorfriedPooristoaddaburstoftangy,sweetflavourstothemeal.‘Tok’meanssourinthelocalAssameselanguage,andthetartnessoftomatoesistempereddownbytheadditionofjaggery.PasphuronisthesamemixoffivespicesastheBengalipanchphoron.

Makes200gPREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING20minutes

2tablespoonsmustardoil1teaspoonpasphuron(seePanchPhoron)2bayleaves3driedredchillies3largetomatoes,diced2teaspoonsgratedjaggeryorsoftbrownsugarsalt

1Heattheoiltosmokingpointinafryingpanthenremoveandleavetocoolslightly.Addthepasphuronandassoonasitcrackles,addthebayleavesandredchillies.Cookforafewsecondsoveramediumheatthenaddthetomatoes.2Seasonwithsaltandaddthejaggeryorsugar.Bringtotheboil,thenreducetheheatandsimmerfor10minutesorsountilthetomatoesarecompletelysoftandjammy.Removefromtheheatandleavetocool.3Transfertoanairtightcontainerandstoreinthefridgeforupto3days.

MungDalHalwaShrikhandQubaniKaMeethaChaavalKiKheerShahiTukdeSevianKheerRabdiBesanKeLaddooGajarKaHalwaPuranPoliPhirniGujiyaKelyaMulukSaffronandPistachioIceCreamZardaKadaParshadAamrasMangoSeekaraneMasalaChaiKulfiMangoKulfiKajuBurfieParsiSevMungDalPayasam

INDIA’SVASTRANGEOFSWEET,FRAGRANTFRUITPROVIDESINSPIRATIONFORANENDLESSARRAYOFSWEETS,PUDDINGSANDDESSERTSTHATARECONSUMEDON

FESTIVEDAYSANDHAPPYOCCASIONS,SUCHASBIRTHDAYSOREVENONTHERECEIPTOFEXCELLENTEXAMRESULTS.

Indiacouldverywellbecalledasweet-toothednationgiventhenumberofdesserts,sweetsandconfectionerythatisconsumedeveryday.Honey,sugar,jaggeryorfruitarecookedalongwithvariousflours,seeds,nuts,vegetablesandmilktocreateafantasticvarietyofdelicaciesvariouslycalled‘meetha’(sweetinHindi)or‘mishti’.Theterm‘mithai’isgenerallyusedtodescribethevastrepertoireofdense,setsweetconfections–thosethatcanbecutwithaknife–andtheseincludesuchdelicaciesasburfies,halwas,jalebis,gulabjamuns,rasmalaiandrossogullas.Burfiesareusuallysetinthicksquaresandhavethestickytextureoffudge.Halwasareslightlysofterandcanbescoopedupwithaspoon.Jalebisareextremelysweetconfectionsmadebypipingnestsofaflourandyogurtbatterintohotoil,fryingthem,thenimmersingtheminastickysugarsyrup.Theyarethendrainedandeatenwarmorcold.Gulabjamuns,rasmalaiandrossogullasareallmadebyformingdumplingsofthickenedorsplitmilkwhicharethenpoached(rasmalai,rossogulla)orfried(gulabjamun).Someofthesesweetsaresoakedinsugarsyrup,othersinsweetenedmilk.Theyallhaveasofttexturelikethatofamoistcake.

Manyotherdessertsaresimplycalledsweetdishes–so‘kheer’isamilkypuddingthickenedwithrice,wheatflakes,sagoorfruit.Shrikhand,adense,strainedyogurtdessert,isflavouredwithsaffronandcardamom.

SweetshavebeenmadeandeateninIndiasinceancienttimes.Earlyliteraturetalksabouttheuseofhoneyandevenaftertheproductionofsugar,foresthoneywasstillapreferredsweetener.Sugar,fromtheSanskritword‘sharkara’,wasmadefromsugarcanejuicearound500BCandintroducedtoEuropefromIndiabyAlexandertheGreat’sreturningtroopsaround300BC.TheGreekswereastonishedbyreedsthatproducedhoneywithoutbees,obviouslyreferringtothesugarcanethatgrewinnorthernIndia.AroundthefifthcenturyAD,sugarcrystallisationbeganand,beingeasytotransport,becameoneofIndia’slargestexports.Today,IndiaisaleadingproducerofsugarcaneandthehighestgrowingstatesareUttarPradesh,MaharashtraandTamilNadu.SugarisexportedbyIndiatocountriessuchasSudanandtheUAE.

IndiatocountriessuchasSudanandtheUAE.InanIndianthali,thesweetisservedwiththerestofthecoursesandis

sometimeseatenwithfriedpooris.Thisblurringofcoursesiscommonatweddingfeasts.

JAGGERYApartfromwhitesugar,whichisusedineverydaycookeryaswellasformakingsweets,jaggeryisusedinmanypartsofIndia.

JAGGERY→Sugarcanegrowsinabundanceinthenorth,westandsouthofIndia.Freshlypressedsugarcanejuiceissoldinstreetstalls,oftenwithadashoflimeandgingerjuice.

Duringthemanufactureofsugarfromsugarcanejuice,severalproductsareformed:molasses,alcoholandjaggery.Jaggeryisreducedorcooked-downsugarcanejuicethatformssoftbutsolidblocksandismostlyproducedbysmallcultivatorsinhugecrushersrunbybullocks.Thejaggeryisnotpurifiedandthereforehasallthequalityofthejuiceitself.JaggeryisasimportantassugarinIndiancookery.Ithasaheavy,caramel-likearomaandtastesverysweetandmusky.Itcannotreallybesubstitutedforbysugar,althoughbrownordemerarasugaristheclosestequivalent.Jaggeryisconsideredhealthierthansugarasitcontainsmorecomplexcarbohydratesthatreleaseenergyslowlyratherthaninsimplesugarswhichgetabsorbedintothebloodstreamquickly.Assugarcanejuiceiscookedinlargeironvessels,thejaggeryabsorbssomeofthismineral.Also,jaggeryisarichsourceofphenolicacidsandflavonoids,whichareconsideredanti-inflammatory.IthasheldaspecialplaceinHinduritualasanauspiciousfoodbecauseofitshealthbenefitsandsweettaste.

Jaggeryrangesfrommustardyellowtodeepamberincolour,dependingonthequalityofthesugarcanejuice.Itisstickybutcanbecrumbled,gratedorcuteasily.Itismadeupofbiglumps,whichmelttoformathick,gooeypaste.

Differentvarietiesofjaggeryareavailableandalthoughtheonemadefromsugarcanejuiceismostwidelyavailable,Bengalproducesjaggerythatisespeciallyprized,fromthesapofthelocallygrowndatepalm.Bengalishaveaspecialemotionalresponsetothis‘NolenGur’which,thoughavailablethroughouttheyear,isfreshestforashorttimeinthewinter.Thesapofthepalmiscollectedinearthenpotstobedrunkastoddyortobecookedinhugemetalpotstoformasyrupyjaggerywhich,whensolidifiedtoadensecake,isknownas‘patali’.NolenGurisnotseenmuchoutsideoftheregionwhereitis

knownas‘patali’.NolenGurisnotseenmuchoutsideoftheregionwhereitisproduced.Itisrelishedscoopedupwitharotithenstirredintoyogurt,orcookedwithmilktomakewintersweets.

ThevarietythatismostexportedisKolhapurjaggery.KolhapurisatowninMaharashtra,whichproducesthelargestamountofjaggeryinIndia.Buyasmallamounttotryfirst.Youwillfindthatthejaggeryismouldedinvarioussizesandwrappedinplasticorjutecloth.Tostore,useadrycontainerandkeepinacool,darkplace.Mostjaggerylastsforuptoayear.

MOSTINDIANSWEETSAREFLAVOUREDWITH‘SWEET’SPICESSUCHASCARDAMOMANDSAFFRON.

HONEYHoneyor‘madhu’isconsideredasacredingredientinIndiaandismentionedasahealthfoodinancientHindutextssuchastheVedasfromabout4,000yearsago.Itissaidtobeoneofthefiveelixirsincludingmilk,ghee,yogurtandsugarthatarecombinedtomake‘panchamrita’,afoodthatisconsideredbyAyurvedatobestrengtheningandcleansing.ItisthereforeusedinHinduritualstosymbolisepurityandwellbeing.InHinduliteratureitiscalledthenectarofimmortalityandisvaluedforitshealingproperties.Ayurvedaconsidersitsweetandastringent,withantibacterialpropertiesthatcanhealcutsandwounds.AccordingtotheAshtangaHridayasamhita,atextwrittenbyVagbhata,oneof

AccordingtotheAshtangaHridayasamhita,atextwrittenbyVagbhata,oneofthemostinfluentialwritersofAyurveda,aroundthesixthcentury,‘honeyisgoodfortheeyesandeyesight,itquenchesthirstandhealswounds’.Honeyisalsoreferredtoas‘yogavahi’inAyurveda,whichmeansthatitcanpenetratethedeepesttissuesofthebody.Itisthereforemixedwithmedicinalherbswhoseefficacyitcancarrytothesedeepertissues.Forittobehealing,Ayurvedasuggeststhathoneyshouldnotbeheated,aprecautionnotalwaysfollowedinIndiancookingthathasbeeninfluencedbyforeignculturessuchasinMughalcookery.

WHYAREINDIANDESSERTSSOSWEET?Thereisadistinctdifferencebetweencommerciallymadesweetsandhomemadedesserts.Duetotheintensetropicalheatandtheshortshelflifeofingredientssuchasfruit,vegetablesormilk,plentyofsugarneedstobeaddedtobeabletostoresweetsforlonger.Thisisespeciallytrueofcommercialsweetsthataresoldoverafewdays.Home-cookeddessertsthataretobeconsumedwithinadayortwoofpreparationarethereforelesssweet.

MostIndiansweetsareflavouredwith‘sweet’spicessuchascardamomandsaffron.Theydonotusuallyhavea‘sour’notesuchaslemonora‘bitter’oneasinchocolatethatmanyWesterndessertshave.Theideaistotastethemainingredient–wonderfuldelightssuchasdates,figs,clottedmilk,almondsandpistachiosthatareheldtogetherinasugarsyrupandbutterorghee.Withouttherightquantityofsugar,thesweetwillfallapart.

Whenaretheyeaten?→MostIndiansdonoteatsweetseveryday.Fruitisplentifulandpeoplewhoneedadessertwillchooseasmallbananaoraseasonalmango.However,sweetscomeintotheirownatfestiveandcelebratorytimes.AllreligiousfestivalsinIndiaarelinkedtosweetsandpeoplemakesomeathomeaswellasbuyboxesofassorted‘mithai’togiveasgifts.It’sverymuchlikeintheWestwhereonewouldpossiblymakeapuddingathomebutbuyaboxofassortedchocolates.

Diwali,theHindufestivaloflight,isespeciallyassociatedwith‘mithai’,assweetfoodsareconsideredtreatsinmanyancientcultures.Peoplemakesomesweetsandsnacksathome,weeksinadvance,sothatthereisalwayssomethingspecialtoofferthecountlessvisitorsthatarrive.Burfies,whicharedensefudges,laddoosorroundballsmadeofflourandheldtogetherbyasugarsyrup,halwas

laddoosorroundballsmadeofflourandheldtogetherbyasugarsyrup,halwasorsoftpuddingsandmilkysweetsareallpopularatthistime.

EachHindufestivalisalsolinkedtoaparticularsweetsopeoplelookforwardtoenjoyingitatthattimeofyear.‘Modaks’,riceflourdumplingsfilledwithcoconutandjaggery,aremadefortheGaneshfestivalinhonouroftheelephant-headedgod.Holi,thefestivalofcolour,brings‘puranpoli’orjaggery-andlentil-stuffedpancakes,andthebirthofKrishnaiscelebratedwithmilkysweetsanddessertssuchas‘kheer’.

TheMuslimpopulationmakes‘sheerkurma’andothervermicellipreparationsforEidandtheChristiansbakeplumcakesandcoconutpuddingscalled‘bebinca’forChristmas.Iremember,asachild,eagerlyreceivingsmallbagsofmarzipanandsmall,hand-shapedfanciesofflourandbuttercalled‘kulkuls’fromourChristianfriends.

FLAVOURINGSFORDESSERTSThemainflavouringsaregreencardamomandsaffron,whichyouwillfindinthespiceschapter(seehere).

Roseandscrewpinewater→ThesefloralessencesusedinnorthIndiancookingwereprobablybroughttoIndiabytheMughals.Flowersaresteepedandthearomaticoilsaredistilledandmixedinsmallpartsintowater.Dessertssuchas‘gulabjamun’,ballsofthickenedmilkthataredeepfried,(‘gulab’meansroseinHindi)aresteepedinarosewatersyrup.

Camphor→InsouthIndia,dessertsareflavouredwithediblecamphoror‘karpoora’,aproductfoundinthebarkofthecamphorlaureltree.Onlyaverysmallamountisusedasitsstrong,menthol-likeflavourcanoverpowerthedish.

Ediblesilverandgoldfoil(Varq)→Addedasagarnishoversweetsorrichdishessuchasbiryanis,ediblesilverorgoldfoilcanbeseenshimmeringintheglasscasesofanysweetmeatshop.Tinyballsofgoldorsilverareplacedbetweensheetsoftissuepaperandlaidflatinaleatherpouch.Thisisbeatenrepeatedlybutcarefullywithaheavy,metalhammerflatteningtheballsintosheetsafewmicromillimetresthick.

Varqhasbeencertifiedassafetoeatbyagenciesallovertheworldbutitisnotveryeasilyavailabletoretailbuyers.Whereavailable,itissoldbetweensheetsof

veryeasilyavailabletoretailbuyers.Whereavailable,itissoldbetweensheetsoftissuepaperusuallyinboxes.Eachsheetcontainssuchatinyamountofsilverthatitisnotprohibitivelyexpensiveandhasashelflifeofmanyyears.

Touse,carefullyliftoffasheetofsilverfoilalongwithitslowersheetoftissuepaper.Thenturnitoverontopoftheprepareddishsothatthefoilstickstothefood.Bitswillremainonthepaper,whichcanbepressedonthefoodsimilarly.Itisnearlyimpossibletostickonauniformcoatingofsilverfoil!

MASTERCLASS

SOOJIKAHALWA–SemolinaandSaffronPudding

Thereareseveralregionalnamesforthisdish,suchas‘ravakesari’inthesouthand‘sheera’inMaharashtra,althoughthebasicreciperemainsthesame.Thissaffron-scentedsweetisconsideredfoodforthegodsinHinduismandisoftenmadeonfestivedays.Itissometimesflavouredwithtinybitsofpineappleorbananaandaselectionofnuts.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING20minutes

YOUWILLNEED:150gcoarsesemolina120gcastersugarlargepinchofsaffron5greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded2

teaspoonsraisins150mlmeltedgheeorunsaltedbutter2tablespoonsunsaltedcashewnuts

1Heatafryingpanoveramediumheat,addthesemolinaandtoastitfor8–10minutesuntilitbeginstochangecolour.Keepstirring,topreventitburningonthebottomofthepan.Whenslightlygolden,removefromtheheatandtipintoabowl.

2Meanwhile,combinethesugar,250mlwater,saffron,cardamomseedsandraisinsinasaucepan.Bringtotheboil,thenremovefromtheheatandstirtodissolvethesugar.

3Heatthegheeinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheatandaddthecashewnuts.Whentheystarttoturngolden,tipinthetoastedsemolina.Fryfor5minutes,thenpourinthesugarandspicewater,standingbackasitwillsplutter.Stirrapidlytoavoidlumpsfromforming.

4Reducetheheatandcookforabout5minutes,untilthemixturecomes

awayfromthesidesofthepanasyoustir.Removefromtheheatandcoverthepan.Leavefor5–6minutesthenservewarm.

MungDalHalwa

[NORTHINDIANLENTILANDJAGGERYPUDDING]

ThisrichdesserttakestimeandefforttoprepareandisthereforeservedforspecialoccasionsoratnorthIndianandRajasthaniweddings.Itisthegheethatmakesitcreamyandaromaticsodon’tbetemptedtoreducetheamount.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,plus2hourssoakingtimeCOOKING1hour

100gsplityellowlentils(mungdal),soakedincoldwaterfor2hours150gghee100gcastersugar10almonds,thinlysliced,todecorate10pistachios,thinlysliced,todecorate

1Drainthemungdal,placeinablenderandblitztomakeasmoothpurée,addingalittlewatertohelpturntheblades.2Heatthegheeinanon-stickpanoverahighheatandaddtheblendeddal.Reducetheheattolowandfry,stirringfrequently,for10–12minutes,untilitturnsgoldenbrown.Itwillturnfrombeingapastetolookinggrainy,andthearomawillchangefromrawtocooked.3Meanwhile,heat200mlwaterinasaucepan,addthesugarandboilthemixturefor4–5minutesuntilsugardissolves.4Putthedalmixtureinthesugarsyrupandcookoveralowheatfor40minutes,untiltheliquidhasevaporatedandthehalwaisglossybutfirm.5Transferfromthepantoaheatproofdishandservewarm,decoratedwiththeslicednuts.

Shrikhand

[CONDENSEDYOGURTANDCARDAMOMCREAM]

ThisgorgeousdessertisservedatMaharashtrianorGujaratifeastssuchasweddings,andwhenfamiliesandfriendsgathertocelebrateHindufestivalslikeDiwali.YoucanaddacoupleoftablespoonsoftinnedorfreshIndianmangopurée(wheninseason)tomakeavariationcalled‘aamrakhand’.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,plus8hoursdrainingtime

900gfull-fatyogurtabout6tablespoonscastersugarortotaste6greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscardedlargepinchofsaffron,soakedin1teaspoonwarmmilkfor10minutes2tablespoonspistachionuts,crushed

1Tietheyogurtinacleanpieceofmuslinandhangitupoverthekitchensinkorabucketforabout8hourstodrainoffthewhey.2Whentheyogurtissemi-dry,scoopitoutoftheclothandplaceinabowl.Beatwellwithawoodenspoonorwhisk,addingthecastersugaralittleatatime.3Whentheyogurtislightandfluffyintexture,stirinthecardamom,saffron(alongwiththemilkithasbeensoakingin)andhalfofthecrushednuts.Chillandservesprinkledwiththeremainingpistachionuts.

QubaniKaMeetha

[STEWEDDRIEDAPRICOTSWITHCARDAMOM]

ThisisbelievedtohavebeenthefavouriteoftheerstwhilerulerofHyderabad,theNizamOsmanAliKhan(1886–1967),whowasconsideredthewealthiestmanonEarthduringhistime.Hunzaapricotsaresmaller,denserandsweeterthanWesternonesandtheyhaveahardseedinthecentre.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING35minutes

200gIndianHunzaapricotsororganicdriedapricots80gcastersugar4tablespoonsdoublecream1tablespoonflakedalmonds,togarnish1tablespoonpistachios,crushed,togarnish4greencardamompods,seedscrushedand

husksdiscarded,togarnish

1Puttheapricotsandsugar,alongwithenoughwatertojustcoverthem,inaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheatandcookfor30minutesuntiltenderandpulpy.Iftheydryout,addasplashofwater.Removefromtheheatandstonethefruit(ifusingHunzaapricots),discardingtheseeds.2Puthalftheapricotsinablenderandblitzacoupleoftimesuntiltheyresembleajam.3Spoonsomeofthewholeapricotsandsomeofthejamintofourstemmedservingglasses.Leavetocool.Drizzlewiththecream,sprinklethealmonds,pistachiosandcardamomontopandservechilled.

ChaavalKiKheer

[SPICEDINDIANRICEPUDDING]

Kheerisagenerictermgiventopuddingsthatresemblecreams.Theycanbemadewithwheat,rice,nutsorfruitsuchasmango,jackfruitorbananaandalwayshaveamilkcomponent.RicekheerismadealloverIndia;thisisthenorthernversionwhichisoftenmadeatreligiousfeasts.Iuseanycheapbasmati(includingbrokenrice)forthisrecipeasitgivesabetter,stickiertexturetothepudding.

Serves4PREPARATION→30minutes,plus30minutessoakingtimeCOOKING1hour

150gcheapbasmatirice,soakedinplentyofcoldwaterforatleast30minutes500mlfull-fatmilk

castersugartotaste(atleast4tablespoonsormore)2tablespoonspistachionutsandalmonds,roughlychoppedafewstrandsofsaffron6greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded

1Drainthericeandplaceitinaheavy-basedpanwiththemilkandbringtotheboil,thenleavetosimmerfor1hour,oruntilmushy.Mashthericeroughlywithawhiskwhileit’sstillovertheheat.2Addthesugar,pistachios,almondsandsaffronandsprinkleinthecrushedcardamom.Stirforacoupleofminutesuntilthickandcreamy.3Servechilledorwarm.

ShahiTukde

[RICHBREADPUDDING]

ThisMughlaidessertisreservedforveryspecialeventssuchasEidorDiwaliasitissorich.Traditionally,the‘tukde’(bitsofbread)aredeep-friedinghee,butIhaveusedoilforalighterdish.The‘rabdi’ormilksaucethatispouredoverismadebycookingmilkforabout1houruntilitthickens.Tosavetime,Ihaveusedevaporatedmilkherethatisalreadyquitethick.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING25minutes,pluscoolingtime

vegetableoil,fordeep-frying3thickslicesofwhitebread,eachcutintobite-sizedsquares300mlevaporatedmilk120mlsweetenedcondensedmilk(ortotaste)agenerouspinchofsaffron3greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded2tablespoonscrushedpistachios

1Heatenoughoilinafryingpantobeabletosubmergeasinglelayerofthesquaresofbread,overahighheat,andfrythesquaresofbreadfor3–4minutes,flippingthemoveruntilgoldenallover.Removeanddrainonkitchenpaper.2Mixboththemilks,saffronandcrushedcardamominasaucepanandbringtotheboil.Simmerfor4–5minutesthenremovefromtheheatandleavetocoolfor30minutesorso.3Toserve,arrangethefriedbreadsquaresonaservingplatter.Pourthemilkoverandsprinklethepistachiosontop.Refrigeratefor1hour,sothatsomeofthesauceisabsorbedbythebread,producingatexturethatisvaryinglycrunchyandsoft.

SevianKheer

[FINEVERMICELLIPUDDING]

FinevermicelliisavailableinIndianshopsintoastedoruntoastedforms.Youcanuseeither–roastedvermicelliisbrownerandhasaslightlymoreintenseflavour.Bothneedtobefriedasinthisrecipe.Vermicellitakesjustmomentstocooksomakesureyouhaveallyouringredientsreadybeforeyoubegin.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING20minutes

2tablespoonsvegetableoilorghee2teaspoonsunsaltedcashewnuts2teaspoonsraisins2goodhandfulsofvermicelli,roughlycrushedbyhandintosmallbits400mlfull-fatmilk5tablespoonscastersugar,ortotasteafewstrandsofsaffron5greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded

1Heattheoilorgheeinasaucepanoverahighheat,addthecashewnutsandraisinsandfryfor1minuteuntilgolden.Drainandsetaside,andreturnthepantotheheat.2Addthecrushedvermicellitothepanandfryforacoupleofminutesuntilgolden,stirringandtakingcarenottoover-brownthem.3Addthemilkandbringtotheboil,scrapingdownthesidesofthepanandstirringcontinuously.Addsomewaterifthemixturethickenstoomuch.4Simmerforacoupleofminutesuntilthevermicelliissoft,thenaddthesugar.Stirwellandremovefromtheheat.Stirinthesaffronandthecardamom.5Thispuddingcanbeservedwarmorcold,garnishedwiththefriednutsandraisins.Ifyouarecookingitinadvanceanditthickensup,addafewtablespoonsofmilktoloosenit.Itshouldhaveathickpouringconsistency.

Rabdi

[CLOTTEDSWEETMILK]

ManynorthIndiancitiesandtownshavea‘milkshop’whereyoucanbuymilkandvariousproductssuchasyogurtandpaneermadefromit.Somesellthisdessertaswell,asitcantakealongtimetomakeathome.Boththehomemadeaswellasthecommerciallyavailableonesarerichanddelicious!

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING1hour20minutes

2litresfull-fatmilk3tablespoonscastersugar4greencardamompods,seedsfinelycrushedandhusksdiscardedapinchofsaffron1tablespooncrushedpistachios1teaspoonrosewater

1Putthemilkinaheavy-basedsaucepanandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheattomediumoruntilyouseeasteadybubblingsimmer.Stirfromtimetotime.2Asthemilkformsaskinontop,stirthisbackinandscrapethethickenedmilkfromtheedgesbackintothepan.Stirtomakesurethatthemilkisnotbrowningatthebottomofthepan.3Afterabout30minutesofsimmering,themilkwillhavebeguntoevaporateandclotintocreamy,softbits.Addthesugar,cardamom,saffronandpistachios.Continuecookingforafurther30minutes,oruntilthemixturelooksalmostlikecreamycottagecheese.4Removefromtheheat,stirintherosewaterandleavetocool.Servecold–itwillthickenfurtheroncooling.

MASTERCLASS

RASMALAI–CreamyCottageCheeseinSpicedMilk

‘Ras’meansjuiceorambrosiaand‘malai’iscreaminHindi.Thisdessertisdelicateandfragrant,withdumplingsoffreshcottagecheesesteepedinathick,sweetened,spicednuttymilk.Oncemade,thecheeseisoftenwashedtoremovetracesoflemonbutItendtoleaveitforextraflavour.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,plus3hoursdrainingtimeCOOKING45minutes

YOUWILLNEED:900mlfull-fatmilkafewdropsoflemonjuice1x410gcanofevaporatedmilk120gcastersugar6greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscardedapinchofsaffron2teaspoonsslicedalmondsandpistachios

1Putalargesquareofmuslinoveraclean,tallpanorbucket.

2Putthemilkinapanandbringtotheboil,theaddthelemonjuiceandletthemilkcurdle.Removefromtheheatandscoopoutthecurdledsolidswithaslottedspoon.

Putthemintothemuslinhangingoverthepanorbucket,thentiethemuslinintoabundleandputawoodenspoonthroughtheknot.Hangthisoverthepanorbucket,leavingthewheytodrainoffforabout3hours.

3Meanwhile,inaseparatepan,heattheevaporatedmilkandmostofthesugaroverahighheat(reserving3tablespoonsofsugartomakethesugarsyruplateron).Addthecrushedcardamom,saffronandnuts.Leavetocoolthenrefrigerate.

4Whenthecheesehasdrained,bring500mlofwatertotheboilinalarge,shallowsaucepanandaddthereserved3tablespoonsofsugartoit.

5Removethecheesefromthemuslinandkneaditlightlyforabout1minute.Shapeittightlyintosmallballseachthesizeofacherry.Youshouldgetabout16balls.

6Reducetheheatundertheboilingwaterandgentlysliptheballsin.Cookthemfor10minutes,thenremovefromthepan.Draintheballswellandaddthemtothecold,spicedmilkfromStep2.Servecold.

BesanKeLaddoo

[GRAMFLOURSWEETS]

Afestivesweetthatcanbemadeandstoredforuptotwoweeksinanairtightcontainer,thisisoftenservedatteatimeoreatenasasnack.Whentheflourandgheeiscookeditwillbequiterunny.Itbecomesfirmasitcoolsandeasiertoshape.Youhavetodothiswhileitisstillwarmthoughbecauseifitcoolscompletely,itisverydifficulttoshapeitintoballs.

Makes12–16ballsPREPARATION→5minutesCOOKING30minutes,pluscoolingtime

200ggramflour3tablespoonsfinesemolina70mlmeltedghee100gcastersugar8almonds,sliced6greencardamompods,seedsfinelycrushedandhusksdiscardedafewraisins,todecorate

1Putthegramflourandsemolinainaheavy-basedsaucepananddry-toastoveramediumheatforabout10minutes,stirringcontinuously,untilanaromadevelopsandtheflourturnsslightlygolden.Makesuretokeeptheheatdownandkeepstirringsothatthegramflourtoastsrightthrough.2Pourinthegheeandcontinuefryingoveramediumheatforafurther20minutes,untilthemixturebecomesslightlyrunnyanddevelopsanuttyaroma.3Removefromtheheatandstirinthesugar,almondsandcardamom.Leavetocooluntiljustslightlywarm.4Takeasmallfistfuloftheflourmixtureandpressintoaballor‘laddoo’,thesizeofalargeplum–you’llhaveenoughmixturefor12–16balls.Pressaraisinintoeachonetodecorate.Coolcompletelytosettheladdoos,thenserve.

GajarKaHalwa

[INDIANCARROTPUDDING]

ThisisawinterdessertwhenIndiancarrots,usuallydarkerincolour,areinseason.Youcanuseanyvariety,though–theresultswillbejustasdelicious.ItisbesteatenwarmandisservedwithascoopofvanillaicecreamatIndianweddingsincentralandnorthernIndia,wherethesecarrotsgrow.

Serves4PREPARATION→20minutesCOOKING1hour

100gcastersugar2tablespoonsgheeorbutter300gcarrots,peeledorscraped,andgrated200mlfull-fatmilk4greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded1tablespoonunsaltedcashewnuts,roughlybroken,todecorate

1Placethesugarinaheavy-basedsaucepanwithdoublethevolumeofwaterandbringtotheboil.Stiruntilallthesugarhasdissolved,thenreducetheheatandcookthesyrupforafewminutes,removefromtheheatandsetaside.2Meanwhile,heatthegheeorbutterinaheavy-basedpanoverahighheat,addthecarrotsandfry,stirringoccasionally,for5–6minutes.3Pourinthesugarsyrupandthemilk,reducetheheatandcookfor1hour,untilthecarrotsaremushyandalltheliquidhasevaporated.4Removefromtheheat,mixinthecardamomandservewarm,decoratedwiththenuts.

PuranPoli

[SWEETLENTIL-ANDJAGGERY-STUFFEDFLATBREAD]

ThisdeliciousdessertfromMaharashtraandGujaratisalmostalwaysmadefortheHinduspringtimefestivalofHoli.Itisslightlytedioustopreparebuttheresultsareveryworthit!Eatitwarmdunkedinmeltedghee,butteroracupofwarmmilk.

Makes8PREPARATION→20minutes,plus1hoursoakingtimeCOOKING2hours

Forthestuffing200gsplitgramlentils(chanadal),soakedinwarmwaterfor1hourthenwashedand

drained200gjaggery,grated8greencardamompods,seedsfinelycrushedandhusksdiscarded1teaspoonground

nutmegFortheflatbread(makes8)250gstonegroundwholewheatflour(atta),plusextrafordusting150gplainflour2tablespoonsmeltedgheeapinchofsaltapinchofgroundturmeric200–220mlwarmwater,asneededvegetableoil,tocooktheflatbread

1Putthedalinapanwithdoublethevolumeofwaterandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmerfor1hour,untilyoucaneasilysquashalentilbetweenyourfingers.2Meanwhile,combineboththefloursinalargebowlandmakeawellinthecentre.Addtheghee,saltandturmericandbegintomixwithyourfingers.Startpouringinthewarmwater,alittleatatime,untilyouhaveasoftbutfirmdough.Kneadthedoughuntilsmooththenplacebackinthebowlandleavetorest,coveredwithaclean,dampteatowel,whileyoumakethestuffing.3Drainthecookedchanadalandputitinaheavy-basedpanwiththejaggery.Cookoveramediumheatfor10–15minutesuntilthejaggeryhasmelted.Tipinthegroundcardamomandnutmeg.Stircontinuouslyfor8–10minutesuntilthe

mixturethickens,thenmashwithapotatomasheruntilyouhaveasmoothpaste(thispasteiscalled‘puran’).4Removethedoughfromthebowlandkneaditonaflouredsurface,thendivideitinto8equal-sizedballs.5Dustadoughballwithflourandrollitintoadiscor‘poli’about10cmindiameter.Placeasmallballofstuffinginthecentreandgathertheedgesofthedougharoundittosealthestuffinginandmakeaparcel.6Dusttheparcelwithflourandgentlyrollitoutintoapoliabout15cmindiameter.7Heatafryingpanoverahighheatanddotwithoil.Placethepoliinthehotpanandassoonasbubblesappearonthesurface,flipitover.Cookfor1–2minutesoneachsideuntiltheyareopaqueandbrownspotsappear.Liftontoaplateandkeepwarminfoiloracleanteatowel,whileyouroll,stuffandcooktheremainingpolis.

Phirni

[SETRICEPUDDING]

Phirniandkheerarebothricepuddings,thoughthefirstismadewithgroundriceandthelatterwithricegrains.IhaveeatenthisinnorthIndia,whereitistraditionallysetinsmallearthenwarecupscalled‘kulhad’or‘shikora’.Thesearebiodegradable,neverre-usedandimpartanearthysmelltothefoodtheycontain.TheyarealsousedtoserveteaatIndianrailwaystations.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,plus1hoursoakingtimeCOOKING15minutes,plus1hoursettingtime

50gcheapbasmatirice,soakedinwaterfor1hourthendrained250mlfull-fatmilkapinchofsaffron2tablespoonscastersugar(ortotaste)8almonds,finelyslicedor2teaspoonsflakedalmonds,plusextraforgarnishingafewdropsofroseessenceor2teaspoonsrosewater

1Drythericeonacleanteatowelthenblitzitinacoffeegrinderorspicemilltomakeacoarsepowder.2Heatthemilkinasaucepanwiththesaffronandsugaroverahighheat.Whenitcomestotheboil,reducetheheattomediumandtipinthegroundrice,stirringconstantly.Addthealmonds.3Continuecooking,stirringconstantly,for10minutesuntilthemilkbeginstothicken.Bearinmindthatthepuddingwillsetwhenitiscompletelycold.4Removefromtheheatandstirintheroseessenceorrosewater.Pourintoindividualheatproofservingbowlsandchilltoset.Servecold,decoratedwithafewslicedalmonds.

Gujiya

[KHOYA-FILLEDPASTRIES]

ThisisanorthIndianrecipe,howevermanyregionalversionsexist.InGoa,thesepastriesarecalled‘neoreo’andarestuffedwithlocallygrowncoconutandsugar,whereasinMaharashtra,the‘karanji’hascoconutsweetenedwithlocallyproducedjaggery.InBihar,theyarecalled‘padaukiya’andaresometimesstuffedwithsweet,roastedsemolina.TheGujarativersionis‘ghugra’andhascoconutwithnutsandpoppyseeds.Theyalllooklikemoon-shapedsamosas.

Makes8PREPARATION→20minutesCOOKING1hour

250gplainflour,plusextrafordusting3tablespoonsmeltedgheeapinchofsalt2tablespoonschoppedalmondsandpistachios200gKhoya80gcastersugar3greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscardedvegetableoil,fordeep-frying

1Mixtheflour,gheeandsaltinalargebowl.Add125–150mlcoldwater,alittleatatime,untilyouhaveafirmdough.Kneadfor5–6minutestosoften,thenputitbackinthebowlandsetasidecoveredwithaclean,dampteatowel.2Tomakethefilling,heatatablespoonoftheoilinafryingpanoverahighheat,addthenutsandfryfor2–3minutesuntiltheysizzle.Stirinthekhoya,sugarandcardamomandcookfor8–10minutesuntilthemixtureleavesthesidesofthepanandformsaball.Removefromtheheat.3Dividethedoughinto8smallequal-sizedballsandrolleachoneoutonaflouredworksurfaceintoathindiscroughly10cmindiameter.Shakeoffanyexcessflour.4Putaspoonfulofthefillingdownthemiddleofonehalfofeachcircle,leavingtheedgesbare.Wettheedgesandpressdownfirmlytoformahalf-moonshape.

Trimedgeswithaserratedcutterorknife,makingsurethattheedgesaresealed.5Heatenoughoilinadeepfryingpantofrythepastriesinasinglelayer.Whennearlysmokinghot,reducetheheatanddeep-frythepastriesinbatchesfor3–4minutesuntilgolden,thendrainandsetaside.Servecoldorwarm.

KelyaMuluk

[BANANAFRITTERS]

ThissweetfromtheKonkanicommunity,asectofHinduBrahminsfromKarnataka,makesgooduseofoverripebananasthatnoonewantstoeat.Therecipeisquitesimilartothe‘unniappam’ofKeralabuthasaddedsemolinaandcanbemadewithoutthetraditional‘appamchatty’,adishwithdepressionstoholdthebatterandstopitfromspreadingwhenthefrittersarefrying.

Makesabout20frittersPREPARATION→15minutes,plus30minutesrestingtimeCOOKING20minutes

2veryripebananas,peeledandthicklysliced3tablespoonsgratedjaggeryorsoftbrownsugar2tablespoonsfreshlygratedcoconutordesiccatedcoconutsoakedinwaterfor15minutes

thendrainedapinchofsalt5greencardamompods,seedsfinelycrushedandhusksdiscarded150griceflour,sifted125gfinesemolinavegetableoil,fordeep-frying

1Mashthebananasinabowlandaddthejaggery,coconutandsalt.Mixwell,stirringuntilthejaggerymeltsandthemixturebecomesrunny.Tipinthecardamom.2Mixthericeflourandsemolinatogetherinasmallbowl.Addthis,alittleatatime,tothebananamixandbreakupanylumpsasyougo.Youshouldhaveasmooth,thickbatter,almosttheconsistencyofasoftdough.Coverandleavetorestatroomtemperaturefor30minutes.3Breakoffbitsofthemixtureandformintoabout20balls,eachthesizeofalargecherryorsmalllime.Placethemonatray.

4Heattheoilinadeepfryingpanoverahighheat,thentestit’shotenoughbyputtinginabitofthedough–itshouldrisetothetopinafewseconds.Carefullyaddthedoughballstothehotoilinbatches.Reducetheheattomediumandfryfor3–4minutes,untilgoldenbrownandthecentreofeachfritteriscooked.5Removewithaslottedspoonanddrainonkitchenpaper.Frytheremainingballsofbattersimilarly.Servewarm.

SaffronandPistachioIceCream

Icecreaminallforms–asplainvanillaortherich,spicedkulfi–arepopularinIndia.Mygrandfatherhadanice-creammachineathomeandhemadequiteanoccasionofit,hand-churningvariousflavoursforthefamilyonhotsummerdays.

Serves4PREPARATION→30minutes,plusovernightfreezingtime

1x397gcanofcondensedmilk600mldoublecream8greencardamompods,seedsfinelycrushedandhusksdiscardedapinchofsaffronstrands,

soakedin1tablespoonhotmilk3tablespoonscrushedpistachios

1Putthecondensedmilk,cream,cardamomandsaffronmilkalongwiththestrandsintoalargebowl.Whiskforabout10minutesuntilyougetathickdroppingconsistency.2Pourthemixtureintoaliddedplastictubandfreezefor1hour30minutes.3Removethetubfromthefreezer,decantbackintothebowlandfoldinthecrushedpistachios.Putbackintothetubandfreezeovernight.

Zarda

[SWEETRICEWITHNUTS]

Theword‘zard’meansyellowinPersian,suggestingthatthisdishwaspopularisedinnorthIndiabytheMughals,whoruledtherefrom1526to1858.NorthIndiancultureisinfluencedbytheMughalsintermsoflanguage,architecture,foodanddress.Urdu,alanguagewithPersianroots,wasspokenbyelitemembersoftheMughalEmpireandithasbecomeapartofthenativeHindispokeninnorthIndia.TheAin-i-Akbari,EmperorAkbar’schronicles,explaintherecipefor‘zardbirinj’madewithrice,sugarcandy,nuts,spicessuchassaffronandcinnamonalongwithfreshginger.

Serves4PREPARATION→20minutesCOOKING40minutes

200gbasmatirice,washedanddrained2largepinchesofsaffron80ggheeorunsaltedbutter1tablespoonpistachios,chopped1tablespoonalmonds,chopped2tablespoonsfreshordriedcoconutshavings150gcastersugar5greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded

1Putthericeinaheavy-basedsaucepanwithdoublethevolumeofwaterandthesaffron.Bringtotheboil,thenreducetheheattolow,coverandsimmerfor10minutes.Removefromtheheatandleavecoveredfor5minutes.2Heatthegheeorbutterinafryingpanoverahighheat,addthenutsandcoconutandfryfor3–4minutes.Whentheybegintodarken,foldinthecookedrice.3Tipinthesugarandcardamomandmixgently.Covertightlyandcookfor5minutesoveralowheat.4Removefromtheheat,removethelidandservewarm.

KadaParshad

[WHOLEWHEATPUDDING]

EverySikhgurudwara(temple)servesthissweettodevotees.Prayersarechantedasitisbeingprepared,whichpeoplesaymakesittasteevenmoredelicious!Itissimpletomakeandthesoft,creamytexturemeltsinthemouth.

Serves4PREPARATION→5minutesCOOKING15minutes

100gghee100gstonegroundwholewheatflour(atta)100gcastersugar

1Heatthegheeinaheavy-basedfryingpanoveramediumheatthenaddtheflour.Stirconstantlyforabout10minutesuntiltheflourturnsgoldenbrown.2Meanwhile,combinethesugarand250mlwaterinasaucepanandbringtotheboil.Removefromtheheatandstirtodissolvethesugar.3Whentheflouriswellbrownedandaromatic,reducetheheattolowandpourinhalfthesugarwater.Stircontinuouslytobreakupanylumpsandtocooktheflourevenly.Pourintheremainingwater.4Inafewminutes,thewaterwillevaporateandthepuddingwillcomeawayfromthesidesofthepan.Removefromtheheatandservewarm.

Aamras

[MANGOSMOOTHIE]

ThemonthofMay,mangoseasoninIndia,isalsoanauspiciousmonthforHinduweddingswhenaamrasisservedwithpoorisatMaharashtrianandGujaratifeasts.Itisimportanttousesweet,non-fibrousIndianmangoessuchasAlfonsoorKesarforthebestflavourandconsistency.

Serves4PREPARATION→20minutes

4ripemangoes,peeled,stoned,slicedandchopped2–3teaspoonscastersugar,ifrequired4greencardamompods,seedsfinelycrushedandhusksdiscarded

1Blitzthechoppedmangoestoasmoothpuréeinablender,addingthetiniestamountofwatertohelpturntheblades.Youwanttomakeathickpuréeratherthanamangodrink.2Tastethepuréeandaddsugarifnecessary.Stirinthecardamomandservechilled.

MangoSeekarane

[MANGOESINCOCONUTMILK]

ThiseasyrecipefromKarnatakawasachildhoodfavouriteofminebecauseitwassoseasonal.Madewithinminutes,itisproofthatthefragranceandsweetnessofIndianmangoesneedsminimumfussandbothertoshine.Thisisalsoknownas‘rasayana’or‘hashaley’.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,pluschillingtime

1x400mlcanofcoconutmilk4greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded2tablespoonsgratedjaggeryorsoftdarkbrownsugar2ripeIndianmangoes(AlphonsoorKesar),peeledanddiced

1Combinethecoconutmilkandcrushedcardamom.Stirinthejaggeryorsugaruntildissolved.2Spoonafewtablespoonsofthecoconutmilkintoabowlandroughlymash3–4cubesofmangointoit.Pouritbackintotheremainingcoconutmilk,stirintheremainingcubedmangoandchillforanhourorso.Servechilled.

MasalaChaiKulfi

[SPICEDTEAICECREAM]

Kulfiisdenserthanpopularicecreamasitisnotaeratedorwhipped.Itistraditionallymadebyboilingfull-fatmilkuntilithasreducedbytwothirdsbutthisisaneasy,time-savingversion.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,plus2–3hoursfreezingtimeCOOKING10minutes

1x410gcanofevaporatedmilk½x397gcanofcondensedmilk2.5cmpieceoffreshrootginger,gratedtoextractjuiceandthefibrouspartdiscarded3teabagsor2teaspoonsstrongtealeaves(IuseEnglishBreakfasttea)

1Combinealltheingredientsinaheavy-basedsaucepanoveramediumheat.Cookuntilthemilkisalmostboiling,thenremovefromtheheatandpassthroughasieveintoaheatproofjug.Pourintosmallmouldsoraplastictub.Iusesmallsiliconemoulds4cmindiameterastheycanbeeasilyturnedinsideouttounmoldthekulfi.Traditionalkulfimouldsareconical.2Freezefor2–3hoursuntilset.

MangoKulfi

IonlymakethisduringtheIndianmangoseasoninMaybecauseitworksbestwiththefragrantAlphonsoorKesarvarieties.Youcanuseotherseasonalfruitsuchasstrawberries,raspberriesorblueberries.

Serves4PREPARATION→5minutes,plus2hoursfreezingtimeCOOKING10minutes

1x410gcanofevaporatedmilk100gcastersugar100gIndianmangopulp(seeAamras)

1Heattheevaporatedmilkandsugarinasaucepanoverahighheatfor10minutes,untilthesugardissolves.2Removefromtheheatandleavetocool,thenstirinthemangopulp.Putintoan800mlplastictubandfreezeforacoupleofhours.

MASTERCLASS

GULABJAMUN–MilkDumplingsinRose-flavouredSyrup

GulabisroseinHindiandjamunareIndianberries.Thesedumplingsarefriedtoresemblejamunandsoakedinrosesyrup.Therearemanyrecipesforthis:somemore‘instant’recipesusemilkpowder,butIhavemadetheseusingkhoya(milkthatiscookeddowntoitssolidform,seehere),asIthinkittastesbetter.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING30minutes,plus1hoursoakingtime

YOUWILLNEED:250gKhoya2tablespoonsplainflour½teaspoonbicarbonateofsodavegetableoil,fordeep-fryingForthesyrup200gcastersugar2teaspoonsrosewateror1teaspoonroseextract1tablespooncrushedpistachios

1Kneadthekhoyalightlyuntilitissmoothandstartstobecomeoilywiththeheatofyourhands.Addtheflourandbicarbonateofsodaandkneadagaintomakeasoftdough.

2Shapethedoughinto16cherry-sizedballsthataresmoothandhavenocracks(orelsetheywillabsorbtoomuchoil).Coverwithacleanteatowel.

3Combinethesugarand200mlwaterinaheavy-basedsaucepanandcookoverahighheatfor5–6minutesuntilalmostboiling,stirringtodissolvethesugar.

4Reducetheheatandcontinuecookingfor10–15minutesuntilitformsasinglestringconsistency.Testthisbyputtingadroponacoldplate,waitingforittocoolandthendippingyourindexfingerintoit.Thesyrupshouldformasinglestringwhenyourthumbandfingerpullapartslowly.Alternatively,ifyouhaveasugarthermometer,placeitinthesyrup:thethermometershouldread108–118ºC.

5Removethesyrupfromtheheat.Stirintherosewater(orextract)andpistachios.

6Heatenoughoiltofrythedoughballsinafryingpanoverahighheatandtestitbyputtinginabitofthedough.Itshouldrisetothetopinafewseconds.Reducetheheattomediumandcarefullylowerthedoughballsintotheoilinbatches.Fryfor5–6minutesuntilevenlygoldenbrownallover.

7Removethemwithaslottedspoonandtransferthemdirectlyintothewarmsugarsyrup.

8Leavethejamunstosoakupthesyrupforatleast1hour.Servewarm–theyshouldbewarmfromthesyrup.Ifmakinginadvance,theycanbegentlyheatedfor7–8minutesinthesyrup.

KajuBurfie

[CASHEWANDMILKFUDGE]

Burfies,whicharelikeadensefudge,aremadefromawiderangeofingredientsfromchocolatetofigs.Theycanbepickedupwithone’sfingersandthetexturevariesfrombeingsoftandmoisttoquitedenseanddry.Astheyarequitesweet,theykeepwellfor3–4daysatroomtemperatureandforuptoaweekinthefridge.Theyareoftendecoratedwithediblesilverorgoldfoilcalled‘varq’,whichcanbeboughtfromsomeIndianshops.

Makes12squaresPREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING30minutes,plus2–3hourssettingtime

1x400gcanofcondensedmilk30gunsaltedbutter,plus1teaspoonforgreasingthedish4tablespoonsunsaltedcashewnuts,finelycrushed4greencardamompods,seedsfinelycrushedandhusksdiscardedediblesilverfoil,todecorate(optional)

1Putthecondensedmilkinaheavy-basedsaucepanoveralowheatandcookfor10–15minutes,stirringconstantly,untilthemixturethickensandcomesawayfromthesidesofthepan.Stirinthebutter,cashewnutsandcardamom,thenremovefromtheheat.Youshouldbeabletomovethemixtureeasilywiththebackofawoodenspoon.2Greaseaflatdishwiththeextrabutter.Pourtheburfiemixtureinandsmooththesurfacewithaspatula.3Leavetocoolandsetfor2–3hours,thencutintoabouttwelve2.5cmsquaresordiamondsanddecoratewithmorecrushednutsandediblesilverfoil(ifusing).

ParsiSev

[SWEETVERMICELLIPUDDING]

IhaveeatenthisfragrantdessertatmyParsifriends’homesonfestivedays,suchasJamshedNavrozorParsiNewYear’sDay,withsugar-sweetenedyogurtor‘mithoodahi’.IwastoldthatthesymbolicsignificanceofthedishwasattheheartofParsilife.Thefinenessofthevermicelliindicatedthehardworkthathadgoneintomakingit.Thesugarencouragedpeopletobesweetnaturedandtheyogurtservedwithitremindedusoftheanimalkingdomthatneedstobecherished.TheParsisandMaharashtriansusecharolinutstogarnishtheirdesserts.Thisisasmallalmond-flavoured,flatnutthesizeofalentil.

Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING20minutes

80gcastersugar2tablespoonsghee2tablespoonsraisins2tablespoonsflakedalmonds1tablespooncharolinutsorflakedalmonds100gfinevermicelli,crushedbyhandintoshort

lengths½teaspoongroundnutmeg½teaspoonvanillaorroseextractyogurtsweetenedwithsugar,toserve(optional)

1Combinethesugarand80mlwaterinasaucepanoverahighheatandbringtotheboil.Removefromtheheat,stirtodissolvethesugarandsetaside.2Heatthegheeinafryingpanoverahighheat,addtheraisins,almondsandthecharolinutsandfryfor1minuteuntilgolden.Removewithaslottedspoonandsetaside.3Inthesameghee,frythevermicellifor3–4minutesuntilgolden,withoutallowingittoturntoobrown.4Pourinthesugarwater,alittleatatime,untilthevermicellisoftenscompletelybutdoesnotturntoamush.Removefromtheheatandsprinkleinthenutmegandvanillaorroseextract.Stirgentlywithafork,separatingthestrandsof

vermicelli.5Servewarm,garnishedwiththefriedraisins,almondsandcharolinutsandaspoonfulofyogurtsweetenedwithsugarontheside,ifdesired.

MungDalPayasam

[SOUTHINDIANLENTILANDMILKPUDDING]

ThisisatraditionalpuddingfromsouthIndia,whichuseslentilsincountlesswaystomakedals,toaddtexturetovegetabledishesandevenindesserts.Inahotclimate,lentilsprovideproteininamealthatwouldbecometooheavyifithadmeatorpoultry.Also,therearealargenumberofvegetariansinsouthIndiaandlentilsformanessentialpartoftheirdiet.Lentil-baseddessertsareusuallymilkyandfragrantwithcardamom.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING45minutes

3tablespoonsbrokenbasmatiriceoranystickyrice4tablespoonssplityellowlentils(mungdal),washedanddrained4tablespoonsunsaltedcashewnuts5–6greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded200mlcoconutmilk2tablespoonsgratedjaggeryorsoftdarkbrownsugar

1Soakthericeinwaterwhileyoupreparetheremainingingredients.2Heataheavysaucepanoverahighheat,addthelentilsanddry-toastfor3–4minutesuntiltheystarttodarken.3Pourin150mlwaterandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmerfor25minutesuntilthelentilsaresoft,thenaddthecashewnutstothepan.4Meanwhile,drainthericeandblitzitinablenderwithafewtablespoonsofwateruntilyouhaveagrittypaste.5Addthisricepastetothecookedlentilsthenaddthecardamomandcoconutmilk.Addthejaggeryorsugar.Bringtotheboilthencookoveramediumheatfor12–15minutes.6Thefinaldishshouldbecreamyandofpouringconsistency,soyoumayneedtoaddabitofwaterifitistoothick.Servewarm.

NamkeenLassiAamKiLassiKashayaMasalaChaiAamKaPannaShikanjviNarialKaSharbatHaldiKiChaiRasam

LIGHTLYSPICEDFRUITORVEGETABLEJUICESAREAVAILABLEASSTREETFOODORSERVEDASWELCOMEDRINKSINMANYINDIANHOMES,ESPECIALLYDURINGTHE

BLAZINGHOTSUMMERMONTHS.

PeopleatmyclassesoftenaskmewhatIndiansdrinkwiththeirmeal.Theanswerissimple–water.InanIndianhome,wateristhepreferredbeverageasitinterferesneitherwiththetasteofthefoodnoritsdigestion,whendrunkinmoderation.Ayurvedicnutritionadvisesusnottodrinktoomuchwaterthroughamealasitdilutesdigestivejuicesanddelayseffectivedigestion.

Thetropical,seasonalheatovermostofIndiameansthatdrinksofvariouskindsarepopularbuttheseareoftendrunkthroughthedayratherthanwithameal.Fruitjuicessuchasorange,lime,sugarcaneorpineapplearesoldat‘juicecentres’andincoastaltowns;freshcoconutwateristhepreferredthirstquencher.Ifyougotosomeone’shome,youmaybeoffereda‘sharbat’–asweetdrinkwithsugar,essenceandcolourthatisdilutedwithwater.Popularflavoursarerose,‘khus’orvetiverandsandalwood.Freshlemonade,sweetened,spicedandicedispopular.

Teaandcoffeearedrunkalloverthecountry.IndianteaisstewedratherthanbrewedandisthickerandstrongerthantheteaservedinEurope.Coffeecomesfromthesouthwhereitisservedfilteredandstrong,insmallsteelcups.

DrinksarealsoapartoftheIndianhealingsystem.Igrewupdrinkingmanykindsof‘coolers’inthescorchingsummers,orspiced,herbalteaswhenIfeltpoorly.Mygrandmotheralwaysmademeawarmteawithflaxseedstocounteractthediscomfortofanallergiccold.Thismayhaveworkedbecauseofthehighseleniumcontentintheseedswhichissaidtoreducesymptoms.IlovedtheturmericmilkthatIwasgivenasachildeverytimeIhadasorethroat.Turmericisbelievedtobeanti-inflammatoryandantiseptic.Thehealingantioxidantcurcuminwhichispresentisconsideredtobecomemoreavailablewhencombinedwithgoodfatssuchasthoseinmilkandghee.

AlcoholisnotapartofdailylifeinIndia.Inthecitiesandtowns,peoplemaythrowcocktailpartieswherewhisky,vodka,rumandbeerarealsoservedbutthesedonotoftenaccompanythemealthatfollows.Beerisseenasadaytimedrink,tobehadwithSundaylunch.WineisgrowinginpopularityandIndia

producessomeverygoodwines,butthesearestillmainlyonlydrunkinlargecitiesandatrestaurants.Womenoftendonotdrinksoit’snotuncommonforthemtobeoffereda‘softdrink’ratherthanaglassofwineorwhisky.Youngpeopleinlargecitiesdrinkalcoholinbarsandrestaurantsbutinmanyfamilies,thisisconsideredtaboo.Intraditionalfamilies,drinkingwithyoureldersisconsideredamarkofdisrespect.

Religiousrulesalsodictatewhethersomeonewilldrinkalcoholornot.Asageneralrule,theMuslimsdonotandneitherdotheJains,BuddhistsorinitiatedSikhs.StrictHindusalsorefrainfromalcoholforthesakeofpleasure,althoughAyurvedaprescribeswinesasmedicineintheformoffermentedjuicescalled‘asavas’and‘arishtas’.

Regionalalcoholicdrinksaremadeusinglocalingredients.‘Feni’ismadeinGoafromcoconut,ricebeercalled‘Chaang’or‘Kosna’isdrunkinnorth-easternstates,andmahuaflowersaremadeintoaliquorinthetribalregionsofChhattisgarhstate.Toddy,madefrompalmtrees,ispopularinKeralawhichhaswell-known‘toddyshops’.

NamkeenLassi

[SALTEDLASSI]

PopularduringnorthIndiansummers,thisdrinkisservedinlargejugsthroughouttheday.Iusefull-fatorGreekyogurtforthis,tomakeitthickandcreamy,butyoucanuselow-fatyogurtifyouwish.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes

1teaspooncuminseeds300mlcoldwater300gnaturalfull-fatorGreekyogurtafewturnsofapeppermillsalt

1Heatafryingpanoverahighheat,addthecuminseedsanddry-toastuntiltheybegintodarkenanddevelopanaroma.Removefromtheheatandcrushtoapowderinapestleandmortar.2Combinealltheingredients,seasonwithsalt,whiskwellandservechilled.

AamKiLassi

[MANGOLASSI]

ThisisaseasonaldrinkbecauseyouneedtheacertaintypeofIndianmangoessuchasAlphonsoorKesartoachievetherightflavour.Thesearesweet,smoothandveryfragrant.Outofseason,youcanusesweetenedpuréefromacan.

Serves5PREPARATION→15minutes

2ripeIndianmangoes(suchasAlphonsoorKesar),peeled,stonedandchoppedor150gmangopuréefromacan300gnaturalyogurt

100mlcoldwater3greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscardedcastersugar,totaste(optional)

1Blitzthechoppedmangoinablendertomakeasmoothpurée.Tiptheyogurtintotheblenderandpourinthewater.Blitzagainuntilsmooth.2Mixinthecardamomandsugar,ifusing,andservechilled.

MASTERCLASS

SOLKADI–TangyCoconutMilk

Kokumisatangy,purplefruitofthemangosteenfamilythatgrowsmainlyinGujarat,MaharashtraandGoa(seehere).ThisMaharashtriandrinkisservedcoldandisofteneatenmixedwithriceandapieceofspicyfriedfish,orservedonitsown.Kokumisknownforitscoolingproperties;intheswelteringheatofthesummer,itismadeintoacordialtobedilutedwithwater,called‘amrutkokum’.Theactiveingredientgarcinol,whichhasanti-inflammatoryproperties,helpstopreventsunstrokeandcoolthedigestivesystem.

Serves4PREPARATION→40minutes

YOUWILLNEED:400mlcoconutmilk8kokumpetals,washedandsoakedin2tablespoonsofwarmwaterfor10minutes

pinchofcastersugar2garliccloves,crushed2tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshcorianderleavessalt

1Addalltheingredientstothecoconutmilk,mixwellandleavetostandfor20minutes.Strain.

2Squeezethejuicefromthekokumintothedrinkanddiscardthepetalswhenthedrinkispinkandfairlysour.Ifitisnot,leavethekokuminforlonger.Serveatroomtemperature.

Kashaya

[HERBALTEA]

WheneverIhadacold,coughoratemperatureasachild,mygrandmotherwouldmakemethislovelytea.Itiscalled‘kadha’inmanyIndianlanguagesandhasitsrootsinAyurvedichealing.Thereareseveralversionsofthisdrink,dependingonpersonalpreferenceandthemalady.Fennelisusedfordigestiveupsets,cardamomfordigestion,gingerhelpswithcongestion,andcloves,whichareheating,openupthechannels(called‘srotas’inAyurveda:theseincludethelymphaticanddigestivesystems).Evenwithoutanillness,itmakesawonderfulwinterwarmer.

Serves4PREPARATION→2minutesCOOKING10minutes

1teaspooncuminseeds3blackpeppercorns3greencardamompods1cinnamonstick3clovesasmallknoboffreshrootgingerhoney,totaste

1Putthecuminseeds,peppercorns,cardamom,cinnamon,clovesandgingerinamortarandcrushroughlywithapestletobruise.2Combinethecontentsofthemortarwith500mlwaterinasaucepanandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmerfor5–6minutes.3Strainandaddhoneytotaste.Servehot.

MasalaChai

[SPICEDINDIANTEA]

Therearesomanydifferentrecipesforthis,dependingonpersonalpreference–youcanalsousespicessuchascinnamon,pepperandcloves.Youmustboileverythingtogethertoextractalltheflavourfromtheingredients.

Serves4PREPARATION→5minutesCOOKING15minutes

1teaspoonfennelseeds1.25cmpieceoffreshrootginger3greencardamompods,bruised250mlboilinghotwater250mlfull-fatorsemi-skimmedmilk(dependingonpreference)3teabagsor2teaspoons

strongloose-leafteacastersugar,totaste(optional)

1Crushthefennelseeds,gingerandcardamominamortarwithapestle.Putthespicesinaheavy-basedpanandpourinthewaterandmilk.Bringtotheboil,thenaddtheteabagsortea.2Reducetheheatandsimmerfor5minutes,untilacolourdevelops.3Removefromtheheat,strainthroughafinesieveintoaheatproofjuganddiscardthespicesandteabags.Servehot,sweetenedwithsugarifdesired.

AamKaPanna

[GREENMANGOCORDIAL]

Duringthehotsummermonthswhenmangoesareinseason,thisrefreshingdrinkismadeinhomesalloverthecountry.Itisaconcentratethatcanbestoredinthefridgeforuptoafortnightandtowhichwaterisaddedtodiluteit.Youcanuseotherfruitaswell–plumsandpineapplesworkreallywell.

Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING30minutes

1large,rawgreenmango,peeledandroughlychopped100gcastersugarormoretotaste(thecordialshouldbequitesweetasitwillbediluted

lateron)apinchofsaltafewstrandsofsaffronacoupleofturnsofthepeppermill3greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded

1Placethemangoinapanwith300mlwaterandbringtotheboil.Ialwaysboilthemangostoneaswell,togetitsflavourintothedrink.Reducetheheatandsimmerfor15minutesuntilthemangoispulpy.2Removefromtheheat,leavetocoolanddiscardthestone.Transfertoablenderandblitzuntilsmooth.Ifthepulpisstringy,strainitthroughafinesieve.3Addtheremainingingredientsandreturntotheheat.Cookoverahighheatforafewminutesuntilthesugarhasdissolvedcompletely.4Coolandstoreinthefridge.Tomakeaglassful,add3–4tablespoonsofthisconcentrateandtopwithchilledwater.

Shikanjvi

[SUMMERLEMONADE]

Alsoknownas‘nimbupani’or‘shikanji’,thisismadewithwaterorsparklingsoda.Youcanflavouritwithcoolingingredientssuchasrosewaterorsaffron.

Serves4PREPARATION→5minutes

juiceof2lemonsormoreforatangytastesalt,totastecastersugar,totaste2.5cmpieceoffreshrootginger,peeledandgratedapinchoffreshlygroundblackpepper

1Mixthelemonjuicewithsaltandsugartotaste,untilwellblended.2Squeezethegingerjuiceoutfromthegratedgingerandaddthistothemix.3Addthepepperand600mlcoldwaterandservechilled.

NarialKaSharbat

[ROSE-FLAVOUREDCOCONUTWATER]

ManyyearsagoinMumbai,beforecoconutwaterwaswidelyavailableinpacks,wewouldbuytendercoconutsfromthe‘nariyalwallah’andcrackthemopenathome.Wewouldchillthewaterwithcoolingflavourssuchasrosewateror‘khus’,knowninotherpartsoftheworldasvetiver.KhusisafragrantgrassthatgrowsinnorthernandwesternIndia.Itiscommerciallymadeintoabrightgreensyrupwithstrongwoodyovertonesthatisdilutedbeforebeingdrunktobeatthescorchingsummerheat.

Serves4PREPARATION→5minutes

1litrecoconutwater2teaspoonsrosewater

1Combinetheingredientsandservechilled.

HaldiKiChai

[TURMERICTEA]

Ihavebeendrinkingthistea,onceaday,forawhilenowandhaveexperienceditsgoodeffects,suchasahigherresistancetocoldsandcoughsandincreasedimmunitytoseasonalmaladiessuchastheflu.Isuggestittoeveryonethatattendsmyclassesandoftendemonstratehowiteasyitistomake!Ithasnotasteandtheturmericdoesnotmakeitspicy.Youcanaddhoneyorsugartosweetenit,ifyouprefer.

Serves4PREPARATION→5minutes

apinchofgroundturmericsugarorhoney(optional)

1Boil800mlwaterinakettle.2Putapinchofturmericin4mugsandpourtheboilingwateroverthetop.Theturmericwillchangeincolourandturnslightlyorange.Drinkhot.Youcansweetenitwithsugarorhoneyifyouwish.

Rasam

[LENTILSOUPWITHTAMARIND]

RasamiseatenwithriceinsouthIndiabutitssoupyconsistencyalsomakesitawarmingdrink.Youcanmakeitwhencookingdalbyaddingextrawaterthatisdrainedofftouseasstockinthisrecipe.

Serves4PREPARATION→plus15minutessoakingCOOKING50minutes

4tablespoonstoordal,soakedinwateratroomtemperaturefor15minutes,thendrained1teaspoongratedjaggeryorsoftlightbrownsugar2tablespoonsvegetableoil½teaspoonblackmustardseeds½teaspooncuminseedslargepinchofasafoetida10freshcurryleaves1teaspoontamarindpulporshop-boughttamarindpaste1teaspoonsambharpowder1teaspoongroundturmericsalt2tablespoonschoppedfreshcorianderleaves,toserve

1Placethetoordalinapanwith600mlwater,bringtotheboilthenreducetheheatandsimmerfor40minutesuntilmushy,skimmingthescumoffthesurfacefromtimetotime.Whenthelentilsarecooked,strainthemthroughasieveoveraheatproofbowl,reservingtheliquidstock(discardthelentils).Addthejaggeryorsugartothestockandseasonitwithsalt,stirringuntiltheydissolve.2Heattheoilinafryingpanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseeds.Whentheybegintocrackle,addthecumin,asafoetidaandcurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanastheleaveswillsplutter!).Fryforafewsecondsthenaddthetamarindandcookfor3–4minutesuntilitbecomesthickandbubbly.Stirinthegroundspices.

3Pourthestockintothetamarindmixture,bringtotheboilandremovefromtheheat.Servehotwithfreshcoriander.

Aaabgosht

aamkachhunda

aamkapanna

aamras

aamkilassi

aamti

adai

ajowan(ajwain)

mixedvegetableswithajowanandcoconut

alcohol1,2,3

aloobonda

aloogobi

alookeparonthe

aloomethi

alooposto

alootikki

amaranthleaves

amchoor1,2

ananasauranarkaraita

andekibhurji

AndhraPradesh

Andhramuttonfry

Andhra-stylecurrywithpoppyseeds

Andhra-styleprawnfry

appam

apples:greenapplechutney

apricots:steweddriedapricotswithcardamom

asafoetida1,2,3,4,5

lentilswithasafoetida

Maharashtrianlentilswithasafoetida

Assamesesweetandsourtomatochutney

atta

aubergines1,2,3

auberginesinasesameandpeanutsauce

fire-roastedauberginewithspices

friedspicedaubergine

roastedauberginewithyogurt

sourandhotauberginechutney

spicedauberginerice

stuffedbabyaubergines

avial

Ayurveda1,2

B

bagarebaingan

baghar

baidamasala

baidarashida

baidekakheema

bainganbharta

bajraflour

bajrekibhakri

bambooshoots

chilliporkwithbambooshoots

bananaflowers1,2

bananas:bananafritters

sweetandspicybananasalad

banarasialoo

barleyflour

batatyatalasani

battikhoya

beans1,2,3,4

beansalad

beansporiyal

beef1,2,3,4,5

spicybeefwithonions

beer1,2

beetroot:beetrootandyogurtraita

beetrootraitha

Bengalichickencurry

Bengalicholardal

Bengalieggcurry

Bengalifishinyogurt

Bengaligreenmangopickle

Bengalilambcurry

Bengaliprawncurry

Bengaliprawnsinmustardandpoppyseedsauce

Bengalitomatoraita

besanflour

besankeladdoo

besankiroti

besannikadhi

bhajamugerdal

bhajia,onion

bharelaringannushak

bhatura

bheedapareeda

bhindikisubzi

bhindikurkure

bhujane

bhuna

bhunagosht

bhunalobia

bilahirtok

biryani:lambbiryaniwithsouthernspices

NorthIndianchickenbiryani

slow-cookedbiryani

biscuits:puris

black-eyedbeans

stir-friedblackbeans

BombayFrankie

boondiraita

bootordali

boti

bread1,2,3,4,5

bhatura

chappatis1,2,3

cornbread

crispSindhi-stylebread

flatbreads1,2

friedspinachbread

lambmince-stuffedbread

makingadough

naanbread1,2,3

parathas1,2,3

pearlmilletbread

pooris1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17

richbreadpudding

rotis1,2,3,4

spicedmultigrainbread

breadfruit1,2

breakfast

breakfastmeatcurry

brinjals

brinjalchutney

seealsoaubergines

buffalo

bulgarwheat

butter1,2

butterychickencurry

ghee1,2,3,4,5

butterbeans

C

cabbage:cabbagewithcoconut

Gujarati-stylecabbageandpeasstir-fry

camphor

cardamom1,2

condensedyogurtandcardamomcream

steweddriedapricotswithcardamom

carrots

carrot,cauliflowerandturnippickle

Indiancarrotpudding

softricewithyogurt,cucumber,carrotandspices

warmcarrotsalad

cashewnuts1,2

cashewandmilkfudge

cashewnutchutney

cauliflower:carrot,cauliflowerandturnippickle

cauliflowerwithcoconutandpepper

grilledspicedcauliflowersteaks

NorthIndianspicedpotatowithcauliflower

chaatmasala

chaavalkikheer

chanadal

bottlegourdwithchanadal

chanadalwithonionandspices

chanadalwithraisins

chanyachiamti

chapatti1,2,3

chawlirajmakasalaad

cheenikayiraitha

chettinadmuttonbiryani

chicken1,2,3,4,5

Bengalichickencurry

butterychickencurry

chickenandspinachcurry

chickencafreal

chickenchettinad

chickencurrywithcreamandspices

chickencurrywithfenugreek

chickencurrywithpeppers

chickeninpicklingspices1,2

chickenmeatballsinatomatocurry

chickensamosas

chickentikka

creamychickencurry

creamychickentikka

cubedspicedchicken

Goancoconutchickencurry

Goangreenchicken

Keralachickenstew

Maduraichickencurry

Maharashtrianwhitechickencurry

masalachickenwings

NorthIndianchickenbiryani

Parsi-stylefriedchicken

preparingandcooking

Sindhi-stylechickencurry

spicychickenandcoconutcurry

spicySouthIndianchickencurry

tandoori-stylechicken

chickpeas1,2

coastalblackchickpeacurry

curriedchickpeas

chiknakhoya

children,cookingfor

chillies1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11

chilliporkwithbambooshoots

fishstuffedwithchilliandspice

potatobatonswithchilliandgarlic

Rajasthanimeatandchillicurry

redchillifish

chingrimacchermalaikari

cholay

chownk

chutney1,2,3,4

Assamesesweetandsourtomatochutney

cashewnutchutney

corianderandpeanutchutney

corianderchutney

dateandcorianderchutney

drycoconutandgarlicfireballchutney

greenapplechutney

mangoandcoconutchutney

mintandcorianderchutney

sevpuris

Sindhipomegranatechutney

sourandhotauberginechutney

spicycorianderpowderchutney

sweettamarindchutney

tomatoandcoconutchutney

whitecoconutchutney

cinnamon1,2,3,4

cloves1,2,3

coconut1,2,3,4

breakingandgrating

cabbagewithcoconut

cauliflowerwithcoconutandpepper

coconutrice

crabcurrywithroastedcoconut

crabstuffedwithmustardandcoconut

cucumberandcoconutraita

desiccatedcoconut

drycoconutandgarlicfireballchutney

Goancoconutchickencurry

greenbeanswithcoconut

mangoandcoconutchutney

mixedvegetablecurrywithcoconut

mixedvegetablesincoconutandyogurt

mixedvegetableswithajowanandcoconut

rice,coconutandeggpancakes

savourycoconutpancakes

spicychickenandcoconutcurry

spicylambwithspicesanddriedcoconut

spicysquidwithcoconut

sweetcornsaladwithspicesandcoconut

tomatoandcoconutchutney

whitecoconutchutney

yogurtandcoconutcurry

coconutmilk

mangoesincoconutmilk

tangycoconutmilk

coconutwater,rose-flavoured

coffee1,2

colocasia1,2

colour,usingspicesfor

condensation

cordial,greenmango

coriander1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9

corianderandpeanutchutney

dateandcorianderchutney

fishcookedincorianderchutney

herbycorianderfritters

mintandcorianderchutney

onionandcorianderraita

onionandtomatosaladwithdill,corianderandlime

spicycorianderpowderchutney

cornbread

cottagecheese:creamycottagecheeseinspicedmilk

crab

crabcurrywithroastedcoconut

crabstuffedwithmustardandcoconut

cream

makingbutterfrom

cucumber

cucumberandcoconutraita

cucumberandlentilstew

cucumberandmintsalad

fragrantcucumberandpeanutsalad

softricewithyogurt,cucumber,carrotandspices

culinarytermsandtechniques

cumin1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9

curry1,2

Andhra-stylecurrywithpoppyseeds

Bengalichickencurry

Bengalilambcurry

breakfastmeatcurry

butterychickencurry

chickenandspinachcurry

chickencurrywithcreamandspices

chickencurrywithfenugreek

chickencurrywithpeppers

chickenmeatballsinatomatocurry

coastalblackchickpeacurry

crabcurrywithroastedcoconut

creamyBengaliprawncurry

creamychickencurry

creamyfishcurry

curriedchickpeas

curriedeggsencasedinlambmince

eggandridgegourdcurry

eggdropcurry

eggsintomatocurry

fishandgreenmangocurry

Goancoconutchickencurry

Goanfishcurry

Goanporkcurry

Gujarati-stylesweetandsouryogurtcurry

howtomakeabasiccurry

lambbiryaniwithsouthernspices

lambcurrywithmilk

lambcurrywithscrewpinewater

lambinaspicedherbcurry

lightBengalieggcurry

Maduraichickencurry

Maharashtrianfishcurry

Maharashtrianwhitechickencurry

masalachickenwings

meatballcurry

mixedvegetablecurry

mushroomandpeakorma

nine-jewelledcurry

NorthIndianchickenbiryani

NorthIndianfishcurry

Parsilambandlentilcurry

potatoandeggcurry

railwaymuttoncurry

Rajasthanimeatandchillicurry

richcreamypaneercurry

richredKashmiricurry

richredMaharashtriancurry

sautéedmeatcurry

simpleIndianeggcurry

Sindhi-stylechickencurry

slow-cookedbiryani

spicedpotatocurry

spicychickenandcoconutcurry

spicySouthIndianchickencurry

sweetandsourfishcurry

sweetcornandmixedpeppercurry

tangyfishcurry

yogurtandcoconutcurry

yogurtcurrywithfrieddumplings

yogurtcurrywithokra

curryleaves1,2

D

daan-e-daarkhoya

dahikachumber

dahivada

dairyproducts1,2,3,4

dal

dalgosht

dalmakhani

five-lentildal

dalia

dalitoy

dateandcorianderchutney

Delhi

desserts

dhaarunjichutney

dhaniyekichutney

dhungar

dill

onionandtomatosaladwithdill,corianderandlime

dimerjhol

dinner

doimach

doodhichana

dosas1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12

greenmungbeandosa

neerdosa

drinks1,2,3

greenmangocordial

lentilsoupwithtamarind

mangolassi

mangosmoothie

rose-flavouredcoconutwater

saltedlassi

spicedIndiantea

summerlemonade

tangycoconutmilk

turmerictea

duck

pepperyKeraladuck

dum1,2,3

dumplings:milkdumplingsinrose-flavouredsyrup

yogurtcurrywithfrieddumplings

E

eatingout

eggs1,2

bakedeggswithtomato

choosingeggs

curriedeggsencasedinlambmince

eggandridgegourdcurry

eggdropcurry

eggsintomatocurry

lightBengalieggcurry

okrawitheggs

potatoandeggcurry

rice,coconutandeggpancakes

simpleIndianeggcurry

SouthIndianscrambledeggs

spicedmincedeggs

spicyscrambledeggs

elumichaisadam

equipment

F

fennel1,2

fenugreek1,2,3,4

buyingandstoring

chickencurrywithfenugreek

fenugreekleaveswithpotato

fish1,2,3,4,5

Bengalifishinyogurt

choosingfish

creamyfishcurry

fishandgreenmangocurry

fishcookedincorianderchutney

fishmarketsinIndia

fishrecheado

fishstuffedwithchilliandspice

Goanfishcurry

howtotellifitiscooked

Indianfishcakes

lightfishstew

Maharashtrianfishcurry

NorthIndianfishcurry

redchillifish

sweetandsourfishcurry

tangyfishcurry

wholespicedfish

seealsoindividualtypesoffish

flatbreads:sweetlentil-andjaggery-stuffedflatbread

unleavenedflatbreads

flavour:flavouringsfordesserts

usingspicesfor

flours

storingflours

typesof

flowercharassa

fritters:bananafritters

herbycorianderfritters

lentilfrittersinyogurt

onionfritters

vegetablefritters

fruit1,2

fruitchaat

fruitsasam

spicedfruitsalad1,2

fudge,cashewandmilk

G

gajargobishalgamkaachaar

gajarkahalwa

gajarnosambharo

garammasala1,2,3,4,5

garlic1,2,3,4,5,6,7

crispgarlicprawns

crisppotatoandgarlicballs

drycoconutandgarlicfireballchutney

garlicnaan

ginger-garlicpaste

lightlentilsoupwithgarlic

ghee1,2,3,4,5

ginger1,2,3,4

freshgingerraita

ginger-garlicpaste

Goa

Goancoconutchickencurry

Goanfishcurry

Goangreenchicken

Goanporkcurry

goat1,2,3

godamasala

godebatate

Goenchikodi

goldfoil,edible

gourds1,2,3,4,5

bottlegourdwithchanadal

spicedbittergourd

gramflour1,2

crispgramflourstraws

gramflourpancakes

gramfloursweets

softgramflourrolls

gramlentils

greenbeanswithcoconut

greenmungbeandosa

grilledfoods

tipsforsuccessful

gucchikorma

Gujarat1,2

Gujaratidal

Gujarati-stylecabbageandpeasstir-fry

Gujarati-stylesweetandsouryogurtcurry

gujiya

gulabjamun

H

halalmeat

haldikaachar

haldikichai

health,usingspicesfor

herbs1,2

herbycorianderfritters

prawnswithgreenherbs

homecooking

honey1,2

hyderabadikucchibiryani

I

icecream:saffronandpistachioicecream

spicedteaicecream

imlikichutney

inchipachadi

Indiancarrotpudding

Indiancottagecheesewithpeas

Indianfishcakes

Indianricepudding,spiced

ingredients

J

jackfruit1,2,3

jaggery1,2

NorthIndianlentilandjaggerypudding

sweetlentil-andjaggery-stuffedflatbread

jhingahariyali

K

kacchafoods

kachaamerachaar

kachumber

kadaparshad

kajuburfie

kajuchutney

kalan

kanavathoran

kandamirchichazunka

Karahimurghkofte

karelamasala

Karnataka

Kashaya

Kashmiricurry,richred

Kashmir1,2,3,4,5

kebabs

creamychickentikka

mincedlambkebabs

kelyamuluk

Kerala

Keralachickenstew

Keraladuck,peppery

Keralafishmolee

khajuraurdhaniyekichutney

khamangkakdi

khandvi

kheemamutter

kheemekeparatha

kheerepudinekaraita

khekdamasala

khoya1,2

khoya-filledpastries

sweetkhoya

kingfish,SouthIndianfried

kobivatananushak

kodiguddubeerakayakura

kodikurma

koftas:koftacurry

koftapulao

minilambkoftas

kokum1,2

Kolhapurimasala

Kolhapuripandhrarassa

Kolhapuritambdarassa

kolmibhaat

kolmifry

kolminopatio

Konkanichimborimasala

korigassi

korma:mushroomandpeakorma

nine-jewelledcurry

koshamangsho

koshamurgirmangsho

kothimbirvadi

kothimeerapodi

kovilpulihodarai

kozhikuzhambu

kulfi:mangokulfi

masalachaikulfi

kumracharchari

kuttanadantharavuroast

L

laalmaas

lacchaparatha

lalmasalyatlimacchi

lamb1,2,3,4

Andhramuttonfry

Bengalilambcurry

breakfastmeatcurry

curriedeggsencasedinlambmince

lambbiryaniwithsouthernspices

lambcurrywithmilk

lambcurrywithscrewpinewater

lambdhansak

lambinaspicedherbcurry

lambmince-stuffedbread

lambrezala

lambvepudu

lambwithlentils

lambwithspinach

meatballcurry

mincedlambkebabs

mincedlambwithpeas

minilambkoftas

Parsilambandlentilcurry

railwaymuttoncurry

Rajasthanimeatandchillicurry

richredKashmiricurry

richredMaharashtriancurry

roastlegoflamb

sautéedmeatcurry

spicylambwithspicesanddriedcoconut

spicywraps

vegetablepulaowithmeatballs

lasnachichutney

lassi:mangolassi

saltedlassi

lemons:lemonrice

summerlemonade

lentilflours

lentils1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10

bhajamugerdal

chanadalwithraisins

cucumberandlentilstew

digestibility

dosa

five-lentildal

howtocooklentils

lambwithlentils

lentilandricepancakes

lentilfrittersinyogurt

lentilsoupwithtamarind

lentilswithasafoetida

lentilswithonionsandcoriander

lentilswithspinach

lightlentilsoupwithgarlic

Maharashtrianlentilswithasafoetida

makingalentilbatter

NorthIndianlentilandjaggerypudding

Parsilambandlentilcurry

riceandyellowlentilpancakes

softriceandlentilswithspices

SouthIndianlentilandmilkpudding

SouthIndianlentilswithpumpkin

spicedbrownlentils

sproutinglentils

sweetandsourlentils

sweetlentil-andjaggery-stuffedflatbread

tangylentils

limes:onionandtomatosaladwithdill,corianderandlime

sweetlimepickle

lobster

lotusroot

lunch

M

maccherjhol

macchikecutlet

macchimasala

MadhyaPradesh1,2

Maduraichickencurry

Maharashtra

Maharashtriancurry,richred

Maharashtrianfishcurry

Maharashtrianlentilswithasafoetida

Maharashtrianwhitechickencurry

maida

maizeflour

makkaisimlamirchkisubji

makkikiroti

malvanirus-golichiamti

mangopowder

mangoes1,2,3,4,5

fishandgreenmangocurry

greenmangocordial

greenmangopachadi

mangoandcoconutchutney

mangokulfi

mangolassi

mangoseekarane

mangosmoothie

mangoesincoconutmilk

quickBengaligreenmangopickle

sweetmangochutney

marinades

masala

masalachickenwings

masalachai

masalachaikulfi

mashyachiamti

masoordal

masortenga

matkichiusal

meals,planning

meat1,2,3,4,5

breakfastmeatcurry

marinades

Rajasthanimeatandchillicurry

sautéedmeatcurry

seealsobeef;lamb,etc

meatballs:chickenmeatballsinatomatocurry

meatballcurry

vegetablepulaowithmeatballs

menus1,2

methimurgh

milk1,2,3,4,5,6,7

cashewandmilkfudge

clottedsweetmilk

creamycottagecheeseinspicedmilk

lambcurrywithmilk

makingbutterfrom

milkdumplingsinrose-flavouredsyrup

SouthIndianlentilandmilkpudding

milletflour

pearlmilletbread

mint

cucumberandmintsalad

mintandcorianderchutney

mintandcumin-flavouredrice

moath

moongdalhalwa

morkulambu

mosaranna

mothbeans

stir-friedmothsprouts

Mughlaicookery1,2

mungbeans

sproutedmungbeanssalad

mungchaat

mungdalkhichdi

mungdalpayasam

mungflour

munglentils:bhajamugerdal

murghachari

murghdumbiryani

murghjalfrezi

murghkakorma

murghmakhani

murghmalaitikka

murghpankhimasala

murghtikkaachari

murghinafarcha

mushrooms:mushroomandpeakorma

mushroompulao

ricewithmushroomsandcumin

mustard:Bengaliprawnsinmustardandpoppyseedsauce

crabstuffedwithmustardandcoconut

mustardgreens

mustardseeds1,2,3,4,5

muttaikuzhumbu

muttaiporiyal

muttakosthoran

muttarpaneer

mutton1,2,3

muttonkekofte

N

naanbread1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13,14,15

garlicnaan

peshwarinaan

nadanbeeffry

nadankozhiishtu

namkeenlassi

nargisikoftacurry

narialkasharbat

navratankorma

neerdosa

nihari

nilgirikurma

nimbukameethaachaar

nine-jewelledcurry

NorthIndianchickenbiryani

NorthIndianfishcurry

NorthIndianlentilandjaggerypudding

NorthIndianspicedpotatowithcauliflower

nuts1,2

sweetricewithnuts

O

oils1,2

okra:crisp,tangy,spicyokra

okrawitheggs

spicedstir-friedokra

yogurtcurrywithokra

onions1,2,3,4,5

chanadalwithonionandspices

lentilswithonionsandcoriander

onionandcorianderraita

onionandtomatosaladwithdill,corianderandlime

onionbhajia

paneerwithgreenpeppers,onionsandtomatoes

spicybeefwithonions

oondhiyoon

P

paalaada

pachadi

pakodewalikadhi

pakoras

vegetablepakoras

pakwan

palakdal

palakkaraita

palakkisubzi

palakmurgh

palakpaneer

palakpoori

pancakes1,2,3

gramflourpancakes

lentilandricepancakes

riceandyellowlentilpancakes

rice,coconutandeggpancakes

savourycoconutpancakes

semolinapancakes

seealsodosas

panchphoron

panchmeldal

paneer1,2

Indiancottagecheesewithpeas

paneerjalfrezi

paneerwithgreenpeppers,onionsandtomatoes

richcreamypaneercurry

skeweredpaneerandvegetables

spicyscrambledpaneer

spinachwithpaneer

paneerkesuley

paneerkibhurji

parathas1,2,3

Parsilambandlentilcurry

Parsisev

Parsi-stylebrownrice

Parsi-stylefriedchicken

pasta:finevermicellipudding

sweetvermicellipudding

pastries,khoya-filled

pathareprabhuchickenmasala

patranimacchi

pavbhaji

peanuts

auberginesinasesameandpeanutsauce

corianderandpeanutchutney

fragrantcucumberandpeanutsalad

peas1,2

flakedricewithpeas

Gujarati-stylecabbageandpeasstir-fry

Indiancottagecheesewithpeas

mincedlambwithpeas

mushroomandpeakorma

peppercorns1,2

cauliflowerwithcoconutandpepper

pepperyKeraladuck

peppers:chickencurrywithpeppers

paneerwithgreenpeppers,onionsandtomatoes

springonionsandpepperswithgramflour

sweetcornandmixedpeppercurry

pesarattu

peshwarinaan

pheasant

phirni

pickles1,2,3,4

carrot,cauliflowerandturnippickle

quickBengaligreenmangopickle

spicygoanprawnpickle

sweetlimepickle

pigeonpeas

pineappleandpomegranateinspicedyogurt

pistachios

saffronandpistachioicecream

plantains1,2,3

poha1,2

pomegranates

pineappleandpomegranateinspicedyogurt

Sindhipomegranatechutney

poondurasam

pooris1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17

poosanikaisambhar

poppadums

poppyseeds:Andhra-stylecurrywithpoppyseeds

Bengaliprawnsinmustardandpoppyseedsauce

potatoescookedwithpoppyseeds

pork1,2,3,4

chilliporkwithbambooshoots

Goanporkcurry

porkvindaloo

porkwithgaanjtenga

potatoes1,2,3

crisppotatoandgarlicballs

fenugreekleaveswithpotato

NorthIndianspicedpotatowithcauliflower

potatoandeggcurry

potatobatonswithchilliandgarlic

potatocakes

potato-stuffedbread

potatoescookedwithpoppyseeds

potatoeswithtamarindandcream

savourysagoandpotatocakes

sevpuris

spicedpotatocurry

spinachwithpotatoes

poultry1,2,3

seealsochicken

prawns

Andhra-styleprawnfry

creamyBengaliprawncurry

crispgarlicprawns

prawnbalchao

prawnpulao

prawnsinhottamarindsauce

prawnswithgreenherbs

spicygoanprawnpickle

pudinapulao

pudinekichutney

pukkafoods

pulao:prawnpulao

pulaorice

tomatopulao

vegetablepulaowithmeatballs

pulses1,2

pumpkin

pumpkinraita

pumpkinwithmustardseedpaste

SouthIndianlentilswithpumpkin

Punjab

puranpoli

puris1,2,3,4

sevpuris

Q

quail

quantities

qubanikameetha

quinoa

R

raan

rabdi

railwaymuttoncurry

raisins,chanadalwith

raita

beetrootandyogurtraita

Bengalitomatoraita

boondiraita

cucumberandcoconutraita

cucumberandmintsalad

freshgingerraita

onionandcorianderraita

pumpkinraita

spicedspinachraita

Rajasthan1,2

Rajasthanimeatandchillicurry

rajmatamater

rasam

rasmalai

rava

ravauttapam

redkidneybeans1,2,3

redkidneybeanswithtomatoes

regionalcooking

relishes

freshturmericrootrelish

rice1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9

chavalplainboiledrice

coconutrice

cookingmethods1,2

dosa

flakedricewithpeas

lemonrice

lentilandricepancakes

mintandcumin-flavouredrice

neerdosa

NorthIndianchickenbiryani

prawnpulao

riceandyellowlentilpancakes

rice,coconutandeggpancakes

ricewithcuminandfriedonions

ricewithfriedonionsandcaramel

ricewithmushroomsandcumin

savourycoconutpancakes

setricepudding

slow-cookedbiryani

softriceandlentilswithspices

softricewithyogurt,cucumber,carrotandspices

spicedauberginerice

spicedIndianricepudding

spicedNorthIndianriceandvegetablemedley

storingcookedrice

sweetricewithnuts

tamarindrice

tomatopulao

varietiesofrice

vegetablepulaowithmeatballs

riceflour1,2

roganjosh

rosewater

milkdumplingsinrose-flavouredsyrup

rose-flavouredcoconutwater

rotis1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17,18,19,20,21,22,23,24,25,26,27,28,29,30,31,32,33,34,35,36,37,38,39,40,41,42,43,44,45,46,47

royallavepudu

S

saagaloo1,2

saaggosht

sabudanakhichdi

sabudanavada

sabutmasoorkidal

saffron

saffronandpistachioicecream

semolinaandsaffronpudding

sago:savourysagoandpotatocakes

spicedpearlsago

salads

beansalad

cucumberandmintsalad

fragrantcucumberandpeanutsalad

fruitsaladwithtangyspices

onionandtomatosalad

spicedfruitsalad

sproutedmungbeanssalad

sweetandspicybananasalad

sweetcornsaladwithspicesandcoconut

warmcarrotsalad

salt1,2

sambharpowder

samosas1,2,3

chickensamosas

vegetablesamosa

Saojimutton

screwpinewater

lambcurrywithscrewpinewater

seafood1,2

sebkichutney

seeds

toasting

seekhkebab

semolina

savourysemolina

semolinaandsaffronpudding

semolinapancakes

sesameseeds

auberginesinasesameandpeanutsauce

sev

sevpuri

seviankheer

seyalmurgh

shahipaneer

shahitukde

sharkfishcrumble

shelflife,usingspicestoincrease

shikanjvi

shorshechingribhapa

shrikhand

silverfoil,edible

Sindhidal

Sindhikadhi

Sindhipomegranatechutney

Sindhi-stylebread,crisp

Sindhi-stylechickencurry

smoothie,mango

snacks

solkadi

sooji

soojikahalwa

sorrelleaves

soups:lentilsoupwithtamarind

lightlentilsoupwithgarlic

souringagents

SouthIndianchickencurry,spicy

SouthIndianfriedkingfish

SouthIndianlentilandmilkpudding

SouthIndianlentilswithpumpkin

SouthIndianscrambledeggs

spices1,2

spiceblends

storing

toasting

spinach

chickenandspinachcurry

friedspinachbread

lambwithspinach

lentilswithspinach

spicedspinachraita

spinachanddillmedley

spinachwithpaneer

spinachwithpotatoes

springonionsandpepperswithgramflour

squidwithcoconut,spicy

stews:cucumberandlentilstew

Keralachickenstew

lightfishstew

stir-fry,Gujarati-stylecabbageandpeas

streetfood

subziyonkitahiri

summerlemonade

suraputtu

sweetandsourfishcurry

sweetpotatoes

sweetcorn:sweetcornandmixedpeppercurry

sweetcornsaladwithspicesandcoconut

sweets1,2,3,4,5

cashewandmilkfudge

gramfloursweets

T

tadka

talna

tamarind1,2,3,4

howtomaketamarindpulp

lentilsoupwithtamarind

potatoeswithtamarindandcream

prawnsinhottamarindsauce

sweettamarindchutney

tamarindrice

tamaterkakut

tamaterpulao

TamilNadu

tamotapareedu

tandoorovens1,2,3

tandoorigobhi

tandoorimacchli

tandoorimurgh

tandoori-stylechicken

tarkadal

tea1,2,3

herbaltea

spicedIndiantea

spicedteaicecream

turmerictea

teetabhaat

temperingfoods

thakkalipachadi

thalipeeth

thengaichutney

tikhatkeli

tikka

creamychickentikka

tomatoes1,2,3,4,5

Assamesesweetandsourtomatochutney

bakedeggswithtomato

Bengalitomatoraita

chickenmeatballsinatomatocurry

eggsintomatocurry

onionandtomatosalad

paneerwithgreenpeppers,onionsandtomatoes

redkidneybeanswithtomatoes

tomatoandcoconutchutney

tomatopulao

turmeric1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8

freshturmericrootrelish

turmerictea

turnips

carrot,cauliflowerandturnippickle

U

upma

uraddal

uradflour

UttarPradesh1,2

V

val

sweetvalbeans

valachebirde

vangefry

vangibhaath

vangyachebhareet

vanjarammeenvaruval

varq

vatanepohe

vegetables1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9

leafyvegetables

mixedvegetablecurrywithcoconut

mixedvegetablesincoconutandyogurt

mixedvegetableswithajowanandcoconut

pavbhaji

regionalvegetables

rootvegetables

skeweredpaneerandvegetables

spicedNorthIndianriceandvegetablemedley

spicyvegetablecutlets

vegetablefritters

vegetablepakoras

vegetablepulaowithmeatballs

vegetablesaagu

vegetablesamosa

vegetablesinagramfloursauce

seealsopeas;potatoes,etc

vegetarianism1,2

vellarikapachadi

vellarikkakootu

vermicelli:finevermicellipudding

sweetvermicellipudding

vinegar

W

W

water

Wazawan

wheatflour1,2

wholewheatpudding

wine1,2,3

wraps,spicy

X

xacuti

Y

yams1,2,3

yogurt1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10

beetrootandyogurtraita

Bengalifishinyogurt

boondiraita

condensedyogurtandcardamomcream

Gujarati-stylesweetandsouryogurtcurry

lentilfrittersinyogurt

makingbutterfrom

mixedvegetablesincoconutandyogurt

pineappleandpomegranateinspicedyogurt

roastedauberginewithyogurt

softricewithyogurt,cucumber,carrotandspices

yogurtandcoconutcurry

yogurtcurrywithfrieddumplings

yogurtcurrywithokra

Z

zarda

PICTURECREDITS

AllimagesbyGarethMorgansexceptforthefollowing:

1©GalitSeligmann/AlamyStockPhoto

1(topleft)©TimGainey/AlamyStockPhoto;(topmiddle)©SandroLacarbona/AlamyStockPhoto;(topright)©AnilSharma/AlamyStockPhoto;(middleleft)©Indiaview/AlamyStockPhoto;(middleright)SajjadHussain/Stringer/GettyImages;(bottomleft)©FLPA/AlamyStockPhoto;(bottomright)©Hemis/AlamyStockPhoto1©dbimages/AlamyStockPhoto1©Robertharding/AlamyStockPhoto1(left)©ClaudeRenault/GettyImages;(middle)©MartinHarvey/AlamyStockPhoto1©DavidFettes/GettyImages1©Bloomberg/GettyImages

1©JS/AlamyStockPhoto

1©AroonThaewchatturat/AlamyStockPhoto1©ephotocorp/AlamyStockPhoto1©MatthieuPaley

1©TimGraham/AlamyStockPhoto1©MatthieuPaley

1©SanatKumarSingh/AlamyStockPhoto1©IndiaPictures/GettyImages1©TimGainey/AlamyStockPhoto1©DinodiaPhotos/AlamyStockPhoto1©YawarNazir/GettyImages1©JeremyWoodhouse/GettyImages1©TimGainey/AlamyStockPhoto1©Robertharding/AlamyStockPhoto1©Bloomberg/GettyImages

1©TimGainey/AlamyStockPhoto1©NituMistry/AlamyStockPhoto1©DanitaDelimont/AlamyStockPhoto1©MuslianshahMasrie/AlamyStockPhoto1©MatthieuPaley

1©MatthieuPaley

1©PacificPress/GettyImages1©IndiaPictures/GettyImages1©MichaelMarquand/GettyImages1©MuthuramanVaithinathan/AlamyStockPhoto1©TauseefMustafa/Stringer/GettyImages1©MatthieuPaley

1©MatthieuPaley

1©MatthieuPaley

1©SubhenduSarkar/GettyImages1©MatthieuPaley

1©MatthieuPaley

1©MatthieuPaley

1©MatthieuPaley

1©Ayan82/GettyImages

1©BoazRottem/AlamyStockPhoto1©StuartForster/AlamyStockPhoto1©BonkersAboutTravel/AlamyStockPhoto1©VikramRaghuvanshi/GettyImages1©NigelKilleen/GettyImages1©agefotostock/AlamyStockPhoto1©AmandaKosterProductions/GettyImages1©PhotosIndia.comLLC/AlamyStockPhoto1©Westend61GmbH/AlamyStockPhoto1©MatthieuPaley

1©TimGainey/AlamyStockPhoto1©JakeLyell/AlamyStockPhoto1©GregElms/GettyImages

1©TimGraham/GettyImages1©MatthieuPaley

1©BartoszHadyniak/GettyImages1©MatthieuPaley

1©MoneySharma/GettyImages1©KeithBeaty/GettyImages1©SaurabhRajSharan/GettyImages1©PacificPress/GettyImages1©DinodiaPhotos/AlamyStockPhoto1©Biju

Boro/Stringer/GettyImages1©BoazRottem/AlamyStockPhoto1©TimGainey/AlamyStockPhoto1©DinodiaPhotos/AlamyStockPhoto1©DinodiaPhotos/AlamyStockPhoto1©MatildaDelves/GettyImages1©MatthieuPaley

1©TimGainey/AlamyStockPhoto1©YogeshMore/AlamyStockPhoto1©SamPanthaky/GettyImages1©AFP/Stringer/GettyImages1(left)©HindustanTimes/GettyImages;(middle)©YawarNazir/GettyImages;(right)©Bloomberg/GettyImages1©BashirOsman’sPhotography/GettyImages1©HindustanTimes/GettyImages1©MatthieuPaley

1©MatthieuPaley

1©MatthieuPaley

FURTHERINFORMATION

BooksIllustratedFoodsofIndiabyK.T.Achaya(OxfordUniversityPressIndia,2009)

RoyalLifeinManasollasabyP.Arundhati(SundeepPrakashan,1994)

VegetableCropsbyT.R.Gopalakrishnan(NewIndia,NewDelhi,2007)

KanvasatapathabrahmanampublishedbytheIndiraGandhiNationalCentrefortheArtsinassociationwithMotilalBanarasidassPublishersPvtLtd.

Ain-i-AkbaribyAbu’l-FazlibnMubarak,translatedbyHeinrichBlochmannandHenrySullivanJarrett(GeorgiasPress,2010)orhttps://archive.org

RecentAdvancesinIndo-PacificPrehistory,editedbyVirendraN.MisraandPeterBellwood(OxfordandIBHPublishingCo.,1985)

CharakaSamhitahttps://archive.org

TheRigvedatranslatedbyRalphGriffin(CreateSpaceIndependentPublishingPlatform,2015)

IngredientsForonlinespicesandingredientstry:www.seasonedpioneers.comwww.itadka.com

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

AbigthankyoutoKyleCathieforofferingmethisbook–itwasaprojectIsowantedtodo!Alsotomyeditor,VickyOrchard,forhermeticulousandpersistentattentiontodetail;toGarethMorgans,forthescrumptiousphotographyandajollylaugh(ormany)alongwithSunilVijayakarwhosestylingmakesthebookalmostedible!PollyWebb-WilsondidamarvellousjobwithpropsandJennyandRosieweredelightfultoworkwithinthestudio.ThankyoualsotomychildrenArrushandIndiaforbeingwilling‘testers’asIcreatedcountlessrecipesinmykitchenandforgoingwithmeonallthosefoodtripsaroundIndia–maywedomanymore!!

DEDICATION

ForArrushandIndia,withallmylove,always

FirstpublishedinGreatBritainin2016byKyleBooksanimprintofKyleCathieLimited

192–198VauxhallBridgeRoad,LondonSW1V1DX

general.enquiries@kylebooks.comwww.kylebooks.co.uk

eISBN9780857835932

MonishaBharadwajisherebyidentifiedastheauthorofthisworkinaccordancewithSection77oftheCopyright,DesignsandPatentsAct1988.

Allrightsreserved.Noreproduction,copyortransmissionofthispublicationmaybemadewithoutwrittenpermission.Noparagraphofthispublicationmaybereproduced,copiedortransmittedsave

withwrittenpermissionorinaccordancewiththeprovisionsoftheCopyrightAct1956(asamended).Anypersonwhodoesanyunauthorisedactinrelationtothispublicationmaybeliableto

criminalprosecutionandcivilclaimsfordamages.

Text©MonishaBharadwaj2016Photographs©GarethMorgans2016exceptthoselistedonhereDesign©KyleBooks2016Mapillustration(1)©JamieWhyte2016

Editor:VickyOrchardEditorialassistant:AmberleyLowisDesign:JaneHumphreyPhotography:GarethMorgansFoodstyling:SunilVijayakarPropsstyling:PollyWebb-WilsonProduction:NicJones

andGemmaJohn