the larousse book of bread Éric kayser · the larousse book of bread Éric kayser step-by-step...

The Larousse Book of Bread

Éric Kayser

Step-by-step home baking recipes from France’s foremost

culinary resource, Larousse, and Parisian master baker Éric

Kayser.

The Larousse Book of Bread features more than 80 home baking

recipes for breads and pastries from two of France’s most trusted

authorities. From traditional Boule and Cob and specialty Ryes

and Multigrains, to gluten-free Organic Sour Doughs and Spelts

and sweet Brioches, Kayser’s easy-to-follow recipes feature

detailed instructions and step-by-step photography.

No matter if you are creating quick and simple Farmhouse Breads

or gourmet treats like Croissants and Viennese Chocolate Bread,

with its unique structure and a comprehensive guide to

techniques, ingredients and equipment, The Larousse Book of

Bread is the ideal baking resource for both home cooks and

professionals.

Save 20% with coupon code: LA20EK

http://www.phaidon.com/store/food-cook/the-larousse-book-of-bread-9780714868875/?utm_source=pdf&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=larousse


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Foreword 9For the Love of Bread 10

The Basics oF Bread making12

Flours 14choosing the right ingredients 16equipment 18kneading 20Fermentation 24Liquid sourdough starter 25Pre-Fermentation methods 26Fresh Yeast in Bread making 28 The Two stages of Fermentation 30Pre-shaping the dough 32Final shaping 34scoring the dough 38Baking & storing Bread 42Learning from mistakes 44

TradiTionaL Breads46

Boule 48Batard 52Baguette 54Polka Bread 56Fancy Loaves: Ficelle, epi, & Braided 58Baker’s Peel 64Petite Baguette 66rustic Loaf 68Tabatiere 70split Loaf 74daisy Loaf 76Portemanteau 78The Twist 82Zigzag Bread 84couronne Bread ring 86Bow Tie Bread 90

sPeciaLTY Breads92

“First mill” Loaf 94cornmeal Loaf 96mixed seed Bread 98kamut® Bread 100Whole Wheat Bread 104semolina Bread 106country Bread 108Bran Loaf 110rye Bread 112maslin Loaf 116gluten-Free cornbread 120gluten-Free chestnut Flour Bread 122rosemary Focaccia 124macatia 128ekmek 130Pumpernickel 132Broa 136Bagels 138sesame Buns 142swiss “cross” Bread 144



organic naTuraLLY-Leavened Breads

146

organic Baguette 148organic stone-ground Bread 152classic organic Bread 154organic Buckwheat Bread 158organic spelt Bread 160organic einkorn Bread 164organic Whole Wheat Bread 166stone-ground Bread with currants 168

Breads WiTh exTras 170

hazelnut & Butter Bread 172gorgonzola & Walnut Bread 174green Tea & orange Loaf 176orange Bread 180Fig Bread 182honey Bread 184Walnut & Butter Bread 186Turmeric Bread 190mixed Fruit & nut crowns 192sesame seed Bread 196cuttlefish ink Bread 198

oiL-enriched Breads200

Plain ciabatta 202mixed seed ciabatta 208Buckwheat ciabatta 210Pumpkin seed ciabatta 212Basil Bread 216sun-dried Tomato Bread 218Fougasse with ash goat cheese 220Fougasse with Black & green olives 222Fougasse with Lardons 226Pizza 228

sWeeT PasTries & Breads

232

Paris Buns 234viennese Bread 236sugar Bread 240classic Brioche 242Brioche Loaf 246raisin Benoitons 248croissants 250Pain au chocolat 254vanilla rolls 258Pullman Loaf 260Pain aux raisins 264

Bread roLLs 268

Poppy seed rolls 270Bread rolls with Lardons & Pecans 272Pistolets 276kamut® & seaweed rolls 278hazelnut & chocolate rolls 280Walnuts & raisin rolls 284Breadsticks 286

aPPendix290

Bulk conversions 292conversions 305 glossary 306index 308



9

around the late nineties, the French rediscovered bread—not just any old bread, but the bread that, these days, is offered by exceptional artisan bakers. the use of natural leavens and quality flours, the alliance of tradition and technology, the inventiveness—these are some of the reasons for the renaissance. tired of soulless commercial products, consumers now want to understand how their bread is made, and this book is a response to those demands.

it is a short journey from the quest for good bread to making it yourself, and renowned French artisan baker Éric kayser wants you to take that step. His goal for you is ambitious because he invites you to throw yourself into the process of making bread using natural leaven. you will easily find the ingredients you need for the recipes in this book in good supermarkets and specialist stores. you already have an oven. if you don’t want to knead by hand you can use an electric stand mixer. if you work with good ingredients, you are already more than halfway there. For the rest, there are the step-by-step explanations of the recipes, which you can follow in Massimo pessina’s close-up photographs.

Éric kayser, who runs many bakeries in France and abroad, receives a constant stream of requests from private individuals who want to spend a night in the bakery, baking bread. this book demonstrates his eagerness to satisfy the urge that many of us have to touch and feel dough with our own hands and, through making it ourselves, to understand what bread really is. “people today are seeking authenticity in all kinds of things,” he explains. “and what could be better than bread, when it is made honestly, with no trickery or artifice, to convey this feeling of authenticity?”

FoReWoRd


10

FoR tHe Love oF BRead

i come from a long line of bakers originating in alsace in France. My family is from the Franche-comté, specifically from a town called Lure, where my father practiced the craft and passed it to me. as a child, i loved the time that i spent with him in the bakery and i always saw myself following in his footsteps —but in a different way, somehow combining the job with my childhood dreams of traveling the world. although my father was happy in his work, i had the impression that he was tied to his bakery. the image of the artisan baker, working seven days a week and part of the nights, will either entice or deter you. i persisted, starting an apprenticeship in Fréjus, at gérard Levant’s bakery. there i learned how to mix the dough, how to make the leaven, how to put bread in the oven with a baker’s peel. Levant was a good teacher who passed on to me the love of work well done. at that time, there were no restrictions on working hours for minors, and i often started before 1 a.m. one time, i took a girl out to go dancing and explained that i would disappear by midnight, like cinderella. When she asked why, i told her that i was a baker… and the spell was broken. But while these can be the drawbacks of the occupation, they did not discourage me. While doing my military service i took the opportunity of signing up as a conscript in Lebanon, where i joined the blue berets of the unfil (united nations interim Force in Lebanon). that experience only reaffirmed my desire to see the world. on returning to France, i joined the Compagnons du Devoir (“companions of duty”), a workers’ association that offered apprentices opportunities to further their training and to travel. the chance to gain practical knowledge while traveling appealed to me. collective life had many rules. My daily routine comprised a total of 10 hours of work, on top of which i had 5–6 hours of lessons—either giving or receiving them—as well as various tasks and duties to carry out within the community. i completed my “tour of France” in four years, earning on graduation the name Franc- Comtois le Décidé (“the resolute Franc-comtois”).

Living with others, sharing, receiving, giving: these are the values most at risk in young people, who often prefer to shut themselves in their rooms playing video games. i learned from the Compagnons the desire to do good, as well as tenacity and a love of honest work. My own experiences instilled


11

in me a desire to help prevent apprentices going astray in the world, to teach them how to respect others and to earn respect themselves. i believe in humankind. Within every lost soul, there is always something good that will help him find his way, provided he allows himself to be helped. i am absolutely delighted that the Compagnons du Devoir is now open to women, which was not the case in my day. some of them have become remarkable stonemasons or bakers.

at the request of the companionship, i was asked to help develop training programs for the future. at the time, i was already running training courses and work-placement schemes for the Institut National de la Boulangerie Pâtisserie (the inbp, or the national institute of Baking and pastry- Making—France’s leading technical college for bakers). these internships operated within the framework of the Centres de Formation d’Apprentis (cfa, or centers for the training of apprentices) and then shifted to bakeries. over the course of two to three nights, we would show bakers how to organize their work. it was a question of not hurting people’s feelings and i found the experience character-building. in the course of these training sessions patrick castagna (a greatly valued trainer by inbp) and i began to realize that bakers who had abandoned natural leavens after the war wanted to go back to using them, but did not know how. so together, in 1992, we created a baking consultancy (panis victor) and started to develop a concept for a machine that would be capable of handling natural leavens. the gradual adoption of natural leavens by French bakers meant that millers were starting to offer us bakers ancient varieties of high-quality wheat flour that had been abandoned because of low yields. the entire industry, from field to bakery, began to be questioned. We developed the concept for our Fermentolevain machine in association with the bakery division of the swedish company electrolux. it meant a great deal of traveling around the world to launch our machines. Fermentolevain won the innovation award at europain 1994.

on 13 september, 1996, i opened my first bread shop at 8 rue Monge in paris—partly inspired by memories of my father’s bakery. i wanted to reproduce a child’s picture book image of the traditional bakery, complete with a bread oven built on a hearth of firebricks. We were resolved to banish people’s vision of dreary supermarket shelves with their limp plastic-wrapped baguettes. there is little doubt that the use of quality flours and natural leavens, together with skilled kneading and baking, have all contributed to French people’s renewed desire for bread with complex aromas and a fresh, light crumb. these days, i fly around the world to open new bakeries on other continents and to bring a love of French bread to people who have never tasted it. But i do miss the hands-on contact with dough, and i often feel the urge to return to a bakery and to start kneading.

— Éric kayser


54

KNEADING IN A STAND MIXER

Put the flour and water in the bowl and mix for 4 minutes at low speed. Remove the bowl from the machine and cover it with a damp cloth. Leave to rest for 1 hour, then add the starter, fresh yeast, and salt. Knead with the dough hook for 4 minutes at low speed, then for 7 minutes at high speed.

KNEADING BY HAND

Put the flour on a work surface or in a mixing bowl and make a large well in the center. Pour in two-thirds of the water and mix until all the flour has been incorporated. Leave to rest for 1 hour under a damp cloth, then incorporate the rest of the water, the starter, fresh yeast, and salt. Knead the dough until it becomes smooth and elastic.

Shape into a ball and cover with a damp cloth. Let rise for 1 hour 30 minutes. It will have increased in volume by the end of the rising time.

Dust the work surface. Divide the dough into 3 equal pieces. Fold each piece over on itself, pulling gently to stretch into a longish log. Cover with a damp cloth and leave to rest for 30 minutes.

Working with 1 piece of dough at a time, use the palm of your hand to flatten it gently. With the long side facing you, fold in a third towards the center and press along the edge with your fingertips [ 1 ]. Swivel the dough 180 degrees. Fold in the other long edge so that it overlaps in the center and press with the heel of your hand. Fold one half on top of the other, and seal the edges together with the heel of your hand [ 2 ].

With lightly floured hands, roll the baguette out to 21 inches (55 cm) long, then pinch each end into a point [ 3 ]. Shape the other 2 baguettes the same way.

Carefully lift the baguettes onto a lightly floured baker’s cloth, seams underneath. Separate them by making folds in the cloth. Cover with a damp cloth and leave to proof for 1 hour 40 minutes, by which time the baguettes will have increased in volume [ 4 ].

Place a baking sheet on the bottom shelf of the oven and preheat to 450°f (230°c). Gently place the baguettes, seam down, on another baking sheet lined with parchment (baking) paper. Dust with flour and make 4 evenly spaced oblique slashes along the length of each baguette [ 5 ]. Just before putting the baguettes in the oven, pour 50 g (scant ¼ cup) of water onto the preheated baking sheet. Bake for 20 minutes.

Remove from the oven and leave to cool on a wire rack.

BAGuETTE

Makes 3 baguettes, each about 300 g

TIMINGS

•Mixing & kneading: 15 min•First resting: 1 h•First rising: 1 h 30 min•Second resting: 30 min•Proofing: 1 h 40 min•Baking: 20 min

INGREDIENTS

•500 g (4 cups) all-purpose (plain) flour, plus extra for dusting

•325 g (scant 1 ⅓ cups) water at 68°f (20°c)

•100 g (scant ½ cup) liquid sourdough starter (or 25 g [3 tablespoons] dry sourdough starter)

•3 g (1 teaspoon) fresh baker’s yeast, crumbled

•10 g (2 teaspoons) salt

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55 Traditional Breads

1

4

5

2 3

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138


Put the flour, water, starter, fresh yeast, salt, sugar, and egg in the mixing bowl. Knead with the dough hook for 4 minutes at low speed, then for 3 minutes at high speed. Add the butter and knead at high speed for another 3 minutes.

KNEADING BY HAND

Put the flour on a work surface or in a mixing bowl and make a large well in the center. Pour in half the water, then add the starter, fresh yeast, salt, sugar, and egg. Mix well, then add the remaining water and knead until all the flour is incorporated. Add the butter and knead the dough until it becomes smooth and elastic.

Put the dough onto a floured work surface [ 1 ]. Use your hands to flatten and roll it into a rough oblong [ 2, 3 ]. Use a dough cutter to divide the dough into 9 equal piece [ 4 ]. Cover with a damp cloth and leave to rest for 15 minutes.

Roll each piece of dough under your hands to form nicely rounded balls [ 5, 6 ]. Dust the tops with flour, then push your finger into the center of each ball to form a hole [ 7 ]. Gradually stretch the holes and widen them to a diameter of around 1 inch (2.5 cm) to create the traditional bagel ring [ 8, 9, 10 ]. Cover the bagels with a damp cloth and leave to proof for 30 minutes.

Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil. Reduce to a simmer, then lower in the bagels, 1 at a time, with a slotted spoon [ 11 ]. Cook for 1 minute 30 seconds, then turn the bagels over in the simmering water and cook for another 1 minute 30 seconds. They will expand as they cook [ 12 ]. let the bagels drain on a wire rack set above the sink. Cook the remaining bagels the same way.

Prepare 2 large plates, 1 covered with poppy seeds, the other with sesame seeds. In a small bowl, lightly beat the egg. Brush the cooked bagels lightly with beaten egg, then roll them in poppy or sesame seeds. leave some plain. Arrange them on baking sheets lined with parchment (baking) paper.

Place another baking sheet on the bottom shelf of the oven and preheat to 400°f (200°c). Just before putting the bagels in the oven, pour 50 g (scant ¼ cup) of water onto the preheated baking sheet. Bake for 15 minutes.


BAGElS

Makes 9 bagels, each about 100 g

TIMINGS

•Mixing & kneading: 10 min•First rising: 1 h•Resting time: 15 min•Proofing: 30 min•Boiling: 30 min•Baking: 15 min

INGREDIENTS


•200 g (scant 1 cup) water at 68°f (20°c)


•5 g (1 ½ teaspoons) fresh baker’s yeast

•10 g (2 teaspoons) salt•20 g (2 tablespoons) sugar•2 eggs•25 g (2 tablespoons)

softened butter•Poppy and sesame seeds

for topping

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139 Specialty Breads

1

4

7 8 9

10 11 12

2

5

3

6


140Bagels

new image; requires proofing


141 Specialty Breads


186


Put the flour, water, starter, fresh yeast, salt, milk powder and sugar in the bowl. Knead with the dough hook for 5 minutes at low speed [ 1 ], then for 7 minutes at high speed. Mix in the butter [ 2 ] and knead for another 3 minutes. Add the walnuts and mix in briefly at low speed.

KNEADING BY HAND

Put the flour on a work surface or in a mixing bowl and make a large well in the center. Pour in half the water, then add the starter, fresh yeast, salt, milk powder, and sugar. Mix well, then add the rest of the water and blend until all the flour has been incorporated. Add the butter and knead the dough until it becomes smooth and elastic. Add the walnuts at the end of the kneading.

Shape the dough into a ball, cover with a damp cloth, and leave to rise for 1 hour 30 minutes. Midway through the rise, deflate the dough by folding it in half. It will have increased in volume by the end of the rising time.

Dust the work surface. Divide the dough into 5 equal pieces and shape them into balls. Cover with a damp cloth and leave to rest for 15 minutes.

Working with 1 piece of dough at a time, use the palm of your hand to flatten it gently into a rough oval. With the long side facing you, fold in a third towards the center and press along the edge with your fingertips. Swivel the dough 180 degrees. Fold in the other long edge so that it overlaps in the center and press again. Fold one half on top of the other and seal the edges together with the heel of your hand [ 3 ]. With lightly floured hands, roll the dough out to form a plump oval. Shape the other 4 loaves the same way.

Score the loaves diagonally in a “sausage” cut [ 4 ] (see page 41). Place them, seams underneath, on a floured baker’s cloth. Separate them by making folds in the cloth. Cover with a damp cloth and leave to proof for 1 hour 15 minutes.

Place a baking sheet on the bottom shelf of the oven and preheat to 450°f (230°c). Arrange the loaves on another baking sheet lined with parchment (baking) paper. Just before putting the loaves in the oven, pour 50 g (scant ¼ cup) of water onto the preheated baking sheet. Bake for 17 minutes.


WALNuT&

BuTTER BREAD

Makes 5 loaves, each about 220 g

TIMINGS

•Mixing & kneading: 15 min•First rising: 1 h 30 min•Resting: 15 min•Proofing: 1 h 15 min•Baking: 17 min

INGREDIENTS


•225 g (scant 1 cup) water at 68°f (20°c)


•5 g (1 ½ teaspoons) fresh baker’s yeast, crumbled

•10 g (2 teaspoons) salt•25 g (¼ cup) milk powder•35 g (scant ¼ cup) sugar•75 g (⅓ cup)

softened butter•150 g (1 ½ cups) walnuts,

chopped

Hold background

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187 Breads with Extras

1

4

2 3

Image positioning has changed


188Walnut & Butter Bread

NEW IMAGE INSERTED

AT 120% CHECK IF uSABLE


189 Breads with Extras


305 Conversions

CONVERSIONS

VOLuMESwEIghT MEASuREMENTS

TEMPERATuRESFLOuRS

5 ml

10 ml

15 ml

30 ml

50 ml

75 ml

100 ml

125 ml

150 ml

200 ml

250 ml

300 ml

350 ml

400 ml

425 ml

450 ml

500 ml

600 ml

700 ml

850 ml

1 liter

1.2 liters

1.5 liters

1.8 liters

2 liters

All-purpose (plain) flour

Organic all-purpose (plain) flour

Organic stone-ground fllour

Organic flour for rolls or baguettes

Organic fine stone-ground flour

whole wheat flour

Coarse whole wheat flour

Coarse, organic whole wheat flour

Light rye flour

Medium rye flour

Dark rye flour

Buckwheat flour

Fine cornmeal flour

Fine semolina flour

wheat bran

Chestnut flour

Soya flour

Spelt flour

Einkorn flour

F°

225

250

275

300

325

350

375

400

425

450

475

C°

110

130

140

150

170

180

190

200

220

230

240

gas

¼

½

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

Farine de blé t65

Farine de blé t65 bio

Farine de meule t65 bio

Farine de blé t80

Farine de meule t80 bio

Farine de blé t110

Farine de blé t150

Farine de blé t150 bio

Farine de seigle t80



Farine de sarrasin

Farine de mais

Semoule de blé

Son de blé

Farine de chataigne

Farine de soya

Farine d’épautre

Farine d’engrain (bio)

Description

Very cool

—

cool

—

very moderate

moderate

—

moderately hot

hot

—

very hot

10 g

20 g

25 g

50 g

60 g

75 g

100 g

110 g

150 g

175 g

200 g

225 g

250 g

275 g

350 g

400 g

450 g

500 g

600 g

700 g

900 g

1 kg

1.1 kg

1.3 kg

1.5 kg

1.6 kg

1.8 kg

2 kg

2.2 kg

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

—

3 mm

5 mm

1 cm

2 cm

2.5 cm

3 cm

4 cm

5 cm

6 cm

7.5 cm

9 cm

10 cm

11.5 cm

12.5 cm

15 cm

17 cm

18 cm

20.5 cm

23 cm

24 cm

25.5 cm

30.5 cm

1 teaspoon

1 dessert spoon

1 tablespoon

1 fl oz

2 fl oz

3 fl oz

3 ½ fl oz

4 fl oz (½ pt)

5 fl oz (¼ pt)

7 fl oz (⅓ pt)

9 fl oz

10 fl oz (½ pt)

12 fl oz

14 fl oz

15 fl oz

16 fl oz

18 fl oz

20 fl oz (1 pt)

1 ¼ pints

1 ½ pints

1 ¾ pints

2 pints

2 ½ pints

3 pints

3 ½ pints

¼ oz

½ oz

1 oz

2 oz

2 ½ oz

3 oz

3 ½ oz

4 oz

5 oz

6 oz

7 oz

8 oz

9 oz

10 oz

12 oz

14 oz

1 lb

18 oz

1 ¼ lb

1 ½ lb

2 lb

2 ¼ lb

2 ½ lb

3 lb

3 lb 5 oz

3 ½ lb

4 lb

4 ½ lb

5 lb

⅛ inch

¼ inch

½ inch

¾ inch

1 inch

1 ¼ inches

1 ½ inches

2 inches

2 ¼ inches

2 ½ inches

3 inches

3 ½ inches

4 ½ inches

5 inches

6 inches

6 ½ inches

7 inches

8 inches

9 inches

9 ½ inches

10 inches

11 inches

14-11-17_BookofBread-9-Endmatter-ML SB.indd 305 18/11/2014 09:58

306glossary

AMyLASE

A natural enzyme found in flour that breaks down starch into fermentable sugars. These are then mainly converted into carbon dioxide (co2) and alcohol during fermentation*.

ASh CONTENT

This is a European method used to determine a flour’s type (“t” grade). It represents the mineral residue left after flour is burnt at a temperature of 1652°f (900°c). The higher the t grade, the more husks (bran*) are present in the flour, making it more “complete.”

BAkER’S LAME

A razor-sharp baker’s knife, usually mounted on a special handle, used to score* dough prior to baking.

BAkER’S PEEL

A wooden paddle used to slide dough—especially flatbreads and pizzas—into the oven.

BAkER’S yEAST

A single-celled micro-organism (Saccharomyces cerevisiae) used to leaven bread. It is capable of reproducing and multiplying very rapidly in sugar-rich environments, converting sugars into carbon dioxide, which makes the dough rise.

BANNETON

A wicker proofing basket, usually lined with heavy linen. used for proofing*, particularly for very wet doughs.

BASE TEMPERATuRE

used to calculate the temperature of dough after kneading, usually 75–77°f (24–25°c), by adding the ambient (room) temperature to the temperature of the flour and water.

BASSINAgE

A process whereby a quantity of water is held in reserve and then added at the end of kneading to loosen a very stiff dough.

BATARD

A torpedo-shaped loaf, shorter than a baguette, but not as round as the old-style pain de deux livres.

BOuLER

To shape dough into balls. The French boule (round loaf) gets its name from this word.

BRAN

The outer husk or hull of cereals, which can be removed or retained during grinding. The bran contains the bulk of a grain’s fiber.

COuChE

heavy-weight linen fabric (also known as a baker’s cloth) used for proofing*. Folds in the cloth keep the pieces of dough separate and prevent them from touching.

CRuMB

A term used to define the inside of the bread. By looking at the cell structure of the crumb, bakers can analyze the hydration, flour types, and yeast amounts.

DEFLATE

To release air from the dough during the first fermentation (first rise). This is achieved by folding the dough over on itself. It helps strengthen the gluten structure and helps the dough rise more effectively during the second fermentation* (proofing*).

FERMENTATION

An organic chemical activity whereby sugars contained in the flour are transformed in an anaerobic environment (without air) through the action of yeasts and enzymes (see amylase*). In baking, the fermentation is “alcoholic,” in that the simple sugars (glucose, maltose) are broken down by yeasts into carbon dioxide and ethyl alcohol. Carbon

gLOSSARy

words with an asterisk* are explained within this glossary.


307

dioxide causes the dough to rise. The fermentation comprises two stages: first rise* after kneading, and proofing* after shaping.

FIRST RESTINg

Also known as autolyse, this is a pre-fermentation resting period, prior to kneading. This process helps the gluten* develop more quickly, gives a more elastic dough, and reduces the length of kneading time.

FIRST RISE

The first period of fermentation* that begins after kneading but before the dough is divided into pieces and shaped*. It is done at room temperature in a draft-free spot and can include a period in the refrigerator.

gLAzE

To create a glossy appearance on the surface of a bread. Often achieved by brushing the dough with a lightly beaten egg just prior to baking.

gLuTEN

The elastic matter formed in dough by the proteins (mainly gliadins and glutenins), when kneaded with liquid. Found in nearly all cereals used for bread. kneading* develops the glutens into strands that form a glutinaceous network. These contain the carbon dioxide that expands during the fermentation and subsequent baking.

hyDRATION

The ratio of water to flour in a given recipe.

kNEAD

The process of working a dough, by hand or in a stand mixer, to evenly blend the ingredients and to develop the gluten. kneading* by hand involves pushing and pulling the dough on a work surface, turning it and shaping* it to aerate the dough and help it form a glutinaceous network. As the structure changes, the dough becomes smoother and more elastic.

LEAVEN

To incorporate a rising agent—natural starter, yeast, baking powder, etc.—into a dough to make it ferment and rise. Natural leavens, such as sourdough starters, use natural “wild” yeasts in the dough to start the fermentation*.

POOLISh

A pre-ferment (starter) made with a mix of equal parts of water and flour. used in conjunction with fresh baker’s yeast.

PROOF/PROOFINg TIME

known as l’apprêt, this is the second stage of fermentation, which begins after the dough has been portioned and shaped, and continues until it is put in the oven. It is done at room temperature in a draft-free spot.

REFRESh

To keep a natural starter alive by feeding it with flour and water.

REST

To set a dough aside after kneading* or working. This allows the gluten*, which will tighten as the dough is worked, to relax.

SCORINg

The process of making shallow cuts or slashes, in various designs, along the surface of the dough. usually done just prior to baking. Scoring helps to control the way the bread rises as it bakes.

SEAM

The point at which the edges of the dough—both in a ball and a long shape—meet to form a closure, or seam.

ShAPINg

The process which gives the dough its form. Often done in two stages, but it is the second, more precise shaping, that creates the final appearance of the baked loaf.

SIMMER

To cook in liquid just below the boiling point, around 208°f (98°c). Small bubbles rise through the liquid and break the surface.

STALE

Over time, moisture is gradually lost from bread and it becomes stale. As it does so, the bread becomes hard and both aroma and flavor deteriorate.

STEAM INjECTION

A process of introducing water into an oven to create steam as the dough goes in to bake. This is achieved by splashing water onto a preheated baking sheet.

STEEP

To immerse and soak seeds or fruit (usually dried) in a liquid to soften and rehydrate them.

TOuRAgE

A term used in French patisserie, whereby butter is rolled out and folded into a dough to enrich and lighten the texture as it bakes.

wELL

A large hollow created in the center of a mound of flour (on a work surface or in a bowl) to contain liquid ingredients. The dry ingredients are gradually worked into the liquid, so as to create a smooth, well-blended paste.

glossary


308Index

INDEx

Aacidity, dough 30 air bubbles 30 all-purpose (plain) flour 15 anaerobic micro-organisms 28 apples starter 26 ash content, flour 15 ash goat cheese,

fougasse with 220, 220–1, 302 autolyse method 26

Bbacon bread rolls with lardons

& pecans 272, 273–5, 305 fougasse with lardons

226, 227, 302 bacteria, fermentation 24 bagels 138, 138–41, 297 baguettes 42, 54, 54–5, 293 organic baguette 148, 148–9, 298 petite baguette 66, 66–7, 293 poppy-seed baguettes 150, 150–1 pre-shaping 32 problems 45 sesame-seed baguettes 150, 150–1 shaping 36–7, 36–7 baker’s cloths 18 baker’s peel 64, 64–5, 293 baker’s yeast 16, 28 baking bread 42 baking stones 18, 42 bannetons 18 basil bread 216, 216–17, 301 baskets, proofing 18 batard 52, 52–3, 293 shaping 34, 35

benoitons, raisin 248, 249, 303 boule 48, 48–51, 293 bow tie bread 90, 91, 294 bowls 18 braided loaf 58, 62, 62–3, 293 bran loaf 110, 110–11, 295 bread chart 293–305 bread lames 18 bread ring 86, 86–9, 294 bread rolls with lardons

& pecans 272, 273–5, 305 breadsticks 206, 286, 286–9, 305 brioche brioche loaf 246, 246–7, 303 classic brioche 242, 243, 303

mini brioches 244, 244–5 problems 44, 44 broa 136, 136–7, 296 buckwheat flour buckwheat ciabatta

210, 210–11, 301 organic buckwheat bread

158, 158–9, 298 bulgur wheat pumpernickel 132, 132–5, 296 buns, sesame 142, 142–3, 297 butter brioche loaf 246, 246–7, 303 classic brioche 242, 243, 303 croissants 250–2, 250–3, 304 hazelnut & butter bread

172, 172–3, 299 pain au chocolat

254–6, 255–7, 304 pains aux raisins

264–6, 265–7, 304 walnut & butter bread

186, 186–9, 300

Ccandied orange peel green tea & orange loaf

176, 176–9, 299 orange bread

180, 180–1, 299 carbon dioxide 24, 28, 30, 38 cheese fougasse with ash goat cheese

220, 220–1, 302 fougasse with black & green

olives 222, 223–5, 302 fougasse with lardons

226, 227, 302 gorgonzola & walnut bread

174, 174–5, 299 pizza 228, 229–31, 302 chestnut flour bread, gluten-free

122, 122–3, 296 chevron, scoring dough 41 chocolate hazelnut & chocolate rolls

280, 281–3, 305 pain au chocolat

254–6, 255–7, 304 Viennese bread

236, 237–9, 303 ciabatta buckwheat ciabatta

210, 210–11, 301 mixed-seed ciabatta

208, 208–9, 301 plain ciabatta

202, 202–5, 301 pumpkin-seed ciabatta

212, 212–13, 301 round ciabatta 214, 214–15 classic brioche 242, 243, 303

Page numbers in italics refer to the illustrations


309 Index

classic organic bread 154, 154–7, 298

cooling bread 42 cornmeal broa 136, 136–7, 296 cornmeal loaf 96, 96–7, 295 gluten-free corn bread

120, 120–1, 296 couches 19 country loaf 108, 108–9, 295 couronne bread ring 86, 86–9, 294 crc (Culture Raisonée

et Controlée) standard 14, 15 crème fraîche fougasse with ash goat cheese

220, 220–1, 302 fougasse with lardons

226, 227, 302 croissants 250–2, 250–3, 304 cross shape, scoring dough 38 crosshatch, scoring dough 39 crowns, mixed fruit & nut

192, 192–5, 300 crust, problems 45 Culture Raisonée et Controlée

(crc) standard 14, 15 currants stone-ground bread with

currants 168, 168–9, 298 cuttlefish ink bread 198, 198–9, 300

Ddaisy loaf 76, 76–7, 294 dehydrated starter 16 digital probe thermometers 18 double slash, scoring dough 40 dough acidity 30 fermentation 24–31 final shaping 34–7, 34–7 freezing 34 kneading 20–3, 21–3 pre-shaping 32–3, 32–3 problems 45 proofing 30 rising 30 scoring 38, 38–41, 44, 44, 45 dough cutters 19 dough scrapers 18 dried fruit mixed fruit & nut crowns

192, 192–5, 300 organic stone-ground bread

with currants 168, 168–9, 298 pains aux raisins 264–6, 265–7, 304 raisin benoitons 248, 249, 303 walnut & raisin rolls

284, 284–5, 305 dry yeast 16

Eeggs brioche loaf 246, 246–7, 303 classic brioche 242, 243, 303 einkorn flour 15 organic einkorn bread

164, 164–5, 298 ekmek 130, 130–1, 296 electric stand mixers 19 kneading dough 23, 23 energy, kneading dough 20 epi 58, 60, 60–1, 293 pre-shaping 32 equipment 18–19, 18–19 ethanol 28

Ffancy loaves 58–62, 59–63, 293 farming, rational 14–15 fermentation 24–31 pre-fermentation methods 26 stages of 30 fermented dough method 26 ficelle 58–9, 59, 293 pre-shaping 32 fig bread 182, 182–3, 299 firm starter 24

“first mill” loaf 94, 94–5 flours 14–15 focaccia, rosemary 124, 124–7, 296 fougasse fougasse with ash goat cheese



226, 227, 302 four slashes, scoring dough 40 freezing dough 34 fresh baker’s yeast 16

gune gâche 64 gluten 15 gluten-free chestnut flour bread

122, 122–3, 296 gluten-free cornbread

120, 120–1, 296 goat cheese fougasse with ash goat cheese

220, 220–1, 302 golden raisins pains aux raisins

264–6, 265–7, 304 gorgonzola & walnut bread

174, 174–5, 299 grapes starter 26 green tea & orange loaf

176, 176–9, 299

grignettes 19 grissini 206, 288

hham pizza 228, 229–31, 302 hazelnuts hazelnut & butter bread

172, 172–3, 299 hazelnut & chocolate rolls

280, 281–3, 305 hedgehog cut, scoring dough 41 history, yeast bread 28 honey ekmek 130, 130–1, 296 honey bread 184, 184–5, 300 pumpernickel 132, 132–5, 296 husks, wheat 15

Iincising dough 38 ingredients 16

kkamut® flour 15, 102 kamut® & seaweed rolls

278, 278–9, 305 kamut® bread

100, 100–1, 103, 295 khorasan wheat flour see

kamut® flour kneading 20–3, 21–3

Llactic bacteria 24lardons bread rolls with lardons

& pecans 272, 273–5, 305 fougasse with lardons

226, 227, 302 levain liquide 16, 24–5 liquid sourdough starter 16, 24–5 long loaves storing 42 pre-shaping 32

Mmacatia bread 128, 128–9, 296 maslin loaf 116, 116–19, 296 measuring cups 19méteil 116 milk Paris buns 234, 235, 303 Pullman loaf 260, 260–1, 304 mini brioches 244, 244–5 mixed fruit & nut crowns

192, 192–5, 300 mixed-seed bread 98, 98–9, 295 mixed-seed ciabatta

208, 208–9, 301


310

mixers 18 kneading dough 23, 23 mixing bowls 19 molds 19

Nnaturally-leavened breads

see organic breads nicking dough 38 nuts mixed fruit & nut crowns

192, 192–5, 300 see also hazelnuts;

pecan nuts; walnuts

Ooil-enriched breads 201–31 basil bread 216, 216–17, 301 buckwheat ciabatta

210, 210–11, 301 fougasse with ash goat cheese



226, 227, 302 mixed-seed ciabatta

208, 208–9, 301 pizza 228, 229–31, 302 plain ciabatta 202, 202–5, 301 pumpkin-seed ciabatta

212, 212–13, 301 round ciabatta 214, 214–15 sun-dried tomato bread

218, 218–19, 302 olive oil 206, 206 see also oil-enriched breads olives fougasse with black & green

olives 222, 223–5, 302 orange-flower water green tea & orange loaf

176, 176–9, 299 orange bread 180, 180–1, 299 orange peel green tea & orange loaf

176, 176–9, 299 organic breads 147–69 classic organic bread

154, 154–7, 298 organic baguette

148, 148–9, 298 organic buckwheat bread

158, 158–9, 298 organic einkorn bread

164, 164–5, 298 organic spelt bread

160, 160–3, 298 organic stone-ground bread

152, 152–3, 298

organic stone-ground bread with currants 168, 168–9, 298

organic whole wheat bread 166, 167, 298

poppy-seed baguettes 150, 150–1 sesame-seed baguettes

150, 150–1 organic flours 14–15 ovens 42

Ppain au chocolat 254–6, 255–7, 304 pain de méteil 116 pains aux raisins 264–6, 265–7, 304 panini all’olio 206 pans 19 Pasteur, Louis 28 pastries

see sweet pastries & breads pastry cream 264pecan nuts bread rolls with lardons

& pecans 272, 273–5, 305 petite baguette 66, 66–7, 293 ph scale 30 pistachio loaf 262, 262–3 pistolets 276, 276–7, 305 pithivier, scoring dough 39 pizza 228, 229–31, 302 pizza stones 19, 42 plain flour 15 le pointage 24, 26 polka bread 56, 56–7, 293 scoring dough 39 poolish method 26 poppy seeds poppy-seed baguettes 150, 150–1 poppy-seed rolls 270, 271, 305 portemanteau 78, 79–81, 294 pre-fermentation methods 26 pre-shaping 32–3, 32–3 proofing 30 proofing baskets 18 Pullman loaf 260, 260–1, 304 pumpernickel 132, 132–5, 296 pumpkin-seed ciabatta

212, 212–13, 301

QQuinn, Bob 102

Rraisins pains aux raisins

264–6, 265–7, 304 raisin benoitons 248, 249, 303 walnut & raisin rolls

284, 284–5, 305 raspberries ekmek with dried raspberries

130, 131 rational farming 14–15 rising 24, 26, 30 rolls 269–89 bread rolls with lardons &

pecans 272, 273–5, 305 breadsticks 286, 286–9, 305 hazelnut & chocolate rolls

280, 281–3, 305 kamut® & seaweed rolls

278, 278–9, 305 Paris buns 234, 235, 303 pistolets 276, 276–7, 305 poppy-seed rolls 270, 271, 305 vanilla rolls 258, 259, 304 walnut & raisin rolls

284, 284–5, 305 rosemary focaccia 124, 124–7, 296 round ciabatta 214, 214–15 round loaves 42 shaping 34–5, 34–5 rustic loaf 68, 68–9, 294 rye flour bow tie bread 90, 91, 294 bran loaf 110, 110–11, 295 country loaf 108, 108–9, 295 couronne bread ring

86, 86–9, 294 daisy loaf 76, 76–7, 294 honey bread 184, 184–5, 300 maslin loaf 116, 116–19, 296 pumpernickel 132, 132–5, 296 raisin benoitons 248, 249, 303 rye bread 112, 112–15, 295 Swiss “cross” bread

144, 144–5, 297 walnut & raisin rolls

284, 284–5, 305 zigzag bread 84, 84–5, 294

SSaccharomyces cerevisiae 28 salt 16 sausage cut, scoring dough 41 scales 18 scoring dough 38, 38–41, 44, 44, 45 seaweed kamut® & seaweed rolls

278, 278–9, 305 seeds mixed-seed bread

98, 98–9, 295 mixed-seed ciabatta

208, 208–9, 301 pumpernickel 132, 132–5, 296 see also poppy seeds;

sesame seedssemolina bread 106, 106–7, 295 sesame seeds ekmek with black sesame

Index


311

seeds 130, 131 sesame buns 142, 142–3, 297 sesame-seed baguettes

150, 150–1 sesame-seed bread

196, 196–7, 300 shaping final shaping 34–7, 34–7 pre-shaping 32–3, 32–3 single slash, scoring dough 40 slashing dough 38, 40 sourdough starter,

fermentation 24–5 soy flour gluten-free chestnut flour

bread 122, 122–3, 296 specialty breads 93–145 bagels 138, 138–41, 297 bran loaf 110, 110–11, 295 broa 136, 136–7, 296 cornmeal loaf 96, 96–7, 295 country loaf 108, 108–9, 295 ekmek 130, 130–1, 296 “first mill” loaf 94, 94–5 gluten-free chestnut flour

bread 122, 122–3, 296 gluten-free corn bread

120, 120–1, 296 kamut® bread 100, 100–1, 103, 295 macatia bread 128, 128–9, 296 maslin loaf 116, 116–19, 296 mixed-seed bread 98, 98–9, 295 pumpernickel 132, 132–5, 296 rosemary focaccia

124, 124–7, 296 rye bread 112, 112–15, 295 semolina bread 106, 106–7, 295 sesame buns 142, 142–3, 297 Swiss “cross” bread

144, 144–5, 297 whole wheat bread

104, 104–5, 295 spelt flour 15 organic spelt bread

160, 160–3, 298 split loaf 74, 75, 294 square, scoring dough 39 starch 15 starters dehydrated starter 16 fermentation 24–5 liquid starter 16 steam 19, 42 stone-baked bread 42 stone-ground bread

152, 152–3, 298 stone-ground bread with

currants 168, 168–9, 298 storing bread 42 sugar bread 240, 240–1, 303

sugar syrup 264, 266 sun-dried tomato bread

218, 218–19, 302 sweet pastries & breads 233–67 brioche loaf 246, 246–7, 303 classic brioche 242, 243, 303 croissants 250–2, 250–3, 304 mini brioches 244, 244–5 pain au chocolat

254–6, 255–7, 304 pains aux raisins

264–6, 265–7, 304 Paris buns 234, 235 pistachio loaf 262, 262–3 Pullman loaf 260, 260–1, 304raisin benoitons 248, 249, 303 sugar bread 240, 240–1, 303 vanilla rolls 258, 259, 304 Viennese bread

236, 237–9, 303 swirl, scoring dough 39 Swiss “cross” bread 144, 144–5, 297

Ttabatiere 70, 70–3, 294 Tacoun, Norbert 128 tea green tea & orange loaf

176, 176–9, 299 temperatures fermentation 24, 30 kneading dough 20 oven 42 thermometers 18 tomatoes pizza 228, 229–31, 302 sun-dried tomato bread

218, 218–19, 302 traditional breads 47–91 baguettes 54, 54–5, 293 baker’s peel 64, 64–5, 293 batard 52, 52–3, 293 boule 48, 48–51, 293 bow tie bread 90, 91, 294 braided loaf 58, 62, 62–3, 293 couronne bread ring

86, 86–9, 294 daisy loaf 76, 76–7, 294 epi 58, 60, 60–1, 293 ficelle 58–9, 59, 293 petite baguette 66, 66–7, 293 polka bread 56, 56–7, 293 portemanteau 78, 79–81, 294 rustic loaf 68, 68–9, 294 split loaf 74, 75, 294 tabatiere 70, 70–3, 294 the twist 82, 82–3, 294 zigzag bread 84, 84–5, 294 turmeric bread 190, 190–1, 300 the twist 82, 82–3, 294

uunbleached flours 15

Vvanilla rolls 258, 259, 304 Viennese bread 236, 237–9, 303

wwalnuts gorgonzola & walnut bread

174, 174–5, 299 walnut & butter bread

186, 186–9, 300 walnut & raisin rolls

284, 284–5, 305 water 16 weighing scales 19 wheat composition of 15 flour 14 kamut® wheat 102 wheat germ 15 wheat bran bran loaf 110, 110–11, 295 whole wheat bread

104, 104–5, 166, 167, 295, 298 “wild” yeasts 24, 28

yyeast 16, 28, 28–9 fermentation 24 pre-fermentation 26 “wild” yeasts 24, 28 yeast pre-ferment method 26

zzigzag bread 84, 84–5, 294

Index


The Larousse Book of Bread

Éric Kayser

Step-by-step home baking recipes from France’s foremost

culinary resource, Larousse, and Parisian master baker Éric

Kayser.

The Larousse Book of Bread features more than 80 home baking

recipes for breads and pastries from two of France’s most trusted

authorities. From traditional Boule and Cob and specialty Ryes

and Multigrains, to gluten-free Organic Sour Doughs and Spelts

and sweet Brioches, Kayser’s easy-to-follow recipes feature

detailed instructions and step-by-step photography.

No matter if you are creating quick and simple Farmhouse Breads

or gourmet treats like Croissants and Viennese Chocolate Bread,

with its unique structure and a comprehensive guide to

techniques, ingredients and equipment, The Larousse Book of

Bread is the ideal baking resource for both home cooks and

professionals.

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