TheMaineWoodsBy

HenryDavidThoreau

THEMAINEWOODS

KTAADN

Onthe31stofAugust1846IleftConcordinMassachusettsforBangorandthebackwoodsofMainebywayof therailroadandsteamboat intendingtoaccompanyarelativeofmineengagedinthelumbertradeinBangorasfarasa dam on the West Branch of the Penobscot in which property he wasinterested From this place which is about one hundred miles by the riverabove Bangor thirty miles from the Houlton military road and five milesbeyondthelastloghutIproposedtomakeexcursionstoMountKtaadnthesecond highestmountain inNewEngland about thirtymiles distant and tosomeof the lakes of thePenobscot either aloneorwith such company as Imightpickup there It isunusual to findacampso far in thewoodsat thatseason when lumbering operations have ceased and I was glad to availmyselfofthecircumstanceofagangofmenbeingemployedthereatthattimeinrepairingtheinjuriescausedbythegreatfreshetinthespringThemountainmaybeapproachedmoreeasilyanddirectlyonhorsebackandon foot fromthenortheastsidebytheAroostookroadandtheWassataquoikRiverbutinthatcaseyouseemuchlessofthewildernessnoneofthegloriousriverandlakesceneryandhavenoexperienceof thebatteauand theboatmans life I

was fortunate also in the season of the year for in the summermyriads ofblack flies mosquitoes and midges or as the Indians call them no-see-emsmaketravelinginthewoodsalmostimpossiblebutnowtheirreignwasnearlyoverKtaadn whose name is an Indian word signifying highest land was firstascendedbywhitemen in1804 ItwasvisitedbyProfessor JWBaileyofWestPoint in1836byDrCharlesTJackson theStateGeologist in1837andbytwoyoungmenfromBostonin1845AllthesehavegivenaccountsoftheirexpeditionsSinceIwastheretwoorthreeotherpartieshavemadetheexcursion and told their stories Besides these very few even amongbackwoodsmenandhuntershaveeverclimbed itand itwillbea long timebeforethetideoffashionabletravelsetsthatwayThemountainousregionoftheStateofMainestretchesfromneartheWhiteMountainsnortheasterlyonehundredandsixtymilestotheheadoftheAroostookRiverandisaboutsixtymileswideThewildorunsettledportionisfarmoreextensiveSothatsomehoursonlyof travel in thisdirectionwill carry thecurious to thevergeofaprimitive forestmore interesting perhaps on all accounts than theywouldreachbygoingathousandmileswestwardThenextforenoonTuesdaySeptember1 Istartedwithmycompanion inabuggy from Bangor for up river expecting to be overtaken the next daynightatMattawamkeagPointsomesixtymilesoffbytwomoreBangoreanswhohaddecidedtojoinusinatriptothemountainWehadeachaknapsackor bag filledwith such clothing and articles aswere indispensable andmycompanioncarriedhisgunWithinadozenmilesofBangorwepassedthroughthevillagesofStillwaterandOldtownbuilt at the falls of thePenobscotwhich furnish theprincipalpower bywhich theMainewoods are converted into lumber Themills arebuiltdirectlyoverandacrosstheriverHereisaclosejamahardrubatallseasonsandthentheoncegreentreelongsincewhiteIneednotsayasthedriven snow but as a driven log becomes lumber merely Here your inchyour two and your three inch stuff begin to be andMr Sawyermarks offthosespaceswhichdecide thedestinyofsomanyprostrate forestsThroughthissteelriddlemoreorlesscoarseisthearrowyMaineforestfromKtaadnandChesuncookandthehead-watersoftheStJohnrelentlesslysiftedtillitcomesoutboardsclapboards lathsandshinglessuchas thewindcan takestillperchancetobeslitandslitagaintillmengetasizethatwillsuitThinkhow stood the white pine tree on the shore of Chesuncook its branchessoughingwith the fourwinds and every individual needle trembling in thesunlightmdashthink how it stands with it nowmdashsold perchance to the NewEnglandFriction-MatchCompanyTherewerein1837asIreadtwohundredand fifty sawmills on the Penobscot and its tributaries above Bangor the

greater part of them in this immediate neighborhood and they sawed twohundredmillionsoffeetofboardsannuallyTothisistobeaddedthelumberoftheKennebecAndroscogginSacoPassamaquoddyandotherstreamsNowonder that we hear so often of vessels which are becalmed off our coastbeingsurroundedaweekatatimebyfloatinglumberfromtheMainewoodsThemissionofmenthereseemstobelikesomanybusydemonstodrivetheforestalloutofthecountryfromeverysolitarybeaverswampandmountain-sideassoonaspossibleAtOldtownwewalkedintoabatteau-manufactoryThemakingofbatteauxisquite a business here for the supply of the Penobscot RiverWe examinedsomeon the stocksThey are light and shapely vessels calculated for rapidand rockystreamsand tobecarriedover longportagesonmens shouldersfromtwentytothirtyfeetlongandonlyfourorfourandahalfwidesharpatbothendslikeacanoethoughbroadestforwardonthebottomandreachingsevenor eight feetover thewater inorder that theymay slipover rocksasgently as possible They are made very slight only two boards to a sidecommonlysecuredtoafewlightmapleorotherhard-woodkneesbutinwardareoftheclearestandwidestwhitepinestuffofwhichthereisagreatwasteon account of their form for thebottom is left perfectly flat not only fromside to side but from end to end Sometimes they become hogging evenafterlonguseandtheboatmenthenturnthemoverandstraightenthembyaweightateachendTheytoldusthatoneworeoutintwoyearsorofteninasingle tripontherocksandsoldforfromfourteentosixteendollarsTherewassomethingrefreshingandwildlymusicaltomyearsintheverynameofthewhitemanscanoeremindingmeofCharlevoixandCanadianVoyageursThebatteauisasortofmongrelbetweenthecanoeandtheboatafur-tradersboatTheferryheretookuspasttheIndianislandAswelefttheshoreIobservedashort shabby washerwoman-looking Indianmdashthey commonly have thewoebegonelookofthegirlthatcriedforspiltmilkmdashjustfromupriverlandon the Oldtown side near a grocery and drawing up his canoe take out abundleofskinsinonehandandanemptykegorhalf-barrelintheotherandscrambleupthebankwiththemThispicturewilldotoputbeforetheIndianshistorythatisthehistoryofhisextinctionIn1837therewerethreehundredandsixty-twosoulsleftofthistribeTheislandseemeddesertedto-dayyetIobservedsomenewhousesamongtheweather-stainedonesasifthetribehadstill a design upon life but generally they have a very shabby forlorn andcheerlesslookbeingallbacksideandwoodshednothomesteadsevenIndianhomesteads but instead of home or abroad-steads for their life is domi autmilitiaeligathomeoratwarornowrathervenatusthatisahuntingandmostof the latter The church is the only trim-looking building but that is notAbenaki thatwasRomes doingsGoodCanadian itmay be but it is poor

IndianThesewereonceapowerful tribePoliticsareall theragewith themnowIeventhoughtthatarowofwigwamswithadanceofpowwowsandaprisonertorturedatthestakewouldbemorerespectablethanthisWelandedinMilfordandrodealongontheeastsideofthePenobscothavingamoreorlessconstantviewoftheriverandtheIndianislandsinitfortheyretainall theislandsasfarupasNicketowat themouthoftheEastBranchThey are generally well-timbered and are said to be better soil than theneighboring shoresThe river seemed shallowand rocky and interruptedbyrapids ripplingandgleaming in the sunWepausedamoment to seea fishhawkdive for a fish down straight as an arrow from a great height but hemissed his prey this time It was theHoulton road onwhichwewere nowtraveling over which some troops were marched once towards Mars HillthoughnottoMarsfieldasitprovedItisthemainalmosttheonlyroadinthesepartsasstraightandwellmadeandkeptinasgoodrepairasalmostanyyouwillfindanywhereEverywherewesawsignsofthegreatfreshetmdashthishouse standing awry and that where it was not founded but where it wasfoundatanyratethenextdayandthatotherwithawaterloggedlookasifitwere still airing and drying its basement and logs with everybodys marksuponthemandsometimesthemarksoftheirhavingservedasbridgesstrewnalong the road We crossed the Sunkhaze a summery Indian name theOlemmonPassadumkeagandotherstreamswhichmakeagreatershowonthemapthantheynowdidontheroadAtPassadumkeagwefoundanythingbutwhatthenameimpliesmdashearnestpoliticianstowitmdashwhiteonesImeanmdashon the alert to know how the electionwas likely to gomenwho talkedrapidlywithsubduedvoiceandasortoffactitiousearnestnessyoucouldnothelp believing hardlywaiting for an introduction one on each side of yourbuggy endeavoring to say much in little for they see you hold the whipimpatiently but always saying little in much Caucuses they have had itseemsandcaucuses theyare tohaveagainmdashvictoryanddefeatSomebodymaybeelectedsomebodymaynotOnemanatotalstrangerwhostoodbyourcarriageintheduskactuallyfrightenedthehorsewithhisasseverationsgrowingmoresolemnlypositiveastherewaslessinhimtobepositiveaboutSoPassadumkeagdidnotlookonthemapAtsundownleavingtheriverroadawhile for shortnesswewentbywayofEnfieldwherewe stopped for thenightThislikemostofthelocalitiesbearingnamesonthisroadwasaplacetonamewhich in themidstof theunnamedandunincorporatedwildernesswas to make a distinction without a difference it seemed to me HerehoweverInoticedquiteanorchardofhealthyandwell-grownappletreesinabearingstate itbeing theoldest settlershouse in this regionbutallnaturalfruitandcomparativelyworthlessforwantofagrafterAndsoitisgenerallylower down the river It would be a good speculation as well as a favorconferred on the settlers for aMassachusetts boy to go down there with a

trunkfullofchoicescionsandhisgraftingapparatusinthespringThenextmorningwedrovealongthroughahighandhillycountryinviewofCold-StreamPondabeautifullakefourorfivemileslongandcameintotheHoultonroadagainherecalledthemilitaryroadatLincolnforty-fivemilesfromBangorwherethereisquiteavillageforthiscountrymdashtheprincipaloneaboveOldtownLearningthattherewereseveralwigwamshereononeoftheIndianislandsweleftourhorseandwagonandwalkedthroughtheforesthalfamile to the river to procure a guide to themountain Itwas not till afterconsiderable search that we discovered their habitationsmdashsmall huts in aretired place where the scenery was unusually soft and beautiful and theshoreskirtedwithpleasantmeadowsandgracefulelmsWepaddledourselvesacrosstotheislandsideinacanoewhichwefoundontheshoreNearwherewelandedsatanIndiangirltenortwelveyearsoldonarockinthewaterinthe sun washing and humming or moaning a song meanwhile It was anaboriginal strain A salmon-spear made wholly of wood lay on the shoresuchastheymighthaveusedbeforewhitemencameIthadanelasticpieceofwoodfastenedtoonesideofitspointwhichslippedoverandcloseduponthefishsomewhatlikethecontrivanceforholdingabucketattheendofawell-poleAswewalkeduptothenearesthouseweweremetbyasallyofadozenwolfish-looking dogs which may have been lineal descendants from theancient Indian dogswhich the first voyageurs describe as theirwolves IsupposetheywereTheoccupantsoonappearedwithalongpoleinhishandwithwhichhebeatoff thedogswhileheparleyedwithusmdashastalwartbutdullandgreasy-lookingfellowwhotoldusinhissluggishwayinanswertoourquestionsasifitwerethefirstseriousbusinesshehadtodothatdaythattherewereIndiansgoinguprivermdashheandoneothermdashto-daybeforenoonAndwhowastheotherLouisNeptunewholivesinthenexthouseWellletus go over and see Louis together The same doggish reception and LouisNeptune makes his appearancemdasha small wiry man with puckered andwrinkled face yet he seemed the chief man of the two the same as IrememberedwhohadaccompaniedJacksontothemountainin37Thesamequestions were put to Louis and the same information obtained while theotherIndianstoodbyItappearedthattheyweregoingtostartbynoonwithtwo canoes to go up to Chesuncook to huntmoosemdashto be gone amonthWell Louis suppose you get to the Point (to the Five Islands just belowMattawamkeag)tocampwewalkonuptheWestBranchtomorrowmdashfourofusmdashandwaitforyouatthedamorthissideYouovertakeusto-morrowornextdayandtakeusintoyourcanoesWestopforyouyoustopforusWepay you for your trouble Ye replied Louis may be you carry someprovisionforallmdashsomeporkmdashsomebreadmdashandsopayHesaidMesuregetsomemooseandwhenIaskedifhethoughtPomolawouldletusgoupheansweredthatwemustplantonebottleofrumonthetophehadplanted

goodmanyandwhenhelookedagaintherumwasallgoneHehadbeenuptwo or three times he had planted lettermdashEnglish German French etcThesemenwereslightlycladinshirtandpantaloonslikelaborerswithusinwarmweatherTheydidnotinviteusintotheirhousesbutmetusoutsideSowelefttheIndiansthinkingourselvesluckytohavesecuredsuchguidesandcompanionsTherewereveryfewhousesalongtheroadyettheydidnotaltogetherfailasif the lawbywhichmen are dispersedover theglobewere a very stringentone and not to be resistedwith impunity or for slight reasons TherewereeventhegermsofoneortwovillagesjustbeginningtoexpandThebeautyofthe road itself was remarkable The various evergreensmany of which arerarewithusmdashdelicateandbeautifulspecimensofthelarcharbor-vitaeligball-spruce and fir-balsam froma few inches tomany feet in heightmdashlined itssides in some places like a long front yard springing up from the smoothgrass-plotswhichuninterruptedlyborder itandaremadefertilebyitswashwhile it was but a step on either hand to the grim untrodden wildernesswhosetangledlabyrinthoflivingfallenanddecayingtreesonlythedeerandmoose thebear andwolf caneasilypenetrateMoreperfect specimens thananyfront-yardplotcanshowgrewthere togracethepassageof theHoultonteamsAbout noonwe reached theMattawamkeag fifty-sixmiles fromBangor bythewaywehadcomeandputupata frequentedhousestillon theHoultonroadwhere theHoulton stage stopsHerewas a substantial covered bridgeovertheMattawamkeagbuiltIthinktheysaidsomeseventeenyearsbeforeWehaddinnermdashwherebythewayandevenatbreakfastaswellassupperatthepublic-housesonthisroadthefrontrankiscomposedofvariouskindsofsweetcakesinacontinuouslinefromoneendofthetabletotheotherIthinkImaysafelysaythattherewasarowoftenoradozenplatesofthiskindset before us two here To account for which they say that when thelumbererscomeoutofthewoodstheyhaveacravingforcakesandpiesandsuchsweetthingswhichtherearealmostunknownandthisisthesupplytosatisfy that demand The supply is always equal to the demand and thesehungrymen think agooddeal of getting theirmoneysworthNodoubt thebalanceofvictualsisrestoredbythetimetheyreachBangormdashMattawamkeagtakesofftherawedgeWelloverthisfrontrankIsayyoucomingfromthesweet cake side with a cheap philosophic indifference though it may behave to assaultwhat there is behindwhich I donot by anymeansmean toinsinuateisinsufficientinquantityorqualitytosupplythatotherdemandofmennotfromthewoodsbutfromthetownsforvenisonandstrongcountryfareAfterdinnerwestrolleddowntothePointformedbythejunctionofthetworiverswhichissaidtobethesceneofanancientbattlebetweentheEastern Indians and the Mohawks and searched there carefully for relics

thoughthemenatthebar-roomhadneverheardofsuchthingsbutwefoundonly some flakesof arrowhead stone somepointsof arrowheadsone smallleadenbulletandsomecoloredbeadsthelasttobereferredperhapstoearlyfur-traderdaysTheMattawamkeagthoughwidewasamereriversbedfullofrocksandshallowsatthistimesothatyoucouldcrossitalmostdry-shodinbootsandIcouldhardlybelievemycompanionwhenhetoldmethathehadbeen fifty or sixty miles up it in a batteau through distant and still uncutforests A batteau could hardly find a harbor now at its mouth Deer andcaribouorreindeeraretakenhereinthewinterinsightofthehouseBeforeourcompanionsarrivedwerodeonuptheHoultonroadsevenmilestoMolunkuswhere theAroostook road comes into it andwhere there is aspaciouspublichouseinthewoodscalledtheMolunkusHousekeptbyoneLibbeywhich lookedas if ithad itshall fordancingand formilitarydrillsTherewasnootherevidenceofmanbutthishugeshinglepalaceinthispartoftheworld but sometimes even this is filledwith travelers I looked off thepiazza round thecornerof thehouseup theAroostookroadonwhich therewas no clearing in sight There was a man just adventuring upon it thisevening in a rude original what youmay call Aroostook wagonmdashamereseatwithawagonswungunderitafewbagsonitandadogasleeptowatchthem He offered to carry a message for us to anybody in that countrycheerfullyIsuspectthatifyoushouldgototheendoftheworldyouwouldfindsomebodytheregoingfartherasifjuststartingforhomeatsundownandhavingalastwordbeforehedroveoffHeretoowasasmalltraderwhomIdidnotseeatfirstwhokeptastoremdashbutnogreatstorecertainlymdashinasmallboxoverthewaybehindtheMolunkussign-postItlookedlikethebalance-boxofapatenthay-scalesAsforhishousewecouldonlyconjecturewherethat was he may have been a boarder in theMolunkus House I saw himstanding in his shopdoormdashhis shopwas so small that if a traveler shouldmakedemonstrationsofenteringinhewouldhavetogooutbythebackwayandconferwithhiscustomerthroughawindowabouthisgoodsinthecellarormoreprobablybespokenandyetonthewayIshouldhavegoneinforIfelt a real impulse to trade if I had not stopped to consider what wouldbecomeofhimThedaybeforewehadwalked intoashopoveragainstaninnwherewestoppedthepunybeginningoftradewhichwouldgrowatlastinto a firm copartnership in the future townor citymdashindeed itwas alreadySomebody amp Co I forget who The woman came forward from thepenetraliaof theattachedhouse for SomebodyampCowas in theburningand she sold us percussion-caps canaleacutes and smooth and knew their pricesandqualitiesandwhichthehunterspreferredHerewasalittleofeverythingin a small compass to satisfy thewants and the ambition of thewoodsmdashastockselectedwithwhatpainsandcareandbroughthomeinthewagon-boxor a corner of the Houlton team but there seemed to me as usual a

preponderance of childrens toysmdashdogs to bark and cats to mew andtrumpetstoblowwherenativestherehardlyareyetAsifachildbornintotheMainewoodsamongthepineconesandcedarberriescouldnotdowithoutsuchasugar-manorskipping-jackastheyoungRothschildhasIthinkthattherewasnotmorethanonehouseontheroadtoMolunkusorforsevenmilesAtthatplacewegotoverthefenceintoanewfieldplantedwithpotatoeswherethelogswerestillburningbetweenthehillsandpullingupthe vines found good-sized potatoes nearly ripe growing like weeds andturnipsmixedwiththemThemodeofclearingandplantingistofellthetreesandburnoncewhatwillburnthencutthemupintosuitablelengthsrollintoheapsandburnagainthenwithahoeplantpotatoeswhereyoucancomeatthe ground between the stumps and charred logs for a first crop the ashessufficingformanureandnohoeingbeingnecessarythefirstyearInthefallcutrollandburnagainandsoontillthelandisclearedandsoonitisreadyforgrainandtobelaiddownLetthosetalkofpovertyandhardtimeswhowillinthetownsandcitiescannottheemigrantwhocanpayhisfaretoNewYorkorBostonpay fivedollarsmore togetheremdashIpaid threeall told formypassagefromBostontoBangortwohundredandfiftymilesmdashandbeasrich as he pleases where land virtually costs nothing and houses only thelaborofbuildingandhemaybeginlifeasAdamdidIfhewillstillrememberthe distinction of poor and rich let him bespeak him a narrower houseforthwithWhenwereturnedtotheMattawamkeagtheHoultonstagehadalreadyputupthereandaProvincemanwasbetrayinghisgreennesstotheYankeesbyhisquestionsWhyProvincemoneywontpasshereatparwhenStatesmoneyisgoodatFrederictonmdashthoughthisperhapswassensibleenoughFromwhatIsawthenitappearsthattheProvincemanwasnowtheonlyrealJonathanorrawcountrybumpkinleftsofarbehindbyhisenterprisingneighborsthathedidntknowenough toput aquestion to themNopeoplecan longcontinueprovincialincharacterwhohavethepropensityforpoliticsandwhittlingandrapid traveling which the Yankees have and who are leaving the mothercountrybehindin thevarietyof theirnotionsandinventionsThepossessionand exercise of practical talent merely are a sure and rapid means ofintellectualcultureandindependenceThe lasteditionofGreenleafsMapofMainehungon thewallhereandaswehadnopocket-mapwe resolved to trace amapof the lake country Sodipping awad of tow into the lampwe oiled a sheet of paper on the oiledtable-clothand ingoodfaith tracedwhatweafterwardsascertainedtobealabyrinth of errors carefully following the outlines of the imaginary lakeswhich the map contains The Map of the Public Lands of Maine andMassachusettsistheonlyoneIhaveseenthatatalldeservesthenameItwas

whilewewere engaged in this operation that our companions arrivedTheyhadseentheIndiansfireontheFiveIslandsandsoweconcludedthatallwasrightEarlythenextmorningwehadmountedourpacksandpreparedforatrampuptheWestBranchmycompanionhavingturnedhishorseouttopastureforaweekor tendays thinking thatabiteof freshgrassanda tasteof runningwater would do him as much good as backwoods fare and new countryinfluences hismasterLeaping over a fencewebegan to follow an obscuretrailup thenorthernbankof thePenobscotTherewasnowno road furthertheriverbeingtheonlyhighwayandbuthalfadozenloghutsconfinedtoitsbanks to be met with for thirty miles On either hand and beyond was awhollyuninhabitedwilderness stretching toCanadaNeitherhorsenorcownorvehicleofanykindhadeverpassedoverthisgroundthecattleandthefewbulkyarticleswhichtheloggersusebeinggotupinthewinterontheiceand down again before it breaks up The evergreenwoods had a decidedlysweetandbracingfragrancetheairwasasortofdiet-drinkandwewalkedonbuoyantly in Indian file stretchingour legsOccasionally therewas a smallopeningonthebankmadeforthepurposeoflog-rollingwherewegotasightoftherivermdashalwaysarockyandripplingstreamTheroaroftherapidsthenoteofawhistlerduckontheriverofthejayandchickadeearoundusandofthepigeonwoodpeckerintheopeningswerethesoundsthatweheardThiswaswhatyoumightcallabran-newcountrytheonlyroadswereofNaturesmaking and the few houses were camps Here then one could no longeraccuseinstitutionsandsocietybutmustfrontthetruesourceofevilThere are three classes of inhabitants who either frequent or inhabit thecountrywhichwehadnowentered first the loggerswho forapartof theyear thewinter and spring are far themost numerous but in the summerexceptafewexplorersfortimbercompletelydesertitsecondthefewsettlersIhavenamedtheonlypermanentinhabitantswholiveonthevergeofitandhelp raise supplies for the former third the hunters mostly Indians whorangeoveritintheirseasonAttheendofthreemileswecametotheMattaseunkstreamandmillwheretherewasevenarudewoodenrailroadrunningdowntothePenobscotthelastrailroadweweretoseeWecrossedonetractonthebankoftheriverofmorethan a hundred acres of heavy timberwhich had just been felled and burntoverandwasstillsmokingOurtraillaythroughthemidstofitandwaswell-nigh blotted out The trees lay at full length four or five feet deep andcrossingeachotherinalldirectionsallblackascharcoalbutperfectlysoundwithin stillgoodfor fuelor for timber soon theywouldbecut into lengthsand burnt againHerewere thousands of cords enough to keep the poor ofBoston andNewYork amply warm for a winter which only cumbered the

ground and were in the settlers way And the whole of that solid andinterminable forest is doomed to be gradually devoured thus by fire likeshavingsandnomanbewarmedbyitAtCrockerslog-hutatthemouthofSalmon River seven miles from the Point one of the party commenceddistributingastoreofsmallcentpicture-booksamongthechildren to teachthem to read and also newspapersmore or less recent among the parentsthan which nothing can bemore acceptable to a backwoods people It wasreally an important item in our outfit and at times the only currency thatwould circulate Iwalked throughSalmonRiverwithmy shoeson it beinglowwaterbutnotwithoutwettingmyfeetAfewmiles fartherwecame toMarmHowardsattheendofanextensiveclearingwherethereweretwoorthreeloghutsinsightatonceoneontheoppositesideoftheriverandafew graves even surrounded by a wooden paling where already the rudeforefathersofahamletlieandathousandyearshenceperchancesomepoetwillwritehisElergyinaCountryChurchyardTheVillageHampdensthemute inglorious Miltons and Cromwells guiltless of their countrysbloodwereyetunbornPerchanceinthiswildspottherewillbelaidSomeheartoncepregnantwithcelestialfireHandsthattherodofempiremighthaveswayedOrwakedtoecstasythelivinglyreThenexthousewasFiskstenmilesfromthePointatthemouthoftheEastBranchopposite to the islandNicketowor theForks the last of the Indianislands I am particular to give the names of the settlers and the distancessinceeveryloghutinthesewoodsisapublichouseandsuchinformationisofno little consequence to thosewhomayhaveoccasion to travel thiswayOurcourseherecrossedthePenobscotandfollowedthesouthernbankOneof the party who entered the house in search of some one to set us overreported a very neat dwelling with plenty of books and a new wife justimportedfromBostonwhollynewtothewoodsWefoundtheEastBranchalargeandrapidstreamatitsmouthandmuchdeeperthanitappearedHavingwith somedifficultydiscovered the trail againwekeptup the south sideoftheWestBranchormainriverpassingbysomerapidscalledRock-Ebeemethe roar of which we heard through the woods and shortly after in thethickest of the wood some empty loggers camps still new which wereoccupied thepreviouswinterThoughwesawa fewmoreafterwards IwillmakeoneaccountserveforallTheseweresuchhousesas the lumberersofMainespend thewinter in in thewildernessTherewere thecampsand thehovels for the cattle hardly distinguishable except that the latter had nochimneyThesecampswereabout twenty feet longby fifteenwidebuilt oflogsmdashhemlock cedar spruce or yellow birchmdashone kind alone or all

togetherwith the bark on two or three large ones first one directly aboveanotherandnotched togetherat theends to theheightof threeor four feetthenofsmallerlogsrestingupontransverseonesattheendseachofthelastsuccessively shorter than the other to form the roof The chimney was anoblongsquareholeinthemiddlethreeorfourfeetindiameterwithafenceoflogsashighas theridgeThe intersticeswerefilledwithmossand theroofwas shingled with long and handsome splints of cedar or spruce or pineriftedwithasledgeandcleaverThefireplacethemostimportantplaceofallwasinshapeandsizelikethechimneyanddirectlyunderitdefinedbyalogfenceorfenderonthegroundandaheapofashesafootortwodeepwithinwithsolidbenchesofsplit logs runninground itHere thefireusuallymeltsthesnowanddriestherainbeforeitcandescendtoquenchitThefadedbedsofarbor-vitaelig leavesextendedunder theeavesoneitherhandTherewas theplace for thewater-pail pork-barrel andwash-basin and generally a dingypackofcardsleftonalogUsuallyagooddealofwhittlingwasexpendedonthelatchwhichwasmadeofwoodintheformofanirononeThesehousesaremadecomfortablebythehugefireswhichcanbeaffordednightanddayUsually thesceneryabout themisdrearandsavageenoughandtheloggerscamp is as completely in the woods as a fungus at the foot of a pine in aswampnooutlookbuttotheskyoverheadnomoreclearingthanismadebycuttingdownthetreesofwhichitisbuiltandthosewhicharenecessaryforfuelIfonlyitbewellshelteredandconvenienttohisworkandnearaspringhewastesnothoughtontheprospectTheyareveryproperforesthousesthestemsof the trees collected together andpileduparoundaman tokeepoutwindandrainmdashmadeoflivinggreenlogshangingwithmossandlichenandwith thecurls and fringesof theyellowbirchbark anddrippingwith resinfresh andmoist and redolent of swampy odorswith that sort of vigor andperennialness even about them that toadstools suggest The loggers fareconsists of tea molasses flour pork (sometimes beef) and beans A greatproportion of the beans raised inMassachusetts find their market here OnexpeditionsitisonlyhardbreadandporkoftenrawsliceuponslicewithteaorwaterasthecasemaybeThe primitive wood is always and everywhere damp and mossy so that ItraveledconstantlywiththeimpressionthatIwasinaswampandonlywhenitwasremarkedthatthisorthattractjudgingfromthequalityofthetimberonitwouldmakeaprofitableclearingwasIremindedthatifthesunwereletinitwouldmakeadryfieldlikethefewIhadseenatonceThebestshodforthemostparttravelwithwetfeetIfthegroundwassowetandspongyatthisthe dryest part of a dry season what must it be in the spring The woodshereaboutsaboundedinbeechandyellowbirchofwhichlastthereweresomevery large specimens also spruce cedar fir andhemlockbutwe sawonlythe stumpsof thewhitepinehere someof themofgreat size thesehaving

been already culled out being the only treemuch sought after even as lowdownas thisOnlya littlespruceandhemlockbesidehadbeen loggedhereThe Eastern wood which is sold for fuel in Massachusetts all comes frombelowBangorItwasthepinealonechieflythewhitepinethathadtemptedanybutthehuntertoprecedeusonthisrouteWaites farm thirteen miles from the Point is an extensive and elevatedclearingfromwhichwegotafineviewoftheriverripplingandgleamingfarbeneathusMycompanionshadformerlyhadagoodviewofKtaadnandtheothermountainsherebutto-dayitwassosmokythatwecouldseenothingofthem We could overlook an immense country of uninterrupted foreststretching away up the East Branch toward Canada on the north andnorthwest and toward the Aroostook valley on the northeast and imaginewhatwildlifewasstirringinitsmidstHerewasquiteafieldofcornforthisregionwhosepeculiardryscentweperceivedathirdofamileoffbeforewesawitEighteenmiles fromthePointbroughtus insightofMcCauslinsorUncleGeorges as hewas familiarly called bymy companions towhomhewaswellknownwhereweintendedtobreakourlongfastHishousewasinthemidstofanextensiveclearingorintervaleatthemouthoftheLittleSchoodicRiveron theoppositeornorthbankof thePenobscotSowecollectedonapointoftheshorethatwemightbeseenandfiredourgunasasignalwhichbroughtouthisdogs forthwith and thereafter theirmasterwho indue timetookusacrossinhisbatteauThisclearingwasboundedabruptlyonallsidesbuttheriverbythenakedstemsoftheforestasifyouweretocutonlyafewfeet square in the midst of a thousand acres of mowing and set down athimble thereinHehadawholeheavenandhorizon tohimselfand thesunseemed to be journeying over his clearing only the livelong day Here weconcluded to spend the night and wait for the Indians as there was nostopping-placesoconvenientaboveHehadseennoIndianspassandthisdidnotoftenhappenwithouthisknowledgeHethoughtthathisdogssometimesgavenoticeoftheapproachofIndianshalfanhourbeforetheyarrivedMcCauslinwasaKennebecmanofScotchdescentwhohadbeenawatermantwenty-two years and had driven on the lakes and headwaters of thePenobscotfiveorsixspringsinsuccessionbutwasnowsettledheretoraisesuppliesforthelumberersandforhimselfHeentertainedusadayortwowithtrueScotchhospitalityandwouldacceptnorecompenseforitAmanofadrywitandshrewdnessandageneralintelligencewhichIhadnotlookedforinthe backwoods In fact the deeper you penetrate into thewoods themoreintelligentandinonesenselesscountrifieddoyoufindtheinhabitantsforalways the pioneer has been a traveler and to some extent a man of theworld and as the distanceswithwhich he is familiar are greater so is his

informationmoregeneralandfarreachingthanthevillagersIfIweretolookforanarrowuninformedandcountrifiedmindasopposedtotheintelligenceandrefinementwhicharethoughttoemanatefromcitiesitwouldbeamongtherustyinhabitantsofanold-settledcountryonfarmsallrunoutandgonetoseedwithlife-everlastinginthetownsaboutBostonevenonthehigh-roadinConcordandnotinthebackwoodsofMaineSupperwasgotbeforeoureyes in theamplekitchenbyafirewhichwouldhaveroastedanoxmanywhole logs fourfeet longwereconsumedtoboilour tea-kettlemdashbirchorbeechormaple thesamesummerandwinterandthedishesweresoonsmokingonthetablelatethearm-chairagainstthewallfromwhichoneof thepartywasexpelledThearmsof thechairformedtheframe on which the table rested and when the round top was turned upagainstthewallitformedthebackofthechairandwasnomoreinthewaythanthewall itselfThiswenoticedwastheprevailingfashionintheseloghousesinordertoeconomizeinroomTherewerepiping-hotwheatencakestheflourhavingbeenbroughtuptheriverinbatteauxmdashnoIndianbreadfortheupperpartofMaineitwillberememberedisawheatcountrymdashandhameggs and potatoes andmilk and cheese the produce of the farm and alsoshad and salmon tea sweetened with molasses and sweet cakes incontradistinction to the hot cakes not sweetened the one white the otheryellowtowindupwithSuchwefoundwastheprevailingfareordinaryandextraordinary along this riverMountain cranberries (VacciniumVitis-Idaeliga)stewed and sweetened were the common dessert Everything here was inprofusion and the best of its kind Butter was in such plenty that it wascommonlyusedbeforeitwassaltedtogreasebootswithIn the night we were entertained by the sound of rain-drops on the cedarsplintswhichcovered theroofandawakedthenextmorningwithadroportwoinoureyes Ithadset inforastormandwemadeupourmindsnot toforsakesuchcomfortablequarterswiththisprospectbutwaitforIndiansandfair weather It rained and drizzled and gleamed by turns the livelong dayWhatwedidtherehowwekilledthetimewouldperhapsbeidletotellhowmanytimeswebutteredourbootsandhowoftenadrowsyonewasseen tosidleoff to thebedroomWhen itheldup I strolledupanddown thebankandgatheredtheharebellandcedarberrieswhichgrewthereorelsewetriedbyturnsthelong-handledaxeonthelogsbeforethedoorTheaxe-helvesherewere made to chop standing on the logmdasha primitive log of coursemdashandwerethereforenearlyafootlongerthanwithusOnewhilewewalkedoverthe farm and visited his well-filled barns withMcCauslin There were oneothermanandtwowomenonlyhereHekepthorsescowsoxenandsheepIthinkhe said thathewas the first tobringaplowanda cowso far andhemighthaveaddedthelastwithonlytwoexceptionsThepotato-rothadfoundhimout here too the previous year and got half or two thirds of his crop

though the seedwas of his own raising Oats grass and potatoeswere hisstaplesbutheraisedalsoafewcarrotsandturnipsandalittlecornforthehens for this was all that he dared risk for fear that it would not ripenMelons squashes sweet corn beans tomatoes andmany other vegetablescouldnotberipenedthereThe very few settlers along this stream were obviously tempted by thecheapnessofthelandmainlyWhenIaskedMcCauslinwhymoresettlersdidnotcomeinheansweredthatonereasonwastheycouldnotbuythelanditbelonged to individuals or companieswhowere afraid that theirwild landswouldbesettledandsoincorporatedintotownsandtheybetaxedforthembut to settlingon theStates land therewasno suchhindranceForhis ownparthewantednoneighborsmdashhedidntwish to seeany roadbyhishouseNeighborseventhebestwereatroubleandexpenseespeciallyonthescoreofcattleandfencesTheymightliveacrosstheriverperhapsbutnotonthesamesideThechickensherewereprotectedby thedogsAsMcCauslinsaidTheoldonetookitupfirstandshetaughtthepupandnowtheyhadgotitintotheirheadsthatitwouldntdotohaveanythingofthebirdkindonthepremisesAhawk hovering over was not allowed to alight but barked off by the dogscirclingunderneath and a pigeon or a yellow-hammer as they called thepigeonwoodpeckeronadead limborstumpwas instantlyexpelled Itwasthemainbusinessof their day andkept themconstantly comingandgoingOnewouldrushoutofthehouseontheleastalarmgivenbytheotherWhenitrainedhardestwereturnedtothehouseandtookdownatractfromthe shelfTherewas the Wandering Jew cheap edition and fineprint theCriminalCalendarandParishsGeographyandflashnovelstwoorthreeUnderthepressureofcircumstanceswereadalittleintheseWithsuchaidthe press is not so feeble an engine after all This housewhichwas a fairspecimen of those on this river was built of huge logs which peeped outeverywhere andwerechinkedwithclayandmoss It contained fouror fiveroomsTherewerenosawedboardsorshinglesorclapboardsaboutitandscarcelyanytoolbuttheaxehadbeenusedinitsconstructionThepartitionswere made of long clapboard-like splints of spruce or cedar turned to adelicatesalmon-colorbythesmokeTheroofandsideswerecoveredwiththesame instead of shingles and clapboards and some of a much thicker andlargersizewereusedforthefloorThesewereallsostraightandsmooththattheyansweredthepurposeadmirablyandacarelessobserverwouldnothavesuspectedthattheywerenotsawedandplanedThechimneyandhearthwereofvastsizeandmadeofstoneThebroomwasafewtwigsofarbor-vitaeligtiedtoastickandapolewassuspendedoverthehearthclosetotheceilingtodrystockingsandclothesonInoticedthatthefloorwasfullofsmalldingyholes

asifmadewithagimletbutwhichwereinfactmadebythespikesnearlyaninchlongwhichthelumbererswearintheirbootstopreventtheirslippingonwetlogsJustaboveMcCauslinsthereisarockyrapidwherelogsjaminthespringandmanydriversaretherecollectedwhofrequenthishouseforsuppliestheseweretheirtrackswhichIsawAtsundownMcCauslinpointedawayovertheforestacrosstherivertosignsoffairweatheramidthecloudsmdashsomeeveningrednessthereForeventherethe points of compass held and there was a quarter of the heavensappropriatedtosunriseandanothertosunsetThe next morning the weather proving fair enough for our purpose wepreparedtostartandtheIndianshavingfaileduspersuadedMcCauslinwhowasnotunwillingtorevisitthescenesofhisdrivingtoaccompanyusintheirstead intending to engage one other boatman on thewayA strip of cottonclothforatentacoupleofblanketswhichwouldsufficeforthewholepartyfifteenpoundsofhardbreadtenpoundsofclearporkandalittleteamadeup Uncle Georges pack The last three articles were calculated to beprovisionenoughforsixmenforaweekwithwhatwemightpickupAtea-kettle a frying-pan and an axe to be obtained at the last house wouldcompleteouroutfitWeweresoonoutofMcCauslinsclearingandintheevergreenwoodsagainTheobscuretrailmadebythetwosettlersabovewhicheventhewoodmanissometimes puzzled to discern ere long crossed a narrow open strip in thewoods overrun with weeds called the Burnt Land where a fire had ragedformerlystretchingnorthwardnineor tenmiles toMillinocketLakeAt theendof threemileswereachedShadPondorNoliseemackanexpansionoftheriverHodgetheAssistantStateGeologistwhopassedthroughthisonthe25th of June 1837 says We pushed our boat through an acre ormore ofbuck-beans which had taken root at the bottom and bloomed above thesurfaceinthegreatestprofusionandbeautyThomasFowlershouseisfourmiles from McCauslins on the shore of the pond at the mouth of theMillinocket River and eightmiles from the lake of the same name on thelatter stream This lake affords a more direct course to Ktaadn but wepreferred to follow the Penobscot and the Pamadumcook lakes FowlerwasjustcompletinganewloghutandwassawingoutawindowthroughthelogsnearlytwofeetthickwhenwearrivedHehadbeguntopaperhishousewithsprucebark turned insideoutwhichhadagoodeffect andwas inkeepingwiththecircumstancesInsteadofwaterwegothereadraughtofbeerwhichitwasallowedwouldbebetterclearandthinbutstrongandstringentasthecedarsapItwasasifwesuckedattheveryteatsofNaturespine-cladbosominthesepartsmdashthesapofallMillinocketbotanycommingledmdashthetopmostmost fantastic and spiciest sprays of the primitive wood and whatever

invigoratingandstringentgumoressenceitaffordedsteepedanddissolvedinitmdashalumberersdrinkwhichwouldacclimateandnaturalizeamanatoncemdashwhichwouldmakehimseegreenandifhesleptdreamthatheheardthewindsoughamongthepinesHerewasafifeprayingtobeplayedonthroughwhichwebreathedafewtunefulstrainsmdashbroughthithertotamewildbeastsAs we stood upon the pile of chips by the door fish hawks were sailingoverheadandhereoverShadPondmightdailybewitnessedthetyrannyofthebaldeagleoverthatbirdTompointedawayoverthelaketoabaldeaglesnestwhichwasplainlyvisiblemorethanamileoffonapinehighabovethesurroundingforestandwasfrequentedfromyeartoyearbythesamepairandheldsacredbyhimTherewerethesetwohousesonlytherehislowhutandtheeaglesairycart-loadoffagotsThomasFowlertoowaspersuadedtojoinusfortwomenwerenecessarytomanagethebatteauwhichwassoontobeourcarriageandthesemenneededtobecoolandskillfulforthenavigationofthePenobscotTomspackwassoonmadeforhehadnotfartolookforhiswatermans boots and a red flannel shirt This is the favorite color withlumbermenandredflannelisreputedtopossesssomemysteriousvirtuestobe most healthful and convenient in respect to perspiration In every gangtherewillbea largeproportionof redbirdsWe tookhereapoorand leakybatteauandbegantopoleuptheMillinockettwomilestotheelderFowlersinordertoavoidtheGrandFallsofthePenobscotintendingtoexchangeourbatteau there for a better The Millinocket is a small shallow and sandystreamfullofwhatItooktobelamprey-eelsorsuckersnestsandlinedwithmusquash-cabinsbut free from rapids according toFowler exceptingat itsoutletfromthelakeHewasatthistimeengagedincuttingthenativegrassmdashrush-grass andmeadow-clover as he called itmdashon themeadows and smalllowislandsof thisstreamWenoticedflattenedplaces in thegrassoneitherside where he said a moose had laid down the night before adding thattherewerethousandsinthesemeadowsOldFowlersontheMillinocketsixmilesfromMcCauslinsandtwenty-fourfrom thePoint is the lasthouseGibsonson theSowadnehunk is theonlyclearing above but that had proved a failure and was long since desertedFowleristheoldestinhabitantofthesewoodsHeformerlylivedafewmilesfrom here on the south side of theWest Branch where he built his housesixteenyearsago thefirsthousebuiltabove theFiveIslandsHereournewbatteauwastobecarriedoverthefirstportageoftwomilesroundtheGrandFalls of the Penobscot on a horse-sled made of saplings to jump thenumerousrocksinthewaybutwehadtowaitacoupleofhoursforthemtocatchthehorseswhichwerepasturedatadistanceamidthestumpsandhadwanderedstillfartheroffThelastofthesalmonforthisseasonhadjustbeencaughtandwerestillfreshinpicklefromwhichenoughwasextractedtofillouremptykettleandsograduateourintroductiontosimplerforestfareThe

week before they had lost nine sheep here out of their first flock by thewolvesThe surviving sheep came round the house and seemed frightenedwhichinducedthemtogoandlookfortherestwhentheyfoundsevendeadandlaceratedandtwostillaliveTheselasttheycarriedtothehouseandasMrsFowlersaidtheyweremerelyscratchedinthethroatandhadnomorevisiblewoundthanwouldbeproducedbytheprickofapinSheshearedoffthe wool from their throats andwashed them and put on some salve andturnedthemoutbut inafewmomentstheyweremissingandhadnotbeenfoundsinceInfacttheywereallpoisonedandthosethatwerefoundswelledup at once so that they saved neither skin nor wool This realized the oldfables of the wolves and the sheep and convinced me that that ancienthostility still existedVerily the shepherd-boydidnot need to sound a falsealarm this time There were steel traps by the door of various sizes forwolves otter and bears with large claws instead of teeth to catch in theirsinewsWolvesarefrequentlykilledwithpoisonedbaitAt length afterwe had dined here on the usual backwoods fare the horsesarrivedandwehauledourbatteauoutofthewaterandlashedittoitswickercarriageand throwing inourpackswalkedonbefore leaving theboatmenanddriverwhowasTomsbrothertomanagetheconcernTheroutewhichledthroughthewildpasturewherethesheepwerekilledwasinsomeplacestheroughestevertraveledbyhorsesoverrockyhillswherethesledbouncedandslidalonglikeavesselpitchinginastormandonemanwasasnecessarytostandatthesterntopreventtheboatfrombeingwreckedasahelmsmaninthe roughest sea The philosophy of our progress was something like thiswhentherunnersstruckarockthreeorfourfeethighthesledbouncedbackandupwardsatthesametimebutasthehorsesneverceasedpullingitcamedown on the top of the rock and so we got over This portage probablyfollowedthetrailofanancientIndiancarryroundthesefallsBytwooclockwewhohadwalkedonbeforereachedtheriverabovethefallsnotfarfromthe outlet ofQuakishLake andwaited for the batteau to comeupWehadbeenherebutashorttimewhenathunder-showerwasseencomingupfromthewestoverthestillinvisiblelakesandthatpleasantwildernesswhichweweresoeagertobecomeacquaintedwithandsoontheheavydropsbegantopatterontheleavesaroundusIhadjustselectedtheprostratetrunkofahugepinefiveorsixfeetindiameterandwascrawlingunderitwhenluckilytheboatarrivedItwouldhaveamusedashelteredmantowitnessthemannerinwhichitwasunlashedandwhirledoverwhilethefirstwaterspoutburstuponusItwasnosoonerinthehandsoftheeagercompanythanitwasabandonedtothefirstrevolutionaryimpulseandtogravity toadjust itandtheymighthavebeen seenall stooping to its shelter andwrigglingunder like somanyeels before itwas fairlydepositedon thegroundWhen allwereunderwepropped up the lee side and busied ourselves therewhittling thole-pins for

rowingwhenweshouldreach the lakesandmadethewoodsringbetweentheclapsofthunderwithsuchboat-songsaswecouldrememberThehorsesstood sleek and shining with the rain all drooping and crestfallen whiledelugeafterdelugewashedoverusbutthebottomofaboatmaybereliedonforatightroofAtlengthaftertwohoursdelayatthisplaceastreakoffairweatherappeared in thenorthwestwhitherourcoursenow laypromisingasereneeveningforourvoyageandthedriverreturnedwithhishorseswhilewemadehastetolaunchourboatandcommenceourvoyageingoodearnestThereweresixofus including the twoboatmenWithourpacksheapedupnear the bows and ourselves disposed as baggage to trim the boat withinstructionsnot tomoveincaseweshouldstrikearockmorethansomanybarrels of porkwe pushed out into the first rapid a slight specimen of thestreamwehad tonavigateWithUncleGeorge in the stern andTom in thebowseachusingasprucepoleabouttwelvefeetlongpointedwithironandpolingonthesamesideweshotuptherapidslikeasalmonthewaterrushingand roaring around so that only a practiced eye could distinguish a safecourse or tell whatwas deepwater andwhat rocks frequently grazing thelatterononeorbothsideswithahundredasnarrowescapesasevertheArgohadinpassingthroughtheSymplegadesIwhohadhadsomeexperienceinboatinghadneverexperiencedanyhalfsoexhilaratingbeforeWewereluckytohaveexchangedourIndianswhomwedidnotknowforthesemenwhotogetherwithTomsbrotherwerereputedthebestboatmenontheriverandwere at once indispensable pilots and pleasant companions The canoe issmallermoreeasilyupsetandsoonerwornoutandtheIndianissaidnottobesoskillfulinthemanagementofthebatteauHeisforthemostpartlesstobe reliedon andmoredisposed to sulks andwhimsTheutmost familiaritywith dead streams or with the ocean would not prepare a man for thispeculiarnavigationandthemostskillfulboatmananywhereelsewouldherebeobligedtotakeouthisboatandcarryroundahundredtimesstillwithgreatrisk as well as delay where the practiced batteau-man poles up withcomparative ease and safety The hardy voyageur pushes with incredibleperseveranceandsuccessquiteuptothefootofthefallsandthenonlycarriesroundsomeperpendicularledgeandlaunchesagaininThetorrentssmoothnessereitdashbelowtostrugglewiththeboilingrapidsaboveTheIndianssaythattheriveronceranbothwaysonehalfupandtheotherdownbutthatsincethewhitemancame it all runs down and now they must laboriously pole their canoesagainstthestreamandcarrythemovernumerousportagesInthesummerallstoresmdashthegrindstoneandtheplowofthepioneerflourporkandutensilsforthe explorermdashmustbe conveyedup the river inbatteaux andmanya cargoandmanyaboatmanislostinthesewatersInthewinterhoweverwhichis

very equable and long the ice is the great highway and the loggers teampenetrates toChesuncookLake and stillhigherup even twohundredmilesaboveBangor Imagine the solitary sled-track running farup into the snowyand evergreen wilderness hemmed in closely for a hundred miles by theforest and again stretching straight across the broad surfaces of concealedlakesWeweresooninthesmoothwateroftheQuakishLakeandtookourturnsatrowingandpaddlingacrossitItisasmallirregularbuthandsomelakeshutinonallsidesbytheforestandshowingnotracesofmanbutsomelowboominadistantcovereservedforspringuseThespruceandcedaronitsshoreshungwith gray lichens looked at a distance like the ghosts of treesDuckswere sailing here and there on its surface and a solitary loon like amorelivingwavemdashavitalspoton the lakessurfacemdashlaughedandfrolickedandshoweditsstraightlegforouramusementJoeMerryMountainappearedinthenorthwestasifitwerelookingdownonthislakeespeciallyandwehadourfirstbutapartialviewofKtaadnitssummitveiledincloudslikeadarkisthmusinthatquarterconnectingtheheavenswiththeearthAftertwomilesof smooth rowing across this lake we found ourselves in the river againwhich was a continuous rapid for one mile to the dam requiring all thestrengthandskillofourboatmentopoleupitThis dam is a quite important and expensivework for this countrywhithercattleandhorsescannotpenetrate in thesummer raising thewholeriver tenfeet and flooding as they said some sixty square miles by means of theinnumerable lakes with which the river connects It is a lofty and solidstructure with sloping piers some distance above made of frames of logsfilled with stones to break the ice Here every log pays toll as it passesthroughthesluicesWe filed into the rude loggers campat thisplace suchas IhavedescribedwithoutceremonyandthecookatthatmomentthesoleoccupantatoncesetaboutpreparingteaforhisvisitorsHisfireplacewhichtherainhadconvertedinto a mud-puddle was soon blazing again and we sat down on the logbenchesaroundittodryusOnthewell-flattenedandsomewhatfadedbedsofarbor-vitaelig leaveswhichstretchedoneitherhandunder theeavesbehinduslay an odd leaf of the Bible some genealogical chapter out of the OldTestament and half buried by the leaves we found Emersons Address onWest India Emancipationwhich had been left here formerly by one of ourcompanyandhadmadetwoconvertstotheLibertypartyhereasIwastoldalso an odd number of theWestminster Review for 1834 and a pamphletentitled History of the Erection of theMonument on the Grave ofMyronHollyThiswas the readableor readingmatter in a lumberers camp in theMainewoodsthirtymilesfromaroadwhichwouldbegivenuptothebears

in a fortnight These things were well thumbed and soiled This gang washeaded by one John Morrison a good specimen of a Yankee and wasnecessarily composed ofmen not bred to the business of dam-building butwho were jacks-at-all-trades handy with the axe and other simpleimplements andwell skilled inwoodandwatercraftWehadhotcakes forour supperevenherewhiteas snowballsbutwithoutbutter and thenever-failing sweet cakes with which we filled our pockets foreseeing that weshould not soonmeetwith the like again Such delicate puffballs seemed asingulardietforbackwoodsmenTherewasalsoteawithoutmilksweetenedwithmolassesAndsoexchangingawordwithJohnMorrisonandhisgangwhen we had returned to the shore and also exchanging our batteau for abetter stillwemadehaste to improve the little daylight that remainedThiscamp exactly twenty-ninemiles fromMattawamkeag Point by thewaywehad come and about one hundred from Bangor by the river was the lasthumanhabitationofanykindinthisdirectionBeyondtherewasnotrailandthe river and lakes by batteaux and canoes was considered the onlypracticablerouteWewereaboutthirtymilesbytheriverfromthesummitofKtaadn which was in sight though not more than twenty perhaps in astraightlineIt being about the full of the moon and a warm and pleasant evening wedecidedtorowfivemilesbymoonlight totheheadof theNorthTwinLakelest thewindshouldriseonthemorrowAfteronemileofriverorwhattheboatmen call thoroughfaremdashfor the river becomes at length only theconnecting link between the lakesmdashand some slight rapid which had beenmostlymadesmoothwaterbythedamweenteredtheNorthTwinLakejustafter sundown and steered across for the river thoroughfare four milesdistant This is a noble sheet of water where one may get the impressionwhichanewcountryandalakeofthewoodsarefittedtocreateTherewasthesmokeofno loghutnorcampofanykind togreetusstill lesswasanyloverofnatureormusingtravelerwatchingourbatteaufromthedistanthillsnoteventheIndianhunterwasthereforherarelyclimbsthembuthugstheriverlikeourselvesNofacewelcomedusbutthefinefantasticspraysoffreeandhappyevergreen treeswavingoneaboveanother in theirancienthomeAtfirsttheredcloudshungoverthewesternshoreasgorgeouslyasifoveracity and the lake lay open to the light with even a civilized aspect as ifexpectingtradeandcommerceandtownsandvillasWecoulddistinguishtheinlet to theSouthTwinwhich is said tobe the largerwhere the shorewasmisty and blue and it was worth the while to look thus through a narrowopeningacrosstheentireexpanseofaconcealedlaketoitsownyetmoredimanddistantshoreTheshoresrosegentlytorangesoflowhillscoveredwithforestsand though in fact themostvaluablewhite-pine timberevenaboutthis lake hadbeen culledout thiswouldneverhavebeen suspectedby the

voyagerTheimpressionwhichindeedcorrespondedwiththefactwasasifwewereuponahightable-landbetweentheStatesandCanadathenorthernsideofwhich isdrainedby theSt JohnandChaudiegravere the southernby thePenobscotandKennebecTherewasnoboldmountainousshoreaswemighthaveexpectedbutonlyisolatedhillsandmountainsrisinghereandtherefromtheplateauThecountryisanarchipelagooflakesmdashthelake-countryofNewEnglandTheirlevelsvarybutafewfeetandtheboatmenbyshortportagesorbynoneatallpasseasilyfromonetoanotherTheysaythatatveryhighwaterthePenobscotandtheKennebecflowintoeachotheroratanyratethatyoumay liewith your face in the one and your toes in the other Even thePenobscotandStJohnhavebeenconnectedbyacanalsothatthelumberoftheAllegashinsteadofgoingdowntheStJohncomesdownthePenobscotand the Indians tradition that the Penobscot once ran both ways for hisconvenienceisinonesensepartiallyrealizedto-dayNoneofourpartybutMcCauslinhadbeenabove this lakesowe trusted tohimtopilotusandwecouldnotbutconfesstheimportanceofapilotonthesewatersWhileitisriveryouwillnoteasilyforgetwhichwayisup-streambutwhenyouentera lake the river iscompletely lost andyouscan thedistantshores invain to findwhere it comes inAstranger is for the timeat leastlostandmustsetaboutavoyageofdiscoveryfirstofalltofindtheriverTofollowthewindingsoftheshorewhenthelakeistenmilesorevenmoreinlengthandofanirregularitywhichwillnotsoonbemappedisawearisomevoyageandwillspendhistimeandhisprovisionsTheytellastoryofagangofexperiencedwoodmensenttoalocationonthisstreamwhowerethuslostin thewilderness of lakes They cut theirway through thickets and carriedtheirbaggageandtheirboatsoverfromlaketolakesometimesseveralmilesThey carried intoMillinocket Lake which is on another stream and is tenmiles square and contains a hundred islands They explored its shoresthoroughlyand thencarried intoanother andanother and itwasaweekoftoilandanxietybefore they found thePenobscotRiveragainand then theirprovisionswereexhaustedandtheywereobligedtoreturnWhileUncleGeorgesteeredforasmallislandneartheheadofthelakenowjust visible like a speck on the water we rowed by turns swiftly over itssurfacesingingsuchboatsongsaswecouldrememberTheshoresseemedatanindefinitedistanceinthemoonlightOccasionallywepausedinoursingingandrestedonouroarswhilewelistenedtohearifthewolveshowledforthisis a common serenade and my companions affirmed that it was the mostdismal and unearthly of sounds butwe heard none this time Ifwe did nothearhoweverwedidlistennotwithoutareasonableexpectationthatatleastI have to tellmdashonly some utterly uncivilized big-throated owl hooted loudanddismallyinthedrearandboughywildernessplainlynotnervousabouthissolitarylifenorafraidtoheartheechoesofhisvoicethereWeremembered

alsothatpossiblymooseweresilentlywatchingusfromthedistantcovesorsomesurlybearortimidcaribouhadbeenstartledbyoursingingItwaswithnewemphasisthatwesangtheretheCanadianboatsongmdashRowbrothersrowthestreamrunsfastTherapidsarenearandthedaylightspastwhich describes precisely our own adventure and was inspired by theexperienceof a similar kindof lifemdashfor the rapidswere ever near and thedaylightlongpastthewoodsonshorelookeddimandmanyanUtawastidehereemptiedintothelakeWhyshouldweyetoursailunfurlThereisnotabreaththebluewavetocurlButwhenthewindblowsofftheshoreOhsweetlywellrestourwearyoarUtawastidethistremblingmoonShallseeusfloatoerthysurgessoonAt last we glided past the green isle which had been our landmark alljoininginthechorusasifbythewaterylinksofriversandoflakeswewereabout to float over unmeasured zones of earth bound on unimaginableadventuresmdashSaintofthisgreenislehearourprayersOhgrantuscoolheavensandfavoringairsAboutnineoclockwereachedtheriverandranourboatintoanaturalhavenbetween some rocks and drew her out on the sand This camping-groundMcCauslinhadbeenfamiliarwithinhislumberingdaysandhenowstruckitunerringlyin themoonlightandweheardthesoundof therillwhichwouldsupply uswith coolwater emptying into the lakeThe first businesswas tomakeafireanoperationwhichwasalittledelayedbythewetnessofthefuelandthegroundowingtotheheavyshowersoftheafternoonThefireisthemaincomfortofthecampwhetherinsummerorwinterandisaboutasampleatone seasonas at another It is aswell for cheerfulness as forwarmthanddrynessItformsonesideofthecamponebrightsideatanyrateSomeweredispersed to fetch in dead trees and boughs whileUncleGeorge felled thebirchesandbeecheswhichstoodconvenientandsoonwehadafiresometenfeet longby threeor four highwhich rapidlydried the sandbefore itThiswascalculated toburnallnightWenextproceeded topitchour tentwhichoperationwasperformedbystickingourtwospike-polesintothegroundinaslantingdirectionabouttenfeetapartforraftersandthendrawingourcottonclothoverthemandtyingitdownattheendsleavingitopeninfrontshed-

fashionButthiseveningthewindcarriedthesparksontothetentandburneditSowehastilydrewupthebatteaujustwithintheedgeofthewoodsbeforethefireandproppinguponesidethreeorfourfeethighspreadthetentontheground to lieon andwith the cornerof ablanket orwhatmoreor lesswecouldgettoputoveruslaydownwithourheadsandbodiesundertheboatandourfeetandlegsonthesandtowardthefireAtfirstwelayawaketalkingofour course and findingourselves in soconvenient aposture for studyingthe heavenswith themoon and stars shining in our faces our conversationnaturally turned upon astronomy and we recounted by turns the mostinterestingdiscoveries in that scienceBut at lengthwe composedourselvesseriouslytosleepItwasinterestingwhenawakenedatmidnighttowatchthegrotesqueandfiend-likeformsandmotionsofsomeoneofthepartywhonotbeingabletosleephadgotupsilentlytoarousethefireandaddfreshfuelforachangenowstealthilyluggingadeadtreefromoutthedarkandheavingitonnowstirringuptheemberswithhisforkortiptoeingabouttoobservethestarswatchedperchancebyhalftheprostratepartyinbreathlesssilencesomuchthemoreintensebecausetheywereawakewhileeachsupposedhisneighborsoundasleepThusarousedItoobroughtfreshfueltothefireandthenrambledalongthesandyshoreinthemoonlighthopingtomeetamoosecome down to drink or else a wolf The little rill tinkled the louder andpeopledall thewildernessformeandtheglassysmoothnessofthesleepinglake laving the shores of a newworldwith the dark fantastic rocks risinghereandtherefromitssurfacemadeascenenoteasilydescribedIthasleftsuchan impressionof sternyetgentlewildnessonmymemoryaswillnotsoonbeeffacedNotfarfrommidnightwewereoneafteranotherawakenedbyrainfallingonourextremitiesandaseachwasmadeawareofthefactbycoldorwethedrewalongsighandthendrewuphislegsuntilgraduallywehad all sidled round from lying at right angleswith theboat till our bodiesformed an acute angle with it and were wholly protected When next weawokethemoonandstarswereshiningagainandthereweresignsofdawnintheeastIhavebeenthusparticularinordertoconveysomeideaofanightinthewoodsWehadsoonlaunchedandloadedourboatandleavingourfireblazingwereoffagainbeforebreakfastThelumberersrarelytroublethemselvestoputouttheirfiressuchisthedampnessoftheprimitiveforestandthisisonecausenodoubtofthefrequentfiresinMaineofwhichwehearsomuchonsmokydaysinMassachusettsTheforestsareheldcheapafterthewhitepinehasbeenculled out and the explorers and hunters pray for rain only to clear theatmosphereofsmokeThewoodsweresowetto-dayhoweverthattherewasno danger of our fire spreading After poling up half a mile of river orthoroughfarewerowedamileacrossthefootofPamadumcookLakewhichisthenamegivenonthemaptothiswholechainoflakesasiftherewasbut

one though theyare ineach instancedistinctlyseparatedbya reachof theriverwithitsnarrowandrockychannelanditsrapidsThislakewhichisoneof the largest stretched northwest ten miles to hills and mountains in thedistanceMcCauslinpointedtosomedistantandasyetinaccessibleforestsofwhitepineonthesidesofamountaininthatdirectionTheJoeMerryLakeswhichlaybetweenusandMooseheadonthewestwererecentlyiftheyarenot still surrounded by some of the best timbered land in the State Byanother thoroughfare we passed into Deep Cove a part of the same lakewhichmakesuptwomilestowardthenortheastandrowingtwomilesacrossthisbyanothershortthoroughfareenteredAmbejijisLakeAt the entrance to a lakewe sometimes observedwhat is technically calledfencing-stuff or the unhewn timbers of which booms are formed eithersecuredtogetherinthewaterorlaidupontherocksandlashedtotreesforspringuseButitwasalwaysstartlingtodiscoversoplainatrailofcivilizedmanthereIrememberthatIwasstrangelyaffectedwhenwewerereturningbythesightofaring-boltwelldrilledintoarockandfastenedwithleadattheheadofthissolitaryAmbejijisLakeItwaseasytoseethatdrivinglogsmustbeanexcitingaswellasarduousanddangerous business All winter long the logger goes on piling up the treeswhichhehastrimmedandhauledinsomedryravineattheheadofastreamandtheninthespringhestandsonthebankandwhistlesforRainandThawreadytowringtheperspirationoutofhisshirttoswellthetidetillsuddenlywithawhoopandhalloofromhimshuttinghiseyesasiftobidfarewelltothe existing state of things a fair proportion of his winters work goesscramblingdown the country followedbyhis faithfuldogsThawandRainand Freshet andWind thewhole pack in full cry toward theOronoMillsEverylogismarkedwiththeownersnamecutinthesapwoodwithanaxeorboredwithanaugersodeepasnottobewornoffinthedrivingandyetnotsoastoinjurethetimberanditrequiresconsiderableingenuitytoinventnewand simple marks where there are so many owners They have quite analphabet of their own which only the practiced can read One of mycompanionsreadofffromhismemorandumbooksomemarksofhisownlogsamong which there were crosses belts crows feet girdles etc as Ymdashgirdlemdashcrowfoot and various other devices When the logs have run thegauntletofinnumerablerapidsandfallseachonitsownaccountwithmoreor less jamming and bruising those bearing various owners marks beingmixeduptogethermdashsinceallmusttakeadvantageofthesamefreshetmdashtheyare collected together at the heads of the lakes and surrounded by a boomfenceof floating logs toprevent their beingdispersedby thewind andarethustowedalltogetherlikeaflockofsheepacrossthelakewherethereisnocurrentbyawindlassorboom-headsuchaswesometimessawstandingonanislandorheadlandand ifcircumstancespermitwith theaidofsailsand

oarsSometimesnotwithstanding thelogsaredispersedovermanymilesoflakesurface ina fewhoursbywindsandfreshetsand thrownupondistantshoreswherethedrivercanpickuponlyoneortwoatatimeandreturnwiththemtothethoroughfareandbeforehegetshisflockwellthroughAmbejijisor Pamadumcook he makes many a wet and uncomfortable camp on theshore He must be able to navigate a log as if it were a canoe and be asindifferent to cold and wet as a muskrat He uses a few efficient toolsmdashalevercommonlyofrockmaplesixorsevenfeetlongwithastoutspikeinitstrongly ferruled on and a long spike-pole with a screw at the end of thespiketomakeitholdTheboysalongshorelearntowalkonfloatinglogsascityboyson sidewalksSometimes the logs are thrownupon rocks in suchpositions as to be irrecoverable but by another freshet as high or they jamtogether at rapids and falls and accumulate in vast piles which the drivermuststartattheriskofhislifeSuchisthelumberbusinesswhichdependsonmanyaccidentsastheearlyfreezingoftheriversthattheteamsmaygetupinseasonasufficientfreshetinthespringtofetchthelogsdownandmanyothersIquoteMichauxonLumberingontheKennebecthenthesourceofthebest white pine lumber carried to England The persons engaged in thisbranch of industry are generally emigrants from New Hampshire In thesummer they unite in small companies and traverse these vast solitudes inevery direction to ascertain the places in which the pines abound Aftercuttingthegrassandconvertingitintohayforthenourishmentofthecattletobeemployed in their labor they returnhome In thebeginningof thewintertheyentertheforestsagainestablishthemselvesinhutscoveredwiththebarkofthecanoe-birchorthearbor-vitaeligandthoughthecoldissointensethatthemercurysometimesremainsforseveralweeksfrom40degto50deg[Fahr]belowthe point of congelation they persevere with unabated courage in theirworkAccording toSpringer thecompanyconsistsofchoppers swampersmdashwhomakeroadsmdashbarkerandloader teamsterandcookWhenthe treesarefelledtheycutthemintologsfromfourteentoeighteenfeetlongandbymeansoftheircattlewhichtheyemploywithgreatdexteritydragthemtotheriverandafterstampingonthemamarkofpropertyrollthemonitsfrozenbosom At the breaking of the ice in the spring they float down with thecurrent The logs that are not drawn the first year adds Michaux areattacked by large worms which form holes about two lines in diameter ineverydirectionbut if strippedof their bark theywill remainuninjured forthirtyyearsAmbejijisthisquietSundaymorningstruckmeasthemostbeautifullakewehadseen It is said tobeoneof thedeepestWehad the fairestviewof JoeMerryDoubleTopandKtaadnfromitssurfaceThesummitofthelatterhadasingularlyflattable-landappearancelikeashorthighwaywhereademigodmightbeletdowntotakeaturnortwoinanafternoontosettlehisdinnerWe

rowedamileandahalf tonear theheadof thelakeandpushingthroughafieldof lily-pads landed to cookourbreakfast by the sideof a large rockknown to McCauslin Our breakfast consisted of tea with hard-bread andpork and fried salmonwhichwe atewith forks neatlywhittled from aldertwigswhichgrewthereoffstripsofbirch-barkforplatesTheteawasblackteawithoutmilktocolororsugartosweetenitandtwotindipperswereourteacupsThisbeverageisasindispensabletotheloggersastoanygossipingoldwomeninthelandandtheynodoubtderivegreatcomfortfromitHerewas the site of an old loggers camp remembered by McCauslin nowovergrown with weeds and bushes In the midst of a dense underwood wenoticedawholebrickonarockinasmallruncleanandredandsquareasinabrick-yardwhichhadbeenbroughtthusfarformerlyfortampingSomeofusafterwardregrettedthatwehadnotcarriedthisonwithustothetopofthemountaintobeleftthereforourmarkItwouldcertainlyhavebeenasimpleevidenceofcivilizedmanMcCauslinsaidthatlargewoodencrossesmadeofoak still sound were sometimes found standing in this wilderness whichwere set up by the first Catholic missionaries who came through to theKennebecInthenextninemileswhichweretheextentofourvoyageandwhichittookustherestofthedaytogetoverwerowedacrossseveralsmalllakespoledupnumerousrapidsandthoroughfaresandcarriedoverfourportagesIwillgive the names and distances for the benefit of future tourists First afterleavingAmbejijisLakewehadaquarterofamileofrapidstotheportageorcarry of ninety rods aroundAmbejijis Falls then amile and a half throughPassamagametLakewhich isnarrowand river-like to the fallsof thesamenamemdashAmbejijis stream coming in on the right then two miles throughKatepskonegan Lake to the portage of ninety rods around KatepskoneganFallswhichnamesignifiescarrying-placemdashPassamagametstreamcomingin on the left then three miles through Pockwockomus Lake a slightexpansionoftherivertotheportageoffortyrodsaroundthefallsofthesamenamemdashKatepskoneganstreamcominginontheleftthenthreequartersofamilethroughAboljacarmegusLakesimilartothelasttotheportageoffortyrodsaroundthefallsofthesamenamethenhalfamileofrapidwatertotheSowadnehunkdeadwaterandtheAboljacknagesicstreamThisisgenerallytheorderofnamesasyouascendtheriverFirstthelakeorif there is no expansion the deadwater then the falls then the streamemptyingintothelakeorriveraboveallofthesamenameFirstwecametoPassamagamet Lake then to Passamagamet Falls then to PassamagametStreamemptyinginThisorderandidentityofnamesitwillbeperceivedisquite philosophical since the deadwater or lake is always at least partiallyproducedbythestreamemptyinginaboveandthefirstfallbelowwhichistheoutletof that lakeandwhere that tributarywatermakes its firstplunge

alsonaturallybearsthesamenameAt theportagearoundAmbejijisFalls Iobservedapork-barrelon theshorewithaholeeightornineinchessquarecutinonesidewhichwassetagainstan upright rock but the bears without turning or upsetting the barrel hadgnawedaholeintheoppositesidewhichlookedexactlylikeanenormousrat-holebigenoughtoputtheirheadsinandatthebottomofthebarrelwerestillleftafewmangledandslabberedslicesofporkItisusualforthelumbererstoleave such supplies as they cannot conveniently carry along with them atcarriesorcampstowhichthenextcomersdonotscrupletohelpthemselvestheybeingthepropertycommonlynotofanindividualbutacompanywhocanaffordtodealliberallyIwilldescribeparticularlyhowwegotoversomeoftheseportagesandrapidsin order that the readermay get an idea of the boatmans lifeAtAmbejijisFalls for instance there was the roughest path imaginable cut through thewoodsatfirstuphillatanangleofnearlyforty-fivedegreesoverrocksandlogswithoutendThiswasthemanneroftheportageWefirstcarriedoverourbaggageanddepositeditontheshoreattheotherendthenreturningtothebatteauwe dragged it up the hill by the painter and onwardwith frequentpausesoverhalf theportageBut thiswasabunglingway andwould soonhave worn out the boat Commonly three men walk over with a batteauweighing from three to five or six hundred pounds on their heads andshoulders the tallest standing under themiddle of the boatwhich is turnedoverandoneateachendorelsetherearetwoatthebowsMorecannotwelltakeholdatonceButthisrequiressomepracticeaswellasstrengthandisinanycaseextremely laboriousandwearing to theconstitution to followWewereonthewholeratheraninvalidpartyandcouldrenderourboatmenbutlittleassistanceOurtwomenatlengthtookthebatteauupontheirshouldersandwhile twoofussteadiedit toprevent it fromrockingandwearingintotheir shouldersonwhich theyplaced theirhats foldedwalkedbravelyoverthe remaining distance with two or three pauses In the samemanner theyaccomplished theotherportagesWith this crushingweight theymust climbandstumblealongoverfallentreesandslipperyrocksofallsizeswherethosewho walked by the sides were continually brushed off such was thenarrownessofthepathButwewerefortunatenottohavetocutourpathinthe firstplaceBeforewe launchedourboatwe scraped thebottomsmoothagainwithourkniveswhereithadrubbedontherockstosavefrictionToavoidthedifficultiesoftheportageourmendeterminedtowarpupthePassamagamet Falls so while the rest walked over the portage with thebaggageIremainedinthebatteautoassistinwarpingupWeweresooninthemidstof the rapidswhichweremore swift and tumultuous thananywehad poled up and had turned to the side of the stream for the purpose of

warping when the boatmen who felt some pride in their skill and wereambitioustodosomethingmorethanusualformybenefitasIsurmisedtookonemoreviewoftherapidsorratherthefallsandinanswertoourquestionwhetherwecouldntgetuptheretheotheransweredthatheguessedhedtryitSowepushedagainintothemidstofthestreamandbegantostrugglewiththe current I sat in themiddle of theboat to trim itmoving slightly to therightor left as it grazed a rockWith anuncertain andwaveringmotionwewound and bolted our way up until the bow was actually raised two feetabove the stern at the steepest pitch and then when everything dependeduponhisexertionsthebowmanspolesnappedintwobutbeforehehadtimeto take the spare one which I reached him he had saved himself with thefragmentuponarockandsowegotupbyahairsbreadthandUncleGeorgeexclaimedthatthatwasneverdonebeforeandhehadnottrieditifhehadnotknownwhomhehadgotinthebownorheinthebowifhehadnotknownhim in the stern At this place there was a regular portage cut through thewoods and our boatmen had never known a batteau to ascend the fallsAsnearasIcanremembertherewasaperpendicularfallhereattheworstplaceofthewholePenobscotRivertwoorthreefeetatleastIcouldnotsufficientlyadmire the skill and coolness with which they performed this feat neverspeakingtoeachotherThebowmannotlookingbehindbutknowingexactlywhat theother isaboutworksas ifheworkedaloneNowsounding invainfor a bottom in fifteen feet ofwaterwhile the boat falls back several rodsheldstraightonlywiththegreatestskillandexertionorwhile thesternmanobstinately holds his ground like a turtle the bowman springs from side toside with wonderful suppleness and dexterity scanning the rapids and therockswith a thousand eyes and now having got a bite at lastwith a lustyshovewhichmakeshispolebendandquiverandthewholeboattremblehegainsafewfeetupontheriverToaddtothedangerthepolesareliableatanytimetobecaughtbetweentherocksandwrenchedoutoftheirhandsleavingthematthemercyoftherapidsmdashtherocksasitwerelyinginwait likesomanyalligators tocatchthemintheirteethandjerkthemfromyourhandsbeforeyouhavestolenaneffectualshoveagainsttheirpalatesThepoleissetclosetotheboatandtheprowismadetoovershootandjustturnthecornersof the rocks in the very teeth of the rapids Nothing but the length andlightness and the slight draught of the batteau enables them to make anyheadway The bowmanmust quickly choose his course there is no time todeliberate Frequently the boat is shoved between rocks where both sidestouchandthewatersoneitherhandareaperfectmaelstromHalfamileabovethistwoofustriedourhandsatpolingupaslightrapidandwe were just surmounting the last difficulty when an unlucky rockconfounded our calculations and while the batteau was sweeping roundirrecoverablyamidthewhirlpoolwewereobligedtoresignthepolestomore

skillfulhandsKatepskoneganisoneoftheshallowestandweediestofthelakesandlookedas if it might abound in pickerel The falls of the same name where westopped to dine are considerable and quite picturesqueHereUncleGeorgehadseen troutcaughtby thebarrelfulbut theywouldnot rise toourbaitatthishourHalfwayoverthiscarrythusfarintheMainewildernessonitswayto theProvinceswe noticed a large flamingOakHall handbill about twofeet longwrapped round the trunkofapine fromwhich thebarkhadbeenstrippedandtowhichitwasfastgluedbythepitchThisshouldberecordedamongtheadvantagesofthismodeofadvertisingthatsopossiblyeventhebears andwolvesmoose deer otter andbeaver not tomention the Indianmaylearnwheretheycanfitthemselvesaccordingtothelatestfashionoratleast recover some of their own lost garmentsWe christened this the OakHallcarryTheforenoonwasassereneandplacidonthiswildstreaminthewoodsasweare apt to imagine that Sunday in summer usually is inMassachusettsWewere occasionally startled by the scream of a bald eagle sailing over thestream in front of our batteau or of the fish hawks onwhom he levies hiscontributionsTherewereat intervalssmallmeadowsofafewacreson thesidesofthestreamwavingwithuncutgrasswhichattractedtheattentionofourboatmenwho regretted that theywerenotnearer to their clearings andcalculated how many stacks they might cut Two or three men sometimesspendthesummerbythemselvescuttingthegrassinthesemeadowstoselltotheloggersinthewintersinceitwillfetchahigherpriceonthespotthaninanymarketintheStateOnasmallislecoveredwiththiskindofrushorcut-grassonwhichwelandedtoconsultaboutourfurthercoursewenoticedtherecent track of a moose a large roundish hole in the soft wet groundevincingthegreatsizeandweightoftheanimalthatmadeitTheyarefondofthewaterandvisitalltheseislandmeadowsswimmingaseasilyfromislandtoislandastheymaketheirwaythroughthethicketsonlandNowandthenwepassedwhatMcCauslin called a pokelogan an Indian term forwhat thedriversmighthavereasontocallapoke-logs-inaninletthatleadsnowhereIfyou get in you have got to get out again the same way These and thefrequent runrounds which come into the river again would embarrass aninexperiencedvoyagernotalittleThecarryaroundPockwockomusFallswasexceedinglyroughandrockythebatteauhavingtobelifteddirectlyfromthewaterupfourorfivefeetontoarockandlaunchedagaindownasimilarbankTherocksonthisportagewerecovered with the dents made by the spikes in the lumberers boots whilestaggeringoverunder theweightof theirbatteauxandyoucouldseewherethesurfaceofsome large rocksonwhich theyhad rested theirbatteauxwas

wornquitesmoothwithuseAsitwaswehadcarriedoverbuthalftheusualportageat thisplaceforthisstageofthewaterandlaunchedourboatinthesmoothwavejustcurvingtothefallpreparedtostrugglewiththemostviolentrapidwehadtoencounterTherestofthepartywalkedovertheremainderoftheportagewhileI remainedwith theboatmentoassist inwarpingupOnehadtoholdtheboatwhiletheothersgotintopreventitfromgoingoverthefallsWhenwehadpusheduptherapidsasfaraspossiblekeepingclose totheshoreTomseizedthepainterandleapedoutuponarockjustvisibleinthewater but he lost his footing notwithstanding his spiked boots and wasinstantlyamid therapidsbutrecoveringhimselfbygoodluckandreachinganotherrockhepassedthepaintertomewhohadfollowedhimandtookhisplaceagaininthebowsLeapingfromrocktorockintheshoalwaterclosetotheshoreandnowandthengettingabitewiththeroperoundanuprightoneI held theboatwhile one reset his pole and then all three forced it upwardagainstanyrapidThiswaswarpingupWhenapartofuswalkedroundatsuchaplacewegenerally took theprecaution to takeout themostvaluablepartofthebaggageforfearofbeingswampedAs we poled up a swift rapid for half a mile above Aboljacarmegus Fallssomeof thepartyreadtheirownmarksonthehugelogswhichlaypileduphighanddryontherocksoneitherhandtherelicsprobablyofajamwhichhadtakenplacehereintheGreatFreshetinthespringManyofthesewouldhavetowaitforanothergreatfreshetperchanceiftheylastedsolongbeforetheycouldbegotoffItwassingularenoughtomeetwithpropertyof theirswhich they had never seen and where they had never been before thusdetainedbyfreshetsandrockswhenonitswaytothemMethinksthatmustbewhere all my property lies cast up on the rocks on some distant andunexploredstreamandwaitingforanunheard-offreshettofetchitdownOmake haste ye godswith yourwinds and rains and start the jambefore itrotsThe lasthalfmilecarriedus to theSowadnehunkDeadwatersocalledfromthe stream of the same name signifying running between mountains animportant tributarywhichcomes inamileaboveHerewedecided tocampabout twenty miles from the Dam at the mouth of Murch Brook and theAboljacknagesicmountainstreamsbroadofffromKtaadnandaboutadozenmilesfromitssummithavingmadefifteenmilesthisdayWe had been told byMcCauslin thatwe should here find trout enough sowhilesomepreparedthecamptherestfelltofishingSeizingthebirchpoleswhich some party of Indians or white hunters had left on the shore andbaitingourhookswithporkandwithtroutassoonastheywerecaughtwecast our lines into themouth of theAboljacknagesic a clear swift shallowstream which came in from Ktaadn Instantly a shoal of white chivin

(Leuciscus pulchellus) silvery roaches cousin-trout or what not large andsmall prowling thereabouts fell upon our bait and one after another werelandedamidst thebushesAnon their cousins the true trout took their turnandalternatelythespeckledtroutandthesilveryroachesswallowedthebaitasfastaswecouldthrowinandthefinestspecimensofboththatIhaveeverseen the largest one weighing three pounds were heaved upon the shorethoughatfirstinvaintowriggledownintothewateragainforwestoodintheboatbut soonwe learned to remedy this evil foronewhohad losthishookstoodonshoretocatchthemastheyfellinaperfectshoweraroundhimmdashsometimeswetandslippery full inhisfaceandbosomashisarmswereoutstretchedtoreceivethemWhileyetalivebeforetheirtintshadfadedtheyglistenedlikethefairestflowerstheproductofprimitiveriversandhecouldhardly trusthis sensesashestoodover them that these jewels shouldhaveswamawayinthatAboljacknagesicwaterforsolongsomanydarkagesmdashthesebrightfluviatileflowersseenofIndiansonlymadebeautifultheLordonlyknowswhytoswimthereIcouldunderstandbetterforthisthetruthofmythology thefablesofProteusandall thosebeautifulsea-monstersmdashhowallhistoryindeedputtoaterrestrialuseismerehistorybutputtoacelestialismythologyalwaysBut there is the roughvoiceofUncleGeorgewhocommandsat the frying-pan to sendoverwhatyouvegot and thenyoumaystay tillmorningThepork sizzles and cries for fish Luckily for the foolish race and thisparticularlyfoolishgenerationoftroutthenightshutdownatlastnotalittledeepenedbythedarksideofKtaadnwhichlikeapermanentshadowreareditselffromtheeasternbankLescarbotwritingin1609tellsusthattheSieurChampdoreacute who with one of the people of the Sieur deMonts ascendedsome fifty leagues up theSt John in 1608 found the fish so plenty quenmettantlachaudiegraveresurlefeuilsenavoientprissuffisammentpoureuxdisneravantqueleaufustchaudeTheirdescendantsherearenolessnumerousSoweaccompaniedTomintothewoodstocutcedartwigsforourbedWhilehewentaheadwith theaxeand loppedoff thesmallest twigsof the flat-leavedcedarthearbor-vitaeligofthegardenswegatheredthemupandreturnedwiththemtotheboatuntilitwasloadedOurbedwasmadewithasmuchcareandskillasaroofisshingledbeginningatthefootandlayingthetwigendofthecedarupwardweadvancedtotheheadacourseatatimethussuccessivelycoveringthestub-endsandproducingasoftandlevelbedForussixitwasabouttenfeetlongbysixinbreadthThistimewelayunderourtenthavingpitched itmoreprudentlywith reference to thewind and the flame and theusualhugefireblazedinfrontSupperwaseatenoffalargelogwhichsomefreshet had thrown upThis nightwe had a dish of arbor-vitaelig or cedar teawhichthelumberersometimesuseswhenotherherbsfailmdashAquartofarbor-vitaelig

TomakehimstrongandmightymdashbutIhadnowishtorepeattheexperimentIthadtoomedicinalatasteformypalate There was the skeleton of a moose here whose bones some IndianhuntershadpickedonthisveryspotInthenightIdreamedoftrout-fishingandwhenatlengthIawokeitseemeda fable that this painted fish swam there so nearmy couch and rose to ourhooks the lasteveningand Idoubted if Ihadnotdreamed it allSo IarosebeforedawntotestitstruthwhilemycompanionswerestillsleepingTherestood Ktaadn with distinct and cloudless outline in the moonlight and theripplingoftherapidswastheonlysoundtobreakthestillnessStandingontheshoreIoncemorecastmylineintothestreamandfoundthedreamtoberealandthefabletrueThespeckledtroutandsilveryroachlikeflying-fishspedswiftly through themoonlight air describingbright arcs on thedark sideofKtaadnuntilmoonlightnowfadingintodaylightbroughtsatietytomymindandthemindsofmycompanionswhohadjoinedmeBy six oclock having mounted our packs and a good blanketful of troutready dressed and swung up such baggage and provision as we wished toleave behind upon the tops of saplings to be out of the reach of bearswestarted for the summit of the mountain distant as Uncle George said theboatmencalled itaboutfourmilesbutasI judgedandas itprovednearerfourteenHehadneverbeenanynearerthemountainthanthisandtherewasnot the slightest trace of man to guide us farther in this direction At firstpushing a few rods up the Aboljacknagesic or open-land stream wefastened our batteau to a tree and traveled up the north side through burntlands nowpartially overgrownwith young aspens and other shrubbery butsoonrecrossingthisstreamwhereitwasaboutfiftyorsixtyfeetwideuponajam of logs and rocksmdashand you could cross it by this means almostanywheremdashwe struck at once for the highest peak over amile ormore ofcomparativelyopenlandstillverygraduallyascendingthewhileHereitfelltomy lot as theoldestmountain-climber to take the leadSo scanning thewoodysideofthemountainwhichlaystillatanindefinitedistancestretchedout some seven or eight miles in length before us we determined to steerdirectlyforthebaseofthehighestpeakleavingalargeslidebywhichasIhave since learned some of our predecessors ascended on our left Thiscoursewouldleadusparallel toadarkseamintheforestwhichmarkedthebedof a torrent andover a slight spurwhichextended southward from themainmountain fromwhose bare summitwe could get an outlook over thecountryandclimbdirectlyup thepeakwhichwould thenbecloseathandSeen from thispoint abare ridgeat theextremityof theopen landKtaadnpresented a different aspect from any mountain I have seen there being agreater proportion of naked rock rising abruptly from the forest and we

looked up at this blue barrier as if it were some fragment of a wall whichanciently bounded the earth in that direction Setting the compass for anortheast coursewhichwas the bearing of the southern base of the highestpeakweweresoonburiedinthewoodsWesoonbegantomeetwith tracesofbearsandmooseandthoseofrabbitswereeverywherevisibleThe tracksofmoosemoreor less recent to speakliterally covered every square rod on the sides of the mountain and theseanimalsareprobablymorenumeroustherenowthaneverbeforebeingdriveninto this wilderness from all sides by the settlements The track of a full-grownmooseis likethatofacoworlargerandoftheyounglikethatofacalfSometimeswe foundourselves traveling in faintpathswhich theyhadmade like cow-paths in the woods only far more indistinct being ratheropenings affording imperfect vistas through the dense underwood thantroddenpathsandeverywherethetwigshadbeenbrowsedbythemclippedassmoothlyasifbyaknifeThebarkoftreeswasstrippedupbythemtotheheightofeightorninefeetinlongnarrowstripsaninchwidestillshowingthedistinctmarksoftheirteethWeexpectednothinglessthantomeetaherdof themeverymoment andourNimrodheldhis shooting-iron in readinessbutwedidnotgooutofourwaytolookforthemandthoughnumeroustheyaresowarythattheunskillfulhuntermightrangetheforestalongtimebeforehe could get sight of one They are sometimes dangerous to encounter andwillnotturnoutforthehunterbutfuriouslyrushuponhimandtramplehimtodeathunlessheisluckyenoughtoavoidthembydodgingroundatreeThelargest are nearly as large as a horse and weigh sometimes one thousandpoundsanditissaidthattheycanstepoverafive-footgateintheirordinarywalkTheyaredescribedasexceedinglyawkward-lookinganimalswiththeirlong legs and short bodiesmaking a ludicrous figurewhen in full run butmakinggreatheadwayneverthelessItseemedamysterytoushowtheycouldthread these woods which it required all our suppleness to accomplishmdashclimbingstoopingandwindingalternatelyTheyaresaidtodroptheirlongandbranchinghornswhichusuallyspreadfiveorsixfeetontheirbacksandmaketheirwayeasilybytheweightoftheirbodiesOurboatmensaidbutIknownotwithhowmuchtruththattheirhornsareapttobegnawedawaybyverminwhiletheysleepTheirfleshwhichismorelikebeefthanvenisoniscommoninBangormarketWehadproceededonthussevenoreightmilestillaboutnoonwithfrequentpauses to refresh the weary ones crossing a considerablemountain streamwhichweconjecturedtobeMurchBrookatwhosemouthwehadcampedallthe time in woods without having once seen the summit and rising verygraduallywhentheboatmenbeginningtodespairalittleandfearingthatwewere leaving themountainononesideofus for theyhadnotentirefaith inthecompassMcCauslinclimbedatreefromthetopofwhichhecouldseethe

peakwhenitappearedthatwehadnotswervedfromarightlinethecompassdownbelowstill rangingwithhisarmwhichpointed to thesummitBy thesideofacoolmountainrillamidthewoodswherethewaterbegantopartakeof the purity and transparency of the air we stopped to cook some of ourfishes which we had brought thus far in order to save our hard-bread andpork intheuseofwhichwehadputourselvesonshortallowanceWesoonhadafireblazingandstoodarounditunderthedampandsombreforestoffirsandbircheseachwithasharpenedstickthreeorfourfeetinlengthuponwhichhehadspittedhistroutorroachpreviouslywellgashedandsaltedoursticksradiatinglikethespokesofawheelfromonecentreandeachcrowdinghisparticularfishintothemostdesirableexposurenotwiththetruestregardalways to his neighbors rights Thus we regaled ourselves drinkingmeanwhile at the spring till one mans pack at least was considerablylightenedwhenweagaintookupourlineofmarchAt lengthwe reached an elevation sufficiently bare to afford a view of thesummitstilldistantandbluealmostasifretreatingfromusAtorrentwhichproved to be the same we had crossed was seen tumbling down in frontliterallyfromoutofthecloudsButthisglimpseatourwhereaboutswassoonlost andwewere buried in thewoods againThewoodwas chiefly yellowbirch spruce firmountain-ash or round-wood as theMainepeople call itand moose-wood It was the worst kind of traveling sometimes like thedensest scrub oak patches with us The cornel or bunch-berries were veryabundant as well as Solomons-seal and moose-berries Blueberries weredistributedalongourwholerouteandinoneplacethebushesweredroopingwiththeweightofthefruitstillasfreshaseverItwasthe7thofSeptemberSuch patches afforded a grateful repast and served to bait the tired partyforwardWhenanylaggedbehindthecryofblueberrieswasmosteffectualto bring them up Even at this elevation we passed through a moose-yardformedbya largeflat rock fouror fiverodssquarewhere they treaddownthesnowinwinterAtlengthfearingthatifweheldthedirectcoursetothesummitweshouldnotfindanywaternearourcamping-groundwegraduallyswerved to thewest tillat fouroclockwestruckagain the torrentwhichIhavementionedandhereinviewofthesummitthewearypartydecidedtocampthatnightWhile my companions were seeking a suitable spot for this purpose IimprovedthelittledaylightthatwasleftinclimbingthemountainaloneWewere in a deep and narrow ravine sloping up to the clouds at an angle ofnearlyforty-fivedegreesandhemmedinbywallsofrockwhichwereatfirstcoveredwithlowtreesthenwithimpenetrablethicketsofscraggybirchesandsprucetreesandwithmossbutatlastbareofallvegetationbutlichensandalmost continually draped in clouds Following up the course of the torrentwhichoccupied thismdashand Imean to laysomeemphasison thiswordupmdash

pullingmyselfupbythesideofperpendicularfallsoftwentyorthirtyfeetbytherootsoffirsandbirchesandthenperhapswalkingalevelrodortwointhethinstreamfor it tookupthewholeroadascendingbyhugestepsas itwere a giants stairway downwhich a river flowed I had soon cleared thetreesandpausedonthesuccessiveshelvestolookbackoverthecountryThetorrentwasfromfifteentothirtyfeetwidewithoutatributaryandseeminglynotdiminishinginbreadthasIadvancedbutstillitcamerushingandroaringdownwithacopioustideoverandamidstmassesofbarerockfromtheverycloudsasthoughawaterspouthadjustburstoverthemountainLeavingthisat lastIbegantoworkmywayscarcelylessarduousthanSatansancientlythroughChaosupthenearestthoughnotthehighestpeakAtfirstscramblingonallfoursoverthetopsofancientblacksprucetrees(Abiesnigra)oldastheflood fromtwoto tenor twelvefeet inheight their topsflatandspreadingandtheirfoliageblueandnippedwithcoldasifforcenturiestheyhadceasedgrowingupwardagainstthebleakskythesolidcoldIwalkedsomegoodrodserect upon the tops of these trees which were overgrown with moss andmountaincranberries Itseemedthat in thecourseof timetheyhadfilleduptheintervalsbetweenthehugerocksandthecoldwindhaduniformlyleveledall over Here the principle of vegetation was hard put to it There wasapparently a belt of this kind running quite round the mountain thoughperhaps nowhere so remarkable as here Once slumping through I lookeddowntenfeetintoadarkandcavernousregionandsawthestemofaspruceonwhosetopIstoodasonamassofcoarsebasket-workfullynineinchesindiameteratthegroundTheseholeswerebearsdensandthebearswereeventhenathomeThiswasthesortofgardenImademywayoverforaneighthofamileattheriskitistrueoftreadingonsomeoftheplantsnotseeinganypath through itmdashcertainly the most treacherous and porous country I evertraveledNighfounderedonhefaresTreadingthecrudeconsistencehalfonfootHalfflyingButnothingcouldexceedthetoughnessofthetwigsmdashnotonesnappedundermyweight for they had slowly grownHaving slumped scrambled rolledbounced and walked by turns over this scraggy country I arrived upon aside-hill or rather side-mountain where rocks gray silent rocks were theflocksandherdsthatpasturedchewingarockycudatsunsetTheylookedatmewithhardgrayeyeswithoutableatoralowThisbroughtmetotheskirtofacloudandboundedmywalkthatnightButIhadalreadyseenthatMainecountrywhenIturnedaboutwavingflowingripplingdownbelowWhen I returned tomycompanions theyhadselectedacamping-groundonthe torrents edge andwere restingon theground onewason the sick list

rolledinablanketonadampshelfofrockItwasasavageanddrearysceneryenoughsowildlyroughthattheylookedlongtofindalevelandopenspacefor the tentWe couldnotwell camphigher forwant of fuel and the treeshere seemed so evergreen and sappy thatwe almost doubted if theywouldacknowledgetheinfluenceoffirebutfireprevailedat lastandblazedheretoolikeagoodcitizenoftheworldEvenatthisheightwemetwithfrequenttracesofmooseaswellasofbearsAsherewasnocedarwemadeourbedofcoarser feathered spruce but at any rate the featherswereplucked from thelive tree ItwasperhapsevenamoregrandanddesolateplaceforanightslodgingthanthesummitwouldhavebeenbeingintheneighborhoodofthosewildtreesandofthetorrentSomemoreaeumlrialandfiner-spiritedwindsrushedand roared through the ravineallnight from time to timearousingour fireanddispersingtheembersaboutItwasasifwelayintheverynestofayoungwhirlwindAtmidnightoneofmybed-fellowsbeingstartled inhisdreamsby the sudden blazing up to its top of a fir treewhose green boughsweredriedbytheheatsprangupwithacryfromhisbed thinkingtheworldonfireanddrewthewholecampafterhimInthemorningafterwhettingourappetiteonsomerawporkawaferofhard-breadandadipperofcondensedcloudorwaterspoutwealltogetherbegantomakeourwayupthefallswhichIhavedescribedthistimechoosingtherighthand or highest peakwhichwas not the one I had approached beforeButsoonmycompanionswerelosttomysightbehindthemountainridgeinmyrearwhich still seemedever retreatingbeforemeand I climbedaloneoverhugerockslooselypoisedamileormorestilledgingtowardthecloudsforthoughthedaywasclearelsewhere thesummitwasconcealedbymistThemountain seemed a vast aggregation of loose rocks as if some time it hadrainedrocksandtheylayastheyfellonthemountainsidesnowherefairlyatrestbut leaningoneachotherall rockingstoneswithcavitiesbetweenbutscarcelyanysoilorsmoothershelfTheywere therawmaterialsofaplanetdropped from an unseen quarry which the vast chemistry of nature wouldanonworkuporworkdownintothesmilingandverdantplainsandvalleysofearthThiswasanundoneextremityoftheglobeasinligniteweseecoalintheprocessofformationAtlengthIenteredwithintheskirtsofthecloudwhichseemedforeverdriftingoverthesummitandyetwouldneverbegonebutwasgeneratedoutofthatpure air as fast as it flowed away andwhen a quarter of amile farther Ireachedthesummitoftheridgewhichthosewhohaveseeninclearerweathersayisaboutfivemileslongandcontainsathousandacresoftable-landIwasdeepwithinthehostileranksofcloudsandallobjectswereobscuredbythemNowthewindwouldblowmeoutayardofclearsunlightwherein I stoodthen a gray dawning light was all it could accomplish the cloud-line everrising and falling with the winds intensity Sometimes it seemed as if the

summitwouldbeclearedinafewmomentsandsmileinsunshinebutwhatwasgainedononesidewas lostonanother Itwas likesitting inachimneyandwaiting for the smoke to blow away Itwas in fact a cloud-factorymdashthesewerethecloud-worksandthewindturnedthemoffdonefromthecoolbare rocksOccasionallywhen thewindycolumnsbroke in tome I caughtsight of a dark damp crag to the right or left themist driving ceaselesslybetween it and me It reminded me of the creations of the old epic anddramatic poets of Atlas Vulcan the Cyclops and Prometheus Such wasCaucasusandtherockwherePrometheuswasboundAEligschylushadnodoubtvisited such scenery as this It was vast Titanic and such as man neverinhabits Some part of the beholder even some vital part seems to escapethroughtheloosegratingofhisribsasheascendsHeismorelonethanyoucanimagineThereislessofsubstantialthoughtandfairunderstandinginhimthan in the plainswheremen inhabitHis reason is dispersed and shadowymorethinandsubtileliketheairVastTitanicinhumanNaturehasgothimatdisadvantagecaughthimaloneandpilfershimofsomeofhisdivinefacultyShe does not smile on him as in the plains She seems to say sternlyWhycameyeherebeforeyourtimeThisgroundisnotpreparedforyouIsitnotenoughthatIsmileinthevalleysIhavenevermadethissoilforthyfeetthisair for thybreathing these rocks for thyneighbors I cannotpitynor fondletheeherebutforeverrelentlesslydrivetheehencetowhereIamkindWhyseekmewhereIhavenotcalledtheeandthencomplainbecauseyoufindmebut a stepmother Shouldst thou freeze or starve or shudder thy life awayhereisnoshrinenoraltarnoranyaccesstomyearChaosandancientNightIcomenospyWithpurposetoexploreortodisturbThesecretsofyourrealmbutasmywayLiesthroughyourspaciousempireuptolightThetopsofmountainsareamongtheunfinishedpartsoftheglobewhitheritisaslight insult to thegods toclimbandpry into theirsecretsand try theireffect on our humanityOnly daring and insolentmen perchance go thereSimpleracesassavagesdonotclimbmountainsmdashtheirtopsaresacredandmysterious tracts never visited by them Pomola is always angrywith thosewhoclimbtothesummitofKtaadnAccordingtoJacksonwhoinhiscapacityofgeologicalsurveyoroftheStatehasaccuratelymeasureditthealtitudeofKtaadnis5300feetoralittlemorethanonemileabovetheleveloftheseaandheaddsItisthenevidentlythehighestpointintheStateofMaineandisthemostabruptgranitemountaininNewEnglandThepeculiarities of that spacious table-landonwhich Iwas

standing as well as the remarkable semicircular precipice or basin on theeasternsidewereallconcealedbythemistIhadbroughtmywholepacktothe topnotknowingbutIshouldhavetomakemydescent to theriverandpossiblytothesettledportionoftheStatealoneandbysomeotherrouteandwishing to have a complete outfit with me But at length fearing that mycompanionswould be anxious to reach the river before night and knowingthat the clouds might rest on the mountain for days I was compelled todescendOccasionallyasIcamedownthewindwouldblowmeavistaopenthroughwhichIcouldseethecountryeastwardboundlessforestsandlakesand streams gleaming in the sun some of them emptying into the EastBranchTherewere also newmountains in sight in that directionNowandthensomesmallbirdofthesparrowfamilywouldflitawaybeforemeunabletocommanditscourselikeafragmentofthegrayrockblownoffbythewindI found my companions where I had left them on the side of the peakgathering the mountain cranberries which filled every crevice between therockstogetherwithblueberrieswhichhadaspicierflavorthehigheruptheygrew but were not the less agreeable to our palates When the country issettledandroadsaremade thesecranberrieswillperhapsbecomeanarticleofcommerceFrom thiselevation juston the skirtsof thecloudswecouldoverlook thecountrywestandsouth forahundredmilesThere itwas theState ofMaine which we had seen on the map but not much like thatmdashimmeasurable forest for the sun to shineon that eastern stuffwehearof inMassachusettsNoclearingnohouseItdidnot lookasifasolitarytravelerhadcutsomuchasawalking-stickthereCountlesslakesmdashMooseheadinthesouthwest fortymiles longby tenwide likeagleamingsilverplatterat theendofthetableChesuncookeighteenlongbythreewidewithoutanislandMillinocket on the south with its hundred islands and a hundred otherswithout a name and mountains also whose names for the most part areknownonlytotheIndiansTheforestlookedlikeafirmgrassswardandtheeffectoftheselakesinitsmidsthasbeenwellcomparedbyonewhohassincevisitedthissamespot tothatofamirrorbrokenintoathousandfragmentsandwildlyscatteredoverthegrassreflectingthefullblazeofthesunItwasa largefarmforsomebodywhenclearedAccordingto theGazetteerwhichwas printed before the boundary questionwas settled this single PenobscotCountyinwhichwewerewaslargerthanthewholeStateofVermontwithitsfourteencountiesandthiswasonlyapartofthewildlandsofMaineWeareconcernednowhoweveraboutnaturalnotpoliticallimitsWewereabouteightymilesasthebirdfliesfromBangororonehundredandfifteenaswehad ridden andwalked and paddledWehad to console ourselveswith thereflectionthatthisviewwasprobablyasgoodasthatfromthepeakasfarasit went and what were a mountain without its attendant clouds andmistsLikeourselvesneitherBaileynorJacksonhadobtainedaclearviewfromthe

summitSetting out on our return to the river still at an early hour in the day wedecided to followthecourseof the torrentwhichwesupposed tobeMurchBrookaslongasitwouldnotleadustoofaroutofourwayWethustraveledaboutfourmilesintheverytorrentitselfcontinuallycrossingandrecrossingitleapingfromrocktorockandjumpingwiththestreamdownfallsofsevenoreightfeetorsometimesslidingdownonourbacksinathinsheetofwaterThis ravine had been the scene of an extraordinary freshet in the springapparentlyaccompaniedbyaslidefromthemountainItmusthavebeenfilledwithastreamofstonesandwateratleasttwentyfeetabovethepresentlevelof the torrentFora rodor twooneither sideof its channel the treeswerebarked and splintered up to their tops the birches bent over twisted andsometimesfinelysplitlikeastable-broomsomeafootindiametersnappedoff andwhole clumps of trees bent overwith theweight of rocks piled onthem In one placewe noticed a rock two or three feet in diameter lodgednearly twenty feethigh in thecrotchof a treeFor thewhole fourmileswesaw but one rill emptying in and the volume of water did not seem to beincreased from the first We traveled thus very rapidly with a downwardimpetusandgrewremarkablyexpertatleapingfromrocktorockforleapwemustandleapwedidwhethertherewasanyrockattherightdistanceornotItwas apleasantpicturewhen the foremost turnedabout and lookedup thewindingravinewalledinwithrocksandthegreenforesttoseeatintervalsofarodortwoared-shirtedorgreen-jacketedmountaineeragainstthewhitetorrentleapingdownthechannelwithhispackonhisbackorpausinguponaconvenient rock in themidst of the torrent tomend a rent inhis clothes orunstrapthedipperathisbelt totakeadraughtofthewaterAtoneplacewewerestartledbyseeingona littlesandyshelfby thesideof thestream thefreshprintofamansfootandforamomentrealizedhowRobinsonCrusoefeltinasimilarcasebutatlastwerememberedthatwehadstruckthisstreamonourwayupthoughwecouldnothavetoldwhereandonehaddescendedintotheravineforadrinkThecoolairaboveandthecontinualbathingofourbodiesinmountainwateralternatefootsitzdoucheandplungebathsmadethiswalkexceedinglyrefreshingandwehadtraveledonlyamileortwoafterleaving the torrent before every thread of our clotheswas as dry as usualowingperhapstoapeculiarqualityintheatmosphereAfter leaving the torrent being indoubt aboutour courseTom threwdownhispackatthefootoftheloftiestsprucetreeathandandshinnedupthebaretrunksometwentyfeetandthenclimbedthroughthegreentowerlosttooursightuntilheheld the topmost spray inhishandMcCauslin inhisyoungerdays had marched through the wilderness with a body of troops underGeneralSomebody andwithoneothermandid all the scouting and spyingserviceTheGeneralswordwasThrowdownthetopofthattreeandthere

wasnotree in theMainewoodssohighthat itdidnot lose its top insuchacaseIhaveheardastoryoftwomenbeinglostonceinthesewoodsnearertothesettlementsthanthiswhoclimbedtheloftiestpinetheycouldfindsomesixfeetindiameteratthegroundfromwhosetoptheydiscoveredasolitaryclearinganditssmokeWhenatthisheightsometwohundredfeetfromthegroundoneofthembecamedizzyandfaintedinhiscompanionsarmsandthe latter had to accomplish the descent with him alternately fainting andrevivingasbesthecouldToTomwecried Whereawaydoes thesummitbearwheretheburntlandsThelasthecouldonlyconjecturehedescriedhowever a littlemeadowandpond lyingprobably inour coursewhichweconcluded to steer for On reaching this secluded meadow we found freshtracksofmooseontheshoreofthepondandthewaterwasstillunsettledasiftheyhad fledbeforeusA little farther inadense thicketwe seemed tobestillontheirtrailItwasasmallmeadowofafewacresonthemountain-sideconcealedbytheforestandperhapsneverseenbyawhitemanbeforewhereonewould think that themoosemight browse and bathe and rest in peacePursuing this course we soon reached the open land which went slopingdownsomemilestowardthePenobscotPerhaps I most fully realized that this was primeval untamed and foreveruntamableNatureorwhateverelsemencallitwhilecomingdownthispartof the mountainWe were passing over Burnt Lands burnt by lightningperchance thoughtheyshowednorecentmarksoffirehardlysomuchasacharredstumpbutlookedratherlikeanaturalpastureforthemooseanddeerexceedinglywildanddesolatewithoccasionalstripsoftimbercrossingthemand low poplars springing up and patches of blueberries here and there Ifoundmyself traversing them familiarly like some pasture run towaste orpartially reclaimedbymanbutwhen I reflectedwhatmanwhatbrotherorsisterorkinsmanofourracemadeitandclaimeditIexpectedtheproprietorto rise up and dispute my passage It is difficult to conceive of a regionuninhabited by man We habitually presume his presence and influenceeverywhereAndyetwehavenotseenpureNatureunlesswehaveseenherthus vast and drear and inhuman though in themidst of citiesNaturewasheresomethingsavageandawful thoughbeautifulI lookedwithaweat thegroundItrodontoseewhatthePowershadmadetheretheformandfashionandmaterialoftheirworkThiswasthatEarthofwhichwehaveheardmadeoutofChaosandOldNightHerewasnomansgardenbuttheunhandseledglobe It was not lawn nor pasture nor mead nor woodland nor lea norarablenorwastelandItwasthefreshandnaturalsurfaceoftheplanetEarthas it wasmade forever and evermdashto be the dwelling of man we saymdashsoNaturemadeitandmanmayuseit ifhecanManwasnot tobeassociatedwithitItwasMattervastterrificmdashnothisMotherEarththatwehaveheardof not for him to tread on or be buried inmdashno itwere being too familiar

eventolethisboneslietheremdashthehomethisofNecessityandFateTherewasclearlyfeltthepresenceofaforcenotboundtobekindtomanItwasaplaceforheathenismandsuperstitiousritesmdashtobeinhabitedbymennearerofkintotherocksandtowildanimalsthanweWewalkedoveritwithacertainawe stopping from time to time to pick the blueberrieswhich grew thereandhada smart and spicy tastePerchancewhereourwildpines stand andleaves lie on their forest floor in Concord there were once reapers andhusbandmenplantedgrainbutherenoteventhesurfacehadbeenscarredbymanbutitwasaspecimenofwhatGodsawfittomakethisworldWhatisittobe admitted to amuseum to see amyriadof particular things comparedwithbeingshownsomestarssurfacesomehardmatterinitshomeIstandinaweofmybody thismatter towhich Iamboundhasbecomesostrange tomeIfearnotspiritsghostsofwhichIamonemdashthatmybodymightmdashbutIfearbodiesItrembletomeetthemWhatisthisTitanthathaspossessionofmeTalkofmysteriesThinkofourlifeinnaturemdashdailytobeshownmattertocomeincontactwithitmdashrockstreeswindonourcheeksthesolidearththeactualworld thecommonsenseContactContactWhoarewewhereareweErelongwerecognizedsomerocksandotherfeaturesinthelandscapewhichwehadpurposely impressedonourmemoriesandquickeningourpacebytwooclockwereachedthebatteauHerewehadexpectedtodineontroutbutinthisglaringsunlighttheywereslowtotakethebaitsowewerecompelledtomakethemostof thecrumbsofourhard-breadandourporkwhichwereboth nearly exhaustedMeanwhilewe deliberatedwhetherwe should go uptheriveramilefarthertoGibsonsclearingontheSowadnehunkwheretherewasadesertedloghut inorder togetahalf-inchauger tomendoneofourspike-poleswith Therewere young spruce trees enough around us andwehad a spare spike but nothing tomake a holewithBut as itwas uncertainwhetherweshouldfindanytoolslefttherewepatchedupthebrokenpoleaswellaswecouldforthedownwardvoyageinwhichtherewouldbebutlittleuseforitMoreoverwewereunwillingtoloseanytimeinthisexpeditionlestthewindshouldrisebeforewereached the larger lakesanddetainus foramoderatewindproducesquiteaseaon thesewaters inwhichabatteauwillnot live for amoment and on one occasionMcCauslin had been delayed aweekattheheadoftheNorthTwinwhichisonlyfourmilesacrossWewerenearly out of provisions and ill prepared in this respect for what mightpossibly prove a weeks journey round by the shore fording innumerablestreams and threading a trackless forest should any accident happen to ourboatItwaswithregretthatweturnedourbacksonChesuncookwhichMcCauslinhadformerlyloggedonandtheAllegashlakesTherewerestilllongerrapidsandportagesaboveamongthelasttheRipogenusPortagewhichhedescribed

asthemostdifficultontheriverandthreemileslongThewholelengthofthePenobscotistwohundredandseventy-fivemilesandwearestillnearlyonehundredmilesfromitssourceHodgetheAssistantStateGeologistpassedupthisriverin1837andbyaportageofonlyonemileandthreequarterscrossedover into theAllegash and sowentdown that into theSt John andup theMadawaskato theGrandPortageacross to theStLawrenceHis is theonlyaccountthatIknowofanexpeditionthroughtoCanadainthisdirectionHethusdescribeshisfirstsightofthelatterriverwhichtocomparesmallthingswithgreatislikeBalboasfirstsightofthePacificfromthemountainsoftheIsthmusofDarienWhenwefirstcameinsightoftheStLawrencehesaysfrom the top of a high hill the view was most striking and much moreinterestingtomefromhavingbeenshutupinthewoodsforthetwopreviousmonthsDirectly before us lay the broad river extending across nine or tenmiles its surfacebrokenbya few islandsand reefs and twoships ridingatanchorneartheshoreBeyondextendedrangesofuncultivatedhillsparallelwith the river The sun was just going down behind them and gilding thewholescenewithitspartingraysAbout four oclock the same afternoon we commenced our return voyagewhichwould requirebut little if anypoling In shooting rapids theboatmenuselargeandbroadpaddlesinsteadofpolestoguidetheboatwithThoughweglidedsoswiftlyandoftensmoothlydownwhereithadcostusnoslightefforttogetupourpresentvoyagewasattendedwithfarmoredangerforifweoncefairlystruckoneofthethousandrocksbywhichweweresurroundedthe boat would be swamped in an instantWhen a boat is swamped underthese circumstances the boatmen commonly find no difficulty in keepingafloat at first for the current keepsboth themand their cargoup for a longwaydownthestreamandiftheycanswimtheyhaveonlytoworktheirwaygradually to the shore The greatest danger is of being caught in an eddybehind some larger rock where the water rushes up stream faster thanelsewhereitdoesdownandbeingcarriedroundandroundunderthesurfacetilltheyaredrownedMcCauslinpointedoutsomerockswhichhadbeenthesceneofafatalaccidentofthiskindSometimesthebodyisnotthrownoutforseveral hours He himself had performed such a circuit once only his legsbeingvisibletohiscompanionsbuthewasfortunatelythrownoutinseasontorecoverhisbreathInshootingtherapidstheboatmanhasthisproblemtosolve tochooseacircuitousandsafecourseamida thousandsunken rocksscattered over a quarter or half a mile at the same time that he is movingsteadily on at the rate of fifteen miles an hour Stop he cannot the onlyquestion iswherewill he goThe bowman chooses the coursewith all hiseyes abouthim strikingbroadoffwithhispaddle anddrawing theboatbymainforceintohercourseThesternmanfaithfullyfollowsthebowWeweresoonattheAboljacarmegusFallsAnxioustoavoidthedelayaswell

as the labor of the portage here our boatmen went forward first toreconnoitre and concluded to let the batteau down the falls carrying thebaggageonlyovertheportageJumpingfromrocktorockuntilnearlyinthemiddleofthestreamwewerereadytoreceivetheboatandletherdownoverthefirstfallsomesixorsevenfeetperpendicularTheboatmenstandupontheedgeofashelfofrockwherethefallisperhapsnineortenfeetperpendicularinfromonetotwofeetofrapidwateroneoneachsideoftheboatandletitslide gently over till the bow is run out ten or twelve feet in the air thenlettingitdropsquarelywhileoneholdsthepaintertheotherleapsinandhiscompanion following they are whirled down the rapids to a new fall or tosmooth water In a very few minutes they had accomplished a passage insafetywhichwouldbeasfoolhardyfortheunskillfultoattemptasthedescentofNiagaraitselfItseemedasifitneededonlyalittlefamiliarityandalittlemore skill to navigatedown such falls asNiagara itselfwith safetyAt anyrateIshouldnotdespairofsuchmenintherapidsaboveTableRockuntilIsaw them actually go over the falls so cool so collected so fertile inresourcesaretheyOnemighthavethoughtthatthesewerefallsandthatfallswerenot tobewaded throughwith impunity like amud-puddleTherewasreallydangeroftheirlosingtheirsublimityinlosingtheirpowertoharmusFamiliaritybreedscontemptTheboatmanpausesperchanceon someshelfbeneatha table-rockunder the fall standing in somecoveofbackwater twofeet deep and you hear his rough voice come up through the spray coollygivingdirectionshowtolaunchtheboatthistimeHaving carried roundPockwockomusFalls ouroars soonbrought us to theKatepskoneganorOakHallcarrywherewedecidedtocamphalf-wayoverleavingourbatteautobecarriedoverinthemorningonfreshshouldersOneshoulder of each of the boatmen showed a red spot as large as ones handwornbythebatteauonthisexpeditionandthisshoulderasitdidalltheworkwasperceptiblylowerthanitsfellowfromlongserviceSuchtoilsoonwearsoutthestrongestconstitutionThedriversareaccustomedtoworkinthecoldwater in the spring rarely ever dry and if one falls in all over he rarelychangeshisclothes tillnight if thenevenOnewhotakes thisprecautioniscalledbyaparticularnicknameoristurnedoffNonecanleadthislifewhoarenotalmostamphibiousMcCauslinsaidsoberlywhatisatanyrateagoodstorytotellthathehadseenwheresixmenwerewhollyunderwateratonceatajamwiththeirshoulderstohandspikesIfthelogdidnotstartthentheyhadtoputouttheirheadstobreatheThedriverworksaslongashecanseefrom dark to dark and at night has not time to eat his supper and dry hisclothes fairlybeforehe isasleeponhiscedarbedWe lay thatnighton theverybedmadebysuchapartystretchingourtentoverthepoleswhichwerestillstandingbutre-shinglingthedampandfadedbedwithfreshleavesInthemorningwecarriedourboatoverandlauncheditmakinghastelestthe

wind should rise The boatmen ran down Passamagamet and soon afterAmbejijisFallswhilewewalkedroundwith thebaggageWemadeahastybreakfast at the head of Ambejijis Lake on the remainder of our pork andwere soon rowingacross its smooth surface again under apleasant sky themountainbeingnowclearofcloudsinthenortheastTakingturnsattheoarsweshotrapidlyacrossDeepCove thefootofPamadumcookandtheNorthTwin at the rate of six miles an hour the wind not being high enough todisturbusand reached theDamatnoonTheboatmenwent throughoneofthe log sluices in thebatteauwhere the fallwas ten feet at thebottomandtookus inbelowHerewasthe longestrapid inourvoyageandperhaps therunning this was as dangerous and arduous a task as any Shooting downsometimesat the rate aswe judgedof fifteenmilesanhour ifwestruckarockweweresplitfromendtoendinaninstantNowlikeabaitbobbingforsome rivermonster amid theeddiesnowdarting to this sideof the streamnowtothatglidingswiftandsmoothneartoourdestructionorstrikingbroadoffwiththepaddleanddrawingtheboattorightorleftwithallourmightinordertoavoidarockIsupposethatitwaslikerunningtherapidsoftheSaultSainte Marie at the outlet of Lake Superior and our boatmen probablydisplayednolessdexteritythantheIndianstheredoWesoonranthroughthismileandfloatedinQuakishLakeAftersuchavoyage the troubledandangrywaterswhichoncehadseemedterribleandnottobetrifledwithappearedtamedandsubduedtheyhadbeenbeardedandworried in theirchannelsprickedandwhipped intosubmissionwiththespike-poleandpaddlegonethroughandthroughwithimpunityandall their spiritand theirdanger takenoutof themand themost swollenandimpetuous rivers seemed but playthings henceforth I began at length tounderstand the boatmans familiarity with and contempt for the rapidsThoseFowlerboyssaidMrsMcCauslinareperfectducksforthewaterThey had run down to Lincoln according to her thirty or fortymiles in abatteauinthenightforadoctorwhenitwassodarkthattheycouldnotseearodbefore them and the riverwas swollen so as to be almost a continuousrapidsothatthedoctorcriedwhentheybroughthimupbydaylightWhyTom how did you see to steer We didnt steer muchmdashonly kept herstraight And yet they met with no accident It is true the more difficultrapidsarehigherupthanthisWhenwereachedtheMillinocketoppositetoTomshouseandwerewaitingforhisfolkstosetusovermdashforwehadleftourbatteauabovetheGrandFallsmdashwe discovered two canoeswith twomen in each turning up this streamfromShadPond one keeping the opposite side of a small island before uswhile theotherapproached the sidewherewewere standing examining thebankscarefullyformuskratsastheycamealongThelastprovedtobeLouisNeptuneandhiscompanionnowatlastontheirwayuptoChesuncookafter

moose but they were so disguised that we hardly knew them At a littledistance theymight havebeen taken forQuakerswith their broad-brimmedhatsandovercoatswithbroadcapesthespoilsofBangorseekingasettlementin thisSylvaniamdashornearerathand for fashionablegentlemen themorningafteraspreeMetfacetofacetheseIndiansintheirnativewoodslookedlikethe sinister and slouching fellows whom you meet picking up strings andpaper in the streetsof a cityThere is in fact a remarkable andunexpectedresemblance between the degraded savage and the lowest classes in a greatcityTheone is nomore a childof nature than theother In theprogressofdegradation the distinction of races is soon lost Neptune at first was onlyanxioustoknowwhatwekillseeingsomepartridgesinthehandsofoneofthepartybutwehadassumedtoomuchangertopermitofareplyWethoughtIndianshadsomehonorbeforeButmdashMebeensickOhmeunwellnowYoumake bargain then me go They had in fact been delayed so long by adrunken frolic at the Five Islands and they had not yet recovered from itseffectsTheyhadsomeyoungmusquashintheircanoeswhichtheydugoutof thebankswithahoe for foodnot for theirskins formusquashare theirprincipalfoodontheseexpeditionsSotheywentonuptheMillinocketandwe kept down the bank of the Penobscot after recruiting ourselves with adraughtofTomsbeerleavingTomathishomeThus aman shall lead his life away here on the edge of thewilderness onIndianMillinocketStreaminanewworldfarinthedarkofacontinentandhaveaflutetoplayateveningherewhilehisstrainsechotothestarsamidthehowlingofwolvesshallliveasitwereintheprimitiveageoftheworlda primitivemanYet he shall spend a sunnyday and in this centurybemycontemporary perchance shall read some scattered leaves of literature andsometimes talk with me Why read history then if the ages and thegenerationsarenowHelivesthreethousandyearsdeepintotimeanagenotyetdescribedbypoetsCanyouwellgofurtherbackinhistorythanthisAyaymdashfor there turnsupbutnowinto themouthofMillinocketStreamastillmoreancientandprimitivemanwhosehistory isnotbroughtdowneven totheformerInabarkvesselsewnwiththerootsofthesprucewithhorn-beampaddleshedipshiswayalongHeisbutdimandmisty tomeobscuredbytheaeligonsthatliebetweenthebarkcanoeandthebatteauHebuildsnohouseof logs but a wigwam of skins He eats no hot bread and sweet cake butmusquashandmoosemeatandthefatofbearsHeglidesuptheMillinocketand is lost tomysight asamoredistantandmistycloud is seen flittingbybehindanearerandislostinspaceSohegoesabouthisdestinytheredfaceofmanAfter having passed the night and buttered our boots for the last time atUncle Georges whose dogs almost devoured him for joy at his return wekeptondowntheriverthenextdayabouteightmilesonfootandthentooka

batteauwithamantopoleit toMattawamkeagtenmoreAtthemiddleofthat very night tomake a swift conclusion to a long storywedroppedourbuggyoverthehalf-finishedbridgeatOldtownwhereweheardtheconfuseddinandclinkofahundredsawswhichneverrestandatsixoclockthenextmorningoneofthepartywassteaminghiswaytoMassachusettsWhat ismost striking in theMainewilderness is the continuousness of theforestwithfeweropenintervalsorgladesthanyouhadimaginedExceptthefewburnt lands thenarrowintervalson the rivers thebare topsof thehighmountains and the lakes and streams the forest is uninterrupted It is evenmoregrimandwildthanyouhadanticipatedadampandintricatewildernessin thespringeverywherewetandmiryTheaspectof thecountry indeed isuniversally stern and savage excepting the distant views of the forest fromhills and the lakeprospectswhich aremild and civilizing in a degreeThelakes are something which you are unprepared for they lie up so highexposed to the light and the forest is diminished to a fine fringe on theiredgeswithhereand thereabluemountain likeamethyst jewels set aroundsomejewelofthefirstwatermdashsoanteriorsosuperiortoallthechangesthataretotakeplaceontheirshoresevennowcivilandrefinedandfairastheycaneverbeThesearenot theartificial forestsof anEnglishkingmdasha royalpreserve merely Here prevail no forest laws but those of nature TheaborigineshaveneverbeendispossessednornaturedisforestedIt is a country full of evergreen trees of mossy silver birches and waterymaples the ground dotted with insipid small red berries and strewn withdampandmoss-grown rocksmdashacountrydiversifiedwith innumerable lakesand rapid streams peopled with trout and various species of leucisci withsalmon shad and pickerel and other fishes the forest resounding at rareintervalswiththenoteofthechickadeethebluejayandthewoodpeckerthescreamofthefishhawkandtheeaglethelaughoftheloonandthewhistleofducks along the solitary streams at night with the hooting of owls andhowling of wolves in summer swarming with myriads of black flies andmosquitoesmoreformidablethanwolvestothewhitemanSuchisthehomeofthemoosethebearthecaribouthewolfthebeaverandtheIndianWhoshalldescribetheinexpressibletendernessandimmortallifeofthegrimforestwhereNaturethoughitbemidwinter iseverinherspringwherethemoss-grownanddecayingtreesarenotoldbutseemtoenjoyaperpetualyouthandblissful innocentNature likea serene infant is toohappy tomakeanoiseexceptbyafewtinklinglispingbirdsandtricklingrillsWhataplacetolivewhataplacetodieandbeburiedinTherecertainlymenwouldliveforeverandlaughatdeathandthegraveTheretheycouldhavenosuchthoughtsasareassociatedwiththevillagegraveyardmdashthatmakeagraveoutofoneofthosemoistevergreenhummocks

DieandbeburiedwhowillImeantoliveherestillMynaturegrowsevermoreyoungTheprimitivepinesamongIamremindedbymyjourneyhowexceedinglynewthiscountrystillisYouhaveonlytotravelforafewdaysintotheinteriorandbackpartsevenofmanyof the old States to come to that very America which the Northmen andCabotandGosnoldandSmithandRaleighvisitedIfColumbuswasthefirsttodiscovertheislandsAmericusVespuciusandCabotandthePuritansandwetheirdescendantshavediscoveredonlytheshoresofAmericaWhiletheRepublichasalreadyacquiredahistoryworld-wideAmericaisstillunsettledandunexploredLiketheEnglishinNewHollandweliveonlyontheshoresofacontinentevenyetandhardlyknowwhere theriverscomefromwhichfloatournavyTheverytimberandboardsandshinglesofwhichourhousesaremadegrewbutyesterdayinawildernesswheretheIndianstillhuntsandthemoose runswildNewYorkhasherwildernesswithinherownbordersand though the sailors of Europe are familiar with the soundings of herHudsonandFultonlongsinceinventedthesteamboatonitswatersanIndianis still necessary to guide her scientific men to its headwaters in theAdirondackcountryHaveweevensomuchasdiscoveredandsettledtheshoresLetamantravelonfootalongthecoastfromthePassamaquoddytotheSabineortotheRioBravo or to wherever the end is now if he is swift enough to overtake itfaithfully following the windings of every inlet and of every cape andsteppingtothemusicofthesurfmdashwithadesolatefishingtownonceaweekandacitysportonceamonthtocheerhimandputtingupatthelighthouseswhen there are anymdashand tell me if it looks like a discovered and settledcountryandnotratherforthemostpartlikeadesolateislandandNo-MansLandWehaveadvancedbyleapstothePacificandleftmanyalesserOregonandCaliforniaunexploredbehindusThoughtherailroadandthe telegraphhavebeen establishedon the shores ofMaine the Indian still looks out fromherinteriormountainsoverall these to theseaTherestands thecityofBangorfiftymilesupthePenobscotattheheadofnavigationforvesselsofthelargestclasstheprincipallumberdepotonthiscontinentwithapopulationoftwelvethousandlikeastarontheedgeofnightstillhewingattheforestsofwhichitisbuiltalreadyoverflowingwiththeluxuriesandrefinementofEuropeandsending its vessels to Spain to England and to the West Indies for itsgroceriesmdashandyetonlyafewaxemenhavegoneupriverintothehowlingwildernesswhichfeedsitThebearanddeerarestillfoundwithinits limits

andthemooseasheswimsthePenobscotisentangledamiditsshippingandtakenbyforeignsailorsinitsharborTwelvemilesinthereartwelvemilesofrailroadareOronoandtheIndianIslandthehomeofthePenobscottribeandthen commence the batteau and the canoe and themilitary road and sixtymilesabovethecountryisvirtuallyunmappedandunexploredandtherestillwavesthevirginforestoftheNewWorld

CHESUNCOOK

AtfiveSeptember131853IleftBostoninthesteamerforBangorbytheoutsidecourseItwasawarmandstillnightmdashwarmerprobablyonthewaterthan on the landmdashand the sea was as smooth as a small lake in summermerelyrippledThepassengerswentsingingonthedeckasinaparlortilltenoclock We passed a vessel on her beam-ends on a rock just outside theislandsandsomeofusthoughtthatshewastheraptshipwhichranonhersidesolowThatshedrankwaterandherkeelploughedairnot considering that therewas nowind and that shewas under bare polesNowwe have left the islands behind and are off NahantWe behold thosefeatureswhich the discoverers saw apparently unchanged Nowwe see theCape Ann lights and now pass near a small village-like fleet of mackerelfishers at anchor probablyoffGloucesterThey saluteuswith a shout fromtheir lowdecks but I understand their Good-evening tomean Dont runagainstme sir From thewonders of the deepwe go below to yet deepersleepAnd then theabsurdityofbeingwakedup in thenightbyamanwhowants the jobofblackingyourboots It ismore inevitable thanseasicknessand may have something to do with it It is like the ducking you get oncrossingthelinethefirsttimeItrustedthattheseoldcustomswereabolishedTheymightwith the samepropriety insist onblackingyour face I heardofonemanwhocomplainedthatsomebodyhadstolenhisbootsinthenightandwhenhefoundthemhewantedtoknowwhattheyhaddonetothemmdashtheyhad spoiled themmdashhe never put that stuff on them and the bootblacknarrowlyescapedpayingdamagesAnxioustogetoutofthewhalesbellyIroseearlyandjoinedsomeoldsaltswhoweresmokingbyadimlightonashelteredpartofthedeckWewerejustgetting into the riverTheyknewall about itofcourse Iwasproud to findthat I had stood the voyage so well andwas not in the least digestedWebrushedupandwatchedthefirstsignsofdawnthroughanopenportbutthedayseemedtohangfireWeinquiredthetimenoneofmycompanionshada

chronometer At length an African prince rushed by observing TwelveoclockgentlemenandblewoutthelightItwasmoonriseSoIslunkdownintothemonstersbowelsagainThe first land we make is Monhegan Island before dawn and next StGeorgesIslandsseeingtwoorthreelightsWhiteheadwithitsbarerocksandfunerealbell isinterestingNextIrememberthattheCamdenHillsattractedmy eyes and afterward the hills about FrankfortWe reachedBangor aboutnoonWhenIarrivedmycompanionthatwastobehadgoneupriverandengagedan Indian JoeAitteon a sonof theGovernor togowithus toChesuncookLake Joe had conducted two white men a-moose-hunting in the samedirectiontheyearbeforeHearrivedbycarsatBangorthateveningwithhiscanoeandacompanionSabattisSolomonwhowasgoingtoleaveBangorthefollowingMondaywithJoesfatherbywayofthePenobscotandjoinJoeinmoose-huntingatChesuncookwhenwehaddonewithhimTheytooksupperatmyfriendshouseandlodgedinhisbarnsayingthattheyshouldfareworsethanthatinthewoodsTheyonlymadeWatchbarkalittlewhentheycametothedoorinthenightforwaterforhedoesnotlikeIndiansThe next morning Joe and his canoe were put on board the stage forMooseheadLakesixtyandoddmilesdistantanhourbeforewestartedinanopen wagon We carried hard-bread pork smoked beef tea sugar etcseemingly enough for a regiment the sight of which brought togetherremindedmebywhatignoblemeanswehadmaintainedourgroundhithertoWe went by the Avenue Road which is quite straight and very goodnorthwestward toward Moosehead Lake through more than a dozenflourishing towns with almost every one its academymdashnot one of whichhoweverisonmyGeneralAtlaspublishedalasin1824somucharetheybeforetheageorIbehinditTheearthmusthavebeenconsiderablylightertotheshouldersofGeneralAtlasthenIt rainedall thisdayand till themiddleof thenext forenoonconcealing thelandscapealmostentirelybutwehadhardlygotoutofthestreetsofBangorbeforeIbegan tobeexhilaratedby thesightof thewildfirandspruce topsand those of other primitive evergreens peering through the mist in thehorizonItwas like thesightandodorofcaketoaschoolboyHewhoridesandkeepsthebeatentrackstudiesthefenceschieflyNearBangorthefence-posts on account of the frosts heaving them in the clayey soil were notplanted in the ground but weremortised into a transverse horizontal beamlying on the surface Afterwards the prevailing fences were log ones withsometimesaVirginiafenceorelserailsslantedovercrossedstakesandthesezigzaggedorplayedleap-frogallthewaytothelakekeepingjustaheadofusAftergettingoutofthePenobscotvalleythecountrywasunexpectedlylevel

orconsistedofveryevenandequal swells for twentyor thirtymilesneverrisingabovethegenerallevelbutaffordingitissaidaverygoodprospectinclearweatherwithfrequentviewsofKtaadnmdashstraight roadsand longhillsThe houses were far apart commonly small and of one story but framedTherewasverylittlelandundercultivationyettheforestdidnotoftenbordertheroadThestumpswerefrequentlyashighasonesheadshowingthedepthofthesnowsThewhitehay-capsdrawnoversmallstacksofbeansorcorninthefieldsonaccountoftherainwereanovelsighttomeWesawlargeflocksof pigeons and several times camewithin a rod or two of partridges in theroadMycompanionsaidthatinonejourneyoutofBangorheandhissonhadshot sixty partridges from his buggy The mountain-ash was now veryhandsome as also the wayfarers-tree or hobble-bush with its ripe purpleberries mixed with red The Canada thistle an introduced plant was theprevailingweedallthewaytothelaketheroadsideinmanyplacesandfieldsnotlongclearedbeingdenselyfilledwithitaswithacroptotheexclusionofeverything else There were also whole fields full of ferns now rusty andwithering which in older countries are commonly confined to wet groundTherewereveryfewflowersevenallowingforthelatenessoftheseasonItchanced that I sawnoasters inbloomalong the road for fiftymiles thoughtheyweresoabundanttheninMassachusettsmdashexceptinoneplaceoneortwoof the Aster acuminatusmdashand no golden-rods till within twenty miles ofMonsonwhere I saw a three-ribbed one Thereweremany late buttercupshoweverandthetwofire-weedserechthitesandepilobiumcommonlywherethere had been a burning and at last the pearly everlasting I noticedoccasionally very long troughswhich supplied the roadwithwater andmycompanion said that threedollars annuallyweregrantedby theState to oneman in each school-district who provided andmaintained a suitablewater-trough by the roadside for the use of travelersmdasha piece of intelligence asrefreshingtomeasthewateritselfThatlegislaturedidnotsitinvainItwasan Oriental act which made me wish that I was still farther down EastmdashanotherMainelawwhichIhopewemaygetinMassachusettsThatStateisbanishingbar-roomsfromitshighwaysandconductingthemountainspringsthitherThe country was first decidedly mountainous in Garland Sangerville andonwards twenty-fiveor thirtymiles fromBangorAtSangervillewherewestoppedatmid-afternoontowarmanddryourselvesthelandlordtoldusthathehadfoundawildernesswherewefoundhimAtaforkintheroadbetweenAbbotandMonsonabouttwentymilesfromMooseheadLakeIsawaguide-postsurmountedbyapairofmoosehornsspreadingfourorfivefeetwiththewordMonsonpaintedononebladeandthenameofsomeothertownontheotherTheyaresometimesusedforornamentalhat-treestogetherwithdeershornsinfrontentriesbutaftertheexperiencewhichIshallrelateItrustthat

IshallhaveabetterexcuseforkillingamoosethanthatImayhangmyhatonhishornsWereachedMonsonfiftymilesfromBangorandthirteenfromthelakeafterdarkAtfouroclockthenextmorninginthedarkandstillintherainwepursuedour journey Close to the academy in this town they have erected a sort ofgallowsforthepupilstopracticeonIthoughtthattheymightaswellhangatonce allwhoneed to go through such exercises in sonewa countrywherethere isnothing tohinder their livinganoutdoor lifeBetteromitBlair andtaketheairThecountryaboutthesouthendofthelakeisquitemountainousand the road began to feel the effects of it There is one hill which it iscalculatedittakestwenty-fiveminutestoascendInmanyplacestheroadwasin that condition called repaired having just beenwhittled into the requiredsemicylindrical form with the shovel and scraper with all the softestinequalitiesinthemiddlelikeahogsbackwiththebristlesupandJehuwasexpectedtokeepastrideofthespineAsyoulookedoffeachsideofthebaresphereintothehorizontheditcheswereawfultobeholdmdashavasthollownesslike that between Saturn and his ring At a tavern hereabouts the hostlergreeted our horse as an old acquaintance though he did not remember thedriverHesaidthathehadtakencareofthatlittlemareforashorttimeayearortwobeforeattheMountKineoHouseandthoughtshewasnotinasgoodconditionas thenEveryman tohis trade IamnotacquaintedwithasinglehorseintheworldnoteventheonethatkickedmeAlreadywehadthoughtthatwesawMooseheadLakefromahilltopwhereanextensivefogfilledthedistantlowlandsbutweweremistakenItwasnottillwewerewithinamileortwoofitssouthendthatwegotourfirstviewofitmdasha suitably wild-looking sheet of water sprinkled with small low islandswhichwerecoveredwithshaggyspruceandotherwildwoodmdashseenovertheinfantportofGreenvillewithmountainsoneachsideandfarinthenorthandasteamerssmoke-piperisingabovearoofApairofmoose-hornsornamentedacornerofthepublichousewhereweleftourhorseandafewrodsdistantlaythe small steamerMoosehead Captain King There was no village and nosummer road any farther in this direction but a winter road that is onepassableonlywhendeepsnowcoversitsinequalitiesfromGreenvilleuptheeastsideofthelaketoLilyBayabouttwelvemilesIwasherefirstintroducedtoJoeHehadriddenallthewayontheoutsideofthe stage the day before in the rain giving way to ladies and was wellwettedAsitstillrainedheaskedifweweregoingtoputitthroughHewasa good-looking Indian twenty-four years old apparently of unmixed bloodshortandstoutwithabroadfaceandreddishcomplexionandeyesmethinksnarrowerandmoreturnedupattheoutercornersthanoursansweringtothedescriptionofhisraceBesideshisunderclothingheworearedflannelshirt

woolenpantsandablackKossuthhattheordinarydressofthelumbermanand to a considerable extent of the Penobscot IndianWhen afterward hehad occasion to take off his shoes and stockings I was struck with thesmallness of his feet He had worked a good deal as a lumberman andappearedtoidentifyhimselfwiththatclassHewastheonlyoneofthepartywhopossessedanindia-rubberjacketThetopstriporedgeofhiscanoewaswornnearlythroughbyfrictiononthestageAt eight oclock the steamer with her bell and whistle scaring the moosesummonedusonboardShewasawell-appointedlittleboatcommandedbyagentlemanly captainwith patent life-seats andmetallic life-boat anddinneronboardifyouwishSheischieflyusedbylumberersforthetransportationofthemselvestheirboatsandsuppliesbutalsobyhuntersandtouristsTherewasanothersteamernamedAmphitritelaidupclosebybutapparentlyhername was not more trite than her hull There were also two or three largesailboats inportThesebeginningsofcommerceona lake in thewildernessareveryinterestingmdashtheselargerwhitebirdsthatcometokeepcompanywiththegullsTherewerebutfewpassengersandnotonefemaleamongthemaStFrancisIndianwithhiscanoeandmoose-hidestwoexplorersforlumberthreemenwholandedatSandbarIslandandagentlemanwholivesonDeerIslandelevenmilesupthelakeandownsalsoSugarIslandbetweenwhichand theformer thesteamerruns these I thinkwereallbesideourselves Inthesaloonwassomekindofmusical instrumentmdashcherubimorseraphimmdashtosoothetheangrywavesandthereveryproperlywastackedupthemapofthepubliclandsofMaineandMassachusettsacopyofwhichIhadinmypocketThe heavy rain confining us to the saloon awhile I discoursed with theproprietor of Sugar Island on the condition of the world in Old TestamenttimesButat length leaving this subjectas freshaswe found ithe toldmethathehadlivedaboutthislaketwentyorthirtyyearsandyethadnotbeentotheheadofitfortwenty-oneyearsHefacestheotherwayTheexplorershada finenewbirchonboard larger thanours inwhich theyhadcomeup thePiscataquisfromHowlandandtheyhadhadseveralmessesoftroutalreadyTheyweregoingtotheneighborhoodofEagleandChamberlainlakesorthehead-watersoftheStJohnandofferedtokeepuscompanyasfaraswewentThelaketo-daywasrougherthanIfoundtheoceaneithergoingorreturningand Joe remarked that itwould swamphisbirchOffLilyBay it is adozenmileswidebutitismuchbrokenbyislandsThesceneryisnotmerelywildbutvariedandinterestingmountainswereseenfartherorneareronallsidesbut thenorthwest theirsummitsnowlost in thecloudsbutMountKineo isthe principal feature of the lake and more exclusively belongs to it AfterleavingGreenvilleat thefootwhichis thenucleusofa townsomeeightortenyearsoldyouseebutthreeorfourhousesforthewholelengthofthelakeoraboutfortymiles threeof themthepublichousesatwhichthesteameris

advertised to stop and the shore is an unbrokenwilderness The prevailingwood seemed to be spruce fir birch and rock maple You could easilydistinguishthehardwoodfromthesoftorblackgrowthasitiscalledatagreatdistancetheformerbeingsmoothround-toppedandlightgreenwithaboweryandcultivatedlookMountKineoatwhich theboat touched isapeninsulawithanarrowneckaboutmidwaythelakeontheeastsideThecelebratedprecipiceisontheeastorlandsideofthisandissohighandperpendicularthatyoucanjumpfromthetopmanyhundredfeetintothewaterwhichmakesupbehindthepointAmanon board told us that an anchor had been sunkninety fathoms at itsbasebeforereachingbottomProbablyitwillbediscoverederelongthatsomeIndian maiden jumped off it for love once for true love never could havefoundapathmoretoitsmindWepassedquiteclosetotherockheresinceitisaveryboldshoreandIobservedmarksofariseoffourorfivefeetonitTheStFrancisIndianexpectedtotakeinhisboyherebuthewasnotatthelandingThefatherssharpeyeshoweverdetectedacanoewithhisboyinitfarawayunder themountain thoughnooneelsecouldsee itWhere is thecanoeaskedthecaptainIdontseeitbutheheldonneverthelessandbyandbyithoveinsightWe reached the head of the lake about noon The weather had in themeanwhile clearedup though themountainswere still cappedwith cloudsSeen from this pointMountKineo and twoother alliedmountains rangingwithitnortheasterlypresentedaverystrongfamilylikenessas ifallcast inone mould The steamer here approached a long pier projecting from thenorthernwildernessandbuiltofsomeof its logsandwhistledwherenotacabinnoramortalwastobeseenTheshorewasquitelowwithflatrocksonitoverhungwithblackasharbor-vitaeligetcwhichatfirstlookedasiftheydidnotcareawhistle forusTherewasnotasinglecabman tocryCoachorinveigleus to theUnitedStatesHotelAt length aMrHinckleywhohas acampattheotherendofthecarryappearedwithatruckdrawnbyanoxandahorseoverarudelog-railwaythroughthewoodsThenextthingwastogetour canoe and effects over the carry from this lake oneof the heads of theKennebec into thePenobscotRiverThis railway from the lake to the riveroccupiedthemiddleofaclearingtwoorthreerodswideandperfectlystraightthrough the forestWewalked acrosswhileourbaggagewasdrawnbehindMy companion went ahead to be ready for partridges while I followedlookingattheplantsThiswas an interesting botanical locality for one coming from the south tocommencewithformanyplantswhichareratherrareandoneortwowhichare not found at all in the eastern part ofMassachusetts grew abundantlybetweentherailsmdashasLabrador-teaKalmiaglaucaCanadablueberry(which

wasstillinfruitandasecondtimeinbloom)ClintoniaandLinnaeligaborealiswhich last a lumberer called moxon creeping snowberry painted trilliumlarge-flowered bellwort etc I fancied that the Aster Radula Diplopappusumbellatus Solidago lanceolata red trumpet-weed and many others whichwereconspicuouslyinbloomontheshoreofthelakeandonthecarryhadapeculiarlywildandprimitivelookthereThespruceandfirtreescrowdedtothetrackoneachsidetowelcomeusthearbor-vitaeligwithitschangingleavespromptedustomakehasteandthesightofthecanoebirchgaveusspiritstodo so Sometimes an evergreen just fallen lay across the trackwith its richburden of cones looking still fuller of life than our trees in the mostfavorablepositionsYoudidnotexpect to findsuchspruce trees in thewildwoods but they evidently attend to their toilets each morning even thereThroughsuchafrontyarddidweenterthatwildernessTherewasaveryslightriseabovethelakemdashthecountryappearinglikeandperhaps being partly a swampmdashand at length a gradual descent to thePenobscotwhichIwassurprisedtofindherealargestreamfromtwelvetofifteenrodswideflowingfromwesttoeastoratrightangleswiththelakeandnotmorethantwoandahalfmilesfromitThedistanceisnearlytwicetoogreatontheMapofthePublicLandsandonColtonsMapofMaineandRussellStreamisplacedtoofardownJacksonmakesMooseheadLaketobeninehundredandsixtyfeetabovehighwater inPortlandharbor It ishigherthanChesuncookforthelumberersconsiderthePenobscotwherewestruckittwenty-fivefeetlowerthanMooseheadthougheightmilesaboveitissaidtobe thehighest so that thewatercanbemade to floweitherwayand theriver falls a gooddeal betweenhere andChesuncookThe carry-man calledthis about one hundred and forty miles above Bangor by the river or twohundred from the ocean and fifty-fivemiles belowHiltons on theCanadaroadthefirstclearingabovewhichisfourandahalfmilesfromthesourceofthePenobscotAtthenorthendofthecarryinthemidstofaclearingofsixtyacresormoretherewas a log campof theusual constructionwith somethingmore like ahouseadjoiningfortheaccommodationofthecarry-mansfamilyandpassinglumberers The bed ofwithered fir twigs smelled very sweet though reallyverydirtyTherewasalsoa store-houseon thebankof the rivercontainingporkflourironbatteauxandbircheslockedupWenowproceededtogetourdinnerwhichalwaysturnedouttobeteaandtopitchcanoesforwhichpurposealargeironpotlaypermanentlyonthebankThiswe did in companywith the explorers Both Indians andwhites use amixtureofrosinandgreasefor thispurpose that is for thepitchingnot thedinner Joe took a small brand from the fire and blew the heat and flameagainstthepitchonhisbirchandsomeltedandspreaditSometimesheput

hismouthoverthesuspectedspotandsuckedtoseeifitadmittedairandatone place where we stopped he set his canoe high on crossed stakes andpouredwaterintoitInarrowlywatchedhismotionsandlistenedattentivelytohisobservationsforwehademployedanIndianmainlythatImighthaveanopportunitytostudyhiswaysIheardhimswearoncemildlyduringthisoperationabouthisknifebeingasdullasahoemdashanaccomplishmentwhichhe owed to his intercoursewith thewhites and he remarked Weought tohavesometeabeforewestartweshallbehungrybeforewekillthatmooseAtmid-afternoonweembarkedonthePenobscotOurbirchwasnineteenandahalffeetlongbytwoandahalfatthewidestpartandfourteeninchesdeepwithin both ends alike and painted green which Joe thought affected thepitch andmade it leakThis I thinkwas amiddling-sizedoneThat of theexplorerswasmuchlargerthoughprobablynotmuchlongerThiscarriedusthreewithourbaggageweighinginallbetweenfivehundredandfiftyandsixhundredpoundsWehadtwoheavythoughslenderrock-maplepaddlesoneofthemofbirds-eyemapleJoeplacedbirch-barkonthebottomforustositonandslantedcedarsplintsagainstthecross-barstoprotectourbackswhilehehimselfsatuponacross-barinthesternThebaggageoccupiedthemiddleorwidestpartofthecanoeWealsopaddledbyturnsinthebowsnowsittingwithour legs extendednowsittinguponour legs andnow risinguponourkneesbutIfoundnoneofthesepositionsendurableandwasremindedofthecomplaintsoftheoldJesuitmissionariesofthetorturetheyenduredfromlongconfinement in constrained positions in canoes in their long voyages fromQuebectotheHuroncountrybutafterwardsIsatonthecross-barsorstoodupandexperiencednoinconvenienceItwasdeadwater foracoupleofmilesTheriverhadbeenraisedabout twofeet by the rain and lumberers were hoping for a flood sufficient to bringdownthelogsthatwereleft inthespringItsbanksweresevenoreightfeethighanddenselycoveredwithwhiteandblacksprucemdashwhichIthinkmustbethecommonesttreesthereaboutsmdashfirarbor-vitaeligcanoeyellowandblackbirchrockmountainandafewredmaplesbeechblackandmountainashthelarge-toothedaspenmanycivil-lookingelmsnowimbrownedalongthestream and at first a fewhemlocks alsoWe had not gone far before IwasstartledbyseeingwhatIthoughtwasanIndianencampmentcoveredwitharedflagonthebankandexclaimedCamptomycomradesIwasslowtodiscover that itwasaredmaplechangedbythefrostTheimmediateshoreswerealsodenselycoveredwiththespeckledalderredosiershrubbywillowsor sallows and the like There were a few yellow lily pads still left half-drowned along the sides and sometimes awhite oneMany fresh tracksofmoosewere visiblewhere thewaterwas shallow and on the shore the lilystemswerefreshlybittenoffbythem

After paddling about twomilesweparted companywith the explorers andturned upLobster Streamwhich comes in on the right from the southeastThiswassixoreightrodswideandappearedtorunnearlyparallelwiththePenobscotJoesaidthatitwassocalledfromsmallfresh-waterlobstersfoundin it It is theMatahumkeagof themapsMycompanionwished to look formoosesignsandintendedifitprovedworththewhiletocampupthatwaysincetheIndianadviseditOnaccountoftheriseofthePenobscotthewaterran up this stream to the pond of the same name one or two miles TheSpencerMountains east of the north end ofMooseheadLakewere now inplain sight in front of us The kingfisher flew before us the pigeonwoodpeckerwasseenandheardandnuthatchesandchickadeescloseathandJoesaidthattheycalledthechickadeekecunnilessuinhislanguageIwillnotvouch for the spelling of what possibly was never spelt before but IpronouncedafterhimtillhesaiditwoulddoWepassedclosetoawoodcockwhich stood perfectly still on the shorewith feathers puffed up as if sickThisJoesaidtheycallednipsquecohossusThekingfisherwasskuscumonsuckbearwaswassus Indian devil lunxus themountain-ash upahsis ThiswasveryabundantandbeautifulMoosetrackswerenotsofreshalongthisstreamexceptinasmallcreekaboutamileupitwherealargeloghadlodgedinthespringmarkedW-cross-girdle-crow-footWesawapairofmoose-hornsontheshoreandIaskedJoeifamoosehadshedthembuthesaidtherewasaheadattachedtothemandIknewthattheydidnotshedtheirheadsmorethanonceintheirlivesAfterascendingaboutamileandahalftowithinashortdistanceofLobsterLakewereturnedto thePenobscotJustbelowthemouthof theLobsterwefoundquickwater and the riverexpanded to twentyor thirty rods inwidthThemoose-trackswerequitenumerousandfreshhereWenoticedinagreatmanyplacesnarrowandwell-troddenpathsbywhichtheyhadcomedowntotheriverandwheretheyhadslidonthesteepandclayeybankTheirtrackswereeitherclosetotheedgeofthestreamthoseofthecalvesdistinguishablefromtheothersor inshallowwater theholesmadeby their feet in thesoftbottombeingvisibleforalongtimeTheywereparticularlynumerouswherethere was a small bay or pokelogan as it is called bordered by a strip ofmeadoworseparatedfromtheriverbya lowpeninsulacoveredwithcoarsegrasswool-grassetcwhereintheyhadwadedbackandforthandeatenthepadsWedetectedtheremainsofoneinsuchaspotAtoneplacewherewelandedtopickupasummerduckwhichmycompanionhadshotJoepeeledacanoebirchforbarkforhishunting-hornHethenaskedifwewerenotgoingtogettheotherduckforhissharpeyeshadseenanotherfallinthebushesalittlefartheralongandmycompanionobtaineditInowbegantonoticethebright red berries of the tree-cranberry which grows eight or ten feet highmingledwiththealdersandcornelalongtheshoreTherewaslesshardwood

thanatfirstAfterproceedingamileandthreequartersbelowthemouthoftheLobsterwereached about sundown a small island at the head of what Joe called theMoosehornDeadwater (theMoosehorn inwhich hewas going to hunt thatnight coming in about threemiles below) andon theupper endof thiswedecidedtocampOnapointatthelowerendlaythecarcassofamoosekilledamonthormorebeforeWeconcludedmerelytoprepareourcampandleaveour baggage here that all might be ready when we returned from moose-huntingThoughIhadnotcomea-huntingandfeltsomecompunctionsaboutaccompanyingthehuntersIwishedtoseeamoosenearathandandwasnotsorry to learn how the Indian managed to kill one I went as reporter orchaplain to the huntersmdashand the chaplain has been known to carry a gunhimselfAfterclearingasmallspaceamidthedensespruceandfir treeswecovered the damp groundwith a shingling of fir twigs andwhile Joewaspreparing his birch horn and pitching his canoemdashfor this had to be donewheneverwestoppedlongenoughtobuildafireandwastheprincipallaborwhichhe tookuponhimself at such timesmdashwecollected fuel for thenightlargewetandrottinglogswhichhadlodgedattheheadoftheislandforourhatchetwastoosmallforeffectivechoppingbutwedidnotkindleafirelestthemooseshouldsmellitJoesetupacoupleofforkedstakesandpreparedhalfadozenpolesreadytocastoneofourblanketsoverincaseitrainedinthe night which precaution however was omitted the next nightWe alsopluckedtheduckswhichhadbeenkilledforbreakfastWhilewewerethusengagedinthetwilightweheardfaintlyfromfardownthe streamwhat sounded like two strokes of awoodchoppers axe echoingdullythroughthegrimsolitudeWearewonttolikenmanysoundsheardatadistanceintheforesttothestrokeofanaxebecausetheyresembleeachotherunderthosecircumstancesandthatistheonewecommonlyhearthereWhenwetoldJoeofthisheexclaimedByGeorgeIllbetthatwasamooseTheymakeanoiselikethatThesesoundsaffectedusstrangelyandbytheirveryresemblancetoafamiliaronewheretheyprobablyhadsodifferentanoriginenhancedtheimpressionofsolitudeandwildnessAt starlightwe dropped down the streamwhichwas a deadwater for threemilesorasfarastheMoosehornJoetellingusthatwemustbeverysilentand he himselfmaking no noisewith his paddle while he urged the canoealongwitheffectiveimpulsesItwasastillnightandsuitableforthispurposemdashforifthereiswindthemoosewillsmellyoumdashandJoewasveryconfidentthatheshouldgetsomeTheHarvestMoonhadjustrisenandits levelraysbegan to light up the forest on our rightwhilewe glided downward in theshadeon the same side against the little breeze thatwas stirringThe loftyspiring topsof the spruceand firwereveryblackagainst the skyandmore

distinct thanbydaycloseborderingthisbroadavenueoneachsideandthebeautyofthesceneasthemoonroseabovetheforestitwouldnotbeeasytodescribeAbatflewoverourheadsandweheardafewfaintnotesofbirdsfromtimetotimeperhapsthemyrtle-birdforoneorthesuddenplungeofamusquashorsawonecrossingthestreambeforeusorheardthesoundofarill emptying in swollen by the recent rainAbout amile below the islandwhen the solitude seemed to be growingmore complete everymomentwesuddenly saw the light and heard the crackling of a fire on the bank anddiscoveredthecampofthetwoexplorerstheystandingbeforeitintheirredshirtsand talkingaloudof theadventuresandprofitsof thedayTheywerejust then speaking of a bargain in which as I understood somebody hadcleared twenty-five dollarsWe glided bywithout speaking close under thebankwithinacoupleofrodsof themandJoe takinghishorn imitatedthecallofthemoosetillwesuggestedthattheymightfireonusThiswasthelastwesawofthemandweneverknewwhethertheydetectedorsuspectedusIhaveoftenwishedsincethatIwaswiththemTheysearchfortimberoveragiven section climbing hills and often high trees to look off explore thestreamsbywhichitistobedrivenandthelikespendfiveorsixweeksinthewoods they two alone a hundred miles or more from any town roamingabout and sleeping on the ground where night overtakes them dependingchiefly on the provisions they carry with them though they do not declinewhatgametheycomeacrossandtheninthefalltheyreturnandmakereporttotheiremployersdeterminingthenumberofteamsthatwillberequiredthefollowing winter Experienced men get three or four dollars a day for thiswork It is a solitary and adventurous life and comes nearest to that of thetrapperoftheWestperhapsTheyworkeverwithagunaswellasanaxelettheir beards grow and livewithout neighbors not on anopenplain but farwithinawildernessThisdiscoveryaccountedfor thesoundswhichwehadheardanddestroyedthe prospect of seeing moose yet awhile At length when we had left theexplorersfarbehindJoelaiddownhispaddledrewforthhisbirchhornmdashastraightoneaboutfifteenincheslongandthreeorfourwideatthemouthtiedroundwithstripsofthesamebarkmdashandstandingupimitatedthecallofthemoosemdashugh-ugh-ughoroo-oo-oo-ooandthenaprolongedoo-o-o-o-o-o-o-o and listened attentively for several minutesWe asked himwhat kind ofnoise he expected to hear He said that if amoose heard it he guessedweshouldfindoutweshouldhearhimcominghalfamileoffhewouldcomeclosetoperhapsintothewaterandmycompanionmustwaittillhegotfairsightandthenaimjustbehindtheshoulderThemooseventureouttotheriversidetofeedanddrinkatnightEarlierintheseasonthehuntersdonotuseahorntocallthemoutbutstealuponthemas

theyarefeedingalongthesidesof thestreamandoftenthefirstnoticetheyhave of one is the sound of thewater dropping from itsmuzzleAn IndianwhomIheardimitatethevoiceofthemooseandalsothatofthecaribouandthedeerusingamuchlongerhornthanJoes toldmethatthefirstcouldbeheard eight or tenmiles sometimes itwas a loud sort of bellowing soundclearer andmore sonorous than the lowing of cattle the caribous a sort ofsnortandthesmalldeerslikethatofalambAtlengthweturneduptheMoosehornwheretheIndiansatthecarryhadtoldusthattheykilledamoosethenightbeforeThisisaverymeanderingstreamonlya rodor two inwidthbut comparativelydeep coming inon the rightfitlyenoughnamedMoosehornwhetherfromitswindingsoritsinhabitantsItwasborderedhere and therebynarrowmeadowsbetween the streamandtheendlessforestaffordingfavorableplacesforthemoosetofeedandtocallthemoutonWeproceededhalfamileupthisas throughanarrowwindingcanalwherethetalldarkspruceandfirsandarbor-vitaeligtoweredonbothsidesinthemoonlightformingaperpendicularforest-edgeofgreatheightlikethespiresofaVeniceintheforestIntwoplacesstoodasmallstackofhayonthebankreadyforthelumberersuseinthewinterlookingstrangeenoughthereWethoughtofthedaywhenthismightbeabrookwindingthroughsmooth-shavenmeadowsonsomegentlemansgroundsandseenbymoonlight thenexceptingtheforestthatnowhemsitinhowlittlechangeditwouldappearAgain and again Joe called the moose placing the canoe close by somefavorable point ofmeadow for them to comeout on but listened in vain tohearonecomerushingthroughthewoodsandconcludedthattheyhadbeenhuntedtoomuchthereaboutsWesawmanytimeswhattoourimaginationslookedlikeagiganticmoosewithhishornspeeringfromouttheforestedgebutwe saw the forest only and not its inhabitants that night So at lastweturnedaboutTherewasnowa little fogon thewater though itwas a fineclear night above Therewere very few sounds to break the stillness of theforestSeveraltimesweheardthehootingofagreathornedowlasathomeand toldJoe thathewouldcallout themoose forhim forhemadeasoundconsiderably like thehorn but Joe answered that themoosehadheard thatsoundathousandtimesandknewbetterandoftenerstillwewerestartledbythe plunge of a musquash Once when Joe had called again and we werelistening for moose we heard come faintly echoing or creeping from farthroughthemoss-cladaislesadulldryrushingsoundwithasolidcoretoityetasifhalfsmotheredunderthegraspoftheluxuriantandfungus-likeforestlike the shutting of a door in some distant entry of the damp and shaggywildernessIfwehadnotbeentherenomortalhadhearditWhenweaskedJoe in awhisperwhat it was he answered Tree fall There is somethingsingularly grand and impressive in the sound of a tree falling in a perfectlycalmnightlikethisasiftheagencieswhichoverthrowitdidnotneedtobe

excitedbutworkedwithasubtledeliberateandconsciousforcelikeaboa-constrictorandmoreeffectivelythenthaneveninawindydayIfthereisanysuchdifferenceperhapsitisbecausetreeswiththedewsofthenightonthemareheavierthanbydayHavingreachedthecampabouttenoclockwekindledourfireandwenttobed Each of us had a blanket in which he lay on the fir twigs with hisextremitiestowardthefirebutnothingoverhisheadItwasworththewhiletoliedowninacountrywhereyoucouldaffordsuchgreatfiresthatwasonewholesideandthebrightsideofourworldWehadfirstrolledupalargelogsomeeighteeninchesthroughandtenfeetlongforabacklogtolastallnightandthenpiledonthetrees to theheightof threeorfourfeetnomatterhowgreen or damp In factwe burned asmuchwood that night aswouldwitheconomy and an air-tight stove last a poor family in one of our cities allwinter Itwasveryagreeableaswellas independent thus lying in theopenair and the fire kept our uncovered extremities warm enough The Jesuitmissionaries used to say that in their journeyswith the Indians inCanadatheylayonabedwhichhadneverbeenshakenupsincethecreationunlessbyearthquakes It is surprising with what impunity and comfort one who hasalwayslaininawarmbedinacloseapartmentandstudiouslyavoideddraftsofaircanliedownonthegroundwithoutashelterrollhimselfinablanketandsleepbeforeafire inafrostyautumnnight justafteralongrain-stormandevencomesoontoenjoyandvaluethefreshairI lay awake awhilewatching the ascent of the sparks through the firs andsometimes their descent in half-extinguished cinders on my blanket Theywereasinterestingasfireworksgoingupinendlesssuccessivecrowdseachafter an explosion in an eager serpentine course some to five or six rodsabove the tree-tops before theywent outWedonot suspect howmuchourchimneyshaveconcealedandnowair-tightstoveshavecometoconcealalltherestInthecourseofthenightIgotuponceortwiceandputfreshlogsonthefiremakingmycompanionscurluptheirlegsWhen we awoke in the morning (Saturday September 17) there wasconsiderablefrostwhiteningtheleavesWeheardthesoundofthechickadeeandafewfaintlylispingbirdsandalsoofducksinthewaterabouttheislandItookabotanicalaccountofstockofourdomainsbeforethedewwasoffandfound that the ground-hemlock or American yew was the prevailingundershrubWebreakfastedonteahard-breadandducksBeforethefoghadfairlyclearedawaywepaddleddownthestreamagainandwere soon past the mouth of the Moosehorn These twenty miles of thePenobscot between Moosehead and Chesuncook lakes are comparativelysmooth and a great part deadwater but from time to time it is shallowandrapid with rocks or gravel beds where you can wade across There is no

expanseofwaterandnobreakintheforestandthemeadowisamereedginghereandthereTherearenohillsneartherivernorwithinsightexceptoneortwodistantmountainsseeninafewplacesThebanksarefromsixtotenfeethighbutonceortwicerisegentlytohighergroundInmanyplacestheforeston the bank was but a thin strip letting the light through from some alderswamp ormeadow behind The conspicuous berry-bearing bushes and treesalong the shore were the red osier with its whitish fruit hobble-bushmountain-ash tree-cranberry choke-cherry now ripe alternate cornel andnakedviburnumFollowingJoesexampleIatethefruitofthelastandalsoof the hobble-bush but found them rather insipid and seedy I looked verynarrowly at the vegetation as we glided along close to the shore andfrequentlymade Joe turn aside forme to pluck a plant that Imight see bycomparisonwhatwasprimitiveaboutmynativeriverHorehoundhorse-mintand the sensitive ferngrewclose to the edge under thewillows and aldersandwool-grassontheislandsasalongtheAssabetRiverinConcordItwastoolateforflowersexceptafewastersgoldenrodsetcInseveralplaceswenoticedtheslightframeofacampsuchaswehadpreparedtosetupamidtheforestby theriversidewheresomelumberersorhuntershadpassedanightandsometimesstepscutinthemuddyorclayeybankinfrontofitWestopped to fish for troutat themouthofa small streamcalledRagmuffwhich came in from thewest about twomiles below theMoosehornHerewere the ruins of an old lumbering-camp and a small space which hadformerlybeenclearedandburnedoverwasnowdenselyovergrownwiththered cherry and raspberriesWhilewewere trying for trout Joe Indian-likewanderedoffuptheRagmuffonhisownerrandsandwhenwewerereadytostartwas farbeyondcallSowewerecompelled tomakea fireandgetourdinner here not to lose time Some dark reddish birdswith grayer females(perhaps purple finches) and myrtle-birds in their summer dress hoppedwithinsixoreightfeetofusandoursmokePerhapstheysmelledthefryingporkThelatterbirdorbothmadethelispingnoteswhichIhadheardintheforestTheysuggestedthatthefewsmallbirdsfoundinthewildernessareonmorefamiliartermswiththelumbermanandhunterthanthoseoftheorchardand clearing with the farmer I have since found the Canada jay andpartridgesboththeblackandthecommonequallytamethereasiftheyhadnotyetlearnedtomistrustmanentirelyThechickadeewhichisathomealikeintheprimitivewoodsandinourwood-lotsstillretainsitsconfidenceinthetownstoaremarkabledegreeJoeatlengthreturnedafteranhourandahalfandsaidthathehadbeentwomilesupthestreamexploringandhadseenamoosebutnothavingthegunhedidnotgethimWemadenocomplaintbutconcludedtolookoutforJoethenext timeHowever thismayhavebeen ameremistake forwehadnoreason to complain of him afterwardsAswe continued down the stream I

wassurprisedtohearhimwhistlingOSusannaandseveralothersuchairswhile his paddle urged us along Once he said Yes sir-ee His commonwordwasSartainHepaddledasusualononesideonlygivingthebirchanimpulsebyusingthesideasafulcrumIaskedhimhowtheribswerefastenedto the side railsHeanswered Idontknow InevernoticedTalkingwithhimaboutsubsistingwhollyonwhatthewoodsyieldedmdashgamefishberriesetcmdashIsuggestedthathisancestorsdidsobutheansweredthathehadbeenbroughtupinsuchawaythathecouldnotdoitYessaidhethatsthewaytheygotalivinglikewildfellowswildasbearsByGeorgeIshantgointothewoodswithout provisionmdashhard-bread pork etcHe had brought on abarrelofhard-breadandstoreditatthecarryforhishuntingHoweverthoughhewasaGovernorssonhehadnotlearnedtoreadAtoneplacebelowthisontheeastsidewherethebankwashigheranddrierthan usual rising gently from the shore to a slight elevation some one hadfelled the trees over twenty or thirty acres and left themdrying in order toburnThiswastheonlypreparationforahousebetweentheMooseheadCarryandChesuncookbut therewasnohutnor inhabitants thereyetThepioneerthusselectsasiteforhishousewhichwillperhapsprovethegermofatownMyeyeswereallthewhileonthetreesdistinguishingbetweentheblackandwhite spruce and the fir You paddle along in a narrow canal through anendless forest and thevision I have inmyminds eye still is of the smalldarkandsharptopsof tall firandsprucetreesandpagoda-likearbor-vitaeligscrowdedtogetheroneachsidewithvarioushardwoodsintermixedSomeofthe arbor-vitaeligs were at least sixty feet high The hard woods occasionallyoccurring exclusivelywere lesswild tomy eye I fancied them ornamentalgrounds with farmhouses in the rear The canoe and yellow birch beechmaple and elm are Saxon and Norman but the spruce and fir and pinesgenerally are Indian The soft engravingswhich adorn the annuals give noideaofastreaminsuchawildernessasthisTheroughsketchesinJacksonsReportsontheGeologyofMaineanswermuchbetterAtoneplacewesawasmallgroveofslendersaplingwhitepinestheonlycollectionofpinesthatIsaw on this voyage Here and there however was a full-grown tall andslender but defective onewhat lumbermen call a konchus treewhich theyascertainwiththeiraxesorbytheknotsIdidnotlearnwhetherthiswordwasIndianorEnglishItremindedmeoftheGreekκόγχηaconchorshellandIamusedmyselfwith fancying that itmightsignify thedeadsoundwhich thetreesyieldwhenstruckAlltherestofthepineshadbeendrivenoffHowfarmengoforthematerialoftheirhousesTheinhabitantsofthemostcivilizedcitiesinallagessendintofarprimitiveforestsbeyondtheboundsoftheircivilizationwherethemooseandbearandsavagedwellfortheirpineboardsforordinaryuseAndontheotherhandthesavagesoonreceivesfrom

citiesironarrow-pointshatchetsandgunstopointhissavagenesswithThe solidandwell-defined fir-tops like sharpand regular spearheadsblackagainst the sky gave a peculiar dark and sombre look to the forest Thespruce-tops have a similar butmore ragged outline their shafts alsomerelyfeatheredbelowThefirsweresomewhatoftenerregularanddensepyramidsI was struck by this universal spiring upward of the forest evergreens Thetendencyis toslenderspiringtopswhiletheyarenarrowerbelowNotonlythe spruce and fir but even the arbor-vitaelig and white pine unlike the softspreading second-growth of which I saw none all spire upwards lifting adensespearheadofconestothelightandairatanyratewhiletheirbranchesstraggleafterastheymayasIndianslifttheballovertheheadsofthecrowdin their desperate game In this they resemble grasses as also palmssomewhatThehemlockiscommonlyatent-likepyramidfromthegroundtoitssummitAfter passing through some long rips and by a large islandwe reached aninterestingpartoftherivercalledthePineStreamDeadwateraboutsixmilesbelow Ragmuff where the river expanded to thirty rods in width and hadmany islands in it with elms and canoe-birches now yellowing along theshoreandwegotourfirstsightofKtaadnHereabouttwooclockweturnedupasmallbranchthreeorfourrodswidewhichcomes inon the right from the south calledPineStream to look formoose signsWe had gone but a few rods beforewe saw very recent signsalongthewatersedge themudliftedupby their feetbeingquitefreshandJoedeclaredthattheyhadgonealongtherebutashorttimebeforeWesoonreachedasmallmeadowontheeastsideatanangleinthestreamwhichwasfor themostpartdenselycoveredwithaldersAswewereadvancingalongthe edge of this rathermore quietly than usual perhaps on account of thefreshnessofthesignsmdashthedesignbeingtocampupthisstreamifitpromisedwellmdashIheardaslightcracklingoftwigsdeepinthealdersandturnedJoesattention to itwhereuponhebegan topush the canoeback rapidly andwehad receded thus half a dozen rods when we suddenly spied two moosestanding just on the edge of the open part of the meadow which we hadpassednotmorethansixorsevenrodsdistantlookingroundthealdersatusTheymademethinkofgreatfrightenedrabbitswiththeirlongearsandhalf-inquisitive half-frightened looks the true denizens of the forest (I saw atonce) fillingavacuumwhichnow first Idiscoveredhadnotbeen filled formemdashmoose-menwood-eaters theword is said tomeanmdashclad in a sort ofVermontgrayorhomespunOurNimrodowingtotheretrogrademovementwasnowthefarthestfromthegamebutbeingwarnedofitsneighborhoodhehastilystoodupandwhileweduckedfiredoverourheadsonebarrelattheforemostwhichalonehesawthoughhedidnotknowwhatkindofcreatureit

waswhereuponthisonedashedacrossthemeadowandupahighbankonthenortheastsorapidlyastoleavebutanindistinctimpressionofitsoutlinesonmymindAt thesame instant theotherayoungonebutas tallasahorseleaped out into the stream in full sight and there stood cowering for amomentorratheritsdisproportionatelownessbehindgaveitthatappearanceandutteringtwoorthreetrumpetingsqueaksIhaveanindistinctrecollectionofseeingtheoldonepauseaninstantonthetopofthebankinthewoodslooktowarditsshiveringyoungandthendashawayagainThesecondbarrelwasleveledat thecalfandwhenweexpected tosee itdrop in thewaterafteralittlehesitationittoogotoutofthewateranddashedupthehillthoughinasomewhatdifferentdirectionAllthiswastheworkofafewsecondsandourhunterhavingneverseenamoosebeforedidnotknowbut theyweredeerfor they stoodpartly in thewaternorwhetherhehad firedat the sameonetwiceornotFromthestyleinwhichtheywentoffandthefactthathewasnotusedtostandingupandfiringfromacanoeIjudgedthatweshouldnotseeanythingmoreofthemTheIndiansaidthattheywereacowandhercalfmdasha yearling or perhaps two years old for they accompany their dams solongbutformypartIhadnotnoticedmuchdifferenceintheirsizeItwasbuttwoorthreerodsacrossthemeadowtothefootofthebankwhichlikealltheworldthereaboutswasdenselywoodedbutIwassurprisedtonoticethatassoonas themoosehadpassedbehindtheveilof thewoods therewasnosoundof footsteps tobeheard from the soft dampmosswhich carpets thatforest and long beforewe landed perfect silence reigned Joe said If youwoundemmoosemesuregetemWealllandedatonceMycompanionreloadedtheIndianfastenedhisbirchthrewoffhishatadjustedhiswaistbandseized thehatchetandsetoutHetoldmeafterwardcasuallythatbeforewelandedhehadseenadropofbloodonthebankwhenitwastwoor threerodsoffHeproceededrapidlyupthebank and through thewoodswith a peculiar elastic noiseless and stealthytreadlookingtorightandleftonthegroundandsteppinginthefainttracksof thewoundedmoosenowand thenpointing insilence toasingledropofblood on the handsome shining leaves of the Clintonia borealis which onevery side covered thegroundor toadry fern stem freshlybroken all thewhile chewing some leaf or else the spruce gum I followed watching hismotionsmorethanthetrailofthemooseAfterfollowingthetrailaboutfortyrodsinaprettydirectcoursesteppingoverfallentreesandwindingbetweenstanding ones he at length lost it for there weremany other moose-tracksthereandreturningoncemoretothelastblood-staintraceditalittlewayandlostitagainandtoosoonIthoughtforagoodhuntergaveitupentirelyHetraced a few steps also the tracks of the calf but seeing no blood soonrelinquishedthesearchIobservedwhilehewastrackingthemooseacertainreticenceormoderation

in him He did not communicate several observations of interest which hemade as a whitemanwould have done though theymay have leaked outafterwardAtanothertimewhenweheardaslightcracklingoftwigsandhelanded to reconnoitrehe stepped lightlyandgracefully stealing through thebusheswiththeleastpossiblenoiseinawayinwhichnowhitemandoesmdashasitwerefindingaplaceforhisfooteachtimeAbout half an hour after seeing themoosewe pursued our voyage upPineStreamandsooncomingtoapartwhichwasveryshoalandalsorapidwetookoutthebaggageandproceededtocarryitroundwhileJoegotupwiththecanoealoneWewerejustcompletingourportageandIwasabsorbedintheplantsadmiringtheleavesoftheAstermacrophyllustenincheswideandpluckingtheseedsofthegreatround-leavedorchiswhenJoeexclaimedfromthe stream that he had killed amoose He had found the cowmoose lyingdeadbutquitewarminthemiddleofthestreamwhichwassoshallowthatitrestedonthebottomwithhardlyathirdofitsbodyabovewaterItwasaboutan hour after itwas shot and itwas swollenwithwater It had run about ahundredrodsandsoughtthestreamagaincuttingoffaslightbendNodoubtabetterhunterwouldhavetrackedittothisspotatonceIwassurprisedatitsgreat size horse-like but Joe said it was not a large cow moose Mycompanion went in search of the calf again I took hold of the ears of themoosewhileJoepushedhiscanoedown-streamtowardafavorableshoreandsowemadeoutthoughwithsomedifficultyitslongnosefrequentlystickinginthebottomtodragitintostillshallowerwaterItwasabrownish-blackorperhaps a dark iron-gray on the back and sides but lighter beneath and infront I took the cord which served for the canoes painter and with Joesassistance measured it carefully the greatest distances first making a knoteachtimeThepainterbeingwantedIreducedthesemeasuresthatnightwithequal care to lengths and fractions of my umbrella beginning with thesmallestmeasuresanduntyingtheknotsasIproceededandwhenwearrivedatChesuncookthenextdayfindingatwo-footrulethereIreducedthelasttofeet and inches andmoreover Imademyself a two-foot ruleof a thin andnarrowstripofblackashwhichwouldfoldupconvenientlytosixinchesAllthispains I tookbecause Ididnotwish tobeobliged tosaymerely that themoose was very large Of the various dimensions which I obtained I willmention only two The distance from the tips of the hoofs of the fore feetstretchedouttothetopofthebackbetweentheshoulderswassevenfeetandfive inches Icanhardlybelievemyownmeasure for this isabout two feetgreater than the height of a tall horse (Indeed I am now satisfied that thismeasurementwasincorrectbuttheothermeasuresgivenhereIcanwarranttobe correct having proved them in amore recent visit to thosewoods) Theextreme lengthwas eight feet and two inchesAnother cowmoosewhich Ihavesincemeasuredinthosewoodswithatapewasjustsixfeetfromthetip

ofthehooftotheshouldersandeightfeetlongasshelayWhenafterwardIaskedanIndianatthecarryhowmuchtallerthemalewasheansweredEighteeninchesandmademeobservetheheightofacross-stakeoverthefiremorethanfourfeetfromthegroundtogivemesomeideaofthedepthofhischestAnotherIndianatOldtowntoldmethattheywereninefeethightothetopofthebackandthatonewhichhetriedweighedeighthundredpoundsThelengthofthespinalprojectionsbetweentheshouldersisverygreatAwhitehunterwhowas thebestauthorityamonghunters that Icould have told me that the male was not eighteen inches taller than thefemaleyetheagreedthathewassometimesninefeethighto the topof thebackandweighedathousandpoundsOnlythemalehashornsandtheyrisetwo feet or more above the shouldersmdashspreading three or four andsometimes six feetmdashwhichwouldmake him in all sometimes eleven feethighAccordingtothiscalculationthemooseisastallthoughitmaynotbeas large as thegreat Irish elkMegacerosHibernicus of a formerperiod ofwhichMantellsaysthatitveryfarexceededinmagnitudeanylivingspeciesthe skeletonbeing upwardof ten feethigh from theground to thehighestpoint of the antlers Joe said that though themoose shed thewhole hornannuallyeachnewhornhasanadditionalprongbutIhavenoticedthattheysometimeshavemoreprongsononesidethanontheotherIwasstruckwiththedelicacyandtendernessofthehoofswhichdivideveryfarupandtheonehalfcouldbepressedverymuchbehind theother thusprobablymaking theanimalsurer-footedontheunevengroundandslipperymoss-coveredlogsoftheprimitive forestTheywereveryunlike the stiff andbattered feetofourhorsesandoxenThebarehornypartoftheforefootwasjustsixincheslongandthetwoportionscouldbeseparatedfourinchesattheextremitiesThe moose is singularly grotesque and awkward to look atWhy should itstandsohighattheshouldersWhyhavesolongaheadWhyhavenotailtospeakofforinmyexaminationIoverlookeditentirelyNaturalistssayit isaninchandahalflongItremindedmeatonceofthecamelopardhighbeforeand lowbehindmdashandnowonder for like it it is fitted tobrowseon treesThe upper lip projected two inches beyond the lower for this purpose ThiswasthekindofmanthatwasathomethereforasnearasIcanlearnthathasnever been the residence but rather the hunting-ground of the Indian ThemoosewillperhapsonedaybecomeextinctbuthownaturallythenwhenitexistsonlyasafossilrelicandunseenasthatmaythepoetorsculptorinventafabulousanimalwithsimilarbranchingandleafyhornsmdashasortoffucusorlicheninbonemdashtobetheinhabitantofsuchaforestasthisHerejustattheheadofthemurmuringrapidsJoenowproceededtoskinthemoosewithapocket-knifewhileIlookedonandatragicalbusinessitwasmdashto see that still warm and palpitating body pierced with a knife to see the

warm milk stream from the rent udder and the ghastly naked red carcassappearing fromwithin its seemly robewhichwasmade tohide itTheballhadpassed through the shoulder-bladediagonallyand lodgedunder the skinon the opposite side andwas partially flattenedMy companion keeps it toshowtohisgrandchildrenHehastheshanksofanothermoosewhichhehassince shot skinnedand stuffed ready tobemade intobootsbyputting in athickleathersoleJoesaidifamoosestoodfrontingyouyoumustnotfirebutadvancetowardhimforhewillturnslowlyandgiveyouafairshotInthebedofthisnarrowwildandrockystreambetweentwoloftywallsofspruceandfirsamerecleftintheforestwhichthestreamhadmadethisworkwentonAtlengthJoehadstrippedoffthehideanddraggedittrailingtotheshoredeclaringthatitweighedahundredpoundsthoughprobablyfiftywouldhavebeennearerthetruthHecutoffalargemassofthemeattocarryalongandanothertogetherwiththetongueandnoseheputwiththehideontheshoretoliethereallnightortillwereturnedIwassurprisedthathethoughtofleavingthismeatthusexposedbythesideofthecarcassasthesimplestcoursenotfearing that any creaturewould touch it but nothing didThis could hardlyhave happened on the bank of one of our rivers in the eastern part ofMassachusettsbutIsuspectthatfewersmallwildanimalsareprowlingtherethanwithusTwicehoweverinthisexcursionIhadaglimpseofaspeciesoflargemouseThis streamwassowithdrawnand themoose-trackswereso fresh thatmycompanionsstillbentonhuntingconcludedtogofartherupitandcampandthenhuntupordownatnightHalfamileabovethisataplacewhereIsawtheAsterpuniceusandthebeakedhazelaswepaddledalongJoehearingaslightrustlingamidthealdersandseeingsomethingblackabouttworodsoffjumped up andwhispered Bear but before the hunter had discharged hispiece he corrected himself to BeavermdashHedgehog The bullet killed alarge hedgehog more than two feet and eight inches long The quills wererayedoutandflattenedonthehinderpartofitsbackevenasifithadlainonthat part but were erect and long between this and the tail Their pointscloselyexaminedwereseen tobefinelybeardedorbarbedandshapedlikeanawlthatisalittleconcavetogivethebarbseffectAfteraboutamileofstill water we prepared our camp on the right side just at the foot of aconsiderablefallLittlechoppingwasdonethatnightforfearofscaringthemooseWehadmoosemeat fried for supper It tasted like tenderbeefwithperhapsmoreflavormdashsometimeslikevealAfter supper the moon having risen we proceeded to hunt a mile up thisstreamfirstcarryingaboutthefallsWemadeapicturesquesightwendingsinglefilealongtheshoreclimbingoverrocksandlogsJoewhobroughtupthereartwirlinghiscanoeinhishandsasifitwereafeatherinplaceswhereitwas difficult to get alongwithout a burdenWe launched the canoe again

fromtheledgeoverwhichthestreamfellbutafterhalfamileofstillwatersuitable forhunting itbecamerapidagainandwewerecompelled tomakeourwayalong the shorewhile Joeendeavored togetup in thebirchalonethoughitwasstillverydifficultforhimtopickhiswayamidtherocksinthenightWeon theshorefound theworstofwalkingaperfectchaosof fallenand drifted trees and of bushes projecting far over thewater and now andthen wemade our way across the mouth of a small tributary on a kind ofnetworkof aldersSowewent tumblingon in thedark beingon the shadysideeffectuallyscaringallthemooseandbearsthatmightbethereaboutsAtlengthwe came to a standstill and Joewent forward to reconnoitre but hereportedthat itwasstillacontinuousrapidasfarashewentorhalfamilewithnoprospectofimprovementasifitwerecomingdownfromamountainSoweturnedabouthuntingbacktothecampthroughthestillwaterItwasasplendid moonlight night and I getting sleepy as it grew latemdashfor I hadnothing to domdashfound it difficult to realize where I was This stream wasmuchmore unfrequented than themain one lumbering operations being nolongercarriedonin thisquarter Itwasonly threeorfourrodswidebut thefirsandsprucethroughwhichittrickledseemedyettallerbycontrastBeinginthisdreamystatewhichthemoonlightenhancedIdidnotclearlydiscernthe shore but seemedmost of the time to be floating through ornamentalgroundsmdashforIassociatedthefir-topswithsuchscenesmdashveryhighupsomeBroadway and beneath or between their tops I thought I saw an endlesssuccession of porticoes and columns cornices and faccedilades verandas andchurches I did notmerely fancy this but inmy drowsy state suchwas theillusion I fairly lost myself in sleep several times still dreaming of thatarchitectureandthenobilitythatdweltbehindandmightissuefromitbutallatonceIwouldbearousedandbroughtbacktoasenseofmyactualpositionby the sound of Joes birch horn in themidst of all this silence calling themooseughughoo-oo-oo-oo-oo-oo and Iprepared tohear a furiousmoosecomerushingandcrashingthroughtheforestandseehimburstoutontothelittlestripofmeadowbyoursideButonmoreaccountsthanoneIhadhadenoughofmoose-huntingIhadnotcometothewoodsforthispurposenorhadIforeseenit thoughIhadbeenwillingtolearnhowtheIndianmanœuvredbutonemoosekilledwasasgoodif not as bad as a dozen The afternoons tragedy andmy share in it as itaffected the innocence destroyed the pleasure ofmy adventure It is true IcameasnearasispossibletocometobeingahunterandmissitmyselfandasitisIthinkthatIcouldspendayearinthewoodsfishingandhuntingjustenoughtosustainmyselfwithsatisfactionThiswouldbenexttolivinglikeaphilosopheronthefruitsoftheearthwhichyouhadraisedwhichalsoattractsmeButthishuntingofthemoosemerelyforthesatisfactionofkillinghimmdashnotevenforthesakeofhishidemdashwithoutmakinganyextraordinaryexertion

or running any risk yourself is too much like going out by night to somewood-sidepastureandshootingyourneighborshorsesTheseareGodsownhorsespoor timidcreatures thatwill runfastenoughassoonas theysmellyouthoughtheyareninefeethighJoetoldusofsomehunterswhoayearortwo before had shot down several oxen by night somewhere in theMainewoodsmistakingthemformooseAndsomightanyofthehuntersandwhatisthedifferenceinthesportbutthenameIntheformercasehavingkilledoneofGodsandyourownoxenyoustripoff itshidemdashbecause that is thecommon trophy and moreover you have heard that it may be sold formoccasinsmdashcutasteakfromitshaunchesandleavethehugecarcasstosmelltoheavenforyouItisnobetteratleastthantoassistataslaughter-houseThis afternoons experience suggested to me how base or coarse are themotiveswhich commonly carrymen into thewilderness The explorers andlumberersgenerallyareallhirelingspaidsomuchadayfortheirlaborandassuch they have no more love for wild nature than wood-sawyers have forforests Other whitemen and Indians who come here are for themost parthunters whose object is to slay as manymoose and other wild animals aspossibleButpraycouldnotonespendsomeweeksoryearsinthesolitudeofthis vast wilderness with other employments than thesemdashemploymentsperfectlysweetandinnocentandennoblingForonethatcomeswithapencilto sketch or sing a thousand comewith an axe or rifleWhat a coarse andimperfectuseIndiansandhuntersmakeofnatureNowonderthattheirraceisso soonexterminated I alreadyand forweeksafterward feltmynature thecoarser for thispartofmywoodlandexperienceandwas reminded thatourlifeshouldbelivedastenderlyanddaintilyasonewouldpluckaflowerWiththesethoughtswhenwereachedourcamping-groundIdecidedtoleavemycompanionstocontinuemoose-huntingdownthestreamwhileIpreparedthecampthoughtheyrequestedmenottochopmuchnormakealargefireforfearIshouldscaretheirgameInthemidstofthedampfirwoodhighonthemossybankaboutnineoclockofthisbrightmoonlightnightIkindledafirewhen theyweregone and sittingon the fir twigswithin soundof thefallsexaminedbyitslightthebotanicalspecimenswhichIhadcollectedthatafternoon and wrote down some of the reflections which I have hereexpanded or I walked along the shore and gazed up the streamwhere thewholespaceabovethefallswasfilledwithmellowlightAsIsatbeforethefireonmyfir-twigseatwithoutwallsaboveoraroundmeIrememberedhowfar on every hand that wilderness stretched before you came to cleared orcultivatedfieldsandwonderedifanybearormoosewaswatchingthelightofmyfire forNature lookedsternlyuponmeonaccountof themurderof themooseStrange that so few ever come to thewoods to see how the pine lives and

grows and spires lifting its evergreen arms to the lightmdashto see its perfectsuccessbutmostarecontenttobeholditintheshapeofmanybroadboardsbrought tomarket and deem that its true success But the pine is nomorelumberthanmanisandtobemadeintoboardsandhousesisnomoreitstrueandhighestusethanthetruestuseofamanistobecutdownandmadeintomanureThereisahigherlawaffectingourrelationtopinesaswellastomenApinecutdownadeadpineisnomoreapinethanadeadhumancarcassisamanCanhewhohasdiscoveredonlysomeof thevaluesofwhaleboneandwhaleoilbesaid tohavediscovered the trueuseof thewhaleCanhewhoslaystheelephantforhisivorybesaidtohaveseentheelephantThesearepettyandaccidentalusesjustasifastrongerraceweretokillusinordertomakebuttonsandflageoletsofourbonesforeverythingmayservealoweraswellasahigheruseEverycreatureisbetteralivethandeadmenandmooseand pine trees and hewhounderstands it arightwill rather preserve its lifethandestroyitIs it the lumberman then who is the friend and lover of the pine standsnearesttoitandunderstandsitsnaturebestIsitthetannerwhohasbarkeditorhewhohasboxeditforturpentinewhomposteritywillfabletohavebeenchangedintoapineatlastNonoitisthepoetheitiswhomakesthetruestuseofthepinewhodoesnotfondleitwithanaxenortickleitwithasawnorstrokeitwithaplanewhoknowswhetheritsheartisfalsewithoutcuttingintoitwhohasnotbought thestumpageof the townshiponwhich itstandsAllthepines shudder andheavea sighwhen thatman stepson the forest floorNoitisthepoetwholovesthemashisownshadowintheairandletsthemstand I have been into the lumber-yard and the carpenters shop and thetannery and the lampblack factory and the turpentine clearing butwhen atlengthIsawthetopsofthepineswavingandreflectingthelightatadistancehigh over all the rest of the forest I realized that the former were not thehighestuseofthepineItisnottheirbonesorhideortallowthatIlovemostIt is the living spirit of the tree not its spirit of turpentine with which IsympathizeandwhichhealsmycutsItisasimmortalasIamandperchancewillgotoashighaheaventheretotowerabovemestillErelongthehuntersreturnednothavingseenamoosebutinconsequenceofmysuggestionsbringingaquarterofthedeadonewhichwithourselvesmadequitealoadforthecanoeAfterbreakfastingonmoosemeatwereturneddownPineStreamonourwaytoChesuncookLakewhichwasaboutfivemilesdistantWecouldseetheredcarcassof themoose lying inPineStreamwhennearlyhalf amileoff Justbelowthemouthofthisstreamwerethemostconsiderablerapidsbetweenthetwo lakes called Pine Stream Falls where were large flat rocks washedsmooth and at this time you could easilywade across above them Joe ran

down alone while we walked over the portage my companion collectingsprucegumforhisfriendsathomeandIlookingforflowersNearthelakewhich we were approaching with as much expectation as if it had been auniversitymdashfor it is not often that the stream of our life opens into suchexpansionsmdashwereislandsandalowandmeadowyshorewithscatteredtreesbircheswhiteandyellowslantedover thewaterandmaplesmdashmanyof thewhitebircheskilledapparentlybyinundationsTherewasconsiderablenativegrassandevenafewcattlemdashwhosemovementsweheardthoughwedidnotseethemmistakingthematfirstformoosemdashwerepasturedthereOnenteringthelakewherethestreamrunssoutheasterlyandforsometimebeforewehadaviewof themountains aboutKtaadn (Katahdinauquohonesays theyarecalled) likea clusterofblue fungiof rankgrowth apparentlytwenty-five or thirty miles distant in a southeast direction their summitsconcealedbyclouds Joecalled someof them theSowadnehunkMountainsThis is the name of a stream there which another Indian told us meantrunning betweenmountains Though some lower summits were afterwarduncoveredwe got nomore complete viewofKtaadnwhilewewere in thewoodsTheclearingtowhichwewereboundwasontherightofthemouthoftheriverandwasreachedbygoingrounda lowpointwhere thewaterwasshallow to a great distance from the shore Chesuncook Lake extendsnorthwest and southeast and is called eighteen miles long and three widewithoutan islandWehadentered thenorthwestcornerof itandwhennearthe shore could see only partway down it The principalmountains visiblefromthelandherewerethosealreadymentionedbetweensoutheastandeastandafewsummitsalittlewestofnorthbutgenerallythenorthandnorthwesthorizonabouttheStJohnandtheBritishboundarywascomparativelylevelAnsellSmithstheoldestandprincipalclearingaboutthislakeappearedtobequiteaharborforbatteauxandcanoessevenoreightoftheformerwerelyingaboutandtherewasasmallscowforhayandacapstanonaplatformnowhighanddryreadytobefloatedandanchoredtotowraftswithItwasaveryprimitivekindofharborwhereboatsweredrawnupamidthestumpsmdashsuchaonemethoughtastheArgomighthavebeenlaunchedinTherewerefiveotherhutswithsmallclearingsontheoppositesideofthelakeallatthisendandvisiblefromthispointOneoftheSmithstoldmethatitwassofarclearedthat they came here to live and built the present house four years beforethoughthefamilyhadbeenherebutafewmonthsIwasinterestedtoseehowapioneerlivedonthissideofthecountryHislifeisinsomerespectsmoreadventurousthanthatofhisbrotherintheWestforhe contends with winter as well as the wilderness and there is a greaterintervalof timeat leastbetweenhimand the armywhich is to followHereimmigrationisatidewhichmayebbwhenithassweptawaythepinesthereit

is not a tide but an inundation and roads and other improvements comesteadilyrushingafterAsweapproachedtheloghouseadozenrodsfromthelakeandconsiderablyelevated above it the projecting ends of the logs lapping over each otherirregularlyseveralfeetatthecornersgaveitaveryrichandpicturesquelookfarremovedfromthemeannessofweather-boardsItwasaveryspaciouslowbuildingabouteightyfeetlongwithmanylargeapartmentsThewallswerewellclayedbetweenthelogswhichwerelargeandroundexceptontheupperand under sides and as visible inside as out successive bulging cheeksgradually lessening upwards and tuned to each other with the axe likePandeanpipesProbablythemusicalforestgodshadnotyetcastthemasidethey never do till they are split or the bark is gone It was a style ofarchitecturenotdescribedbyVitruviusIsuspectthoughpossiblyhintedatinthebiographyofOrpheusnoneofyourfrilledorflutedcolumnswhichhavecutsuchafalseswellandsupportnothingbutagableendandtheirbuilderspretensionsmdashthat iswith themultitude andas for ornamentationoneofthosewordswith a dead tailwhich architects very properly use to describetheirflourishestherewerethelichensandmossesandfringesofbarkwhichnobody troubledhimselfaboutWecertainly leave thehandsomestpaintandclapboards behind in the woods when we strip off the bark and poisonourselveswithwhite-leadinthetownsWegetbuthalfthespoilsoftheforestFor beauty give me trees with the fur on This house was designed andconstructed with the freedom of stroke of a foresters axe without othercompass and square thanNature usesWherever the logswere cut off by awindowordoorthatiswerenotkeptinplacebyalternateoverlappingtheywereheldoneuponanotherbyverylargepinsdrivenindiagonallyoneachsidewherebranchesmighthavebeenandthencutoffsocloseupanddownasnottoprojectbeyondthebulgeofthelogasifthelogsclaspedeachotherintheirarmsTheselogswerepostsstudsboardsclapboardslathsplasterandnailsallinoneWherethecitizenusesameresliverorboardthepioneerusesthewholetrunkofatreeThehousehadlargestonechimneysandwasroofedwithspruce-barkThewindowswereimportedallbutthecasingsOneendwasaregularloggerscampfortheboarderswiththeusualfirfloorandlogbenchesThusthishousewasbutaslightdeparturefromthehollowtreewhichthebearstillinhabitsmdashbeingahollowmadewithtreespiledupwithacoatingofbarklikeitsoriginalThe cellarwas a separate building like an ice-house and it answered for arefrigerator at this seasonourmoosemeatbeingkept there Itwasapotatohole with a permanent roof Each structure and institution here was soprimitive that you could at once refer it to its source but our buildingscommonly suggest neither their origin nor their purposeTherewas a largeandwhatfarmerswouldcallhandsomebarnpartofwhoseboardshadbeen

sawedby awhip-saw and the saw-pitwith its great pile of dust remainedbeforethehouseThelongsplitshinglesonaportionofthebarnwerelaidafoottotheweathersuggestingwhatkindofweathertheyhavethereGrantsbarn at Caribou Lake was said to be still larger the biggest ox-nest in thewoodsfiftyfeetbyahundredThinkofamonsterbarninthatprimitiveforestliftingitsgraybackabovethetree-topsManmakesverymuchsuchanestforhisdomesticanimalsofwitheredgrassandfodderasthesquirrelsandmanyotherwildcreaturesdoforthemselvesTherewasalsoablacksmiths shopwhereplainlyagooddealofworkwasdoneTheoxenandhorsesusedinlumberingoperationswereshodandalltheiron-workofsledsetcwasrepairedormadehereIsawthemloadabatteauattheMooseheadCarrythenextTuesdaywithaboutthirteenhundredweightof bar iron for this shop This remindedme howprimitive and honorable atradewasVulcansIdonothearthattherewasanycarpenterortailoramongthegodsThesmithseemstohaveprecededtheseandeveryothermechanicatChesuncook as well as on Olympus and his family is the most widelydispersedwhetherhebechristenedJohnorAnsellSmith owned twomiles down the lake by half amile inwidthTherewereaboutonehundredacresclearedhereHecutseventytonsofEnglishhaythisyearon thisgroundand twentymoreonanotherclearingandheuses itallhimselfinlumberingoperationsThebarnwascrowdedwithpressedhayandamachinetopressitTherewasalargegardenfullofrootsmdashturnipsbeetscarrotspotatoesetcallofgreatsizeTheysaidthattheywereworthasmuchhereasinNewYorkIsuggestedsomecurrantsforsauceespeciallyastheyhadnoappletreessetoutandshowedhoweasilytheycouldbeobtainedThere was the usual long-handled axe of the primitive woods by the doorthreeandahalffeetlongmdashformynewblack-ashrulewasinconstantusemdashandalargeshaggydogwhosenosereportsaidwasfullofporcupinequillsI can testify that he looked very sober This is the usual fortune of pioneerdogsfortheyhavetofacethebruntofthebattlefortheirraceandactthepartofArnoldWinkelriedwithoutintendingitIfheshouldinviteoneofhistownfriendsupthiswaysuggestingmoosemeatandunlimitedfreedomthelattermight pertinently inquire What is that sticking in your nose When agenerationortwohaveusedupalltheenemiesdartstheirsuccessorsleadacomparativelyeasylifeWeowetoourfathersanalogousblessingsManyoldpeople receive pensions for no other reason it seems to me but as acompensationforhavinglivedalongtimeagoNodoubtourtowndogsstilltalkinasnufflingwayaboutthedaysthattrieddogsnosesHowtheygotacat up there I donotknow for they are as shy asmyaunt about entering acanoeIwonderedthatshedidnotrunupatreeonthewaybutperhapsshewasbewilderedbytheverycrowdofopportunities

TwentyorthirtylumberersYankeeandCanadianwerecomingandgoingmdashAleckamongtherestmdashandfromtimetotimeanIndiantouchedhereInthewinter there are sometimes a hundred men lodged here at once The mostinterestingpieceofnewsthatcirculatedamongthemappearedtobethatfourhorsesbelongingtoSmithworthsevenhundreddollarshadpassedbyfartherintothewoodsaweekbeforeThewhite pine treewas at the bottomor farther end of all this It is awaragainstthepinestheonlyrealAroostookorPenobscotwarIhavenodoubtthattheylivedprettymuchthesamesortoflifeintheHomericageformenhavealwaysthoughtmoreofeatingthanoffightingthenasnowtheirmindsranchieflyonthehotbreadandsweetcakesandthefurandlumbertradeisanoldstorytoAsiaandEuropeIdoubtifmenevermadeatradeofheroismIn the days ofAchilles even they delighted in big barns and perchance inpressedhayandhewhopossessedthemostvaluableteamwasthebestfellowWehaddesignedtogoonateveninguptheCaucomgomocwhosemouthwasamileor twodistant to the lakeof thesamenameabout tenmilesoffbutsome Indians of Joes acquaintance who were making canoes on theCaucomgomoccameoverfromthatsideandgavesopooranaccountofthemoose-hunting so many had been killed there lately that my companionsconcluded not to go there Joe spent this Sunday and the night with hisacquaintancesThelumbererstoldmethatthereweremanymoosehereaboutsbutnocaribouordeerAmanfromOldtownhadkilledtenortwelvemoosewithinayear sonear thehouse that theyheardallhisgunsHisnamemayhavebeenHerculesforaughtIknowthoughIshouldratherhaveexpectedtohear the rattling of his club but no doubt he keeps pace with theimprovementsoftheageandusesaSharpsriflenowprobablyhegetsallhisarmor made and repaired at Smiths shop One moose had been killed andanother shot at within sight of the house within two years I do not knowwhetherSmithhasyetgotapoettolookafterthecattlewhichonaccountoftheearlybreakingupoftheicearecompelledtosummerinthewoodsbutIwouldsuggestthisofficetosuchofmyacquaintancesaslovetowriteversesandgoa-gunningAfter a dinner at which apple-saucewas the greatest luxury tome but ourmoose meat was oftenest called for by the lumberers I walked across theclearingintotheforestsouthwardreturningalongtheshoreFormydessertIhelpedmyself to a large slice of theChesuncookwoods and took a heartydraughtofitswaterswithallmysensesThewoodswereasfreshandfullofvegetable life as a lichen in wet weather and contained many interestingplantsbutunlesstheyareofwhitepinetheyaretreatedwithaslittlerespecthere as amildew and in the other case they are only themore quickly cutdownTheshorewasofcoarseflatslaterocksofteninslabswiththesurf

beatingonitTherocksandbleacheddrift-logsextendingsomewayintotheshaggywoodsshowedariseandfallofsixoreightfeetcausedpartlybythedamattheoutletTheysaidthatinwinterthesnowwasthreefeetdeeponalevelhereandsometimesfourorfivemdashthattheiceonthelakewastwofeetthick clear and four feet including the snow-ice Icehad already formed invesselsWe lodgedhere thisSundaynight in a comfortablebedroomapparently thebest one and all that I noticed unusual in the nightmdashfor I still kept takingnoteslikeaspyinthecampmdashwasthecreakingofthethinsplitboardswhenanyofourneighborsstirredSuchwerethefirstrudebeginningsofatownTheyspokeofthepracticabilityof awinter road to theMooseheadCarrywhichwould not costmuch andwouldconnect themwithsteamandstagingandall thebusyworldIalmostdoubted if the lakewould be theremdashthe self-same lakemdashpreserve its formand identitywhen theshoresshouldbeclearedandsettledas if these lakesandstreamswhichexplorersreportneverawaitedtheadventofthecitizenThe sight of one of these frontier houses built of these great logs whoseinhabitants have unflinchingly maintained their ground many summers andwinters in thewilderness remindsme of famous forts like Ticonderoga orCrown Point which have sustained memorable sieges They are especiallywinter-quartersandatthisseasonthisonehadapartiallydesertedlookasifthesiegewereraisedalittlethesnowbanksbeingmeltedfrombeforeitanditsgarrisonaccordingly reduced I thinkof theirdaily foodas rationsmdashit iscalledsuppliesaBibleandagreatcoataremunitionsofwaranda singleman seen about the premises is a sentinel on duty You expect that hewillrequirethecountersignandwillperchancetakeyouforEthanAllencometodemandthesurrenderofhisfortinthenameoftheContinentalCongressItisa sortof ranger serviceArnoldsexpedition isadailyexperiencewith thesesettlersTheycanprovethattheywereoutatalmostanytimeandIthinkthatallthefirstgenerationofthemdeserveapensionmorethananythatwenttotheMexicanwarEarly the next morning we started on our return up the Penobscot mycompanionwishingtogoabouttwenty-fivemilesabovetheMooseheadCarrytoacampnear the junctionof the twoforksand lookformoose thereOurhostallowedussomethingforthequarterofthemoosewhichwehadbroughtandwhichhewasgladtogetTwoexplorersfromChamberlainLakestartedatthesametimethatwedidRedflannelshirtsshouldbeworninthewoodsifonlyforthefinecontrastwhichthiscolormakeswiththeevergreensandthewater Thus I thoughtwhen I saw the forms of the explorers in their birchpolingup the rapids before us far off against the forest It is the surveyorscoloralsomostdistinctlyseenunderallcircumstancesWestoppedtodineat

Ragmuff as beforeMy companion it was whowandered up the stream tolookformoosethistimewhileJoewenttosleeponthebanksothatwefeltsureofhimandIimprovedtheopportunitytobotanizeandbatheSoonafterstartingagainwhileJoewasgonebackinthecanoeforthefrying-panwhichhadbeenleftwepickedacoupleofquartsoftree-cranberriesforasauceIwassurprisedbyJoesaskingmehowfaritwastotheMoosehornHewasprettywellacquaintedwiththisstreambuthehadnoticedthatIwascuriousaboutdistancesandhadseveralmapsHeandIndiansgenerallywithwhomIhavetalkedarenotabletodescribedimensionsordistancesinourmeasureswithanyaccuracyHecouldtellperhapsatwhattimeweshouldarrivebutnothowfar itwasWesawafewwoodduckssheldrakesandblackducksbuttheywerenotsonumerousthereatthatseasonasonourriverathomeWescaredthesamefamilyofwoodducksbeforeusgoingandreturningWealsoheardthenoteofonefishhawksomewhatlikethatofapigeonwoodpeckerandsoonaftersawhimperchednearthetopofadeadwhitepineagainsttheisland where we had first camped while a company of peetweets weretwitteringandteeteringaboutoverthecarcassofamooseonalowsandyspitjustbeneathWedrovethefishhawkfromperchtopercheachtimeelicitingascreamorwhistleformanymilesbeforeusOurcoursebeingup-streamwewere obliged to workmuch harder than before and had frequent use for apole Sometimes all three of us paddled together standing up small andheavilyladenasthecanoewasAboutsixmilesfromMooseheadwebegantosee themountains east of the north end of the lake and at four oclockwereachedthecarryThe Indians were still encamped here There were three including the StFrancis Indianwhohadcome in thesteamerwithusOneof theotherswascalledSabattis Joe and theStFrancis Indianwereplainly clear Indian theothertwoapparentlymixedIndianandwhitebutthedifferencewasconfinedtotheirfeaturesandcomplexionforallthatIcouldseeWeherecookedthetongueofthemooseforsuppermdashhavingleftthenosewhichisesteemedthechoicest part at Chesuncook boiling it being a good deal of trouble toprepareitWealsostewedourtree-cranberries(Viburnumopulus)sweeteningthemwith sugar The lumberers sometimes cook themwithmolasses TheywereusedinArnoldsexpeditionThissaucewasverygratefultouswhohadbeenconfinedtohard-breadporkandmoosemeatandnotwithstandingtheirseeds we all three pronounced them equal to the common cranberry butperhaps some allowance is to bemade for our forest appetites Itwould beworth thewhile to cultivate themboth for beauty and for food I afterwardsawtheminagardeninBangorJoesaidthattheywerecalledebeemenarWhile we were getting supper Joe commenced curing the moose-hide onwhichIhadsatagoodpartofthevoyagehehavingalreadycutmostofthe

hairoffwithhisknifeattheCaucomgomocHesetuptwostoutforkedpolesonthebanksevenoreightfeethighandasmuchasundereastandwestandhavingcutslitseightortenincheslongandthesamedistanceapartclosetotheedgeonthesidesofthehidehethreadedpolesthroughthemandthenplacingoneofthepolesontheforkedstakestiedtheotherdowntightlyatthebottomThetwoendsalsoweretiedwithcedarbarktheirusualstringtotheuprightpolesthroughsmallholesatshortintervalsThehidethusstretchedandslantedalittletothenorthtoexposeitsfleshsidetothesunmeasuredinthe extreme eight feet long by six highWhere any flesh still adhered Joeboldly scored it with his knife to lay it open to the sun It now appearedsomewhatspottedandinjuredbytheduckshotYoumayseetheoldframesonwhichhideshavebeenstretchedatmanycamping-placesinthesewoodsForsomereasonorother thegoing to theforksof thePenobscotwasgivenupandwedecided to stopheremycompanion intending tohuntdown thestreamatnightTheIndiansinvitedustolodgewiththembutmycompanioninclinedtogotothelogcamponthecarryThiscampwascloseanddirtyandhadanillsmellandIpreferredtoaccepttheIndiansofferifwedidnotmakeacampforourselvesforthoughtheyweredirtytootheyweremoreintheopenairandweremuchmoreagreeableandevenrefinedcompanythanthelumberers Themost interesting question entertained at the lumberers campwaswhichmancouldhandleanyotheronthecarryandforthemostparttheypossessednoqualitieswhichyoucouldnotlayhandsonSowewenttotheIndianscamporwigwamItwasratherwindyandthereforeJoeconcludedtohuntaftermidnightifthewindwentdownwhichtheotherIndiansthoughtitwouldnotdobecauseitwasfromthesouthThetwomixed-bloodshoweverwentoffuptheriverformooseatdarkbeforewearrivedattheircampThisIndiancampwasaslightpatched-up affair which had stood there several weeks built shed-fashionopentothefireonthewestIfthewindchangedtheycouldturnitroundItwasformedbytwoforkedstakesandacross-barwithraftersslantedfromthisto the ground The covering was partly an old sail partly birch-bark quiteimperfectbutsecurelytiedonandcomingdowntothegroundonthesidesAlarge log was rolled up at the back side for a headboard and two or threemoose-hideswere spreadon thegroundwith thehairupVariousarticlesoftheirwardrobewere tucked around the sides and corners or under the roofTheyweresmokingmoosemeatonjustsuchacrateasisrepresentedbyWithin De Brys Collectio Peregrinationum published in 1588 and which thenativesofBrazilcalledboucan(whencebuccaneer)onwhichwerefrequentlyshownpiecesofhumanfleshdryingalongwiththerestItwaserectedinfrontof thecampover theusual large fire in the formof anoblong squareTwostoutforkedstakesfourorfivefeetapartandfivefeethighweredrivenintothegroundateachendandthentwopolestenfeetlongwerestretchedacross

overthefireandsmalleroneslaidtransverselyontheseafootapartOnthelasthunglargethinslicesofmoosemeatsmokinganddryingaspacebeingleft open over the centre of the fire Therewas thewhole heart black as athirty-twopoundball hanging at one cornerThey said that it took threeorfourdaystocurethismeatanditwouldkeepayearormoreRefusepieceslayaboutonthegroundindifferentstagesofdecayandsomepiecesalsointhefirehalfburiedandsizzlingintheashesasblackanddirtyasanoldshoeTheselastIatfirstthoughtwerethrownawaybutafterwardsfoundthattheywerebeingcookedAlsoatremendousrib-piecewasroastingbeforethefirebeing impaledonanuprightstakeforced inandoutbetween theribsTherewasamoose-hidestretchedandcuringonpoleslikeoursandquiteapileofcuredskinsclosebyTheyhadkilled twenty-twomoosewithin twomonthsbutastheycouldusebutverylittleofthemeattheyleftthecarcasesonthegroundAltogetheritwasaboutassavageasightaswaseverwitnessedandIwas carried back at once three hundred years There weremany torches ofbirch-bark shaped like straight tin horns lying ready for use on a stumpoutsideFor fear of dirtwe spread our blankets over their hides so as not to touchthemanywhereTheStFrancisIndianandJoealonewerethereatfirstandwelayonourbackstalkingwiththemtillmidnightTheywereverysociableandwhen they did not talkwith us kept up a steady chatting in their ownlanguageWe heard a small bird just after dark which Joe said sang at acertain hour in the nightmdashat ten oclock he believed We also heard thehylodesandtree-toadsandthelumbererssingingintheircampaquarterofamile off I told them that I had seen pictured in old books pieces of humanfleshdryingonthesecrateswhereupontheyrepeatedsometraditionabouttheMohawks eating human fleshwhat parts they preferred etc and also of abattlewith theMohawksnearMoosehead inwhichmanyof the latterwerekilled but I found that they knewbut little of the history of their race andcouldbeentertainedbystoriesabouttheirancestorsasreadilyasanywayAtfirstIwasnearlyroastedoutforIlayagainstonesideofthecampandfelttheheatreflectednotonlyfromthebirch-barkabovebutfromthesideandagain I remembered the sufferings of the Jesuit missionaries and whatextremes of heat and cold the Indianswere said to endure I struggled longbetweenmydesiretoremainandtalkwiththemandmyimpulsetorushoutand stretchmyself on the cool grass andwhen Iwas about to take the laststep Joehearingmymurmursor elsebeinguncomfortablehimself gotupand partially dispersed the fire I suppose that that is Indian mannersmdashtodefendyourselfWhile lying there listening to the Indians I amused myself with trying toguessattheirsubjectbytheirgesturesorsomepropernameintroducedTherecanbenomorestartlingevidenceoftheirbeingadistinctandcomparatively

aboriginal race than to hear this unaltered Indian languagewhich thewhitemancannotspeaknorunderstandWemaysuspectchangeanddeteriorationinalmost every other particular but the language which is so whollyunintelligible to us It took me by surprise though I had found so manyarrowheads and convinced me that the Indian was not the invention ofhistorians andpoets Itwas apurelywild andprimitiveAmerican sound asmuchasthebarkingofachickareeandIcouldnotunderstandasyllableofitbut Paugus had he been there would have understood it These AbenakisgossipedlaughedandjestedinthelanguageinwhichEliotsIndianBibleiswritten the languagewhichhasbeenspoken inNewEnglandwhoshall sayhow long These were the sounds that issued from the wigwams of thiscountrybeforeColumbuswasborn theyhavenot yet died away andwithremarkably few exceptions the language of their forefathers is still copiousenoughforthemIfeltthatIstoodorratherlayasneartotheprimitivemanofAmericathatnightasanyofitsdiscovererseverdidInthemidstoftheirconversationJoesuddenlyappealedtometoknowhowlongMooseheadLakewasMeanwhileaswelaythereJoewasmakingandtryinghishorntobereadyforhunting aftermidnightTheStFrancis Indian also amusedhimselfwithsoundingitorrathercallingthroughitforthesoundismadewiththevoiceandnotbyblowingthroughthehornThelatterappearedtobeaspeculatorinmoose-hidesHeboughtmycompanionsfortwodollarsandaquartergreenJoe said that it was worth two and a half at Oldtown Its chief use is formoccasinsOneortwooftheseIndiansworethemIwastoldthatbyarecentlawofMaine foreigners are not allowed to killmoose there at any seasonwhiteAmericanscankill themonlyataparticularseasonbuttheIndiansofMaineatallseasonsTheStFrancisIndianaccordinglyaskedmycompanionforawighigginorbilltoshowsincehewasaforeignerHelivednearSorelIfoundthathecouldwritehisnameverywellTahmuntSwasenOneEllisanoldwhitemanofGuilfordatownthroughwhichwepassednotfarfromthesouthendofMooseheadwasthemostcelebratedmoose-hunterofthosepartsIndiansandwhitesspokewithequal respectofhimTahmuntsaid that thereweremoremooseherethanintheAdirondackcountryinNewYorkwherehehadhunted that threeyearsbefore therewereagreatmanyaboutandtherewereagreatmanynowinthewoodsbuttheydidnotcomeouttothewaterItwas of no use to hunt them atmidnightmdashtheywould not come out then Iasked Sabattis after he came home if the moose never attacked him HeansweredthatyoumustnotfiremanytimessoastomadhimIfireonceandhithimintherightplaceandinthemorningIfindhimHewontgofarButifyoukeepfiringyoumadhimIfiredoncefivebulletseveryonethroughtheheartandhedidnotmindematallitonlymadehimmoremadIaskedhimiftheydidnothuntthemwithdogsHesaidthattheydidsoinwinterbut

never in the summer for then it was of no use they would run right offstraightandswiftlyahundredmilesAnotherIndiansaidthatthemooseoncescaredwouldrunalldayAdogwillhangtotheirlipsandbecarriedalongtillheisswungagainstatreeanddropsoffTheycannotrunonaglazethoughtheycanruninsnowfourfeetdeepbut the caribou can run on ice They commonly find two or three moosetogetherTheycoverthemselveswithwaterallbuttheirnosestoescapefliesHehadthehornsofwhathecalledtheblackmoosethatgoesinlowlandsThesespreadthreeorfourfeetTheredmoosewasanotherkindrunningon mountains and had horns which spread six feet Such were hisdistinctionsBothcanmovetheirhornsThebroadflatbladesarecoveredwithhairandaresosoftwhentheanimalisalivethatyoucanrunaknifethroughthemTheyregarditasagoodorbadsignifthehornsturnthiswayorthatHiscaribouhornshadbeengnawedbymice inhiswigwambuthe thoughtthatthehornsneitherofthemoosenorofthecaribouwereevergnawedwhilethe creaturewas alive as somehave assertedAn Indianwhom Imet afterthisatOldtownwhohadcarriedaboutabearandotheranimalsofMainetoexhibittoldmethatthirtyyearsagotherewerenotsomanymooseinMaineasnow also that themoosewerevery easily tamed andwould comebackwhen once fed and so would deer but not caribou The Indians of thisneighborhood are about as familiar with the moose as we are with the oxhaving associatedwith them for somany generations Father Rasles in hisDictionary of the Abenaki Language gives not only a word for the malemoose(aianbeacute)andanotherforthefemale(hegraverar)butforthebonewhichisinthemiddleoftheheartofthemoose()andforhislefthindlegTherewerenoneofthesmalldeeruptheretheyaremorecommonaboutthesettlements One ran into the city of Bangor two years before and jumpedthrough a window of costly plate glass and then into a mirror where itthought it recognizedoneof itskindandoutagainandsoon leapingovertheheadsofthecrowduntilitwascapturedThistheinhabitantsspeakofasthedeerthatwenta-shoppingThelast-mentionedIndianspokeofthelunxusorIndiandevil(whichItaketobethecougarandnottheGuloluscus)astheonlyanimalinMainewhichmanneedfearitwouldfollowamananddidnotmind a fire He also said that beavers were getting to be pretty numerousagain where wewent but their skins brought so little now that it was notprofitabletohuntthemIhadputtheearsofourmoosewhichweretenincheslongtodryalongwiththemoosemeatoverthefirewishingtopreservethembutSabattistoldmethatImustskinandcurethemelsethehairwouldallcomeoffHeobservedthat they made tobacco pouches of the skins of their ears putting the twotogetherinsidetoinsideIaskedhimhowhegotfireandheproducedalittle

cylindrical box of friction matches He also had flints and steel and somepunkwhichwasnotdryI thinkitwasfromtheyellowbirchButsupposeyouupsetandalltheseandyourpowdergetwetThensaidhewewaittillwegettowherethereissomefireIproducedfrommypocketalittlevialcontainingmatchesstoppledwater-tightandtoldhimthat thoughwewereupset we should still have some dry matches at which he stared withoutsayingawordWe lay awake thus a long while talking and they gave us the meaning ofmanyIndiannamesoflakesandstreamsinthevicinitymdashespeciallyTahmuntI asked the Indian name of Moosehead Lake Joe answered SebamookTahmunt pronounced it Sebemook When I asked what it meant theyansweredMooseheadLakeAt lengthgettingmymeaning theyalternatelyrepeatedthewordovertothemselvesasaphilologistmightmdashSebamookmdashSebamookmdashnowand thencomparingnotes in Indian for therewasaslightdifferenceintheirdialectsandfinallyTahmuntsaidUghIknowmdashandherose up partly on the moose-hidemdashlike as here is a place and there is aplacepointingtodifferentpartsofthehideandyoutakewaterfromthereandfill thisand it stayshere that isSebamook Iunderstoodhim tomeanthatitwasareservoirofwaterwhichdidnotrunawaytherivercominginononesideandpassingoutagainnearthesameplaceleavingapermanentbayAnotherIndiansaidthatitmeantLargeBayLakeandthatSebagoandSebecthenamesofotherlakeswerekindredwordsmeaninglargeopenwaterJoesaidthatSebooismeantLittleRiverIobservedtheirinabilityoftendescribedto convey an abstract idea Having got the idea though indistinctly theygropedaboutinvainforwordswithwhichtoexpressitTahmuntthoughtthatthewhitescalleditMooseheadLakebecauseMountKineowhichcommandsitisshapedlikeamoosesheadandthatMooseRiverwassocalledbecausethemountainpointsrightacrossthelaketoitsmouthJohnJosselynwritingabout1673 says Twelvemiles fromCascoBayandpassable formenandhorsesisalakecalledbytheIndiansSebugOnthebrinkthereofatoneendisthefamousrockshapedlikeamoosedeerorhelkdiaphanousandcalledtheMoose RockHe appears to have confounded Sebamookwith SebagowhichisnearerbuthasnodiaphanousrockonitsshoreIgivemoreoftheirdefinitionsforwhattheyareworthmdashpartlybecausetheydiffer sometimes from the commonly received ones They never analyzedthesewordsbeforeAfterlongdeliberationandrepeatingofthewordmdashforitgave much troublemdashTahmunt said that Chesuncook meant a place wheremany streams emptied in () and he enumerated themmdashPenobscotUmbazookskusCusabesexRedBrooketcCaucomgomocmdashwhatdoesthatmeanWhatare those largewhitebirdsheaskedGulls said I UghGull Lake Pammadumcook Joe thought meant the Lake with GravellyBottomorBedKenduskeagTahmuntconcludedatlastafteraskingifbirches

went up itmdashfor he said that he was not much acquainted with itmdashmeantsomethinglikethisYougoupPenobscottillyoucometoKenduskeagandyougobyyoudont turnup thereThat isKenduskeag ()Another IndianhoweverwhoknewtheriverbettertoldusafterwardthatitmeantLittleEelRiverMattawamkeagwasaplacewheretworiversmeet()PenobscotwasRocky River One writer says that this was originally the name of only asectionofthemainchannelfromtheheadofthetide-watertoashortdistanceaboveOldtownA very intelligent Indian whom we afterward met son-in-law of Neptunegave us also these other definitions Umbazookskus MeadowStreamMillinoket Place of Islands Aboljacarmegus Smooth-Ledge Falls(andDeadwater)Aboljacarmeguscook thestreamemptying in (the lastwasthe word he gave when I asked about Aboljacknagesic which he did notrecognize)MattahumkeagSand-CreekPondPiscataquisBranchofaRiverI asked our hosts what Musketaquid the Indian name of ConcordMassachusettsmeantbuttheychangedittoMusketicookandrepeatedthatandTahmunt said that itmeantDeadStreamwhich is probably trueCookappearstomeanstreamandperhapsquidsignifiestheplaceorgroundWhenIaskedthemeaningofthenamesoftwoofourhillstheyansweredthattheywere another language As Tahmunt said that he traded at Quebec mycompanioninquiredthemeaningof thewordQuebecaboutwhichtherehasbeensomuchquestionHedidnotknowbutbegantoconjectureHeaskedwhat those great ships were called that carried soldiers Men-of-war weanswered Well he said when the English ships came up the river theycouldnotgoanyfartheritwassonarrowtheretheymustgobackmdashgo-backmdashthatsQue-becImentionthistoshowthevalueofhisauthorityintheothercasesLate at night the other two Indians came home from moose-hunting nothaving been successful aroused the fire again lighted their pipes smokedawhiletooksomethingstrongtodrinkandatesomemoosemeatandfindingwhatroomtheycouldlaydownonthemoose-hidesandthuswepassedthenighttwowhitemenandfourIndianssidebysideWhenIawokein themorningtheweatherwasdrizzlingOneof theIndianswas lying outside rolled in his blanket on the opposite side of the fire forwantofroomJoehadneglectedtoawakemycompanionandhehaddonenohunting that night Tahmunt was making a cross-bar for his canoe with asingularly shaped knife such as I have since seen other Indians using Thebladewasthinaboutthreequartersofaninchwideandeightornineincheslong but curved out of its plane into a hook which he said made it moreconvenienttoshavewithAstheIndiansveryfarnorthandnorthwestusethesame kind of knife I suspect that it was made according to an aboriginal

patternthoughsomewhiteartisansmayuseasimilaroneTheIndiansbakedaloafofflourbreadinaspideronitsedgebeforethefirefortheirbreakfastandwhilemycompanionwasmaking tea Icaughtadozensizablefishes inthePenobscottwokindsofsuckerandonetroutAfterwehadbreakfastedbyourselvesoneofourbed-fellowswhohadalsobreakfastedcamealongandbeing invited took a cup of tea and finally taking up the common platterlicked it cleanBut hewas nothing to awhite fellow a lumbererwhowascontinuallystuffinghimselfwiththeIndiansmoosemeatandwasthebuttofhiscompanionsaccordinglyHeseemstohavethoughtthatitwasafeasttoeatallItiscommonlysaidthatthewhitemanfinallysurpassestheIndianonhis own ground and it was proved true in this case I cannot swear to hisemploymentduringthehoursofdarknessbutIsawhimatitagainassoonasitwaslightthoughhecameaquarterofamiletohisworkTherainpreventedourcontinuinganylongerinthewoodssogivingsomeofourprovisionsandutensilstotheIndianswetookleaveofthemThisbeingthesteamersdayIsetoutforthelakeatonceIwalkedoverthecarryaloneandwaitedattheheadofthelakeAneagleorsomeotherlargebirdflewscreamingawayfromitsperchbytheshoreatmyapproachForanhourafterIreachedtheshoretherewasnotahumanbeingtobeseenandIhadallthatwideprospecttomyselfIthoughtthatIheardthesoundofthesteamerbeforeshecameinsightontheopenlakeInoticedatthelandingwhenthesteamercameinoneofourbed-fellowswhohadbeena-moose-hunting thenightbefore nowvery sprucelydressed in a cleanwhiteshirtandfineblackpantsatrueIndiandandywhohadevidentlycomeoverthe carry to show himself to any arrivers on the north shore ofMooseheadLake just asNewYork dandies take a turn upBroadway and stand on thestepsofahotelMidwaythelakewetookonboardtwomanly-lookingmiddle-agedmenwiththeirbatteauwhohadbeenexploringforsixweeksasfarastheCanadalineandhadlettheirbeardsgrowTheyhadtheskinofabeaverwhichtheyhadrecentlycaughtstretchedonanovalhoopthoughthefurwasnotgoodatthatseasonItalkedwithoneofthemtellinghimthatIhadcomeallthisdistancepartlytoseewherethewhitepine theEasternstuffofwhichourhousesarebuilt grew but that on this and a previous excursion into another part ofMaineIhadfounditascarcetreeandIaskedhimwhereImustlookforitWithasmileheansweredthathecouldhardlytellmeHoweverhesaidthathehad foundenough toemploy two teams thenextwinter inaplacewheretherewas thought tobenone leftWhatwasconsideredatip-top treenowwasnotlookedattwentyyearsagowhenhefirstwentintothebusinessbuttheysucceededverywellnowwithwhatwasconsideredquiteinferiortimberthenTheexplorerusedtocutintoatreehigherandhigheruptoseeifitwas

false-heartedandiftherewasarottenheartasbigashisarmheletitalonebutnowtheycutsuchatreeandsaweditallaroundtherotanditmadetheverybestofboardsforinsuchacasetheywerenevershakyOneconnectedwith lumberingoperationsatBangor toldme that the largestpinebelongingtohisfirmcutthepreviouswinterscaledinthewoodsfourthousand five hundred feet and was worth ninety dollars in the log at theBangorboominOldtownTheycutaroadthreeandahalfmileslongforthistreealoneHethoughtthattheprincipallocalityforthewhitepinethatcamedownthePenobscotnowwasattheheadoftheEastBranchandtheAllegashaboutWebster Stream and Eagle and Chamberlain lakes Much timber hasbeen stolen from the public lands (Pray what kind of forest-warden is thePublic itself) Iheardofonemanwhohavingdiscoveredsomeparticularlyfine trees just within the boundaries of the public lands and not daring toemploy an accomplice cut them down and bymeans of block and tacklewithout cattle tumbled them into a stream and so succeeded in getting offwiththemwithouttheleastassistanceSurelystealingpinetreesinthiswayisnotsomeanasrobbinghen-roostsWereachedMonsonthatnightandthenextdayrodetoBangorallthewayinthe rain again varying our route a little Some of the taverns on this roadwhichwereparticularlydirtywereplainlyinatransitionstatefromthecamptothehouseThe next forenoon we went to Oldtown One slender old Indian on theOldtown shore who recognized my companion was full of mirth andgestureslikeaFrenchmanACatholicpriestcrossedtotheislandinthesamebatteauwith us The Indian houses are framedmostly of one story and inrowsonebehindanotherat thesouthendof theislandwithafewscatteredonesIcountedaboutfortynotincludingthechurchandwhatmycompanioncalled thecouncil-houseThe lastwhich I suppose is their town-housewasregularlyframedandshingledliketherestTherewereseveraloftwostoriesquiteneatwithfrontyards inclosedandoneat leasthadgreenblindsHereandthereweremoose-hidesstretchedanddryingabout themTherewerenocart-pathsnortracksofhorsesbutfootpathsverylittlelandcultivatedbutanabundanceofweedsindigenousandnaturalizedmoreintroducedweedsthanuseful vegetables as the Indian is said to cultivate the vices rather than thevirtues of the white man Yet this village was cleaner than I expected farcleaner than such Irish villages as I have seen The children were notparticularly ragged nor dirty The little boys met us with bow in hand andarrowonstringandcriedPutupacentVerilytheIndianhasbutafeebleholdonhisbownowbutthecuriosityofthewhitemanisinsatiableandfromthefirsthehasbeeneagertowitnessthisforestaccomplishmentThatelasticpieceofwoodwithitsfeathereddartsosuretobeunstrungbycontactwith

civilizationwillserveforthetypethecoat-of-armsofthesavageAlasfortheHunterRacethewhitemanhasdrivenofftheirgameandsubstitutedacentinitsplaceIsawanIndianwomanwashingatthewatersedgeShestoodonarockandafterdippingtheclothesinthestreamlaidthemontherockandbeatthemwithashortclubInthegraveyardwhichwascrowdedwithgravesand overrun with weeds I noticed an inscription in Indian painted on awoodengrave-boardTherewasalargewoodencrossontheislandSincemycompanionknewhimwecalledonGovernorNeptunewholivedina little ten-footer one of the humblest of them all Personalities areallowableinspeakingofpublicmenthereforeIwillgivetheparticularsofourvisit Hewas abedWhenwe entered the roomwhichwas one half of thehousehewassittingonthesideofthebedTherewasaclockhanginginonecorner He had on a black frock coat and black pants much worn whitecottonshirtsocksaredsilkhandkerchiefabouthisneckandastrawhatHisblack hair was only slightly grayed He had very broad cheeks and hisfeatures were decidedly and refreshingly different from those of any of theupstartNativeAmericanpartywhomIhaveseenHewasnodarkerthanmanyoldwhitemenHetoldmethathewaseighty-ninebuthewasgoinga-moose-hunting that fall ashehadbeen thepreviousoneProbablyhiscompanionsdidthehuntingWesawvarioussquawsdodgingaboutOnesatonthebedbyhissideandhelpedhimoutwithhisstoriesTheywereremarkablycorpulentwithsmoothroundfacesapparentlyfullofgood-humorCertainlyourmuch-abusedclimatehadnotdrieduptheiradiposesubstanceWhileweweretheremdashforwestayedagoodwhilemdashonewentover toOldtownreturnedandcutoutadresswhichshehadboughtonanotherbedintheroomTheGovernorsaidthathecouldrememberwhenthemooseweremuchlargerthattheydidnotusetobeinthewoodsbutcameoutofthewaterasalldeerdidMoosewas whale once Away down Merrimack way a whale came ashore in ashallow bay Seawent out and left him and he came up on land amooseWhatmadethemknowhewasawhalewas thatat firstbeforehebegantoruninbusheshehadnobowelsinsidebutmdashandthenthesquawwhosatonthebedbyhissideastheGovernorsaidandhadbeenputtinginawordnowandthenandconfirmingthestoryaskedmewhatwecalledthatsoftthingwefindalongtheseashoreJelly-fishIsuggestedYessaidhenobowelsbutjelly-fishThere may be some truth in what he said about the moose growing largerformerly for thequaintJohnJosselynaphysicianwhospentmanyyears inthisverydistrictofMaineintheseventeenthcenturysaysthatthetipsoftheirhornsaresometimesfoundtobetwofathomsasundermdashandheisparticulartotellusthatafathomissixfeetmdashand[theyare]inheightfromthetoeofthe fore foot to thepitchof the shoulder twelve footbothwhichhathbeentaken by some ofmy sceptique readers to bemonstrous lies and he adds

There are certain transcendentia in every creature which are the indeliblecharacterofGodandwhichdiscoverGodThis isagreaterdilemma tobecaught in than is presented by the cranium of the young Bechuana oxapparently another of the transcendentia in the collection of Thomas SteelUpper Brook Street London whose entire length of horn from tip to tipalongthecurveis13ft5indistance(straight)betweenthetipsofthehorns8 ft8frac12 inHowever the sizebothof themooseand thecougar as IhavefoundisgenerallyratherunderratedthanoverratedandIshouldbeinclinedtoaddtothepopularestimateapartofwhatIsubtractedfromJosselynsButwetalkedmostlywiththeGovernorsson-in-lawaverysensibleIndianand the Governor being so old and deaf permitted himself to be ignoredwhile we asked questions about him The former said that there were twopoliticalpartiesamongthemmdashoneinfavorofschoolsandtheotheropposedto themor rather theydidnotwish to resist thepriestwhowasopposed tothem The first had just prevailed at the election and sent their man to thelegislatureNeptuneandAitteonandhehimselfwereinfavorofschoolsHesaidIfIndiansgotlearningtheywouldkeeptheirmoneyWhenweaskedwhereJoesfatherAitteonwasheknewthathemustbeatLincolnthoughhewas about going a-moose-hunting for amessenger had just gone to himtheretogethissignaturetosomepapersIaskedNeptuneiftheyhadanyoftheoldbreedofdogsyetHeansweredYesButthatsaidIpointingtoonethathadjustcomeinisaYankeedogHeassentedIsaidthathedidnot look likeagoodone Ohyeshe said andhe toldwithmuchgustohowtheyearbeforehehadcaughtandheldbythethroatawolfAverysmallblackpuppyrushedintotheroomandmadeattheGovernorsfeetashesatinhis stockingswithhis legsdangling from thebedsideTheGovernor rubbedhis hands and dared him to come on entering into the sport with spiritNothingmore thatwas significant transpired tomy knowledge during thisinterviewThiswasthefirsttimethatIevercalledonagovernorbutasIdidnotaskforanofficeIcanspeakofitwiththemorefreedomAnIndianwhowasmakingcanoesbehindahouselookinguppleasantlyfromhis workmdashfor he knewmy companionmdashsaid that his namewasOld JohnPennyweightIhadheardofhimlongbeforeandI inquiredafteroneofhiscontemporariesJoeFour-pence-hapennybutalashenolongercirculatesImade a faithful study of canoe-building and I thought that I should like toserveanapprenticeshipatthattradeforoneseasongoingintothewoodsforbarkwithmybossmakingthecanoethereandreturninginitatlastWhilethebatteauwascomingovertotakeusoffIpickedupsomefragmentsofarrowheadsontheshoreandonebrokenstonechiselwhichweregreaternoveltiestotheIndiansthantomeAfterthisonOldFortHillatthebendofthe Penobscot three miles above Bangor looking for the site of an Indian

townwhichsomethinkstoodthereaboutsIfoundmorearrowheadsandtwolittledarkandcrumblingfragmentsofIndianearthenwareintheashesoftheirfiresTheIndiansontheislandappearedtolivequitehappilyandtobewelltreatedbytheinhabitantsofOldtownWe visitedVeaziesmills just below the islandwherewere sixteen sets ofsawsmdashsomegangsawssixteeninagangnot tomentioncircularsawsOnonesidetheywerehaulingthelogsupaninclinedplanebywater-powerontheotherpassingouttheboardsplanksandsawedtimberandformingtheminto raftsThe treeswere literallydrawnandquartered there In forming therafts they use the lower three feet of hard-wood saplings which have acrookedandknobbedbutt-endforboltspassingthemupthroughholesboredin the corners and sidesof the rafts andkeying them In another apartmenttheyweremakingfence-slatssuchasstandalloverNewEnglandoutofoddsand ends and it may be that I sawwhere the picket-fence behind which Idwell at home came from Iwas surprised to find a boy collecting the longedgingsofboardsasfastascutoffandthrustingthemdownahopperwherethey were ground up beneath the mill that they might be out of the wayotherwisetheyaccumulateinvastpilesbythesideofthebuildingincreasingthedangerfromfireorfloatingofftheyobstructtheriverThiswasnotonlya sawmill but a gristmill then The inhabitants ofOldtown Stillwater andBangorcannotsufferforwantofkindlingstuffsurelySomeget their livingexclusively by picking up the driftwood and selling it by the cord in thewinterInoneplaceIsawwhereanIrishmanwhokeepsateamandamanforthepurposehadcoveredtheshoreforalongdistancewithregularpilesandIwas told that he had sold twelve hundred dollarsworth in a yearAnotherwholivedbytheshoretoldmethathegotallthematerialofhisoutbuildingsandfencesfromtheriverandinthatneighborhoodIperceivedthatthisrefusewood was frequently used instead of sand to fill hollows with beingapparentlycheaperthandirtIgotmyfirstclearviewofKtaadnon thisexcursion fromahillabout twomilesnorthwestofBangorwhither Iwent for thispurposeAfter this IwasreadytoreturntoMassachusettsHumboldthaswrittenaninterestingchapterontheprimitiveforestbutnoonehasyetdescribed forme thedifferencebetween thatwild forestwhichonceoccupiedouroldesttownshipsandthetameonewhichIfindthereto-dayItisadifferencewhichwouldbeworthattending toThecivilizedmannotonlyclearsthelandpermanentlytoagreatextentandcultivatesopenfieldsbuthetamesandcultivatestoacertainextenttheforestitselfByhismerepresencealmosthechangesthenatureofthetreesasnoothercreaturedoesThesunand air and perhaps fire have been introduced and grain raised where itstands It has lost itswild damp and shaggy look the countless fallen and

decayingtreesaregoneandconsequentlythatthickcoatofmosswhichlivedonthemisgonetooTheearthiscomparativelybareandsmoothanddryThemostprimitiveplacesleftwithusaretheswampswherethesprucestillgrowsshaggy with usnea The surface of the ground in the Maine woods iseverywhere spongy and saturated with moisture I noticed that the plantswhich cover the forest floor there are such as are commonly confined toswamps with usmdashtheClintonia borealis orchises creeping snowberry andothersand theprevailingaster there is theAsteracuminatuswhichwithusgrowsindampandshadywoodsTheasterscordifoliusandmacrophyllusalsoarecommonastersoflittleornocolorandsometimeswithoutpetalsIsawno soft spreading second-growth white pines with smooth barkacknowledging the presence of thewoodchopper but even the youngwhitepineswerealltallandslenderrough-barkedtreesThose Maine woods differ essentially from ours There you are neverreminded that the wilderness which you are threading is after all somevillagers familiarwood-lot somewidows thirds fromwhich her ancestorshavesleddedfuelforgenerationsminutelydescribedinsomeolddeedwhichisrecordedofwhichtheownerhasgotaplantooandoldbound-marksmaybe foundevery forty rods ifyouwill search Tis true themapmay informyou that you stand on land granted by the State to some academy or onBinghams purchase but these names do not impose on you for you seenothingtoremindyouoftheacademyorofBinghamWhatweretheforestsofEnglandtotheseOnewriterrelatesoftheIsleofWightthatinCharlestheSecondstimetherewerewoodsintheislandsocompleteandextensivethatitissaidasquirrelmighthavetraveledinseveralpartsmanyleaguestogetheron the topof the trees If itwerenot for the rivers (andhemightgo roundtheirheads)asquirrelcouldheretravelthusthewholebreadthofthecountryWe have as yet had no adequate account of a primitive pine forest I havenoticedthatinaphysicalatlaslatelypublishedinMassachusettsandusedinourschoolsthewoodlandofNorthAmericaislimitedalmostsolelytothevalleysoftheOhioandsomeoftheGreatLakesandthegreatpineforestsoftheglobearenotrepresentedInourvicinityforinstanceNewBrunswickandMaine are exhibited as bare as Greenland It may be that the children ofGreenville at the foot ofMoosehead Lakewho surely are not likely to bescared by an owl are referred to the valley of theOhio to get an idea of aforestbut theywouldnotknowwhat todowith theirmoosebearcariboubeaver etc thereShallwe leave it to anEnglishman to informus that inNorthAmericabothintheUnitedStatesandCanadaarethemostextensivepineforests in theworldThegreaterpartofNewBrunswick thenorthernhalfofMaineandadjacentpartsofCanadanot tomentionthenortheasternpartofNewYorkandothertractsfartheroffarestillcoveredwithanalmostunbrokenpineforest

ButMaineperhapswillsoonbewhereMassachusettsisAgoodpartofherterritory is alreadyasbare andcommonplaceasmuchofourneighborhoodandhervillagesgenerally arenot sowell shadedasoursWe seem to thinkthat the earth must go through the ordeal of sheep-pasturage before it ishabitablebymanConsiderNahanttheresortofallthefashionofBostonmdashwhichpeninsula I sawbut indistinctly in the twilightwhen I steamedby itandthoughtthatitwasunchangedsincethediscoveryJohnSmithdescribeditin 1614 as the Mattahunts two pleasant isles of groves gardens andcornfields and others tell us that it was once well wooded and evenfurnishedtimbertobuildthewharvesofBostonNowitisdifficulttomakeatreegrowthereandthevisitorcomesawaywithavisionofMrTudorsuglyfences a rod high designed to protect a fewpear shrubsAndwhat arewecoming to inourMiddlesex townsAbald staring town-houseormeeting-houseandabareliberty-poleasleaflessasitisfruitlessforallIcanseeWeshall be obliged to import the timber for the last hereafter or splice suchsticksaswehaveAndourideasoflibertyareequallymeanwiththeseThevery willow-rows lopped every three years for fuel or powder and everysizablepineandoakorotherforesttreecutdownwithinthememoryofmanAsifindividualspeculatorsweretobeallowedtoexportthecloudsoutoftheskyorthestarsoutofthefirmamentonebyoneWeshallbereducedtognawtheverycrustoftheearthfornutrimentThey have even descended to smaller game They have lately as I hearinvented a machine for chopping up huckleberry bushes fine and soconverting them into fuelmdashbusheswhich for fruit alone areworth all thepear trees in thecountrymanytimesover (Icangiveyoua listof the threebestkindsifyouwantit)Atthisrateweshallallbeobligedtoletourbeardsgrow at least if only to hide the nakedness of the land andmake a sylvanappearanceThe farmer sometimes talks of brushingup simply as if bareground looked better than clothed ground than thatwhichwears its naturalvesturemdashasifthewildhedgeswhichperhapsaremoretohischildrenthanhiswholefarmbesideweredirtIknowofonewhodeservestobecalledtheTree-hater and perhaps to leave this for a newpatronymic to his childrenYouwouldthinkthathehadbeenwarnedbyanoraclethathewouldbekilledby the fallof a tree and sowas resolved toanticipate themThe journaliststhink that they cannot say too much in favor of such improvements inhusbandryitisasafethemelikepietybutasforthebeautyofoneofthesemodelfarmsIwouldasliefseeapatentchurnandamanturningitTheyare commonlyplacesmerelywhere somebody ismakingmoney itmaybecounterfeitingThevirtueofmakingtwobladesofgrassgrowwhereonlyonegrewbeforedoesnotbegintobesuperhumanNevertheless it was a relief to get back to our smooth but still variedlandscapeForapermanentresidenceitseemedtomethattherecouldbeno

comparison between this and thewilderness necessary as the latter is for aresource and a background the raw material of all our civilization ThewildernessissimplealmosttobarrennessThepartiallycultivatedcountryitiswhichchieflyhasinspiredandwillcontinuetoinspirethestrainsofpoetssuchascompose themassofany literatureOurwoodsaresylvanand theirinhabitants woodmen and rustics that is selvaggia and the inhabitants aresalvagesAcivilizedmanusingthewordintheordinarysensewithhisideasand associations must at length pine there like a cultivated plant whichclasps its fibresaboutacrudeandundissolvedmassofpeatAt theextremenorth the voyagers are obliged to dance and act plays for employmentPerhaps our own woods and fieldsmdashin the best wooded towns where weneed not quarrel about the huckleberriesmdashwith the primitive swampsscatteredhereand there in theirmidstbutnotprevailingover themare theperfectionofparksandgrovesgardensarborspathsvistasandlandscapesTheyare thenaturalconsequenceofwhatartandrefinementweasapeoplehavemdashthe common which each village possesses its true paradise incomparisonwithwhichallelaboratelyandwillfullywealth-constructedparksandgardensarepaltryimitationsOrIwouldrathersaysuchwereourgrovestwenty years ago The poets commonly is not a loggers path but awoodmansTheloggerandpioneerhaveprecededhimlikeJohntheBaptisteatenthewildhoneyitmaybebutthelocustsalsobanisheddecayingwoodand the spongy mosses which feed on it and built hearths and humanizedNatureforhimBut there are spirits of a yetmore liberal culture towhomno simplicity isbarrenTherearenotonlystatelypinesbutfragileflowersliketheorchisescommonly described as too delicate for cultivation which derive theirnutriment fromthecrudestmassofpeatTheseremindus thatnotonlyforstrengthbut forbeauty thepoetmust fromtime to time travel the loggerspathandtheIndianstrailtodrinkatsomenewandmorebracingfountainoftheMusesfarintherecessesofthewildernessThekingsofEnglandformerlyhadtheirforeststoholdthekingsgameforsportor food sometimesdestroyingvillages tocreateorextend themand IthinkthattheywereimpelledbyatrueinstinctWhyshouldnotwewhohaverenouncedthekingsauthorityhaveournationalpreserveswherenovillagesneedbedestroyedinwhichthebearandpantherandsomeevenofthehunterrace may still exist and not be civilized off the face of the earthmdashourforestsnottoholdthekingsgamemerelybuttoholdandpreservethekinghimself also the lord of creationmdashnot for idle sport or food but forinspiration and our own true recreation or shall we like the villains grubthemalluppoachingonourownnationaldomains

THEALLEGASHANDEASTBRANCH

I startedonmy thirdexcursion to theMainewoodsMonday July201857withonecompanionarrivingatBangorthenextdayatnoonWehadhardlyleftthesteamerwhenwepassedMollyMolassesinthestreetAslongasshelives the Penobscots may be considered extant as a tribe The succeedingmorning a relative of mine who is well acquainted with the PenobscotIndiansandwhohadbeenmycompanioninmytwopreviousexcursionsintotheMainewoodstookmeinhiswagontoOldtowntoassistmeinobtaininganIndianforthisexpeditionWewereferriedacrosstotheIndianIslandinabatteauThe ferrymansboyhadgot thekey to itbut the fatherwhowasablacksmithafteralittlehesitationcutthechainwithacold-chiselontherockHe told me that the Indians were nearly all gone to the seaboard and toMassachusetts partly on account of the smallpoxmdashof which they are verymuchafraidmdashhavingbrokenoutinOldtownanditwasdoubtfulwhetherweshouldfindasuitableoneathomeTheoldchiefNeptunehoweverwastherestillThe firstmanwesawon the islandwasan IndiannamedJosephPoliswhommy relative had known from a boy and now addressed familiarly asJoeHewas dressing a deer-skin in his yardThe skinwas spread over aslantinglogandhewasscrapingitwithastickheldbybothhandsHewasstoutlybuiltperhapsalittleabovethemiddleheightwithabroadfaceandasotherssaidperfectIndianfeaturesandcomplexionHishousewasatwo-storywhiteonewithblindsthebest-lookingthatInoticedthereandasgoodas an average one on aNewEngland village street Itwas surrounded by agarden and fruit-trees single cornstalks standing thinly amid the beansWeaskedhimifheknewanygoodIndianwhowouldlike togointo thewoodswithus that is to theAllegashLakesbywayofMooseheadandreturnbytheEastBranchofthePenobscotorvaryfromthisaswepleasedTowhichheansweredoutofthatstrangeremotenessinwhichtheIndianeverdwellstothewhitemanMeliketogomyselfmewantstogetsomemooseandkepton scraping the skinHis brother had been into thewoodswithmy relativeonly a year or two before and the Indian now inquiredwhat the latter haddone tohim thathedidnotcomeback forhehadnotseennorheard fromhimsinceAtlengthwegotroundtothemoreinterestingtopicagainTheferrymanhadtoldus thatall thebest IndiansweregoneexceptPoliswhowasoneof thearistocracyHetobesurewouldbethebestmanwecouldhavebutifhewentatallwouldwantagreatpricesowedidnotexpecttogethimPolisaskedatfirsttwodollarsadaybutagreedtogoforadollarandahalfandfiftycentsaweek for his canoeHewould come toBangorwithhis canoeby the sevenoclock train that eveningmdashwemightdependonhimWe thoughtourselveslucky to secure the services of thismanwhowas known to be particularly

steadyandtrustworthyI spent the afternoonwithmy companionwho had remained inBangor inpreparingforourexpeditionpurchasingprovisionshard-breadporkcoffeesugaretcandsomeindia-rubberclothingWehadatfirstthoughtofexploringtheStJohnfromitssourcetoitsmouthorelsetogoupthePenobscotbyitsEastBranchtothelakesoftheStJohnandreturnbywayofChesuncookandMooseheadWehadfinallyinclinedtothelastrouteonlyreversingtheorderofitgoingbywayofMooseheadandreturningbythePenobscototherwiseitwouldhavebeenallthewayupstreamandtakentwiceaslongAteveningtheIndianarrivedinthecarsandIledthewaywhilehefollowedmethreequartersofamiletomyfriendshousewiththecanoeonhisheadIdidnotknowtheexactroutemyselfbutsteeredbythelayofthelandasIdoin Boston and I tried to enter into conversation with him but as he waspuffing under the weight of his canoe not having the usual apparatus forcarryingitbutaboveallwasanIndianImightaswellhavebeenthumpingon the bottom of his birch thewhile In answer to the various observationswhich I made by way of breaking the ice he only grunted vaguely frombeneathhiscanoeonceortwicesothatIknewhewasthereEarly the nextmorning (July 23) the stage called for us the Indian havingbreakfastedwithusandalreadyplacedthebaggageinthecanoetoseehowitwouldgoMycompanionandIhadeachalargeknapsackasfullasitwouldhold andwehad two large india-rubber bagswhich held our provision andutensilsAsfortheIndianallthebaggagehehadbesidehisaxeandgunwasablanketwhichhebroughtlooseinhishandHoweverhehadlaidinastoreof tobaccoandanewpipefor theexcursionThecanoewassecurely lasheddiagonally across the top of the stage with bits of carpet tucked under theedgetopreventitschafingTheveryaccommodatingdriverappearedasmuchaccustomedtocarryingcanoesinthiswayasbandboxesAttheBangorHousewetookinfourmenboundonahuntingexcursiononeof the men going as cook They had a dog a middling-sized brindled curwhichranbythesideofthestagehismastershowinghisheadandwhistlingfrom time to time but after we had gone about three miles the dog wassuddenlymissing and two of the partywent back for himwhile the stagewhichwasfullofpassengerswaitedIsuggestedthathehadtakenthebacktrack for theBangorHouseAt length oneman came backwhile the otherkeptonThiswholepartyofhuntersdeclaredtheirintentiontostoptillthedogwasfoundbut theveryobligingdriverwasready towaitaspell longerHewasevidentlyunwillingtolosesomanypassengerswhowouldhavetakenaprivate conveyance or perhaps the other line of stages the next day Suchprogressdidwemakewithajourneyofoversixtymilestobeaccomplished

thatdayandarain-stormjustsettinginWediscussedthesubjectofdogsandtheirinstinctstillitwasthreadbarewhilewewaitedthereandthesceneryofthesuburbsofBangor is stilldistinctly impressedonmymemoryAfter fullhalfanhour theman returned leading thedogbya ropeHehadovertakenhimjustashewasenteringtheBangorHouseHewasthentiedonthetopofthestagebutbeingwetandcoldseveraltimesinthecourseofthejourneyhejumpedoffandIsawhimdanglingbyhisneckThisdogwasdependedontostopbearswithHehadalreadystoppedonesomewhere inNewHampshireandIcantestifythathestoppedastageinMaineThispartyoffourprobablypaidnothingfor thedogsridenorforhisrunwhileourpartyof threepaidtwodollarsmdashandwerechargedfourmdashforthelightcanoewhichlaystillonthetopItsoonbegantorainandgrewmoreandmorestormyas thedayadvancedThiswasthethirdtimethatIhadpassedoverthisrouteanditrainedsteadilyeachtimealldayWeaccordinglysawbutlittleofthecountryThestagewascrowdedall theway and I attended themore tomy fellow-travelers If youhadlookedinsidethiscoachyouwouldhavethoughtthatwewerepreparedtorunthegauntletofabandofrobbersfortherewerefourorfivegunsonthefront seat the Indians included andoneor twoon thebackone eachmanholding his darling in his arms One had a gun which carried twelve to apound It appeared that this party of hunters was going our way butmuchfarthermdashdown theAllegashandSt Johnand thenceupsomeotherstreamandacrosstotheRestigoucheandtheBayofChaleurtobegonesixweeksTheyhadcanoesaxesandsuppliesdepositedsomedistancealongtherouteTheycarriedflourandweretohavenewbreadmadeeverydayTheirleaderwasahandsomemanaboutthirtyyearsoldofgoodheightbutnotapparentlyrobust of gentlemanly address and faultless toilet such a one as youmightexpecttomeetonBroadwayInfactinthepopularsenseofthewordhewasthemost gentlemanly appearingman in the stage or that we saw on theroadHehadafairwhitecomplexionasifhehadalwayslivedintheshadeandan intellectual faceandwithhisquietmannersmighthavepassedforadivinitystudentwhohadseensomethingoftheworldIwassurprisedtofindontalkingwithhiminthecourseofthedaysjourneythathewasahunteratallmdashforhisgunwasnotmuchexposedmdashandyetmore to find thathewasprobablythechiefwhitehunterofMaineandwasknownallalongtheroadHehadalsohuntedinsomeoftheStatesfarthersouthandwestIafterwardsheardhim spokenof asonewhocould endure agreat deal of exposure andfatiguewithoutshowingtheeffectof itandhecouldnotonlyusegunsbutmake them being himself a gunsmith In the spring he had saved a stage-driverandtwopassengersfromdrowninginthebackwaterofthePiscataquisinFoxcroftonthisroadhavingswumashoreinthefreezingwaterandmadearaft and got them offmdashthough the horses were drownedmdashat great risk to

himselfwhile the only othermanwho could swimwithdrew to the nearesthouse toprevent freezingHecouldnowrideover this road fornothingHeknewourmanandremarkedthatwehadagoodIndianthereagoodhunteradding that hewas said to beworth $6000The Indian also knewhim andsaidtomethegreathunterTheformertoldmethathepracticedakindofstill-huntingneworuncommonin those parts that the caribou for instance fed round and round the samemeadowreturningonthesamepathandhelayinwaitforthemThe Indian sat on the front seat saying nothing to anybody with a stolidexpression of face as if barely awake to what was going on Again I wasstruckbythepeculiarvaguenessofhisreplieswhenaddressedinthestageoratthetavernsHereallyneversaidanythingonsuchoccasionsHewasmerelystirred up like a wild beast and passively muttered some insignificantresponseHisanswerinsuchcaseswasnevertheconsequenceofapositivementalenergybutvagueasapuffofsmokesuggestingnoresponsibilityandifyouconsideredityouwouldfindthatyouhadgotnothingoutofhimThiswasinsteadoftheconventionalpalaverandsmartnessofthewhitemanandequally profitable Most get no more than this out of the Indian andpronouncehim stolid accordingly Iwas surprised to seewhat a foolish andimpertinentstyleaMainemanapassengerusedinaddressinghimas ifhewereachildwhichonlymadehiseyesglistenalittleAtipsyCanadianaskedhimatataverninadrawlingtoneifhesmokedtowhichheansweredwithan indefinite Yes Wontyou lendmeyourpipea littlewhileasked theotherHe replied looking straight by themans headwith a face singularlyvacanttoallneighboringinterestsMegotnopipeyetIhadseenhimputanewonewithasupplyoftobaccointohispocketthatmorningOur little canoe so neat and strong drew a favorable criticism from all thewiseacresamongthetavernloungersalongtheroadBytheroadsideclosetothewheelsInoticedasplendidgreatpurplefringedorchiswithaspikeasbigasanepilobiumwhich Iwould fainhavestopped the stage topluckbutasthishadneverbeenknowntostopabearlikethecuronthestagethedriverwouldprobablyhavethoughtitawasteoftimeWhenwe reached the lake about half past eight in the evening itwas stillsteadily raining andharder thanbefore and in that fresh cool atmospherethehylodeswerepeepingandthetoadsringingaboutthelakeuniversallyasin the springwithus Itwasas if the seasonhad revolvedbackward twoorthreemonthsorIhadarrivedattheabodeofperpetualspringWehadexpected togoupon the lakeatonceandafterpaddlingup twoorthreemiles to campononeof its islandsbutonaccountof the steadyandincreasingrainwedecidedtogotooneof thetavernsfor thenight thoughformyownpartIshouldhavepreferredtocampout

About four oclock the nextmorning (July 24) though it was quite cloudyaccompaniedbythelandlordtothewatersedgeinthetwilightwelaunchedourcanoefromarockontheMooseheadLakeWhenIwastherefouryearsbeforewehadarathersmallcanoeforthreepersonsandIhadthoughtthatthistimeIwouldgetalargeronebutthepresentonewasevensmallerthanthatItwas18frac14feetlongby2feet6frac12incheswideinthemiddleandonefootdeepwithinsoIfoundbymeasurementandIjudgedthatitwouldweighnotfar from eighty pounds The Indian had recently made it himself and itssmallnesswas partly compensated for by its newness aswell as stanchnessandsolidityitbeingmadeofverythickbarkandribsOurbaggageweighedabout 166pounds so that the canoe carried about 600pounds in all or theweightoffourmenTheprincipalpartofthebaggagewasasusualplacedinthemiddleofthebroadestpartwhilewestowedourselvesinthechinksandcrannies that were left before and behind it where there was no room toextendourlegstheloosearticlesbeingtuckedintotheendsThecanoewasthusascloselypackedasamarket-basketandmightpossiblyhavebeenupsetwithoutspillinganyofitscontentsTheIndiansatonacross-barinthesternbutwe flaton thebottomwitha splintorchipbehindourbacks toprotectthemfromthecross-barandoneofuscommonlypaddledwiththeIndianHeforesaw that we should not want a pole till we reached the UmbazookskusRiveritbeingeitherdeadwaterordown-streamsofarandhewaspreparedtomakeasailofhisblanketinthebowsifthewindshouldbefairbutweneveruseditIthadrainedmoreorlessthefourpreviousdayssothatwethoughtwemightcountonsomefairweatherThewindwasatfirstsouthwesterlyPaddlingalongtheeasternsideofthelakeinthestillofthemorningwesoonsaw a few sheldrakes which the Indian called Shecorways and somepeetweetsNaramekechuson therockyshorewealsosawandheard loonsMedawislawhichhe saidwas a signofwind Itwas inspiriting tohear theregulardipof thepaddlesas if theywereourfinsorflippersandtorealizethatwewereat length fairlyembarkedWewhohad felt strangelyas stage-passengersandtavern-lodgersweresuddenlynaturalizedthereandpresentedwiththefreedomofthelakesandthewoodsHavingpassedthesmallrockyisles within two or three miles of the foot of the lake we had a shortconsultation respectingour course and inclined to thewestern shore for thesakeof its leeforotherwise if thewindshouldrise itwouldbeimpossibleforustoreachMountKineowhichisaboutmidwayupthelakeontheeastsidebutatitsnarrowestpartwhereprobablywecouldrecrossifwetookthewesternsideThewindisthechiefobstacletocrossingthelakesespeciallyinso small a canoeThe Indian remarked several times that he did not like tocrossthelakesinlittlumcanoebutneverthelessjustaswesayitmadenooddstohimHesometimestookastraightcourseupthemiddleofthelake

betweenSugarandDeerislandswhentherewasnowindMeasured on themapMoosehead Lake is twelvemileswide at thewidestplaceandthirtymileslonginadirectlinebutlongerasitliesThecaptainofthesteamercalled it thirty-eightmilesashesteeredWeshouldprobablygoaboutfortyTheIndiansaidthatitwascalledMspamebecauselargewaterSquawMountainrosedarklyonourleftneartheoutletoftheKennebecandwhattheIndiancalledSpencerBayMountainontheeastandalreadywesawMountKineobeforeusinthenorthPaddling near the shore we frequently heard the pe-pe of the olive-sidedflycatcheralsothewoodpeweeandthekingfisherthusearlyinthemorningTheIndianremindingusthathecouldnotworkwithouteatingwestoppedtobreakfast on themain shore southwest of Deer Island at a spot where theMimulusringensgrewabundantlyWetookoutourbagsandtheIndianmadea fire under a very large bleached log usingwhite pinebark from a stumpthoughhesaid thathemlockwasbetterandkindlingwithcanoebirchbarkOurtablewasa largepieceoffreshlypeeledbirchbark laidwrongsideupandourbreakfastconsistedofhard-breadfriedporkandstrongcoffeewellsweetenedinwhichwedidnotmissthemilkWhileweweregettingbreakfastabroodoftwelveblackdippershalfgrowncame paddling by within three or four rods not at all alarmed and theyloitered about as long as we stayed now huddled close together within acircle of eighteen inches in diameter now moving off in a long line verycunninglyYettheyboreacertainproportiontothegreatMooseheadLakeonwhosebosomtheyfloatedandIfeltasiftheywereunderitsprotectionLookingnorthwardfromthisplaceitappearedasifwewereenteringalargebayandwedidnotknowwhetherweshouldbeobligedtodivergefromourcourse and keep outside a point which we saw or should find a passagebetweenthisandthemainlandIconsultedmymapandusedmyglassandtheIndiandidthesamebutwecouldnotfindourplaceexactlyonthemapnorcouldwedetectanybreakintheshoreWhenIaskedtheIndianthewayheansweredIdontknowwhichIthoughtremarkablesincehehadsaidthathewasfamiliarwiththelakebut itappearedthathehadneverbeenupthisside Itwasmistydog-dayweatherandwehadalreadypenetratedasmallerbayofthesamekindandknockedthebottomoutofitthoughwehadbeenobligedtopassoverasmallbarbetweenanislandandtheshorewheretherewasbutjustbreadthanddepthenoughtofloatthecanoeandtheIndianhadobservedVeryeasymakumbridgeherebutnowitseemedthatifweheldon we should be fairly embayed Presently however though we had notstirredthemistliftedsomewhatandrevealedabreakintheshorenorthwardshowing that thepointwasaportionofDeer Islandand thatourcourse laywestwardofitWhereithadseemedacontinuousshoreeventhroughaglass

oneportionwasnowseenbythenakedeyetobemuchmoredistantthantheotherwhichoverlappeditmerelybythegreater thicknessof themistwhichstillrestedonitwhilethenearerorislandportionwascomparativelybareandgreen The line of separationwas very distinct and the Indian immediatelyremarked I guess you and I go theremdashI guess theres room formy canoethere This was his common expression instead of saying we He neveraddressedusbyournamesthoughcurioustoknowhowtheywerespelledandwhat they meant while we called him Polis He had already guessed veryaccuratelyatouragesandsaidthathewasforty-eightAfterbreakfastIemptiedthemeltedporkthatwasleft intothelakemakingwhatsailorscallaslickandwatchingtoseehowmuchitspreadoverandsmoothed the agitated surface The Indian looked at it a moment and saidThatmakehardpaddlumthroholdemcanoeSosayoldtimesWehastilyreloadedputtingthedisheslooseinthebowsthattheymightbeathand when wanted and set out again The western shore near which wepaddled along rose gently to a considerable height and was everywheredenselycoveredwiththeforestinwhichwasalargeproportionofhardwoodtoenlivenandrelievethefirandspruceThe Indian said that the usnea lichenwhichwe sawhanging from the treeswascalledchorchorqueWeaskedhimthenamesofseveralsmallbirdswhichwe heard this morning The wood thrush which was quite common andwhose note he imitated he said was called Adelungquamooktum butsometimeshecouldnot tell thenameof somesmallbirdwhich Iheardandknew but he said I tell all the birds about heremdashthis country cant telllittlumnoisebutIseeemthenIcantellIobservedthatIshouldliketogotoschooltohimtolearnhislanguagelivingontheIndianislandthewhilecouldnotthatbedoneOhyerherepliedgoodmanydosoIaskedhowlonghethought itwouldtakeHesaidoneweekItoldhimthatinthisvoyageIwouldtellhimallIknewandheshouldtellmeallheknewtowhichhereadilyagreedThe birds sang quite as in our woodsmdashthe red-eye redstart veery woodpeweeetcbutwesawnobluebirdsinallourjourneyandseveraltoldmeinBangor that they had not the bluebird there Mount Kineo which wasgenerallyvisiblethoughoccasionallyconcealedbyislandsorthemainlandinfronthadalevelbarofcloudconcealingitssummitandallthemountain-topsabout the lake were cut off at the same height Ducks of various kindsmdashsheldrake summerducks etcmdashwerequite commonand ranover thewaterbeforeusasfastasahorsetrotsThustheyweresoonoutofsightTheIndianaskedthemeaningofrealityasnearasIcouldmakeoutthewordwhich he said one of us had used also of interrent that is intelligent I

observed that he could rarely sound the letter r but used l as also r for lsometimes as load for road pickelel for pickerel Soogle Island for SugarIslandlockforrocketcYethetrilledtherprettywellaftermeHegenerallyaddedthesyllableumtohiswordswhenhecouldmdashaspaddlumetc I have once heard a Chippeway lecture whomade his audience laughunintentionally by puttingm after the word too which word he brought incontinuallyandunnecessarilyaccentingandprolongingthissoundintom-ahsonorouslyasifitwerenecessarytobringinsomuchofhisvernacularasarelieftohisorgansacompensationfortwistinghisjawsaboutandputtinghistongueintoeverycornerofhismouthashecomplainedthathewasobligedtodowhenhespokeEnglishTherewassomuchoftheIndianaccentresoundingthroughhisEnglishsomuchofthebow-arrowtangasmyneighborcallsitand Ihavenodoubt thatwordseemed tohim thebestpronounced Itwasawild and refreshing sound like that of the wind among the pines or theboomingofthesurfontheshoreI asked him the meaning of the word Musketicook the Indian name ofConcord River He pronounced it Muskeacuteeticook emphasizing the secondsyllable with a peculiar guttural sound and said that it meant deadwaterwhichitisandinthisdefinitionheagreedexactlywiththeStFrancisIndianwithwhomItalkedin1853OnapointonthemainlandsomemilessouthwestofSand-barIslandwherewe landed to stretchour legsand lookat thevegetationgoing inlanda fewstepsIdiscoveredafirestillglowingbeneathitsasheswheresomebodyhadbreakfastedandabedoftwigspreparedforthefollowingnightSoIknewnotonlythattheyhadjustleftbutthattheydesignedtoreturnandbythebreadthof the bed that therewasmore than one in the partyYoumight have gonewithin six feet of these signs without seeing them There grew the beakedhazeltheonlyhazelwhichIsawonthisjourneythediervillaruesevenfeethighwhichwasveryabundantonall the lakeand river shores andCornusstoloniferaorredosierwhosebarktheIndiansaidwasgoodtosmokeandwas calledmaquoxigill tobacco beforewhite people came to this countryIndiantobaccoTheIndianwasalwaysverycareful inapproaching theshore lestheshouldinjurehiscanoeontherockslettingitswingroundslowlysidewiseandwasstillmoreparticularthatweshouldnotstepintoitonshorenortillitfloatedfreeandthenshouldstepgentlylestweshouldopenitsseamsormakeaholeinthebottomHesaidthathewouldtelluswhentojumpSoonafter leaving this pointwepassed theKennebec or outlet of the lakeand heard the falls at the dam there for evenMooseheadLake is dammedAfterpassingDeerIslandwesawthelittlesteamerfromGreenvillefareastin themiddleof the lakeandsheappearednearlystationarySometimeswe

couldhardlytellherfromanislandwhichhadafewtreesonitHerewewereexposedtothewindfromoverthewholebreadthofthelakeandranalittleriskofbeingswampedWhile Ihadmyeye fixedon thespotwherea largefishhadleapedwetookinagallonortwoofwaterwhichfilledmylapbutwesoonreachedtheshoreandtookthecanoeoverthebaratSand-barIslandafewfeetwideonlyandsosavedaconsiderabledistanceOnelandedfirstatamoreshelteredplaceandwalking roundcaught thecanoeby theprow topreventitbeinginjuredagainsttheshoreAgain we crossed a broad bay opposite the mouth ofMoose River beforereaching the narrow strait atMountKineomadewhat the voyageurs call atraverse and found thewaterquite roughAvery littlewindon thesebroadlakesraisesaseawhichwillswampacanoeLookingofffromtheshorethesurfacemayappeartobeverylittleagitatedalmostsmoothamiledistantorifyouseeafewwhitecreststheyappearnearlylevelwiththerestofthelakebutwhenyougetoutsofaryoumayfindquiteasearunninganderelongbeforeyouthinkofitawavewillgentlycreepupthesideofthecanoeandfillyour lap like a monster deliberately covering you with its slime before itswallowsyouoritwillstrikethecanoeviolentlyandbreakintoitThesamethingmayhappenwhenthewindrisessuddenlythoughitwereperfectlycalmandsmooththereafewminutesbeforesothatnothingcansaveyouunlessyoucanswimashoreforitisimpossibletogetintoacanoeagainwhenitisupset Since you sit flat on the bottom though the danger should not beimminentalittlewaterisagreatinconveniencenottomentionthewettingofyour provisionsWe rarely crossed even a bay directly frompoint to pointwhentherewaswindbutmadeaslightcurvecorrespondingsomewhattotheshorethatwemightthesoonerreachitifthewindincreasedWhen thewind isaftandnot toostrong the IndianmakesaspritsailofhisblanketHethuseasilyskimsoverthewholelengthofthislakeinadayTheIndianpaddledononesideandoneofusontheothertokeepthecanoesteadyandwhenhewantedtochangehandshewouldsayTothersideHeassertedinanswertoourquestionsthathehadneverupsetacanoehimselfthoughhemayhavebeenupsetbyothersThinkofour littleeggshellofacanoe tossingacross thatgreat lake amereblackspecktotheeaglesoaringaboveitMycompanion trailedfor troutaswepaddledalongbut theIndianwarninghimthatabigfishmightupsetusfortherearesomeverylargeonesthereheagreed to pass the line quickly to him in the stern if he had a biteBesidestroutIheardofcuskwhitefishetcasfoundinthislakeWhile wewere crossing this bay whereMount Kineo rose dark before uswithin two or three miles the Indian repeated the tradition respecting this

mountainshavingancientlybeenacowmoosemdashhowamightyIndianhunterwhosenameIforgetsucceededinkillingthisqueenofthemoosetribewithgreat difficulty while her calf was killed somewhere among the islands inPenobscotBayandtohiseyesthismountainhadstilltheformofthemooseina recliningposture itsprecipitoussidepresenting theoutlineofherheadHe told this at some length though it did not amount to much and withapparent good faith and asked us howwe supposed the hunter could havekilledsuchamightymooseasthatmdashhowwecoulddoitWhereuponaman-of-war to firebroadsides intoherwas suggested etcAn Indian tells suchastoryasifhethoughtitdeservedtohaveagooddealsaidaboutitonlyhehasnotgot it to say and sohemakesup for thedeficiencybyadrawling tonelong-windednessandadumbwonderwhichhehopeswillbecontagiousWe approached the land again through pretty roughwater and then steereddirectlyacrossthelakeatitsnarrowestparttotheeasternsideandweresoonpartlyundertheleeofthemountainaboutamilenorthoftheKineoHousehavingpaddledabouttwentymilesItwasnowaboutnoonWe designed to stop there that afternoon and night and spent half an hourlookingalongtheshorenorthwardforasuitableplacetocampWetookoutallourbaggageatoneplaceinvainitbeingtoorockyandunevenandwhileengagedinthissearchwemadeourfirstacquaintancewiththemoose-flyAtlength half amile farther north by going half a dozen rods into the densespruceandfirwoodonthesideofthemountainalmostasdarkasacellarwefoundaplacesufficientlyclearandleveltoliedownonaftercuttingawayafewbushesWerequiredaspaceonlysevenfeetbysix forourbed the firebeingfourorfivefeetinfrontthoughitmadenooddshowroughthehearthwasbut itwasnotalwayseasy to find this in thosewoodsTheIndianfirstclearedapathtoitfromtheshorewithhisaxeandwethencarriedupallourbaggage pitched our tent andmade our bed in order to be ready for foulweather which then threatened us and for the night He gathered a largearmfuloffirtwigsbreakingthemoffwhichhesaidwerethebestforourbedpartly I thought because they were the largest and could be most rapidlycollectedIthadbeenrainingmoreorlessforfourorfivedaysandthewoodwasevendamper thanusualbuthegotdrybarkfor thefire fromtheundersideofadeadleaninghemlockwhichhesaidhecouldalwaysdoThisnoonhismindwasoccupiedwitha lawquestionandI referredhimtomycompanionwhowasa lawyer Itappeared thathehadbeenbuying landlately(Ithinkitwasahundredacres)buttherewasprobablyanincumbrancetoitsomebodyelseclaimingtohaveboughtsomegrassonitforthisyearHewished to know towhom the grass belonged andwas told that if the othermancouldprovethatheboughtthegrassbeforehePolisboughtthelandtheformer could take it whether the latter knew it or not To which he only

answered StrangeHewent over this several times fairly sat down to itwithhisbacktoatreeasifhemeanttoconfineustothistopichenceforthbutashemadenoheadwayonlyreachedthejumping-offplaceofhiswonderatwhitemensinstitutionsaftereachexplanationweletthesubjectdieHe said that he had fifty acres of grass potatoes etc somewhere aboveOldtownbesidessomeabouthishousethathehiredagooddealofhisworkhoeing etc andpreferredwhitemen to Indiansbecause theykeep steadyandknowhowAfterdinnerwereturnedsouthwardalongtheshoreinthecanoeonaccountof the difficulty of climbing over the rocks and fallen trees and began toascend the mountain along the edge of the precipice But a smart showercoming up just then the Indian crept under his canoe while we beingprotectedbyourrubbercoatsproceededtobotanizeSowesenthimbacktothecampforshelteragreeingthatheshouldcomethereforuswithhiscanoetoward night It had rained a little in the forenoon andwe trusted that thiswouldbetheclearing-upshowerwhichitprovedbutourfeetandlegswerethoroughlywet by the bushes The clouds breaking away a littlewe had aglorious wild view as we ascended of the broad lake with its fluctuatingsurface and numerous forest-clad islands extending beyond our sight bothnorthandsouthandtheboundlessforestundulatingawayfromitsshoresonevery side as densely packed as a rye-field and enveloping namelessmountainsinsuccessionbutabovealllookingwestwardoveralargeislandwasvisibleaverydistantpartofthelakethoughwedidnotthensuspectittobeMooseheadmdashatfirstamerebrokenwhitelineseenthroughthetopsoftheislandtreeslikehay-capsbutspreadingtoalakewhenwegothigherBeyondthis we saw what appears to be called Bald Mountain on the map sometwenty-fivemilesdistantnear thesourcesof thePenobscot Itwasaperfectlakeof thewoodsBut thiswasonlya transientgleam for the rainwasnotquiteoverLooking southward the heavens were completely overcast the mountainscapped with clouds and the lake generally wore a dark and stormyappearancebutfromitssurfacejustnorthofSugarIslandsixoreightmilesdistant therewas reflectedupward tous through themisty air abrightbluetinge from thedistantunseenskyofanother latitudebeyondTheyprobablyhad a clear sky then atGreenville the south endof the lakeStandingon amountain in themidst of a lakewherewouldyou look for the first signofapproachingfairweatherNotintotheheavensitseemsbutintothelakeAgainwemistookalittlerockyisletseenthroughthedriskwithsometallerbaretrunksorstumpsonitforthesteamerwithitssmoke-pipesbutasithadnotchangeditspositionafterhalfanhourwewereundeceivedSomuchdothe works ofman resemble the works of nature Amoosemightmistake a

steamer for a floating isle and not be scared till he heard its puffing or itswhistleIf I wished to see a mountain or other scenery under the most favorableauspicesIwouldgotoitinfoulweathersoastobetherewhenitclearedupwearetheninthemostsuitablemoodandnatureismostfreshandinspiringThereisnoserenitysofairasthatwhichisjustestablishedinatearfuleyeJackson in his Report on the Geology of Maine in 1838 says of thismountainHornstonewhichwillanswerforflintsoccursinvariouspartsoftheStatewheretrap-rockshaveacteduponsiliciousslateThelargestmassofthisstoneknownintheworldisMountKineouponMooseheadLakewhichappearstobeentirelycomposedofitandrisessevenhundredfeetabovethelakelevelThisvarietyofhornstoneIhaveseenineverypartofNewEnglandintheformofIndianarrowheadshatchetschiselsetcwhichwereprobablyobtained from thismountain by the aboriginal inhabitants of the country Ihavemyself foundhundredsof arrowheadsmadeof the samematerial It isgenerally slate-coloredwithwhite specksbecomingauniformwhitewhereexposed to the light and air and it breaks with a conchoidal fractureproducingaraggedcuttingedgeInoticedsomeconchoidalhollowsmorethanafootindiameterIpickedupasmallthinpiecewhichhadsosharpanedgethatIuseditasadullknifeandtoseewhatIcoulddofairlycutoffanaspenoneinchthickwithitbybendingitandmakingmanycutsthoughIcutmyfingersbadlywiththebackofitinthemeanwhileFromthesummitoftheprecipicewhichformsthesouthernandeasternsidesofthismountainpeninsulaandisitsmostremarkablefeaturebeingdescribedasfiveorsixhundredfeethighwelookedandprobablymighthavejumpeddownto thewateror to theseeminglydwarfish treeson thenarrowneckofland which connects it with the main It is a dangerous place to try thesteadiness of your nerves Hodge says that these cliffs descendperpendicularlyninetyfeetbelowthesurfaceofthewaterThe plants which chiefly attracted our attention on this mountain were themountaincinquefoil(Potentillatridentata)abundantandinbloomstillat theverybase by thewaterside though it is usually confined to the summits ofmountainsinourlatitudeverybeautifulharebellsoverhangingtheprecipicebear-berry the Canada blueberry (Vaccinium Canadense) similar to the VPennsylvanicum our earliest one but entire-leaved andwith a downy stemand leaf (I have not seen it inMassachusetts) Diervilla trifidaMicrostylisophioglossoides an orchidaceous plant new to uswild holly (NemopanthesCanadensis)thegreatround-leavedorchis(Platantheraorbiculata)notlonginbloomSpiranthescernuaat the topbunchberry reddeningasweascendedgreenatthebaseofthemountainredatthetopandthesmallfernWoodsiailvensisgrowingintuftsnowinfruitIhavealsoreceivedLiparisliliifoliaor

tway-bladefromthisspotHavingexploredthewondersofthemountainandtheweather being now entirely cleared upwe commenced the descentWemet the Indian puffing and panting about one third of the way up butthinkingthathemustbenearthetopandsayingthatittookhisbreathawayIthought that superstition had something to do with his fatigue Perhaps hebelievedthathewasclimbingoverthebackofatremendousmooseHesaidthathehadneverascendedKineoOnreachingthecanoewefoundthathehadcaughtalaketroutweighingaboutthreepoundsatthedepthoftwenty-fiveorthirtyfeetwhilewewereonthemountainWhenwegottothecampthecanoewastakenoutandturnedoverandaloglaidacrossittopreventitsbeingblownawayTheIndiancutsomelargelogsof dampand rottenhardwood to smoulder andkeep fire through the nightThe trout was fried for supper Our tent was of thin cotton cloth and quitesmall formingwith thegrounda triangularprismclosedat the rearendsixfeet long seven wide and four high so that we could barely sit up in themiddle It required two forked stakes a smooth ridge-pole and a dozen ormore pins to pitch it It kept off dew and wind and an ordinary rain andanswered our purposewell enoughWe reclinedwithin it till bedtime eachwithhisbaggageathisheadorelsesatabout thefirehavinghungourwetclothesonapolebeforethefireforthenightAswe sat there just before night lookingout through the duskywood theIndianheardanoisewhichhesaidwasmadebyasnakeHeimitateditatmyrequest making a low whistling notemdashpheetmdashpheetmdashtwo or three timesrepeatedsomewhatlikethepeepofthehylodesbutnotsoloudInanswertomyinquirieshesaidthathehadneverseenthemwhilemakingitbutgoingtothespothefinds thesnakeThishesaidonanotheroccasionwasasignofrainWhenIhadselectedthisplaceforourcamphehadremarkedthatthereweresnakes theremdashhesawthemBut theywontdoanyhurtIsaidOhnoheansweredjustasyousayitmakesnodifferencetomeHelayontherightsideofthetentbecauseashesaidhewaspartlydeafinone ear and he wanted to lie with his good ear up As we lay there heinquiredifIeverheardIndiansingIrepliedthatIhadnotoftenandaskedhimifhewouldnotfavoruswithasongHereadilyassentedandlyingonhis back with his blanket wrapped around him he commenced a slowsomewhatnasalyetmusicalchantinhisownlanguagewhichprobablywastaughthis tribe longagoby theCatholicmissionariesHe translated it toussentence by sentence afterwardwishing to see ifwe could remember it Itproved tobe avery simple religious exerciseorhymn theburdenofwhichwasthattherewasonlyoneGodwhoruledalltheworldThiswashammered(or sung)outvery thin so that somestanzaswell-nighmeantnothingatallmerelykeepinguptheideaHethensaidthathewouldsingusaLatinsong

butwedidnotdetectanyLatinonlyoneortwoGreekwordsinitmdashtherestmayhavebeenLatinwiththeIndianpronunciationHissingingcarriedmebacktotheperiodofthediscoveryofAmericatoSanSalvadorandtheIncaswhenEuropeansfirstencounteredthesimplefaithofthe IndianTherewas indeed abeautiful simplicityabout itnothingof thedarkandsavageonlythemildandinfantileThesentimentsofhumilityandreverencechieflywereexpressedItwasadenseanddampspruceandfirwoodinwhichwelayandexceptforourfireperfectlydarkandwhenIawokeinthenightIeitherheardanowlfromdeeper in theforestbehindusora loonfromadistanceover the lakeGettingupsome timeaftermidnight tocollect thescatteredbrands togetherwhilemycompanionsweresoundasleepIobservedpartlyinthefirewhichhad ceased to blaze a perfectly regular elliptical ring of light about fiveinchesinitsshortestdiametersixorseveninitslongerandfromoneeighthtoonequarterofaninchwideItwasfullyasbrightasthefirebutnotreddishorscarletlikeacoalbutawhiteandslumberinglightliketheglow-wormsIcouldtellitfromthefireonlybyitswhitenessIsawatoncethatitmustbephosphorescentwoodwhichIhadsooftenheardofbutneverchancedtoseePuttingmyfingeronitwithalittlehesitationIfoundthatitwasapieceofdeadmoose-wood(Acerstriatum)which theIndianhadcutoff inaslantingdirection the evening before Using my knife I discovered that the lightproceededfromthatportionofthesap-woodimmediatelyunderthebarkandthuspresentedaregularringattheendwhichindeedappearedraisedabovethe levelof thewoodandwhenIparedoff thebarkandcut into thesap itwasallaglowalongthelogIwassurprisedtofindthewoodquitehardandapparentlysoundthoughprobablydecayhadcommencedinthesapandIcutoutsomelittle triangularchipsandplacingtheminthehollowofmyhandcarriedthemintothecampwakedmycompanionandshowedthemtohimThey lit up the inside of my hand revealing the lines and wrinkles andappearingexactly likecoalsof fire raised toawhiteheatand I sawatoncehow probably the Indian jugglers had imposed on their people and ontravelerspretendingtoholdcoalsoffireintheirmouthsIalsonoticedthatpartofadecayedstumpwithinfourorfivefeetofthefirean inchwide and six inches long soft and shakingwood shonewith equalbrightnessIneglectedtoascertainwhetherourfirehadanythingtodowiththisbutthepreviousdaysrainandlong-continuedwetweatherundoubtedlyhadIwasexceedinglyinterestedbythisphenomenonandalreadyfeltpaidformyjourney It could hardly have thrilled me more if it had taken the form oflettersorofthehumanfaceIfIhadmetwiththisringoflightwhilegropingin this forest alone away from any fire I should have been still more

surprisedIlittlethoughtthattherewassuchalightshininginthedarknessofthewildernessformeThenextdaytheIndiantoldmetheirnameforthislightmdashartoosoqumdashandonmyinquiringconcerningthewill-o-the-wispandthelikephenomenahesaidthathisfolkssometimessawfirespassingalongatvariousheightsevenashighasthetreesandmakinganoiseIwaspreparedafterthistohearofthemoststartlingandunimaginedphenomenawitnessedbyhisfolkstheyareabroad at all hours and seasons in scenes so unfrequented by white menNaturemusthavemadeathousandrevelationstothemwhicharestillsecretstousI did not regret my not having seen this before since I now saw it undercircumstancessofavorableIwasinjusttheframeofmindtoseesomethingwonderful and this was a phenomenon adequate to my circumstances andexpectation and it putme on the alert to seemore like it I exulted like apagansuckledinacreedthathadneverbeenwornatallbutwasbran-newandadequatetotheoccasionIletscienceslideandrejoicedinthatlightasifithadbeenafellowcreatureIsawthatitwasexcellentandwasverygladtoknowthatitwassocheapAscientificexplanationasitiscalledwouldhavebeenaltogetheroutofplace thereThat is forpaledaylightSciencewith itsretortswouldhaveputmetosleepitwastheopportunitytobeignorantthatIimprovedItsuggestedtomethat therewassomethingtobeseenifonehadeyes Itmade a believer ofmemore than before I believed that thewoodswerenottenantlessbutchoke-fullofhonestspiritsasgoodasmyselfanydaymdashnotanemptychamber inwhichchemistrywas left toworkalonebutaninhabited housemdashand for a few moments I enjoyed fellowship with themYourso-calledwisemangoestryingtopersuadehimselfthatthereisnoentitytherebuthimselfandhistrapsbutitisagreatdealeasiertobelievethetruthItsuggestedtoothatthesameexperiencealwaysgivesbirthtothesamesortofbeliefor religionOne revelationhasbeenmade to the Indiananother tothewhitemanIhavemuchtolearnoftheIndiannothingofthemissionaryIamnotsurebutallthatwouldtemptmetoteachtheIndianmyreligionwouldbehispromisetoteachmehisLongenoughIhadheardofirrelevantthingsnowat length Iwasglad tomakeacquaintancewith the light thatdwells inrottenwoodWhereisallyourknowledgegonetoItevaporatescompletelyforithasnodepthIkeptthoselittlechipsandwetthemagainthenextnightbuttheyemittednolightSATURDAYJuly25At breakfast this Saturday morning the Indian evidently curious to knowwhatwouldbeexpectedofhimthenextdaywhetherweshouldgoalongornot asked me how I spent the Sunday when at home I told him that I

commonlysatinmychamberreadingetcintheforenoonandwenttowalkin theafternoonAtwhichheshookhisheadandsaidEr that isverbadHowdoyouspenditIaskedHesaidthathedidnoworkthathewenttochurch at Oldtown when he was at home in short he did as he had beentaughtbythewhitesThisledtoadiscussioninwhichIfoundmyselfintheminorityHestatedthathewasaProtestantandaskedmeifIwasIdidnotatfirstknowwhattosaybutIthoughtthatIcouldanswerwithtruththatIwasWhenwewerewashingthedishesinthelakemanyfishesapparentlychivincamecloseuptoustogettheparticlesofgreaseTheweatherseemedtobemoresettledthismorningandwesetoutearlyinorder to finish our voyage up the lake before the wind arose Soon afterstarting the Indian directed our attention to the Northeast Carry which wecouldplainlyseeaboutthirteenmilesdistantinthatdirectionasmeasuredonthemapthoughitiscalledmuchfartherThiscarryisarudewoodenrailroadrunningnorthandsouthabout twomilesperfectlystraight fromthe lake tothePenobscotthroughalowtractwithaclearingthreeorfourrodswidebutlowasitisitpassesovertheheightoflandthereThisopeningappearedasaclear bright or light point in the horizon resting on the edge of the lakewhosebreadthahaircouldhavecoveredataconsiderabledistancefromtheeye and of no appreciable height We should not have suspected it to bevisibleiftheIndianhadnotdrawnourattentiontoitItwasaremarkablekindoflighttosteerformdashdaylightseenthroughavistaintheforestmdashbutvisibleasfarasanordinarybeaconatnightWe crossed a deep and wide bay which makes eastward north of KineoleavinganislandonourleftandkeepinguptheeasternsideofthelakeThiswayorthatledtosomeTomheganorSocatarianstreamupwhichtheIndianhadhuntedandwhitherIlongedtogoThelastnamehoweverhadabogussoundtoomuchlikesectarianformeasifamissionaryhadtamperedwithitbutIknewthattheIndianswereveryliberalIthinkIshouldhaveinclinedtotheTomheganfirstWethencrossedanotherbroadbaywhichaswecouldnolongerobservetheshoreparticularlyaffordedampletimeforconversationTheIndiansaidthathe had got his money by hunting mostly high up theWest Branch of thePenobscot and toward theheadof theSt Johnhehadhunted there fromaboyandknewallaboutthatregionHisgamehadbeenbeaverotterblackcat(orfisher)sablemooseetcLoup-cervier(orCanadalynx)wereplentyyetinburntgroundsForfoodinthewoodsheusespartridgesducksdriedmoose-meathedgehogetcLoonstooweregoodonlybileemgoodHetoldusat some lengthhowhehadsuffered fromstarvationwhenamere ladbeingovertakenbywinterwhenhuntingwithtwogrownIndiansinthenorthernpartofMaineandobligedtoleavetheircanoeonaccountofice

Pointing into thebayhe said that itwas theway tovarious lakeswhichheknewOnlysolemnbear-hauntedmountainswith theirgreatwoodedslopeswerevisiblewhereasmanisnotwesupposesomeotherpower tobeMyimaginationpersonifiedtheslopesthemselvesasifbytheirverylengththeywouldwaylayyouandcompelyoutocampagainonthembeforenightSomeinvisiblegluttonwouldseemtodropfromthetreesandgnawattheheartofthesolitaryhunterwhothreadedthosewoodsandyetIwastemptedtowalkthereTheIndiansaidthathehadbeenalongthereseveraltimesI askedhimhowheguidedhimself in thewoods Oh said he I can tellgoodmanywaysWhen I pressed him further he answered Sometimes Ilookum side-hill and he glanced toward a high hill or mountain on theeasternshoregreatdifferencebetweenthenorthandsouthseewherethesunhas shonemost So treesmdashthe large limbs bend toward south Sometimes Ilookum locks (rocks) I asked what he saw on the rocks but he did notdescribeanythinginparticularansweringvaguelyinamysteriousordrawlingtoneBarelocksonlakeshoremdashgreatdifferencebetweennorthsoutheastwest sidemdashcan tell what the sun has shone on Suppose said I that Ishouldtakeyouinadarknightrightuphereintothemiddleofthewoodsahundredmilessetyoudownandturnyouroundquicklytwentytimescouldyou steer straight toOldtown Oh yer said he have done prettymuchsame thing I will tell you Some years ago I met an old white hunter atMillinocketverygoodhunterHesaidhecouldgoanywhereinthewoodsHewanted to hunt with me that day so we start We chase a moose all theforenoonroundandroundtillmiddleofafternoonwhenwekillhimThenIsaid tohim Nowyougostraight tocampDontgoroundandroundwherewevebeenbutgostraightHesaidIcantdothatIdontknowwhereIamWhereyouthinkcampIaskedHepointedsoThenI laughathimI taketheleadandgorightofftheotherwaycrossourtracksmanytimesstraightcamp How do you do that asked I Oh I cant tell you he repliedGreatdifferencebetweenmeandwhitemanIt appeared as if the sources of informationwere so various that he did notgiveadistinctconsciousattentiontoanyoneandsocouldnotreadilyrefertoanywhenquestionedabout itbuthefoundhiswayverymuchasananimaldoesPerhapswhat iscommonlycalled instinct in theanimal in thiscase ismerelyasharpenedandeducatedsenseOftenwhenanIndiansaysIdontknowinregardtotherouteheistotakehedoesnotmeanwhatawhitemanwouldbythosewordsforhisIndianinstinctmaytellhimstillasmuchasthemost confidentwhitemanknowsHedoesnot carry things inhis head norremember the route exactly like a white man but relies on himself at themomentNothavingexperiencedtheneedoftheothersortofknowledgealllabeledandarrangedhehasnotacquiredit

ThewhitehunterwithwhomItalkedinthestageknewsomeoftheresourcesof the Indian He said that he steered by the wind or by the limbs of thehemlocks which were largest on the south side also sometimes when heknew that therewas a lake near by firing his gun and listening to hear thedirectionanddistanceoftheechofromoveritThecoursewetookoverthislakeandothersafterwardwasrarelydirectbutasuccessionofcurvesfrompoint topointdigressingconsiderablyintoeachof thebaysand thiswasnotmerelyonaccountof thewind for the Indianlookingtowardthemiddleof the lakesaid itwashard togothereeasier tokeepneartheshorebecausehethusgotoveritbysuccessivereachesandsawbytheshorehowhegotalongThe following will suffice for a common experience in crossing lakes in acanoeAstheforenoonadvancedthewindincreasedThelastbaywhichwecrossed before reaching the desolate pier at theNortheastCarrywas twoorthreemilesover and thewindwas southwesterlyAftergoinga thirdof theway thewaveshadincreasedsoasoccasionally towashinto thecanoeandwe saw that it was worse and worse ahead At first we might have turnedabout but were not willing to It would have been of no use to follow thecourseoftheshorefornotonlythedistancewouldhavebeenmuchgreaterbutthewavesranstillhigherthereonaccountofthegreatersweepthewindhad At any rate it would have been dangerous now to alter our coursebecausethewaveswouldhavestruckusatanadvantageItwillnotdotomeetthematrightanglesforthentheywillwashinbothsidesbutyoumusttakethemquarteringSotheIndianstoodupinthecanoeandexertedallhisskillandstrengthforamileortwowhileIpaddledrightalonginordertogivehimmore steerage-wayFormore than amile hedidnot allowa singlewave tostrikethecanoeasitwouldbutturneditquicklyfromthissidetothatsothatitwouldalwaysbeonornearthecrestofawavewhenitbrokewhereallitsforcewasspentandwemerelysettleddownwithitAtlengthI jumpedoutontotheendofthepieragainstwhichthewavesweredashingviolently inorder to lighten the canoe and catch it at the landingwhichwas notmuchsheltered but just as I jumped we took in two or three gallons of water Iremarked to the Indian Youmanaged thatwell towhichhe replied VerfewmendothatGreatmanywaveswhenI lookoutforoneanothercomequickWhile the Indian went to get cedar bark etc to carry his canoe with wecooked the dinner on the shore at this end of the carry in the midst of asprinklingrainHe prepared his canoe for carrying in thiswiseHe took a cedar shingle orsplinteighteenincheslongandfourorfivewideroundedatoneendthatthecornersmightnotbeinthewayandtieditwithcedarbarkbytwoholesmade

midway near the edge on each side to the middle cross-bar of the canoeWhen the canoe was lifted upon his head bottom up this shingle with itsrounded end uppermost distributed theweight over his shoulders and headwhileabandofcedarbark tied to thecross-baroneachsideof theshinglepassedroundhisbreastandanotherlongeroneoutsideofthelastroundhisforeheadalsoahandoneachside-rail served tosteer thecanoeandkeep itfromrockingHethuscarrieditwithhisshouldersheadbreastforeheadandbothhandsasiftheupperpartofhisbodywereallonehandtoclaspandholdit If you know of a better way I should like to hear of it A cedar treefurnishedallthegearinthiscaseasithadthewoodworkofthecanoeOneofthe paddles rested on the cross-bars in the bows I took the canoe uponmyheadandfoundthatIcouldcarryitwitheasethoughthestrapswerenotfittedto my shoulders but I let him carry it not caring to establish a differentprecedentthoughhesaidthatifIwouldcarrythecanoehewouldtakealltherestofthebaggageexceptmycompanionsThisshingleremainedtiedtothecross-bar throughout the voyagewas always ready for the carries and alsoservedtoprotectthebackofonepassengerWewereobliged togoover this carry twiceour loadwas sogreatBut thecarrieswereanagreeablevarietyandweimprovedtheopportunitytogathertherareplantswhichwehadseenwhenwereturnedemptyhandedWe reached the Penobscot about four oclock and found there some StFrancisIndiansencampedonthebankinthesameplacewhereIcampedwithfourIndiansfouryearsbeforeTheyweremakingacanoeandasthendryingmoose-meatThemeatlookedverysuitabletomakeablackbrothatleastOurIndiansaiditwasnotgoodTheircampwascoveredwithsprucebarkTheyhadgotayoungmoosetakenintheriverafortnightbeforeconfinedinasortof cage of logs piled up cob-fashion seven or eight feet high It was quitetameabout four feethigh andcoveredwithmoose-fliesTherewasa largequantity of cornel (C stolonifera) red maple and also willow and aspenboughsstuckthroughbetweenthelogsonallsidesbuttendsoutandontheirleavesitwasbrowsingItlookedatfirstasifitwereinabowerratherthanapenOurIndiansaidthatheusedblacksprucerootstosewcanoeswithobtainingit from high lands or mountains The St Francis Indian thought thatwhitespruce rootsmightbebestBut the formersaid Nogoodbreakcant splitemalsothattheywerehardtogetdeepingroundbuttheblackwerenearthesurfaceonhigherlandaswellas tougherHesaidthat thewhitesprucewas subekoondark black skusk I told him I thought that I could make acanoebutheexpressedgreatdoubtofitatanyratehethoughtthatmyworkwouldnotbeneatthefirsttimeAnIndianatGreenvillehadtoldmethatthewinterbarkthatisbarktakenoffbeforethesapflowsinMaywasharderand

muchbetterthansummerbarkHaving reloaded we paddled down the Penobscot which as the Indianremarked and even I detected remembering how it looked before wasuncommonly full We soon after saw a splendid yellow lily (LiliumCanadense)bytheshorewhichIpluckedItwassixfeethighandhadtwelveflowers in twowhorls formingapyramid suchas Ihave seen inConcordWeafterwardsawmanymore thus tallalongthisstreamandalsostillmorenumerous on the East Branch and on the latter one which I thoughtapproached yet nearer to the Lilium superbum The Indian asked what wecalleditandsaidthattheloots(roots)weregoodforsoupthatistocookwithmeattothickenittakingtheplaceofflourTheygettheminthefallIdugsomeandfoundamassofbulbsprettydeep in theearth twoinches indiameterlookingandeventastingsomewhatlikerawgreencornontheearWhenwehadgoneaboutthreemilesdownthePenobscotwesawthroughthetree-tops a thunder-shower coming up in the west and we looked out acamping-place in good season about five oclock on thewest side not farbelow themouthofwhat JoeAitteon in 53calledLobsterStreamcomingfromLobsterPondOurpresentIndianhoweverdidnotadmitthisnamenoreven that of Matahumkeag which is on the map but called the lakeBeskabekukI will describe once for all the routine of camping at this season WegenerallytoldtheIndianthatwewouldstopatthefirstsuitableplacesothathemightbeonthelookoutforitHavingobservedaclearhardandflatbeachtolandonfreefrommudandfromstoneswhichwouldinjurethecanoeonewouldrunupthebanktoseeiftherewereopenandlevelspaceenoughforthecampbetweenthetreesorifitcouldbeeasilyclearedpreferringatthesametimeacoolplaceonaccountofinsectsSometimeswepaddledamileormorebefore findingone toourminds forwhere the shorewas suitable thebankwouldoftenbetoosteeporelsetoolowandgrassyandthereforemosquitoeyWe then took out the baggage and drewup the canoe sometimes turning itover on shore for safetyThe Indian cut a path to the spotwehad selectedwhichwasusuallywithintwoorthreerodsofthewaterandwecarriedupourbaggageOneperhapstakescanoebirchbarkalwaysathandanddeaddrywoodorbarkandkindlesafirefiveorsixfeetinfrontofwhereweintendtolieItmattersnotcommonlyonwhichsidethisisbecausethereislittleornowindinsodenseawoodatthatseasonandthenhegetsakettleofwaterfromthe river and takes out the pork bread coffee etc from their severalpackagesAnothermeanwhilehavingtheaxecutsdownthenearestdeadrockmapleorother dry hardwood collecting several large logs to last through the nightalso agreen stakewith anotchor fork to itwhich is slantedover the fire

perhapsrestingonarockorforkedstaketohangthekettleonandtwoforkedstakesandapoleforthetentThe third man pitches the tent cuts a dozen or more pins with his knifeusuallyofmoose-woodthecommonunderwoodtofastenitdownwithandthen collects an armful or two of fir twigs arbor-vitaelig spruce or hemlockwhicheverisathandandmakesthebedbeginningateitherendandlayingthe twigswrong side up in regular rows covering the stub ends of the lastrowfirsthoweverfillingthehollowsifthereareanywithcoarsermaterialWrangel says that his guides in Siberia first strewed a quantity of drybrushwoodonthegroundandthencedartwigsonthatCommonlybythetimethebedismadeorwithinfifteenortwentyminutesthewaterboilstheporkisfriedandsupperisreadyWeeatthissittingontheground or a stump if there is any around a large piece of birch bark for atableeachholdingadipperinonehandandapieceofship-breadorfriedporkintheotherfrequentlymakingapasswithhishandorthrustinghisheadintothesmoketoavoidthemosquitoesNext pipes are lit by thosewho smoke andveils aredonnedby thosewhohave themandwehastilyexamineanddryourplants anointour facesandhandsandgotobedmdashandmdashthemosquitoesThoughyouhavenothingtodobutseethecountrytheresrarelyanytimetospare hardly enough to examine a plant before the night or drowsiness isuponyouSuchwastheordinaryexperiencebutthiseveningwehadcampedearlieronaccountoftherainandhadmoretimeWefound thatourcampto-nightwasonanoldandnowmore thanusuallyindistinct supply road running along the riverWhat is called a road thereshowsnorutsortraceofwheelsfortheyarenotusednorindeedofrunnerssincetheyareusedonlyinthewinterwhenthesnowisseveralfeetdeepItisonlyanindistinctvistathroughthewoodwhichittakesanexperiencedeyetodetectWehadnosoonerpitchedour tent than the thunder-showerburstonusandwehastilycreptunderitdrawingourbagsafteruscurioustoseehowmuchofashelterourthincottonroofwasgoingtobeinthisexcursionThoughtheviolenceoftherainforcedafineshowerthroughtheclothbeforeitwasfairlywettedandshrunkwithwhichwewerewellbedewedwemanaged tokeepprettydryonlyaboxofmatcheshavingbeenleftoutandspoiledandbeforewe were aware of it the shower was over and only the dripping treesimprisonedusWishingtoseewhatfishestherewereintherivertherewecastourlinesoverthewetbusheson the shorebut theywere repeatedly sweptdown the swift

streaminvainSoleavingtheIndianwetookthecanoejustbeforedarkanddroppeddowntheriverafewrodstofishatthemouthofasluggishbrookonthe opposite sideWe pushed up this a rod or two where perhaps only acanoe had been before But though there were a few small fishes mostlychivin there we were soon driven off by the mosquitoes While there weheardtheIndianfirehisguntwiceinsuchrapidsuccessionthatwethoughtitmustbedouble-barreledthoughweobservedafterwardthatitwassingleHisobjectwastocleanoutanddryitaftertherainandhethenloadeditwithballbeing now on ground where he expected to meet with large game Thissuddenloudcrashingnoiseinthestillaislesoftheforestaffectedmelikeaninsulttonatureorillmannersatanyrateasifyouweretofireaguninahallor temple It was not heard far however except along the river the soundbeingrapidlyhusheduporabsorbedbythedamptreesandmossygroundTheIndianmadealittlesmotheredfireofdampleavesclosetothebackofthecamp that the smokemightdrive throughandkeepout themosquitoesbutjustbeforewefellasleepthissuddenlyblazedupandcamenearsettingfiretothetentWewereconsiderablymolestedbymosquitoesatthiscampSUNDAYJuly26The note of the white-throated sparrow a very inspiriting but almost wirysoundwas the first heard in themorning andwith this all thewoods rangThiswastheprevailingbirdinthenorthernpartofMaineTheforestgenerallywasallalivewiththematthisseasonandtheywereproportionallynumerousand musical about Bangor They evidently breed in that State Thoughcommonly unseen their simple ah te-te-te te-te-te te-te-te so sharp andpiercingwasasdistincttotheearasthepassageofasparkoffireshotintothedarkestoftheforestwouldbetotheeyeIthoughtthattheycommonlyuttereditas theyflewIhear thisnotefora fewdaysonly in thespringas theygothroughConcord and in the fall see them again going southward but thentheyaremuteWewere commonly arousedby their lively strainvery earlyWhataglorioustimetheymusthaveinthatwildernessfarfrommankindandelectiondayI told the Indian that we would go to church to Chesuncook this (Sunday)morning some fifteenmiles Itwas settledweather at lastA few swallowsflittedoverthewaterweheardMarylandyellow-throatsalongtheshorethephebenotesofthechickadeeandIbelieveredstartsandmoose-fliesoflargesizepursuedusinmidstreamTheIndianthoughtthatweshouldliebyonSundaySaidheWecomeherelookum things look all round but come Sunday lock up all that and thenMondaylookagainHespokeofanIndianofhisacquaintancewhohadbeenwithsomeministerstoKtaadnandhadtoldhimhowtheyconductedThishedescribedinalowandsolemnvoiceTheymakealongprayereverymorning

andnightandateverymealComeSundaysaidhetheystopemnogoatall that daymdashkeep stillmdashpreach all daymdashfirst one then another just likechurch Oh ver goodmen One day said he going along a river theycametothebodyofamaninthewaterdrownedgoodwhileallreadyfalltopiecesTheygorightashoremdashstoptheregonofartherthatdaymdashtheyhavemeetingtherepreachandprayjust likeSundayThentheygetpolesandliftup the body and they go back and carry the bodywith themOh they vergoodmenI judged from this account that their every campwas a camp-meeting andtheyhadmistakentheirroutemdashtheyshouldhavegonetoEasthamthat theywantedanopportunitytopreachsomewheremorethantoseeKtaadnIreadofanothersimilarpartythatseemtohavespenttheirtimetheresingingthesongsofZionIwasgladthatIdidnotgotothatmountainwithsuchslowcoachesHowever theIndianaddedplyingthepaddleall thewhile that ifwewouldgoalonghemustgowithusheourmanandhesupposethatifhenotakumpay forwhat he do Sunday then thers no harm but if he takum pay thenwrongItoldhimthathewasstricterthanwhitemenNeverthelessInoticedthathedidnotforgettoreckonintheSundaysatlastHeappearedtobeaveryreligiousmanandsaidhisprayersinaloudvoiceinIndian kneeling before the camp morning and eveningmdashsometimesscramblingupagaininhastewhenhehadforgottenthisandsayingthemwithgreatrapidityInthecourseofthedayheremarkednotveryoriginallyPoormanrememberumGodmorethanrichWe soon passed the island where I had camped four years before and Irecognized thevery spotThedeadwater amile or twobelow it the Indiancalled Beskabekukskishtuk from the lake Beskabekuk which empties inaboveThisdeadwaterhesaidwasagreatplaceformoosealwaysWesawthegrassbentwhereamoosecameout thenightbeforeandtheIndiansaidthathecouldsmelloneas farashecouldseehimbutheadded that ifheshouldseefiveorsixto-dayclosebycanoehenoshootemAccordinglyashewastheonlyoneofthepartywhohadagunorhadcomea-hunting themooseweresafeJust below this a cat owl flew heavily over the stream and he asking if Iknewwhatitwasimitatedverywellthecommonhoohoohoohoorerhooof our woodsmaking a hard guttural sound Ugh ugh ughmdashugh ughWhen we passed the Moose-horn he said that it had no name What JoeAitteonhad calledRagmuff he calledPaytaytequick and said that itmeantBurntGroundStreamWe stopped therewhere I had stopped before and Ibathed in this tributary Itwas shallowbut cold apparently too cold for theIndian who stood looking on As we were pushing away again a white-headedeagle sailedoverourheadsA reachsomemilesabovePineStream

wheretherewereseveralislandstheIndiansaidwasNonglangyisDeadwaterPine Stream he called Black River and said that its Indian name wasKarsaootukHecouldgotoCaribouLakethatwayWe carried a part of the baggage about Pine StreamFallswhile the IndianwentdowninthecanoeABangormerchanthadtoldusthattwomeninhisemployweredrowned some timeagowhilepassing these falls in abatteauandathirdclungtoarockallnightandwastakenoffinthemorningTherewere magnificent great purple fringed orchises on this carry and theneighboring shores I measured the largest canoe birch which I saw in thisjourneyneartheendofthecarryItwas14frac12feetincircumferenceattwofeetfrom thegroundbut at five feetdivided into threepartsThecanoebirchesthereaboutswerecommonlymarkedbyconspicuousdarkspiralridgeswithagroove between so that I thought at first that they had been struck bylightningbutas theIndiansaid itwasevidentlycausedby thegrainof thetreeHecutasmallwoodyknobasbigasafilbert fromthe trunkofafirapparently an old balsamvesicle filledwithwoodwhich he saidwas goodmedicineAfterwehadembarkedandgonehalfamilemycompanionrememberedthathe had left his knife andwe paddled back to get it against the strong andswift currentThis taught us the difference between going up and down thestream for while we were working our way back a quarter of a mile weshouldhavegonedownamileandahalfatleastSowelandedandwhileheand the Indianwere gone back for it Iwatched themotions of the foam akindofwhitewater-fowlneartheshorefortyorfiftyrodsbelowItalternatelyappeared and disappeared behind the rock being carried round by an eddyEventhissemblanceoflifewasinterestingonthatlonelyriverImmediatelybelowthesefallswastheChesuncookDeadwatercausedbytheflowingbackofthelakeAswepaddledslowlyoverthistheIndiantoldusastory of his hunting thereabouts and something more interesting abouthimselfItappearedthathehadrepresentedhistribeatAugustaandalsoonceatWashingtonwherehehadmetsomeWesternchiefsHehadbeenconsultedat Augusta and gave advice which he said was followed respecting theeastern boundary ofMaine as determined by highlands and streams at thetimeof thedifficultieson thatsideHewasemployedwith thesurveyorsonthe lineAlsohehadcalledonDanielWebster inBoston at the timeofhisBunkerHillorationI was surprised to hear him say that he liked to go to Boston New YorkPhiladelphiaetcetcthathewouldliketolivethereButthenasifrelentingalittlewhenhethoughtwhatapoorfigurehewouldmakethereheaddedIsuppose I live inNewYork I be poorest hunter I expectHe understoodverywellbothhissuperiorityandhisinferioritytothewhitesHecriticisedthe

people of the United States as compared with other nations but the onlydistinctideawithwhichhelaboredwasthattheywereverystrongbutlikesomeindividualstoofastHemusthavethecreditofsayingthisjustbeforethe general breaking down of railroads and banks He had a great idea ofeducation and would occasionally break out into such expressions as thisKademymdasha-cad-e-mymdashgood thingmdashI suppose they usum Fifth ReaderthereYoubeencollegeFromthisdeadwatertheoutlinesofthemountainsaboutKtaadnwerevisibleThe top ofKtaadnwas concealed by a cloud but the SouneunkMountainswerenearerandquitevisibleWesteeredacrossthenorthwestendofthelakefromwhichwe lookeddownsouth-southeast thewhole length toJoeMerryMountain seenover its extremity It is an agreeable change to cross a lakeafteryouhavebeenshutupinthewoodsnotonlyonaccountofthegreaterexpanseofwaterbutalsoofskyItisoneofthesurpriseswhichNaturehasinstore for the traveler in the forestTo lookdown in thiscaseovereighteenmilesofwaterwasliberatingandcivilizingevenNodoubttheshortdistancetowhichyoucanseeinthewoodsandthegeneraltwilightwouldatlengthreact on the inhabitants andmake them salvages The lakes also reveal themountains and give ample scope and range to our thought The very gullswhich we saw sitting on the rocks like white specks or circling aboutremindedmeof custom-houseofficersAlready therewerehalf a dozen loghutsabout thisendof the lake thoughso far froma road Iperceive that inthesewoodstheearliestsettlementsareforvariousreasonsclusteringaboutthe lakes but partly I think for the sake of the neighborhood as the oldestclearingsTheyareforestschoolsalreadyestablishedmdashgreatcentresoflightWater is a pioneer which the settler follows taking advantage of itsimprovementsThusfaronlyIhadbeenbeforeAboutnoonweturnednorthwardupabroadkindofestuaryandatitsnortheastcornerfoundtheCaucomgomocRiverandafter going about a mile from the lake reached the Umbazookskus whichcomesinontherightatapointwheretheformerrivercomingfromthewestturns short to the south Our course was up the Umbazookskus but as theIndianknewofagoodcamping-place that isacoolplacewheretherewerefew mosquitoes about half a mile farther up the Caucomgomoc we wentthither The latter river judging from the map is the longer and principalstream and therefore itsnamemustprevail below the junctionSoquicklywe changed the civilizing sky of Chesuncook for the dark wood of theCaucomgomocOnreaching theIndianscamping-groundon thesouthsidewherethebankwasaboutadozenfeethighIreadonthetrunkofafirtreeblazedbyanaxeaninscriptionincharcoalwhichhadbeenleftbyhimItwassurmountedbyadrawingofabearpaddlingacanoewhichhesaidwas thesignwhich had been used by his family alwaysThe drawing though rude

couldnotbemistaken foranythingbutabearandhedoubtedmyability tocopyitTheinscriptionranthusverbatimetliteratimIinterlinetheEnglishofhisIndianashegaveittomeJuly261853

niasosebWealoneJosephPoliselioiPolisstartsiaoltaforOldtownonkenirightawayquambiJuly151855niasosebHeaddednowbelowmdash1857July26JoPolis

This was one of his homes I saw where he had sometimes stretched hismoose-hidesontheoppositeorsunnynorthsideoftheriverwheretherewasanarrowmeadowAfter we had selected a place for our camp and kindled our fire almostexactly on the site of the Indians last camphere he looking up observedThattreedangerItwasadeadpartmorethanafootindiameterofalargecanoebirchwhichbranchedat thegroundThisbranch rising thirty feetormoreslanteddirectlyover thespotwhichwehadchosenforourbedI toldhimtotryitwithhisaxebuthecouldnotshakeitperceptiblyandthereforeseemedinclinedtodisregarditandmycompanionexpressedhiswillingnesstoruntheriskButitseemedtomethatweshouldbefoolstolieunderitforthough the lower part was firm the top for aught we knew might be justreadytofallandweshouldatanyratebeveryuneasyifthewindaroseinthe

nightItisacommonaccidentformencampinginthewoodstobekilledbyafallingtreeSothecampwasmovedtotheothersideofthefireItwasasusualadampandshaggyforest thatCaucomgomoconeand themost you knew about it was that on this side it stretched toward thesettlements and on that to still more unfrequented regions You carried somuchtopographyinyourmindalwaysmdashandsometimesitseemedtomakeaconsiderable difference whether you sat or lay nearer the settlements orfartheroffthanyourcompanionsmdashweretherearorfrontiermanofthecampButthereisreallythesamedifferencebetweenourpositionswhereverwemaybecampedandsomearenearerthefrontiersonfeather-bedsinthetownsthanothersonfirtwigsinthebackwoodsThe Indian said that the Umbazookskus being a dead stream with broadmeadowswasagoodplaceformooseandhefrequentlycamea-huntingherebeingoutalonethreeweeksormorefromOldtownHesometimesalsowenta-hunting to the Seboois Lakes taking the stage with his gun andammunition axe and blankets hard-bread and pork perhaps for a hundredmilesof thewayand jumpedoffat thewildestplaceon the roadwherehewasatonceathomeandevery rodwasa tavern-site forhimThen after ashort journeythroughthewoodshewouldbuildaspruce-barkcanoeinoneday putting but few ribs into it that itmight be light and after doing hishuntingwithitonthelakeswouldreturnwithhisfursthesamewayhehadcomeThusyouhaveanIndianavailinghimselfcunninglyoftheadvantagesof civilizationwithout losing anyof hiswoodcraft but provinghimself themoresuccessfulhunterforitThismanwasverycleverandquicktolearnanythinginhislineOurtentwasofakindnewtohimbutwhenhehadonceseenitpitcheditwassurprisinghowquicklyhewouldfindandpreparethepoleandforkedstakestopitchitwithcuttingandplacing themright the first time thoughIamsure that themajorityofwhitemenwouldhaveblunderedseveraltimesThisrivercamefromCaucomgomocLakeabouttenmilesfartherupThoughitwassluggishhere therewerefallsnotfaraboveusandwesawthefoamfromthemgobyfromtimetotimeTheIndiansaidthatCaucomgomocmeantBig-GullLake(ieherringgullIsuppose)gomocmeaninglakeHencethiswasCaucomgomoctookor the river from that lakeThiswas thePenobscotCaucomgomoctooktherewasanotherStJohnonenotfarnorthHefindstheeggsof this gull sometimes twenty together as big as hens eggs on rockyledgesonthewestsideofMillinocketRiverforinstanceandeatsthemNow I thought I would observe how he spent his SundayWhile I andmycompanionwerelookingaboutatthetreesandriverhewenttosleepIndeedheimprovedeveryopportunitytogetanapwhatevertheday

RamblingaboutthewoodsatthiscampInoticedthattheyconsistedchieflyoffirsblackspruceandsomewhiteredmaplecanoebirchandalongtheriver the hoary alder (Alnus incana) I name them in the order of theirabundanceTheViburnumnudumwasacommonshrubandofsmallerplantstherewerethedwarfcornelgreatround-leavedorchisabundantandinbloom(agreenish-whiteflowergrowingin littlecommunities)UvulariagrandiflorawhosestemtastedlikeacucumberPyrolasecundaapparentlythecommonestpyrola in those woods now out of bloomPyrola elliptica and Chiogeneshispidula TheClintonia borealis with ripe berrieswas very abundant andperfectlyathome there Its leavesdisposedcommonly in trianglesabout itsstemwere justashandsomelyformedandgreenand itsberriesasblueandglossyasifitgrewbysomebotanistsfavoritepathIcould trace theoutlinesof largebirches thathadfallen longagocollapsedand rotted and turned to soil by faint yellowish-green lines of feather-likemoss eighteen incheswide and twenty or thirty feet long crossed by othersimilarlinesIheardanight-warblerwoodthrushkingfishertweezer-birdorparti-coloredwarbler and a nighthawk I also heard and saw red squirrels and heard abullfrogTheIndiansaidthatheheardasnakeWild as it was it was hard for me to get rid of the associations of thesettlementsAnysteadyandmonotonoussoundtowhichIdidnotdistinctlyattend passed for a sound of human industry Thewaterfallswhich I heardwerenotwithouttheirdamsandmillstomyimaginationandseveraltimesIfound that I had been regarding the steady rushing sound of thewind fromover the woods beyond the rivers as that of a train of carsmdashthe cars atQuebecOurmindsanywherewhenlefttothemselvesarealwaysthusbusilydrawingconclusionsfromfalsepremisesIaskedtheIndiantomakeusasugar-bowlofbirchbarkwhichhedidusingthegreatknifewhichdangledinasheathfromhisbeltbutthebarkbrokeatthecornerswhenhebentitupandhesaiditwasnotgoodthattherewasagreatdifferenceinthisrespectbetweenthebarkofonecanoebirchandthatofanother i e one cracked more easily than another I used some thin anddelicatesheetsofthisbarkwhichhesplitandcutinmyflower-bookthinkingitwouldbegoodtoseparatethedriedspecimensfromthegreenMy companionwishing to distinguish between the black andwhite spruceaskedPolis to showhima twigof the latterwhichhedidatonce togetherwiththeblackindeedhecoulddistinguishthemaboutasfarashecouldseethembutasthetwotwigsappearedverymuchalikemycompanionaskedtheIndian to point out the difference whereupon the latter taking the twigsinstantlyremarkedashepassedhishandoverthemsuccessivelyinastrokingmanner that the white was rough (i e the needles stood up nearly

perpendicular)buttheblacksmooth(ieasifbentorcombeddown)Thiswasanobviousdifferenceboth to sightand touchHowever if I rememberrightly thiswould not serve to distinguish thewhite spruce from the light-coloredvarietyoftheblackI asked him to letme see him get some black spruce root andmake somethreadWhereuponwithoutlookingupatthetreesoverheadhebegantogrubinthegroundinstantlydistinguishingtheblacksprucerootsandcuttingoffaslenderonethreeorfourfeetlongandasbigasapipe-stemhesplittheendwith his knife and taking a half between the thumb and forefinger of eachhandrapidlyseparateditswholelengthintotwoequalsemicylindricalhalvesthen giving me another root he said You try But in my hands itimmediately ran off one side and I got only a very short piece In shortthoughitlookedveryeasyIfoundthattherewasagreatartinsplittingtheserootsThesplitisskillfullyhumoredbybendingshortwiththishandorthatandsokeptinthemiddleHethentookoffthebarkfromeachhalfpressingashort pieceof cedar bark against the convex sidewithbothhandswhilehedrewtherootupwardwithhisteethAnIndiansteetharestrongandInoticedthatheusedhisoftenwhereweshouldhaveusedahandTheyamountedtoathird handHe thus obtained in amoment a very neat tough and flexiblestringwhichhecouldtieintoaknotormakeintoafish-lineevenItissaidthat inNorwayandSweden the rootsof theNorway spruce (Abies excelsa)are used in the sameway for the same purposeHe said that youwould beobligedtogivehalfadollarforsprucerootenoughforacanoethuspreparedHehadhired thesewingofhisowncanoe thoughhemadeall therestTherootinhiscanoewasofapaleslate-colorprobablyacquiredbyexposuretotheweatherorperhapsfrombeingboiledinwaterfirstHehaddiscoveredthedaybeforethathiscanoeleakedalittleandsaidthatitwasowingtosteppingintoitviolentlywhichforcedthewaterundertheedgeofthehorizontalseamsonthesideIaskedhimwherehewouldgetpitchtomend it with for they commonly use hard pitch obtained of the whites atOldtown He said that he could make something very similar and equallygoodnotof sprucegumor the likebutofmaterialwhichwehadwithusandhewishedmetoguesswhatButIcouldnotandhewouldnot tellmethoughheshowedmeaballofitwhenmadeasbigasapeaandlikeblackpitchsayingatlastthatthereweresomethingswhichamandidnottellevenhis wife It may have been his own discovery In Arnolds expedition thepioneersusedfortheircanoetheturpentineofthepineandthescrapingsofthepork-bagBeingcurioustoseewhatkindoffishestherewereinthisdarkdeepsluggishriver Icast inmy line justbeforenightandcaughtseveral small somewhatyellowish sucker-like fishes which the Indian at once rejected saying that

theyweremichigan fish (i e soft and stinking fish) and good for nothingAlsohewouldnottouchapoutwhichIcaughtandsaidthatneitherIndiansnorwhitesthereaboutseveratethemwhichIthoughtwassingularsincetheyare esteemed inMassachusetts and he had told me that he ate hedgehogsloons etc But he said that some small silvery fishes which I calledwhitechivinwhichweresimilarinsizeandformtothefirstwerethebestfishinthePenobscotwatersandifIwouldtossthemupthebanktohimhewouldcookthemformeAftercleaningthemnotverycarefullyleavingtheheadsonhelaidthemonthecoalsandsobroiledthemReturningfromashortwalkhebroughtavineinhishandandaskedmeifIknewwhatitwassayingthatitmadethebestteaofanythinginthewoodsItwasthecreepingsnowberry(Chiogeneshispidula)whichwasquitecommonthereitsberriesjustgrownHecalleditcowosnebagosarwhichnameimpliesthat it grows where old prostrate trunks have collapsed and rotted So wedeterminedtohavesometeamadeofthisto-nightIthadaslightcheckerberryflavorandwebothagreedthatitwasreallybetterthantheblackteawhichwehadbroughtWethoughtitquiteadiscoveryandthatitmightwellbedriedand sold in the shops I for one however am not an old tea-drinker andcannotspeakwithauthoritytoothersItwouldhavebeenparticularlygoodtocarry along for a cold drink during the day the water thereabouts beinginvariably warm The Indian said that they also used for tea a certain herbwhich grew in low ground which he did not find there and ledum orLabrador teawhich I have since found and tried inConcord also hemlockleaves the last especially in thewinterwhen the other plantswere coveredwith snow and various other things but he did not approve of arbor-vitaeligwhichIsaidIhaddrunkinthosewoodsWecouldhavehadanewkindofteaeverynightJustbeforenightwesawamusquash(hedidnotsaymuskrat) theonlyonewe saw in this voyage swimming downward on the opposite side of thestreamTheIndianwishingtogetonetoeathushedussayingStopmecallemandsittingflatonthebankhebegantomakeacurioussqueakingwirysoundwithhis lipsexertinghimselfconsiderablyIwasgreatlysurprisedmdashthoughtthatIhadatlastgotintothewildernessandthathewasawildmanindeedtobetalkingtoamusquashIdidnotknowwhichofthetwowasthestrangest tome He seemed suddenly to have quite forsaken humanity andgoneover to themusquashsideThemusquashhoweverasnearas Icouldseedidnot turnaside thoughhemayhavehesitateda littleand the Indiansaidthathesawourfirebutitwasevidentthathewasinthehabitofcallingthemusquash tohimashesaidAnacquaintanceofminewhowashuntingmooseinthosewoodsamonthafterthistellsmethathisIndianinthiswayrepeatedly called themusquashwithin reachofhispaddle in themoonlightandstruckatthem

TheIndiansaidaparticularlylongprayerthisSundayeveningasiftoatoneforworkinginthemorningMONDAYJuly27HavingrapidlyloadedthecanoewhichtheIndianalwayscarefullyattendedtothatitmightbewelltrimmedandeachhavingtakenalookasusualtoseethat nothing was left we set out again descending the Caucomgomoc andturningnortheasterlyuptheUmbazookskusThisnametheIndiansaidmeantMuchMeadowRiverWe found it a verymeadowy stream and deadwaterandnowverywideonaccountoftherainsthoughhesaiditwassometimesquitenarrowThespacebetweenthewoodschieflybaremeadowwasfromfiftytotwohundredrodsinbreadthandisarareplaceformooseItremindedme of the Concord and what increased the resemblance was one oldmusquash-housealmostafloatInthewateronthemeadowsgrewsedgeswool-grassthecommonblueflagabundantlyitsflowerjustshowingitselfabovethehighwaterasifitwereabluewater-lilyandhigherinthemeadowsagreatmanyclumpsofapeculiarnarrow-leaved willow (Salix petiolaris) which is common in our rivermeadows It was the prevailing one here and the Indian said that themusquashatemuchofitandherealsogrewtheredosier(Cornusstolonifera)itslargefruitnowwhitishThoughitwasstillearlyinthemorningwesawnighthawkscirclingoverthemeadow and asusualheard thepepe (MuscicapaCooperi)which is oneoftheprevailingbirdsinthesewoodsandtherobinItwasunusual for thewoods tobe sodistant from the shore and therewasquite an echo from thembutwhen Iwas shouting inorder to awake it theIndianremindedmethatIshouldscarethemoosewhichhewaslookingoutfor and which we all wanted to see The word for echowasPockadunkquaywayleAbroadbeltofdeadlarchtreesalongthedistantedgeofthemeadowagainsttheforestoneachsideincreasedtheusualwildnessofthesceneryTheIndiancalled these juniper and said that they had been killed by the backwatercaused by the dam at the outlet of Chesuncook Lake some twenty milesdistant I plucked at the waters edge the Asclepias incarnata with quitehandsomeflowersabrighterredthanourvariety(thepulchra)ItwastheonlyformofitwhichIsawthereHavingpaddledseveralmilesuptheUmbazookskusitsuddenlycontractedtoamerebrooknarrowand swift the larches andother trees approaching thebankandleavingnoopenmeadowandwelandedtogetablacksprucepoleforpushingagainst the streamThiswas the firstoccasion foroneTheoneselectedwasquiteslendercutabouttenfeetlongmerelywhittledtoapoint

andthebarkshavedoffThestreamthoughnarrowandswiftwasstilldeepwithamuddybottomas Iprovedbydiving to itBeside theplantswhichIhavementioned I observedon thebankhere theSalix cordata and rostrataRanunculusrecurvatusandRubustrifloruswithripefruitWhilewewerethusemployedtwoIndiansinacanoehoveinsightroundthebushescomingdownstreamOurIndianknewoneofthemanoldmanandfell into conversation with him in Indian He belonged at the foot ofMooseheadTheotherwasofanothertribeTheywerereturningfromhuntingIasked theyounger if theyhadseenanymoose towhichhesaidnobut Iseeing the moose-hides sticking out from a great bundle made with theirblankets in themiddleof the canoe added Only theirhidesAshewasaforeignerhemayhavewishedtodeceivemeforitisagainstthelawforwhitemenandforeignerstokillmooseinMaineatthisseasonButperhapsheneednothavebeenalarmedforthemoose-wardensarenotveryparticularIheardquitedirectlyofonewhobeingaskedbyawhitemangoing into thewoodswhathewouldsayifhekilledamooseansweredIfyoubringmeaquarterof it I guess you wont be troubled His duty being as he said only toprevent theindiscriminateslaughterof themfor theirhides I suppose thathe would consider it an indiscriminate slaughter when a quarter was notreservedforhimselfSucharetheperquisitesofthisofficeWecontinuedalongthroughthemostextensivelarchwoodwhichIhadseenmdashtall and slender trees with fantastic branches But though this was theprevailingtreehereIdonotrememberthatwesawanyafterwardYoudonotfind straggling treesof this specieshere and there throughout thewoodbutratheralittleforestofthemThesameisthecasewiththewhiteandredpinesandsomeothertreesgreatlytotheconvenienceofthelumbererTheyareofasocialhabitgrowinginveinsclumpsgroupsorcommunitiesastheexplorerscall themdistinguishingthemfarawayfromthetopofahilloratreethewhitepinestoweringabovethesurroundingforestorelsetheyformextensive forests by themselves I should have liked to come across a largecommunityofpineswhichhadneverbeeninvadedbythelumberingarmyWesawsomefreshmoose-tracksalongtheshorebuttheIndiansaidthatthemoosewerenotdrivenoutofthewoodsbythefliesasusualatthisseasononaccountoftheabundanceofwatereverywhereThestreamwasonlyfromoneandonehalftothreerodswidequitewindingwithoccasionalsmallislandsmeadows and some very swift and shallow places When we came to anislandtheIndianneverhesitatedwhichsidetotakeasifthecurrenttoldhimwhichwastheshortestanddeepestItwasluckyforusthatthewaterwassohighWehadtowalkbutonceonthisstreamcarryingapartoftheloadataswiftandshallowreachwhilehegotupwiththecanoenotbeingobligedtotakeoutthoughhesaiditwasverystrongwaterOnceortwicewepassedthe

redwreckofabatteauwhichhadbeenstovesomespringWhilemakingthisportageIsawmanysplendidspecimensofthegreatpurplefringed orchis three feet high It is remarkable that such delicate flowersshouldhereadornthesewildernesspathsHaving resumed our seats in the canoe I felt the Indian wiping my backwhichhehadaccidentallyspatuponHesaiditwasasignthatIwasgoingtobemarriedThe Umbazookskus River is called ten miles long Having poled up thenarrowestpartsomethreeorfourmilesthenextopeningintheskywasoverUmbazookskusLakewhichwesuddenlyenteredaboutelevenoclockintheforenoon It stretches northwesterly four or fivemileswithwhat the Indiancalled the CaucomgomocMountain seen far beyond it It was an agreeablechangeThis lakewasveryshallowa longdistancefromtheshoreandIsawstone-heaps on the bottom like those in theAssabet at homeThe canoe ran intooneThe Indian thought that theyweremadebyaneel JoeAitteon in1853thoughtthattheyweremadebychubWecrossedthesoutheastendofthelaketothecarryintoMudPondUmbazookskusLakeis theheadof thePenobscot in thisdirectionandMudPond is thenearestheadof theAllegashoneof thechief sourcesof theStJohnHodgewhowentthroughthiswaytotheStLawrenceintheserviceoftheStatecallstheportagehereamileandthreequarterslongandstatesthatMud Pond has been found to be fourteen feet higher than UmbazookskusLake As the West Branch of the Penobscot at the Moosehead carry isconsideredabouttwenty-fivefeetlowerthanMooseheadLakeitappearsthatthe Penobscot in the upper part of its course runs in a broad and shallowvalley between the Kennebec and St John and lower than either of themthoughjudgingfromthemapyoumightexpectittobethehighestMudPond is abouthalfway fromUmbazookskus toChamberlainLake intowhichitemptiesandtowhichwewereboundTheIndiansaidthatthiswasthe wettest carry in the State and as the season was a very wet one weanticipated an unpleasant walk As usual he made one large bundle of thepork-keg cooking-utensils and other loose traps by tying them up in hisblanketWeshouldbeobligedtogooverthecarrytwiceandourmethodwastocarryonehalfpartwayandthengobackfortherestOurpathranclosebythedoorofaloghutinaclearingatthisendofthecarrywhich the Indianwhoaloneentered it found tobeoccupiedbyaCanadianand his family and that the man had been blind for a year He seemedpeculiarlyunfortunatetobetakenblindtherewherethereweresofeweyestoseeforhimHecouldnotevenbeledoutofthatcountrybyadogbutmustbe

takendowntherapidsaspassivelyasabarrelofflourThiswasthefirsthouseaboveChesuncookandthelastonthePenobscotwatersandwasbuiltherenodoubtbecauseitwastherouteofthelumberersinthewinterandspringAfteraslightascentfromthelakethroughthespringysoiloftheCanadiansclearing we entered on a level and very wet and rocky path through theuniversal dense evergreen forest a loosely paved gutter merely where wewent leapingfromrock to rockandfromside toside in thevainattempt tokeepoutofthewaterandmudWeconcludedthatitwasyetPenobscotwaterthoughtherewasnoflowtoitItwasonthiscarrythatthewhitehunterwhomImet in the stage as he toldme had shot two bears a fewmonths beforeTheystooddirectly in thepathanddidnot turnoutforhimTheymightbeexcusedfornot turningout thereoronly taking therightas the lawdirectsHesaidthatatthisseasonbearswerefoundonthemountainsandhillsidesinsearchofberriesandwereapttobesaucymdashthatwemightcomeacrossthemupTroutStreamandheaddedwhatIhardlycreditedthatmanyIndianssleptintheircanoesnotdaringtosleeponlandonaccountofthemHerecommenceswhatwascalled twentyyearsago thebest timber land inthe State This very spot was described as covered with the greatestabundance of pine but now this appeared to me comparatively anuncommon tree theremdashandyetyoudidnot seewhereanymorecouldhavestoodamidthedensegrowthofcedarfiretcItwasthenproposedtocutacanal from lake to lakeherebut theoutletwas finallymade farther east atTelosLakeasweshallseeTheIndianwithhiscanoesoondisappearedbeforeusbutere longhecameback and told us to take a path which turned off westward it being betterwalkingandatmysuggestionheagreedtoleaveaboughintheregularcarryatthatplacethatwemightnotpassitbymistakeThereafterhesaidweweretokeepthemainpathandheaddedYouseeemmytracksButIhadnotmuchfaiththatwecoulddistinguishhistrackssinceothershadpassedoverthecarrywithinafewdaysWeturnedoffattherightplacebutweresoonconfusedbynumerouslogging-pathscomingintotheonewewereonbywhichlumberershadbeentopickout those pines which I have mentioned However we kept what weconsidered themain path though itwas awinding one and in this at longintervals we distinguished a faint trace of a footstep This thoughcomparativelyunwornwasat firstabetterorat leastadrier road than theregularcarrywhichwehadleftItledthroughanarbor-vitaeligwildernessofthegrimmestcharacterThegreatfallenandrottingtreeshadbeencutthroughandrolled aside and their huge trunks abutted on the path on each side whileothers still lay across it two or three feet high It was impossible for us todiscerntheIndianstrailintheelasticmosswhichlikeathickcarpetcovered

everyrockandfallentreeaswellastheearthNeverthelessIdidoccasionallydetect the trackofamanandIgavemyselfsomecredit for it Icarriedmywholeloadatonceaheavyknapsackandalargeindia-rubberbagcontainingourbreadandablanketswungonapaddleinallaboutsixtypoundsbutmycompanionpreferredtomaketwojourneysbyshortstageswhileIwaitedforhimWecouldnot be sure thatwewerenot depositingour loads each timefartherofffromthetruepathAsIsatwaitingformycompanionhewouldseemtobegonealongtimeandIhadampleopportunitytomakeobservationsontheforestInowfirstbegantobeseriouslymolestedbytheblackflyaverysmallbutperfectlyformedflyofthatcoloraboutonetenthofaninchlongwhichIfirstfeltandthensawinswarmsaboutmeasIsatbyawiderandmorethanusuallydoubtfulforkinthisdark forestpathThehunters tell bloody stories about themmdashhow theysettleinaringaboutyourneckbeforeyouknowitandarewipedoffingreatnumberswithyourbloodButrememberingthatIhadawashinmyknapsackpreparedbyathoughtfulhandinBangorImadehastetoapplyittomyfaceand hands andwas glad to find it effectual as long as itwas fresh or fortwentyminutesnotonlyagainstblackfliesbutall theinsects thatmolestedusTheywouldnotalightonthepartthusdefendedItwascomposedofsweetoilandoilofturpentinewithalittleoilofspearmintandcamphorHoweverI finally concluded that the remedy was worse than the disease It was sodisagreeableandinconvenienttohaveyourfaceandhandscoveredwithsuchamixtureThree large slate-colored birds of the jay genus (Garrulus Canadensis) theCanadajaymoose-birdmeat-birdorwhatnotcameflittingsilentlyandbydegreestowardmeandhoppeddownthelimbsinquisitivelytowithinsevenor eight feet They were more clumsy and not nearly so handsome as thebluejay Fish hawks from the lake uttered their sharp whistling notes lowoverthetopoftheforestnearmeasiftheywereanxiousaboutanestthereAfterIhadsattheresometimeInoticedatthisforkinthepathatreewhichhadbeenblazedandthelettersChambLwrittenonitwithredchalkThisIknewtomeanChamberlainLakeSoIconcludedthatonthewholewewereontherightcoursethoughaswehadcomenearlytwomilesandsawnosignsofMudPondIdidharborthesuspicionthatwemightbeonadirectcoursetoChamberlainLakeleavingoutMudPondThisIfoundbymymapwouldbeaboutfivemilesnortheasterlyandIthentookthebearingbymycompassMycompanionhavingreturnedwithhisbagandalsodefendedhisfaceandhandswith the insect-washweset forwardagainThewalkingrapidlygrewworse and the path more indistinct and at length after passing through apatch of Calla palustris still abundantly in bloomwe found ourselves in amore open and regular swamp made less passable than ordinary by the

unusualwetnessoftheseasonWesankafootdeepinwaterandmudateverystep and sometimes up to our knees and the trail was almost obliteratedbeingnomorethanthatamusquashleavesinsimilarplaceswhenhepartsthefloatingsedge In fact itprobablywasamusquash trail in someplacesWeconcluded that ifMudPondwasasmuddyas theapproach to itwaswet itcertainlydeserveditsnameItwouldhavebeenamusingtobeholdthedoggedanddeliberatepaceatwhichweenteredthatswampwithoutinterchangingawordasifdeterminedtogothroughitthoughitshouldcomeuptoournecksHaving penetrated a considerable distance into this and found a tussock onwhich we could deposit our loads though there was no place to sit mycompanionwentbackfortherestofhispackIhadthoughttoobserveonthiscarrywhenwecrossedthedividinglinebetweenthePenobscotandStJohnbutasmyfeethadhardlybeenoutofwaterthewholedistanceanditwasalllevel and stagnant I began to despair of finding it I remembered hearing agood deal about the highlands dividing the waters of the Penobscot fromthoseoftheStJohnaswellastheStLawrenceatthetimeofthenortheastboundarydisputeandIobservedbymymap that the lineclaimedbyGreatBritain as the boundary prior to 1842 passed betweenUmbazookskus LakeandMudPondsothatwehadeithercrossedorwerethenonitThesethenaccordingtoherinterpretationofthetreatyof83werethehighlandswhichdivide those rivers that empty themselves into the St Lawrence from thosewhichfallintotheAtlanticOceanTrulyaninterestingspottostandonmdashifthat were itmdashthough you could not sit down there I thought that if thecommissioners themselves and theKingofHollandwith them had spent afewdaysherewiththeirpacksupontheirbackslookingforthathighlandtheywouldhavehadaninterestingtimeandperhapsitwouldhavemodifiedtheirviewsofthequestionsomewhatTheKingofHollandwouldhavebeeninhiselementSuchweremymeditationswhilemycompanionwasgonebackforhisbagItwasacedarswamp throughwhichthepeculiarnoteof thewhite-throatedsparrowrangloudandclearTheregrewtheside-saddleflowerLabradorteaKalmia glauca andwhatwas new tome the low birch (Betula pumila) alittleround-leafedshrubtwoorthreefeethighonlyWethoughttonamethisswampafterthelatterAfteralongwhilemycompanioncamebackandtheIndianwithhimWehadtaken thewrong road and the Indian had lost usHe had verywisely goneback to the Canadians camp and asked him which way we had probablygonesincehecouldbetterunderstandthewaysofwhitemenandhetoldhimcorrectlythatwehadundoubtedlytakenthesupplyroadtoChamberlainLake(slendersuppliestheywouldgetoversucharoadatthisseason)TheIndianwasgreatlysurprisedthatweshouldhavetakenwhathecalledatow(ietote or toting or supply) road instead of a carry pathmdashthat we had not

followedhistracksmdashsaiditwasstrangeandevidentlythoughtlittleofourwoodcraftHavingheldaconsultationandeatenamouthfulofbreadweconcludedthatitwouldperhapsbenearer forus twonowtokeepon toChamberlainLakeomittingMudPondthantogobackandstartanewforthelastplacethoughtheIndianhadneverbeenthroughthiswayandknewnothingaboutitInthemeanwhilehewouldgobackandfinishcarryingoverhiscanoeandbundletoMudPondcrossthatandgodownitsoutletandupChamberlainLakeandtrusttomeetustherebeforenightItwasnowalittleafternoonHesupposedthat the water in which we stood had flowed back fromMud Pond whichcouldnotbefaroffeastwardbutwasunapproachablethroughthedensecedarswampKeeping on we were ere long agreeably disappointed by reaching firmerground andwe crossed a ridgewhere the pathwasmore distinct but therewasneveranyoutlookovertheforestWhiledescendingthelastIsawmanyspecimens of the great round-leaved orchis of large size one which ImeasuredhadleavesasusualflatonthegroundnineandahalfincheslongandninewideandwastwofeethighThedarkdampwildernessisfavorableto some of these orchidaceous plants though they are too delicate forcultivationIalsosawtheswampgooseberry(Rideslacustre)withgreenfruitandinallthelowgroundwhereitwasnottoowettheRubustriflorusinfruitAtoneplaceIheardaveryclearandpiercingnotefromasmallhawklikeasingle note from a white-throated sparrow only very much louder as hedashed through the tree-tops over my head I wondered that he allowedhimself to be disturbed by our presence since it seemed as if he could noteasily findhisnest againhimself in thatwildernessWealso sawandheardseveraltimestheredsquirrelandoftenasbeforeobservedthebluishscalesofthefirconeswhichithadleftonarockorfallentreeThisaccordingtotheIndian is the only squirrel found in thosewoods except a very few stripedonesItmusthaveasolitarytimeinthatdarkevergreenforestwherethereissolittlelifeseventy-fivemilesfromaroadaswehadcomeIwonderedhowhecouldcallanyparticulartreetherehishomeandyethewouldrunupthestemofoneoutof themyriadsas if itwereanoldroad tohimHowcanahawkeverfindhimthereIfanciedthathemustbegladtoseeusthoughhedid seem to chide us One of those sombre fir and spruce woods is notcompleteunlessyouhear fromout itscavernousmossyand twiggyrecesseshisfinealarummdashhissprucevoiceliketheworkingofthesapthroughsomecrack ina treemdashtheworkingof thesprucebeerSuchan impertinent fellowwouldoccasionallytrytoalarmthewoodaboutmeOhsaidIIamwellacquaintedwithyourfamilyIknowyourcousinsinConcordverywellGuessthemails irregular in theseparts andyoud like tohear from emButmyovertureswerevainforhewouldwithdrawbyhisaerialturnpikesintoamore

distantcedar-topandspringhisrattleagainWethenenteredanotherswampatanecessarilyslowpacewherethewalkingwasworsethanevernotonlyonaccountof thewaterbut thefallentimberwhich often obliterated the indistinct trail entirely The fallen treeswere sonumerousthatforlongdistancestheroutewasthroughasuccessionofsmallyardswhereweclimbedover fencesashighasourheadsdown intowateroftenuptoourkneesandthenoveranotherfenceintoasecondyardandsoonandgoingback forhisbagmycompaniononce losthiswayandcamebackwithoutitInmanyplacesthecanoewouldhaverunifithadnotbeenforthefallentimberAgainitwouldbemoreopenbutequallywet toowetfortrees to grow and no place to sit down It was a mossy swamp which itrequired the long legs of amoose to traverse and it is very likely that wescaredsomeoftheminourtransitthoughwesawnoneItwasreadytoechothegrowlofabearthehowlofawolforthescreamofapantherbutwhenyougetfairlyintothemiddleofoneofthesegrimforestsyouaresurprisedtofindthatthelargerinhabitantsarenotathomecommonlybuthaveleftonlyapuny red squirrel to bark at you Generally speaking a howlingwildernessdoesnothowlitistheimaginationofthetravelerthatdoesthehowlingIdidhoweverseeonedeadporcupineperhapshehadsuccumbedtothedifficultiesof the way These bristly fellows are a very suitable small fruit of suchunkemptwildernessesMakingalogging-roadintheMainewoodsiscalledswampingitandtheywho do thework are called swampers I now perceived the fitness of thetermThiswasthemostperfectlyswampedofalltheroadsIeversawNaturemusthavecooperatedwitharthereHowever Isuppose theywould tellyouthatthisnametookitsoriginfromthefactthatthechiefworkofroadmakersinthosewoodsistomaketheswampspassableWecametoastreamwherethe bridgewhich had beenmade of logs tied togetherwith cedar bark hadbeenbrokenupandwegotoveraswecouldThisprobablyemptiedintoMudPondandperhapstheIndianmighthavecomeupitandtakenusinthereifhehadknownitSuchasitwasthisruinedbridgewasthechiefevidencethatwewereonapathofanykindWe then crossed another low rising ground and Iwhowore shoes had anopportunity towringoutmystockingsbutmycompanionwhousedbootshadfoundthatthiswasnotasafeexperimentforhimforhemightnotbeabletogethiswetbootsonagainHewentoverthewholegroundorwaterthreetimes for which reason our progress was very slow beside that the watersoftened our feet and to some extent unfitted them for walking As I satwaiting forhim itwouldnaturally seemanunaccountable time that hewasgone Therefore as I could see through thewoods that the sunwas gettinglowand itwasuncertainhowfar the lakemightbeeven ifwewereon the

right course and in what part of the world we should find ourselves atnightfall I proposed that I should push through with what speed I couldleavingboughstomarkmypathandfindthelakeandtheIndianifpossiblebeforenightandsendthelatterbacktocarrymycompanionsbagHavinggoneaboutamileandgotintolowgroundagainIheardanoiselikethenoteof anowlwhich I soondiscovered tobemadeby the Indian andansweringhimwesooncametogetherHehadreachedthelakeaftercrossingMudPondandrunningsomerapidsbelowitandhadcomeupaboutamileand a half on our path If he had not come back to meet us we probablyshould not have found him that night for the path branched once or twicebefore reaching this particular part of the lake So he went back for mycompanion and his bag while I kept on Having waded through anotherstreamwherethebridgeoflogshadbeenbrokenupandhalffloatedawaymdashandthiswasnotaltogetherworsethanourordinarywalkingsinceitwaslessmuddymdashwecontinuedon throughalternatemudandwater to the shoreofApmoojenegamook Lake which we reached in season for a late supperinsteadofdiningthereaswehadexpectedhavinggonewithoutourdinnerItwasat least fivemilesby thewaywehadcomeandasmycompanionhadgoneovermostofit threetimeshehadwalkedfulladozenmilesbadasitwasInthewinterwhenthewaterisfrozenandthesnowisfourfeetdeepitisnodoubtatolerablepathtoafootmanAsitwasIwouldnothavemissedthatwalkforagooddealIfyouwantanexactrecipeformakingsucharoadtakeonepartMudPondanddiluteitwithequalpartsofUmbazookskusandApmoojenegamookthensendafamilyofmusquashthroughtolocateitlookafter thegradesandculvertsandfinish it to theirmindsandletahurricanefollowtodothefencingWe had come out on a point extending into Apmoojenegamook orChamberlainLakewestoftheoutletofMudPondwheretherewasabroadgravellyandrockyshoreencumberedwithbleachedlogsandtreesWewererejoicedtoseesuchdrythingsinthatpartoftheworldButatfirstwedidnotattendtodrynesssomuchastomudandwetnessWeallthreewalkedintothelakeuptoourmiddletowashourclothesThiswasanothernoble lakecalled twelvemiles longeastandwest ifyouaddTelosLakewhichsincethedamwasbuilthasbeenconnectedwithitbydeadwateritwillbetwentyanditisapparentlyfromamileandahalftotwomileswideWewereaboutmidwayitslengthonthesouthsideWecouldseetheonlyclearing in theseparts called theChamberlainFarmwith twoorthreelogbuildingsclosetogetherontheoppositeshoresometwoandahalfmilesdistantThesmokeofourfireontheshorebroughtovertwomeninacanoefromthefarmthatbeingacommonsignalagreedonwhenonewishestocrossIttookthemabouthalfanhourtocomeoverandtheyhadtheirlabor

for their pains this time Even the English name of the lake had a wildwoodland sound reminding me of that Chamberlain who killed Paugus atLovewellsfightAfterputtingonsuchdryclothesaswehadandhangingtheotherstodryonthepolewhich the Indianarrangedover the fireweateour supper and laydownonthepebblyshorewithourfeettothefirewithoutpitchingourtentmakingathinbedofgrasstocoverthestonesHerefirstIwasmolestedbythelittlemidgecalledtheno-see-em(SimuliumnocivummdashthelatterwordisnottheLatinforno-see-em)especiallyoverthesandat thewaters edge for it is akindof sand-flyYouwouldnotobservethembutfortheirlight-coloredwingsTheyaresaidtogetunderyourclothesandproduceafeverishheatwhichIsupposewaswhatIfeltthatnightOurinsectfoesinthisexcursiontosumthemupwerefirstmosquitoesthechiefonesbutonlytroublesomeatnightorwhenwesatstillonshorebydaysecondblackflies(Simuliummolestum)whichmolestedusmoreorlessonthecarriesbydayasIhavebeforedescribedandsometimesinnarrowerpartsofthestreamHarrismistakeswhenhesaysthattheyarenotseenafterJuneThirdmoose-fliesThebigonesPolissaidwerecalledBososquasis It isastout brown fly much like a horse-fly about eleven sixteenths of an inchlong commonly rusty-coloredbeneathwithunspottedwingsThey canbitesmartlyaccordingtoPolisbutareeasilyavoidedorkilledFourththeno-see-ems above mentioned Of all these the mosquitoes are the only ones thattroubledmeseriouslybutasIwasprovidedwithawashandaveiltheyhavenotmadeanydeepimpressionTheIndianwouldnotuseourwashtoprotecthisfaceandhandsforfearthatitwouldhurthisskinnorhadheanyveilhethereforesufferedfrominsectsnow and throughout this journey more than either of us I think that hesufferedmorethanIdidwhenneitherofuswasprotectedHeregularlytieduphisfaceinhishandkerchiefandburieditinhisblanketandhenowfinallylaydownonthesandbetweenusandthefireforthesakeofthesmokewhichhetriedtomakeenterhisblanketabouthisfaceandforthesamepurposehelithispipeandbreathedthesmokeintohisblanketAswelaythusontheshorewithnothingbetweenusandthestarsIinquiredwhat stars hewas acquaintedwith or had names for Theywere theGreatBearwhichhecalledbythisnametheSevenStarswhichhehadnoEnglishnameforthemorningstarandthenorthstarInthemiddleofthenightasindeedeachtimethatwelayontheshoreofalakeweheardthevoiceoftheloonloudanddistinctfromfaroverthelakeItisaverywildsoundquiteinkeepingwiththeplaceandthecircumstancesofthetravelerandveryunlikethevoiceofabirdIcouldlieawakeforhours

listeningtoititissothrillingWhencampinginsuchawildernessasthisyouarepreparedtohearsoundsfromsomeofitsinhabitantswhichwillgivevoiceto its wildness Some idea of bears wolves or panthers runs in your headnaturallyandwhenthisnoteisfirstheardveryfaroffatmidnightasyouliewithyour ear to thegroundmdashthe forest beingperfectly still aboutyou youtakeitforgrantedthat it is thevoiceofawolforsomeotherwildbeastforonlythelastpartisheardwhenatadistancemdashyouconcludethatitisapackofwolvesbayingthemoonorperchancecanteringafteramooseStrangeasitmayseemthemooingofacowonamountain-sidecomesnearesttomyidea of the voice of a bear and this birds note resembled that It was theunfailingandcharacteristicsoundofthoselakesWewerenotsoluckyastohear wolves howl though that is an occasional serenade Some friends ofminewho twoyearsagowentup theCaucomgomocRiverwereserenadedbywolveswhilemoose-huntingbymoonlight Itwasasuddenburstas ifahundred demons had broke loosemdasha startling sound enoughwhich if anywouldmake your hair stand on end and all was still again It lasted but amoment andyoudhave thought therewere twentyof themwhenprobablytherewereonly twoor threeTheyheard it twiceonly and they said that itgaveexpressiontothewildernesswhichitlackedbeforeIheardofsomemenwhowhileskinningamooselatelyinthosewoodsweredrivenofffromthecarcassbyapackofwolveswhichateitupThisof the loonmdashIdonotmean its laughbut its looningmdashisa long-drawncallasitweresometimessingularlyhumantomyearmdashhoo-hoo-ooooolikethehallooingofamanonaveryhighkeyhaving thrownhisvoice intohisheadIhaveheardasoundexactlylikeitwhenbreathingheavilythroughmyownnostrilshalfawakeattenatnightsuggestingmyaffinitytotheloonasif its languagewerebutadialectofmyownafterallFormerlywhenlyingawake at midnight in those woods I had listened to hear some words orsyllablesoftheirlanguagebutitchancedthatIlistenedinvainuntilIheardthe cry of the loon I have heard it occasionally on the ponds ofmy nativetownbutthereitswildnessisnotenhancedbythesurroundingsceneryIwasawakenedatmidnightbysomeheavylow-flyingbirdprobablyaloonflappingbycloseovermyheadalongtheshoreSoturningtheothersideofmyhalf-cladbodytothefireIsoughtslumberagainTUESDAYJuly28Whenwe awokewe found a heavy dewon our blankets I lay awake veryearly and listened to theclear shrill ah te te te te teof thewhite-throatedsparrow repeated at short intervals without the least variation for half anhourasifitcouldnotenoughexpressitshappinessWhethermycompanionshearditornotIknownotbutitwasakindofmatinstomeandtheeventofthatforenoon

ItwasapleasantsunriseandwehadaviewofthemountainsinthesoutheastKtaadnappearedaboutsoutheastbysouthAdouble-toppedmountainaboutsoutheastbyeastandanotherportionofthesameeast-southeastThelasttheIndiancalledNerlumskeechticookandsaidthatitwasattheheadoftheEastBranchandweshouldpassnearitonourreturnthatwayWe did somemore washing in the lake thismorning andwith our clotheshungaboutonthedeadtreesandrockstheshorelookedlikewashing-dayathomeThe Indian taking thehint borrowed the soap andwalking into thelakewashedhisonlycottonshirtonhispersonthenputonhispantsandletitdryonhimIobservedthatheworeacottonshirtoriginallywhiteagreenishflanneloneover it but no waistcoat flannel drawers and strong linen or duck pantswhich also had been white blue woolen stockings cowhide boots and aKossuth hatHe carried no change of clothing but putting on a stout thickjacketwhichhelaidasideinthecanoeandseizingafull-sizedaxehisgunand ammunition and a blanket which would do for a sail or knapsack ifwanted and strapping on his belt which contained a large sheath-knife hewalked off at once ready to be gone all summer This looked veryindependent a few simple and effective tools and no india-rubber clothingHewasalways the first ready to start in themorning and if it hadnotheldsome of our property would not have been obliged to roll up his blanketInsteadofcarryingalargebundleofhisownextraclothingetchebroughtbackthegreatcoatsofmoosetiedupinhisblanketIfoundthathisoutfitwasthe result of a long experience and in themain hardly to be improved onunlessbywashingandanextrashirtWantingabuttonherehewalkedofftoaplacewheresomeIndianshadrecentlyencampedandsearchedforonebutIbelieveinvainHaving softened our stiffened boots and shoes with the pork fat the usualdispositionofwhatwasleftatbreakfastwecrossedthelakeearlysteeringinadiagonaldirectionnortheasterlyabout fourmiles to theoutletwhichwasnot to be discovered till we were close to it The IndiannameApmoojenegamookmeanslakethatiscrossedbecausetheusualcourseliesacrossandnotalongitThisisthelargestoftheAllegashlakesandwasthe first St John water that we floated on It is shaped in the main likeChesuncookTherearenomountainsorhighhillsverynearitAtBangorwehadbeentoldofatownshipmanymilesfarthernorthwestitwasindicatedtousascontainingthehighestlandthereaboutswherebyclimbingaparticulartreeintheforestwecouldgetageneralideaofthecountryIhavenodoubtthatthelastwasgoodadvicebutwedidnotgothereWedidnotintendtogofardowntheAllegashbutmerelytogetaviewofthegreatlakeswhichareitssource and then return this way to the East Branch of the Penobscot The

waternowbygoodrightsflowednorthwardifitcouldbesaidtoflowatallAfterreachingthemiddleofthelakewefoundthewavesasusualprettyhighand the Indian warnedmy companion who was nodding that hemust notallowhimselftofallasleepinthecanoelestheshouldupsetusaddingthatwhenIndianswanttosleepinacanoetheyliedownstraightonthebottomButinthiscrowdedonethatwasimpossibleHoweverhesaidthathewouldnudgehimifhesawhimnoddingAbeltofdeadtreesstoodallaroundthelakesomefaroutinthewaterwithothers prostrate behind them and they made the shore for the most partalmostinaccessibleThisistheeffectofthedamattheoutletThusthenaturalsandyorrockyshorewithitsgreenfringewasconcealedanddestroyedWecoasted westward along the north side searching for the outlet about onequarterofamiledistantfromthissavage-lookingshoreonwhichthewaveswerebreakingviolentlyknowingthat itmighteasilybeconcealedamid thisrubbishorby theoverlappingof theshore It is remarkablehow little theseimportant gates to a lake are blazoned There is no triumphal arch over themodest inletoroutletbutat someundistinguishedpoint it trickles inoroutthroughtheuninterruptedforestalmostasthroughaspongeWereachedtheoutletinaboutanhourandcarriedoverthedamtherewhichisquiteasolidstructureandaboutonequarterofamilefarther therewasaseconddamThereaderwillperceivethattheresultofthisparticulardammingaboutChamberlainLake is that thehead-watersof theStJohnaremade toflow by Bangor They have thus dammed all the larger lakes raising theirbroad surfaces many feetMoosehead for instance some forty miles longwith its steamer on it thus turning the forces of nature against herself thattheymightfloattheirspoilsoutofthecountryTheyrapidlyrunoutoftheseimmenseforestsallthefinerandmoreaccessiblepinetimberandthenleavethebearstowatchthedecayingdamsnotclearingnorcultivatingthelandnormakingroadsnorbuildinghousesbutleavingitawildernessastheyfounditInmanypartsonlythesedamsremainlikedesertedbeaver-damsThinkhowmuch land theyhave flowedwithoutaskingNatures leaveWhen theStatewishes toendowanacademyoruniversity itgrants it a tractof forest landonesawrepresentsanacademyagangauniversityThewilderness experiences a sudden rise of all her streams and lakes Shefeels ten thousand vermin gnawing at the base of her noblest trees Manycombiningdrag themoff jarringover therootsof thesurvivorsand tumblethemintotheneareststreamtillthefairesthavingfallentheyscamperofftoransacksomenewwildernessandallisstillagainItisaswhenamigratingarmyofmicegirdlesaforestofpinesThechopperfellstreesfromthesamemotivethatthemousegnawsthemmdashtogethislivingYoutellmethathehasamoreinterestingfamilythanthemouseThatisasithappensHespeaksofa

berth of timber a good place for him to get into just as a wormmightWhenthechopperwouldpraiseapinehewillcommonlytellyouthattheonehecutwassobigthatayokeofoxenstoodonitsstumpasifthatwerewhatthepinehadgrownfortobecomethefootstoolofoxenInmymindseyeIcan see these unwieldy tame deer with a yoke binding them together andbrazen-tippedhornsbetrayingtheirservitudetakingtheirstandonthestumpof each giant pine in succession throughout this whole forest and chewingtheircudthereuntilitisnothingbutanox-pastureandrunoutatthatAsifitwere good for the oxen and some terebinthine or other medicinal qualityascendedintotheirnostrilsOristheirelevatedpositionintendedmerelyasasymbolofthefactthatthepastoralcomesnextinordertothesylvanorhunterlifeThe character of the loggers admiration is betrayed by his very mode ofexpressingit Ifhetoldall thatwasinhismindhewouldsay itwassobigthat I cut it down and then a yoke of oxen could stand on its stump Headmires the log thecarcassorcorpsemorethanthe treeWhymydearsirthetreemighthavestoodonitsownstumpandagreatdealmorecomfortablyand firmly than a yokeof oxen can if youhadnot cut it downWhat righthaveyoutocelebratethevirtuesofthemanyoumurderedTheAnglo-AmericancanindeedcutdownandgrubupallthiswavingforestandmakeastumpspeechandvoteforBuchananonitsruinsbuthecannotconverse with the spirit of the tree he fells he cannot read the poetry andmythology which retire as he advances He ignorantly erases mythologicaltablets in order to print his handbills and town-meeting warrants on themBefore he has learned his a b c in the beautiful but mystic lore of thewildernesswhichSpenserandDantehadjustbeguntoreadhecutsitdowncoinsapine-tree shilling (as if to signify thepinesvalue tohim)putsupadeestrictschoolhouseandintroducesWebstersspelling-bookBelowthelastdamtheriverbeingswiftandshallowthoughbroadenoughwetwowalkedabouthalfamiletolightenthecanoeImadeitaruletocarrymyknapsackwhenIwalkedandalsotokeepittiedtoacrossbarwheninthecanoethatitmightbefoundwiththecanoeifweshouldupsetIheardthedog-daylocusthereandafterwardonthecarriesasoundwhichIhad associated only with more open if not settled countries The area forlocustsmustbesmallintheMainewoodsWewerenowfairlyontheAllegashRiverwhichnameourIndiansaidmeanthemlockbarkThesewatersflownorthwardaboutonehundredmilesatfirstvery feebly then southeasterly two hundred and fifty more to the Bay ofFundyAfterperhapstwomilesofriverweenteredHeronLakecalledonthemapPongokwahemscaringupfortyorfiftyyoungshecorwayssheldrakesattheentrancewhichranoverthewaterwithgreatrapidityasusual inalong

lineThiswasthefourthgreatlakelyingnorthwestandsoutheastlikeChesuncookandmostofthelonglakesinthatneighborhoodandjudgingfromthemapitis about tenmiles longWehadentered it on the southwest side and sawadarkmountain northeast over the lake not very far off nor highwhich theIndian saidwas called PeakedMountain and used by explorers to look fortimberfromTherewasalsosomeotherhigh landmoreeasterlyTheshoreswere in the same ragged and unsightly condition encumbered with deadtimberbothfallenandstandingasinthelast lakeowingtothedamontheAllegashbelowSomelowpointsorislandswerealmostdrownedIsawsomethingwhiteamileoffonthewaterwhichturnedouttobeagreatgullonarockinthemiddlewhichtheIndianwouldhavebeengladtokillandeatbut it flewaway longbeforewewerenearandalsoa flockof summerducks thatwereabout therockwith it Iaskinghimaboutheronssince thiswasHeronLakehesaidthathefoundtheblueheronsnestsinthehardwoodtrees I thought that I sawa light-coloredobjectmovealong theoppositeornorthernshorefourorfivemilesdistantHedidnotknowwhat itcouldbeunlessitwereamoosethoughhehadneverseenawhiteonebuthesaidthathecoulddistinguishamooseanywhereonshoreclearacrossthelakeRoundingapointwestoodacrossabayforamileandahalfor twomilestoward a large island three or four miles down the lake We met withephemeraelig(shadfly)midwayaboutamilefromtheshoreandtheyevidentlyflyoverthewholelakeOnMooseheadIhadseenalargedevils-needlehalfamilefromtheshorecomingfromthemiddleofthelakewhereitwasthreeorfourmileswideat least It hadprobablycrossedBut at last of courseyoucometolakessolargethataninsectcannotflyacrossthemandthisperhapswillservetodistinguishalargelakefromasmalloneWelandedonthesoutheastsideoftheislandwhichwasratherelevatedanddenselywoodedwitharockyshoreinseasonforanearlydinnerSomebodyhadcampedtherenotlongbeforeandlefttheframeonwhichtheystretchedamoose-hidewhichourIndiancriticisedseverelythinkingitshowedbutlittlewoodcraftHerewereplentyoftheshellsofcrayfishorfresh-waterlobsterswhichhadbeenwashedashoresuchashavegivenanametosomepondsandstreamsTheyarecommonlyfourorfiveincheslongTheIndianproceededatoncetocutacanoebirchslanteditupagainstanothertreeontheshoretyingitwithawitheandlaydowntosleepinitsshadeWhen we were on the Caucomgomoc he recommended to us a new wayhome theveryonewhichwehad first thoughtofby theSt JohnHeevensaidthatitwaseasierandwouldtakebutlittlemoretimethantheotherbytheEastBranchofthePenobscotthoughverymuchfartherroundandtakingthemapheshowedwhereweshouldbeeachnightforhewasfamiliarwith

therouteAccordingtohiscalculationweshouldreachtheFrenchsettlementsthenextnightafterthisbykeepingnorthwarddowntheAllegashandwhenwegotintothemainStJohnthebankswouldbemoreorlesssettledallthewayasifthatwerearecommendationTherewouldbebutoneortwofallswithshortcarrying-placesandweshouldgodownthestreamveryfastevenahundredmilesadayifthewindallowedandheindicatedwhereweshouldcarryoverintoEelRivertosaveabendbelowWoodstockinNewBrunswickandsointotheSchoodicLakeandthencetotheMattawamkeagItwouldbeaboutthreehundredandsixtymilestoBangorthiswaythoughonlyaboutonehundredandsixtybytheotherbutintheformercaseweshouldexploretheSt John from its source through two thirds of its course as well as theSchoodicLake andMattawamkeagmdashandwewere again tempted to go thatwayIfearedhoweverthatthebanksoftheStJohnweretoomuchsettledWhenIaskedhimwhichcoursewouldtakeusthroughthewildestcountryhesaidtheroutebytheEastBranchPartlyfromthisconsiderationasalsofromits shortness we resolved to adhere to the latter route and perhaps ascendKtaadn on the wayWemade this island the limit of our excursion in thisdirectionWehadnowseenthelargestoftheAllegashlakesThenextdamwasaboutfifteenmilesfarthernorthdowntheAllegashanditwasdeadwatersofarWehadbeentoldinBangorofamanwholivedaloneasortofhermitatthatdamto takecareof itwhospenthis timetossingabulletfromonehandtotheotherforwantofemploymentmdashasifwemightwanttocallonhimThissort of tit-for-tat intercourse between his two hands bandying to and fro aleadensubjectseemstohavebeenhissymbolforsocietyThis island according to themap was about a hundred and tenmiles in astraight linenorth-northwest fromBangor and about ninety-ninemiles east-southeastfromQuebecTherewasanotherislandvisibletowardthenorthendof the lakewith an elevated clearingon it butwe learned afterward that itwasnotinhabitedhadonlybeenusedasapastureforcattlewhichsummeredinthesewoodsthoughourinformantsaidthattherewasahutonthemainlandnear theoutletof thelakeThisunnaturallysmooth-shavensquarishspot inthe midst of the otherwise uninterrupted forest only reminded us howuninhabited the countrywasYouwould sooner expect tomeetwith a bearthananoxinsuchaclearingAtanyrateitmusthavebeenasurprisetothebearswhentheycameacrossitSuchseenfarornearyouknowatoncetobemansworkforNatureneverdoesitInordertoletinthelighttotheearthasonalakeheclearsofftheforestonthehillsidesandplainsandsprinklesfinegrassseedlikeanenchanterandsocarpetstheearthwithafirmswardPolishadevidentlymorecuriosityrespectingthefewsettlersinthosewoodsthan we If nothing was said he took it for granted that we wanted to go

straighttothenextlog-hutHavingobservedthatwecamebytheloghutsatChesuncook and the blind Canadians at the Mud Pond carry withoutstopping to communicate with the inhabitants he took occasion now tosuggestthattheusualwaywaswhenyoucamenearahousetogotoitandtell the inhabitantswhatyouhad seenorheard and then they tellyouwhattheyhadseenbutwelaughedandsaidthatwehadhadenoughofhousesforthepresentandhadcomeherepartlytoavoidthemIn the meanwhile the wind increasing blew down the Indians birch andcreatedsuchaseathatwefoundourselvesprisonersontheislandthenearestshorewhichwas thewesternbeingperhapsamiledistantandwetookthecanoe out to prevent its drifting awayWe did not know but we should becompelled to spend the rest of the day and the night thereAt any rate theIndianwent to sleep again in the shade of his birchmy companion busiedhimselfdryinghisplantsandIrambledalongtheshorewestwardwhichwasquite stony andobstructedwith fallen bleachedordrifted trees for fourorfive rods inwidth I foundgrowingon thisbroad rockyandgravelly shorethe Salix rostrata discolor and lucidaRanunculus recurvatus PotentillaNorvegica Scutellaria laterifloraEupatoriumpurpureumAsterTradescantiMentha Canadensis Epilobium angustifolium (abundant) Lycopus sinuatusSolidago lanceolata Spiraeliga salicifolia Antennaria margaraticea PrunellaRumex Acetosella raspberries wool-grass Onoclea etc The nearest treeswere Betula papyracea and excelsa and Populus tremuloides I give thesenamesbecauseitwasmyfarthestnorthernpointOurIndiansaidthathewasadoctorandcouldtellmesomemedicinaluseforeveryplantIcouldshowhimIimmediatelytriedhimHesaidthattheinnerbarkoftheaspen(Populustremuloides)wasgoodforsoreeyesandsowithvarious other plants proving himself as good as hiswordAccording to hisaccounthehadacquiredsuchknowledgeinhisyouthfromawiseoldIndianwith whom he associated and he lamented that the present generation ofIndianshadlostagreatdealHesaidthatthecaribouwasaverygreatrunnerthattherewasnoneaboutthislakenowthoughthereusedtobemanyandpointingtothebeltofdeadtreescausedbythedamsheaddedNolikumstumpmdashwhenheseesthathescaredPointing southeasterlyover the lakeanddistant forest heobserved MegoOldtowninthreedaysIaskedhowhewouldgetovertheswampsandfallentreesOhsaidheinwinterallcoveredgoanywhereonsnowshoesrightacross lakesWhen I askedhowhewenthe said First I goKtaadnwestsidethenIgoMillinocketthenPamadumcookthenNicketowthenLincolnthen Oldtown or else he went a shorter way by the Piscataquis What awilderness walk for a man to take alone None of your half-mile swamps

noneofyourmile-widewoodsmerelyasontheskirtsofourtownswithouthotelsonlyadarkmountainoralakeforguide-boardandstationovergroundmuchofitimpassableinsummerIt remindedme of PrometheusBoundHerewas traveling of the old heroickindovertheunalteredfaceofnatureFromtheAllegashorHemlockRiverand Pongoquahem Lake across great Apmoojenegamook and leaving theNerlumskeechticookMountain on his left he takes hisway under the bear-haunted slopes of Souneunk and Ktaadn Mountains to Pamadumcook andMillinocketsinlandseas(whereoftengulls-eggsmayincreasehisstore)andsoontotheforksoftheNicketow(niasosebwealoneJosephseeingwhatour folks see) everpushing theboughsof the fir and spruceasidewithhisloadoffurscontendingdayandnightnightanddaywiththeshaggydemonvegetationtravelingthroughthemossygraveyardoftreesOrhecouldgobythat rough toothof theseaKineogreatsourceofarrowsandofspears tothe ancientswhenweapons of stonewere used Seeing and hearingmoosecaribou bears porcupines lynxes wolves and panthers Places where hemight live and die and never hear of theUnited Stateswhichmake such anoise in the worldmdashnever hear of America so called from the name of aEuropeangentlemanThereisalumberersroadcalledtheEagleLakeroadfromtheSebooistotheeast side of this lake It may seem strange that any road through such awildernessshouldbepassableeveninwinterwhenthesnowisthreeorfourfeet deep but at that season wherever lumbering operations are activelycarriedonteamsarecontinuallypassingonthesingletrackanditbecomesassmoothalmostasarailwayIamtoldthatintheAroostookcountrythesledsarerequiredbylawtobeofonewidth(fourfeet)andsleighsmustbealteredtofitthetracksothatonerunnermaygoinonerutandtheotherfollowthehorseYetitisverybadturningoutWehadforsome timeseena thunder-showercomingupfromthewestoverthewoods of the island and heard themuttering of the thunder thoughwewere in doubt whether it would reach us but now the darkness rapidlyincreasingandafreshbreezerustlingtheforestwehastilyputuptheplantswhich we had been drying and with one consent made a rush for the tentmaterialandsetaboutpitchingitAplacewasselectedandstakesandpinscutin the shortest possible time andwewerepinning it down lest it shouldbeblownawaywhenthestormsuddenlyburstoverusAswe layhuddled togetherunder the tentwhich leakedconsiderablyaboutthe sideswith our baggage at our feetwe listened to someof thegrandestthunderwhichIeverheardmdashrapidpealsroundandplumpbangbangbangin succession like artillery from some fortress in the sky and the lightningwasproportionally brilliantThe Indian said Itmust be goodpowderAll

for thebenefit of themoose andus echoing far over the concealed lakes Ithought it must be a place which the thunder loved where the lightningpracticedtokeepitshandinanditwoulddonoharmtoshatterafewpinesWhat had become of the ephemeraelig and devils-needles then Were theyprudentenoughtoseekharborbeforethestormPerhapstheirmotionsmightguidethevoyageurLookingoutIperceivedthattheviolentshowerfallingonthelakehadalmostinstantaneously flattened the wavesmdashthe commander of that fortress hadsmootheditforussomdashanditclearingoffweresolvedtostartimmediatelybeforethewindraisedthemagainGoingoutsideIsaidthatIsawcloudsstillinthesouthwestandheardthunderthereTheIndianasked if the thunderwentlound(round)saying that if itdid we should have more rain I thought that it did We embarkednevertheless andpaddled rapidlyback toward thedamsThewhite-throatedsparrowsontheshorewereaboutsingingAhte-e-ete-e-eteorelseahte-e-ete-e-ete-e-ete-e-eAttheoutletofChamberlainLakewewereovertakenbyanothergustyrain-stormwhichcompelledus to takeshelter theIndianunderhiscanoeonthebankandweranundertheedgeofthedamHoweverweweremorescaredthanwetFrommycovertIcouldseetheIndianpeepingoutfrombeneathhiscanoetoseewhathadbecomeoftherainWhenwehadtakenourrespectiveplaces thus once or twice the rain not coming down in earnest wecommencedramblingabout theneighborhood for thewindhadby this timeraised suchwaveson the lake thatwecouldnot stir andwe feared thatweshouldbeobligedtocampthereWegotanearlysupperonthedamandtriedforfishtherewhilewaitingforthetumulttosubsideThefisheswerenotonlyfewbutsmallandworthlessandtheIndiandeclaredthattherewerenogoodfishesintheStJohnswatersthatwemustwaittillwegottothePenobscotwatersAtlengthjustbeforesunsetwesetoutagainItwasawildeveningwhenwecoastedupthenorthsideofthisApmoojenegamookLakeOnethunder-stormwas justoverand thewaveswhich ithad raisedstill runningwithviolenceandanotherstormwasnowseencomingupinthesouthwestfaroverthelakebutitmightbeworseinthemorningandwewishedtogetasfaraspossibleonourwayup the lakewhilewemight Itblowedhardagainst thenorthernshoreaboutaneighthofamiledistantonourleftandtherewasjustasmuchsea as our shallowcanoewouldbearwithout our takingunusual careThatwhichwekeptoffandtowardwhichthewavesweredrivingwasasdrearyandharborlessashoreasyoucanconceiveForhalfadozenrodsinwidthitwasaperfectmazeofsubmergedtreesalldeadandbareandbleachingsomestandinghalftheiroriginalheightothersprostrateandcriss-acrossaboveor

beneath the surface andmingledwith themwere loose trees and limbs andstumpsbeating about Imagine thewharvesof the largest city in theworlddecayedandtheearthandplankingwashedawayleavingthespilesstandingin looseorderbutoftenof twice theordinaryheight andmingledwithandbeating against them the wreck of ten thousand navies all their spars andtimbers while there rises from the waters edge the densest and grimmestwildernessreadytosupplymorematerialwhentheformerfailsandyoumaygetafaintideaofthatcoastWecouldnothavelandedifwewouldwithoutthegreatestdangerofbeingswampedsoblowasitmightwemustdependoncoasting by it It was twilight too and that stormy cloud was advancingrapidlyinourrearItwasapleasantexcitementyetweweregladtoreachatlengthinthedusktheclearedshoreoftheChamberlainFarmWelandedonalowandthinlywoodedpointthereandwhilemycompanionswerepitchingthetentIranuptothehousetogetsomesugaroursixpoundsbeing gonemdashit was nowonder theywere for Polis had a sweet tooth HewouldfirstfillhisdippernearlyathirdfullofsugarandthenaddthecoffeetoitHerewasaclearingextendingback from the lake toahilltopwithsomedark-colored log buildings and a storehouse in it and half a dozen menstandinginfrontoftheprincipalhutgreedyfornewsAmongthemwasthemanwho tended the dam on theAllegash and tossed the bulletHe havingchargeof thedams and learning thatweweregoing toWebsterStream thenextdaytoldmethatsomeoftheirmenwhowerehayingatTelosLakehadshutthedamatthecanalthereinordertocatchtroutandifwewantedmorewatertotakeusthroughthecanalwemightraisethegateforhewouldliketohaveitraisedTheChamberlainFarmisnodoubtacheerfulopeninginthewoods but such was the lateness of the hour that it has left but a duskyimpressiononmymindAsIhavesaidtheinfluxoflightmerelyiscivilizingyetIfanciedthattheywalkedaboutonSundaysintheirclearingsomewhatasinaprison-yardThey were unwilling to spare more than four pounds of brown sugarmdashunlockingthestorehousetogetitmdashsincetheyonlykeptalittleforsuchcasesas thisand theycharged twentycentsapound for itwhichcertainly itwasworthtogetitupthereWhen I returned to the shore itwasquitedarkbutwehada rousing fire towarmanddryusbyandasnugapartmentbehinditTheIndianwentuptothehouse to inquireafterabrotherwhohadbeenabsenthuntingayearor twoandwhile another showerwasbeginning I gropedabout cutting spruceandarbor-vitaelig twigs for a bed I preferred the arbor-vitaelig on account of itsfragranceandspreaditparticularlythickabouttheshouldersItisremarkablewithwhatpuresatisfactionthetravelerinthesewoodswillreachhiscamping-groundontheeveofatempestuousnightlikethisasifhehadgottohisinn

androllinghimselfinhisblanketstretchhimselfonhissix-feet-by-twobedofdrippingfirtwigswithathinsheetofcottonforroofsnugasameadow-mouseinitsnestInvariablyourbestnightswerethosewhenitrainedforthenwewerenottroubledwithmosquitoesYousooncometodisregardrainonsuchexcursionsatleastinthesummeritissoeasytodryyourselfsupposingadrychangeofclothingisnottobehadYoucanmuchsoonerdryyoubysucha fireasyoucanmake in thewoodsthaninanybodyskitchenthefireplaceissomuchlargerandwoodsomuchmore abundant A shed-shaped tent will catch and reflect the heat like aYankeebakerandyoumaybedryingwhileyouaresleepingSomewhohaveleakyroofsinthetownsmayhavebeenkeptawakebutweweresoonlulledasleepbyasteadysoakingrainwhichlastedallnightTo-nighttherainnotcomingatoncewithviolencethetwigsweresoondriedbythereflectedheatWEDNESDAYJuly29WhenweawokeithaddonerainingthoughitwasstillcloudyThefirewasputoutandtheIndiansbootswhichstoodundertheeavesofthetentwerehalffullofwaterHewasmuchmoreimprovidentinsuchrespectsthaneitherofusandhehadtothankusforkeepinghispowderdryWedecidedtocrossthelakeatoncebeforebreakfastorwhilewecouldandbeforestartingItookthebearingoftheshorewhichwewishedtostrikeSSEaboutthreemilesdistant lest a sudden misty rain should conceal it when we were midwayThoughthebayinwhichwewerewasperfectlyquietandsmoothwefoundthelakealreadywideawakeoutsidebutnotdangerouslyorunpleasantlysoneverthelesswhenyougetoutononeofthoselakesinacanoelikethisyoudonot forget thatyouarecompletelyat themercyof thewindanda ficklepower it isTheplayfulwavesmayat any timebecome too rude foryou intheirsportandplayrightonoveryouWesawafewshecorwaysandafishhawk thus early and aftermuch steady paddling and dancing over the darkwavesofApmoojenegamookwefoundourselvesintheneighborhoodofthesouthernlandheardthewavesbreakingonitandturnedourthoughtswhollyto that side After coasting eastward along this shore a mile or two webreakfastedonarockypointthefirstconvenientplacethatofferedItwaswell enough thatwe crossed thus early for thewaves now ran quitehighandweshouldhavebeenobligedtogoroundsomewhatbutbeyondthispointwehadcomparativelysmoothwaterYoucancommonlygoalongonesideortheotherofalakewhenyoucannotcrossitTheIndianwas lookingat thehard-woodridgesfromtime to timeandsaidthat he would like to buy a few hundred acres somewhere about this lakeaskingouradviceItwastobuyasnearthecrossing-placeaspossible

MycompanionandIhavingaminutesdiscussiononsomepointofancienthistorywereamusedbytheattitudewhichtheIndianwhocouldnottellwhatweweretalkingaboutassumedHeconstitutedhimselfumpireandjudgingby our air and gesture he very seriously remarked from time to time youbeatorhebeatLeavingaspaciousbayanortheasterlyprolongationofChamberlainLakeonourleftweenteredthroughashortstrait intoasmall lakeacoupleofmilesovercalledon themapTelasinisbut theIndianhadnodistinctnamefor itand thence into Telos Lake which he calledPaytaywecomgomoc or Burnt-Ground Lake This curved round toward the northeast andmay have beenthreeorfourmileslongaswepaddledHehadnotbeenheresince1825HedidnotknowwhatTelosmeantthoughtitwasnotIndianHeusedthewordspokelogan(foraninletintheshorewhichlednowhere)andwhenIaskeditsmeaningsaidthattherewasnoIndianinemTherewasaclearingwithahouseandbarnonthesouthwestshoretemporarilyoccupiedbysomemenwhoweregettingthehayaswehadbeentoldalsoaclearingforapastureonahillonthewestsideofthelakeWe landedona rockypointon thenortheast side to lookat someredpines(Pinus resinosa) the first we had noticed and get some cones for our fewwhichgrowinConcorddonotbearanyTheoutletfromthelakeintotheEastBranchofthePenobscotisanartificialone and it was not very apparent where it was exactly but the lake rancurvingfarupnortheasterlyintotwonarrowvalleysorravinesasifithadforalongtimebeengropingitswaytowardthePenobscotwatersorrememberedwhen it anciently flowed therebyobservingwhere thehorizonwas lowestandfollowingthelongestoftheseweatlengthreachedthedamhavingcomeaboutadozenmilesfromthelastcampSomebodyhadleftalinesetfortroutandthejackknifewithwhichthebaithadbeencutonthedambesideitanevidence thatmanwas near and on a deserted log close by a loaf of breadbakedinaYankeebakerTheseprovedthepropertyofasolitaryhunterwhomwesoonmetandcanoeandgunandtrapswerenotfaroffHetoldusthatitwas twentymiles fartheronour route to the footofGrandLakewhereyoucouldcatchasmany troutasyouwantedand that the firsthousebelow thefootofthelakeontheEastBranchwasHuntsaboutforty-fivemilesfartherthough therewasoneaboutamileandahalfupTroutStreamsomefifteenmilesaheadbutitwasratherablindroutetoitItturnedoutthatthoughthestreamwasinourfavorwedidnotreachthenexthousetillthemorningofthethirdday after thisThenearest permanently inhabitedhousebehinduswasnowadozenmilesdistantsothattheintervalbetweenthetwonearesthousesonourroutewasaboutsixtymilesThishunterwhowasaquitesmallsunburntmanhavingalreadycarriedhis

canoeoverandbakedhisloafhadnothingsointerestingandpressingtodoastoobserveourtransitHehadbeenoutamonthormorealoneHowmuchmorewildandadventuroushislifethanthatofthehunterinConcordwoodswho gets back to his house and the mill-dam every night Yet they in thetowns who have wild oats to sow commonly sow them on cultivated andcomparatively exhausted ground And as for the rowdy world in the largecities so little enterprisehas it that it never adventures in thisdirectionbutlike vermin clubs together in alleys and drinking-saloons its highestaccomplishmentperchance to runbesidea fire-engineand throwbrickbatsBut the former is comparatively an independent and successfulmangettinghislivinginawaythathelikeswithoutdisturbinghishumanneighborsHowmuchmorerespectablealsoisthelifeofthesolitarypioneerorsettlerintheseoranywoodsmdashhavingrealdifficultiesnotofhisowncreationdrawinghissubsistencedirectly fromnaturemdashthan thatof thehelplessmultitudes in thetownswhodependongratifyingtheextremelyartificialwantsofsocietyandarethrownoutofemploymentbyhardtimesHere for the first time we found the raspberries really plentymdashthat is onpassing theheight of landbetween theAllegash and theEastBranchof thePenobscotthesamewastrueoftheblueberriesTelosLaketheheadoftheStJohnonthissideandWebsterPondtheheadoftheEastBranchofthePenobscotareonlyaboutamileapartandtheyareconnectedby a ravine inwhichbut little diggingwas required tomake thewater of the former which is the highest flow into the latter This canalwhichissomethinglessthanamilelongandaboutfourrodswidewasmadeafewyearsbeforemyfirstvisittoMaineSincethenthelumberoftheupperAllegash and its lakes has been run down the Penobscot that is up theAllegash which here consists principally of a chain of large and stagnantlakes whose thoroughfares or river-links have been made nearly equallystagnantbydammingandthendownthePenobscotTherushofthewaterhasproducedsuchchanges in thecanal that ithasnowtheappearanceofaveryrapidmountain stream flowing througha ravine andyouwouldnot suspectthatanydigginghadbeenrequired topersuade thewatersof theSt John toflow into thePenobscothere Itwassowinding thatonecouldseebut littlewaydownItisstatedbySpringerinhisForestLifethatthecauseofthiscanalbeingdugwasthisaccordingtothetreatyof1842withGreatBritainitwasagreedthatallthetimberrundowntheStJohnwhichrisesinMainewhenwithintheProvinceofNewBrunswickshallbedealtwithasifitweretheproduceofthesaidProvincewhichwasthoughtbyoursidetomeanthatitshouldbefreefromtaxationImmediatelytheProvincewishingtogetsomethingoutoftheYankeesleviedadutyonallthetimberthatpasseddowntheStJohnbut

to satisfy its own subjects made a correspondingdiscount on the stumpagecharged thosehauling timber fromthecrown landsThe resultwas that theYankeesmadetheStJohnruntheotherwayordownthePenobscotsothattheProvincelostbothitsdutyanditswaterwhiletheYankeesbeinggreatlyenrichedhadreasontothankitforthesuggestionItiswonderfulhowwellwateredthiscountryisAsyoupaddleacrossalakebays will be pointed out to you by following up which and perhaps thetributarystreamwhichemptiesinyoumayafterashortportageorpossiblyat some seasons none at all get into another riverwhich empties far awayfromtheoneyouareonGenerallyyoumaygoinanydirectioninacanoebymakingfrequentbutnotverylongportagesYouareonlyrealizingoncemorewhatallnaturedistinctlyremembersherefornodoubtthewatersflowedthusinaformergeologicalperiodandinsteadofbeingalakecountry itwasanarchipelago It seems as if the more youthful and impressible streams canhardly resist the numerous invitations and temptations to leave their nativebedsandrundowntheirneighborschannelsYourcarriesareoftenoverhalf-submergedgroundon thedrychannelsofaformerperiod IncarryingfromonerivertoanotherIdidnotgooversuchhighandrockygroundasingoingabout thefallsof thesameriverFor in theformercaseIwasonce lost inaswampasIhaverelatedandagainfoundanartificialcanalwhichappearedtobenaturalI remember once dreaming of pushing a canoe up the rivers ofMaine andthatwhenIhadgotsohighthatthechannelsweredryIkeptonthroughtheravines and gorges nearly aswell as before by pushing a little harder andnowitseemedtomethatmydreamwaspartiallyrealizedWhereverthereisachannelforwaterthereisaroadforthecanoeThepilotofthesteamerwhichranfromOldtownupthePenobscotin1854toldmethatshe drew only fourteen inches and would run easily in two feet of waterthoughtheydidnotliketoItissaidthatsomeWesternsteamerscanrunonaheavy dewwhencewe can imaginewhat a canoemay doMontresorwhowassentfromQuebecby theEnglishabout1760toexplore theroute to theKennebecoverwhichArnoldafterwardpassedsupplied thePenobscotnearitssourcewithwaterbyopeningthebeaver-damsandhesaysThisisoftendone He afterward states that the Governor of Canada had forbidden tomolestthebeaverabouttheoutletoftheKennebecfromMooseheadLakeonaccount of the service which their dams did by raising the water fornavigationThiscanalsocalledwasaconsiderableandextremelyrapidandrockyriverTheIndiandecidedthattherewaswaterenoughinitwithoutraisingthedamwhichwouldonlymakeitmoreviolentandthathewouldrundownitalonewhilewecarried thegreater part of thebaggageOurprovisionbeing about

halfconsumedtherewasthelessleftinthecanoeWehadthrownawaythepork-keg and wrapt its contents in birch bark which is the unequaledwrapping-paperofthewoodsFollowing amoist trail through the forest we reached the head ofWebsterPondabout thesametimewith theIndiannotwithstandingthevelocitywithwhichhemovedourroutebeingthemostdirectTheIndiannameofWebsterStreamofwhichthispondisthesourceisaccordingtohimMadunkchunki eHeight ofLand and of the pondMadunkchunk-gamooc orHeight ofLandPondThelatterwastwoorthreemileslongWepassednearapineonitsshorewhichhadbeensplinteredbylightningperhapsthedaybeforeThiswasthefirstproperEastBranchPenobscotwaterthatwecametoAt the outlet ofWebster Lake was another dam at which we stopped andpickedraspberrieswhiletheIndianwentdownthestreamahalf-milethroughtheforest toseewhathehadgot tocontendwithTherewasadeserted logcamphere apparentlyused thepreviouswinterwith its hovelorbarn forcattle In the hut was a large fir twig bed raised two feet from the flooroccupyingalargepartofthesingleapartmentalongnarrowtableagainstthewallwithastoutlogbenchbeforeitandabovethetableasmallwindowtheonlyonetherewaswhichadmittedafeeblelightItwasasimpleandstrongfort erected against the cold and suggestedwhat valiant trencherwork hadbeendonethereIdiscoveredoneortwocuriouswoodentrapswhichhadnotbeenusedforalongtimeinthewoodsnearbyTheprincipalpartconsistedofalongandslenderpoleWegot our dinner on the shore on the upper side of the damAsweweresitting by our fire concealed by the earth bank of the dam a long line ofsheldrakehalf-growncamewaddlingover it from thewaterbelowpassingwithin about a rod of us so thatwe could almost have caught them in ourhandsTheywereveryabundantonallthestreamsandlakeswhichwevisitedandeverytwoorthreehourstheywouldrushawayinalongstringoverthewaterbeforeustwentytofiftyofthematoncerarelyeverflyingbutrunningwith great rapidity up or down the stream even in the midst of the mostviolentrapidsandapparentlyasfastupasdownorelsecrossingdiagonallytheoldasitappearedbehindanddrivingthemandflyingtothefrontfromtime to time as if to direct themWe also saw many small black dipperswhichbehavedinasimilarmannerandonceortwiceafewblackducksAnIndianatOldtownhadtoldusthatweshouldbeobligedtocarrytenmilesbetweenTelosLakeon theStJohnandSecondLakeon theEastBranchofthePenobscot but the lumbererswhomwemet assuredus that therewouldnotbemorethanamileofcarryItturnedoutthattheIndianwhohadlatelybeenoverthisroutewasnearestrightasfaraswewereconcernedHoweverifoneofuscouldhaveassistedtheIndianinmanagingthecanoeintherapids

wemight have run the greater part of the way but as he was alone in themanagementofthecanoeinsuchplaceswewereobligedtowalkthegreaterpartIdidnotfeelquitereadytotrysuchanexperimentonWebsterStreamwhich has so bad a reputation According to my observation a batteauproperlymanned shoots rapids as amatterof coursewhicha single IndianwithacanoecarriesroundMy companion and I carried a good part of the baggage on our shoulderswhiletheIndiantookthatwhichwouldbeleast injuredbywet inthecanoeWedidnotknowwhenweshouldseehimagainforhehadnotbeenthiswaysincethecanalwascutnorformorethanthirtyyearsHeagreedtostopwhenhegottosmoothwatercomeupandfindourpathifhecouldandhallooforusandafterwaitingareasonabletimegoonandtryagainmdashandweweretolookoutinlikemannerforhimHecommencedbyrunningthroughthesluicewayandoverthedamasusualstandingupinhistossingcanoeandwassoonoutofsightbehindapointinawildgorgeThisWebsterStream iswell known to lumbermen as a difficultone It is exceedingly rapid and rocky and also shallow and can hardly beconsiderednavigableunlessthatmaymeanthatwhatislaunchedinitissuretobecarriedswiftlydownitthoughitmaybedashedtopiecesbythewayItis somewhat like navigating a thunder-spoutWith commonly an irresistibleforceurgingyouonyouhavegot tochooseyourowncourseeachmomentbetween the rocks and shallows and to get into itmoving forward alwayswiththeutmostpossiblemoderationandoftenholdingonifyoucanthatyoumayinspecttherapidsbeforeyouBy the Indians direction we took an old path on the south side whichappearedtokeepdownthestreamthoughataconsiderabledistancefromitcuttingoffbendsperhapstoSecondLakehavingfirsttakenthecoursefromthemapwith a compasswhichwas northeasterly for safety It was awildwood-pathwithafewtracksofoxenwhichhadbeendrivenoveritprobablyto someold campclearing forpasturagemingledwith the tracksofmoosewhichhadlatelyuseditWekeptonsteadilyforaboutanhourwithoutputtingdownourpacksoccasionallywindingaroundorclimbingoverafallen treefor themostpart faroutof sight andhearingof the river till afterwalkingaboutthreemilesweweregladtofindthatthepathcametotheriveragainatanoldcampgroundwheretherewasasmallopeningintheforestatwhichwepausedSwiftlyastheshallowandrockyriverranhereacontinuousrapidwithdancingwavesIsawasIsatontheshorea longstringofsheldrakeswhichsomethingscared runup theopposite sideof thestreambymewiththesameeasethattheycommonlydiddownitjusttouchingthesurfaceofthewavesandgettinganimpulsefromthemastheyflowedfromunderthembuttheysooncamebackdrivenbytheIndianwhohadfallenalittlebehinduson

accountofthewindingsHeshotroundapointjustaboveandcametolandbyuswithconsiderablewaterinhiscanoeHehadfounditashesaidverystrongwaterandhadbeenobligedtolandoncebeforetoemptyoutwhathehadtakeninHecomplainedthatitstrainedhimtopaddlesohardinordertokeephis canoe straight in its course havingnoone in thebows to aidhimand shallow as itwas said that itwould be no joke to upset there for theforceofthewaterwassuchthathehadasliefIwouldstrikehimovertheheadwithapaddleashavethatwaterstrikehimSeeinghimcomeoutofthatgapwasasifyoushouldpourwaterdownaninclinedandzigzagtroughthendropanutshellintoitandtakingashortcuttothebottomgetthereintimetoseeitcomeoutnotwithstandingtherushandtumultrightsideupandonlypartlyfullofwaterAfteramomentsbreathing-spacewhileIheldhiscanoehewassoonoutofsightagainaroundanotherbendandweshoulderingourpacksresumedourcourseWedidnotatoncefallintoourpathagainbutmadeourwaywithdifficultyalongtheedgeoftherivertillatlengthstrikinginlandthroughtheforestwerecovered itBeforegoing amileweheard the Indian calling tousHehadcome up through the woods and along the path to find us having reachedsufficientlysmoothwatertowarranthistakingusinTheshorewasaboutonefourthofamiledistantthroughadensedarkforestandasheledusbacktoitwindingrapidlyabouttotherightandleftIhadthecuriositytolookdowncarefully and found that hewas followinghis steps backward I could onlyoccasionallyperceivehis trail inthemossandyethedidnotappeartolookdownnorhesitateaninstantbutledusoutexactlytohiscanoeThissurprisedmeforwithoutacompassor thesightornoiseof theriver toguideuswecould not have kept our coursemanyminutes and could have retraced ourstepsbutashortdistancewithagreatdealofpainsandveryslowlyusingalaboriouscircumspectionButitwasevidentthathecouldgobackthroughtheforestwhereverhehadbeenduringthedayAfterthisroughwalkinginthedarkwoodsitwasanagreeablechangetoglidedowntherapidriverinthecanoeoncemoreThisriverwhichwasaboutthesizeofourAssabet(inConcord)thoughstillveryswiftwasalmostperfectlysmoothhereandshowedaveryvisibledeclivitya regularly inclinedplaneforseveralmileslikeamirrorsetalittleaslantonwhichwecoasteddownThis very obvious regular descent particularly plain when I regarded thewater-line against the shoresmade a singular impression onmewhich theswiftnessofourmotionprobablyenhancedso thatweseemedtobeglidingdown a much steeper declivity than we were and that we could not saveourselves from rapids and falls if we should suddenly come to them Mycompanion did not perceive this slope but I have a surveyors eyes and I

satisfiedmyself that itwas no ocular illusionYou could tell at a glance onapproaching such a river which way the water flowed though you mightperceivenomotionIobservedtheangleatwhichalevellinewouldstrikethesurfaceandcalculatedtheamountoffall inarodwhichdidnotneedtoberemarkablygreattoproducethiseffectItwasveryexhilaratingandtheperfectionoftravelingquiteunlikefloatingonourdeadConcordRiverthecoastingdownthisinclinedmirrorwhichwasnow and then gently winding down a mountain indeed between twoevergreenforestsedgedwithloftydeadwhitepinessometimesslantedhalf-way over the stream and destined soon to bridge it I saw some monstersthere nearly destitute of branches and scarcely diminishing in diameter foreightyorninetyfeetAswethussweptalongourIndianrepeatedinadeliberateanddrawlingtonethewordsDanielWebstergreatlawyerapparentlyremindedofhimbythenameof the stream andhe describedhis calling on himonce inBoston atwhathesupposedwashisboarding-houseHehadnobusinesswithhimbutmerelywenttopayhisrespectsasweshouldsayInanswertoourquestionshedescribedhispersonwellenoughItwasonthedayafterWebsterdeliveredhisBunkerHillorationwhichIbelievePolisheardThefirsttimehecalledhewaited till he was tired without seeing him and then went away The nexttimehesawhimgobythedooroftheroominwhichhewaswaitingseveraltimes in his shirt-sleeves without noticing him He thought that if he hadcometoseeIndianstheywouldnothavetreatedhimsoAtlengthafterverylongdelayhecameinwalkedtowardhimandaskedinaloudvoicegrufflyWhatdoyouwantandhethinkingatfirstbythemotionofhishandthathewasgoingtostrikehimsaidtohimselfYoudbettertakecareifyoutrythatIshallknowwhattodoHedidnotlikehimanddeclaredthatallhesaidwas not worth talk about a musquash We suggested that probably MrWebsterwasverybusyandhadagreatmanyvisitorsjustthenComing to falls and rapidsoureasyprogresswas suddenly terminatedTheIndianwentalongshoretoinspectthewaterwhileweclimbedovertherockspickingberriesThepeculiargrowthofblueberriesonthetopsoflargerocksheremade the impression of high land and indeed this was the Height-of-LandStreamWhentheIndiancamebackheremarkedYougottowalkverstrongwaterSo takingouthiscanoehe launcheditagainbelowthefallsandwassoonoutofsightAtsuchtimeshewouldstepintothecanoetakeuphispaddleandwithanairofmysterystartofflookingfardown-streamandkeeping his own counsel as if absorbing all the intelligence of forest andstream into himself but I sometimes detected a little fun in his facewhichcould yield tomy sympathetic smile for hewas thoroughly good-humoredWemeanwhile scrambledalong the shorewithourpackswithout anypath

ThiswasthelastofourboatingforthedayTheprevailing rockherewas akindof slate standingon its edges andmycompanionwhowasrecently fromCalifornia thought itexactly like that inwhichthegoldisfoundandsaidthatifhehadhadapanhewouldhavelikedtowashalittleofthesandhereTheIndiannowgotalongmuchfasterthanweandwaitedforusfromtimetotime I found here the only cool spring that I drank at anywhere on thisexcursion a little water filling a hollow in the sandy bank It was a quitememorableevent anddue to theelevationof thecountry forwherever elsewehadbeenthewaterintheriversandthestreamsemptyinginwasdeadandwarmcomparedwiththatofamountainousregionItwasverybadwalkingalongtheshoreoverfallenanddriftedtreesandbushesandrocksfromtimetotimeswingingourselvesroundoverthewaterorelsetakingtoagravelbarorgoinginlandAtoneplacetheIndianbeingaheadIwasobligedtotakeoffallmyclothesinordertofordasmallbutdeepstreamemptyinginwhilemycompanionwhowasinlandfoundarudebridgehighupinthewoodsandIsawnomoreofhimforsometimeIsawthereveryfreshmoosetracksfoundanewgoldenrodtome(perhapsSolidagothyrsoidea)andIpassedonewhitepine logwhichhad lodged in the forestnear theedgeof thestreamwhichwasquitefivefeetindiameteratthebuttProbablyitssizedetaineditShortlyafterthisIovertooktheIndianattheedgeofsomeburntlandwhichextended three or four miles at least beginning about three miles aboveSecondLakewhichwewereexpectingtoreachthatnightandwhichisabouttenmilesfromTelosLakeThisburntregionwasstillmorerockythanbeforebut though comparatively open we could not yet see the lake Not havingseenmycompanionforsometimeIclimbedwiththeIndianasingularhighrockontheedgeoftheriverforminganarrowridgeonlyafootortwowideattopinordertolookforhimandaftercallingmanytimesIatlengthheardhimanswerfromaconsiderabledistanceinlandhehavingtakenatrailwhichledofffromtheriverperhapsdirectlytothelakeandwasnowinsearchoftheriveragainSeeingamuchhigherrockof thesamecharacteraboutonethirdofamilefarthereastordown-streamIproceededtowarditthroughtheburnt land inorder to look for the lake from its summit supposing that theIndianwouldkeepdownthestreaminhiscanoeandhallooingall thewhilethat my companion might join me on the way Before we came together Inoticed where a moose which possibly I had scared by my shouting hadapparentlyjustrunalongalargerottentrunkofapinewhichmadeabridgethirtyorfortyfeetlongoverahollowasconvenientforhimasformeThetrackswereaslargeasthoseofanoxbutanoxcouldnothavecrossedthereThisburntlandwasanexceedinglywildanddesolateregionJudgingbytheweedsandsprouts itappearedtohavebeenburntabout twoyearsbeforeIt

wascoveredwithcharred trunkseitherprostrateorstandingwhichcrockedourclothesandhandsandwecouldnoteasilyhavedistinguishedabeartherebyhiscolorGreatshellsoftreessometimesunburntwithoutorburntononesideonlybutblackwithinstoodtwentyorfortyfeethighThefirehadrunupinsideasinachimneyleavingthesap-woodSometimeswecrossedarockyravine fifty feetwide on a fallen trunk and therewere great fields of fire-weed (Epilobium angustifolium) on all sides themost extensive that I eversaw which presented great masses of pink Intermixed with these wereblueberryandraspberrybushesHavingcrosseda second rocky ridge like the firstwhen Iwasbeginning toascend the third the Indian whom I had left on the shore some fifty rodsbehind beckoned tome to come to him but Imade sign that Iwould firstascend the highest rock before me whence I expected to see the lakeMycompanionaccompaniedmetothetopThiswasformedjust liketheothersBeingstruckwiththeperfectparallelismofthesesingularrockhillshowevermuchonemightbeinadvanceofanotherItookoutmycompassandfoundthat they laynorthwest and southeast the rockbeingon its edge and sharpedges theywereThisone to speak frommemorywasperhaps a thirdof amile in length but quite narrow rising gradually from the northwest to theheightofabouteightyfeetbutsteeponthesoutheastendThesouthwestsidewas as steep as anordinary roof or aswecould safely climb thenortheastwasanabruptprecipicefromwhichyoucouldjumpcleantothebottomnearwhichtheriverflowedwhiletheleveltopoftheridgeonwhichyouwalkedalongwasonlyfromonetothreeorfourfeetinwidthForarudeillustrationtakethehalfofapearcutintwolengthwiselayitonitsflatsidethestemtothenorthwestandthenhalveitverticallyinthedirectionofitslengthkeepingthesouthwesthalfSuchwasthegeneralformThere was a remarkable series of these great rock-waves revealed by theburning breakers as it were No wonder that the river that found its waythroughthemwasrapidandobstructedbyfallsNodoubttheabsenceofsoilon these rocks or its drynesswhere therewas any caused this tobe averythoroughburningWecouldsee the lakeover thewoods twoor threemilesaheadandthattherivermadeanabruptturnsouthwardaroundthenorthwestendofthecliffonwhichwestoodoralittleaboveussothatwehadcutoffabend and that therewas an important fall in it a short distance belowus IcouldseethecanoeahundredrodsbehindbutnowontheoppositeshoreandsupposedthattheIndianhadconcludedtotakeoutandcarryroundsomebadrapidsonthatsideandthatthatmightbewhathehadbeckonedtomeforbutafterwaiting awhile I could still seenothingof him and I observed tomycompanion that Iwonderedwherehewas thoughIbegantosuspect thathehadgoneinlandtolookforthelakefromsomehilltoponthatsideaswehaddoneThisprovedtobethecaseforafterIhadstartedtoreturntothecanoeI

heardafainthallooanddescriedhimonthetopofadistantrockyhillonthatsideButas aftera long timehadelapsed I still sawhiscanoe in the sameplaceandhehadnot returned to itandappeared innohurry todosoandmoreoverasIrememberedthathehadpreviouslybeckonedtomeIthoughtthat theremightbe somethingmore todelayhim than Iknewandbegan toreturn northwest along the ridge toward the angle in the river MycompanionwhohadjustbeenseparatedfromusandhadevencontemplatedthenecessityofcampingalonewishingtohusbandhisstepsandyettokeepwithusinquiredwhereIwasgoingtowhichIansweredthatIwasgoingfarenoughbacktocommunicatewiththeIndianandthatthenIthoughtwehadbettergoalongtheshoretogetherandkeephiminsightWhenwereached theshore the Indianappeared fromout thewoodson theopposite side but on account of the roar of the water it was difficult tocommunicatewithhimHekeptalongtheshorewestwardtohiscanoewhilewe stopped at the angle where the stream turned southward around theprecipiceIagainsaidtomycompanionthatwewouldkeepalongtheshoreand keep the Indian in sightWe started to do so being close together theIndian behind us having launched his canoe again but just then I saw thelatterwhohadcrossedtooursidefortyorfiftyrodsbehindbeckoningtomeandIcalledtomycompanionwhohadjustdisappearedbehindlargerocksatthepointoftheprecipicethreeorfourrodsbeforemeonhiswaydownthestreamthatIwasgoingtohelptheIndianamomentIdidsomdashhelpedgetthecanoeoverafalllyingwithmybreastoverarockandholdingoneendwhilehe received it belowmdashandwithin tenor fifteenminutes atmost IwasbackagainatthepointwheretheriverturnedsouthwardinordertocatchupwithmycompanionwhilePolisglideddowntheriveraloneparallelwithmeButtomy surprisewhen I rounded the precipice though the shorewas bare oftreeswithoutrocksforaquarterofamileatleastmycompanionwasnottobe seen It was as if he had sunk into the earth This was the moreunaccountable to me because I knew that his feet were since our swampwalkvery sore and thathewished tokeepwith theparty andbesides thiswas very bad walking climbing over or about the rocks I hastened alonghallooing and searching for him thinking he might be concealed behind arockyetdoubtingifhehadnottakentheothersideoftheprecipicebuttheIndianhadgotalongstillfasterinhiscanoetillhewasarrestedbythefallsaboutaquarterofamilebelowHethenlandedandsaidthatwecouldgonofartherthatnightThesunwassettingandonaccountoffallsandrapidsweshouldbeobligedtoleavethisriverandcarryagoodwayintoanotherfarthereastThefirstthingthenwastofindmycompanionforIwasnowverymuchalarmedabouthimandIsenttheIndianalongtheshoredown-streamwhichbegan to be covered with unburnt wood again just below the falls while Isearched backward about the precipice which we had passed The Indian

showed some unwillingness to exert himself complaining that hewas verytired in consequence of his dayswork that it had strained him verymuchgettingdownsomanyrapidsalonebuthewentoffcallingsomewhatlikeanowlIrememberedthatmycompanionwasnear-sightedandIfearedthathehadeitherfallenfromtheprecipiceorfaintedandsunkdownamidtherocksbeneath it I shouted and searched above and below this precipice in thetwilight till I could not see expecting nothing less than to find his bodybeneathitForhalfanhourIanticipatedandbelievedonlytheworstIthoughtwhatIshoulddothenextdayifIdidnotfindhimwhatIcoulddoinsuchawildernessandhowhisrelativeswouldfeelifIshouldreturnwithouthimIfelt that if he were really lost away from the river there it would be adesperateundertakingtofindhimandwhereweretheywhocouldhelpyouWhat would it be to raise the country where there were only two or threecampstwentyorthirtymilesapartandnoroadandperhapsnobodyathomeYetwemusttrytheharderthelesstheprospectofsuccessIrusheddownfromthisprecipicetothecanoeinordertofiretheIndiansgunbutfoundthatmycompanionhadthecapsIwasstillthinkingofgettingitoffwhentheIndianreturnedHehadnotfoundhimbuthesaidthathehadseenhistracksonceortwicealongtheshoreThisencouragedmeverymuchHeobjectedtofiringthegunsayingthatifmycompanionhearditwhichwasnotlikelyonaccountoftheroarofthestreamitwouldtempthimtocometowardusandhemightbreakhisneckinthedarkForthesamereasonwerefrainedfromlightingafireonthehighestrockIproposedthatweshouldbothkeepdownthestreamtothelakeorthatIshouldgoatanyratebuttheIndiansaidNousecantdoanythingin thedarkcomemorning thenwefind emNoharmmdashhemakeemcampNobadanimalsherenogristlybearssuchasinCalifornia where hes beenmdashwarm nightmdashhe well off as you and I IconsideredthatifhewaswellhecoulddowithoutusHehadjustlivedeightyearsinCaliforniaandhadplentyofexperiencewithwildbeastsandwildermenwaspeculiarly accustomed tomake journeysof great length but if heweresickordeadhewasnearwherewewereThedarknessinthewoodswasby this so thick that it alonedecided thequestionWemustcampwherewewereIknewthathehadhisknapsackwithblanketsandmatchesandifwellwouldfarenoworsethanweexceptthathewouldhavenosuppernorsocietyThis side of the river being so encumbered with rocks we crossed to theeasternorsmoothershoreandproceededtocamptherewithin twoor threerods of the falls We pitched no tent but lay on the sand putting a fewhandfulsofgrass and twigsunderus therebeingnoevergreenat handForfuelwehadsomeofthecharredstumpsOurvariousbagsofprovisionshadgotquitewetintherapidsandIarrangedthemaboutthefiretodryThefallclosebywastheprincipaloneonthisstreamanditshooktheearthunderusIt was a cool because dewy night the more so probably owing to the

nearness of the falls The Indian complained a good deal and thoughtafterwardthathegotacoldtherewhichoccasionedamoreseriousillnessWewerenotmuch troubledbymosquitoesat any rate I layawakeagooddealfrom anxiety but unaccountably to myself was at length comparatively ateaserespectinghimAtfirstIhadapprehendedtheworstbutnowIhadlittledoubtbutthatIshouldfindhiminthemorningFromtimetotimeIfanciedthat I heardhisvoice calling through the roarof the falls from theoppositeside of the river but it is doubtful if we could have heard him across thestream there Sometimes I doubted whether the Indian had really seen histracks sincehemanifestedanunwillingness tomakemuchofa search andthenmyanxietyreturnedIt was the most wild and desolate region we had camped in where ifanywhere one might expect to meet with befitting inhabitants but I heardonlythesqueakofanighthawkflittingoverThemooninherfirstquarterintheforepartofthenightsettingoverthebarerockyhillsgarnishedwithtallcharredandhollowstumpsorshellsoftreesservedtorevealthedesolationTHURSDAYJuly30I aroused the Indian early this morning to go in search of our companionexpecting to find him within a mile or two farther down the stream TheIndianwantedhisbreakfastfirstbutIremindedhimthatmycompanionhadhadneitherbreakfastnorsupperWewereobligedfirsttocarryourcanoeandbaggageoverintoanotherstreamthemainEastBranchaboutthreefourthsofamiledistant forWebsterStreamwasno farthernavigableWewent twiceover this carry and the dewy bushes wet us through like water up to themiddle I hallooed in a high key from time to time though I had littleexpectationthatIcouldbeheardovertheroaroftherapidsandmoreoverwewerenecessarilyontheoppositesideofthestreamtohimIngoingoverthisportage the last time the Indianwhowas beforemewith the canoe on hisheadstumbledandfellheavilyonceandlayforamomentsilentasifinpainIhastilysteppedforwardtohelphimaskingifhewasmuchhurtbutafteramomentspausewithoutreplyinghesprangupandwentforwardHewasallthewaysubjecttotaciturnfitsbuttheywereharmlessonesWe had launched our canoe and gone but littleway down theEastBranchwhenIheardanansweringshoutfrommycompanionandsoonaftersawhimstandingonapointwheretherewasaclearingaquarterofamilebelowandthesmokeofhisfirewasrisingnearbyBeforeIsawhimInaturallyshoutedagain and again but the Indian curtly remarked Hehears you as if oncewas enough It was just below the mouth of Webster Stream When wearrived he was smoking his pipe and said that he had passed a prettycomfortablenightthoughitwasrathercoldonaccountofthedewIt appeared that when we stood together the previous evening and I was

shoutingtotheIndianacrosstheriverhebeingnear-sightedhadnotseentheIndiannorhiscanoeandwhenIwentbacktotheIndiansassistancedidnotseewhichwayIwentandsupposedthatwewerebelowandnotabovehimandsomakinghaste tocatchupheranawayfromusHavingreached thisclearingamileormorebelowourcampthenightovertookhimandhemadeafireinalittlehollowandlaydownbyitinhisblanketstillthinkingthatwewereaheadofhimHethoughtitlikelythathehadheardtheIndiancalloncetheeveningbeforebutmistookitforanowlHehadseenonebotanicalraritybefore itwasdarkmdashpurewhiteEpilobiumangustifoliumamidst the fieldsofpink ones in the burnt lands He had already stuck up the remnant of alumberersshirt foundonthepointonapolebythewatersideforasignalandattachedanotetoittoinformusthathehadgoneontothelakeandthatifhedidnotfindustherehewouldbebackinacoupleofhoursIfhehadnotfoundussoonhehadsomethoughtsofgoingback insearchof thesolitaryhunterwhomwehadmetatTelosLaketenmilesbehindandifsuccessfulhirehimtotakehimtoBangorButifthishunterhadmovedasfastaswehewouldhavebeentwentymilesoffbythistimeandwhocouldguessinwhatdirectionItwouldhavebeenlikelookingforaneedleinahaymowtosearchforhimin thesewoodsHehadbeenconsideringhowlonghecould liveonberriesaloneWesubstitutedforhisnoteacardcontainingournamesanddestinationandthedateofourvisitwhichPolisneatly inclosed in apieceofbirchbark tokeepitdryThishasprobablybeenreadbysomehunterorexplorererethisWeallhadgoodappetitesforthebreakfastwhichwemadehastetocookhereand then having partially dried our clothes we glided swiftly down thewindingstreamtowardSecondLakeAs the shores became flatter with frequent gravel and sand-bars and thestreammorewindinginthelowerlandnearthelakeelmsandashtreesmadetheirappearancealsothewildyellowlily(LiliumCanadense)someofwhosebulbsIcollectedforasoupOnsomeridgestheburntlandextendedasfarasthe lakeThiswas a very beautiful lake two or threemiles longwith highmountainsonthesouthwestsidethe(asourIndiansaid)Nerlumskeechticooki e Deadwater Mountain It appears to be the same called CarbuncleMountainonthemapAccordingtoPolisitextendsinseparateelevationsallalong this and thenext lakewhich ismuch largerThe lake too I think iscalledbythesamenameorperhapswiththeadditionofgamocormoocThemorningwasabrightoneandperfectlystillandserenethelakeassmoothasglasswemaking theonly ripple aswepaddled into itThedarkmountainsabout itwere seen through aglaucousmist and thebrilliantwhite stemsofcanoebirchesmingledwiththeotherwoodsarounditThewoodthrushsangon the distant shore and the laugh of some loons sporting in a concealed

westernbayasif inspiredbythemorningcamedistinctoverthelaketousandwhatwasmoreremarkabletheechowhichranroundthelakewasmuchlouderthantheoriginalnoteprobablybecausetheloonbeinginaregularlycurvingbayunderthemountainwewereexactlyinthefocusofmanyechoesthesoundbeingreflectedlikelightfromaconcavemirrorThebeautyofthescenemayhavebeenenhancedtooureyesbythefactthatwehadjustcometogether again after a night of some anxiety This reminded me of theAmbejijis Lake on theWestBranchwhich I crossed inmy first coming toMaine Having paddled down three quarters of the lake we came to astandstillwhilemycompanionletdownforfishAwhite(orwhitish)gullsaton a rock which rose above the surface in mid-lake not far off quite inharmonywiththesceneandaswerestedthereinthewarmsunweheardoneloudcrushingorcracklingsoundfromtheforestfortyorfiftyrodsdistantasof a stick broken by the foot of some large animal Even this was aninterestingincidentthereInthemidstofourdreamsofgiantlaketrouteventhensupposedtobenibblingourfishermendrewupadiminutiveredperchandwetookupourpaddlesagaininhasteItwas not apparentwhere the outlet of this lakewas andwhile the IndianthoughtitwasinonedirectionIthoughtitwasinanotherHesaidIbetyoufour-penceitistherebuthestillheldoninmydirectionwhichprovedtobethe right oneAswewere approaching the outlet it being still early in theforenoonhesuddenlyexclaimedMoosemooseandtoldustobestillHeputacaponhisgunandstandingupinthesternrapidlypushedthecanoestraighttowardtheshoreandthemooseItwasacowmooseaboutthirtyrodsoffstandinginthewaterbythesideoftheoutletpartlybehindsomefallentimberandbushesandat thatdistanceshedidnot lookvery largeShewasflapping her large ears and from time to time poking off the flieswith hernose from somepart of her body She did not appearmuch alarmed by ourneighborhoodonlyoccasionallyturnedherheadandlookedstraightatusandthengaveherattentiontothefliesagainAsweapproachednearershegotoutofthewaterstoodhigherandregardedusmoresuspiciouslyPolispushedthecanoe steadily forward in the shallowwater and I for amoment forgot themooseinattendingtosomeprettyrose-coloredPolygonumsjustrisingabovethesurfacebutthecanoesoongroundedinthemudeightortenrodsdistantfrom the moose and the Indian seized his gun and prepared to fire Afterstandingstillamomentsheturnedslowlyasusualsoastoexposehersideandhe improved thismoment to fireoverourheadsShe thereuponmovedoff eight or ten rods at a moderate pace across a shallow bay to an oldstanding-placeofhersbehindsomefallenredmaplesontheoppositeshoreand there she stood still again a dozen or fourteen rods from us while theIndian hastily loaded and fired twice at her without her moving MycompanionwhopassedhimhiscapsandbulletssaidthatPoliswasasexcited

asaboyoffifteen thathishandtrembledandheonceputhis ramrodbackupside down This was remarkable for so experienced a hunter Perhaps hewasanxioustomakeagoodshotbeforeusThewhitehunterhadtoldmethatthe Indianswere not good shots because theywere excited though he saidthatwehadgotagoodhunterwithusTheIndiannowpushedquicklyandquietlybackandalongdistanceroundinorder to get into the outletmdashfor he had fired over the neck of a peninsulabetween itand the lakemdashtillweapproached theplacewhere themoosehadstoodwhenheexclaimedSheisagonerandwassurprisedthatwedidnotseeherassoonashedidThere tobesureshe layperfectlydeadwithhertonguehangingoutjustwhereshehadstoodtoreceivethelastshotslookingunexpectedlylargeandhorse-likeandwesawwherethebulletshadscarredthetreesUsingatapeIfoundthatthemoosemeasuredjustsixfeetfromtheshouldertothetipofthehoofandwaseightfeetlongasshelaySomeportionsofthebody for a foot in diameterwere almost coveredwith flies apparently thecommonflyofourwoodswithadarkspotonthewingandnottheverylargeones which occasionally pursued us in midstream though both are calledmoose-fliesPolispreparingtoskinthemooseaskedmetohelphimfindastoneonwhichtosharpenhislargeknifeItbeingallaflatalluvialgroundwherethemoosehadfallencoveredwithredmaplesetcthiswasnoeasymatterwesearchedfarandwidealongtimetillatlengthIfoundaflatkindofslate-stoneandsoon after he returnedwith a similar one onwhichhe soonmadehis knifeverysharpWhilehewasskinningthemooseIproceededtoascertainwhatkindoffishesweretobefoundinthesluggishandmuddyoutletThegreatestdifficultywastofindapoleItwasalmostimpossibletofindaslenderstraightpoletenortwelvefeetlonginthosewoodsYoumightsearchhalfanhourinvainTheyarecommonlysprucearbor-vitaeligfiretcshortstoutandbranchyanddonotmakegoodfish-polesevenafteryouhavepatientlycutoffalltheirtoughandscraggybranchesThefisheswereredperchandchivinThe Indian having cut off a large piece of sirloin the upper lip and thetonguewrappedtheminthehideandplacedtheminthebottomofthecanoeobservingthattherewasonemanmeaningtheweightofoneOurloadhadpreviouslybeenreducedsomethirtypoundsbutahundredpoundswerenowaddedmdasha serious additionwhichmade our quarters stillmore narrow andconsiderablyincreasedthedangeronthelakesandrapidsaswellasthelaborofthecarriesTheskinwasoursaccordingtocustomsincetheIndianwasinouremploybutwedidnotthinkofclaimingitHebeingaskillfuldresserofmoose-hideswouldmakeitworthsevenoreightdollarstohimasIwastold

HesaidthathesometimesearnedfiftyorsixtydollarsinadayatthemhehadkilledtenmooseinonedaythoughtheskinningandalltooktwodaysThiswas the way he had got his property There were the tracks of a calfthereabouts which he saidwould come by by and he could get it if wecaredtowaitbutIcastcoldwaterontheprojectWecontinuedalongtheoutlettowardGrandLakethroughaswampyregionbya longwindingandnarrowdeadwaterverymuchchokedupbywoodwherewewereobligedtolandsometimesinordertogetthecanoeoveralogItwashardtofindanychannelandwedidnotknowbutweshouldbelostintheswampItaboundedinducksasusualAtlengthwereachedGrandLakewhichtheIndiancalledMatungamookAt the head of this we saw coming in from the southwest with a sweepapparently from a gorge in themountains Trout Stream orUncardnerheesewhichnametheIndiansaidhadsomethingtodowithmountainsWe stopped to dine on an interesting high rocky island soon after enteringMatungamook Lake securing our canoe to the cliffy shore It is alwayspleasant to step from a boat on to a large rock or cliff Here was a goodopportunity to dry our dewy blankets on the open sunny rock Indians hadrecently camped here and accidentally burned over the western end of theisland and Polis picked up a gun-case of blue broadcloth and said that heknewtheIndianitbelongedtoandwouldcarryittohimHistribeisnotsolargebuthemayknowallitseffectsWeproceededtomakeafireandcookourdinneramidsomepineswhereourpredecessorshaddonethesamewhiletheIndianbusiedhimselfabouthismoose-hideontheshoreforhesaidthathethoughtitagoodplanforonetodoallthecookingieIsupposeifthatonewerenothimselfApeculiarevergreenoverhungour firewhichat firstglancelookedlikeapitchpine(Prigida)withleaveslittlemorethananinchlongspruce-likebutwefoundittobethePinusBanksianamdashBankssortheLabradorPinealsocalledscrubpinegraypineetcanewtreetousThesemust have been good specimens for several were thirty or thirty-five feethigh Richardson found it forty feet high and upward and states that theporcupinefeedsonitsbarkHerealsogrewtheredpine(Pinusresinosa)I sawwhere the Indians hadmade canoes in a little secluded hollow in thewoodsonthetopoftherockwheretheywereoutofthewindandlargepilesof whittlings remained This must have been a favorite resort for theirancestorsandindeedwefoundherethepointofanarrowheadsuchastheyhavenotusedfortwocenturiesandnowknownothowtomakeTheIndianpickingupastoneremarkedtomeThatverystrangelock(rock)Itwasapiece of hornstone which I told him his tribe had probably brought herecenturiesbeforetomakearrowheadsofHealsopickedupayellowishcurvedbonebythesideofourfireplaceandaskedmetoguesswhatitwasItwasone

of theupper incisorsof abeaveronwhich somepartyhad feastedwithinayearortwoIfoundalsomostoftheteethandtheskulletcWeheredinedonfriedmoose-meatOnewhowasmycompanioninmytwopreviousexcursionstothesewoodstells me that when hunting up the Caucomgomoc about two years ago hefoundhimself diningonedayonmoose-meatmud turtle trout andbeaverand he thought that there were few places in the world where these dishescouldeasilybebroughttogetherononetableAfter the almost incessant rapids and falls of theMadunkchunk (Height-of-Land or Webster Stream) we had just passed through the dead water ofSecondLakeandwerenowinthemuchlargerdeadwaterofGrandLakeandIthoughttheIndianwasentitledtotakeanextranaphereKtaadnnearwhichwe were to pass the next day is said to mean Highest Land So muchgeographyisthereintheirnamesTheIndiannavigatornaturallydistinguishesbyanamethosepartsofastreamwherehehasencounteredquickwaterandforksandagainthelakesandsmoothwaterwherehecanresthiswearyarmssince those are themost interesting andmore arable parts to himThe verysightoftheNerlumskeechticookorDeadwaterMountainsadaysjourneyoffovertheforestaswefirstsawthemmustawakeninhimpleasingmemoriesAndnotlessinterestingisittothewhitetravelerwhenheiscrossingaplacidlakeintheseout-of-the-waywoodsperhapsthinkingthatheisinsomesenseoneoftheearlierdiscoverersofittoberemindedthatitwasthuswellknownandsuitablynamedbyIndianhuntersperhapsathousandyearsagoAscending theprecipitous rockwhich formed this longnarrow island Iwassurprisedtofindthatitssummitwasanarrowridgewithaprecipiceononeside and that its axis of elevation extended from northwest to southeastexactly like thatof thegreat rocky ridgeat thecommencementof theBurntGround tenmiles northwesterlyThe same arrangement prevailed here andwecouldplainlyseethatthemountainridgesonthewestofthelaketrendedthesamewaySplendidlargeharebellsnoddedovertheedgeandinthecleftsofthecliffandtheblueberries(VacciniumCanadense)wereforthefirsttimereally abundant in the thin soil on its top There was no lack of themhenceforward on the East Branch There was a fine view hence over thesparklinglakewhichlookedpureanddeepandhadtwoorthreeinallrockyislands in it Our blankets being dry we set out again the Indian as usualhaving left his gazette on a tree This time it waswe three in a canoemycompanionsmokingWepaddledsouthwarddownthishandsomelakewhichappearedtoextendnearlyasfareastassouthkeepingnearthewesternshorejustoutsideasmallislandunderthedarkNerlumskeechticookMountainForIhadobservedonmymapthatthiswasthecourseItwasthreeorfourmilesacrossitItstruckmethattheoutlineofthismountainonthesouthwestofthe

lakeandofanotherbeyonditwasnotonlylikethatofthehugerockwavesofWebsterStreambutinthemainlikeKineoonMooseheadLakehavingasimilar but less abrupt precipice at the southeast end in short that all theprominenthillsandridgeshereaboutswerelargerorsmallerKineosandthatpossibly therewas such a relation betweenKineo and the rocks ofWebsterStreamTheIndiandidnotknowexactlywheretheoutletwaswhetherattheextremesouthwest angle ormore easterly and had asked to seemy plan at the laststopping-placebutIhadforgottentoshowittohimAsusualhewentfeelinghiswaybyamiddlecoursebetweentwoprobablepointsfromwhichhecoulddiverge eitherway at lastwithout losingmuch distance In approaching thesouthshoreasthecloudslookedgustyandthewavesranprettyhighwesosteeredas togetpartlyunder the leeofan island thoughatagreatdistancefromitIcouldnotdistinguishtheoutlettillwewerealmostinitandheardthewaterfallingoverthedamthereHere was a considerable fall and a very substantial dam but no sign of acabinorcampThehunterwhomwemetatTelosLakehadtoldusthattherewereplentyof trout here but at this hour theydidnot rise to thebait onlycousintroutfromtheverymidstoftherushingwatersTherearenotsomanyfishesintheseriversasintheConcordWhileweloiteredherePolistookoccasiontocutwithhisbigknifesomeofthehair fromhismoose-hide and so lightened andprepared it for drying InoticedatseveraloldIndiancampsin thewoodsthepileofhairwhichtheyhadcutfromtheirhidesHavingcarriedoverthedamhedarteddowntherapidsleavingustowalkforamileormorewhereforthemostparttherewasnopathbutverythickanddifficult traveling near the stream At length he would call to let us knowwherehewaswaitingforuswithhiscanoewhenonaccountofthewindingsofthestreamwedidnotknowwheretheshorewasbuthedidnotcalloftenenoughforgettingthatwewerenotIndiansHeseemedtobeverysavingofhisbreathmdashyethewouldbesurprisedifwewentbyordidnotstriketherightspotThiswasnotbecausehewasunaccommodatingbutaproofofsuperiormannersIndiansliketogetalongwiththeleastpossiblecommunicationandadoHewasreallypayingusagreatcomplimentall thewhile thinking thatwepreferredahinttoakickAt length climbing over thewillows and fallen treeswhen thiswas easierthantogoroundorunderthemweovertookthecanoeandglideddownthestreaminsmoothbutswiftwaterforseveralmilesIhereobservedagainasatWebsterStreamandonastill larger scale thenextday that the riverwasa

smooth and regularly inclined plane down which we coasted As we thusglidedalongwestartedthefirstblackduckswhichwehaddistinguishedWe decided to camp early to-night that we might have ample time beforedark so we stopped at the first favorable shore where there was a narrowgravelly beach on thewestern side some fivemiles below the outlet of thelakeItwasaninterestingspotwheretheriverbegantomakeagreatbendtothe east and the last of the peculiar moose-faced NerlumskeechticookMountainsnotfarsouthwestofGrandLakerosedarkinthenorthwestashortdistancebehind displaying its grayprecipitous southeast side butwe couldnotseethiswithoutcomingoutupontheshoreTwostepsfromthewateroneithersideandyoucometotheabruptbushyandrooty if not turfy edge of the bank four or five feet high where theinterminableforestbeginsasifthestreamhadbutjustcutitswaythroughitItissurprisingonsteppingashoreanywhereintothisunbrokenwildernesstoseesooftenatleastwithinafewrodsoftheriverthemarksoftheaxemadeby lumberers who have either camped here or driven logs past in previousspringsYouwillseeperchancewheregoingonthesameerrandthatyoudotheyhavecutlargechipsfromatallwhitepinestumpfortheirfireWhilewewerepitchingthecampandgettingsuppertheIndiancuttherestofthehairfrom his moose-hide and proceeded to extend it vertically on a temporaryframebetweentwosmalltreeshalfadozenfeetfromtheoppositesideofthefirelashingandstretchingitwitharbor-vitaeligbarkwhichwasalwaysathandandinthiscasewasstrippedfromoneofthetreesitwastiedtoAskingforanew kind of tea he made us some pretty good of the checkerberry(Gaultheriaprocumbens)whichcoveredthegrounddroppingalittlebunchofit tied up with cedar bark into the kettle but it was not quite equal to theChiogenesWecalledthisthereforeCheckerberry-TeaCampI was struck with the abundance of the Linnaeliga borealis checkerberry andChiogeneshispidulaalmosteverywhereintheMainewoodsThewintergreen(Chimaphila umbellata) was still in bloom here and clintonia berries wereabundant and ripeThis handsomeplant is one of themost common in thatforest We here first noticed the moose-wood in fruit on the banks Theprevailingtreeswerespruce(commonlyblack)arbor-vitaeligcanoebirch(blackash and elms beginning to appear) yellow birch red maple and a littlehemlockskulkingintheforestTheIndiansaidthatthewhitemaplepunkwasthe best for tinder that yellow birch punkwas pretty good but hardAftersupperheputonthemoosetongueandlipstoboilcuttingouttheseptumHeshowedmehowtowriteontheundersideofbirchbarkwithablacksprucetwigwhichishardandtoughandcanbebroughttoapointTheIndianwanderedoffintothewoodsashortdistancejustbeforenightandcoming back said Me found great treasuremdashfifty sixty dollars worth

WhatsthatweaskedSteeltrapsunderalogthirtyorfortyIdidntcountem I guess Indian workmdashworth three dollars apiece It was a singularcoincidence that he should have chanced to walk to and look under thatparticularloginthattracklessforestI saw chivin and chub in the stream when washing my hands but mycompaniontriedinvaintocatchthemIalsoheardthesoundofbullfrogsfromaswampontheoppositeside thinkingatfirst that theyweremooseaduckpaddled swiftly by and sitting in that dusky wilderness under that darkmountainbythebrightriverwhichwasfullofreflectedlightstillIheardthewoodthrushsingas ifnohighercivilizationcouldbeattainedBythis timethenightwasuponusYou commonlymake your camp just at sundown and are collectingwoodgetting your supper or pitching your tent while the shades of night aregathering around and adding to the already dense gloom of the forest Youhave no time to explore or look around you before it is dark You maypenetratehalfadozenrodsfartherintothattwilightwildernessaftersomedrybark to kindle your fire with and wonder what mysteries lie hidden stilldeeperinitsayattheendofalongdayswalkoryoumayrundowntotheshoreforadipperofwaterandgetaclearerviewforashortdistanceupordownthestreamandwhileyoustandthereseeafishleaporduckalightintheriverorhearawoodthrushorrobinsinginthewoodsThatisasifyouhadbeen to townorcivilizedpartsBut there isnosaunteringoff tosee thecountryandtenorfifteenrodsseemsagreatwayfromyourcompanionsandyoucomebackwiththeairofamuch-traveledmanasfromalongjourneywithadventurestorelatethoughyoumayhaveheardthecracklingofthefireall thewhilemdashand at a hundred rods youmight be lost past recovery andhavetocampoutItisallmossyandmooseyInsomeofthosedensefirandsprucewoods there is hardly room for the smoke to go up The trees are astanding night and every fir and sprucewhich you fell is a plume pluckedfromnightsravenwingThenatnightthegeneralstillnessismoreimpressivethananysoundbutoccasionallyyouhearthenoteofanowlfartherornearerin the woods and if near a lake the semihuman cry of the loons at theirunearthlyrevelsTo-nighttheIndianlaybetweenthefireandhisstretchedmoose-hidetoavoidthemosquitoesIndeedhealsomadeasmallsmokyfireofdampleavesathisheadandhisfeetandthenasusualrolleduphisheadinhisblanketWewithourveilsandourwashweretolerablycomfortablebutitwouldbedifficulttopursueanysedentaryoccupationinthewoodsatthisseasonyoucannotseetoreadmuchbythelightofafirethroughaveilintheeveningnorhandlepencilandpaperwellwithglovesoranointedfingersFRIDAYJuly31

TheIndiansaidYouandIkillmooselastnightthereforeuseembestwoodAlways use hard wood to cook moose-meat His best wood was rockmapleHecastthemooseslipintothefiretoburnthehairoffandthenrolledit upwith themeat to carry alongObserving thatwewere sitting down tobreakfastwithoutanyporkhesaidwithaverygrave lookMewantsomefatsohewastoldthathemighthaveasmuchashewouldfryWehadsmoothbutswiftwaterforaconsiderabledistancewhereweglidedrapidly along scaring up ducks and kingfishers But as usual our smoothprogresserelongcametoanendandwewereobligedtocarrycanoeandallabouthalfamiledowntherightbankaroundsomerapidsorfallsItrequiredsharpeyessometimesto tellwhichsidewasthecarrybeforeyouwentoverthe falls but Polis never failed to land us rightly The raspberries wereparticularly abundant and largehere and all handswent to eating them theIndianremarkingontheirsizeOftenonbarerockycarriesthetrailwassoindistinctthatIrepeatedlylostitbutwhenIwalkedbehindhimIobservedthathecouldkeepitalmostlikeahoundandrarelyhesitatedorifhepausedamomentonabarerockhiseyeimmediatelydetectedsomesignwhichwouldhaveescapedmeFrequentlywefoundnopathatallattheseplacesandweretohimunaccountablydelayedHewouldonlysayitwasverstrangeWehadheardof aGrandFall on this stream and thought that each fallwecametomustbeitbutafterchristeningseveralinsuccessionwiththisnamewe gave up the search There were more Grand or Petty Falls than I canrememberIcannottellhowmanytimeswehadtowalkonaccountoffallsorrapidsWewereexpectingall thewhile that theriverwouldtakeafinal leapandget tosmooth water but there was no improvement this forenoon However thecarrieswereanagreeablevarietySosurelyaswesteppedoutofthecanoeandstretched our legs we found ourselves in a blueberry and raspberry gardeneachsideofourrockytrailaroundthefallsbeinglinedwithoneorbothTherewasnotacarryonthemainEastBranchwherewedidnotfindanabundanceofboththeseberriesfortheseweretherockiestplacesandpartiallyclearedsuchastheseplantspreferandtherehadbeennonetogatherthefinestbeforeusIn our three journeys over the carriesmdashforwewere obliged to go over thegroundthreetimeswheneverthecanoewastakenoutmdashwedidfulljusticetotheberriesandtheywerejustwhatwewantedtocorrecttheeffectofourhardbread and pork diet Another name for making a portage would have beengoinga-berryingWealsofoundafewamelanchierorserviceberriesthoughmostwere abortive but they held on rathermore generally than they do inConcordTheIndiancalledthempemoymenukandsaidthattheyboremuch

fruit in some places He sometimes also ate the northern wild red cherriessayingthattheyweregoodmedicinebuttheywerescarcelyedibleWebathedanddinedatthefootofoneofthesecarriesItwastheIndianwhocommonlyremindedus that itwasdinner-time sometimesevenby turning theprow totheshoreHeoncemadean indirectbut lengthyapologybysaying thatwemight think it strange but that one who worked hard all day was veryparticulartohavehisdinneringoodseasonAtthemostconsiderablefallonthis streamwhen Iwaswalking over the carry close behind the Indian heobserveda trackon the rockwhichwasbut slightlycoveredwith soil andstoopingmutteredcaribouWhenwe returnedheobservedamuch largertrack near the same place where some animals foot had sunk into a smallhollowin therockpartly filledwithgrassandearthandheexclaimedwithsurprise What that Well what is it I asked Stooping and laying hishand in it he answeredwith amysterious air and in a halfwhisper Devil[thatisIndianDevilorcougar]mdashledgesaboutheremdashverybadanimalmdashpullemrocksall topiecesHowlongsince itwasmadeIaskedTo-dayoryesterdaysaidheButwhenIaskedhimafterwardifhewassureitwasthedevils track he said he did not know I had been told that the scream of acougar was heard about Ktaadn recently and we were not far from thatmountainWespentatleasthalfthetimeinwalkingto-dayandthewalkingwasasbadasusualfortheIndianbeingalonecommonlyrandownfarbelowthefootofthecarriesbeforehewaitedforusThecarry-pathsthemselvesweremorethanusually indistinctoften the routebeing revealedonlyby thecountlesssmallholes in the fallen timbermade by the tacks in the drivers boots orwherethere was a slight trail we did not find it It was a tangled and perplexingthicketthroughwhichwestumbledandthreadedourwayandwhenwehadfinishedamileofitourstarting-pointseemedfarawayWeweregladthatwehadnotgottowalktoBangoralongthebanksofthisriverwhichwouldbeajourneyofmorethanahundredmilesThinkofthedensenessoftheforestthefallentreesandrocksthewindingsoftheriverthestreamsemptyinginandthefrequentswampstobecrossedItmadeyoushudderYettheIndianfromtime to time pointed out to uswhere he had thus crept along day after daywhenhewasaboyoftenandinastarvingconditionHehadbeenhuntingfarnorthofthiswithtwogrownIndiansThewintercameonunexpectedlyearlyand the ice compelled them to leave their canoe at Grand Lake and walkdownthebankTheyshoulderedtheirfursandstartedforOldtownThesnowwasnotdeepenoughforsnowshoesortocovertheinequalitiesofthegroundPoliswas soon tooweak to carry anyburden but hemanaged to catchoneotterThiswasthemosttheyallhadtoeatonthisjourneyandherememberedhowgoodtheyellowlilyrootsweremadeintoasoupwiththeotteroilHeshared this food equallywith the other two but being so small he suffered

much more than they He waded through the Mattawamkeag at its mouthwhenitwasfreezingcoldandcameuptohischinandhebeingveryweakandemaciatedexpectedtobesweptawayThefirsthousewhichtheyreachedwasatLincolnandthereaboutstheymetawhiteteamsterwithsupplieswhoseeingtheirconditiongavethemasmuchofhisloadastheycouldeatForsixmonthsaftergettinghomehewasvery lowanddidnotexpect to liveandwasperhapsalwaystheworseforitWecouldnotfindmuchmorethanhalfofthisdaysjourneyonourmaps(theMap of the Public Lands of Maine and Massachusetts and ColtonsRailroad and Township Map of Maine which copies the former) By themapstherewasnotmorethanfifteenmilesbetweencampsattheoutsideandyetwehadbeenbusilyprogressingalldayandmuchofthetimeveryrapidlyForsevenoreightmilesbelowthatsuccessionofGrandfallstheaspectofthebanksaswellasthecharacterofthestreamwaschangedAfterpassingatributary from the northeast perhaps Bowlin Stream we had good swiftsmooth water with a regular slope such as I have described Low grassybanksandmuddyshoresbeganManyelmsaswellasmaplesandmoreashtreesoverhungthestreamandsupplantedthespruceMy lily roots having been lost when the canoe was taken out at a carry IlandedlateintheafternoonatalowandgrassyplaceamidmaplestogathermoreItwasslowworkgrubbingthemupamidthesandandthemosquitoeswereallthewhilefeastingonmeMosquitoesblackfliesetcpursuedusinmid-channelandweweregladsometimestogetintoviolentrapidsforthenweescapedthemAred-headedwoodpeckerflewacrosstheriverandtheIndianremarkedthatitwasgoodtoeatAsweglidedswiftlydowntheinclinedplaneoftheriveragreatcatowllauncheditselfawayfromastumponthebankandflewheavilyacross the streamand the Indian asusual imitated itsnoteSoon the samebirdflewback infrontofusandweafterwardspassed itperchedona treeSoon afterward awhite-headed eagle sailed down the stream before usWedrovehimseveralmileswhilewewerelookingforagoodplacetocampforweexpectedtobeovertakenbyashowermdashandstillwecoulddistinguishhimbyhiswhitetailsailingawayfromtimetotimefromsometreebytheshorestillfartherdownthestreamSomeshecorwaysbeingsurprisedbyusapartofthem dived andwe passed directly over them and could trace their coursehereandtherebyabubbleonthesurfacebutwedidnotseethemcomeupPolis detectedonce or twicewhat he called a tow road an indistinct pathleadingintotheforestInthemeanwhilewepassedthemouthoftheSebooison our leftThis did not look so large as our streamwhichwas indeed themainone Itwassome timebeforewe foundacamping-place for theshorewaseithertoograssyandmuddywheremosquitoesaboundedortoosteepa

hillside The Indian said that there were but few mosquitoes on a steephillsideWeexaminedagoodplacewheresomebodyhadcampedalongtimebutitseemedpitifultooccupyanoldsitewheretherewassomuchroomtochoosesowecontinuedonWeatlengthfoundaplacetoourmindsonthewest bank about amile below themouth of the Seboois where in a verydensesprucewoodaboveagravellyshorethereseemedtobebutfewinsectsThetreesweresothickthatwewereobligedtoclearaspacetobuildourfireandliedowninandtheyoungsprucetreesthatwereleftwerelikethewallofanapartment risingaroundusWewereobliged topullourselvesupasteepbank to get there But the place which you have selected for your campthough never so rough and grim begins at once to have its attractions andbecomesaverycentreofcivilization toyouHome ishomebe itneversohomelyItturnedoutthatthemosquitoesweremorenumerousherethanwehadfoundthem before and the Indian complained a good deal though he lay as thenightbeforebetweenthreefiresandhisstretchedhideAsIsatonastumpbythe firewithaveilandgloveson trying to readheobservedImakeyoucandleandinaminutehetookapieceofbirchbarkabouttwoincheswideandrolled ithard likeanallumettefifteen inches long lit itandfixed itbytheotherendhorizontallyinasplitstickthreefeethighstuckitinthegroundturning the blazing end to thewind and tellingme to snuff it from time totimeItansweredthepurposeofacandleprettywellI noticed as I had done before that therewas a lull among themosquitoesabout midnight and that they began again in the morning Nature is thusmercifulButapparently theyneed restaswellasweFew ifanycreaturesareequallyactiveallnightAssoonasitwaslightIsawthroughmyveilthattheinsideofthetentaboutourheadswasquiteblackenedwithmyriadseachoneof theirwingswhenflyingashasbeencalculatedvibratingsomethreethousand times in aminute and their combined humwas almost as bad toendureastheirstingsIhadanuncomfortablenightonthisaccountthoughIamnotsurethatonesucceededinhisattempttostingmeWedidnotsuffersomuch from insects on this excursion as the statements of some who haveexploredthesewoodsinmidsummerledustoanticipateYetIhavenodoubtthatat someseasonsand insomeplaces theyareamuchmoreseriouspestTheJesuitHieromeLalemantofQuebecreportingthedeathofFatherReniMenardwhowasabandonedlosthiswayanddiedinthewoodsamongtheOntarios near Lake Superior in 1661 dwells chiefly on his probablesufferings from theattacksofmosquitoeswhen tooweak todefendhimselfadding that there was a frightful number of them in those parts and soinsupportablesayshethatthethreeFrenchmenwhohavemadethatvoyageaffirmthattherewasnoothermeansofdefendingonesselfbuttorunalwayswithoutstoppinganditwasevennecessaryfortwoofthemtobeemployedin

drivingoffthesecreatureswhilethethirdwantedtodrinkotherwisehecouldnothavedoneitIhavenodoubtthatthiswassaidingoodfaithAugust1I caught two or three large red chivin (Leuciscus pulchellus) early thismorningwithintwentyfeetofthecampwhichaddedtothemoose-tonguethathadbeenleftinthekettleboilingovernightandtoourotherstoresmadea sumptuous breakfast The Indian made us some hemlock tea instead ofcoffeeandwewerenotobligedtogoasfarasChinaforitindeednotquiteso far as for the fish This was tolerable though he said it was not strongenoughItwas interestingtoseesosimpleadishasakettleofwaterwithahandfulofgreenhemlocksprigs in itboilingover thehuge fire in theopenairtheleavesfastlosingtheirlivelygreencolorandknowthatitwasforourbreakfastWeweregladtoembarkoncemoreandleavesomeofthemosquitoesbehindWehadpassedtheWassataquoikwithoutperceivingitThisaccordingtotheIndianisthenameofthemainEastBranchitselfandnotproperlyappliedtothissmalltributaryaloneasonthemapsWefoundthatwehadcampedaboutamileaboveHuntswhichisontheeastbankandisthelasthouseforthosewhoascendKtaadnonthissideWehadexpectedtoascenditfromthispointbutmycompanionwasobligedtogiveup this on account of sore feetThe Indian however suggested thatperhapshemightgetapairofmoccasinsatthisplaceandthathecouldwalkveryeasilyinthemwithouthurtinghisfeetwearingseveralpairsofstockingsandhesaidbesidethattheyweresoporousthatwhenyouhadtakeninwaterit all drained out again in a littlewhileWe stopped to get some sugar butfoundthatthefamilyhadmovedawayandthehousewasunoccupiedexcepttemporarily by somemenwhowere getting the hay They toldme that theroadtoKtaadnlefttherivereightmilesabovealsothatperhapswecouldgetsomesugaratFisksfourteenmilesbelowIdonotrememberthatwesawthemountain at all from the river I noticed a seine here stretchedon the bankwhichprobablyhadbeenused tocatchsalmon Justbelow thison thewestbank we saw a moose-hide stretched and with it a bearskin which wascomparativelyvery small Iwas themore interested in this sight because itwasnearhere that a townsmanofours thenquite a lad andalonekilledalargebearsomeyearsagoTheIndiansaidthattheybelongedtoJoeAitteonmylastguidebuthowhetoldIdonotknowHewasprobablyhuntingnearandhadleftthemforthedayFindingthatweweregoingdirectlytoOldtownhe regretted that he had not taken more of the moose-meat to his familysayingthatinashorttimebydryingithecouldhavemadeitsolightastohave brought away the greater part leaving the bones We once or twiceinquiredafterthelipwhichisafamoustidbitbuthesaidThatgoOldtown

formyoldwomandontgetiteverydayMaples grewmore andmore numerous Itwas lowering and rained a littleduring the forenoon and as we expected a wetting we stopped early anddinedon theeast sideofa smallexpansionof the river justabovewhatareprobably calledWhetstone Falls about a dozen miles below Hunts Therewere pretty fresh moose-tracks by the waterside There were singular longridges hereabouts called horsebacks covered with fernsMy companionhavinglosthispipeaskedtheIndianifhecouldnotmakehimoneOhyersaid he and in aminute rolled up one of birch bark telling him towet thebowlfromtimetotimeHerealsohelefthisgazetteonatreeWecarriedroundthefallsjustbelowonthewestsideTherockswereontheiredgesandverysharpThedistancewasaboutthreefourthsofamileWhenwehadcarriedoverone load the Indianreturnedby theshoreandIby thepath and though Imadenoparticular haste Iwasnevertheless surprised tofindhimat theother endas soonas I Itwas remarkablehoweasilyhegotalongover theworstgroundHe said tome I takecanoeandyou take therestsupposeyoucankeepalongwithmeIthoughtthathemeantthatwhileherandowntherapidsIshouldkeepalongtheshoreandbereadytoassisthimfromtimetotimeasIhaddonebeforebutasthewalkingwouldbeverybadIansweredIsupposeyouwillgotoofastformebutIwilltryButIwas to go by the path he said This I thoughtwould not help thematter IshouldhavesofartogotogettotheriversidewhenhewantedmeButneitherwasthiswhathemeantHewasproposingaraceoverthecarryandaskedmeifIthoughtIcouldkeepalongwithhimbythesamepathaddingthatImustbeprettysmart todo itAshis load thecanoewouldbemuch theheaviestandbulkiestthoughthesimplestIthoughtthatIoughttobeabletodoitandsaidthatIwouldtrySoIproceededtogatherupthegunaxepaddlekettlefrying-panplatesdipperscarpetsetcetcandwhileIwasthusengagedhethrewmehiscowhidebootsWhatare thesein thebargainIaskedOhyer said he but before I could make a bundle of my load I saw himdisappearingover a hillwith the canoeonhis head so hastily scraping thevariousarticlestogetherIstartedontherunandimmediatelywentbyhiminthebushesbutIhadnosoonerlefthimoutofsightinarockyhollowthanthegreasy plates dippers etc took to themselves wings and while I wasemployedingatheringthemupagainhewentbymebuthastilypressingthesootykettletomysideIstartedoncemoreandsoonpassinghimagainIsawhimnomoreonthecarryIdonotmentionthisasanythingofafeatforitwasbutpoorrunningonmypartandhewasobligedtomovewithgreatcautionfor fear of breaking his canoe as well as his neck When he made hisappearancepuffingandpantinglikemyselfinanswertomyinquirieswherehehadbeenhesaidRocks(locks)cutemfeetandlaughingaddedOhmelovetoplaysometimesHesaidthatheandhiscompanionswhenthey

cametocarriesseveralmileslongusedtotrywhowouldgetoverfirsteachperhapswithacanoeonhisheadIborethesignofthekettleonmybrownlinensackfortherestofthevoyageWemade a second carry on the west side around some falls about a milebelowthisOnthemainlandwereNorwaypinesindicatinganewgeologicalformationanditwassuchadryandsandysoilaswehadnotnoticedbeforeAsweapproachedthemouthoftheEastBranchwepassedtwoorthreehutsthe first sign of civilization afterHunts thoughwe sawno road as yetweheardacow-bellandevensawaninfanthelduptoasmallsquarewindowtoseeuspassbutapparentlytheinfantandthemotherthathelditweretheonlyinhabitantsthenathomeforseveralmilesThistookthewindoutofoursailsremindingus thatwewere travelerssurelywhile itwasanativeof thesoiland had the advantage of us Conversation flagged I would only hear theIndian perhaps ask my companion You load my pipe He said that hesmokedalderbarkformedicineOnenteringtheWestBranchatNicketowitappearedmuch larger than the East Polis remarked that the formerwas allgone and lost now that it was all smooth water hence to Oldtown and hethrew away his polewhichwas cut on theUmbazookskus Thinking of therapidshesaidonceor twice thatyouwouldntcatchhim togoEastBranchagainbuthedidnotbyanymeansmeanallthathesaidThingsarequitechangedsinceIwashereelevenyearsagoWheretherewerebutoneortwohousesInowfoundquiteavillagewithsawmillsandastore(thelatterwaslockedbutitscontentsweresomuchthemoresafelystored)and there was a stage-road to Mattawamkeag and the rumor of a stageIndeedasteamerhadascendedthusfaroncewhenthewaterwasveryhighButwewerenotabletogetanysugaronlyabettershingletoleanourbacksagainstWecampedabout twomilesbelowNicketowon the south sideof theWestBranchcoveringwithfresh twigs thewitheredbedofaformer travelerandfeelingthatwewerenowinasettledcountryespeciallywhenintheeveningweheardanoxsneezeinitswildpastureacrosstheriverWhereveryoulandalongthefrequentedpartoftheriveryouhavenotfartogotofindthesesitesoftemporaryinnsthewitheredbedofflattenedtwigsthecharredsticksandperhapsthetent-polesAndnotlongsincesimilarbedswerespreadalongtheConnecticut the Hudson and the Delaware and longer still ago by theThames and Seine and they now help to make the soil where private andpublicgardensmansionsandpalacesareWecouldnotgetfir twigsforourbed here and the spruce was harsh in comparison having more twig inproportiontoitsleafbutweimproveditsomewhatwithhemlockTheIndianremarked as before Must have hardwood to cookmoose-meat as if thatwere a maxim and proceeded to get it My companion cooked some in

Californiafashionwindingalongstringofthemeatroundastickandslowlyturning it in his hand before the fire Itwas very goodBut the Indian notapprovingofthemodeorbecausehewasnotallowedtocookithisownwaywouldnottasteitAftertheregularsupperweattemptedtomakealilysoupofthebulbswhichIhadbroughtalongforIwishedtolearnallIcouldbeforeIgot out of thewoods Following the Indians directions for he began to besickIwashedthebulbscarefullymincedsomemoose-meatandsomeporksaltedandboiledall togetherbutwehadnotpatience to try theexperimentfairlyforhesaiditmustbeboiledtilltherootswerecompletelysoftenedsoasto thicken thesoup likeflourbut thoughweleft itonallnightwefounditdried to thekettle in themorning andnotyetboiled to a flourPerhaps therootswerenotripeenoughfortheycommonlygathertheminthefallAsitwasitwaspalatableenoughbutitremindedmeoftheIrishmanslimestonebrothTheother ingredientswereenoughaloneTheIndiansnamefor thesebulbswas Sheepnoc I stirred the soup by accidentwith a stripedmaple ormoose-woodstickwhichIhadpeeledandheremarkedthatitsbarkwasanemeticHe prepared to camp as usual between his moose-hide and the fire but itbeginningtorainsuddenlyhetookrefugeunderthetentwithusandgaveusa songbefore falling asleep It rainedhard in thenight and spoiled anotherboxofmatchesforuswhichtheIndianhadleftoutforhewasverycarelessbut asusualwehad somuch thebetternight for the rain since itkept themosquitoesdownSUNDAYAugust2Was a cloudy and unpromisingmorningOne of us observed to the IndianYoudidnotstretchyourmoose-hidelastnightdidyouMrPolisWhereatherepliedinatoneofsurprisethoughperhapsnotofillhumorWhatyouaskmethatquestionforSupposeIstretchemyouseeemMaybeyourwaytalkingmaybeallrightnoIndianwayIhadobservedthathedidnotwishtoanswerthesamequestionmorethanonceandwasoftensilentwhenitwasput again for the sake of certainty as if he were moody Not that he wasincommunicativeforhefrequentlycommencedalong-windednarrativeofhisown accordmdashrepeated at length the tradition of some old battle or somepassage in the recenthistoryofhis tribe inwhichhehadactedaprominentpartfromtimetotimedrawingalongbreathandresumingthethreadofhistalewiththetruestory-tellersleisurelinessperhapsaftershootingarapidmdashprefacingwithWe-e-llby-byetcashepaddledalongEspeciallyafterthedaysworkwasoverandhehadputhimselfinpostureforthenighthewouldbeunexpectedly sociable exhibit even thebonhommieof aFrenchman andwewouldfallasleepbeforehegotthroughhisperiodsNicketowiscalledelevenmilesfromMattawamkeagbytheriverOurcamp

wasthereforeaboutninemilesfromthelatterplaceTheIndianwasquitesick thismorningwith thecolic I thought thathewastheworseforthemoose-meathehadeatenWereachedtheMattawamkeagathalfpasteightinthemorninginthemidstofadrizzlingrainandafterbuyingsomesugarsetoutagainTheIndiangrowingmuchworsewestopped in thenorthpartofLincoln toget some brandy for him but failing in this an apothecary recommendedBrandreths pills which he refused to take because he was not acquaintedwiththemHesaidtomeMedoctormdashfirststudymycasefindoutwhatailemmdashthen I know what to take We dropped down a little farther andstoppedatmid-forenoononanislandandmadehimadipperofteaHeretoowedinedanddidsomewashingandbotanizingwhilehelayonthebankInthe afternoon we went on a little farther though the Indian was no betterBurntibusashecalleditwasalongsmoothlake-likereachbelowtheFiveIslandsHesaidthatheownedahundredacressomewhereupthiswayAsathunder-showerappearedtobecomingupwestoppedoppositeabarnonthewest bank in Chester about a mile above Lincoln Here at last we wereobligedtospendtherestofthedayandnightonaccountofourpatientwhosesicknessdidnotabateHelaygroaningunderhiscanoeonthebanklookingverywoebegoneyetitwasonlyacommoncaseofcolicYouwouldnothavethoughtifyouhadseenhimlyingaboutthusthathewastheproprietorofsomany acres in that neighborhood was worth six thousand dollars and hadbeentoWashingtonItseemedtomethatliketheIrishhemadeagreateradoabouthissicknessthanaYankeedoesandwasmorealarmedabouthimselfWe talked somewhatof leavinghimwithhispeople inLincolnmdashfor that isone of their homesmdashand taking the stage the next day but he objected onaccount of the expense saying Supposemewell inmorning you and I goOldtownbynoonAswewere taking our tea at twilightwhile he lay groaning still under hiscanoehavingat length foundout whatailhimheaskedme togethimadipperofwaterTakingthedipperinonehandheseizedhispowder-hornwiththeotherandpouringintoitachargeortwoofpowderstirreditupwithhisfingeranddrankitoffThiswasallhetookto-dayafterbreakfastbesidehisteaTosavethetroubleofpitchingourtentwhenwehadsecuredourstoresfromwanderingdogswecampedinthesolitaryhalf-openbarnnearthebankwiththe permission of the owner lying on new-mown hay four feet deep Thefragranceofthehayinwhichmanyfernsetcweremingledwasagreeablethough itwas quite alivewith grasshopperswhich you could hear crawlingthroughitThisservedtograduateourapproachtohousesandfeatherbedsInthenightsomelargebirdprobablyanowlflittedthroughoverourheadsand

very early in themorningwewere awakened by the twittering of swallowswhichhadtheirneststhereMONDAYAugust3We started early before breakfast the Indian being considerably better andsoonglidedbyLincolnandafteranotherlongandhandsomelake-likereachwestoppedtobreakfastonthewestshoretwoorthreemilesbelowthistownWe frequently passed Indian islands with their small houses on them TheGovernorAitteonlivesinoneoftheminLincolnThePenobscotIndiansseemtobemoresocialeventhanthewhitesEverandanoninthedeepestwildernessofMaineyoucometotheloghutofaYankeeor Canada settler but a Penobscot never takes up his residence in such asolitudeTheyarenotevenscatteredaboutontheirislandsinthePenobscotwhichareallwithinthesettlementsbutgatheredtogetherontwoorthreemdashthoughnotalwayson thebest soilmdashevidently for thesakeofsociety I sawoneor twohousesnotnowusedby thembecauseasour IndianPolis saidtheyweretoosolitaryThe small river emptying in atLincoln is theMatanancookwhich alsowenoticedwasthenameofasteamermooredthereSowepaddledandfloatedalonglookingintothemouthsofriversWhenpassingtheMohawkRipsorastheIndiancalledthemMohoglipsfourorfivemilesbelowLincolnhetoldusatlengththestoryofafightbetweenhistribeandtheMohawksthereancientlymdashhowthelatterwereovercomebystratagemthePenobscotsusingconcealedknivesmdashbuttheycouldnotforalongtimekilltheMohawkchiefwho was a very large and strong man though he was attacked by severalcanoesatoncewhenswimmingaloneintheriverFromtimetotimewemetIndiansintheircanoesgoingupriverOurmandidnot commonly approach them but exchanged a few words with them at adistanceinhistongueThesewerethefirstIndianswehadmetsinceleavingtheUmbazookskusAt Piscataquis Falls just above the river of that namewewalked over thewoodenrailroadontheeasternshoreaboutoneandahalfmileslongwhiletheIndianglideddowntherapidsThesteamerfromOldtownstopshereandpassengerstakeanewboatabovePiscataquiswhosemouthweherepassedmeans branch It is obstructed by falls at itsmouth but can be navigatedwith batteaux or canoes above through a settled country even to theneighborhoodofMooseheadLakeandwehad thoughtat firstofgoing thatwayWewerenotobligedtogetoutofthecanoeafterthisonaccountoffallsorrapidsnorindeedwasitquitenecessaryhereWetooklessnoticeofthesceneryto-daybecausewewereinquiteasettledcountryTheriverbecamebroadandsluggishandwesawablueheronwingingitswayslowlydownthe

streambeforeusWe passed the Passadumkeag River on our left and saw the blue Olamonmountains at a distance in the southeast Hereabouts our Indian told us atlength the story of their contention with the priest respecting schools Hethought a great deal of education and had recommended it to his tribeHisargument in its favor was that if you had been to college and learnt tocalculateyoucouldkeepempropertymdashnootherwayHesaidthathisboywasthebestscholarintheschoolatOldtowntowhichhewentwithwhitesHehimselfisaProtestantandgoestochurchregularlyatOldtownAccordingto his account a good many of his tribe are Protestants and many of theCatholics also are in favor of schools Some years ago they had aschoolmaster aProtestantwhom they likedverywellThepriest cameandsaidthattheymustsendhimawayandfinallyhehadsuchinfluencetellingthemthattheywouldgotothebadplaceatlastiftheyretainedhimthattheysent him away The school party though numerous were about giving upBishopFenwickcamefromBostonandusedhis influenceagainst themButourIndiantoldhissidethattheymustnotgiveupmustholdontheywerethestrongestIftheygaveupthentheywouldhavenopartyButtheyansweredthat it was no use priest too strong wed better give up At length hepersuadedthemtomakeastandThepriestwasgoingforasigntocutdowntheliberty-poleSoPolisandhispartyhadasecretmeetingaboutithegotreadyfifteenortwentystoutyoungmen stript em naked and painted em like old times and told them thatwhenthepriestandhispartywenttocutdowntheliberty-poletheyweretorush up take hold of it and prevent them and he assured them that therewouldbenowar only anoisemdashnowarwherepriest isHekepthismenconcealed in a house near by andwhen the priests partywere about to cutdowntheliberty-polethefallofwhichwouldhavebeenadeath-blowtotheschoolpartyhegaveasignalandhisyoungmenrushedoutandseized thepoleTherewasagreatuproarandtheywereaboutcomingtoblowsbutthepriest interfered saying Nowar nowar and so the pole stands and theschoolgoesonstillWethoughtthatitshowedagooddealoftactinhimtoseizethisoccasionandtakehisstandonitprovinghowwellheunderstoodthosewithwhomhehadtodealTheOlamonRivercomesinfromtheeastinGreenbushafewmilesbelowthePassadumkeag When we asked the meaning of this name the Indian saidtherewasanislandoppositeitsmouthwhichwascalledOlarmonthatinoldtimeswhenvisitorswerecomingtoOldtowntheyusedtostoptheretodressand fixupor paint themselves What is thatwhich ladiesusedhe askedRougeRedVermilionYerhesaidthat is larmonakindofclayorred

paintwhichtheyusedtogethereWedecidedthatwetoowouldstopatthisislandandfixupourinnermanatleastbydiningItwasa large islandwithanabundanceofhempnettlebut IdidnotnoticeanykindofredpaintthereTheOlamonRiveratitsmouthatleastisadeadstreamTherewasanotherlargeislandinthatneighborhoodwhichtheIndiancalledSoogle(ieSugar)IslandAboutadozenmilesbeforereachingOldtownheinquiredHowyoulikeemyourpilotButwepostponedananswertillwehadgotquitebackagainTheSunkhaze another shortdead streamcomes in from theeast twomilesaboveOldtownThereissaidtobesomeofthebestdeergroundinMaineonthisstreamAskingthemeaningofthisnametheIndiansaidSupposeyouaregoingdownPenobscotjustlikeweandyouseeacanoecomeoutofbankandgoalongbeforeyoubutyounoseeemstreamThatisSunkhazeHehadpreviously complimentedmeonmypaddling saying that I paddledjust likeanybodygivingmeanIndiannamewhichmeantgreatpaddlerWhen off this stream he said to me who sat in the bows Me teach youpaddleSo turning toward theshorehegotout cameforwardandplacedmyhandsashewishedHeplacedoneofthemquiteoutsidetheboatandtheotherparallelwiththefirstgraspingthepaddleneartheendnotovertheflatextremityandtoldmetoslideitbackandforthonthesideofthecanoeThisIfoundwasagreatimprovementwhichIhadnotthoughtofsavingmethelaborofliftingthepaddleeachtimeandIwonderedthathehadnotsuggesteditbeforeItistruebeforeourbaggagewasreducedwehadbeenobligedtositwith our legs drawn up and our knees above the side of the canoe whichwouldhavepreventedourpaddlingthusorperhapshewasafraidofwearingouthiscanoebyconstantfrictiononthesideItoldhimthatIhadbeenaccustomedtositinthesternandliftingmypaddleateachstrokegiveitatwistinordertosteertheboatonlygettingapryonthesideeachtimeandIstillpaddledpartlyasifinthesternHethenwantedtoseemepaddleinthesternSochangingpaddlesforhehadthelongerandbetteroneandturningendforendhesittingflatonthebottomandIonthecrossbarhebegantopaddleveryhardtryingtoturnthecanoelookingoverhisshoulderandlaughingbutfindingitinvainherelaxedhiseffortsthoughwestillspedalongamileortwoveryswiftlyHesaidthathehadnofaulttofindwithmypaddling in the stern but I complained that he did not paddleaccordingtohisowndirectionsinthebowsOpposite the Sunkhaze is themain boom of the Penobscot where the logsfromfaruptheriverarecollectedandassortedAswe drew near toOldtown I asked Polis if hewas not glad to get home

again but therewasno relenting to hiswildness andhe said ItmakesnodifferencetomewhereIamSuchistheIndianspretensealwaysWeapproachedtheIndianIslandthroughthenarrowstraitcalledCookHesaidIxpectwetakeinsomewaterthereriversohighmdashneverseeitsohighatthisseasonVeryroughwatertherebutshortswampsteamboatonceDontyou paddle till I tell you then you paddle right along Itwas a very shortrapidWhen we were in the midst of it he shouted paddle and we shotthroughwithouttakinginadropSoon after the Indian houses came in sight but I could not at first tellmycompanionwhichoftwoorthreelargewhiteoneswasourguidesHesaiditwastheonewithblindsWelandedoppositehisdoorataboutfourintheafternoonhavingcomesomeforty miles this day From the Piscataquis we had come remarkably andunaccountablyquickprobablyasfastasthestageortheboatthoughthelastdozenmileswasdeadwaterPoliswanted to sell ushis canoe said itwould last sevenor eightyears orwithcareperhapstenbutwewerenotreadytobuyitWe stopped for anhour at his housewheremycompanion shavedwithhisrazorwhichhepronouncedinverygoodconditionMrsPworeahatandhadasilverbroochonherbreastbutshewasnotintroducedtousThehousewasroomyandneatAlargenewmapofOldtownandtheIndianIslandhungonthe wall and a clock opposite to it Wishing to know when the cars leftOldtownPolisssonbroughtoneofthelastBangorpaperswhichIsawwasdirectedtoJosephPolisfromtheofficeThiswas the last thatIsawofJoePolisWetookthe last trainandreachedBangorthatnight

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was fortunate also in the season of the year for in the summermyriads ofblack flies mosquitoes and midges or as the Indians call them no-see-emsmaketravelinginthewoodsalmostimpossiblebutnowtheirreignwasnearlyoverKtaadn whose name is an Indian word signifying highest land was firstascendedbywhitemen in1804 ItwasvisitedbyProfessor JWBaileyofWestPoint in1836byDrCharlesTJackson theStateGeologist in1837andbytwoyoungmenfromBostonin1845AllthesehavegivenaccountsoftheirexpeditionsSinceIwastheretwoorthreeotherpartieshavemadetheexcursion and told their stories Besides these very few even amongbackwoodsmenandhuntershaveeverclimbed itand itwillbea long timebeforethetideoffashionabletravelsetsthatwayThemountainousregionoftheStateofMainestretchesfromneartheWhiteMountainsnortheasterlyonehundredandsixtymilestotheheadoftheAroostookRiverandisaboutsixtymileswideThewildorunsettledportionisfarmoreextensiveSothatsomehoursonlyof travel in thisdirectionwill carry thecurious to thevergeofaprimitive forestmore interesting perhaps on all accounts than theywouldreachbygoingathousandmileswestwardThenextforenoonTuesdaySeptember1 Istartedwithmycompanion inabuggy from Bangor for up river expecting to be overtaken the next daynightatMattawamkeagPointsomesixtymilesoffbytwomoreBangoreanswhohaddecidedtojoinusinatriptothemountainWehadeachaknapsackor bag filledwith such clothing and articles aswere indispensable andmycompanioncarriedhisgunWithinadozenmilesofBangorwepassedthroughthevillagesofStillwaterandOldtownbuilt at the falls of thePenobscotwhich furnish theprincipalpower bywhich theMainewoods are converted into lumber Themills arebuiltdirectlyoverandacrosstheriverHereisaclosejamahardrubatallseasonsandthentheoncegreentreelongsincewhiteIneednotsayasthedriven snow but as a driven log becomes lumber merely Here your inchyour two and your three inch stuff begin to be andMr Sawyermarks offthosespaceswhichdecide thedestinyofsomanyprostrate forestsThroughthissteelriddlemoreorlesscoarseisthearrowyMaineforestfromKtaadnandChesuncookandthehead-watersoftheStJohnrelentlesslysiftedtillitcomesoutboardsclapboards lathsandshinglessuchas thewindcan takestillperchancetobeslitandslitagaintillmengetasizethatwillsuitThinkhow stood the white pine tree on the shore of Chesuncook its branchessoughingwith the fourwinds and every individual needle trembling in thesunlightmdashthink how it stands with it nowmdashsold perchance to the NewEnglandFriction-MatchCompanyTherewerein1837asIreadtwohundredand fifty sawmills on the Penobscot and its tributaries above Bangor the

greater part of them in this immediate neighborhood and they sawed twohundredmillionsoffeetofboardsannuallyTothisistobeaddedthelumberoftheKennebecAndroscogginSacoPassamaquoddyandotherstreamsNowonder that we hear so often of vessels which are becalmed off our coastbeingsurroundedaweekatatimebyfloatinglumberfromtheMainewoodsThemissionofmenthereseemstobelikesomanybusydemonstodrivetheforestalloutofthecountryfromeverysolitarybeaverswampandmountain-sideassoonaspossibleAtOldtownwewalkedintoabatteau-manufactoryThemakingofbatteauxisquite a business here for the supply of the Penobscot RiverWe examinedsomeon the stocksThey are light and shapely vessels calculated for rapidand rockystreamsand tobecarriedover longportagesonmens shouldersfromtwentytothirtyfeetlongandonlyfourorfourandahalfwidesharpatbothendslikeacanoethoughbroadestforwardonthebottomandreachingsevenor eight feetover thewater inorder that theymay slipover rocksasgently as possible They are made very slight only two boards to a sidecommonlysecuredtoafewlightmapleorotherhard-woodkneesbutinwardareoftheclearestandwidestwhitepinestuffofwhichthereisagreatwasteon account of their form for thebottom is left perfectly flat not only fromside to side but from end to end Sometimes they become hogging evenafterlonguseandtheboatmenthenturnthemoverandstraightenthembyaweightateachendTheytoldusthatoneworeoutintwoyearsorofteninasingle tripontherocksandsoldforfromfourteentosixteendollarsTherewassomethingrefreshingandwildlymusicaltomyearsintheverynameofthewhitemanscanoeremindingmeofCharlevoixandCanadianVoyageursThebatteauisasortofmongrelbetweenthecanoeandtheboatafur-tradersboatTheferryheretookuspasttheIndianislandAswelefttheshoreIobservedashort shabby washerwoman-looking Indianmdashthey commonly have thewoebegonelookofthegirlthatcriedforspiltmilkmdashjustfromupriverlandon the Oldtown side near a grocery and drawing up his canoe take out abundleofskinsinonehandandanemptykegorhalf-barrelintheotherandscrambleupthebankwiththemThispicturewilldotoputbeforetheIndianshistorythatisthehistoryofhisextinctionIn1837therewerethreehundredandsixty-twosoulsleftofthistribeTheislandseemeddesertedto-dayyetIobservedsomenewhousesamongtheweather-stainedonesasifthetribehadstill a design upon life but generally they have a very shabby forlorn andcheerlesslookbeingallbacksideandwoodshednothomesteadsevenIndianhomesteads but instead of home or abroad-steads for their life is domi autmilitiaeligathomeoratwarornowrathervenatusthatisahuntingandmostof the latter The church is the only trim-looking building but that is notAbenaki thatwasRomes doingsGoodCanadian itmay be but it is poor

IndianThesewereonceapowerful tribePoliticsareall theragewith themnowIeventhoughtthatarowofwigwamswithadanceofpowwowsandaprisonertorturedatthestakewouldbemorerespectablethanthisWelandedinMilfordandrodealongontheeastsideofthePenobscothavingamoreorlessconstantviewoftheriverandtheIndianislandsinitfortheyretainall theislandsasfarupasNicketowat themouthoftheEastBranchThey are generally well-timbered and are said to be better soil than theneighboring shoresThe river seemed shallowand rocky and interruptedbyrapids ripplingandgleaming in the sunWepausedamoment to seea fishhawkdive for a fish down straight as an arrow from a great height but hemissed his prey this time It was theHoulton road onwhichwewere nowtraveling over which some troops were marched once towards Mars HillthoughnottoMarsfieldasitprovedItisthemainalmosttheonlyroadinthesepartsasstraightandwellmadeandkeptinasgoodrepairasalmostanyyouwillfindanywhereEverywherewesawsignsofthegreatfreshetmdashthishouse standing awry and that where it was not founded but where it wasfoundatanyratethenextdayandthatotherwithawaterloggedlookasifitwere still airing and drying its basement and logs with everybodys marksuponthemandsometimesthemarksoftheirhavingservedasbridgesstrewnalong the road We crossed the Sunkhaze a summery Indian name theOlemmonPassadumkeagandotherstreamswhichmakeagreatershowonthemapthantheynowdidontheroadAtPassadumkeagwefoundanythingbutwhatthenameimpliesmdashearnestpoliticianstowitmdashwhiteonesImeanmdashon the alert to know how the electionwas likely to gomenwho talkedrapidlywithsubduedvoiceandasortoffactitiousearnestnessyoucouldnothelp believing hardlywaiting for an introduction one on each side of yourbuggy endeavoring to say much in little for they see you hold the whipimpatiently but always saying little in much Caucuses they have had itseemsandcaucuses theyare tohaveagainmdashvictoryanddefeatSomebodymaybeelectedsomebodymaynotOnemanatotalstrangerwhostoodbyourcarriageintheduskactuallyfrightenedthehorsewithhisasseverationsgrowingmoresolemnlypositiveastherewaslessinhimtobepositiveaboutSoPassadumkeagdidnotlookonthemapAtsundownleavingtheriverroadawhile for shortnesswewentbywayofEnfieldwherewe stopped for thenightThislikemostofthelocalitiesbearingnamesonthisroadwasaplacetonamewhich in themidstof theunnamedandunincorporatedwildernesswas to make a distinction without a difference it seemed to me HerehoweverInoticedquiteanorchardofhealthyandwell-grownappletreesinabearingstate itbeing theoldest settlershouse in this regionbutallnaturalfruitandcomparativelyworthlessforwantofagrafterAndsoitisgenerallylower down the river It would be a good speculation as well as a favorconferred on the settlers for aMassachusetts boy to go down there with a

trunkfullofchoicescionsandhisgraftingapparatusinthespringThenextmorningwedrovealongthroughahighandhillycountryinviewofCold-StreamPondabeautifullakefourorfivemileslongandcameintotheHoultonroadagainherecalledthemilitaryroadatLincolnforty-fivemilesfromBangorwherethereisquiteavillageforthiscountrymdashtheprincipaloneaboveOldtownLearningthattherewereseveralwigwamshereononeoftheIndianislandsweleftourhorseandwagonandwalkedthroughtheforesthalfamile to the river to procure a guide to themountain Itwas not till afterconsiderable search that we discovered their habitationsmdashsmall huts in aretired place where the scenery was unusually soft and beautiful and theshoreskirtedwithpleasantmeadowsandgracefulelmsWepaddledourselvesacrosstotheislandsideinacanoewhichwefoundontheshoreNearwherewelandedsatanIndiangirltenortwelveyearsoldonarockinthewaterinthe sun washing and humming or moaning a song meanwhile It was anaboriginal strain A salmon-spear made wholly of wood lay on the shoresuchastheymighthaveusedbeforewhitemencameIthadanelasticpieceofwoodfastenedtoonesideofitspointwhichslippedoverandcloseduponthefishsomewhatlikethecontrivanceforholdingabucketattheendofawell-poleAswewalkeduptothenearesthouseweweremetbyasallyofadozenwolfish-looking dogs which may have been lineal descendants from theancient Indian dogswhich the first voyageurs describe as theirwolves IsupposetheywereTheoccupantsoonappearedwithalongpoleinhishandwithwhichhebeatoff thedogswhileheparleyedwithusmdashastalwartbutdullandgreasy-lookingfellowwhotoldusinhissluggishwayinanswertoourquestionsasifitwerethefirstseriousbusinesshehadtodothatdaythattherewereIndiansgoinguprivermdashheandoneothermdashto-daybeforenoonAndwhowastheotherLouisNeptunewholivesinthenexthouseWellletus go over and see Louis together The same doggish reception and LouisNeptune makes his appearancemdasha small wiry man with puckered andwrinkled face yet he seemed the chief man of the two the same as IrememberedwhohadaccompaniedJacksontothemountainin37Thesamequestions were put to Louis and the same information obtained while theotherIndianstoodbyItappearedthattheyweregoingtostartbynoonwithtwo canoes to go up to Chesuncook to huntmoosemdashto be gone amonthWell Louis suppose you get to the Point (to the Five Islands just belowMattawamkeag)tocampwewalkonuptheWestBranchtomorrowmdashfourofusmdashandwaitforyouatthedamorthissideYouovertakeusto-morrowornextdayandtakeusintoyourcanoesWestopforyouyoustopforusWepay you for your trouble Ye replied Louis may be you carry someprovisionforallmdashsomeporkmdashsomebreadmdashandsopayHesaidMesuregetsomemooseandwhenIaskedifhethoughtPomolawouldletusgoupheansweredthatwemustplantonebottleofrumonthetophehadplanted

goodmanyandwhenhelookedagaintherumwasallgoneHehadbeenuptwo or three times he had planted lettermdashEnglish German French etcThesemenwereslightlycladinshirtandpantaloonslikelaborerswithusinwarmweatherTheydidnotinviteusintotheirhousesbutmetusoutsideSowelefttheIndiansthinkingourselvesluckytohavesecuredsuchguidesandcompanionsTherewereveryfewhousesalongtheroadyettheydidnotaltogetherfailasif the lawbywhichmen are dispersedover theglobewere a very stringentone and not to be resistedwith impunity or for slight reasons TherewereeventhegermsofoneortwovillagesjustbeginningtoexpandThebeautyofthe road itself was remarkable The various evergreensmany of which arerarewithusmdashdelicateandbeautifulspecimensofthelarcharbor-vitaeligball-spruce and fir-balsam froma few inches tomany feet in heightmdashlined itssides in some places like a long front yard springing up from the smoothgrass-plotswhichuninterruptedlyborder itandaremadefertilebyitswashwhile it was but a step on either hand to the grim untrodden wildernesswhosetangledlabyrinthoflivingfallenanddecayingtreesonlythedeerandmoose thebear andwolf caneasilypenetrateMoreperfect specimens thananyfront-yardplotcanshowgrewthere togracethepassageof theHoultonteamsAbout noonwe reached theMattawamkeag fifty-sixmiles fromBangor bythewaywehadcomeandputupata frequentedhousestillon theHoultonroadwhere theHoulton stage stopsHerewas a substantial covered bridgeovertheMattawamkeagbuiltIthinktheysaidsomeseventeenyearsbeforeWehaddinnermdashwherebythewayandevenatbreakfastaswellassupperatthepublic-housesonthisroadthefrontrankiscomposedofvariouskindsofsweetcakesinacontinuouslinefromoneendofthetabletotheotherIthinkImaysafelysaythattherewasarowoftenoradozenplatesofthiskindset before us two here To account for which they say that when thelumbererscomeoutofthewoodstheyhaveacravingforcakesandpiesandsuchsweetthingswhichtherearealmostunknownandthisisthesupplytosatisfy that demand The supply is always equal to the demand and thesehungrymen think agooddeal of getting theirmoneysworthNodoubt thebalanceofvictualsisrestoredbythetimetheyreachBangormdashMattawamkeagtakesofftherawedgeWelloverthisfrontrankIsayyoucomingfromthesweet cake side with a cheap philosophic indifference though it may behave to assaultwhat there is behindwhich I donot by anymeansmean toinsinuateisinsufficientinquantityorqualitytosupplythatotherdemandofmennotfromthewoodsbutfromthetownsforvenisonandstrongcountryfareAfterdinnerwestrolleddowntothePointformedbythejunctionofthetworiverswhichissaidtobethesceneofanancientbattlebetweentheEastern Indians and the Mohawks and searched there carefully for relics

thoughthemenatthebar-roomhadneverheardofsuchthingsbutwefoundonly some flakesof arrowhead stone somepointsof arrowheadsone smallleadenbulletandsomecoloredbeadsthelasttobereferredperhapstoearlyfur-traderdaysTheMattawamkeagthoughwidewasamereriversbedfullofrocksandshallowsatthistimesothatyoucouldcrossitalmostdry-shodinbootsandIcouldhardlybelievemycompanionwhenhetoldmethathehadbeen fifty or sixty miles up it in a batteau through distant and still uncutforests A batteau could hardly find a harbor now at its mouth Deer andcaribouorreindeeraretakenhereinthewinterinsightofthehouseBeforeourcompanionsarrivedwerodeonuptheHoultonroadsevenmilestoMolunkuswhere theAroostook road comes into it andwhere there is aspaciouspublichouseinthewoodscalledtheMolunkusHousekeptbyoneLibbeywhich lookedas if ithad itshall fordancingand formilitarydrillsTherewasnootherevidenceofmanbutthishugeshinglepalaceinthispartoftheworld but sometimes even this is filledwith travelers I looked off thepiazza round thecornerof thehouseup theAroostookroadonwhich therewas no clearing in sight There was a man just adventuring upon it thisevening in a rude original what youmay call Aroostook wagonmdashamereseatwithawagonswungunderitafewbagsonitandadogasleeptowatchthem He offered to carry a message for us to anybody in that countrycheerfullyIsuspectthatifyoushouldgototheendoftheworldyouwouldfindsomebodytheregoingfartherasifjuststartingforhomeatsundownandhavingalastwordbeforehedroveoffHeretoowasasmalltraderwhomIdidnotseeatfirstwhokeptastoremdashbutnogreatstorecertainlymdashinasmallboxoverthewaybehindtheMolunkussign-postItlookedlikethebalance-boxofapatenthay-scalesAsforhishousewecouldonlyconjecturewherethat was he may have been a boarder in theMolunkus House I saw himstanding in his shopdoormdashhis shopwas so small that if a traveler shouldmakedemonstrationsofenteringinhewouldhavetogooutbythebackwayandconferwithhiscustomerthroughawindowabouthisgoodsinthecellarormoreprobablybespokenandyetonthewayIshouldhavegoneinforIfelt a real impulse to trade if I had not stopped to consider what wouldbecomeofhimThedaybeforewehadwalked intoashopoveragainstaninnwherewestoppedthepunybeginningoftradewhichwouldgrowatlastinto a firm copartnership in the future townor citymdashindeed itwas alreadySomebody amp Co I forget who The woman came forward from thepenetraliaof theattachedhouse for SomebodyampCowas in theburningand she sold us percussion-caps canaleacutes and smooth and knew their pricesandqualitiesandwhichthehunterspreferredHerewasalittleofeverythingin a small compass to satisfy thewants and the ambition of thewoodsmdashastockselectedwithwhatpainsandcareandbroughthomeinthewagon-boxor a corner of the Houlton team but there seemed to me as usual a

preponderance of childrens toysmdashdogs to bark and cats to mew andtrumpetstoblowwherenativestherehardlyareyetAsifachildbornintotheMainewoodsamongthepineconesandcedarberriescouldnotdowithoutsuchasugar-manorskipping-jackastheyoungRothschildhasIthinkthattherewasnotmorethanonehouseontheroadtoMolunkusorforsevenmilesAtthatplacewegotoverthefenceintoanewfieldplantedwithpotatoeswherethelogswerestillburningbetweenthehillsandpullingupthe vines found good-sized potatoes nearly ripe growing like weeds andturnipsmixedwiththemThemodeofclearingandplantingistofellthetreesandburnoncewhatwillburnthencutthemupintosuitablelengthsrollintoheapsandburnagainthenwithahoeplantpotatoeswhereyoucancomeatthe ground between the stumps and charred logs for a first crop the ashessufficingformanureandnohoeingbeingnecessarythefirstyearInthefallcutrollandburnagainandsoontillthelandisclearedandsoonitisreadyforgrainandtobelaiddownLetthosetalkofpovertyandhardtimeswhowillinthetownsandcitiescannottheemigrantwhocanpayhisfaretoNewYorkorBostonpay fivedollarsmore togetheremdashIpaid threeall told formypassagefromBostontoBangortwohundredandfiftymilesmdashandbeasrich as he pleases where land virtually costs nothing and houses only thelaborofbuildingandhemaybeginlifeasAdamdidIfhewillstillrememberthe distinction of poor and rich let him bespeak him a narrower houseforthwithWhenwereturnedtotheMattawamkeagtheHoultonstagehadalreadyputupthereandaProvincemanwasbetrayinghisgreennesstotheYankeesbyhisquestionsWhyProvincemoneywontpasshereatparwhenStatesmoneyisgoodatFrederictonmdashthoughthisperhapswassensibleenoughFromwhatIsawthenitappearsthattheProvincemanwasnowtheonlyrealJonathanorrawcountrybumpkinleftsofarbehindbyhisenterprisingneighborsthathedidntknowenough toput aquestion to themNopeoplecan longcontinueprovincialincharacterwhohavethepropensityforpoliticsandwhittlingandrapid traveling which the Yankees have and who are leaving the mothercountrybehindin thevarietyof theirnotionsandinventionsThepossessionand exercise of practical talent merely are a sure and rapid means ofintellectualcultureandindependenceThe lasteditionofGreenleafsMapofMainehungon thewallhereandaswehadnopocket-mapwe resolved to trace amapof the lake country Sodipping awad of tow into the lampwe oiled a sheet of paper on the oiledtable-clothand ingoodfaith tracedwhatweafterwardsascertainedtobealabyrinth of errors carefully following the outlines of the imaginary lakeswhich the map contains The Map of the Public Lands of Maine andMassachusettsistheonlyoneIhaveseenthatatalldeservesthenameItwas

whilewewere engaged in this operation that our companions arrivedTheyhadseentheIndiansfireontheFiveIslandsandsoweconcludedthatallwasrightEarlythenextmorningwehadmountedourpacksandpreparedforatrampuptheWestBranchmycompanionhavingturnedhishorseouttopastureforaweekor tendays thinking thatabiteof freshgrassanda tasteof runningwater would do him as much good as backwoods fare and new countryinfluences hismasterLeaping over a fencewebegan to follow an obscuretrailup thenorthernbankof thePenobscotTherewasnowno road furthertheriverbeingtheonlyhighwayandbuthalfadozenloghutsconfinedtoitsbanks to be met with for thirty miles On either hand and beyond was awhollyuninhabitedwilderness stretching toCanadaNeitherhorsenorcownorvehicleofanykindhadeverpassedoverthisgroundthecattleandthefewbulkyarticleswhichtheloggersusebeinggotupinthewinterontheiceand down again before it breaks up The evergreenwoods had a decidedlysweetandbracingfragrancetheairwasasortofdiet-drinkandwewalkedonbuoyantly in Indian file stretchingour legsOccasionally therewas a smallopeningonthebankmadeforthepurposeoflog-rollingwherewegotasightoftherivermdashalwaysarockyandripplingstreamTheroaroftherapidsthenoteofawhistlerduckontheriverofthejayandchickadeearoundusandofthepigeonwoodpeckerintheopeningswerethesoundsthatweheardThiswaswhatyoumightcallabran-newcountrytheonlyroadswereofNaturesmaking and the few houses were camps Here then one could no longeraccuseinstitutionsandsocietybutmustfrontthetruesourceofevilThere are three classes of inhabitants who either frequent or inhabit thecountrywhichwehadnowentered first the loggerswho forapartof theyear thewinter and spring are far themost numerous but in the summerexceptafewexplorersfortimbercompletelydesertitsecondthefewsettlersIhavenamedtheonlypermanentinhabitantswholiveonthevergeofitandhelp raise supplies for the former third the hunters mostly Indians whorangeoveritintheirseasonAttheendofthreemileswecametotheMattaseunkstreamandmillwheretherewasevenarudewoodenrailroadrunningdowntothePenobscotthelastrailroadweweretoseeWecrossedonetractonthebankoftheriverofmorethan a hundred acres of heavy timberwhich had just been felled and burntoverandwasstillsmokingOurtraillaythroughthemidstofitandwaswell-nigh blotted out The trees lay at full length four or five feet deep andcrossingeachotherinalldirectionsallblackascharcoalbutperfectlysoundwithin stillgoodfor fuelor for timber soon theywouldbecut into lengthsand burnt againHerewere thousands of cords enough to keep the poor ofBoston andNewYork amply warm for a winter which only cumbered the

ground and were in the settlers way And the whole of that solid andinterminable forest is doomed to be gradually devoured thus by fire likeshavingsandnomanbewarmedbyitAtCrockerslog-hutatthemouthofSalmon River seven miles from the Point one of the party commenceddistributingastoreofsmallcentpicture-booksamongthechildren to teachthem to read and also newspapersmore or less recent among the parentsthan which nothing can bemore acceptable to a backwoods people It wasreally an important item in our outfit and at times the only currency thatwould circulate Iwalked throughSalmonRiverwithmy shoeson it beinglowwaterbutnotwithoutwettingmyfeetAfewmiles fartherwecame toMarmHowardsattheendofanextensiveclearingwherethereweretwoorthreeloghutsinsightatonceoneontheoppositesideoftheriverandafew graves even surrounded by a wooden paling where already the rudeforefathersofahamletlieandathousandyearshenceperchancesomepoetwillwritehisElergyinaCountryChurchyardTheVillageHampdensthemute inglorious Miltons and Cromwells guiltless of their countrysbloodwereyetunbornPerchanceinthiswildspottherewillbelaidSomeheartoncepregnantwithcelestialfireHandsthattherodofempiremighthaveswayedOrwakedtoecstasythelivinglyreThenexthousewasFiskstenmilesfromthePointatthemouthoftheEastBranchopposite to the islandNicketowor theForks the last of the Indianislands I am particular to give the names of the settlers and the distancessinceeveryloghutinthesewoodsisapublichouseandsuchinformationisofno little consequence to thosewhomayhaveoccasion to travel thiswayOurcourseherecrossedthePenobscotandfollowedthesouthernbankOneof the party who entered the house in search of some one to set us overreported a very neat dwelling with plenty of books and a new wife justimportedfromBostonwhollynewtothewoodsWefoundtheEastBranchalargeandrapidstreamatitsmouthandmuchdeeperthanitappearedHavingwith somedifficultydiscovered the trail againwekeptup the south sideoftheWestBranchormainriverpassingbysomerapidscalledRock-Ebeemethe roar of which we heard through the woods and shortly after in thethickest of the wood some empty loggers camps still new which wereoccupied thepreviouswinterThoughwesawa fewmoreafterwards IwillmakeoneaccountserveforallTheseweresuchhousesas the lumberersofMainespend thewinter in in thewildernessTherewere thecampsand thehovels for the cattle hardly distinguishable except that the latter had nochimneyThesecampswereabout twenty feet longby fifteenwidebuilt oflogsmdashhemlock cedar spruce or yellow birchmdashone kind alone or all

togetherwith the bark on two or three large ones first one directly aboveanotherandnotched togetherat theends to theheightof threeor four feetthenofsmallerlogsrestingupontransverseonesattheendseachofthelastsuccessively shorter than the other to form the roof The chimney was anoblongsquareholeinthemiddlethreeorfourfeetindiameterwithafenceoflogsashighas theridgeThe intersticeswerefilledwithmossand theroofwas shingled with long and handsome splints of cedar or spruce or pineriftedwithasledgeandcleaverThefireplacethemostimportantplaceofallwasinshapeandsizelikethechimneyanddirectlyunderitdefinedbyalogfenceorfenderonthegroundandaheapofashesafootortwodeepwithinwithsolidbenchesofsplit logs runninground itHere thefireusuallymeltsthesnowanddriestherainbeforeitcandescendtoquenchitThefadedbedsofarbor-vitaelig leavesextendedunder theeavesoneitherhandTherewas theplace for thewater-pail pork-barrel andwash-basin and generally a dingypackofcardsleftonalogUsuallyagooddealofwhittlingwasexpendedonthelatchwhichwasmadeofwoodintheformofanirononeThesehousesaremadecomfortablebythehugefireswhichcanbeaffordednightanddayUsually thesceneryabout themisdrearandsavageenoughandtheloggerscamp is as completely in the woods as a fungus at the foot of a pine in aswampnooutlookbuttotheskyoverheadnomoreclearingthanismadebycuttingdownthetreesofwhichitisbuiltandthosewhicharenecessaryforfuelIfonlyitbewellshelteredandconvenienttohisworkandnearaspringhewastesnothoughtontheprospectTheyareveryproperforesthousesthestemsof the trees collected together andpileduparoundaman tokeepoutwindandrainmdashmadeoflivinggreenlogshangingwithmossandlichenandwith thecurls and fringesof theyellowbirchbark anddrippingwith resinfresh andmoist and redolent of swampy odorswith that sort of vigor andperennialness even about them that toadstools suggest The loggers fareconsists of tea molasses flour pork (sometimes beef) and beans A greatproportion of the beans raised inMassachusetts find their market here OnexpeditionsitisonlyhardbreadandporkoftenrawsliceuponslicewithteaorwaterasthecasemaybeThe primitive wood is always and everywhere damp and mossy so that ItraveledconstantlywiththeimpressionthatIwasinaswampandonlywhenitwasremarkedthatthisorthattractjudgingfromthequalityofthetimberonitwouldmakeaprofitableclearingwasIremindedthatifthesunwereletinitwouldmakeadryfieldlikethefewIhadseenatonceThebestshodforthemostparttravelwithwetfeetIfthegroundwassowetandspongyatthisthe dryest part of a dry season what must it be in the spring The woodshereaboutsaboundedinbeechandyellowbirchofwhichlastthereweresomevery large specimens also spruce cedar fir andhemlockbutwe sawonlythe stumpsof thewhitepinehere someof themofgreat size thesehaving

been already culled out being the only treemuch sought after even as lowdownas thisOnlya littlespruceandhemlockbesidehadbeen loggedhereThe Eastern wood which is sold for fuel in Massachusetts all comes frombelowBangorItwasthepinealonechieflythewhitepinethathadtemptedanybutthehuntertoprecedeusonthisrouteWaites farm thirteen miles from the Point is an extensive and elevatedclearingfromwhichwegotafineviewoftheriverripplingandgleamingfarbeneathusMycompanionshadformerlyhadagoodviewofKtaadnandtheothermountainsherebutto-dayitwassosmokythatwecouldseenothingofthem We could overlook an immense country of uninterrupted foreststretching away up the East Branch toward Canada on the north andnorthwest and toward the Aroostook valley on the northeast and imaginewhatwildlifewasstirringinitsmidstHerewasquiteafieldofcornforthisregionwhosepeculiardryscentweperceivedathirdofamileoffbeforewesawitEighteenmiles fromthePointbroughtus insightofMcCauslinsorUncleGeorges as hewas familiarly called bymy companions towhomhewaswellknownwhereweintendedtobreakourlongfastHishousewasinthemidstofanextensiveclearingorintervaleatthemouthoftheLittleSchoodicRiveron theoppositeornorthbankof thePenobscotSowecollectedonapointoftheshorethatwemightbeseenandfiredourgunasasignalwhichbroughtouthisdogs forthwith and thereafter theirmasterwho indue timetookusacrossinhisbatteauThisclearingwasboundedabruptlyonallsidesbuttheriverbythenakedstemsoftheforestasifyouweretocutonlyafewfeet square in the midst of a thousand acres of mowing and set down athimble thereinHehadawholeheavenandhorizon tohimselfand thesunseemed to be journeying over his clearing only the livelong day Here weconcluded to spend the night and wait for the Indians as there was nostopping-placesoconvenientaboveHehadseennoIndianspassandthisdidnotoftenhappenwithouthisknowledgeHethoughtthathisdogssometimesgavenoticeoftheapproachofIndianshalfanhourbeforetheyarrivedMcCauslinwasaKennebecmanofScotchdescentwhohadbeenawatermantwenty-two years and had driven on the lakes and headwaters of thePenobscotfiveorsixspringsinsuccessionbutwasnowsettledheretoraisesuppliesforthelumberersandforhimselfHeentertainedusadayortwowithtrueScotchhospitalityandwouldacceptnorecompenseforitAmanofadrywitandshrewdnessandageneralintelligencewhichIhadnotlookedforinthe backwoods In fact the deeper you penetrate into thewoods themoreintelligentandinonesenselesscountrifieddoyoufindtheinhabitantsforalways the pioneer has been a traveler and to some extent a man of theworld and as the distanceswithwhich he is familiar are greater so is his

informationmoregeneralandfarreachingthanthevillagersIfIweretolookforanarrowuninformedandcountrifiedmindasopposedtotheintelligenceandrefinementwhicharethoughttoemanatefromcitiesitwouldbeamongtherustyinhabitantsofanold-settledcountryonfarmsallrunoutandgonetoseedwithlife-everlastinginthetownsaboutBostonevenonthehigh-roadinConcordandnotinthebackwoodsofMaineSupperwasgotbeforeoureyes in theamplekitchenbyafirewhichwouldhaveroastedanoxmanywhole logs fourfeet longwereconsumedtoboilour tea-kettlemdashbirchorbeechormaple thesamesummerandwinterandthedishesweresoonsmokingonthetablelatethearm-chairagainstthewallfromwhichoneof thepartywasexpelledThearmsof thechairformedtheframe on which the table rested and when the round top was turned upagainstthewallitformedthebackofthechairandwasnomoreinthewaythanthewall itselfThiswenoticedwastheprevailingfashionintheseloghousesinordertoeconomizeinroomTherewerepiping-hotwheatencakestheflourhavingbeenbroughtuptheriverinbatteauxmdashnoIndianbreadfortheupperpartofMaineitwillberememberedisawheatcountrymdashandhameggs and potatoes andmilk and cheese the produce of the farm and alsoshad and salmon tea sweetened with molasses and sweet cakes incontradistinction to the hot cakes not sweetened the one white the otheryellowtowindupwithSuchwefoundwastheprevailingfareordinaryandextraordinary along this riverMountain cranberries (VacciniumVitis-Idaeliga)stewed and sweetened were the common dessert Everything here was inprofusion and the best of its kind Butter was in such plenty that it wascommonlyusedbeforeitwassaltedtogreasebootswithIn the night we were entertained by the sound of rain-drops on the cedarsplintswhichcovered theroofandawakedthenextmorningwithadroportwoinoureyes Ithadset inforastormandwemadeupourmindsnot toforsakesuchcomfortablequarterswiththisprospectbutwaitforIndiansandfair weather It rained and drizzled and gleamed by turns the livelong dayWhatwedidtherehowwekilledthetimewouldperhapsbeidletotellhowmanytimeswebutteredourbootsandhowoftenadrowsyonewasseen tosidleoff to thebedroomWhen itheldup I strolledupanddown thebankandgatheredtheharebellandcedarberrieswhichgrewthereorelsewetriedbyturnsthelong-handledaxeonthelogsbeforethedoorTheaxe-helvesherewere made to chop standing on the logmdasha primitive log of coursemdashandwerethereforenearlyafootlongerthanwithusOnewhilewewalkedoverthe farm and visited his well-filled barns withMcCauslin There were oneothermanandtwowomenonlyhereHekepthorsescowsoxenandsheepIthinkhe said thathewas the first tobringaplowanda cowso far andhemighthaveaddedthelastwithonlytwoexceptionsThepotato-rothadfoundhimout here too the previous year and got half or two thirds of his crop

though the seedwas of his own raising Oats grass and potatoeswere hisstaplesbutheraisedalsoafewcarrotsandturnipsandalittlecornforthehens for this was all that he dared risk for fear that it would not ripenMelons squashes sweet corn beans tomatoes andmany other vegetablescouldnotberipenedthereThe very few settlers along this stream were obviously tempted by thecheapnessofthelandmainlyWhenIaskedMcCauslinwhymoresettlersdidnotcomeinheansweredthatonereasonwastheycouldnotbuythelanditbelonged to individuals or companieswhowere afraid that theirwild landswouldbesettledandsoincorporatedintotownsandtheybetaxedforthembut to settlingon theStates land therewasno suchhindranceForhis ownparthewantednoneighborsmdashhedidntwish to seeany roadbyhishouseNeighborseventhebestwereatroubleandexpenseespeciallyonthescoreofcattleandfencesTheymightliveacrosstheriverperhapsbutnotonthesamesideThechickensherewereprotectedby thedogsAsMcCauslinsaidTheoldonetookitupfirstandshetaughtthepupandnowtheyhadgotitintotheirheadsthatitwouldntdotohaveanythingofthebirdkindonthepremisesAhawk hovering over was not allowed to alight but barked off by the dogscirclingunderneath and a pigeon or a yellow-hammer as they called thepigeonwoodpeckeronadead limborstumpwas instantlyexpelled Itwasthemainbusinessof their day andkept themconstantly comingandgoingOnewouldrushoutofthehouseontheleastalarmgivenbytheotherWhenitrainedhardestwereturnedtothehouseandtookdownatractfromthe shelfTherewas the Wandering Jew cheap edition and fineprint theCriminalCalendarandParishsGeographyandflashnovelstwoorthreeUnderthepressureofcircumstanceswereadalittleintheseWithsuchaidthe press is not so feeble an engine after all This housewhichwas a fairspecimen of those on this river was built of huge logs which peeped outeverywhere andwerechinkedwithclayandmoss It contained fouror fiveroomsTherewerenosawedboardsorshinglesorclapboardsaboutitandscarcelyanytoolbuttheaxehadbeenusedinitsconstructionThepartitionswere made of long clapboard-like splints of spruce or cedar turned to adelicatesalmon-colorbythesmokeTheroofandsideswerecoveredwiththesame instead of shingles and clapboards and some of a much thicker andlargersizewereusedforthefloorThesewereallsostraightandsmooththattheyansweredthepurposeadmirablyandacarelessobserverwouldnothavesuspectedthattheywerenotsawedandplanedThechimneyandhearthwereofvastsizeandmadeofstoneThebroomwasafewtwigsofarbor-vitaeligtiedtoastickandapolewassuspendedoverthehearthclosetotheceilingtodrystockingsandclothesonInoticedthatthefloorwasfullofsmalldingyholes

asifmadewithagimletbutwhichwereinfactmadebythespikesnearlyaninchlongwhichthelumbererswearintheirbootstopreventtheirslippingonwetlogsJustaboveMcCauslinsthereisarockyrapidwherelogsjaminthespringandmanydriversaretherecollectedwhofrequenthishouseforsuppliestheseweretheirtrackswhichIsawAtsundownMcCauslinpointedawayovertheforestacrosstherivertosignsoffairweatheramidthecloudsmdashsomeeveningrednessthereForeventherethe points of compass held and there was a quarter of the heavensappropriatedtosunriseandanothertosunsetThe next morning the weather proving fair enough for our purpose wepreparedtostartandtheIndianshavingfaileduspersuadedMcCauslinwhowasnotunwillingtorevisitthescenesofhisdrivingtoaccompanyusintheirstead intending to engage one other boatman on thewayA strip of cottonclothforatentacoupleofblanketswhichwouldsufficeforthewholepartyfifteenpoundsofhardbreadtenpoundsofclearporkandalittleteamadeup Uncle Georges pack The last three articles were calculated to beprovisionenoughforsixmenforaweekwithwhatwemightpickupAtea-kettle a frying-pan and an axe to be obtained at the last house wouldcompleteouroutfitWeweresoonoutofMcCauslinsclearingandintheevergreenwoodsagainTheobscuretrailmadebythetwosettlersabovewhicheventhewoodmanissometimes puzzled to discern ere long crossed a narrow open strip in thewoods overrun with weeds called the Burnt Land where a fire had ragedformerlystretchingnorthwardnineor tenmiles toMillinocketLakeAt theendof threemileswereachedShadPondorNoliseemackanexpansionoftheriverHodgetheAssistantStateGeologistwhopassedthroughthisonthe25th of June 1837 says We pushed our boat through an acre ormore ofbuck-beans which had taken root at the bottom and bloomed above thesurfaceinthegreatestprofusionandbeautyThomasFowlershouseisfourmiles from McCauslins on the shore of the pond at the mouth of theMillinocket River and eightmiles from the lake of the same name on thelatter stream This lake affords a more direct course to Ktaadn but wepreferred to follow the Penobscot and the Pamadumcook lakes FowlerwasjustcompletinganewloghutandwassawingoutawindowthroughthelogsnearlytwofeetthickwhenwearrivedHehadbeguntopaperhishousewithsprucebark turned insideoutwhichhadagoodeffect andwas inkeepingwiththecircumstancesInsteadofwaterwegothereadraughtofbeerwhichitwasallowedwouldbebetterclearandthinbutstrongandstringentasthecedarsapItwasasifwesuckedattheveryteatsofNaturespine-cladbosominthesepartsmdashthesapofallMillinocketbotanycommingledmdashthetopmostmost fantastic and spiciest sprays of the primitive wood and whatever

invigoratingandstringentgumoressenceitaffordedsteepedanddissolvedinitmdashalumberersdrinkwhichwouldacclimateandnaturalizeamanatoncemdashwhichwouldmakehimseegreenandifhesleptdreamthatheheardthewindsoughamongthepinesHerewasafifeprayingtobeplayedonthroughwhichwebreathedafewtunefulstrainsmdashbroughthithertotamewildbeastsAs we stood upon the pile of chips by the door fish hawks were sailingoverheadandhereoverShadPondmightdailybewitnessedthetyrannyofthebaldeagleoverthatbirdTompointedawayoverthelaketoabaldeaglesnestwhichwasplainlyvisiblemorethanamileoffonapinehighabovethesurroundingforestandwasfrequentedfromyeartoyearbythesamepairandheldsacredbyhimTherewerethesetwohousesonlytherehislowhutandtheeaglesairycart-loadoffagotsThomasFowlertoowaspersuadedtojoinusfortwomenwerenecessarytomanagethebatteauwhichwassoontobeourcarriageandthesemenneededtobecoolandskillfulforthenavigationofthePenobscotTomspackwassoonmadeforhehadnotfartolookforhiswatermans boots and a red flannel shirt This is the favorite color withlumbermenandredflannelisreputedtopossesssomemysteriousvirtuestobe most healthful and convenient in respect to perspiration In every gangtherewillbea largeproportionof redbirdsWe tookhereapoorand leakybatteauandbegantopoleuptheMillinockettwomilestotheelderFowlersinordertoavoidtheGrandFallsofthePenobscotintendingtoexchangeourbatteau there for a better The Millinocket is a small shallow and sandystreamfullofwhatItooktobelamprey-eelsorsuckersnestsandlinedwithmusquash-cabinsbut free from rapids according toFowler exceptingat itsoutletfromthelakeHewasatthistimeengagedincuttingthenativegrassmdashrush-grass andmeadow-clover as he called itmdashon themeadows and smalllowislandsof thisstreamWenoticedflattenedplaces in thegrassoneitherside where he said a moose had laid down the night before adding thattherewerethousandsinthesemeadowsOldFowlersontheMillinocketsixmilesfromMcCauslinsandtwenty-fourfrom thePoint is the lasthouseGibsonson theSowadnehunk is theonlyclearing above but that had proved a failure and was long since desertedFowleristheoldestinhabitantofthesewoodsHeformerlylivedafewmilesfrom here on the south side of theWest Branch where he built his housesixteenyearsago thefirsthousebuiltabove theFiveIslandsHereournewbatteauwastobecarriedoverthefirstportageoftwomilesroundtheGrandFalls of the Penobscot on a horse-sled made of saplings to jump thenumerousrocksinthewaybutwehadtowaitacoupleofhoursforthemtocatchthehorseswhichwerepasturedatadistanceamidthestumpsandhadwanderedstillfartheroffThelastofthesalmonforthisseasonhadjustbeencaughtandwerestillfreshinpicklefromwhichenoughwasextractedtofillouremptykettleandsograduateourintroductiontosimplerforestfareThe

week before they had lost nine sheep here out of their first flock by thewolvesThe surviving sheep came round the house and seemed frightenedwhichinducedthemtogoandlookfortherestwhentheyfoundsevendeadandlaceratedandtwostillaliveTheselasttheycarriedtothehouseandasMrsFowlersaidtheyweremerelyscratchedinthethroatandhadnomorevisiblewoundthanwouldbeproducedbytheprickofapinSheshearedoffthe wool from their throats andwashed them and put on some salve andturnedthemoutbut inafewmomentstheyweremissingandhadnotbeenfoundsinceInfacttheywereallpoisonedandthosethatwerefoundswelledup at once so that they saved neither skin nor wool This realized the oldfables of the wolves and the sheep and convinced me that that ancienthostility still existedVerily the shepherd-boydidnot need to sound a falsealarm this time There were steel traps by the door of various sizes forwolves otter and bears with large claws instead of teeth to catch in theirsinewsWolvesarefrequentlykilledwithpoisonedbaitAt length afterwe had dined here on the usual backwoods fare the horsesarrivedandwehauledourbatteauoutofthewaterandlashedittoitswickercarriageand throwing inourpackswalkedonbefore leaving theboatmenanddriverwhowasTomsbrothertomanagetheconcernTheroutewhichledthroughthewildpasturewherethesheepwerekilledwasinsomeplacestheroughestevertraveledbyhorsesoverrockyhillswherethesledbouncedandslidalonglikeavesselpitchinginastormandonemanwasasnecessarytostandatthesterntopreventtheboatfrombeingwreckedasahelmsmaninthe roughest sea The philosophy of our progress was something like thiswhentherunnersstruckarockthreeorfourfeethighthesledbouncedbackandupwardsatthesametimebutasthehorsesneverceasedpullingitcamedown on the top of the rock and so we got over This portage probablyfollowedthetrailofanancientIndiancarryroundthesefallsBytwooclockwewhohadwalkedonbeforereachedtheriverabovethefallsnotfarfromthe outlet ofQuakishLake andwaited for the batteau to comeupWehadbeenherebutashorttimewhenathunder-showerwasseencomingupfromthewestoverthestillinvisiblelakesandthatpleasantwildernesswhichweweresoeagertobecomeacquaintedwithandsoontheheavydropsbegantopatterontheleavesaroundusIhadjustselectedtheprostratetrunkofahugepinefiveorsixfeetindiameterandwascrawlingunderitwhenluckilytheboatarrivedItwouldhaveamusedashelteredmantowitnessthemannerinwhichitwasunlashedandwhirledoverwhilethefirstwaterspoutburstuponusItwasnosoonerinthehandsoftheeagercompanythanitwasabandonedtothefirstrevolutionaryimpulseandtogravity toadjust itandtheymighthavebeen seenall stooping to its shelter andwrigglingunder like somanyeels before itwas fairlydepositedon thegroundWhen allwereunderwepropped up the lee side and busied ourselves therewhittling thole-pins for

rowingwhenweshouldreach the lakesandmadethewoodsringbetweentheclapsofthunderwithsuchboat-songsaswecouldrememberThehorsesstood sleek and shining with the rain all drooping and crestfallen whiledelugeafterdelugewashedoverusbutthebottomofaboatmaybereliedonforatightroofAtlengthaftertwohoursdelayatthisplaceastreakoffairweatherappeared in thenorthwestwhitherourcoursenow laypromisingasereneeveningforourvoyageandthedriverreturnedwithhishorseswhilewemadehastetolaunchourboatandcommenceourvoyageingoodearnestThereweresixofus including the twoboatmenWithourpacksheapedupnear the bows and ourselves disposed as baggage to trim the boat withinstructionsnot tomoveincaseweshouldstrikearockmorethansomanybarrels of porkwe pushed out into the first rapid a slight specimen of thestreamwehad tonavigateWithUncleGeorge in the stern andTom in thebowseachusingasprucepoleabouttwelvefeetlongpointedwithironandpolingonthesamesideweshotuptherapidslikeasalmonthewaterrushingand roaring around so that only a practiced eye could distinguish a safecourse or tell whatwas deepwater andwhat rocks frequently grazing thelatterononeorbothsideswithahundredasnarrowescapesasevertheArgohadinpassingthroughtheSymplegadesIwhohadhadsomeexperienceinboatinghadneverexperiencedanyhalfsoexhilaratingbeforeWewereluckytohaveexchangedourIndianswhomwedidnotknowforthesemenwhotogetherwithTomsbrotherwerereputedthebestboatmenontheriverandwere at once indispensable pilots and pleasant companions The canoe issmallermoreeasilyupsetandsoonerwornoutandtheIndianissaidnottobesoskillfulinthemanagementofthebatteauHeisforthemostpartlesstobe reliedon andmoredisposed to sulks andwhimsTheutmost familiaritywith dead streams or with the ocean would not prepare a man for thispeculiarnavigationandthemostskillfulboatmananywhereelsewouldherebeobligedtotakeouthisboatandcarryroundahundredtimesstillwithgreatrisk as well as delay where the practiced batteau-man poles up withcomparative ease and safety The hardy voyageur pushes with incredibleperseveranceandsuccessquiteuptothefootofthefallsandthenonlycarriesroundsomeperpendicularledgeandlaunchesagaininThetorrentssmoothnessereitdashbelowtostrugglewiththeboilingrapidsaboveTheIndianssaythattheriveronceranbothwaysonehalfupandtheotherdownbutthatsincethewhitemancame it all runs down and now they must laboriously pole their canoesagainstthestreamandcarrythemovernumerousportagesInthesummerallstoresmdashthegrindstoneandtheplowofthepioneerflourporkandutensilsforthe explorermdashmustbe conveyedup the river inbatteaux andmanya cargoandmanyaboatmanislostinthesewatersInthewinterhoweverwhichis

very equable and long the ice is the great highway and the loggers teampenetrates toChesuncookLake and stillhigherup even twohundredmilesaboveBangor Imagine the solitary sled-track running farup into the snowyand evergreen wilderness hemmed in closely for a hundred miles by theforest and again stretching straight across the broad surfaces of concealedlakesWeweresooninthesmoothwateroftheQuakishLakeandtookourturnsatrowingandpaddlingacrossitItisasmallirregularbuthandsomelakeshutinonallsidesbytheforestandshowingnotracesofmanbutsomelowboominadistantcovereservedforspringuseThespruceandcedaronitsshoreshungwith gray lichens looked at a distance like the ghosts of treesDuckswere sailing here and there on its surface and a solitary loon like amorelivingwavemdashavitalspoton the lakessurfacemdashlaughedandfrolickedandshoweditsstraightlegforouramusementJoeMerryMountainappearedinthenorthwestasifitwerelookingdownonthislakeespeciallyandwehadourfirstbutapartialviewofKtaadnitssummitveiledincloudslikeadarkisthmusinthatquarterconnectingtheheavenswiththeearthAftertwomilesof smooth rowing across this lake we found ourselves in the river againwhich was a continuous rapid for one mile to the dam requiring all thestrengthandskillofourboatmentopoleupitThis dam is a quite important and expensivework for this countrywhithercattleandhorsescannotpenetrate in thesummer raising thewholeriver tenfeet and flooding as they said some sixty square miles by means of theinnumerable lakes with which the river connects It is a lofty and solidstructure with sloping piers some distance above made of frames of logsfilled with stones to break the ice Here every log pays toll as it passesthroughthesluicesWe filed into the rude loggers campat thisplace suchas IhavedescribedwithoutceremonyandthecookatthatmomentthesoleoccupantatoncesetaboutpreparingteaforhisvisitorsHisfireplacewhichtherainhadconvertedinto a mud-puddle was soon blazing again and we sat down on the logbenchesaroundittodryusOnthewell-flattenedandsomewhatfadedbedsofarbor-vitaelig leaveswhichstretchedoneitherhandunder theeavesbehinduslay an odd leaf of the Bible some genealogical chapter out of the OldTestament and half buried by the leaves we found Emersons Address onWest India Emancipationwhich had been left here formerly by one of ourcompanyandhadmadetwoconvertstotheLibertypartyhereasIwastoldalso an odd number of theWestminster Review for 1834 and a pamphletentitled History of the Erection of theMonument on the Grave ofMyronHollyThiswas the readableor readingmatter in a lumberers camp in theMainewoodsthirtymilesfromaroadwhichwouldbegivenuptothebears

in a fortnight These things were well thumbed and soiled This gang washeaded by one John Morrison a good specimen of a Yankee and wasnecessarily composed ofmen not bred to the business of dam-building butwho were jacks-at-all-trades handy with the axe and other simpleimplements andwell skilled inwoodandwatercraftWehadhotcakes forour supperevenherewhiteas snowballsbutwithoutbutter and thenever-failing sweet cakes with which we filled our pockets foreseeing that weshould not soonmeetwith the like again Such delicate puffballs seemed asingulardietforbackwoodsmenTherewasalsoteawithoutmilksweetenedwithmolassesAndsoexchangingawordwithJohnMorrisonandhisgangwhen we had returned to the shore and also exchanging our batteau for abetter stillwemadehaste to improve the little daylight that remainedThiscamp exactly twenty-ninemiles fromMattawamkeag Point by thewaywehad come and about one hundred from Bangor by the river was the lasthumanhabitationofanykindinthisdirectionBeyondtherewasnotrailandthe river and lakes by batteaux and canoes was considered the onlypracticablerouteWewereaboutthirtymilesbytheriverfromthesummitofKtaadn which was in sight though not more than twenty perhaps in astraightlineIt being about the full of the moon and a warm and pleasant evening wedecidedtorowfivemilesbymoonlight totheheadof theNorthTwinLakelest thewindshouldriseonthemorrowAfteronemileofriverorwhattheboatmen call thoroughfaremdashfor the river becomes at length only theconnecting link between the lakesmdashand some slight rapid which had beenmostlymadesmoothwaterbythedamweenteredtheNorthTwinLakejustafter sundown and steered across for the river thoroughfare four milesdistant This is a noble sheet of water where one may get the impressionwhichanewcountryandalakeofthewoodsarefittedtocreateTherewasthesmokeofno loghutnorcampofanykind togreetusstill lesswasanyloverofnatureormusingtravelerwatchingourbatteaufromthedistanthillsnoteventheIndianhunterwasthereforherarelyclimbsthembuthugstheriverlikeourselvesNofacewelcomedusbutthefinefantasticspraysoffreeandhappyevergreen treeswavingoneaboveanother in theirancienthomeAtfirsttheredcloudshungoverthewesternshoreasgorgeouslyasifoveracity and the lake lay open to the light with even a civilized aspect as ifexpectingtradeandcommerceandtownsandvillasWecoulddistinguishtheinlet to theSouthTwinwhich is said tobe the largerwhere the shorewasmisty and blue and it was worth the while to look thus through a narrowopeningacrosstheentireexpanseofaconcealedlaketoitsownyetmoredimanddistantshoreTheshoresrosegentlytorangesoflowhillscoveredwithforestsand though in fact themostvaluablewhite-pine timberevenaboutthis lake hadbeen culledout thiswouldneverhavebeen suspectedby the

voyagerTheimpressionwhichindeedcorrespondedwiththefactwasasifwewereuponahightable-landbetweentheStatesandCanadathenorthernsideofwhich isdrainedby theSt JohnandChaudiegravere the southernby thePenobscotandKennebecTherewasnoboldmountainousshoreaswemighthaveexpectedbutonlyisolatedhillsandmountainsrisinghereandtherefromtheplateauThecountryisanarchipelagooflakesmdashthelake-countryofNewEnglandTheirlevelsvarybutafewfeetandtheboatmenbyshortportagesorbynoneatallpasseasilyfromonetoanotherTheysaythatatveryhighwaterthePenobscotandtheKennebecflowintoeachotheroratanyratethatyoumay liewith your face in the one and your toes in the other Even thePenobscotandStJohnhavebeenconnectedbyacanalsothatthelumberoftheAllegashinsteadofgoingdowntheStJohncomesdownthePenobscotand the Indians tradition that the Penobscot once ran both ways for hisconvenienceisinonesensepartiallyrealizedto-dayNoneofourpartybutMcCauslinhadbeenabove this lakesowe trusted tohimtopilotusandwecouldnotbutconfesstheimportanceofapilotonthesewatersWhileitisriveryouwillnoteasilyforgetwhichwayisup-streambutwhenyouentera lake the river iscompletely lost andyouscan thedistantshores invain to findwhere it comes inAstranger is for the timeat leastlostandmustsetaboutavoyageofdiscoveryfirstofalltofindtheriverTofollowthewindingsoftheshorewhenthelakeistenmilesorevenmoreinlengthandofanirregularitywhichwillnotsoonbemappedisawearisomevoyageandwillspendhistimeandhisprovisionsTheytellastoryofagangofexperiencedwoodmensenttoalocationonthisstreamwhowerethuslostin thewilderness of lakes They cut theirway through thickets and carriedtheirbaggageandtheirboatsoverfromlaketolakesometimesseveralmilesThey carried intoMillinocket Lake which is on another stream and is tenmiles square and contains a hundred islands They explored its shoresthoroughlyand thencarried intoanother andanother and itwasaweekoftoilandanxietybefore they found thePenobscotRiveragainand then theirprovisionswereexhaustedandtheywereobligedtoreturnWhileUncleGeorgesteeredforasmallislandneartheheadofthelakenowjust visible like a speck on the water we rowed by turns swiftly over itssurfacesingingsuchboatsongsaswecouldrememberTheshoresseemedatanindefinitedistanceinthemoonlightOccasionallywepausedinoursingingandrestedonouroarswhilewelistenedtohearifthewolveshowledforthisis a common serenade and my companions affirmed that it was the mostdismal and unearthly of sounds butwe heard none this time Ifwe did nothearhoweverwedidlistennotwithoutareasonableexpectationthatatleastI have to tellmdashonly some utterly uncivilized big-throated owl hooted loudanddismallyinthedrearandboughywildernessplainlynotnervousabouthissolitarylifenorafraidtoheartheechoesofhisvoicethereWeremembered

alsothatpossiblymooseweresilentlywatchingusfromthedistantcovesorsomesurlybearortimidcaribouhadbeenstartledbyoursingingItwaswithnewemphasisthatwesangtheretheCanadianboatsongmdashRowbrothersrowthestreamrunsfastTherapidsarenearandthedaylightspastwhich describes precisely our own adventure and was inspired by theexperienceof a similar kindof lifemdashfor the rapidswere ever near and thedaylightlongpastthewoodsonshorelookeddimandmanyanUtawastidehereemptiedintothelakeWhyshouldweyetoursailunfurlThereisnotabreaththebluewavetocurlButwhenthewindblowsofftheshoreOhsweetlywellrestourwearyoarUtawastidethistremblingmoonShallseeusfloatoerthysurgessoonAt last we glided past the green isle which had been our landmark alljoininginthechorusasifbythewaterylinksofriversandoflakeswewereabout to float over unmeasured zones of earth bound on unimaginableadventuresmdashSaintofthisgreenislehearourprayersOhgrantuscoolheavensandfavoringairsAboutnineoclockwereachedtheriverandranourboatintoanaturalhavenbetween some rocks and drew her out on the sand This camping-groundMcCauslinhadbeenfamiliarwithinhislumberingdaysandhenowstruckitunerringlyin themoonlightandweheardthesoundof therillwhichwouldsupply uswith coolwater emptying into the lakeThe first businesswas tomakeafireanoperationwhichwasalittledelayedbythewetnessofthefuelandthegroundowingtotheheavyshowersoftheafternoonThefireisthemaincomfortofthecampwhetherinsummerorwinterandisaboutasampleatone seasonas at another It is aswell for cheerfulness as forwarmthanddrynessItformsonesideofthecamponebrightsideatanyrateSomeweredispersed to fetch in dead trees and boughs whileUncleGeorge felled thebirchesandbeecheswhichstoodconvenientandsoonwehadafiresometenfeet longby threeor four highwhich rapidlydried the sandbefore itThiswascalculated toburnallnightWenextproceeded topitchour tentwhichoperationwasperformedbystickingourtwospike-polesintothegroundinaslantingdirectionabouttenfeetapartforraftersandthendrawingourcottonclothoverthemandtyingitdownattheendsleavingitopeninfrontshed-

fashionButthiseveningthewindcarriedthesparksontothetentandburneditSowehastilydrewupthebatteaujustwithintheedgeofthewoodsbeforethefireandproppinguponesidethreeorfourfeethighspreadthetentontheground to lieon andwith the cornerof ablanket orwhatmoreor lesswecouldgettoputoveruslaydownwithourheadsandbodiesundertheboatandourfeetandlegsonthesandtowardthefireAtfirstwelayawaketalkingofour course and findingourselves in soconvenient aposture for studyingthe heavenswith themoon and stars shining in our faces our conversationnaturally turned upon astronomy and we recounted by turns the mostinterestingdiscoveries in that scienceBut at lengthwe composedourselvesseriouslytosleepItwasinterestingwhenawakenedatmidnighttowatchthegrotesqueandfiend-likeformsandmotionsofsomeoneofthepartywhonotbeingabletosleephadgotupsilentlytoarousethefireandaddfreshfuelforachangenowstealthilyluggingadeadtreefromoutthedarkandheavingitonnowstirringuptheemberswithhisforkortiptoeingabouttoobservethestarswatchedperchancebyhalftheprostratepartyinbreathlesssilencesomuchthemoreintensebecausetheywereawakewhileeachsupposedhisneighborsoundasleepThusarousedItoobroughtfreshfueltothefireandthenrambledalongthesandyshoreinthemoonlighthopingtomeetamoosecome down to drink or else a wolf The little rill tinkled the louder andpeopledall thewildernessformeandtheglassysmoothnessofthesleepinglake laving the shores of a newworldwith the dark fantastic rocks risinghereandtherefromitssurfacemadeascenenoteasilydescribedIthasleftsuchan impressionof sternyetgentlewildnessonmymemoryaswillnotsoonbeeffacedNotfarfrommidnightwewereoneafteranotherawakenedbyrainfallingonourextremitiesandaseachwasmadeawareofthefactbycoldorwethedrewalongsighandthendrewuphislegsuntilgraduallywehad all sidled round from lying at right angleswith theboat till our bodiesformed an acute angle with it and were wholly protected When next weawokethemoonandstarswereshiningagainandthereweresignsofdawnintheeastIhavebeenthusparticularinordertoconveysomeideaofanightinthewoodsWehadsoonlaunchedandloadedourboatandleavingourfireblazingwereoffagainbeforebreakfastThelumberersrarelytroublethemselvestoputouttheirfiressuchisthedampnessoftheprimitiveforestandthisisonecausenodoubtofthefrequentfiresinMaineofwhichwehearsomuchonsmokydaysinMassachusettsTheforestsareheldcheapafterthewhitepinehasbeenculled out and the explorers and hunters pray for rain only to clear theatmosphereofsmokeThewoodsweresowetto-dayhoweverthattherewasno danger of our fire spreading After poling up half a mile of river orthoroughfarewerowedamileacrossthefootofPamadumcookLakewhichisthenamegivenonthemaptothiswholechainoflakesasiftherewasbut

one though theyare ineach instancedistinctlyseparatedbya reachof theriverwithitsnarrowandrockychannelanditsrapidsThislakewhichisoneof the largest stretched northwest ten miles to hills and mountains in thedistanceMcCauslinpointedtosomedistantandasyetinaccessibleforestsofwhitepineonthesidesofamountaininthatdirectionTheJoeMerryLakeswhichlaybetweenusandMooseheadonthewestwererecentlyiftheyarenot still surrounded by some of the best timbered land in the State Byanother thoroughfare we passed into Deep Cove a part of the same lakewhichmakesuptwomilestowardthenortheastandrowingtwomilesacrossthisbyanothershortthoroughfareenteredAmbejijisLakeAt the entrance to a lakewe sometimes observedwhat is technically calledfencing-stuff or the unhewn timbers of which booms are formed eithersecuredtogetherinthewaterorlaidupontherocksandlashedtotreesforspringuseButitwasalwaysstartlingtodiscoversoplainatrailofcivilizedmanthereIrememberthatIwasstrangelyaffectedwhenwewerereturningbythesightofaring-boltwelldrilledintoarockandfastenedwithleadattheheadofthissolitaryAmbejijisLakeItwaseasytoseethatdrivinglogsmustbeanexcitingaswellasarduousanddangerous business All winter long the logger goes on piling up the treeswhichhehastrimmedandhauledinsomedryravineattheheadofastreamandtheninthespringhestandsonthebankandwhistlesforRainandThawreadytowringtheperspirationoutofhisshirttoswellthetidetillsuddenlywithawhoopandhalloofromhimshuttinghiseyesasiftobidfarewelltothe existing state of things a fair proportion of his winters work goesscramblingdown the country followedbyhis faithfuldogsThawandRainand Freshet andWind thewhole pack in full cry toward theOronoMillsEverylogismarkedwiththeownersnamecutinthesapwoodwithanaxeorboredwithanaugersodeepasnottobewornoffinthedrivingandyetnotsoastoinjurethetimberanditrequiresconsiderableingenuitytoinventnewand simple marks where there are so many owners They have quite analphabet of their own which only the practiced can read One of mycompanionsreadofffromhismemorandumbooksomemarksofhisownlogsamong which there were crosses belts crows feet girdles etc as Ymdashgirdlemdashcrowfoot and various other devices When the logs have run thegauntletofinnumerablerapidsandfallseachonitsownaccountwithmoreor less jamming and bruising those bearing various owners marks beingmixeduptogethermdashsinceallmusttakeadvantageofthesamefreshetmdashtheyare collected together at the heads of the lakes and surrounded by a boomfenceof floating logs toprevent their beingdispersedby thewind andarethustowedalltogetherlikeaflockofsheepacrossthelakewherethereisnocurrentbyawindlassorboom-headsuchaswesometimessawstandingonanislandorheadlandand ifcircumstancespermitwith theaidofsailsand

oarsSometimesnotwithstanding thelogsaredispersedovermanymilesoflakesurface ina fewhoursbywindsandfreshetsand thrownupondistantshoreswherethedrivercanpickuponlyoneortwoatatimeandreturnwiththemtothethoroughfareandbeforehegetshisflockwellthroughAmbejijisor Pamadumcook he makes many a wet and uncomfortable camp on theshore He must be able to navigate a log as if it were a canoe and be asindifferent to cold and wet as a muskrat He uses a few efficient toolsmdashalevercommonlyofrockmaplesixorsevenfeetlongwithastoutspikeinitstrongly ferruled on and a long spike-pole with a screw at the end of thespiketomakeitholdTheboysalongshorelearntowalkonfloatinglogsascityboyson sidewalksSometimes the logs are thrownupon rocks in suchpositions as to be irrecoverable but by another freshet as high or they jamtogether at rapids and falls and accumulate in vast piles which the drivermuststartattheriskofhislifeSuchisthelumberbusinesswhichdependsonmanyaccidentsastheearlyfreezingoftheriversthattheteamsmaygetupinseasonasufficientfreshetinthespringtofetchthelogsdownandmanyothersIquoteMichauxonLumberingontheKennebecthenthesourceofthebest white pine lumber carried to England The persons engaged in thisbranch of industry are generally emigrants from New Hampshire In thesummer they unite in small companies and traverse these vast solitudes inevery direction to ascertain the places in which the pines abound Aftercuttingthegrassandconvertingitintohayforthenourishmentofthecattletobeemployed in their labor they returnhome In thebeginningof thewintertheyentertheforestsagainestablishthemselvesinhutscoveredwiththebarkofthecanoe-birchorthearbor-vitaeligandthoughthecoldissointensethatthemercurysometimesremainsforseveralweeksfrom40degto50deg[Fahr]belowthe point of congelation they persevere with unabated courage in theirworkAccording toSpringer thecompanyconsistsofchoppers swampersmdashwhomakeroadsmdashbarkerandloader teamsterandcookWhenthe treesarefelledtheycutthemintologsfromfourteentoeighteenfeetlongandbymeansoftheircattlewhichtheyemploywithgreatdexteritydragthemtotheriverandafterstampingonthemamarkofpropertyrollthemonitsfrozenbosom At the breaking of the ice in the spring they float down with thecurrent The logs that are not drawn the first year adds Michaux areattacked by large worms which form holes about two lines in diameter ineverydirectionbut if strippedof their bark theywill remainuninjured forthirtyyearsAmbejijisthisquietSundaymorningstruckmeasthemostbeautifullakewehadseen It is said tobeoneof thedeepestWehad the fairestviewof JoeMerryDoubleTopandKtaadnfromitssurfaceThesummitofthelatterhadasingularlyflattable-landappearancelikeashorthighwaywhereademigodmightbeletdowntotakeaturnortwoinanafternoontosettlehisdinnerWe

rowedamileandahalf tonear theheadof thelakeandpushingthroughafieldof lily-pads landed to cookourbreakfast by the sideof a large rockknown to McCauslin Our breakfast consisted of tea with hard-bread andpork and fried salmonwhichwe atewith forks neatlywhittled from aldertwigswhichgrewthereoffstripsofbirch-barkforplatesTheteawasblackteawithoutmilktocolororsugartosweetenitandtwotindipperswereourteacupsThisbeverageisasindispensabletotheloggersastoanygossipingoldwomeninthelandandtheynodoubtderivegreatcomfortfromitHerewas the site of an old loggers camp remembered by McCauslin nowovergrown with weeds and bushes In the midst of a dense underwood wenoticedawholebrickonarockinasmallruncleanandredandsquareasinabrick-yardwhichhadbeenbroughtthusfarformerlyfortampingSomeofusafterwardregrettedthatwehadnotcarriedthisonwithustothetopofthemountaintobeleftthereforourmarkItwouldcertainlyhavebeenasimpleevidenceofcivilizedmanMcCauslinsaidthatlargewoodencrossesmadeofoak still sound were sometimes found standing in this wilderness whichwere set up by the first Catholic missionaries who came through to theKennebecInthenextninemileswhichweretheextentofourvoyageandwhichittookustherestofthedaytogetoverwerowedacrossseveralsmalllakespoledupnumerousrapidsandthoroughfaresandcarriedoverfourportagesIwillgive the names and distances for the benefit of future tourists First afterleavingAmbejijisLakewehadaquarterofamileofrapidstotheportageorcarry of ninety rods aroundAmbejijis Falls then amile and a half throughPassamagametLakewhich isnarrowand river-like to the fallsof thesamenamemdashAmbejijis stream coming in on the right then two miles throughKatepskonegan Lake to the portage of ninety rods around KatepskoneganFallswhichnamesignifiescarrying-placemdashPassamagametstreamcomingin on the left then three miles through Pockwockomus Lake a slightexpansionoftherivertotheportageoffortyrodsaroundthefallsofthesamenamemdashKatepskoneganstreamcominginontheleftthenthreequartersofamilethroughAboljacarmegusLakesimilartothelasttotheportageoffortyrodsaroundthefallsofthesamenamethenhalfamileofrapidwatertotheSowadnehunkdeadwaterandtheAboljacknagesicstreamThisisgenerallytheorderofnamesasyouascendtheriverFirstthelakeorif there is no expansion the deadwater then the falls then the streamemptyingintothelakeorriveraboveallofthesamenameFirstwecametoPassamagamet Lake then to Passamagamet Falls then to PassamagametStreamemptyinginThisorderandidentityofnamesitwillbeperceivedisquite philosophical since the deadwater or lake is always at least partiallyproducedbythestreamemptyinginaboveandthefirstfallbelowwhichistheoutletof that lakeandwhere that tributarywatermakes its firstplunge

alsonaturallybearsthesamenameAt theportagearoundAmbejijisFalls Iobservedapork-barrelon theshorewithaholeeightornineinchessquarecutinonesidewhichwassetagainstan upright rock but the bears without turning or upsetting the barrel hadgnawedaholeintheoppositesidewhichlookedexactlylikeanenormousrat-holebigenoughtoputtheirheadsinandatthebottomofthebarrelwerestillleftafewmangledandslabberedslicesofporkItisusualforthelumbererstoleave such supplies as they cannot conveniently carry along with them atcarriesorcampstowhichthenextcomersdonotscrupletohelpthemselvestheybeingthepropertycommonlynotofanindividualbutacompanywhocanaffordtodealliberallyIwilldescribeparticularlyhowwegotoversomeoftheseportagesandrapidsin order that the readermay get an idea of the boatmans lifeAtAmbejijisFalls for instance there was the roughest path imaginable cut through thewoodsatfirstuphillatanangleofnearlyforty-fivedegreesoverrocksandlogswithoutendThiswasthemanneroftheportageWefirstcarriedoverourbaggageanddepositeditontheshoreattheotherendthenreturningtothebatteauwe dragged it up the hill by the painter and onwardwith frequentpausesoverhalf theportageBut thiswasabunglingway andwould soonhave worn out the boat Commonly three men walk over with a batteauweighing from three to five or six hundred pounds on their heads andshoulders the tallest standing under themiddle of the boatwhich is turnedoverandoneateachendorelsetherearetwoatthebowsMorecannotwelltakeholdatonceButthisrequiressomepracticeaswellasstrengthandisinanycaseextremely laboriousandwearing to theconstitution to followWewereonthewholeratheraninvalidpartyandcouldrenderourboatmenbutlittleassistanceOurtwomenatlengthtookthebatteauupontheirshouldersandwhile twoofussteadiedit toprevent it fromrockingandwearingintotheir shouldersonwhich theyplaced theirhats foldedwalkedbravelyoverthe remaining distance with two or three pauses In the samemanner theyaccomplished theotherportagesWith this crushingweight theymust climbandstumblealongoverfallentreesandslipperyrocksofallsizeswherethosewho walked by the sides were continually brushed off such was thenarrownessofthepathButwewerefortunatenottohavetocutourpathinthe firstplaceBeforewe launchedourboatwe scraped thebottomsmoothagainwithourkniveswhereithadrubbedontherockstosavefrictionToavoidthedifficultiesoftheportageourmendeterminedtowarpupthePassamagamet Falls so while the rest walked over the portage with thebaggageIremainedinthebatteautoassistinwarpingupWeweresooninthemidstof the rapidswhichweremore swift and tumultuous thananywehad poled up and had turned to the side of the stream for the purpose of

warping when the boatmen who felt some pride in their skill and wereambitioustodosomethingmorethanusualformybenefitasIsurmisedtookonemoreviewoftherapidsorratherthefallsandinanswertoourquestionwhetherwecouldntgetuptheretheotheransweredthatheguessedhedtryitSowepushedagainintothemidstofthestreamandbegantostrugglewiththe current I sat in themiddle of theboat to trim itmoving slightly to therightor left as it grazed a rockWith anuncertain andwaveringmotionwewound and bolted our way up until the bow was actually raised two feetabove the stern at the steepest pitch and then when everything dependeduponhisexertionsthebowmanspolesnappedintwobutbeforehehadtimeto take the spare one which I reached him he had saved himself with thefragmentuponarockandsowegotupbyahairsbreadthandUncleGeorgeexclaimedthatthatwasneverdonebeforeandhehadnottrieditifhehadnotknownwhomhehadgotinthebownorheinthebowifhehadnotknownhim in the stern At this place there was a regular portage cut through thewoods and our boatmen had never known a batteau to ascend the fallsAsnearasIcanremembertherewasaperpendicularfallhereattheworstplaceofthewholePenobscotRivertwoorthreefeetatleastIcouldnotsufficientlyadmire the skill and coolness with which they performed this feat neverspeakingtoeachotherThebowmannotlookingbehindbutknowingexactlywhat theother isaboutworksas ifheworkedaloneNowsounding invainfor a bottom in fifteen feet ofwaterwhile the boat falls back several rodsheldstraightonlywiththegreatestskillandexertionorwhile thesternmanobstinately holds his ground like a turtle the bowman springs from side toside with wonderful suppleness and dexterity scanning the rapids and therockswith a thousand eyes and now having got a bite at lastwith a lustyshovewhichmakeshispolebendandquiverandthewholeboattremblehegainsafewfeetupontheriverToaddtothedangerthepolesareliableatanytimetobecaughtbetweentherocksandwrenchedoutoftheirhandsleavingthematthemercyoftherapidsmdashtherocksasitwerelyinginwait likesomanyalligators tocatchthemintheirteethandjerkthemfromyourhandsbeforeyouhavestolenaneffectualshoveagainsttheirpalatesThepoleissetclosetotheboatandtheprowismadetoovershootandjustturnthecornersof the rocks in the very teeth of the rapids Nothing but the length andlightness and the slight draught of the batteau enables them to make anyheadway The bowmanmust quickly choose his course there is no time todeliberate Frequently the boat is shoved between rocks where both sidestouchandthewatersoneitherhandareaperfectmaelstromHalfamileabovethistwoofustriedourhandsatpolingupaslightrapidandwe were just surmounting the last difficulty when an unlucky rockconfounded our calculations and while the batteau was sweeping roundirrecoverablyamidthewhirlpoolwewereobligedtoresignthepolestomore

skillfulhandsKatepskoneganisoneoftheshallowestandweediestofthelakesandlookedas if it might abound in pickerel The falls of the same name where westopped to dine are considerable and quite picturesqueHereUncleGeorgehadseen troutcaughtby thebarrelfulbut theywouldnot rise toourbaitatthishourHalfwayoverthiscarrythusfarintheMainewildernessonitswayto theProvinceswe noticed a large flamingOakHall handbill about twofeet longwrapped round the trunkofapine fromwhich thebarkhadbeenstrippedandtowhichitwasfastgluedbythepitchThisshouldberecordedamongtheadvantagesofthismodeofadvertisingthatsopossiblyeventhebears andwolvesmoose deer otter andbeaver not tomention the Indianmaylearnwheretheycanfitthemselvesaccordingtothelatestfashionoratleast recover some of their own lost garmentsWe christened this the OakHallcarryTheforenoonwasassereneandplacidonthiswildstreaminthewoodsasweare apt to imagine that Sunday in summer usually is inMassachusettsWewere occasionally startled by the scream of a bald eagle sailing over thestream in front of our batteau or of the fish hawks onwhom he levies hiscontributionsTherewereat intervalssmallmeadowsofafewacreson thesidesofthestreamwavingwithuncutgrasswhichattractedtheattentionofourboatmenwho regretted that theywerenotnearer to their clearings andcalculated how many stacks they might cut Two or three men sometimesspendthesummerbythemselvescuttingthegrassinthesemeadowstoselltotheloggersinthewintersinceitwillfetchahigherpriceonthespotthaninanymarketintheStateOnasmallislecoveredwiththiskindofrushorcut-grassonwhichwelandedtoconsultaboutourfurthercoursewenoticedtherecent track of a moose a large roundish hole in the soft wet groundevincingthegreatsizeandweightoftheanimalthatmadeitTheyarefondofthewaterandvisitalltheseislandmeadowsswimmingaseasilyfromislandtoislandastheymaketheirwaythroughthethicketsonlandNowandthenwepassedwhatMcCauslin called a pokelogan an Indian term forwhat thedriversmighthavereasontocallapoke-logs-inaninletthatleadsnowhereIfyou get in you have got to get out again the same way These and thefrequent runrounds which come into the river again would embarrass aninexperiencedvoyagernotalittleThecarryaroundPockwockomusFallswasexceedinglyroughandrockythebatteauhavingtobelifteddirectlyfromthewaterupfourorfivefeetontoarockandlaunchedagaindownasimilarbankTherocksonthisportagewerecovered with the dents made by the spikes in the lumberers boots whilestaggeringoverunder theweightof theirbatteauxandyoucouldseewherethesurfaceofsome large rocksonwhich theyhad rested theirbatteauxwas

wornquitesmoothwithuseAsitwaswehadcarriedoverbuthalftheusualportageat thisplaceforthisstageofthewaterandlaunchedourboatinthesmoothwavejustcurvingtothefallpreparedtostrugglewiththemostviolentrapidwehadtoencounterTherestofthepartywalkedovertheremainderoftheportagewhileI remainedwith theboatmentoassist inwarpingupOnehadtoholdtheboatwhiletheothersgotintopreventitfromgoingoverthefallsWhenwehadpusheduptherapidsasfaraspossiblekeepingclose totheshoreTomseizedthepainterandleapedoutuponarockjustvisibleinthewater but he lost his footing notwithstanding his spiked boots and wasinstantlyamid therapidsbutrecoveringhimselfbygoodluckandreachinganotherrockhepassedthepaintertomewhohadfollowedhimandtookhisplaceagaininthebowsLeapingfromrocktorockintheshoalwaterclosetotheshoreandnowandthengettingabitewiththeroperoundanuprightoneI held theboatwhile one reset his pole and then all three forced it upwardagainstanyrapidThiswaswarpingupWhenapartofuswalkedroundatsuchaplacewegenerally took theprecaution to takeout themostvaluablepartofthebaggageforfearofbeingswampedAs we poled up a swift rapid for half a mile above Aboljacarmegus Fallssomeof thepartyreadtheirownmarksonthehugelogswhichlaypileduphighanddryontherocksoneitherhandtherelicsprobablyofajamwhichhadtakenplacehereintheGreatFreshetinthespringManyofthesewouldhavetowaitforanothergreatfreshetperchanceiftheylastedsolongbeforetheycouldbegotoffItwassingularenoughtomeetwithpropertyof theirswhich they had never seen and where they had never been before thusdetainedbyfreshetsandrockswhenonitswaytothemMethinksthatmustbewhere all my property lies cast up on the rocks on some distant andunexploredstreamandwaitingforanunheard-offreshettofetchitdownOmake haste ye godswith yourwinds and rains and start the jambefore itrotsThe lasthalfmilecarriedus to theSowadnehunkDeadwatersocalledfromthe stream of the same name signifying running between mountains animportant tributarywhichcomes inamileaboveHerewedecided tocampabout twenty miles from the Dam at the mouth of Murch Brook and theAboljacknagesicmountainstreamsbroadofffromKtaadnandaboutadozenmilesfromitssummithavingmadefifteenmilesthisdayWe had been told byMcCauslin thatwe should here find trout enough sowhilesomepreparedthecamptherestfelltofishingSeizingthebirchpoleswhich some party of Indians or white hunters had left on the shore andbaitingourhookswithporkandwithtroutassoonastheywerecaughtwecast our lines into themouth of theAboljacknagesic a clear swift shallowstream which came in from Ktaadn Instantly a shoal of white chivin

(Leuciscus pulchellus) silvery roaches cousin-trout or what not large andsmall prowling thereabouts fell upon our bait and one after another werelandedamidst thebushesAnon their cousins the true trout took their turnandalternatelythespeckledtroutandthesilveryroachesswallowedthebaitasfastaswecouldthrowinandthefinestspecimensofboththatIhaveeverseen the largest one weighing three pounds were heaved upon the shorethoughatfirstinvaintowriggledownintothewateragainforwestoodintheboatbut soonwe learned to remedy this evil foronewhohad losthishookstoodonshoretocatchthemastheyfellinaperfectshoweraroundhimmdashsometimeswetandslippery full inhisfaceandbosomashisarmswereoutstretchedtoreceivethemWhileyetalivebeforetheirtintshadfadedtheyglistenedlikethefairestflowerstheproductofprimitiveriversandhecouldhardly trusthis sensesashestoodover them that these jewels shouldhaveswamawayinthatAboljacknagesicwaterforsolongsomanydarkagesmdashthesebrightfluviatileflowersseenofIndiansonlymadebeautifultheLordonlyknowswhytoswimthereIcouldunderstandbetterforthisthetruthofmythology thefablesofProteusandall thosebeautifulsea-monstersmdashhowallhistoryindeedputtoaterrestrialuseismerehistorybutputtoacelestialismythologyalwaysBut there is the roughvoiceofUncleGeorgewhocommandsat the frying-pan to sendoverwhatyouvegot and thenyoumaystay tillmorningThepork sizzles and cries for fish Luckily for the foolish race and thisparticularlyfoolishgenerationoftroutthenightshutdownatlastnotalittledeepenedbythedarksideofKtaadnwhichlikeapermanentshadowreareditselffromtheeasternbankLescarbotwritingin1609tellsusthattheSieurChampdoreacute who with one of the people of the Sieur deMonts ascendedsome fifty leagues up theSt John in 1608 found the fish so plenty quenmettantlachaudiegraveresurlefeuilsenavoientprissuffisammentpoureuxdisneravantqueleaufustchaudeTheirdescendantsherearenolessnumerousSoweaccompaniedTomintothewoodstocutcedartwigsforourbedWhilehewentaheadwith theaxeand loppedoff thesmallest twigsof the flat-leavedcedarthearbor-vitaeligofthegardenswegatheredthemupandreturnedwiththemtotheboatuntilitwasloadedOurbedwasmadewithasmuchcareandskillasaroofisshingledbeginningatthefootandlayingthetwigendofthecedarupwardweadvancedtotheheadacourseatatimethussuccessivelycoveringthestub-endsandproducingasoftandlevelbedForussixitwasabouttenfeetlongbysixinbreadthThistimewelayunderourtenthavingpitched itmoreprudentlywith reference to thewind and the flame and theusualhugefireblazedinfrontSupperwaseatenoffalargelogwhichsomefreshet had thrown upThis nightwe had a dish of arbor-vitaelig or cedar teawhichthelumberersometimesuseswhenotherherbsfailmdashAquartofarbor-vitaelig

TomakehimstrongandmightymdashbutIhadnowishtorepeattheexperimentIthadtoomedicinalatasteformypalate There was the skeleton of a moose here whose bones some IndianhuntershadpickedonthisveryspotInthenightIdreamedoftrout-fishingandwhenatlengthIawokeitseemeda fable that this painted fish swam there so nearmy couch and rose to ourhooks the lasteveningand Idoubted if Ihadnotdreamed it allSo IarosebeforedawntotestitstruthwhilemycompanionswerestillsleepingTherestood Ktaadn with distinct and cloudless outline in the moonlight and theripplingoftherapidswastheonlysoundtobreakthestillnessStandingontheshoreIoncemorecastmylineintothestreamandfoundthedreamtoberealandthefabletrueThespeckledtroutandsilveryroachlikeflying-fishspedswiftly through themoonlight air describingbright arcs on thedark sideofKtaadnuntilmoonlightnowfadingintodaylightbroughtsatietytomymindandthemindsofmycompanionswhohadjoinedmeBy six oclock having mounted our packs and a good blanketful of troutready dressed and swung up such baggage and provision as we wished toleave behind upon the tops of saplings to be out of the reach of bearswestarted for the summit of the mountain distant as Uncle George said theboatmencalled itaboutfourmilesbutasI judgedandas itprovednearerfourteenHehadneverbeenanynearerthemountainthanthisandtherewasnot the slightest trace of man to guide us farther in this direction At firstpushing a few rods up the Aboljacknagesic or open-land stream wefastened our batteau to a tree and traveled up the north side through burntlands nowpartially overgrownwith young aspens and other shrubbery butsoonrecrossingthisstreamwhereitwasaboutfiftyorsixtyfeetwideuponajam of logs and rocksmdashand you could cross it by this means almostanywheremdashwe struck at once for the highest peak over amile ormore ofcomparativelyopenlandstillverygraduallyascendingthewhileHereitfelltomy lot as theoldestmountain-climber to take the leadSo scanning thewoodysideofthemountainwhichlaystillatanindefinitedistancestretchedout some seven or eight miles in length before us we determined to steerdirectlyforthebaseofthehighestpeakleavingalargeslidebywhichasIhave since learned some of our predecessors ascended on our left Thiscoursewouldleadusparallel toadarkseamintheforestwhichmarkedthebedof a torrent andover a slight spurwhichextended southward from themainmountain fromwhose bare summitwe could get an outlook over thecountryandclimbdirectlyup thepeakwhichwould thenbecloseathandSeen from thispoint abare ridgeat theextremityof theopen landKtaadnpresented a different aspect from any mountain I have seen there being agreater proportion of naked rock rising abruptly from the forest and we

looked up at this blue barrier as if it were some fragment of a wall whichanciently bounded the earth in that direction Setting the compass for anortheast coursewhichwas the bearing of the southern base of the highestpeakweweresoonburiedinthewoodsWesoonbegantomeetwith tracesofbearsandmooseandthoseofrabbitswereeverywherevisibleThe tracksofmoosemoreor less recent to speakliterally covered every square rod on the sides of the mountain and theseanimalsareprobablymorenumeroustherenowthaneverbeforebeingdriveninto this wilderness from all sides by the settlements The track of a full-grownmooseis likethatofacoworlargerandoftheyounglikethatofacalfSometimeswe foundourselves traveling in faintpathswhich theyhadmade like cow-paths in the woods only far more indistinct being ratheropenings affording imperfect vistas through the dense underwood thantroddenpathsandeverywherethetwigshadbeenbrowsedbythemclippedassmoothlyasifbyaknifeThebarkoftreeswasstrippedupbythemtotheheightofeightorninefeetinlongnarrowstripsaninchwidestillshowingthedistinctmarksoftheirteethWeexpectednothinglessthantomeetaherdof themeverymoment andourNimrodheldhis shooting-iron in readinessbutwedidnotgooutofourwaytolookforthemandthoughnumeroustheyaresowarythattheunskillfulhuntermightrangetheforestalongtimebeforehe could get sight of one They are sometimes dangerous to encounter andwillnotturnoutforthehunterbutfuriouslyrushuponhimandtramplehimtodeathunlessheisluckyenoughtoavoidthembydodgingroundatreeThelargest are nearly as large as a horse and weigh sometimes one thousandpoundsanditissaidthattheycanstepoverafive-footgateintheirordinarywalkTheyaredescribedasexceedinglyawkward-lookinganimalswiththeirlong legs and short bodiesmaking a ludicrous figurewhen in full run butmakinggreatheadwayneverthelessItseemedamysterytoushowtheycouldthread these woods which it required all our suppleness to accomplishmdashclimbingstoopingandwindingalternatelyTheyaresaidtodroptheirlongandbranchinghornswhichusuallyspreadfiveorsixfeetontheirbacksandmaketheirwayeasilybytheweightoftheirbodiesOurboatmensaidbutIknownotwithhowmuchtruththattheirhornsareapttobegnawedawaybyverminwhiletheysleepTheirfleshwhichismorelikebeefthanvenisoniscommoninBangormarketWehadproceededonthussevenoreightmilestillaboutnoonwithfrequentpauses to refresh the weary ones crossing a considerablemountain streamwhichweconjecturedtobeMurchBrookatwhosemouthwehadcampedallthe time in woods without having once seen the summit and rising verygraduallywhentheboatmenbeginningtodespairalittleandfearingthatwewere leaving themountainononesideofus for theyhadnotentirefaith inthecompassMcCauslinclimbedatreefromthetopofwhichhecouldseethe

peakwhenitappearedthatwehadnotswervedfromarightlinethecompassdownbelowstill rangingwithhisarmwhichpointed to thesummitBy thesideofacoolmountainrillamidthewoodswherethewaterbegantopartakeof the purity and transparency of the air we stopped to cook some of ourfishes which we had brought thus far in order to save our hard-bread andpork intheuseofwhichwehadputourselvesonshortallowanceWesoonhadafireblazingandstoodarounditunderthedampandsombreforestoffirsandbircheseachwithasharpenedstickthreeorfourfeetinlengthuponwhichhehadspittedhistroutorroachpreviouslywellgashedandsaltedoursticksradiatinglikethespokesofawheelfromonecentreandeachcrowdinghisparticularfishintothemostdesirableexposurenotwiththetruestregardalways to his neighbors rights Thus we regaled ourselves drinkingmeanwhile at the spring till one mans pack at least was considerablylightenedwhenweagaintookupourlineofmarchAt lengthwe reached an elevation sufficiently bare to afford a view of thesummitstilldistantandbluealmostasifretreatingfromusAtorrentwhichproved to be the same we had crossed was seen tumbling down in frontliterallyfromoutofthecloudsButthisglimpseatourwhereaboutswassoonlost andwewere buried in thewoods againThewoodwas chiefly yellowbirch spruce firmountain-ash or round-wood as theMainepeople call itand moose-wood It was the worst kind of traveling sometimes like thedensest scrub oak patches with us The cornel or bunch-berries were veryabundant as well as Solomons-seal and moose-berries Blueberries weredistributedalongourwholerouteandinoneplacethebushesweredroopingwiththeweightofthefruitstillasfreshaseverItwasthe7thofSeptemberSuch patches afforded a grateful repast and served to bait the tired partyforwardWhenanylaggedbehindthecryofblueberrieswasmosteffectualto bring them up Even at this elevation we passed through a moose-yardformedbya largeflat rock fouror fiverodssquarewhere they treaddownthesnowinwinterAtlengthfearingthatifweheldthedirectcoursetothesummitweshouldnotfindanywaternearourcamping-groundwegraduallyswerved to thewest tillat fouroclockwestruckagain the torrentwhichIhavementionedandhereinviewofthesummitthewearypartydecidedtocampthatnightWhile my companions were seeking a suitable spot for this purpose IimprovedthelittledaylightthatwasleftinclimbingthemountainaloneWewere in a deep and narrow ravine sloping up to the clouds at an angle ofnearlyforty-fivedegreesandhemmedinbywallsofrockwhichwereatfirstcoveredwithlowtreesthenwithimpenetrablethicketsofscraggybirchesandsprucetreesandwithmossbutatlastbareofallvegetationbutlichensandalmost continually draped in clouds Following up the course of the torrentwhichoccupied thismdashand Imean to laysomeemphasison thiswordupmdash

pullingmyselfupbythesideofperpendicularfallsoftwentyorthirtyfeetbytherootsoffirsandbirchesandthenperhapswalkingalevelrodortwointhethinstreamfor it tookupthewholeroadascendingbyhugestepsas itwere a giants stairway downwhich a river flowed I had soon cleared thetreesandpausedonthesuccessiveshelvestolookbackoverthecountryThetorrentwasfromfifteentothirtyfeetwidewithoutatributaryandseeminglynotdiminishinginbreadthasIadvancedbutstillitcamerushingandroaringdownwithacopioustideoverandamidstmassesofbarerockfromtheverycloudsasthoughawaterspouthadjustburstoverthemountainLeavingthisat lastIbegantoworkmywayscarcelylessarduousthanSatansancientlythroughChaosupthenearestthoughnotthehighestpeakAtfirstscramblingonallfoursoverthetopsofancientblacksprucetrees(Abiesnigra)oldastheflood fromtwoto tenor twelvefeet inheight their topsflatandspreadingandtheirfoliageblueandnippedwithcoldasifforcenturiestheyhadceasedgrowingupwardagainstthebleakskythesolidcoldIwalkedsomegoodrodserect upon the tops of these trees which were overgrown with moss andmountaincranberries Itseemedthat in thecourseof timetheyhadfilleduptheintervalsbetweenthehugerocksandthecoldwindhaduniformlyleveledall over Here the principle of vegetation was hard put to it There wasapparently a belt of this kind running quite round the mountain thoughperhaps nowhere so remarkable as here Once slumping through I lookeddowntenfeetintoadarkandcavernousregionandsawthestemofaspruceonwhosetopIstoodasonamassofcoarsebasket-workfullynineinchesindiameteratthegroundTheseholeswerebearsdensandthebearswereeventhenathomeThiswasthesortofgardenImademywayoverforaneighthofamileattheriskitistrueoftreadingonsomeoftheplantsnotseeinganypath through itmdashcertainly the most treacherous and porous country I evertraveledNighfounderedonhefaresTreadingthecrudeconsistencehalfonfootHalfflyingButnothingcouldexceedthetoughnessofthetwigsmdashnotonesnappedundermyweight for they had slowly grownHaving slumped scrambled rolledbounced and walked by turns over this scraggy country I arrived upon aside-hill or rather side-mountain where rocks gray silent rocks were theflocksandherdsthatpasturedchewingarockycudatsunsetTheylookedatmewithhardgrayeyeswithoutableatoralowThisbroughtmetotheskirtofacloudandboundedmywalkthatnightButIhadalreadyseenthatMainecountrywhenIturnedaboutwavingflowingripplingdownbelowWhen I returned tomycompanions theyhadselectedacamping-groundonthe torrents edge andwere restingon theground onewason the sick list

rolledinablanketonadampshelfofrockItwasasavageanddrearysceneryenoughsowildlyroughthattheylookedlongtofindalevelandopenspacefor the tentWe couldnotwell camphigher forwant of fuel and the treeshere seemed so evergreen and sappy thatwe almost doubted if theywouldacknowledgetheinfluenceoffirebutfireprevailedat lastandblazedheretoolikeagoodcitizenoftheworldEvenatthisheightwemetwithfrequenttracesofmooseaswellasofbearsAsherewasnocedarwemadeourbedofcoarser feathered spruce but at any rate the featherswereplucked from thelive tree ItwasperhapsevenamoregrandanddesolateplaceforanightslodgingthanthesummitwouldhavebeenbeingintheneighborhoodofthosewildtreesandofthetorrentSomemoreaeumlrialandfiner-spiritedwindsrushedand roared through the ravineallnight from time to timearousingour fireanddispersingtheembersaboutItwasasifwelayintheverynestofayoungwhirlwindAtmidnightoneofmybed-fellowsbeingstartled inhisdreamsby the sudden blazing up to its top of a fir treewhose green boughsweredriedbytheheatsprangupwithacryfromhisbed thinkingtheworldonfireanddrewthewholecampafterhimInthemorningafterwhettingourappetiteonsomerawporkawaferofhard-breadandadipperofcondensedcloudorwaterspoutwealltogetherbegantomakeourwayupthefallswhichIhavedescribedthistimechoosingtherighthand or highest peakwhichwas not the one I had approached beforeButsoonmycompanionswerelosttomysightbehindthemountainridgeinmyrearwhich still seemedever retreatingbeforemeand I climbedaloneoverhugerockslooselypoisedamileormorestilledgingtowardthecloudsforthoughthedaywasclearelsewhere thesummitwasconcealedbymistThemountain seemed a vast aggregation of loose rocks as if some time it hadrainedrocksandtheylayastheyfellonthemountainsidesnowherefairlyatrestbut leaningoneachotherall rockingstoneswithcavitiesbetweenbutscarcelyanysoilorsmoothershelfTheywere therawmaterialsofaplanetdropped from an unseen quarry which the vast chemistry of nature wouldanonworkuporworkdownintothesmilingandverdantplainsandvalleysofearthThiswasanundoneextremityoftheglobeasinligniteweseecoalintheprocessofformationAtlengthIenteredwithintheskirtsofthecloudwhichseemedforeverdriftingoverthesummitandyetwouldneverbegonebutwasgeneratedoutofthatpure air as fast as it flowed away andwhen a quarter of amile farther Ireachedthesummitoftheridgewhichthosewhohaveseeninclearerweathersayisaboutfivemileslongandcontainsathousandacresoftable-landIwasdeepwithinthehostileranksofcloudsandallobjectswereobscuredbythemNowthewindwouldblowmeoutayardofclearsunlightwherein I stoodthen a gray dawning light was all it could accomplish the cloud-line everrising and falling with the winds intensity Sometimes it seemed as if the

summitwouldbeclearedinafewmomentsandsmileinsunshinebutwhatwasgainedononesidewas lostonanother Itwas likesitting inachimneyandwaiting for the smoke to blow away Itwas in fact a cloud-factorymdashthesewerethecloud-worksandthewindturnedthemoffdonefromthecoolbare rocksOccasionallywhen thewindycolumnsbroke in tome I caughtsight of a dark damp crag to the right or left themist driving ceaselesslybetween it and me It reminded me of the creations of the old epic anddramatic poets of Atlas Vulcan the Cyclops and Prometheus Such wasCaucasusandtherockwherePrometheuswasboundAEligschylushadnodoubtvisited such scenery as this It was vast Titanic and such as man neverinhabits Some part of the beholder even some vital part seems to escapethroughtheloosegratingofhisribsasheascendsHeismorelonethanyoucanimagineThereislessofsubstantialthoughtandfairunderstandinginhimthan in the plainswheremen inhabitHis reason is dispersed and shadowymorethinandsubtileliketheairVastTitanicinhumanNaturehasgothimatdisadvantagecaughthimaloneandpilfershimofsomeofhisdivinefacultyShe does not smile on him as in the plains She seems to say sternlyWhycameyeherebeforeyourtimeThisgroundisnotpreparedforyouIsitnotenoughthatIsmileinthevalleysIhavenevermadethissoilforthyfeetthisair for thybreathing these rocks for thyneighbors I cannotpitynor fondletheeherebutforeverrelentlesslydrivetheehencetowhereIamkindWhyseekmewhereIhavenotcalledtheeandthencomplainbecauseyoufindmebut a stepmother Shouldst thou freeze or starve or shudder thy life awayhereisnoshrinenoraltarnoranyaccesstomyearChaosandancientNightIcomenospyWithpurposetoexploreortodisturbThesecretsofyourrealmbutasmywayLiesthroughyourspaciousempireuptolightThetopsofmountainsareamongtheunfinishedpartsoftheglobewhitheritisaslight insult to thegods toclimbandpry into theirsecretsand try theireffect on our humanityOnly daring and insolentmen perchance go thereSimpleracesassavagesdonotclimbmountainsmdashtheirtopsaresacredandmysterious tracts never visited by them Pomola is always angrywith thosewhoclimbtothesummitofKtaadnAccordingtoJacksonwhoinhiscapacityofgeologicalsurveyoroftheStatehasaccuratelymeasureditthealtitudeofKtaadnis5300feetoralittlemorethanonemileabovetheleveloftheseaandheaddsItisthenevidentlythehighestpointintheStateofMaineandisthemostabruptgranitemountaininNewEnglandThepeculiarities of that spacious table-landonwhich Iwas

standing as well as the remarkable semicircular precipice or basin on theeasternsidewereallconcealedbythemistIhadbroughtmywholepacktothe topnotknowingbutIshouldhavetomakemydescent to theriverandpossiblytothesettledportionoftheStatealoneandbysomeotherrouteandwishing to have a complete outfit with me But at length fearing that mycompanionswould be anxious to reach the river before night and knowingthat the clouds might rest on the mountain for days I was compelled todescendOccasionallyasIcamedownthewindwouldblowmeavistaopenthroughwhichIcouldseethecountryeastwardboundlessforestsandlakesand streams gleaming in the sun some of them emptying into the EastBranchTherewere also newmountains in sight in that directionNowandthensomesmallbirdofthesparrowfamilywouldflitawaybeforemeunabletocommanditscourselikeafragmentofthegrayrockblownoffbythewindI found my companions where I had left them on the side of the peakgathering the mountain cranberries which filled every crevice between therockstogetherwithblueberrieswhichhadaspicierflavorthehigheruptheygrew but were not the less agreeable to our palates When the country issettledandroadsaremade thesecranberrieswillperhapsbecomeanarticleofcommerceFrom thiselevation juston the skirtsof thecloudswecouldoverlook thecountrywestandsouth forahundredmilesThere itwas theState ofMaine which we had seen on the map but not much like thatmdashimmeasurable forest for the sun to shineon that eastern stuffwehearof inMassachusettsNoclearingnohouseItdidnot lookasifasolitarytravelerhadcutsomuchasawalking-stickthereCountlesslakesmdashMooseheadinthesouthwest fortymiles longby tenwide likeagleamingsilverplatterat theendofthetableChesuncookeighteenlongbythreewidewithoutanislandMillinocket on the south with its hundred islands and a hundred otherswithout a name and mountains also whose names for the most part areknownonlytotheIndiansTheforestlookedlikeafirmgrassswardandtheeffectoftheselakesinitsmidsthasbeenwellcomparedbyonewhohassincevisitedthissamespot tothatofamirrorbrokenintoathousandfragmentsandwildlyscatteredoverthegrassreflectingthefullblazeofthesunItwasa largefarmforsomebodywhenclearedAccordingto theGazetteerwhichwas printed before the boundary questionwas settled this single PenobscotCountyinwhichwewerewaslargerthanthewholeStateofVermontwithitsfourteencountiesandthiswasonlyapartofthewildlandsofMaineWeareconcernednowhoweveraboutnaturalnotpoliticallimitsWewereabouteightymilesasthebirdfliesfromBangororonehundredandfifteenaswehad ridden andwalked and paddledWehad to console ourselveswith thereflectionthatthisviewwasprobablyasgoodasthatfromthepeakasfarasit went and what were a mountain without its attendant clouds andmistsLikeourselvesneitherBaileynorJacksonhadobtainedaclearviewfromthe

summitSetting out on our return to the river still at an early hour in the day wedecided to followthecourseof the torrentwhichwesupposed tobeMurchBrookaslongasitwouldnotleadustoofaroutofourwayWethustraveledaboutfourmilesintheverytorrentitselfcontinuallycrossingandrecrossingitleapingfromrocktorockandjumpingwiththestreamdownfallsofsevenoreightfeetorsometimesslidingdownonourbacksinathinsheetofwaterThis ravine had been the scene of an extraordinary freshet in the springapparentlyaccompaniedbyaslidefromthemountainItmusthavebeenfilledwithastreamofstonesandwateratleasttwentyfeetabovethepresentlevelof the torrentFora rodor twooneither sideof its channel the treeswerebarked and splintered up to their tops the birches bent over twisted andsometimesfinelysplitlikeastable-broomsomeafootindiametersnappedoff andwhole clumps of trees bent overwith theweight of rocks piled onthem In one placewe noticed a rock two or three feet in diameter lodgednearly twenty feethigh in thecrotchof a treeFor thewhole fourmileswesaw but one rill emptying in and the volume of water did not seem to beincreased from the first We traveled thus very rapidly with a downwardimpetusandgrewremarkablyexpertatleapingfromrocktorockforleapwemustandleapwedidwhethertherewasanyrockattherightdistanceornotItwas apleasantpicturewhen the foremost turnedabout and lookedup thewindingravinewalledinwithrocksandthegreenforesttoseeatintervalsofarodortwoared-shirtedorgreen-jacketedmountaineeragainstthewhitetorrentleapingdownthechannelwithhispackonhisbackorpausinguponaconvenient rock in themidst of the torrent tomend a rent inhis clothes orunstrapthedipperathisbelt totakeadraughtofthewaterAtoneplacewewerestartledbyseeingona littlesandyshelfby thesideof thestream thefreshprintofamansfootandforamomentrealizedhowRobinsonCrusoefeltinasimilarcasebutatlastwerememberedthatwehadstruckthisstreamonourwayupthoughwecouldnothavetoldwhereandonehaddescendedintotheravineforadrinkThecoolairaboveandthecontinualbathingofourbodiesinmountainwateralternatefootsitzdoucheandplungebathsmadethiswalkexceedinglyrefreshingandwehadtraveledonlyamileortwoafterleaving the torrent before every thread of our clotheswas as dry as usualowingperhapstoapeculiarqualityintheatmosphereAfter leaving the torrent being indoubt aboutour courseTom threwdownhispackatthefootoftheloftiestsprucetreeathandandshinnedupthebaretrunksometwentyfeetandthenclimbedthroughthegreentowerlosttooursightuntilheheld the topmost spray inhishandMcCauslin inhisyoungerdays had marched through the wilderness with a body of troops underGeneralSomebody andwithoneothermandid all the scouting and spyingserviceTheGeneralswordwasThrowdownthetopofthattreeandthere

wasnotree in theMainewoodssohighthat itdidnot lose its top insuchacaseIhaveheardastoryoftwomenbeinglostonceinthesewoodsnearertothesettlementsthanthiswhoclimbedtheloftiestpinetheycouldfindsomesixfeetindiameteratthegroundfromwhosetoptheydiscoveredasolitaryclearinganditssmokeWhenatthisheightsometwohundredfeetfromthegroundoneofthembecamedizzyandfaintedinhiscompanionsarmsandthe latter had to accomplish the descent with him alternately fainting andrevivingasbesthecouldToTomwecried Whereawaydoes thesummitbearwheretheburntlandsThelasthecouldonlyconjecturehedescriedhowever a littlemeadowandpond lyingprobably inour coursewhichweconcluded to steer for On reaching this secluded meadow we found freshtracksofmooseontheshoreofthepondandthewaterwasstillunsettledasiftheyhad fledbeforeusA little farther inadense thicketwe seemed tobestillontheirtrailItwasasmallmeadowofafewacresonthemountain-sideconcealedbytheforestandperhapsneverseenbyawhitemanbeforewhereonewould think that themoosemight browse and bathe and rest in peacePursuing this course we soon reached the open land which went slopingdownsomemilestowardthePenobscotPerhaps I most fully realized that this was primeval untamed and foreveruntamableNatureorwhateverelsemencallitwhilecomingdownthispartof the mountainWe were passing over Burnt Lands burnt by lightningperchance thoughtheyshowednorecentmarksoffirehardlysomuchasacharredstumpbutlookedratherlikeanaturalpastureforthemooseanddeerexceedinglywildanddesolatewithoccasionalstripsoftimbercrossingthemand low poplars springing up and patches of blueberries here and there Ifoundmyself traversing them familiarly like some pasture run towaste orpartially reclaimedbymanbutwhen I reflectedwhatmanwhatbrotherorsisterorkinsmanofourracemadeitandclaimeditIexpectedtheproprietorto rise up and dispute my passage It is difficult to conceive of a regionuninhabited by man We habitually presume his presence and influenceeverywhereAndyetwehavenotseenpureNatureunlesswehaveseenherthus vast and drear and inhuman though in themidst of citiesNaturewasheresomethingsavageandawful thoughbeautifulI lookedwithaweat thegroundItrodontoseewhatthePowershadmadetheretheformandfashionandmaterialoftheirworkThiswasthatEarthofwhichwehaveheardmadeoutofChaosandOldNightHerewasnomansgardenbuttheunhandseledglobe It was not lawn nor pasture nor mead nor woodland nor lea norarablenorwastelandItwasthefreshandnaturalsurfaceoftheplanetEarthas it wasmade forever and evermdashto be the dwelling of man we saymdashsoNaturemadeitandmanmayuseit ifhecanManwasnot tobeassociatedwithitItwasMattervastterrificmdashnothisMotherEarththatwehaveheardof not for him to tread on or be buried inmdashno itwere being too familiar

eventolethisboneslietheremdashthehomethisofNecessityandFateTherewasclearlyfeltthepresenceofaforcenotboundtobekindtomanItwasaplaceforheathenismandsuperstitiousritesmdashtobeinhabitedbymennearerofkintotherocksandtowildanimalsthanweWewalkedoveritwithacertainawe stopping from time to time to pick the blueberrieswhich grew thereandhada smart and spicy tastePerchancewhereourwildpines stand andleaves lie on their forest floor in Concord there were once reapers andhusbandmenplantedgrainbutherenoteventhesurfacehadbeenscarredbymanbutitwasaspecimenofwhatGodsawfittomakethisworldWhatisittobe admitted to amuseum to see amyriadof particular things comparedwithbeingshownsomestarssurfacesomehardmatterinitshomeIstandinaweofmybody thismatter towhich Iamboundhasbecomesostrange tomeIfearnotspiritsghostsofwhichIamonemdashthatmybodymightmdashbutIfearbodiesItrembletomeetthemWhatisthisTitanthathaspossessionofmeTalkofmysteriesThinkofourlifeinnaturemdashdailytobeshownmattertocomeincontactwithitmdashrockstreeswindonourcheeksthesolidearththeactualworld thecommonsenseContactContactWhoarewewhereareweErelongwerecognizedsomerocksandotherfeaturesinthelandscapewhichwehadpurposely impressedonourmemoriesandquickeningourpacebytwooclockwereachedthebatteauHerewehadexpectedtodineontroutbutinthisglaringsunlighttheywereslowtotakethebaitsowewerecompelledtomakethemostof thecrumbsofourhard-breadandourporkwhichwereboth nearly exhaustedMeanwhilewe deliberatedwhetherwe should go uptheriveramilefarthertoGibsonsclearingontheSowadnehunkwheretherewasadesertedloghut inorder togetahalf-inchauger tomendoneofourspike-poleswith Therewere young spruce trees enough around us andwehad a spare spike but nothing tomake a holewithBut as itwas uncertainwhetherweshouldfindanytoolslefttherewepatchedupthebrokenpoleaswellaswecouldforthedownwardvoyageinwhichtherewouldbebutlittleuseforitMoreoverwewereunwillingtoloseanytimeinthisexpeditionlestthewindshouldrisebeforewereached the larger lakesanddetainus foramoderatewindproducesquiteaseaon thesewaters inwhichabatteauwillnot live for amoment and on one occasionMcCauslin had been delayed aweekattheheadoftheNorthTwinwhichisonlyfourmilesacrossWewerenearly out of provisions and ill prepared in this respect for what mightpossibly prove a weeks journey round by the shore fording innumerablestreams and threading a trackless forest should any accident happen to ourboatItwaswithregretthatweturnedourbacksonChesuncookwhichMcCauslinhadformerlyloggedonandtheAllegashlakesTherewerestilllongerrapidsandportagesaboveamongthelasttheRipogenusPortagewhichhedescribed

asthemostdifficultontheriverandthreemileslongThewholelengthofthePenobscotistwohundredandseventy-fivemilesandwearestillnearlyonehundredmilesfromitssourceHodgetheAssistantStateGeologistpassedupthisriverin1837andbyaportageofonlyonemileandthreequarterscrossedover into theAllegash and sowentdown that into theSt John andup theMadawaskato theGrandPortageacross to theStLawrenceHis is theonlyaccountthatIknowofanexpeditionthroughtoCanadainthisdirectionHethusdescribeshisfirstsightofthelatterriverwhichtocomparesmallthingswithgreatislikeBalboasfirstsightofthePacificfromthemountainsoftheIsthmusofDarienWhenwefirstcameinsightoftheStLawrencehesaysfrom the top of a high hill the view was most striking and much moreinterestingtomefromhavingbeenshutupinthewoodsforthetwopreviousmonthsDirectly before us lay the broad river extending across nine or tenmiles its surfacebrokenbya few islandsand reefs and twoships ridingatanchorneartheshoreBeyondextendedrangesofuncultivatedhillsparallelwith the river The sun was just going down behind them and gilding thewholescenewithitspartingraysAbout four oclock the same afternoon we commenced our return voyagewhichwould requirebut little if anypoling In shooting rapids theboatmenuselargeandbroadpaddlesinsteadofpolestoguidetheboatwithThoughweglidedsoswiftlyandoftensmoothlydownwhereithadcostusnoslightefforttogetupourpresentvoyagewasattendedwithfarmoredangerforifweoncefairlystruckoneofthethousandrocksbywhichweweresurroundedthe boat would be swamped in an instantWhen a boat is swamped underthese circumstances the boatmen commonly find no difficulty in keepingafloat at first for the current keepsboth themand their cargoup for a longwaydownthestreamandiftheycanswimtheyhaveonlytoworktheirwaygradually to the shore The greatest danger is of being caught in an eddybehind some larger rock where the water rushes up stream faster thanelsewhereitdoesdownandbeingcarriedroundandroundunderthesurfacetilltheyaredrownedMcCauslinpointedoutsomerockswhichhadbeenthesceneofafatalaccidentofthiskindSometimesthebodyisnotthrownoutforseveral hours He himself had performed such a circuit once only his legsbeingvisibletohiscompanionsbuthewasfortunatelythrownoutinseasontorecoverhisbreathInshootingtherapidstheboatmanhasthisproblemtosolve tochooseacircuitousandsafecourseamida thousandsunken rocksscattered over a quarter or half a mile at the same time that he is movingsteadily on at the rate of fifteen miles an hour Stop he cannot the onlyquestion iswherewill he goThe bowman chooses the coursewith all hiseyes abouthim strikingbroadoffwithhispaddle anddrawing theboatbymainforceintohercourseThesternmanfaithfullyfollowsthebowWeweresoonattheAboljacarmegusFallsAnxioustoavoidthedelayaswell

as the labor of the portage here our boatmen went forward first toreconnoitre and concluded to let the batteau down the falls carrying thebaggageonlyovertheportageJumpingfromrocktorockuntilnearlyinthemiddleofthestreamwewerereadytoreceivetheboatandletherdownoverthefirstfallsomesixorsevenfeetperpendicularTheboatmenstandupontheedgeofashelfofrockwherethefallisperhapsnineortenfeetperpendicularinfromonetotwofeetofrapidwateroneoneachsideoftheboatandletitslide gently over till the bow is run out ten or twelve feet in the air thenlettingitdropsquarelywhileoneholdsthepaintertheotherleapsinandhiscompanion following they are whirled down the rapids to a new fall or tosmooth water In a very few minutes they had accomplished a passage insafetywhichwouldbeasfoolhardyfortheunskillfultoattemptasthedescentofNiagaraitselfItseemedasifitneededonlyalittlefamiliarityandalittlemore skill to navigatedown such falls asNiagara itselfwith safetyAt anyrateIshouldnotdespairofsuchmenintherapidsaboveTableRockuntilIsaw them actually go over the falls so cool so collected so fertile inresourcesaretheyOnemighthavethoughtthatthesewerefallsandthatfallswerenot tobewaded throughwith impunity like amud-puddleTherewasreallydangeroftheirlosingtheirsublimityinlosingtheirpowertoharmusFamiliaritybreedscontemptTheboatmanpausesperchanceon someshelfbeneatha table-rockunder the fall standing in somecoveofbackwater twofeet deep and you hear his rough voice come up through the spray coollygivingdirectionshowtolaunchtheboatthistimeHaving carried roundPockwockomusFalls ouroars soonbrought us to theKatepskoneganorOakHallcarrywherewedecidedtocamphalf-wayoverleavingourbatteautobecarriedoverinthemorningonfreshshouldersOneshoulder of each of the boatmen showed a red spot as large as ones handwornbythebatteauonthisexpeditionandthisshoulderasitdidalltheworkwasperceptiblylowerthanitsfellowfromlongserviceSuchtoilsoonwearsoutthestrongestconstitutionThedriversareaccustomedtoworkinthecoldwater in the spring rarely ever dry and if one falls in all over he rarelychangeshisclothes tillnight if thenevenOnewhotakes thisprecautioniscalledbyaparticularnicknameoristurnedoffNonecanleadthislifewhoarenotalmostamphibiousMcCauslinsaidsoberlywhatisatanyrateagoodstorytotellthathehadseenwheresixmenwerewhollyunderwateratonceatajamwiththeirshoulderstohandspikesIfthelogdidnotstartthentheyhadtoputouttheirheadstobreatheThedriverworksaslongashecanseefrom dark to dark and at night has not time to eat his supper and dry hisclothes fairlybeforehe isasleeponhiscedarbedWe lay thatnighton theverybedmadebysuchapartystretchingourtentoverthepoleswhichwerestillstandingbutre-shinglingthedampandfadedbedwithfreshleavesInthemorningwecarriedourboatoverandlauncheditmakinghastelestthe

wind should rise The boatmen ran down Passamagamet and soon afterAmbejijisFallswhilewewalkedroundwith thebaggageWemadeahastybreakfast at the head of Ambejijis Lake on the remainder of our pork andwere soon rowingacross its smooth surface again under apleasant sky themountainbeingnowclearofcloudsinthenortheastTakingturnsattheoarsweshotrapidlyacrossDeepCove thefootofPamadumcookandtheNorthTwin at the rate of six miles an hour the wind not being high enough todisturbusand reached theDamatnoonTheboatmenwent throughoneofthe log sluices in thebatteauwhere the fallwas ten feet at thebottomandtookus inbelowHerewasthe longestrapid inourvoyageandperhaps therunning this was as dangerous and arduous a task as any Shooting downsometimesat the rate aswe judgedof fifteenmilesanhour ifwestruckarockweweresplitfromendtoendinaninstantNowlikeabaitbobbingforsome rivermonster amid theeddiesnowdarting to this sideof the streamnowtothatglidingswiftandsmoothneartoourdestructionorstrikingbroadoffwiththepaddleanddrawingtheboattorightorleftwithallourmightinordertoavoidarockIsupposethatitwaslikerunningtherapidsoftheSaultSainte Marie at the outlet of Lake Superior and our boatmen probablydisplayednolessdexteritythantheIndianstheredoWesoonranthroughthismileandfloatedinQuakishLakeAftersuchavoyage the troubledandangrywaterswhichoncehadseemedterribleandnottobetrifledwithappearedtamedandsubduedtheyhadbeenbeardedandworried in theirchannelsprickedandwhipped intosubmissionwiththespike-poleandpaddlegonethroughandthroughwithimpunityandall their spiritand theirdanger takenoutof themand themost swollenandimpetuous rivers seemed but playthings henceforth I began at length tounderstand the boatmans familiarity with and contempt for the rapidsThoseFowlerboyssaidMrsMcCauslinareperfectducksforthewaterThey had run down to Lincoln according to her thirty or fortymiles in abatteauinthenightforadoctorwhenitwassodarkthattheycouldnotseearodbefore them and the riverwas swollen so as to be almost a continuousrapidsothatthedoctorcriedwhentheybroughthimupbydaylightWhyTom how did you see to steer We didnt steer muchmdashonly kept herstraight And yet they met with no accident It is true the more difficultrapidsarehigherupthanthisWhenwereachedtheMillinocketoppositetoTomshouseandwerewaitingforhisfolkstosetusovermdashforwehadleftourbatteauabovetheGrandFallsmdashwe discovered two canoeswith twomen in each turning up this streamfromShadPond one keeping the opposite side of a small island before uswhile theotherapproached the sidewherewewere standing examining thebankscarefullyformuskratsastheycamealongThelastprovedtobeLouisNeptuneandhiscompanionnowatlastontheirwayuptoChesuncookafter

moose but they were so disguised that we hardly knew them At a littledistance theymight havebeen taken forQuakerswith their broad-brimmedhatsandovercoatswithbroadcapesthespoilsofBangorseekingasettlementin thisSylvaniamdashornearerathand for fashionablegentlemen themorningafteraspreeMetfacetofacetheseIndiansintheirnativewoodslookedlikethe sinister and slouching fellows whom you meet picking up strings andpaper in the streetsof a cityThere is in fact a remarkable andunexpectedresemblance between the degraded savage and the lowest classes in a greatcityTheone is nomore a childof nature than theother In theprogressofdegradation the distinction of races is soon lost Neptune at first was onlyanxioustoknowwhatwekillseeingsomepartridgesinthehandsofoneofthepartybutwehadassumedtoomuchangertopermitofareplyWethoughtIndianshadsomehonorbeforeButmdashMebeensickOhmeunwellnowYoumake bargain then me go They had in fact been delayed so long by adrunken frolic at the Five Islands and they had not yet recovered from itseffectsTheyhadsomeyoungmusquashintheircanoeswhichtheydugoutof thebankswithahoe for foodnot for theirskins formusquashare theirprincipalfoodontheseexpeditionsSotheywentonuptheMillinocketandwe kept down the bank of the Penobscot after recruiting ourselves with adraughtofTomsbeerleavingTomathishomeThus aman shall lead his life away here on the edge of thewilderness onIndianMillinocketStreaminanewworldfarinthedarkofacontinentandhaveaflutetoplayateveningherewhilehisstrainsechotothestarsamidthehowlingofwolvesshallliveasitwereintheprimitiveageoftheworlda primitivemanYet he shall spend a sunnyday and in this centurybemycontemporary perchance shall read some scattered leaves of literature andsometimes talk with me Why read history then if the ages and thegenerationsarenowHelivesthreethousandyearsdeepintotimeanagenotyetdescribedbypoetsCanyouwellgofurtherbackinhistorythanthisAyaymdashfor there turnsupbutnowinto themouthofMillinocketStreamastillmoreancientandprimitivemanwhosehistory isnotbroughtdowneven totheformerInabarkvesselsewnwiththerootsofthesprucewithhorn-beampaddleshedipshiswayalongHeisbutdimandmisty tomeobscuredbytheaeligonsthatliebetweenthebarkcanoeandthebatteauHebuildsnohouseof logs but a wigwam of skins He eats no hot bread and sweet cake butmusquashandmoosemeatandthefatofbearsHeglidesuptheMillinocketand is lost tomysight asamoredistantandmistycloud is seen flittingbybehindanearerandislostinspaceSohegoesabouthisdestinytheredfaceofmanAfter having passed the night and buttered our boots for the last time atUncle Georges whose dogs almost devoured him for joy at his return wekeptondowntheriverthenextdayabouteightmilesonfootandthentooka

batteauwithamantopoleit toMattawamkeagtenmoreAtthemiddleofthat very night tomake a swift conclusion to a long storywedroppedourbuggyoverthehalf-finishedbridgeatOldtownwhereweheardtheconfuseddinandclinkofahundredsawswhichneverrestandatsixoclockthenextmorningoneofthepartywassteaminghiswaytoMassachusettsWhat ismost striking in theMainewilderness is the continuousness of theforestwithfeweropenintervalsorgladesthanyouhadimaginedExceptthefewburnt lands thenarrowintervalson the rivers thebare topsof thehighmountains and the lakes and streams the forest is uninterrupted It is evenmoregrimandwildthanyouhadanticipatedadampandintricatewildernessin thespringeverywherewetandmiryTheaspectof thecountry indeed isuniversally stern and savage excepting the distant views of the forest fromhills and the lakeprospectswhich aremild and civilizing in a degreeThelakes are something which you are unprepared for they lie up so highexposed to the light and the forest is diminished to a fine fringe on theiredgeswithhereand thereabluemountain likeamethyst jewels set aroundsomejewelofthefirstwatermdashsoanteriorsosuperiortoallthechangesthataretotakeplaceontheirshoresevennowcivilandrefinedandfairastheycaneverbeThesearenot theartificial forestsof anEnglishkingmdasha royalpreserve merely Here prevail no forest laws but those of nature TheaborigineshaveneverbeendispossessednornaturedisforestedIt is a country full of evergreen trees of mossy silver birches and waterymaples the ground dotted with insipid small red berries and strewn withdampandmoss-grown rocksmdashacountrydiversifiedwith innumerable lakesand rapid streams peopled with trout and various species of leucisci withsalmon shad and pickerel and other fishes the forest resounding at rareintervalswiththenoteofthechickadeethebluejayandthewoodpeckerthescreamofthefishhawkandtheeaglethelaughoftheloonandthewhistleofducks along the solitary streams at night with the hooting of owls andhowling of wolves in summer swarming with myriads of black flies andmosquitoesmoreformidablethanwolvestothewhitemanSuchisthehomeofthemoosethebearthecaribouthewolfthebeaverandtheIndianWhoshalldescribetheinexpressibletendernessandimmortallifeofthegrimforestwhereNaturethoughitbemidwinter iseverinherspringwherethemoss-grownanddecayingtreesarenotoldbutseemtoenjoyaperpetualyouthandblissful innocentNature likea serene infant is toohappy tomakeanoiseexceptbyafewtinklinglispingbirdsandtricklingrillsWhataplacetolivewhataplacetodieandbeburiedinTherecertainlymenwouldliveforeverandlaughatdeathandthegraveTheretheycouldhavenosuchthoughtsasareassociatedwiththevillagegraveyardmdashthatmakeagraveoutofoneofthosemoistevergreenhummocks

DieandbeburiedwhowillImeantoliveherestillMynaturegrowsevermoreyoungTheprimitivepinesamongIamremindedbymyjourneyhowexceedinglynewthiscountrystillisYouhaveonlytotravelforafewdaysintotheinteriorandbackpartsevenofmanyof the old States to come to that very America which the Northmen andCabotandGosnoldandSmithandRaleighvisitedIfColumbuswasthefirsttodiscovertheislandsAmericusVespuciusandCabotandthePuritansandwetheirdescendantshavediscoveredonlytheshoresofAmericaWhiletheRepublichasalreadyacquiredahistoryworld-wideAmericaisstillunsettledandunexploredLiketheEnglishinNewHollandweliveonlyontheshoresofacontinentevenyetandhardlyknowwhere theriverscomefromwhichfloatournavyTheverytimberandboardsandshinglesofwhichourhousesaremadegrewbutyesterdayinawildernesswheretheIndianstillhuntsandthemoose runswildNewYorkhasherwildernesswithinherownbordersand though the sailors of Europe are familiar with the soundings of herHudsonandFultonlongsinceinventedthesteamboatonitswatersanIndianis still necessary to guide her scientific men to its headwaters in theAdirondackcountryHaveweevensomuchasdiscoveredandsettledtheshoresLetamantravelonfootalongthecoastfromthePassamaquoddytotheSabineortotheRioBravo or to wherever the end is now if he is swift enough to overtake itfaithfully following the windings of every inlet and of every cape andsteppingtothemusicofthesurfmdashwithadesolatefishingtownonceaweekandacitysportonceamonthtocheerhimandputtingupatthelighthouseswhen there are anymdashand tell me if it looks like a discovered and settledcountryandnotratherforthemostpartlikeadesolateislandandNo-MansLandWehaveadvancedbyleapstothePacificandleftmanyalesserOregonandCaliforniaunexploredbehindusThoughtherailroadandthe telegraphhavebeen establishedon the shores ofMaine the Indian still looks out fromherinteriormountainsoverall these to theseaTherestands thecityofBangorfiftymilesupthePenobscotattheheadofnavigationforvesselsofthelargestclasstheprincipallumberdepotonthiscontinentwithapopulationoftwelvethousandlikeastarontheedgeofnightstillhewingattheforestsofwhichitisbuiltalreadyoverflowingwiththeluxuriesandrefinementofEuropeandsending its vessels to Spain to England and to the West Indies for itsgroceriesmdashandyetonlyafewaxemenhavegoneupriverintothehowlingwildernesswhichfeedsitThebearanddeerarestillfoundwithinits limits

andthemooseasheswimsthePenobscotisentangledamiditsshippingandtakenbyforeignsailorsinitsharborTwelvemilesinthereartwelvemilesofrailroadareOronoandtheIndianIslandthehomeofthePenobscottribeandthen commence the batteau and the canoe and themilitary road and sixtymilesabovethecountryisvirtuallyunmappedandunexploredandtherestillwavesthevirginforestoftheNewWorld

CHESUNCOOK

AtfiveSeptember131853IleftBostoninthesteamerforBangorbytheoutsidecourseItwasawarmandstillnightmdashwarmerprobablyonthewaterthan on the landmdashand the sea was as smooth as a small lake in summermerelyrippledThepassengerswentsingingonthedeckasinaparlortilltenoclock We passed a vessel on her beam-ends on a rock just outside theislandsandsomeofusthoughtthatshewastheraptshipwhichranonhersidesolowThatshedrankwaterandherkeelploughedairnot considering that therewas nowind and that shewas under bare polesNowwe have left the islands behind and are off NahantWe behold thosefeatureswhich the discoverers saw apparently unchanged Nowwe see theCape Ann lights and now pass near a small village-like fleet of mackerelfishers at anchor probablyoffGloucesterThey saluteuswith a shout fromtheir lowdecks but I understand their Good-evening tomean Dont runagainstme sir From thewonders of the deepwe go below to yet deepersleepAnd then theabsurdityofbeingwakedup in thenightbyamanwhowants the jobofblackingyourboots It ismore inevitable thanseasicknessand may have something to do with it It is like the ducking you get oncrossingthelinethefirsttimeItrustedthattheseoldcustomswereabolishedTheymightwith the samepropriety insist onblackingyour face I heardofonemanwhocomplainedthatsomebodyhadstolenhisbootsinthenightandwhenhefoundthemhewantedtoknowwhattheyhaddonetothemmdashtheyhad spoiled themmdashhe never put that stuff on them and the bootblacknarrowlyescapedpayingdamagesAnxioustogetoutofthewhalesbellyIroseearlyandjoinedsomeoldsaltswhoweresmokingbyadimlightonashelteredpartofthedeckWewerejustgetting into the riverTheyknewall about itofcourse Iwasproud to findthat I had stood the voyage so well andwas not in the least digestedWebrushedupandwatchedthefirstsignsofdawnthroughanopenportbutthedayseemedtohangfireWeinquiredthetimenoneofmycompanionshada

chronometer At length an African prince rushed by observing TwelveoclockgentlemenandblewoutthelightItwasmoonriseSoIslunkdownintothemonstersbowelsagainThe first land we make is Monhegan Island before dawn and next StGeorgesIslandsseeingtwoorthreelightsWhiteheadwithitsbarerocksandfunerealbell isinterestingNextIrememberthattheCamdenHillsattractedmy eyes and afterward the hills about FrankfortWe reachedBangor aboutnoonWhenIarrivedmycompanionthatwastobehadgoneupriverandengagedan Indian JoeAitteon a sonof theGovernor togowithus toChesuncookLake Joe had conducted two white men a-moose-hunting in the samedirectiontheyearbeforeHearrivedbycarsatBangorthateveningwithhiscanoeandacompanionSabattisSolomonwhowasgoingtoleaveBangorthefollowingMondaywithJoesfatherbywayofthePenobscotandjoinJoeinmoose-huntingatChesuncookwhenwehaddonewithhimTheytooksupperatmyfriendshouseandlodgedinhisbarnsayingthattheyshouldfareworsethanthatinthewoodsTheyonlymadeWatchbarkalittlewhentheycametothedoorinthenightforwaterforhedoesnotlikeIndiansThe next morning Joe and his canoe were put on board the stage forMooseheadLakesixtyandoddmilesdistantanhourbeforewestartedinanopen wagon We carried hard-bread pork smoked beef tea sugar etcseemingly enough for a regiment the sight of which brought togetherremindedmebywhatignoblemeanswehadmaintainedourgroundhithertoWe went by the Avenue Road which is quite straight and very goodnorthwestward toward Moosehead Lake through more than a dozenflourishing towns with almost every one its academymdashnot one of whichhoweverisonmyGeneralAtlaspublishedalasin1824somucharetheybeforetheageorIbehinditTheearthmusthavebeenconsiderablylightertotheshouldersofGeneralAtlasthenIt rainedall thisdayand till themiddleof thenext forenoonconcealing thelandscapealmostentirelybutwehadhardlygotoutofthestreetsofBangorbeforeIbegan tobeexhilaratedby thesightof thewildfirandspruce topsand those of other primitive evergreens peering through the mist in thehorizonItwas like thesightandodorofcaketoaschoolboyHewhoridesandkeepsthebeatentrackstudiesthefenceschieflyNearBangorthefence-posts on account of the frosts heaving them in the clayey soil were notplanted in the ground but weremortised into a transverse horizontal beamlying on the surface Afterwards the prevailing fences were log ones withsometimesaVirginiafenceorelserailsslantedovercrossedstakesandthesezigzaggedorplayedleap-frogallthewaytothelakekeepingjustaheadofusAftergettingoutofthePenobscotvalleythecountrywasunexpectedlylevel

orconsistedofveryevenandequal swells for twentyor thirtymilesneverrisingabovethegenerallevelbutaffordingitissaidaverygoodprospectinclearweatherwithfrequentviewsofKtaadnmdashstraight roadsand longhillsThe houses were far apart commonly small and of one story but framedTherewasverylittlelandundercultivationyettheforestdidnotoftenbordertheroadThestumpswerefrequentlyashighasonesheadshowingthedepthofthesnowsThewhitehay-capsdrawnoversmallstacksofbeansorcorninthefieldsonaccountoftherainwereanovelsighttomeWesawlargeflocksof pigeons and several times camewithin a rod or two of partridges in theroadMycompanionsaidthatinonejourneyoutofBangorheandhissonhadshot sixty partridges from his buggy The mountain-ash was now veryhandsome as also the wayfarers-tree or hobble-bush with its ripe purpleberries mixed with red The Canada thistle an introduced plant was theprevailingweedallthewaytothelaketheroadsideinmanyplacesandfieldsnotlongclearedbeingdenselyfilledwithitaswithacroptotheexclusionofeverything else There were also whole fields full of ferns now rusty andwithering which in older countries are commonly confined to wet groundTherewereveryfewflowersevenallowingforthelatenessoftheseasonItchanced that I sawnoasters inbloomalong the road for fiftymiles thoughtheyweresoabundanttheninMassachusettsmdashexceptinoneplaceoneortwoof the Aster acuminatusmdashand no golden-rods till within twenty miles ofMonsonwhere I saw a three-ribbed one Thereweremany late buttercupshoweverandthetwofire-weedserechthitesandepilobiumcommonlywherethere had been a burning and at last the pearly everlasting I noticedoccasionally very long troughswhich supplied the roadwithwater andmycompanion said that threedollars annuallyweregrantedby theState to oneman in each school-district who provided andmaintained a suitablewater-trough by the roadside for the use of travelersmdasha piece of intelligence asrefreshingtomeasthewateritselfThatlegislaturedidnotsitinvainItwasan Oriental act which made me wish that I was still farther down EastmdashanotherMainelawwhichIhopewemaygetinMassachusettsThatStateisbanishingbar-roomsfromitshighwaysandconductingthemountainspringsthitherThe country was first decidedly mountainous in Garland Sangerville andonwards twenty-fiveor thirtymiles fromBangorAtSangervillewherewestoppedatmid-afternoontowarmanddryourselvesthelandlordtoldusthathehadfoundawildernesswherewefoundhimAtaforkintheroadbetweenAbbotandMonsonabouttwentymilesfromMooseheadLakeIsawaguide-postsurmountedbyapairofmoosehornsspreadingfourorfivefeetwiththewordMonsonpaintedononebladeandthenameofsomeothertownontheotherTheyaresometimesusedforornamentalhat-treestogetherwithdeershornsinfrontentriesbutaftertheexperiencewhichIshallrelateItrustthat

IshallhaveabetterexcuseforkillingamoosethanthatImayhangmyhatonhishornsWereachedMonsonfiftymilesfromBangorandthirteenfromthelakeafterdarkAtfouroclockthenextmorninginthedarkandstillintherainwepursuedour journey Close to the academy in this town they have erected a sort ofgallowsforthepupilstopracticeonIthoughtthattheymightaswellhangatonce allwhoneed to go through such exercises in sonewa countrywherethere isnothing tohinder their livinganoutdoor lifeBetteromitBlair andtaketheairThecountryaboutthesouthendofthelakeisquitemountainousand the road began to feel the effects of it There is one hill which it iscalculatedittakestwenty-fiveminutestoascendInmanyplacestheroadwasin that condition called repaired having just beenwhittled into the requiredsemicylindrical form with the shovel and scraper with all the softestinequalitiesinthemiddlelikeahogsbackwiththebristlesupandJehuwasexpectedtokeepastrideofthespineAsyoulookedoffeachsideofthebaresphereintothehorizontheditcheswereawfultobeholdmdashavasthollownesslike that between Saturn and his ring At a tavern hereabouts the hostlergreeted our horse as an old acquaintance though he did not remember thedriverHesaidthathehadtakencareofthatlittlemareforashorttimeayearortwobeforeattheMountKineoHouseandthoughtshewasnotinasgoodconditionas thenEveryman tohis trade IamnotacquaintedwithasinglehorseintheworldnoteventheonethatkickedmeAlreadywehadthoughtthatwesawMooseheadLakefromahilltopwhereanextensivefogfilledthedistantlowlandsbutweweremistakenItwasnottillwewerewithinamileortwoofitssouthendthatwegotourfirstviewofitmdasha suitably wild-looking sheet of water sprinkled with small low islandswhichwerecoveredwithshaggyspruceandotherwildwoodmdashseenovertheinfantportofGreenvillewithmountainsoneachsideandfarinthenorthandasteamerssmoke-piperisingabovearoofApairofmoose-hornsornamentedacornerofthepublichousewhereweleftourhorseandafewrodsdistantlaythe small steamerMoosehead Captain King There was no village and nosummer road any farther in this direction but a winter road that is onepassableonlywhendeepsnowcoversitsinequalitiesfromGreenvilleuptheeastsideofthelaketoLilyBayabouttwelvemilesIwasherefirstintroducedtoJoeHehadriddenallthewayontheoutsideofthe stage the day before in the rain giving way to ladies and was wellwettedAsitstillrainedheaskedifweweregoingtoputitthroughHewasa good-looking Indian twenty-four years old apparently of unmixed bloodshortandstoutwithabroadfaceandreddishcomplexionandeyesmethinksnarrowerandmoreturnedupattheoutercornersthanoursansweringtothedescriptionofhisraceBesideshisunderclothingheworearedflannelshirt

woolenpantsandablackKossuthhattheordinarydressofthelumbermanand to a considerable extent of the Penobscot IndianWhen afterward hehad occasion to take off his shoes and stockings I was struck with thesmallness of his feet He had worked a good deal as a lumberman andappearedtoidentifyhimselfwiththatclassHewastheonlyoneofthepartywhopossessedanindia-rubberjacketThetopstriporedgeofhiscanoewaswornnearlythroughbyfrictiononthestageAt eight oclock the steamer with her bell and whistle scaring the moosesummonedusonboardShewasawell-appointedlittleboatcommandedbyagentlemanly captainwith patent life-seats andmetallic life-boat anddinneronboardifyouwishSheischieflyusedbylumberersforthetransportationofthemselvestheirboatsandsuppliesbutalsobyhuntersandtouristsTherewasanothersteamernamedAmphitritelaidupclosebybutapparentlyhername was not more trite than her hull There were also two or three largesailboats inportThesebeginningsofcommerceona lake in thewildernessareveryinterestingmdashtheselargerwhitebirdsthatcometokeepcompanywiththegullsTherewerebutfewpassengersandnotonefemaleamongthemaStFrancisIndianwithhiscanoeandmoose-hidestwoexplorersforlumberthreemenwholandedatSandbarIslandandagentlemanwholivesonDeerIslandelevenmilesupthelakeandownsalsoSugarIslandbetweenwhichand theformer thesteamerruns these I thinkwereallbesideourselves Inthesaloonwassomekindofmusical instrumentmdashcherubimorseraphimmdashtosoothetheangrywavesandthereveryproperlywastackedupthemapofthepubliclandsofMaineandMassachusettsacopyofwhichIhadinmypocketThe heavy rain confining us to the saloon awhile I discoursed with theproprietor of Sugar Island on the condition of the world in Old TestamenttimesButat length leaving this subjectas freshaswe found ithe toldmethathehadlivedaboutthislaketwentyorthirtyyearsandyethadnotbeentotheheadofitfortwenty-oneyearsHefacestheotherwayTheexplorershada finenewbirchonboard larger thanours inwhich theyhadcomeup thePiscataquisfromHowlandandtheyhadhadseveralmessesoftroutalreadyTheyweregoingtotheneighborhoodofEagleandChamberlainlakesorthehead-watersoftheStJohnandofferedtokeepuscompanyasfaraswewentThelaketo-daywasrougherthanIfoundtheoceaneithergoingorreturningand Joe remarked that itwould swamphisbirchOffLilyBay it is adozenmileswidebutitismuchbrokenbyislandsThesceneryisnotmerelywildbutvariedandinterestingmountainswereseenfartherorneareronallsidesbut thenorthwest theirsummitsnowlost in thecloudsbutMountKineo isthe principal feature of the lake and more exclusively belongs to it AfterleavingGreenvilleat thefootwhichis thenucleusofa townsomeeightortenyearsoldyouseebutthreeorfourhousesforthewholelengthofthelakeoraboutfortymiles threeof themthepublichousesatwhichthesteameris

advertised to stop and the shore is an unbrokenwilderness The prevailingwood seemed to be spruce fir birch and rock maple You could easilydistinguishthehardwoodfromthesoftorblackgrowthasitiscalledatagreatdistancetheformerbeingsmoothround-toppedandlightgreenwithaboweryandcultivatedlookMountKineoatwhich theboat touched isapeninsulawithanarrowneckaboutmidwaythelakeontheeastsideThecelebratedprecipiceisontheeastorlandsideofthisandissohighandperpendicularthatyoucanjumpfromthetopmanyhundredfeetintothewaterwhichmakesupbehindthepointAmanon board told us that an anchor had been sunkninety fathoms at itsbasebeforereachingbottomProbablyitwillbediscoverederelongthatsomeIndian maiden jumped off it for love once for true love never could havefoundapathmoretoitsmindWepassedquiteclosetotherockheresinceitisaveryboldshoreandIobservedmarksofariseoffourorfivefeetonitTheStFrancisIndianexpectedtotakeinhisboyherebuthewasnotatthelandingThefatherssharpeyeshoweverdetectedacanoewithhisboyinitfarawayunder themountain thoughnooneelsecouldsee itWhere is thecanoeaskedthecaptainIdontseeitbutheheldonneverthelessandbyandbyithoveinsightWe reached the head of the lake about noon The weather had in themeanwhile clearedup though themountainswere still cappedwith cloudsSeen from this pointMountKineo and twoother alliedmountains rangingwithitnortheasterlypresentedaverystrongfamilylikenessas ifallcast inone mould The steamer here approached a long pier projecting from thenorthernwildernessandbuiltofsomeof its logsandwhistledwherenotacabinnoramortalwastobeseenTheshorewasquitelowwithflatrocksonitoverhungwithblackasharbor-vitaeligetcwhichatfirstlookedasiftheydidnotcareawhistle forusTherewasnotasinglecabman tocryCoachorinveigleus to theUnitedStatesHotelAt length aMrHinckleywhohas acampattheotherendofthecarryappearedwithatruckdrawnbyanoxandahorseoverarudelog-railwaythroughthewoodsThenextthingwastogetour canoe and effects over the carry from this lake oneof the heads of theKennebec into thePenobscotRiverThis railway from the lake to the riveroccupiedthemiddleofaclearingtwoorthreerodswideandperfectlystraightthrough the forestWewalked acrosswhileourbaggagewasdrawnbehindMy companion went ahead to be ready for partridges while I followedlookingattheplantsThiswas an interesting botanical locality for one coming from the south tocommencewithformanyplantswhichareratherrareandoneortwowhichare not found at all in the eastern part ofMassachusetts grew abundantlybetweentherailsmdashasLabrador-teaKalmiaglaucaCanadablueberry(which

wasstillinfruitandasecondtimeinbloom)ClintoniaandLinnaeligaborealiswhich last a lumberer called moxon creeping snowberry painted trilliumlarge-flowered bellwort etc I fancied that the Aster Radula Diplopappusumbellatus Solidago lanceolata red trumpet-weed and many others whichwereconspicuouslyinbloomontheshoreofthelakeandonthecarryhadapeculiarlywildandprimitivelookthereThespruceandfirtreescrowdedtothetrackoneachsidetowelcomeusthearbor-vitaeligwithitschangingleavespromptedustomakehasteandthesightofthecanoebirchgaveusspiritstodo so Sometimes an evergreen just fallen lay across the trackwith its richburden of cones looking still fuller of life than our trees in the mostfavorablepositionsYoudidnotexpect to findsuchspruce trees in thewildwoods but they evidently attend to their toilets each morning even thereThroughsuchafrontyarddidweenterthatwildernessTherewasaveryslightriseabovethelakemdashthecountryappearinglikeandperhaps being partly a swampmdashand at length a gradual descent to thePenobscotwhichIwassurprisedtofindherealargestreamfromtwelvetofifteenrodswideflowingfromwesttoeastoratrightangleswiththelakeandnotmorethantwoandahalfmilesfromitThedistanceisnearlytwicetoogreatontheMapofthePublicLandsandonColtonsMapofMaineandRussellStreamisplacedtoofardownJacksonmakesMooseheadLaketobeninehundredandsixtyfeetabovehighwater inPortlandharbor It ishigherthanChesuncookforthelumberersconsiderthePenobscotwherewestruckittwenty-fivefeetlowerthanMooseheadthougheightmilesaboveitissaidtobe thehighest so that thewatercanbemade to floweitherwayand theriver falls a gooddeal betweenhere andChesuncookThe carry-man calledthis about one hundred and forty miles above Bangor by the river or twohundred from the ocean and fifty-fivemiles belowHiltons on theCanadaroadthefirstclearingabovewhichisfourandahalfmilesfromthesourceofthePenobscotAtthenorthendofthecarryinthemidstofaclearingofsixtyacresormoretherewas a log campof theusual constructionwith somethingmore like ahouseadjoiningfortheaccommodationofthecarry-mansfamilyandpassinglumberers The bed ofwithered fir twigs smelled very sweet though reallyverydirtyTherewasalsoa store-houseon thebankof the rivercontainingporkflourironbatteauxandbircheslockedupWenowproceededtogetourdinnerwhichalwaysturnedouttobeteaandtopitchcanoesforwhichpurposealargeironpotlaypermanentlyonthebankThiswe did in companywith the explorers Both Indians andwhites use amixtureofrosinandgreasefor thispurpose that is for thepitchingnot thedinner Joe took a small brand from the fire and blew the heat and flameagainstthepitchonhisbirchandsomeltedandspreaditSometimesheput

hismouthoverthesuspectedspotandsuckedtoseeifitadmittedairandatone place where we stopped he set his canoe high on crossed stakes andpouredwaterintoitInarrowlywatchedhismotionsandlistenedattentivelytohisobservationsforwehademployedanIndianmainlythatImighthaveanopportunitytostudyhiswaysIheardhimswearoncemildlyduringthisoperationabouthisknifebeingasdullasahoemdashanaccomplishmentwhichhe owed to his intercoursewith thewhites and he remarked Weought tohavesometeabeforewestartweshallbehungrybeforewekillthatmooseAtmid-afternoonweembarkedonthePenobscotOurbirchwasnineteenandahalffeetlongbytwoandahalfatthewidestpartandfourteeninchesdeepwithin both ends alike and painted green which Joe thought affected thepitch andmade it leakThis I thinkwas amiddling-sizedoneThat of theexplorerswasmuchlargerthoughprobablynotmuchlongerThiscarriedusthreewithourbaggageweighinginallbetweenfivehundredandfiftyandsixhundredpoundsWehadtwoheavythoughslenderrock-maplepaddlesoneofthemofbirds-eyemapleJoeplacedbirch-barkonthebottomforustositonandslantedcedarsplintsagainstthecross-barstoprotectourbackswhilehehimselfsatuponacross-barinthesternThebaggageoccupiedthemiddleorwidestpartofthecanoeWealsopaddledbyturnsinthebowsnowsittingwithour legs extendednowsittinguponour legs andnow risinguponourkneesbutIfoundnoneofthesepositionsendurableandwasremindedofthecomplaintsoftheoldJesuitmissionariesofthetorturetheyenduredfromlongconfinement in constrained positions in canoes in their long voyages fromQuebectotheHuroncountrybutafterwardsIsatonthecross-barsorstoodupandexperiencednoinconvenienceItwasdeadwater foracoupleofmilesTheriverhadbeenraisedabout twofeet by the rain and lumberers were hoping for a flood sufficient to bringdownthelogsthatwereleft inthespringItsbanksweresevenoreightfeethighanddenselycoveredwithwhiteandblacksprucemdashwhichIthinkmustbethecommonesttreesthereaboutsmdashfirarbor-vitaeligcanoeyellowandblackbirchrockmountainandafewredmaplesbeechblackandmountainashthelarge-toothedaspenmanycivil-lookingelmsnowimbrownedalongthestream and at first a fewhemlocks alsoWe had not gone far before IwasstartledbyseeingwhatIthoughtwasanIndianencampmentcoveredwitharedflagonthebankandexclaimedCamptomycomradesIwasslowtodiscover that itwasaredmaplechangedbythefrostTheimmediateshoreswerealsodenselycoveredwiththespeckledalderredosiershrubbywillowsor sallows and the like There were a few yellow lily pads still left half-drowned along the sides and sometimes awhite oneMany fresh tracksofmoosewere visiblewhere thewaterwas shallow and on the shore the lilystemswerefreshlybittenoffbythem

After paddling about twomilesweparted companywith the explorers andturned upLobster Streamwhich comes in on the right from the southeastThiswassixoreightrodswideandappearedtorunnearlyparallelwiththePenobscotJoesaidthatitwassocalledfromsmallfresh-waterlobstersfoundin it It is theMatahumkeagof themapsMycompanionwished to look formoosesignsandintendedifitprovedworththewhiletocampupthatwaysincetheIndianadviseditOnaccountoftheriseofthePenobscotthewaterran up this stream to the pond of the same name one or two miles TheSpencerMountains east of the north end ofMooseheadLakewere now inplain sight in front of us The kingfisher flew before us the pigeonwoodpeckerwasseenandheardandnuthatchesandchickadeescloseathandJoesaidthattheycalledthechickadeekecunnilessuinhislanguageIwillnotvouch for the spelling of what possibly was never spelt before but IpronouncedafterhimtillhesaiditwoulddoWepassedclosetoawoodcockwhich stood perfectly still on the shorewith feathers puffed up as if sickThisJoesaidtheycallednipsquecohossusThekingfisherwasskuscumonsuckbearwaswassus Indian devil lunxus themountain-ash upahsis ThiswasveryabundantandbeautifulMoosetrackswerenotsofreshalongthisstreamexceptinasmallcreekaboutamileupitwherealargeloghadlodgedinthespringmarkedW-cross-girdle-crow-footWesawapairofmoose-hornsontheshoreandIaskedJoeifamoosehadshedthembuthesaidtherewasaheadattachedtothemandIknewthattheydidnotshedtheirheadsmorethanonceintheirlivesAfterascendingaboutamileandahalftowithinashortdistanceofLobsterLakewereturnedto thePenobscotJustbelowthemouthof theLobsterwefoundquickwater and the riverexpanded to twentyor thirty rods inwidthThemoose-trackswerequitenumerousandfreshhereWenoticedinagreatmanyplacesnarrowandwell-troddenpathsbywhichtheyhadcomedowntotheriverandwheretheyhadslidonthesteepandclayeybankTheirtrackswereeitherclosetotheedgeofthestreamthoseofthecalvesdistinguishablefromtheothersor inshallowwater theholesmadeby their feet in thesoftbottombeingvisibleforalongtimeTheywereparticularlynumerouswherethere was a small bay or pokelogan as it is called bordered by a strip ofmeadoworseparatedfromtheriverbya lowpeninsulacoveredwithcoarsegrasswool-grassetcwhereintheyhadwadedbackandforthandeatenthepadsWedetectedtheremainsofoneinsuchaspotAtoneplacewherewelandedtopickupasummerduckwhichmycompanionhadshotJoepeeledacanoebirchforbarkforhishunting-hornHethenaskedifwewerenotgoingtogettheotherduckforhissharpeyeshadseenanotherfallinthebushesalittlefartheralongandmycompanionobtaineditInowbegantonoticethebright red berries of the tree-cranberry which grows eight or ten feet highmingledwiththealdersandcornelalongtheshoreTherewaslesshardwood

thanatfirstAfterproceedingamileandthreequartersbelowthemouthoftheLobsterwereached about sundown a small island at the head of what Joe called theMoosehornDeadwater (theMoosehorn inwhich hewas going to hunt thatnight coming in about threemiles below) andon theupper endof thiswedecidedtocampOnapointatthelowerendlaythecarcassofamoosekilledamonthormorebeforeWeconcludedmerelytoprepareourcampandleaveour baggage here that all might be ready when we returned from moose-huntingThoughIhadnotcomea-huntingandfeltsomecompunctionsaboutaccompanyingthehuntersIwishedtoseeamoosenearathandandwasnotsorry to learn how the Indian managed to kill one I went as reporter orchaplain to the huntersmdashand the chaplain has been known to carry a gunhimselfAfterclearingasmallspaceamidthedensespruceandfir treeswecovered the damp groundwith a shingling of fir twigs andwhile Joewaspreparing his birch horn and pitching his canoemdashfor this had to be donewheneverwestoppedlongenoughtobuildafireandwastheprincipallaborwhichhe tookuponhimself at such timesmdashwecollected fuel for thenightlargewetandrottinglogswhichhadlodgedattheheadoftheislandforourhatchetwastoosmallforeffectivechoppingbutwedidnotkindleafirelestthemooseshouldsmellitJoesetupacoupleofforkedstakesandpreparedhalfadozenpolesreadytocastoneofourblanketsoverincaseitrainedinthe night which precaution however was omitted the next nightWe alsopluckedtheduckswhichhadbeenkilledforbreakfastWhilewewerethusengagedinthetwilightweheardfaintlyfromfardownthe streamwhat sounded like two strokes of awoodchoppers axe echoingdullythroughthegrimsolitudeWearewonttolikenmanysoundsheardatadistanceintheforesttothestrokeofanaxebecausetheyresembleeachotherunderthosecircumstancesandthatistheonewecommonlyhearthereWhenwetoldJoeofthisheexclaimedByGeorgeIllbetthatwasamooseTheymakeanoiselikethatThesesoundsaffectedusstrangelyandbytheirveryresemblancetoafamiliaronewheretheyprobablyhadsodifferentanoriginenhancedtheimpressionofsolitudeandwildnessAt starlightwe dropped down the streamwhichwas a deadwater for threemilesorasfarastheMoosehornJoetellingusthatwemustbeverysilentand he himselfmaking no noisewith his paddle while he urged the canoealongwitheffectiveimpulsesItwasastillnightandsuitableforthispurposemdashforifthereiswindthemoosewillsmellyoumdashandJoewasveryconfidentthatheshouldgetsomeTheHarvestMoonhadjustrisenandits levelraysbegan to light up the forest on our rightwhilewe glided downward in theshadeon the same side against the little breeze thatwas stirringThe loftyspiring topsof the spruceand firwereveryblackagainst the skyandmore

distinct thanbydaycloseborderingthisbroadavenueoneachsideandthebeautyofthesceneasthemoonroseabovetheforestitwouldnotbeeasytodescribeAbatflewoverourheadsandweheardafewfaintnotesofbirdsfromtimetotimeperhapsthemyrtle-birdforoneorthesuddenplungeofamusquashorsawonecrossingthestreambeforeusorheardthesoundofarill emptying in swollen by the recent rainAbout amile below the islandwhen the solitude seemed to be growingmore complete everymomentwesuddenly saw the light and heard the crackling of a fire on the bank anddiscoveredthecampofthetwoexplorerstheystandingbeforeitintheirredshirtsand talkingaloudof theadventuresandprofitsof thedayTheywerejust then speaking of a bargain in which as I understood somebody hadcleared twenty-five dollarsWe glided bywithout speaking close under thebankwithinacoupleofrodsof themandJoe takinghishorn imitatedthecallofthemoosetillwesuggestedthattheymightfireonusThiswasthelastwesawofthemandweneverknewwhethertheydetectedorsuspectedusIhaveoftenwishedsincethatIwaswiththemTheysearchfortimberoveragiven section climbing hills and often high trees to look off explore thestreamsbywhichitistobedrivenandthelikespendfiveorsixweeksinthewoods they two alone a hundred miles or more from any town roamingabout and sleeping on the ground where night overtakes them dependingchiefly on the provisions they carry with them though they do not declinewhatgametheycomeacrossandtheninthefalltheyreturnandmakereporttotheiremployersdeterminingthenumberofteamsthatwillberequiredthefollowing winter Experienced men get three or four dollars a day for thiswork It is a solitary and adventurous life and comes nearest to that of thetrapperoftheWestperhapsTheyworkeverwithagunaswellasanaxelettheir beards grow and livewithout neighbors not on anopenplain but farwithinawildernessThisdiscoveryaccountedfor thesoundswhichwehadheardanddestroyedthe prospect of seeing moose yet awhile At length when we had left theexplorersfarbehindJoelaiddownhispaddledrewforthhisbirchhornmdashastraightoneaboutfifteenincheslongandthreeorfourwideatthemouthtiedroundwithstripsofthesamebarkmdashandstandingupimitatedthecallofthemoosemdashugh-ugh-ughoroo-oo-oo-ooandthenaprolongedoo-o-o-o-o-o-o-o and listened attentively for several minutesWe asked himwhat kind ofnoise he expected to hear He said that if amoose heard it he guessedweshouldfindoutweshouldhearhimcominghalfamileoffhewouldcomeclosetoperhapsintothewaterandmycompanionmustwaittillhegotfairsightandthenaimjustbehindtheshoulderThemooseventureouttotheriversidetofeedanddrinkatnightEarlierintheseasonthehuntersdonotuseahorntocallthemoutbutstealuponthemas

theyarefeedingalongthesidesof thestreamandoftenthefirstnoticetheyhave of one is the sound of thewater dropping from itsmuzzleAn IndianwhomIheardimitatethevoiceofthemooseandalsothatofthecaribouandthedeerusingamuchlongerhornthanJoes toldmethatthefirstcouldbeheard eight or tenmiles sometimes itwas a loud sort of bellowing soundclearer andmore sonorous than the lowing of cattle the caribous a sort ofsnortandthesmalldeerslikethatofalambAtlengthweturneduptheMoosehornwheretheIndiansatthecarryhadtoldusthattheykilledamoosethenightbeforeThisisaverymeanderingstreamonlya rodor two inwidthbut comparativelydeep coming inon the rightfitlyenoughnamedMoosehornwhetherfromitswindingsoritsinhabitantsItwasborderedhere and therebynarrowmeadowsbetween the streamandtheendlessforestaffordingfavorableplacesforthemoosetofeedandtocallthemoutonWeproceededhalfamileupthisas throughanarrowwindingcanalwherethetalldarkspruceandfirsandarbor-vitaeligtoweredonbothsidesinthemoonlightformingaperpendicularforest-edgeofgreatheightlikethespiresofaVeniceintheforestIntwoplacesstoodasmallstackofhayonthebankreadyforthelumberersuseinthewinterlookingstrangeenoughthereWethoughtofthedaywhenthismightbeabrookwindingthroughsmooth-shavenmeadowsonsomegentlemansgroundsandseenbymoonlight thenexceptingtheforestthatnowhemsitinhowlittlechangeditwouldappearAgain and again Joe called the moose placing the canoe close by somefavorable point ofmeadow for them to comeout on but listened in vain tohearonecomerushingthroughthewoodsandconcludedthattheyhadbeenhuntedtoomuchthereaboutsWesawmanytimeswhattoourimaginationslookedlikeagiganticmoosewithhishornspeeringfromouttheforestedgebutwe saw the forest only and not its inhabitants that night So at lastweturnedaboutTherewasnowa little fogon thewater though itwas a fineclear night above Therewere very few sounds to break the stillness of theforestSeveraltimesweheardthehootingofagreathornedowlasathomeand toldJoe thathewouldcallout themoose forhim forhemadeasoundconsiderably like thehorn but Joe answered that themoosehadheard thatsoundathousandtimesandknewbetterandoftenerstillwewerestartledbythe plunge of a musquash Once when Joe had called again and we werelistening for moose we heard come faintly echoing or creeping from farthroughthemoss-cladaislesadulldryrushingsoundwithasolidcoretoityetasifhalfsmotheredunderthegraspoftheluxuriantandfungus-likeforestlike the shutting of a door in some distant entry of the damp and shaggywildernessIfwehadnotbeentherenomortalhadhearditWhenweaskedJoe in awhisperwhat it was he answered Tree fall There is somethingsingularly grand and impressive in the sound of a tree falling in a perfectlycalmnightlikethisasiftheagencieswhichoverthrowitdidnotneedtobe

excitedbutworkedwithasubtledeliberateandconsciousforcelikeaboa-constrictorandmoreeffectivelythenthaneveninawindydayIfthereisanysuchdifferenceperhapsitisbecausetreeswiththedewsofthenightonthemareheavierthanbydayHavingreachedthecampabouttenoclockwekindledourfireandwenttobed Each of us had a blanket in which he lay on the fir twigs with hisextremitiestowardthefirebutnothingoverhisheadItwasworththewhiletoliedowninacountrywhereyoucouldaffordsuchgreatfiresthatwasonewholesideandthebrightsideofourworldWehadfirstrolledupalargelogsomeeighteeninchesthroughandtenfeetlongforabacklogtolastallnightandthenpiledonthetrees to theheightof threeorfourfeetnomatterhowgreen or damp In factwe burned asmuchwood that night aswouldwitheconomy and an air-tight stove last a poor family in one of our cities allwinter Itwasveryagreeableaswellas independent thus lying in theopenair and the fire kept our uncovered extremities warm enough The Jesuitmissionaries used to say that in their journeyswith the Indians inCanadatheylayonabedwhichhadneverbeenshakenupsincethecreationunlessbyearthquakes It is surprising with what impunity and comfort one who hasalwayslaininawarmbedinacloseapartmentandstudiouslyavoideddraftsofaircanliedownonthegroundwithoutashelterrollhimselfinablanketandsleepbeforeafire inafrostyautumnnight justafteralongrain-stormandevencomesoontoenjoyandvaluethefreshairI lay awake awhilewatching the ascent of the sparks through the firs andsometimes their descent in half-extinguished cinders on my blanket Theywereasinterestingasfireworksgoingupinendlesssuccessivecrowdseachafter an explosion in an eager serpentine course some to five or six rodsabove the tree-tops before theywent outWedonot suspect howmuchourchimneyshaveconcealedandnowair-tightstoveshavecometoconcealalltherestInthecourseofthenightIgotuponceortwiceandputfreshlogsonthefiremakingmycompanionscurluptheirlegsWhen we awoke in the morning (Saturday September 17) there wasconsiderablefrostwhiteningtheleavesWeheardthesoundofthechickadeeandafewfaintlylispingbirdsandalsoofducksinthewaterabouttheislandItookabotanicalaccountofstockofourdomainsbeforethedewwasoffandfound that the ground-hemlock or American yew was the prevailingundershrubWebreakfastedonteahard-breadandducksBeforethefoghadfairlyclearedawaywepaddleddownthestreamagainandwere soon past the mouth of the Moosehorn These twenty miles of thePenobscot between Moosehead and Chesuncook lakes are comparativelysmooth and a great part deadwater but from time to time it is shallowandrapid with rocks or gravel beds where you can wade across There is no

expanseofwaterandnobreakintheforestandthemeadowisamereedginghereandthereTherearenohillsneartherivernorwithinsightexceptoneortwodistantmountainsseeninafewplacesThebanksarefromsixtotenfeethighbutonceortwicerisegentlytohighergroundInmanyplacestheforeston the bank was but a thin strip letting the light through from some alderswamp ormeadow behind The conspicuous berry-bearing bushes and treesalong the shore were the red osier with its whitish fruit hobble-bushmountain-ash tree-cranberry choke-cherry now ripe alternate cornel andnakedviburnumFollowingJoesexampleIatethefruitofthelastandalsoof the hobble-bush but found them rather insipid and seedy I looked verynarrowly at the vegetation as we glided along close to the shore andfrequentlymade Joe turn aside forme to pluck a plant that Imight see bycomparisonwhatwasprimitiveaboutmynativeriverHorehoundhorse-mintand the sensitive ferngrewclose to the edge under thewillows and aldersandwool-grassontheislandsasalongtheAssabetRiverinConcordItwastoolateforflowersexceptafewastersgoldenrodsetcInseveralplaceswenoticedtheslightframeofacampsuchaswehadpreparedtosetupamidtheforestby theriversidewheresomelumberersorhuntershadpassedanightandsometimesstepscutinthemuddyorclayeybankinfrontofitWestopped to fish for troutat themouthofa small streamcalledRagmuffwhich came in from thewest about twomiles below theMoosehornHerewere the ruins of an old lumbering-camp and a small space which hadformerlybeenclearedandburnedoverwasnowdenselyovergrownwiththered cherry and raspberriesWhilewewere trying for trout Joe Indian-likewanderedoffuptheRagmuffonhisownerrandsandwhenwewerereadytostartwas farbeyondcallSowewerecompelled tomakea fireandgetourdinner here not to lose time Some dark reddish birdswith grayer females(perhaps purple finches) and myrtle-birds in their summer dress hoppedwithinsixoreightfeetofusandoursmokePerhapstheysmelledthefryingporkThelatterbirdorbothmadethelispingnoteswhichIhadheardintheforestTheysuggestedthatthefewsmallbirdsfoundinthewildernessareonmorefamiliartermswiththelumbermanandhunterthanthoseoftheorchardand clearing with the farmer I have since found the Canada jay andpartridgesboththeblackandthecommonequallytamethereasiftheyhadnotyetlearnedtomistrustmanentirelyThechickadeewhichisathomealikeintheprimitivewoodsandinourwood-lotsstillretainsitsconfidenceinthetownstoaremarkabledegreeJoeatlengthreturnedafteranhourandahalfandsaidthathehadbeentwomilesupthestreamexploringandhadseenamoosebutnothavingthegunhedidnotgethimWemadenocomplaintbutconcludedtolookoutforJoethenext timeHowever thismayhavebeen ameremistake forwehadnoreason to complain of him afterwardsAswe continued down the stream I

wassurprisedtohearhimwhistlingOSusannaandseveralothersuchairswhile his paddle urged us along Once he said Yes sir-ee His commonwordwasSartainHepaddledasusualononesideonlygivingthebirchanimpulsebyusingthesideasafulcrumIaskedhimhowtheribswerefastenedto the side railsHeanswered Idontknow InevernoticedTalkingwithhimaboutsubsistingwhollyonwhatthewoodsyieldedmdashgamefishberriesetcmdashIsuggestedthathisancestorsdidsobutheansweredthathehadbeenbroughtupinsuchawaythathecouldnotdoitYessaidhethatsthewaytheygotalivinglikewildfellowswildasbearsByGeorgeIshantgointothewoodswithout provisionmdashhard-bread pork etcHe had brought on abarrelofhard-breadandstoreditatthecarryforhishuntingHoweverthoughhewasaGovernorssonhehadnotlearnedtoreadAtoneplacebelowthisontheeastsidewherethebankwashigheranddrierthan usual rising gently from the shore to a slight elevation some one hadfelled the trees over twenty or thirty acres and left themdrying in order toburnThiswastheonlypreparationforahousebetweentheMooseheadCarryandChesuncookbut therewasnohutnor inhabitants thereyetThepioneerthusselectsasiteforhishousewhichwillperhapsprovethegermofatownMyeyeswereallthewhileonthetreesdistinguishingbetweentheblackandwhite spruce and the fir You paddle along in a narrow canal through anendless forest and thevision I have inmyminds eye still is of the smalldarkandsharptopsof tall firandsprucetreesandpagoda-likearbor-vitaeligscrowdedtogetheroneachsidewithvarioushardwoodsintermixedSomeofthe arbor-vitaeligs were at least sixty feet high The hard woods occasionallyoccurring exclusivelywere lesswild tomy eye I fancied them ornamentalgrounds with farmhouses in the rear The canoe and yellow birch beechmaple and elm are Saxon and Norman but the spruce and fir and pinesgenerally are Indian The soft engravingswhich adorn the annuals give noideaofastreaminsuchawildernessasthisTheroughsketchesinJacksonsReportsontheGeologyofMaineanswermuchbetterAtoneplacewesawasmallgroveofslendersaplingwhitepinestheonlycollectionofpinesthatIsaw on this voyage Here and there however was a full-grown tall andslender but defective onewhat lumbermen call a konchus treewhich theyascertainwiththeiraxesorbytheknotsIdidnotlearnwhetherthiswordwasIndianorEnglishItremindedmeoftheGreekκόγχηaconchorshellandIamusedmyselfwith fancying that itmightsignify thedeadsoundwhich thetreesyieldwhenstruckAlltherestofthepineshadbeendrivenoffHowfarmengoforthematerialoftheirhousesTheinhabitantsofthemostcivilizedcitiesinallagessendintofarprimitiveforestsbeyondtheboundsoftheircivilizationwherethemooseandbearandsavagedwellfortheirpineboardsforordinaryuseAndontheotherhandthesavagesoonreceivesfrom

citiesironarrow-pointshatchetsandgunstopointhissavagenesswithThe solidandwell-defined fir-tops like sharpand regular spearheadsblackagainst the sky gave a peculiar dark and sombre look to the forest Thespruce-tops have a similar butmore ragged outline their shafts alsomerelyfeatheredbelowThefirsweresomewhatoftenerregularanddensepyramidsI was struck by this universal spiring upward of the forest evergreens Thetendencyis toslenderspiringtopswhiletheyarenarrowerbelowNotonlythe spruce and fir but even the arbor-vitaelig and white pine unlike the softspreading second-growth of which I saw none all spire upwards lifting adensespearheadofconestothelightandairatanyratewhiletheirbranchesstraggleafterastheymayasIndianslifttheballovertheheadsofthecrowdin their desperate game In this they resemble grasses as also palmssomewhatThehemlockiscommonlyatent-likepyramidfromthegroundtoitssummitAfter passing through some long rips and by a large islandwe reached aninterestingpartoftherivercalledthePineStreamDeadwateraboutsixmilesbelow Ragmuff where the river expanded to thirty rods in width and hadmany islands in it with elms and canoe-birches now yellowing along theshoreandwegotourfirstsightofKtaadnHereabouttwooclockweturnedupasmallbranchthreeorfourrodswidewhichcomes inon the right from the south calledPineStream to look formoose signsWe had gone but a few rods beforewe saw very recent signsalongthewatersedge themudliftedupby their feetbeingquitefreshandJoedeclaredthattheyhadgonealongtherebutashorttimebeforeWesoonreachedasmallmeadowontheeastsideatanangleinthestreamwhichwasfor themostpartdenselycoveredwithaldersAswewereadvancingalongthe edge of this rathermore quietly than usual perhaps on account of thefreshnessofthesignsmdashthedesignbeingtocampupthisstreamifitpromisedwellmdashIheardaslightcracklingoftwigsdeepinthealdersandturnedJoesattention to itwhereuponhebegan topush the canoeback rapidly andwehad receded thus half a dozen rods when we suddenly spied two moosestanding just on the edge of the open part of the meadow which we hadpassednotmorethansixorsevenrodsdistantlookingroundthealdersatusTheymademethinkofgreatfrightenedrabbitswiththeirlongearsandhalf-inquisitive half-frightened looks the true denizens of the forest (I saw atonce) fillingavacuumwhichnow first Idiscoveredhadnotbeen filled formemdashmoose-menwood-eaters theword is said tomeanmdashclad in a sort ofVermontgrayorhomespunOurNimrodowingtotheretrogrademovementwasnowthefarthestfromthegamebutbeingwarnedofitsneighborhoodhehastilystoodupandwhileweduckedfiredoverourheadsonebarrelattheforemostwhichalonehesawthoughhedidnotknowwhatkindofcreatureit

waswhereuponthisonedashedacrossthemeadowandupahighbankonthenortheastsorapidlyastoleavebutanindistinctimpressionofitsoutlinesonmymindAt thesame instant theotherayoungonebutas tallasahorseleaped out into the stream in full sight and there stood cowering for amomentorratheritsdisproportionatelownessbehindgaveitthatappearanceandutteringtwoorthreetrumpetingsqueaksIhaveanindistinctrecollectionofseeingtheoldonepauseaninstantonthetopofthebankinthewoodslooktowarditsshiveringyoungandthendashawayagainThesecondbarrelwasleveledat thecalfandwhenweexpected tosee itdrop in thewaterafteralittlehesitationittoogotoutofthewateranddashedupthehillthoughinasomewhatdifferentdirectionAllthiswastheworkofafewsecondsandourhunterhavingneverseenamoosebeforedidnotknowbut theyweredeerfor they stoodpartly in thewaternorwhetherhehad firedat the sameonetwiceornotFromthestyleinwhichtheywentoffandthefactthathewasnotusedtostandingupandfiringfromacanoeIjudgedthatweshouldnotseeanythingmoreofthemTheIndiansaidthattheywereacowandhercalfmdasha yearling or perhaps two years old for they accompany their dams solongbutformypartIhadnotnoticedmuchdifferenceintheirsizeItwasbuttwoorthreerodsacrossthemeadowtothefootofthebankwhichlikealltheworldthereaboutswasdenselywoodedbutIwassurprisedtonoticethatassoonas themoosehadpassedbehindtheveilof thewoods therewasnosoundof footsteps tobeheard from the soft dampmosswhich carpets thatforest and long beforewe landed perfect silence reigned Joe said If youwoundemmoosemesuregetemWealllandedatonceMycompanionreloadedtheIndianfastenedhisbirchthrewoffhishatadjustedhiswaistbandseized thehatchetandsetoutHetoldmeafterwardcasuallythatbeforewelandedhehadseenadropofbloodonthebankwhenitwastwoor threerodsoffHeproceededrapidlyupthebank and through thewoodswith a peculiar elastic noiseless and stealthytreadlookingtorightandleftonthegroundandsteppinginthefainttracksof thewoundedmoosenowand thenpointing insilence toasingledropofblood on the handsome shining leaves of the Clintonia borealis which onevery side covered thegroundor toadry fern stem freshlybroken all thewhile chewing some leaf or else the spruce gum I followed watching hismotionsmorethanthetrailofthemooseAfterfollowingthetrailaboutfortyrodsinaprettydirectcoursesteppingoverfallentreesandwindingbetweenstanding ones he at length lost it for there weremany other moose-tracksthereandreturningoncemoretothelastblood-staintraceditalittlewayandlostitagainandtoosoonIthoughtforagoodhuntergaveitupentirelyHetraced a few steps also the tracks of the calf but seeing no blood soonrelinquishedthesearchIobservedwhilehewastrackingthemooseacertainreticenceormoderation

in him He did not communicate several observations of interest which hemade as a whitemanwould have done though theymay have leaked outafterwardAtanothertimewhenweheardaslightcracklingoftwigsandhelanded to reconnoitrehe stepped lightlyandgracefully stealing through thebusheswiththeleastpossiblenoiseinawayinwhichnowhitemandoesmdashasitwerefindingaplaceforhisfooteachtimeAbout half an hour after seeing themoosewe pursued our voyage upPineStreamandsooncomingtoapartwhichwasveryshoalandalsorapidwetookoutthebaggageandproceededtocarryitroundwhileJoegotupwiththecanoealoneWewerejustcompletingourportageandIwasabsorbedintheplantsadmiringtheleavesoftheAstermacrophyllustenincheswideandpluckingtheseedsofthegreatround-leavedorchiswhenJoeexclaimedfromthe stream that he had killed amoose He had found the cowmoose lyingdeadbutquitewarminthemiddleofthestreamwhichwassoshallowthatitrestedonthebottomwithhardlyathirdofitsbodyabovewaterItwasaboutan hour after itwas shot and itwas swollenwithwater It had run about ahundredrodsandsoughtthestreamagaincuttingoffaslightbendNodoubtabetterhunterwouldhavetrackedittothisspotatonceIwassurprisedatitsgreat size horse-like but Joe said it was not a large cow moose Mycompanion went in search of the calf again I took hold of the ears of themoosewhileJoepushedhiscanoedown-streamtowardafavorableshoreandsowemadeoutthoughwithsomedifficultyitslongnosefrequentlystickinginthebottomtodragitintostillshallowerwaterItwasabrownish-blackorperhaps a dark iron-gray on the back and sides but lighter beneath and infront I took the cord which served for the canoes painter and with Joesassistance measured it carefully the greatest distances first making a knoteachtimeThepainterbeingwantedIreducedthesemeasuresthatnightwithequal care to lengths and fractions of my umbrella beginning with thesmallestmeasuresanduntyingtheknotsasIproceededandwhenwearrivedatChesuncookthenextdayfindingatwo-footrulethereIreducedthelasttofeet and inches andmoreover Imademyself a two-foot ruleof a thin andnarrowstripofblackashwhichwouldfoldupconvenientlytosixinchesAllthispains I tookbecause Ididnotwish tobeobliged tosaymerely that themoose was very large Of the various dimensions which I obtained I willmention only two The distance from the tips of the hoofs of the fore feetstretchedouttothetopofthebackbetweentheshoulderswassevenfeetandfive inches Icanhardlybelievemyownmeasure for this isabout two feetgreater than the height of a tall horse (Indeed I am now satisfied that thismeasurementwasincorrectbuttheothermeasuresgivenhereIcanwarranttobe correct having proved them in amore recent visit to thosewoods) Theextreme lengthwas eight feet and two inchesAnother cowmoosewhich Ihavesincemeasuredinthosewoodswithatapewasjustsixfeetfromthetip

ofthehooftotheshouldersandeightfeetlongasshelayWhenafterwardIaskedanIndianatthecarryhowmuchtallerthemalewasheansweredEighteeninchesandmademeobservetheheightofacross-stakeoverthefiremorethanfourfeetfromthegroundtogivemesomeideaofthedepthofhischestAnotherIndianatOldtowntoldmethattheywereninefeethightothetopofthebackandthatonewhichhetriedweighedeighthundredpoundsThelengthofthespinalprojectionsbetweentheshouldersisverygreatAwhitehunterwhowas thebestauthorityamonghunters that Icould have told me that the male was not eighteen inches taller than thefemaleyetheagreedthathewassometimesninefeethighto the topof thebackandweighedathousandpoundsOnlythemalehashornsandtheyrisetwo feet or more above the shouldersmdashspreading three or four andsometimes six feetmdashwhichwouldmake him in all sometimes eleven feethighAccordingtothiscalculationthemooseisastallthoughitmaynotbeas large as thegreat Irish elkMegacerosHibernicus of a formerperiod ofwhichMantellsaysthatitveryfarexceededinmagnitudeanylivingspeciesthe skeletonbeing upwardof ten feethigh from theground to thehighestpoint of the antlers Joe said that though themoose shed thewhole hornannuallyeachnewhornhasanadditionalprongbutIhavenoticedthattheysometimeshavemoreprongsononesidethanontheotherIwasstruckwiththedelicacyandtendernessofthehoofswhichdivideveryfarupandtheonehalfcouldbepressedverymuchbehind theother thusprobablymaking theanimalsurer-footedontheunevengroundandslipperymoss-coveredlogsoftheprimitive forestTheywereveryunlike the stiff andbattered feetofourhorsesandoxenThebarehornypartoftheforefootwasjustsixincheslongandthetwoportionscouldbeseparatedfourinchesattheextremitiesThe moose is singularly grotesque and awkward to look atWhy should itstandsohighattheshouldersWhyhavesolongaheadWhyhavenotailtospeakofforinmyexaminationIoverlookeditentirelyNaturalistssayit isaninchandahalflongItremindedmeatonceofthecamelopardhighbeforeand lowbehindmdashandnowonder for like it it is fitted tobrowseon treesThe upper lip projected two inches beyond the lower for this purpose ThiswasthekindofmanthatwasathomethereforasnearasIcanlearnthathasnever been the residence but rather the hunting-ground of the Indian ThemoosewillperhapsonedaybecomeextinctbuthownaturallythenwhenitexistsonlyasafossilrelicandunseenasthatmaythepoetorsculptorinventafabulousanimalwithsimilarbranchingandleafyhornsmdashasortoffucusorlicheninbonemdashtobetheinhabitantofsuchaforestasthisHerejustattheheadofthemurmuringrapidsJoenowproceededtoskinthemoosewithapocket-knifewhileIlookedonandatragicalbusinessitwasmdashto see that still warm and palpitating body pierced with a knife to see the

warm milk stream from the rent udder and the ghastly naked red carcassappearing fromwithin its seemly robewhichwasmade tohide itTheballhadpassed through the shoulder-bladediagonallyand lodgedunder the skinon the opposite side andwas partially flattenedMy companion keeps it toshowtohisgrandchildrenHehastheshanksofanothermoosewhichhehassince shot skinnedand stuffed ready tobemade intobootsbyputting in athickleathersoleJoesaidifamoosestoodfrontingyouyoumustnotfirebutadvancetowardhimforhewillturnslowlyandgiveyouafairshotInthebedofthisnarrowwildandrockystreambetweentwoloftywallsofspruceandfirsamerecleftintheforestwhichthestreamhadmadethisworkwentonAtlengthJoehadstrippedoffthehideanddraggedittrailingtotheshoredeclaringthatitweighedahundredpoundsthoughprobablyfiftywouldhavebeennearerthetruthHecutoffalargemassofthemeattocarryalongandanothertogetherwiththetongueandnoseheputwiththehideontheshoretoliethereallnightortillwereturnedIwassurprisedthathethoughtofleavingthismeatthusexposedbythesideofthecarcassasthesimplestcoursenotfearing that any creaturewould touch it but nothing didThis could hardlyhave happened on the bank of one of our rivers in the eastern part ofMassachusettsbutIsuspectthatfewersmallwildanimalsareprowlingtherethanwithusTwicehoweverinthisexcursionIhadaglimpseofaspeciesoflargemouseThis streamwassowithdrawnand themoose-trackswereso fresh thatmycompanionsstillbentonhuntingconcludedtogofartherupitandcampandthenhuntupordownatnightHalfamileabovethisataplacewhereIsawtheAsterpuniceusandthebeakedhazelaswepaddledalongJoehearingaslightrustlingamidthealdersandseeingsomethingblackabouttworodsoffjumped up andwhispered Bear but before the hunter had discharged hispiece he corrected himself to BeavermdashHedgehog The bullet killed alarge hedgehog more than two feet and eight inches long The quills wererayedoutandflattenedonthehinderpartofitsbackevenasifithadlainonthat part but were erect and long between this and the tail Their pointscloselyexaminedwereseen tobefinelybeardedorbarbedandshapedlikeanawlthatisalittleconcavetogivethebarbseffectAfteraboutamileofstill water we prepared our camp on the right side just at the foot of aconsiderablefallLittlechoppingwasdonethatnightforfearofscaringthemooseWehadmoosemeat fried for supper It tasted like tenderbeefwithperhapsmoreflavormdashsometimeslikevealAfter supper the moon having risen we proceeded to hunt a mile up thisstreamfirstcarryingaboutthefallsWemadeapicturesquesightwendingsinglefilealongtheshoreclimbingoverrocksandlogsJoewhobroughtupthereartwirlinghiscanoeinhishandsasifitwereafeatherinplaceswhereitwas difficult to get alongwithout a burdenWe launched the canoe again

fromtheledgeoverwhichthestreamfellbutafterhalfamileofstillwatersuitable forhunting itbecamerapidagainandwewerecompelled tomakeourwayalong the shorewhile Joeendeavored togetup in thebirchalonethoughitwasstillverydifficultforhimtopickhiswayamidtherocksinthenightWeon theshorefound theworstofwalkingaperfectchaosof fallenand drifted trees and of bushes projecting far over thewater and now andthen wemade our way across the mouth of a small tributary on a kind ofnetworkof aldersSowewent tumblingon in thedark beingon the shadysideeffectuallyscaringallthemooseandbearsthatmightbethereaboutsAtlengthwe came to a standstill and Joewent forward to reconnoitre but hereportedthat itwasstillacontinuousrapidasfarashewentorhalfamilewithnoprospectofimprovementasifitwerecomingdownfromamountainSoweturnedabouthuntingbacktothecampthroughthestillwaterItwasasplendid moonlight night and I getting sleepy as it grew latemdashfor I hadnothing to domdashfound it difficult to realize where I was This stream wasmuchmore unfrequented than themain one lumbering operations being nolongercarriedonin thisquarter Itwasonly threeorfourrodswidebut thefirsandsprucethroughwhichittrickledseemedyettallerbycontrastBeinginthisdreamystatewhichthemoonlightenhancedIdidnotclearlydiscernthe shore but seemedmost of the time to be floating through ornamentalgroundsmdashforIassociatedthefir-topswithsuchscenesmdashveryhighupsomeBroadway and beneath or between their tops I thought I saw an endlesssuccession of porticoes and columns cornices and faccedilades verandas andchurches I did notmerely fancy this but inmy drowsy state suchwas theillusion I fairly lost myself in sleep several times still dreaming of thatarchitectureandthenobilitythatdweltbehindandmightissuefromitbutallatonceIwouldbearousedandbroughtbacktoasenseofmyactualpositionby the sound of Joes birch horn in themidst of all this silence calling themooseughughoo-oo-oo-oo-oo-oo and Iprepared tohear a furiousmoosecomerushingandcrashingthroughtheforestandseehimburstoutontothelittlestripofmeadowbyoursideButonmoreaccountsthanoneIhadhadenoughofmoose-huntingIhadnotcometothewoodsforthispurposenorhadIforeseenit thoughIhadbeenwillingtolearnhowtheIndianmanœuvredbutonemoosekilledwasasgoodif not as bad as a dozen The afternoons tragedy andmy share in it as itaffected the innocence destroyed the pleasure ofmy adventure It is true IcameasnearasispossibletocometobeingahunterandmissitmyselfandasitisIthinkthatIcouldspendayearinthewoodsfishingandhuntingjustenoughtosustainmyselfwithsatisfactionThiswouldbenexttolivinglikeaphilosopheronthefruitsoftheearthwhichyouhadraisedwhichalsoattractsmeButthishuntingofthemoosemerelyforthesatisfactionofkillinghimmdashnotevenforthesakeofhishidemdashwithoutmakinganyextraordinaryexertion

or running any risk yourself is too much like going out by night to somewood-sidepastureandshootingyourneighborshorsesTheseareGodsownhorsespoor timidcreatures thatwill runfastenoughassoonas theysmellyouthoughtheyareninefeethighJoetoldusofsomehunterswhoayearortwo before had shot down several oxen by night somewhere in theMainewoodsmistakingthemformooseAndsomightanyofthehuntersandwhatisthedifferenceinthesportbutthenameIntheformercasehavingkilledoneofGodsandyourownoxenyoustripoff itshidemdashbecause that is thecommon trophy and moreover you have heard that it may be sold formoccasinsmdashcutasteakfromitshaunchesandleavethehugecarcasstosmelltoheavenforyouItisnobetteratleastthantoassistataslaughter-houseThis afternoons experience suggested to me how base or coarse are themotiveswhich commonly carrymen into thewilderness The explorers andlumberersgenerallyareallhirelingspaidsomuchadayfortheirlaborandassuch they have no more love for wild nature than wood-sawyers have forforests Other whitemen and Indians who come here are for themost parthunters whose object is to slay as manymoose and other wild animals aspossibleButpraycouldnotonespendsomeweeksoryearsinthesolitudeofthis vast wilderness with other employments than thesemdashemploymentsperfectlysweetandinnocentandennoblingForonethatcomeswithapencilto sketch or sing a thousand comewith an axe or rifleWhat a coarse andimperfectuseIndiansandhuntersmakeofnatureNowonderthattheirraceisso soonexterminated I alreadyand forweeksafterward feltmynature thecoarser for thispartofmywoodlandexperienceandwas reminded thatourlifeshouldbelivedastenderlyanddaintilyasonewouldpluckaflowerWiththesethoughtswhenwereachedourcamping-groundIdecidedtoleavemycompanionstocontinuemoose-huntingdownthestreamwhileIpreparedthecampthoughtheyrequestedmenottochopmuchnormakealargefireforfearIshouldscaretheirgameInthemidstofthedampfirwoodhighonthemossybankaboutnineoclockofthisbrightmoonlightnightIkindledafirewhen theyweregone and sittingon the fir twigswithin soundof thefallsexaminedbyitslightthebotanicalspecimenswhichIhadcollectedthatafternoon and wrote down some of the reflections which I have hereexpanded or I walked along the shore and gazed up the streamwhere thewholespaceabovethefallswasfilledwithmellowlightAsIsatbeforethefireonmyfir-twigseatwithoutwallsaboveoraroundmeIrememberedhowfar on every hand that wilderness stretched before you came to cleared orcultivatedfieldsandwonderedifanybearormoosewaswatchingthelightofmyfire forNature lookedsternlyuponmeonaccountof themurderof themooseStrange that so few ever come to thewoods to see how the pine lives and

grows and spires lifting its evergreen arms to the lightmdashto see its perfectsuccessbutmostarecontenttobeholditintheshapeofmanybroadboardsbrought tomarket and deem that its true success But the pine is nomorelumberthanmanisandtobemadeintoboardsandhousesisnomoreitstrueandhighestusethanthetruestuseofamanistobecutdownandmadeintomanureThereisahigherlawaffectingourrelationtopinesaswellastomenApinecutdownadeadpineisnomoreapinethanadeadhumancarcassisamanCanhewhohasdiscoveredonlysomeof thevaluesofwhaleboneandwhaleoilbesaid tohavediscovered the trueuseof thewhaleCanhewhoslaystheelephantforhisivorybesaidtohaveseentheelephantThesearepettyandaccidentalusesjustasifastrongerraceweretokillusinordertomakebuttonsandflageoletsofourbonesforeverythingmayservealoweraswellasahigheruseEverycreatureisbetteralivethandeadmenandmooseand pine trees and hewhounderstands it arightwill rather preserve its lifethandestroyitIs it the lumberman then who is the friend and lover of the pine standsnearesttoitandunderstandsitsnaturebestIsitthetannerwhohasbarkeditorhewhohasboxeditforturpentinewhomposteritywillfabletohavebeenchangedintoapineatlastNonoitisthepoetheitiswhomakesthetruestuseofthepinewhodoesnotfondleitwithanaxenortickleitwithasawnorstrokeitwithaplanewhoknowswhetheritsheartisfalsewithoutcuttingintoitwhohasnotbought thestumpageof the townshiponwhich itstandsAllthepines shudder andheavea sighwhen thatman stepson the forest floorNoitisthepoetwholovesthemashisownshadowintheairandletsthemstand I have been into the lumber-yard and the carpenters shop and thetannery and the lampblack factory and the turpentine clearing butwhen atlengthIsawthetopsofthepineswavingandreflectingthelightatadistancehigh over all the rest of the forest I realized that the former were not thehighestuseofthepineItisnottheirbonesorhideortallowthatIlovemostIt is the living spirit of the tree not its spirit of turpentine with which IsympathizeandwhichhealsmycutsItisasimmortalasIamandperchancewillgotoashighaheaventheretotowerabovemestillErelongthehuntersreturnednothavingseenamoosebutinconsequenceofmysuggestionsbringingaquarterofthedeadonewhichwithourselvesmadequitealoadforthecanoeAfterbreakfastingonmoosemeatwereturneddownPineStreamonourwaytoChesuncookLakewhichwasaboutfivemilesdistantWecouldseetheredcarcassof themoose lying inPineStreamwhennearlyhalf amileoff Justbelowthemouthofthisstreamwerethemostconsiderablerapidsbetweenthetwo lakes called Pine Stream Falls where were large flat rocks washedsmooth and at this time you could easilywade across above them Joe ran

down alone while we walked over the portage my companion collectingsprucegumforhisfriendsathomeandIlookingforflowersNearthelakewhich we were approaching with as much expectation as if it had been auniversitymdashfor it is not often that the stream of our life opens into suchexpansionsmdashwereislandsandalowandmeadowyshorewithscatteredtreesbircheswhiteandyellowslantedover thewaterandmaplesmdashmanyof thewhitebircheskilledapparentlybyinundationsTherewasconsiderablenativegrassandevenafewcattlemdashwhosemovementsweheardthoughwedidnotseethemmistakingthematfirstformoosemdashwerepasturedthereOnenteringthelakewherethestreamrunssoutheasterlyandforsometimebeforewehadaviewof themountains aboutKtaadn (Katahdinauquohonesays theyarecalled) likea clusterofblue fungiof rankgrowth apparentlytwenty-five or thirty miles distant in a southeast direction their summitsconcealedbyclouds Joecalled someof them theSowadnehunkMountainsThis is the name of a stream there which another Indian told us meantrunning betweenmountains Though some lower summits were afterwarduncoveredwe got nomore complete viewofKtaadnwhilewewere in thewoodsTheclearingtowhichwewereboundwasontherightofthemouthoftheriverandwasreachedbygoingrounda lowpointwhere thewaterwasshallow to a great distance from the shore Chesuncook Lake extendsnorthwest and southeast and is called eighteen miles long and three widewithoutan islandWehadentered thenorthwestcornerof itandwhennearthe shore could see only partway down it The principalmountains visiblefromthelandherewerethosealreadymentionedbetweensoutheastandeastandafewsummitsalittlewestofnorthbutgenerallythenorthandnorthwesthorizonabouttheStJohnandtheBritishboundarywascomparativelylevelAnsellSmithstheoldestandprincipalclearingaboutthislakeappearedtobequiteaharborforbatteauxandcanoessevenoreightoftheformerwerelyingaboutandtherewasasmallscowforhayandacapstanonaplatformnowhighanddryreadytobefloatedandanchoredtotowraftswithItwasaveryprimitivekindofharborwhereboatsweredrawnupamidthestumpsmdashsuchaonemethoughtastheArgomighthavebeenlaunchedinTherewerefiveotherhutswithsmallclearingsontheoppositesideofthelakeallatthisendandvisiblefromthispointOneoftheSmithstoldmethatitwassofarclearedthat they came here to live and built the present house four years beforethoughthefamilyhadbeenherebutafewmonthsIwasinterestedtoseehowapioneerlivedonthissideofthecountryHislifeisinsomerespectsmoreadventurousthanthatofhisbrotherintheWestforhe contends with winter as well as the wilderness and there is a greaterintervalof timeat leastbetweenhimand the armywhich is to followHereimmigrationisatidewhichmayebbwhenithassweptawaythepinesthereit

is not a tide but an inundation and roads and other improvements comesteadilyrushingafterAsweapproachedtheloghouseadozenrodsfromthelakeandconsiderablyelevated above it the projecting ends of the logs lapping over each otherirregularlyseveralfeetatthecornersgaveitaveryrichandpicturesquelookfarremovedfromthemeannessofweather-boardsItwasaveryspaciouslowbuildingabouteightyfeetlongwithmanylargeapartmentsThewallswerewellclayedbetweenthelogswhichwerelargeandroundexceptontheupperand under sides and as visible inside as out successive bulging cheeksgradually lessening upwards and tuned to each other with the axe likePandeanpipesProbablythemusicalforestgodshadnotyetcastthemasidethey never do till they are split or the bark is gone It was a style ofarchitecturenotdescribedbyVitruviusIsuspectthoughpossiblyhintedatinthebiographyofOrpheusnoneofyourfrilledorflutedcolumnswhichhavecutsuchafalseswellandsupportnothingbutagableendandtheirbuilderspretensionsmdashthat iswith themultitude andas for ornamentationoneofthosewordswith a dead tailwhich architects very properly use to describetheirflourishestherewerethelichensandmossesandfringesofbarkwhichnobody troubledhimselfaboutWecertainly leave thehandsomestpaintandclapboards behind in the woods when we strip off the bark and poisonourselveswithwhite-leadinthetownsWegetbuthalfthespoilsoftheforestFor beauty give me trees with the fur on This house was designed andconstructed with the freedom of stroke of a foresters axe without othercompass and square thanNature usesWherever the logswere cut off by awindowordoorthatiswerenotkeptinplacebyalternateoverlappingtheywereheldoneuponanotherbyverylargepinsdrivenindiagonallyoneachsidewherebranchesmighthavebeenandthencutoffsocloseupanddownasnottoprojectbeyondthebulgeofthelogasifthelogsclaspedeachotherintheirarmsTheselogswerepostsstudsboardsclapboardslathsplasterandnailsallinoneWherethecitizenusesameresliverorboardthepioneerusesthewholetrunkofatreeThehousehadlargestonechimneysandwasroofedwithspruce-barkThewindowswereimportedallbutthecasingsOneendwasaregularloggerscampfortheboarderswiththeusualfirfloorandlogbenchesThusthishousewasbutaslightdeparturefromthehollowtreewhichthebearstillinhabitsmdashbeingahollowmadewithtreespiledupwithacoatingofbarklikeitsoriginalThe cellarwas a separate building like an ice-house and it answered for arefrigerator at this seasonourmoosemeatbeingkept there Itwasapotatohole with a permanent roof Each structure and institution here was soprimitive that you could at once refer it to its source but our buildingscommonly suggest neither their origin nor their purposeTherewas a largeandwhatfarmerswouldcallhandsomebarnpartofwhoseboardshadbeen

sawedby awhip-saw and the saw-pitwith its great pile of dust remainedbeforethehouseThelongsplitshinglesonaportionofthebarnwerelaidafoottotheweathersuggestingwhatkindofweathertheyhavethereGrantsbarn at Caribou Lake was said to be still larger the biggest ox-nest in thewoodsfiftyfeetbyahundredThinkofamonsterbarninthatprimitiveforestliftingitsgraybackabovethetree-topsManmakesverymuchsuchanestforhisdomesticanimalsofwitheredgrassandfodderasthesquirrelsandmanyotherwildcreaturesdoforthemselvesTherewasalsoablacksmiths shopwhereplainlyagooddealofworkwasdoneTheoxenandhorsesusedinlumberingoperationswereshodandalltheiron-workofsledsetcwasrepairedormadehereIsawthemloadabatteauattheMooseheadCarrythenextTuesdaywithaboutthirteenhundredweightof bar iron for this shop This remindedme howprimitive and honorable atradewasVulcansIdonothearthattherewasanycarpenterortailoramongthegodsThesmithseemstohaveprecededtheseandeveryothermechanicatChesuncook as well as on Olympus and his family is the most widelydispersedwhetherhebechristenedJohnorAnsellSmith owned twomiles down the lake by half amile inwidthTherewereaboutonehundredacresclearedhereHecutseventytonsofEnglishhaythisyearon thisgroundand twentymoreonanotherclearingandheuses itallhimselfinlumberingoperationsThebarnwascrowdedwithpressedhayandamachinetopressitTherewasalargegardenfullofrootsmdashturnipsbeetscarrotspotatoesetcallofgreatsizeTheysaidthattheywereworthasmuchhereasinNewYorkIsuggestedsomecurrantsforsauceespeciallyastheyhadnoappletreessetoutandshowedhoweasilytheycouldbeobtainedThere was the usual long-handled axe of the primitive woods by the doorthreeandahalffeetlongmdashformynewblack-ashrulewasinconstantusemdashandalargeshaggydogwhosenosereportsaidwasfullofporcupinequillsI can testify that he looked very sober This is the usual fortune of pioneerdogsfortheyhavetofacethebruntofthebattlefortheirraceandactthepartofArnoldWinkelriedwithoutintendingitIfheshouldinviteoneofhistownfriendsupthiswaysuggestingmoosemeatandunlimitedfreedomthelattermight pertinently inquire What is that sticking in your nose When agenerationortwohaveusedupalltheenemiesdartstheirsuccessorsleadacomparativelyeasylifeWeowetoourfathersanalogousblessingsManyoldpeople receive pensions for no other reason it seems to me but as acompensationforhavinglivedalongtimeagoNodoubtourtowndogsstilltalkinasnufflingwayaboutthedaysthattrieddogsnosesHowtheygotacat up there I donotknow for they are as shy asmyaunt about entering acanoeIwonderedthatshedidnotrunupatreeonthewaybutperhapsshewasbewilderedbytheverycrowdofopportunities

TwentyorthirtylumberersYankeeandCanadianwerecomingandgoingmdashAleckamongtherestmdashandfromtimetotimeanIndiantouchedhereInthewinter there are sometimes a hundred men lodged here at once The mostinterestingpieceofnewsthatcirculatedamongthemappearedtobethatfourhorsesbelongingtoSmithworthsevenhundreddollarshadpassedbyfartherintothewoodsaweekbeforeThewhite pine treewas at the bottomor farther end of all this It is awaragainstthepinestheonlyrealAroostookorPenobscotwarIhavenodoubtthattheylivedprettymuchthesamesortoflifeintheHomericageformenhavealwaysthoughtmoreofeatingthanoffightingthenasnowtheirmindsranchieflyonthehotbreadandsweetcakesandthefurandlumbertradeisanoldstorytoAsiaandEuropeIdoubtifmenevermadeatradeofheroismIn the days ofAchilles even they delighted in big barns and perchance inpressedhayandhewhopossessedthemostvaluableteamwasthebestfellowWehaddesignedtogoonateveninguptheCaucomgomocwhosemouthwasamileor twodistant to the lakeof thesamenameabout tenmilesoffbutsome Indians of Joes acquaintance who were making canoes on theCaucomgomoccameoverfromthatsideandgavesopooranaccountofthemoose-hunting so many had been killed there lately that my companionsconcluded not to go there Joe spent this Sunday and the night with hisacquaintancesThelumbererstoldmethatthereweremanymoosehereaboutsbutnocaribouordeerAmanfromOldtownhadkilledtenortwelvemoosewithinayear sonear thehouse that theyheardallhisgunsHisnamemayhavebeenHerculesforaughtIknowthoughIshouldratherhaveexpectedtohear the rattling of his club but no doubt he keeps pace with theimprovementsoftheageandusesaSharpsriflenowprobablyhegetsallhisarmor made and repaired at Smiths shop One moose had been killed andanother shot at within sight of the house within two years I do not knowwhetherSmithhasyetgotapoettolookafterthecattlewhichonaccountoftheearlybreakingupoftheicearecompelledtosummerinthewoodsbutIwouldsuggestthisofficetosuchofmyacquaintancesaslovetowriteversesandgoa-gunningAfter a dinner at which apple-saucewas the greatest luxury tome but ourmoose meat was oftenest called for by the lumberers I walked across theclearingintotheforestsouthwardreturningalongtheshoreFormydessertIhelpedmyself to a large slice of theChesuncookwoods and took a heartydraughtofitswaterswithallmysensesThewoodswereasfreshandfullofvegetable life as a lichen in wet weather and contained many interestingplantsbutunlesstheyareofwhitepinetheyaretreatedwithaslittlerespecthere as amildew and in the other case they are only themore quickly cutdownTheshorewasofcoarseflatslaterocksofteninslabswiththesurf

beatingonitTherocksandbleacheddrift-logsextendingsomewayintotheshaggywoodsshowedariseandfallofsixoreightfeetcausedpartlybythedamattheoutletTheysaidthatinwinterthesnowwasthreefeetdeeponalevelhereandsometimesfourorfivemdashthattheiceonthelakewastwofeetthick clear and four feet including the snow-ice Icehad already formed invesselsWe lodgedhere thisSundaynight in a comfortablebedroomapparently thebest one and all that I noticed unusual in the nightmdashfor I still kept takingnoteslikeaspyinthecampmdashwasthecreakingofthethinsplitboardswhenanyofourneighborsstirredSuchwerethefirstrudebeginningsofatownTheyspokeofthepracticabilityof awinter road to theMooseheadCarrywhichwould not costmuch andwouldconnect themwithsteamandstagingandall thebusyworldIalmostdoubted if the lakewould be theremdashthe self-same lakemdashpreserve its formand identitywhen theshoresshouldbeclearedandsettledas if these lakesandstreamswhichexplorersreportneverawaitedtheadventofthecitizenThe sight of one of these frontier houses built of these great logs whoseinhabitants have unflinchingly maintained their ground many summers andwinters in thewilderness remindsme of famous forts like Ticonderoga orCrown Point which have sustained memorable sieges They are especiallywinter-quartersandatthisseasonthisonehadapartiallydesertedlookasifthesiegewereraisedalittlethesnowbanksbeingmeltedfrombeforeitanditsgarrisonaccordingly reduced I thinkof theirdaily foodas rationsmdashit iscalledsuppliesaBibleandagreatcoataremunitionsofwaranda singleman seen about the premises is a sentinel on duty You expect that hewillrequirethecountersignandwillperchancetakeyouforEthanAllencometodemandthesurrenderofhisfortinthenameoftheContinentalCongressItisa sortof ranger serviceArnoldsexpedition isadailyexperiencewith thesesettlersTheycanprovethattheywereoutatalmostanytimeandIthinkthatallthefirstgenerationofthemdeserveapensionmorethananythatwenttotheMexicanwarEarly the next morning we started on our return up the Penobscot mycompanionwishingtogoabouttwenty-fivemilesabovetheMooseheadCarrytoacampnear the junctionof the twoforksand lookformoose thereOurhostallowedussomethingforthequarterofthemoosewhichwehadbroughtandwhichhewasgladtogetTwoexplorersfromChamberlainLakestartedatthesametimethatwedidRedflannelshirtsshouldbeworninthewoodsifonlyforthefinecontrastwhichthiscolormakeswiththeevergreensandthewater Thus I thoughtwhen I saw the forms of the explorers in their birchpolingup the rapids before us far off against the forest It is the surveyorscoloralsomostdistinctlyseenunderallcircumstancesWestoppedtodineat

Ragmuff as beforeMy companion it was whowandered up the stream tolookformoosethistimewhileJoewenttosleeponthebanksothatwefeltsureofhimandIimprovedtheopportunitytobotanizeandbatheSoonafterstartingagainwhileJoewasgonebackinthecanoeforthefrying-panwhichhadbeenleftwepickedacoupleofquartsoftree-cranberriesforasauceIwassurprisedbyJoesaskingmehowfaritwastotheMoosehornHewasprettywellacquaintedwiththisstreambuthehadnoticedthatIwascuriousaboutdistancesandhadseveralmapsHeandIndiansgenerallywithwhomIhavetalkedarenotabletodescribedimensionsordistancesinourmeasureswithanyaccuracyHecouldtellperhapsatwhattimeweshouldarrivebutnothowfar itwasWesawafewwoodduckssheldrakesandblackducksbuttheywerenotsonumerousthereatthatseasonasonourriverathomeWescaredthesamefamilyofwoodducksbeforeusgoingandreturningWealsoheardthenoteofonefishhawksomewhatlikethatofapigeonwoodpeckerandsoonaftersawhimperchednearthetopofadeadwhitepineagainsttheisland where we had first camped while a company of peetweets weretwitteringandteeteringaboutoverthecarcassofamooseonalowsandyspitjustbeneathWedrovethefishhawkfromperchtopercheachtimeelicitingascreamorwhistleformanymilesbeforeusOurcoursebeingup-streamwewere obliged to workmuch harder than before and had frequent use for apole Sometimes all three of us paddled together standing up small andheavilyladenasthecanoewasAboutsixmilesfromMooseheadwebegantosee themountains east of the north end of the lake and at four oclockwereachedthecarryThe Indians were still encamped here There were three including the StFrancis Indianwhohadcome in thesteamerwithusOneof theotherswascalledSabattis Joe and theStFrancis Indianwereplainly clear Indian theothertwoapparentlymixedIndianandwhitebutthedifferencewasconfinedtotheirfeaturesandcomplexionforallthatIcouldseeWeherecookedthetongueofthemooseforsuppermdashhavingleftthenosewhichisesteemedthechoicest part at Chesuncook boiling it being a good deal of trouble toprepareitWealsostewedourtree-cranberries(Viburnumopulus)sweeteningthemwith sugar The lumberers sometimes cook themwithmolasses TheywereusedinArnoldsexpeditionThissaucewasverygratefultouswhohadbeenconfinedtohard-breadporkandmoosemeatandnotwithstandingtheirseeds we all three pronounced them equal to the common cranberry butperhaps some allowance is to bemade for our forest appetites Itwould beworth thewhile to cultivate themboth for beauty and for food I afterwardsawtheminagardeninBangorJoesaidthattheywerecalledebeemenarWhile we were getting supper Joe commenced curing the moose-hide onwhichIhadsatagoodpartofthevoyagehehavingalreadycutmostofthe

hairoffwithhisknifeattheCaucomgomocHesetuptwostoutforkedpolesonthebanksevenoreightfeethighandasmuchasundereastandwestandhavingcutslitseightortenincheslongandthesamedistanceapartclosetotheedgeonthesidesofthehidehethreadedpolesthroughthemandthenplacingoneofthepolesontheforkedstakestiedtheotherdowntightlyatthebottomThetwoendsalsoweretiedwithcedarbarktheirusualstringtotheuprightpolesthroughsmallholesatshortintervalsThehidethusstretchedandslantedalittletothenorthtoexposeitsfleshsidetothesunmeasuredinthe extreme eight feet long by six highWhere any flesh still adhered Joeboldly scored it with his knife to lay it open to the sun It now appearedsomewhatspottedandinjuredbytheduckshotYoumayseetheoldframesonwhichhideshavebeenstretchedatmanycamping-placesinthesewoodsForsomereasonorother thegoing to theforksof thePenobscotwasgivenupandwedecided to stopheremycompanion intending tohuntdown thestreamatnightTheIndiansinvitedustolodgewiththembutmycompanioninclinedtogotothelogcamponthecarryThiscampwascloseanddirtyandhadanillsmellandIpreferredtoaccepttheIndiansofferifwedidnotmakeacampforourselvesforthoughtheyweredirtytootheyweremoreintheopenairandweremuchmoreagreeableandevenrefinedcompanythanthelumberers Themost interesting question entertained at the lumberers campwaswhichmancouldhandleanyotheronthecarryandforthemostparttheypossessednoqualitieswhichyoucouldnotlayhandsonSowewenttotheIndianscamporwigwamItwasratherwindyandthereforeJoeconcludedtohuntaftermidnightifthewindwentdownwhichtheotherIndiansthoughtitwouldnotdobecauseitwasfromthesouthThetwomixed-bloodshoweverwentoffuptheriverformooseatdarkbeforewearrivedattheircampThisIndiancampwasaslightpatched-up affair which had stood there several weeks built shed-fashionopentothefireonthewestIfthewindchangedtheycouldturnitroundItwasformedbytwoforkedstakesandacross-barwithraftersslantedfromthisto the ground The covering was partly an old sail partly birch-bark quiteimperfectbutsecurelytiedonandcomingdowntothegroundonthesidesAlarge log was rolled up at the back side for a headboard and two or threemoose-hideswere spreadon thegroundwith thehairupVariousarticlesoftheirwardrobewere tucked around the sides and corners or under the roofTheyweresmokingmoosemeatonjustsuchacrateasisrepresentedbyWithin De Brys Collectio Peregrinationum published in 1588 and which thenativesofBrazilcalledboucan(whencebuccaneer)onwhichwerefrequentlyshownpiecesofhumanfleshdryingalongwiththerestItwaserectedinfrontof thecampover theusual large fire in the formof anoblong squareTwostoutforkedstakesfourorfivefeetapartandfivefeethighweredrivenintothegroundateachendandthentwopolestenfeetlongwerestretchedacross

overthefireandsmalleroneslaidtransverselyontheseafootapartOnthelasthunglargethinslicesofmoosemeatsmokinganddryingaspacebeingleft open over the centre of the fire Therewas thewhole heart black as athirty-twopoundball hanging at one cornerThey said that it took threeorfourdaystocurethismeatanditwouldkeepayearormoreRefusepieceslayaboutonthegroundindifferentstagesofdecayandsomepiecesalsointhefirehalfburiedandsizzlingintheashesasblackanddirtyasanoldshoeTheselastIatfirstthoughtwerethrownawaybutafterwardsfoundthattheywerebeingcookedAlsoatremendousrib-piecewasroastingbeforethefirebeing impaledonanuprightstakeforced inandoutbetween theribsTherewasamoose-hidestretchedandcuringonpoleslikeoursandquiteapileofcuredskinsclosebyTheyhadkilled twenty-twomoosewithin twomonthsbutastheycouldusebutverylittleofthemeattheyleftthecarcasesonthegroundAltogetheritwasaboutassavageasightaswaseverwitnessedandIwas carried back at once three hundred years There weremany torches ofbirch-bark shaped like straight tin horns lying ready for use on a stumpoutsideFor fear of dirtwe spread our blankets over their hides so as not to touchthemanywhereTheStFrancisIndianandJoealonewerethereatfirstandwelayonourbackstalkingwiththemtillmidnightTheywereverysociableandwhen they did not talkwith us kept up a steady chatting in their ownlanguageWe heard a small bird just after dark which Joe said sang at acertain hour in the nightmdashat ten oclock he believed We also heard thehylodesandtree-toadsandthelumbererssingingintheircampaquarterofamile off I told them that I had seen pictured in old books pieces of humanfleshdryingonthesecrateswhereupontheyrepeatedsometraditionabouttheMohawks eating human fleshwhat parts they preferred etc and also of abattlewith theMohawksnearMoosehead inwhichmanyof the latterwerekilled but I found that they knewbut little of the history of their race andcouldbeentertainedbystoriesabouttheirancestorsasreadilyasanywayAtfirstIwasnearlyroastedoutforIlayagainstonesideofthecampandfelttheheatreflectednotonlyfromthebirch-barkabovebutfromthesideandagain I remembered the sufferings of the Jesuit missionaries and whatextremes of heat and cold the Indianswere said to endure I struggled longbetweenmydesiretoremainandtalkwiththemandmyimpulsetorushoutand stretchmyself on the cool grass andwhen Iwas about to take the laststep Joehearingmymurmursor elsebeinguncomfortablehimself gotupand partially dispersed the fire I suppose that that is Indian mannersmdashtodefendyourselfWhile lying there listening to the Indians I amused myself with trying toguessattheirsubjectbytheirgesturesorsomepropernameintroducedTherecanbenomorestartlingevidenceoftheirbeingadistinctandcomparatively

aboriginal race than to hear this unaltered Indian languagewhich thewhitemancannotspeaknorunderstandWemaysuspectchangeanddeteriorationinalmost every other particular but the language which is so whollyunintelligible to us It took me by surprise though I had found so manyarrowheads and convinced me that the Indian was not the invention ofhistorians andpoets Itwas apurelywild andprimitiveAmerican sound asmuchasthebarkingofachickareeandIcouldnotunderstandasyllableofitbut Paugus had he been there would have understood it These AbenakisgossipedlaughedandjestedinthelanguageinwhichEliotsIndianBibleiswritten the languagewhichhasbeenspoken inNewEnglandwhoshall sayhow long These were the sounds that issued from the wigwams of thiscountrybeforeColumbuswasborn theyhavenot yet died away andwithremarkably few exceptions the language of their forefathers is still copiousenoughforthemIfeltthatIstoodorratherlayasneartotheprimitivemanofAmericathatnightasanyofitsdiscovererseverdidInthemidstoftheirconversationJoesuddenlyappealedtometoknowhowlongMooseheadLakewasMeanwhileaswelaythereJoewasmakingandtryinghishorntobereadyforhunting aftermidnightTheStFrancis Indian also amusedhimselfwithsoundingitorrathercallingthroughitforthesoundismadewiththevoiceandnotbyblowingthroughthehornThelatterappearedtobeaspeculatorinmoose-hidesHeboughtmycompanionsfortwodollarsandaquartergreenJoe said that it was worth two and a half at Oldtown Its chief use is formoccasinsOneortwooftheseIndiansworethemIwastoldthatbyarecentlawofMaine foreigners are not allowed to killmoose there at any seasonwhiteAmericanscankill themonlyataparticularseasonbuttheIndiansofMaineatallseasonsTheStFrancisIndianaccordinglyaskedmycompanionforawighigginorbilltoshowsincehewasaforeignerHelivednearSorelIfoundthathecouldwritehisnameverywellTahmuntSwasenOneEllisanoldwhitemanofGuilfordatownthroughwhichwepassednotfarfromthesouthendofMooseheadwasthemostcelebratedmoose-hunterofthosepartsIndiansandwhitesspokewithequal respectofhimTahmuntsaid that thereweremoremooseherethanintheAdirondackcountryinNewYorkwherehehadhunted that threeyearsbefore therewereagreatmanyaboutandtherewereagreatmanynowinthewoodsbuttheydidnotcomeouttothewaterItwas of no use to hunt them atmidnightmdashtheywould not come out then Iasked Sabattis after he came home if the moose never attacked him HeansweredthatyoumustnotfiremanytimessoastomadhimIfireonceandhithimintherightplaceandinthemorningIfindhimHewontgofarButifyoukeepfiringyoumadhimIfiredoncefivebulletseveryonethroughtheheartandhedidnotmindematallitonlymadehimmoremadIaskedhimiftheydidnothuntthemwithdogsHesaidthattheydidsoinwinterbut

never in the summer for then it was of no use they would run right offstraightandswiftlyahundredmilesAnotherIndiansaidthatthemooseoncescaredwouldrunalldayAdogwillhangtotheirlipsandbecarriedalongtillheisswungagainstatreeanddropsoffTheycannotrunonaglazethoughtheycanruninsnowfourfeetdeepbut the caribou can run on ice They commonly find two or three moosetogetherTheycoverthemselveswithwaterallbuttheirnosestoescapefliesHehadthehornsofwhathecalledtheblackmoosethatgoesinlowlandsThesespreadthreeorfourfeetTheredmoosewasanotherkindrunningon mountains and had horns which spread six feet Such were hisdistinctionsBothcanmovetheirhornsThebroadflatbladesarecoveredwithhairandaresosoftwhentheanimalisalivethatyoucanrunaknifethroughthemTheyregarditasagoodorbadsignifthehornsturnthiswayorthatHiscaribouhornshadbeengnawedbymice inhiswigwambuthe thoughtthatthehornsneitherofthemoosenorofthecaribouwereevergnawedwhilethe creaturewas alive as somehave assertedAn Indianwhom Imet afterthisatOldtownwhohadcarriedaboutabearandotheranimalsofMainetoexhibittoldmethatthirtyyearsagotherewerenotsomanymooseinMaineasnow also that themoosewerevery easily tamed andwould comebackwhen once fed and so would deer but not caribou The Indians of thisneighborhood are about as familiar with the moose as we are with the oxhaving associatedwith them for somany generations Father Rasles in hisDictionary of the Abenaki Language gives not only a word for the malemoose(aianbeacute)andanotherforthefemale(hegraverar)butforthebonewhichisinthemiddleoftheheartofthemoose()andforhislefthindlegTherewerenoneofthesmalldeeruptheretheyaremorecommonaboutthesettlements One ran into the city of Bangor two years before and jumpedthrough a window of costly plate glass and then into a mirror where itthought it recognizedoneof itskindandoutagainandsoon leapingovertheheadsofthecrowduntilitwascapturedThistheinhabitantsspeakofasthedeerthatwenta-shoppingThelast-mentionedIndianspokeofthelunxusorIndiandevil(whichItaketobethecougarandnottheGuloluscus)astheonlyanimalinMainewhichmanneedfearitwouldfollowamananddidnotmind a fire He also said that beavers were getting to be pretty numerousagain where wewent but their skins brought so little now that it was notprofitabletohuntthemIhadputtheearsofourmoosewhichweretenincheslongtodryalongwiththemoosemeatoverthefirewishingtopreservethembutSabattistoldmethatImustskinandcurethemelsethehairwouldallcomeoffHeobservedthat they made tobacco pouches of the skins of their ears putting the twotogetherinsidetoinsideIaskedhimhowhegotfireandheproducedalittle

cylindrical box of friction matches He also had flints and steel and somepunkwhichwasnotdryI thinkitwasfromtheyellowbirchButsupposeyouupsetandalltheseandyourpowdergetwetThensaidhewewaittillwegettowherethereissomefireIproducedfrommypocketalittlevialcontainingmatchesstoppledwater-tightandtoldhimthat thoughwewereupset we should still have some dry matches at which he stared withoutsayingawordWe lay awake thus a long while talking and they gave us the meaning ofmanyIndiannamesoflakesandstreamsinthevicinitymdashespeciallyTahmuntI asked the Indian name of Moosehead Lake Joe answered SebamookTahmunt pronounced it Sebemook When I asked what it meant theyansweredMooseheadLakeAt lengthgettingmymeaning theyalternatelyrepeatedthewordovertothemselvesasaphilologistmightmdashSebamookmdashSebamookmdashnowand thencomparingnotes in Indian for therewasaslightdifferenceintheirdialectsandfinallyTahmuntsaidUghIknowmdashandherose up partly on the moose-hidemdashlike as here is a place and there is aplacepointingtodifferentpartsofthehideandyoutakewaterfromthereandfill thisand it stayshere that isSebamook Iunderstoodhim tomeanthatitwasareservoirofwaterwhichdidnotrunawaytherivercominginononesideandpassingoutagainnearthesameplaceleavingapermanentbayAnotherIndiansaidthatitmeantLargeBayLakeandthatSebagoandSebecthenamesofotherlakeswerekindredwordsmeaninglargeopenwaterJoesaidthatSebooismeantLittleRiverIobservedtheirinabilityoftendescribedto convey an abstract idea Having got the idea though indistinctly theygropedaboutinvainforwordswithwhichtoexpressitTahmuntthoughtthatthewhitescalleditMooseheadLakebecauseMountKineowhichcommandsitisshapedlikeamoosesheadandthatMooseRiverwassocalledbecausethemountainpointsrightacrossthelaketoitsmouthJohnJosselynwritingabout1673 says Twelvemiles fromCascoBayandpassable formenandhorsesisalakecalledbytheIndiansSebugOnthebrinkthereofatoneendisthefamousrockshapedlikeamoosedeerorhelkdiaphanousandcalledtheMoose RockHe appears to have confounded Sebamookwith SebagowhichisnearerbuthasnodiaphanousrockonitsshoreIgivemoreoftheirdefinitionsforwhattheyareworthmdashpartlybecausetheydiffer sometimes from the commonly received ones They never analyzedthesewordsbeforeAfterlongdeliberationandrepeatingofthewordmdashforitgave much troublemdashTahmunt said that Chesuncook meant a place wheremany streams emptied in () and he enumerated themmdashPenobscotUmbazookskusCusabesexRedBrooketcCaucomgomocmdashwhatdoesthatmeanWhatare those largewhitebirdsheaskedGulls said I UghGull Lake Pammadumcook Joe thought meant the Lake with GravellyBottomorBedKenduskeagTahmuntconcludedatlastafteraskingifbirches

went up itmdashfor he said that he was not much acquainted with itmdashmeantsomethinglikethisYougoupPenobscottillyoucometoKenduskeagandyougobyyoudont turnup thereThat isKenduskeag ()Another IndianhoweverwhoknewtheriverbettertoldusafterwardthatitmeantLittleEelRiverMattawamkeagwasaplacewheretworiversmeet()PenobscotwasRocky River One writer says that this was originally the name of only asectionofthemainchannelfromtheheadofthetide-watertoashortdistanceaboveOldtownA very intelligent Indian whom we afterward met son-in-law of Neptunegave us also these other definitions Umbazookskus MeadowStreamMillinoket Place of Islands Aboljacarmegus Smooth-Ledge Falls(andDeadwater)Aboljacarmeguscook thestreamemptying in (the lastwasthe word he gave when I asked about Aboljacknagesic which he did notrecognize)MattahumkeagSand-CreekPondPiscataquisBranchofaRiverI asked our hosts what Musketaquid the Indian name of ConcordMassachusettsmeantbuttheychangedittoMusketicookandrepeatedthatandTahmunt said that itmeantDeadStreamwhich is probably trueCookappearstomeanstreamandperhapsquidsignifiestheplaceorgroundWhenIaskedthemeaningofthenamesoftwoofourhillstheyansweredthattheywere another language As Tahmunt said that he traded at Quebec mycompanioninquiredthemeaningof thewordQuebecaboutwhichtherehasbeensomuchquestionHedidnotknowbutbegantoconjectureHeaskedwhat those great ships were called that carried soldiers Men-of-war weanswered Well he said when the English ships came up the river theycouldnotgoanyfartheritwassonarrowtheretheymustgobackmdashgo-backmdashthatsQue-becImentionthistoshowthevalueofhisauthorityintheothercasesLate at night the other two Indians came home from moose-hunting nothaving been successful aroused the fire again lighted their pipes smokedawhiletooksomethingstrongtodrinkandatesomemoosemeatandfindingwhatroomtheycouldlaydownonthemoose-hidesandthuswepassedthenighttwowhitemenandfourIndianssidebysideWhenIawokein themorningtheweatherwasdrizzlingOneof theIndianswas lying outside rolled in his blanket on the opposite side of the fire forwantofroomJoehadneglectedtoawakemycompanionandhehaddonenohunting that night Tahmunt was making a cross-bar for his canoe with asingularly shaped knife such as I have since seen other Indians using Thebladewasthinaboutthreequartersofaninchwideandeightornineincheslong but curved out of its plane into a hook which he said made it moreconvenienttoshavewithAstheIndiansveryfarnorthandnorthwestusethesame kind of knife I suspect that it was made according to an aboriginal

patternthoughsomewhiteartisansmayuseasimilaroneTheIndiansbakedaloafofflourbreadinaspideronitsedgebeforethefirefortheirbreakfastandwhilemycompanionwasmaking tea Icaughtadozensizablefishes inthePenobscottwokindsofsuckerandonetroutAfterwehadbreakfastedbyourselvesoneofourbed-fellowswhohadalsobreakfastedcamealongandbeing invited took a cup of tea and finally taking up the common platterlicked it cleanBut hewas nothing to awhite fellow a lumbererwhowascontinuallystuffinghimselfwiththeIndiansmoosemeatandwasthebuttofhiscompanionsaccordinglyHeseemstohavethoughtthatitwasafeasttoeatallItiscommonlysaidthatthewhitemanfinallysurpassestheIndianonhis own ground and it was proved true in this case I cannot swear to hisemploymentduringthehoursofdarknessbutIsawhimatitagainassoonasitwaslightthoughhecameaquarterofamiletohisworkTherainpreventedourcontinuinganylongerinthewoodssogivingsomeofourprovisionsandutensilstotheIndianswetookleaveofthemThisbeingthesteamersdayIsetoutforthelakeatonceIwalkedoverthecarryaloneandwaitedattheheadofthelakeAneagleorsomeotherlargebirdflewscreamingawayfromitsperchbytheshoreatmyapproachForanhourafterIreachedtheshoretherewasnotahumanbeingtobeseenandIhadallthatwideprospecttomyselfIthoughtthatIheardthesoundofthesteamerbeforeshecameinsightontheopenlakeInoticedatthelandingwhenthesteamercameinoneofourbed-fellowswhohadbeena-moose-hunting thenightbefore nowvery sprucelydressed in a cleanwhiteshirtandfineblackpantsatrueIndiandandywhohadevidentlycomeoverthe carry to show himself to any arrivers on the north shore ofMooseheadLake just asNewYork dandies take a turn upBroadway and stand on thestepsofahotelMidwaythelakewetookonboardtwomanly-lookingmiddle-agedmenwiththeirbatteauwhohadbeenexploringforsixweeksasfarastheCanadalineandhadlettheirbeardsgrowTheyhadtheskinofabeaverwhichtheyhadrecentlycaughtstretchedonanovalhoopthoughthefurwasnotgoodatthatseasonItalkedwithoneofthemtellinghimthatIhadcomeallthisdistancepartlytoseewherethewhitepine theEasternstuffofwhichourhousesarebuilt grew but that on this and a previous excursion into another part ofMaineIhadfounditascarcetreeandIaskedhimwhereImustlookforitWithasmileheansweredthathecouldhardlytellmeHoweverhesaidthathehad foundenough toemploy two teams thenextwinter inaplacewheretherewas thought tobenone leftWhatwasconsideredatip-top treenowwasnotlookedattwentyyearsagowhenhefirstwentintothebusinessbuttheysucceededverywellnowwithwhatwasconsideredquiteinferiortimberthenTheexplorerusedtocutintoatreehigherandhigheruptoseeifitwas

false-heartedandiftherewasarottenheartasbigashisarmheletitalonebutnowtheycutsuchatreeandsaweditallaroundtherotanditmadetheverybestofboardsforinsuchacasetheywerenevershakyOneconnectedwith lumberingoperationsatBangor toldme that the largestpinebelongingtohisfirmcutthepreviouswinterscaledinthewoodsfourthousand five hundred feet and was worth ninety dollars in the log at theBangorboominOldtownTheycutaroadthreeandahalfmileslongforthistreealoneHethoughtthattheprincipallocalityforthewhitepinethatcamedownthePenobscotnowwasattheheadoftheEastBranchandtheAllegashaboutWebster Stream and Eagle and Chamberlain lakes Much timber hasbeen stolen from the public lands (Pray what kind of forest-warden is thePublic itself) Iheardofonemanwhohavingdiscoveredsomeparticularlyfine trees just within the boundaries of the public lands and not daring toemploy an accomplice cut them down and bymeans of block and tacklewithout cattle tumbled them into a stream and so succeeded in getting offwiththemwithouttheleastassistanceSurelystealingpinetreesinthiswayisnotsomeanasrobbinghen-roostsWereachedMonsonthatnightandthenextdayrodetoBangorallthewayinthe rain again varying our route a little Some of the taverns on this roadwhichwereparticularlydirtywereplainlyinatransitionstatefromthecamptothehouseThe next forenoon we went to Oldtown One slender old Indian on theOldtown shore who recognized my companion was full of mirth andgestureslikeaFrenchmanACatholicpriestcrossedtotheislandinthesamebatteauwith us The Indian houses are framedmostly of one story and inrowsonebehindanotherat thesouthendof theislandwithafewscatteredonesIcountedaboutfortynotincludingthechurchandwhatmycompanioncalled thecouncil-houseThe lastwhich I suppose is their town-housewasregularlyframedandshingledliketherestTherewereseveraloftwostoriesquiteneatwithfrontyards inclosedandoneat leasthadgreenblindsHereandthereweremoose-hidesstretchedanddryingabout themTherewerenocart-pathsnortracksofhorsesbutfootpathsverylittlelandcultivatedbutanabundanceofweedsindigenousandnaturalizedmoreintroducedweedsthanuseful vegetables as the Indian is said to cultivate the vices rather than thevirtues of the white man Yet this village was cleaner than I expected farcleaner than such Irish villages as I have seen The children were notparticularly ragged nor dirty The little boys met us with bow in hand andarrowonstringandcriedPutupacentVerilytheIndianhasbutafeebleholdonhisbownowbutthecuriosityofthewhitemanisinsatiableandfromthefirsthehasbeeneagertowitnessthisforestaccomplishmentThatelasticpieceofwoodwithitsfeathereddartsosuretobeunstrungbycontactwith

civilizationwillserveforthetypethecoat-of-armsofthesavageAlasfortheHunterRacethewhitemanhasdrivenofftheirgameandsubstitutedacentinitsplaceIsawanIndianwomanwashingatthewatersedgeShestoodonarockandafterdippingtheclothesinthestreamlaidthemontherockandbeatthemwithashortclubInthegraveyardwhichwascrowdedwithgravesand overrun with weeds I noticed an inscription in Indian painted on awoodengrave-boardTherewasalargewoodencrossontheislandSincemycompanionknewhimwecalledonGovernorNeptunewholivedina little ten-footer one of the humblest of them all Personalities areallowableinspeakingofpublicmenthereforeIwillgivetheparticularsofourvisit Hewas abedWhenwe entered the roomwhichwas one half of thehousehewassittingonthesideofthebedTherewasaclockhanginginonecorner He had on a black frock coat and black pants much worn whitecottonshirtsocksaredsilkhandkerchiefabouthisneckandastrawhatHisblack hair was only slightly grayed He had very broad cheeks and hisfeatures were decidedly and refreshingly different from those of any of theupstartNativeAmericanpartywhomIhaveseenHewasnodarkerthanmanyoldwhitemenHetoldmethathewaseighty-ninebuthewasgoinga-moose-hunting that fall ashehadbeen thepreviousoneProbablyhiscompanionsdidthehuntingWesawvarioussquawsdodgingaboutOnesatonthebedbyhissideandhelpedhimoutwithhisstoriesTheywereremarkablycorpulentwithsmoothroundfacesapparentlyfullofgood-humorCertainlyourmuch-abusedclimatehadnotdrieduptheiradiposesubstanceWhileweweretheremdashforwestayedagoodwhilemdashonewentover toOldtownreturnedandcutoutadresswhichshehadboughtonanotherbedintheroomTheGovernorsaidthathecouldrememberwhenthemooseweremuchlargerthattheydidnotusetobeinthewoodsbutcameoutofthewaterasalldeerdidMoosewas whale once Away down Merrimack way a whale came ashore in ashallow bay Seawent out and left him and he came up on land amooseWhatmadethemknowhewasawhalewas thatat firstbeforehebegantoruninbusheshehadnobowelsinsidebutmdashandthenthesquawwhosatonthebedbyhissideastheGovernorsaidandhadbeenputtinginawordnowandthenandconfirmingthestoryaskedmewhatwecalledthatsoftthingwefindalongtheseashoreJelly-fishIsuggestedYessaidhenobowelsbutjelly-fishThere may be some truth in what he said about the moose growing largerformerly for thequaintJohnJosselynaphysicianwhospentmanyyears inthisverydistrictofMaineintheseventeenthcenturysaysthatthetipsoftheirhornsaresometimesfoundtobetwofathomsasundermdashandheisparticulartotellusthatafathomissixfeetmdashand[theyare]inheightfromthetoeofthe fore foot to thepitchof the shoulder twelve footbothwhichhathbeentaken by some ofmy sceptique readers to bemonstrous lies and he adds

There are certain transcendentia in every creature which are the indeliblecharacterofGodandwhichdiscoverGodThis isagreaterdilemma tobecaught in than is presented by the cranium of the young Bechuana oxapparently another of the transcendentia in the collection of Thomas SteelUpper Brook Street London whose entire length of horn from tip to tipalongthecurveis13ft5indistance(straight)betweenthetipsofthehorns8 ft8frac12 inHowever the sizebothof themooseand thecougar as IhavefoundisgenerallyratherunderratedthanoverratedandIshouldbeinclinedtoaddtothepopularestimateapartofwhatIsubtractedfromJosselynsButwetalkedmostlywiththeGovernorsson-in-lawaverysensibleIndianand the Governor being so old and deaf permitted himself to be ignoredwhile we asked questions about him The former said that there were twopoliticalpartiesamongthemmdashoneinfavorofschoolsandtheotheropposedto themor rather theydidnotwish to resist thepriestwhowasopposed tothem The first had just prevailed at the election and sent their man to thelegislatureNeptuneandAitteonandhehimselfwereinfavorofschoolsHesaidIfIndiansgotlearningtheywouldkeeptheirmoneyWhenweaskedwhereJoesfatherAitteonwasheknewthathemustbeatLincolnthoughhewas about going a-moose-hunting for amessenger had just gone to himtheretogethissignaturetosomepapersIaskedNeptuneiftheyhadanyoftheoldbreedofdogsyetHeansweredYesButthatsaidIpointingtoonethathadjustcomeinisaYankeedogHeassentedIsaidthathedidnot look likeagoodone Ohyeshe said andhe toldwithmuchgustohowtheyearbeforehehadcaughtandheldbythethroatawolfAverysmallblackpuppyrushedintotheroomandmadeattheGovernorsfeetashesatinhis stockingswithhis legsdangling from thebedsideTheGovernor rubbedhis hands and dared him to come on entering into the sport with spiritNothingmore thatwas significant transpired tomy knowledge during thisinterviewThiswasthefirsttimethatIevercalledonagovernorbutasIdidnotaskforanofficeIcanspeakofitwiththemorefreedomAnIndianwhowasmakingcanoesbehindahouselookinguppleasantlyfromhis workmdashfor he knewmy companionmdashsaid that his namewasOld JohnPennyweightIhadheardofhimlongbeforeandI inquiredafteroneofhiscontemporariesJoeFour-pence-hapennybutalashenolongercirculatesImade a faithful study of canoe-building and I thought that I should like toserveanapprenticeshipatthattradeforoneseasongoingintothewoodsforbarkwithmybossmakingthecanoethereandreturninginitatlastWhilethebatteauwascomingovertotakeusoffIpickedupsomefragmentsofarrowheadsontheshoreandonebrokenstonechiselwhichweregreaternoveltiestotheIndiansthantomeAfterthisonOldFortHillatthebendofthe Penobscot three miles above Bangor looking for the site of an Indian

townwhichsomethinkstoodthereaboutsIfoundmorearrowheadsandtwolittledarkandcrumblingfragmentsofIndianearthenwareintheashesoftheirfiresTheIndiansontheislandappearedtolivequitehappilyandtobewelltreatedbytheinhabitantsofOldtownWe visitedVeaziesmills just below the islandwherewere sixteen sets ofsawsmdashsomegangsawssixteeninagangnot tomentioncircularsawsOnonesidetheywerehaulingthelogsupaninclinedplanebywater-powerontheotherpassingouttheboardsplanksandsawedtimberandformingtheminto raftsThe treeswere literallydrawnandquartered there In forming therafts they use the lower three feet of hard-wood saplings which have acrookedandknobbedbutt-endforboltspassingthemupthroughholesboredin the corners and sidesof the rafts andkeying them In another apartmenttheyweremakingfence-slatssuchasstandalloverNewEnglandoutofoddsand ends and it may be that I sawwhere the picket-fence behind which Idwell at home came from Iwas surprised to find a boy collecting the longedgingsofboardsasfastascutoffandthrustingthemdownahopperwherethey were ground up beneath the mill that they might be out of the wayotherwisetheyaccumulateinvastpilesbythesideofthebuildingincreasingthedangerfromfireorfloatingofftheyobstructtheriverThiswasnotonlya sawmill but a gristmill then The inhabitants ofOldtown Stillwater andBangorcannotsufferforwantofkindlingstuffsurelySomeget their livingexclusively by picking up the driftwood and selling it by the cord in thewinterInoneplaceIsawwhereanIrishmanwhokeepsateamandamanforthepurposehadcoveredtheshoreforalongdistancewithregularpilesandIwas told that he had sold twelve hundred dollarsworth in a yearAnotherwholivedbytheshoretoldmethathegotallthematerialofhisoutbuildingsandfencesfromtheriverandinthatneighborhoodIperceivedthatthisrefusewood was frequently used instead of sand to fill hollows with beingapparentlycheaperthandirtIgotmyfirstclearviewofKtaadnon thisexcursion fromahillabout twomilesnorthwestofBangorwhither Iwent for thispurposeAfter this IwasreadytoreturntoMassachusettsHumboldthaswrittenaninterestingchapterontheprimitiveforestbutnoonehasyetdescribed forme thedifferencebetween thatwild forestwhichonceoccupiedouroldesttownshipsandthetameonewhichIfindthereto-dayItisadifferencewhichwouldbeworthattending toThecivilizedmannotonlyclearsthelandpermanentlytoagreatextentandcultivatesopenfieldsbuthetamesandcultivatestoacertainextenttheforestitselfByhismerepresencealmosthechangesthenatureofthetreesasnoothercreaturedoesThesunand air and perhaps fire have been introduced and grain raised where itstands It has lost itswild damp and shaggy look the countless fallen and

decayingtreesaregoneandconsequentlythatthickcoatofmosswhichlivedonthemisgonetooTheearthiscomparativelybareandsmoothanddryThemostprimitiveplacesleftwithusaretheswampswherethesprucestillgrowsshaggy with usnea The surface of the ground in the Maine woods iseverywhere spongy and saturated with moisture I noticed that the plantswhich cover the forest floor there are such as are commonly confined toswamps with usmdashtheClintonia borealis orchises creeping snowberry andothersand theprevailingaster there is theAsteracuminatuswhichwithusgrowsindampandshadywoodsTheasterscordifoliusandmacrophyllusalsoarecommonastersoflittleornocolorandsometimeswithoutpetalsIsawno soft spreading second-growth white pines with smooth barkacknowledging the presence of thewoodchopper but even the youngwhitepineswerealltallandslenderrough-barkedtreesThose Maine woods differ essentially from ours There you are neverreminded that the wilderness which you are threading is after all somevillagers familiarwood-lot somewidows thirds fromwhich her ancestorshavesleddedfuelforgenerationsminutelydescribedinsomeolddeedwhichisrecordedofwhichtheownerhasgotaplantooandoldbound-marksmaybe foundevery forty rods ifyouwill search Tis true themapmay informyou that you stand on land granted by the State to some academy or onBinghams purchase but these names do not impose on you for you seenothingtoremindyouoftheacademyorofBinghamWhatweretheforestsofEnglandtotheseOnewriterrelatesoftheIsleofWightthatinCharlestheSecondstimetherewerewoodsintheislandsocompleteandextensivethatitissaidasquirrelmighthavetraveledinseveralpartsmanyleaguestogetheron the topof the trees If itwerenot for the rivers (andhemightgo roundtheirheads)asquirrelcouldheretravelthusthewholebreadthofthecountryWe have as yet had no adequate account of a primitive pine forest I havenoticedthatinaphysicalatlaslatelypublishedinMassachusettsandusedinourschoolsthewoodlandofNorthAmericaislimitedalmostsolelytothevalleysoftheOhioandsomeoftheGreatLakesandthegreatpineforestsoftheglobearenotrepresentedInourvicinityforinstanceNewBrunswickandMaine are exhibited as bare as Greenland It may be that the children ofGreenville at the foot ofMoosehead Lakewho surely are not likely to bescared by an owl are referred to the valley of theOhio to get an idea of aforestbut theywouldnotknowwhat todowith theirmoosebearcariboubeaver etc thereShallwe leave it to anEnglishman to informus that inNorthAmericabothintheUnitedStatesandCanadaarethemostextensivepineforests in theworldThegreaterpartofNewBrunswick thenorthernhalfofMaineandadjacentpartsofCanadanot tomentionthenortheasternpartofNewYorkandothertractsfartheroffarestillcoveredwithanalmostunbrokenpineforest

ButMaineperhapswillsoonbewhereMassachusettsisAgoodpartofherterritory is alreadyasbare andcommonplaceasmuchofourneighborhoodandhervillagesgenerally arenot sowell shadedasoursWe seem to thinkthat the earth must go through the ordeal of sheep-pasturage before it ishabitablebymanConsiderNahanttheresortofallthefashionofBostonmdashwhichpeninsula I sawbut indistinctly in the twilightwhen I steamedby itandthoughtthatitwasunchangedsincethediscoveryJohnSmithdescribeditin 1614 as the Mattahunts two pleasant isles of groves gardens andcornfields and others tell us that it was once well wooded and evenfurnishedtimbertobuildthewharvesofBostonNowitisdifficulttomakeatreegrowthereandthevisitorcomesawaywithavisionofMrTudorsuglyfences a rod high designed to protect a fewpear shrubsAndwhat arewecoming to inourMiddlesex townsAbald staring town-houseormeeting-houseandabareliberty-poleasleaflessasitisfruitlessforallIcanseeWeshall be obliged to import the timber for the last hereafter or splice suchsticksaswehaveAndourideasoflibertyareequallymeanwiththeseThevery willow-rows lopped every three years for fuel or powder and everysizablepineandoakorotherforesttreecutdownwithinthememoryofmanAsifindividualspeculatorsweretobeallowedtoexportthecloudsoutoftheskyorthestarsoutofthefirmamentonebyoneWeshallbereducedtognawtheverycrustoftheearthfornutrimentThey have even descended to smaller game They have lately as I hearinvented a machine for chopping up huckleberry bushes fine and soconverting them into fuelmdashbusheswhich for fruit alone areworth all thepear trees in thecountrymanytimesover (Icangiveyoua listof the threebestkindsifyouwantit)Atthisrateweshallallbeobligedtoletourbeardsgrow at least if only to hide the nakedness of the land andmake a sylvanappearanceThe farmer sometimes talks of brushingup simply as if bareground looked better than clothed ground than thatwhichwears its naturalvesturemdashasifthewildhedgeswhichperhapsaremoretohischildrenthanhiswholefarmbesideweredirtIknowofonewhodeservestobecalledtheTree-hater and perhaps to leave this for a newpatronymic to his childrenYouwouldthinkthathehadbeenwarnedbyanoraclethathewouldbekilledby the fallof a tree and sowas resolved toanticipate themThe journaliststhink that they cannot say too much in favor of such improvements inhusbandryitisasafethemelikepietybutasforthebeautyofoneofthesemodelfarmsIwouldasliefseeapatentchurnandamanturningitTheyare commonlyplacesmerelywhere somebody ismakingmoney itmaybecounterfeitingThevirtueofmakingtwobladesofgrassgrowwhereonlyonegrewbeforedoesnotbegintobesuperhumanNevertheless it was a relief to get back to our smooth but still variedlandscapeForapermanentresidenceitseemedtomethattherecouldbeno

comparison between this and thewilderness necessary as the latter is for aresource and a background the raw material of all our civilization ThewildernessissimplealmosttobarrennessThepartiallycultivatedcountryitiswhichchieflyhasinspiredandwillcontinuetoinspirethestrainsofpoetssuchascompose themassofany literatureOurwoodsaresylvanand theirinhabitants woodmen and rustics that is selvaggia and the inhabitants aresalvagesAcivilizedmanusingthewordintheordinarysensewithhisideasand associations must at length pine there like a cultivated plant whichclasps its fibresaboutacrudeandundissolvedmassofpeatAt theextremenorth the voyagers are obliged to dance and act plays for employmentPerhaps our own woods and fieldsmdashin the best wooded towns where weneed not quarrel about the huckleberriesmdashwith the primitive swampsscatteredhereand there in theirmidstbutnotprevailingover themare theperfectionofparksandgrovesgardensarborspathsvistasandlandscapesTheyare thenaturalconsequenceofwhatartandrefinementweasapeoplehavemdashthe common which each village possesses its true paradise incomparisonwithwhichallelaboratelyandwillfullywealth-constructedparksandgardensarepaltryimitationsOrIwouldrathersaysuchwereourgrovestwenty years ago The poets commonly is not a loggers path but awoodmansTheloggerandpioneerhaveprecededhimlikeJohntheBaptisteatenthewildhoneyitmaybebutthelocustsalsobanisheddecayingwoodand the spongy mosses which feed on it and built hearths and humanizedNatureforhimBut there are spirits of a yetmore liberal culture towhomno simplicity isbarrenTherearenotonlystatelypinesbutfragileflowersliketheorchisescommonly described as too delicate for cultivation which derive theirnutriment fromthecrudestmassofpeatTheseremindus thatnotonlyforstrengthbut forbeauty thepoetmust fromtime to time travel the loggerspathandtheIndianstrailtodrinkatsomenewandmorebracingfountainoftheMusesfarintherecessesofthewildernessThekingsofEnglandformerlyhadtheirforeststoholdthekingsgameforsportor food sometimesdestroyingvillages tocreateorextend themand IthinkthattheywereimpelledbyatrueinstinctWhyshouldnotwewhohaverenouncedthekingsauthorityhaveournationalpreserveswherenovillagesneedbedestroyedinwhichthebearandpantherandsomeevenofthehunterrace may still exist and not be civilized off the face of the earthmdashourforestsnottoholdthekingsgamemerelybuttoholdandpreservethekinghimself also the lord of creationmdashnot for idle sport or food but forinspiration and our own true recreation or shall we like the villains grubthemalluppoachingonourownnationaldomains

THEALLEGASHANDEASTBRANCH

I startedonmy thirdexcursion to theMainewoodsMonday July201857withonecompanionarrivingatBangorthenextdayatnoonWehadhardlyleftthesteamerwhenwepassedMollyMolassesinthestreetAslongasshelives the Penobscots may be considered extant as a tribe The succeedingmorning a relative of mine who is well acquainted with the PenobscotIndiansandwhohadbeenmycompanioninmytwopreviousexcursionsintotheMainewoodstookmeinhiswagontoOldtowntoassistmeinobtaininganIndianforthisexpeditionWewereferriedacrosstotheIndianIslandinabatteauThe ferrymansboyhadgot thekey to itbut the fatherwhowasablacksmithafteralittlehesitationcutthechainwithacold-chiselontherockHe told me that the Indians were nearly all gone to the seaboard and toMassachusetts partly on account of the smallpoxmdashof which they are verymuchafraidmdashhavingbrokenoutinOldtownanditwasdoubtfulwhetherweshouldfindasuitableoneathomeTheoldchiefNeptunehoweverwastherestillThe firstmanwesawon the islandwasan IndiannamedJosephPoliswhommy relative had known from a boy and now addressed familiarly asJoeHewas dressing a deer-skin in his yardThe skinwas spread over aslantinglogandhewasscrapingitwithastickheldbybothhandsHewasstoutlybuiltperhapsalittleabovethemiddleheightwithabroadfaceandasotherssaidperfectIndianfeaturesandcomplexionHishousewasatwo-storywhiteonewithblindsthebest-lookingthatInoticedthereandasgoodas an average one on aNewEngland village street Itwas surrounded by agarden and fruit-trees single cornstalks standing thinly amid the beansWeaskedhimifheknewanygoodIndianwhowouldlike togointo thewoodswithus that is to theAllegashLakesbywayofMooseheadandreturnbytheEastBranchofthePenobscotorvaryfromthisaswepleasedTowhichheansweredoutofthatstrangeremotenessinwhichtheIndianeverdwellstothewhitemanMeliketogomyselfmewantstogetsomemooseandkepton scraping the skinHis brother had been into thewoodswithmy relativeonly a year or two before and the Indian now inquiredwhat the latter haddone tohim thathedidnotcomeback forhehadnotseennorheard fromhimsinceAtlengthwegotroundtothemoreinterestingtopicagainTheferrymanhadtoldus thatall thebest IndiansweregoneexceptPoliswhowasoneof thearistocracyHetobesurewouldbethebestmanwecouldhavebutifhewentatallwouldwantagreatpricesowedidnotexpecttogethimPolisaskedatfirsttwodollarsadaybutagreedtogoforadollarandahalfandfiftycentsaweek for his canoeHewould come toBangorwithhis canoeby the sevenoclock train that eveningmdashwemightdependonhimWe thoughtourselveslucky to secure the services of thismanwhowas known to be particularly

steadyandtrustworthyI spent the afternoonwithmy companionwho had remained inBangor inpreparingforourexpeditionpurchasingprovisionshard-breadporkcoffeesugaretcandsomeindia-rubberclothingWehadatfirstthoughtofexploringtheStJohnfromitssourcetoitsmouthorelsetogoupthePenobscotbyitsEastBranchtothelakesoftheStJohnandreturnbywayofChesuncookandMooseheadWehadfinallyinclinedtothelastrouteonlyreversingtheorderofitgoingbywayofMooseheadandreturningbythePenobscototherwiseitwouldhavebeenallthewayupstreamandtakentwiceaslongAteveningtheIndianarrivedinthecarsandIledthewaywhilehefollowedmethreequartersofamiletomyfriendshousewiththecanoeonhisheadIdidnotknowtheexactroutemyselfbutsteeredbythelayofthelandasIdoin Boston and I tried to enter into conversation with him but as he waspuffing under the weight of his canoe not having the usual apparatus forcarryingitbutaboveallwasanIndianImightaswellhavebeenthumpingon the bottom of his birch thewhile In answer to the various observationswhich I made by way of breaking the ice he only grunted vaguely frombeneathhiscanoeonceortwicesothatIknewhewasthereEarly the nextmorning (July 23) the stage called for us the Indian havingbreakfastedwithusandalreadyplacedthebaggageinthecanoetoseehowitwouldgoMycompanionandIhadeachalargeknapsackasfullasitwouldhold andwehad two large india-rubber bagswhich held our provision andutensilsAsfortheIndianallthebaggagehehadbesidehisaxeandgunwasablanketwhichhebroughtlooseinhishandHoweverhehadlaidinastoreof tobaccoandanewpipefor theexcursionThecanoewassecurely lasheddiagonally across the top of the stage with bits of carpet tucked under theedgetopreventitschafingTheveryaccommodatingdriverappearedasmuchaccustomedtocarryingcanoesinthiswayasbandboxesAttheBangorHousewetookinfourmenboundonahuntingexcursiononeof the men going as cook They had a dog a middling-sized brindled curwhichranbythesideofthestagehismastershowinghisheadandwhistlingfrom time to time but after we had gone about three miles the dog wassuddenlymissing and two of the partywent back for himwhile the stagewhichwasfullofpassengerswaitedIsuggestedthathehadtakenthebacktrack for theBangorHouseAt length oneman came backwhile the otherkeptonThiswholepartyofhuntersdeclaredtheirintentiontostoptillthedogwasfoundbut theveryobligingdriverwasready towaitaspell longerHewasevidentlyunwillingtolosesomanypassengerswhowouldhavetakenaprivate conveyance or perhaps the other line of stages the next day Suchprogressdidwemakewithajourneyofoversixtymilestobeaccomplished

thatdayandarain-stormjustsettinginWediscussedthesubjectofdogsandtheirinstinctstillitwasthreadbarewhilewewaitedthereandthesceneryofthesuburbsofBangor is stilldistinctly impressedonmymemoryAfter fullhalfanhour theman returned leading thedogbya ropeHehadovertakenhimjustashewasenteringtheBangorHouseHewasthentiedonthetopofthestagebutbeingwetandcoldseveraltimesinthecourseofthejourneyhejumpedoffandIsawhimdanglingbyhisneckThisdogwasdependedontostopbearswithHehadalreadystoppedonesomewhere inNewHampshireandIcantestifythathestoppedastageinMaineThispartyoffourprobablypaidnothingfor thedogsridenorforhisrunwhileourpartyof threepaidtwodollarsmdashandwerechargedfourmdashforthelightcanoewhichlaystillonthetopItsoonbegantorainandgrewmoreandmorestormyas thedayadvancedThiswasthethirdtimethatIhadpassedoverthisrouteanditrainedsteadilyeachtimealldayWeaccordinglysawbutlittleofthecountryThestagewascrowdedall theway and I attended themore tomy fellow-travelers If youhadlookedinsidethiscoachyouwouldhavethoughtthatwewerepreparedtorunthegauntletofabandofrobbersfortherewerefourorfivegunsonthefront seat the Indians included andoneor twoon thebackone eachmanholding his darling in his arms One had a gun which carried twelve to apound It appeared that this party of hunters was going our way butmuchfarthermdashdown theAllegashandSt Johnand thenceupsomeotherstreamandacrosstotheRestigoucheandtheBayofChaleurtobegonesixweeksTheyhadcanoesaxesandsuppliesdepositedsomedistancealongtherouteTheycarriedflourandweretohavenewbreadmadeeverydayTheirleaderwasahandsomemanaboutthirtyyearsoldofgoodheightbutnotapparentlyrobust of gentlemanly address and faultless toilet such a one as youmightexpecttomeetonBroadwayInfactinthepopularsenseofthewordhewasthemost gentlemanly appearingman in the stage or that we saw on theroadHehadafairwhitecomplexionasifhehadalwayslivedintheshadeandan intellectual faceandwithhisquietmannersmighthavepassedforadivinitystudentwhohadseensomethingoftheworldIwassurprisedtofindontalkingwithhiminthecourseofthedaysjourneythathewasahunteratallmdashforhisgunwasnotmuchexposedmdashandyetmore to find thathewasprobablythechiefwhitehunterofMaineandwasknownallalongtheroadHehadalsohuntedinsomeoftheStatesfarthersouthandwestIafterwardsheardhim spokenof asonewhocould endure agreat deal of exposure andfatiguewithoutshowingtheeffectof itandhecouldnotonlyusegunsbutmake them being himself a gunsmith In the spring he had saved a stage-driverandtwopassengersfromdrowninginthebackwaterofthePiscataquisinFoxcroftonthisroadhavingswumashoreinthefreezingwaterandmadearaft and got them offmdashthough the horses were drownedmdashat great risk to

himselfwhile the only othermanwho could swimwithdrew to the nearesthouse toprevent freezingHecouldnowrideover this road fornothingHeknewourmanandremarkedthatwehadagoodIndianthereagoodhunteradding that hewas said to beworth $6000The Indian also knewhim andsaidtomethegreathunterTheformertoldmethathepracticedakindofstill-huntingneworuncommonin those parts that the caribou for instance fed round and round the samemeadowreturningonthesamepathandhelayinwaitforthemThe Indian sat on the front seat saying nothing to anybody with a stolidexpression of face as if barely awake to what was going on Again I wasstruckbythepeculiarvaguenessofhisreplieswhenaddressedinthestageoratthetavernsHereallyneversaidanythingonsuchoccasionsHewasmerelystirred up like a wild beast and passively muttered some insignificantresponseHisanswerinsuchcaseswasnevertheconsequenceofapositivementalenergybutvagueasapuffofsmokesuggestingnoresponsibilityandifyouconsideredityouwouldfindthatyouhadgotnothingoutofhimThiswasinsteadoftheconventionalpalaverandsmartnessofthewhitemanandequally profitable Most get no more than this out of the Indian andpronouncehim stolid accordingly Iwas surprised to seewhat a foolish andimpertinentstyleaMainemanapassengerusedinaddressinghimas ifhewereachildwhichonlymadehiseyesglistenalittleAtipsyCanadianaskedhimatataverninadrawlingtoneifhesmokedtowhichheansweredwithan indefinite Yes Wontyou lendmeyourpipea littlewhileasked theotherHe replied looking straight by themans headwith a face singularlyvacanttoallneighboringinterestsMegotnopipeyetIhadseenhimputanewonewithasupplyoftobaccointohispocketthatmorningOur little canoe so neat and strong drew a favorable criticism from all thewiseacresamongthetavernloungersalongtheroadBytheroadsideclosetothewheelsInoticedasplendidgreatpurplefringedorchiswithaspikeasbigasanepilobiumwhich Iwould fainhavestopped the stage topluckbutasthishadneverbeenknowntostopabearlikethecuronthestagethedriverwouldprobablyhavethoughtitawasteoftimeWhenwe reached the lake about half past eight in the evening itwas stillsteadily raining andharder thanbefore and in that fresh cool atmospherethehylodeswerepeepingandthetoadsringingaboutthelakeuniversallyasin the springwithus Itwasas if the seasonhad revolvedbackward twoorthreemonthsorIhadarrivedattheabodeofperpetualspringWehadexpected togoupon the lakeatonceandafterpaddlingup twoorthreemiles to campononeof its islandsbutonaccountof the steadyandincreasingrainwedecidedtogotooneof thetavernsfor thenight thoughformyownpartIshouldhavepreferredtocampout

About four oclock the nextmorning (July 24) though it was quite cloudyaccompaniedbythelandlordtothewatersedgeinthetwilightwelaunchedourcanoefromarockontheMooseheadLakeWhenIwastherefouryearsbeforewehadarathersmallcanoeforthreepersonsandIhadthoughtthatthistimeIwouldgetalargeronebutthepresentonewasevensmallerthanthatItwas18frac14feetlongby2feet6frac12incheswideinthemiddleandonefootdeepwithinsoIfoundbymeasurementandIjudgedthatitwouldweighnotfar from eighty pounds The Indian had recently made it himself and itssmallnesswas partly compensated for by its newness aswell as stanchnessandsolidityitbeingmadeofverythickbarkandribsOurbaggageweighedabout 166pounds so that the canoe carried about 600pounds in all or theweightoffourmenTheprincipalpartofthebaggagewasasusualplacedinthemiddleofthebroadestpartwhilewestowedourselvesinthechinksandcrannies that were left before and behind it where there was no room toextendourlegstheloosearticlesbeingtuckedintotheendsThecanoewasthusascloselypackedasamarket-basketandmightpossiblyhavebeenupsetwithoutspillinganyofitscontentsTheIndiansatonacross-barinthesternbutwe flaton thebottomwitha splintorchipbehindourbacks toprotectthemfromthecross-barandoneofuscommonlypaddledwiththeIndianHeforesaw that we should not want a pole till we reached the UmbazookskusRiveritbeingeitherdeadwaterordown-streamsofarandhewaspreparedtomakeasailofhisblanketinthebowsifthewindshouldbefairbutweneveruseditIthadrainedmoreorlessthefourpreviousdayssothatwethoughtwemightcountonsomefairweatherThewindwasatfirstsouthwesterlyPaddlingalongtheeasternsideofthelakeinthestillofthemorningwesoonsaw a few sheldrakes which the Indian called Shecorways and somepeetweetsNaramekechuson therockyshorewealsosawandheard loonsMedawislawhichhe saidwas a signofwind Itwas inspiriting tohear theregulardipof thepaddlesas if theywereourfinsorflippersandtorealizethatwewereat length fairlyembarkedWewhohad felt strangelyas stage-passengersandtavern-lodgersweresuddenlynaturalizedthereandpresentedwiththefreedomofthelakesandthewoodsHavingpassedthesmallrockyisles within two or three miles of the foot of the lake we had a shortconsultation respectingour course and inclined to thewestern shore for thesakeof its leeforotherwise if thewindshouldrise itwouldbeimpossibleforustoreachMountKineowhichisaboutmidwayupthelakeontheeastsidebutatitsnarrowestpartwhereprobablywecouldrecrossifwetookthewesternsideThewindisthechiefobstacletocrossingthelakesespeciallyinso small a canoeThe Indian remarked several times that he did not like tocrossthelakesinlittlumcanoebutneverthelessjustaswesayitmadenooddstohimHesometimestookastraightcourseupthemiddleofthelake

betweenSugarandDeerislandswhentherewasnowindMeasured on themapMoosehead Lake is twelvemileswide at thewidestplaceandthirtymileslonginadirectlinebutlongerasitliesThecaptainofthesteamercalled it thirty-eightmilesashesteeredWeshouldprobablygoaboutfortyTheIndiansaidthatitwascalledMspamebecauselargewaterSquawMountainrosedarklyonourleftneartheoutletoftheKennebecandwhattheIndiancalledSpencerBayMountainontheeastandalreadywesawMountKineobeforeusinthenorthPaddling near the shore we frequently heard the pe-pe of the olive-sidedflycatcheralsothewoodpeweeandthekingfisherthusearlyinthemorningTheIndianremindingusthathecouldnotworkwithouteatingwestoppedtobreakfast on themain shore southwest of Deer Island at a spot where theMimulusringensgrewabundantlyWetookoutourbagsandtheIndianmadea fire under a very large bleached log usingwhite pinebark from a stumpthoughhesaid thathemlockwasbetterandkindlingwithcanoebirchbarkOurtablewasa largepieceoffreshlypeeledbirchbark laidwrongsideupandourbreakfastconsistedofhard-breadfriedporkandstrongcoffeewellsweetenedinwhichwedidnotmissthemilkWhileweweregettingbreakfastabroodoftwelveblackdippershalfgrowncame paddling by within three or four rods not at all alarmed and theyloitered about as long as we stayed now huddled close together within acircle of eighteen inches in diameter now moving off in a long line verycunninglyYettheyboreacertainproportiontothegreatMooseheadLakeonwhosebosomtheyfloatedandIfeltasiftheywereunderitsprotectionLookingnorthwardfromthisplaceitappearedasifwewereenteringalargebayandwedidnotknowwhetherweshouldbeobligedtodivergefromourcourse and keep outside a point which we saw or should find a passagebetweenthisandthemainlandIconsultedmymapandusedmyglassandtheIndiandidthesamebutwecouldnotfindourplaceexactlyonthemapnorcouldwedetectanybreakintheshoreWhenIaskedtheIndianthewayheansweredIdontknowwhichIthoughtremarkablesincehehadsaidthathewasfamiliarwiththelakebut itappearedthathehadneverbeenupthisside Itwasmistydog-dayweatherandwehadalreadypenetratedasmallerbayofthesamekindandknockedthebottomoutofitthoughwehadbeenobligedtopassoverasmallbarbetweenanislandandtheshorewheretherewasbutjustbreadthanddepthenoughtofloatthecanoeandtheIndianhadobservedVeryeasymakumbridgeherebutnowitseemedthatifweheldon we should be fairly embayed Presently however though we had notstirredthemistliftedsomewhatandrevealedabreakintheshorenorthwardshowing that thepointwasaportionofDeer Islandand thatourcourse laywestwardofitWhereithadseemedacontinuousshoreeventhroughaglass

oneportionwasnowseenbythenakedeyetobemuchmoredistantthantheotherwhichoverlappeditmerelybythegreater thicknessof themistwhichstillrestedonitwhilethenearerorislandportionwascomparativelybareandgreen The line of separationwas very distinct and the Indian immediatelyremarked I guess you and I go theremdashI guess theres room formy canoethere This was his common expression instead of saying we He neveraddressedusbyournamesthoughcurioustoknowhowtheywerespelledandwhat they meant while we called him Polis He had already guessed veryaccuratelyatouragesandsaidthathewasforty-eightAfterbreakfastIemptiedthemeltedporkthatwasleft intothelakemakingwhatsailorscallaslickandwatchingtoseehowmuchitspreadoverandsmoothed the agitated surface The Indian looked at it a moment and saidThatmakehardpaddlumthroholdemcanoeSosayoldtimesWehastilyreloadedputtingthedisheslooseinthebowsthattheymightbeathand when wanted and set out again The western shore near which wepaddled along rose gently to a considerable height and was everywheredenselycoveredwiththeforestinwhichwasalargeproportionofhardwoodtoenlivenandrelievethefirandspruceThe Indian said that the usnea lichenwhichwe sawhanging from the treeswascalledchorchorqueWeaskedhimthenamesofseveralsmallbirdswhichwe heard this morning The wood thrush which was quite common andwhose note he imitated he said was called Adelungquamooktum butsometimeshecouldnot tell thenameof somesmallbirdwhich Iheardandknew but he said I tell all the birds about heremdashthis country cant telllittlumnoisebutIseeemthenIcantellIobservedthatIshouldliketogotoschooltohimtolearnhislanguagelivingontheIndianislandthewhilecouldnotthatbedoneOhyerherepliedgoodmanydosoIaskedhowlonghethought itwouldtakeHesaidoneweekItoldhimthatinthisvoyageIwouldtellhimallIknewandheshouldtellmeallheknewtowhichhereadilyagreedThe birds sang quite as in our woodsmdashthe red-eye redstart veery woodpeweeetcbutwesawnobluebirdsinallourjourneyandseveraltoldmeinBangor that they had not the bluebird there Mount Kineo which wasgenerallyvisiblethoughoccasionallyconcealedbyislandsorthemainlandinfronthadalevelbarofcloudconcealingitssummitandallthemountain-topsabout the lake were cut off at the same height Ducks of various kindsmdashsheldrake summerducks etcmdashwerequite commonand ranover thewaterbeforeusasfastasahorsetrotsThustheyweresoonoutofsightTheIndianaskedthemeaningofrealityasnearasIcouldmakeoutthewordwhich he said one of us had used also of interrent that is intelligent I

observed that he could rarely sound the letter r but used l as also r for lsometimes as load for road pickelel for pickerel Soogle Island for SugarIslandlockforrocketcYethetrilledtherprettywellaftermeHegenerallyaddedthesyllableumtohiswordswhenhecouldmdashaspaddlumetc I have once heard a Chippeway lecture whomade his audience laughunintentionally by puttingm after the word too which word he brought incontinuallyandunnecessarilyaccentingandprolongingthissoundintom-ahsonorouslyasifitwerenecessarytobringinsomuchofhisvernacularasarelieftohisorgansacompensationfortwistinghisjawsaboutandputtinghistongueintoeverycornerofhismouthashecomplainedthathewasobligedtodowhenhespokeEnglishTherewassomuchoftheIndianaccentresoundingthroughhisEnglishsomuchofthebow-arrowtangasmyneighborcallsitand Ihavenodoubt thatwordseemed tohim thebestpronounced Itwasawild and refreshing sound like that of the wind among the pines or theboomingofthesurfontheshoreI asked him the meaning of the word Musketicook the Indian name ofConcord River He pronounced it Muskeacuteeticook emphasizing the secondsyllable with a peculiar guttural sound and said that it meant deadwaterwhichitisandinthisdefinitionheagreedexactlywiththeStFrancisIndianwithwhomItalkedin1853OnapointonthemainlandsomemilessouthwestofSand-barIslandwherewe landed to stretchour legsand lookat thevegetationgoing inlanda fewstepsIdiscoveredafirestillglowingbeneathitsasheswheresomebodyhadbreakfastedandabedoftwigspreparedforthefollowingnightSoIknewnotonlythattheyhadjustleftbutthattheydesignedtoreturnandbythebreadthof the bed that therewasmore than one in the partyYoumight have gonewithin six feet of these signs without seeing them There grew the beakedhazeltheonlyhazelwhichIsawonthisjourneythediervillaruesevenfeethighwhichwasveryabundantonall the lakeand river shores andCornusstoloniferaorredosierwhosebarktheIndiansaidwasgoodtosmokeandwas calledmaquoxigill tobacco beforewhite people came to this countryIndiantobaccoTheIndianwasalwaysverycareful inapproaching theshore lestheshouldinjurehiscanoeontherockslettingitswingroundslowlysidewiseandwasstillmoreparticularthatweshouldnotstepintoitonshorenortillitfloatedfreeandthenshouldstepgentlylestweshouldopenitsseamsormakeaholeinthebottomHesaidthathewouldtelluswhentojumpSoonafter leaving this pointwepassed theKennebec or outlet of the lakeand heard the falls at the dam there for evenMooseheadLake is dammedAfterpassingDeerIslandwesawthelittlesteamerfromGreenvillefareastin themiddleof the lakeandsheappearednearlystationarySometimeswe

couldhardlytellherfromanislandwhichhadafewtreesonitHerewewereexposedtothewindfromoverthewholebreadthofthelakeandranalittleriskofbeingswampedWhile Ihadmyeye fixedon thespotwherea largefishhadleapedwetookinagallonortwoofwaterwhichfilledmylapbutwesoonreachedtheshoreandtookthecanoeoverthebaratSand-barIslandafewfeetwideonlyandsosavedaconsiderabledistanceOnelandedfirstatamoreshelteredplaceandwalking roundcaught thecanoeby theprow topreventitbeinginjuredagainsttheshoreAgain we crossed a broad bay opposite the mouth ofMoose River beforereaching the narrow strait atMountKineomadewhat the voyageurs call atraverse and found thewaterquite roughAvery littlewindon thesebroadlakesraisesaseawhichwillswampacanoeLookingofffromtheshorethesurfacemayappeartobeverylittleagitatedalmostsmoothamiledistantorifyouseeafewwhitecreststheyappearnearlylevelwiththerestofthelakebutwhenyougetoutsofaryoumayfindquiteasearunninganderelongbeforeyouthinkofitawavewillgentlycreepupthesideofthecanoeandfillyour lap like a monster deliberately covering you with its slime before itswallowsyouoritwillstrikethecanoeviolentlyandbreakintoitThesamethingmayhappenwhenthewindrisessuddenlythoughitwereperfectlycalmandsmooththereafewminutesbeforesothatnothingcansaveyouunlessyoucanswimashoreforitisimpossibletogetintoacanoeagainwhenitisupset Since you sit flat on the bottom though the danger should not beimminentalittlewaterisagreatinconveniencenottomentionthewettingofyour provisionsWe rarely crossed even a bay directly frompoint to pointwhentherewaswindbutmadeaslightcurvecorrespondingsomewhattotheshorethatwemightthesoonerreachitifthewindincreasedWhen thewind isaftandnot toostrong the IndianmakesaspritsailofhisblanketHethuseasilyskimsoverthewholelengthofthislakeinadayTheIndianpaddledononesideandoneofusontheothertokeepthecanoesteadyandwhenhewantedtochangehandshewouldsayTothersideHeassertedinanswertoourquestionsthathehadneverupsetacanoehimselfthoughhemayhavebeenupsetbyothersThinkofour littleeggshellofacanoe tossingacross thatgreat lake amereblackspecktotheeaglesoaringaboveitMycompanion trailedfor troutaswepaddledalongbut theIndianwarninghimthatabigfishmightupsetusfortherearesomeverylargeonesthereheagreed to pass the line quickly to him in the stern if he had a biteBesidestroutIheardofcuskwhitefishetcasfoundinthislakeWhile wewere crossing this bay whereMount Kineo rose dark before uswithin two or three miles the Indian repeated the tradition respecting this

mountainshavingancientlybeenacowmoosemdashhowamightyIndianhunterwhosenameIforgetsucceededinkillingthisqueenofthemoosetribewithgreat difficulty while her calf was killed somewhere among the islands inPenobscotBayandtohiseyesthismountainhadstilltheformofthemooseina recliningposture itsprecipitoussidepresenting theoutlineofherheadHe told this at some length though it did not amount to much and withapparent good faith and asked us howwe supposed the hunter could havekilledsuchamightymooseasthatmdashhowwecoulddoitWhereuponaman-of-war to firebroadsides intoherwas suggested etcAn Indian tells suchastoryasifhethoughtitdeservedtohaveagooddealsaidaboutitonlyhehasnotgot it to say and sohemakesup for thedeficiencybyadrawling tonelong-windednessandadumbwonderwhichhehopeswillbecontagiousWe approached the land again through pretty roughwater and then steereddirectlyacrossthelakeatitsnarrowestparttotheeasternsideandweresoonpartlyundertheleeofthemountainaboutamilenorthoftheKineoHousehavingpaddledabouttwentymilesItwasnowaboutnoonWe designed to stop there that afternoon and night and spent half an hourlookingalongtheshorenorthwardforasuitableplacetocampWetookoutallourbaggageatoneplaceinvainitbeingtoorockyandunevenandwhileengagedinthissearchwemadeourfirstacquaintancewiththemoose-flyAtlength half amile farther north by going half a dozen rods into the densespruceandfirwoodonthesideofthemountainalmostasdarkasacellarwefoundaplacesufficientlyclearandleveltoliedownonaftercuttingawayafewbushesWerequiredaspaceonlysevenfeetbysix forourbed the firebeingfourorfivefeetinfrontthoughitmadenooddshowroughthehearthwasbut itwasnotalwayseasy to find this in thosewoodsTheIndianfirstclearedapathtoitfromtheshorewithhisaxeandwethencarriedupallourbaggage pitched our tent andmade our bed in order to be ready for foulweather which then threatened us and for the night He gathered a largearmfuloffirtwigsbreakingthemoffwhichhesaidwerethebestforourbedpartly I thought because they were the largest and could be most rapidlycollectedIthadbeenrainingmoreorlessforfourorfivedaysandthewoodwasevendamper thanusualbuthegotdrybarkfor thefire fromtheundersideofadeadleaninghemlockwhichhesaidhecouldalwaysdoThisnoonhismindwasoccupiedwitha lawquestionandI referredhimtomycompanionwhowasa lawyer Itappeared thathehadbeenbuying landlately(Ithinkitwasahundredacres)buttherewasprobablyanincumbrancetoitsomebodyelseclaimingtohaveboughtsomegrassonitforthisyearHewished to know towhom the grass belonged andwas told that if the othermancouldprovethatheboughtthegrassbeforehePolisboughtthelandtheformer could take it whether the latter knew it or not To which he only

answered StrangeHewent over this several times fairly sat down to itwithhisbacktoatreeasifhemeanttoconfineustothistopichenceforthbutashemadenoheadwayonlyreachedthejumping-offplaceofhiswonderatwhitemensinstitutionsaftereachexplanationweletthesubjectdieHe said that he had fifty acres of grass potatoes etc somewhere aboveOldtownbesidessomeabouthishousethathehiredagooddealofhisworkhoeing etc andpreferredwhitemen to Indiansbecause theykeep steadyandknowhowAfterdinnerwereturnedsouthwardalongtheshoreinthecanoeonaccountof the difficulty of climbing over the rocks and fallen trees and began toascend the mountain along the edge of the precipice But a smart showercoming up just then the Indian crept under his canoe while we beingprotectedbyourrubbercoatsproceededtobotanizeSowesenthimbacktothecampforshelteragreeingthatheshouldcomethereforuswithhiscanoetoward night It had rained a little in the forenoon andwe trusted that thiswouldbetheclearing-upshowerwhichitprovedbutourfeetandlegswerethoroughlywet by the bushes The clouds breaking away a littlewe had aglorious wild view as we ascended of the broad lake with its fluctuatingsurface and numerous forest-clad islands extending beyond our sight bothnorthandsouthandtheboundlessforestundulatingawayfromitsshoresonevery side as densely packed as a rye-field and enveloping namelessmountainsinsuccessionbutabovealllookingwestwardoveralargeislandwasvisibleaverydistantpartofthelakethoughwedidnotthensuspectittobeMooseheadmdashatfirstamerebrokenwhitelineseenthroughthetopsoftheislandtreeslikehay-capsbutspreadingtoalakewhenwegothigherBeyondthis we saw what appears to be called Bald Mountain on the map sometwenty-fivemilesdistantnear thesourcesof thePenobscot Itwasaperfectlakeof thewoodsBut thiswasonlya transientgleam for the rainwasnotquiteoverLooking southward the heavens were completely overcast the mountainscapped with clouds and the lake generally wore a dark and stormyappearancebutfromitssurfacejustnorthofSugarIslandsixoreightmilesdistant therewas reflectedupward tous through themisty air abrightbluetinge from thedistantunseenskyofanother latitudebeyondTheyprobablyhad a clear sky then atGreenville the south endof the lakeStandingon amountain in themidst of a lakewherewouldyou look for the first signofapproachingfairweatherNotintotheheavensitseemsbutintothelakeAgainwemistookalittlerockyisletseenthroughthedriskwithsometallerbaretrunksorstumpsonitforthesteamerwithitssmoke-pipesbutasithadnotchangeditspositionafterhalfanhourwewereundeceivedSomuchdothe works ofman resemble the works of nature Amoosemightmistake a

steamer for a floating isle and not be scared till he heard its puffing or itswhistleIf I wished to see a mountain or other scenery under the most favorableauspicesIwouldgotoitinfoulweathersoastobetherewhenitclearedupwearetheninthemostsuitablemoodandnatureismostfreshandinspiringThereisnoserenitysofairasthatwhichisjustestablishedinatearfuleyeJackson in his Report on the Geology of Maine in 1838 says of thismountainHornstonewhichwillanswerforflintsoccursinvariouspartsoftheStatewheretrap-rockshaveacteduponsiliciousslateThelargestmassofthisstoneknownintheworldisMountKineouponMooseheadLakewhichappearstobeentirelycomposedofitandrisessevenhundredfeetabovethelakelevelThisvarietyofhornstoneIhaveseenineverypartofNewEnglandintheformofIndianarrowheadshatchetschiselsetcwhichwereprobablyobtained from thismountain by the aboriginal inhabitants of the country Ihavemyself foundhundredsof arrowheadsmadeof the samematerial It isgenerally slate-coloredwithwhite specksbecomingauniformwhitewhereexposed to the light and air and it breaks with a conchoidal fractureproducingaraggedcuttingedgeInoticedsomeconchoidalhollowsmorethanafootindiameterIpickedupasmallthinpiecewhichhadsosharpanedgethatIuseditasadullknifeandtoseewhatIcoulddofairlycutoffanaspenoneinchthickwithitbybendingitandmakingmanycutsthoughIcutmyfingersbadlywiththebackofitinthemeanwhileFromthesummitoftheprecipicewhichformsthesouthernandeasternsidesofthismountainpeninsulaandisitsmostremarkablefeaturebeingdescribedasfiveorsixhundredfeethighwelookedandprobablymighthavejumpeddownto thewateror to theseeminglydwarfish treeson thenarrowneckofland which connects it with the main It is a dangerous place to try thesteadiness of your nerves Hodge says that these cliffs descendperpendicularlyninetyfeetbelowthesurfaceofthewaterThe plants which chiefly attracted our attention on this mountain were themountaincinquefoil(Potentillatridentata)abundantandinbloomstillat theverybase by thewaterside though it is usually confined to the summits ofmountainsinourlatitudeverybeautifulharebellsoverhangingtheprecipicebear-berry the Canada blueberry (Vaccinium Canadense) similar to the VPennsylvanicum our earliest one but entire-leaved andwith a downy stemand leaf (I have not seen it inMassachusetts) Diervilla trifidaMicrostylisophioglossoides an orchidaceous plant new to uswild holly (NemopanthesCanadensis)thegreatround-leavedorchis(Platantheraorbiculata)notlonginbloomSpiranthescernuaat the topbunchberry reddeningasweascendedgreenatthebaseofthemountainredatthetopandthesmallfernWoodsiailvensisgrowingintuftsnowinfruitIhavealsoreceivedLiparisliliifoliaor

tway-bladefromthisspotHavingexploredthewondersofthemountainandtheweather being now entirely cleared upwe commenced the descentWemet the Indian puffing and panting about one third of the way up butthinkingthathemustbenearthetopandsayingthatittookhisbreathawayIthought that superstition had something to do with his fatigue Perhaps hebelievedthathewasclimbingoverthebackofatremendousmooseHesaidthathehadneverascendedKineoOnreachingthecanoewefoundthathehadcaughtalaketroutweighingaboutthreepoundsatthedepthoftwenty-fiveorthirtyfeetwhilewewereonthemountainWhenwegottothecampthecanoewastakenoutandturnedoverandaloglaidacrossittopreventitsbeingblownawayTheIndiancutsomelargelogsof dampand rottenhardwood to smoulder andkeep fire through the nightThe trout was fried for supper Our tent was of thin cotton cloth and quitesmall formingwith thegrounda triangularprismclosedat the rearendsixfeet long seven wide and four high so that we could barely sit up in themiddle It required two forked stakes a smooth ridge-pole and a dozen ormore pins to pitch it It kept off dew and wind and an ordinary rain andanswered our purposewell enoughWe reclinedwithin it till bedtime eachwithhisbaggageathisheadorelsesatabout thefirehavinghungourwetclothesonapolebeforethefireforthenightAswe sat there just before night lookingout through the duskywood theIndianheardanoisewhichhesaidwasmadebyasnakeHeimitateditatmyrequest making a low whistling notemdashpheetmdashpheetmdashtwo or three timesrepeatedsomewhatlikethepeepofthehylodesbutnotsoloudInanswertomyinquirieshesaidthathehadneverseenthemwhilemakingitbutgoingtothespothefinds thesnakeThishesaidonanotheroccasionwasasignofrainWhenIhadselectedthisplaceforourcamphehadremarkedthatthereweresnakes theremdashhesawthemBut theywontdoanyhurtIsaidOhnoheansweredjustasyousayitmakesnodifferencetomeHelayontherightsideofthetentbecauseashesaidhewaspartlydeafinone ear and he wanted to lie with his good ear up As we lay there heinquiredifIeverheardIndiansingIrepliedthatIhadnotoftenandaskedhimifhewouldnotfavoruswithasongHereadilyassentedandlyingonhis back with his blanket wrapped around him he commenced a slowsomewhatnasalyetmusicalchantinhisownlanguagewhichprobablywastaughthis tribe longagoby theCatholicmissionariesHe translated it toussentence by sentence afterwardwishing to see ifwe could remember it Itproved tobe avery simple religious exerciseorhymn theburdenofwhichwasthattherewasonlyoneGodwhoruledalltheworldThiswashammered(or sung)outvery thin so that somestanzaswell-nighmeantnothingatallmerelykeepinguptheideaHethensaidthathewouldsingusaLatinsong

butwedidnotdetectanyLatinonlyoneortwoGreekwordsinitmdashtherestmayhavebeenLatinwiththeIndianpronunciationHissingingcarriedmebacktotheperiodofthediscoveryofAmericatoSanSalvadorandtheIncaswhenEuropeansfirstencounteredthesimplefaithofthe IndianTherewas indeed abeautiful simplicityabout itnothingof thedarkandsavageonlythemildandinfantileThesentimentsofhumilityandreverencechieflywereexpressedItwasadenseanddampspruceandfirwoodinwhichwelayandexceptforourfireperfectlydarkandwhenIawokeinthenightIeitherheardanowlfromdeeper in theforestbehindusora loonfromadistanceover the lakeGettingupsome timeaftermidnight tocollect thescatteredbrands togetherwhilemycompanionsweresoundasleepIobservedpartlyinthefirewhichhad ceased to blaze a perfectly regular elliptical ring of light about fiveinchesinitsshortestdiametersixorseveninitslongerandfromoneeighthtoonequarterofaninchwideItwasfullyasbrightasthefirebutnotreddishorscarletlikeacoalbutawhiteandslumberinglightliketheglow-wormsIcouldtellitfromthefireonlybyitswhitenessIsawatoncethatitmustbephosphorescentwoodwhichIhadsooftenheardofbutneverchancedtoseePuttingmyfingeronitwithalittlehesitationIfoundthatitwasapieceofdeadmoose-wood(Acerstriatum)which theIndianhadcutoff inaslantingdirection the evening before Using my knife I discovered that the lightproceededfromthatportionofthesap-woodimmediatelyunderthebarkandthuspresentedaregularringattheendwhichindeedappearedraisedabovethe levelof thewoodandwhenIparedoff thebarkandcut into thesap itwasallaglowalongthelogIwassurprisedtofindthewoodquitehardandapparentlysoundthoughprobablydecayhadcommencedinthesapandIcutoutsomelittle triangularchipsandplacingtheminthehollowofmyhandcarriedthemintothecampwakedmycompanionandshowedthemtohimThey lit up the inside of my hand revealing the lines and wrinkles andappearingexactly likecoalsof fire raised toawhiteheatand I sawatoncehow probably the Indian jugglers had imposed on their people and ontravelerspretendingtoholdcoalsoffireintheirmouthsIalsonoticedthatpartofadecayedstumpwithinfourorfivefeetofthefirean inchwide and six inches long soft and shakingwood shonewith equalbrightnessIneglectedtoascertainwhetherourfirehadanythingtodowiththisbutthepreviousdaysrainandlong-continuedwetweatherundoubtedlyhadIwasexceedinglyinterestedbythisphenomenonandalreadyfeltpaidformyjourney It could hardly have thrilled me more if it had taken the form oflettersorofthehumanfaceIfIhadmetwiththisringoflightwhilegropingin this forest alone away from any fire I should have been still more

surprisedIlittlethoughtthattherewassuchalightshininginthedarknessofthewildernessformeThenextdaytheIndiantoldmetheirnameforthislightmdashartoosoqumdashandonmyinquiringconcerningthewill-o-the-wispandthelikephenomenahesaidthathisfolkssometimessawfirespassingalongatvariousheightsevenashighasthetreesandmakinganoiseIwaspreparedafterthistohearofthemoststartlingandunimaginedphenomenawitnessedbyhisfolkstheyareabroad at all hours and seasons in scenes so unfrequented by white menNaturemusthavemadeathousandrevelationstothemwhicharestillsecretstousI did not regret my not having seen this before since I now saw it undercircumstancessofavorableIwasinjusttheframeofmindtoseesomethingwonderful and this was a phenomenon adequate to my circumstances andexpectation and it putme on the alert to seemore like it I exulted like apagansuckledinacreedthathadneverbeenwornatallbutwasbran-newandadequatetotheoccasionIletscienceslideandrejoicedinthatlightasifithadbeenafellowcreatureIsawthatitwasexcellentandwasverygladtoknowthatitwassocheapAscientificexplanationasitiscalledwouldhavebeenaltogetheroutofplace thereThat is forpaledaylightSciencewith itsretortswouldhaveputmetosleepitwastheopportunitytobeignorantthatIimprovedItsuggestedtomethat therewassomethingtobeseenifonehadeyes Itmade a believer ofmemore than before I believed that thewoodswerenottenantlessbutchoke-fullofhonestspiritsasgoodasmyselfanydaymdashnotanemptychamber inwhichchemistrywas left toworkalonebutaninhabited housemdashand for a few moments I enjoyed fellowship with themYourso-calledwisemangoestryingtopersuadehimselfthatthereisnoentitytherebuthimselfandhistrapsbutitisagreatdealeasiertobelievethetruthItsuggestedtoothatthesameexperiencealwaysgivesbirthtothesamesortofbeliefor religionOne revelationhasbeenmade to the Indiananother tothewhitemanIhavemuchtolearnoftheIndiannothingofthemissionaryIamnotsurebutallthatwouldtemptmetoteachtheIndianmyreligionwouldbehispromisetoteachmehisLongenoughIhadheardofirrelevantthingsnowat length Iwasglad tomakeacquaintancewith the light thatdwells inrottenwoodWhereisallyourknowledgegonetoItevaporatescompletelyforithasnodepthIkeptthoselittlechipsandwetthemagainthenextnightbuttheyemittednolightSATURDAYJuly25At breakfast this Saturday morning the Indian evidently curious to knowwhatwouldbeexpectedofhimthenextdaywhetherweshouldgoalongornot asked me how I spent the Sunday when at home I told him that I

commonlysatinmychamberreadingetcintheforenoonandwenttowalkin theafternoonAtwhichheshookhisheadandsaidEr that isverbadHowdoyouspenditIaskedHesaidthathedidnoworkthathewenttochurch at Oldtown when he was at home in short he did as he had beentaughtbythewhitesThisledtoadiscussioninwhichIfoundmyselfintheminorityHestatedthathewasaProtestantandaskedmeifIwasIdidnotatfirstknowwhattosaybutIthoughtthatIcouldanswerwithtruththatIwasWhenwewerewashingthedishesinthelakemanyfishesapparentlychivincamecloseuptoustogettheparticlesofgreaseTheweatherseemedtobemoresettledthismorningandwesetoutearlyinorder to finish our voyage up the lake before the wind arose Soon afterstarting the Indian directed our attention to the Northeast Carry which wecouldplainlyseeaboutthirteenmilesdistantinthatdirectionasmeasuredonthemapthoughitiscalledmuchfartherThiscarryisarudewoodenrailroadrunningnorthandsouthabout twomilesperfectlystraight fromthe lake tothePenobscotthroughalowtractwithaclearingthreeorfourrodswidebutlowasitisitpassesovertheheightoflandthereThisopeningappearedasaclear bright or light point in the horizon resting on the edge of the lakewhosebreadthahaircouldhavecoveredataconsiderabledistancefromtheeye and of no appreciable height We should not have suspected it to bevisibleiftheIndianhadnotdrawnourattentiontoitItwasaremarkablekindoflighttosteerformdashdaylightseenthroughavistaintheforestmdashbutvisibleasfarasanordinarybeaconatnightWe crossed a deep and wide bay which makes eastward north of KineoleavinganislandonourleftandkeepinguptheeasternsideofthelakeThiswayorthatledtosomeTomheganorSocatarianstreamupwhichtheIndianhadhuntedandwhitherIlongedtogoThelastnamehoweverhadabogussoundtoomuchlikesectarianformeasifamissionaryhadtamperedwithitbutIknewthattheIndianswereveryliberalIthinkIshouldhaveinclinedtotheTomheganfirstWethencrossedanotherbroadbaywhichaswecouldnolongerobservetheshoreparticularlyaffordedampletimeforconversationTheIndiansaidthathe had got his money by hunting mostly high up theWest Branch of thePenobscot and toward theheadof theSt Johnhehadhunted there fromaboyandknewallaboutthatregionHisgamehadbeenbeaverotterblackcat(orfisher)sablemooseetcLoup-cervier(orCanadalynx)wereplentyyetinburntgroundsForfoodinthewoodsheusespartridgesducksdriedmoose-meathedgehogetcLoonstooweregoodonlybileemgoodHetoldusat some lengthhowhehadsuffered fromstarvationwhenamere ladbeingovertakenbywinterwhenhuntingwithtwogrownIndiansinthenorthernpartofMaineandobligedtoleavetheircanoeonaccountofice

Pointing into thebayhe said that itwas theway tovarious lakeswhichheknewOnlysolemnbear-hauntedmountainswith theirgreatwoodedslopeswerevisiblewhereasmanisnotwesupposesomeotherpower tobeMyimaginationpersonifiedtheslopesthemselvesasifbytheirverylengththeywouldwaylayyouandcompelyoutocampagainonthembeforenightSomeinvisiblegluttonwouldseemtodropfromthetreesandgnawattheheartofthesolitaryhunterwhothreadedthosewoodsandyetIwastemptedtowalkthereTheIndiansaidthathehadbeenalongthereseveraltimesI askedhimhowheguidedhimself in thewoods Oh said he I can tellgoodmanywaysWhen I pressed him further he answered Sometimes Ilookum side-hill and he glanced toward a high hill or mountain on theeasternshoregreatdifferencebetweenthenorthandsouthseewherethesunhas shonemost So treesmdashthe large limbs bend toward south Sometimes Ilookum locks (rocks) I asked what he saw on the rocks but he did notdescribeanythinginparticularansweringvaguelyinamysteriousordrawlingtoneBarelocksonlakeshoremdashgreatdifferencebetweennorthsoutheastwest sidemdashcan tell what the sun has shone on Suppose said I that Ishouldtakeyouinadarknightrightuphereintothemiddleofthewoodsahundredmilessetyoudownandturnyouroundquicklytwentytimescouldyou steer straight toOldtown Oh yer said he have done prettymuchsame thing I will tell you Some years ago I met an old white hunter atMillinocketverygoodhunterHesaidhecouldgoanywhereinthewoodsHewanted to hunt with me that day so we start We chase a moose all theforenoonroundandroundtillmiddleofafternoonwhenwekillhimThenIsaid tohim Nowyougostraight tocampDontgoroundandroundwherewevebeenbutgostraightHesaidIcantdothatIdontknowwhereIamWhereyouthinkcampIaskedHepointedsoThenI laughathimI taketheleadandgorightofftheotherwaycrossourtracksmanytimesstraightcamp How do you do that asked I Oh I cant tell you he repliedGreatdifferencebetweenmeandwhitemanIt appeared as if the sources of informationwere so various that he did notgiveadistinctconsciousattentiontoanyoneandsocouldnotreadilyrefertoanywhenquestionedabout itbuthefoundhiswayverymuchasananimaldoesPerhapswhat iscommonlycalled instinct in theanimal in thiscase ismerelyasharpenedandeducatedsenseOftenwhenanIndiansaysIdontknowinregardtotherouteheistotakehedoesnotmeanwhatawhitemanwouldbythosewordsforhisIndianinstinctmaytellhimstillasmuchasthemost confidentwhitemanknowsHedoesnot carry things inhis head norremember the route exactly like a white man but relies on himself at themomentNothavingexperiencedtheneedoftheothersortofknowledgealllabeledandarrangedhehasnotacquiredit

ThewhitehunterwithwhomItalkedinthestageknewsomeoftheresourcesof the Indian He said that he steered by the wind or by the limbs of thehemlocks which were largest on the south side also sometimes when heknew that therewas a lake near by firing his gun and listening to hear thedirectionanddistanceoftheechofromoveritThecoursewetookoverthislakeandothersafterwardwasrarelydirectbutasuccessionofcurvesfrompoint topointdigressingconsiderablyintoeachof thebaysand thiswasnotmerelyonaccountof thewind for the Indianlookingtowardthemiddleof the lakesaid itwashard togothereeasier tokeepneartheshorebecausehethusgotoveritbysuccessivereachesandsawbytheshorehowhegotalongThe following will suffice for a common experience in crossing lakes in acanoeAstheforenoonadvancedthewindincreasedThelastbaywhichwecrossed before reaching the desolate pier at theNortheastCarrywas twoorthreemilesover and thewindwas southwesterlyAftergoinga thirdof theway thewaveshadincreasedsoasoccasionally towashinto thecanoeandwe saw that it was worse and worse ahead At first we might have turnedabout but were not willing to It would have been of no use to follow thecourseoftheshorefornotonlythedistancewouldhavebeenmuchgreaterbutthewavesranstillhigherthereonaccountofthegreatersweepthewindhad At any rate it would have been dangerous now to alter our coursebecausethewaveswouldhavestruckusatanadvantageItwillnotdotomeetthematrightanglesforthentheywillwashinbothsidesbutyoumusttakethemquarteringSotheIndianstoodupinthecanoeandexertedallhisskillandstrengthforamileortwowhileIpaddledrightalonginordertogivehimmore steerage-wayFormore than amile hedidnot allowa singlewave tostrikethecanoeasitwouldbutturneditquicklyfromthissidetothatsothatitwouldalwaysbeonornearthecrestofawavewhenitbrokewhereallitsforcewasspentandwemerelysettleddownwithitAtlengthI jumpedoutontotheendofthepieragainstwhichthewavesweredashingviolently inorder to lighten the canoe and catch it at the landingwhichwas notmuchsheltered but just as I jumped we took in two or three gallons of water Iremarked to the Indian Youmanaged thatwell towhichhe replied VerfewmendothatGreatmanywaveswhenI lookoutforoneanothercomequickWhile the Indian went to get cedar bark etc to carry his canoe with wecooked the dinner on the shore at this end of the carry in the midst of asprinklingrainHe prepared his canoe for carrying in thiswiseHe took a cedar shingle orsplinteighteenincheslongandfourorfivewideroundedatoneendthatthecornersmightnotbeinthewayandtieditwithcedarbarkbytwoholesmade

midway near the edge on each side to the middle cross-bar of the canoeWhen the canoe was lifted upon his head bottom up this shingle with itsrounded end uppermost distributed theweight over his shoulders and headwhileabandofcedarbark tied to thecross-baroneachsideof theshinglepassedroundhisbreastandanotherlongeroneoutsideofthelastroundhisforeheadalsoahandoneachside-rail served tosteer thecanoeandkeep itfromrockingHethuscarrieditwithhisshouldersheadbreastforeheadandbothhandsasiftheupperpartofhisbodywereallonehandtoclaspandholdit If you know of a better way I should like to hear of it A cedar treefurnishedallthegearinthiscaseasithadthewoodworkofthecanoeOneofthe paddles rested on the cross-bars in the bows I took the canoe uponmyheadandfoundthatIcouldcarryitwitheasethoughthestrapswerenotfittedto my shoulders but I let him carry it not caring to establish a differentprecedentthoughhesaidthatifIwouldcarrythecanoehewouldtakealltherestofthebaggageexceptmycompanionsThisshingleremainedtiedtothecross-bar throughout the voyagewas always ready for the carries and alsoservedtoprotectthebackofonepassengerWewereobliged togoover this carry twiceour loadwas sogreatBut thecarrieswereanagreeablevarietyandweimprovedtheopportunitytogathertherareplantswhichwehadseenwhenwereturnedemptyhandedWe reached the Penobscot about four oclock and found there some StFrancisIndiansencampedonthebankinthesameplacewhereIcampedwithfourIndiansfouryearsbeforeTheyweremakingacanoeandasthendryingmoose-meatThemeatlookedverysuitabletomakeablackbrothatleastOurIndiansaiditwasnotgoodTheircampwascoveredwithsprucebarkTheyhadgotayoungmoosetakenintheriverafortnightbeforeconfinedinasortof cage of logs piled up cob-fashion seven or eight feet high It was quitetameabout four feethigh andcoveredwithmoose-fliesTherewasa largequantity of cornel (C stolonifera) red maple and also willow and aspenboughsstuckthroughbetweenthelogsonallsidesbuttendsoutandontheirleavesitwasbrowsingItlookedatfirstasifitwereinabowerratherthanapenOurIndiansaidthatheusedblacksprucerootstosewcanoeswithobtainingit from high lands or mountains The St Francis Indian thought thatwhitespruce rootsmightbebestBut the formersaid Nogoodbreakcant splitemalsothattheywerehardtogetdeepingroundbuttheblackwerenearthesurfaceonhigherlandaswellas tougherHesaidthat thewhitesprucewas subekoondark black skusk I told him I thought that I could make acanoebutheexpressedgreatdoubtofitatanyratehethoughtthatmyworkwouldnotbeneatthefirsttimeAnIndianatGreenvillehadtoldmethatthewinterbarkthatisbarktakenoffbeforethesapflowsinMaywasharderand

muchbetterthansummerbarkHaving reloaded we paddled down the Penobscot which as the Indianremarked and even I detected remembering how it looked before wasuncommonly full We soon after saw a splendid yellow lily (LiliumCanadense)bytheshorewhichIpluckedItwassixfeethighandhadtwelveflowers in twowhorls formingapyramid suchas Ihave seen inConcordWeafterwardsawmanymore thus tallalongthisstreamandalsostillmorenumerous on the East Branch and on the latter one which I thoughtapproached yet nearer to the Lilium superbum The Indian asked what wecalleditandsaidthattheloots(roots)weregoodforsoupthatistocookwithmeattothickenittakingtheplaceofflourTheygettheminthefallIdugsomeandfoundamassofbulbsprettydeep in theearth twoinches indiameterlookingandeventastingsomewhatlikerawgreencornontheearWhenwehadgoneaboutthreemilesdownthePenobscotwesawthroughthetree-tops a thunder-shower coming up in the west and we looked out acamping-place in good season about five oclock on thewest side not farbelow themouthofwhat JoeAitteon in 53calledLobsterStreamcomingfromLobsterPondOurpresentIndianhoweverdidnotadmitthisnamenoreven that of Matahumkeag which is on the map but called the lakeBeskabekukI will describe once for all the routine of camping at this season WegenerallytoldtheIndianthatwewouldstopatthefirstsuitableplacesothathemightbeonthelookoutforitHavingobservedaclearhardandflatbeachtolandonfreefrommudandfromstoneswhichwouldinjurethecanoeonewouldrunupthebanktoseeiftherewereopenandlevelspaceenoughforthecampbetweenthetreesorifitcouldbeeasilyclearedpreferringatthesametimeacoolplaceonaccountofinsectsSometimeswepaddledamileormorebefore findingone toourminds forwhere the shorewas suitable thebankwouldoftenbetoosteeporelsetoolowandgrassyandthereforemosquitoeyWe then took out the baggage and drewup the canoe sometimes turning itover on shore for safetyThe Indian cut a path to the spotwehad selectedwhichwasusuallywithintwoorthreerodsofthewaterandwecarriedupourbaggageOneperhapstakescanoebirchbarkalwaysathandanddeaddrywoodorbarkandkindlesafirefiveorsixfeetinfrontofwhereweintendtolieItmattersnotcommonlyonwhichsidethisisbecausethereislittleornowindinsodenseawoodatthatseasonandthenhegetsakettleofwaterfromthe river and takes out the pork bread coffee etc from their severalpackagesAnothermeanwhilehavingtheaxecutsdownthenearestdeadrockmapleorother dry hardwood collecting several large logs to last through the nightalso agreen stakewith anotchor fork to itwhich is slantedover the fire

perhapsrestingonarockorforkedstaketohangthekettleonandtwoforkedstakesandapoleforthetentThe third man pitches the tent cuts a dozen or more pins with his knifeusuallyofmoose-woodthecommonunderwoodtofastenitdownwithandthen collects an armful or two of fir twigs arbor-vitaelig spruce or hemlockwhicheverisathandandmakesthebedbeginningateitherendandlayingthe twigswrong side up in regular rows covering the stub ends of the lastrowfirsthoweverfillingthehollowsifthereareanywithcoarsermaterialWrangel says that his guides in Siberia first strewed a quantity of drybrushwoodonthegroundandthencedartwigsonthatCommonlybythetimethebedismadeorwithinfifteenortwentyminutesthewaterboilstheporkisfriedandsupperisreadyWeeatthissittingontheground or a stump if there is any around a large piece of birch bark for atableeachholdingadipperinonehandandapieceofship-breadorfriedporkintheotherfrequentlymakingapasswithhishandorthrustinghisheadintothesmoketoavoidthemosquitoesNext pipes are lit by thosewho smoke andveils aredonnedby thosewhohave themandwehastilyexamineanddryourplants anointour facesandhandsandgotobedmdashandmdashthemosquitoesThoughyouhavenothingtodobutseethecountrytheresrarelyanytimetospare hardly enough to examine a plant before the night or drowsiness isuponyouSuchwastheordinaryexperiencebutthiseveningwehadcampedearlieronaccountoftherainandhadmoretimeWefound thatourcampto-nightwasonanoldandnowmore thanusuallyindistinct supply road running along the riverWhat is called a road thereshowsnorutsortraceofwheelsfortheyarenotusednorindeedofrunnerssincetheyareusedonlyinthewinterwhenthesnowisseveralfeetdeepItisonlyanindistinctvistathroughthewoodwhichittakesanexperiencedeyetodetectWehadnosoonerpitchedour tent than the thunder-showerburstonusandwehastilycreptunderitdrawingourbagsafteruscurioustoseehowmuchofashelterourthincottonroofwasgoingtobeinthisexcursionThoughtheviolenceoftherainforcedafineshowerthroughtheclothbeforeitwasfairlywettedandshrunkwithwhichwewerewellbedewedwemanaged tokeepprettydryonlyaboxofmatcheshavingbeenleftoutandspoiledandbeforewe were aware of it the shower was over and only the dripping treesimprisonedusWishingtoseewhatfishestherewereintherivertherewecastourlinesoverthewetbusheson the shorebut theywere repeatedly sweptdown the swift

streaminvainSoleavingtheIndianwetookthecanoejustbeforedarkanddroppeddowntheriverafewrodstofishatthemouthofasluggishbrookonthe opposite sideWe pushed up this a rod or two where perhaps only acanoe had been before But though there were a few small fishes mostlychivin there we were soon driven off by the mosquitoes While there weheardtheIndianfirehisguntwiceinsuchrapidsuccessionthatwethoughtitmustbedouble-barreledthoughweobservedafterwardthatitwassingleHisobjectwastocleanoutanddryitaftertherainandhethenloadeditwithballbeing now on ground where he expected to meet with large game Thissuddenloudcrashingnoiseinthestillaislesoftheforestaffectedmelikeaninsulttonatureorillmannersatanyrateasifyouweretofireaguninahallor temple It was not heard far however except along the river the soundbeingrapidlyhusheduporabsorbedbythedamptreesandmossygroundTheIndianmadealittlesmotheredfireofdampleavesclosetothebackofthecamp that the smokemightdrive throughandkeepout themosquitoesbutjustbeforewefellasleepthissuddenlyblazedupandcamenearsettingfiretothetentWewereconsiderablymolestedbymosquitoesatthiscampSUNDAYJuly26The note of the white-throated sparrow a very inspiriting but almost wirysoundwas the first heard in themorning andwith this all thewoods rangThiswastheprevailingbirdinthenorthernpartofMaineTheforestgenerallywasallalivewiththematthisseasonandtheywereproportionallynumerousand musical about Bangor They evidently breed in that State Thoughcommonly unseen their simple ah te-te-te te-te-te te-te-te so sharp andpiercingwasasdistincttotheearasthepassageofasparkoffireshotintothedarkestoftheforestwouldbetotheeyeIthoughtthattheycommonlyuttereditas theyflewIhear thisnotefora fewdaysonly in thespringas theygothroughConcord and in the fall see them again going southward but thentheyaremuteWewere commonly arousedby their lively strainvery earlyWhataglorioustimetheymusthaveinthatwildernessfarfrommankindandelectiondayI told the Indian that we would go to church to Chesuncook this (Sunday)morning some fifteenmiles Itwas settledweather at lastA few swallowsflittedoverthewaterweheardMarylandyellow-throatsalongtheshorethephebenotesofthechickadeeandIbelieveredstartsandmoose-fliesoflargesizepursuedusinmidstreamTheIndianthoughtthatweshouldliebyonSundaySaidheWecomeherelookum things look all round but come Sunday lock up all that and thenMondaylookagainHespokeofanIndianofhisacquaintancewhohadbeenwithsomeministerstoKtaadnandhadtoldhimhowtheyconductedThishedescribedinalowandsolemnvoiceTheymakealongprayereverymorning

andnightandateverymealComeSundaysaidhetheystopemnogoatall that daymdashkeep stillmdashpreach all daymdashfirst one then another just likechurch Oh ver goodmen One day said he going along a river theycametothebodyofamaninthewaterdrownedgoodwhileallreadyfalltopiecesTheygorightashoremdashstoptheregonofartherthatdaymdashtheyhavemeetingtherepreachandprayjust likeSundayThentheygetpolesandliftup the body and they go back and carry the bodywith themOh they vergoodmenI judged from this account that their every campwas a camp-meeting andtheyhadmistakentheirroutemdashtheyshouldhavegonetoEasthamthat theywantedanopportunitytopreachsomewheremorethantoseeKtaadnIreadofanothersimilarpartythatseemtohavespenttheirtimetheresingingthesongsofZionIwasgladthatIdidnotgotothatmountainwithsuchslowcoachesHowever theIndianaddedplyingthepaddleall thewhile that ifwewouldgoalonghemustgowithusheourmanandhesupposethatifhenotakumpay forwhat he do Sunday then thers no harm but if he takum pay thenwrongItoldhimthathewasstricterthanwhitemenNeverthelessInoticedthathedidnotforgettoreckonintheSundaysatlastHeappearedtobeaveryreligiousmanandsaidhisprayersinaloudvoiceinIndian kneeling before the camp morning and eveningmdashsometimesscramblingupagaininhastewhenhehadforgottenthisandsayingthemwithgreatrapidityInthecourseofthedayheremarkednotveryoriginallyPoormanrememberumGodmorethanrichWe soon passed the island where I had camped four years before and Irecognized thevery spotThedeadwater amile or twobelow it the Indiancalled Beskabekukskishtuk from the lake Beskabekuk which empties inaboveThisdeadwaterhesaidwasagreatplaceformoosealwaysWesawthegrassbentwhereamoosecameout thenightbeforeandtheIndiansaidthathecouldsmelloneas farashecouldseehimbutheadded that ifheshouldseefiveorsixto-dayclosebycanoehenoshootemAccordinglyashewastheonlyoneofthepartywhohadagunorhadcomea-hunting themooseweresafeJust below this a cat owl flew heavily over the stream and he asking if Iknewwhatitwasimitatedverywellthecommonhoohoohoohoorerhooof our woodsmaking a hard guttural sound Ugh ugh ughmdashugh ughWhen we passed the Moose-horn he said that it had no name What JoeAitteonhad calledRagmuff he calledPaytaytequick and said that itmeantBurntGroundStreamWe stopped therewhere I had stopped before and Ibathed in this tributary Itwas shallowbut cold apparently too cold for theIndian who stood looking on As we were pushing away again a white-headedeagle sailedoverourheadsA reachsomemilesabovePineStream

wheretherewereseveralislandstheIndiansaidwasNonglangyisDeadwaterPine Stream he called Black River and said that its Indian name wasKarsaootukHecouldgotoCaribouLakethatwayWe carried a part of the baggage about Pine StreamFallswhile the IndianwentdowninthecanoeABangormerchanthadtoldusthattwomeninhisemployweredrowned some timeagowhilepassing these falls in abatteauandathirdclungtoarockallnightandwastakenoffinthemorningTherewere magnificent great purple fringed orchises on this carry and theneighboring shores I measured the largest canoe birch which I saw in thisjourneyneartheendofthecarryItwas14frac12feetincircumferenceattwofeetfrom thegroundbut at five feetdivided into threepartsThecanoebirchesthereaboutswerecommonlymarkedbyconspicuousdarkspiralridgeswithagroove between so that I thought at first that they had been struck bylightningbutas theIndiansaid itwasevidentlycausedby thegrainof thetreeHecutasmallwoodyknobasbigasafilbert fromthe trunkofafirapparently an old balsamvesicle filledwithwoodwhich he saidwas goodmedicineAfterwehadembarkedandgonehalfamilemycompanionrememberedthathe had left his knife andwe paddled back to get it against the strong andswift currentThis taught us the difference between going up and down thestream for while we were working our way back a quarter of a mile weshouldhavegonedownamileandahalfatleastSowelandedandwhileheand the Indianwere gone back for it Iwatched themotions of the foam akindofwhitewater-fowlneartheshorefortyorfiftyrodsbelowItalternatelyappeared and disappeared behind the rock being carried round by an eddyEventhissemblanceoflifewasinterestingonthatlonelyriverImmediatelybelowthesefallswastheChesuncookDeadwatercausedbytheflowingbackofthelakeAswepaddledslowlyoverthistheIndiantoldusastory of his hunting thereabouts and something more interesting abouthimselfItappearedthathehadrepresentedhistribeatAugustaandalsoonceatWashingtonwherehehadmetsomeWesternchiefsHehadbeenconsultedat Augusta and gave advice which he said was followed respecting theeastern boundary ofMaine as determined by highlands and streams at thetimeof thedifficultieson thatsideHewasemployedwith thesurveyorsonthe lineAlsohehadcalledonDanielWebster inBoston at the timeofhisBunkerHillorationI was surprised to hear him say that he liked to go to Boston New YorkPhiladelphiaetcetcthathewouldliketolivethereButthenasifrelentingalittlewhenhethoughtwhatapoorfigurehewouldmakethereheaddedIsuppose I live inNewYork I be poorest hunter I expectHe understoodverywellbothhissuperiorityandhisinferioritytothewhitesHecriticisedthe

people of the United States as compared with other nations but the onlydistinctideawithwhichhelaboredwasthattheywereverystrongbutlikesomeindividualstoofastHemusthavethecreditofsayingthisjustbeforethe general breaking down of railroads and banks He had a great idea ofeducation and would occasionally break out into such expressions as thisKademymdasha-cad-e-mymdashgood thingmdashI suppose they usum Fifth ReaderthereYoubeencollegeFromthisdeadwatertheoutlinesofthemountainsaboutKtaadnwerevisibleThe top ofKtaadnwas concealed by a cloud but the SouneunkMountainswerenearerandquitevisibleWesteeredacrossthenorthwestendofthelakefromwhichwe lookeddownsouth-southeast thewhole length toJoeMerryMountain seenover its extremity It is an agreeable change to cross a lakeafteryouhavebeenshutupinthewoodsnotonlyonaccountofthegreaterexpanseofwaterbutalsoofskyItisoneofthesurpriseswhichNaturehasinstore for the traveler in the forestTo lookdown in thiscaseovereighteenmilesofwaterwasliberatingandcivilizingevenNodoubttheshortdistancetowhichyoucanseeinthewoodsandthegeneraltwilightwouldatlengthreact on the inhabitants andmake them salvages The lakes also reveal themountains and give ample scope and range to our thought The very gullswhich we saw sitting on the rocks like white specks or circling aboutremindedmeof custom-houseofficersAlready therewerehalf a dozen loghutsabout thisendof the lake thoughso far froma road Iperceive that inthesewoodstheearliestsettlementsareforvariousreasonsclusteringaboutthe lakes but partly I think for the sake of the neighborhood as the oldestclearingsTheyareforestschoolsalreadyestablishedmdashgreatcentresoflightWater is a pioneer which the settler follows taking advantage of itsimprovementsThusfaronlyIhadbeenbeforeAboutnoonweturnednorthwardupabroadkindofestuaryandatitsnortheastcornerfoundtheCaucomgomocRiverandafter going about a mile from the lake reached the Umbazookskus whichcomesinontherightatapointwheretheformerrivercomingfromthewestturns short to the south Our course was up the Umbazookskus but as theIndianknewofagoodcamping-place that isacoolplacewheretherewerefew mosquitoes about half a mile farther up the Caucomgomoc we wentthither The latter river judging from the map is the longer and principalstream and therefore itsnamemustprevail below the junctionSoquicklywe changed the civilizing sky of Chesuncook for the dark wood of theCaucomgomocOnreaching theIndianscamping-groundon thesouthsidewherethebankwasaboutadozenfeethighIreadonthetrunkofafirtreeblazedbyanaxeaninscriptionincharcoalwhichhadbeenleftbyhimItwassurmountedbyadrawingofabearpaddlingacanoewhichhesaidwas thesignwhich had been used by his family alwaysThe drawing though rude

couldnotbemistaken foranythingbutabearandhedoubtedmyability tocopyitTheinscriptionranthusverbatimetliteratimIinterlinetheEnglishofhisIndianashegaveittomeJuly261853

niasosebWealoneJosephPoliselioiPolisstartsiaoltaforOldtownonkenirightawayquambiJuly151855niasosebHeaddednowbelowmdash1857July26JoPolis

This was one of his homes I saw where he had sometimes stretched hismoose-hidesontheoppositeorsunnynorthsideoftheriverwheretherewasanarrowmeadowAfter we had selected a place for our camp and kindled our fire almostexactly on the site of the Indians last camphere he looking up observedThattreedangerItwasadeadpartmorethanafootindiameterofalargecanoebirchwhichbranchedat thegroundThisbranch rising thirty feetormoreslanteddirectlyover thespotwhichwehadchosenforourbedI toldhimtotryitwithhisaxebuthecouldnotshakeitperceptiblyandthereforeseemedinclinedtodisregarditandmycompanionexpressedhiswillingnesstoruntheriskButitseemedtomethatweshouldbefoolstolieunderitforthough the lower part was firm the top for aught we knew might be justreadytofallandweshouldatanyratebeveryuneasyifthewindaroseinthe

nightItisacommonaccidentformencampinginthewoodstobekilledbyafallingtreeSothecampwasmovedtotheothersideofthefireItwasasusualadampandshaggyforest thatCaucomgomoconeand themost you knew about it was that on this side it stretched toward thesettlements and on that to still more unfrequented regions You carried somuchtopographyinyourmindalwaysmdashandsometimesitseemedtomakeaconsiderable difference whether you sat or lay nearer the settlements orfartheroffthanyourcompanionsmdashweretherearorfrontiermanofthecampButthereisreallythesamedifferencebetweenourpositionswhereverwemaybecampedandsomearenearerthefrontiersonfeather-bedsinthetownsthanothersonfirtwigsinthebackwoodsThe Indian said that the Umbazookskus being a dead stream with broadmeadowswasagoodplaceformooseandhefrequentlycamea-huntingherebeingoutalonethreeweeksormorefromOldtownHesometimesalsowenta-hunting to the Seboois Lakes taking the stage with his gun andammunition axe and blankets hard-bread and pork perhaps for a hundredmilesof thewayand jumpedoffat thewildestplaceon the roadwherehewasatonceathomeandevery rodwasa tavern-site forhimThen after ashort journeythroughthewoodshewouldbuildaspruce-barkcanoeinoneday putting but few ribs into it that itmight be light and after doing hishuntingwithitonthelakeswouldreturnwithhisfursthesamewayhehadcomeThusyouhaveanIndianavailinghimselfcunninglyoftheadvantagesof civilizationwithout losing anyof hiswoodcraft but provinghimself themoresuccessfulhunterforitThismanwasverycleverandquicktolearnanythinginhislineOurtentwasofakindnewtohimbutwhenhehadonceseenitpitcheditwassurprisinghowquicklyhewouldfindandpreparethepoleandforkedstakestopitchitwithcuttingandplacing themright the first time thoughIamsure that themajorityofwhitemenwouldhaveblunderedseveraltimesThisrivercamefromCaucomgomocLakeabouttenmilesfartherupThoughitwassluggishhere therewerefallsnotfaraboveusandwesawthefoamfromthemgobyfromtimetotimeTheIndiansaidthatCaucomgomocmeantBig-GullLake(ieherringgullIsuppose)gomocmeaninglakeHencethiswasCaucomgomoctookor the river from that lakeThiswas thePenobscotCaucomgomoctooktherewasanotherStJohnonenotfarnorthHefindstheeggsof this gull sometimes twenty together as big as hens eggs on rockyledgesonthewestsideofMillinocketRiverforinstanceandeatsthemNow I thought I would observe how he spent his SundayWhile I andmycompanionwerelookingaboutatthetreesandriverhewenttosleepIndeedheimprovedeveryopportunitytogetanapwhatevertheday

RamblingaboutthewoodsatthiscampInoticedthattheyconsistedchieflyoffirsblackspruceandsomewhiteredmaplecanoebirchandalongtheriver the hoary alder (Alnus incana) I name them in the order of theirabundanceTheViburnumnudumwasacommonshrubandofsmallerplantstherewerethedwarfcornelgreatround-leavedorchisabundantandinbloom(agreenish-whiteflowergrowingin littlecommunities)UvulariagrandiflorawhosestemtastedlikeacucumberPyrolasecundaapparentlythecommonestpyrola in those woods now out of bloomPyrola elliptica and Chiogeneshispidula TheClintonia borealis with ripe berrieswas very abundant andperfectlyathome there Its leavesdisposedcommonly in trianglesabout itsstemwere justashandsomelyformedandgreenand itsberriesasblueandglossyasifitgrewbysomebotanistsfavoritepathIcould trace theoutlinesof largebirches thathadfallen longagocollapsedand rotted and turned to soil by faint yellowish-green lines of feather-likemoss eighteen incheswide and twenty or thirty feet long crossed by othersimilarlinesIheardanight-warblerwoodthrushkingfishertweezer-birdorparti-coloredwarbler and a nighthawk I also heard and saw red squirrels and heard abullfrogTheIndiansaidthatheheardasnakeWild as it was it was hard for me to get rid of the associations of thesettlementsAnysteadyandmonotonoussoundtowhichIdidnotdistinctlyattend passed for a sound of human industry Thewaterfallswhich I heardwerenotwithouttheirdamsandmillstomyimaginationandseveraltimesIfound that I had been regarding the steady rushing sound of thewind fromover the woods beyond the rivers as that of a train of carsmdashthe cars atQuebecOurmindsanywherewhenlefttothemselvesarealwaysthusbusilydrawingconclusionsfromfalsepremisesIaskedtheIndiantomakeusasugar-bowlofbirchbarkwhichhedidusingthegreatknifewhichdangledinasheathfromhisbeltbutthebarkbrokeatthecornerswhenhebentitupandhesaiditwasnotgoodthattherewasagreatdifferenceinthisrespectbetweenthebarkofonecanoebirchandthatofanother i e one cracked more easily than another I used some thin anddelicatesheetsofthisbarkwhichhesplitandcutinmyflower-bookthinkingitwouldbegoodtoseparatethedriedspecimensfromthegreenMy companionwishing to distinguish between the black andwhite spruceaskedPolis to showhima twigof the latterwhichhedidatonce togetherwiththeblackindeedhecoulddistinguishthemaboutasfarashecouldseethembutasthetwotwigsappearedverymuchalikemycompanionaskedtheIndian to point out the difference whereupon the latter taking the twigsinstantlyremarkedashepassedhishandoverthemsuccessivelyinastrokingmanner that the white was rough (i e the needles stood up nearly

perpendicular)buttheblacksmooth(ieasifbentorcombeddown)Thiswasanobviousdifferenceboth to sightand touchHowever if I rememberrightly thiswould not serve to distinguish thewhite spruce from the light-coloredvarietyoftheblackI asked him to letme see him get some black spruce root andmake somethreadWhereuponwithoutlookingupatthetreesoverheadhebegantogrubinthegroundinstantlydistinguishingtheblacksprucerootsandcuttingoffaslenderonethreeorfourfeetlongandasbigasapipe-stemhesplittheendwith his knife and taking a half between the thumb and forefinger of eachhandrapidlyseparateditswholelengthintotwoequalsemicylindricalhalvesthen giving me another root he said You try But in my hands itimmediately ran off one side and I got only a very short piece In shortthoughitlookedveryeasyIfoundthattherewasagreatartinsplittingtheserootsThesplitisskillfullyhumoredbybendingshortwiththishandorthatandsokeptinthemiddleHethentookoffthebarkfromeachhalfpressingashort pieceof cedar bark against the convex sidewithbothhandswhilehedrewtherootupwardwithhisteethAnIndiansteetharestrongandInoticedthatheusedhisoftenwhereweshouldhaveusedahandTheyamountedtoathird handHe thus obtained in amoment a very neat tough and flexiblestringwhichhecouldtieintoaknotormakeintoafish-lineevenItissaidthat inNorwayandSweden the rootsof theNorway spruce (Abies excelsa)are used in the sameway for the same purposeHe said that youwould beobligedtogivehalfadollarforsprucerootenoughforacanoethuspreparedHehadhired thesewingofhisowncanoe thoughhemadeall therestTherootinhiscanoewasofapaleslate-colorprobablyacquiredbyexposuretotheweatherorperhapsfrombeingboiledinwaterfirstHehaddiscoveredthedaybeforethathiscanoeleakedalittleandsaidthatitwasowingtosteppingintoitviolentlywhichforcedthewaterundertheedgeofthehorizontalseamsonthesideIaskedhimwherehewouldgetpitchtomend it with for they commonly use hard pitch obtained of the whites atOldtown He said that he could make something very similar and equallygoodnotof sprucegumor the likebutofmaterialwhichwehadwithusandhewishedmetoguesswhatButIcouldnotandhewouldnot tellmethoughheshowedmeaballofitwhenmadeasbigasapeaandlikeblackpitchsayingatlastthatthereweresomethingswhichamandidnottellevenhis wife It may have been his own discovery In Arnolds expedition thepioneersusedfortheircanoetheturpentineofthepineandthescrapingsofthepork-bagBeingcurioustoseewhatkindoffishestherewereinthisdarkdeepsluggishriver Icast inmy line justbeforenightandcaughtseveral small somewhatyellowish sucker-like fishes which the Indian at once rejected saying that

theyweremichigan fish (i e soft and stinking fish) and good for nothingAlsohewouldnottouchapoutwhichIcaughtandsaidthatneitherIndiansnorwhitesthereaboutseveratethemwhichIthoughtwassingularsincetheyare esteemed inMassachusetts and he had told me that he ate hedgehogsloons etc But he said that some small silvery fishes which I calledwhitechivinwhichweresimilarinsizeandformtothefirstwerethebestfishinthePenobscotwatersandifIwouldtossthemupthebanktohimhewouldcookthemformeAftercleaningthemnotverycarefullyleavingtheheadsonhelaidthemonthecoalsandsobroiledthemReturningfromashortwalkhebroughtavineinhishandandaskedmeifIknewwhatitwassayingthatitmadethebestteaofanythinginthewoodsItwasthecreepingsnowberry(Chiogeneshispidula)whichwasquitecommonthereitsberriesjustgrownHecalleditcowosnebagosarwhichnameimpliesthat it grows where old prostrate trunks have collapsed and rotted So wedeterminedtohavesometeamadeofthisto-nightIthadaslightcheckerberryflavorandwebothagreedthatitwasreallybetterthantheblackteawhichwehadbroughtWethoughtitquiteadiscoveryandthatitmightwellbedriedand sold in the shops I for one however am not an old tea-drinker andcannotspeakwithauthoritytoothersItwouldhavebeenparticularlygoodtocarry along for a cold drink during the day the water thereabouts beinginvariably warm The Indian said that they also used for tea a certain herbwhich grew in low ground which he did not find there and ledum orLabrador teawhich I have since found and tried inConcord also hemlockleaves the last especially in thewinterwhen the other plantswere coveredwith snow and various other things but he did not approve of arbor-vitaeligwhichIsaidIhaddrunkinthosewoodsWecouldhavehadanewkindofteaeverynightJustbeforenightwesawamusquash(hedidnotsaymuskrat) theonlyonewe saw in this voyage swimming downward on the opposite side of thestreamTheIndianwishingtogetonetoeathushedussayingStopmecallemandsittingflatonthebankhebegantomakeacurioussqueakingwirysoundwithhis lipsexertinghimselfconsiderablyIwasgreatlysurprisedmdashthoughtthatIhadatlastgotintothewildernessandthathewasawildmanindeedtobetalkingtoamusquashIdidnotknowwhichofthetwowasthestrangest tome He seemed suddenly to have quite forsaken humanity andgoneover to themusquashsideThemusquashhoweverasnearas Icouldseedidnot turnaside thoughhemayhavehesitateda littleand the Indiansaidthathesawourfirebutitwasevidentthathewasinthehabitofcallingthemusquash tohimashesaidAnacquaintanceofminewhowashuntingmooseinthosewoodsamonthafterthistellsmethathisIndianinthiswayrepeatedly called themusquashwithin reachofhispaddle in themoonlightandstruckatthem

TheIndiansaidaparticularlylongprayerthisSundayeveningasiftoatoneforworkinginthemorningMONDAYJuly27HavingrapidlyloadedthecanoewhichtheIndianalwayscarefullyattendedtothatitmightbewelltrimmedandeachhavingtakenalookasusualtoseethat nothing was left we set out again descending the Caucomgomoc andturningnortheasterlyuptheUmbazookskusThisnametheIndiansaidmeantMuchMeadowRiverWe found it a verymeadowy stream and deadwaterandnowverywideonaccountoftherainsthoughhesaiditwassometimesquitenarrowThespacebetweenthewoodschieflybaremeadowwasfromfiftytotwohundredrodsinbreadthandisarareplaceformooseItremindedme of the Concord and what increased the resemblance was one oldmusquash-housealmostafloatInthewateronthemeadowsgrewsedgeswool-grassthecommonblueflagabundantlyitsflowerjustshowingitselfabovethehighwaterasifitwereabluewater-lilyandhigherinthemeadowsagreatmanyclumpsofapeculiarnarrow-leaved willow (Salix petiolaris) which is common in our rivermeadows It was the prevailing one here and the Indian said that themusquashatemuchofitandherealsogrewtheredosier(Cornusstolonifera)itslargefruitnowwhitishThoughitwasstillearlyinthemorningwesawnighthawkscirclingoverthemeadow and asusualheard thepepe (MuscicapaCooperi)which is oneoftheprevailingbirdsinthesewoodsandtherobinItwasunusual for thewoods tobe sodistant from the shore and therewasquite an echo from thembutwhen Iwas shouting inorder to awake it theIndianremindedmethatIshouldscarethemoosewhichhewaslookingoutfor and which we all wanted to see The word for echowasPockadunkquaywayleAbroadbeltofdeadlarchtreesalongthedistantedgeofthemeadowagainsttheforestoneachsideincreasedtheusualwildnessofthesceneryTheIndiancalled these juniper and said that they had been killed by the backwatercaused by the dam at the outlet of Chesuncook Lake some twenty milesdistant I plucked at the waters edge the Asclepias incarnata with quitehandsomeflowersabrighterredthanourvariety(thepulchra)ItwastheonlyformofitwhichIsawthereHavingpaddledseveralmilesuptheUmbazookskusitsuddenlycontractedtoamerebrooknarrowand swift the larches andother trees approaching thebankandleavingnoopenmeadowandwelandedtogetablacksprucepoleforpushingagainst the streamThiswas the firstoccasion foroneTheoneselectedwasquiteslendercutabouttenfeetlongmerelywhittledtoapoint

andthebarkshavedoffThestreamthoughnarrowandswiftwasstilldeepwithamuddybottomas Iprovedbydiving to itBeside theplantswhichIhavementioned I observedon thebankhere theSalix cordata and rostrataRanunculusrecurvatusandRubustrifloruswithripefruitWhilewewerethusemployedtwoIndiansinacanoehoveinsightroundthebushescomingdownstreamOurIndianknewoneofthemanoldmanandfell into conversation with him in Indian He belonged at the foot ofMooseheadTheotherwasofanothertribeTheywerereturningfromhuntingIasked theyounger if theyhadseenanymoose towhichhesaidnobut Iseeing the moose-hides sticking out from a great bundle made with theirblankets in themiddleof the canoe added Only theirhidesAshewasaforeignerhemayhavewishedtodeceivemeforitisagainstthelawforwhitemenandforeignerstokillmooseinMaineatthisseasonButperhapsheneednothavebeenalarmedforthemoose-wardensarenotveryparticularIheardquitedirectlyofonewhobeingaskedbyawhitemangoing into thewoodswhathewouldsayifhekilledamooseansweredIfyoubringmeaquarterof it I guess you wont be troubled His duty being as he said only toprevent theindiscriminateslaughterof themfor theirhides I suppose thathe would consider it an indiscriminate slaughter when a quarter was notreservedforhimselfSucharetheperquisitesofthisofficeWecontinuedalongthroughthemostextensivelarchwoodwhichIhadseenmdashtall and slender trees with fantastic branches But though this was theprevailingtreehereIdonotrememberthatwesawanyafterwardYoudonotfind straggling treesof this specieshere and there throughout thewoodbutratheralittleforestofthemThesameisthecasewiththewhiteandredpinesandsomeothertreesgreatlytotheconvenienceofthelumbererTheyareofasocialhabitgrowinginveinsclumpsgroupsorcommunitiesastheexplorerscall themdistinguishingthemfarawayfromthetopofahilloratreethewhitepinestoweringabovethesurroundingforestorelsetheyformextensive forests by themselves I should have liked to come across a largecommunityofpineswhichhadneverbeeninvadedbythelumberingarmyWesawsomefreshmoose-tracksalongtheshorebuttheIndiansaidthatthemoosewerenotdrivenoutofthewoodsbythefliesasusualatthisseasononaccountoftheabundanceofwatereverywhereThestreamwasonlyfromoneandonehalftothreerodswidequitewindingwithoccasionalsmallislandsmeadows and some very swift and shallow places When we came to anislandtheIndianneverhesitatedwhichsidetotakeasifthecurrenttoldhimwhichwastheshortestanddeepestItwasluckyforusthatthewaterwassohighWehadtowalkbutonceonthisstreamcarryingapartoftheloadataswiftandshallowreachwhilehegotupwiththecanoenotbeingobligedtotakeoutthoughhesaiditwasverystrongwaterOnceortwicewepassedthe

redwreckofabatteauwhichhadbeenstovesomespringWhilemakingthisportageIsawmanysplendidspecimensofthegreatpurplefringed orchis three feet high It is remarkable that such delicate flowersshouldhereadornthesewildernesspathsHaving resumed our seats in the canoe I felt the Indian wiping my backwhichhehadaccidentallyspatuponHesaiditwasasignthatIwasgoingtobemarriedThe Umbazookskus River is called ten miles long Having poled up thenarrowestpartsomethreeorfourmilesthenextopeningintheskywasoverUmbazookskusLakewhichwesuddenlyenteredaboutelevenoclockintheforenoon It stretches northwesterly four or fivemileswithwhat the Indiancalled the CaucomgomocMountain seen far beyond it It was an agreeablechangeThis lakewasveryshallowa longdistancefromtheshoreandIsawstone-heaps on the bottom like those in theAssabet at homeThe canoe ran intooneThe Indian thought that theyweremadebyaneel JoeAitteon in1853thoughtthattheyweremadebychubWecrossedthesoutheastendofthelaketothecarryintoMudPondUmbazookskusLakeis theheadof thePenobscot in thisdirectionandMudPond is thenearestheadof theAllegashoneof thechief sourcesof theStJohnHodgewhowentthroughthiswaytotheStLawrenceintheserviceoftheStatecallstheportagehereamileandthreequarterslongandstatesthatMud Pond has been found to be fourteen feet higher than UmbazookskusLake As the West Branch of the Penobscot at the Moosehead carry isconsideredabouttwenty-fivefeetlowerthanMooseheadLakeitappearsthatthe Penobscot in the upper part of its course runs in a broad and shallowvalley between the Kennebec and St John and lower than either of themthoughjudgingfromthemapyoumightexpectittobethehighestMudPond is abouthalfway fromUmbazookskus toChamberlainLake intowhichitemptiesandtowhichwewereboundTheIndiansaidthatthiswasthe wettest carry in the State and as the season was a very wet one weanticipated an unpleasant walk As usual he made one large bundle of thepork-keg cooking-utensils and other loose traps by tying them up in hisblanketWeshouldbeobligedtogooverthecarrytwiceandourmethodwastocarryonehalfpartwayandthengobackfortherestOurpathranclosebythedoorofaloghutinaclearingatthisendofthecarrywhich the Indianwhoaloneentered it found tobeoccupiedbyaCanadianand his family and that the man had been blind for a year He seemedpeculiarlyunfortunatetobetakenblindtherewherethereweresofeweyestoseeforhimHecouldnotevenbeledoutofthatcountrybyadogbutmustbe

takendowntherapidsaspassivelyasabarrelofflourThiswasthefirsthouseaboveChesuncookandthelastonthePenobscotwatersandwasbuiltherenodoubtbecauseitwastherouteofthelumberersinthewinterandspringAfteraslightascentfromthelakethroughthespringysoiloftheCanadiansclearing we entered on a level and very wet and rocky path through theuniversal dense evergreen forest a loosely paved gutter merely where wewent leapingfromrock to rockandfromside toside in thevainattempt tokeepoutofthewaterandmudWeconcludedthatitwasyetPenobscotwaterthoughtherewasnoflowtoitItwasonthiscarrythatthewhitehunterwhomImet in the stage as he toldme had shot two bears a fewmonths beforeTheystooddirectly in thepathanddidnot turnoutforhimTheymightbeexcusedfornot turningout thereoronly taking therightas the lawdirectsHesaidthatatthisseasonbearswerefoundonthemountainsandhillsidesinsearchofberriesandwereapttobesaucymdashthatwemightcomeacrossthemupTroutStreamandheaddedwhatIhardlycreditedthatmanyIndianssleptintheircanoesnotdaringtosleeponlandonaccountofthemHerecommenceswhatwascalled twentyyearsago thebest timber land inthe State This very spot was described as covered with the greatestabundance of pine but now this appeared to me comparatively anuncommon tree theremdashandyetyoudidnot seewhereanymorecouldhavestoodamidthedensegrowthofcedarfiretcItwasthenproposedtocutacanal from lake to lakeherebut theoutletwas finallymade farther east atTelosLakeasweshallseeTheIndianwithhiscanoesoondisappearedbeforeusbutere longhecameback and told us to take a path which turned off westward it being betterwalkingandatmysuggestionheagreedtoleaveaboughintheregularcarryatthatplacethatwemightnotpassitbymistakeThereafterhesaidweweretokeepthemainpathandheaddedYouseeemmytracksButIhadnotmuchfaiththatwecoulddistinguishhistrackssinceothershadpassedoverthecarrywithinafewdaysWeturnedoffattherightplacebutweresoonconfusedbynumerouslogging-pathscomingintotheonewewereonbywhichlumberershadbeentopickout those pines which I have mentioned However we kept what weconsidered themain path though itwas awinding one and in this at longintervals we distinguished a faint trace of a footstep This thoughcomparativelyunwornwasat firstabetterorat leastadrier road than theregularcarrywhichwehadleftItledthroughanarbor-vitaeligwildernessofthegrimmestcharacterThegreatfallenandrottingtreeshadbeencutthroughandrolled aside and their huge trunks abutted on the path on each side whileothers still lay across it two or three feet high It was impossible for us todiscerntheIndianstrailintheelasticmosswhichlikeathickcarpetcovered

everyrockandfallentreeaswellastheearthNeverthelessIdidoccasionallydetect the trackofamanandIgavemyselfsomecredit for it Icarriedmywholeloadatonceaheavyknapsackandalargeindia-rubberbagcontainingourbreadandablanketswungonapaddleinallaboutsixtypoundsbutmycompanionpreferredtomaketwojourneysbyshortstageswhileIwaitedforhimWecouldnot be sure thatwewerenot depositingour loads each timefartherofffromthetruepathAsIsatwaitingformycompanionhewouldseemtobegonealongtimeandIhadampleopportunitytomakeobservationsontheforestInowfirstbegantobeseriouslymolestedbytheblackflyaverysmallbutperfectlyformedflyofthatcoloraboutonetenthofaninchlongwhichIfirstfeltandthensawinswarmsaboutmeasIsatbyawiderandmorethanusuallydoubtfulforkinthisdark forestpathThehunters tell bloody stories about themmdashhow theysettleinaringaboutyourneckbeforeyouknowitandarewipedoffingreatnumberswithyourbloodButrememberingthatIhadawashinmyknapsackpreparedbyathoughtfulhandinBangorImadehastetoapplyittomyfaceand hands andwas glad to find it effectual as long as itwas fresh or fortwentyminutesnotonlyagainstblackfliesbutall theinsects thatmolestedusTheywouldnotalightonthepartthusdefendedItwascomposedofsweetoilandoilofturpentinewithalittleoilofspearmintandcamphorHoweverI finally concluded that the remedy was worse than the disease It was sodisagreeableandinconvenienttohaveyourfaceandhandscoveredwithsuchamixtureThree large slate-colored birds of the jay genus (Garrulus Canadensis) theCanadajaymoose-birdmeat-birdorwhatnotcameflittingsilentlyandbydegreestowardmeandhoppeddownthelimbsinquisitivelytowithinsevenor eight feet They were more clumsy and not nearly so handsome as thebluejay Fish hawks from the lake uttered their sharp whistling notes lowoverthetopoftheforestnearmeasiftheywereanxiousaboutanestthereAfterIhadsattheresometimeInoticedatthisforkinthepathatreewhichhadbeenblazedandthelettersChambLwrittenonitwithredchalkThisIknewtomeanChamberlainLakeSoIconcludedthatonthewholewewereontherightcoursethoughaswehadcomenearlytwomilesandsawnosignsofMudPondIdidharborthesuspicionthatwemightbeonadirectcoursetoChamberlainLakeleavingoutMudPondThisIfoundbymymapwouldbeaboutfivemilesnortheasterlyandIthentookthebearingbymycompassMycompanionhavingreturnedwithhisbagandalsodefendedhisfaceandhandswith the insect-washweset forwardagainThewalkingrapidlygrewworse and the path more indistinct and at length after passing through apatch of Calla palustris still abundantly in bloomwe found ourselves in amore open and regular swamp made less passable than ordinary by the

unusualwetnessoftheseasonWesankafootdeepinwaterandmudateverystep and sometimes up to our knees and the trail was almost obliteratedbeingnomorethanthatamusquashleavesinsimilarplaceswhenhepartsthefloatingsedge In fact itprobablywasamusquash trail in someplacesWeconcluded that ifMudPondwasasmuddyas theapproach to itwaswet itcertainlydeserveditsnameItwouldhavebeenamusingtobeholdthedoggedanddeliberatepaceatwhichweenteredthatswampwithoutinterchangingawordasifdeterminedtogothroughitthoughitshouldcomeuptoournecksHaving penetrated a considerable distance into this and found a tussock onwhich we could deposit our loads though there was no place to sit mycompanionwentbackfortherestofhispackIhadthoughttoobserveonthiscarrywhenwecrossedthedividinglinebetweenthePenobscotandStJohnbutasmyfeethadhardlybeenoutofwaterthewholedistanceanditwasalllevel and stagnant I began to despair of finding it I remembered hearing agood deal about the highlands dividing the waters of the Penobscot fromthoseoftheStJohnaswellastheStLawrenceatthetimeofthenortheastboundarydisputeandIobservedbymymap that the lineclaimedbyGreatBritain as the boundary prior to 1842 passed betweenUmbazookskus LakeandMudPondsothatwehadeithercrossedorwerethenonitThesethenaccordingtoherinterpretationofthetreatyof83werethehighlandswhichdivide those rivers that empty themselves into the St Lawrence from thosewhichfallintotheAtlanticOceanTrulyaninterestingspottostandonmdashifthat were itmdashthough you could not sit down there I thought that if thecommissioners themselves and theKingofHollandwith them had spent afewdaysherewiththeirpacksupontheirbackslookingforthathighlandtheywouldhavehadaninterestingtimeandperhapsitwouldhavemodifiedtheirviewsofthequestionsomewhatTheKingofHollandwouldhavebeeninhiselementSuchweremymeditationswhilemycompanionwasgonebackforhisbagItwasacedarswamp throughwhichthepeculiarnoteof thewhite-throatedsparrowrangloudandclearTheregrewtheside-saddleflowerLabradorteaKalmia glauca andwhatwas new tome the low birch (Betula pumila) alittleround-leafedshrubtwoorthreefeethighonlyWethoughttonamethisswampafterthelatterAfteralongwhilemycompanioncamebackandtheIndianwithhimWehadtaken thewrong road and the Indian had lost usHe had verywisely goneback to the Canadians camp and asked him which way we had probablygonesincehecouldbetterunderstandthewaysofwhitemenandhetoldhimcorrectlythatwehadundoubtedlytakenthesupplyroadtoChamberlainLake(slendersuppliestheywouldgetoversucharoadatthisseason)TheIndianwasgreatlysurprisedthatweshouldhavetakenwhathecalledatow(ietote or toting or supply) road instead of a carry pathmdashthat we had not

followedhistracksmdashsaiditwasstrangeandevidentlythoughtlittleofourwoodcraftHavingheldaconsultationandeatenamouthfulofbreadweconcludedthatitwouldperhapsbenearer forus twonowtokeepon toChamberlainLakeomittingMudPondthantogobackandstartanewforthelastplacethoughtheIndianhadneverbeenthroughthiswayandknewnothingaboutitInthemeanwhilehewouldgobackandfinishcarryingoverhiscanoeandbundletoMudPondcrossthatandgodownitsoutletandupChamberlainLakeandtrusttomeetustherebeforenightItwasnowalittleafternoonHesupposedthat the water in which we stood had flowed back fromMud Pond whichcouldnotbefaroffeastwardbutwasunapproachablethroughthedensecedarswampKeeping on we were ere long agreeably disappointed by reaching firmerground andwe crossed a ridgewhere the pathwasmore distinct but therewasneveranyoutlookovertheforestWhiledescendingthelastIsawmanyspecimens of the great round-leaved orchis of large size one which ImeasuredhadleavesasusualflatonthegroundnineandahalfincheslongandninewideandwastwofeethighThedarkdampwildernessisfavorableto some of these orchidaceous plants though they are too delicate forcultivationIalsosawtheswampgooseberry(Rideslacustre)withgreenfruitandinallthelowgroundwhereitwasnottoowettheRubustriflorusinfruitAtoneplaceIheardaveryclearandpiercingnotefromasmallhawklikeasingle note from a white-throated sparrow only very much louder as hedashed through the tree-tops over my head I wondered that he allowedhimself to be disturbed by our presence since it seemed as if he could noteasily findhisnest againhimself in thatwildernessWealso sawandheardseveraltimestheredsquirrelandoftenasbeforeobservedthebluishscalesofthefirconeswhichithadleftonarockorfallentreeThisaccordingtotheIndian is the only squirrel found in thosewoods except a very few stripedonesItmusthaveasolitarytimeinthatdarkevergreenforestwherethereissolittlelifeseventy-fivemilesfromaroadaswehadcomeIwonderedhowhecouldcallanyparticulartreetherehishomeandyethewouldrunupthestemofoneoutof themyriadsas if itwereanoldroad tohimHowcanahawkeverfindhimthereIfanciedthathemustbegladtoseeusthoughhedid seem to chide us One of those sombre fir and spruce woods is notcompleteunlessyouhear fromout itscavernousmossyand twiggyrecesseshisfinealarummdashhissprucevoiceliketheworkingofthesapthroughsomecrack ina treemdashtheworkingof thesprucebeerSuchan impertinent fellowwouldoccasionallytrytoalarmthewoodaboutmeOhsaidIIamwellacquaintedwithyourfamilyIknowyourcousinsinConcordverywellGuessthemails irregular in theseparts andyoud like tohear from emButmyovertureswerevainforhewouldwithdrawbyhisaerialturnpikesintoamore

distantcedar-topandspringhisrattleagainWethenenteredanotherswampatanecessarilyslowpacewherethewalkingwasworsethanevernotonlyonaccountof thewaterbut thefallentimberwhich often obliterated the indistinct trail entirely The fallen treeswere sonumerousthatforlongdistancestheroutewasthroughasuccessionofsmallyardswhereweclimbedover fencesashighasourheadsdown intowateroftenuptoourkneesandthenoveranotherfenceintoasecondyardandsoonandgoingback forhisbagmycompaniononce losthiswayandcamebackwithoutitInmanyplacesthecanoewouldhaverunifithadnotbeenforthefallentimberAgainitwouldbemoreopenbutequallywet toowetfortrees to grow and no place to sit down It was a mossy swamp which itrequired the long legs of amoose to traverse and it is very likely that wescaredsomeoftheminourtransitthoughwesawnoneItwasreadytoechothegrowlofabearthehowlofawolforthescreamofapantherbutwhenyougetfairlyintothemiddleofoneofthesegrimforestsyouaresurprisedtofindthatthelargerinhabitantsarenotathomecommonlybuthaveleftonlyapuny red squirrel to bark at you Generally speaking a howlingwildernessdoesnothowlitistheimaginationofthetravelerthatdoesthehowlingIdidhoweverseeonedeadporcupineperhapshehadsuccumbedtothedifficultiesof the way These bristly fellows are a very suitable small fruit of suchunkemptwildernessesMakingalogging-roadintheMainewoodsiscalledswampingitandtheywho do thework are called swampers I now perceived the fitness of thetermThiswasthemostperfectlyswampedofalltheroadsIeversawNaturemusthavecooperatedwitharthereHowever Isuppose theywould tellyouthatthisnametookitsoriginfromthefactthatthechiefworkofroadmakersinthosewoodsistomaketheswampspassableWecametoastreamwherethe bridgewhich had beenmade of logs tied togetherwith cedar bark hadbeenbrokenupandwegotoveraswecouldThisprobablyemptiedintoMudPondandperhapstheIndianmighthavecomeupitandtakenusinthereifhehadknownitSuchasitwasthisruinedbridgewasthechiefevidencethatwewereonapathofanykindWe then crossed another low rising ground and Iwhowore shoes had anopportunity towringoutmystockingsbutmycompanionwhousedbootshadfoundthatthiswasnotasafeexperimentforhimforhemightnotbeabletogethiswetbootsonagainHewentoverthewholegroundorwaterthreetimes for which reason our progress was very slow beside that the watersoftened our feet and to some extent unfitted them for walking As I satwaiting forhim itwouldnaturally seemanunaccountable time that hewasgone Therefore as I could see through thewoods that the sunwas gettinglowand itwasuncertainhowfar the lakemightbeeven ifwewereon the

right course and in what part of the world we should find ourselves atnightfall I proposed that I should push through with what speed I couldleavingboughstomarkmypathandfindthelakeandtheIndianifpossiblebeforenightandsendthelatterbacktocarrymycompanionsbagHavinggoneaboutamileandgotintolowgroundagainIheardanoiselikethenoteof anowlwhich I soondiscovered tobemadeby the Indian andansweringhimwesooncametogetherHehadreachedthelakeaftercrossingMudPondandrunningsomerapidsbelowitandhadcomeupaboutamileand a half on our path If he had not come back to meet us we probablyshould not have found him that night for the path branched once or twicebefore reaching this particular part of the lake So he went back for mycompanion and his bag while I kept on Having waded through anotherstreamwherethebridgeoflogshadbeenbrokenupandhalffloatedawaymdashandthiswasnotaltogetherworsethanourordinarywalkingsinceitwaslessmuddymdashwecontinuedon throughalternatemudandwater to the shoreofApmoojenegamook Lake which we reached in season for a late supperinsteadofdiningthereaswehadexpectedhavinggonewithoutourdinnerItwasat least fivemilesby thewaywehadcomeandasmycompanionhadgoneovermostofit threetimeshehadwalkedfulladozenmilesbadasitwasInthewinterwhenthewaterisfrozenandthesnowisfourfeetdeepitisnodoubtatolerablepathtoafootmanAsitwasIwouldnothavemissedthatwalkforagooddealIfyouwantanexactrecipeformakingsucharoadtakeonepartMudPondanddiluteitwithequalpartsofUmbazookskusandApmoojenegamookthensendafamilyofmusquashthroughtolocateitlookafter thegradesandculvertsandfinish it to theirmindsandletahurricanefollowtodothefencingWe had come out on a point extending into Apmoojenegamook orChamberlainLakewestoftheoutletofMudPondwheretherewasabroadgravellyandrockyshoreencumberedwithbleachedlogsandtreesWewererejoicedtoseesuchdrythingsinthatpartoftheworldButatfirstwedidnotattendtodrynesssomuchastomudandwetnessWeallthreewalkedintothelakeuptoourmiddletowashourclothesThiswasanothernoble lakecalled twelvemiles longeastandwest ifyouaddTelosLakewhichsincethedamwasbuilthasbeenconnectedwithitbydeadwateritwillbetwentyanditisapparentlyfromamileandahalftotwomileswideWewereaboutmidwayitslengthonthesouthsideWecouldseetheonlyclearing in theseparts called theChamberlainFarmwith twoorthreelogbuildingsclosetogetherontheoppositeshoresometwoandahalfmilesdistantThesmokeofourfireontheshorebroughtovertwomeninacanoefromthefarmthatbeingacommonsignalagreedonwhenonewishestocrossIttookthemabouthalfanhourtocomeoverandtheyhadtheirlabor

for their pains this time Even the English name of the lake had a wildwoodland sound reminding me of that Chamberlain who killed Paugus atLovewellsfightAfterputtingonsuchdryclothesaswehadandhangingtheotherstodryonthepolewhich the Indianarrangedover the fireweateour supper and laydownonthepebblyshorewithourfeettothefirewithoutpitchingourtentmakingathinbedofgrasstocoverthestonesHerefirstIwasmolestedbythelittlemidgecalledtheno-see-em(SimuliumnocivummdashthelatterwordisnottheLatinforno-see-em)especiallyoverthesandat thewaters edge for it is akindof sand-flyYouwouldnotobservethembutfortheirlight-coloredwingsTheyaresaidtogetunderyourclothesandproduceafeverishheatwhichIsupposewaswhatIfeltthatnightOurinsectfoesinthisexcursiontosumthemupwerefirstmosquitoesthechiefonesbutonlytroublesomeatnightorwhenwesatstillonshorebydaysecondblackflies(Simuliummolestum)whichmolestedusmoreorlessonthecarriesbydayasIhavebeforedescribedandsometimesinnarrowerpartsofthestreamHarrismistakeswhenhesaysthattheyarenotseenafterJuneThirdmoose-fliesThebigonesPolissaidwerecalledBososquasis It isastout brown fly much like a horse-fly about eleven sixteenths of an inchlong commonly rusty-coloredbeneathwithunspottedwingsThey canbitesmartlyaccordingtoPolisbutareeasilyavoidedorkilledFourththeno-see-ems above mentioned Of all these the mosquitoes are the only ones thattroubledmeseriouslybutasIwasprovidedwithawashandaveiltheyhavenotmadeanydeepimpressionTheIndianwouldnotuseourwashtoprotecthisfaceandhandsforfearthatitwouldhurthisskinnorhadheanyveilhethereforesufferedfrominsectsnow and throughout this journey more than either of us I think that hesufferedmorethanIdidwhenneitherofuswasprotectedHeregularlytieduphisfaceinhishandkerchiefandburieditinhisblanketandhenowfinallylaydownonthesandbetweenusandthefireforthesakeofthesmokewhichhetriedtomakeenterhisblanketabouthisfaceandforthesamepurposehelithispipeandbreathedthesmokeintohisblanketAswelaythusontheshorewithnothingbetweenusandthestarsIinquiredwhat stars hewas acquaintedwith or had names for Theywere theGreatBearwhichhecalledbythisnametheSevenStarswhichhehadnoEnglishnameforthemorningstarandthenorthstarInthemiddleofthenightasindeedeachtimethatwelayontheshoreofalakeweheardthevoiceoftheloonloudanddistinctfromfaroverthelakeItisaverywildsoundquiteinkeepingwiththeplaceandthecircumstancesofthetravelerandveryunlikethevoiceofabirdIcouldlieawakeforhours

listeningtoititissothrillingWhencampinginsuchawildernessasthisyouarepreparedtohearsoundsfromsomeofitsinhabitantswhichwillgivevoiceto its wildness Some idea of bears wolves or panthers runs in your headnaturallyandwhenthisnoteisfirstheardveryfaroffatmidnightasyouliewithyour ear to thegroundmdashthe forest beingperfectly still aboutyou youtakeitforgrantedthat it is thevoiceofawolforsomeotherwildbeastforonlythelastpartisheardwhenatadistancemdashyouconcludethatitisapackofwolvesbayingthemoonorperchancecanteringafteramooseStrangeasitmayseemthemooingofacowonamountain-sidecomesnearesttomyidea of the voice of a bear and this birds note resembled that It was theunfailingandcharacteristicsoundofthoselakesWewerenotsoluckyastohear wolves howl though that is an occasional serenade Some friends ofminewho twoyearsagowentup theCaucomgomocRiverwereserenadedbywolveswhilemoose-huntingbymoonlight Itwasasuddenburstas ifahundred demons had broke loosemdasha startling sound enoughwhich if anywouldmake your hair stand on end and all was still again It lasted but amoment andyoudhave thought therewere twentyof themwhenprobablytherewereonly twoor threeTheyheard it twiceonly and they said that itgaveexpressiontothewildernesswhichitlackedbeforeIheardofsomemenwhowhileskinningamooselatelyinthosewoodsweredrivenofffromthecarcassbyapackofwolveswhichateitupThisof the loonmdashIdonotmean its laughbut its looningmdashisa long-drawncallasitweresometimessingularlyhumantomyearmdashhoo-hoo-ooooolikethehallooingofamanonaveryhighkeyhaving thrownhisvoice intohisheadIhaveheardasoundexactlylikeitwhenbreathingheavilythroughmyownnostrilshalfawakeattenatnightsuggestingmyaffinitytotheloonasif its languagewerebutadialectofmyownafterallFormerlywhenlyingawake at midnight in those woods I had listened to hear some words orsyllablesoftheirlanguagebutitchancedthatIlistenedinvainuntilIheardthe cry of the loon I have heard it occasionally on the ponds ofmy nativetownbutthereitswildnessisnotenhancedbythesurroundingsceneryIwasawakenedatmidnightbysomeheavylow-flyingbirdprobablyaloonflappingbycloseovermyheadalongtheshoreSoturningtheothersideofmyhalf-cladbodytothefireIsoughtslumberagainTUESDAYJuly28Whenwe awokewe found a heavy dewon our blankets I lay awake veryearly and listened to theclear shrill ah te te te te teof thewhite-throatedsparrow repeated at short intervals without the least variation for half anhourasifitcouldnotenoughexpressitshappinessWhethermycompanionshearditornotIknownotbutitwasakindofmatinstomeandtheeventofthatforenoon

ItwasapleasantsunriseandwehadaviewofthemountainsinthesoutheastKtaadnappearedaboutsoutheastbysouthAdouble-toppedmountainaboutsoutheastbyeastandanotherportionofthesameeast-southeastThelasttheIndiancalledNerlumskeechticookandsaidthatitwasattheheadoftheEastBranchandweshouldpassnearitonourreturnthatwayWe did somemore washing in the lake thismorning andwith our clotheshungaboutonthedeadtreesandrockstheshorelookedlikewashing-dayathomeThe Indian taking thehint borrowed the soap andwalking into thelakewashedhisonlycottonshirtonhispersonthenputonhispantsandletitdryonhimIobservedthatheworeacottonshirtoriginallywhiteagreenishflanneloneover it but no waistcoat flannel drawers and strong linen or duck pantswhich also had been white blue woolen stockings cowhide boots and aKossuth hatHe carried no change of clothing but putting on a stout thickjacketwhichhelaidasideinthecanoeandseizingafull-sizedaxehisgunand ammunition and a blanket which would do for a sail or knapsack ifwanted and strapping on his belt which contained a large sheath-knife hewalked off at once ready to be gone all summer This looked veryindependent a few simple and effective tools and no india-rubber clothingHewasalways the first ready to start in themorning and if it hadnotheldsome of our property would not have been obliged to roll up his blanketInsteadofcarryingalargebundleofhisownextraclothingetchebroughtbackthegreatcoatsofmoosetiedupinhisblanketIfoundthathisoutfitwasthe result of a long experience and in themain hardly to be improved onunlessbywashingandanextrashirtWantingabuttonherehewalkedofftoaplacewheresomeIndianshadrecentlyencampedandsearchedforonebutIbelieveinvainHaving softened our stiffened boots and shoes with the pork fat the usualdispositionofwhatwasleftatbreakfastwecrossedthelakeearlysteeringinadiagonaldirectionnortheasterlyabout fourmiles to theoutletwhichwasnot to be discovered till we were close to it The IndiannameApmoojenegamookmeanslakethatiscrossedbecausetheusualcourseliesacrossandnotalongitThisisthelargestoftheAllegashlakesandwasthe first St John water that we floated on It is shaped in the main likeChesuncookTherearenomountainsorhighhillsverynearitAtBangorwehadbeentoldofatownshipmanymilesfarthernorthwestitwasindicatedtousascontainingthehighestlandthereaboutswherebyclimbingaparticulartreeintheforestwecouldgetageneralideaofthecountryIhavenodoubtthatthelastwasgoodadvicebutwedidnotgothereWedidnotintendtogofardowntheAllegashbutmerelytogetaviewofthegreatlakeswhichareitssource and then return this way to the East Branch of the Penobscot The

waternowbygoodrightsflowednorthwardifitcouldbesaidtoflowatallAfterreachingthemiddleofthelakewefoundthewavesasusualprettyhighand the Indian warnedmy companion who was nodding that hemust notallowhimselftofallasleepinthecanoelestheshouldupsetusaddingthatwhenIndianswanttosleepinacanoetheyliedownstraightonthebottomButinthiscrowdedonethatwasimpossibleHoweverhesaidthathewouldnudgehimifhesawhimnoddingAbeltofdeadtreesstoodallaroundthelakesomefaroutinthewaterwithothers prostrate behind them and they made the shore for the most partalmostinaccessibleThisistheeffectofthedamattheoutletThusthenaturalsandyorrockyshorewithitsgreenfringewasconcealedanddestroyedWecoasted westward along the north side searching for the outlet about onequarterofamiledistantfromthissavage-lookingshoreonwhichthewaveswerebreakingviolentlyknowingthat itmighteasilybeconcealedamid thisrubbishorby theoverlappingof theshore It is remarkablehow little theseimportant gates to a lake are blazoned There is no triumphal arch over themodest inletoroutletbutat someundistinguishedpoint it trickles inoroutthroughtheuninterruptedforestalmostasthroughaspongeWereachedtheoutletinaboutanhourandcarriedoverthedamtherewhichisquiteasolidstructureandaboutonequarterofamilefarther therewasaseconddamThereaderwillperceivethattheresultofthisparticulardammingaboutChamberlainLake is that thehead-watersof theStJohnaremade toflow by Bangor They have thus dammed all the larger lakes raising theirbroad surfaces many feetMoosehead for instance some forty miles longwith its steamer on it thus turning the forces of nature against herself thattheymightfloattheirspoilsoutofthecountryTheyrapidlyrunoutoftheseimmenseforestsallthefinerandmoreaccessiblepinetimberandthenleavethebearstowatchthedecayingdamsnotclearingnorcultivatingthelandnormakingroadsnorbuildinghousesbutleavingitawildernessastheyfounditInmanypartsonlythesedamsremainlikedesertedbeaver-damsThinkhowmuch land theyhave flowedwithoutaskingNatures leaveWhen theStatewishes toendowanacademyoruniversity itgrants it a tractof forest landonesawrepresentsanacademyagangauniversityThewilderness experiences a sudden rise of all her streams and lakes Shefeels ten thousand vermin gnawing at the base of her noblest trees Manycombiningdrag themoff jarringover therootsof thesurvivorsand tumblethemintotheneareststreamtillthefairesthavingfallentheyscamperofftoransacksomenewwildernessandallisstillagainItisaswhenamigratingarmyofmicegirdlesaforestofpinesThechopperfellstreesfromthesamemotivethatthemousegnawsthemmdashtogethislivingYoutellmethathehasamoreinterestingfamilythanthemouseThatisasithappensHespeaksofa

berth of timber a good place for him to get into just as a wormmightWhenthechopperwouldpraiseapinehewillcommonlytellyouthattheonehecutwassobigthatayokeofoxenstoodonitsstumpasifthatwerewhatthepinehadgrownfortobecomethefootstoolofoxenInmymindseyeIcan see these unwieldy tame deer with a yoke binding them together andbrazen-tippedhornsbetrayingtheirservitudetakingtheirstandonthestumpof each giant pine in succession throughout this whole forest and chewingtheircudthereuntilitisnothingbutanox-pastureandrunoutatthatAsifitwere good for the oxen and some terebinthine or other medicinal qualityascendedintotheirnostrilsOristheirelevatedpositionintendedmerelyasasymbolofthefactthatthepastoralcomesnextinordertothesylvanorhunterlifeThe character of the loggers admiration is betrayed by his very mode ofexpressingit Ifhetoldall thatwasinhismindhewouldsay itwassobigthat I cut it down and then a yoke of oxen could stand on its stump Headmires the log thecarcassorcorpsemorethanthe treeWhymydearsirthetreemighthavestoodonitsownstumpandagreatdealmorecomfortablyand firmly than a yokeof oxen can if youhadnot cut it downWhat righthaveyoutocelebratethevirtuesofthemanyoumurderedTheAnglo-AmericancanindeedcutdownandgrubupallthiswavingforestandmakeastumpspeechandvoteforBuchananonitsruinsbuthecannotconverse with the spirit of the tree he fells he cannot read the poetry andmythology which retire as he advances He ignorantly erases mythologicaltablets in order to print his handbills and town-meeting warrants on themBefore he has learned his a b c in the beautiful but mystic lore of thewildernesswhichSpenserandDantehadjustbeguntoreadhecutsitdowncoinsapine-tree shilling (as if to signify thepinesvalue tohim)putsupadeestrictschoolhouseandintroducesWebstersspelling-bookBelowthelastdamtheriverbeingswiftandshallowthoughbroadenoughwetwowalkedabouthalfamiletolightenthecanoeImadeitaruletocarrymyknapsackwhenIwalkedandalsotokeepittiedtoacrossbarwheninthecanoethatitmightbefoundwiththecanoeifweshouldupsetIheardthedog-daylocusthereandafterwardonthecarriesasoundwhichIhad associated only with more open if not settled countries The area forlocustsmustbesmallintheMainewoodsWewerenowfairlyontheAllegashRiverwhichnameourIndiansaidmeanthemlockbarkThesewatersflownorthwardaboutonehundredmilesatfirstvery feebly then southeasterly two hundred and fifty more to the Bay ofFundyAfterperhapstwomilesofriverweenteredHeronLakecalledonthemapPongokwahemscaringupfortyorfiftyyoungshecorwayssheldrakesattheentrancewhichranoverthewaterwithgreatrapidityasusual inalong

lineThiswasthefourthgreatlakelyingnorthwestandsoutheastlikeChesuncookandmostofthelonglakesinthatneighborhoodandjudgingfromthemapitis about tenmiles longWehadentered it on the southwest side and sawadarkmountain northeast over the lake not very far off nor highwhich theIndian saidwas called PeakedMountain and used by explorers to look fortimberfromTherewasalsosomeotherhigh landmoreeasterlyTheshoreswere in the same ragged and unsightly condition encumbered with deadtimberbothfallenandstandingasinthelast lakeowingtothedamontheAllegashbelowSomelowpointsorislandswerealmostdrownedIsawsomethingwhiteamileoffonthewaterwhichturnedouttobeagreatgullonarockinthemiddlewhichtheIndianwouldhavebeengladtokillandeatbut it flewaway longbeforewewerenearandalsoa flockof summerducks thatwereabout therockwith it Iaskinghimaboutheronssince thiswasHeronLakehesaidthathefoundtheblueheronsnestsinthehardwoodtrees I thought that I sawa light-coloredobjectmovealong theoppositeornorthernshorefourorfivemilesdistantHedidnotknowwhat itcouldbeunlessitwereamoosethoughhehadneverseenawhiteonebuthesaidthathecoulddistinguishamooseanywhereonshoreclearacrossthelakeRoundingapointwestoodacrossabayforamileandahalfor twomilestoward a large island three or four miles down the lake We met withephemeraelig(shadfly)midwayaboutamilefromtheshoreandtheyevidentlyflyoverthewholelakeOnMooseheadIhadseenalargedevils-needlehalfamilefromtheshorecomingfromthemiddleofthelakewhereitwasthreeorfourmileswideat least It hadprobablycrossedBut at last of courseyoucometolakessolargethataninsectcannotflyacrossthemandthisperhapswillservetodistinguishalargelakefromasmalloneWelandedonthesoutheastsideoftheislandwhichwasratherelevatedanddenselywoodedwitharockyshoreinseasonforanearlydinnerSomebodyhadcampedtherenotlongbeforeandlefttheframeonwhichtheystretchedamoose-hidewhichourIndiancriticisedseverelythinkingitshowedbutlittlewoodcraftHerewereplentyoftheshellsofcrayfishorfresh-waterlobsterswhichhadbeenwashedashoresuchashavegivenanametosomepondsandstreamsTheyarecommonlyfourorfiveincheslongTheIndianproceededatoncetocutacanoebirchslanteditupagainstanothertreeontheshoretyingitwithawitheandlaydowntosleepinitsshadeWhen we were on the Caucomgomoc he recommended to us a new wayhome theveryonewhichwehad first thoughtofby theSt JohnHeevensaidthatitwaseasierandwouldtakebutlittlemoretimethantheotherbytheEastBranchofthePenobscotthoughverymuchfartherroundandtakingthemapheshowedwhereweshouldbeeachnightforhewasfamiliarwith

therouteAccordingtohiscalculationweshouldreachtheFrenchsettlementsthenextnightafterthisbykeepingnorthwarddowntheAllegashandwhenwegotintothemainStJohnthebankswouldbemoreorlesssettledallthewayasifthatwerearecommendationTherewouldbebutoneortwofallswithshortcarrying-placesandweshouldgodownthestreamveryfastevenahundredmilesadayifthewindallowedandheindicatedwhereweshouldcarryoverintoEelRivertosaveabendbelowWoodstockinNewBrunswickandsointotheSchoodicLakeandthencetotheMattawamkeagItwouldbeaboutthreehundredandsixtymilestoBangorthiswaythoughonlyaboutonehundredandsixtybytheotherbutintheformercaseweshouldexploretheSt John from its source through two thirds of its course as well as theSchoodicLake andMattawamkeagmdashandwewere again tempted to go thatwayIfearedhoweverthatthebanksoftheStJohnweretoomuchsettledWhenIaskedhimwhichcoursewouldtakeusthroughthewildestcountryhesaidtheroutebytheEastBranchPartlyfromthisconsiderationasalsofromits shortness we resolved to adhere to the latter route and perhaps ascendKtaadn on the wayWemade this island the limit of our excursion in thisdirectionWehadnowseenthelargestoftheAllegashlakesThenextdamwasaboutfifteenmilesfarthernorthdowntheAllegashanditwasdeadwatersofarWehadbeentoldinBangorofamanwholivedaloneasortofhermitatthatdamto takecareof itwhospenthis timetossingabulletfromonehandtotheotherforwantofemploymentmdashasifwemightwanttocallonhimThissort of tit-for-tat intercourse between his two hands bandying to and fro aleadensubjectseemstohavebeenhissymbolforsocietyThis island according to themap was about a hundred and tenmiles in astraight linenorth-northwest fromBangor and about ninety-ninemiles east-southeastfromQuebecTherewasanotherislandvisibletowardthenorthendof the lakewith an elevated clearingon it butwe learned afterward that itwasnotinhabitedhadonlybeenusedasapastureforcattlewhichsummeredinthesewoodsthoughourinformantsaidthattherewasahutonthemainlandnear theoutletof thelakeThisunnaturallysmooth-shavensquarishspot inthe midst of the otherwise uninterrupted forest only reminded us howuninhabited the countrywasYouwould sooner expect tomeetwith a bearthananoxinsuchaclearingAtanyrateitmusthavebeenasurprisetothebearswhentheycameacrossitSuchseenfarornearyouknowatoncetobemansworkforNatureneverdoesitInordertoletinthelighttotheearthasonalakeheclearsofftheforestonthehillsidesandplainsandsprinklesfinegrassseedlikeanenchanterandsocarpetstheearthwithafirmswardPolishadevidentlymorecuriosityrespectingthefewsettlersinthosewoodsthan we If nothing was said he took it for granted that we wanted to go

straighttothenextlog-hutHavingobservedthatwecamebytheloghutsatChesuncook and the blind Canadians at the Mud Pond carry withoutstopping to communicate with the inhabitants he took occasion now tosuggestthattheusualwaywaswhenyoucamenearahousetogotoitandtell the inhabitantswhatyouhad seenorheard and then they tellyouwhattheyhadseenbutwelaughedandsaidthatwehadhadenoughofhousesforthepresentandhadcomeherepartlytoavoidthemIn the meanwhile the wind increasing blew down the Indians birch andcreatedsuchaseathatwefoundourselvesprisonersontheislandthenearestshorewhichwas thewesternbeingperhapsamiledistantandwetookthecanoe out to prevent its drifting awayWe did not know but we should becompelled to spend the rest of the day and the night thereAt any rate theIndianwent to sleep again in the shade of his birchmy companion busiedhimselfdryinghisplantsandIrambledalongtheshorewestwardwhichwasquite stony andobstructedwith fallen bleachedordrifted trees for fourorfive rods inwidth I foundgrowingon thisbroad rockyandgravelly shorethe Salix rostrata discolor and lucidaRanunculus recurvatus PotentillaNorvegica Scutellaria laterifloraEupatoriumpurpureumAsterTradescantiMentha Canadensis Epilobium angustifolium (abundant) Lycopus sinuatusSolidago lanceolata Spiraeliga salicifolia Antennaria margaraticea PrunellaRumex Acetosella raspberries wool-grass Onoclea etc The nearest treeswere Betula papyracea and excelsa and Populus tremuloides I give thesenamesbecauseitwasmyfarthestnorthernpointOurIndiansaidthathewasadoctorandcouldtellmesomemedicinaluseforeveryplantIcouldshowhimIimmediatelytriedhimHesaidthattheinnerbarkoftheaspen(Populustremuloides)wasgoodforsoreeyesandsowithvarious other plants proving himself as good as hiswordAccording to hisaccounthehadacquiredsuchknowledgeinhisyouthfromawiseoldIndianwith whom he associated and he lamented that the present generation ofIndianshadlostagreatdealHesaidthatthecaribouwasaverygreatrunnerthattherewasnoneaboutthislakenowthoughthereusedtobemanyandpointingtothebeltofdeadtreescausedbythedamsheaddedNolikumstumpmdashwhenheseesthathescaredPointing southeasterlyover the lakeanddistant forest heobserved MegoOldtowninthreedaysIaskedhowhewouldgetovertheswampsandfallentreesOhsaidheinwinterallcoveredgoanywhereonsnowshoesrightacross lakesWhen I askedhowhewenthe said First I goKtaadnwestsidethenIgoMillinocketthenPamadumcookthenNicketowthenLincolnthen Oldtown or else he went a shorter way by the Piscataquis What awilderness walk for a man to take alone None of your half-mile swamps

noneofyourmile-widewoodsmerelyasontheskirtsofourtownswithouthotelsonlyadarkmountainoralakeforguide-boardandstationovergroundmuchofitimpassableinsummerIt remindedme of PrometheusBoundHerewas traveling of the old heroickindovertheunalteredfaceofnatureFromtheAllegashorHemlockRiverand Pongoquahem Lake across great Apmoojenegamook and leaving theNerlumskeechticookMountain on his left he takes hisway under the bear-haunted slopes of Souneunk and Ktaadn Mountains to Pamadumcook andMillinocketsinlandseas(whereoftengulls-eggsmayincreasehisstore)andsoontotheforksoftheNicketow(niasosebwealoneJosephseeingwhatour folks see) everpushing theboughsof the fir and spruceasidewithhisloadoffurscontendingdayandnightnightanddaywiththeshaggydemonvegetationtravelingthroughthemossygraveyardoftreesOrhecouldgobythat rough toothof theseaKineogreatsourceofarrowsandofspears tothe ancientswhenweapons of stonewere used Seeing and hearingmoosecaribou bears porcupines lynxes wolves and panthers Places where hemight live and die and never hear of theUnited Stateswhichmake such anoise in the worldmdashnever hear of America so called from the name of aEuropeangentlemanThereisalumberersroadcalledtheEagleLakeroadfromtheSebooistotheeast side of this lake It may seem strange that any road through such awildernessshouldbepassableeveninwinterwhenthesnowisthreeorfourfeet deep but at that season wherever lumbering operations are activelycarriedonteamsarecontinuallypassingonthesingletrackanditbecomesassmoothalmostasarailwayIamtoldthatintheAroostookcountrythesledsarerequiredbylawtobeofonewidth(fourfeet)andsleighsmustbealteredtofitthetracksothatonerunnermaygoinonerutandtheotherfollowthehorseYetitisverybadturningoutWehadforsome timeseena thunder-showercomingupfromthewestoverthewoods of the island and heard themuttering of the thunder thoughwewere in doubt whether it would reach us but now the darkness rapidlyincreasingandafreshbreezerustlingtheforestwehastilyputuptheplantswhich we had been drying and with one consent made a rush for the tentmaterialandsetaboutpitchingitAplacewasselectedandstakesandpinscutin the shortest possible time andwewerepinning it down lest it shouldbeblownawaywhenthestormsuddenlyburstoverusAswe layhuddled togetherunder the tentwhich leakedconsiderablyaboutthe sideswith our baggage at our feetwe listened to someof thegrandestthunderwhichIeverheardmdashrapidpealsroundandplumpbangbangbangin succession like artillery from some fortress in the sky and the lightningwasproportionally brilliantThe Indian said Itmust be goodpowderAll

for thebenefit of themoose andus echoing far over the concealed lakes Ithought it must be a place which the thunder loved where the lightningpracticedtokeepitshandinanditwoulddonoharmtoshatterafewpinesWhat had become of the ephemeraelig and devils-needles then Were theyprudentenoughtoseekharborbeforethestormPerhapstheirmotionsmightguidethevoyageurLookingoutIperceivedthattheviolentshowerfallingonthelakehadalmostinstantaneously flattened the wavesmdashthe commander of that fortress hadsmootheditforussomdashanditclearingoffweresolvedtostartimmediatelybeforethewindraisedthemagainGoingoutsideIsaidthatIsawcloudsstillinthesouthwestandheardthunderthereTheIndianasked if the thunderwentlound(round)saying that if itdid we should have more rain I thought that it did We embarkednevertheless andpaddled rapidlyback toward thedamsThewhite-throatedsparrowsontheshorewereaboutsingingAhte-e-ete-e-eteorelseahte-e-ete-e-ete-e-ete-e-eAttheoutletofChamberlainLakewewereovertakenbyanothergustyrain-stormwhichcompelledus to takeshelter theIndianunderhiscanoeonthebankandweranundertheedgeofthedamHoweverweweremorescaredthanwetFrommycovertIcouldseetheIndianpeepingoutfrombeneathhiscanoetoseewhathadbecomeoftherainWhenwehadtakenourrespectiveplaces thus once or twice the rain not coming down in earnest wecommencedramblingabout theneighborhood for thewindhadby this timeraised suchwaveson the lake thatwecouldnot stir andwe feared thatweshouldbeobligedtocampthereWegotanearlysupperonthedamandtriedforfishtherewhilewaitingforthetumulttosubsideThefisheswerenotonlyfewbutsmallandworthlessandtheIndiandeclaredthattherewerenogoodfishesintheStJohnswatersthatwemustwaittillwegottothePenobscotwatersAtlengthjustbeforesunsetwesetoutagainItwasawildeveningwhenwecoastedupthenorthsideofthisApmoojenegamookLakeOnethunder-stormwas justoverand thewaveswhich ithad raisedstill runningwithviolenceandanotherstormwasnowseencomingupinthesouthwestfaroverthelakebutitmightbeworseinthemorningandwewishedtogetasfaraspossibleonourwayup the lakewhilewemight Itblowedhardagainst thenorthernshoreaboutaneighthofamiledistantonourleftandtherewasjustasmuchsea as our shallowcanoewouldbearwithout our takingunusual careThatwhichwekeptoffandtowardwhichthewavesweredrivingwasasdrearyandharborlessashoreasyoucanconceiveForhalfadozenrodsinwidthitwasaperfectmazeofsubmergedtreesalldeadandbareandbleachingsomestandinghalftheiroriginalheightothersprostrateandcriss-acrossaboveor

beneath the surface andmingledwith themwere loose trees and limbs andstumpsbeating about Imagine thewharvesof the largest city in theworlddecayedandtheearthandplankingwashedawayleavingthespilesstandingin looseorderbutoftenof twice theordinaryheight andmingledwithandbeating against them the wreck of ten thousand navies all their spars andtimbers while there rises from the waters edge the densest and grimmestwildernessreadytosupplymorematerialwhentheformerfailsandyoumaygetafaintideaofthatcoastWecouldnothavelandedifwewouldwithoutthegreatestdangerofbeingswampedsoblowasitmightwemustdependoncoasting by it It was twilight too and that stormy cloud was advancingrapidlyinourrearItwasapleasantexcitementyetweweregladtoreachatlengthinthedusktheclearedshoreoftheChamberlainFarmWelandedonalowandthinlywoodedpointthereandwhilemycompanionswerepitchingthetentIranuptothehousetogetsomesugaroursixpoundsbeing gonemdashit was nowonder theywere for Polis had a sweet tooth HewouldfirstfillhisdippernearlyathirdfullofsugarandthenaddthecoffeetoitHerewasaclearingextendingback from the lake toahilltopwithsomedark-colored log buildings and a storehouse in it and half a dozen menstandinginfrontoftheprincipalhutgreedyfornewsAmongthemwasthemanwho tended the dam on theAllegash and tossed the bulletHe havingchargeof thedams and learning thatweweregoing toWebsterStream thenextdaytoldmethatsomeoftheirmenwhowerehayingatTelosLakehadshutthedamatthecanalthereinordertocatchtroutandifwewantedmorewatertotakeusthroughthecanalwemightraisethegateforhewouldliketohaveitraisedTheChamberlainFarmisnodoubtacheerfulopeninginthewoods but such was the lateness of the hour that it has left but a duskyimpressiononmymindAsIhavesaidtheinfluxoflightmerelyiscivilizingyetIfanciedthattheywalkedaboutonSundaysintheirclearingsomewhatasinaprison-yardThey were unwilling to spare more than four pounds of brown sugarmdashunlockingthestorehousetogetitmdashsincetheyonlykeptalittleforsuchcasesas thisand theycharged twentycentsapound for itwhichcertainly itwasworthtogetitupthereWhen I returned to the shore itwasquitedarkbutwehada rousing fire towarmanddryusbyandasnugapartmentbehinditTheIndianwentuptothehouse to inquireafterabrotherwhohadbeenabsenthuntingayearor twoandwhile another showerwasbeginning I gropedabout cutting spruceandarbor-vitaelig twigs for a bed I preferred the arbor-vitaelig on account of itsfragranceandspreaditparticularlythickabouttheshouldersItisremarkablewithwhatpuresatisfactionthetravelerinthesewoodswillreachhiscamping-groundontheeveofatempestuousnightlikethisasifhehadgottohisinn

androllinghimselfinhisblanketstretchhimselfonhissix-feet-by-twobedofdrippingfirtwigswithathinsheetofcottonforroofsnugasameadow-mouseinitsnestInvariablyourbestnightswerethosewhenitrainedforthenwewerenottroubledwithmosquitoesYousooncometodisregardrainonsuchexcursionsatleastinthesummeritissoeasytodryyourselfsupposingadrychangeofclothingisnottobehadYoucanmuchsoonerdryyoubysucha fireasyoucanmake in thewoodsthaninanybodyskitchenthefireplaceissomuchlargerandwoodsomuchmore abundant A shed-shaped tent will catch and reflect the heat like aYankeebakerandyoumaybedryingwhileyouaresleepingSomewhohaveleakyroofsinthetownsmayhavebeenkeptawakebutweweresoonlulledasleepbyasteadysoakingrainwhichlastedallnightTo-nighttherainnotcomingatoncewithviolencethetwigsweresoondriedbythereflectedheatWEDNESDAYJuly29WhenweawokeithaddonerainingthoughitwasstillcloudyThefirewasputoutandtheIndiansbootswhichstoodundertheeavesofthetentwerehalffullofwaterHewasmuchmoreimprovidentinsuchrespectsthaneitherofusandhehadtothankusforkeepinghispowderdryWedecidedtocrossthelakeatoncebeforebreakfastorwhilewecouldandbeforestartingItookthebearingoftheshorewhichwewishedtostrikeSSEaboutthreemilesdistant lest a sudden misty rain should conceal it when we were midwayThoughthebayinwhichwewerewasperfectlyquietandsmoothwefoundthelakealreadywideawakeoutsidebutnotdangerouslyorunpleasantlysoneverthelesswhenyougetoutononeofthoselakesinacanoelikethisyoudonot forget thatyouarecompletelyat themercyof thewindanda ficklepower it isTheplayfulwavesmayat any timebecome too rude foryou intheirsportandplayrightonoveryouWesawafewshecorwaysandafishhawk thus early and aftermuch steady paddling and dancing over the darkwavesofApmoojenegamookwefoundourselvesintheneighborhoodofthesouthernlandheardthewavesbreakingonitandturnedourthoughtswhollyto that side After coasting eastward along this shore a mile or two webreakfastedonarockypointthefirstconvenientplacethatofferedItwaswell enough thatwe crossed thus early for thewaves now ran quitehighandweshouldhavebeenobligedtogoroundsomewhatbutbeyondthispointwehadcomparativelysmoothwaterYoucancommonlygoalongonesideortheotherofalakewhenyoucannotcrossitTheIndianwas lookingat thehard-woodridgesfromtime to timeandsaidthat he would like to buy a few hundred acres somewhere about this lakeaskingouradviceItwastobuyasnearthecrossing-placeaspossible

MycompanionandIhavingaminutesdiscussiononsomepointofancienthistorywereamusedbytheattitudewhichtheIndianwhocouldnottellwhatweweretalkingaboutassumedHeconstitutedhimselfumpireandjudgingby our air and gesture he very seriously remarked from time to time youbeatorhebeatLeavingaspaciousbayanortheasterlyprolongationofChamberlainLakeonourleftweenteredthroughashortstrait intoasmall lakeacoupleofmilesovercalledon themapTelasinisbut theIndianhadnodistinctnamefor itand thence into Telos Lake which he calledPaytaywecomgomoc or Burnt-Ground Lake This curved round toward the northeast andmay have beenthreeorfourmileslongaswepaddledHehadnotbeenheresince1825HedidnotknowwhatTelosmeantthoughtitwasnotIndianHeusedthewordspokelogan(foraninletintheshorewhichlednowhere)andwhenIaskeditsmeaningsaidthattherewasnoIndianinemTherewasaclearingwithahouseandbarnonthesouthwestshoretemporarilyoccupiedbysomemenwhoweregettingthehayaswehadbeentoldalsoaclearingforapastureonahillonthewestsideofthelakeWe landedona rockypointon thenortheast side to lookat someredpines(Pinus resinosa) the first we had noticed and get some cones for our fewwhichgrowinConcorddonotbearanyTheoutletfromthelakeintotheEastBranchofthePenobscotisanartificialone and it was not very apparent where it was exactly but the lake rancurvingfarupnortheasterlyintotwonarrowvalleysorravinesasifithadforalongtimebeengropingitswaytowardthePenobscotwatersorrememberedwhen it anciently flowed therebyobservingwhere thehorizonwas lowestandfollowingthelongestoftheseweatlengthreachedthedamhavingcomeaboutadozenmilesfromthelastcampSomebodyhadleftalinesetfortroutandthejackknifewithwhichthebaithadbeencutonthedambesideitanevidence thatmanwas near and on a deserted log close by a loaf of breadbakedinaYankeebakerTheseprovedthepropertyofasolitaryhunterwhomwesoonmetandcanoeandgunandtrapswerenotfaroffHetoldusthatitwas twentymiles fartheronour route to the footofGrandLakewhereyoucouldcatchasmany troutasyouwantedand that the firsthousebelow thefootofthelakeontheEastBranchwasHuntsaboutforty-fivemilesfartherthough therewasoneaboutamileandahalfupTroutStreamsomefifteenmilesaheadbutitwasratherablindroutetoitItturnedoutthatthoughthestreamwasinourfavorwedidnotreachthenexthousetillthemorningofthethirdday after thisThenearest permanently inhabitedhousebehinduswasnowadozenmilesdistantsothattheintervalbetweenthetwonearesthousesonourroutewasaboutsixtymilesThishunterwhowasaquitesmallsunburntmanhavingalreadycarriedhis

canoeoverandbakedhisloafhadnothingsointerestingandpressingtodoastoobserveourtransitHehadbeenoutamonthormorealoneHowmuchmorewildandadventuroushislifethanthatofthehunterinConcordwoodswho gets back to his house and the mill-dam every night Yet they in thetowns who have wild oats to sow commonly sow them on cultivated andcomparatively exhausted ground And as for the rowdy world in the largecities so little enterprisehas it that it never adventures in thisdirectionbutlike vermin clubs together in alleys and drinking-saloons its highestaccomplishmentperchance to runbesidea fire-engineand throwbrickbatsBut the former is comparatively an independent and successfulmangettinghislivinginawaythathelikeswithoutdisturbinghishumanneighborsHowmuchmorerespectablealsoisthelifeofthesolitarypioneerorsettlerintheseoranywoodsmdashhavingrealdifficultiesnotofhisowncreationdrawinghissubsistencedirectly fromnaturemdashthan thatof thehelplessmultitudes in thetownswhodependongratifyingtheextremelyartificialwantsofsocietyandarethrownoutofemploymentbyhardtimesHere for the first time we found the raspberries really plentymdashthat is onpassing theheight of landbetween theAllegash and theEastBranchof thePenobscotthesamewastrueoftheblueberriesTelosLaketheheadoftheStJohnonthissideandWebsterPondtheheadoftheEastBranchofthePenobscotareonlyaboutamileapartandtheyareconnectedby a ravine inwhichbut little diggingwas required tomake thewater of the former which is the highest flow into the latter This canalwhichissomethinglessthanamilelongandaboutfourrodswidewasmadeafewyearsbeforemyfirstvisittoMaineSincethenthelumberoftheupperAllegash and its lakes has been run down the Penobscot that is up theAllegash which here consists principally of a chain of large and stagnantlakes whose thoroughfares or river-links have been made nearly equallystagnantbydammingandthendownthePenobscotTherushofthewaterhasproducedsuchchanges in thecanal that ithasnowtheappearanceofaveryrapidmountain stream flowing througha ravine andyouwouldnot suspectthatanydigginghadbeenrequired topersuade thewatersof theSt John toflow into thePenobscothere Itwassowinding thatonecouldseebut littlewaydownItisstatedbySpringerinhisForestLifethatthecauseofthiscanalbeingdugwasthisaccordingtothetreatyof1842withGreatBritainitwasagreedthatallthetimberrundowntheStJohnwhichrisesinMainewhenwithintheProvinceofNewBrunswickshallbedealtwithasifitweretheproduceofthesaidProvincewhichwasthoughtbyoursidetomeanthatitshouldbefreefromtaxationImmediatelytheProvincewishingtogetsomethingoutoftheYankeesleviedadutyonallthetimberthatpasseddowntheStJohnbut

to satisfy its own subjects made a correspondingdiscount on the stumpagecharged thosehauling timber fromthecrown landsThe resultwas that theYankeesmadetheStJohnruntheotherwayordownthePenobscotsothattheProvincelostbothitsdutyanditswaterwhiletheYankeesbeinggreatlyenrichedhadreasontothankitforthesuggestionItiswonderfulhowwellwateredthiscountryisAsyoupaddleacrossalakebays will be pointed out to you by following up which and perhaps thetributarystreamwhichemptiesinyoumayafterashortportageorpossiblyat some seasons none at all get into another riverwhich empties far awayfromtheoneyouareonGenerallyyoumaygoinanydirectioninacanoebymakingfrequentbutnotverylongportagesYouareonlyrealizingoncemorewhatallnaturedistinctlyremembersherefornodoubtthewatersflowedthusinaformergeologicalperiodandinsteadofbeingalakecountry itwasanarchipelago It seems as if the more youthful and impressible streams canhardly resist the numerous invitations and temptations to leave their nativebedsandrundowntheirneighborschannelsYourcarriesareoftenoverhalf-submergedgroundon thedrychannelsofaformerperiod IncarryingfromonerivertoanotherIdidnotgooversuchhighandrockygroundasingoingabout thefallsof thesameriverFor in theformercaseIwasonce lost inaswampasIhaverelatedandagainfoundanartificialcanalwhichappearedtobenaturalI remember once dreaming of pushing a canoe up the rivers ofMaine andthatwhenIhadgotsohighthatthechannelsweredryIkeptonthroughtheravines and gorges nearly aswell as before by pushing a little harder andnowitseemedtomethatmydreamwaspartiallyrealizedWhereverthereisachannelforwaterthereisaroadforthecanoeThepilotofthesteamerwhichranfromOldtownupthePenobscotin1854toldmethatshe drew only fourteen inches and would run easily in two feet of waterthoughtheydidnotliketoItissaidthatsomeWesternsteamerscanrunonaheavy dewwhencewe can imaginewhat a canoemay doMontresorwhowassentfromQuebecby theEnglishabout1760toexplore theroute to theKennebecoverwhichArnoldafterwardpassedsupplied thePenobscotnearitssourcewithwaterbyopeningthebeaver-damsandhesaysThisisoftendone He afterward states that the Governor of Canada had forbidden tomolestthebeaverabouttheoutletoftheKennebecfromMooseheadLakeonaccount of the service which their dams did by raising the water fornavigationThiscanalsocalledwasaconsiderableandextremelyrapidandrockyriverTheIndiandecidedthattherewaswaterenoughinitwithoutraisingthedamwhichwouldonlymakeitmoreviolentandthathewouldrundownitalonewhilewecarried thegreater part of thebaggageOurprovisionbeing about

halfconsumedtherewasthelessleftinthecanoeWehadthrownawaythepork-keg and wrapt its contents in birch bark which is the unequaledwrapping-paperofthewoodsFollowing amoist trail through the forest we reached the head ofWebsterPondabout thesametimewith theIndiannotwithstandingthevelocitywithwhichhemovedourroutebeingthemostdirectTheIndiannameofWebsterStreamofwhichthispondisthesourceisaccordingtohimMadunkchunki eHeight ofLand and of the pondMadunkchunk-gamooc orHeight ofLandPondThelatterwastwoorthreemileslongWepassednearapineonitsshorewhichhadbeensplinteredbylightningperhapsthedaybeforeThiswasthefirstproperEastBranchPenobscotwaterthatwecametoAt the outlet ofWebster Lake was another dam at which we stopped andpickedraspberrieswhiletheIndianwentdownthestreamahalf-milethroughtheforest toseewhathehadgot tocontendwithTherewasadeserted logcamphere apparentlyused thepreviouswinterwith its hovelorbarn forcattle In the hut was a large fir twig bed raised two feet from the flooroccupyingalargepartofthesingleapartmentalongnarrowtableagainstthewallwithastoutlogbenchbeforeitandabovethetableasmallwindowtheonlyonetherewaswhichadmittedafeeblelightItwasasimpleandstrongfort erected against the cold and suggestedwhat valiant trencherwork hadbeendonethereIdiscoveredoneortwocuriouswoodentrapswhichhadnotbeenusedforalongtimeinthewoodsnearbyTheprincipalpartconsistedofalongandslenderpoleWegot our dinner on the shore on the upper side of the damAsweweresitting by our fire concealed by the earth bank of the dam a long line ofsheldrakehalf-growncamewaddlingover it from thewaterbelowpassingwithin about a rod of us so thatwe could almost have caught them in ourhandsTheywereveryabundantonallthestreamsandlakeswhichwevisitedandeverytwoorthreehourstheywouldrushawayinalongstringoverthewaterbeforeustwentytofiftyofthematoncerarelyeverflyingbutrunningwith great rapidity up or down the stream even in the midst of the mostviolentrapidsandapparentlyasfastupasdownorelsecrossingdiagonallytheoldasitappearedbehindanddrivingthemandflyingtothefrontfromtime to time as if to direct themWe also saw many small black dipperswhichbehavedinasimilarmannerandonceortwiceafewblackducksAnIndianatOldtownhadtoldusthatweshouldbeobligedtocarrytenmilesbetweenTelosLakeon theStJohnandSecondLakeon theEastBranchofthePenobscot but the lumbererswhomwemet assuredus that therewouldnotbemorethanamileofcarryItturnedoutthattheIndianwhohadlatelybeenoverthisroutewasnearestrightasfaraswewereconcernedHoweverifoneofuscouldhaveassistedtheIndianinmanagingthecanoeintherapids

wemight have run the greater part of the way but as he was alone in themanagementofthecanoeinsuchplaceswewereobligedtowalkthegreaterpartIdidnotfeelquitereadytotrysuchanexperimentonWebsterStreamwhich has so bad a reputation According to my observation a batteauproperlymanned shoots rapids as amatterof coursewhicha single IndianwithacanoecarriesroundMy companion and I carried a good part of the baggage on our shoulderswhiletheIndiantookthatwhichwouldbeleast injuredbywet inthecanoeWedidnotknowwhenweshouldseehimagainforhehadnotbeenthiswaysincethecanalwascutnorformorethanthirtyyearsHeagreedtostopwhenhegottosmoothwatercomeupandfindourpathifhecouldandhallooforusandafterwaitingareasonabletimegoonandtryagainmdashandweweretolookoutinlikemannerforhimHecommencedbyrunningthroughthesluicewayandoverthedamasusualstandingupinhistossingcanoeandwassoonoutofsightbehindapointinawildgorgeThisWebsterStream iswell known to lumbermen as a difficultone It is exceedingly rapid and rocky and also shallow and can hardly beconsiderednavigableunlessthatmaymeanthatwhatislaunchedinitissuretobecarriedswiftlydownitthoughitmaybedashedtopiecesbythewayItis somewhat like navigating a thunder-spoutWith commonly an irresistibleforceurgingyouonyouhavegot tochooseyourowncourseeachmomentbetween the rocks and shallows and to get into itmoving forward alwayswiththeutmostpossiblemoderationandoftenholdingonifyoucanthatyoumayinspecttherapidsbeforeyouBy the Indians direction we took an old path on the south side whichappearedtokeepdownthestreamthoughataconsiderabledistancefromitcuttingoffbendsperhapstoSecondLakehavingfirsttakenthecoursefromthemapwith a compasswhichwas northeasterly for safety It was awildwood-pathwithafewtracksofoxenwhichhadbeendrivenoveritprobablyto someold campclearing forpasturagemingledwith the tracksofmoosewhichhadlatelyuseditWekeptonsteadilyforaboutanhourwithoutputtingdownourpacksoccasionallywindingaroundorclimbingoverafallen treefor themostpart faroutof sight andhearingof the river till afterwalkingaboutthreemilesweweregladtofindthatthepathcametotheriveragainatanoldcampgroundwheretherewasasmallopeningintheforestatwhichwepausedSwiftlyastheshallowandrockyriverranhereacontinuousrapidwithdancingwavesIsawasIsatontheshorea longstringofsheldrakeswhichsomethingscared runup theopposite sideof thestreambymewiththesameeasethattheycommonlydiddownitjusttouchingthesurfaceofthewavesandgettinganimpulsefromthemastheyflowedfromunderthembuttheysooncamebackdrivenbytheIndianwhohadfallenalittlebehinduson

accountofthewindingsHeshotroundapointjustaboveandcametolandbyuswithconsiderablewaterinhiscanoeHehadfounditashesaidverystrongwaterandhadbeenobligedtolandoncebeforetoemptyoutwhathehadtakeninHecomplainedthatitstrainedhimtopaddlesohardinordertokeephis canoe straight in its course havingnoone in thebows to aidhimand shallow as itwas said that itwould be no joke to upset there for theforceofthewaterwassuchthathehadasliefIwouldstrikehimovertheheadwithapaddleashavethatwaterstrikehimSeeinghimcomeoutofthatgapwasasifyoushouldpourwaterdownaninclinedandzigzagtroughthendropanutshellintoitandtakingashortcuttothebottomgetthereintimetoseeitcomeoutnotwithstandingtherushandtumultrightsideupandonlypartlyfullofwaterAfteramomentsbreathing-spacewhileIheldhiscanoehewassoonoutofsightagainaroundanotherbendandweshoulderingourpacksresumedourcourseWedidnotatoncefallintoourpathagainbutmadeourwaywithdifficultyalongtheedgeoftherivertillatlengthstrikinginlandthroughtheforestwerecovered itBeforegoing amileweheard the Indian calling tousHehadcome up through the woods and along the path to find us having reachedsufficientlysmoothwatertowarranthistakingusinTheshorewasaboutonefourthofamiledistantthroughadensedarkforestandasheledusbacktoitwindingrapidlyabouttotherightandleftIhadthecuriositytolookdowncarefully and found that hewas followinghis steps backward I could onlyoccasionallyperceivehis trail inthemossandyethedidnotappeartolookdownnorhesitateaninstantbutledusoutexactlytohiscanoeThissurprisedmeforwithoutacompassor thesightornoiseof theriver toguideuswecould not have kept our coursemanyminutes and could have retraced ourstepsbutashortdistancewithagreatdealofpainsandveryslowlyusingalaboriouscircumspectionButitwasevidentthathecouldgobackthroughtheforestwhereverhehadbeenduringthedayAfterthisroughwalkinginthedarkwoodsitwasanagreeablechangetoglidedowntherapidriverinthecanoeoncemoreThisriverwhichwasaboutthesizeofourAssabet(inConcord)thoughstillveryswiftwasalmostperfectlysmoothhereandshowedaveryvisibledeclivitya regularly inclinedplaneforseveralmileslikeamirrorsetalittleaslantonwhichwecoasteddownThis very obvious regular descent particularly plain when I regarded thewater-line against the shoresmade a singular impression onmewhich theswiftnessofourmotionprobablyenhancedso thatweseemedtobeglidingdown a much steeper declivity than we were and that we could not saveourselves from rapids and falls if we should suddenly come to them Mycompanion did not perceive this slope but I have a surveyors eyes and I

satisfiedmyself that itwas no ocular illusionYou could tell at a glance onapproaching such a river which way the water flowed though you mightperceivenomotionIobservedtheangleatwhichalevellinewouldstrikethesurfaceandcalculatedtheamountoffall inarodwhichdidnotneedtoberemarkablygreattoproducethiseffectItwasveryexhilaratingandtheperfectionoftravelingquiteunlikefloatingonourdeadConcordRiverthecoastingdownthisinclinedmirrorwhichwasnow and then gently winding down a mountain indeed between twoevergreenforestsedgedwithloftydeadwhitepinessometimesslantedhalf-way over the stream and destined soon to bridge it I saw some monstersthere nearly destitute of branches and scarcely diminishing in diameter foreightyorninetyfeetAswethussweptalongourIndianrepeatedinadeliberateanddrawlingtonethewordsDanielWebstergreatlawyerapparentlyremindedofhimbythenameof the stream andhe describedhis calling on himonce inBoston atwhathesupposedwashisboarding-houseHehadnobusinesswithhimbutmerelywenttopayhisrespectsasweshouldsayInanswertoourquestionshedescribedhispersonwellenoughItwasonthedayafterWebsterdeliveredhisBunkerHillorationwhichIbelievePolisheardThefirsttimehecalledhewaited till he was tired without seeing him and then went away The nexttimehesawhimgobythedooroftheroominwhichhewaswaitingseveraltimes in his shirt-sleeves without noticing him He thought that if he hadcometoseeIndianstheywouldnothavetreatedhimsoAtlengthafterverylongdelayhecameinwalkedtowardhimandaskedinaloudvoicegrufflyWhatdoyouwantandhethinkingatfirstbythemotionofhishandthathewasgoingtostrikehimsaidtohimselfYoudbettertakecareifyoutrythatIshallknowwhattodoHedidnotlikehimanddeclaredthatallhesaidwas not worth talk about a musquash We suggested that probably MrWebsterwasverybusyandhadagreatmanyvisitorsjustthenComing to falls and rapidsoureasyprogresswas suddenly terminatedTheIndianwentalongshoretoinspectthewaterwhileweclimbedovertherockspickingberriesThepeculiargrowthofblueberriesonthetopsoflargerocksheremade the impression of high land and indeed this was the Height-of-LandStreamWhentheIndiancamebackheremarkedYougottowalkverstrongwaterSo takingouthiscanoehe launcheditagainbelowthefallsandwassoonoutofsightAtsuchtimeshewouldstepintothecanoetakeuphispaddleandwithanairofmysterystartofflookingfardown-streamandkeeping his own counsel as if absorbing all the intelligence of forest andstream into himself but I sometimes detected a little fun in his facewhichcould yield tomy sympathetic smile for hewas thoroughly good-humoredWemeanwhile scrambledalong the shorewithourpackswithout anypath

ThiswasthelastofourboatingforthedayTheprevailing rockherewas akindof slate standingon its edges andmycompanionwhowasrecently fromCalifornia thought itexactly like that inwhichthegoldisfoundandsaidthatifhehadhadapanhewouldhavelikedtowashalittleofthesandhereTheIndiannowgotalongmuchfasterthanweandwaitedforusfromtimetotime I found here the only cool spring that I drank at anywhere on thisexcursion a little water filling a hollow in the sandy bank It was a quitememorableevent anddue to theelevationof thecountry forwherever elsewehadbeenthewaterintheriversandthestreamsemptyinginwasdeadandwarmcomparedwiththatofamountainousregionItwasverybadwalkingalongtheshoreoverfallenanddriftedtreesandbushesandrocksfromtimetotimeswingingourselvesroundoverthewaterorelsetakingtoagravelbarorgoinginlandAtoneplacetheIndianbeingaheadIwasobligedtotakeoffallmyclothesinordertofordasmallbutdeepstreamemptyinginwhilemycompanionwhowasinlandfoundarudebridgehighupinthewoodsandIsawnomoreofhimforsometimeIsawthereveryfreshmoosetracksfoundanewgoldenrodtome(perhapsSolidagothyrsoidea)andIpassedonewhitepine logwhichhad lodged in the forestnear theedgeof thestreamwhichwasquitefivefeetindiameteratthebuttProbablyitssizedetaineditShortlyafterthisIovertooktheIndianattheedgeofsomeburntlandwhichextended three or four miles at least beginning about three miles aboveSecondLakewhichwewereexpectingtoreachthatnightandwhichisabouttenmilesfromTelosLakeThisburntregionwasstillmorerockythanbeforebut though comparatively open we could not yet see the lake Not havingseenmycompanionforsometimeIclimbedwiththeIndianasingularhighrockontheedgeoftheriverforminganarrowridgeonlyafootortwowideattopinordertolookforhimandaftercallingmanytimesIatlengthheardhimanswerfromaconsiderabledistanceinlandhehavingtakenatrailwhichledofffromtheriverperhapsdirectlytothelakeandwasnowinsearchoftheriveragainSeeingamuchhigherrockof thesamecharacteraboutonethirdofamilefarthereastordown-streamIproceededtowarditthroughtheburnt land inorder to look for the lake from its summit supposing that theIndianwouldkeepdownthestreaminhiscanoeandhallooingall thewhilethat my companion might join me on the way Before we came together Inoticed where a moose which possibly I had scared by my shouting hadapparentlyjustrunalongalargerottentrunkofapinewhichmadeabridgethirtyorfortyfeetlongoverahollowasconvenientforhimasformeThetrackswereaslargeasthoseofanoxbutanoxcouldnothavecrossedthereThisburntlandwasanexceedinglywildanddesolateregionJudgingbytheweedsandsprouts itappearedtohavebeenburntabout twoyearsbeforeIt

wascoveredwithcharred trunkseitherprostrateorstandingwhichcrockedourclothesandhandsandwecouldnoteasilyhavedistinguishedabeartherebyhiscolorGreatshellsoftreessometimesunburntwithoutorburntononesideonlybutblackwithinstoodtwentyorfortyfeethighThefirehadrunupinsideasinachimneyleavingthesap-woodSometimeswecrossedarockyravine fifty feetwide on a fallen trunk and therewere great fields of fire-weed (Epilobium angustifolium) on all sides themost extensive that I eversaw which presented great masses of pink Intermixed with these wereblueberryandraspberrybushesHavingcrosseda second rocky ridge like the firstwhen Iwasbeginning toascend the third the Indian whom I had left on the shore some fifty rodsbehind beckoned tome to come to him but Imade sign that Iwould firstascend the highest rock before me whence I expected to see the lakeMycompanionaccompaniedmetothetopThiswasformedjust liketheothersBeingstruckwiththeperfectparallelismofthesesingularrockhillshowevermuchonemightbeinadvanceofanotherItookoutmycompassandfoundthat they laynorthwest and southeast the rockbeingon its edge and sharpedges theywereThisone to speak frommemorywasperhaps a thirdof amile in length but quite narrow rising gradually from the northwest to theheightofabouteightyfeetbutsteeponthesoutheastendThesouthwestsidewas as steep as anordinary roof or aswecould safely climb thenortheastwasanabruptprecipicefromwhichyoucouldjumpcleantothebottomnearwhichtheriverflowedwhiletheleveltopoftheridgeonwhichyouwalkedalongwasonlyfromonetothreeorfourfeetinwidthForarudeillustrationtakethehalfofapearcutintwolengthwiselayitonitsflatsidethestemtothenorthwestandthenhalveitverticallyinthedirectionofitslengthkeepingthesouthwesthalfSuchwasthegeneralformThere was a remarkable series of these great rock-waves revealed by theburning breakers as it were No wonder that the river that found its waythroughthemwasrapidandobstructedbyfallsNodoubttheabsenceofsoilon these rocks or its drynesswhere therewas any caused this tobe averythoroughburningWecouldsee the lakeover thewoods twoor threemilesaheadandthattherivermadeanabruptturnsouthwardaroundthenorthwestendofthecliffonwhichwestoodoralittleaboveussothatwehadcutoffabend and that therewas an important fall in it a short distance belowus IcouldseethecanoeahundredrodsbehindbutnowontheoppositeshoreandsupposedthattheIndianhadconcludedtotakeoutandcarryroundsomebadrapidsonthatsideandthatthatmightbewhathehadbeckonedtomeforbutafterwaiting awhile I could still seenothingof him and I observed tomycompanion that Iwonderedwherehewas thoughIbegantosuspect thathehadgoneinlandtolookforthelakefromsomehilltoponthatsideaswehaddoneThisprovedtobethecaseforafterIhadstartedtoreturntothecanoeI

heardafainthallooanddescriedhimonthetopofadistantrockyhillonthatsideButas aftera long timehadelapsed I still sawhiscanoe in the sameplaceandhehadnot returned to itandappeared innohurry todosoandmoreoverasIrememberedthathehadpreviouslybeckonedtomeIthoughtthat theremightbe somethingmore todelayhim than Iknewandbegan toreturn northwest along the ridge toward the angle in the river MycompanionwhohadjustbeenseparatedfromusandhadevencontemplatedthenecessityofcampingalonewishingtohusbandhisstepsandyettokeepwithusinquiredwhereIwasgoingtowhichIansweredthatIwasgoingfarenoughbacktocommunicatewiththeIndianandthatthenIthoughtwehadbettergoalongtheshoretogetherandkeephiminsightWhenwereached theshore the Indianappeared fromout thewoodson theopposite side but on account of the roar of the water it was difficult tocommunicatewithhimHekeptalongtheshorewestwardtohiscanoewhilewe stopped at the angle where the stream turned southward around theprecipiceIagainsaidtomycompanionthatwewouldkeepalongtheshoreand keep the Indian in sightWe started to do so being close together theIndian behind us having launched his canoe again but just then I saw thelatterwhohadcrossedtooursidefortyorfiftyrodsbehindbeckoningtomeandIcalledtomycompanionwhohadjustdisappearedbehindlargerocksatthepointoftheprecipicethreeorfourrodsbeforemeonhiswaydownthestreamthatIwasgoingtohelptheIndianamomentIdidsomdashhelpedgetthecanoeoverafalllyingwithmybreastoverarockandholdingoneendwhilehe received it belowmdashandwithin tenor fifteenminutes atmost IwasbackagainatthepointwheretheriverturnedsouthwardinordertocatchupwithmycompanionwhilePolisglideddowntheriveraloneparallelwithmeButtomy surprisewhen I rounded the precipice though the shorewas bare oftreeswithoutrocksforaquarterofamileatleastmycompanionwasnottobe seen It was as if he had sunk into the earth This was the moreunaccountable to me because I knew that his feet were since our swampwalkvery sore and thathewished tokeepwith theparty andbesides thiswas very bad walking climbing over or about the rocks I hastened alonghallooing and searching for him thinking he might be concealed behind arockyetdoubtingifhehadnottakentheothersideoftheprecipicebuttheIndianhadgotalongstillfasterinhiscanoetillhewasarrestedbythefallsaboutaquarterofamilebelowHethenlandedandsaidthatwecouldgonofartherthatnightThesunwassettingandonaccountoffallsandrapidsweshouldbeobligedtoleavethisriverandcarryagoodwayintoanotherfarthereastThefirstthingthenwastofindmycompanionforIwasnowverymuchalarmedabouthimandIsenttheIndianalongtheshoredown-streamwhichbegan to be covered with unburnt wood again just below the falls while Isearched backward about the precipice which we had passed The Indian

showed some unwillingness to exert himself complaining that hewas verytired in consequence of his dayswork that it had strained him verymuchgettingdownsomanyrapidsalonebuthewentoffcallingsomewhatlikeanowlIrememberedthatmycompanionwasnear-sightedandIfearedthathehadeitherfallenfromtheprecipiceorfaintedandsunkdownamidtherocksbeneath it I shouted and searched above and below this precipice in thetwilight till I could not see expecting nothing less than to find his bodybeneathitForhalfanhourIanticipatedandbelievedonlytheworstIthoughtwhatIshoulddothenextdayifIdidnotfindhimwhatIcoulddoinsuchawildernessandhowhisrelativeswouldfeelifIshouldreturnwithouthimIfelt that if he were really lost away from the river there it would be adesperateundertakingtofindhimandwhereweretheywhocouldhelpyouWhat would it be to raise the country where there were only two or threecampstwentyorthirtymilesapartandnoroadandperhapsnobodyathomeYetwemusttrytheharderthelesstheprospectofsuccessIrusheddownfromthisprecipicetothecanoeinordertofiretheIndiansgunbutfoundthatmycompanionhadthecapsIwasstillthinkingofgettingitoffwhentheIndianreturnedHehadnotfoundhimbuthesaidthathehadseenhistracksonceortwicealongtheshoreThisencouragedmeverymuchHeobjectedtofiringthegunsayingthatifmycompanionhearditwhichwasnotlikelyonaccountoftheroarofthestreamitwouldtempthimtocometowardusandhemightbreakhisneckinthedarkForthesamereasonwerefrainedfromlightingafireonthehighestrockIproposedthatweshouldbothkeepdownthestreamtothelakeorthatIshouldgoatanyratebuttheIndiansaidNousecantdoanythingin thedarkcomemorning thenwefind emNoharmmdashhemakeemcampNobadanimalsherenogristlybearssuchasinCalifornia where hes beenmdashwarm nightmdashhe well off as you and I IconsideredthatifhewaswellhecoulddowithoutusHehadjustlivedeightyearsinCaliforniaandhadplentyofexperiencewithwildbeastsandwildermenwaspeculiarly accustomed tomake journeysof great length but if heweresickordeadhewasnearwherewewereThedarknessinthewoodswasby this so thick that it alonedecided thequestionWemustcampwherewewereIknewthathehadhisknapsackwithblanketsandmatchesandifwellwouldfarenoworsethanweexceptthathewouldhavenosuppernorsocietyThis side of the river being so encumbered with rocks we crossed to theeasternorsmoothershoreandproceededtocamptherewithin twoor threerods of the falls We pitched no tent but lay on the sand putting a fewhandfulsofgrass and twigsunderus therebeingnoevergreenat handForfuelwehadsomeofthecharredstumpsOurvariousbagsofprovisionshadgotquitewetintherapidsandIarrangedthemaboutthefiretodryThefallclosebywastheprincipaloneonthisstreamanditshooktheearthunderusIt was a cool because dewy night the more so probably owing to the

nearness of the falls The Indian complained a good deal and thoughtafterwardthathegotacoldtherewhichoccasionedamoreseriousillnessWewerenotmuch troubledbymosquitoesat any rate I layawakeagooddealfrom anxiety but unaccountably to myself was at length comparatively ateaserespectinghimAtfirstIhadapprehendedtheworstbutnowIhadlittledoubtbutthatIshouldfindhiminthemorningFromtimetotimeIfanciedthat I heardhisvoice calling through the roarof the falls from theoppositeside of the river but it is doubtful if we could have heard him across thestream there Sometimes I doubted whether the Indian had really seen histracks sincehemanifestedanunwillingness tomakemuchofa search andthenmyanxietyreturnedIt was the most wild and desolate region we had camped in where ifanywhere one might expect to meet with befitting inhabitants but I heardonlythesqueakofanighthawkflittingoverThemooninherfirstquarterintheforepartofthenightsettingoverthebarerockyhillsgarnishedwithtallcharredandhollowstumpsorshellsoftreesservedtorevealthedesolationTHURSDAYJuly30I aroused the Indian early this morning to go in search of our companionexpecting to find him within a mile or two farther down the stream TheIndianwantedhisbreakfastfirstbutIremindedhimthatmycompanionhadhadneitherbreakfastnorsupperWewereobligedfirsttocarryourcanoeandbaggageoverintoanotherstreamthemainEastBranchaboutthreefourthsofamiledistant forWebsterStreamwasno farthernavigableWewent twiceover this carry and the dewy bushes wet us through like water up to themiddle I hallooed in a high key from time to time though I had littleexpectationthatIcouldbeheardovertheroaroftherapidsandmoreoverwewerenecessarilyontheoppositesideofthestreamtohimIngoingoverthisportage the last time the Indianwhowas beforemewith the canoe on hisheadstumbledandfellheavilyonceandlayforamomentsilentasifinpainIhastilysteppedforwardtohelphimaskingifhewasmuchhurtbutafteramomentspausewithoutreplyinghesprangupandwentforwardHewasallthewaysubjecttotaciturnfitsbuttheywereharmlessonesWe had launched our canoe and gone but littleway down theEastBranchwhenIheardanansweringshoutfrommycompanionandsoonaftersawhimstandingonapointwheretherewasaclearingaquarterofamilebelowandthesmokeofhisfirewasrisingnearbyBeforeIsawhimInaturallyshoutedagain and again but the Indian curtly remarked Hehears you as if oncewas enough It was just below the mouth of Webster Stream When wearrived he was smoking his pipe and said that he had passed a prettycomfortablenightthoughitwasrathercoldonaccountofthedewIt appeared that when we stood together the previous evening and I was

shoutingtotheIndianacrosstheriverhebeingnear-sightedhadnotseentheIndiannorhiscanoeandwhenIwentbacktotheIndiansassistancedidnotseewhichwayIwentandsupposedthatwewerebelowandnotabovehimandsomakinghaste tocatchupheranawayfromusHavingreached thisclearingamileormorebelowourcampthenightovertookhimandhemadeafireinalittlehollowandlaydownbyitinhisblanketstillthinkingthatwewereaheadofhimHethoughtitlikelythathehadheardtheIndiancalloncetheeveningbeforebutmistookitforanowlHehadseenonebotanicalraritybefore itwasdarkmdashpurewhiteEpilobiumangustifoliumamidst the fieldsofpink ones in the burnt lands He had already stuck up the remnant of alumberersshirt foundonthepointonapolebythewatersideforasignalandattachedanotetoittoinformusthathehadgoneontothelakeandthatifhedidnotfindustherehewouldbebackinacoupleofhoursIfhehadnotfoundussoonhehadsomethoughtsofgoingback insearchof thesolitaryhunterwhomwehadmetatTelosLaketenmilesbehindandifsuccessfulhirehimtotakehimtoBangorButifthishunterhadmovedasfastaswehewouldhavebeentwentymilesoffbythistimeandwhocouldguessinwhatdirectionItwouldhavebeenlikelookingforaneedleinahaymowtosearchforhimin thesewoodsHehadbeenconsideringhowlonghecould liveonberriesaloneWesubstitutedforhisnoteacardcontainingournamesanddestinationandthedateofourvisitwhichPolisneatly inclosed in apieceofbirchbark tokeepitdryThishasprobablybeenreadbysomehunterorexplorererethisWeallhadgoodappetitesforthebreakfastwhichwemadehastetocookhereand then having partially dried our clothes we glided swiftly down thewindingstreamtowardSecondLakeAs the shores became flatter with frequent gravel and sand-bars and thestreammorewindinginthelowerlandnearthelakeelmsandashtreesmadetheirappearancealsothewildyellowlily(LiliumCanadense)someofwhosebulbsIcollectedforasoupOnsomeridgestheburntlandextendedasfarasthe lakeThiswas a very beautiful lake two or threemiles longwith highmountainsonthesouthwestsidethe(asourIndiansaid)Nerlumskeechticooki e Deadwater Mountain It appears to be the same called CarbuncleMountainonthemapAccordingtoPolisitextendsinseparateelevationsallalong this and thenext lakewhich ismuch largerThe lake too I think iscalledbythesamenameorperhapswiththeadditionofgamocormoocThemorningwasabrightoneandperfectlystillandserenethelakeassmoothasglasswemaking theonly ripple aswepaddled into itThedarkmountainsabout itwere seen through aglaucousmist and thebrilliantwhite stemsofcanoebirchesmingledwiththeotherwoodsarounditThewoodthrushsangon the distant shore and the laugh of some loons sporting in a concealed

westernbayasif inspiredbythemorningcamedistinctoverthelaketousandwhatwasmoreremarkabletheechowhichranroundthelakewasmuchlouderthantheoriginalnoteprobablybecausetheloonbeinginaregularlycurvingbayunderthemountainwewereexactlyinthefocusofmanyechoesthesoundbeingreflectedlikelightfromaconcavemirrorThebeautyofthescenemayhavebeenenhancedtooureyesbythefactthatwehadjustcometogether again after a night of some anxiety This reminded me of theAmbejijis Lake on theWestBranchwhich I crossed inmy first coming toMaine Having paddled down three quarters of the lake we came to astandstillwhilemycompanionletdownforfishAwhite(orwhitish)gullsaton a rock which rose above the surface in mid-lake not far off quite inharmonywiththesceneandaswerestedthereinthewarmsunweheardoneloudcrushingorcracklingsoundfromtheforestfortyorfiftyrodsdistantasof a stick broken by the foot of some large animal Even this was aninterestingincidentthereInthemidstofourdreamsofgiantlaketrouteventhensupposedtobenibblingourfishermendrewupadiminutiveredperchandwetookupourpaddlesagaininhasteItwas not apparentwhere the outlet of this lakewas andwhile the IndianthoughtitwasinonedirectionIthoughtitwasinanotherHesaidIbetyoufour-penceitistherebuthestillheldoninmydirectionwhichprovedtobethe right oneAswewere approaching the outlet it being still early in theforenoonhesuddenlyexclaimedMoosemooseandtoldustobestillHeputacaponhisgunandstandingupinthesternrapidlypushedthecanoestraighttowardtheshoreandthemooseItwasacowmooseaboutthirtyrodsoffstandinginthewaterbythesideoftheoutletpartlybehindsomefallentimberandbushesandat thatdistanceshedidnot lookvery largeShewasflapping her large ears and from time to time poking off the flieswith hernose from somepart of her body She did not appearmuch alarmed by ourneighborhoodonlyoccasionallyturnedherheadandlookedstraightatusandthengaveherattentiontothefliesagainAsweapproachednearershegotoutofthewaterstoodhigherandregardedusmoresuspiciouslyPolispushedthecanoe steadily forward in the shallowwater and I for amoment forgot themooseinattendingtosomeprettyrose-coloredPolygonumsjustrisingabovethesurfacebutthecanoesoongroundedinthemudeightortenrodsdistantfrom the moose and the Indian seized his gun and prepared to fire Afterstandingstillamomentsheturnedslowlyasusualsoastoexposehersideandhe improved thismoment to fireoverourheadsShe thereuponmovedoff eight or ten rods at a moderate pace across a shallow bay to an oldstanding-placeofhersbehindsomefallenredmaplesontheoppositeshoreand there she stood still again a dozen or fourteen rods from us while theIndian hastily loaded and fired twice at her without her moving MycompanionwhopassedhimhiscapsandbulletssaidthatPoliswasasexcited

asaboyoffifteen thathishandtrembledandheonceputhis ramrodbackupside down This was remarkable for so experienced a hunter Perhaps hewasanxioustomakeagoodshotbeforeusThewhitehunterhadtoldmethatthe Indianswere not good shots because theywere excited though he saidthatwehadgotagoodhunterwithusTheIndiannowpushedquicklyandquietlybackandalongdistanceroundinorder to get into the outletmdashfor he had fired over the neck of a peninsulabetween itand the lakemdashtillweapproached theplacewhere themoosehadstoodwhenheexclaimedSheisagonerandwassurprisedthatwedidnotseeherassoonashedidThere tobesureshe layperfectlydeadwithhertonguehangingoutjustwhereshehadstoodtoreceivethelastshotslookingunexpectedlylargeandhorse-likeandwesawwherethebulletshadscarredthetreesUsingatapeIfoundthatthemoosemeasuredjustsixfeetfromtheshouldertothetipofthehoofandwaseightfeetlongasshelaySomeportionsofthebody for a foot in diameterwere almost coveredwith flies apparently thecommonflyofourwoodswithadarkspotonthewingandnottheverylargeones which occasionally pursued us in midstream though both are calledmoose-fliesPolispreparingtoskinthemooseaskedmetohelphimfindastoneonwhichtosharpenhislargeknifeItbeingallaflatalluvialgroundwherethemoosehadfallencoveredwithredmaplesetcthiswasnoeasymatterwesearchedfarandwidealongtimetillatlengthIfoundaflatkindofslate-stoneandsoon after he returnedwith a similar one onwhichhe soonmadehis knifeverysharpWhilehewasskinningthemooseIproceededtoascertainwhatkindoffishesweretobefoundinthesluggishandmuddyoutletThegreatestdifficultywastofindapoleItwasalmostimpossibletofindaslenderstraightpoletenortwelvefeetlonginthosewoodsYoumightsearchhalfanhourinvainTheyarecommonlysprucearbor-vitaeligfiretcshortstoutandbranchyanddonotmakegoodfish-polesevenafteryouhavepatientlycutoffalltheirtoughandscraggybranchesThefisheswereredperchandchivinThe Indian having cut off a large piece of sirloin the upper lip and thetonguewrappedtheminthehideandplacedtheminthebottomofthecanoeobservingthattherewasonemanmeaningtheweightofoneOurloadhadpreviouslybeenreducedsomethirtypoundsbutahundredpoundswerenowaddedmdasha serious additionwhichmade our quarters stillmore narrow andconsiderablyincreasedthedangeronthelakesandrapidsaswellasthelaborofthecarriesTheskinwasoursaccordingtocustomsincetheIndianwasinouremploybutwedidnotthinkofclaimingitHebeingaskillfuldresserofmoose-hideswouldmakeitworthsevenoreightdollarstohimasIwastold

HesaidthathesometimesearnedfiftyorsixtydollarsinadayatthemhehadkilledtenmooseinonedaythoughtheskinningandalltooktwodaysThiswas the way he had got his property There were the tracks of a calfthereabouts which he saidwould come by by and he could get it if wecaredtowaitbutIcastcoldwaterontheprojectWecontinuedalongtheoutlettowardGrandLakethroughaswampyregionbya longwindingandnarrowdeadwaterverymuchchokedupbywoodwherewewereobligedtolandsometimesinordertogetthecanoeoveralogItwashardtofindanychannelandwedidnotknowbutweshouldbelostintheswampItaboundedinducksasusualAtlengthwereachedGrandLakewhichtheIndiancalledMatungamookAt the head of this we saw coming in from the southwest with a sweepapparently from a gorge in themountains Trout Stream orUncardnerheesewhichnametheIndiansaidhadsomethingtodowithmountainsWe stopped to dine on an interesting high rocky island soon after enteringMatungamook Lake securing our canoe to the cliffy shore It is alwayspleasant to step from a boat on to a large rock or cliff Here was a goodopportunity to dry our dewy blankets on the open sunny rock Indians hadrecently camped here and accidentally burned over the western end of theisland and Polis picked up a gun-case of blue broadcloth and said that heknewtheIndianitbelongedtoandwouldcarryittohimHistribeisnotsolargebuthemayknowallitseffectsWeproceededtomakeafireandcookourdinneramidsomepineswhereourpredecessorshaddonethesamewhiletheIndianbusiedhimselfabouthismoose-hideontheshoreforhesaidthathethoughtitagoodplanforonetodoallthecookingieIsupposeifthatonewerenothimselfApeculiarevergreenoverhungour firewhichat firstglancelookedlikeapitchpine(Prigida)withleaveslittlemorethananinchlongspruce-likebutwefoundittobethePinusBanksianamdashBankssortheLabradorPinealsocalledscrubpinegraypineetcanewtreetousThesemust have been good specimens for several were thirty or thirty-five feethigh Richardson found it forty feet high and upward and states that theporcupinefeedsonitsbarkHerealsogrewtheredpine(Pinusresinosa)I sawwhere the Indians hadmade canoes in a little secluded hollow in thewoodsonthetopoftherockwheretheywereoutofthewindandlargepilesof whittlings remained This must have been a favorite resort for theirancestorsandindeedwefoundherethepointofanarrowheadsuchastheyhavenotusedfortwocenturiesandnowknownothowtomakeTheIndianpickingupastoneremarkedtomeThatverystrangelock(rock)Itwasapiece of hornstone which I told him his tribe had probably brought herecenturiesbeforetomakearrowheadsofHealsopickedupayellowishcurvedbonebythesideofourfireplaceandaskedmetoguesswhatitwasItwasone

of theupper incisorsof abeaveronwhich somepartyhad feastedwithinayearortwoIfoundalsomostoftheteethandtheskulletcWeheredinedonfriedmoose-meatOnewhowasmycompanioninmytwopreviousexcursionstothesewoodstells me that when hunting up the Caucomgomoc about two years ago hefoundhimself diningonedayonmoose-meatmud turtle trout andbeaverand he thought that there were few places in the world where these dishescouldeasilybebroughttogetherononetableAfter the almost incessant rapids and falls of theMadunkchunk (Height-of-Land or Webster Stream) we had just passed through the dead water ofSecondLakeandwerenowinthemuchlargerdeadwaterofGrandLakeandIthoughttheIndianwasentitledtotakeanextranaphereKtaadnnearwhichwe were to pass the next day is said to mean Highest Land So muchgeographyisthereintheirnamesTheIndiannavigatornaturallydistinguishesbyanamethosepartsofastreamwherehehasencounteredquickwaterandforksandagainthelakesandsmoothwaterwherehecanresthiswearyarmssince those are themost interesting andmore arable parts to himThe verysightoftheNerlumskeechticookorDeadwaterMountainsadaysjourneyoffovertheforestaswefirstsawthemmustawakeninhimpleasingmemoriesAndnotlessinterestingisittothewhitetravelerwhenheiscrossingaplacidlakeintheseout-of-the-waywoodsperhapsthinkingthatheisinsomesenseoneoftheearlierdiscoverersofittoberemindedthatitwasthuswellknownandsuitablynamedbyIndianhuntersperhapsathousandyearsagoAscending theprecipitous rockwhich formed this longnarrow island Iwassurprisedtofindthatitssummitwasanarrowridgewithaprecipiceononeside and that its axis of elevation extended from northwest to southeastexactly like thatof thegreat rocky ridgeat thecommencementof theBurntGround tenmiles northwesterlyThe same arrangement prevailed here andwecouldplainlyseethatthemountainridgesonthewestofthelaketrendedthesamewaySplendidlargeharebellsnoddedovertheedgeandinthecleftsofthecliffandtheblueberries(VacciniumCanadense)wereforthefirsttimereally abundant in the thin soil on its top There was no lack of themhenceforward on the East Branch There was a fine view hence over thesparklinglakewhichlookedpureanddeepandhadtwoorthreeinallrockyislands in it Our blankets being dry we set out again the Indian as usualhaving left his gazette on a tree This time it waswe three in a canoemycompanionsmokingWepaddledsouthwarddownthishandsomelakewhichappearedtoextendnearlyasfareastassouthkeepingnearthewesternshorejustoutsideasmallislandunderthedarkNerlumskeechticookMountainForIhadobservedonmymapthatthiswasthecourseItwasthreeorfourmilesacrossitItstruckmethattheoutlineofthismountainonthesouthwestofthe

lakeandofanotherbeyonditwasnotonlylikethatofthehugerockwavesofWebsterStreambutinthemainlikeKineoonMooseheadLakehavingasimilar but less abrupt precipice at the southeast end in short that all theprominenthillsandridgeshereaboutswerelargerorsmallerKineosandthatpossibly therewas such a relation betweenKineo and the rocks ofWebsterStreamTheIndiandidnotknowexactlywheretheoutletwaswhetherattheextremesouthwest angle ormore easterly and had asked to seemy plan at the laststopping-placebutIhadforgottentoshowittohimAsusualhewentfeelinghiswaybyamiddlecoursebetweentwoprobablepointsfromwhichhecoulddiverge eitherway at lastwithout losingmuch distance In approaching thesouthshoreasthecloudslookedgustyandthewavesranprettyhighwesosteeredas togetpartlyunder the leeofan island thoughatagreatdistancefromitIcouldnotdistinguishtheoutlettillwewerealmostinitandheardthewaterfallingoverthedamthereHere was a considerable fall and a very substantial dam but no sign of acabinorcampThehunterwhomwemetatTelosLakehadtoldusthattherewereplentyof trout here but at this hour theydidnot rise to thebait onlycousintroutfromtheverymidstoftherushingwatersTherearenotsomanyfishesintheseriversasintheConcordWhileweloiteredherePolistookoccasiontocutwithhisbigknifesomeofthehair fromhismoose-hide and so lightened andprepared it for drying InoticedatseveraloldIndiancampsin thewoodsthepileofhairwhichtheyhadcutfromtheirhidesHavingcarriedoverthedamhedarteddowntherapidsleavingustowalkforamileormorewhereforthemostparttherewasnopathbutverythickanddifficult traveling near the stream At length he would call to let us knowwherehewaswaitingforuswithhiscanoewhenonaccountofthewindingsofthestreamwedidnotknowwheretheshorewasbuthedidnotcalloftenenoughforgettingthatwewerenotIndiansHeseemedtobeverysavingofhisbreathmdashyethewouldbesurprisedifwewentbyordidnotstriketherightspotThiswasnotbecausehewasunaccommodatingbutaproofofsuperiormannersIndiansliketogetalongwiththeleastpossiblecommunicationandadoHewasreallypayingusagreatcomplimentall thewhile thinking thatwepreferredahinttoakickAt length climbing over thewillows and fallen treeswhen thiswas easierthantogoroundorunderthemweovertookthecanoeandglideddownthestreaminsmoothbutswiftwaterforseveralmilesIhereobservedagainasatWebsterStreamandonastill larger scale thenextday that the riverwasa

smooth and regularly inclined plane down which we coasted As we thusglidedalongwestartedthefirstblackduckswhichwehaddistinguishedWe decided to camp early to-night that we might have ample time beforedark so we stopped at the first favorable shore where there was a narrowgravelly beach on thewestern side some fivemiles below the outlet of thelakeItwasaninterestingspotwheretheriverbegantomakeagreatbendtothe east and the last of the peculiar moose-faced NerlumskeechticookMountainsnotfarsouthwestofGrandLakerosedarkinthenorthwestashortdistancebehind displaying its grayprecipitous southeast side butwe couldnotseethiswithoutcomingoutupontheshoreTwostepsfromthewateroneithersideandyoucometotheabruptbushyandrooty if not turfy edge of the bank four or five feet high where theinterminableforestbeginsasifthestreamhadbutjustcutitswaythroughitItissurprisingonsteppingashoreanywhereintothisunbrokenwildernesstoseesooftenatleastwithinafewrodsoftheriverthemarksoftheaxemadeby lumberers who have either camped here or driven logs past in previousspringsYouwillseeperchancewheregoingonthesameerrandthatyoudotheyhavecutlargechipsfromatallwhitepinestumpfortheirfireWhilewewerepitchingthecampandgettingsuppertheIndiancuttherestofthehairfrom his moose-hide and proceeded to extend it vertically on a temporaryframebetweentwosmalltreeshalfadozenfeetfromtheoppositesideofthefirelashingandstretchingitwitharbor-vitaeligbarkwhichwasalwaysathandandinthiscasewasstrippedfromoneofthetreesitwastiedtoAskingforanew kind of tea he made us some pretty good of the checkerberry(Gaultheriaprocumbens)whichcoveredthegrounddroppingalittlebunchofit tied up with cedar bark into the kettle but it was not quite equal to theChiogenesWecalledthisthereforeCheckerberry-TeaCampI was struck with the abundance of the Linnaeliga borealis checkerberry andChiogeneshispidulaalmosteverywhereintheMainewoodsThewintergreen(Chimaphila umbellata) was still in bloom here and clintonia berries wereabundant and ripeThis handsomeplant is one of themost common in thatforest We here first noticed the moose-wood in fruit on the banks Theprevailingtreeswerespruce(commonlyblack)arbor-vitaeligcanoebirch(blackash and elms beginning to appear) yellow birch red maple and a littlehemlockskulkingintheforestTheIndiansaidthatthewhitemaplepunkwasthe best for tinder that yellow birch punkwas pretty good but hardAftersupperheputonthemoosetongueandlipstoboilcuttingouttheseptumHeshowedmehowtowriteontheundersideofbirchbarkwithablacksprucetwigwhichishardandtoughandcanbebroughttoapointTheIndianwanderedoffintothewoodsashortdistancejustbeforenightandcoming back said Me found great treasuremdashfifty sixty dollars worth

WhatsthatweaskedSteeltrapsunderalogthirtyorfortyIdidntcountem I guess Indian workmdashworth three dollars apiece It was a singularcoincidence that he should have chanced to walk to and look under thatparticularloginthattracklessforestI saw chivin and chub in the stream when washing my hands but mycompaniontriedinvaintocatchthemIalsoheardthesoundofbullfrogsfromaswampontheoppositeside thinkingatfirst that theyweremooseaduckpaddled swiftly by and sitting in that dusky wilderness under that darkmountainbythebrightriverwhichwasfullofreflectedlightstillIheardthewoodthrushsingas ifnohighercivilizationcouldbeattainedBythis timethenightwasuponusYou commonlymake your camp just at sundown and are collectingwoodgetting your supper or pitching your tent while the shades of night aregathering around and adding to the already dense gloom of the forest Youhave no time to explore or look around you before it is dark You maypenetratehalfadozenrodsfartherintothattwilightwildernessaftersomedrybark to kindle your fire with and wonder what mysteries lie hidden stilldeeperinitsayattheendofalongdayswalkoryoumayrundowntotheshoreforadipperofwaterandgetaclearerviewforashortdistanceupordownthestreamandwhileyoustandthereseeafishleaporduckalightintheriverorhearawoodthrushorrobinsinginthewoodsThatisasifyouhadbeen to townorcivilizedpartsBut there isnosaunteringoff tosee thecountryandtenorfifteenrodsseemsagreatwayfromyourcompanionsandyoucomebackwiththeairofamuch-traveledmanasfromalongjourneywithadventurestorelatethoughyoumayhaveheardthecracklingofthefireall thewhilemdashand at a hundred rods youmight be lost past recovery andhavetocampoutItisallmossyandmooseyInsomeofthosedensefirandsprucewoods there is hardly room for the smoke to go up The trees are astanding night and every fir and sprucewhich you fell is a plume pluckedfromnightsravenwingThenatnightthegeneralstillnessismoreimpressivethananysoundbutoccasionallyyouhearthenoteofanowlfartherornearerin the woods and if near a lake the semihuman cry of the loons at theirunearthlyrevelsTo-nighttheIndianlaybetweenthefireandhisstretchedmoose-hidetoavoidthemosquitoesIndeedhealsomadeasmallsmokyfireofdampleavesathisheadandhisfeetandthenasusualrolleduphisheadinhisblanketWewithourveilsandourwashweretolerablycomfortablebutitwouldbedifficulttopursueanysedentaryoccupationinthewoodsatthisseasonyoucannotseetoreadmuchbythelightofafirethroughaveilintheeveningnorhandlepencilandpaperwellwithglovesoranointedfingersFRIDAYJuly31

TheIndiansaidYouandIkillmooselastnightthereforeuseembestwoodAlways use hard wood to cook moose-meat His best wood was rockmapleHecastthemooseslipintothefiretoburnthehairoffandthenrolledit upwith themeat to carry alongObserving thatwewere sitting down tobreakfastwithoutanyporkhesaidwithaverygrave lookMewantsomefatsohewastoldthathemighthaveasmuchashewouldfryWehadsmoothbutswiftwaterforaconsiderabledistancewhereweglidedrapidly along scaring up ducks and kingfishers But as usual our smoothprogresserelongcametoanendandwewereobligedtocarrycanoeandallabouthalfamiledowntherightbankaroundsomerapidsorfallsItrequiredsharpeyessometimesto tellwhichsidewasthecarrybeforeyouwentoverthe falls but Polis never failed to land us rightly The raspberries wereparticularly abundant and largehere and all handswent to eating them theIndianremarkingontheirsizeOftenonbarerockycarriesthetrailwassoindistinctthatIrepeatedlylostitbutwhenIwalkedbehindhimIobservedthathecouldkeepitalmostlikeahoundandrarelyhesitatedorifhepausedamomentonabarerockhiseyeimmediatelydetectedsomesignwhichwouldhaveescapedmeFrequentlywefoundnopathatallattheseplacesandweretohimunaccountablydelayedHewouldonlysayitwasverstrangeWehadheardof aGrandFall on this stream and thought that each fallwecametomustbeitbutafterchristeningseveralinsuccessionwiththisnamewe gave up the search There were more Grand or Petty Falls than I canrememberIcannottellhowmanytimeswehadtowalkonaccountoffallsorrapidsWewereexpectingall thewhile that theriverwouldtakeafinal leapandget tosmooth water but there was no improvement this forenoon However thecarrieswereanagreeablevarietySosurelyaswesteppedoutofthecanoeandstretched our legs we found ourselves in a blueberry and raspberry gardeneachsideofourrockytrailaroundthefallsbeinglinedwithoneorbothTherewasnotacarryonthemainEastBranchwherewedidnotfindanabundanceofboththeseberriesfortheseweretherockiestplacesandpartiallyclearedsuchastheseplantspreferandtherehadbeennonetogatherthefinestbeforeusIn our three journeys over the carriesmdashforwewere obliged to go over thegroundthreetimeswheneverthecanoewastakenoutmdashwedidfulljusticetotheberriesandtheywerejustwhatwewantedtocorrecttheeffectofourhardbread and pork diet Another name for making a portage would have beengoinga-berryingWealsofoundafewamelanchierorserviceberriesthoughmostwere abortive but they held on rathermore generally than they do inConcordTheIndiancalledthempemoymenukandsaidthattheyboremuch

fruit in some places He sometimes also ate the northern wild red cherriessayingthattheyweregoodmedicinebuttheywerescarcelyedibleWebathedanddinedatthefootofoneofthesecarriesItwastheIndianwhocommonlyremindedus that itwasdinner-time sometimesevenby turning theprow totheshoreHeoncemadean indirectbut lengthyapologybysaying thatwemight think it strange but that one who worked hard all day was veryparticulartohavehisdinneringoodseasonAtthemostconsiderablefallonthis streamwhen Iwaswalking over the carry close behind the Indian heobserveda trackon the rockwhichwasbut slightlycoveredwith soil andstoopingmutteredcaribouWhenwe returnedheobservedamuch largertrack near the same place where some animals foot had sunk into a smallhollowin therockpartly filledwithgrassandearthandheexclaimedwithsurprise What that Well what is it I asked Stooping and laying hishand in it he answeredwith amysterious air and in a halfwhisper Devil[thatisIndianDevilorcougar]mdashledgesaboutheremdashverybadanimalmdashpullemrocksall topiecesHowlongsince itwasmadeIaskedTo-dayoryesterdaysaidheButwhenIaskedhimafterwardifhewassureitwasthedevils track he said he did not know I had been told that the scream of acougar was heard about Ktaadn recently and we were not far from thatmountainWespentatleasthalfthetimeinwalkingto-dayandthewalkingwasasbadasusualfortheIndianbeingalonecommonlyrandownfarbelowthefootofthecarriesbeforehewaitedforusThecarry-pathsthemselvesweremorethanusually indistinctoften the routebeing revealedonlyby thecountlesssmallholes in the fallen timbermade by the tacks in the drivers boots orwherethere was a slight trail we did not find it It was a tangled and perplexingthicketthroughwhichwestumbledandthreadedourwayandwhenwehadfinishedamileofitourstarting-pointseemedfarawayWeweregladthatwehadnotgottowalktoBangoralongthebanksofthisriverwhichwouldbeajourneyofmorethanahundredmilesThinkofthedensenessoftheforestthefallentreesandrocksthewindingsoftheriverthestreamsemptyinginandthefrequentswampstobecrossedItmadeyoushudderYettheIndianfromtime to time pointed out to uswhere he had thus crept along day after daywhenhewasaboyoftenandinastarvingconditionHehadbeenhuntingfarnorthofthiswithtwogrownIndiansThewintercameonunexpectedlyearlyand the ice compelled them to leave their canoe at Grand Lake and walkdownthebankTheyshoulderedtheirfursandstartedforOldtownThesnowwasnotdeepenoughforsnowshoesortocovertheinequalitiesofthegroundPoliswas soon tooweak to carry anyburden but hemanaged to catchoneotterThiswasthemosttheyallhadtoeatonthisjourneyandherememberedhowgoodtheyellowlilyrootsweremadeintoasoupwiththeotteroilHeshared this food equallywith the other two but being so small he suffered

much more than they He waded through the Mattawamkeag at its mouthwhenitwasfreezingcoldandcameuptohischinandhebeingveryweakandemaciatedexpectedtobesweptawayThefirsthousewhichtheyreachedwasatLincolnandthereaboutstheymetawhiteteamsterwithsupplieswhoseeingtheirconditiongavethemasmuchofhisloadastheycouldeatForsixmonthsaftergettinghomehewasvery lowanddidnotexpect to liveandwasperhapsalwaystheworseforitWecouldnotfindmuchmorethanhalfofthisdaysjourneyonourmaps(theMap of the Public Lands of Maine and Massachusetts and ColtonsRailroad and Township Map of Maine which copies the former) By themapstherewasnotmorethanfifteenmilesbetweencampsattheoutsideandyetwehadbeenbusilyprogressingalldayandmuchofthetimeveryrapidlyForsevenoreightmilesbelowthatsuccessionofGrandfallstheaspectofthebanksaswellasthecharacterofthestreamwaschangedAfterpassingatributary from the northeast perhaps Bowlin Stream we had good swiftsmooth water with a regular slope such as I have described Low grassybanksandmuddyshoresbeganManyelmsaswellasmaplesandmoreashtreesoverhungthestreamandsupplantedthespruceMy lily roots having been lost when the canoe was taken out at a carry IlandedlateintheafternoonatalowandgrassyplaceamidmaplestogathermoreItwasslowworkgrubbingthemupamidthesandandthemosquitoeswereallthewhilefeastingonmeMosquitoesblackfliesetcpursuedusinmid-channelandweweregladsometimestogetintoviolentrapidsforthenweescapedthemAred-headedwoodpeckerflewacrosstheriverandtheIndianremarkedthatitwasgoodtoeatAsweglidedswiftlydowntheinclinedplaneoftheriveragreatcatowllauncheditselfawayfromastumponthebankandflewheavilyacross the streamand the Indian asusual imitated itsnoteSoon the samebirdflewback infrontofusandweafterwardspassed itperchedona treeSoon afterward awhite-headed eagle sailed down the stream before usWedrovehimseveralmileswhilewewerelookingforagoodplacetocampforweexpectedtobeovertakenbyashowermdashandstillwecoulddistinguishhimbyhiswhitetailsailingawayfromtimetotimefromsometreebytheshorestillfartherdownthestreamSomeshecorwaysbeingsurprisedbyusapartofthem dived andwe passed directly over them and could trace their coursehereandtherebyabubbleonthesurfacebutwedidnotseethemcomeupPolis detectedonce or twicewhat he called a tow road an indistinct pathleadingintotheforestInthemeanwhilewepassedthemouthoftheSebooison our leftThis did not look so large as our streamwhichwas indeed themainone Itwassome timebeforewe foundacamping-place for theshorewaseithertoograssyandmuddywheremosquitoesaboundedortoosteepa

hillside The Indian said that there were but few mosquitoes on a steephillsideWeexaminedagoodplacewheresomebodyhadcampedalongtimebutitseemedpitifultooccupyanoldsitewheretherewassomuchroomtochoosesowecontinuedonWeatlengthfoundaplacetoourmindsonthewest bank about amile below themouth of the Seboois where in a verydensesprucewoodaboveagravellyshorethereseemedtobebutfewinsectsThetreesweresothickthatwewereobligedtoclearaspacetobuildourfireandliedowninandtheyoungsprucetreesthatwereleftwerelikethewallofanapartment risingaroundusWewereobliged topullourselvesupasteepbank to get there But the place which you have selected for your campthough never so rough and grim begins at once to have its attractions andbecomesaverycentreofcivilization toyouHome ishomebe itneversohomelyItturnedoutthatthemosquitoesweremorenumerousherethanwehadfoundthem before and the Indian complained a good deal though he lay as thenightbeforebetweenthreefiresandhisstretchedhideAsIsatonastumpbythe firewithaveilandgloveson trying to readheobservedImakeyoucandleandinaminutehetookapieceofbirchbarkabouttwoincheswideandrolled ithard likeanallumettefifteen inches long lit itandfixed itbytheotherendhorizontallyinasplitstickthreefeethighstuckitinthegroundturning the blazing end to thewind and tellingme to snuff it from time totimeItansweredthepurposeofacandleprettywellI noticed as I had done before that therewas a lull among themosquitoesabout midnight and that they began again in the morning Nature is thusmercifulButapparently theyneed restaswellasweFew ifanycreaturesareequallyactiveallnightAssoonasitwaslightIsawthroughmyveilthattheinsideofthetentaboutourheadswasquiteblackenedwithmyriadseachoneof theirwingswhenflyingashasbeencalculatedvibratingsomethreethousand times in aminute and their combined humwas almost as bad toendureastheirstingsIhadanuncomfortablenightonthisaccountthoughIamnotsurethatonesucceededinhisattempttostingmeWedidnotsuffersomuch from insects on this excursion as the statements of some who haveexploredthesewoodsinmidsummerledustoanticipateYetIhavenodoubtthatat someseasonsand insomeplaces theyareamuchmoreseriouspestTheJesuitHieromeLalemantofQuebecreportingthedeathofFatherReniMenardwhowasabandonedlosthiswayanddiedinthewoodsamongtheOntarios near Lake Superior in 1661 dwells chiefly on his probablesufferings from theattacksofmosquitoeswhen tooweak todefendhimselfadding that there was a frightful number of them in those parts and soinsupportablesayshethatthethreeFrenchmenwhohavemadethatvoyageaffirmthattherewasnoothermeansofdefendingonesselfbuttorunalwayswithoutstoppinganditwasevennecessaryfortwoofthemtobeemployedin

drivingoffthesecreatureswhilethethirdwantedtodrinkotherwisehecouldnothavedoneitIhavenodoubtthatthiswassaidingoodfaithAugust1I caught two or three large red chivin (Leuciscus pulchellus) early thismorningwithintwentyfeetofthecampwhichaddedtothemoose-tonguethathadbeenleftinthekettleboilingovernightandtoourotherstoresmadea sumptuous breakfast The Indian made us some hemlock tea instead ofcoffeeandwewerenotobligedtogoasfarasChinaforitindeednotquiteso far as for the fish This was tolerable though he said it was not strongenoughItwas interestingtoseesosimpleadishasakettleofwaterwithahandfulofgreenhemlocksprigs in itboilingover thehuge fire in theopenairtheleavesfastlosingtheirlivelygreencolorandknowthatitwasforourbreakfastWeweregladtoembarkoncemoreandleavesomeofthemosquitoesbehindWehadpassedtheWassataquoikwithoutperceivingitThisaccordingtotheIndianisthenameofthemainEastBranchitselfandnotproperlyappliedtothissmalltributaryaloneasonthemapsWefoundthatwehadcampedaboutamileaboveHuntswhichisontheeastbankandisthelasthouseforthosewhoascendKtaadnonthissideWehadexpectedtoascenditfromthispointbutmycompanionwasobligedtogiveup this on account of sore feetThe Indian however suggested thatperhapshemightgetapairofmoccasinsatthisplaceandthathecouldwalkveryeasilyinthemwithouthurtinghisfeetwearingseveralpairsofstockingsandhesaidbesidethattheyweresoporousthatwhenyouhadtakeninwaterit all drained out again in a littlewhileWe stopped to get some sugar butfoundthatthefamilyhadmovedawayandthehousewasunoccupiedexcepttemporarily by somemenwhowere getting the hay They toldme that theroadtoKtaadnlefttherivereightmilesabovealsothatperhapswecouldgetsomesugaratFisksfourteenmilesbelowIdonotrememberthatwesawthemountain at all from the river I noticed a seine here stretchedon the bankwhichprobablyhadbeenused tocatchsalmon Justbelow thison thewestbank we saw a moose-hide stretched and with it a bearskin which wascomparativelyvery small Iwas themore interested in this sight because itwasnearhere that a townsmanofours thenquite a lad andalonekilledalargebearsomeyearsagoTheIndiansaidthattheybelongedtoJoeAitteonmylastguidebuthowhetoldIdonotknowHewasprobablyhuntingnearandhadleftthemforthedayFindingthatweweregoingdirectlytoOldtownhe regretted that he had not taken more of the moose-meat to his familysayingthatinashorttimebydryingithecouldhavemadeitsolightastohave brought away the greater part leaving the bones We once or twiceinquiredafterthelipwhichisafamoustidbitbuthesaidThatgoOldtown

formyoldwomandontgetiteverydayMaples grewmore andmore numerous Itwas lowering and rained a littleduring the forenoon and as we expected a wetting we stopped early anddinedon theeast sideofa smallexpansionof the river justabovewhatareprobably calledWhetstone Falls about a dozen miles below Hunts Therewere pretty fresh moose-tracks by the waterside There were singular longridges hereabouts called horsebacks covered with fernsMy companionhavinglosthispipeaskedtheIndianifhecouldnotmakehimoneOhyersaid he and in aminute rolled up one of birch bark telling him towet thebowlfromtimetotimeHerealsohelefthisgazetteonatreeWecarriedroundthefallsjustbelowonthewestsideTherockswereontheiredgesandverysharpThedistancewasaboutthreefourthsofamileWhenwehadcarriedoverone load the Indianreturnedby theshoreandIby thepath and though Imadenoparticular haste Iwasnevertheless surprised tofindhimat theother endas soonas I Itwas remarkablehoweasilyhegotalongover theworstgroundHe said tome I takecanoeandyou take therestsupposeyoucankeepalongwithmeIthoughtthathemeantthatwhileherandowntherapidsIshouldkeepalongtheshoreandbereadytoassisthimfromtimetotimeasIhaddonebeforebutasthewalkingwouldbeverybadIansweredIsupposeyouwillgotoofastformebutIwilltryButIwas to go by the path he said This I thoughtwould not help thematter IshouldhavesofartogotogettotheriversidewhenhewantedmeButneitherwasthiswhathemeantHewasproposingaraceoverthecarryandaskedmeifIthoughtIcouldkeepalongwithhimbythesamepathaddingthatImustbeprettysmart todo itAshis load thecanoewouldbemuch theheaviestandbulkiestthoughthesimplestIthoughtthatIoughttobeabletodoitandsaidthatIwouldtrySoIproceededtogatherupthegunaxepaddlekettlefrying-panplatesdipperscarpetsetcetcandwhileIwasthusengagedhethrewmehiscowhidebootsWhatare thesein thebargainIaskedOhyer said he but before I could make a bundle of my load I saw himdisappearingover a hillwith the canoeonhis head so hastily scraping thevariousarticlestogetherIstartedontherunandimmediatelywentbyhiminthebushesbutIhadnosoonerlefthimoutofsightinarockyhollowthanthegreasy plates dippers etc took to themselves wings and while I wasemployedingatheringthemupagainhewentbymebuthastilypressingthesootykettletomysideIstartedoncemoreandsoonpassinghimagainIsawhimnomoreonthecarryIdonotmentionthisasanythingofafeatforitwasbutpoorrunningonmypartandhewasobligedtomovewithgreatcautionfor fear of breaking his canoe as well as his neck When he made hisappearancepuffingandpantinglikemyselfinanswertomyinquirieswherehehadbeenhesaidRocks(locks)cutemfeetandlaughingaddedOhmelovetoplaysometimesHesaidthatheandhiscompanionswhenthey

cametocarriesseveralmileslongusedtotrywhowouldgetoverfirsteachperhapswithacanoeonhisheadIborethesignofthekettleonmybrownlinensackfortherestofthevoyageWemade a second carry on the west side around some falls about a milebelowthisOnthemainlandwereNorwaypinesindicatinganewgeologicalformationanditwassuchadryandsandysoilaswehadnotnoticedbeforeAsweapproachedthemouthoftheEastBranchwepassedtwoorthreehutsthe first sign of civilization afterHunts thoughwe sawno road as yetweheardacow-bellandevensawaninfanthelduptoasmallsquarewindowtoseeuspassbutapparentlytheinfantandthemotherthathelditweretheonlyinhabitantsthenathomeforseveralmilesThistookthewindoutofoursailsremindingus thatwewere travelerssurelywhile itwasanativeof thesoiland had the advantage of us Conversation flagged I would only hear theIndian perhaps ask my companion You load my pipe He said that hesmokedalderbarkformedicineOnenteringtheWestBranchatNicketowitappearedmuch larger than the East Polis remarked that the formerwas allgone and lost now that it was all smooth water hence to Oldtown and hethrew away his polewhichwas cut on theUmbazookskus Thinking of therapidshesaidonceor twice thatyouwouldntcatchhim togoEastBranchagainbuthedidnotbyanymeansmeanallthathesaidThingsarequitechangedsinceIwashereelevenyearsagoWheretherewerebutoneortwohousesInowfoundquiteavillagewithsawmillsandastore(thelatterwaslockedbutitscontentsweresomuchthemoresafelystored)and there was a stage-road to Mattawamkeag and the rumor of a stageIndeedasteamerhadascendedthusfaroncewhenthewaterwasveryhighButwewerenotabletogetanysugaronlyabettershingletoleanourbacksagainstWecampedabout twomilesbelowNicketowon the south sideof theWestBranchcoveringwithfresh twigs thewitheredbedofaformer travelerandfeelingthatwewerenowinasettledcountryespeciallywhenintheeveningweheardanoxsneezeinitswildpastureacrosstheriverWhereveryoulandalongthefrequentedpartoftheriveryouhavenotfartogotofindthesesitesoftemporaryinnsthewitheredbedofflattenedtwigsthecharredsticksandperhapsthetent-polesAndnotlongsincesimilarbedswerespreadalongtheConnecticut the Hudson and the Delaware and longer still ago by theThames and Seine and they now help to make the soil where private andpublicgardensmansionsandpalacesareWecouldnotgetfir twigsforourbed here and the spruce was harsh in comparison having more twig inproportiontoitsleafbutweimproveditsomewhatwithhemlockTheIndianremarked as before Must have hardwood to cookmoose-meat as if thatwere a maxim and proceeded to get it My companion cooked some in

Californiafashionwindingalongstringofthemeatroundastickandslowlyturning it in his hand before the fire Itwas very goodBut the Indian notapprovingofthemodeorbecausehewasnotallowedtocookithisownwaywouldnottasteitAftertheregularsupperweattemptedtomakealilysoupofthebulbswhichIhadbroughtalongforIwishedtolearnallIcouldbeforeIgot out of thewoods Following the Indians directions for he began to besickIwashedthebulbscarefullymincedsomemoose-meatandsomeporksaltedandboiledall togetherbutwehadnotpatience to try theexperimentfairlyforhesaiditmustbeboiledtilltherootswerecompletelysoftenedsoasto thicken thesoup likeflourbut thoughweleft itonallnightwefounditdried to thekettle in themorning andnotyetboiled to a flourPerhaps therootswerenotripeenoughfortheycommonlygathertheminthefallAsitwasitwaspalatableenoughbutitremindedmeoftheIrishmanslimestonebrothTheother ingredientswereenoughaloneTheIndiansnamefor thesebulbswas Sheepnoc I stirred the soup by accidentwith a stripedmaple ormoose-woodstickwhichIhadpeeledandheremarkedthatitsbarkwasanemeticHe prepared to camp as usual between his moose-hide and the fire but itbeginningtorainsuddenlyhetookrefugeunderthetentwithusandgaveusa songbefore falling asleep It rainedhard in thenight and spoiled anotherboxofmatchesforuswhichtheIndianhadleftoutforhewasverycarelessbut asusualwehad somuch thebetternight for the rain since itkept themosquitoesdownSUNDAYAugust2Was a cloudy and unpromisingmorningOne of us observed to the IndianYoudidnotstretchyourmoose-hidelastnightdidyouMrPolisWhereatherepliedinatoneofsurprisethoughperhapsnotofillhumorWhatyouaskmethatquestionforSupposeIstretchemyouseeemMaybeyourwaytalkingmaybeallrightnoIndianwayIhadobservedthathedidnotwishtoanswerthesamequestionmorethanonceandwasoftensilentwhenitwasput again for the sake of certainty as if he were moody Not that he wasincommunicativeforhefrequentlycommencedalong-windednarrativeofhisown accordmdashrepeated at length the tradition of some old battle or somepassage in the recenthistoryofhis tribe inwhichhehadactedaprominentpartfromtimetotimedrawingalongbreathandresumingthethreadofhistalewiththetruestory-tellersleisurelinessperhapsaftershootingarapidmdashprefacingwithWe-e-llby-byetcashepaddledalongEspeciallyafterthedaysworkwasoverandhehadputhimselfinpostureforthenighthewouldbeunexpectedly sociable exhibit even thebonhommieof aFrenchman andwewouldfallasleepbeforehegotthroughhisperiodsNicketowiscalledelevenmilesfromMattawamkeagbytheriverOurcamp

wasthereforeaboutninemilesfromthelatterplaceTheIndianwasquitesick thismorningwith thecolic I thought thathewastheworseforthemoose-meathehadeatenWereachedtheMattawamkeagathalfpasteightinthemorninginthemidstofadrizzlingrainandafterbuyingsomesugarsetoutagainTheIndiangrowingmuchworsewestopped in thenorthpartofLincoln toget some brandy for him but failing in this an apothecary recommendedBrandreths pills which he refused to take because he was not acquaintedwiththemHesaidtomeMedoctormdashfirststudymycasefindoutwhatailemmdashthen I know what to take We dropped down a little farther andstoppedatmid-forenoononanislandandmadehimadipperofteaHeretoowedinedanddidsomewashingandbotanizingwhilehelayonthebankInthe afternoon we went on a little farther though the Indian was no betterBurntibusashecalleditwasalongsmoothlake-likereachbelowtheFiveIslandsHesaidthatheownedahundredacressomewhereupthiswayAsathunder-showerappearedtobecomingupwestoppedoppositeabarnonthewest bank in Chester about a mile above Lincoln Here at last we wereobligedtospendtherestofthedayandnightonaccountofourpatientwhosesicknessdidnotabateHelaygroaningunderhiscanoeonthebanklookingverywoebegoneyetitwasonlyacommoncaseofcolicYouwouldnothavethoughtifyouhadseenhimlyingaboutthusthathewastheproprietorofsomany acres in that neighborhood was worth six thousand dollars and hadbeentoWashingtonItseemedtomethatliketheIrishhemadeagreateradoabouthissicknessthanaYankeedoesandwasmorealarmedabouthimselfWe talked somewhatof leavinghimwithhispeople inLincolnmdashfor that isone of their homesmdashand taking the stage the next day but he objected onaccount of the expense saying Supposemewell inmorning you and I goOldtownbynoonAswewere taking our tea at twilightwhile he lay groaning still under hiscanoehavingat length foundout whatailhimheaskedme togethimadipperofwaterTakingthedipperinonehandheseizedhispowder-hornwiththeotherandpouringintoitachargeortwoofpowderstirreditupwithhisfingeranddrankitoffThiswasallhetookto-dayafterbreakfastbesidehisteaTosavethetroubleofpitchingourtentwhenwehadsecuredourstoresfromwanderingdogswecampedinthesolitaryhalf-openbarnnearthebankwiththe permission of the owner lying on new-mown hay four feet deep Thefragranceofthehayinwhichmanyfernsetcweremingledwasagreeablethough itwas quite alivewith grasshopperswhich you could hear crawlingthroughitThisservedtograduateourapproachtohousesandfeatherbedsInthenightsomelargebirdprobablyanowlflittedthroughoverourheadsand

very early in themorningwewere awakened by the twittering of swallowswhichhadtheirneststhereMONDAYAugust3We started early before breakfast the Indian being considerably better andsoonglidedbyLincolnandafteranotherlongandhandsomelake-likereachwestoppedtobreakfastonthewestshoretwoorthreemilesbelowthistownWe frequently passed Indian islands with their small houses on them TheGovernorAitteonlivesinoneoftheminLincolnThePenobscotIndiansseemtobemoresocialeventhanthewhitesEverandanoninthedeepestwildernessofMaineyoucometotheloghutofaYankeeor Canada settler but a Penobscot never takes up his residence in such asolitudeTheyarenotevenscatteredaboutontheirislandsinthePenobscotwhichareallwithinthesettlementsbutgatheredtogetherontwoorthreemdashthoughnotalwayson thebest soilmdashevidently for thesakeofsociety I sawoneor twohousesnotnowusedby thembecauseasour IndianPolis saidtheyweretoosolitaryThe small river emptying in atLincoln is theMatanancookwhich alsowenoticedwasthenameofasteamermooredthereSowepaddledandfloatedalonglookingintothemouthsofriversWhenpassingtheMohawkRipsorastheIndiancalledthemMohoglipsfourorfivemilesbelowLincolnhetoldusatlengththestoryofafightbetweenhistribeandtheMohawksthereancientlymdashhowthelatterwereovercomebystratagemthePenobscotsusingconcealedknivesmdashbuttheycouldnotforalongtimekilltheMohawkchiefwho was a very large and strong man though he was attacked by severalcanoesatoncewhenswimmingaloneintheriverFromtimetotimewemetIndiansintheircanoesgoingupriverOurmandidnot commonly approach them but exchanged a few words with them at adistanceinhistongueThesewerethefirstIndianswehadmetsinceleavingtheUmbazookskusAt Piscataquis Falls just above the river of that namewewalked over thewoodenrailroadontheeasternshoreaboutoneandahalfmileslongwhiletheIndianglideddowntherapidsThesteamerfromOldtownstopshereandpassengerstakeanewboatabovePiscataquiswhosemouthweherepassedmeans branch It is obstructed by falls at itsmouth but can be navigatedwith batteaux or canoes above through a settled country even to theneighborhoodofMooseheadLakeandwehad thoughtat firstofgoing thatwayWewerenotobligedtogetoutofthecanoeafterthisonaccountoffallsorrapidsnorindeedwasitquitenecessaryhereWetooklessnoticeofthesceneryto-daybecausewewereinquiteasettledcountryTheriverbecamebroadandsluggishandwesawablueheronwingingitswayslowlydownthe

streambeforeusWe passed the Passadumkeag River on our left and saw the blue Olamonmountains at a distance in the southeast Hereabouts our Indian told us atlength the story of their contention with the priest respecting schools Hethought a great deal of education and had recommended it to his tribeHisargument in its favor was that if you had been to college and learnt tocalculateyoucouldkeepempropertymdashnootherwayHesaidthathisboywasthebestscholarintheschoolatOldtowntowhichhewentwithwhitesHehimselfisaProtestantandgoestochurchregularlyatOldtownAccordingto his account a good many of his tribe are Protestants and many of theCatholics also are in favor of schools Some years ago they had aschoolmaster aProtestantwhom they likedverywellThepriest cameandsaidthattheymustsendhimawayandfinallyhehadsuchinfluencetellingthemthattheywouldgotothebadplaceatlastiftheyretainedhimthattheysent him away The school party though numerous were about giving upBishopFenwickcamefromBostonandusedhis influenceagainst themButourIndiantoldhissidethattheymustnotgiveupmustholdontheywerethestrongestIftheygaveupthentheywouldhavenopartyButtheyansweredthat it was no use priest too strong wed better give up At length hepersuadedthemtomakeastandThepriestwasgoingforasigntocutdowntheliberty-poleSoPolisandhispartyhadasecretmeetingaboutithegotreadyfifteenortwentystoutyoungmen stript em naked and painted em like old times and told them thatwhenthepriestandhispartywenttocutdowntheliberty-poletheyweretorush up take hold of it and prevent them and he assured them that therewouldbenowar only anoisemdashnowarwherepriest isHekepthismenconcealed in a house near by andwhen the priests partywere about to cutdowntheliberty-polethefallofwhichwouldhavebeenadeath-blowtotheschoolpartyhegaveasignalandhisyoungmenrushedoutandseized thepoleTherewasagreatuproarandtheywereaboutcomingtoblowsbutthepriest interfered saying Nowar nowar and so the pole stands and theschoolgoesonstillWethoughtthatitshowedagooddealoftactinhimtoseizethisoccasionandtakehisstandonitprovinghowwellheunderstoodthosewithwhomhehadtodealTheOlamonRivercomesinfromtheeastinGreenbushafewmilesbelowthePassadumkeag When we asked the meaning of this name the Indian saidtherewasanislandoppositeitsmouthwhichwascalledOlarmonthatinoldtimeswhenvisitorswerecomingtoOldtowntheyusedtostoptheretodressand fixupor paint themselves What is thatwhich ladiesusedhe askedRougeRedVermilionYerhesaidthat is larmonakindofclayorred

paintwhichtheyusedtogethereWedecidedthatwetoowouldstopatthisislandandfixupourinnermanatleastbydiningItwasa large islandwithanabundanceofhempnettlebut IdidnotnoticeanykindofredpaintthereTheOlamonRiveratitsmouthatleastisadeadstreamTherewasanotherlargeislandinthatneighborhoodwhichtheIndiancalledSoogle(ieSugar)IslandAboutadozenmilesbeforereachingOldtownheinquiredHowyoulikeemyourpilotButwepostponedananswertillwehadgotquitebackagainTheSunkhaze another shortdead streamcomes in from theeast twomilesaboveOldtownThereissaidtobesomeofthebestdeergroundinMaineonthisstreamAskingthemeaningofthisnametheIndiansaidSupposeyouaregoingdownPenobscotjustlikeweandyouseeacanoecomeoutofbankandgoalongbeforeyoubutyounoseeemstreamThatisSunkhazeHehadpreviously complimentedmeonmypaddling saying that I paddledjust likeanybodygivingmeanIndiannamewhichmeantgreatpaddlerWhen off this stream he said to me who sat in the bows Me teach youpaddleSo turning toward theshorehegotout cameforwardandplacedmyhandsashewishedHeplacedoneofthemquiteoutsidetheboatandtheotherparallelwiththefirstgraspingthepaddleneartheendnotovertheflatextremityandtoldmetoslideitbackandforthonthesideofthecanoeThisIfoundwasagreatimprovementwhichIhadnotthoughtofsavingmethelaborofliftingthepaddleeachtimeandIwonderedthathehadnotsuggesteditbeforeItistruebeforeourbaggagewasreducedwehadbeenobligedtositwith our legs drawn up and our knees above the side of the canoe whichwouldhavepreventedourpaddlingthusorperhapshewasafraidofwearingouthiscanoebyconstantfrictiononthesideItoldhimthatIhadbeenaccustomedtositinthesternandliftingmypaddleateachstrokegiveitatwistinordertosteertheboatonlygettingapryonthesideeachtimeandIstillpaddledpartlyasifinthesternHethenwantedtoseemepaddleinthesternSochangingpaddlesforhehadthelongerandbetteroneandturningendforendhesittingflatonthebottomandIonthecrossbarhebegantopaddleveryhardtryingtoturnthecanoelookingoverhisshoulderandlaughingbutfindingitinvainherelaxedhiseffortsthoughwestillspedalongamileortwoveryswiftlyHesaidthathehadnofaulttofindwithmypaddling in the stern but I complained that he did not paddleaccordingtohisowndirectionsinthebowsOpposite the Sunkhaze is themain boom of the Penobscot where the logsfromfaruptheriverarecollectedandassortedAswe drew near toOldtown I asked Polis if hewas not glad to get home

again but therewasno relenting to hiswildness andhe said ItmakesnodifferencetomewhereIamSuchistheIndianspretensealwaysWeapproachedtheIndianIslandthroughthenarrowstraitcalledCookHesaidIxpectwetakeinsomewaterthereriversohighmdashneverseeitsohighatthisseasonVeryroughwatertherebutshortswampsteamboatonceDontyou paddle till I tell you then you paddle right along Itwas a very shortrapidWhen we were in the midst of it he shouted paddle and we shotthroughwithouttakinginadropSoon after the Indian houses came in sight but I could not at first tellmycompanionwhichoftwoorthreelargewhiteoneswasourguidesHesaiditwastheonewithblindsWelandedoppositehisdoorataboutfourintheafternoonhavingcomesomeforty miles this day From the Piscataquis we had come remarkably andunaccountablyquickprobablyasfastasthestageortheboatthoughthelastdozenmileswasdeadwaterPoliswanted to sell ushis canoe said itwould last sevenor eightyears orwithcareperhapstenbutwewerenotreadytobuyitWe stopped for anhour at his housewheremycompanion shavedwithhisrazorwhichhepronouncedinverygoodconditionMrsPworeahatandhadasilverbroochonherbreastbutshewasnotintroducedtousThehousewasroomyandneatAlargenewmapofOldtownandtheIndianIslandhungonthe wall and a clock opposite to it Wishing to know when the cars leftOldtownPolisssonbroughtoneofthelastBangorpaperswhichIsawwasdirectedtoJosephPolisfromtheofficeThiswas the last thatIsawofJoePolisWetookthe last trainandreachedBangorthatnight

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greater part of them in this immediate neighborhood and they sawed twohundredmillionsoffeetofboardsannuallyTothisistobeaddedthelumberoftheKennebecAndroscogginSacoPassamaquoddyandotherstreamsNowonder that we hear so often of vessels which are becalmed off our coastbeingsurroundedaweekatatimebyfloatinglumberfromtheMainewoodsThemissionofmenthereseemstobelikesomanybusydemonstodrivetheforestalloutofthecountryfromeverysolitarybeaverswampandmountain-sideassoonaspossibleAtOldtownwewalkedintoabatteau-manufactoryThemakingofbatteauxisquite a business here for the supply of the Penobscot RiverWe examinedsomeon the stocksThey are light and shapely vessels calculated for rapidand rockystreamsand tobecarriedover longportagesonmens shouldersfromtwentytothirtyfeetlongandonlyfourorfourandahalfwidesharpatbothendslikeacanoethoughbroadestforwardonthebottomandreachingsevenor eight feetover thewater inorder that theymay slipover rocksasgently as possible They are made very slight only two boards to a sidecommonlysecuredtoafewlightmapleorotherhard-woodkneesbutinwardareoftheclearestandwidestwhitepinestuffofwhichthereisagreatwasteon account of their form for thebottom is left perfectly flat not only fromside to side but from end to end Sometimes they become hogging evenafterlonguseandtheboatmenthenturnthemoverandstraightenthembyaweightateachendTheytoldusthatoneworeoutintwoyearsorofteninasingle tripontherocksandsoldforfromfourteentosixteendollarsTherewassomethingrefreshingandwildlymusicaltomyearsintheverynameofthewhitemanscanoeremindingmeofCharlevoixandCanadianVoyageursThebatteauisasortofmongrelbetweenthecanoeandtheboatafur-tradersboatTheferryheretookuspasttheIndianislandAswelefttheshoreIobservedashort shabby washerwoman-looking Indianmdashthey commonly have thewoebegonelookofthegirlthatcriedforspiltmilkmdashjustfromupriverlandon the Oldtown side near a grocery and drawing up his canoe take out abundleofskinsinonehandandanemptykegorhalf-barrelintheotherandscrambleupthebankwiththemThispicturewilldotoputbeforetheIndianshistorythatisthehistoryofhisextinctionIn1837therewerethreehundredandsixty-twosoulsleftofthistribeTheislandseemeddesertedto-dayyetIobservedsomenewhousesamongtheweather-stainedonesasifthetribehadstill a design upon life but generally they have a very shabby forlorn andcheerlesslookbeingallbacksideandwoodshednothomesteadsevenIndianhomesteads but instead of home or abroad-steads for their life is domi autmilitiaeligathomeoratwarornowrathervenatusthatisahuntingandmostof the latter The church is the only trim-looking building but that is notAbenaki thatwasRomes doingsGoodCanadian itmay be but it is poor

IndianThesewereonceapowerful tribePoliticsareall theragewith themnowIeventhoughtthatarowofwigwamswithadanceofpowwowsandaprisonertorturedatthestakewouldbemorerespectablethanthisWelandedinMilfordandrodealongontheeastsideofthePenobscothavingamoreorlessconstantviewoftheriverandtheIndianislandsinitfortheyretainall theislandsasfarupasNicketowat themouthoftheEastBranchThey are generally well-timbered and are said to be better soil than theneighboring shoresThe river seemed shallowand rocky and interruptedbyrapids ripplingandgleaming in the sunWepausedamoment to seea fishhawkdive for a fish down straight as an arrow from a great height but hemissed his prey this time It was theHoulton road onwhichwewere nowtraveling over which some troops were marched once towards Mars HillthoughnottoMarsfieldasitprovedItisthemainalmosttheonlyroadinthesepartsasstraightandwellmadeandkeptinasgoodrepairasalmostanyyouwillfindanywhereEverywherewesawsignsofthegreatfreshetmdashthishouse standing awry and that where it was not founded but where it wasfoundatanyratethenextdayandthatotherwithawaterloggedlookasifitwere still airing and drying its basement and logs with everybodys marksuponthemandsometimesthemarksoftheirhavingservedasbridgesstrewnalong the road We crossed the Sunkhaze a summery Indian name theOlemmonPassadumkeagandotherstreamswhichmakeagreatershowonthemapthantheynowdidontheroadAtPassadumkeagwefoundanythingbutwhatthenameimpliesmdashearnestpoliticianstowitmdashwhiteonesImeanmdashon the alert to know how the electionwas likely to gomenwho talkedrapidlywithsubduedvoiceandasortoffactitiousearnestnessyoucouldnothelp believing hardlywaiting for an introduction one on each side of yourbuggy endeavoring to say much in little for they see you hold the whipimpatiently but always saying little in much Caucuses they have had itseemsandcaucuses theyare tohaveagainmdashvictoryanddefeatSomebodymaybeelectedsomebodymaynotOnemanatotalstrangerwhostoodbyourcarriageintheduskactuallyfrightenedthehorsewithhisasseverationsgrowingmoresolemnlypositiveastherewaslessinhimtobepositiveaboutSoPassadumkeagdidnotlookonthemapAtsundownleavingtheriverroadawhile for shortnesswewentbywayofEnfieldwherewe stopped for thenightThislikemostofthelocalitiesbearingnamesonthisroadwasaplacetonamewhich in themidstof theunnamedandunincorporatedwildernesswas to make a distinction without a difference it seemed to me HerehoweverInoticedquiteanorchardofhealthyandwell-grownappletreesinabearingstate itbeing theoldest settlershouse in this regionbutallnaturalfruitandcomparativelyworthlessforwantofagrafterAndsoitisgenerallylower down the river It would be a good speculation as well as a favorconferred on the settlers for aMassachusetts boy to go down there with a

trunkfullofchoicescionsandhisgraftingapparatusinthespringThenextmorningwedrovealongthroughahighandhillycountryinviewofCold-StreamPondabeautifullakefourorfivemileslongandcameintotheHoultonroadagainherecalledthemilitaryroadatLincolnforty-fivemilesfromBangorwherethereisquiteavillageforthiscountrymdashtheprincipaloneaboveOldtownLearningthattherewereseveralwigwamshereononeoftheIndianislandsweleftourhorseandwagonandwalkedthroughtheforesthalfamile to the river to procure a guide to themountain Itwas not till afterconsiderable search that we discovered their habitationsmdashsmall huts in aretired place where the scenery was unusually soft and beautiful and theshoreskirtedwithpleasantmeadowsandgracefulelmsWepaddledourselvesacrosstotheislandsideinacanoewhichwefoundontheshoreNearwherewelandedsatanIndiangirltenortwelveyearsoldonarockinthewaterinthe sun washing and humming or moaning a song meanwhile It was anaboriginal strain A salmon-spear made wholly of wood lay on the shoresuchastheymighthaveusedbeforewhitemencameIthadanelasticpieceofwoodfastenedtoonesideofitspointwhichslippedoverandcloseduponthefishsomewhatlikethecontrivanceforholdingabucketattheendofawell-poleAswewalkeduptothenearesthouseweweremetbyasallyofadozenwolfish-looking dogs which may have been lineal descendants from theancient Indian dogswhich the first voyageurs describe as theirwolves IsupposetheywereTheoccupantsoonappearedwithalongpoleinhishandwithwhichhebeatoff thedogswhileheparleyedwithusmdashastalwartbutdullandgreasy-lookingfellowwhotoldusinhissluggishwayinanswertoourquestionsasifitwerethefirstseriousbusinesshehadtodothatdaythattherewereIndiansgoinguprivermdashheandoneothermdashto-daybeforenoonAndwhowastheotherLouisNeptunewholivesinthenexthouseWellletus go over and see Louis together The same doggish reception and LouisNeptune makes his appearancemdasha small wiry man with puckered andwrinkled face yet he seemed the chief man of the two the same as IrememberedwhohadaccompaniedJacksontothemountainin37Thesamequestions were put to Louis and the same information obtained while theotherIndianstoodbyItappearedthattheyweregoingtostartbynoonwithtwo canoes to go up to Chesuncook to huntmoosemdashto be gone amonthWell Louis suppose you get to the Point (to the Five Islands just belowMattawamkeag)tocampwewalkonuptheWestBranchtomorrowmdashfourofusmdashandwaitforyouatthedamorthissideYouovertakeusto-morrowornextdayandtakeusintoyourcanoesWestopforyouyoustopforusWepay you for your trouble Ye replied Louis may be you carry someprovisionforallmdashsomeporkmdashsomebreadmdashandsopayHesaidMesuregetsomemooseandwhenIaskedifhethoughtPomolawouldletusgoupheansweredthatwemustplantonebottleofrumonthetophehadplanted

goodmanyandwhenhelookedagaintherumwasallgoneHehadbeenuptwo or three times he had planted lettermdashEnglish German French etcThesemenwereslightlycladinshirtandpantaloonslikelaborerswithusinwarmweatherTheydidnotinviteusintotheirhousesbutmetusoutsideSowelefttheIndiansthinkingourselvesluckytohavesecuredsuchguidesandcompanionsTherewereveryfewhousesalongtheroadyettheydidnotaltogetherfailasif the lawbywhichmen are dispersedover theglobewere a very stringentone and not to be resistedwith impunity or for slight reasons TherewereeventhegermsofoneortwovillagesjustbeginningtoexpandThebeautyofthe road itself was remarkable The various evergreensmany of which arerarewithusmdashdelicateandbeautifulspecimensofthelarcharbor-vitaeligball-spruce and fir-balsam froma few inches tomany feet in heightmdashlined itssides in some places like a long front yard springing up from the smoothgrass-plotswhichuninterruptedlyborder itandaremadefertilebyitswashwhile it was but a step on either hand to the grim untrodden wildernesswhosetangledlabyrinthoflivingfallenanddecayingtreesonlythedeerandmoose thebear andwolf caneasilypenetrateMoreperfect specimens thananyfront-yardplotcanshowgrewthere togracethepassageof theHoultonteamsAbout noonwe reached theMattawamkeag fifty-sixmiles fromBangor bythewaywehadcomeandputupata frequentedhousestillon theHoultonroadwhere theHoulton stage stopsHerewas a substantial covered bridgeovertheMattawamkeagbuiltIthinktheysaidsomeseventeenyearsbeforeWehaddinnermdashwherebythewayandevenatbreakfastaswellassupperatthepublic-housesonthisroadthefrontrankiscomposedofvariouskindsofsweetcakesinacontinuouslinefromoneendofthetabletotheotherIthinkImaysafelysaythattherewasarowoftenoradozenplatesofthiskindset before us two here To account for which they say that when thelumbererscomeoutofthewoodstheyhaveacravingforcakesandpiesandsuchsweetthingswhichtherearealmostunknownandthisisthesupplytosatisfy that demand The supply is always equal to the demand and thesehungrymen think agooddeal of getting theirmoneysworthNodoubt thebalanceofvictualsisrestoredbythetimetheyreachBangormdashMattawamkeagtakesofftherawedgeWelloverthisfrontrankIsayyoucomingfromthesweet cake side with a cheap philosophic indifference though it may behave to assaultwhat there is behindwhich I donot by anymeansmean toinsinuateisinsufficientinquantityorqualitytosupplythatotherdemandofmennotfromthewoodsbutfromthetownsforvenisonandstrongcountryfareAfterdinnerwestrolleddowntothePointformedbythejunctionofthetworiverswhichissaidtobethesceneofanancientbattlebetweentheEastern Indians and the Mohawks and searched there carefully for relics

thoughthemenatthebar-roomhadneverheardofsuchthingsbutwefoundonly some flakesof arrowhead stone somepointsof arrowheadsone smallleadenbulletandsomecoloredbeadsthelasttobereferredperhapstoearlyfur-traderdaysTheMattawamkeagthoughwidewasamereriversbedfullofrocksandshallowsatthistimesothatyoucouldcrossitalmostdry-shodinbootsandIcouldhardlybelievemycompanionwhenhetoldmethathehadbeen fifty or sixty miles up it in a batteau through distant and still uncutforests A batteau could hardly find a harbor now at its mouth Deer andcaribouorreindeeraretakenhereinthewinterinsightofthehouseBeforeourcompanionsarrivedwerodeonuptheHoultonroadsevenmilestoMolunkuswhere theAroostook road comes into it andwhere there is aspaciouspublichouseinthewoodscalledtheMolunkusHousekeptbyoneLibbeywhich lookedas if ithad itshall fordancingand formilitarydrillsTherewasnootherevidenceofmanbutthishugeshinglepalaceinthispartoftheworld but sometimes even this is filledwith travelers I looked off thepiazza round thecornerof thehouseup theAroostookroadonwhich therewas no clearing in sight There was a man just adventuring upon it thisevening in a rude original what youmay call Aroostook wagonmdashamereseatwithawagonswungunderitafewbagsonitandadogasleeptowatchthem He offered to carry a message for us to anybody in that countrycheerfullyIsuspectthatifyoushouldgototheendoftheworldyouwouldfindsomebodytheregoingfartherasifjuststartingforhomeatsundownandhavingalastwordbeforehedroveoffHeretoowasasmalltraderwhomIdidnotseeatfirstwhokeptastoremdashbutnogreatstorecertainlymdashinasmallboxoverthewaybehindtheMolunkussign-postItlookedlikethebalance-boxofapatenthay-scalesAsforhishousewecouldonlyconjecturewherethat was he may have been a boarder in theMolunkus House I saw himstanding in his shopdoormdashhis shopwas so small that if a traveler shouldmakedemonstrationsofenteringinhewouldhavetogooutbythebackwayandconferwithhiscustomerthroughawindowabouthisgoodsinthecellarormoreprobablybespokenandyetonthewayIshouldhavegoneinforIfelt a real impulse to trade if I had not stopped to consider what wouldbecomeofhimThedaybeforewehadwalked intoashopoveragainstaninnwherewestoppedthepunybeginningoftradewhichwouldgrowatlastinto a firm copartnership in the future townor citymdashindeed itwas alreadySomebody amp Co I forget who The woman came forward from thepenetraliaof theattachedhouse for SomebodyampCowas in theburningand she sold us percussion-caps canaleacutes and smooth and knew their pricesandqualitiesandwhichthehunterspreferredHerewasalittleofeverythingin a small compass to satisfy thewants and the ambition of thewoodsmdashastockselectedwithwhatpainsandcareandbroughthomeinthewagon-boxor a corner of the Houlton team but there seemed to me as usual a

preponderance of childrens toysmdashdogs to bark and cats to mew andtrumpetstoblowwherenativestherehardlyareyetAsifachildbornintotheMainewoodsamongthepineconesandcedarberriescouldnotdowithoutsuchasugar-manorskipping-jackastheyoungRothschildhasIthinkthattherewasnotmorethanonehouseontheroadtoMolunkusorforsevenmilesAtthatplacewegotoverthefenceintoanewfieldplantedwithpotatoeswherethelogswerestillburningbetweenthehillsandpullingupthe vines found good-sized potatoes nearly ripe growing like weeds andturnipsmixedwiththemThemodeofclearingandplantingistofellthetreesandburnoncewhatwillburnthencutthemupintosuitablelengthsrollintoheapsandburnagainthenwithahoeplantpotatoeswhereyoucancomeatthe ground between the stumps and charred logs for a first crop the ashessufficingformanureandnohoeingbeingnecessarythefirstyearInthefallcutrollandburnagainandsoontillthelandisclearedandsoonitisreadyforgrainandtobelaiddownLetthosetalkofpovertyandhardtimeswhowillinthetownsandcitiescannottheemigrantwhocanpayhisfaretoNewYorkorBostonpay fivedollarsmore togetheremdashIpaid threeall told formypassagefromBostontoBangortwohundredandfiftymilesmdashandbeasrich as he pleases where land virtually costs nothing and houses only thelaborofbuildingandhemaybeginlifeasAdamdidIfhewillstillrememberthe distinction of poor and rich let him bespeak him a narrower houseforthwithWhenwereturnedtotheMattawamkeagtheHoultonstagehadalreadyputupthereandaProvincemanwasbetrayinghisgreennesstotheYankeesbyhisquestionsWhyProvincemoneywontpasshereatparwhenStatesmoneyisgoodatFrederictonmdashthoughthisperhapswassensibleenoughFromwhatIsawthenitappearsthattheProvincemanwasnowtheonlyrealJonathanorrawcountrybumpkinleftsofarbehindbyhisenterprisingneighborsthathedidntknowenough toput aquestion to themNopeoplecan longcontinueprovincialincharacterwhohavethepropensityforpoliticsandwhittlingandrapid traveling which the Yankees have and who are leaving the mothercountrybehindin thevarietyof theirnotionsandinventionsThepossessionand exercise of practical talent merely are a sure and rapid means ofintellectualcultureandindependenceThe lasteditionofGreenleafsMapofMainehungon thewallhereandaswehadnopocket-mapwe resolved to trace amapof the lake country Sodipping awad of tow into the lampwe oiled a sheet of paper on the oiledtable-clothand ingoodfaith tracedwhatweafterwardsascertainedtobealabyrinth of errors carefully following the outlines of the imaginary lakeswhich the map contains The Map of the Public Lands of Maine andMassachusettsistheonlyoneIhaveseenthatatalldeservesthenameItwas

whilewewere engaged in this operation that our companions arrivedTheyhadseentheIndiansfireontheFiveIslandsandsoweconcludedthatallwasrightEarlythenextmorningwehadmountedourpacksandpreparedforatrampuptheWestBranchmycompanionhavingturnedhishorseouttopastureforaweekor tendays thinking thatabiteof freshgrassanda tasteof runningwater would do him as much good as backwoods fare and new countryinfluences hismasterLeaping over a fencewebegan to follow an obscuretrailup thenorthernbankof thePenobscotTherewasnowno road furthertheriverbeingtheonlyhighwayandbuthalfadozenloghutsconfinedtoitsbanks to be met with for thirty miles On either hand and beyond was awhollyuninhabitedwilderness stretching toCanadaNeitherhorsenorcownorvehicleofanykindhadeverpassedoverthisgroundthecattleandthefewbulkyarticleswhichtheloggersusebeinggotupinthewinterontheiceand down again before it breaks up The evergreenwoods had a decidedlysweetandbracingfragrancetheairwasasortofdiet-drinkandwewalkedonbuoyantly in Indian file stretchingour legsOccasionally therewas a smallopeningonthebankmadeforthepurposeoflog-rollingwherewegotasightoftherivermdashalwaysarockyandripplingstreamTheroaroftherapidsthenoteofawhistlerduckontheriverofthejayandchickadeearoundusandofthepigeonwoodpeckerintheopeningswerethesoundsthatweheardThiswaswhatyoumightcallabran-newcountrytheonlyroadswereofNaturesmaking and the few houses were camps Here then one could no longeraccuseinstitutionsandsocietybutmustfrontthetruesourceofevilThere are three classes of inhabitants who either frequent or inhabit thecountrywhichwehadnowentered first the loggerswho forapartof theyear thewinter and spring are far themost numerous but in the summerexceptafewexplorersfortimbercompletelydesertitsecondthefewsettlersIhavenamedtheonlypermanentinhabitantswholiveonthevergeofitandhelp raise supplies for the former third the hunters mostly Indians whorangeoveritintheirseasonAttheendofthreemileswecametotheMattaseunkstreamandmillwheretherewasevenarudewoodenrailroadrunningdowntothePenobscotthelastrailroadweweretoseeWecrossedonetractonthebankoftheriverofmorethan a hundred acres of heavy timberwhich had just been felled and burntoverandwasstillsmokingOurtraillaythroughthemidstofitandwaswell-nigh blotted out The trees lay at full length four or five feet deep andcrossingeachotherinalldirectionsallblackascharcoalbutperfectlysoundwithin stillgoodfor fuelor for timber soon theywouldbecut into lengthsand burnt againHerewere thousands of cords enough to keep the poor ofBoston andNewYork amply warm for a winter which only cumbered the

ground and were in the settlers way And the whole of that solid andinterminable forest is doomed to be gradually devoured thus by fire likeshavingsandnomanbewarmedbyitAtCrockerslog-hutatthemouthofSalmon River seven miles from the Point one of the party commenceddistributingastoreofsmallcentpicture-booksamongthechildren to teachthem to read and also newspapersmore or less recent among the parentsthan which nothing can bemore acceptable to a backwoods people It wasreally an important item in our outfit and at times the only currency thatwould circulate Iwalked throughSalmonRiverwithmy shoeson it beinglowwaterbutnotwithoutwettingmyfeetAfewmiles fartherwecame toMarmHowardsattheendofanextensiveclearingwherethereweretwoorthreeloghutsinsightatonceoneontheoppositesideoftheriverandafew graves even surrounded by a wooden paling where already the rudeforefathersofahamletlieandathousandyearshenceperchancesomepoetwillwritehisElergyinaCountryChurchyardTheVillageHampdensthemute inglorious Miltons and Cromwells guiltless of their countrysbloodwereyetunbornPerchanceinthiswildspottherewillbelaidSomeheartoncepregnantwithcelestialfireHandsthattherodofempiremighthaveswayedOrwakedtoecstasythelivinglyreThenexthousewasFiskstenmilesfromthePointatthemouthoftheEastBranchopposite to the islandNicketowor theForks the last of the Indianislands I am particular to give the names of the settlers and the distancessinceeveryloghutinthesewoodsisapublichouseandsuchinformationisofno little consequence to thosewhomayhaveoccasion to travel thiswayOurcourseherecrossedthePenobscotandfollowedthesouthernbankOneof the party who entered the house in search of some one to set us overreported a very neat dwelling with plenty of books and a new wife justimportedfromBostonwhollynewtothewoodsWefoundtheEastBranchalargeandrapidstreamatitsmouthandmuchdeeperthanitappearedHavingwith somedifficultydiscovered the trail againwekeptup the south sideoftheWestBranchormainriverpassingbysomerapidscalledRock-Ebeemethe roar of which we heard through the woods and shortly after in thethickest of the wood some empty loggers camps still new which wereoccupied thepreviouswinterThoughwesawa fewmoreafterwards IwillmakeoneaccountserveforallTheseweresuchhousesas the lumberersofMainespend thewinter in in thewildernessTherewere thecampsand thehovels for the cattle hardly distinguishable except that the latter had nochimneyThesecampswereabout twenty feet longby fifteenwidebuilt oflogsmdashhemlock cedar spruce or yellow birchmdashone kind alone or all

togetherwith the bark on two or three large ones first one directly aboveanotherandnotched togetherat theends to theheightof threeor four feetthenofsmallerlogsrestingupontransverseonesattheendseachofthelastsuccessively shorter than the other to form the roof The chimney was anoblongsquareholeinthemiddlethreeorfourfeetindiameterwithafenceoflogsashighas theridgeThe intersticeswerefilledwithmossand theroofwas shingled with long and handsome splints of cedar or spruce or pineriftedwithasledgeandcleaverThefireplacethemostimportantplaceofallwasinshapeandsizelikethechimneyanddirectlyunderitdefinedbyalogfenceorfenderonthegroundandaheapofashesafootortwodeepwithinwithsolidbenchesofsplit logs runninground itHere thefireusuallymeltsthesnowanddriestherainbeforeitcandescendtoquenchitThefadedbedsofarbor-vitaelig leavesextendedunder theeavesoneitherhandTherewas theplace for thewater-pail pork-barrel andwash-basin and generally a dingypackofcardsleftonalogUsuallyagooddealofwhittlingwasexpendedonthelatchwhichwasmadeofwoodintheformofanirononeThesehousesaremadecomfortablebythehugefireswhichcanbeaffordednightanddayUsually thesceneryabout themisdrearandsavageenoughandtheloggerscamp is as completely in the woods as a fungus at the foot of a pine in aswampnooutlookbuttotheskyoverheadnomoreclearingthanismadebycuttingdownthetreesofwhichitisbuiltandthosewhicharenecessaryforfuelIfonlyitbewellshelteredandconvenienttohisworkandnearaspringhewastesnothoughtontheprospectTheyareveryproperforesthousesthestemsof the trees collected together andpileduparoundaman tokeepoutwindandrainmdashmadeoflivinggreenlogshangingwithmossandlichenandwith thecurls and fringesof theyellowbirchbark anddrippingwith resinfresh andmoist and redolent of swampy odorswith that sort of vigor andperennialness even about them that toadstools suggest The loggers fareconsists of tea molasses flour pork (sometimes beef) and beans A greatproportion of the beans raised inMassachusetts find their market here OnexpeditionsitisonlyhardbreadandporkoftenrawsliceuponslicewithteaorwaterasthecasemaybeThe primitive wood is always and everywhere damp and mossy so that ItraveledconstantlywiththeimpressionthatIwasinaswampandonlywhenitwasremarkedthatthisorthattractjudgingfromthequalityofthetimberonitwouldmakeaprofitableclearingwasIremindedthatifthesunwereletinitwouldmakeadryfieldlikethefewIhadseenatonceThebestshodforthemostparttravelwithwetfeetIfthegroundwassowetandspongyatthisthe dryest part of a dry season what must it be in the spring The woodshereaboutsaboundedinbeechandyellowbirchofwhichlastthereweresomevery large specimens also spruce cedar fir andhemlockbutwe sawonlythe stumpsof thewhitepinehere someof themofgreat size thesehaving

been already culled out being the only treemuch sought after even as lowdownas thisOnlya littlespruceandhemlockbesidehadbeen loggedhereThe Eastern wood which is sold for fuel in Massachusetts all comes frombelowBangorItwasthepinealonechieflythewhitepinethathadtemptedanybutthehuntertoprecedeusonthisrouteWaites farm thirteen miles from the Point is an extensive and elevatedclearingfromwhichwegotafineviewoftheriverripplingandgleamingfarbeneathusMycompanionshadformerlyhadagoodviewofKtaadnandtheothermountainsherebutto-dayitwassosmokythatwecouldseenothingofthem We could overlook an immense country of uninterrupted foreststretching away up the East Branch toward Canada on the north andnorthwest and toward the Aroostook valley on the northeast and imaginewhatwildlifewasstirringinitsmidstHerewasquiteafieldofcornforthisregionwhosepeculiardryscentweperceivedathirdofamileoffbeforewesawitEighteenmiles fromthePointbroughtus insightofMcCauslinsorUncleGeorges as hewas familiarly called bymy companions towhomhewaswellknownwhereweintendedtobreakourlongfastHishousewasinthemidstofanextensiveclearingorintervaleatthemouthoftheLittleSchoodicRiveron theoppositeornorthbankof thePenobscotSowecollectedonapointoftheshorethatwemightbeseenandfiredourgunasasignalwhichbroughtouthisdogs forthwith and thereafter theirmasterwho indue timetookusacrossinhisbatteauThisclearingwasboundedabruptlyonallsidesbuttheriverbythenakedstemsoftheforestasifyouweretocutonlyafewfeet square in the midst of a thousand acres of mowing and set down athimble thereinHehadawholeheavenandhorizon tohimselfand thesunseemed to be journeying over his clearing only the livelong day Here weconcluded to spend the night and wait for the Indians as there was nostopping-placesoconvenientaboveHehadseennoIndianspassandthisdidnotoftenhappenwithouthisknowledgeHethoughtthathisdogssometimesgavenoticeoftheapproachofIndianshalfanhourbeforetheyarrivedMcCauslinwasaKennebecmanofScotchdescentwhohadbeenawatermantwenty-two years and had driven on the lakes and headwaters of thePenobscotfiveorsixspringsinsuccessionbutwasnowsettledheretoraisesuppliesforthelumberersandforhimselfHeentertainedusadayortwowithtrueScotchhospitalityandwouldacceptnorecompenseforitAmanofadrywitandshrewdnessandageneralintelligencewhichIhadnotlookedforinthe backwoods In fact the deeper you penetrate into thewoods themoreintelligentandinonesenselesscountrifieddoyoufindtheinhabitantsforalways the pioneer has been a traveler and to some extent a man of theworld and as the distanceswithwhich he is familiar are greater so is his

informationmoregeneralandfarreachingthanthevillagersIfIweretolookforanarrowuninformedandcountrifiedmindasopposedtotheintelligenceandrefinementwhicharethoughttoemanatefromcitiesitwouldbeamongtherustyinhabitantsofanold-settledcountryonfarmsallrunoutandgonetoseedwithlife-everlastinginthetownsaboutBostonevenonthehigh-roadinConcordandnotinthebackwoodsofMaineSupperwasgotbeforeoureyes in theamplekitchenbyafirewhichwouldhaveroastedanoxmanywhole logs fourfeet longwereconsumedtoboilour tea-kettlemdashbirchorbeechormaple thesamesummerandwinterandthedishesweresoonsmokingonthetablelatethearm-chairagainstthewallfromwhichoneof thepartywasexpelledThearmsof thechairformedtheframe on which the table rested and when the round top was turned upagainstthewallitformedthebackofthechairandwasnomoreinthewaythanthewall itselfThiswenoticedwastheprevailingfashionintheseloghousesinordertoeconomizeinroomTherewerepiping-hotwheatencakestheflourhavingbeenbroughtuptheriverinbatteauxmdashnoIndianbreadfortheupperpartofMaineitwillberememberedisawheatcountrymdashandhameggs and potatoes andmilk and cheese the produce of the farm and alsoshad and salmon tea sweetened with molasses and sweet cakes incontradistinction to the hot cakes not sweetened the one white the otheryellowtowindupwithSuchwefoundwastheprevailingfareordinaryandextraordinary along this riverMountain cranberries (VacciniumVitis-Idaeliga)stewed and sweetened were the common dessert Everything here was inprofusion and the best of its kind Butter was in such plenty that it wascommonlyusedbeforeitwassaltedtogreasebootswithIn the night we were entertained by the sound of rain-drops on the cedarsplintswhichcovered theroofandawakedthenextmorningwithadroportwoinoureyes Ithadset inforastormandwemadeupourmindsnot toforsakesuchcomfortablequarterswiththisprospectbutwaitforIndiansandfair weather It rained and drizzled and gleamed by turns the livelong dayWhatwedidtherehowwekilledthetimewouldperhapsbeidletotellhowmanytimeswebutteredourbootsandhowoftenadrowsyonewasseen tosidleoff to thebedroomWhen itheldup I strolledupanddown thebankandgatheredtheharebellandcedarberrieswhichgrewthereorelsewetriedbyturnsthelong-handledaxeonthelogsbeforethedoorTheaxe-helvesherewere made to chop standing on the logmdasha primitive log of coursemdashandwerethereforenearlyafootlongerthanwithusOnewhilewewalkedoverthe farm and visited his well-filled barns withMcCauslin There were oneothermanandtwowomenonlyhereHekepthorsescowsoxenandsheepIthinkhe said thathewas the first tobringaplowanda cowso far andhemighthaveaddedthelastwithonlytwoexceptionsThepotato-rothadfoundhimout here too the previous year and got half or two thirds of his crop

though the seedwas of his own raising Oats grass and potatoeswere hisstaplesbutheraisedalsoafewcarrotsandturnipsandalittlecornforthehens for this was all that he dared risk for fear that it would not ripenMelons squashes sweet corn beans tomatoes andmany other vegetablescouldnotberipenedthereThe very few settlers along this stream were obviously tempted by thecheapnessofthelandmainlyWhenIaskedMcCauslinwhymoresettlersdidnotcomeinheansweredthatonereasonwastheycouldnotbuythelanditbelonged to individuals or companieswhowere afraid that theirwild landswouldbesettledandsoincorporatedintotownsandtheybetaxedforthembut to settlingon theStates land therewasno suchhindranceForhis ownparthewantednoneighborsmdashhedidntwish to seeany roadbyhishouseNeighborseventhebestwereatroubleandexpenseespeciallyonthescoreofcattleandfencesTheymightliveacrosstheriverperhapsbutnotonthesamesideThechickensherewereprotectedby thedogsAsMcCauslinsaidTheoldonetookitupfirstandshetaughtthepupandnowtheyhadgotitintotheirheadsthatitwouldntdotohaveanythingofthebirdkindonthepremisesAhawk hovering over was not allowed to alight but barked off by the dogscirclingunderneath and a pigeon or a yellow-hammer as they called thepigeonwoodpeckeronadead limborstumpwas instantlyexpelled Itwasthemainbusinessof their day andkept themconstantly comingandgoingOnewouldrushoutofthehouseontheleastalarmgivenbytheotherWhenitrainedhardestwereturnedtothehouseandtookdownatractfromthe shelfTherewas the Wandering Jew cheap edition and fineprint theCriminalCalendarandParishsGeographyandflashnovelstwoorthreeUnderthepressureofcircumstanceswereadalittleintheseWithsuchaidthe press is not so feeble an engine after all This housewhichwas a fairspecimen of those on this river was built of huge logs which peeped outeverywhere andwerechinkedwithclayandmoss It contained fouror fiveroomsTherewerenosawedboardsorshinglesorclapboardsaboutitandscarcelyanytoolbuttheaxehadbeenusedinitsconstructionThepartitionswere made of long clapboard-like splints of spruce or cedar turned to adelicatesalmon-colorbythesmokeTheroofandsideswerecoveredwiththesame instead of shingles and clapboards and some of a much thicker andlargersizewereusedforthefloorThesewereallsostraightandsmooththattheyansweredthepurposeadmirablyandacarelessobserverwouldnothavesuspectedthattheywerenotsawedandplanedThechimneyandhearthwereofvastsizeandmadeofstoneThebroomwasafewtwigsofarbor-vitaeligtiedtoastickandapolewassuspendedoverthehearthclosetotheceilingtodrystockingsandclothesonInoticedthatthefloorwasfullofsmalldingyholes

asifmadewithagimletbutwhichwereinfactmadebythespikesnearlyaninchlongwhichthelumbererswearintheirbootstopreventtheirslippingonwetlogsJustaboveMcCauslinsthereisarockyrapidwherelogsjaminthespringandmanydriversaretherecollectedwhofrequenthishouseforsuppliestheseweretheirtrackswhichIsawAtsundownMcCauslinpointedawayovertheforestacrosstherivertosignsoffairweatheramidthecloudsmdashsomeeveningrednessthereForeventherethe points of compass held and there was a quarter of the heavensappropriatedtosunriseandanothertosunsetThe next morning the weather proving fair enough for our purpose wepreparedtostartandtheIndianshavingfaileduspersuadedMcCauslinwhowasnotunwillingtorevisitthescenesofhisdrivingtoaccompanyusintheirstead intending to engage one other boatman on thewayA strip of cottonclothforatentacoupleofblanketswhichwouldsufficeforthewholepartyfifteenpoundsofhardbreadtenpoundsofclearporkandalittleteamadeup Uncle Georges pack The last three articles were calculated to beprovisionenoughforsixmenforaweekwithwhatwemightpickupAtea-kettle a frying-pan and an axe to be obtained at the last house wouldcompleteouroutfitWeweresoonoutofMcCauslinsclearingandintheevergreenwoodsagainTheobscuretrailmadebythetwosettlersabovewhicheventhewoodmanissometimes puzzled to discern ere long crossed a narrow open strip in thewoods overrun with weeds called the Burnt Land where a fire had ragedformerlystretchingnorthwardnineor tenmiles toMillinocketLakeAt theendof threemileswereachedShadPondorNoliseemackanexpansionoftheriverHodgetheAssistantStateGeologistwhopassedthroughthisonthe25th of June 1837 says We pushed our boat through an acre ormore ofbuck-beans which had taken root at the bottom and bloomed above thesurfaceinthegreatestprofusionandbeautyThomasFowlershouseisfourmiles from McCauslins on the shore of the pond at the mouth of theMillinocket River and eightmiles from the lake of the same name on thelatter stream This lake affords a more direct course to Ktaadn but wepreferred to follow the Penobscot and the Pamadumcook lakes FowlerwasjustcompletinganewloghutandwassawingoutawindowthroughthelogsnearlytwofeetthickwhenwearrivedHehadbeguntopaperhishousewithsprucebark turned insideoutwhichhadagoodeffect andwas inkeepingwiththecircumstancesInsteadofwaterwegothereadraughtofbeerwhichitwasallowedwouldbebetterclearandthinbutstrongandstringentasthecedarsapItwasasifwesuckedattheveryteatsofNaturespine-cladbosominthesepartsmdashthesapofallMillinocketbotanycommingledmdashthetopmostmost fantastic and spiciest sprays of the primitive wood and whatever

invigoratingandstringentgumoressenceitaffordedsteepedanddissolvedinitmdashalumberersdrinkwhichwouldacclimateandnaturalizeamanatoncemdashwhichwouldmakehimseegreenandifhesleptdreamthatheheardthewindsoughamongthepinesHerewasafifeprayingtobeplayedonthroughwhichwebreathedafewtunefulstrainsmdashbroughthithertotamewildbeastsAs we stood upon the pile of chips by the door fish hawks were sailingoverheadandhereoverShadPondmightdailybewitnessedthetyrannyofthebaldeagleoverthatbirdTompointedawayoverthelaketoabaldeaglesnestwhichwasplainlyvisiblemorethanamileoffonapinehighabovethesurroundingforestandwasfrequentedfromyeartoyearbythesamepairandheldsacredbyhimTherewerethesetwohousesonlytherehislowhutandtheeaglesairycart-loadoffagotsThomasFowlertoowaspersuadedtojoinusfortwomenwerenecessarytomanagethebatteauwhichwassoontobeourcarriageandthesemenneededtobecoolandskillfulforthenavigationofthePenobscotTomspackwassoonmadeforhehadnotfartolookforhiswatermans boots and a red flannel shirt This is the favorite color withlumbermenandredflannelisreputedtopossesssomemysteriousvirtuestobe most healthful and convenient in respect to perspiration In every gangtherewillbea largeproportionof redbirdsWe tookhereapoorand leakybatteauandbegantopoleuptheMillinockettwomilestotheelderFowlersinordertoavoidtheGrandFallsofthePenobscotintendingtoexchangeourbatteau there for a better The Millinocket is a small shallow and sandystreamfullofwhatItooktobelamprey-eelsorsuckersnestsandlinedwithmusquash-cabinsbut free from rapids according toFowler exceptingat itsoutletfromthelakeHewasatthistimeengagedincuttingthenativegrassmdashrush-grass andmeadow-clover as he called itmdashon themeadows and smalllowislandsof thisstreamWenoticedflattenedplaces in thegrassoneitherside where he said a moose had laid down the night before adding thattherewerethousandsinthesemeadowsOldFowlersontheMillinocketsixmilesfromMcCauslinsandtwenty-fourfrom thePoint is the lasthouseGibsonson theSowadnehunk is theonlyclearing above but that had proved a failure and was long since desertedFowleristheoldestinhabitantofthesewoodsHeformerlylivedafewmilesfrom here on the south side of theWest Branch where he built his housesixteenyearsago thefirsthousebuiltabove theFiveIslandsHereournewbatteauwastobecarriedoverthefirstportageoftwomilesroundtheGrandFalls of the Penobscot on a horse-sled made of saplings to jump thenumerousrocksinthewaybutwehadtowaitacoupleofhoursforthemtocatchthehorseswhichwerepasturedatadistanceamidthestumpsandhadwanderedstillfartheroffThelastofthesalmonforthisseasonhadjustbeencaughtandwerestillfreshinpicklefromwhichenoughwasextractedtofillouremptykettleandsograduateourintroductiontosimplerforestfareThe

week before they had lost nine sheep here out of their first flock by thewolvesThe surviving sheep came round the house and seemed frightenedwhichinducedthemtogoandlookfortherestwhentheyfoundsevendeadandlaceratedandtwostillaliveTheselasttheycarriedtothehouseandasMrsFowlersaidtheyweremerelyscratchedinthethroatandhadnomorevisiblewoundthanwouldbeproducedbytheprickofapinSheshearedoffthe wool from their throats andwashed them and put on some salve andturnedthemoutbut inafewmomentstheyweremissingandhadnotbeenfoundsinceInfacttheywereallpoisonedandthosethatwerefoundswelledup at once so that they saved neither skin nor wool This realized the oldfables of the wolves and the sheep and convinced me that that ancienthostility still existedVerily the shepherd-boydidnot need to sound a falsealarm this time There were steel traps by the door of various sizes forwolves otter and bears with large claws instead of teeth to catch in theirsinewsWolvesarefrequentlykilledwithpoisonedbaitAt length afterwe had dined here on the usual backwoods fare the horsesarrivedandwehauledourbatteauoutofthewaterandlashedittoitswickercarriageand throwing inourpackswalkedonbefore leaving theboatmenanddriverwhowasTomsbrothertomanagetheconcernTheroutewhichledthroughthewildpasturewherethesheepwerekilledwasinsomeplacestheroughestevertraveledbyhorsesoverrockyhillswherethesledbouncedandslidalonglikeavesselpitchinginastormandonemanwasasnecessarytostandatthesterntopreventtheboatfrombeingwreckedasahelmsmaninthe roughest sea The philosophy of our progress was something like thiswhentherunnersstruckarockthreeorfourfeethighthesledbouncedbackandupwardsatthesametimebutasthehorsesneverceasedpullingitcamedown on the top of the rock and so we got over This portage probablyfollowedthetrailofanancientIndiancarryroundthesefallsBytwooclockwewhohadwalkedonbeforereachedtheriverabovethefallsnotfarfromthe outlet ofQuakishLake andwaited for the batteau to comeupWehadbeenherebutashorttimewhenathunder-showerwasseencomingupfromthewestoverthestillinvisiblelakesandthatpleasantwildernesswhichweweresoeagertobecomeacquaintedwithandsoontheheavydropsbegantopatterontheleavesaroundusIhadjustselectedtheprostratetrunkofahugepinefiveorsixfeetindiameterandwascrawlingunderitwhenluckilytheboatarrivedItwouldhaveamusedashelteredmantowitnessthemannerinwhichitwasunlashedandwhirledoverwhilethefirstwaterspoutburstuponusItwasnosoonerinthehandsoftheeagercompanythanitwasabandonedtothefirstrevolutionaryimpulseandtogravity toadjust itandtheymighthavebeen seenall stooping to its shelter andwrigglingunder like somanyeels before itwas fairlydepositedon thegroundWhen allwereunderwepropped up the lee side and busied ourselves therewhittling thole-pins for

rowingwhenweshouldreach the lakesandmadethewoodsringbetweentheclapsofthunderwithsuchboat-songsaswecouldrememberThehorsesstood sleek and shining with the rain all drooping and crestfallen whiledelugeafterdelugewashedoverusbutthebottomofaboatmaybereliedonforatightroofAtlengthaftertwohoursdelayatthisplaceastreakoffairweatherappeared in thenorthwestwhitherourcoursenow laypromisingasereneeveningforourvoyageandthedriverreturnedwithhishorseswhilewemadehastetolaunchourboatandcommenceourvoyageingoodearnestThereweresixofus including the twoboatmenWithourpacksheapedupnear the bows and ourselves disposed as baggage to trim the boat withinstructionsnot tomoveincaseweshouldstrikearockmorethansomanybarrels of porkwe pushed out into the first rapid a slight specimen of thestreamwehad tonavigateWithUncleGeorge in the stern andTom in thebowseachusingasprucepoleabouttwelvefeetlongpointedwithironandpolingonthesamesideweshotuptherapidslikeasalmonthewaterrushingand roaring around so that only a practiced eye could distinguish a safecourse or tell whatwas deepwater andwhat rocks frequently grazing thelatterononeorbothsideswithahundredasnarrowescapesasevertheArgohadinpassingthroughtheSymplegadesIwhohadhadsomeexperienceinboatinghadneverexperiencedanyhalfsoexhilaratingbeforeWewereluckytohaveexchangedourIndianswhomwedidnotknowforthesemenwhotogetherwithTomsbrotherwerereputedthebestboatmenontheriverandwere at once indispensable pilots and pleasant companions The canoe issmallermoreeasilyupsetandsoonerwornoutandtheIndianissaidnottobesoskillfulinthemanagementofthebatteauHeisforthemostpartlesstobe reliedon andmoredisposed to sulks andwhimsTheutmost familiaritywith dead streams or with the ocean would not prepare a man for thispeculiarnavigationandthemostskillfulboatmananywhereelsewouldherebeobligedtotakeouthisboatandcarryroundahundredtimesstillwithgreatrisk as well as delay where the practiced batteau-man poles up withcomparative ease and safety The hardy voyageur pushes with incredibleperseveranceandsuccessquiteuptothefootofthefallsandthenonlycarriesroundsomeperpendicularledgeandlaunchesagaininThetorrentssmoothnessereitdashbelowtostrugglewiththeboilingrapidsaboveTheIndianssaythattheriveronceranbothwaysonehalfupandtheotherdownbutthatsincethewhitemancame it all runs down and now they must laboriously pole their canoesagainstthestreamandcarrythemovernumerousportagesInthesummerallstoresmdashthegrindstoneandtheplowofthepioneerflourporkandutensilsforthe explorermdashmustbe conveyedup the river inbatteaux andmanya cargoandmanyaboatmanislostinthesewatersInthewinterhoweverwhichis

very equable and long the ice is the great highway and the loggers teampenetrates toChesuncookLake and stillhigherup even twohundredmilesaboveBangor Imagine the solitary sled-track running farup into the snowyand evergreen wilderness hemmed in closely for a hundred miles by theforest and again stretching straight across the broad surfaces of concealedlakesWeweresooninthesmoothwateroftheQuakishLakeandtookourturnsatrowingandpaddlingacrossitItisasmallirregularbuthandsomelakeshutinonallsidesbytheforestandshowingnotracesofmanbutsomelowboominadistantcovereservedforspringuseThespruceandcedaronitsshoreshungwith gray lichens looked at a distance like the ghosts of treesDuckswere sailing here and there on its surface and a solitary loon like amorelivingwavemdashavitalspoton the lakessurfacemdashlaughedandfrolickedandshoweditsstraightlegforouramusementJoeMerryMountainappearedinthenorthwestasifitwerelookingdownonthislakeespeciallyandwehadourfirstbutapartialviewofKtaadnitssummitveiledincloudslikeadarkisthmusinthatquarterconnectingtheheavenswiththeearthAftertwomilesof smooth rowing across this lake we found ourselves in the river againwhich was a continuous rapid for one mile to the dam requiring all thestrengthandskillofourboatmentopoleupitThis dam is a quite important and expensivework for this countrywhithercattleandhorsescannotpenetrate in thesummer raising thewholeriver tenfeet and flooding as they said some sixty square miles by means of theinnumerable lakes with which the river connects It is a lofty and solidstructure with sloping piers some distance above made of frames of logsfilled with stones to break the ice Here every log pays toll as it passesthroughthesluicesWe filed into the rude loggers campat thisplace suchas IhavedescribedwithoutceremonyandthecookatthatmomentthesoleoccupantatoncesetaboutpreparingteaforhisvisitorsHisfireplacewhichtherainhadconvertedinto a mud-puddle was soon blazing again and we sat down on the logbenchesaroundittodryusOnthewell-flattenedandsomewhatfadedbedsofarbor-vitaelig leaveswhichstretchedoneitherhandunder theeavesbehinduslay an odd leaf of the Bible some genealogical chapter out of the OldTestament and half buried by the leaves we found Emersons Address onWest India Emancipationwhich had been left here formerly by one of ourcompanyandhadmadetwoconvertstotheLibertypartyhereasIwastoldalso an odd number of theWestminster Review for 1834 and a pamphletentitled History of the Erection of theMonument on the Grave ofMyronHollyThiswas the readableor readingmatter in a lumberers camp in theMainewoodsthirtymilesfromaroadwhichwouldbegivenuptothebears

in a fortnight These things were well thumbed and soiled This gang washeaded by one John Morrison a good specimen of a Yankee and wasnecessarily composed ofmen not bred to the business of dam-building butwho were jacks-at-all-trades handy with the axe and other simpleimplements andwell skilled inwoodandwatercraftWehadhotcakes forour supperevenherewhiteas snowballsbutwithoutbutter and thenever-failing sweet cakes with which we filled our pockets foreseeing that weshould not soonmeetwith the like again Such delicate puffballs seemed asingulardietforbackwoodsmenTherewasalsoteawithoutmilksweetenedwithmolassesAndsoexchangingawordwithJohnMorrisonandhisgangwhen we had returned to the shore and also exchanging our batteau for abetter stillwemadehaste to improve the little daylight that remainedThiscamp exactly twenty-ninemiles fromMattawamkeag Point by thewaywehad come and about one hundred from Bangor by the river was the lasthumanhabitationofanykindinthisdirectionBeyondtherewasnotrailandthe river and lakes by batteaux and canoes was considered the onlypracticablerouteWewereaboutthirtymilesbytheriverfromthesummitofKtaadn which was in sight though not more than twenty perhaps in astraightlineIt being about the full of the moon and a warm and pleasant evening wedecidedtorowfivemilesbymoonlight totheheadof theNorthTwinLakelest thewindshouldriseonthemorrowAfteronemileofriverorwhattheboatmen call thoroughfaremdashfor the river becomes at length only theconnecting link between the lakesmdashand some slight rapid which had beenmostlymadesmoothwaterbythedamweenteredtheNorthTwinLakejustafter sundown and steered across for the river thoroughfare four milesdistant This is a noble sheet of water where one may get the impressionwhichanewcountryandalakeofthewoodsarefittedtocreateTherewasthesmokeofno loghutnorcampofanykind togreetusstill lesswasanyloverofnatureormusingtravelerwatchingourbatteaufromthedistanthillsnoteventheIndianhunterwasthereforherarelyclimbsthembuthugstheriverlikeourselvesNofacewelcomedusbutthefinefantasticspraysoffreeandhappyevergreen treeswavingoneaboveanother in theirancienthomeAtfirsttheredcloudshungoverthewesternshoreasgorgeouslyasifoveracity and the lake lay open to the light with even a civilized aspect as ifexpectingtradeandcommerceandtownsandvillasWecoulddistinguishtheinlet to theSouthTwinwhich is said tobe the largerwhere the shorewasmisty and blue and it was worth the while to look thus through a narrowopeningacrosstheentireexpanseofaconcealedlaketoitsownyetmoredimanddistantshoreTheshoresrosegentlytorangesoflowhillscoveredwithforestsand though in fact themostvaluablewhite-pine timberevenaboutthis lake hadbeen culledout thiswouldneverhavebeen suspectedby the

voyagerTheimpressionwhichindeedcorrespondedwiththefactwasasifwewereuponahightable-landbetweentheStatesandCanadathenorthernsideofwhich isdrainedby theSt JohnandChaudiegravere the southernby thePenobscotandKennebecTherewasnoboldmountainousshoreaswemighthaveexpectedbutonlyisolatedhillsandmountainsrisinghereandtherefromtheplateauThecountryisanarchipelagooflakesmdashthelake-countryofNewEnglandTheirlevelsvarybutafewfeetandtheboatmenbyshortportagesorbynoneatallpasseasilyfromonetoanotherTheysaythatatveryhighwaterthePenobscotandtheKennebecflowintoeachotheroratanyratethatyoumay liewith your face in the one and your toes in the other Even thePenobscotandStJohnhavebeenconnectedbyacanalsothatthelumberoftheAllegashinsteadofgoingdowntheStJohncomesdownthePenobscotand the Indians tradition that the Penobscot once ran both ways for hisconvenienceisinonesensepartiallyrealizedto-dayNoneofourpartybutMcCauslinhadbeenabove this lakesowe trusted tohimtopilotusandwecouldnotbutconfesstheimportanceofapilotonthesewatersWhileitisriveryouwillnoteasilyforgetwhichwayisup-streambutwhenyouentera lake the river iscompletely lost andyouscan thedistantshores invain to findwhere it comes inAstranger is for the timeat leastlostandmustsetaboutavoyageofdiscoveryfirstofalltofindtheriverTofollowthewindingsoftheshorewhenthelakeistenmilesorevenmoreinlengthandofanirregularitywhichwillnotsoonbemappedisawearisomevoyageandwillspendhistimeandhisprovisionsTheytellastoryofagangofexperiencedwoodmensenttoalocationonthisstreamwhowerethuslostin thewilderness of lakes They cut theirway through thickets and carriedtheirbaggageandtheirboatsoverfromlaketolakesometimesseveralmilesThey carried intoMillinocket Lake which is on another stream and is tenmiles square and contains a hundred islands They explored its shoresthoroughlyand thencarried intoanother andanother and itwasaweekoftoilandanxietybefore they found thePenobscotRiveragainand then theirprovisionswereexhaustedandtheywereobligedtoreturnWhileUncleGeorgesteeredforasmallislandneartheheadofthelakenowjust visible like a speck on the water we rowed by turns swiftly over itssurfacesingingsuchboatsongsaswecouldrememberTheshoresseemedatanindefinitedistanceinthemoonlightOccasionallywepausedinoursingingandrestedonouroarswhilewelistenedtohearifthewolveshowledforthisis a common serenade and my companions affirmed that it was the mostdismal and unearthly of sounds butwe heard none this time Ifwe did nothearhoweverwedidlistennotwithoutareasonableexpectationthatatleastI have to tellmdashonly some utterly uncivilized big-throated owl hooted loudanddismallyinthedrearandboughywildernessplainlynotnervousabouthissolitarylifenorafraidtoheartheechoesofhisvoicethereWeremembered

alsothatpossiblymooseweresilentlywatchingusfromthedistantcovesorsomesurlybearortimidcaribouhadbeenstartledbyoursingingItwaswithnewemphasisthatwesangtheretheCanadianboatsongmdashRowbrothersrowthestreamrunsfastTherapidsarenearandthedaylightspastwhich describes precisely our own adventure and was inspired by theexperienceof a similar kindof lifemdashfor the rapidswere ever near and thedaylightlongpastthewoodsonshorelookeddimandmanyanUtawastidehereemptiedintothelakeWhyshouldweyetoursailunfurlThereisnotabreaththebluewavetocurlButwhenthewindblowsofftheshoreOhsweetlywellrestourwearyoarUtawastidethistremblingmoonShallseeusfloatoerthysurgessoonAt last we glided past the green isle which had been our landmark alljoininginthechorusasifbythewaterylinksofriversandoflakeswewereabout to float over unmeasured zones of earth bound on unimaginableadventuresmdashSaintofthisgreenislehearourprayersOhgrantuscoolheavensandfavoringairsAboutnineoclockwereachedtheriverandranourboatintoanaturalhavenbetween some rocks and drew her out on the sand This camping-groundMcCauslinhadbeenfamiliarwithinhislumberingdaysandhenowstruckitunerringlyin themoonlightandweheardthesoundof therillwhichwouldsupply uswith coolwater emptying into the lakeThe first businesswas tomakeafireanoperationwhichwasalittledelayedbythewetnessofthefuelandthegroundowingtotheheavyshowersoftheafternoonThefireisthemaincomfortofthecampwhetherinsummerorwinterandisaboutasampleatone seasonas at another It is aswell for cheerfulness as forwarmthanddrynessItformsonesideofthecamponebrightsideatanyrateSomeweredispersed to fetch in dead trees and boughs whileUncleGeorge felled thebirchesandbeecheswhichstoodconvenientandsoonwehadafiresometenfeet longby threeor four highwhich rapidlydried the sandbefore itThiswascalculated toburnallnightWenextproceeded topitchour tentwhichoperationwasperformedbystickingourtwospike-polesintothegroundinaslantingdirectionabouttenfeetapartforraftersandthendrawingourcottonclothoverthemandtyingitdownattheendsleavingitopeninfrontshed-

fashionButthiseveningthewindcarriedthesparksontothetentandburneditSowehastilydrewupthebatteaujustwithintheedgeofthewoodsbeforethefireandproppinguponesidethreeorfourfeethighspreadthetentontheground to lieon andwith the cornerof ablanket orwhatmoreor lesswecouldgettoputoveruslaydownwithourheadsandbodiesundertheboatandourfeetandlegsonthesandtowardthefireAtfirstwelayawaketalkingofour course and findingourselves in soconvenient aposture for studyingthe heavenswith themoon and stars shining in our faces our conversationnaturally turned upon astronomy and we recounted by turns the mostinterestingdiscoveries in that scienceBut at lengthwe composedourselvesseriouslytosleepItwasinterestingwhenawakenedatmidnighttowatchthegrotesqueandfiend-likeformsandmotionsofsomeoneofthepartywhonotbeingabletosleephadgotupsilentlytoarousethefireandaddfreshfuelforachangenowstealthilyluggingadeadtreefromoutthedarkandheavingitonnowstirringuptheemberswithhisforkortiptoeingabouttoobservethestarswatchedperchancebyhalftheprostratepartyinbreathlesssilencesomuchthemoreintensebecausetheywereawakewhileeachsupposedhisneighborsoundasleepThusarousedItoobroughtfreshfueltothefireandthenrambledalongthesandyshoreinthemoonlighthopingtomeetamoosecome down to drink or else a wolf The little rill tinkled the louder andpeopledall thewildernessformeandtheglassysmoothnessofthesleepinglake laving the shores of a newworldwith the dark fantastic rocks risinghereandtherefromitssurfacemadeascenenoteasilydescribedIthasleftsuchan impressionof sternyetgentlewildnessonmymemoryaswillnotsoonbeeffacedNotfarfrommidnightwewereoneafteranotherawakenedbyrainfallingonourextremitiesandaseachwasmadeawareofthefactbycoldorwethedrewalongsighandthendrewuphislegsuntilgraduallywehad all sidled round from lying at right angleswith theboat till our bodiesformed an acute angle with it and were wholly protected When next weawokethemoonandstarswereshiningagainandthereweresignsofdawnintheeastIhavebeenthusparticularinordertoconveysomeideaofanightinthewoodsWehadsoonlaunchedandloadedourboatandleavingourfireblazingwereoffagainbeforebreakfastThelumberersrarelytroublethemselvestoputouttheirfiressuchisthedampnessoftheprimitiveforestandthisisonecausenodoubtofthefrequentfiresinMaineofwhichwehearsomuchonsmokydaysinMassachusettsTheforestsareheldcheapafterthewhitepinehasbeenculled out and the explorers and hunters pray for rain only to clear theatmosphereofsmokeThewoodsweresowetto-dayhoweverthattherewasno danger of our fire spreading After poling up half a mile of river orthoroughfarewerowedamileacrossthefootofPamadumcookLakewhichisthenamegivenonthemaptothiswholechainoflakesasiftherewasbut

one though theyare ineach instancedistinctlyseparatedbya reachof theriverwithitsnarrowandrockychannelanditsrapidsThislakewhichisoneof the largest stretched northwest ten miles to hills and mountains in thedistanceMcCauslinpointedtosomedistantandasyetinaccessibleforestsofwhitepineonthesidesofamountaininthatdirectionTheJoeMerryLakeswhichlaybetweenusandMooseheadonthewestwererecentlyiftheyarenot still surrounded by some of the best timbered land in the State Byanother thoroughfare we passed into Deep Cove a part of the same lakewhichmakesuptwomilestowardthenortheastandrowingtwomilesacrossthisbyanothershortthoroughfareenteredAmbejijisLakeAt the entrance to a lakewe sometimes observedwhat is technically calledfencing-stuff or the unhewn timbers of which booms are formed eithersecuredtogetherinthewaterorlaidupontherocksandlashedtotreesforspringuseButitwasalwaysstartlingtodiscoversoplainatrailofcivilizedmanthereIrememberthatIwasstrangelyaffectedwhenwewerereturningbythesightofaring-boltwelldrilledintoarockandfastenedwithleadattheheadofthissolitaryAmbejijisLakeItwaseasytoseethatdrivinglogsmustbeanexcitingaswellasarduousanddangerous business All winter long the logger goes on piling up the treeswhichhehastrimmedandhauledinsomedryravineattheheadofastreamandtheninthespringhestandsonthebankandwhistlesforRainandThawreadytowringtheperspirationoutofhisshirttoswellthetidetillsuddenlywithawhoopandhalloofromhimshuttinghiseyesasiftobidfarewelltothe existing state of things a fair proportion of his winters work goesscramblingdown the country followedbyhis faithfuldogsThawandRainand Freshet andWind thewhole pack in full cry toward theOronoMillsEverylogismarkedwiththeownersnamecutinthesapwoodwithanaxeorboredwithanaugersodeepasnottobewornoffinthedrivingandyetnotsoastoinjurethetimberanditrequiresconsiderableingenuitytoinventnewand simple marks where there are so many owners They have quite analphabet of their own which only the practiced can read One of mycompanionsreadofffromhismemorandumbooksomemarksofhisownlogsamong which there were crosses belts crows feet girdles etc as Ymdashgirdlemdashcrowfoot and various other devices When the logs have run thegauntletofinnumerablerapidsandfallseachonitsownaccountwithmoreor less jamming and bruising those bearing various owners marks beingmixeduptogethermdashsinceallmusttakeadvantageofthesamefreshetmdashtheyare collected together at the heads of the lakes and surrounded by a boomfenceof floating logs toprevent their beingdispersedby thewind andarethustowedalltogetherlikeaflockofsheepacrossthelakewherethereisnocurrentbyawindlassorboom-headsuchaswesometimessawstandingonanislandorheadlandand ifcircumstancespermitwith theaidofsailsand

oarsSometimesnotwithstanding thelogsaredispersedovermanymilesoflakesurface ina fewhoursbywindsandfreshetsand thrownupondistantshoreswherethedrivercanpickuponlyoneortwoatatimeandreturnwiththemtothethoroughfareandbeforehegetshisflockwellthroughAmbejijisor Pamadumcook he makes many a wet and uncomfortable camp on theshore He must be able to navigate a log as if it were a canoe and be asindifferent to cold and wet as a muskrat He uses a few efficient toolsmdashalevercommonlyofrockmaplesixorsevenfeetlongwithastoutspikeinitstrongly ferruled on and a long spike-pole with a screw at the end of thespiketomakeitholdTheboysalongshorelearntowalkonfloatinglogsascityboyson sidewalksSometimes the logs are thrownupon rocks in suchpositions as to be irrecoverable but by another freshet as high or they jamtogether at rapids and falls and accumulate in vast piles which the drivermuststartattheriskofhislifeSuchisthelumberbusinesswhichdependsonmanyaccidentsastheearlyfreezingoftheriversthattheteamsmaygetupinseasonasufficientfreshetinthespringtofetchthelogsdownandmanyothersIquoteMichauxonLumberingontheKennebecthenthesourceofthebest white pine lumber carried to England The persons engaged in thisbranch of industry are generally emigrants from New Hampshire In thesummer they unite in small companies and traverse these vast solitudes inevery direction to ascertain the places in which the pines abound Aftercuttingthegrassandconvertingitintohayforthenourishmentofthecattletobeemployed in their labor they returnhome In thebeginningof thewintertheyentertheforestsagainestablishthemselvesinhutscoveredwiththebarkofthecanoe-birchorthearbor-vitaeligandthoughthecoldissointensethatthemercurysometimesremainsforseveralweeksfrom40degto50deg[Fahr]belowthe point of congelation they persevere with unabated courage in theirworkAccording toSpringer thecompanyconsistsofchoppers swampersmdashwhomakeroadsmdashbarkerandloader teamsterandcookWhenthe treesarefelledtheycutthemintologsfromfourteentoeighteenfeetlongandbymeansoftheircattlewhichtheyemploywithgreatdexteritydragthemtotheriverandafterstampingonthemamarkofpropertyrollthemonitsfrozenbosom At the breaking of the ice in the spring they float down with thecurrent The logs that are not drawn the first year adds Michaux areattacked by large worms which form holes about two lines in diameter ineverydirectionbut if strippedof their bark theywill remainuninjured forthirtyyearsAmbejijisthisquietSundaymorningstruckmeasthemostbeautifullakewehadseen It is said tobeoneof thedeepestWehad the fairestviewof JoeMerryDoubleTopandKtaadnfromitssurfaceThesummitofthelatterhadasingularlyflattable-landappearancelikeashorthighwaywhereademigodmightbeletdowntotakeaturnortwoinanafternoontosettlehisdinnerWe

rowedamileandahalf tonear theheadof thelakeandpushingthroughafieldof lily-pads landed to cookourbreakfast by the sideof a large rockknown to McCauslin Our breakfast consisted of tea with hard-bread andpork and fried salmonwhichwe atewith forks neatlywhittled from aldertwigswhichgrewthereoffstripsofbirch-barkforplatesTheteawasblackteawithoutmilktocolororsugartosweetenitandtwotindipperswereourteacupsThisbeverageisasindispensabletotheloggersastoanygossipingoldwomeninthelandandtheynodoubtderivegreatcomfortfromitHerewas the site of an old loggers camp remembered by McCauslin nowovergrown with weeds and bushes In the midst of a dense underwood wenoticedawholebrickonarockinasmallruncleanandredandsquareasinabrick-yardwhichhadbeenbroughtthusfarformerlyfortampingSomeofusafterwardregrettedthatwehadnotcarriedthisonwithustothetopofthemountaintobeleftthereforourmarkItwouldcertainlyhavebeenasimpleevidenceofcivilizedmanMcCauslinsaidthatlargewoodencrossesmadeofoak still sound were sometimes found standing in this wilderness whichwere set up by the first Catholic missionaries who came through to theKennebecInthenextninemileswhichweretheextentofourvoyageandwhichittookustherestofthedaytogetoverwerowedacrossseveralsmalllakespoledupnumerousrapidsandthoroughfaresandcarriedoverfourportagesIwillgive the names and distances for the benefit of future tourists First afterleavingAmbejijisLakewehadaquarterofamileofrapidstotheportageorcarry of ninety rods aroundAmbejijis Falls then amile and a half throughPassamagametLakewhich isnarrowand river-like to the fallsof thesamenamemdashAmbejijis stream coming in on the right then two miles throughKatepskonegan Lake to the portage of ninety rods around KatepskoneganFallswhichnamesignifiescarrying-placemdashPassamagametstreamcomingin on the left then three miles through Pockwockomus Lake a slightexpansionoftherivertotheportageoffortyrodsaroundthefallsofthesamenamemdashKatepskoneganstreamcominginontheleftthenthreequartersofamilethroughAboljacarmegusLakesimilartothelasttotheportageoffortyrodsaroundthefallsofthesamenamethenhalfamileofrapidwatertotheSowadnehunkdeadwaterandtheAboljacknagesicstreamThisisgenerallytheorderofnamesasyouascendtheriverFirstthelakeorif there is no expansion the deadwater then the falls then the streamemptyingintothelakeorriveraboveallofthesamenameFirstwecametoPassamagamet Lake then to Passamagamet Falls then to PassamagametStreamemptyinginThisorderandidentityofnamesitwillbeperceivedisquite philosophical since the deadwater or lake is always at least partiallyproducedbythestreamemptyinginaboveandthefirstfallbelowwhichistheoutletof that lakeandwhere that tributarywatermakes its firstplunge

alsonaturallybearsthesamenameAt theportagearoundAmbejijisFalls Iobservedapork-barrelon theshorewithaholeeightornineinchessquarecutinonesidewhichwassetagainstan upright rock but the bears without turning or upsetting the barrel hadgnawedaholeintheoppositesidewhichlookedexactlylikeanenormousrat-holebigenoughtoputtheirheadsinandatthebottomofthebarrelwerestillleftafewmangledandslabberedslicesofporkItisusualforthelumbererstoleave such supplies as they cannot conveniently carry along with them atcarriesorcampstowhichthenextcomersdonotscrupletohelpthemselvestheybeingthepropertycommonlynotofanindividualbutacompanywhocanaffordtodealliberallyIwilldescribeparticularlyhowwegotoversomeoftheseportagesandrapidsin order that the readermay get an idea of the boatmans lifeAtAmbejijisFalls for instance there was the roughest path imaginable cut through thewoodsatfirstuphillatanangleofnearlyforty-fivedegreesoverrocksandlogswithoutendThiswasthemanneroftheportageWefirstcarriedoverourbaggageanddepositeditontheshoreattheotherendthenreturningtothebatteauwe dragged it up the hill by the painter and onwardwith frequentpausesoverhalf theportageBut thiswasabunglingway andwould soonhave worn out the boat Commonly three men walk over with a batteauweighing from three to five or six hundred pounds on their heads andshoulders the tallest standing under themiddle of the boatwhich is turnedoverandoneateachendorelsetherearetwoatthebowsMorecannotwelltakeholdatonceButthisrequiressomepracticeaswellasstrengthandisinanycaseextremely laboriousandwearing to theconstitution to followWewereonthewholeratheraninvalidpartyandcouldrenderourboatmenbutlittleassistanceOurtwomenatlengthtookthebatteauupontheirshouldersandwhile twoofussteadiedit toprevent it fromrockingandwearingintotheir shouldersonwhich theyplaced theirhats foldedwalkedbravelyoverthe remaining distance with two or three pauses In the samemanner theyaccomplished theotherportagesWith this crushingweight theymust climbandstumblealongoverfallentreesandslipperyrocksofallsizeswherethosewho walked by the sides were continually brushed off such was thenarrownessofthepathButwewerefortunatenottohavetocutourpathinthe firstplaceBeforewe launchedourboatwe scraped thebottomsmoothagainwithourkniveswhereithadrubbedontherockstosavefrictionToavoidthedifficultiesoftheportageourmendeterminedtowarpupthePassamagamet Falls so while the rest walked over the portage with thebaggageIremainedinthebatteautoassistinwarpingupWeweresooninthemidstof the rapidswhichweremore swift and tumultuous thananywehad poled up and had turned to the side of the stream for the purpose of

warping when the boatmen who felt some pride in their skill and wereambitioustodosomethingmorethanusualformybenefitasIsurmisedtookonemoreviewoftherapidsorratherthefallsandinanswertoourquestionwhetherwecouldntgetuptheretheotheransweredthatheguessedhedtryitSowepushedagainintothemidstofthestreamandbegantostrugglewiththe current I sat in themiddle of theboat to trim itmoving slightly to therightor left as it grazed a rockWith anuncertain andwaveringmotionwewound and bolted our way up until the bow was actually raised two feetabove the stern at the steepest pitch and then when everything dependeduponhisexertionsthebowmanspolesnappedintwobutbeforehehadtimeto take the spare one which I reached him he had saved himself with thefragmentuponarockandsowegotupbyahairsbreadthandUncleGeorgeexclaimedthatthatwasneverdonebeforeandhehadnottrieditifhehadnotknownwhomhehadgotinthebownorheinthebowifhehadnotknownhim in the stern At this place there was a regular portage cut through thewoods and our boatmen had never known a batteau to ascend the fallsAsnearasIcanremembertherewasaperpendicularfallhereattheworstplaceofthewholePenobscotRivertwoorthreefeetatleastIcouldnotsufficientlyadmire the skill and coolness with which they performed this feat neverspeakingtoeachotherThebowmannotlookingbehindbutknowingexactlywhat theother isaboutworksas ifheworkedaloneNowsounding invainfor a bottom in fifteen feet ofwaterwhile the boat falls back several rodsheldstraightonlywiththegreatestskillandexertionorwhile thesternmanobstinately holds his ground like a turtle the bowman springs from side toside with wonderful suppleness and dexterity scanning the rapids and therockswith a thousand eyes and now having got a bite at lastwith a lustyshovewhichmakeshispolebendandquiverandthewholeboattremblehegainsafewfeetupontheriverToaddtothedangerthepolesareliableatanytimetobecaughtbetweentherocksandwrenchedoutoftheirhandsleavingthematthemercyoftherapidsmdashtherocksasitwerelyinginwait likesomanyalligators tocatchthemintheirteethandjerkthemfromyourhandsbeforeyouhavestolenaneffectualshoveagainsttheirpalatesThepoleissetclosetotheboatandtheprowismadetoovershootandjustturnthecornersof the rocks in the very teeth of the rapids Nothing but the length andlightness and the slight draught of the batteau enables them to make anyheadway The bowmanmust quickly choose his course there is no time todeliberate Frequently the boat is shoved between rocks where both sidestouchandthewatersoneitherhandareaperfectmaelstromHalfamileabovethistwoofustriedourhandsatpolingupaslightrapidandwe were just surmounting the last difficulty when an unlucky rockconfounded our calculations and while the batteau was sweeping roundirrecoverablyamidthewhirlpoolwewereobligedtoresignthepolestomore

skillfulhandsKatepskoneganisoneoftheshallowestandweediestofthelakesandlookedas if it might abound in pickerel The falls of the same name where westopped to dine are considerable and quite picturesqueHereUncleGeorgehadseen troutcaughtby thebarrelfulbut theywouldnot rise toourbaitatthishourHalfwayoverthiscarrythusfarintheMainewildernessonitswayto theProvinceswe noticed a large flamingOakHall handbill about twofeet longwrapped round the trunkofapine fromwhich thebarkhadbeenstrippedandtowhichitwasfastgluedbythepitchThisshouldberecordedamongtheadvantagesofthismodeofadvertisingthatsopossiblyeventhebears andwolvesmoose deer otter andbeaver not tomention the Indianmaylearnwheretheycanfitthemselvesaccordingtothelatestfashionoratleast recover some of their own lost garmentsWe christened this the OakHallcarryTheforenoonwasassereneandplacidonthiswildstreaminthewoodsasweare apt to imagine that Sunday in summer usually is inMassachusettsWewere occasionally startled by the scream of a bald eagle sailing over thestream in front of our batteau or of the fish hawks onwhom he levies hiscontributionsTherewereat intervalssmallmeadowsofafewacreson thesidesofthestreamwavingwithuncutgrasswhichattractedtheattentionofourboatmenwho regretted that theywerenotnearer to their clearings andcalculated how many stacks they might cut Two or three men sometimesspendthesummerbythemselvescuttingthegrassinthesemeadowstoselltotheloggersinthewintersinceitwillfetchahigherpriceonthespotthaninanymarketintheStateOnasmallislecoveredwiththiskindofrushorcut-grassonwhichwelandedtoconsultaboutourfurthercoursewenoticedtherecent track of a moose a large roundish hole in the soft wet groundevincingthegreatsizeandweightoftheanimalthatmadeitTheyarefondofthewaterandvisitalltheseislandmeadowsswimmingaseasilyfromislandtoislandastheymaketheirwaythroughthethicketsonlandNowandthenwepassedwhatMcCauslin called a pokelogan an Indian term forwhat thedriversmighthavereasontocallapoke-logs-inaninletthatleadsnowhereIfyou get in you have got to get out again the same way These and thefrequent runrounds which come into the river again would embarrass aninexperiencedvoyagernotalittleThecarryaroundPockwockomusFallswasexceedinglyroughandrockythebatteauhavingtobelifteddirectlyfromthewaterupfourorfivefeetontoarockandlaunchedagaindownasimilarbankTherocksonthisportagewerecovered with the dents made by the spikes in the lumberers boots whilestaggeringoverunder theweightof theirbatteauxandyoucouldseewherethesurfaceofsome large rocksonwhich theyhad rested theirbatteauxwas

wornquitesmoothwithuseAsitwaswehadcarriedoverbuthalftheusualportageat thisplaceforthisstageofthewaterandlaunchedourboatinthesmoothwavejustcurvingtothefallpreparedtostrugglewiththemostviolentrapidwehadtoencounterTherestofthepartywalkedovertheremainderoftheportagewhileI remainedwith theboatmentoassist inwarpingupOnehadtoholdtheboatwhiletheothersgotintopreventitfromgoingoverthefallsWhenwehadpusheduptherapidsasfaraspossiblekeepingclose totheshoreTomseizedthepainterandleapedoutuponarockjustvisibleinthewater but he lost his footing notwithstanding his spiked boots and wasinstantlyamid therapidsbutrecoveringhimselfbygoodluckandreachinganotherrockhepassedthepaintertomewhohadfollowedhimandtookhisplaceagaininthebowsLeapingfromrocktorockintheshoalwaterclosetotheshoreandnowandthengettingabitewiththeroperoundanuprightoneI held theboatwhile one reset his pole and then all three forced it upwardagainstanyrapidThiswaswarpingupWhenapartofuswalkedroundatsuchaplacewegenerally took theprecaution to takeout themostvaluablepartofthebaggageforfearofbeingswampedAs we poled up a swift rapid for half a mile above Aboljacarmegus Fallssomeof thepartyreadtheirownmarksonthehugelogswhichlaypileduphighanddryontherocksoneitherhandtherelicsprobablyofajamwhichhadtakenplacehereintheGreatFreshetinthespringManyofthesewouldhavetowaitforanothergreatfreshetperchanceiftheylastedsolongbeforetheycouldbegotoffItwassingularenoughtomeetwithpropertyof theirswhich they had never seen and where they had never been before thusdetainedbyfreshetsandrockswhenonitswaytothemMethinksthatmustbewhere all my property lies cast up on the rocks on some distant andunexploredstreamandwaitingforanunheard-offreshettofetchitdownOmake haste ye godswith yourwinds and rains and start the jambefore itrotsThe lasthalfmilecarriedus to theSowadnehunkDeadwatersocalledfromthe stream of the same name signifying running between mountains animportant tributarywhichcomes inamileaboveHerewedecided tocampabout twenty miles from the Dam at the mouth of Murch Brook and theAboljacknagesicmountainstreamsbroadofffromKtaadnandaboutadozenmilesfromitssummithavingmadefifteenmilesthisdayWe had been told byMcCauslin thatwe should here find trout enough sowhilesomepreparedthecamptherestfelltofishingSeizingthebirchpoleswhich some party of Indians or white hunters had left on the shore andbaitingourhookswithporkandwithtroutassoonastheywerecaughtwecast our lines into themouth of theAboljacknagesic a clear swift shallowstream which came in from Ktaadn Instantly a shoal of white chivin

(Leuciscus pulchellus) silvery roaches cousin-trout or what not large andsmall prowling thereabouts fell upon our bait and one after another werelandedamidst thebushesAnon their cousins the true trout took their turnandalternatelythespeckledtroutandthesilveryroachesswallowedthebaitasfastaswecouldthrowinandthefinestspecimensofboththatIhaveeverseen the largest one weighing three pounds were heaved upon the shorethoughatfirstinvaintowriggledownintothewateragainforwestoodintheboatbut soonwe learned to remedy this evil foronewhohad losthishookstoodonshoretocatchthemastheyfellinaperfectshoweraroundhimmdashsometimeswetandslippery full inhisfaceandbosomashisarmswereoutstretchedtoreceivethemWhileyetalivebeforetheirtintshadfadedtheyglistenedlikethefairestflowerstheproductofprimitiveriversandhecouldhardly trusthis sensesashestoodover them that these jewels shouldhaveswamawayinthatAboljacknagesicwaterforsolongsomanydarkagesmdashthesebrightfluviatileflowersseenofIndiansonlymadebeautifultheLordonlyknowswhytoswimthereIcouldunderstandbetterforthisthetruthofmythology thefablesofProteusandall thosebeautifulsea-monstersmdashhowallhistoryindeedputtoaterrestrialuseismerehistorybutputtoacelestialismythologyalwaysBut there is the roughvoiceofUncleGeorgewhocommandsat the frying-pan to sendoverwhatyouvegot and thenyoumaystay tillmorningThepork sizzles and cries for fish Luckily for the foolish race and thisparticularlyfoolishgenerationoftroutthenightshutdownatlastnotalittledeepenedbythedarksideofKtaadnwhichlikeapermanentshadowreareditselffromtheeasternbankLescarbotwritingin1609tellsusthattheSieurChampdoreacute who with one of the people of the Sieur deMonts ascendedsome fifty leagues up theSt John in 1608 found the fish so plenty quenmettantlachaudiegraveresurlefeuilsenavoientprissuffisammentpoureuxdisneravantqueleaufustchaudeTheirdescendantsherearenolessnumerousSoweaccompaniedTomintothewoodstocutcedartwigsforourbedWhilehewentaheadwith theaxeand loppedoff thesmallest twigsof the flat-leavedcedarthearbor-vitaeligofthegardenswegatheredthemupandreturnedwiththemtotheboatuntilitwasloadedOurbedwasmadewithasmuchcareandskillasaroofisshingledbeginningatthefootandlayingthetwigendofthecedarupwardweadvancedtotheheadacourseatatimethussuccessivelycoveringthestub-endsandproducingasoftandlevelbedForussixitwasabouttenfeetlongbysixinbreadthThistimewelayunderourtenthavingpitched itmoreprudentlywith reference to thewind and the flame and theusualhugefireblazedinfrontSupperwaseatenoffalargelogwhichsomefreshet had thrown upThis nightwe had a dish of arbor-vitaelig or cedar teawhichthelumberersometimesuseswhenotherherbsfailmdashAquartofarbor-vitaelig

TomakehimstrongandmightymdashbutIhadnowishtorepeattheexperimentIthadtoomedicinalatasteformypalate There was the skeleton of a moose here whose bones some IndianhuntershadpickedonthisveryspotInthenightIdreamedoftrout-fishingandwhenatlengthIawokeitseemeda fable that this painted fish swam there so nearmy couch and rose to ourhooks the lasteveningand Idoubted if Ihadnotdreamed it allSo IarosebeforedawntotestitstruthwhilemycompanionswerestillsleepingTherestood Ktaadn with distinct and cloudless outline in the moonlight and theripplingoftherapidswastheonlysoundtobreakthestillnessStandingontheshoreIoncemorecastmylineintothestreamandfoundthedreamtoberealandthefabletrueThespeckledtroutandsilveryroachlikeflying-fishspedswiftly through themoonlight air describingbright arcs on thedark sideofKtaadnuntilmoonlightnowfadingintodaylightbroughtsatietytomymindandthemindsofmycompanionswhohadjoinedmeBy six oclock having mounted our packs and a good blanketful of troutready dressed and swung up such baggage and provision as we wished toleave behind upon the tops of saplings to be out of the reach of bearswestarted for the summit of the mountain distant as Uncle George said theboatmencalled itaboutfourmilesbutasI judgedandas itprovednearerfourteenHehadneverbeenanynearerthemountainthanthisandtherewasnot the slightest trace of man to guide us farther in this direction At firstpushing a few rods up the Aboljacknagesic or open-land stream wefastened our batteau to a tree and traveled up the north side through burntlands nowpartially overgrownwith young aspens and other shrubbery butsoonrecrossingthisstreamwhereitwasaboutfiftyorsixtyfeetwideuponajam of logs and rocksmdashand you could cross it by this means almostanywheremdashwe struck at once for the highest peak over amile ormore ofcomparativelyopenlandstillverygraduallyascendingthewhileHereitfelltomy lot as theoldestmountain-climber to take the leadSo scanning thewoodysideofthemountainwhichlaystillatanindefinitedistancestretchedout some seven or eight miles in length before us we determined to steerdirectlyforthebaseofthehighestpeakleavingalargeslidebywhichasIhave since learned some of our predecessors ascended on our left Thiscoursewouldleadusparallel toadarkseamintheforestwhichmarkedthebedof a torrent andover a slight spurwhichextended southward from themainmountain fromwhose bare summitwe could get an outlook over thecountryandclimbdirectlyup thepeakwhichwould thenbecloseathandSeen from thispoint abare ridgeat theextremityof theopen landKtaadnpresented a different aspect from any mountain I have seen there being agreater proportion of naked rock rising abruptly from the forest and we

looked up at this blue barrier as if it were some fragment of a wall whichanciently bounded the earth in that direction Setting the compass for anortheast coursewhichwas the bearing of the southern base of the highestpeakweweresoonburiedinthewoodsWesoonbegantomeetwith tracesofbearsandmooseandthoseofrabbitswereeverywherevisibleThe tracksofmoosemoreor less recent to speakliterally covered every square rod on the sides of the mountain and theseanimalsareprobablymorenumeroustherenowthaneverbeforebeingdriveninto this wilderness from all sides by the settlements The track of a full-grownmooseis likethatofacoworlargerandoftheyounglikethatofacalfSometimeswe foundourselves traveling in faintpathswhich theyhadmade like cow-paths in the woods only far more indistinct being ratheropenings affording imperfect vistas through the dense underwood thantroddenpathsandeverywherethetwigshadbeenbrowsedbythemclippedassmoothlyasifbyaknifeThebarkoftreeswasstrippedupbythemtotheheightofeightorninefeetinlongnarrowstripsaninchwidestillshowingthedistinctmarksoftheirteethWeexpectednothinglessthantomeetaherdof themeverymoment andourNimrodheldhis shooting-iron in readinessbutwedidnotgooutofourwaytolookforthemandthoughnumeroustheyaresowarythattheunskillfulhuntermightrangetheforestalongtimebeforehe could get sight of one They are sometimes dangerous to encounter andwillnotturnoutforthehunterbutfuriouslyrushuponhimandtramplehimtodeathunlessheisluckyenoughtoavoidthembydodgingroundatreeThelargest are nearly as large as a horse and weigh sometimes one thousandpoundsanditissaidthattheycanstepoverafive-footgateintheirordinarywalkTheyaredescribedasexceedinglyawkward-lookinganimalswiththeirlong legs and short bodiesmaking a ludicrous figurewhen in full run butmakinggreatheadwayneverthelessItseemedamysterytoushowtheycouldthread these woods which it required all our suppleness to accomplishmdashclimbingstoopingandwindingalternatelyTheyaresaidtodroptheirlongandbranchinghornswhichusuallyspreadfiveorsixfeetontheirbacksandmaketheirwayeasilybytheweightoftheirbodiesOurboatmensaidbutIknownotwithhowmuchtruththattheirhornsareapttobegnawedawaybyverminwhiletheysleepTheirfleshwhichismorelikebeefthanvenisoniscommoninBangormarketWehadproceededonthussevenoreightmilestillaboutnoonwithfrequentpauses to refresh the weary ones crossing a considerablemountain streamwhichweconjecturedtobeMurchBrookatwhosemouthwehadcampedallthe time in woods without having once seen the summit and rising verygraduallywhentheboatmenbeginningtodespairalittleandfearingthatwewere leaving themountainononesideofus for theyhadnotentirefaith inthecompassMcCauslinclimbedatreefromthetopofwhichhecouldseethe

peakwhenitappearedthatwehadnotswervedfromarightlinethecompassdownbelowstill rangingwithhisarmwhichpointed to thesummitBy thesideofacoolmountainrillamidthewoodswherethewaterbegantopartakeof the purity and transparency of the air we stopped to cook some of ourfishes which we had brought thus far in order to save our hard-bread andpork intheuseofwhichwehadputourselvesonshortallowanceWesoonhadafireblazingandstoodarounditunderthedampandsombreforestoffirsandbircheseachwithasharpenedstickthreeorfourfeetinlengthuponwhichhehadspittedhistroutorroachpreviouslywellgashedandsaltedoursticksradiatinglikethespokesofawheelfromonecentreandeachcrowdinghisparticularfishintothemostdesirableexposurenotwiththetruestregardalways to his neighbors rights Thus we regaled ourselves drinkingmeanwhile at the spring till one mans pack at least was considerablylightenedwhenweagaintookupourlineofmarchAt lengthwe reached an elevation sufficiently bare to afford a view of thesummitstilldistantandbluealmostasifretreatingfromusAtorrentwhichproved to be the same we had crossed was seen tumbling down in frontliterallyfromoutofthecloudsButthisglimpseatourwhereaboutswassoonlost andwewere buried in thewoods againThewoodwas chiefly yellowbirch spruce firmountain-ash or round-wood as theMainepeople call itand moose-wood It was the worst kind of traveling sometimes like thedensest scrub oak patches with us The cornel or bunch-berries were veryabundant as well as Solomons-seal and moose-berries Blueberries weredistributedalongourwholerouteandinoneplacethebushesweredroopingwiththeweightofthefruitstillasfreshaseverItwasthe7thofSeptemberSuch patches afforded a grateful repast and served to bait the tired partyforwardWhenanylaggedbehindthecryofblueberrieswasmosteffectualto bring them up Even at this elevation we passed through a moose-yardformedbya largeflat rock fouror fiverodssquarewhere they treaddownthesnowinwinterAtlengthfearingthatifweheldthedirectcoursetothesummitweshouldnotfindanywaternearourcamping-groundwegraduallyswerved to thewest tillat fouroclockwestruckagain the torrentwhichIhavementionedandhereinviewofthesummitthewearypartydecidedtocampthatnightWhile my companions were seeking a suitable spot for this purpose IimprovedthelittledaylightthatwasleftinclimbingthemountainaloneWewere in a deep and narrow ravine sloping up to the clouds at an angle ofnearlyforty-fivedegreesandhemmedinbywallsofrockwhichwereatfirstcoveredwithlowtreesthenwithimpenetrablethicketsofscraggybirchesandsprucetreesandwithmossbutatlastbareofallvegetationbutlichensandalmost continually draped in clouds Following up the course of the torrentwhichoccupied thismdashand Imean to laysomeemphasison thiswordupmdash

pullingmyselfupbythesideofperpendicularfallsoftwentyorthirtyfeetbytherootsoffirsandbirchesandthenperhapswalkingalevelrodortwointhethinstreamfor it tookupthewholeroadascendingbyhugestepsas itwere a giants stairway downwhich a river flowed I had soon cleared thetreesandpausedonthesuccessiveshelvestolookbackoverthecountryThetorrentwasfromfifteentothirtyfeetwidewithoutatributaryandseeminglynotdiminishinginbreadthasIadvancedbutstillitcamerushingandroaringdownwithacopioustideoverandamidstmassesofbarerockfromtheverycloudsasthoughawaterspouthadjustburstoverthemountainLeavingthisat lastIbegantoworkmywayscarcelylessarduousthanSatansancientlythroughChaosupthenearestthoughnotthehighestpeakAtfirstscramblingonallfoursoverthetopsofancientblacksprucetrees(Abiesnigra)oldastheflood fromtwoto tenor twelvefeet inheight their topsflatandspreadingandtheirfoliageblueandnippedwithcoldasifforcenturiestheyhadceasedgrowingupwardagainstthebleakskythesolidcoldIwalkedsomegoodrodserect upon the tops of these trees which were overgrown with moss andmountaincranberries Itseemedthat in thecourseof timetheyhadfilleduptheintervalsbetweenthehugerocksandthecoldwindhaduniformlyleveledall over Here the principle of vegetation was hard put to it There wasapparently a belt of this kind running quite round the mountain thoughperhaps nowhere so remarkable as here Once slumping through I lookeddowntenfeetintoadarkandcavernousregionandsawthestemofaspruceonwhosetopIstoodasonamassofcoarsebasket-workfullynineinchesindiameteratthegroundTheseholeswerebearsdensandthebearswereeventhenathomeThiswasthesortofgardenImademywayoverforaneighthofamileattheriskitistrueoftreadingonsomeoftheplantsnotseeinganypath through itmdashcertainly the most treacherous and porous country I evertraveledNighfounderedonhefaresTreadingthecrudeconsistencehalfonfootHalfflyingButnothingcouldexceedthetoughnessofthetwigsmdashnotonesnappedundermyweight for they had slowly grownHaving slumped scrambled rolledbounced and walked by turns over this scraggy country I arrived upon aside-hill or rather side-mountain where rocks gray silent rocks were theflocksandherdsthatpasturedchewingarockycudatsunsetTheylookedatmewithhardgrayeyeswithoutableatoralowThisbroughtmetotheskirtofacloudandboundedmywalkthatnightButIhadalreadyseenthatMainecountrywhenIturnedaboutwavingflowingripplingdownbelowWhen I returned tomycompanions theyhadselectedacamping-groundonthe torrents edge andwere restingon theground onewason the sick list

rolledinablanketonadampshelfofrockItwasasavageanddrearysceneryenoughsowildlyroughthattheylookedlongtofindalevelandopenspacefor the tentWe couldnotwell camphigher forwant of fuel and the treeshere seemed so evergreen and sappy thatwe almost doubted if theywouldacknowledgetheinfluenceoffirebutfireprevailedat lastandblazedheretoolikeagoodcitizenoftheworldEvenatthisheightwemetwithfrequenttracesofmooseaswellasofbearsAsherewasnocedarwemadeourbedofcoarser feathered spruce but at any rate the featherswereplucked from thelive tree ItwasperhapsevenamoregrandanddesolateplaceforanightslodgingthanthesummitwouldhavebeenbeingintheneighborhoodofthosewildtreesandofthetorrentSomemoreaeumlrialandfiner-spiritedwindsrushedand roared through the ravineallnight from time to timearousingour fireanddispersingtheembersaboutItwasasifwelayintheverynestofayoungwhirlwindAtmidnightoneofmybed-fellowsbeingstartled inhisdreamsby the sudden blazing up to its top of a fir treewhose green boughsweredriedbytheheatsprangupwithacryfromhisbed thinkingtheworldonfireanddrewthewholecampafterhimInthemorningafterwhettingourappetiteonsomerawporkawaferofhard-breadandadipperofcondensedcloudorwaterspoutwealltogetherbegantomakeourwayupthefallswhichIhavedescribedthistimechoosingtherighthand or highest peakwhichwas not the one I had approached beforeButsoonmycompanionswerelosttomysightbehindthemountainridgeinmyrearwhich still seemedever retreatingbeforemeand I climbedaloneoverhugerockslooselypoisedamileormorestilledgingtowardthecloudsforthoughthedaywasclearelsewhere thesummitwasconcealedbymistThemountain seemed a vast aggregation of loose rocks as if some time it hadrainedrocksandtheylayastheyfellonthemountainsidesnowherefairlyatrestbut leaningoneachotherall rockingstoneswithcavitiesbetweenbutscarcelyanysoilorsmoothershelfTheywere therawmaterialsofaplanetdropped from an unseen quarry which the vast chemistry of nature wouldanonworkuporworkdownintothesmilingandverdantplainsandvalleysofearthThiswasanundoneextremityoftheglobeasinligniteweseecoalintheprocessofformationAtlengthIenteredwithintheskirtsofthecloudwhichseemedforeverdriftingoverthesummitandyetwouldneverbegonebutwasgeneratedoutofthatpure air as fast as it flowed away andwhen a quarter of amile farther Ireachedthesummitoftheridgewhichthosewhohaveseeninclearerweathersayisaboutfivemileslongandcontainsathousandacresoftable-landIwasdeepwithinthehostileranksofcloudsandallobjectswereobscuredbythemNowthewindwouldblowmeoutayardofclearsunlightwherein I stoodthen a gray dawning light was all it could accomplish the cloud-line everrising and falling with the winds intensity Sometimes it seemed as if the

summitwouldbeclearedinafewmomentsandsmileinsunshinebutwhatwasgainedononesidewas lostonanother Itwas likesitting inachimneyandwaiting for the smoke to blow away Itwas in fact a cloud-factorymdashthesewerethecloud-worksandthewindturnedthemoffdonefromthecoolbare rocksOccasionallywhen thewindycolumnsbroke in tome I caughtsight of a dark damp crag to the right or left themist driving ceaselesslybetween it and me It reminded me of the creations of the old epic anddramatic poets of Atlas Vulcan the Cyclops and Prometheus Such wasCaucasusandtherockwherePrometheuswasboundAEligschylushadnodoubtvisited such scenery as this It was vast Titanic and such as man neverinhabits Some part of the beholder even some vital part seems to escapethroughtheloosegratingofhisribsasheascendsHeismorelonethanyoucanimagineThereislessofsubstantialthoughtandfairunderstandinginhimthan in the plainswheremen inhabitHis reason is dispersed and shadowymorethinandsubtileliketheairVastTitanicinhumanNaturehasgothimatdisadvantagecaughthimaloneandpilfershimofsomeofhisdivinefacultyShe does not smile on him as in the plains She seems to say sternlyWhycameyeherebeforeyourtimeThisgroundisnotpreparedforyouIsitnotenoughthatIsmileinthevalleysIhavenevermadethissoilforthyfeetthisair for thybreathing these rocks for thyneighbors I cannotpitynor fondletheeherebutforeverrelentlesslydrivetheehencetowhereIamkindWhyseekmewhereIhavenotcalledtheeandthencomplainbecauseyoufindmebut a stepmother Shouldst thou freeze or starve or shudder thy life awayhereisnoshrinenoraltarnoranyaccesstomyearChaosandancientNightIcomenospyWithpurposetoexploreortodisturbThesecretsofyourrealmbutasmywayLiesthroughyourspaciousempireuptolightThetopsofmountainsareamongtheunfinishedpartsoftheglobewhitheritisaslight insult to thegods toclimbandpry into theirsecretsand try theireffect on our humanityOnly daring and insolentmen perchance go thereSimpleracesassavagesdonotclimbmountainsmdashtheirtopsaresacredandmysterious tracts never visited by them Pomola is always angrywith thosewhoclimbtothesummitofKtaadnAccordingtoJacksonwhoinhiscapacityofgeologicalsurveyoroftheStatehasaccuratelymeasureditthealtitudeofKtaadnis5300feetoralittlemorethanonemileabovetheleveloftheseaandheaddsItisthenevidentlythehighestpointintheStateofMaineandisthemostabruptgranitemountaininNewEnglandThepeculiarities of that spacious table-landonwhich Iwas

standing as well as the remarkable semicircular precipice or basin on theeasternsidewereallconcealedbythemistIhadbroughtmywholepacktothe topnotknowingbutIshouldhavetomakemydescent to theriverandpossiblytothesettledportionoftheStatealoneandbysomeotherrouteandwishing to have a complete outfit with me But at length fearing that mycompanionswould be anxious to reach the river before night and knowingthat the clouds might rest on the mountain for days I was compelled todescendOccasionallyasIcamedownthewindwouldblowmeavistaopenthroughwhichIcouldseethecountryeastwardboundlessforestsandlakesand streams gleaming in the sun some of them emptying into the EastBranchTherewere also newmountains in sight in that directionNowandthensomesmallbirdofthesparrowfamilywouldflitawaybeforemeunabletocommanditscourselikeafragmentofthegrayrockblownoffbythewindI found my companions where I had left them on the side of the peakgathering the mountain cranberries which filled every crevice between therockstogetherwithblueberrieswhichhadaspicierflavorthehigheruptheygrew but were not the less agreeable to our palates When the country issettledandroadsaremade thesecranberrieswillperhapsbecomeanarticleofcommerceFrom thiselevation juston the skirtsof thecloudswecouldoverlook thecountrywestandsouth forahundredmilesThere itwas theState ofMaine which we had seen on the map but not much like thatmdashimmeasurable forest for the sun to shineon that eastern stuffwehearof inMassachusettsNoclearingnohouseItdidnot lookasifasolitarytravelerhadcutsomuchasawalking-stickthereCountlesslakesmdashMooseheadinthesouthwest fortymiles longby tenwide likeagleamingsilverplatterat theendofthetableChesuncookeighteenlongbythreewidewithoutanislandMillinocket on the south with its hundred islands and a hundred otherswithout a name and mountains also whose names for the most part areknownonlytotheIndiansTheforestlookedlikeafirmgrassswardandtheeffectoftheselakesinitsmidsthasbeenwellcomparedbyonewhohassincevisitedthissamespot tothatofamirrorbrokenintoathousandfragmentsandwildlyscatteredoverthegrassreflectingthefullblazeofthesunItwasa largefarmforsomebodywhenclearedAccordingto theGazetteerwhichwas printed before the boundary questionwas settled this single PenobscotCountyinwhichwewerewaslargerthanthewholeStateofVermontwithitsfourteencountiesandthiswasonlyapartofthewildlandsofMaineWeareconcernednowhoweveraboutnaturalnotpoliticallimitsWewereabouteightymilesasthebirdfliesfromBangororonehundredandfifteenaswehad ridden andwalked and paddledWehad to console ourselveswith thereflectionthatthisviewwasprobablyasgoodasthatfromthepeakasfarasit went and what were a mountain without its attendant clouds andmistsLikeourselvesneitherBaileynorJacksonhadobtainedaclearviewfromthe

summitSetting out on our return to the river still at an early hour in the day wedecided to followthecourseof the torrentwhichwesupposed tobeMurchBrookaslongasitwouldnotleadustoofaroutofourwayWethustraveledaboutfourmilesintheverytorrentitselfcontinuallycrossingandrecrossingitleapingfromrocktorockandjumpingwiththestreamdownfallsofsevenoreightfeetorsometimesslidingdownonourbacksinathinsheetofwaterThis ravine had been the scene of an extraordinary freshet in the springapparentlyaccompaniedbyaslidefromthemountainItmusthavebeenfilledwithastreamofstonesandwateratleasttwentyfeetabovethepresentlevelof the torrentFora rodor twooneither sideof its channel the treeswerebarked and splintered up to their tops the birches bent over twisted andsometimesfinelysplitlikeastable-broomsomeafootindiametersnappedoff andwhole clumps of trees bent overwith theweight of rocks piled onthem In one placewe noticed a rock two or three feet in diameter lodgednearly twenty feethigh in thecrotchof a treeFor thewhole fourmileswesaw but one rill emptying in and the volume of water did not seem to beincreased from the first We traveled thus very rapidly with a downwardimpetusandgrewremarkablyexpertatleapingfromrocktorockforleapwemustandleapwedidwhethertherewasanyrockattherightdistanceornotItwas apleasantpicturewhen the foremost turnedabout and lookedup thewindingravinewalledinwithrocksandthegreenforesttoseeatintervalsofarodortwoared-shirtedorgreen-jacketedmountaineeragainstthewhitetorrentleapingdownthechannelwithhispackonhisbackorpausinguponaconvenient rock in themidst of the torrent tomend a rent inhis clothes orunstrapthedipperathisbelt totakeadraughtofthewaterAtoneplacewewerestartledbyseeingona littlesandyshelfby thesideof thestream thefreshprintofamansfootandforamomentrealizedhowRobinsonCrusoefeltinasimilarcasebutatlastwerememberedthatwehadstruckthisstreamonourwayupthoughwecouldnothavetoldwhereandonehaddescendedintotheravineforadrinkThecoolairaboveandthecontinualbathingofourbodiesinmountainwateralternatefootsitzdoucheandplungebathsmadethiswalkexceedinglyrefreshingandwehadtraveledonlyamileortwoafterleaving the torrent before every thread of our clotheswas as dry as usualowingperhapstoapeculiarqualityintheatmosphereAfter leaving the torrent being indoubt aboutour courseTom threwdownhispackatthefootoftheloftiestsprucetreeathandandshinnedupthebaretrunksometwentyfeetandthenclimbedthroughthegreentowerlosttooursightuntilheheld the topmost spray inhishandMcCauslin inhisyoungerdays had marched through the wilderness with a body of troops underGeneralSomebody andwithoneothermandid all the scouting and spyingserviceTheGeneralswordwasThrowdownthetopofthattreeandthere

wasnotree in theMainewoodssohighthat itdidnot lose its top insuchacaseIhaveheardastoryoftwomenbeinglostonceinthesewoodsnearertothesettlementsthanthiswhoclimbedtheloftiestpinetheycouldfindsomesixfeetindiameteratthegroundfromwhosetoptheydiscoveredasolitaryclearinganditssmokeWhenatthisheightsometwohundredfeetfromthegroundoneofthembecamedizzyandfaintedinhiscompanionsarmsandthe latter had to accomplish the descent with him alternately fainting andrevivingasbesthecouldToTomwecried Whereawaydoes thesummitbearwheretheburntlandsThelasthecouldonlyconjecturehedescriedhowever a littlemeadowandpond lyingprobably inour coursewhichweconcluded to steer for On reaching this secluded meadow we found freshtracksofmooseontheshoreofthepondandthewaterwasstillunsettledasiftheyhad fledbeforeusA little farther inadense thicketwe seemed tobestillontheirtrailItwasasmallmeadowofafewacresonthemountain-sideconcealedbytheforestandperhapsneverseenbyawhitemanbeforewhereonewould think that themoosemight browse and bathe and rest in peacePursuing this course we soon reached the open land which went slopingdownsomemilestowardthePenobscotPerhaps I most fully realized that this was primeval untamed and foreveruntamableNatureorwhateverelsemencallitwhilecomingdownthispartof the mountainWe were passing over Burnt Lands burnt by lightningperchance thoughtheyshowednorecentmarksoffirehardlysomuchasacharredstumpbutlookedratherlikeanaturalpastureforthemooseanddeerexceedinglywildanddesolatewithoccasionalstripsoftimbercrossingthemand low poplars springing up and patches of blueberries here and there Ifoundmyself traversing them familiarly like some pasture run towaste orpartially reclaimedbymanbutwhen I reflectedwhatmanwhatbrotherorsisterorkinsmanofourracemadeitandclaimeditIexpectedtheproprietorto rise up and dispute my passage It is difficult to conceive of a regionuninhabited by man We habitually presume his presence and influenceeverywhereAndyetwehavenotseenpureNatureunlesswehaveseenherthus vast and drear and inhuman though in themidst of citiesNaturewasheresomethingsavageandawful thoughbeautifulI lookedwithaweat thegroundItrodontoseewhatthePowershadmadetheretheformandfashionandmaterialoftheirworkThiswasthatEarthofwhichwehaveheardmadeoutofChaosandOldNightHerewasnomansgardenbuttheunhandseledglobe It was not lawn nor pasture nor mead nor woodland nor lea norarablenorwastelandItwasthefreshandnaturalsurfaceoftheplanetEarthas it wasmade forever and evermdashto be the dwelling of man we saymdashsoNaturemadeitandmanmayuseit ifhecanManwasnot tobeassociatedwithitItwasMattervastterrificmdashnothisMotherEarththatwehaveheardof not for him to tread on or be buried inmdashno itwere being too familiar

eventolethisboneslietheremdashthehomethisofNecessityandFateTherewasclearlyfeltthepresenceofaforcenotboundtobekindtomanItwasaplaceforheathenismandsuperstitiousritesmdashtobeinhabitedbymennearerofkintotherocksandtowildanimalsthanweWewalkedoveritwithacertainawe stopping from time to time to pick the blueberrieswhich grew thereandhada smart and spicy tastePerchancewhereourwildpines stand andleaves lie on their forest floor in Concord there were once reapers andhusbandmenplantedgrainbutherenoteventhesurfacehadbeenscarredbymanbutitwasaspecimenofwhatGodsawfittomakethisworldWhatisittobe admitted to amuseum to see amyriadof particular things comparedwithbeingshownsomestarssurfacesomehardmatterinitshomeIstandinaweofmybody thismatter towhich Iamboundhasbecomesostrange tomeIfearnotspiritsghostsofwhichIamonemdashthatmybodymightmdashbutIfearbodiesItrembletomeetthemWhatisthisTitanthathaspossessionofmeTalkofmysteriesThinkofourlifeinnaturemdashdailytobeshownmattertocomeincontactwithitmdashrockstreeswindonourcheeksthesolidearththeactualworld thecommonsenseContactContactWhoarewewhereareweErelongwerecognizedsomerocksandotherfeaturesinthelandscapewhichwehadpurposely impressedonourmemoriesandquickeningourpacebytwooclockwereachedthebatteauHerewehadexpectedtodineontroutbutinthisglaringsunlighttheywereslowtotakethebaitsowewerecompelledtomakethemostof thecrumbsofourhard-breadandourporkwhichwereboth nearly exhaustedMeanwhilewe deliberatedwhetherwe should go uptheriveramilefarthertoGibsonsclearingontheSowadnehunkwheretherewasadesertedloghut inorder togetahalf-inchauger tomendoneofourspike-poleswith Therewere young spruce trees enough around us andwehad a spare spike but nothing tomake a holewithBut as itwas uncertainwhetherweshouldfindanytoolslefttherewepatchedupthebrokenpoleaswellaswecouldforthedownwardvoyageinwhichtherewouldbebutlittleuseforitMoreoverwewereunwillingtoloseanytimeinthisexpeditionlestthewindshouldrisebeforewereached the larger lakesanddetainus foramoderatewindproducesquiteaseaon thesewaters inwhichabatteauwillnot live for amoment and on one occasionMcCauslin had been delayed aweekattheheadoftheNorthTwinwhichisonlyfourmilesacrossWewerenearly out of provisions and ill prepared in this respect for what mightpossibly prove a weeks journey round by the shore fording innumerablestreams and threading a trackless forest should any accident happen to ourboatItwaswithregretthatweturnedourbacksonChesuncookwhichMcCauslinhadformerlyloggedonandtheAllegashlakesTherewerestilllongerrapidsandportagesaboveamongthelasttheRipogenusPortagewhichhedescribed

asthemostdifficultontheriverandthreemileslongThewholelengthofthePenobscotistwohundredandseventy-fivemilesandwearestillnearlyonehundredmilesfromitssourceHodgetheAssistantStateGeologistpassedupthisriverin1837andbyaportageofonlyonemileandthreequarterscrossedover into theAllegash and sowentdown that into theSt John andup theMadawaskato theGrandPortageacross to theStLawrenceHis is theonlyaccountthatIknowofanexpeditionthroughtoCanadainthisdirectionHethusdescribeshisfirstsightofthelatterriverwhichtocomparesmallthingswithgreatislikeBalboasfirstsightofthePacificfromthemountainsoftheIsthmusofDarienWhenwefirstcameinsightoftheStLawrencehesaysfrom the top of a high hill the view was most striking and much moreinterestingtomefromhavingbeenshutupinthewoodsforthetwopreviousmonthsDirectly before us lay the broad river extending across nine or tenmiles its surfacebrokenbya few islandsand reefs and twoships ridingatanchorneartheshoreBeyondextendedrangesofuncultivatedhillsparallelwith the river The sun was just going down behind them and gilding thewholescenewithitspartingraysAbout four oclock the same afternoon we commenced our return voyagewhichwould requirebut little if anypoling In shooting rapids theboatmenuselargeandbroadpaddlesinsteadofpolestoguidetheboatwithThoughweglidedsoswiftlyandoftensmoothlydownwhereithadcostusnoslightefforttogetupourpresentvoyagewasattendedwithfarmoredangerforifweoncefairlystruckoneofthethousandrocksbywhichweweresurroundedthe boat would be swamped in an instantWhen a boat is swamped underthese circumstances the boatmen commonly find no difficulty in keepingafloat at first for the current keepsboth themand their cargoup for a longwaydownthestreamandiftheycanswimtheyhaveonlytoworktheirwaygradually to the shore The greatest danger is of being caught in an eddybehind some larger rock where the water rushes up stream faster thanelsewhereitdoesdownandbeingcarriedroundandroundunderthesurfacetilltheyaredrownedMcCauslinpointedoutsomerockswhichhadbeenthesceneofafatalaccidentofthiskindSometimesthebodyisnotthrownoutforseveral hours He himself had performed such a circuit once only his legsbeingvisibletohiscompanionsbuthewasfortunatelythrownoutinseasontorecoverhisbreathInshootingtherapidstheboatmanhasthisproblemtosolve tochooseacircuitousandsafecourseamida thousandsunken rocksscattered over a quarter or half a mile at the same time that he is movingsteadily on at the rate of fifteen miles an hour Stop he cannot the onlyquestion iswherewill he goThe bowman chooses the coursewith all hiseyes abouthim strikingbroadoffwithhispaddle anddrawing theboatbymainforceintohercourseThesternmanfaithfullyfollowsthebowWeweresoonattheAboljacarmegusFallsAnxioustoavoidthedelayaswell

as the labor of the portage here our boatmen went forward first toreconnoitre and concluded to let the batteau down the falls carrying thebaggageonlyovertheportageJumpingfromrocktorockuntilnearlyinthemiddleofthestreamwewerereadytoreceivetheboatandletherdownoverthefirstfallsomesixorsevenfeetperpendicularTheboatmenstandupontheedgeofashelfofrockwherethefallisperhapsnineortenfeetperpendicularinfromonetotwofeetofrapidwateroneoneachsideoftheboatandletitslide gently over till the bow is run out ten or twelve feet in the air thenlettingitdropsquarelywhileoneholdsthepaintertheotherleapsinandhiscompanion following they are whirled down the rapids to a new fall or tosmooth water In a very few minutes they had accomplished a passage insafetywhichwouldbeasfoolhardyfortheunskillfultoattemptasthedescentofNiagaraitselfItseemedasifitneededonlyalittlefamiliarityandalittlemore skill to navigatedown such falls asNiagara itselfwith safetyAt anyrateIshouldnotdespairofsuchmenintherapidsaboveTableRockuntilIsaw them actually go over the falls so cool so collected so fertile inresourcesaretheyOnemighthavethoughtthatthesewerefallsandthatfallswerenot tobewaded throughwith impunity like amud-puddleTherewasreallydangeroftheirlosingtheirsublimityinlosingtheirpowertoharmusFamiliaritybreedscontemptTheboatmanpausesperchanceon someshelfbeneatha table-rockunder the fall standing in somecoveofbackwater twofeet deep and you hear his rough voice come up through the spray coollygivingdirectionshowtolaunchtheboatthistimeHaving carried roundPockwockomusFalls ouroars soonbrought us to theKatepskoneganorOakHallcarrywherewedecidedtocamphalf-wayoverleavingourbatteautobecarriedoverinthemorningonfreshshouldersOneshoulder of each of the boatmen showed a red spot as large as ones handwornbythebatteauonthisexpeditionandthisshoulderasitdidalltheworkwasperceptiblylowerthanitsfellowfromlongserviceSuchtoilsoonwearsoutthestrongestconstitutionThedriversareaccustomedtoworkinthecoldwater in the spring rarely ever dry and if one falls in all over he rarelychangeshisclothes tillnight if thenevenOnewhotakes thisprecautioniscalledbyaparticularnicknameoristurnedoffNonecanleadthislifewhoarenotalmostamphibiousMcCauslinsaidsoberlywhatisatanyrateagoodstorytotellthathehadseenwheresixmenwerewhollyunderwateratonceatajamwiththeirshoulderstohandspikesIfthelogdidnotstartthentheyhadtoputouttheirheadstobreatheThedriverworksaslongashecanseefrom dark to dark and at night has not time to eat his supper and dry hisclothes fairlybeforehe isasleeponhiscedarbedWe lay thatnighton theverybedmadebysuchapartystretchingourtentoverthepoleswhichwerestillstandingbutre-shinglingthedampandfadedbedwithfreshleavesInthemorningwecarriedourboatoverandlauncheditmakinghastelestthe

wind should rise The boatmen ran down Passamagamet and soon afterAmbejijisFallswhilewewalkedroundwith thebaggageWemadeahastybreakfast at the head of Ambejijis Lake on the remainder of our pork andwere soon rowingacross its smooth surface again under apleasant sky themountainbeingnowclearofcloudsinthenortheastTakingturnsattheoarsweshotrapidlyacrossDeepCove thefootofPamadumcookandtheNorthTwin at the rate of six miles an hour the wind not being high enough todisturbusand reached theDamatnoonTheboatmenwent throughoneofthe log sluices in thebatteauwhere the fallwas ten feet at thebottomandtookus inbelowHerewasthe longestrapid inourvoyageandperhaps therunning this was as dangerous and arduous a task as any Shooting downsometimesat the rate aswe judgedof fifteenmilesanhour ifwestruckarockweweresplitfromendtoendinaninstantNowlikeabaitbobbingforsome rivermonster amid theeddiesnowdarting to this sideof the streamnowtothatglidingswiftandsmoothneartoourdestructionorstrikingbroadoffwiththepaddleanddrawingtheboattorightorleftwithallourmightinordertoavoidarockIsupposethatitwaslikerunningtherapidsoftheSaultSainte Marie at the outlet of Lake Superior and our boatmen probablydisplayednolessdexteritythantheIndianstheredoWesoonranthroughthismileandfloatedinQuakishLakeAftersuchavoyage the troubledandangrywaterswhichoncehadseemedterribleandnottobetrifledwithappearedtamedandsubduedtheyhadbeenbeardedandworried in theirchannelsprickedandwhipped intosubmissionwiththespike-poleandpaddlegonethroughandthroughwithimpunityandall their spiritand theirdanger takenoutof themand themost swollenandimpetuous rivers seemed but playthings henceforth I began at length tounderstand the boatmans familiarity with and contempt for the rapidsThoseFowlerboyssaidMrsMcCauslinareperfectducksforthewaterThey had run down to Lincoln according to her thirty or fortymiles in abatteauinthenightforadoctorwhenitwassodarkthattheycouldnotseearodbefore them and the riverwas swollen so as to be almost a continuousrapidsothatthedoctorcriedwhentheybroughthimupbydaylightWhyTom how did you see to steer We didnt steer muchmdashonly kept herstraight And yet they met with no accident It is true the more difficultrapidsarehigherupthanthisWhenwereachedtheMillinocketoppositetoTomshouseandwerewaitingforhisfolkstosetusovermdashforwehadleftourbatteauabovetheGrandFallsmdashwe discovered two canoeswith twomen in each turning up this streamfromShadPond one keeping the opposite side of a small island before uswhile theotherapproached the sidewherewewere standing examining thebankscarefullyformuskratsastheycamealongThelastprovedtobeLouisNeptuneandhiscompanionnowatlastontheirwayuptoChesuncookafter

moose but they were so disguised that we hardly knew them At a littledistance theymight havebeen taken forQuakerswith their broad-brimmedhatsandovercoatswithbroadcapesthespoilsofBangorseekingasettlementin thisSylvaniamdashornearerathand for fashionablegentlemen themorningafteraspreeMetfacetofacetheseIndiansintheirnativewoodslookedlikethe sinister and slouching fellows whom you meet picking up strings andpaper in the streetsof a cityThere is in fact a remarkable andunexpectedresemblance between the degraded savage and the lowest classes in a greatcityTheone is nomore a childof nature than theother In theprogressofdegradation the distinction of races is soon lost Neptune at first was onlyanxioustoknowwhatwekillseeingsomepartridgesinthehandsofoneofthepartybutwehadassumedtoomuchangertopermitofareplyWethoughtIndianshadsomehonorbeforeButmdashMebeensickOhmeunwellnowYoumake bargain then me go They had in fact been delayed so long by adrunken frolic at the Five Islands and they had not yet recovered from itseffectsTheyhadsomeyoungmusquashintheircanoeswhichtheydugoutof thebankswithahoe for foodnot for theirskins formusquashare theirprincipalfoodontheseexpeditionsSotheywentonuptheMillinocketandwe kept down the bank of the Penobscot after recruiting ourselves with adraughtofTomsbeerleavingTomathishomeThus aman shall lead his life away here on the edge of thewilderness onIndianMillinocketStreaminanewworldfarinthedarkofacontinentandhaveaflutetoplayateveningherewhilehisstrainsechotothestarsamidthehowlingofwolvesshallliveasitwereintheprimitiveageoftheworlda primitivemanYet he shall spend a sunnyday and in this centurybemycontemporary perchance shall read some scattered leaves of literature andsometimes talk with me Why read history then if the ages and thegenerationsarenowHelivesthreethousandyearsdeepintotimeanagenotyetdescribedbypoetsCanyouwellgofurtherbackinhistorythanthisAyaymdashfor there turnsupbutnowinto themouthofMillinocketStreamastillmoreancientandprimitivemanwhosehistory isnotbroughtdowneven totheformerInabarkvesselsewnwiththerootsofthesprucewithhorn-beampaddleshedipshiswayalongHeisbutdimandmisty tomeobscuredbytheaeligonsthatliebetweenthebarkcanoeandthebatteauHebuildsnohouseof logs but a wigwam of skins He eats no hot bread and sweet cake butmusquashandmoosemeatandthefatofbearsHeglidesuptheMillinocketand is lost tomysight asamoredistantandmistycloud is seen flittingbybehindanearerandislostinspaceSohegoesabouthisdestinytheredfaceofmanAfter having passed the night and buttered our boots for the last time atUncle Georges whose dogs almost devoured him for joy at his return wekeptondowntheriverthenextdayabouteightmilesonfootandthentooka

batteauwithamantopoleit toMattawamkeagtenmoreAtthemiddleofthat very night tomake a swift conclusion to a long storywedroppedourbuggyoverthehalf-finishedbridgeatOldtownwhereweheardtheconfuseddinandclinkofahundredsawswhichneverrestandatsixoclockthenextmorningoneofthepartywassteaminghiswaytoMassachusettsWhat ismost striking in theMainewilderness is the continuousness of theforestwithfeweropenintervalsorgladesthanyouhadimaginedExceptthefewburnt lands thenarrowintervalson the rivers thebare topsof thehighmountains and the lakes and streams the forest is uninterrupted It is evenmoregrimandwildthanyouhadanticipatedadampandintricatewildernessin thespringeverywherewetandmiryTheaspectof thecountry indeed isuniversally stern and savage excepting the distant views of the forest fromhills and the lakeprospectswhich aremild and civilizing in a degreeThelakes are something which you are unprepared for they lie up so highexposed to the light and the forest is diminished to a fine fringe on theiredgeswithhereand thereabluemountain likeamethyst jewels set aroundsomejewelofthefirstwatermdashsoanteriorsosuperiortoallthechangesthataretotakeplaceontheirshoresevennowcivilandrefinedandfairastheycaneverbeThesearenot theartificial forestsof anEnglishkingmdasha royalpreserve merely Here prevail no forest laws but those of nature TheaborigineshaveneverbeendispossessednornaturedisforestedIt is a country full of evergreen trees of mossy silver birches and waterymaples the ground dotted with insipid small red berries and strewn withdampandmoss-grown rocksmdashacountrydiversifiedwith innumerable lakesand rapid streams peopled with trout and various species of leucisci withsalmon shad and pickerel and other fishes the forest resounding at rareintervalswiththenoteofthechickadeethebluejayandthewoodpeckerthescreamofthefishhawkandtheeaglethelaughoftheloonandthewhistleofducks along the solitary streams at night with the hooting of owls andhowling of wolves in summer swarming with myriads of black flies andmosquitoesmoreformidablethanwolvestothewhitemanSuchisthehomeofthemoosethebearthecaribouthewolfthebeaverandtheIndianWhoshalldescribetheinexpressibletendernessandimmortallifeofthegrimforestwhereNaturethoughitbemidwinter iseverinherspringwherethemoss-grownanddecayingtreesarenotoldbutseemtoenjoyaperpetualyouthandblissful innocentNature likea serene infant is toohappy tomakeanoiseexceptbyafewtinklinglispingbirdsandtricklingrillsWhataplacetolivewhataplacetodieandbeburiedinTherecertainlymenwouldliveforeverandlaughatdeathandthegraveTheretheycouldhavenosuchthoughtsasareassociatedwiththevillagegraveyardmdashthatmakeagraveoutofoneofthosemoistevergreenhummocks

DieandbeburiedwhowillImeantoliveherestillMynaturegrowsevermoreyoungTheprimitivepinesamongIamremindedbymyjourneyhowexceedinglynewthiscountrystillisYouhaveonlytotravelforafewdaysintotheinteriorandbackpartsevenofmanyof the old States to come to that very America which the Northmen andCabotandGosnoldandSmithandRaleighvisitedIfColumbuswasthefirsttodiscovertheislandsAmericusVespuciusandCabotandthePuritansandwetheirdescendantshavediscoveredonlytheshoresofAmericaWhiletheRepublichasalreadyacquiredahistoryworld-wideAmericaisstillunsettledandunexploredLiketheEnglishinNewHollandweliveonlyontheshoresofacontinentevenyetandhardlyknowwhere theriverscomefromwhichfloatournavyTheverytimberandboardsandshinglesofwhichourhousesaremadegrewbutyesterdayinawildernesswheretheIndianstillhuntsandthemoose runswildNewYorkhasherwildernesswithinherownbordersand though the sailors of Europe are familiar with the soundings of herHudsonandFultonlongsinceinventedthesteamboatonitswatersanIndianis still necessary to guide her scientific men to its headwaters in theAdirondackcountryHaveweevensomuchasdiscoveredandsettledtheshoresLetamantravelonfootalongthecoastfromthePassamaquoddytotheSabineortotheRioBravo or to wherever the end is now if he is swift enough to overtake itfaithfully following the windings of every inlet and of every cape andsteppingtothemusicofthesurfmdashwithadesolatefishingtownonceaweekandacitysportonceamonthtocheerhimandputtingupatthelighthouseswhen there are anymdashand tell me if it looks like a discovered and settledcountryandnotratherforthemostpartlikeadesolateislandandNo-MansLandWehaveadvancedbyleapstothePacificandleftmanyalesserOregonandCaliforniaunexploredbehindusThoughtherailroadandthe telegraphhavebeen establishedon the shores ofMaine the Indian still looks out fromherinteriormountainsoverall these to theseaTherestands thecityofBangorfiftymilesupthePenobscotattheheadofnavigationforvesselsofthelargestclasstheprincipallumberdepotonthiscontinentwithapopulationoftwelvethousandlikeastarontheedgeofnightstillhewingattheforestsofwhichitisbuiltalreadyoverflowingwiththeluxuriesandrefinementofEuropeandsending its vessels to Spain to England and to the West Indies for itsgroceriesmdashandyetonlyafewaxemenhavegoneupriverintothehowlingwildernesswhichfeedsitThebearanddeerarestillfoundwithinits limits

andthemooseasheswimsthePenobscotisentangledamiditsshippingandtakenbyforeignsailorsinitsharborTwelvemilesinthereartwelvemilesofrailroadareOronoandtheIndianIslandthehomeofthePenobscottribeandthen commence the batteau and the canoe and themilitary road and sixtymilesabovethecountryisvirtuallyunmappedandunexploredandtherestillwavesthevirginforestoftheNewWorld

CHESUNCOOK

AtfiveSeptember131853IleftBostoninthesteamerforBangorbytheoutsidecourseItwasawarmandstillnightmdashwarmerprobablyonthewaterthan on the landmdashand the sea was as smooth as a small lake in summermerelyrippledThepassengerswentsingingonthedeckasinaparlortilltenoclock We passed a vessel on her beam-ends on a rock just outside theislandsandsomeofusthoughtthatshewastheraptshipwhichranonhersidesolowThatshedrankwaterandherkeelploughedairnot considering that therewas nowind and that shewas under bare polesNowwe have left the islands behind and are off NahantWe behold thosefeatureswhich the discoverers saw apparently unchanged Nowwe see theCape Ann lights and now pass near a small village-like fleet of mackerelfishers at anchor probablyoffGloucesterThey saluteuswith a shout fromtheir lowdecks but I understand their Good-evening tomean Dont runagainstme sir From thewonders of the deepwe go below to yet deepersleepAnd then theabsurdityofbeingwakedup in thenightbyamanwhowants the jobofblackingyourboots It ismore inevitable thanseasicknessand may have something to do with it It is like the ducking you get oncrossingthelinethefirsttimeItrustedthattheseoldcustomswereabolishedTheymightwith the samepropriety insist onblackingyour face I heardofonemanwhocomplainedthatsomebodyhadstolenhisbootsinthenightandwhenhefoundthemhewantedtoknowwhattheyhaddonetothemmdashtheyhad spoiled themmdashhe never put that stuff on them and the bootblacknarrowlyescapedpayingdamagesAnxioustogetoutofthewhalesbellyIroseearlyandjoinedsomeoldsaltswhoweresmokingbyadimlightonashelteredpartofthedeckWewerejustgetting into the riverTheyknewall about itofcourse Iwasproud to findthat I had stood the voyage so well andwas not in the least digestedWebrushedupandwatchedthefirstsignsofdawnthroughanopenportbutthedayseemedtohangfireWeinquiredthetimenoneofmycompanionshada

chronometer At length an African prince rushed by observing TwelveoclockgentlemenandblewoutthelightItwasmoonriseSoIslunkdownintothemonstersbowelsagainThe first land we make is Monhegan Island before dawn and next StGeorgesIslandsseeingtwoorthreelightsWhiteheadwithitsbarerocksandfunerealbell isinterestingNextIrememberthattheCamdenHillsattractedmy eyes and afterward the hills about FrankfortWe reachedBangor aboutnoonWhenIarrivedmycompanionthatwastobehadgoneupriverandengagedan Indian JoeAitteon a sonof theGovernor togowithus toChesuncookLake Joe had conducted two white men a-moose-hunting in the samedirectiontheyearbeforeHearrivedbycarsatBangorthateveningwithhiscanoeandacompanionSabattisSolomonwhowasgoingtoleaveBangorthefollowingMondaywithJoesfatherbywayofthePenobscotandjoinJoeinmoose-huntingatChesuncookwhenwehaddonewithhimTheytooksupperatmyfriendshouseandlodgedinhisbarnsayingthattheyshouldfareworsethanthatinthewoodsTheyonlymadeWatchbarkalittlewhentheycametothedoorinthenightforwaterforhedoesnotlikeIndiansThe next morning Joe and his canoe were put on board the stage forMooseheadLakesixtyandoddmilesdistantanhourbeforewestartedinanopen wagon We carried hard-bread pork smoked beef tea sugar etcseemingly enough for a regiment the sight of which brought togetherremindedmebywhatignoblemeanswehadmaintainedourgroundhithertoWe went by the Avenue Road which is quite straight and very goodnorthwestward toward Moosehead Lake through more than a dozenflourishing towns with almost every one its academymdashnot one of whichhoweverisonmyGeneralAtlaspublishedalasin1824somucharetheybeforetheageorIbehinditTheearthmusthavebeenconsiderablylightertotheshouldersofGeneralAtlasthenIt rainedall thisdayand till themiddleof thenext forenoonconcealing thelandscapealmostentirelybutwehadhardlygotoutofthestreetsofBangorbeforeIbegan tobeexhilaratedby thesightof thewildfirandspruce topsand those of other primitive evergreens peering through the mist in thehorizonItwas like thesightandodorofcaketoaschoolboyHewhoridesandkeepsthebeatentrackstudiesthefenceschieflyNearBangorthefence-posts on account of the frosts heaving them in the clayey soil were notplanted in the ground but weremortised into a transverse horizontal beamlying on the surface Afterwards the prevailing fences were log ones withsometimesaVirginiafenceorelserailsslantedovercrossedstakesandthesezigzaggedorplayedleap-frogallthewaytothelakekeepingjustaheadofusAftergettingoutofthePenobscotvalleythecountrywasunexpectedlylevel

orconsistedofveryevenandequal swells for twentyor thirtymilesneverrisingabovethegenerallevelbutaffordingitissaidaverygoodprospectinclearweatherwithfrequentviewsofKtaadnmdashstraight roadsand longhillsThe houses were far apart commonly small and of one story but framedTherewasverylittlelandundercultivationyettheforestdidnotoftenbordertheroadThestumpswerefrequentlyashighasonesheadshowingthedepthofthesnowsThewhitehay-capsdrawnoversmallstacksofbeansorcorninthefieldsonaccountoftherainwereanovelsighttomeWesawlargeflocksof pigeons and several times camewithin a rod or two of partridges in theroadMycompanionsaidthatinonejourneyoutofBangorheandhissonhadshot sixty partridges from his buggy The mountain-ash was now veryhandsome as also the wayfarers-tree or hobble-bush with its ripe purpleberries mixed with red The Canada thistle an introduced plant was theprevailingweedallthewaytothelaketheroadsideinmanyplacesandfieldsnotlongclearedbeingdenselyfilledwithitaswithacroptotheexclusionofeverything else There were also whole fields full of ferns now rusty andwithering which in older countries are commonly confined to wet groundTherewereveryfewflowersevenallowingforthelatenessoftheseasonItchanced that I sawnoasters inbloomalong the road for fiftymiles thoughtheyweresoabundanttheninMassachusettsmdashexceptinoneplaceoneortwoof the Aster acuminatusmdashand no golden-rods till within twenty miles ofMonsonwhere I saw a three-ribbed one Thereweremany late buttercupshoweverandthetwofire-weedserechthitesandepilobiumcommonlywherethere had been a burning and at last the pearly everlasting I noticedoccasionally very long troughswhich supplied the roadwithwater andmycompanion said that threedollars annuallyweregrantedby theState to oneman in each school-district who provided andmaintained a suitablewater-trough by the roadside for the use of travelersmdasha piece of intelligence asrefreshingtomeasthewateritselfThatlegislaturedidnotsitinvainItwasan Oriental act which made me wish that I was still farther down EastmdashanotherMainelawwhichIhopewemaygetinMassachusettsThatStateisbanishingbar-roomsfromitshighwaysandconductingthemountainspringsthitherThe country was first decidedly mountainous in Garland Sangerville andonwards twenty-fiveor thirtymiles fromBangorAtSangervillewherewestoppedatmid-afternoontowarmanddryourselvesthelandlordtoldusthathehadfoundawildernesswherewefoundhimAtaforkintheroadbetweenAbbotandMonsonabouttwentymilesfromMooseheadLakeIsawaguide-postsurmountedbyapairofmoosehornsspreadingfourorfivefeetwiththewordMonsonpaintedononebladeandthenameofsomeothertownontheotherTheyaresometimesusedforornamentalhat-treestogetherwithdeershornsinfrontentriesbutaftertheexperiencewhichIshallrelateItrustthat

IshallhaveabetterexcuseforkillingamoosethanthatImayhangmyhatonhishornsWereachedMonsonfiftymilesfromBangorandthirteenfromthelakeafterdarkAtfouroclockthenextmorninginthedarkandstillintherainwepursuedour journey Close to the academy in this town they have erected a sort ofgallowsforthepupilstopracticeonIthoughtthattheymightaswellhangatonce allwhoneed to go through such exercises in sonewa countrywherethere isnothing tohinder their livinganoutdoor lifeBetteromitBlair andtaketheairThecountryaboutthesouthendofthelakeisquitemountainousand the road began to feel the effects of it There is one hill which it iscalculatedittakestwenty-fiveminutestoascendInmanyplacestheroadwasin that condition called repaired having just beenwhittled into the requiredsemicylindrical form with the shovel and scraper with all the softestinequalitiesinthemiddlelikeahogsbackwiththebristlesupandJehuwasexpectedtokeepastrideofthespineAsyoulookedoffeachsideofthebaresphereintothehorizontheditcheswereawfultobeholdmdashavasthollownesslike that between Saturn and his ring At a tavern hereabouts the hostlergreeted our horse as an old acquaintance though he did not remember thedriverHesaidthathehadtakencareofthatlittlemareforashorttimeayearortwobeforeattheMountKineoHouseandthoughtshewasnotinasgoodconditionas thenEveryman tohis trade IamnotacquaintedwithasinglehorseintheworldnoteventheonethatkickedmeAlreadywehadthoughtthatwesawMooseheadLakefromahilltopwhereanextensivefogfilledthedistantlowlandsbutweweremistakenItwasnottillwewerewithinamileortwoofitssouthendthatwegotourfirstviewofitmdasha suitably wild-looking sheet of water sprinkled with small low islandswhichwerecoveredwithshaggyspruceandotherwildwoodmdashseenovertheinfantportofGreenvillewithmountainsoneachsideandfarinthenorthandasteamerssmoke-piperisingabovearoofApairofmoose-hornsornamentedacornerofthepublichousewhereweleftourhorseandafewrodsdistantlaythe small steamerMoosehead Captain King There was no village and nosummer road any farther in this direction but a winter road that is onepassableonlywhendeepsnowcoversitsinequalitiesfromGreenvilleuptheeastsideofthelaketoLilyBayabouttwelvemilesIwasherefirstintroducedtoJoeHehadriddenallthewayontheoutsideofthe stage the day before in the rain giving way to ladies and was wellwettedAsitstillrainedheaskedifweweregoingtoputitthroughHewasa good-looking Indian twenty-four years old apparently of unmixed bloodshortandstoutwithabroadfaceandreddishcomplexionandeyesmethinksnarrowerandmoreturnedupattheoutercornersthanoursansweringtothedescriptionofhisraceBesideshisunderclothingheworearedflannelshirt

woolenpantsandablackKossuthhattheordinarydressofthelumbermanand to a considerable extent of the Penobscot IndianWhen afterward hehad occasion to take off his shoes and stockings I was struck with thesmallness of his feet He had worked a good deal as a lumberman andappearedtoidentifyhimselfwiththatclassHewastheonlyoneofthepartywhopossessedanindia-rubberjacketThetopstriporedgeofhiscanoewaswornnearlythroughbyfrictiononthestageAt eight oclock the steamer with her bell and whistle scaring the moosesummonedusonboardShewasawell-appointedlittleboatcommandedbyagentlemanly captainwith patent life-seats andmetallic life-boat anddinneronboardifyouwishSheischieflyusedbylumberersforthetransportationofthemselvestheirboatsandsuppliesbutalsobyhuntersandtouristsTherewasanothersteamernamedAmphitritelaidupclosebybutapparentlyhername was not more trite than her hull There were also two or three largesailboats inportThesebeginningsofcommerceona lake in thewildernessareveryinterestingmdashtheselargerwhitebirdsthatcometokeepcompanywiththegullsTherewerebutfewpassengersandnotonefemaleamongthemaStFrancisIndianwithhiscanoeandmoose-hidestwoexplorersforlumberthreemenwholandedatSandbarIslandandagentlemanwholivesonDeerIslandelevenmilesupthelakeandownsalsoSugarIslandbetweenwhichand theformer thesteamerruns these I thinkwereallbesideourselves Inthesaloonwassomekindofmusical instrumentmdashcherubimorseraphimmdashtosoothetheangrywavesandthereveryproperlywastackedupthemapofthepubliclandsofMaineandMassachusettsacopyofwhichIhadinmypocketThe heavy rain confining us to the saloon awhile I discoursed with theproprietor of Sugar Island on the condition of the world in Old TestamenttimesButat length leaving this subjectas freshaswe found ithe toldmethathehadlivedaboutthislaketwentyorthirtyyearsandyethadnotbeentotheheadofitfortwenty-oneyearsHefacestheotherwayTheexplorershada finenewbirchonboard larger thanours inwhich theyhadcomeup thePiscataquisfromHowlandandtheyhadhadseveralmessesoftroutalreadyTheyweregoingtotheneighborhoodofEagleandChamberlainlakesorthehead-watersoftheStJohnandofferedtokeepuscompanyasfaraswewentThelaketo-daywasrougherthanIfoundtheoceaneithergoingorreturningand Joe remarked that itwould swamphisbirchOffLilyBay it is adozenmileswidebutitismuchbrokenbyislandsThesceneryisnotmerelywildbutvariedandinterestingmountainswereseenfartherorneareronallsidesbut thenorthwest theirsummitsnowlost in thecloudsbutMountKineo isthe principal feature of the lake and more exclusively belongs to it AfterleavingGreenvilleat thefootwhichis thenucleusofa townsomeeightortenyearsoldyouseebutthreeorfourhousesforthewholelengthofthelakeoraboutfortymiles threeof themthepublichousesatwhichthesteameris

advertised to stop and the shore is an unbrokenwilderness The prevailingwood seemed to be spruce fir birch and rock maple You could easilydistinguishthehardwoodfromthesoftorblackgrowthasitiscalledatagreatdistancetheformerbeingsmoothround-toppedandlightgreenwithaboweryandcultivatedlookMountKineoatwhich theboat touched isapeninsulawithanarrowneckaboutmidwaythelakeontheeastsideThecelebratedprecipiceisontheeastorlandsideofthisandissohighandperpendicularthatyoucanjumpfromthetopmanyhundredfeetintothewaterwhichmakesupbehindthepointAmanon board told us that an anchor had been sunkninety fathoms at itsbasebeforereachingbottomProbablyitwillbediscoverederelongthatsomeIndian maiden jumped off it for love once for true love never could havefoundapathmoretoitsmindWepassedquiteclosetotherockheresinceitisaveryboldshoreandIobservedmarksofariseoffourorfivefeetonitTheStFrancisIndianexpectedtotakeinhisboyherebuthewasnotatthelandingThefatherssharpeyeshoweverdetectedacanoewithhisboyinitfarawayunder themountain thoughnooneelsecouldsee itWhere is thecanoeaskedthecaptainIdontseeitbutheheldonneverthelessandbyandbyithoveinsightWe reached the head of the lake about noon The weather had in themeanwhile clearedup though themountainswere still cappedwith cloudsSeen from this pointMountKineo and twoother alliedmountains rangingwithitnortheasterlypresentedaverystrongfamilylikenessas ifallcast inone mould The steamer here approached a long pier projecting from thenorthernwildernessandbuiltofsomeof its logsandwhistledwherenotacabinnoramortalwastobeseenTheshorewasquitelowwithflatrocksonitoverhungwithblackasharbor-vitaeligetcwhichatfirstlookedasiftheydidnotcareawhistle forusTherewasnotasinglecabman tocryCoachorinveigleus to theUnitedStatesHotelAt length aMrHinckleywhohas acampattheotherendofthecarryappearedwithatruckdrawnbyanoxandahorseoverarudelog-railwaythroughthewoodsThenextthingwastogetour canoe and effects over the carry from this lake oneof the heads of theKennebec into thePenobscotRiverThis railway from the lake to the riveroccupiedthemiddleofaclearingtwoorthreerodswideandperfectlystraightthrough the forestWewalked acrosswhileourbaggagewasdrawnbehindMy companion went ahead to be ready for partridges while I followedlookingattheplantsThiswas an interesting botanical locality for one coming from the south tocommencewithformanyplantswhichareratherrareandoneortwowhichare not found at all in the eastern part ofMassachusetts grew abundantlybetweentherailsmdashasLabrador-teaKalmiaglaucaCanadablueberry(which

wasstillinfruitandasecondtimeinbloom)ClintoniaandLinnaeligaborealiswhich last a lumberer called moxon creeping snowberry painted trilliumlarge-flowered bellwort etc I fancied that the Aster Radula Diplopappusumbellatus Solidago lanceolata red trumpet-weed and many others whichwereconspicuouslyinbloomontheshoreofthelakeandonthecarryhadapeculiarlywildandprimitivelookthereThespruceandfirtreescrowdedtothetrackoneachsidetowelcomeusthearbor-vitaeligwithitschangingleavespromptedustomakehasteandthesightofthecanoebirchgaveusspiritstodo so Sometimes an evergreen just fallen lay across the trackwith its richburden of cones looking still fuller of life than our trees in the mostfavorablepositionsYoudidnotexpect to findsuchspruce trees in thewildwoods but they evidently attend to their toilets each morning even thereThroughsuchafrontyarddidweenterthatwildernessTherewasaveryslightriseabovethelakemdashthecountryappearinglikeandperhaps being partly a swampmdashand at length a gradual descent to thePenobscotwhichIwassurprisedtofindherealargestreamfromtwelvetofifteenrodswideflowingfromwesttoeastoratrightangleswiththelakeandnotmorethantwoandahalfmilesfromitThedistanceisnearlytwicetoogreatontheMapofthePublicLandsandonColtonsMapofMaineandRussellStreamisplacedtoofardownJacksonmakesMooseheadLaketobeninehundredandsixtyfeetabovehighwater inPortlandharbor It ishigherthanChesuncookforthelumberersconsiderthePenobscotwherewestruckittwenty-fivefeetlowerthanMooseheadthougheightmilesaboveitissaidtobe thehighest so that thewatercanbemade to floweitherwayand theriver falls a gooddeal betweenhere andChesuncookThe carry-man calledthis about one hundred and forty miles above Bangor by the river or twohundred from the ocean and fifty-fivemiles belowHiltons on theCanadaroadthefirstclearingabovewhichisfourandahalfmilesfromthesourceofthePenobscotAtthenorthendofthecarryinthemidstofaclearingofsixtyacresormoretherewas a log campof theusual constructionwith somethingmore like ahouseadjoiningfortheaccommodationofthecarry-mansfamilyandpassinglumberers The bed ofwithered fir twigs smelled very sweet though reallyverydirtyTherewasalsoa store-houseon thebankof the rivercontainingporkflourironbatteauxandbircheslockedupWenowproceededtogetourdinnerwhichalwaysturnedouttobeteaandtopitchcanoesforwhichpurposealargeironpotlaypermanentlyonthebankThiswe did in companywith the explorers Both Indians andwhites use amixtureofrosinandgreasefor thispurpose that is for thepitchingnot thedinner Joe took a small brand from the fire and blew the heat and flameagainstthepitchonhisbirchandsomeltedandspreaditSometimesheput

hismouthoverthesuspectedspotandsuckedtoseeifitadmittedairandatone place where we stopped he set his canoe high on crossed stakes andpouredwaterintoitInarrowlywatchedhismotionsandlistenedattentivelytohisobservationsforwehademployedanIndianmainlythatImighthaveanopportunitytostudyhiswaysIheardhimswearoncemildlyduringthisoperationabouthisknifebeingasdullasahoemdashanaccomplishmentwhichhe owed to his intercoursewith thewhites and he remarked Weought tohavesometeabeforewestartweshallbehungrybeforewekillthatmooseAtmid-afternoonweembarkedonthePenobscotOurbirchwasnineteenandahalffeetlongbytwoandahalfatthewidestpartandfourteeninchesdeepwithin both ends alike and painted green which Joe thought affected thepitch andmade it leakThis I thinkwas amiddling-sizedoneThat of theexplorerswasmuchlargerthoughprobablynotmuchlongerThiscarriedusthreewithourbaggageweighinginallbetweenfivehundredandfiftyandsixhundredpoundsWehadtwoheavythoughslenderrock-maplepaddlesoneofthemofbirds-eyemapleJoeplacedbirch-barkonthebottomforustositonandslantedcedarsplintsagainstthecross-barstoprotectourbackswhilehehimselfsatuponacross-barinthesternThebaggageoccupiedthemiddleorwidestpartofthecanoeWealsopaddledbyturnsinthebowsnowsittingwithour legs extendednowsittinguponour legs andnow risinguponourkneesbutIfoundnoneofthesepositionsendurableandwasremindedofthecomplaintsoftheoldJesuitmissionariesofthetorturetheyenduredfromlongconfinement in constrained positions in canoes in their long voyages fromQuebectotheHuroncountrybutafterwardsIsatonthecross-barsorstoodupandexperiencednoinconvenienceItwasdeadwater foracoupleofmilesTheriverhadbeenraisedabout twofeet by the rain and lumberers were hoping for a flood sufficient to bringdownthelogsthatwereleft inthespringItsbanksweresevenoreightfeethighanddenselycoveredwithwhiteandblacksprucemdashwhichIthinkmustbethecommonesttreesthereaboutsmdashfirarbor-vitaeligcanoeyellowandblackbirchrockmountainandafewredmaplesbeechblackandmountainashthelarge-toothedaspenmanycivil-lookingelmsnowimbrownedalongthestream and at first a fewhemlocks alsoWe had not gone far before IwasstartledbyseeingwhatIthoughtwasanIndianencampmentcoveredwitharedflagonthebankandexclaimedCamptomycomradesIwasslowtodiscover that itwasaredmaplechangedbythefrostTheimmediateshoreswerealsodenselycoveredwiththespeckledalderredosiershrubbywillowsor sallows and the like There were a few yellow lily pads still left half-drowned along the sides and sometimes awhite oneMany fresh tracksofmoosewere visiblewhere thewaterwas shallow and on the shore the lilystemswerefreshlybittenoffbythem

After paddling about twomilesweparted companywith the explorers andturned upLobster Streamwhich comes in on the right from the southeastThiswassixoreightrodswideandappearedtorunnearlyparallelwiththePenobscotJoesaidthatitwassocalledfromsmallfresh-waterlobstersfoundin it It is theMatahumkeagof themapsMycompanionwished to look formoosesignsandintendedifitprovedworththewhiletocampupthatwaysincetheIndianadviseditOnaccountoftheriseofthePenobscotthewaterran up this stream to the pond of the same name one or two miles TheSpencerMountains east of the north end ofMooseheadLakewere now inplain sight in front of us The kingfisher flew before us the pigeonwoodpeckerwasseenandheardandnuthatchesandchickadeescloseathandJoesaidthattheycalledthechickadeekecunnilessuinhislanguageIwillnotvouch for the spelling of what possibly was never spelt before but IpronouncedafterhimtillhesaiditwoulddoWepassedclosetoawoodcockwhich stood perfectly still on the shorewith feathers puffed up as if sickThisJoesaidtheycallednipsquecohossusThekingfisherwasskuscumonsuckbearwaswassus Indian devil lunxus themountain-ash upahsis ThiswasveryabundantandbeautifulMoosetrackswerenotsofreshalongthisstreamexceptinasmallcreekaboutamileupitwherealargeloghadlodgedinthespringmarkedW-cross-girdle-crow-footWesawapairofmoose-hornsontheshoreandIaskedJoeifamoosehadshedthembuthesaidtherewasaheadattachedtothemandIknewthattheydidnotshedtheirheadsmorethanonceintheirlivesAfterascendingaboutamileandahalftowithinashortdistanceofLobsterLakewereturnedto thePenobscotJustbelowthemouthof theLobsterwefoundquickwater and the riverexpanded to twentyor thirty rods inwidthThemoose-trackswerequitenumerousandfreshhereWenoticedinagreatmanyplacesnarrowandwell-troddenpathsbywhichtheyhadcomedowntotheriverandwheretheyhadslidonthesteepandclayeybankTheirtrackswereeitherclosetotheedgeofthestreamthoseofthecalvesdistinguishablefromtheothersor inshallowwater theholesmadeby their feet in thesoftbottombeingvisibleforalongtimeTheywereparticularlynumerouswherethere was a small bay or pokelogan as it is called bordered by a strip ofmeadoworseparatedfromtheriverbya lowpeninsulacoveredwithcoarsegrasswool-grassetcwhereintheyhadwadedbackandforthandeatenthepadsWedetectedtheremainsofoneinsuchaspotAtoneplacewherewelandedtopickupasummerduckwhichmycompanionhadshotJoepeeledacanoebirchforbarkforhishunting-hornHethenaskedifwewerenotgoingtogettheotherduckforhissharpeyeshadseenanotherfallinthebushesalittlefartheralongandmycompanionobtaineditInowbegantonoticethebright red berries of the tree-cranberry which grows eight or ten feet highmingledwiththealdersandcornelalongtheshoreTherewaslesshardwood

thanatfirstAfterproceedingamileandthreequartersbelowthemouthoftheLobsterwereached about sundown a small island at the head of what Joe called theMoosehornDeadwater (theMoosehorn inwhich hewas going to hunt thatnight coming in about threemiles below) andon theupper endof thiswedecidedtocampOnapointatthelowerendlaythecarcassofamoosekilledamonthormorebeforeWeconcludedmerelytoprepareourcampandleaveour baggage here that all might be ready when we returned from moose-huntingThoughIhadnotcomea-huntingandfeltsomecompunctionsaboutaccompanyingthehuntersIwishedtoseeamoosenearathandandwasnotsorry to learn how the Indian managed to kill one I went as reporter orchaplain to the huntersmdashand the chaplain has been known to carry a gunhimselfAfterclearingasmallspaceamidthedensespruceandfir treeswecovered the damp groundwith a shingling of fir twigs andwhile Joewaspreparing his birch horn and pitching his canoemdashfor this had to be donewheneverwestoppedlongenoughtobuildafireandwastheprincipallaborwhichhe tookuponhimself at such timesmdashwecollected fuel for thenightlargewetandrottinglogswhichhadlodgedattheheadoftheislandforourhatchetwastoosmallforeffectivechoppingbutwedidnotkindleafirelestthemooseshouldsmellitJoesetupacoupleofforkedstakesandpreparedhalfadozenpolesreadytocastoneofourblanketsoverincaseitrainedinthe night which precaution however was omitted the next nightWe alsopluckedtheduckswhichhadbeenkilledforbreakfastWhilewewerethusengagedinthetwilightweheardfaintlyfromfardownthe streamwhat sounded like two strokes of awoodchoppers axe echoingdullythroughthegrimsolitudeWearewonttolikenmanysoundsheardatadistanceintheforesttothestrokeofanaxebecausetheyresembleeachotherunderthosecircumstancesandthatistheonewecommonlyhearthereWhenwetoldJoeofthisheexclaimedByGeorgeIllbetthatwasamooseTheymakeanoiselikethatThesesoundsaffectedusstrangelyandbytheirveryresemblancetoafamiliaronewheretheyprobablyhadsodifferentanoriginenhancedtheimpressionofsolitudeandwildnessAt starlightwe dropped down the streamwhichwas a deadwater for threemilesorasfarastheMoosehornJoetellingusthatwemustbeverysilentand he himselfmaking no noisewith his paddle while he urged the canoealongwitheffectiveimpulsesItwasastillnightandsuitableforthispurposemdashforifthereiswindthemoosewillsmellyoumdashandJoewasveryconfidentthatheshouldgetsomeTheHarvestMoonhadjustrisenandits levelraysbegan to light up the forest on our rightwhilewe glided downward in theshadeon the same side against the little breeze thatwas stirringThe loftyspiring topsof the spruceand firwereveryblackagainst the skyandmore

distinct thanbydaycloseborderingthisbroadavenueoneachsideandthebeautyofthesceneasthemoonroseabovetheforestitwouldnotbeeasytodescribeAbatflewoverourheadsandweheardafewfaintnotesofbirdsfromtimetotimeperhapsthemyrtle-birdforoneorthesuddenplungeofamusquashorsawonecrossingthestreambeforeusorheardthesoundofarill emptying in swollen by the recent rainAbout amile below the islandwhen the solitude seemed to be growingmore complete everymomentwesuddenly saw the light and heard the crackling of a fire on the bank anddiscoveredthecampofthetwoexplorerstheystandingbeforeitintheirredshirtsand talkingaloudof theadventuresandprofitsof thedayTheywerejust then speaking of a bargain in which as I understood somebody hadcleared twenty-five dollarsWe glided bywithout speaking close under thebankwithinacoupleofrodsof themandJoe takinghishorn imitatedthecallofthemoosetillwesuggestedthattheymightfireonusThiswasthelastwesawofthemandweneverknewwhethertheydetectedorsuspectedusIhaveoftenwishedsincethatIwaswiththemTheysearchfortimberoveragiven section climbing hills and often high trees to look off explore thestreamsbywhichitistobedrivenandthelikespendfiveorsixweeksinthewoods they two alone a hundred miles or more from any town roamingabout and sleeping on the ground where night overtakes them dependingchiefly on the provisions they carry with them though they do not declinewhatgametheycomeacrossandtheninthefalltheyreturnandmakereporttotheiremployersdeterminingthenumberofteamsthatwillberequiredthefollowing winter Experienced men get three or four dollars a day for thiswork It is a solitary and adventurous life and comes nearest to that of thetrapperoftheWestperhapsTheyworkeverwithagunaswellasanaxelettheir beards grow and livewithout neighbors not on anopenplain but farwithinawildernessThisdiscoveryaccountedfor thesoundswhichwehadheardanddestroyedthe prospect of seeing moose yet awhile At length when we had left theexplorersfarbehindJoelaiddownhispaddledrewforthhisbirchhornmdashastraightoneaboutfifteenincheslongandthreeorfourwideatthemouthtiedroundwithstripsofthesamebarkmdashandstandingupimitatedthecallofthemoosemdashugh-ugh-ughoroo-oo-oo-ooandthenaprolongedoo-o-o-o-o-o-o-o and listened attentively for several minutesWe asked himwhat kind ofnoise he expected to hear He said that if amoose heard it he guessedweshouldfindoutweshouldhearhimcominghalfamileoffhewouldcomeclosetoperhapsintothewaterandmycompanionmustwaittillhegotfairsightandthenaimjustbehindtheshoulderThemooseventureouttotheriversidetofeedanddrinkatnightEarlierintheseasonthehuntersdonotuseahorntocallthemoutbutstealuponthemas

theyarefeedingalongthesidesof thestreamandoftenthefirstnoticetheyhave of one is the sound of thewater dropping from itsmuzzleAn IndianwhomIheardimitatethevoiceofthemooseandalsothatofthecaribouandthedeerusingamuchlongerhornthanJoes toldmethatthefirstcouldbeheard eight or tenmiles sometimes itwas a loud sort of bellowing soundclearer andmore sonorous than the lowing of cattle the caribous a sort ofsnortandthesmalldeerslikethatofalambAtlengthweturneduptheMoosehornwheretheIndiansatthecarryhadtoldusthattheykilledamoosethenightbeforeThisisaverymeanderingstreamonlya rodor two inwidthbut comparativelydeep coming inon the rightfitlyenoughnamedMoosehornwhetherfromitswindingsoritsinhabitantsItwasborderedhere and therebynarrowmeadowsbetween the streamandtheendlessforestaffordingfavorableplacesforthemoosetofeedandtocallthemoutonWeproceededhalfamileupthisas throughanarrowwindingcanalwherethetalldarkspruceandfirsandarbor-vitaeligtoweredonbothsidesinthemoonlightformingaperpendicularforest-edgeofgreatheightlikethespiresofaVeniceintheforestIntwoplacesstoodasmallstackofhayonthebankreadyforthelumberersuseinthewinterlookingstrangeenoughthereWethoughtofthedaywhenthismightbeabrookwindingthroughsmooth-shavenmeadowsonsomegentlemansgroundsandseenbymoonlight thenexceptingtheforestthatnowhemsitinhowlittlechangeditwouldappearAgain and again Joe called the moose placing the canoe close by somefavorable point ofmeadow for them to comeout on but listened in vain tohearonecomerushingthroughthewoodsandconcludedthattheyhadbeenhuntedtoomuchthereaboutsWesawmanytimeswhattoourimaginationslookedlikeagiganticmoosewithhishornspeeringfromouttheforestedgebutwe saw the forest only and not its inhabitants that night So at lastweturnedaboutTherewasnowa little fogon thewater though itwas a fineclear night above Therewere very few sounds to break the stillness of theforestSeveraltimesweheardthehootingofagreathornedowlasathomeand toldJoe thathewouldcallout themoose forhim forhemadeasoundconsiderably like thehorn but Joe answered that themoosehadheard thatsoundathousandtimesandknewbetterandoftenerstillwewerestartledbythe plunge of a musquash Once when Joe had called again and we werelistening for moose we heard come faintly echoing or creeping from farthroughthemoss-cladaislesadulldryrushingsoundwithasolidcoretoityetasifhalfsmotheredunderthegraspoftheluxuriantandfungus-likeforestlike the shutting of a door in some distant entry of the damp and shaggywildernessIfwehadnotbeentherenomortalhadhearditWhenweaskedJoe in awhisperwhat it was he answered Tree fall There is somethingsingularly grand and impressive in the sound of a tree falling in a perfectlycalmnightlikethisasiftheagencieswhichoverthrowitdidnotneedtobe

excitedbutworkedwithasubtledeliberateandconsciousforcelikeaboa-constrictorandmoreeffectivelythenthaneveninawindydayIfthereisanysuchdifferenceperhapsitisbecausetreeswiththedewsofthenightonthemareheavierthanbydayHavingreachedthecampabouttenoclockwekindledourfireandwenttobed Each of us had a blanket in which he lay on the fir twigs with hisextremitiestowardthefirebutnothingoverhisheadItwasworththewhiletoliedowninacountrywhereyoucouldaffordsuchgreatfiresthatwasonewholesideandthebrightsideofourworldWehadfirstrolledupalargelogsomeeighteeninchesthroughandtenfeetlongforabacklogtolastallnightandthenpiledonthetrees to theheightof threeorfourfeetnomatterhowgreen or damp In factwe burned asmuchwood that night aswouldwitheconomy and an air-tight stove last a poor family in one of our cities allwinter Itwasveryagreeableaswellas independent thus lying in theopenair and the fire kept our uncovered extremities warm enough The Jesuitmissionaries used to say that in their journeyswith the Indians inCanadatheylayonabedwhichhadneverbeenshakenupsincethecreationunlessbyearthquakes It is surprising with what impunity and comfort one who hasalwayslaininawarmbedinacloseapartmentandstudiouslyavoideddraftsofaircanliedownonthegroundwithoutashelterrollhimselfinablanketandsleepbeforeafire inafrostyautumnnight justafteralongrain-stormandevencomesoontoenjoyandvaluethefreshairI lay awake awhilewatching the ascent of the sparks through the firs andsometimes their descent in half-extinguished cinders on my blanket Theywereasinterestingasfireworksgoingupinendlesssuccessivecrowdseachafter an explosion in an eager serpentine course some to five or six rodsabove the tree-tops before theywent outWedonot suspect howmuchourchimneyshaveconcealedandnowair-tightstoveshavecometoconcealalltherestInthecourseofthenightIgotuponceortwiceandputfreshlogsonthefiremakingmycompanionscurluptheirlegsWhen we awoke in the morning (Saturday September 17) there wasconsiderablefrostwhiteningtheleavesWeheardthesoundofthechickadeeandafewfaintlylispingbirdsandalsoofducksinthewaterabouttheislandItookabotanicalaccountofstockofourdomainsbeforethedewwasoffandfound that the ground-hemlock or American yew was the prevailingundershrubWebreakfastedonteahard-breadandducksBeforethefoghadfairlyclearedawaywepaddleddownthestreamagainandwere soon past the mouth of the Moosehorn These twenty miles of thePenobscot between Moosehead and Chesuncook lakes are comparativelysmooth and a great part deadwater but from time to time it is shallowandrapid with rocks or gravel beds where you can wade across There is no

expanseofwaterandnobreakintheforestandthemeadowisamereedginghereandthereTherearenohillsneartherivernorwithinsightexceptoneortwodistantmountainsseeninafewplacesThebanksarefromsixtotenfeethighbutonceortwicerisegentlytohighergroundInmanyplacestheforeston the bank was but a thin strip letting the light through from some alderswamp ormeadow behind The conspicuous berry-bearing bushes and treesalong the shore were the red osier with its whitish fruit hobble-bushmountain-ash tree-cranberry choke-cherry now ripe alternate cornel andnakedviburnumFollowingJoesexampleIatethefruitofthelastandalsoof the hobble-bush but found them rather insipid and seedy I looked verynarrowly at the vegetation as we glided along close to the shore andfrequentlymade Joe turn aside forme to pluck a plant that Imight see bycomparisonwhatwasprimitiveaboutmynativeriverHorehoundhorse-mintand the sensitive ferngrewclose to the edge under thewillows and aldersandwool-grassontheislandsasalongtheAssabetRiverinConcordItwastoolateforflowersexceptafewastersgoldenrodsetcInseveralplaceswenoticedtheslightframeofacampsuchaswehadpreparedtosetupamidtheforestby theriversidewheresomelumberersorhuntershadpassedanightandsometimesstepscutinthemuddyorclayeybankinfrontofitWestopped to fish for troutat themouthofa small streamcalledRagmuffwhich came in from thewest about twomiles below theMoosehornHerewere the ruins of an old lumbering-camp and a small space which hadformerlybeenclearedandburnedoverwasnowdenselyovergrownwiththered cherry and raspberriesWhilewewere trying for trout Joe Indian-likewanderedoffuptheRagmuffonhisownerrandsandwhenwewerereadytostartwas farbeyondcallSowewerecompelled tomakea fireandgetourdinner here not to lose time Some dark reddish birdswith grayer females(perhaps purple finches) and myrtle-birds in their summer dress hoppedwithinsixoreightfeetofusandoursmokePerhapstheysmelledthefryingporkThelatterbirdorbothmadethelispingnoteswhichIhadheardintheforestTheysuggestedthatthefewsmallbirdsfoundinthewildernessareonmorefamiliartermswiththelumbermanandhunterthanthoseoftheorchardand clearing with the farmer I have since found the Canada jay andpartridgesboththeblackandthecommonequallytamethereasiftheyhadnotyetlearnedtomistrustmanentirelyThechickadeewhichisathomealikeintheprimitivewoodsandinourwood-lotsstillretainsitsconfidenceinthetownstoaremarkabledegreeJoeatlengthreturnedafteranhourandahalfandsaidthathehadbeentwomilesupthestreamexploringandhadseenamoosebutnothavingthegunhedidnotgethimWemadenocomplaintbutconcludedtolookoutforJoethenext timeHowever thismayhavebeen ameremistake forwehadnoreason to complain of him afterwardsAswe continued down the stream I

wassurprisedtohearhimwhistlingOSusannaandseveralothersuchairswhile his paddle urged us along Once he said Yes sir-ee His commonwordwasSartainHepaddledasusualononesideonlygivingthebirchanimpulsebyusingthesideasafulcrumIaskedhimhowtheribswerefastenedto the side railsHeanswered Idontknow InevernoticedTalkingwithhimaboutsubsistingwhollyonwhatthewoodsyieldedmdashgamefishberriesetcmdashIsuggestedthathisancestorsdidsobutheansweredthathehadbeenbroughtupinsuchawaythathecouldnotdoitYessaidhethatsthewaytheygotalivinglikewildfellowswildasbearsByGeorgeIshantgointothewoodswithout provisionmdashhard-bread pork etcHe had brought on abarrelofhard-breadandstoreditatthecarryforhishuntingHoweverthoughhewasaGovernorssonhehadnotlearnedtoreadAtoneplacebelowthisontheeastsidewherethebankwashigheranddrierthan usual rising gently from the shore to a slight elevation some one hadfelled the trees over twenty or thirty acres and left themdrying in order toburnThiswastheonlypreparationforahousebetweentheMooseheadCarryandChesuncookbut therewasnohutnor inhabitants thereyetThepioneerthusselectsasiteforhishousewhichwillperhapsprovethegermofatownMyeyeswereallthewhileonthetreesdistinguishingbetweentheblackandwhite spruce and the fir You paddle along in a narrow canal through anendless forest and thevision I have inmyminds eye still is of the smalldarkandsharptopsof tall firandsprucetreesandpagoda-likearbor-vitaeligscrowdedtogetheroneachsidewithvarioushardwoodsintermixedSomeofthe arbor-vitaeligs were at least sixty feet high The hard woods occasionallyoccurring exclusivelywere lesswild tomy eye I fancied them ornamentalgrounds with farmhouses in the rear The canoe and yellow birch beechmaple and elm are Saxon and Norman but the spruce and fir and pinesgenerally are Indian The soft engravingswhich adorn the annuals give noideaofastreaminsuchawildernessasthisTheroughsketchesinJacksonsReportsontheGeologyofMaineanswermuchbetterAtoneplacewesawasmallgroveofslendersaplingwhitepinestheonlycollectionofpinesthatIsaw on this voyage Here and there however was a full-grown tall andslender but defective onewhat lumbermen call a konchus treewhich theyascertainwiththeiraxesorbytheknotsIdidnotlearnwhetherthiswordwasIndianorEnglishItremindedmeoftheGreekκόγχηaconchorshellandIamusedmyselfwith fancying that itmightsignify thedeadsoundwhich thetreesyieldwhenstruckAlltherestofthepineshadbeendrivenoffHowfarmengoforthematerialoftheirhousesTheinhabitantsofthemostcivilizedcitiesinallagessendintofarprimitiveforestsbeyondtheboundsoftheircivilizationwherethemooseandbearandsavagedwellfortheirpineboardsforordinaryuseAndontheotherhandthesavagesoonreceivesfrom

citiesironarrow-pointshatchetsandgunstopointhissavagenesswithThe solidandwell-defined fir-tops like sharpand regular spearheadsblackagainst the sky gave a peculiar dark and sombre look to the forest Thespruce-tops have a similar butmore ragged outline their shafts alsomerelyfeatheredbelowThefirsweresomewhatoftenerregularanddensepyramidsI was struck by this universal spiring upward of the forest evergreens Thetendencyis toslenderspiringtopswhiletheyarenarrowerbelowNotonlythe spruce and fir but even the arbor-vitaelig and white pine unlike the softspreading second-growth of which I saw none all spire upwards lifting adensespearheadofconestothelightandairatanyratewhiletheirbranchesstraggleafterastheymayasIndianslifttheballovertheheadsofthecrowdin their desperate game In this they resemble grasses as also palmssomewhatThehemlockiscommonlyatent-likepyramidfromthegroundtoitssummitAfter passing through some long rips and by a large islandwe reached aninterestingpartoftherivercalledthePineStreamDeadwateraboutsixmilesbelow Ragmuff where the river expanded to thirty rods in width and hadmany islands in it with elms and canoe-birches now yellowing along theshoreandwegotourfirstsightofKtaadnHereabouttwooclockweturnedupasmallbranchthreeorfourrodswidewhichcomes inon the right from the south calledPineStream to look formoose signsWe had gone but a few rods beforewe saw very recent signsalongthewatersedge themudliftedupby their feetbeingquitefreshandJoedeclaredthattheyhadgonealongtherebutashorttimebeforeWesoonreachedasmallmeadowontheeastsideatanangleinthestreamwhichwasfor themostpartdenselycoveredwithaldersAswewereadvancingalongthe edge of this rathermore quietly than usual perhaps on account of thefreshnessofthesignsmdashthedesignbeingtocampupthisstreamifitpromisedwellmdashIheardaslightcracklingoftwigsdeepinthealdersandturnedJoesattention to itwhereuponhebegan topush the canoeback rapidly andwehad receded thus half a dozen rods when we suddenly spied two moosestanding just on the edge of the open part of the meadow which we hadpassednotmorethansixorsevenrodsdistantlookingroundthealdersatusTheymademethinkofgreatfrightenedrabbitswiththeirlongearsandhalf-inquisitive half-frightened looks the true denizens of the forest (I saw atonce) fillingavacuumwhichnow first Idiscoveredhadnotbeen filled formemdashmoose-menwood-eaters theword is said tomeanmdashclad in a sort ofVermontgrayorhomespunOurNimrodowingtotheretrogrademovementwasnowthefarthestfromthegamebutbeingwarnedofitsneighborhoodhehastilystoodupandwhileweduckedfiredoverourheadsonebarrelattheforemostwhichalonehesawthoughhedidnotknowwhatkindofcreatureit

waswhereuponthisonedashedacrossthemeadowandupahighbankonthenortheastsorapidlyastoleavebutanindistinctimpressionofitsoutlinesonmymindAt thesame instant theotherayoungonebutas tallasahorseleaped out into the stream in full sight and there stood cowering for amomentorratheritsdisproportionatelownessbehindgaveitthatappearanceandutteringtwoorthreetrumpetingsqueaksIhaveanindistinctrecollectionofseeingtheoldonepauseaninstantonthetopofthebankinthewoodslooktowarditsshiveringyoungandthendashawayagainThesecondbarrelwasleveledat thecalfandwhenweexpected tosee itdrop in thewaterafteralittlehesitationittoogotoutofthewateranddashedupthehillthoughinasomewhatdifferentdirectionAllthiswastheworkofafewsecondsandourhunterhavingneverseenamoosebeforedidnotknowbut theyweredeerfor they stoodpartly in thewaternorwhetherhehad firedat the sameonetwiceornotFromthestyleinwhichtheywentoffandthefactthathewasnotusedtostandingupandfiringfromacanoeIjudgedthatweshouldnotseeanythingmoreofthemTheIndiansaidthattheywereacowandhercalfmdasha yearling or perhaps two years old for they accompany their dams solongbutformypartIhadnotnoticedmuchdifferenceintheirsizeItwasbuttwoorthreerodsacrossthemeadowtothefootofthebankwhichlikealltheworldthereaboutswasdenselywoodedbutIwassurprisedtonoticethatassoonas themoosehadpassedbehindtheveilof thewoods therewasnosoundof footsteps tobeheard from the soft dampmosswhich carpets thatforest and long beforewe landed perfect silence reigned Joe said If youwoundemmoosemesuregetemWealllandedatonceMycompanionreloadedtheIndianfastenedhisbirchthrewoffhishatadjustedhiswaistbandseized thehatchetandsetoutHetoldmeafterwardcasuallythatbeforewelandedhehadseenadropofbloodonthebankwhenitwastwoor threerodsoffHeproceededrapidlyupthebank and through thewoodswith a peculiar elastic noiseless and stealthytreadlookingtorightandleftonthegroundandsteppinginthefainttracksof thewoundedmoosenowand thenpointing insilence toasingledropofblood on the handsome shining leaves of the Clintonia borealis which onevery side covered thegroundor toadry fern stem freshlybroken all thewhile chewing some leaf or else the spruce gum I followed watching hismotionsmorethanthetrailofthemooseAfterfollowingthetrailaboutfortyrodsinaprettydirectcoursesteppingoverfallentreesandwindingbetweenstanding ones he at length lost it for there weremany other moose-tracksthereandreturningoncemoretothelastblood-staintraceditalittlewayandlostitagainandtoosoonIthoughtforagoodhuntergaveitupentirelyHetraced a few steps also the tracks of the calf but seeing no blood soonrelinquishedthesearchIobservedwhilehewastrackingthemooseacertainreticenceormoderation

in him He did not communicate several observations of interest which hemade as a whitemanwould have done though theymay have leaked outafterwardAtanothertimewhenweheardaslightcracklingoftwigsandhelanded to reconnoitrehe stepped lightlyandgracefully stealing through thebusheswiththeleastpossiblenoiseinawayinwhichnowhitemandoesmdashasitwerefindingaplaceforhisfooteachtimeAbout half an hour after seeing themoosewe pursued our voyage upPineStreamandsooncomingtoapartwhichwasveryshoalandalsorapidwetookoutthebaggageandproceededtocarryitroundwhileJoegotupwiththecanoealoneWewerejustcompletingourportageandIwasabsorbedintheplantsadmiringtheleavesoftheAstermacrophyllustenincheswideandpluckingtheseedsofthegreatround-leavedorchiswhenJoeexclaimedfromthe stream that he had killed amoose He had found the cowmoose lyingdeadbutquitewarminthemiddleofthestreamwhichwassoshallowthatitrestedonthebottomwithhardlyathirdofitsbodyabovewaterItwasaboutan hour after itwas shot and itwas swollenwithwater It had run about ahundredrodsandsoughtthestreamagaincuttingoffaslightbendNodoubtabetterhunterwouldhavetrackedittothisspotatonceIwassurprisedatitsgreat size horse-like but Joe said it was not a large cow moose Mycompanion went in search of the calf again I took hold of the ears of themoosewhileJoepushedhiscanoedown-streamtowardafavorableshoreandsowemadeoutthoughwithsomedifficultyitslongnosefrequentlystickinginthebottomtodragitintostillshallowerwaterItwasabrownish-blackorperhaps a dark iron-gray on the back and sides but lighter beneath and infront I took the cord which served for the canoes painter and with Joesassistance measured it carefully the greatest distances first making a knoteachtimeThepainterbeingwantedIreducedthesemeasuresthatnightwithequal care to lengths and fractions of my umbrella beginning with thesmallestmeasuresanduntyingtheknotsasIproceededandwhenwearrivedatChesuncookthenextdayfindingatwo-footrulethereIreducedthelasttofeet and inches andmoreover Imademyself a two-foot ruleof a thin andnarrowstripofblackashwhichwouldfoldupconvenientlytosixinchesAllthispains I tookbecause Ididnotwish tobeobliged tosaymerely that themoose was very large Of the various dimensions which I obtained I willmention only two The distance from the tips of the hoofs of the fore feetstretchedouttothetopofthebackbetweentheshoulderswassevenfeetandfive inches Icanhardlybelievemyownmeasure for this isabout two feetgreater than the height of a tall horse (Indeed I am now satisfied that thismeasurementwasincorrectbuttheothermeasuresgivenhereIcanwarranttobe correct having proved them in amore recent visit to thosewoods) Theextreme lengthwas eight feet and two inchesAnother cowmoosewhich Ihavesincemeasuredinthosewoodswithatapewasjustsixfeetfromthetip

ofthehooftotheshouldersandeightfeetlongasshelayWhenafterwardIaskedanIndianatthecarryhowmuchtallerthemalewasheansweredEighteeninchesandmademeobservetheheightofacross-stakeoverthefiremorethanfourfeetfromthegroundtogivemesomeideaofthedepthofhischestAnotherIndianatOldtowntoldmethattheywereninefeethightothetopofthebackandthatonewhichhetriedweighedeighthundredpoundsThelengthofthespinalprojectionsbetweentheshouldersisverygreatAwhitehunterwhowas thebestauthorityamonghunters that Icould have told me that the male was not eighteen inches taller than thefemaleyetheagreedthathewassometimesninefeethighto the topof thebackandweighedathousandpoundsOnlythemalehashornsandtheyrisetwo feet or more above the shouldersmdashspreading three or four andsometimes six feetmdashwhichwouldmake him in all sometimes eleven feethighAccordingtothiscalculationthemooseisastallthoughitmaynotbeas large as thegreat Irish elkMegacerosHibernicus of a formerperiod ofwhichMantellsaysthatitveryfarexceededinmagnitudeanylivingspeciesthe skeletonbeing upwardof ten feethigh from theground to thehighestpoint of the antlers Joe said that though themoose shed thewhole hornannuallyeachnewhornhasanadditionalprongbutIhavenoticedthattheysometimeshavemoreprongsononesidethanontheotherIwasstruckwiththedelicacyandtendernessofthehoofswhichdivideveryfarupandtheonehalfcouldbepressedverymuchbehind theother thusprobablymaking theanimalsurer-footedontheunevengroundandslipperymoss-coveredlogsoftheprimitive forestTheywereveryunlike the stiff andbattered feetofourhorsesandoxenThebarehornypartoftheforefootwasjustsixincheslongandthetwoportionscouldbeseparatedfourinchesattheextremitiesThe moose is singularly grotesque and awkward to look atWhy should itstandsohighattheshouldersWhyhavesolongaheadWhyhavenotailtospeakofforinmyexaminationIoverlookeditentirelyNaturalistssayit isaninchandahalflongItremindedmeatonceofthecamelopardhighbeforeand lowbehindmdashandnowonder for like it it is fitted tobrowseon treesThe upper lip projected two inches beyond the lower for this purpose ThiswasthekindofmanthatwasathomethereforasnearasIcanlearnthathasnever been the residence but rather the hunting-ground of the Indian ThemoosewillperhapsonedaybecomeextinctbuthownaturallythenwhenitexistsonlyasafossilrelicandunseenasthatmaythepoetorsculptorinventafabulousanimalwithsimilarbranchingandleafyhornsmdashasortoffucusorlicheninbonemdashtobetheinhabitantofsuchaforestasthisHerejustattheheadofthemurmuringrapidsJoenowproceededtoskinthemoosewithapocket-knifewhileIlookedonandatragicalbusinessitwasmdashto see that still warm and palpitating body pierced with a knife to see the

warm milk stream from the rent udder and the ghastly naked red carcassappearing fromwithin its seemly robewhichwasmade tohide itTheballhadpassed through the shoulder-bladediagonallyand lodgedunder the skinon the opposite side andwas partially flattenedMy companion keeps it toshowtohisgrandchildrenHehastheshanksofanothermoosewhichhehassince shot skinnedand stuffed ready tobemade intobootsbyputting in athickleathersoleJoesaidifamoosestoodfrontingyouyoumustnotfirebutadvancetowardhimforhewillturnslowlyandgiveyouafairshotInthebedofthisnarrowwildandrockystreambetweentwoloftywallsofspruceandfirsamerecleftintheforestwhichthestreamhadmadethisworkwentonAtlengthJoehadstrippedoffthehideanddraggedittrailingtotheshoredeclaringthatitweighedahundredpoundsthoughprobablyfiftywouldhavebeennearerthetruthHecutoffalargemassofthemeattocarryalongandanothertogetherwiththetongueandnoseheputwiththehideontheshoretoliethereallnightortillwereturnedIwassurprisedthathethoughtofleavingthismeatthusexposedbythesideofthecarcassasthesimplestcoursenotfearing that any creaturewould touch it but nothing didThis could hardlyhave happened on the bank of one of our rivers in the eastern part ofMassachusettsbutIsuspectthatfewersmallwildanimalsareprowlingtherethanwithusTwicehoweverinthisexcursionIhadaglimpseofaspeciesoflargemouseThis streamwassowithdrawnand themoose-trackswereso fresh thatmycompanionsstillbentonhuntingconcludedtogofartherupitandcampandthenhuntupordownatnightHalfamileabovethisataplacewhereIsawtheAsterpuniceusandthebeakedhazelaswepaddledalongJoehearingaslightrustlingamidthealdersandseeingsomethingblackabouttworodsoffjumped up andwhispered Bear but before the hunter had discharged hispiece he corrected himself to BeavermdashHedgehog The bullet killed alarge hedgehog more than two feet and eight inches long The quills wererayedoutandflattenedonthehinderpartofitsbackevenasifithadlainonthat part but were erect and long between this and the tail Their pointscloselyexaminedwereseen tobefinelybeardedorbarbedandshapedlikeanawlthatisalittleconcavetogivethebarbseffectAfteraboutamileofstill water we prepared our camp on the right side just at the foot of aconsiderablefallLittlechoppingwasdonethatnightforfearofscaringthemooseWehadmoosemeat fried for supper It tasted like tenderbeefwithperhapsmoreflavormdashsometimeslikevealAfter supper the moon having risen we proceeded to hunt a mile up thisstreamfirstcarryingaboutthefallsWemadeapicturesquesightwendingsinglefilealongtheshoreclimbingoverrocksandlogsJoewhobroughtupthereartwirlinghiscanoeinhishandsasifitwereafeatherinplaceswhereitwas difficult to get alongwithout a burdenWe launched the canoe again

fromtheledgeoverwhichthestreamfellbutafterhalfamileofstillwatersuitable forhunting itbecamerapidagainandwewerecompelled tomakeourwayalong the shorewhile Joeendeavored togetup in thebirchalonethoughitwasstillverydifficultforhimtopickhiswayamidtherocksinthenightWeon theshorefound theworstofwalkingaperfectchaosof fallenand drifted trees and of bushes projecting far over thewater and now andthen wemade our way across the mouth of a small tributary on a kind ofnetworkof aldersSowewent tumblingon in thedark beingon the shadysideeffectuallyscaringallthemooseandbearsthatmightbethereaboutsAtlengthwe came to a standstill and Joewent forward to reconnoitre but hereportedthat itwasstillacontinuousrapidasfarashewentorhalfamilewithnoprospectofimprovementasifitwerecomingdownfromamountainSoweturnedabouthuntingbacktothecampthroughthestillwaterItwasasplendid moonlight night and I getting sleepy as it grew latemdashfor I hadnothing to domdashfound it difficult to realize where I was This stream wasmuchmore unfrequented than themain one lumbering operations being nolongercarriedonin thisquarter Itwasonly threeorfourrodswidebut thefirsandsprucethroughwhichittrickledseemedyettallerbycontrastBeinginthisdreamystatewhichthemoonlightenhancedIdidnotclearlydiscernthe shore but seemedmost of the time to be floating through ornamentalgroundsmdashforIassociatedthefir-topswithsuchscenesmdashveryhighupsomeBroadway and beneath or between their tops I thought I saw an endlesssuccession of porticoes and columns cornices and faccedilades verandas andchurches I did notmerely fancy this but inmy drowsy state suchwas theillusion I fairly lost myself in sleep several times still dreaming of thatarchitectureandthenobilitythatdweltbehindandmightissuefromitbutallatonceIwouldbearousedandbroughtbacktoasenseofmyactualpositionby the sound of Joes birch horn in themidst of all this silence calling themooseughughoo-oo-oo-oo-oo-oo and Iprepared tohear a furiousmoosecomerushingandcrashingthroughtheforestandseehimburstoutontothelittlestripofmeadowbyoursideButonmoreaccountsthanoneIhadhadenoughofmoose-huntingIhadnotcometothewoodsforthispurposenorhadIforeseenit thoughIhadbeenwillingtolearnhowtheIndianmanœuvredbutonemoosekilledwasasgoodif not as bad as a dozen The afternoons tragedy andmy share in it as itaffected the innocence destroyed the pleasure ofmy adventure It is true IcameasnearasispossibletocometobeingahunterandmissitmyselfandasitisIthinkthatIcouldspendayearinthewoodsfishingandhuntingjustenoughtosustainmyselfwithsatisfactionThiswouldbenexttolivinglikeaphilosopheronthefruitsoftheearthwhichyouhadraisedwhichalsoattractsmeButthishuntingofthemoosemerelyforthesatisfactionofkillinghimmdashnotevenforthesakeofhishidemdashwithoutmakinganyextraordinaryexertion

or running any risk yourself is too much like going out by night to somewood-sidepastureandshootingyourneighborshorsesTheseareGodsownhorsespoor timidcreatures thatwill runfastenoughassoonas theysmellyouthoughtheyareninefeethighJoetoldusofsomehunterswhoayearortwo before had shot down several oxen by night somewhere in theMainewoodsmistakingthemformooseAndsomightanyofthehuntersandwhatisthedifferenceinthesportbutthenameIntheformercasehavingkilledoneofGodsandyourownoxenyoustripoff itshidemdashbecause that is thecommon trophy and moreover you have heard that it may be sold formoccasinsmdashcutasteakfromitshaunchesandleavethehugecarcasstosmelltoheavenforyouItisnobetteratleastthantoassistataslaughter-houseThis afternoons experience suggested to me how base or coarse are themotiveswhich commonly carrymen into thewilderness The explorers andlumberersgenerallyareallhirelingspaidsomuchadayfortheirlaborandassuch they have no more love for wild nature than wood-sawyers have forforests Other whitemen and Indians who come here are for themost parthunters whose object is to slay as manymoose and other wild animals aspossibleButpraycouldnotonespendsomeweeksoryearsinthesolitudeofthis vast wilderness with other employments than thesemdashemploymentsperfectlysweetandinnocentandennoblingForonethatcomeswithapencilto sketch or sing a thousand comewith an axe or rifleWhat a coarse andimperfectuseIndiansandhuntersmakeofnatureNowonderthattheirraceisso soonexterminated I alreadyand forweeksafterward feltmynature thecoarser for thispartofmywoodlandexperienceandwas reminded thatourlifeshouldbelivedastenderlyanddaintilyasonewouldpluckaflowerWiththesethoughtswhenwereachedourcamping-groundIdecidedtoleavemycompanionstocontinuemoose-huntingdownthestreamwhileIpreparedthecampthoughtheyrequestedmenottochopmuchnormakealargefireforfearIshouldscaretheirgameInthemidstofthedampfirwoodhighonthemossybankaboutnineoclockofthisbrightmoonlightnightIkindledafirewhen theyweregone and sittingon the fir twigswithin soundof thefallsexaminedbyitslightthebotanicalspecimenswhichIhadcollectedthatafternoon and wrote down some of the reflections which I have hereexpanded or I walked along the shore and gazed up the streamwhere thewholespaceabovethefallswasfilledwithmellowlightAsIsatbeforethefireonmyfir-twigseatwithoutwallsaboveoraroundmeIrememberedhowfar on every hand that wilderness stretched before you came to cleared orcultivatedfieldsandwonderedifanybearormoosewaswatchingthelightofmyfire forNature lookedsternlyuponmeonaccountof themurderof themooseStrange that so few ever come to thewoods to see how the pine lives and

grows and spires lifting its evergreen arms to the lightmdashto see its perfectsuccessbutmostarecontenttobeholditintheshapeofmanybroadboardsbrought tomarket and deem that its true success But the pine is nomorelumberthanmanisandtobemadeintoboardsandhousesisnomoreitstrueandhighestusethanthetruestuseofamanistobecutdownandmadeintomanureThereisahigherlawaffectingourrelationtopinesaswellastomenApinecutdownadeadpineisnomoreapinethanadeadhumancarcassisamanCanhewhohasdiscoveredonlysomeof thevaluesofwhaleboneandwhaleoilbesaid tohavediscovered the trueuseof thewhaleCanhewhoslaystheelephantforhisivorybesaidtohaveseentheelephantThesearepettyandaccidentalusesjustasifastrongerraceweretokillusinordertomakebuttonsandflageoletsofourbonesforeverythingmayservealoweraswellasahigheruseEverycreatureisbetteralivethandeadmenandmooseand pine trees and hewhounderstands it arightwill rather preserve its lifethandestroyitIs it the lumberman then who is the friend and lover of the pine standsnearesttoitandunderstandsitsnaturebestIsitthetannerwhohasbarkeditorhewhohasboxeditforturpentinewhomposteritywillfabletohavebeenchangedintoapineatlastNonoitisthepoetheitiswhomakesthetruestuseofthepinewhodoesnotfondleitwithanaxenortickleitwithasawnorstrokeitwithaplanewhoknowswhetheritsheartisfalsewithoutcuttingintoitwhohasnotbought thestumpageof the townshiponwhich itstandsAllthepines shudder andheavea sighwhen thatman stepson the forest floorNoitisthepoetwholovesthemashisownshadowintheairandletsthemstand I have been into the lumber-yard and the carpenters shop and thetannery and the lampblack factory and the turpentine clearing butwhen atlengthIsawthetopsofthepineswavingandreflectingthelightatadistancehigh over all the rest of the forest I realized that the former were not thehighestuseofthepineItisnottheirbonesorhideortallowthatIlovemostIt is the living spirit of the tree not its spirit of turpentine with which IsympathizeandwhichhealsmycutsItisasimmortalasIamandperchancewillgotoashighaheaventheretotowerabovemestillErelongthehuntersreturnednothavingseenamoosebutinconsequenceofmysuggestionsbringingaquarterofthedeadonewhichwithourselvesmadequitealoadforthecanoeAfterbreakfastingonmoosemeatwereturneddownPineStreamonourwaytoChesuncookLakewhichwasaboutfivemilesdistantWecouldseetheredcarcassof themoose lying inPineStreamwhennearlyhalf amileoff Justbelowthemouthofthisstreamwerethemostconsiderablerapidsbetweenthetwo lakes called Pine Stream Falls where were large flat rocks washedsmooth and at this time you could easilywade across above them Joe ran

down alone while we walked over the portage my companion collectingsprucegumforhisfriendsathomeandIlookingforflowersNearthelakewhich we were approaching with as much expectation as if it had been auniversitymdashfor it is not often that the stream of our life opens into suchexpansionsmdashwereislandsandalowandmeadowyshorewithscatteredtreesbircheswhiteandyellowslantedover thewaterandmaplesmdashmanyof thewhitebircheskilledapparentlybyinundationsTherewasconsiderablenativegrassandevenafewcattlemdashwhosemovementsweheardthoughwedidnotseethemmistakingthematfirstformoosemdashwerepasturedthereOnenteringthelakewherethestreamrunssoutheasterlyandforsometimebeforewehadaviewof themountains aboutKtaadn (Katahdinauquohonesays theyarecalled) likea clusterofblue fungiof rankgrowth apparentlytwenty-five or thirty miles distant in a southeast direction their summitsconcealedbyclouds Joecalled someof them theSowadnehunkMountainsThis is the name of a stream there which another Indian told us meantrunning betweenmountains Though some lower summits were afterwarduncoveredwe got nomore complete viewofKtaadnwhilewewere in thewoodsTheclearingtowhichwewereboundwasontherightofthemouthoftheriverandwasreachedbygoingrounda lowpointwhere thewaterwasshallow to a great distance from the shore Chesuncook Lake extendsnorthwest and southeast and is called eighteen miles long and three widewithoutan islandWehadentered thenorthwestcornerof itandwhennearthe shore could see only partway down it The principalmountains visiblefromthelandherewerethosealreadymentionedbetweensoutheastandeastandafewsummitsalittlewestofnorthbutgenerallythenorthandnorthwesthorizonabouttheStJohnandtheBritishboundarywascomparativelylevelAnsellSmithstheoldestandprincipalclearingaboutthislakeappearedtobequiteaharborforbatteauxandcanoessevenoreightoftheformerwerelyingaboutandtherewasasmallscowforhayandacapstanonaplatformnowhighanddryreadytobefloatedandanchoredtotowraftswithItwasaveryprimitivekindofharborwhereboatsweredrawnupamidthestumpsmdashsuchaonemethoughtastheArgomighthavebeenlaunchedinTherewerefiveotherhutswithsmallclearingsontheoppositesideofthelakeallatthisendandvisiblefromthispointOneoftheSmithstoldmethatitwassofarclearedthat they came here to live and built the present house four years beforethoughthefamilyhadbeenherebutafewmonthsIwasinterestedtoseehowapioneerlivedonthissideofthecountryHislifeisinsomerespectsmoreadventurousthanthatofhisbrotherintheWestforhe contends with winter as well as the wilderness and there is a greaterintervalof timeat leastbetweenhimand the armywhich is to followHereimmigrationisatidewhichmayebbwhenithassweptawaythepinesthereit

is not a tide but an inundation and roads and other improvements comesteadilyrushingafterAsweapproachedtheloghouseadozenrodsfromthelakeandconsiderablyelevated above it the projecting ends of the logs lapping over each otherirregularlyseveralfeetatthecornersgaveitaveryrichandpicturesquelookfarremovedfromthemeannessofweather-boardsItwasaveryspaciouslowbuildingabouteightyfeetlongwithmanylargeapartmentsThewallswerewellclayedbetweenthelogswhichwerelargeandroundexceptontheupperand under sides and as visible inside as out successive bulging cheeksgradually lessening upwards and tuned to each other with the axe likePandeanpipesProbablythemusicalforestgodshadnotyetcastthemasidethey never do till they are split or the bark is gone It was a style ofarchitecturenotdescribedbyVitruviusIsuspectthoughpossiblyhintedatinthebiographyofOrpheusnoneofyourfrilledorflutedcolumnswhichhavecutsuchafalseswellandsupportnothingbutagableendandtheirbuilderspretensionsmdashthat iswith themultitude andas for ornamentationoneofthosewordswith a dead tailwhich architects very properly use to describetheirflourishestherewerethelichensandmossesandfringesofbarkwhichnobody troubledhimselfaboutWecertainly leave thehandsomestpaintandclapboards behind in the woods when we strip off the bark and poisonourselveswithwhite-leadinthetownsWegetbuthalfthespoilsoftheforestFor beauty give me trees with the fur on This house was designed andconstructed with the freedom of stroke of a foresters axe without othercompass and square thanNature usesWherever the logswere cut off by awindowordoorthatiswerenotkeptinplacebyalternateoverlappingtheywereheldoneuponanotherbyverylargepinsdrivenindiagonallyoneachsidewherebranchesmighthavebeenandthencutoffsocloseupanddownasnottoprojectbeyondthebulgeofthelogasifthelogsclaspedeachotherintheirarmsTheselogswerepostsstudsboardsclapboardslathsplasterandnailsallinoneWherethecitizenusesameresliverorboardthepioneerusesthewholetrunkofatreeThehousehadlargestonechimneysandwasroofedwithspruce-barkThewindowswereimportedallbutthecasingsOneendwasaregularloggerscampfortheboarderswiththeusualfirfloorandlogbenchesThusthishousewasbutaslightdeparturefromthehollowtreewhichthebearstillinhabitsmdashbeingahollowmadewithtreespiledupwithacoatingofbarklikeitsoriginalThe cellarwas a separate building like an ice-house and it answered for arefrigerator at this seasonourmoosemeatbeingkept there Itwasapotatohole with a permanent roof Each structure and institution here was soprimitive that you could at once refer it to its source but our buildingscommonly suggest neither their origin nor their purposeTherewas a largeandwhatfarmerswouldcallhandsomebarnpartofwhoseboardshadbeen

sawedby awhip-saw and the saw-pitwith its great pile of dust remainedbeforethehouseThelongsplitshinglesonaportionofthebarnwerelaidafoottotheweathersuggestingwhatkindofweathertheyhavethereGrantsbarn at Caribou Lake was said to be still larger the biggest ox-nest in thewoodsfiftyfeetbyahundredThinkofamonsterbarninthatprimitiveforestliftingitsgraybackabovethetree-topsManmakesverymuchsuchanestforhisdomesticanimalsofwitheredgrassandfodderasthesquirrelsandmanyotherwildcreaturesdoforthemselvesTherewasalsoablacksmiths shopwhereplainlyagooddealofworkwasdoneTheoxenandhorsesusedinlumberingoperationswereshodandalltheiron-workofsledsetcwasrepairedormadehereIsawthemloadabatteauattheMooseheadCarrythenextTuesdaywithaboutthirteenhundredweightof bar iron for this shop This remindedme howprimitive and honorable atradewasVulcansIdonothearthattherewasanycarpenterortailoramongthegodsThesmithseemstohaveprecededtheseandeveryothermechanicatChesuncook as well as on Olympus and his family is the most widelydispersedwhetherhebechristenedJohnorAnsellSmith owned twomiles down the lake by half amile inwidthTherewereaboutonehundredacresclearedhereHecutseventytonsofEnglishhaythisyearon thisgroundand twentymoreonanotherclearingandheuses itallhimselfinlumberingoperationsThebarnwascrowdedwithpressedhayandamachinetopressitTherewasalargegardenfullofrootsmdashturnipsbeetscarrotspotatoesetcallofgreatsizeTheysaidthattheywereworthasmuchhereasinNewYorkIsuggestedsomecurrantsforsauceespeciallyastheyhadnoappletreessetoutandshowedhoweasilytheycouldbeobtainedThere was the usual long-handled axe of the primitive woods by the doorthreeandahalffeetlongmdashformynewblack-ashrulewasinconstantusemdashandalargeshaggydogwhosenosereportsaidwasfullofporcupinequillsI can testify that he looked very sober This is the usual fortune of pioneerdogsfortheyhavetofacethebruntofthebattlefortheirraceandactthepartofArnoldWinkelriedwithoutintendingitIfheshouldinviteoneofhistownfriendsupthiswaysuggestingmoosemeatandunlimitedfreedomthelattermight pertinently inquire What is that sticking in your nose When agenerationortwohaveusedupalltheenemiesdartstheirsuccessorsleadacomparativelyeasylifeWeowetoourfathersanalogousblessingsManyoldpeople receive pensions for no other reason it seems to me but as acompensationforhavinglivedalongtimeagoNodoubtourtowndogsstilltalkinasnufflingwayaboutthedaysthattrieddogsnosesHowtheygotacat up there I donotknow for they are as shy asmyaunt about entering acanoeIwonderedthatshedidnotrunupatreeonthewaybutperhapsshewasbewilderedbytheverycrowdofopportunities

TwentyorthirtylumberersYankeeandCanadianwerecomingandgoingmdashAleckamongtherestmdashandfromtimetotimeanIndiantouchedhereInthewinter there are sometimes a hundred men lodged here at once The mostinterestingpieceofnewsthatcirculatedamongthemappearedtobethatfourhorsesbelongingtoSmithworthsevenhundreddollarshadpassedbyfartherintothewoodsaweekbeforeThewhite pine treewas at the bottomor farther end of all this It is awaragainstthepinestheonlyrealAroostookorPenobscotwarIhavenodoubtthattheylivedprettymuchthesamesortoflifeintheHomericageformenhavealwaysthoughtmoreofeatingthanoffightingthenasnowtheirmindsranchieflyonthehotbreadandsweetcakesandthefurandlumbertradeisanoldstorytoAsiaandEuropeIdoubtifmenevermadeatradeofheroismIn the days ofAchilles even they delighted in big barns and perchance inpressedhayandhewhopossessedthemostvaluableteamwasthebestfellowWehaddesignedtogoonateveninguptheCaucomgomocwhosemouthwasamileor twodistant to the lakeof thesamenameabout tenmilesoffbutsome Indians of Joes acquaintance who were making canoes on theCaucomgomoccameoverfromthatsideandgavesopooranaccountofthemoose-hunting so many had been killed there lately that my companionsconcluded not to go there Joe spent this Sunday and the night with hisacquaintancesThelumbererstoldmethatthereweremanymoosehereaboutsbutnocaribouordeerAmanfromOldtownhadkilledtenortwelvemoosewithinayear sonear thehouse that theyheardallhisgunsHisnamemayhavebeenHerculesforaughtIknowthoughIshouldratherhaveexpectedtohear the rattling of his club but no doubt he keeps pace with theimprovementsoftheageandusesaSharpsriflenowprobablyhegetsallhisarmor made and repaired at Smiths shop One moose had been killed andanother shot at within sight of the house within two years I do not knowwhetherSmithhasyetgotapoettolookafterthecattlewhichonaccountoftheearlybreakingupoftheicearecompelledtosummerinthewoodsbutIwouldsuggestthisofficetosuchofmyacquaintancesaslovetowriteversesandgoa-gunningAfter a dinner at which apple-saucewas the greatest luxury tome but ourmoose meat was oftenest called for by the lumberers I walked across theclearingintotheforestsouthwardreturningalongtheshoreFormydessertIhelpedmyself to a large slice of theChesuncookwoods and took a heartydraughtofitswaterswithallmysensesThewoodswereasfreshandfullofvegetable life as a lichen in wet weather and contained many interestingplantsbutunlesstheyareofwhitepinetheyaretreatedwithaslittlerespecthere as amildew and in the other case they are only themore quickly cutdownTheshorewasofcoarseflatslaterocksofteninslabswiththesurf

beatingonitTherocksandbleacheddrift-logsextendingsomewayintotheshaggywoodsshowedariseandfallofsixoreightfeetcausedpartlybythedamattheoutletTheysaidthatinwinterthesnowwasthreefeetdeeponalevelhereandsometimesfourorfivemdashthattheiceonthelakewastwofeetthick clear and four feet including the snow-ice Icehad already formed invesselsWe lodgedhere thisSundaynight in a comfortablebedroomapparently thebest one and all that I noticed unusual in the nightmdashfor I still kept takingnoteslikeaspyinthecampmdashwasthecreakingofthethinsplitboardswhenanyofourneighborsstirredSuchwerethefirstrudebeginningsofatownTheyspokeofthepracticabilityof awinter road to theMooseheadCarrywhichwould not costmuch andwouldconnect themwithsteamandstagingandall thebusyworldIalmostdoubted if the lakewould be theremdashthe self-same lakemdashpreserve its formand identitywhen theshoresshouldbeclearedandsettledas if these lakesandstreamswhichexplorersreportneverawaitedtheadventofthecitizenThe sight of one of these frontier houses built of these great logs whoseinhabitants have unflinchingly maintained their ground many summers andwinters in thewilderness remindsme of famous forts like Ticonderoga orCrown Point which have sustained memorable sieges They are especiallywinter-quartersandatthisseasonthisonehadapartiallydesertedlookasifthesiegewereraisedalittlethesnowbanksbeingmeltedfrombeforeitanditsgarrisonaccordingly reduced I thinkof theirdaily foodas rationsmdashit iscalledsuppliesaBibleandagreatcoataremunitionsofwaranda singleman seen about the premises is a sentinel on duty You expect that hewillrequirethecountersignandwillperchancetakeyouforEthanAllencometodemandthesurrenderofhisfortinthenameoftheContinentalCongressItisa sortof ranger serviceArnoldsexpedition isadailyexperiencewith thesesettlersTheycanprovethattheywereoutatalmostanytimeandIthinkthatallthefirstgenerationofthemdeserveapensionmorethananythatwenttotheMexicanwarEarly the next morning we started on our return up the Penobscot mycompanionwishingtogoabouttwenty-fivemilesabovetheMooseheadCarrytoacampnear the junctionof the twoforksand lookformoose thereOurhostallowedussomethingforthequarterofthemoosewhichwehadbroughtandwhichhewasgladtogetTwoexplorersfromChamberlainLakestartedatthesametimethatwedidRedflannelshirtsshouldbeworninthewoodsifonlyforthefinecontrastwhichthiscolormakeswiththeevergreensandthewater Thus I thoughtwhen I saw the forms of the explorers in their birchpolingup the rapids before us far off against the forest It is the surveyorscoloralsomostdistinctlyseenunderallcircumstancesWestoppedtodineat

Ragmuff as beforeMy companion it was whowandered up the stream tolookformoosethistimewhileJoewenttosleeponthebanksothatwefeltsureofhimandIimprovedtheopportunitytobotanizeandbatheSoonafterstartingagainwhileJoewasgonebackinthecanoeforthefrying-panwhichhadbeenleftwepickedacoupleofquartsoftree-cranberriesforasauceIwassurprisedbyJoesaskingmehowfaritwastotheMoosehornHewasprettywellacquaintedwiththisstreambuthehadnoticedthatIwascuriousaboutdistancesandhadseveralmapsHeandIndiansgenerallywithwhomIhavetalkedarenotabletodescribedimensionsordistancesinourmeasureswithanyaccuracyHecouldtellperhapsatwhattimeweshouldarrivebutnothowfar itwasWesawafewwoodduckssheldrakesandblackducksbuttheywerenotsonumerousthereatthatseasonasonourriverathomeWescaredthesamefamilyofwoodducksbeforeusgoingandreturningWealsoheardthenoteofonefishhawksomewhatlikethatofapigeonwoodpeckerandsoonaftersawhimperchednearthetopofadeadwhitepineagainsttheisland where we had first camped while a company of peetweets weretwitteringandteeteringaboutoverthecarcassofamooseonalowsandyspitjustbeneathWedrovethefishhawkfromperchtopercheachtimeelicitingascreamorwhistleformanymilesbeforeusOurcoursebeingup-streamwewere obliged to workmuch harder than before and had frequent use for apole Sometimes all three of us paddled together standing up small andheavilyladenasthecanoewasAboutsixmilesfromMooseheadwebegantosee themountains east of the north end of the lake and at four oclockwereachedthecarryThe Indians were still encamped here There were three including the StFrancis Indianwhohadcome in thesteamerwithusOneof theotherswascalledSabattis Joe and theStFrancis Indianwereplainly clear Indian theothertwoapparentlymixedIndianandwhitebutthedifferencewasconfinedtotheirfeaturesandcomplexionforallthatIcouldseeWeherecookedthetongueofthemooseforsuppermdashhavingleftthenosewhichisesteemedthechoicest part at Chesuncook boiling it being a good deal of trouble toprepareitWealsostewedourtree-cranberries(Viburnumopulus)sweeteningthemwith sugar The lumberers sometimes cook themwithmolasses TheywereusedinArnoldsexpeditionThissaucewasverygratefultouswhohadbeenconfinedtohard-breadporkandmoosemeatandnotwithstandingtheirseeds we all three pronounced them equal to the common cranberry butperhaps some allowance is to bemade for our forest appetites Itwould beworth thewhile to cultivate themboth for beauty and for food I afterwardsawtheminagardeninBangorJoesaidthattheywerecalledebeemenarWhile we were getting supper Joe commenced curing the moose-hide onwhichIhadsatagoodpartofthevoyagehehavingalreadycutmostofthe

hairoffwithhisknifeattheCaucomgomocHesetuptwostoutforkedpolesonthebanksevenoreightfeethighandasmuchasundereastandwestandhavingcutslitseightortenincheslongandthesamedistanceapartclosetotheedgeonthesidesofthehidehethreadedpolesthroughthemandthenplacingoneofthepolesontheforkedstakestiedtheotherdowntightlyatthebottomThetwoendsalsoweretiedwithcedarbarktheirusualstringtotheuprightpolesthroughsmallholesatshortintervalsThehidethusstretchedandslantedalittletothenorthtoexposeitsfleshsidetothesunmeasuredinthe extreme eight feet long by six highWhere any flesh still adhered Joeboldly scored it with his knife to lay it open to the sun It now appearedsomewhatspottedandinjuredbytheduckshotYoumayseetheoldframesonwhichhideshavebeenstretchedatmanycamping-placesinthesewoodsForsomereasonorother thegoing to theforksof thePenobscotwasgivenupandwedecided to stopheremycompanion intending tohuntdown thestreamatnightTheIndiansinvitedustolodgewiththembutmycompanioninclinedtogotothelogcamponthecarryThiscampwascloseanddirtyandhadanillsmellandIpreferredtoaccepttheIndiansofferifwedidnotmakeacampforourselvesforthoughtheyweredirtytootheyweremoreintheopenairandweremuchmoreagreeableandevenrefinedcompanythanthelumberers Themost interesting question entertained at the lumberers campwaswhichmancouldhandleanyotheronthecarryandforthemostparttheypossessednoqualitieswhichyoucouldnotlayhandsonSowewenttotheIndianscamporwigwamItwasratherwindyandthereforeJoeconcludedtohuntaftermidnightifthewindwentdownwhichtheotherIndiansthoughtitwouldnotdobecauseitwasfromthesouthThetwomixed-bloodshoweverwentoffuptheriverformooseatdarkbeforewearrivedattheircampThisIndiancampwasaslightpatched-up affair which had stood there several weeks built shed-fashionopentothefireonthewestIfthewindchangedtheycouldturnitroundItwasformedbytwoforkedstakesandacross-barwithraftersslantedfromthisto the ground The covering was partly an old sail partly birch-bark quiteimperfectbutsecurelytiedonandcomingdowntothegroundonthesidesAlarge log was rolled up at the back side for a headboard and two or threemoose-hideswere spreadon thegroundwith thehairupVariousarticlesoftheirwardrobewere tucked around the sides and corners or under the roofTheyweresmokingmoosemeatonjustsuchacrateasisrepresentedbyWithin De Brys Collectio Peregrinationum published in 1588 and which thenativesofBrazilcalledboucan(whencebuccaneer)onwhichwerefrequentlyshownpiecesofhumanfleshdryingalongwiththerestItwaserectedinfrontof thecampover theusual large fire in the formof anoblong squareTwostoutforkedstakesfourorfivefeetapartandfivefeethighweredrivenintothegroundateachendandthentwopolestenfeetlongwerestretchedacross

overthefireandsmalleroneslaidtransverselyontheseafootapartOnthelasthunglargethinslicesofmoosemeatsmokinganddryingaspacebeingleft open over the centre of the fire Therewas thewhole heart black as athirty-twopoundball hanging at one cornerThey said that it took threeorfourdaystocurethismeatanditwouldkeepayearormoreRefusepieceslayaboutonthegroundindifferentstagesofdecayandsomepiecesalsointhefirehalfburiedandsizzlingintheashesasblackanddirtyasanoldshoeTheselastIatfirstthoughtwerethrownawaybutafterwardsfoundthattheywerebeingcookedAlsoatremendousrib-piecewasroastingbeforethefirebeing impaledonanuprightstakeforced inandoutbetween theribsTherewasamoose-hidestretchedandcuringonpoleslikeoursandquiteapileofcuredskinsclosebyTheyhadkilled twenty-twomoosewithin twomonthsbutastheycouldusebutverylittleofthemeattheyleftthecarcasesonthegroundAltogetheritwasaboutassavageasightaswaseverwitnessedandIwas carried back at once three hundred years There weremany torches ofbirch-bark shaped like straight tin horns lying ready for use on a stumpoutsideFor fear of dirtwe spread our blankets over their hides so as not to touchthemanywhereTheStFrancisIndianandJoealonewerethereatfirstandwelayonourbackstalkingwiththemtillmidnightTheywereverysociableandwhen they did not talkwith us kept up a steady chatting in their ownlanguageWe heard a small bird just after dark which Joe said sang at acertain hour in the nightmdashat ten oclock he believed We also heard thehylodesandtree-toadsandthelumbererssingingintheircampaquarterofamile off I told them that I had seen pictured in old books pieces of humanfleshdryingonthesecrateswhereupontheyrepeatedsometraditionabouttheMohawks eating human fleshwhat parts they preferred etc and also of abattlewith theMohawksnearMoosehead inwhichmanyof the latterwerekilled but I found that they knewbut little of the history of their race andcouldbeentertainedbystoriesabouttheirancestorsasreadilyasanywayAtfirstIwasnearlyroastedoutforIlayagainstonesideofthecampandfelttheheatreflectednotonlyfromthebirch-barkabovebutfromthesideandagain I remembered the sufferings of the Jesuit missionaries and whatextremes of heat and cold the Indianswere said to endure I struggled longbetweenmydesiretoremainandtalkwiththemandmyimpulsetorushoutand stretchmyself on the cool grass andwhen Iwas about to take the laststep Joehearingmymurmursor elsebeinguncomfortablehimself gotupand partially dispersed the fire I suppose that that is Indian mannersmdashtodefendyourselfWhile lying there listening to the Indians I amused myself with trying toguessattheirsubjectbytheirgesturesorsomepropernameintroducedTherecanbenomorestartlingevidenceoftheirbeingadistinctandcomparatively

aboriginal race than to hear this unaltered Indian languagewhich thewhitemancannotspeaknorunderstandWemaysuspectchangeanddeteriorationinalmost every other particular but the language which is so whollyunintelligible to us It took me by surprise though I had found so manyarrowheads and convinced me that the Indian was not the invention ofhistorians andpoets Itwas apurelywild andprimitiveAmerican sound asmuchasthebarkingofachickareeandIcouldnotunderstandasyllableofitbut Paugus had he been there would have understood it These AbenakisgossipedlaughedandjestedinthelanguageinwhichEliotsIndianBibleiswritten the languagewhichhasbeenspoken inNewEnglandwhoshall sayhow long These were the sounds that issued from the wigwams of thiscountrybeforeColumbuswasborn theyhavenot yet died away andwithremarkably few exceptions the language of their forefathers is still copiousenoughforthemIfeltthatIstoodorratherlayasneartotheprimitivemanofAmericathatnightasanyofitsdiscovererseverdidInthemidstoftheirconversationJoesuddenlyappealedtometoknowhowlongMooseheadLakewasMeanwhileaswelaythereJoewasmakingandtryinghishorntobereadyforhunting aftermidnightTheStFrancis Indian also amusedhimselfwithsoundingitorrathercallingthroughitforthesoundismadewiththevoiceandnotbyblowingthroughthehornThelatterappearedtobeaspeculatorinmoose-hidesHeboughtmycompanionsfortwodollarsandaquartergreenJoe said that it was worth two and a half at Oldtown Its chief use is formoccasinsOneortwooftheseIndiansworethemIwastoldthatbyarecentlawofMaine foreigners are not allowed to killmoose there at any seasonwhiteAmericanscankill themonlyataparticularseasonbuttheIndiansofMaineatallseasonsTheStFrancisIndianaccordinglyaskedmycompanionforawighigginorbilltoshowsincehewasaforeignerHelivednearSorelIfoundthathecouldwritehisnameverywellTahmuntSwasenOneEllisanoldwhitemanofGuilfordatownthroughwhichwepassednotfarfromthesouthendofMooseheadwasthemostcelebratedmoose-hunterofthosepartsIndiansandwhitesspokewithequal respectofhimTahmuntsaid that thereweremoremooseherethanintheAdirondackcountryinNewYorkwherehehadhunted that threeyearsbefore therewereagreatmanyaboutandtherewereagreatmanynowinthewoodsbuttheydidnotcomeouttothewaterItwas of no use to hunt them atmidnightmdashtheywould not come out then Iasked Sabattis after he came home if the moose never attacked him HeansweredthatyoumustnotfiremanytimessoastomadhimIfireonceandhithimintherightplaceandinthemorningIfindhimHewontgofarButifyoukeepfiringyoumadhimIfiredoncefivebulletseveryonethroughtheheartandhedidnotmindematallitonlymadehimmoremadIaskedhimiftheydidnothuntthemwithdogsHesaidthattheydidsoinwinterbut

never in the summer for then it was of no use they would run right offstraightandswiftlyahundredmilesAnotherIndiansaidthatthemooseoncescaredwouldrunalldayAdogwillhangtotheirlipsandbecarriedalongtillheisswungagainstatreeanddropsoffTheycannotrunonaglazethoughtheycanruninsnowfourfeetdeepbut the caribou can run on ice They commonly find two or three moosetogetherTheycoverthemselveswithwaterallbuttheirnosestoescapefliesHehadthehornsofwhathecalledtheblackmoosethatgoesinlowlandsThesespreadthreeorfourfeetTheredmoosewasanotherkindrunningon mountains and had horns which spread six feet Such were hisdistinctionsBothcanmovetheirhornsThebroadflatbladesarecoveredwithhairandaresosoftwhentheanimalisalivethatyoucanrunaknifethroughthemTheyregarditasagoodorbadsignifthehornsturnthiswayorthatHiscaribouhornshadbeengnawedbymice inhiswigwambuthe thoughtthatthehornsneitherofthemoosenorofthecaribouwereevergnawedwhilethe creaturewas alive as somehave assertedAn Indianwhom Imet afterthisatOldtownwhohadcarriedaboutabearandotheranimalsofMainetoexhibittoldmethatthirtyyearsagotherewerenotsomanymooseinMaineasnow also that themoosewerevery easily tamed andwould comebackwhen once fed and so would deer but not caribou The Indians of thisneighborhood are about as familiar with the moose as we are with the oxhaving associatedwith them for somany generations Father Rasles in hisDictionary of the Abenaki Language gives not only a word for the malemoose(aianbeacute)andanotherforthefemale(hegraverar)butforthebonewhichisinthemiddleoftheheartofthemoose()andforhislefthindlegTherewerenoneofthesmalldeeruptheretheyaremorecommonaboutthesettlements One ran into the city of Bangor two years before and jumpedthrough a window of costly plate glass and then into a mirror where itthought it recognizedoneof itskindandoutagainandsoon leapingovertheheadsofthecrowduntilitwascapturedThistheinhabitantsspeakofasthedeerthatwenta-shoppingThelast-mentionedIndianspokeofthelunxusorIndiandevil(whichItaketobethecougarandnottheGuloluscus)astheonlyanimalinMainewhichmanneedfearitwouldfollowamananddidnotmind a fire He also said that beavers were getting to be pretty numerousagain where wewent but their skins brought so little now that it was notprofitabletohuntthemIhadputtheearsofourmoosewhichweretenincheslongtodryalongwiththemoosemeatoverthefirewishingtopreservethembutSabattistoldmethatImustskinandcurethemelsethehairwouldallcomeoffHeobservedthat they made tobacco pouches of the skins of their ears putting the twotogetherinsidetoinsideIaskedhimhowhegotfireandheproducedalittle

cylindrical box of friction matches He also had flints and steel and somepunkwhichwasnotdryI thinkitwasfromtheyellowbirchButsupposeyouupsetandalltheseandyourpowdergetwetThensaidhewewaittillwegettowherethereissomefireIproducedfrommypocketalittlevialcontainingmatchesstoppledwater-tightandtoldhimthat thoughwewereupset we should still have some dry matches at which he stared withoutsayingawordWe lay awake thus a long while talking and they gave us the meaning ofmanyIndiannamesoflakesandstreamsinthevicinitymdashespeciallyTahmuntI asked the Indian name of Moosehead Lake Joe answered SebamookTahmunt pronounced it Sebemook When I asked what it meant theyansweredMooseheadLakeAt lengthgettingmymeaning theyalternatelyrepeatedthewordovertothemselvesasaphilologistmightmdashSebamookmdashSebamookmdashnowand thencomparingnotes in Indian for therewasaslightdifferenceintheirdialectsandfinallyTahmuntsaidUghIknowmdashandherose up partly on the moose-hidemdashlike as here is a place and there is aplacepointingtodifferentpartsofthehideandyoutakewaterfromthereandfill thisand it stayshere that isSebamook Iunderstoodhim tomeanthatitwasareservoirofwaterwhichdidnotrunawaytherivercominginononesideandpassingoutagainnearthesameplaceleavingapermanentbayAnotherIndiansaidthatitmeantLargeBayLakeandthatSebagoandSebecthenamesofotherlakeswerekindredwordsmeaninglargeopenwaterJoesaidthatSebooismeantLittleRiverIobservedtheirinabilityoftendescribedto convey an abstract idea Having got the idea though indistinctly theygropedaboutinvainforwordswithwhichtoexpressitTahmuntthoughtthatthewhitescalleditMooseheadLakebecauseMountKineowhichcommandsitisshapedlikeamoosesheadandthatMooseRiverwassocalledbecausethemountainpointsrightacrossthelaketoitsmouthJohnJosselynwritingabout1673 says Twelvemiles fromCascoBayandpassable formenandhorsesisalakecalledbytheIndiansSebugOnthebrinkthereofatoneendisthefamousrockshapedlikeamoosedeerorhelkdiaphanousandcalledtheMoose RockHe appears to have confounded Sebamookwith SebagowhichisnearerbuthasnodiaphanousrockonitsshoreIgivemoreoftheirdefinitionsforwhattheyareworthmdashpartlybecausetheydiffer sometimes from the commonly received ones They never analyzedthesewordsbeforeAfterlongdeliberationandrepeatingofthewordmdashforitgave much troublemdashTahmunt said that Chesuncook meant a place wheremany streams emptied in () and he enumerated themmdashPenobscotUmbazookskusCusabesexRedBrooketcCaucomgomocmdashwhatdoesthatmeanWhatare those largewhitebirdsheaskedGulls said I UghGull Lake Pammadumcook Joe thought meant the Lake with GravellyBottomorBedKenduskeagTahmuntconcludedatlastafteraskingifbirches

went up itmdashfor he said that he was not much acquainted with itmdashmeantsomethinglikethisYougoupPenobscottillyoucometoKenduskeagandyougobyyoudont turnup thereThat isKenduskeag ()Another IndianhoweverwhoknewtheriverbettertoldusafterwardthatitmeantLittleEelRiverMattawamkeagwasaplacewheretworiversmeet()PenobscotwasRocky River One writer says that this was originally the name of only asectionofthemainchannelfromtheheadofthetide-watertoashortdistanceaboveOldtownA very intelligent Indian whom we afterward met son-in-law of Neptunegave us also these other definitions Umbazookskus MeadowStreamMillinoket Place of Islands Aboljacarmegus Smooth-Ledge Falls(andDeadwater)Aboljacarmeguscook thestreamemptying in (the lastwasthe word he gave when I asked about Aboljacknagesic which he did notrecognize)MattahumkeagSand-CreekPondPiscataquisBranchofaRiverI asked our hosts what Musketaquid the Indian name of ConcordMassachusettsmeantbuttheychangedittoMusketicookandrepeatedthatandTahmunt said that itmeantDeadStreamwhich is probably trueCookappearstomeanstreamandperhapsquidsignifiestheplaceorgroundWhenIaskedthemeaningofthenamesoftwoofourhillstheyansweredthattheywere another language As Tahmunt said that he traded at Quebec mycompanioninquiredthemeaningof thewordQuebecaboutwhichtherehasbeensomuchquestionHedidnotknowbutbegantoconjectureHeaskedwhat those great ships were called that carried soldiers Men-of-war weanswered Well he said when the English ships came up the river theycouldnotgoanyfartheritwassonarrowtheretheymustgobackmdashgo-backmdashthatsQue-becImentionthistoshowthevalueofhisauthorityintheothercasesLate at night the other two Indians came home from moose-hunting nothaving been successful aroused the fire again lighted their pipes smokedawhiletooksomethingstrongtodrinkandatesomemoosemeatandfindingwhatroomtheycouldlaydownonthemoose-hidesandthuswepassedthenighttwowhitemenandfourIndianssidebysideWhenIawokein themorningtheweatherwasdrizzlingOneof theIndianswas lying outside rolled in his blanket on the opposite side of the fire forwantofroomJoehadneglectedtoawakemycompanionandhehaddonenohunting that night Tahmunt was making a cross-bar for his canoe with asingularly shaped knife such as I have since seen other Indians using Thebladewasthinaboutthreequartersofaninchwideandeightornineincheslong but curved out of its plane into a hook which he said made it moreconvenienttoshavewithAstheIndiansveryfarnorthandnorthwestusethesame kind of knife I suspect that it was made according to an aboriginal

patternthoughsomewhiteartisansmayuseasimilaroneTheIndiansbakedaloafofflourbreadinaspideronitsedgebeforethefirefortheirbreakfastandwhilemycompanionwasmaking tea Icaughtadozensizablefishes inthePenobscottwokindsofsuckerandonetroutAfterwehadbreakfastedbyourselvesoneofourbed-fellowswhohadalsobreakfastedcamealongandbeing invited took a cup of tea and finally taking up the common platterlicked it cleanBut hewas nothing to awhite fellow a lumbererwhowascontinuallystuffinghimselfwiththeIndiansmoosemeatandwasthebuttofhiscompanionsaccordinglyHeseemstohavethoughtthatitwasafeasttoeatallItiscommonlysaidthatthewhitemanfinallysurpassestheIndianonhis own ground and it was proved true in this case I cannot swear to hisemploymentduringthehoursofdarknessbutIsawhimatitagainassoonasitwaslightthoughhecameaquarterofamiletohisworkTherainpreventedourcontinuinganylongerinthewoodssogivingsomeofourprovisionsandutensilstotheIndianswetookleaveofthemThisbeingthesteamersdayIsetoutforthelakeatonceIwalkedoverthecarryaloneandwaitedattheheadofthelakeAneagleorsomeotherlargebirdflewscreamingawayfromitsperchbytheshoreatmyapproachForanhourafterIreachedtheshoretherewasnotahumanbeingtobeseenandIhadallthatwideprospecttomyselfIthoughtthatIheardthesoundofthesteamerbeforeshecameinsightontheopenlakeInoticedatthelandingwhenthesteamercameinoneofourbed-fellowswhohadbeena-moose-hunting thenightbefore nowvery sprucelydressed in a cleanwhiteshirtandfineblackpantsatrueIndiandandywhohadevidentlycomeoverthe carry to show himself to any arrivers on the north shore ofMooseheadLake just asNewYork dandies take a turn upBroadway and stand on thestepsofahotelMidwaythelakewetookonboardtwomanly-lookingmiddle-agedmenwiththeirbatteauwhohadbeenexploringforsixweeksasfarastheCanadalineandhadlettheirbeardsgrowTheyhadtheskinofabeaverwhichtheyhadrecentlycaughtstretchedonanovalhoopthoughthefurwasnotgoodatthatseasonItalkedwithoneofthemtellinghimthatIhadcomeallthisdistancepartlytoseewherethewhitepine theEasternstuffofwhichourhousesarebuilt grew but that on this and a previous excursion into another part ofMaineIhadfounditascarcetreeandIaskedhimwhereImustlookforitWithasmileheansweredthathecouldhardlytellmeHoweverhesaidthathehad foundenough toemploy two teams thenextwinter inaplacewheretherewas thought tobenone leftWhatwasconsideredatip-top treenowwasnotlookedattwentyyearsagowhenhefirstwentintothebusinessbuttheysucceededverywellnowwithwhatwasconsideredquiteinferiortimberthenTheexplorerusedtocutintoatreehigherandhigheruptoseeifitwas

false-heartedandiftherewasarottenheartasbigashisarmheletitalonebutnowtheycutsuchatreeandsaweditallaroundtherotanditmadetheverybestofboardsforinsuchacasetheywerenevershakyOneconnectedwith lumberingoperationsatBangor toldme that the largestpinebelongingtohisfirmcutthepreviouswinterscaledinthewoodsfourthousand five hundred feet and was worth ninety dollars in the log at theBangorboominOldtownTheycutaroadthreeandahalfmileslongforthistreealoneHethoughtthattheprincipallocalityforthewhitepinethatcamedownthePenobscotnowwasattheheadoftheEastBranchandtheAllegashaboutWebster Stream and Eagle and Chamberlain lakes Much timber hasbeen stolen from the public lands (Pray what kind of forest-warden is thePublic itself) Iheardofonemanwhohavingdiscoveredsomeparticularlyfine trees just within the boundaries of the public lands and not daring toemploy an accomplice cut them down and bymeans of block and tacklewithout cattle tumbled them into a stream and so succeeded in getting offwiththemwithouttheleastassistanceSurelystealingpinetreesinthiswayisnotsomeanasrobbinghen-roostsWereachedMonsonthatnightandthenextdayrodetoBangorallthewayinthe rain again varying our route a little Some of the taverns on this roadwhichwereparticularlydirtywereplainlyinatransitionstatefromthecamptothehouseThe next forenoon we went to Oldtown One slender old Indian on theOldtown shore who recognized my companion was full of mirth andgestureslikeaFrenchmanACatholicpriestcrossedtotheislandinthesamebatteauwith us The Indian houses are framedmostly of one story and inrowsonebehindanotherat thesouthendof theislandwithafewscatteredonesIcountedaboutfortynotincludingthechurchandwhatmycompanioncalled thecouncil-houseThe lastwhich I suppose is their town-housewasregularlyframedandshingledliketherestTherewereseveraloftwostoriesquiteneatwithfrontyards inclosedandoneat leasthadgreenblindsHereandthereweremoose-hidesstretchedanddryingabout themTherewerenocart-pathsnortracksofhorsesbutfootpathsverylittlelandcultivatedbutanabundanceofweedsindigenousandnaturalizedmoreintroducedweedsthanuseful vegetables as the Indian is said to cultivate the vices rather than thevirtues of the white man Yet this village was cleaner than I expected farcleaner than such Irish villages as I have seen The children were notparticularly ragged nor dirty The little boys met us with bow in hand andarrowonstringandcriedPutupacentVerilytheIndianhasbutafeebleholdonhisbownowbutthecuriosityofthewhitemanisinsatiableandfromthefirsthehasbeeneagertowitnessthisforestaccomplishmentThatelasticpieceofwoodwithitsfeathereddartsosuretobeunstrungbycontactwith

civilizationwillserveforthetypethecoat-of-armsofthesavageAlasfortheHunterRacethewhitemanhasdrivenofftheirgameandsubstitutedacentinitsplaceIsawanIndianwomanwashingatthewatersedgeShestoodonarockandafterdippingtheclothesinthestreamlaidthemontherockandbeatthemwithashortclubInthegraveyardwhichwascrowdedwithgravesand overrun with weeds I noticed an inscription in Indian painted on awoodengrave-boardTherewasalargewoodencrossontheislandSincemycompanionknewhimwecalledonGovernorNeptunewholivedina little ten-footer one of the humblest of them all Personalities areallowableinspeakingofpublicmenthereforeIwillgivetheparticularsofourvisit Hewas abedWhenwe entered the roomwhichwas one half of thehousehewassittingonthesideofthebedTherewasaclockhanginginonecorner He had on a black frock coat and black pants much worn whitecottonshirtsocksaredsilkhandkerchiefabouthisneckandastrawhatHisblack hair was only slightly grayed He had very broad cheeks and hisfeatures were decidedly and refreshingly different from those of any of theupstartNativeAmericanpartywhomIhaveseenHewasnodarkerthanmanyoldwhitemenHetoldmethathewaseighty-ninebuthewasgoinga-moose-hunting that fall ashehadbeen thepreviousoneProbablyhiscompanionsdidthehuntingWesawvarioussquawsdodgingaboutOnesatonthebedbyhissideandhelpedhimoutwithhisstoriesTheywereremarkablycorpulentwithsmoothroundfacesapparentlyfullofgood-humorCertainlyourmuch-abusedclimatehadnotdrieduptheiradiposesubstanceWhileweweretheremdashforwestayedagoodwhilemdashonewentover toOldtownreturnedandcutoutadresswhichshehadboughtonanotherbedintheroomTheGovernorsaidthathecouldrememberwhenthemooseweremuchlargerthattheydidnotusetobeinthewoodsbutcameoutofthewaterasalldeerdidMoosewas whale once Away down Merrimack way a whale came ashore in ashallow bay Seawent out and left him and he came up on land amooseWhatmadethemknowhewasawhalewas thatat firstbeforehebegantoruninbusheshehadnobowelsinsidebutmdashandthenthesquawwhosatonthebedbyhissideastheGovernorsaidandhadbeenputtinginawordnowandthenandconfirmingthestoryaskedmewhatwecalledthatsoftthingwefindalongtheseashoreJelly-fishIsuggestedYessaidhenobowelsbutjelly-fishThere may be some truth in what he said about the moose growing largerformerly for thequaintJohnJosselynaphysicianwhospentmanyyears inthisverydistrictofMaineintheseventeenthcenturysaysthatthetipsoftheirhornsaresometimesfoundtobetwofathomsasundermdashandheisparticulartotellusthatafathomissixfeetmdashand[theyare]inheightfromthetoeofthe fore foot to thepitchof the shoulder twelve footbothwhichhathbeentaken by some ofmy sceptique readers to bemonstrous lies and he adds

There are certain transcendentia in every creature which are the indeliblecharacterofGodandwhichdiscoverGodThis isagreaterdilemma tobecaught in than is presented by the cranium of the young Bechuana oxapparently another of the transcendentia in the collection of Thomas SteelUpper Brook Street London whose entire length of horn from tip to tipalongthecurveis13ft5indistance(straight)betweenthetipsofthehorns8 ft8frac12 inHowever the sizebothof themooseand thecougar as IhavefoundisgenerallyratherunderratedthanoverratedandIshouldbeinclinedtoaddtothepopularestimateapartofwhatIsubtractedfromJosselynsButwetalkedmostlywiththeGovernorsson-in-lawaverysensibleIndianand the Governor being so old and deaf permitted himself to be ignoredwhile we asked questions about him The former said that there were twopoliticalpartiesamongthemmdashoneinfavorofschoolsandtheotheropposedto themor rather theydidnotwish to resist thepriestwhowasopposed tothem The first had just prevailed at the election and sent their man to thelegislatureNeptuneandAitteonandhehimselfwereinfavorofschoolsHesaidIfIndiansgotlearningtheywouldkeeptheirmoneyWhenweaskedwhereJoesfatherAitteonwasheknewthathemustbeatLincolnthoughhewas about going a-moose-hunting for amessenger had just gone to himtheretogethissignaturetosomepapersIaskedNeptuneiftheyhadanyoftheoldbreedofdogsyetHeansweredYesButthatsaidIpointingtoonethathadjustcomeinisaYankeedogHeassentedIsaidthathedidnot look likeagoodone Ohyeshe said andhe toldwithmuchgustohowtheyearbeforehehadcaughtandheldbythethroatawolfAverysmallblackpuppyrushedintotheroomandmadeattheGovernorsfeetashesatinhis stockingswithhis legsdangling from thebedsideTheGovernor rubbedhis hands and dared him to come on entering into the sport with spiritNothingmore thatwas significant transpired tomy knowledge during thisinterviewThiswasthefirsttimethatIevercalledonagovernorbutasIdidnotaskforanofficeIcanspeakofitwiththemorefreedomAnIndianwhowasmakingcanoesbehindahouselookinguppleasantlyfromhis workmdashfor he knewmy companionmdashsaid that his namewasOld JohnPennyweightIhadheardofhimlongbeforeandI inquiredafteroneofhiscontemporariesJoeFour-pence-hapennybutalashenolongercirculatesImade a faithful study of canoe-building and I thought that I should like toserveanapprenticeshipatthattradeforoneseasongoingintothewoodsforbarkwithmybossmakingthecanoethereandreturninginitatlastWhilethebatteauwascomingovertotakeusoffIpickedupsomefragmentsofarrowheadsontheshoreandonebrokenstonechiselwhichweregreaternoveltiestotheIndiansthantomeAfterthisonOldFortHillatthebendofthe Penobscot three miles above Bangor looking for the site of an Indian

townwhichsomethinkstoodthereaboutsIfoundmorearrowheadsandtwolittledarkandcrumblingfragmentsofIndianearthenwareintheashesoftheirfiresTheIndiansontheislandappearedtolivequitehappilyandtobewelltreatedbytheinhabitantsofOldtownWe visitedVeaziesmills just below the islandwherewere sixteen sets ofsawsmdashsomegangsawssixteeninagangnot tomentioncircularsawsOnonesidetheywerehaulingthelogsupaninclinedplanebywater-powerontheotherpassingouttheboardsplanksandsawedtimberandformingtheminto raftsThe treeswere literallydrawnandquartered there In forming therafts they use the lower three feet of hard-wood saplings which have acrookedandknobbedbutt-endforboltspassingthemupthroughholesboredin the corners and sidesof the rafts andkeying them In another apartmenttheyweremakingfence-slatssuchasstandalloverNewEnglandoutofoddsand ends and it may be that I sawwhere the picket-fence behind which Idwell at home came from Iwas surprised to find a boy collecting the longedgingsofboardsasfastascutoffandthrustingthemdownahopperwherethey were ground up beneath the mill that they might be out of the wayotherwisetheyaccumulateinvastpilesbythesideofthebuildingincreasingthedangerfromfireorfloatingofftheyobstructtheriverThiswasnotonlya sawmill but a gristmill then The inhabitants ofOldtown Stillwater andBangorcannotsufferforwantofkindlingstuffsurelySomeget their livingexclusively by picking up the driftwood and selling it by the cord in thewinterInoneplaceIsawwhereanIrishmanwhokeepsateamandamanforthepurposehadcoveredtheshoreforalongdistancewithregularpilesandIwas told that he had sold twelve hundred dollarsworth in a yearAnotherwholivedbytheshoretoldmethathegotallthematerialofhisoutbuildingsandfencesfromtheriverandinthatneighborhoodIperceivedthatthisrefusewood was frequently used instead of sand to fill hollows with beingapparentlycheaperthandirtIgotmyfirstclearviewofKtaadnon thisexcursion fromahillabout twomilesnorthwestofBangorwhither Iwent for thispurposeAfter this IwasreadytoreturntoMassachusettsHumboldthaswrittenaninterestingchapterontheprimitiveforestbutnoonehasyetdescribed forme thedifferencebetween thatwild forestwhichonceoccupiedouroldesttownshipsandthetameonewhichIfindthereto-dayItisadifferencewhichwouldbeworthattending toThecivilizedmannotonlyclearsthelandpermanentlytoagreatextentandcultivatesopenfieldsbuthetamesandcultivatestoacertainextenttheforestitselfByhismerepresencealmosthechangesthenatureofthetreesasnoothercreaturedoesThesunand air and perhaps fire have been introduced and grain raised where itstands It has lost itswild damp and shaggy look the countless fallen and

decayingtreesaregoneandconsequentlythatthickcoatofmosswhichlivedonthemisgonetooTheearthiscomparativelybareandsmoothanddryThemostprimitiveplacesleftwithusaretheswampswherethesprucestillgrowsshaggy with usnea The surface of the ground in the Maine woods iseverywhere spongy and saturated with moisture I noticed that the plantswhich cover the forest floor there are such as are commonly confined toswamps with usmdashtheClintonia borealis orchises creeping snowberry andothersand theprevailingaster there is theAsteracuminatuswhichwithusgrowsindampandshadywoodsTheasterscordifoliusandmacrophyllusalsoarecommonastersoflittleornocolorandsometimeswithoutpetalsIsawno soft spreading second-growth white pines with smooth barkacknowledging the presence of thewoodchopper but even the youngwhitepineswerealltallandslenderrough-barkedtreesThose Maine woods differ essentially from ours There you are neverreminded that the wilderness which you are threading is after all somevillagers familiarwood-lot somewidows thirds fromwhich her ancestorshavesleddedfuelforgenerationsminutelydescribedinsomeolddeedwhichisrecordedofwhichtheownerhasgotaplantooandoldbound-marksmaybe foundevery forty rods ifyouwill search Tis true themapmay informyou that you stand on land granted by the State to some academy or onBinghams purchase but these names do not impose on you for you seenothingtoremindyouoftheacademyorofBinghamWhatweretheforestsofEnglandtotheseOnewriterrelatesoftheIsleofWightthatinCharlestheSecondstimetherewerewoodsintheislandsocompleteandextensivethatitissaidasquirrelmighthavetraveledinseveralpartsmanyleaguestogetheron the topof the trees If itwerenot for the rivers (andhemightgo roundtheirheads)asquirrelcouldheretravelthusthewholebreadthofthecountryWe have as yet had no adequate account of a primitive pine forest I havenoticedthatinaphysicalatlaslatelypublishedinMassachusettsandusedinourschoolsthewoodlandofNorthAmericaislimitedalmostsolelytothevalleysoftheOhioandsomeoftheGreatLakesandthegreatpineforestsoftheglobearenotrepresentedInourvicinityforinstanceNewBrunswickandMaine are exhibited as bare as Greenland It may be that the children ofGreenville at the foot ofMoosehead Lakewho surely are not likely to bescared by an owl are referred to the valley of theOhio to get an idea of aforestbut theywouldnotknowwhat todowith theirmoosebearcariboubeaver etc thereShallwe leave it to anEnglishman to informus that inNorthAmericabothintheUnitedStatesandCanadaarethemostextensivepineforests in theworldThegreaterpartofNewBrunswick thenorthernhalfofMaineandadjacentpartsofCanadanot tomentionthenortheasternpartofNewYorkandothertractsfartheroffarestillcoveredwithanalmostunbrokenpineforest

ButMaineperhapswillsoonbewhereMassachusettsisAgoodpartofherterritory is alreadyasbare andcommonplaceasmuchofourneighborhoodandhervillagesgenerally arenot sowell shadedasoursWe seem to thinkthat the earth must go through the ordeal of sheep-pasturage before it ishabitablebymanConsiderNahanttheresortofallthefashionofBostonmdashwhichpeninsula I sawbut indistinctly in the twilightwhen I steamedby itandthoughtthatitwasunchangedsincethediscoveryJohnSmithdescribeditin 1614 as the Mattahunts two pleasant isles of groves gardens andcornfields and others tell us that it was once well wooded and evenfurnishedtimbertobuildthewharvesofBostonNowitisdifficulttomakeatreegrowthereandthevisitorcomesawaywithavisionofMrTudorsuglyfences a rod high designed to protect a fewpear shrubsAndwhat arewecoming to inourMiddlesex townsAbald staring town-houseormeeting-houseandabareliberty-poleasleaflessasitisfruitlessforallIcanseeWeshall be obliged to import the timber for the last hereafter or splice suchsticksaswehaveAndourideasoflibertyareequallymeanwiththeseThevery willow-rows lopped every three years for fuel or powder and everysizablepineandoakorotherforesttreecutdownwithinthememoryofmanAsifindividualspeculatorsweretobeallowedtoexportthecloudsoutoftheskyorthestarsoutofthefirmamentonebyoneWeshallbereducedtognawtheverycrustoftheearthfornutrimentThey have even descended to smaller game They have lately as I hearinvented a machine for chopping up huckleberry bushes fine and soconverting them into fuelmdashbusheswhich for fruit alone areworth all thepear trees in thecountrymanytimesover (Icangiveyoua listof the threebestkindsifyouwantit)Atthisrateweshallallbeobligedtoletourbeardsgrow at least if only to hide the nakedness of the land andmake a sylvanappearanceThe farmer sometimes talks of brushingup simply as if bareground looked better than clothed ground than thatwhichwears its naturalvesturemdashasifthewildhedgeswhichperhapsaremoretohischildrenthanhiswholefarmbesideweredirtIknowofonewhodeservestobecalledtheTree-hater and perhaps to leave this for a newpatronymic to his childrenYouwouldthinkthathehadbeenwarnedbyanoraclethathewouldbekilledby the fallof a tree and sowas resolved toanticipate themThe journaliststhink that they cannot say too much in favor of such improvements inhusbandryitisasafethemelikepietybutasforthebeautyofoneofthesemodelfarmsIwouldasliefseeapatentchurnandamanturningitTheyare commonlyplacesmerelywhere somebody ismakingmoney itmaybecounterfeitingThevirtueofmakingtwobladesofgrassgrowwhereonlyonegrewbeforedoesnotbegintobesuperhumanNevertheless it was a relief to get back to our smooth but still variedlandscapeForapermanentresidenceitseemedtomethattherecouldbeno

comparison between this and thewilderness necessary as the latter is for aresource and a background the raw material of all our civilization ThewildernessissimplealmosttobarrennessThepartiallycultivatedcountryitiswhichchieflyhasinspiredandwillcontinuetoinspirethestrainsofpoetssuchascompose themassofany literatureOurwoodsaresylvanand theirinhabitants woodmen and rustics that is selvaggia and the inhabitants aresalvagesAcivilizedmanusingthewordintheordinarysensewithhisideasand associations must at length pine there like a cultivated plant whichclasps its fibresaboutacrudeandundissolvedmassofpeatAt theextremenorth the voyagers are obliged to dance and act plays for employmentPerhaps our own woods and fieldsmdashin the best wooded towns where weneed not quarrel about the huckleberriesmdashwith the primitive swampsscatteredhereand there in theirmidstbutnotprevailingover themare theperfectionofparksandgrovesgardensarborspathsvistasandlandscapesTheyare thenaturalconsequenceofwhatartandrefinementweasapeoplehavemdashthe common which each village possesses its true paradise incomparisonwithwhichallelaboratelyandwillfullywealth-constructedparksandgardensarepaltryimitationsOrIwouldrathersaysuchwereourgrovestwenty years ago The poets commonly is not a loggers path but awoodmansTheloggerandpioneerhaveprecededhimlikeJohntheBaptisteatenthewildhoneyitmaybebutthelocustsalsobanisheddecayingwoodand the spongy mosses which feed on it and built hearths and humanizedNatureforhimBut there are spirits of a yetmore liberal culture towhomno simplicity isbarrenTherearenotonlystatelypinesbutfragileflowersliketheorchisescommonly described as too delicate for cultivation which derive theirnutriment fromthecrudestmassofpeatTheseremindus thatnotonlyforstrengthbut forbeauty thepoetmust fromtime to time travel the loggerspathandtheIndianstrailtodrinkatsomenewandmorebracingfountainoftheMusesfarintherecessesofthewildernessThekingsofEnglandformerlyhadtheirforeststoholdthekingsgameforsportor food sometimesdestroyingvillages tocreateorextend themand IthinkthattheywereimpelledbyatrueinstinctWhyshouldnotwewhohaverenouncedthekingsauthorityhaveournationalpreserveswherenovillagesneedbedestroyedinwhichthebearandpantherandsomeevenofthehunterrace may still exist and not be civilized off the face of the earthmdashourforestsnottoholdthekingsgamemerelybuttoholdandpreservethekinghimself also the lord of creationmdashnot for idle sport or food but forinspiration and our own true recreation or shall we like the villains grubthemalluppoachingonourownnationaldomains

THEALLEGASHANDEASTBRANCH

I startedonmy thirdexcursion to theMainewoodsMonday July201857withonecompanionarrivingatBangorthenextdayatnoonWehadhardlyleftthesteamerwhenwepassedMollyMolassesinthestreetAslongasshelives the Penobscots may be considered extant as a tribe The succeedingmorning a relative of mine who is well acquainted with the PenobscotIndiansandwhohadbeenmycompanioninmytwopreviousexcursionsintotheMainewoodstookmeinhiswagontoOldtowntoassistmeinobtaininganIndianforthisexpeditionWewereferriedacrosstotheIndianIslandinabatteauThe ferrymansboyhadgot thekey to itbut the fatherwhowasablacksmithafteralittlehesitationcutthechainwithacold-chiselontherockHe told me that the Indians were nearly all gone to the seaboard and toMassachusetts partly on account of the smallpoxmdashof which they are verymuchafraidmdashhavingbrokenoutinOldtownanditwasdoubtfulwhetherweshouldfindasuitableoneathomeTheoldchiefNeptunehoweverwastherestillThe firstmanwesawon the islandwasan IndiannamedJosephPoliswhommy relative had known from a boy and now addressed familiarly asJoeHewas dressing a deer-skin in his yardThe skinwas spread over aslantinglogandhewasscrapingitwithastickheldbybothhandsHewasstoutlybuiltperhapsalittleabovethemiddleheightwithabroadfaceandasotherssaidperfectIndianfeaturesandcomplexionHishousewasatwo-storywhiteonewithblindsthebest-lookingthatInoticedthereandasgoodas an average one on aNewEngland village street Itwas surrounded by agarden and fruit-trees single cornstalks standing thinly amid the beansWeaskedhimifheknewanygoodIndianwhowouldlike togointo thewoodswithus that is to theAllegashLakesbywayofMooseheadandreturnbytheEastBranchofthePenobscotorvaryfromthisaswepleasedTowhichheansweredoutofthatstrangeremotenessinwhichtheIndianeverdwellstothewhitemanMeliketogomyselfmewantstogetsomemooseandkepton scraping the skinHis brother had been into thewoodswithmy relativeonly a year or two before and the Indian now inquiredwhat the latter haddone tohim thathedidnotcomeback forhehadnotseennorheard fromhimsinceAtlengthwegotroundtothemoreinterestingtopicagainTheferrymanhadtoldus thatall thebest IndiansweregoneexceptPoliswhowasoneof thearistocracyHetobesurewouldbethebestmanwecouldhavebutifhewentatallwouldwantagreatpricesowedidnotexpecttogethimPolisaskedatfirsttwodollarsadaybutagreedtogoforadollarandahalfandfiftycentsaweek for his canoeHewould come toBangorwithhis canoeby the sevenoclock train that eveningmdashwemightdependonhimWe thoughtourselveslucky to secure the services of thismanwhowas known to be particularly

steadyandtrustworthyI spent the afternoonwithmy companionwho had remained inBangor inpreparingforourexpeditionpurchasingprovisionshard-breadporkcoffeesugaretcandsomeindia-rubberclothingWehadatfirstthoughtofexploringtheStJohnfromitssourcetoitsmouthorelsetogoupthePenobscotbyitsEastBranchtothelakesoftheStJohnandreturnbywayofChesuncookandMooseheadWehadfinallyinclinedtothelastrouteonlyreversingtheorderofitgoingbywayofMooseheadandreturningbythePenobscototherwiseitwouldhavebeenallthewayupstreamandtakentwiceaslongAteveningtheIndianarrivedinthecarsandIledthewaywhilehefollowedmethreequartersofamiletomyfriendshousewiththecanoeonhisheadIdidnotknowtheexactroutemyselfbutsteeredbythelayofthelandasIdoin Boston and I tried to enter into conversation with him but as he waspuffing under the weight of his canoe not having the usual apparatus forcarryingitbutaboveallwasanIndianImightaswellhavebeenthumpingon the bottom of his birch thewhile In answer to the various observationswhich I made by way of breaking the ice he only grunted vaguely frombeneathhiscanoeonceortwicesothatIknewhewasthereEarly the nextmorning (July 23) the stage called for us the Indian havingbreakfastedwithusandalreadyplacedthebaggageinthecanoetoseehowitwouldgoMycompanionandIhadeachalargeknapsackasfullasitwouldhold andwehad two large india-rubber bagswhich held our provision andutensilsAsfortheIndianallthebaggagehehadbesidehisaxeandgunwasablanketwhichhebroughtlooseinhishandHoweverhehadlaidinastoreof tobaccoandanewpipefor theexcursionThecanoewassecurely lasheddiagonally across the top of the stage with bits of carpet tucked under theedgetopreventitschafingTheveryaccommodatingdriverappearedasmuchaccustomedtocarryingcanoesinthiswayasbandboxesAttheBangorHousewetookinfourmenboundonahuntingexcursiononeof the men going as cook They had a dog a middling-sized brindled curwhichranbythesideofthestagehismastershowinghisheadandwhistlingfrom time to time but after we had gone about three miles the dog wassuddenlymissing and two of the partywent back for himwhile the stagewhichwasfullofpassengerswaitedIsuggestedthathehadtakenthebacktrack for theBangorHouseAt length oneman came backwhile the otherkeptonThiswholepartyofhuntersdeclaredtheirintentiontostoptillthedogwasfoundbut theveryobligingdriverwasready towaitaspell longerHewasevidentlyunwillingtolosesomanypassengerswhowouldhavetakenaprivate conveyance or perhaps the other line of stages the next day Suchprogressdidwemakewithajourneyofoversixtymilestobeaccomplished

thatdayandarain-stormjustsettinginWediscussedthesubjectofdogsandtheirinstinctstillitwasthreadbarewhilewewaitedthereandthesceneryofthesuburbsofBangor is stilldistinctly impressedonmymemoryAfter fullhalfanhour theman returned leading thedogbya ropeHehadovertakenhimjustashewasenteringtheBangorHouseHewasthentiedonthetopofthestagebutbeingwetandcoldseveraltimesinthecourseofthejourneyhejumpedoffandIsawhimdanglingbyhisneckThisdogwasdependedontostopbearswithHehadalreadystoppedonesomewhere inNewHampshireandIcantestifythathestoppedastageinMaineThispartyoffourprobablypaidnothingfor thedogsridenorforhisrunwhileourpartyof threepaidtwodollarsmdashandwerechargedfourmdashforthelightcanoewhichlaystillonthetopItsoonbegantorainandgrewmoreandmorestormyas thedayadvancedThiswasthethirdtimethatIhadpassedoverthisrouteanditrainedsteadilyeachtimealldayWeaccordinglysawbutlittleofthecountryThestagewascrowdedall theway and I attended themore tomy fellow-travelers If youhadlookedinsidethiscoachyouwouldhavethoughtthatwewerepreparedtorunthegauntletofabandofrobbersfortherewerefourorfivegunsonthefront seat the Indians included andoneor twoon thebackone eachmanholding his darling in his arms One had a gun which carried twelve to apound It appeared that this party of hunters was going our way butmuchfarthermdashdown theAllegashandSt Johnand thenceupsomeotherstreamandacrosstotheRestigoucheandtheBayofChaleurtobegonesixweeksTheyhadcanoesaxesandsuppliesdepositedsomedistancealongtherouteTheycarriedflourandweretohavenewbreadmadeeverydayTheirleaderwasahandsomemanaboutthirtyyearsoldofgoodheightbutnotapparentlyrobust of gentlemanly address and faultless toilet such a one as youmightexpecttomeetonBroadwayInfactinthepopularsenseofthewordhewasthemost gentlemanly appearingman in the stage or that we saw on theroadHehadafairwhitecomplexionasifhehadalwayslivedintheshadeandan intellectual faceandwithhisquietmannersmighthavepassedforadivinitystudentwhohadseensomethingoftheworldIwassurprisedtofindontalkingwithhiminthecourseofthedaysjourneythathewasahunteratallmdashforhisgunwasnotmuchexposedmdashandyetmore to find thathewasprobablythechiefwhitehunterofMaineandwasknownallalongtheroadHehadalsohuntedinsomeoftheStatesfarthersouthandwestIafterwardsheardhim spokenof asonewhocould endure agreat deal of exposure andfatiguewithoutshowingtheeffectof itandhecouldnotonlyusegunsbutmake them being himself a gunsmith In the spring he had saved a stage-driverandtwopassengersfromdrowninginthebackwaterofthePiscataquisinFoxcroftonthisroadhavingswumashoreinthefreezingwaterandmadearaft and got them offmdashthough the horses were drownedmdashat great risk to

himselfwhile the only othermanwho could swimwithdrew to the nearesthouse toprevent freezingHecouldnowrideover this road fornothingHeknewourmanandremarkedthatwehadagoodIndianthereagoodhunteradding that hewas said to beworth $6000The Indian also knewhim andsaidtomethegreathunterTheformertoldmethathepracticedakindofstill-huntingneworuncommonin those parts that the caribou for instance fed round and round the samemeadowreturningonthesamepathandhelayinwaitforthemThe Indian sat on the front seat saying nothing to anybody with a stolidexpression of face as if barely awake to what was going on Again I wasstruckbythepeculiarvaguenessofhisreplieswhenaddressedinthestageoratthetavernsHereallyneversaidanythingonsuchoccasionsHewasmerelystirred up like a wild beast and passively muttered some insignificantresponseHisanswerinsuchcaseswasnevertheconsequenceofapositivementalenergybutvagueasapuffofsmokesuggestingnoresponsibilityandifyouconsideredityouwouldfindthatyouhadgotnothingoutofhimThiswasinsteadoftheconventionalpalaverandsmartnessofthewhitemanandequally profitable Most get no more than this out of the Indian andpronouncehim stolid accordingly Iwas surprised to seewhat a foolish andimpertinentstyleaMainemanapassengerusedinaddressinghimas ifhewereachildwhichonlymadehiseyesglistenalittleAtipsyCanadianaskedhimatataverninadrawlingtoneifhesmokedtowhichheansweredwithan indefinite Yes Wontyou lendmeyourpipea littlewhileasked theotherHe replied looking straight by themans headwith a face singularlyvacanttoallneighboringinterestsMegotnopipeyetIhadseenhimputanewonewithasupplyoftobaccointohispocketthatmorningOur little canoe so neat and strong drew a favorable criticism from all thewiseacresamongthetavernloungersalongtheroadBytheroadsideclosetothewheelsInoticedasplendidgreatpurplefringedorchiswithaspikeasbigasanepilobiumwhich Iwould fainhavestopped the stage topluckbutasthishadneverbeenknowntostopabearlikethecuronthestagethedriverwouldprobablyhavethoughtitawasteoftimeWhenwe reached the lake about half past eight in the evening itwas stillsteadily raining andharder thanbefore and in that fresh cool atmospherethehylodeswerepeepingandthetoadsringingaboutthelakeuniversallyasin the springwithus Itwasas if the seasonhad revolvedbackward twoorthreemonthsorIhadarrivedattheabodeofperpetualspringWehadexpected togoupon the lakeatonceandafterpaddlingup twoorthreemiles to campononeof its islandsbutonaccountof the steadyandincreasingrainwedecidedtogotooneof thetavernsfor thenight thoughformyownpartIshouldhavepreferredtocampout

About four oclock the nextmorning (July 24) though it was quite cloudyaccompaniedbythelandlordtothewatersedgeinthetwilightwelaunchedourcanoefromarockontheMooseheadLakeWhenIwastherefouryearsbeforewehadarathersmallcanoeforthreepersonsandIhadthoughtthatthistimeIwouldgetalargeronebutthepresentonewasevensmallerthanthatItwas18frac14feetlongby2feet6frac12incheswideinthemiddleandonefootdeepwithinsoIfoundbymeasurementandIjudgedthatitwouldweighnotfar from eighty pounds The Indian had recently made it himself and itssmallnesswas partly compensated for by its newness aswell as stanchnessandsolidityitbeingmadeofverythickbarkandribsOurbaggageweighedabout 166pounds so that the canoe carried about 600pounds in all or theweightoffourmenTheprincipalpartofthebaggagewasasusualplacedinthemiddleofthebroadestpartwhilewestowedourselvesinthechinksandcrannies that were left before and behind it where there was no room toextendourlegstheloosearticlesbeingtuckedintotheendsThecanoewasthusascloselypackedasamarket-basketandmightpossiblyhavebeenupsetwithoutspillinganyofitscontentsTheIndiansatonacross-barinthesternbutwe flaton thebottomwitha splintorchipbehindourbacks toprotectthemfromthecross-barandoneofuscommonlypaddledwiththeIndianHeforesaw that we should not want a pole till we reached the UmbazookskusRiveritbeingeitherdeadwaterordown-streamsofarandhewaspreparedtomakeasailofhisblanketinthebowsifthewindshouldbefairbutweneveruseditIthadrainedmoreorlessthefourpreviousdayssothatwethoughtwemightcountonsomefairweatherThewindwasatfirstsouthwesterlyPaddlingalongtheeasternsideofthelakeinthestillofthemorningwesoonsaw a few sheldrakes which the Indian called Shecorways and somepeetweetsNaramekechuson therockyshorewealsosawandheard loonsMedawislawhichhe saidwas a signofwind Itwas inspiriting tohear theregulardipof thepaddlesas if theywereourfinsorflippersandtorealizethatwewereat length fairlyembarkedWewhohad felt strangelyas stage-passengersandtavern-lodgersweresuddenlynaturalizedthereandpresentedwiththefreedomofthelakesandthewoodsHavingpassedthesmallrockyisles within two or three miles of the foot of the lake we had a shortconsultation respectingour course and inclined to thewestern shore for thesakeof its leeforotherwise if thewindshouldrise itwouldbeimpossibleforustoreachMountKineowhichisaboutmidwayupthelakeontheeastsidebutatitsnarrowestpartwhereprobablywecouldrecrossifwetookthewesternsideThewindisthechiefobstacletocrossingthelakesespeciallyinso small a canoeThe Indian remarked several times that he did not like tocrossthelakesinlittlumcanoebutneverthelessjustaswesayitmadenooddstohimHesometimestookastraightcourseupthemiddleofthelake

betweenSugarandDeerislandswhentherewasnowindMeasured on themapMoosehead Lake is twelvemileswide at thewidestplaceandthirtymileslonginadirectlinebutlongerasitliesThecaptainofthesteamercalled it thirty-eightmilesashesteeredWeshouldprobablygoaboutfortyTheIndiansaidthatitwascalledMspamebecauselargewaterSquawMountainrosedarklyonourleftneartheoutletoftheKennebecandwhattheIndiancalledSpencerBayMountainontheeastandalreadywesawMountKineobeforeusinthenorthPaddling near the shore we frequently heard the pe-pe of the olive-sidedflycatcheralsothewoodpeweeandthekingfisherthusearlyinthemorningTheIndianremindingusthathecouldnotworkwithouteatingwestoppedtobreakfast on themain shore southwest of Deer Island at a spot where theMimulusringensgrewabundantlyWetookoutourbagsandtheIndianmadea fire under a very large bleached log usingwhite pinebark from a stumpthoughhesaid thathemlockwasbetterandkindlingwithcanoebirchbarkOurtablewasa largepieceoffreshlypeeledbirchbark laidwrongsideupandourbreakfastconsistedofhard-breadfriedporkandstrongcoffeewellsweetenedinwhichwedidnotmissthemilkWhileweweregettingbreakfastabroodoftwelveblackdippershalfgrowncame paddling by within three or four rods not at all alarmed and theyloitered about as long as we stayed now huddled close together within acircle of eighteen inches in diameter now moving off in a long line verycunninglyYettheyboreacertainproportiontothegreatMooseheadLakeonwhosebosomtheyfloatedandIfeltasiftheywereunderitsprotectionLookingnorthwardfromthisplaceitappearedasifwewereenteringalargebayandwedidnotknowwhetherweshouldbeobligedtodivergefromourcourse and keep outside a point which we saw or should find a passagebetweenthisandthemainlandIconsultedmymapandusedmyglassandtheIndiandidthesamebutwecouldnotfindourplaceexactlyonthemapnorcouldwedetectanybreakintheshoreWhenIaskedtheIndianthewayheansweredIdontknowwhichIthoughtremarkablesincehehadsaidthathewasfamiliarwiththelakebut itappearedthathehadneverbeenupthisside Itwasmistydog-dayweatherandwehadalreadypenetratedasmallerbayofthesamekindandknockedthebottomoutofitthoughwehadbeenobligedtopassoverasmallbarbetweenanislandandtheshorewheretherewasbutjustbreadthanddepthenoughtofloatthecanoeandtheIndianhadobservedVeryeasymakumbridgeherebutnowitseemedthatifweheldon we should be fairly embayed Presently however though we had notstirredthemistliftedsomewhatandrevealedabreakintheshorenorthwardshowing that thepointwasaportionofDeer Islandand thatourcourse laywestwardofitWhereithadseemedacontinuousshoreeventhroughaglass

oneportionwasnowseenbythenakedeyetobemuchmoredistantthantheotherwhichoverlappeditmerelybythegreater thicknessof themistwhichstillrestedonitwhilethenearerorislandportionwascomparativelybareandgreen The line of separationwas very distinct and the Indian immediatelyremarked I guess you and I go theremdashI guess theres room formy canoethere This was his common expression instead of saying we He neveraddressedusbyournamesthoughcurioustoknowhowtheywerespelledandwhat they meant while we called him Polis He had already guessed veryaccuratelyatouragesandsaidthathewasforty-eightAfterbreakfastIemptiedthemeltedporkthatwasleft intothelakemakingwhatsailorscallaslickandwatchingtoseehowmuchitspreadoverandsmoothed the agitated surface The Indian looked at it a moment and saidThatmakehardpaddlumthroholdemcanoeSosayoldtimesWehastilyreloadedputtingthedisheslooseinthebowsthattheymightbeathand when wanted and set out again The western shore near which wepaddled along rose gently to a considerable height and was everywheredenselycoveredwiththeforestinwhichwasalargeproportionofhardwoodtoenlivenandrelievethefirandspruceThe Indian said that the usnea lichenwhichwe sawhanging from the treeswascalledchorchorqueWeaskedhimthenamesofseveralsmallbirdswhichwe heard this morning The wood thrush which was quite common andwhose note he imitated he said was called Adelungquamooktum butsometimeshecouldnot tell thenameof somesmallbirdwhich Iheardandknew but he said I tell all the birds about heremdashthis country cant telllittlumnoisebutIseeemthenIcantellIobservedthatIshouldliketogotoschooltohimtolearnhislanguagelivingontheIndianislandthewhilecouldnotthatbedoneOhyerherepliedgoodmanydosoIaskedhowlonghethought itwouldtakeHesaidoneweekItoldhimthatinthisvoyageIwouldtellhimallIknewandheshouldtellmeallheknewtowhichhereadilyagreedThe birds sang quite as in our woodsmdashthe red-eye redstart veery woodpeweeetcbutwesawnobluebirdsinallourjourneyandseveraltoldmeinBangor that they had not the bluebird there Mount Kineo which wasgenerallyvisiblethoughoccasionallyconcealedbyislandsorthemainlandinfronthadalevelbarofcloudconcealingitssummitandallthemountain-topsabout the lake were cut off at the same height Ducks of various kindsmdashsheldrake summerducks etcmdashwerequite commonand ranover thewaterbeforeusasfastasahorsetrotsThustheyweresoonoutofsightTheIndianaskedthemeaningofrealityasnearasIcouldmakeoutthewordwhich he said one of us had used also of interrent that is intelligent I

observed that he could rarely sound the letter r but used l as also r for lsometimes as load for road pickelel for pickerel Soogle Island for SugarIslandlockforrocketcYethetrilledtherprettywellaftermeHegenerallyaddedthesyllableumtohiswordswhenhecouldmdashaspaddlumetc I have once heard a Chippeway lecture whomade his audience laughunintentionally by puttingm after the word too which word he brought incontinuallyandunnecessarilyaccentingandprolongingthissoundintom-ahsonorouslyasifitwerenecessarytobringinsomuchofhisvernacularasarelieftohisorgansacompensationfortwistinghisjawsaboutandputtinghistongueintoeverycornerofhismouthashecomplainedthathewasobligedtodowhenhespokeEnglishTherewassomuchoftheIndianaccentresoundingthroughhisEnglishsomuchofthebow-arrowtangasmyneighborcallsitand Ihavenodoubt thatwordseemed tohim thebestpronounced Itwasawild and refreshing sound like that of the wind among the pines or theboomingofthesurfontheshoreI asked him the meaning of the word Musketicook the Indian name ofConcord River He pronounced it Muskeacuteeticook emphasizing the secondsyllable with a peculiar guttural sound and said that it meant deadwaterwhichitisandinthisdefinitionheagreedexactlywiththeStFrancisIndianwithwhomItalkedin1853OnapointonthemainlandsomemilessouthwestofSand-barIslandwherewe landed to stretchour legsand lookat thevegetationgoing inlanda fewstepsIdiscoveredafirestillglowingbeneathitsasheswheresomebodyhadbreakfastedandabedoftwigspreparedforthefollowingnightSoIknewnotonlythattheyhadjustleftbutthattheydesignedtoreturnandbythebreadthof the bed that therewasmore than one in the partyYoumight have gonewithin six feet of these signs without seeing them There grew the beakedhazeltheonlyhazelwhichIsawonthisjourneythediervillaruesevenfeethighwhichwasveryabundantonall the lakeand river shores andCornusstoloniferaorredosierwhosebarktheIndiansaidwasgoodtosmokeandwas calledmaquoxigill tobacco beforewhite people came to this countryIndiantobaccoTheIndianwasalwaysverycareful inapproaching theshore lestheshouldinjurehiscanoeontherockslettingitswingroundslowlysidewiseandwasstillmoreparticularthatweshouldnotstepintoitonshorenortillitfloatedfreeandthenshouldstepgentlylestweshouldopenitsseamsormakeaholeinthebottomHesaidthathewouldtelluswhentojumpSoonafter leaving this pointwepassed theKennebec or outlet of the lakeand heard the falls at the dam there for evenMooseheadLake is dammedAfterpassingDeerIslandwesawthelittlesteamerfromGreenvillefareastin themiddleof the lakeandsheappearednearlystationarySometimeswe

couldhardlytellherfromanislandwhichhadafewtreesonitHerewewereexposedtothewindfromoverthewholebreadthofthelakeandranalittleriskofbeingswampedWhile Ihadmyeye fixedon thespotwherea largefishhadleapedwetookinagallonortwoofwaterwhichfilledmylapbutwesoonreachedtheshoreandtookthecanoeoverthebaratSand-barIslandafewfeetwideonlyandsosavedaconsiderabledistanceOnelandedfirstatamoreshelteredplaceandwalking roundcaught thecanoeby theprow topreventitbeinginjuredagainsttheshoreAgain we crossed a broad bay opposite the mouth ofMoose River beforereaching the narrow strait atMountKineomadewhat the voyageurs call atraverse and found thewaterquite roughAvery littlewindon thesebroadlakesraisesaseawhichwillswampacanoeLookingofffromtheshorethesurfacemayappeartobeverylittleagitatedalmostsmoothamiledistantorifyouseeafewwhitecreststheyappearnearlylevelwiththerestofthelakebutwhenyougetoutsofaryoumayfindquiteasearunninganderelongbeforeyouthinkofitawavewillgentlycreepupthesideofthecanoeandfillyour lap like a monster deliberately covering you with its slime before itswallowsyouoritwillstrikethecanoeviolentlyandbreakintoitThesamethingmayhappenwhenthewindrisessuddenlythoughitwereperfectlycalmandsmooththereafewminutesbeforesothatnothingcansaveyouunlessyoucanswimashoreforitisimpossibletogetintoacanoeagainwhenitisupset Since you sit flat on the bottom though the danger should not beimminentalittlewaterisagreatinconveniencenottomentionthewettingofyour provisionsWe rarely crossed even a bay directly frompoint to pointwhentherewaswindbutmadeaslightcurvecorrespondingsomewhattotheshorethatwemightthesoonerreachitifthewindincreasedWhen thewind isaftandnot toostrong the IndianmakesaspritsailofhisblanketHethuseasilyskimsoverthewholelengthofthislakeinadayTheIndianpaddledononesideandoneofusontheothertokeepthecanoesteadyandwhenhewantedtochangehandshewouldsayTothersideHeassertedinanswertoourquestionsthathehadneverupsetacanoehimselfthoughhemayhavebeenupsetbyothersThinkofour littleeggshellofacanoe tossingacross thatgreat lake amereblackspecktotheeaglesoaringaboveitMycompanion trailedfor troutaswepaddledalongbut theIndianwarninghimthatabigfishmightupsetusfortherearesomeverylargeonesthereheagreed to pass the line quickly to him in the stern if he had a biteBesidestroutIheardofcuskwhitefishetcasfoundinthislakeWhile wewere crossing this bay whereMount Kineo rose dark before uswithin two or three miles the Indian repeated the tradition respecting this

mountainshavingancientlybeenacowmoosemdashhowamightyIndianhunterwhosenameIforgetsucceededinkillingthisqueenofthemoosetribewithgreat difficulty while her calf was killed somewhere among the islands inPenobscotBayandtohiseyesthismountainhadstilltheformofthemooseina recliningposture itsprecipitoussidepresenting theoutlineofherheadHe told this at some length though it did not amount to much and withapparent good faith and asked us howwe supposed the hunter could havekilledsuchamightymooseasthatmdashhowwecoulddoitWhereuponaman-of-war to firebroadsides intoherwas suggested etcAn Indian tells suchastoryasifhethoughtitdeservedtohaveagooddealsaidaboutitonlyhehasnotgot it to say and sohemakesup for thedeficiencybyadrawling tonelong-windednessandadumbwonderwhichhehopeswillbecontagiousWe approached the land again through pretty roughwater and then steereddirectlyacrossthelakeatitsnarrowestparttotheeasternsideandweresoonpartlyundertheleeofthemountainaboutamilenorthoftheKineoHousehavingpaddledabouttwentymilesItwasnowaboutnoonWe designed to stop there that afternoon and night and spent half an hourlookingalongtheshorenorthwardforasuitableplacetocampWetookoutallourbaggageatoneplaceinvainitbeingtoorockyandunevenandwhileengagedinthissearchwemadeourfirstacquaintancewiththemoose-flyAtlength half amile farther north by going half a dozen rods into the densespruceandfirwoodonthesideofthemountainalmostasdarkasacellarwefoundaplacesufficientlyclearandleveltoliedownonaftercuttingawayafewbushesWerequiredaspaceonlysevenfeetbysix forourbed the firebeingfourorfivefeetinfrontthoughitmadenooddshowroughthehearthwasbut itwasnotalwayseasy to find this in thosewoodsTheIndianfirstclearedapathtoitfromtheshorewithhisaxeandwethencarriedupallourbaggage pitched our tent andmade our bed in order to be ready for foulweather which then threatened us and for the night He gathered a largearmfuloffirtwigsbreakingthemoffwhichhesaidwerethebestforourbedpartly I thought because they were the largest and could be most rapidlycollectedIthadbeenrainingmoreorlessforfourorfivedaysandthewoodwasevendamper thanusualbuthegotdrybarkfor thefire fromtheundersideofadeadleaninghemlockwhichhesaidhecouldalwaysdoThisnoonhismindwasoccupiedwitha lawquestionandI referredhimtomycompanionwhowasa lawyer Itappeared thathehadbeenbuying landlately(Ithinkitwasahundredacres)buttherewasprobablyanincumbrancetoitsomebodyelseclaimingtohaveboughtsomegrassonitforthisyearHewished to know towhom the grass belonged andwas told that if the othermancouldprovethatheboughtthegrassbeforehePolisboughtthelandtheformer could take it whether the latter knew it or not To which he only

answered StrangeHewent over this several times fairly sat down to itwithhisbacktoatreeasifhemeanttoconfineustothistopichenceforthbutashemadenoheadwayonlyreachedthejumping-offplaceofhiswonderatwhitemensinstitutionsaftereachexplanationweletthesubjectdieHe said that he had fifty acres of grass potatoes etc somewhere aboveOldtownbesidessomeabouthishousethathehiredagooddealofhisworkhoeing etc andpreferredwhitemen to Indiansbecause theykeep steadyandknowhowAfterdinnerwereturnedsouthwardalongtheshoreinthecanoeonaccountof the difficulty of climbing over the rocks and fallen trees and began toascend the mountain along the edge of the precipice But a smart showercoming up just then the Indian crept under his canoe while we beingprotectedbyourrubbercoatsproceededtobotanizeSowesenthimbacktothecampforshelteragreeingthatheshouldcomethereforuswithhiscanoetoward night It had rained a little in the forenoon andwe trusted that thiswouldbetheclearing-upshowerwhichitprovedbutourfeetandlegswerethoroughlywet by the bushes The clouds breaking away a littlewe had aglorious wild view as we ascended of the broad lake with its fluctuatingsurface and numerous forest-clad islands extending beyond our sight bothnorthandsouthandtheboundlessforestundulatingawayfromitsshoresonevery side as densely packed as a rye-field and enveloping namelessmountainsinsuccessionbutabovealllookingwestwardoveralargeislandwasvisibleaverydistantpartofthelakethoughwedidnotthensuspectittobeMooseheadmdashatfirstamerebrokenwhitelineseenthroughthetopsoftheislandtreeslikehay-capsbutspreadingtoalakewhenwegothigherBeyondthis we saw what appears to be called Bald Mountain on the map sometwenty-fivemilesdistantnear thesourcesof thePenobscot Itwasaperfectlakeof thewoodsBut thiswasonlya transientgleam for the rainwasnotquiteoverLooking southward the heavens were completely overcast the mountainscapped with clouds and the lake generally wore a dark and stormyappearancebutfromitssurfacejustnorthofSugarIslandsixoreightmilesdistant therewas reflectedupward tous through themisty air abrightbluetinge from thedistantunseenskyofanother latitudebeyondTheyprobablyhad a clear sky then atGreenville the south endof the lakeStandingon amountain in themidst of a lakewherewouldyou look for the first signofapproachingfairweatherNotintotheheavensitseemsbutintothelakeAgainwemistookalittlerockyisletseenthroughthedriskwithsometallerbaretrunksorstumpsonitforthesteamerwithitssmoke-pipesbutasithadnotchangeditspositionafterhalfanhourwewereundeceivedSomuchdothe works ofman resemble the works of nature Amoosemightmistake a

steamer for a floating isle and not be scared till he heard its puffing or itswhistleIf I wished to see a mountain or other scenery under the most favorableauspicesIwouldgotoitinfoulweathersoastobetherewhenitclearedupwearetheninthemostsuitablemoodandnatureismostfreshandinspiringThereisnoserenitysofairasthatwhichisjustestablishedinatearfuleyeJackson in his Report on the Geology of Maine in 1838 says of thismountainHornstonewhichwillanswerforflintsoccursinvariouspartsoftheStatewheretrap-rockshaveacteduponsiliciousslateThelargestmassofthisstoneknownintheworldisMountKineouponMooseheadLakewhichappearstobeentirelycomposedofitandrisessevenhundredfeetabovethelakelevelThisvarietyofhornstoneIhaveseenineverypartofNewEnglandintheformofIndianarrowheadshatchetschiselsetcwhichwereprobablyobtained from thismountain by the aboriginal inhabitants of the country Ihavemyself foundhundredsof arrowheadsmadeof the samematerial It isgenerally slate-coloredwithwhite specksbecomingauniformwhitewhereexposed to the light and air and it breaks with a conchoidal fractureproducingaraggedcuttingedgeInoticedsomeconchoidalhollowsmorethanafootindiameterIpickedupasmallthinpiecewhichhadsosharpanedgethatIuseditasadullknifeandtoseewhatIcoulddofairlycutoffanaspenoneinchthickwithitbybendingitandmakingmanycutsthoughIcutmyfingersbadlywiththebackofitinthemeanwhileFromthesummitoftheprecipicewhichformsthesouthernandeasternsidesofthismountainpeninsulaandisitsmostremarkablefeaturebeingdescribedasfiveorsixhundredfeethighwelookedandprobablymighthavejumpeddownto thewateror to theseeminglydwarfish treeson thenarrowneckofland which connects it with the main It is a dangerous place to try thesteadiness of your nerves Hodge says that these cliffs descendperpendicularlyninetyfeetbelowthesurfaceofthewaterThe plants which chiefly attracted our attention on this mountain were themountaincinquefoil(Potentillatridentata)abundantandinbloomstillat theverybase by thewaterside though it is usually confined to the summits ofmountainsinourlatitudeverybeautifulharebellsoverhangingtheprecipicebear-berry the Canada blueberry (Vaccinium Canadense) similar to the VPennsylvanicum our earliest one but entire-leaved andwith a downy stemand leaf (I have not seen it inMassachusetts) Diervilla trifidaMicrostylisophioglossoides an orchidaceous plant new to uswild holly (NemopanthesCanadensis)thegreatround-leavedorchis(Platantheraorbiculata)notlonginbloomSpiranthescernuaat the topbunchberry reddeningasweascendedgreenatthebaseofthemountainredatthetopandthesmallfernWoodsiailvensisgrowingintuftsnowinfruitIhavealsoreceivedLiparisliliifoliaor

tway-bladefromthisspotHavingexploredthewondersofthemountainandtheweather being now entirely cleared upwe commenced the descentWemet the Indian puffing and panting about one third of the way up butthinkingthathemustbenearthetopandsayingthatittookhisbreathawayIthought that superstition had something to do with his fatigue Perhaps hebelievedthathewasclimbingoverthebackofatremendousmooseHesaidthathehadneverascendedKineoOnreachingthecanoewefoundthathehadcaughtalaketroutweighingaboutthreepoundsatthedepthoftwenty-fiveorthirtyfeetwhilewewereonthemountainWhenwegottothecampthecanoewastakenoutandturnedoverandaloglaidacrossittopreventitsbeingblownawayTheIndiancutsomelargelogsof dampand rottenhardwood to smoulder andkeep fire through the nightThe trout was fried for supper Our tent was of thin cotton cloth and quitesmall formingwith thegrounda triangularprismclosedat the rearendsixfeet long seven wide and four high so that we could barely sit up in themiddle It required two forked stakes a smooth ridge-pole and a dozen ormore pins to pitch it It kept off dew and wind and an ordinary rain andanswered our purposewell enoughWe reclinedwithin it till bedtime eachwithhisbaggageathisheadorelsesatabout thefirehavinghungourwetclothesonapolebeforethefireforthenightAswe sat there just before night lookingout through the duskywood theIndianheardanoisewhichhesaidwasmadebyasnakeHeimitateditatmyrequest making a low whistling notemdashpheetmdashpheetmdashtwo or three timesrepeatedsomewhatlikethepeepofthehylodesbutnotsoloudInanswertomyinquirieshesaidthathehadneverseenthemwhilemakingitbutgoingtothespothefinds thesnakeThishesaidonanotheroccasionwasasignofrainWhenIhadselectedthisplaceforourcamphehadremarkedthatthereweresnakes theremdashhesawthemBut theywontdoanyhurtIsaidOhnoheansweredjustasyousayitmakesnodifferencetomeHelayontherightsideofthetentbecauseashesaidhewaspartlydeafinone ear and he wanted to lie with his good ear up As we lay there heinquiredifIeverheardIndiansingIrepliedthatIhadnotoftenandaskedhimifhewouldnotfavoruswithasongHereadilyassentedandlyingonhis back with his blanket wrapped around him he commenced a slowsomewhatnasalyetmusicalchantinhisownlanguagewhichprobablywastaughthis tribe longagoby theCatholicmissionariesHe translated it toussentence by sentence afterwardwishing to see ifwe could remember it Itproved tobe avery simple religious exerciseorhymn theburdenofwhichwasthattherewasonlyoneGodwhoruledalltheworldThiswashammered(or sung)outvery thin so that somestanzaswell-nighmeantnothingatallmerelykeepinguptheideaHethensaidthathewouldsingusaLatinsong

butwedidnotdetectanyLatinonlyoneortwoGreekwordsinitmdashtherestmayhavebeenLatinwiththeIndianpronunciationHissingingcarriedmebacktotheperiodofthediscoveryofAmericatoSanSalvadorandtheIncaswhenEuropeansfirstencounteredthesimplefaithofthe IndianTherewas indeed abeautiful simplicityabout itnothingof thedarkandsavageonlythemildandinfantileThesentimentsofhumilityandreverencechieflywereexpressedItwasadenseanddampspruceandfirwoodinwhichwelayandexceptforourfireperfectlydarkandwhenIawokeinthenightIeitherheardanowlfromdeeper in theforestbehindusora loonfromadistanceover the lakeGettingupsome timeaftermidnight tocollect thescatteredbrands togetherwhilemycompanionsweresoundasleepIobservedpartlyinthefirewhichhad ceased to blaze a perfectly regular elliptical ring of light about fiveinchesinitsshortestdiametersixorseveninitslongerandfromoneeighthtoonequarterofaninchwideItwasfullyasbrightasthefirebutnotreddishorscarletlikeacoalbutawhiteandslumberinglightliketheglow-wormsIcouldtellitfromthefireonlybyitswhitenessIsawatoncethatitmustbephosphorescentwoodwhichIhadsooftenheardofbutneverchancedtoseePuttingmyfingeronitwithalittlehesitationIfoundthatitwasapieceofdeadmoose-wood(Acerstriatum)which theIndianhadcutoff inaslantingdirection the evening before Using my knife I discovered that the lightproceededfromthatportionofthesap-woodimmediatelyunderthebarkandthuspresentedaregularringattheendwhichindeedappearedraisedabovethe levelof thewoodandwhenIparedoff thebarkandcut into thesap itwasallaglowalongthelogIwassurprisedtofindthewoodquitehardandapparentlysoundthoughprobablydecayhadcommencedinthesapandIcutoutsomelittle triangularchipsandplacingtheminthehollowofmyhandcarriedthemintothecampwakedmycompanionandshowedthemtohimThey lit up the inside of my hand revealing the lines and wrinkles andappearingexactly likecoalsof fire raised toawhiteheatand I sawatoncehow probably the Indian jugglers had imposed on their people and ontravelerspretendingtoholdcoalsoffireintheirmouthsIalsonoticedthatpartofadecayedstumpwithinfourorfivefeetofthefirean inchwide and six inches long soft and shakingwood shonewith equalbrightnessIneglectedtoascertainwhetherourfirehadanythingtodowiththisbutthepreviousdaysrainandlong-continuedwetweatherundoubtedlyhadIwasexceedinglyinterestedbythisphenomenonandalreadyfeltpaidformyjourney It could hardly have thrilled me more if it had taken the form oflettersorofthehumanfaceIfIhadmetwiththisringoflightwhilegropingin this forest alone away from any fire I should have been still more

surprisedIlittlethoughtthattherewassuchalightshininginthedarknessofthewildernessformeThenextdaytheIndiantoldmetheirnameforthislightmdashartoosoqumdashandonmyinquiringconcerningthewill-o-the-wispandthelikephenomenahesaidthathisfolkssometimessawfirespassingalongatvariousheightsevenashighasthetreesandmakinganoiseIwaspreparedafterthistohearofthemoststartlingandunimaginedphenomenawitnessedbyhisfolkstheyareabroad at all hours and seasons in scenes so unfrequented by white menNaturemusthavemadeathousandrevelationstothemwhicharestillsecretstousI did not regret my not having seen this before since I now saw it undercircumstancessofavorableIwasinjusttheframeofmindtoseesomethingwonderful and this was a phenomenon adequate to my circumstances andexpectation and it putme on the alert to seemore like it I exulted like apagansuckledinacreedthathadneverbeenwornatallbutwasbran-newandadequatetotheoccasionIletscienceslideandrejoicedinthatlightasifithadbeenafellowcreatureIsawthatitwasexcellentandwasverygladtoknowthatitwassocheapAscientificexplanationasitiscalledwouldhavebeenaltogetheroutofplace thereThat is forpaledaylightSciencewith itsretortswouldhaveputmetosleepitwastheopportunitytobeignorantthatIimprovedItsuggestedtomethat therewassomethingtobeseenifonehadeyes Itmade a believer ofmemore than before I believed that thewoodswerenottenantlessbutchoke-fullofhonestspiritsasgoodasmyselfanydaymdashnotanemptychamber inwhichchemistrywas left toworkalonebutaninhabited housemdashand for a few moments I enjoyed fellowship with themYourso-calledwisemangoestryingtopersuadehimselfthatthereisnoentitytherebuthimselfandhistrapsbutitisagreatdealeasiertobelievethetruthItsuggestedtoothatthesameexperiencealwaysgivesbirthtothesamesortofbeliefor religionOne revelationhasbeenmade to the Indiananother tothewhitemanIhavemuchtolearnoftheIndiannothingofthemissionaryIamnotsurebutallthatwouldtemptmetoteachtheIndianmyreligionwouldbehispromisetoteachmehisLongenoughIhadheardofirrelevantthingsnowat length Iwasglad tomakeacquaintancewith the light thatdwells inrottenwoodWhereisallyourknowledgegonetoItevaporatescompletelyforithasnodepthIkeptthoselittlechipsandwetthemagainthenextnightbuttheyemittednolightSATURDAYJuly25At breakfast this Saturday morning the Indian evidently curious to knowwhatwouldbeexpectedofhimthenextdaywhetherweshouldgoalongornot asked me how I spent the Sunday when at home I told him that I

commonlysatinmychamberreadingetcintheforenoonandwenttowalkin theafternoonAtwhichheshookhisheadandsaidEr that isverbadHowdoyouspenditIaskedHesaidthathedidnoworkthathewenttochurch at Oldtown when he was at home in short he did as he had beentaughtbythewhitesThisledtoadiscussioninwhichIfoundmyselfintheminorityHestatedthathewasaProtestantandaskedmeifIwasIdidnotatfirstknowwhattosaybutIthoughtthatIcouldanswerwithtruththatIwasWhenwewerewashingthedishesinthelakemanyfishesapparentlychivincamecloseuptoustogettheparticlesofgreaseTheweatherseemedtobemoresettledthismorningandwesetoutearlyinorder to finish our voyage up the lake before the wind arose Soon afterstarting the Indian directed our attention to the Northeast Carry which wecouldplainlyseeaboutthirteenmilesdistantinthatdirectionasmeasuredonthemapthoughitiscalledmuchfartherThiscarryisarudewoodenrailroadrunningnorthandsouthabout twomilesperfectlystraight fromthe lake tothePenobscotthroughalowtractwithaclearingthreeorfourrodswidebutlowasitisitpassesovertheheightoflandthereThisopeningappearedasaclear bright or light point in the horizon resting on the edge of the lakewhosebreadthahaircouldhavecoveredataconsiderabledistancefromtheeye and of no appreciable height We should not have suspected it to bevisibleiftheIndianhadnotdrawnourattentiontoitItwasaremarkablekindoflighttosteerformdashdaylightseenthroughavistaintheforestmdashbutvisibleasfarasanordinarybeaconatnightWe crossed a deep and wide bay which makes eastward north of KineoleavinganislandonourleftandkeepinguptheeasternsideofthelakeThiswayorthatledtosomeTomheganorSocatarianstreamupwhichtheIndianhadhuntedandwhitherIlongedtogoThelastnamehoweverhadabogussoundtoomuchlikesectarianformeasifamissionaryhadtamperedwithitbutIknewthattheIndianswereveryliberalIthinkIshouldhaveinclinedtotheTomheganfirstWethencrossedanotherbroadbaywhichaswecouldnolongerobservetheshoreparticularlyaffordedampletimeforconversationTheIndiansaidthathe had got his money by hunting mostly high up theWest Branch of thePenobscot and toward theheadof theSt Johnhehadhunted there fromaboyandknewallaboutthatregionHisgamehadbeenbeaverotterblackcat(orfisher)sablemooseetcLoup-cervier(orCanadalynx)wereplentyyetinburntgroundsForfoodinthewoodsheusespartridgesducksdriedmoose-meathedgehogetcLoonstooweregoodonlybileemgoodHetoldusat some lengthhowhehadsuffered fromstarvationwhenamere ladbeingovertakenbywinterwhenhuntingwithtwogrownIndiansinthenorthernpartofMaineandobligedtoleavetheircanoeonaccountofice

Pointing into thebayhe said that itwas theway tovarious lakeswhichheknewOnlysolemnbear-hauntedmountainswith theirgreatwoodedslopeswerevisiblewhereasmanisnotwesupposesomeotherpower tobeMyimaginationpersonifiedtheslopesthemselvesasifbytheirverylengththeywouldwaylayyouandcompelyoutocampagainonthembeforenightSomeinvisiblegluttonwouldseemtodropfromthetreesandgnawattheheartofthesolitaryhunterwhothreadedthosewoodsandyetIwastemptedtowalkthereTheIndiansaidthathehadbeenalongthereseveraltimesI askedhimhowheguidedhimself in thewoods Oh said he I can tellgoodmanywaysWhen I pressed him further he answered Sometimes Ilookum side-hill and he glanced toward a high hill or mountain on theeasternshoregreatdifferencebetweenthenorthandsouthseewherethesunhas shonemost So treesmdashthe large limbs bend toward south Sometimes Ilookum locks (rocks) I asked what he saw on the rocks but he did notdescribeanythinginparticularansweringvaguelyinamysteriousordrawlingtoneBarelocksonlakeshoremdashgreatdifferencebetweennorthsoutheastwest sidemdashcan tell what the sun has shone on Suppose said I that Ishouldtakeyouinadarknightrightuphereintothemiddleofthewoodsahundredmilessetyoudownandturnyouroundquicklytwentytimescouldyou steer straight toOldtown Oh yer said he have done prettymuchsame thing I will tell you Some years ago I met an old white hunter atMillinocketverygoodhunterHesaidhecouldgoanywhereinthewoodsHewanted to hunt with me that day so we start We chase a moose all theforenoonroundandroundtillmiddleofafternoonwhenwekillhimThenIsaid tohim Nowyougostraight tocampDontgoroundandroundwherewevebeenbutgostraightHesaidIcantdothatIdontknowwhereIamWhereyouthinkcampIaskedHepointedsoThenI laughathimI taketheleadandgorightofftheotherwaycrossourtracksmanytimesstraightcamp How do you do that asked I Oh I cant tell you he repliedGreatdifferencebetweenmeandwhitemanIt appeared as if the sources of informationwere so various that he did notgiveadistinctconsciousattentiontoanyoneandsocouldnotreadilyrefertoanywhenquestionedabout itbuthefoundhiswayverymuchasananimaldoesPerhapswhat iscommonlycalled instinct in theanimal in thiscase ismerelyasharpenedandeducatedsenseOftenwhenanIndiansaysIdontknowinregardtotherouteheistotakehedoesnotmeanwhatawhitemanwouldbythosewordsforhisIndianinstinctmaytellhimstillasmuchasthemost confidentwhitemanknowsHedoesnot carry things inhis head norremember the route exactly like a white man but relies on himself at themomentNothavingexperiencedtheneedoftheothersortofknowledgealllabeledandarrangedhehasnotacquiredit

ThewhitehunterwithwhomItalkedinthestageknewsomeoftheresourcesof the Indian He said that he steered by the wind or by the limbs of thehemlocks which were largest on the south side also sometimes when heknew that therewas a lake near by firing his gun and listening to hear thedirectionanddistanceoftheechofromoveritThecoursewetookoverthislakeandothersafterwardwasrarelydirectbutasuccessionofcurvesfrompoint topointdigressingconsiderablyintoeachof thebaysand thiswasnotmerelyonaccountof thewind for the Indianlookingtowardthemiddleof the lakesaid itwashard togothereeasier tokeepneartheshorebecausehethusgotoveritbysuccessivereachesandsawbytheshorehowhegotalongThe following will suffice for a common experience in crossing lakes in acanoeAstheforenoonadvancedthewindincreasedThelastbaywhichwecrossed before reaching the desolate pier at theNortheastCarrywas twoorthreemilesover and thewindwas southwesterlyAftergoinga thirdof theway thewaveshadincreasedsoasoccasionally towashinto thecanoeandwe saw that it was worse and worse ahead At first we might have turnedabout but were not willing to It would have been of no use to follow thecourseoftheshorefornotonlythedistancewouldhavebeenmuchgreaterbutthewavesranstillhigherthereonaccountofthegreatersweepthewindhad At any rate it would have been dangerous now to alter our coursebecausethewaveswouldhavestruckusatanadvantageItwillnotdotomeetthematrightanglesforthentheywillwashinbothsidesbutyoumusttakethemquarteringSotheIndianstoodupinthecanoeandexertedallhisskillandstrengthforamileortwowhileIpaddledrightalonginordertogivehimmore steerage-wayFormore than amile hedidnot allowa singlewave tostrikethecanoeasitwouldbutturneditquicklyfromthissidetothatsothatitwouldalwaysbeonornearthecrestofawavewhenitbrokewhereallitsforcewasspentandwemerelysettleddownwithitAtlengthI jumpedoutontotheendofthepieragainstwhichthewavesweredashingviolently inorder to lighten the canoe and catch it at the landingwhichwas notmuchsheltered but just as I jumped we took in two or three gallons of water Iremarked to the Indian Youmanaged thatwell towhichhe replied VerfewmendothatGreatmanywaveswhenI lookoutforoneanothercomequickWhile the Indian went to get cedar bark etc to carry his canoe with wecooked the dinner on the shore at this end of the carry in the midst of asprinklingrainHe prepared his canoe for carrying in thiswiseHe took a cedar shingle orsplinteighteenincheslongandfourorfivewideroundedatoneendthatthecornersmightnotbeinthewayandtieditwithcedarbarkbytwoholesmade

midway near the edge on each side to the middle cross-bar of the canoeWhen the canoe was lifted upon his head bottom up this shingle with itsrounded end uppermost distributed theweight over his shoulders and headwhileabandofcedarbark tied to thecross-baroneachsideof theshinglepassedroundhisbreastandanotherlongeroneoutsideofthelastroundhisforeheadalsoahandoneachside-rail served tosteer thecanoeandkeep itfromrockingHethuscarrieditwithhisshouldersheadbreastforeheadandbothhandsasiftheupperpartofhisbodywereallonehandtoclaspandholdit If you know of a better way I should like to hear of it A cedar treefurnishedallthegearinthiscaseasithadthewoodworkofthecanoeOneofthe paddles rested on the cross-bars in the bows I took the canoe uponmyheadandfoundthatIcouldcarryitwitheasethoughthestrapswerenotfittedto my shoulders but I let him carry it not caring to establish a differentprecedentthoughhesaidthatifIwouldcarrythecanoehewouldtakealltherestofthebaggageexceptmycompanionsThisshingleremainedtiedtothecross-bar throughout the voyagewas always ready for the carries and alsoservedtoprotectthebackofonepassengerWewereobliged togoover this carry twiceour loadwas sogreatBut thecarrieswereanagreeablevarietyandweimprovedtheopportunitytogathertherareplantswhichwehadseenwhenwereturnedemptyhandedWe reached the Penobscot about four oclock and found there some StFrancisIndiansencampedonthebankinthesameplacewhereIcampedwithfourIndiansfouryearsbeforeTheyweremakingacanoeandasthendryingmoose-meatThemeatlookedverysuitabletomakeablackbrothatleastOurIndiansaiditwasnotgoodTheircampwascoveredwithsprucebarkTheyhadgotayoungmoosetakenintheriverafortnightbeforeconfinedinasortof cage of logs piled up cob-fashion seven or eight feet high It was quitetameabout four feethigh andcoveredwithmoose-fliesTherewasa largequantity of cornel (C stolonifera) red maple and also willow and aspenboughsstuckthroughbetweenthelogsonallsidesbuttendsoutandontheirleavesitwasbrowsingItlookedatfirstasifitwereinabowerratherthanapenOurIndiansaidthatheusedblacksprucerootstosewcanoeswithobtainingit from high lands or mountains The St Francis Indian thought thatwhitespruce rootsmightbebestBut the formersaid Nogoodbreakcant splitemalsothattheywerehardtogetdeepingroundbuttheblackwerenearthesurfaceonhigherlandaswellas tougherHesaidthat thewhitesprucewas subekoondark black skusk I told him I thought that I could make acanoebutheexpressedgreatdoubtofitatanyratehethoughtthatmyworkwouldnotbeneatthefirsttimeAnIndianatGreenvillehadtoldmethatthewinterbarkthatisbarktakenoffbeforethesapflowsinMaywasharderand

muchbetterthansummerbarkHaving reloaded we paddled down the Penobscot which as the Indianremarked and even I detected remembering how it looked before wasuncommonly full We soon after saw a splendid yellow lily (LiliumCanadense)bytheshorewhichIpluckedItwassixfeethighandhadtwelveflowers in twowhorls formingapyramid suchas Ihave seen inConcordWeafterwardsawmanymore thus tallalongthisstreamandalsostillmorenumerous on the East Branch and on the latter one which I thoughtapproached yet nearer to the Lilium superbum The Indian asked what wecalleditandsaidthattheloots(roots)weregoodforsoupthatistocookwithmeattothickenittakingtheplaceofflourTheygettheminthefallIdugsomeandfoundamassofbulbsprettydeep in theearth twoinches indiameterlookingandeventastingsomewhatlikerawgreencornontheearWhenwehadgoneaboutthreemilesdownthePenobscotwesawthroughthetree-tops a thunder-shower coming up in the west and we looked out acamping-place in good season about five oclock on thewest side not farbelow themouthofwhat JoeAitteon in 53calledLobsterStreamcomingfromLobsterPondOurpresentIndianhoweverdidnotadmitthisnamenoreven that of Matahumkeag which is on the map but called the lakeBeskabekukI will describe once for all the routine of camping at this season WegenerallytoldtheIndianthatwewouldstopatthefirstsuitableplacesothathemightbeonthelookoutforitHavingobservedaclearhardandflatbeachtolandonfreefrommudandfromstoneswhichwouldinjurethecanoeonewouldrunupthebanktoseeiftherewereopenandlevelspaceenoughforthecampbetweenthetreesorifitcouldbeeasilyclearedpreferringatthesametimeacoolplaceonaccountofinsectsSometimeswepaddledamileormorebefore findingone toourminds forwhere the shorewas suitable thebankwouldoftenbetoosteeporelsetoolowandgrassyandthereforemosquitoeyWe then took out the baggage and drewup the canoe sometimes turning itover on shore for safetyThe Indian cut a path to the spotwehad selectedwhichwasusuallywithintwoorthreerodsofthewaterandwecarriedupourbaggageOneperhapstakescanoebirchbarkalwaysathandanddeaddrywoodorbarkandkindlesafirefiveorsixfeetinfrontofwhereweintendtolieItmattersnotcommonlyonwhichsidethisisbecausethereislittleornowindinsodenseawoodatthatseasonandthenhegetsakettleofwaterfromthe river and takes out the pork bread coffee etc from their severalpackagesAnothermeanwhilehavingtheaxecutsdownthenearestdeadrockmapleorother dry hardwood collecting several large logs to last through the nightalso agreen stakewith anotchor fork to itwhich is slantedover the fire

perhapsrestingonarockorforkedstaketohangthekettleonandtwoforkedstakesandapoleforthetentThe third man pitches the tent cuts a dozen or more pins with his knifeusuallyofmoose-woodthecommonunderwoodtofastenitdownwithandthen collects an armful or two of fir twigs arbor-vitaelig spruce or hemlockwhicheverisathandandmakesthebedbeginningateitherendandlayingthe twigswrong side up in regular rows covering the stub ends of the lastrowfirsthoweverfillingthehollowsifthereareanywithcoarsermaterialWrangel says that his guides in Siberia first strewed a quantity of drybrushwoodonthegroundandthencedartwigsonthatCommonlybythetimethebedismadeorwithinfifteenortwentyminutesthewaterboilstheporkisfriedandsupperisreadyWeeatthissittingontheground or a stump if there is any around a large piece of birch bark for atableeachholdingadipperinonehandandapieceofship-breadorfriedporkintheotherfrequentlymakingapasswithhishandorthrustinghisheadintothesmoketoavoidthemosquitoesNext pipes are lit by thosewho smoke andveils aredonnedby thosewhohave themandwehastilyexamineanddryourplants anointour facesandhandsandgotobedmdashandmdashthemosquitoesThoughyouhavenothingtodobutseethecountrytheresrarelyanytimetospare hardly enough to examine a plant before the night or drowsiness isuponyouSuchwastheordinaryexperiencebutthiseveningwehadcampedearlieronaccountoftherainandhadmoretimeWefound thatourcampto-nightwasonanoldandnowmore thanusuallyindistinct supply road running along the riverWhat is called a road thereshowsnorutsortraceofwheelsfortheyarenotusednorindeedofrunnerssincetheyareusedonlyinthewinterwhenthesnowisseveralfeetdeepItisonlyanindistinctvistathroughthewoodwhichittakesanexperiencedeyetodetectWehadnosoonerpitchedour tent than the thunder-showerburstonusandwehastilycreptunderitdrawingourbagsafteruscurioustoseehowmuchofashelterourthincottonroofwasgoingtobeinthisexcursionThoughtheviolenceoftherainforcedafineshowerthroughtheclothbeforeitwasfairlywettedandshrunkwithwhichwewerewellbedewedwemanaged tokeepprettydryonlyaboxofmatcheshavingbeenleftoutandspoiledandbeforewe were aware of it the shower was over and only the dripping treesimprisonedusWishingtoseewhatfishestherewereintherivertherewecastourlinesoverthewetbusheson the shorebut theywere repeatedly sweptdown the swift

streaminvainSoleavingtheIndianwetookthecanoejustbeforedarkanddroppeddowntheriverafewrodstofishatthemouthofasluggishbrookonthe opposite sideWe pushed up this a rod or two where perhaps only acanoe had been before But though there were a few small fishes mostlychivin there we were soon driven off by the mosquitoes While there weheardtheIndianfirehisguntwiceinsuchrapidsuccessionthatwethoughtitmustbedouble-barreledthoughweobservedafterwardthatitwassingleHisobjectwastocleanoutanddryitaftertherainandhethenloadeditwithballbeing now on ground where he expected to meet with large game Thissuddenloudcrashingnoiseinthestillaislesoftheforestaffectedmelikeaninsulttonatureorillmannersatanyrateasifyouweretofireaguninahallor temple It was not heard far however except along the river the soundbeingrapidlyhusheduporabsorbedbythedamptreesandmossygroundTheIndianmadealittlesmotheredfireofdampleavesclosetothebackofthecamp that the smokemightdrive throughandkeepout themosquitoesbutjustbeforewefellasleepthissuddenlyblazedupandcamenearsettingfiretothetentWewereconsiderablymolestedbymosquitoesatthiscampSUNDAYJuly26The note of the white-throated sparrow a very inspiriting but almost wirysoundwas the first heard in themorning andwith this all thewoods rangThiswastheprevailingbirdinthenorthernpartofMaineTheforestgenerallywasallalivewiththematthisseasonandtheywereproportionallynumerousand musical about Bangor They evidently breed in that State Thoughcommonly unseen their simple ah te-te-te te-te-te te-te-te so sharp andpiercingwasasdistincttotheearasthepassageofasparkoffireshotintothedarkestoftheforestwouldbetotheeyeIthoughtthattheycommonlyuttereditas theyflewIhear thisnotefora fewdaysonly in thespringas theygothroughConcord and in the fall see them again going southward but thentheyaremuteWewere commonly arousedby their lively strainvery earlyWhataglorioustimetheymusthaveinthatwildernessfarfrommankindandelectiondayI told the Indian that we would go to church to Chesuncook this (Sunday)morning some fifteenmiles Itwas settledweather at lastA few swallowsflittedoverthewaterweheardMarylandyellow-throatsalongtheshorethephebenotesofthechickadeeandIbelieveredstartsandmoose-fliesoflargesizepursuedusinmidstreamTheIndianthoughtthatweshouldliebyonSundaySaidheWecomeherelookum things look all round but come Sunday lock up all that and thenMondaylookagainHespokeofanIndianofhisacquaintancewhohadbeenwithsomeministerstoKtaadnandhadtoldhimhowtheyconductedThishedescribedinalowandsolemnvoiceTheymakealongprayereverymorning

andnightandateverymealComeSundaysaidhetheystopemnogoatall that daymdashkeep stillmdashpreach all daymdashfirst one then another just likechurch Oh ver goodmen One day said he going along a river theycametothebodyofamaninthewaterdrownedgoodwhileallreadyfalltopiecesTheygorightashoremdashstoptheregonofartherthatdaymdashtheyhavemeetingtherepreachandprayjust likeSundayThentheygetpolesandliftup the body and they go back and carry the bodywith themOh they vergoodmenI judged from this account that their every campwas a camp-meeting andtheyhadmistakentheirroutemdashtheyshouldhavegonetoEasthamthat theywantedanopportunitytopreachsomewheremorethantoseeKtaadnIreadofanothersimilarpartythatseemtohavespenttheirtimetheresingingthesongsofZionIwasgladthatIdidnotgotothatmountainwithsuchslowcoachesHowever theIndianaddedplyingthepaddleall thewhile that ifwewouldgoalonghemustgowithusheourmanandhesupposethatifhenotakumpay forwhat he do Sunday then thers no harm but if he takum pay thenwrongItoldhimthathewasstricterthanwhitemenNeverthelessInoticedthathedidnotforgettoreckonintheSundaysatlastHeappearedtobeaveryreligiousmanandsaidhisprayersinaloudvoiceinIndian kneeling before the camp morning and eveningmdashsometimesscramblingupagaininhastewhenhehadforgottenthisandsayingthemwithgreatrapidityInthecourseofthedayheremarkednotveryoriginallyPoormanrememberumGodmorethanrichWe soon passed the island where I had camped four years before and Irecognized thevery spotThedeadwater amile or twobelow it the Indiancalled Beskabekukskishtuk from the lake Beskabekuk which empties inaboveThisdeadwaterhesaidwasagreatplaceformoosealwaysWesawthegrassbentwhereamoosecameout thenightbeforeandtheIndiansaidthathecouldsmelloneas farashecouldseehimbutheadded that ifheshouldseefiveorsixto-dayclosebycanoehenoshootemAccordinglyashewastheonlyoneofthepartywhohadagunorhadcomea-hunting themooseweresafeJust below this a cat owl flew heavily over the stream and he asking if Iknewwhatitwasimitatedverywellthecommonhoohoohoohoorerhooof our woodsmaking a hard guttural sound Ugh ugh ughmdashugh ughWhen we passed the Moose-horn he said that it had no name What JoeAitteonhad calledRagmuff he calledPaytaytequick and said that itmeantBurntGroundStreamWe stopped therewhere I had stopped before and Ibathed in this tributary Itwas shallowbut cold apparently too cold for theIndian who stood looking on As we were pushing away again a white-headedeagle sailedoverourheadsA reachsomemilesabovePineStream

wheretherewereseveralislandstheIndiansaidwasNonglangyisDeadwaterPine Stream he called Black River and said that its Indian name wasKarsaootukHecouldgotoCaribouLakethatwayWe carried a part of the baggage about Pine StreamFallswhile the IndianwentdowninthecanoeABangormerchanthadtoldusthattwomeninhisemployweredrowned some timeagowhilepassing these falls in abatteauandathirdclungtoarockallnightandwastakenoffinthemorningTherewere magnificent great purple fringed orchises on this carry and theneighboring shores I measured the largest canoe birch which I saw in thisjourneyneartheendofthecarryItwas14frac12feetincircumferenceattwofeetfrom thegroundbut at five feetdivided into threepartsThecanoebirchesthereaboutswerecommonlymarkedbyconspicuousdarkspiralridgeswithagroove between so that I thought at first that they had been struck bylightningbutas theIndiansaid itwasevidentlycausedby thegrainof thetreeHecutasmallwoodyknobasbigasafilbert fromthe trunkofafirapparently an old balsamvesicle filledwithwoodwhich he saidwas goodmedicineAfterwehadembarkedandgonehalfamilemycompanionrememberedthathe had left his knife andwe paddled back to get it against the strong andswift currentThis taught us the difference between going up and down thestream for while we were working our way back a quarter of a mile weshouldhavegonedownamileandahalfatleastSowelandedandwhileheand the Indianwere gone back for it Iwatched themotions of the foam akindofwhitewater-fowlneartheshorefortyorfiftyrodsbelowItalternatelyappeared and disappeared behind the rock being carried round by an eddyEventhissemblanceoflifewasinterestingonthatlonelyriverImmediatelybelowthesefallswastheChesuncookDeadwatercausedbytheflowingbackofthelakeAswepaddledslowlyoverthistheIndiantoldusastory of his hunting thereabouts and something more interesting abouthimselfItappearedthathehadrepresentedhistribeatAugustaandalsoonceatWashingtonwherehehadmetsomeWesternchiefsHehadbeenconsultedat Augusta and gave advice which he said was followed respecting theeastern boundary ofMaine as determined by highlands and streams at thetimeof thedifficultieson thatsideHewasemployedwith thesurveyorsonthe lineAlsohehadcalledonDanielWebster inBoston at the timeofhisBunkerHillorationI was surprised to hear him say that he liked to go to Boston New YorkPhiladelphiaetcetcthathewouldliketolivethereButthenasifrelentingalittlewhenhethoughtwhatapoorfigurehewouldmakethereheaddedIsuppose I live inNewYork I be poorest hunter I expectHe understoodverywellbothhissuperiorityandhisinferioritytothewhitesHecriticisedthe

people of the United States as compared with other nations but the onlydistinctideawithwhichhelaboredwasthattheywereverystrongbutlikesomeindividualstoofastHemusthavethecreditofsayingthisjustbeforethe general breaking down of railroads and banks He had a great idea ofeducation and would occasionally break out into such expressions as thisKademymdasha-cad-e-mymdashgood thingmdashI suppose they usum Fifth ReaderthereYoubeencollegeFromthisdeadwatertheoutlinesofthemountainsaboutKtaadnwerevisibleThe top ofKtaadnwas concealed by a cloud but the SouneunkMountainswerenearerandquitevisibleWesteeredacrossthenorthwestendofthelakefromwhichwe lookeddownsouth-southeast thewhole length toJoeMerryMountain seenover its extremity It is an agreeable change to cross a lakeafteryouhavebeenshutupinthewoodsnotonlyonaccountofthegreaterexpanseofwaterbutalsoofskyItisoneofthesurpriseswhichNaturehasinstore for the traveler in the forestTo lookdown in thiscaseovereighteenmilesofwaterwasliberatingandcivilizingevenNodoubttheshortdistancetowhichyoucanseeinthewoodsandthegeneraltwilightwouldatlengthreact on the inhabitants andmake them salvages The lakes also reveal themountains and give ample scope and range to our thought The very gullswhich we saw sitting on the rocks like white specks or circling aboutremindedmeof custom-houseofficersAlready therewerehalf a dozen loghutsabout thisendof the lake thoughso far froma road Iperceive that inthesewoodstheearliestsettlementsareforvariousreasonsclusteringaboutthe lakes but partly I think for the sake of the neighborhood as the oldestclearingsTheyareforestschoolsalreadyestablishedmdashgreatcentresoflightWater is a pioneer which the settler follows taking advantage of itsimprovementsThusfaronlyIhadbeenbeforeAboutnoonweturnednorthwardupabroadkindofestuaryandatitsnortheastcornerfoundtheCaucomgomocRiverandafter going about a mile from the lake reached the Umbazookskus whichcomesinontherightatapointwheretheformerrivercomingfromthewestturns short to the south Our course was up the Umbazookskus but as theIndianknewofagoodcamping-place that isacoolplacewheretherewerefew mosquitoes about half a mile farther up the Caucomgomoc we wentthither The latter river judging from the map is the longer and principalstream and therefore itsnamemustprevail below the junctionSoquicklywe changed the civilizing sky of Chesuncook for the dark wood of theCaucomgomocOnreaching theIndianscamping-groundon thesouthsidewherethebankwasaboutadozenfeethighIreadonthetrunkofafirtreeblazedbyanaxeaninscriptionincharcoalwhichhadbeenleftbyhimItwassurmountedbyadrawingofabearpaddlingacanoewhichhesaidwas thesignwhich had been used by his family alwaysThe drawing though rude

couldnotbemistaken foranythingbutabearandhedoubtedmyability tocopyitTheinscriptionranthusverbatimetliteratimIinterlinetheEnglishofhisIndianashegaveittomeJuly261853

niasosebWealoneJosephPoliselioiPolisstartsiaoltaforOldtownonkenirightawayquambiJuly151855niasosebHeaddednowbelowmdash1857July26JoPolis

This was one of his homes I saw where he had sometimes stretched hismoose-hidesontheoppositeorsunnynorthsideoftheriverwheretherewasanarrowmeadowAfter we had selected a place for our camp and kindled our fire almostexactly on the site of the Indians last camphere he looking up observedThattreedangerItwasadeadpartmorethanafootindiameterofalargecanoebirchwhichbranchedat thegroundThisbranch rising thirty feetormoreslanteddirectlyover thespotwhichwehadchosenforourbedI toldhimtotryitwithhisaxebuthecouldnotshakeitperceptiblyandthereforeseemedinclinedtodisregarditandmycompanionexpressedhiswillingnesstoruntheriskButitseemedtomethatweshouldbefoolstolieunderitforthough the lower part was firm the top for aught we knew might be justreadytofallandweshouldatanyratebeveryuneasyifthewindaroseinthe

nightItisacommonaccidentformencampinginthewoodstobekilledbyafallingtreeSothecampwasmovedtotheothersideofthefireItwasasusualadampandshaggyforest thatCaucomgomoconeand themost you knew about it was that on this side it stretched toward thesettlements and on that to still more unfrequented regions You carried somuchtopographyinyourmindalwaysmdashandsometimesitseemedtomakeaconsiderable difference whether you sat or lay nearer the settlements orfartheroffthanyourcompanionsmdashweretherearorfrontiermanofthecampButthereisreallythesamedifferencebetweenourpositionswhereverwemaybecampedandsomearenearerthefrontiersonfeather-bedsinthetownsthanothersonfirtwigsinthebackwoodsThe Indian said that the Umbazookskus being a dead stream with broadmeadowswasagoodplaceformooseandhefrequentlycamea-huntingherebeingoutalonethreeweeksormorefromOldtownHesometimesalsowenta-hunting to the Seboois Lakes taking the stage with his gun andammunition axe and blankets hard-bread and pork perhaps for a hundredmilesof thewayand jumpedoffat thewildestplaceon the roadwherehewasatonceathomeandevery rodwasa tavern-site forhimThen after ashort journeythroughthewoodshewouldbuildaspruce-barkcanoeinoneday putting but few ribs into it that itmight be light and after doing hishuntingwithitonthelakeswouldreturnwithhisfursthesamewayhehadcomeThusyouhaveanIndianavailinghimselfcunninglyoftheadvantagesof civilizationwithout losing anyof hiswoodcraft but provinghimself themoresuccessfulhunterforitThismanwasverycleverandquicktolearnanythinginhislineOurtentwasofakindnewtohimbutwhenhehadonceseenitpitcheditwassurprisinghowquicklyhewouldfindandpreparethepoleandforkedstakestopitchitwithcuttingandplacing themright the first time thoughIamsure that themajorityofwhitemenwouldhaveblunderedseveraltimesThisrivercamefromCaucomgomocLakeabouttenmilesfartherupThoughitwassluggishhere therewerefallsnotfaraboveusandwesawthefoamfromthemgobyfromtimetotimeTheIndiansaidthatCaucomgomocmeantBig-GullLake(ieherringgullIsuppose)gomocmeaninglakeHencethiswasCaucomgomoctookor the river from that lakeThiswas thePenobscotCaucomgomoctooktherewasanotherStJohnonenotfarnorthHefindstheeggsof this gull sometimes twenty together as big as hens eggs on rockyledgesonthewestsideofMillinocketRiverforinstanceandeatsthemNow I thought I would observe how he spent his SundayWhile I andmycompanionwerelookingaboutatthetreesandriverhewenttosleepIndeedheimprovedeveryopportunitytogetanapwhatevertheday

RamblingaboutthewoodsatthiscampInoticedthattheyconsistedchieflyoffirsblackspruceandsomewhiteredmaplecanoebirchandalongtheriver the hoary alder (Alnus incana) I name them in the order of theirabundanceTheViburnumnudumwasacommonshrubandofsmallerplantstherewerethedwarfcornelgreatround-leavedorchisabundantandinbloom(agreenish-whiteflowergrowingin littlecommunities)UvulariagrandiflorawhosestemtastedlikeacucumberPyrolasecundaapparentlythecommonestpyrola in those woods now out of bloomPyrola elliptica and Chiogeneshispidula TheClintonia borealis with ripe berrieswas very abundant andperfectlyathome there Its leavesdisposedcommonly in trianglesabout itsstemwere justashandsomelyformedandgreenand itsberriesasblueandglossyasifitgrewbysomebotanistsfavoritepathIcould trace theoutlinesof largebirches thathadfallen longagocollapsedand rotted and turned to soil by faint yellowish-green lines of feather-likemoss eighteen incheswide and twenty or thirty feet long crossed by othersimilarlinesIheardanight-warblerwoodthrushkingfishertweezer-birdorparti-coloredwarbler and a nighthawk I also heard and saw red squirrels and heard abullfrogTheIndiansaidthatheheardasnakeWild as it was it was hard for me to get rid of the associations of thesettlementsAnysteadyandmonotonoussoundtowhichIdidnotdistinctlyattend passed for a sound of human industry Thewaterfallswhich I heardwerenotwithouttheirdamsandmillstomyimaginationandseveraltimesIfound that I had been regarding the steady rushing sound of thewind fromover the woods beyond the rivers as that of a train of carsmdashthe cars atQuebecOurmindsanywherewhenlefttothemselvesarealwaysthusbusilydrawingconclusionsfromfalsepremisesIaskedtheIndiantomakeusasugar-bowlofbirchbarkwhichhedidusingthegreatknifewhichdangledinasheathfromhisbeltbutthebarkbrokeatthecornerswhenhebentitupandhesaiditwasnotgoodthattherewasagreatdifferenceinthisrespectbetweenthebarkofonecanoebirchandthatofanother i e one cracked more easily than another I used some thin anddelicatesheetsofthisbarkwhichhesplitandcutinmyflower-bookthinkingitwouldbegoodtoseparatethedriedspecimensfromthegreenMy companionwishing to distinguish between the black andwhite spruceaskedPolis to showhima twigof the latterwhichhedidatonce togetherwiththeblackindeedhecoulddistinguishthemaboutasfarashecouldseethembutasthetwotwigsappearedverymuchalikemycompanionaskedtheIndian to point out the difference whereupon the latter taking the twigsinstantlyremarkedashepassedhishandoverthemsuccessivelyinastrokingmanner that the white was rough (i e the needles stood up nearly

perpendicular)buttheblacksmooth(ieasifbentorcombeddown)Thiswasanobviousdifferenceboth to sightand touchHowever if I rememberrightly thiswould not serve to distinguish thewhite spruce from the light-coloredvarietyoftheblackI asked him to letme see him get some black spruce root andmake somethreadWhereuponwithoutlookingupatthetreesoverheadhebegantogrubinthegroundinstantlydistinguishingtheblacksprucerootsandcuttingoffaslenderonethreeorfourfeetlongandasbigasapipe-stemhesplittheendwith his knife and taking a half between the thumb and forefinger of eachhandrapidlyseparateditswholelengthintotwoequalsemicylindricalhalvesthen giving me another root he said You try But in my hands itimmediately ran off one side and I got only a very short piece In shortthoughitlookedveryeasyIfoundthattherewasagreatartinsplittingtheserootsThesplitisskillfullyhumoredbybendingshortwiththishandorthatandsokeptinthemiddleHethentookoffthebarkfromeachhalfpressingashort pieceof cedar bark against the convex sidewithbothhandswhilehedrewtherootupwardwithhisteethAnIndiansteetharestrongandInoticedthatheusedhisoftenwhereweshouldhaveusedahandTheyamountedtoathird handHe thus obtained in amoment a very neat tough and flexiblestringwhichhecouldtieintoaknotormakeintoafish-lineevenItissaidthat inNorwayandSweden the rootsof theNorway spruce (Abies excelsa)are used in the sameway for the same purposeHe said that youwould beobligedtogivehalfadollarforsprucerootenoughforacanoethuspreparedHehadhired thesewingofhisowncanoe thoughhemadeall therestTherootinhiscanoewasofapaleslate-colorprobablyacquiredbyexposuretotheweatherorperhapsfrombeingboiledinwaterfirstHehaddiscoveredthedaybeforethathiscanoeleakedalittleandsaidthatitwasowingtosteppingintoitviolentlywhichforcedthewaterundertheedgeofthehorizontalseamsonthesideIaskedhimwherehewouldgetpitchtomend it with for they commonly use hard pitch obtained of the whites atOldtown He said that he could make something very similar and equallygoodnotof sprucegumor the likebutofmaterialwhichwehadwithusandhewishedmetoguesswhatButIcouldnotandhewouldnot tellmethoughheshowedmeaballofitwhenmadeasbigasapeaandlikeblackpitchsayingatlastthatthereweresomethingswhichamandidnottellevenhis wife It may have been his own discovery In Arnolds expedition thepioneersusedfortheircanoetheturpentineofthepineandthescrapingsofthepork-bagBeingcurioustoseewhatkindoffishestherewereinthisdarkdeepsluggishriver Icast inmy line justbeforenightandcaughtseveral small somewhatyellowish sucker-like fishes which the Indian at once rejected saying that

theyweremichigan fish (i e soft and stinking fish) and good for nothingAlsohewouldnottouchapoutwhichIcaughtandsaidthatneitherIndiansnorwhitesthereaboutseveratethemwhichIthoughtwassingularsincetheyare esteemed inMassachusetts and he had told me that he ate hedgehogsloons etc But he said that some small silvery fishes which I calledwhitechivinwhichweresimilarinsizeandformtothefirstwerethebestfishinthePenobscotwatersandifIwouldtossthemupthebanktohimhewouldcookthemformeAftercleaningthemnotverycarefullyleavingtheheadsonhelaidthemonthecoalsandsobroiledthemReturningfromashortwalkhebroughtavineinhishandandaskedmeifIknewwhatitwassayingthatitmadethebestteaofanythinginthewoodsItwasthecreepingsnowberry(Chiogeneshispidula)whichwasquitecommonthereitsberriesjustgrownHecalleditcowosnebagosarwhichnameimpliesthat it grows where old prostrate trunks have collapsed and rotted So wedeterminedtohavesometeamadeofthisto-nightIthadaslightcheckerberryflavorandwebothagreedthatitwasreallybetterthantheblackteawhichwehadbroughtWethoughtitquiteadiscoveryandthatitmightwellbedriedand sold in the shops I for one however am not an old tea-drinker andcannotspeakwithauthoritytoothersItwouldhavebeenparticularlygoodtocarry along for a cold drink during the day the water thereabouts beinginvariably warm The Indian said that they also used for tea a certain herbwhich grew in low ground which he did not find there and ledum orLabrador teawhich I have since found and tried inConcord also hemlockleaves the last especially in thewinterwhen the other plantswere coveredwith snow and various other things but he did not approve of arbor-vitaeligwhichIsaidIhaddrunkinthosewoodsWecouldhavehadanewkindofteaeverynightJustbeforenightwesawamusquash(hedidnotsaymuskrat) theonlyonewe saw in this voyage swimming downward on the opposite side of thestreamTheIndianwishingtogetonetoeathushedussayingStopmecallemandsittingflatonthebankhebegantomakeacurioussqueakingwirysoundwithhis lipsexertinghimselfconsiderablyIwasgreatlysurprisedmdashthoughtthatIhadatlastgotintothewildernessandthathewasawildmanindeedtobetalkingtoamusquashIdidnotknowwhichofthetwowasthestrangest tome He seemed suddenly to have quite forsaken humanity andgoneover to themusquashsideThemusquashhoweverasnearas Icouldseedidnot turnaside thoughhemayhavehesitateda littleand the Indiansaidthathesawourfirebutitwasevidentthathewasinthehabitofcallingthemusquash tohimashesaidAnacquaintanceofminewhowashuntingmooseinthosewoodsamonthafterthistellsmethathisIndianinthiswayrepeatedly called themusquashwithin reachofhispaddle in themoonlightandstruckatthem

TheIndiansaidaparticularlylongprayerthisSundayeveningasiftoatoneforworkinginthemorningMONDAYJuly27HavingrapidlyloadedthecanoewhichtheIndianalwayscarefullyattendedtothatitmightbewelltrimmedandeachhavingtakenalookasusualtoseethat nothing was left we set out again descending the Caucomgomoc andturningnortheasterlyuptheUmbazookskusThisnametheIndiansaidmeantMuchMeadowRiverWe found it a verymeadowy stream and deadwaterandnowverywideonaccountoftherainsthoughhesaiditwassometimesquitenarrowThespacebetweenthewoodschieflybaremeadowwasfromfiftytotwohundredrodsinbreadthandisarareplaceformooseItremindedme of the Concord and what increased the resemblance was one oldmusquash-housealmostafloatInthewateronthemeadowsgrewsedgeswool-grassthecommonblueflagabundantlyitsflowerjustshowingitselfabovethehighwaterasifitwereabluewater-lilyandhigherinthemeadowsagreatmanyclumpsofapeculiarnarrow-leaved willow (Salix petiolaris) which is common in our rivermeadows It was the prevailing one here and the Indian said that themusquashatemuchofitandherealsogrewtheredosier(Cornusstolonifera)itslargefruitnowwhitishThoughitwasstillearlyinthemorningwesawnighthawkscirclingoverthemeadow and asusualheard thepepe (MuscicapaCooperi)which is oneoftheprevailingbirdsinthesewoodsandtherobinItwasunusual for thewoods tobe sodistant from the shore and therewasquite an echo from thembutwhen Iwas shouting inorder to awake it theIndianremindedmethatIshouldscarethemoosewhichhewaslookingoutfor and which we all wanted to see The word for echowasPockadunkquaywayleAbroadbeltofdeadlarchtreesalongthedistantedgeofthemeadowagainsttheforestoneachsideincreasedtheusualwildnessofthesceneryTheIndiancalled these juniper and said that they had been killed by the backwatercaused by the dam at the outlet of Chesuncook Lake some twenty milesdistant I plucked at the waters edge the Asclepias incarnata with quitehandsomeflowersabrighterredthanourvariety(thepulchra)ItwastheonlyformofitwhichIsawthereHavingpaddledseveralmilesuptheUmbazookskusitsuddenlycontractedtoamerebrooknarrowand swift the larches andother trees approaching thebankandleavingnoopenmeadowandwelandedtogetablacksprucepoleforpushingagainst the streamThiswas the firstoccasion foroneTheoneselectedwasquiteslendercutabouttenfeetlongmerelywhittledtoapoint

andthebarkshavedoffThestreamthoughnarrowandswiftwasstilldeepwithamuddybottomas Iprovedbydiving to itBeside theplantswhichIhavementioned I observedon thebankhere theSalix cordata and rostrataRanunculusrecurvatusandRubustrifloruswithripefruitWhilewewerethusemployedtwoIndiansinacanoehoveinsightroundthebushescomingdownstreamOurIndianknewoneofthemanoldmanandfell into conversation with him in Indian He belonged at the foot ofMooseheadTheotherwasofanothertribeTheywerereturningfromhuntingIasked theyounger if theyhadseenanymoose towhichhesaidnobut Iseeing the moose-hides sticking out from a great bundle made with theirblankets in themiddleof the canoe added Only theirhidesAshewasaforeignerhemayhavewishedtodeceivemeforitisagainstthelawforwhitemenandforeignerstokillmooseinMaineatthisseasonButperhapsheneednothavebeenalarmedforthemoose-wardensarenotveryparticularIheardquitedirectlyofonewhobeingaskedbyawhitemangoing into thewoodswhathewouldsayifhekilledamooseansweredIfyoubringmeaquarterof it I guess you wont be troubled His duty being as he said only toprevent theindiscriminateslaughterof themfor theirhides I suppose thathe would consider it an indiscriminate slaughter when a quarter was notreservedforhimselfSucharetheperquisitesofthisofficeWecontinuedalongthroughthemostextensivelarchwoodwhichIhadseenmdashtall and slender trees with fantastic branches But though this was theprevailingtreehereIdonotrememberthatwesawanyafterwardYoudonotfind straggling treesof this specieshere and there throughout thewoodbutratheralittleforestofthemThesameisthecasewiththewhiteandredpinesandsomeothertreesgreatlytotheconvenienceofthelumbererTheyareofasocialhabitgrowinginveinsclumpsgroupsorcommunitiesastheexplorerscall themdistinguishingthemfarawayfromthetopofahilloratreethewhitepinestoweringabovethesurroundingforestorelsetheyformextensive forests by themselves I should have liked to come across a largecommunityofpineswhichhadneverbeeninvadedbythelumberingarmyWesawsomefreshmoose-tracksalongtheshorebuttheIndiansaidthatthemoosewerenotdrivenoutofthewoodsbythefliesasusualatthisseasononaccountoftheabundanceofwatereverywhereThestreamwasonlyfromoneandonehalftothreerodswidequitewindingwithoccasionalsmallislandsmeadows and some very swift and shallow places When we came to anislandtheIndianneverhesitatedwhichsidetotakeasifthecurrenttoldhimwhichwastheshortestanddeepestItwasluckyforusthatthewaterwassohighWehadtowalkbutonceonthisstreamcarryingapartoftheloadataswiftandshallowreachwhilehegotupwiththecanoenotbeingobligedtotakeoutthoughhesaiditwasverystrongwaterOnceortwicewepassedthe

redwreckofabatteauwhichhadbeenstovesomespringWhilemakingthisportageIsawmanysplendidspecimensofthegreatpurplefringed orchis three feet high It is remarkable that such delicate flowersshouldhereadornthesewildernesspathsHaving resumed our seats in the canoe I felt the Indian wiping my backwhichhehadaccidentallyspatuponHesaiditwasasignthatIwasgoingtobemarriedThe Umbazookskus River is called ten miles long Having poled up thenarrowestpartsomethreeorfourmilesthenextopeningintheskywasoverUmbazookskusLakewhichwesuddenlyenteredaboutelevenoclockintheforenoon It stretches northwesterly four or fivemileswithwhat the Indiancalled the CaucomgomocMountain seen far beyond it It was an agreeablechangeThis lakewasveryshallowa longdistancefromtheshoreandIsawstone-heaps on the bottom like those in theAssabet at homeThe canoe ran intooneThe Indian thought that theyweremadebyaneel JoeAitteon in1853thoughtthattheyweremadebychubWecrossedthesoutheastendofthelaketothecarryintoMudPondUmbazookskusLakeis theheadof thePenobscot in thisdirectionandMudPond is thenearestheadof theAllegashoneof thechief sourcesof theStJohnHodgewhowentthroughthiswaytotheStLawrenceintheserviceoftheStatecallstheportagehereamileandthreequarterslongandstatesthatMud Pond has been found to be fourteen feet higher than UmbazookskusLake As the West Branch of the Penobscot at the Moosehead carry isconsideredabouttwenty-fivefeetlowerthanMooseheadLakeitappearsthatthe Penobscot in the upper part of its course runs in a broad and shallowvalley between the Kennebec and St John and lower than either of themthoughjudgingfromthemapyoumightexpectittobethehighestMudPond is abouthalfway fromUmbazookskus toChamberlainLake intowhichitemptiesandtowhichwewereboundTheIndiansaidthatthiswasthe wettest carry in the State and as the season was a very wet one weanticipated an unpleasant walk As usual he made one large bundle of thepork-keg cooking-utensils and other loose traps by tying them up in hisblanketWeshouldbeobligedtogooverthecarrytwiceandourmethodwastocarryonehalfpartwayandthengobackfortherestOurpathranclosebythedoorofaloghutinaclearingatthisendofthecarrywhich the Indianwhoaloneentered it found tobeoccupiedbyaCanadianand his family and that the man had been blind for a year He seemedpeculiarlyunfortunatetobetakenblindtherewherethereweresofeweyestoseeforhimHecouldnotevenbeledoutofthatcountrybyadogbutmustbe

takendowntherapidsaspassivelyasabarrelofflourThiswasthefirsthouseaboveChesuncookandthelastonthePenobscotwatersandwasbuiltherenodoubtbecauseitwastherouteofthelumberersinthewinterandspringAfteraslightascentfromthelakethroughthespringysoiloftheCanadiansclearing we entered on a level and very wet and rocky path through theuniversal dense evergreen forest a loosely paved gutter merely where wewent leapingfromrock to rockandfromside toside in thevainattempt tokeepoutofthewaterandmudWeconcludedthatitwasyetPenobscotwaterthoughtherewasnoflowtoitItwasonthiscarrythatthewhitehunterwhomImet in the stage as he toldme had shot two bears a fewmonths beforeTheystooddirectly in thepathanddidnot turnoutforhimTheymightbeexcusedfornot turningout thereoronly taking therightas the lawdirectsHesaidthatatthisseasonbearswerefoundonthemountainsandhillsidesinsearchofberriesandwereapttobesaucymdashthatwemightcomeacrossthemupTroutStreamandheaddedwhatIhardlycreditedthatmanyIndianssleptintheircanoesnotdaringtosleeponlandonaccountofthemHerecommenceswhatwascalled twentyyearsago thebest timber land inthe State This very spot was described as covered with the greatestabundance of pine but now this appeared to me comparatively anuncommon tree theremdashandyetyoudidnot seewhereanymorecouldhavestoodamidthedensegrowthofcedarfiretcItwasthenproposedtocutacanal from lake to lakeherebut theoutletwas finallymade farther east atTelosLakeasweshallseeTheIndianwithhiscanoesoondisappearedbeforeusbutere longhecameback and told us to take a path which turned off westward it being betterwalkingandatmysuggestionheagreedtoleaveaboughintheregularcarryatthatplacethatwemightnotpassitbymistakeThereafterhesaidweweretokeepthemainpathandheaddedYouseeemmytracksButIhadnotmuchfaiththatwecoulddistinguishhistrackssinceothershadpassedoverthecarrywithinafewdaysWeturnedoffattherightplacebutweresoonconfusedbynumerouslogging-pathscomingintotheonewewereonbywhichlumberershadbeentopickout those pines which I have mentioned However we kept what weconsidered themain path though itwas awinding one and in this at longintervals we distinguished a faint trace of a footstep This thoughcomparativelyunwornwasat firstabetterorat leastadrier road than theregularcarrywhichwehadleftItledthroughanarbor-vitaeligwildernessofthegrimmestcharacterThegreatfallenandrottingtreeshadbeencutthroughandrolled aside and their huge trunks abutted on the path on each side whileothers still lay across it two or three feet high It was impossible for us todiscerntheIndianstrailintheelasticmosswhichlikeathickcarpetcovered

everyrockandfallentreeaswellastheearthNeverthelessIdidoccasionallydetect the trackofamanandIgavemyselfsomecredit for it Icarriedmywholeloadatonceaheavyknapsackandalargeindia-rubberbagcontainingourbreadandablanketswungonapaddleinallaboutsixtypoundsbutmycompanionpreferredtomaketwojourneysbyshortstageswhileIwaitedforhimWecouldnot be sure thatwewerenot depositingour loads each timefartherofffromthetruepathAsIsatwaitingformycompanionhewouldseemtobegonealongtimeandIhadampleopportunitytomakeobservationsontheforestInowfirstbegantobeseriouslymolestedbytheblackflyaverysmallbutperfectlyformedflyofthatcoloraboutonetenthofaninchlongwhichIfirstfeltandthensawinswarmsaboutmeasIsatbyawiderandmorethanusuallydoubtfulforkinthisdark forestpathThehunters tell bloody stories about themmdashhow theysettleinaringaboutyourneckbeforeyouknowitandarewipedoffingreatnumberswithyourbloodButrememberingthatIhadawashinmyknapsackpreparedbyathoughtfulhandinBangorImadehastetoapplyittomyfaceand hands andwas glad to find it effectual as long as itwas fresh or fortwentyminutesnotonlyagainstblackfliesbutall theinsects thatmolestedusTheywouldnotalightonthepartthusdefendedItwascomposedofsweetoilandoilofturpentinewithalittleoilofspearmintandcamphorHoweverI finally concluded that the remedy was worse than the disease It was sodisagreeableandinconvenienttohaveyourfaceandhandscoveredwithsuchamixtureThree large slate-colored birds of the jay genus (Garrulus Canadensis) theCanadajaymoose-birdmeat-birdorwhatnotcameflittingsilentlyandbydegreestowardmeandhoppeddownthelimbsinquisitivelytowithinsevenor eight feet They were more clumsy and not nearly so handsome as thebluejay Fish hawks from the lake uttered their sharp whistling notes lowoverthetopoftheforestnearmeasiftheywereanxiousaboutanestthereAfterIhadsattheresometimeInoticedatthisforkinthepathatreewhichhadbeenblazedandthelettersChambLwrittenonitwithredchalkThisIknewtomeanChamberlainLakeSoIconcludedthatonthewholewewereontherightcoursethoughaswehadcomenearlytwomilesandsawnosignsofMudPondIdidharborthesuspicionthatwemightbeonadirectcoursetoChamberlainLakeleavingoutMudPondThisIfoundbymymapwouldbeaboutfivemilesnortheasterlyandIthentookthebearingbymycompassMycompanionhavingreturnedwithhisbagandalsodefendedhisfaceandhandswith the insect-washweset forwardagainThewalkingrapidlygrewworse and the path more indistinct and at length after passing through apatch of Calla palustris still abundantly in bloomwe found ourselves in amore open and regular swamp made less passable than ordinary by the

unusualwetnessoftheseasonWesankafootdeepinwaterandmudateverystep and sometimes up to our knees and the trail was almost obliteratedbeingnomorethanthatamusquashleavesinsimilarplaceswhenhepartsthefloatingsedge In fact itprobablywasamusquash trail in someplacesWeconcluded that ifMudPondwasasmuddyas theapproach to itwaswet itcertainlydeserveditsnameItwouldhavebeenamusingtobeholdthedoggedanddeliberatepaceatwhichweenteredthatswampwithoutinterchangingawordasifdeterminedtogothroughitthoughitshouldcomeuptoournecksHaving penetrated a considerable distance into this and found a tussock onwhich we could deposit our loads though there was no place to sit mycompanionwentbackfortherestofhispackIhadthoughttoobserveonthiscarrywhenwecrossedthedividinglinebetweenthePenobscotandStJohnbutasmyfeethadhardlybeenoutofwaterthewholedistanceanditwasalllevel and stagnant I began to despair of finding it I remembered hearing agood deal about the highlands dividing the waters of the Penobscot fromthoseoftheStJohnaswellastheStLawrenceatthetimeofthenortheastboundarydisputeandIobservedbymymap that the lineclaimedbyGreatBritain as the boundary prior to 1842 passed betweenUmbazookskus LakeandMudPondsothatwehadeithercrossedorwerethenonitThesethenaccordingtoherinterpretationofthetreatyof83werethehighlandswhichdivide those rivers that empty themselves into the St Lawrence from thosewhichfallintotheAtlanticOceanTrulyaninterestingspottostandonmdashifthat were itmdashthough you could not sit down there I thought that if thecommissioners themselves and theKingofHollandwith them had spent afewdaysherewiththeirpacksupontheirbackslookingforthathighlandtheywouldhavehadaninterestingtimeandperhapsitwouldhavemodifiedtheirviewsofthequestionsomewhatTheKingofHollandwouldhavebeeninhiselementSuchweremymeditationswhilemycompanionwasgonebackforhisbagItwasacedarswamp throughwhichthepeculiarnoteof thewhite-throatedsparrowrangloudandclearTheregrewtheside-saddleflowerLabradorteaKalmia glauca andwhatwas new tome the low birch (Betula pumila) alittleround-leafedshrubtwoorthreefeethighonlyWethoughttonamethisswampafterthelatterAfteralongwhilemycompanioncamebackandtheIndianwithhimWehadtaken thewrong road and the Indian had lost usHe had verywisely goneback to the Canadians camp and asked him which way we had probablygonesincehecouldbetterunderstandthewaysofwhitemenandhetoldhimcorrectlythatwehadundoubtedlytakenthesupplyroadtoChamberlainLake(slendersuppliestheywouldgetoversucharoadatthisseason)TheIndianwasgreatlysurprisedthatweshouldhavetakenwhathecalledatow(ietote or toting or supply) road instead of a carry pathmdashthat we had not

followedhistracksmdashsaiditwasstrangeandevidentlythoughtlittleofourwoodcraftHavingheldaconsultationandeatenamouthfulofbreadweconcludedthatitwouldperhapsbenearer forus twonowtokeepon toChamberlainLakeomittingMudPondthantogobackandstartanewforthelastplacethoughtheIndianhadneverbeenthroughthiswayandknewnothingaboutitInthemeanwhilehewouldgobackandfinishcarryingoverhiscanoeandbundletoMudPondcrossthatandgodownitsoutletandupChamberlainLakeandtrusttomeetustherebeforenightItwasnowalittleafternoonHesupposedthat the water in which we stood had flowed back fromMud Pond whichcouldnotbefaroffeastwardbutwasunapproachablethroughthedensecedarswampKeeping on we were ere long agreeably disappointed by reaching firmerground andwe crossed a ridgewhere the pathwasmore distinct but therewasneveranyoutlookovertheforestWhiledescendingthelastIsawmanyspecimens of the great round-leaved orchis of large size one which ImeasuredhadleavesasusualflatonthegroundnineandahalfincheslongandninewideandwastwofeethighThedarkdampwildernessisfavorableto some of these orchidaceous plants though they are too delicate forcultivationIalsosawtheswampgooseberry(Rideslacustre)withgreenfruitandinallthelowgroundwhereitwasnottoowettheRubustriflorusinfruitAtoneplaceIheardaveryclearandpiercingnotefromasmallhawklikeasingle note from a white-throated sparrow only very much louder as hedashed through the tree-tops over my head I wondered that he allowedhimself to be disturbed by our presence since it seemed as if he could noteasily findhisnest againhimself in thatwildernessWealso sawandheardseveraltimestheredsquirrelandoftenasbeforeobservedthebluishscalesofthefirconeswhichithadleftonarockorfallentreeThisaccordingtotheIndian is the only squirrel found in thosewoods except a very few stripedonesItmusthaveasolitarytimeinthatdarkevergreenforestwherethereissolittlelifeseventy-fivemilesfromaroadaswehadcomeIwonderedhowhecouldcallanyparticulartreetherehishomeandyethewouldrunupthestemofoneoutof themyriadsas if itwereanoldroad tohimHowcanahawkeverfindhimthereIfanciedthathemustbegladtoseeusthoughhedid seem to chide us One of those sombre fir and spruce woods is notcompleteunlessyouhear fromout itscavernousmossyand twiggyrecesseshisfinealarummdashhissprucevoiceliketheworkingofthesapthroughsomecrack ina treemdashtheworkingof thesprucebeerSuchan impertinent fellowwouldoccasionallytrytoalarmthewoodaboutmeOhsaidIIamwellacquaintedwithyourfamilyIknowyourcousinsinConcordverywellGuessthemails irregular in theseparts andyoud like tohear from emButmyovertureswerevainforhewouldwithdrawbyhisaerialturnpikesintoamore

distantcedar-topandspringhisrattleagainWethenenteredanotherswampatanecessarilyslowpacewherethewalkingwasworsethanevernotonlyonaccountof thewaterbut thefallentimberwhich often obliterated the indistinct trail entirely The fallen treeswere sonumerousthatforlongdistancestheroutewasthroughasuccessionofsmallyardswhereweclimbedover fencesashighasourheadsdown intowateroftenuptoourkneesandthenoveranotherfenceintoasecondyardandsoonandgoingback forhisbagmycompaniononce losthiswayandcamebackwithoutitInmanyplacesthecanoewouldhaverunifithadnotbeenforthefallentimberAgainitwouldbemoreopenbutequallywet toowetfortrees to grow and no place to sit down It was a mossy swamp which itrequired the long legs of amoose to traverse and it is very likely that wescaredsomeoftheminourtransitthoughwesawnoneItwasreadytoechothegrowlofabearthehowlofawolforthescreamofapantherbutwhenyougetfairlyintothemiddleofoneofthesegrimforestsyouaresurprisedtofindthatthelargerinhabitantsarenotathomecommonlybuthaveleftonlyapuny red squirrel to bark at you Generally speaking a howlingwildernessdoesnothowlitistheimaginationofthetravelerthatdoesthehowlingIdidhoweverseeonedeadporcupineperhapshehadsuccumbedtothedifficultiesof the way These bristly fellows are a very suitable small fruit of suchunkemptwildernessesMakingalogging-roadintheMainewoodsiscalledswampingitandtheywho do thework are called swampers I now perceived the fitness of thetermThiswasthemostperfectlyswampedofalltheroadsIeversawNaturemusthavecooperatedwitharthereHowever Isuppose theywould tellyouthatthisnametookitsoriginfromthefactthatthechiefworkofroadmakersinthosewoodsistomaketheswampspassableWecametoastreamwherethe bridgewhich had beenmade of logs tied togetherwith cedar bark hadbeenbrokenupandwegotoveraswecouldThisprobablyemptiedintoMudPondandperhapstheIndianmighthavecomeupitandtakenusinthereifhehadknownitSuchasitwasthisruinedbridgewasthechiefevidencethatwewereonapathofanykindWe then crossed another low rising ground and Iwhowore shoes had anopportunity towringoutmystockingsbutmycompanionwhousedbootshadfoundthatthiswasnotasafeexperimentforhimforhemightnotbeabletogethiswetbootsonagainHewentoverthewholegroundorwaterthreetimes for which reason our progress was very slow beside that the watersoftened our feet and to some extent unfitted them for walking As I satwaiting forhim itwouldnaturally seemanunaccountable time that hewasgone Therefore as I could see through thewoods that the sunwas gettinglowand itwasuncertainhowfar the lakemightbeeven ifwewereon the

right course and in what part of the world we should find ourselves atnightfall I proposed that I should push through with what speed I couldleavingboughstomarkmypathandfindthelakeandtheIndianifpossiblebeforenightandsendthelatterbacktocarrymycompanionsbagHavinggoneaboutamileandgotintolowgroundagainIheardanoiselikethenoteof anowlwhich I soondiscovered tobemadeby the Indian andansweringhimwesooncametogetherHehadreachedthelakeaftercrossingMudPondandrunningsomerapidsbelowitandhadcomeupaboutamileand a half on our path If he had not come back to meet us we probablyshould not have found him that night for the path branched once or twicebefore reaching this particular part of the lake So he went back for mycompanion and his bag while I kept on Having waded through anotherstreamwherethebridgeoflogshadbeenbrokenupandhalffloatedawaymdashandthiswasnotaltogetherworsethanourordinarywalkingsinceitwaslessmuddymdashwecontinuedon throughalternatemudandwater to the shoreofApmoojenegamook Lake which we reached in season for a late supperinsteadofdiningthereaswehadexpectedhavinggonewithoutourdinnerItwasat least fivemilesby thewaywehadcomeandasmycompanionhadgoneovermostofit threetimeshehadwalkedfulladozenmilesbadasitwasInthewinterwhenthewaterisfrozenandthesnowisfourfeetdeepitisnodoubtatolerablepathtoafootmanAsitwasIwouldnothavemissedthatwalkforagooddealIfyouwantanexactrecipeformakingsucharoadtakeonepartMudPondanddiluteitwithequalpartsofUmbazookskusandApmoojenegamookthensendafamilyofmusquashthroughtolocateitlookafter thegradesandculvertsandfinish it to theirmindsandletahurricanefollowtodothefencingWe had come out on a point extending into Apmoojenegamook orChamberlainLakewestoftheoutletofMudPondwheretherewasabroadgravellyandrockyshoreencumberedwithbleachedlogsandtreesWewererejoicedtoseesuchdrythingsinthatpartoftheworldButatfirstwedidnotattendtodrynesssomuchastomudandwetnessWeallthreewalkedintothelakeuptoourmiddletowashourclothesThiswasanothernoble lakecalled twelvemiles longeastandwest ifyouaddTelosLakewhichsincethedamwasbuilthasbeenconnectedwithitbydeadwateritwillbetwentyanditisapparentlyfromamileandahalftotwomileswideWewereaboutmidwayitslengthonthesouthsideWecouldseetheonlyclearing in theseparts called theChamberlainFarmwith twoorthreelogbuildingsclosetogetherontheoppositeshoresometwoandahalfmilesdistantThesmokeofourfireontheshorebroughtovertwomeninacanoefromthefarmthatbeingacommonsignalagreedonwhenonewishestocrossIttookthemabouthalfanhourtocomeoverandtheyhadtheirlabor

for their pains this time Even the English name of the lake had a wildwoodland sound reminding me of that Chamberlain who killed Paugus atLovewellsfightAfterputtingonsuchdryclothesaswehadandhangingtheotherstodryonthepolewhich the Indianarrangedover the fireweateour supper and laydownonthepebblyshorewithourfeettothefirewithoutpitchingourtentmakingathinbedofgrasstocoverthestonesHerefirstIwasmolestedbythelittlemidgecalledtheno-see-em(SimuliumnocivummdashthelatterwordisnottheLatinforno-see-em)especiallyoverthesandat thewaters edge for it is akindof sand-flyYouwouldnotobservethembutfortheirlight-coloredwingsTheyaresaidtogetunderyourclothesandproduceafeverishheatwhichIsupposewaswhatIfeltthatnightOurinsectfoesinthisexcursiontosumthemupwerefirstmosquitoesthechiefonesbutonlytroublesomeatnightorwhenwesatstillonshorebydaysecondblackflies(Simuliummolestum)whichmolestedusmoreorlessonthecarriesbydayasIhavebeforedescribedandsometimesinnarrowerpartsofthestreamHarrismistakeswhenhesaysthattheyarenotseenafterJuneThirdmoose-fliesThebigonesPolissaidwerecalledBososquasis It isastout brown fly much like a horse-fly about eleven sixteenths of an inchlong commonly rusty-coloredbeneathwithunspottedwingsThey canbitesmartlyaccordingtoPolisbutareeasilyavoidedorkilledFourththeno-see-ems above mentioned Of all these the mosquitoes are the only ones thattroubledmeseriouslybutasIwasprovidedwithawashandaveiltheyhavenotmadeanydeepimpressionTheIndianwouldnotuseourwashtoprotecthisfaceandhandsforfearthatitwouldhurthisskinnorhadheanyveilhethereforesufferedfrominsectsnow and throughout this journey more than either of us I think that hesufferedmorethanIdidwhenneitherofuswasprotectedHeregularlytieduphisfaceinhishandkerchiefandburieditinhisblanketandhenowfinallylaydownonthesandbetweenusandthefireforthesakeofthesmokewhichhetriedtomakeenterhisblanketabouthisfaceandforthesamepurposehelithispipeandbreathedthesmokeintohisblanketAswelaythusontheshorewithnothingbetweenusandthestarsIinquiredwhat stars hewas acquaintedwith or had names for Theywere theGreatBearwhichhecalledbythisnametheSevenStarswhichhehadnoEnglishnameforthemorningstarandthenorthstarInthemiddleofthenightasindeedeachtimethatwelayontheshoreofalakeweheardthevoiceoftheloonloudanddistinctfromfaroverthelakeItisaverywildsoundquiteinkeepingwiththeplaceandthecircumstancesofthetravelerandveryunlikethevoiceofabirdIcouldlieawakeforhours

listeningtoititissothrillingWhencampinginsuchawildernessasthisyouarepreparedtohearsoundsfromsomeofitsinhabitantswhichwillgivevoiceto its wildness Some idea of bears wolves or panthers runs in your headnaturallyandwhenthisnoteisfirstheardveryfaroffatmidnightasyouliewithyour ear to thegroundmdashthe forest beingperfectly still aboutyou youtakeitforgrantedthat it is thevoiceofawolforsomeotherwildbeastforonlythelastpartisheardwhenatadistancemdashyouconcludethatitisapackofwolvesbayingthemoonorperchancecanteringafteramooseStrangeasitmayseemthemooingofacowonamountain-sidecomesnearesttomyidea of the voice of a bear and this birds note resembled that It was theunfailingandcharacteristicsoundofthoselakesWewerenotsoluckyastohear wolves howl though that is an occasional serenade Some friends ofminewho twoyearsagowentup theCaucomgomocRiverwereserenadedbywolveswhilemoose-huntingbymoonlight Itwasasuddenburstas ifahundred demons had broke loosemdasha startling sound enoughwhich if anywouldmake your hair stand on end and all was still again It lasted but amoment andyoudhave thought therewere twentyof themwhenprobablytherewereonly twoor threeTheyheard it twiceonly and they said that itgaveexpressiontothewildernesswhichitlackedbeforeIheardofsomemenwhowhileskinningamooselatelyinthosewoodsweredrivenofffromthecarcassbyapackofwolveswhichateitupThisof the loonmdashIdonotmean its laughbut its looningmdashisa long-drawncallasitweresometimessingularlyhumantomyearmdashhoo-hoo-ooooolikethehallooingofamanonaveryhighkeyhaving thrownhisvoice intohisheadIhaveheardasoundexactlylikeitwhenbreathingheavilythroughmyownnostrilshalfawakeattenatnightsuggestingmyaffinitytotheloonasif its languagewerebutadialectofmyownafterallFormerlywhenlyingawake at midnight in those woods I had listened to hear some words orsyllablesoftheirlanguagebutitchancedthatIlistenedinvainuntilIheardthe cry of the loon I have heard it occasionally on the ponds ofmy nativetownbutthereitswildnessisnotenhancedbythesurroundingsceneryIwasawakenedatmidnightbysomeheavylow-flyingbirdprobablyaloonflappingbycloseovermyheadalongtheshoreSoturningtheothersideofmyhalf-cladbodytothefireIsoughtslumberagainTUESDAYJuly28Whenwe awokewe found a heavy dewon our blankets I lay awake veryearly and listened to theclear shrill ah te te te te teof thewhite-throatedsparrow repeated at short intervals without the least variation for half anhourasifitcouldnotenoughexpressitshappinessWhethermycompanionshearditornotIknownotbutitwasakindofmatinstomeandtheeventofthatforenoon

ItwasapleasantsunriseandwehadaviewofthemountainsinthesoutheastKtaadnappearedaboutsoutheastbysouthAdouble-toppedmountainaboutsoutheastbyeastandanotherportionofthesameeast-southeastThelasttheIndiancalledNerlumskeechticookandsaidthatitwasattheheadoftheEastBranchandweshouldpassnearitonourreturnthatwayWe did somemore washing in the lake thismorning andwith our clotheshungaboutonthedeadtreesandrockstheshorelookedlikewashing-dayathomeThe Indian taking thehint borrowed the soap andwalking into thelakewashedhisonlycottonshirtonhispersonthenputonhispantsandletitdryonhimIobservedthatheworeacottonshirtoriginallywhiteagreenishflanneloneover it but no waistcoat flannel drawers and strong linen or duck pantswhich also had been white blue woolen stockings cowhide boots and aKossuth hatHe carried no change of clothing but putting on a stout thickjacketwhichhelaidasideinthecanoeandseizingafull-sizedaxehisgunand ammunition and a blanket which would do for a sail or knapsack ifwanted and strapping on his belt which contained a large sheath-knife hewalked off at once ready to be gone all summer This looked veryindependent a few simple and effective tools and no india-rubber clothingHewasalways the first ready to start in themorning and if it hadnotheldsome of our property would not have been obliged to roll up his blanketInsteadofcarryingalargebundleofhisownextraclothingetchebroughtbackthegreatcoatsofmoosetiedupinhisblanketIfoundthathisoutfitwasthe result of a long experience and in themain hardly to be improved onunlessbywashingandanextrashirtWantingabuttonherehewalkedofftoaplacewheresomeIndianshadrecentlyencampedandsearchedforonebutIbelieveinvainHaving softened our stiffened boots and shoes with the pork fat the usualdispositionofwhatwasleftatbreakfastwecrossedthelakeearlysteeringinadiagonaldirectionnortheasterlyabout fourmiles to theoutletwhichwasnot to be discovered till we were close to it The IndiannameApmoojenegamookmeanslakethatiscrossedbecausetheusualcourseliesacrossandnotalongitThisisthelargestoftheAllegashlakesandwasthe first St John water that we floated on It is shaped in the main likeChesuncookTherearenomountainsorhighhillsverynearitAtBangorwehadbeentoldofatownshipmanymilesfarthernorthwestitwasindicatedtousascontainingthehighestlandthereaboutswherebyclimbingaparticulartreeintheforestwecouldgetageneralideaofthecountryIhavenodoubtthatthelastwasgoodadvicebutwedidnotgothereWedidnotintendtogofardowntheAllegashbutmerelytogetaviewofthegreatlakeswhichareitssource and then return this way to the East Branch of the Penobscot The

waternowbygoodrightsflowednorthwardifitcouldbesaidtoflowatallAfterreachingthemiddleofthelakewefoundthewavesasusualprettyhighand the Indian warnedmy companion who was nodding that hemust notallowhimselftofallasleepinthecanoelestheshouldupsetusaddingthatwhenIndianswanttosleepinacanoetheyliedownstraightonthebottomButinthiscrowdedonethatwasimpossibleHoweverhesaidthathewouldnudgehimifhesawhimnoddingAbeltofdeadtreesstoodallaroundthelakesomefaroutinthewaterwithothers prostrate behind them and they made the shore for the most partalmostinaccessibleThisistheeffectofthedamattheoutletThusthenaturalsandyorrockyshorewithitsgreenfringewasconcealedanddestroyedWecoasted westward along the north side searching for the outlet about onequarterofamiledistantfromthissavage-lookingshoreonwhichthewaveswerebreakingviolentlyknowingthat itmighteasilybeconcealedamid thisrubbishorby theoverlappingof theshore It is remarkablehow little theseimportant gates to a lake are blazoned There is no triumphal arch over themodest inletoroutletbutat someundistinguishedpoint it trickles inoroutthroughtheuninterruptedforestalmostasthroughaspongeWereachedtheoutletinaboutanhourandcarriedoverthedamtherewhichisquiteasolidstructureandaboutonequarterofamilefarther therewasaseconddamThereaderwillperceivethattheresultofthisparticulardammingaboutChamberlainLake is that thehead-watersof theStJohnaremade toflow by Bangor They have thus dammed all the larger lakes raising theirbroad surfaces many feetMoosehead for instance some forty miles longwith its steamer on it thus turning the forces of nature against herself thattheymightfloattheirspoilsoutofthecountryTheyrapidlyrunoutoftheseimmenseforestsallthefinerandmoreaccessiblepinetimberandthenleavethebearstowatchthedecayingdamsnotclearingnorcultivatingthelandnormakingroadsnorbuildinghousesbutleavingitawildernessastheyfounditInmanypartsonlythesedamsremainlikedesertedbeaver-damsThinkhowmuch land theyhave flowedwithoutaskingNatures leaveWhen theStatewishes toendowanacademyoruniversity itgrants it a tractof forest landonesawrepresentsanacademyagangauniversityThewilderness experiences a sudden rise of all her streams and lakes Shefeels ten thousand vermin gnawing at the base of her noblest trees Manycombiningdrag themoff jarringover therootsof thesurvivorsand tumblethemintotheneareststreamtillthefairesthavingfallentheyscamperofftoransacksomenewwildernessandallisstillagainItisaswhenamigratingarmyofmicegirdlesaforestofpinesThechopperfellstreesfromthesamemotivethatthemousegnawsthemmdashtogethislivingYoutellmethathehasamoreinterestingfamilythanthemouseThatisasithappensHespeaksofa

berth of timber a good place for him to get into just as a wormmightWhenthechopperwouldpraiseapinehewillcommonlytellyouthattheonehecutwassobigthatayokeofoxenstoodonitsstumpasifthatwerewhatthepinehadgrownfortobecomethefootstoolofoxenInmymindseyeIcan see these unwieldy tame deer with a yoke binding them together andbrazen-tippedhornsbetrayingtheirservitudetakingtheirstandonthestumpof each giant pine in succession throughout this whole forest and chewingtheircudthereuntilitisnothingbutanox-pastureandrunoutatthatAsifitwere good for the oxen and some terebinthine or other medicinal qualityascendedintotheirnostrilsOristheirelevatedpositionintendedmerelyasasymbolofthefactthatthepastoralcomesnextinordertothesylvanorhunterlifeThe character of the loggers admiration is betrayed by his very mode ofexpressingit Ifhetoldall thatwasinhismindhewouldsay itwassobigthat I cut it down and then a yoke of oxen could stand on its stump Headmires the log thecarcassorcorpsemorethanthe treeWhymydearsirthetreemighthavestoodonitsownstumpandagreatdealmorecomfortablyand firmly than a yokeof oxen can if youhadnot cut it downWhat righthaveyoutocelebratethevirtuesofthemanyoumurderedTheAnglo-AmericancanindeedcutdownandgrubupallthiswavingforestandmakeastumpspeechandvoteforBuchananonitsruinsbuthecannotconverse with the spirit of the tree he fells he cannot read the poetry andmythology which retire as he advances He ignorantly erases mythologicaltablets in order to print his handbills and town-meeting warrants on themBefore he has learned his a b c in the beautiful but mystic lore of thewildernesswhichSpenserandDantehadjustbeguntoreadhecutsitdowncoinsapine-tree shilling (as if to signify thepinesvalue tohim)putsupadeestrictschoolhouseandintroducesWebstersspelling-bookBelowthelastdamtheriverbeingswiftandshallowthoughbroadenoughwetwowalkedabouthalfamiletolightenthecanoeImadeitaruletocarrymyknapsackwhenIwalkedandalsotokeepittiedtoacrossbarwheninthecanoethatitmightbefoundwiththecanoeifweshouldupsetIheardthedog-daylocusthereandafterwardonthecarriesasoundwhichIhad associated only with more open if not settled countries The area forlocustsmustbesmallintheMainewoodsWewerenowfairlyontheAllegashRiverwhichnameourIndiansaidmeanthemlockbarkThesewatersflownorthwardaboutonehundredmilesatfirstvery feebly then southeasterly two hundred and fifty more to the Bay ofFundyAfterperhapstwomilesofriverweenteredHeronLakecalledonthemapPongokwahemscaringupfortyorfiftyyoungshecorwayssheldrakesattheentrancewhichranoverthewaterwithgreatrapidityasusual inalong

lineThiswasthefourthgreatlakelyingnorthwestandsoutheastlikeChesuncookandmostofthelonglakesinthatneighborhoodandjudgingfromthemapitis about tenmiles longWehadentered it on the southwest side and sawadarkmountain northeast over the lake not very far off nor highwhich theIndian saidwas called PeakedMountain and used by explorers to look fortimberfromTherewasalsosomeotherhigh landmoreeasterlyTheshoreswere in the same ragged and unsightly condition encumbered with deadtimberbothfallenandstandingasinthelast lakeowingtothedamontheAllegashbelowSomelowpointsorislandswerealmostdrownedIsawsomethingwhiteamileoffonthewaterwhichturnedouttobeagreatgullonarockinthemiddlewhichtheIndianwouldhavebeengladtokillandeatbut it flewaway longbeforewewerenearandalsoa flockof summerducks thatwereabout therockwith it Iaskinghimaboutheronssince thiswasHeronLakehesaidthathefoundtheblueheronsnestsinthehardwoodtrees I thought that I sawa light-coloredobjectmovealong theoppositeornorthernshorefourorfivemilesdistantHedidnotknowwhat itcouldbeunlessitwereamoosethoughhehadneverseenawhiteonebuthesaidthathecoulddistinguishamooseanywhereonshoreclearacrossthelakeRoundingapointwestoodacrossabayforamileandahalfor twomilestoward a large island three or four miles down the lake We met withephemeraelig(shadfly)midwayaboutamilefromtheshoreandtheyevidentlyflyoverthewholelakeOnMooseheadIhadseenalargedevils-needlehalfamilefromtheshorecomingfromthemiddleofthelakewhereitwasthreeorfourmileswideat least It hadprobablycrossedBut at last of courseyoucometolakessolargethataninsectcannotflyacrossthemandthisperhapswillservetodistinguishalargelakefromasmalloneWelandedonthesoutheastsideoftheislandwhichwasratherelevatedanddenselywoodedwitharockyshoreinseasonforanearlydinnerSomebodyhadcampedtherenotlongbeforeandlefttheframeonwhichtheystretchedamoose-hidewhichourIndiancriticisedseverelythinkingitshowedbutlittlewoodcraftHerewereplentyoftheshellsofcrayfishorfresh-waterlobsterswhichhadbeenwashedashoresuchashavegivenanametosomepondsandstreamsTheyarecommonlyfourorfiveincheslongTheIndianproceededatoncetocutacanoebirchslanteditupagainstanothertreeontheshoretyingitwithawitheandlaydowntosleepinitsshadeWhen we were on the Caucomgomoc he recommended to us a new wayhome theveryonewhichwehad first thoughtofby theSt JohnHeevensaidthatitwaseasierandwouldtakebutlittlemoretimethantheotherbytheEastBranchofthePenobscotthoughverymuchfartherroundandtakingthemapheshowedwhereweshouldbeeachnightforhewasfamiliarwith

therouteAccordingtohiscalculationweshouldreachtheFrenchsettlementsthenextnightafterthisbykeepingnorthwarddowntheAllegashandwhenwegotintothemainStJohnthebankswouldbemoreorlesssettledallthewayasifthatwerearecommendationTherewouldbebutoneortwofallswithshortcarrying-placesandweshouldgodownthestreamveryfastevenahundredmilesadayifthewindallowedandheindicatedwhereweshouldcarryoverintoEelRivertosaveabendbelowWoodstockinNewBrunswickandsointotheSchoodicLakeandthencetotheMattawamkeagItwouldbeaboutthreehundredandsixtymilestoBangorthiswaythoughonlyaboutonehundredandsixtybytheotherbutintheformercaseweshouldexploretheSt John from its source through two thirds of its course as well as theSchoodicLake andMattawamkeagmdashandwewere again tempted to go thatwayIfearedhoweverthatthebanksoftheStJohnweretoomuchsettledWhenIaskedhimwhichcoursewouldtakeusthroughthewildestcountryhesaidtheroutebytheEastBranchPartlyfromthisconsiderationasalsofromits shortness we resolved to adhere to the latter route and perhaps ascendKtaadn on the wayWemade this island the limit of our excursion in thisdirectionWehadnowseenthelargestoftheAllegashlakesThenextdamwasaboutfifteenmilesfarthernorthdowntheAllegashanditwasdeadwatersofarWehadbeentoldinBangorofamanwholivedaloneasortofhermitatthatdamto takecareof itwhospenthis timetossingabulletfromonehandtotheotherforwantofemploymentmdashasifwemightwanttocallonhimThissort of tit-for-tat intercourse between his two hands bandying to and fro aleadensubjectseemstohavebeenhissymbolforsocietyThis island according to themap was about a hundred and tenmiles in astraight linenorth-northwest fromBangor and about ninety-ninemiles east-southeastfromQuebecTherewasanotherislandvisibletowardthenorthendof the lakewith an elevated clearingon it butwe learned afterward that itwasnotinhabitedhadonlybeenusedasapastureforcattlewhichsummeredinthesewoodsthoughourinformantsaidthattherewasahutonthemainlandnear theoutletof thelakeThisunnaturallysmooth-shavensquarishspot inthe midst of the otherwise uninterrupted forest only reminded us howuninhabited the countrywasYouwould sooner expect tomeetwith a bearthananoxinsuchaclearingAtanyrateitmusthavebeenasurprisetothebearswhentheycameacrossitSuchseenfarornearyouknowatoncetobemansworkforNatureneverdoesitInordertoletinthelighttotheearthasonalakeheclearsofftheforestonthehillsidesandplainsandsprinklesfinegrassseedlikeanenchanterandsocarpetstheearthwithafirmswardPolishadevidentlymorecuriosityrespectingthefewsettlersinthosewoodsthan we If nothing was said he took it for granted that we wanted to go

straighttothenextlog-hutHavingobservedthatwecamebytheloghutsatChesuncook and the blind Canadians at the Mud Pond carry withoutstopping to communicate with the inhabitants he took occasion now tosuggestthattheusualwaywaswhenyoucamenearahousetogotoitandtell the inhabitantswhatyouhad seenorheard and then they tellyouwhattheyhadseenbutwelaughedandsaidthatwehadhadenoughofhousesforthepresentandhadcomeherepartlytoavoidthemIn the meanwhile the wind increasing blew down the Indians birch andcreatedsuchaseathatwefoundourselvesprisonersontheislandthenearestshorewhichwas thewesternbeingperhapsamiledistantandwetookthecanoe out to prevent its drifting awayWe did not know but we should becompelled to spend the rest of the day and the night thereAt any rate theIndianwent to sleep again in the shade of his birchmy companion busiedhimselfdryinghisplantsandIrambledalongtheshorewestwardwhichwasquite stony andobstructedwith fallen bleachedordrifted trees for fourorfive rods inwidth I foundgrowingon thisbroad rockyandgravelly shorethe Salix rostrata discolor and lucidaRanunculus recurvatus PotentillaNorvegica Scutellaria laterifloraEupatoriumpurpureumAsterTradescantiMentha Canadensis Epilobium angustifolium (abundant) Lycopus sinuatusSolidago lanceolata Spiraeliga salicifolia Antennaria margaraticea PrunellaRumex Acetosella raspberries wool-grass Onoclea etc The nearest treeswere Betula papyracea and excelsa and Populus tremuloides I give thesenamesbecauseitwasmyfarthestnorthernpointOurIndiansaidthathewasadoctorandcouldtellmesomemedicinaluseforeveryplantIcouldshowhimIimmediatelytriedhimHesaidthattheinnerbarkoftheaspen(Populustremuloides)wasgoodforsoreeyesandsowithvarious other plants proving himself as good as hiswordAccording to hisaccounthehadacquiredsuchknowledgeinhisyouthfromawiseoldIndianwith whom he associated and he lamented that the present generation ofIndianshadlostagreatdealHesaidthatthecaribouwasaverygreatrunnerthattherewasnoneaboutthislakenowthoughthereusedtobemanyandpointingtothebeltofdeadtreescausedbythedamsheaddedNolikumstumpmdashwhenheseesthathescaredPointing southeasterlyover the lakeanddistant forest heobserved MegoOldtowninthreedaysIaskedhowhewouldgetovertheswampsandfallentreesOhsaidheinwinterallcoveredgoanywhereonsnowshoesrightacross lakesWhen I askedhowhewenthe said First I goKtaadnwestsidethenIgoMillinocketthenPamadumcookthenNicketowthenLincolnthen Oldtown or else he went a shorter way by the Piscataquis What awilderness walk for a man to take alone None of your half-mile swamps

noneofyourmile-widewoodsmerelyasontheskirtsofourtownswithouthotelsonlyadarkmountainoralakeforguide-boardandstationovergroundmuchofitimpassableinsummerIt remindedme of PrometheusBoundHerewas traveling of the old heroickindovertheunalteredfaceofnatureFromtheAllegashorHemlockRiverand Pongoquahem Lake across great Apmoojenegamook and leaving theNerlumskeechticookMountain on his left he takes hisway under the bear-haunted slopes of Souneunk and Ktaadn Mountains to Pamadumcook andMillinocketsinlandseas(whereoftengulls-eggsmayincreasehisstore)andsoontotheforksoftheNicketow(niasosebwealoneJosephseeingwhatour folks see) everpushing theboughsof the fir and spruceasidewithhisloadoffurscontendingdayandnightnightanddaywiththeshaggydemonvegetationtravelingthroughthemossygraveyardoftreesOrhecouldgobythat rough toothof theseaKineogreatsourceofarrowsandofspears tothe ancientswhenweapons of stonewere used Seeing and hearingmoosecaribou bears porcupines lynxes wolves and panthers Places where hemight live and die and never hear of theUnited Stateswhichmake such anoise in the worldmdashnever hear of America so called from the name of aEuropeangentlemanThereisalumberersroadcalledtheEagleLakeroadfromtheSebooistotheeast side of this lake It may seem strange that any road through such awildernessshouldbepassableeveninwinterwhenthesnowisthreeorfourfeet deep but at that season wherever lumbering operations are activelycarriedonteamsarecontinuallypassingonthesingletrackanditbecomesassmoothalmostasarailwayIamtoldthatintheAroostookcountrythesledsarerequiredbylawtobeofonewidth(fourfeet)andsleighsmustbealteredtofitthetracksothatonerunnermaygoinonerutandtheotherfollowthehorseYetitisverybadturningoutWehadforsome timeseena thunder-showercomingupfromthewestoverthewoods of the island and heard themuttering of the thunder thoughwewere in doubt whether it would reach us but now the darkness rapidlyincreasingandafreshbreezerustlingtheforestwehastilyputuptheplantswhich we had been drying and with one consent made a rush for the tentmaterialandsetaboutpitchingitAplacewasselectedandstakesandpinscutin the shortest possible time andwewerepinning it down lest it shouldbeblownawaywhenthestormsuddenlyburstoverusAswe layhuddled togetherunder the tentwhich leakedconsiderablyaboutthe sideswith our baggage at our feetwe listened to someof thegrandestthunderwhichIeverheardmdashrapidpealsroundandplumpbangbangbangin succession like artillery from some fortress in the sky and the lightningwasproportionally brilliantThe Indian said Itmust be goodpowderAll

for thebenefit of themoose andus echoing far over the concealed lakes Ithought it must be a place which the thunder loved where the lightningpracticedtokeepitshandinanditwoulddonoharmtoshatterafewpinesWhat had become of the ephemeraelig and devils-needles then Were theyprudentenoughtoseekharborbeforethestormPerhapstheirmotionsmightguidethevoyageurLookingoutIperceivedthattheviolentshowerfallingonthelakehadalmostinstantaneously flattened the wavesmdashthe commander of that fortress hadsmootheditforussomdashanditclearingoffweresolvedtostartimmediatelybeforethewindraisedthemagainGoingoutsideIsaidthatIsawcloudsstillinthesouthwestandheardthunderthereTheIndianasked if the thunderwentlound(round)saying that if itdid we should have more rain I thought that it did We embarkednevertheless andpaddled rapidlyback toward thedamsThewhite-throatedsparrowsontheshorewereaboutsingingAhte-e-ete-e-eteorelseahte-e-ete-e-ete-e-ete-e-eAttheoutletofChamberlainLakewewereovertakenbyanothergustyrain-stormwhichcompelledus to takeshelter theIndianunderhiscanoeonthebankandweranundertheedgeofthedamHoweverweweremorescaredthanwetFrommycovertIcouldseetheIndianpeepingoutfrombeneathhiscanoetoseewhathadbecomeoftherainWhenwehadtakenourrespectiveplaces thus once or twice the rain not coming down in earnest wecommencedramblingabout theneighborhood for thewindhadby this timeraised suchwaveson the lake thatwecouldnot stir andwe feared thatweshouldbeobligedtocampthereWegotanearlysupperonthedamandtriedforfishtherewhilewaitingforthetumulttosubsideThefisheswerenotonlyfewbutsmallandworthlessandtheIndiandeclaredthattherewerenogoodfishesintheStJohnswatersthatwemustwaittillwegottothePenobscotwatersAtlengthjustbeforesunsetwesetoutagainItwasawildeveningwhenwecoastedupthenorthsideofthisApmoojenegamookLakeOnethunder-stormwas justoverand thewaveswhich ithad raisedstill runningwithviolenceandanotherstormwasnowseencomingupinthesouthwestfaroverthelakebutitmightbeworseinthemorningandwewishedtogetasfaraspossibleonourwayup the lakewhilewemight Itblowedhardagainst thenorthernshoreaboutaneighthofamiledistantonourleftandtherewasjustasmuchsea as our shallowcanoewouldbearwithout our takingunusual careThatwhichwekeptoffandtowardwhichthewavesweredrivingwasasdrearyandharborlessashoreasyoucanconceiveForhalfadozenrodsinwidthitwasaperfectmazeofsubmergedtreesalldeadandbareandbleachingsomestandinghalftheiroriginalheightothersprostrateandcriss-acrossaboveor

beneath the surface andmingledwith themwere loose trees and limbs andstumpsbeating about Imagine thewharvesof the largest city in theworlddecayedandtheearthandplankingwashedawayleavingthespilesstandingin looseorderbutoftenof twice theordinaryheight andmingledwithandbeating against them the wreck of ten thousand navies all their spars andtimbers while there rises from the waters edge the densest and grimmestwildernessreadytosupplymorematerialwhentheformerfailsandyoumaygetafaintideaofthatcoastWecouldnothavelandedifwewouldwithoutthegreatestdangerofbeingswampedsoblowasitmightwemustdependoncoasting by it It was twilight too and that stormy cloud was advancingrapidlyinourrearItwasapleasantexcitementyetweweregladtoreachatlengthinthedusktheclearedshoreoftheChamberlainFarmWelandedonalowandthinlywoodedpointthereandwhilemycompanionswerepitchingthetentIranuptothehousetogetsomesugaroursixpoundsbeing gonemdashit was nowonder theywere for Polis had a sweet tooth HewouldfirstfillhisdippernearlyathirdfullofsugarandthenaddthecoffeetoitHerewasaclearingextendingback from the lake toahilltopwithsomedark-colored log buildings and a storehouse in it and half a dozen menstandinginfrontoftheprincipalhutgreedyfornewsAmongthemwasthemanwho tended the dam on theAllegash and tossed the bulletHe havingchargeof thedams and learning thatweweregoing toWebsterStream thenextdaytoldmethatsomeoftheirmenwhowerehayingatTelosLakehadshutthedamatthecanalthereinordertocatchtroutandifwewantedmorewatertotakeusthroughthecanalwemightraisethegateforhewouldliketohaveitraisedTheChamberlainFarmisnodoubtacheerfulopeninginthewoods but such was the lateness of the hour that it has left but a duskyimpressiononmymindAsIhavesaidtheinfluxoflightmerelyiscivilizingyetIfanciedthattheywalkedaboutonSundaysintheirclearingsomewhatasinaprison-yardThey were unwilling to spare more than four pounds of brown sugarmdashunlockingthestorehousetogetitmdashsincetheyonlykeptalittleforsuchcasesas thisand theycharged twentycentsapound for itwhichcertainly itwasworthtogetitupthereWhen I returned to the shore itwasquitedarkbutwehada rousing fire towarmanddryusbyandasnugapartmentbehinditTheIndianwentuptothehouse to inquireafterabrotherwhohadbeenabsenthuntingayearor twoandwhile another showerwasbeginning I gropedabout cutting spruceandarbor-vitaelig twigs for a bed I preferred the arbor-vitaelig on account of itsfragranceandspreaditparticularlythickabouttheshouldersItisremarkablewithwhatpuresatisfactionthetravelerinthesewoodswillreachhiscamping-groundontheeveofatempestuousnightlikethisasifhehadgottohisinn

androllinghimselfinhisblanketstretchhimselfonhissix-feet-by-twobedofdrippingfirtwigswithathinsheetofcottonforroofsnugasameadow-mouseinitsnestInvariablyourbestnightswerethosewhenitrainedforthenwewerenottroubledwithmosquitoesYousooncometodisregardrainonsuchexcursionsatleastinthesummeritissoeasytodryyourselfsupposingadrychangeofclothingisnottobehadYoucanmuchsoonerdryyoubysucha fireasyoucanmake in thewoodsthaninanybodyskitchenthefireplaceissomuchlargerandwoodsomuchmore abundant A shed-shaped tent will catch and reflect the heat like aYankeebakerandyoumaybedryingwhileyouaresleepingSomewhohaveleakyroofsinthetownsmayhavebeenkeptawakebutweweresoonlulledasleepbyasteadysoakingrainwhichlastedallnightTo-nighttherainnotcomingatoncewithviolencethetwigsweresoondriedbythereflectedheatWEDNESDAYJuly29WhenweawokeithaddonerainingthoughitwasstillcloudyThefirewasputoutandtheIndiansbootswhichstoodundertheeavesofthetentwerehalffullofwaterHewasmuchmoreimprovidentinsuchrespectsthaneitherofusandhehadtothankusforkeepinghispowderdryWedecidedtocrossthelakeatoncebeforebreakfastorwhilewecouldandbeforestartingItookthebearingoftheshorewhichwewishedtostrikeSSEaboutthreemilesdistant lest a sudden misty rain should conceal it when we were midwayThoughthebayinwhichwewerewasperfectlyquietandsmoothwefoundthelakealreadywideawakeoutsidebutnotdangerouslyorunpleasantlysoneverthelesswhenyougetoutononeofthoselakesinacanoelikethisyoudonot forget thatyouarecompletelyat themercyof thewindanda ficklepower it isTheplayfulwavesmayat any timebecome too rude foryou intheirsportandplayrightonoveryouWesawafewshecorwaysandafishhawk thus early and aftermuch steady paddling and dancing over the darkwavesofApmoojenegamookwefoundourselvesintheneighborhoodofthesouthernlandheardthewavesbreakingonitandturnedourthoughtswhollyto that side After coasting eastward along this shore a mile or two webreakfastedonarockypointthefirstconvenientplacethatofferedItwaswell enough thatwe crossed thus early for thewaves now ran quitehighandweshouldhavebeenobligedtogoroundsomewhatbutbeyondthispointwehadcomparativelysmoothwaterYoucancommonlygoalongonesideortheotherofalakewhenyoucannotcrossitTheIndianwas lookingat thehard-woodridgesfromtime to timeandsaidthat he would like to buy a few hundred acres somewhere about this lakeaskingouradviceItwastobuyasnearthecrossing-placeaspossible

MycompanionandIhavingaminutesdiscussiononsomepointofancienthistorywereamusedbytheattitudewhichtheIndianwhocouldnottellwhatweweretalkingaboutassumedHeconstitutedhimselfumpireandjudgingby our air and gesture he very seriously remarked from time to time youbeatorhebeatLeavingaspaciousbayanortheasterlyprolongationofChamberlainLakeonourleftweenteredthroughashortstrait intoasmall lakeacoupleofmilesovercalledon themapTelasinisbut theIndianhadnodistinctnamefor itand thence into Telos Lake which he calledPaytaywecomgomoc or Burnt-Ground Lake This curved round toward the northeast andmay have beenthreeorfourmileslongaswepaddledHehadnotbeenheresince1825HedidnotknowwhatTelosmeantthoughtitwasnotIndianHeusedthewordspokelogan(foraninletintheshorewhichlednowhere)andwhenIaskeditsmeaningsaidthattherewasnoIndianinemTherewasaclearingwithahouseandbarnonthesouthwestshoretemporarilyoccupiedbysomemenwhoweregettingthehayaswehadbeentoldalsoaclearingforapastureonahillonthewestsideofthelakeWe landedona rockypointon thenortheast side to lookat someredpines(Pinus resinosa) the first we had noticed and get some cones for our fewwhichgrowinConcorddonotbearanyTheoutletfromthelakeintotheEastBranchofthePenobscotisanartificialone and it was not very apparent where it was exactly but the lake rancurvingfarupnortheasterlyintotwonarrowvalleysorravinesasifithadforalongtimebeengropingitswaytowardthePenobscotwatersorrememberedwhen it anciently flowed therebyobservingwhere thehorizonwas lowestandfollowingthelongestoftheseweatlengthreachedthedamhavingcomeaboutadozenmilesfromthelastcampSomebodyhadleftalinesetfortroutandthejackknifewithwhichthebaithadbeencutonthedambesideitanevidence thatmanwas near and on a deserted log close by a loaf of breadbakedinaYankeebakerTheseprovedthepropertyofasolitaryhunterwhomwesoonmetandcanoeandgunandtrapswerenotfaroffHetoldusthatitwas twentymiles fartheronour route to the footofGrandLakewhereyoucouldcatchasmany troutasyouwantedand that the firsthousebelow thefootofthelakeontheEastBranchwasHuntsaboutforty-fivemilesfartherthough therewasoneaboutamileandahalfupTroutStreamsomefifteenmilesaheadbutitwasratherablindroutetoitItturnedoutthatthoughthestreamwasinourfavorwedidnotreachthenexthousetillthemorningofthethirdday after thisThenearest permanently inhabitedhousebehinduswasnowadozenmilesdistantsothattheintervalbetweenthetwonearesthousesonourroutewasaboutsixtymilesThishunterwhowasaquitesmallsunburntmanhavingalreadycarriedhis

canoeoverandbakedhisloafhadnothingsointerestingandpressingtodoastoobserveourtransitHehadbeenoutamonthormorealoneHowmuchmorewildandadventuroushislifethanthatofthehunterinConcordwoodswho gets back to his house and the mill-dam every night Yet they in thetowns who have wild oats to sow commonly sow them on cultivated andcomparatively exhausted ground And as for the rowdy world in the largecities so little enterprisehas it that it never adventures in thisdirectionbutlike vermin clubs together in alleys and drinking-saloons its highestaccomplishmentperchance to runbesidea fire-engineand throwbrickbatsBut the former is comparatively an independent and successfulmangettinghislivinginawaythathelikeswithoutdisturbinghishumanneighborsHowmuchmorerespectablealsoisthelifeofthesolitarypioneerorsettlerintheseoranywoodsmdashhavingrealdifficultiesnotofhisowncreationdrawinghissubsistencedirectly fromnaturemdashthan thatof thehelplessmultitudes in thetownswhodependongratifyingtheextremelyartificialwantsofsocietyandarethrownoutofemploymentbyhardtimesHere for the first time we found the raspberries really plentymdashthat is onpassing theheight of landbetween theAllegash and theEastBranchof thePenobscotthesamewastrueoftheblueberriesTelosLaketheheadoftheStJohnonthissideandWebsterPondtheheadoftheEastBranchofthePenobscotareonlyaboutamileapartandtheyareconnectedby a ravine inwhichbut little diggingwas required tomake thewater of the former which is the highest flow into the latter This canalwhichissomethinglessthanamilelongandaboutfourrodswidewasmadeafewyearsbeforemyfirstvisittoMaineSincethenthelumberoftheupperAllegash and its lakes has been run down the Penobscot that is up theAllegash which here consists principally of a chain of large and stagnantlakes whose thoroughfares or river-links have been made nearly equallystagnantbydammingandthendownthePenobscotTherushofthewaterhasproducedsuchchanges in thecanal that ithasnowtheappearanceofaveryrapidmountain stream flowing througha ravine andyouwouldnot suspectthatanydigginghadbeenrequired topersuade thewatersof theSt John toflow into thePenobscothere Itwassowinding thatonecouldseebut littlewaydownItisstatedbySpringerinhisForestLifethatthecauseofthiscanalbeingdugwasthisaccordingtothetreatyof1842withGreatBritainitwasagreedthatallthetimberrundowntheStJohnwhichrisesinMainewhenwithintheProvinceofNewBrunswickshallbedealtwithasifitweretheproduceofthesaidProvincewhichwasthoughtbyoursidetomeanthatitshouldbefreefromtaxationImmediatelytheProvincewishingtogetsomethingoutoftheYankeesleviedadutyonallthetimberthatpasseddowntheStJohnbut

to satisfy its own subjects made a correspondingdiscount on the stumpagecharged thosehauling timber fromthecrown landsThe resultwas that theYankeesmadetheStJohnruntheotherwayordownthePenobscotsothattheProvincelostbothitsdutyanditswaterwhiletheYankeesbeinggreatlyenrichedhadreasontothankitforthesuggestionItiswonderfulhowwellwateredthiscountryisAsyoupaddleacrossalakebays will be pointed out to you by following up which and perhaps thetributarystreamwhichemptiesinyoumayafterashortportageorpossiblyat some seasons none at all get into another riverwhich empties far awayfromtheoneyouareonGenerallyyoumaygoinanydirectioninacanoebymakingfrequentbutnotverylongportagesYouareonlyrealizingoncemorewhatallnaturedistinctlyremembersherefornodoubtthewatersflowedthusinaformergeologicalperiodandinsteadofbeingalakecountry itwasanarchipelago It seems as if the more youthful and impressible streams canhardly resist the numerous invitations and temptations to leave their nativebedsandrundowntheirneighborschannelsYourcarriesareoftenoverhalf-submergedgroundon thedrychannelsofaformerperiod IncarryingfromonerivertoanotherIdidnotgooversuchhighandrockygroundasingoingabout thefallsof thesameriverFor in theformercaseIwasonce lost inaswampasIhaverelatedandagainfoundanartificialcanalwhichappearedtobenaturalI remember once dreaming of pushing a canoe up the rivers ofMaine andthatwhenIhadgotsohighthatthechannelsweredryIkeptonthroughtheravines and gorges nearly aswell as before by pushing a little harder andnowitseemedtomethatmydreamwaspartiallyrealizedWhereverthereisachannelforwaterthereisaroadforthecanoeThepilotofthesteamerwhichranfromOldtownupthePenobscotin1854toldmethatshe drew only fourteen inches and would run easily in two feet of waterthoughtheydidnotliketoItissaidthatsomeWesternsteamerscanrunonaheavy dewwhencewe can imaginewhat a canoemay doMontresorwhowassentfromQuebecby theEnglishabout1760toexplore theroute to theKennebecoverwhichArnoldafterwardpassedsupplied thePenobscotnearitssourcewithwaterbyopeningthebeaver-damsandhesaysThisisoftendone He afterward states that the Governor of Canada had forbidden tomolestthebeaverabouttheoutletoftheKennebecfromMooseheadLakeonaccount of the service which their dams did by raising the water fornavigationThiscanalsocalledwasaconsiderableandextremelyrapidandrockyriverTheIndiandecidedthattherewaswaterenoughinitwithoutraisingthedamwhichwouldonlymakeitmoreviolentandthathewouldrundownitalonewhilewecarried thegreater part of thebaggageOurprovisionbeing about

halfconsumedtherewasthelessleftinthecanoeWehadthrownawaythepork-keg and wrapt its contents in birch bark which is the unequaledwrapping-paperofthewoodsFollowing amoist trail through the forest we reached the head ofWebsterPondabout thesametimewith theIndiannotwithstandingthevelocitywithwhichhemovedourroutebeingthemostdirectTheIndiannameofWebsterStreamofwhichthispondisthesourceisaccordingtohimMadunkchunki eHeight ofLand and of the pondMadunkchunk-gamooc orHeight ofLandPondThelatterwastwoorthreemileslongWepassednearapineonitsshorewhichhadbeensplinteredbylightningperhapsthedaybeforeThiswasthefirstproperEastBranchPenobscotwaterthatwecametoAt the outlet ofWebster Lake was another dam at which we stopped andpickedraspberrieswhiletheIndianwentdownthestreamahalf-milethroughtheforest toseewhathehadgot tocontendwithTherewasadeserted logcamphere apparentlyused thepreviouswinterwith its hovelorbarn forcattle In the hut was a large fir twig bed raised two feet from the flooroccupyingalargepartofthesingleapartmentalongnarrowtableagainstthewallwithastoutlogbenchbeforeitandabovethetableasmallwindowtheonlyonetherewaswhichadmittedafeeblelightItwasasimpleandstrongfort erected against the cold and suggestedwhat valiant trencherwork hadbeendonethereIdiscoveredoneortwocuriouswoodentrapswhichhadnotbeenusedforalongtimeinthewoodsnearbyTheprincipalpartconsistedofalongandslenderpoleWegot our dinner on the shore on the upper side of the damAsweweresitting by our fire concealed by the earth bank of the dam a long line ofsheldrakehalf-growncamewaddlingover it from thewaterbelowpassingwithin about a rod of us so thatwe could almost have caught them in ourhandsTheywereveryabundantonallthestreamsandlakeswhichwevisitedandeverytwoorthreehourstheywouldrushawayinalongstringoverthewaterbeforeustwentytofiftyofthematoncerarelyeverflyingbutrunningwith great rapidity up or down the stream even in the midst of the mostviolentrapidsandapparentlyasfastupasdownorelsecrossingdiagonallytheoldasitappearedbehindanddrivingthemandflyingtothefrontfromtime to time as if to direct themWe also saw many small black dipperswhichbehavedinasimilarmannerandonceortwiceafewblackducksAnIndianatOldtownhadtoldusthatweshouldbeobligedtocarrytenmilesbetweenTelosLakeon theStJohnandSecondLakeon theEastBranchofthePenobscot but the lumbererswhomwemet assuredus that therewouldnotbemorethanamileofcarryItturnedoutthattheIndianwhohadlatelybeenoverthisroutewasnearestrightasfaraswewereconcernedHoweverifoneofuscouldhaveassistedtheIndianinmanagingthecanoeintherapids

wemight have run the greater part of the way but as he was alone in themanagementofthecanoeinsuchplaceswewereobligedtowalkthegreaterpartIdidnotfeelquitereadytotrysuchanexperimentonWebsterStreamwhich has so bad a reputation According to my observation a batteauproperlymanned shoots rapids as amatterof coursewhicha single IndianwithacanoecarriesroundMy companion and I carried a good part of the baggage on our shoulderswhiletheIndiantookthatwhichwouldbeleast injuredbywet inthecanoeWedidnotknowwhenweshouldseehimagainforhehadnotbeenthiswaysincethecanalwascutnorformorethanthirtyyearsHeagreedtostopwhenhegottosmoothwatercomeupandfindourpathifhecouldandhallooforusandafterwaitingareasonabletimegoonandtryagainmdashandweweretolookoutinlikemannerforhimHecommencedbyrunningthroughthesluicewayandoverthedamasusualstandingupinhistossingcanoeandwassoonoutofsightbehindapointinawildgorgeThisWebsterStream iswell known to lumbermen as a difficultone It is exceedingly rapid and rocky and also shallow and can hardly beconsiderednavigableunlessthatmaymeanthatwhatislaunchedinitissuretobecarriedswiftlydownitthoughitmaybedashedtopiecesbythewayItis somewhat like navigating a thunder-spoutWith commonly an irresistibleforceurgingyouonyouhavegot tochooseyourowncourseeachmomentbetween the rocks and shallows and to get into itmoving forward alwayswiththeutmostpossiblemoderationandoftenholdingonifyoucanthatyoumayinspecttherapidsbeforeyouBy the Indians direction we took an old path on the south side whichappearedtokeepdownthestreamthoughataconsiderabledistancefromitcuttingoffbendsperhapstoSecondLakehavingfirsttakenthecoursefromthemapwith a compasswhichwas northeasterly for safety It was awildwood-pathwithafewtracksofoxenwhichhadbeendrivenoveritprobablyto someold campclearing forpasturagemingledwith the tracksofmoosewhichhadlatelyuseditWekeptonsteadilyforaboutanhourwithoutputtingdownourpacksoccasionallywindingaroundorclimbingoverafallen treefor themostpart faroutof sight andhearingof the river till afterwalkingaboutthreemilesweweregladtofindthatthepathcametotheriveragainatanoldcampgroundwheretherewasasmallopeningintheforestatwhichwepausedSwiftlyastheshallowandrockyriverranhereacontinuousrapidwithdancingwavesIsawasIsatontheshorea longstringofsheldrakeswhichsomethingscared runup theopposite sideof thestreambymewiththesameeasethattheycommonlydiddownitjusttouchingthesurfaceofthewavesandgettinganimpulsefromthemastheyflowedfromunderthembuttheysooncamebackdrivenbytheIndianwhohadfallenalittlebehinduson

accountofthewindingsHeshotroundapointjustaboveandcametolandbyuswithconsiderablewaterinhiscanoeHehadfounditashesaidverystrongwaterandhadbeenobligedtolandoncebeforetoemptyoutwhathehadtakeninHecomplainedthatitstrainedhimtopaddlesohardinordertokeephis canoe straight in its course havingnoone in thebows to aidhimand shallow as itwas said that itwould be no joke to upset there for theforceofthewaterwassuchthathehadasliefIwouldstrikehimovertheheadwithapaddleashavethatwaterstrikehimSeeinghimcomeoutofthatgapwasasifyoushouldpourwaterdownaninclinedandzigzagtroughthendropanutshellintoitandtakingashortcuttothebottomgetthereintimetoseeitcomeoutnotwithstandingtherushandtumultrightsideupandonlypartlyfullofwaterAfteramomentsbreathing-spacewhileIheldhiscanoehewassoonoutofsightagainaroundanotherbendandweshoulderingourpacksresumedourcourseWedidnotatoncefallintoourpathagainbutmadeourwaywithdifficultyalongtheedgeoftherivertillatlengthstrikinginlandthroughtheforestwerecovered itBeforegoing amileweheard the Indian calling tousHehadcome up through the woods and along the path to find us having reachedsufficientlysmoothwatertowarranthistakingusinTheshorewasaboutonefourthofamiledistantthroughadensedarkforestandasheledusbacktoitwindingrapidlyabouttotherightandleftIhadthecuriositytolookdowncarefully and found that hewas followinghis steps backward I could onlyoccasionallyperceivehis trail inthemossandyethedidnotappeartolookdownnorhesitateaninstantbutledusoutexactlytohiscanoeThissurprisedmeforwithoutacompassor thesightornoiseof theriver toguideuswecould not have kept our coursemanyminutes and could have retraced ourstepsbutashortdistancewithagreatdealofpainsandveryslowlyusingalaboriouscircumspectionButitwasevidentthathecouldgobackthroughtheforestwhereverhehadbeenduringthedayAfterthisroughwalkinginthedarkwoodsitwasanagreeablechangetoglidedowntherapidriverinthecanoeoncemoreThisriverwhichwasaboutthesizeofourAssabet(inConcord)thoughstillveryswiftwasalmostperfectlysmoothhereandshowedaveryvisibledeclivitya regularly inclinedplaneforseveralmileslikeamirrorsetalittleaslantonwhichwecoasteddownThis very obvious regular descent particularly plain when I regarded thewater-line against the shoresmade a singular impression onmewhich theswiftnessofourmotionprobablyenhancedso thatweseemedtobeglidingdown a much steeper declivity than we were and that we could not saveourselves from rapids and falls if we should suddenly come to them Mycompanion did not perceive this slope but I have a surveyors eyes and I

satisfiedmyself that itwas no ocular illusionYou could tell at a glance onapproaching such a river which way the water flowed though you mightperceivenomotionIobservedtheangleatwhichalevellinewouldstrikethesurfaceandcalculatedtheamountoffall inarodwhichdidnotneedtoberemarkablygreattoproducethiseffectItwasveryexhilaratingandtheperfectionoftravelingquiteunlikefloatingonourdeadConcordRiverthecoastingdownthisinclinedmirrorwhichwasnow and then gently winding down a mountain indeed between twoevergreenforestsedgedwithloftydeadwhitepinessometimesslantedhalf-way over the stream and destined soon to bridge it I saw some monstersthere nearly destitute of branches and scarcely diminishing in diameter foreightyorninetyfeetAswethussweptalongourIndianrepeatedinadeliberateanddrawlingtonethewordsDanielWebstergreatlawyerapparentlyremindedofhimbythenameof the stream andhe describedhis calling on himonce inBoston atwhathesupposedwashisboarding-houseHehadnobusinesswithhimbutmerelywenttopayhisrespectsasweshouldsayInanswertoourquestionshedescribedhispersonwellenoughItwasonthedayafterWebsterdeliveredhisBunkerHillorationwhichIbelievePolisheardThefirsttimehecalledhewaited till he was tired without seeing him and then went away The nexttimehesawhimgobythedooroftheroominwhichhewaswaitingseveraltimes in his shirt-sleeves without noticing him He thought that if he hadcometoseeIndianstheywouldnothavetreatedhimsoAtlengthafterverylongdelayhecameinwalkedtowardhimandaskedinaloudvoicegrufflyWhatdoyouwantandhethinkingatfirstbythemotionofhishandthathewasgoingtostrikehimsaidtohimselfYoudbettertakecareifyoutrythatIshallknowwhattodoHedidnotlikehimanddeclaredthatallhesaidwas not worth talk about a musquash We suggested that probably MrWebsterwasverybusyandhadagreatmanyvisitorsjustthenComing to falls and rapidsoureasyprogresswas suddenly terminatedTheIndianwentalongshoretoinspectthewaterwhileweclimbedovertherockspickingberriesThepeculiargrowthofblueberriesonthetopsoflargerocksheremade the impression of high land and indeed this was the Height-of-LandStreamWhentheIndiancamebackheremarkedYougottowalkverstrongwaterSo takingouthiscanoehe launcheditagainbelowthefallsandwassoonoutofsightAtsuchtimeshewouldstepintothecanoetakeuphispaddleandwithanairofmysterystartofflookingfardown-streamandkeeping his own counsel as if absorbing all the intelligence of forest andstream into himself but I sometimes detected a little fun in his facewhichcould yield tomy sympathetic smile for hewas thoroughly good-humoredWemeanwhile scrambledalong the shorewithourpackswithout anypath

ThiswasthelastofourboatingforthedayTheprevailing rockherewas akindof slate standingon its edges andmycompanionwhowasrecently fromCalifornia thought itexactly like that inwhichthegoldisfoundandsaidthatifhehadhadapanhewouldhavelikedtowashalittleofthesandhereTheIndiannowgotalongmuchfasterthanweandwaitedforusfromtimetotime I found here the only cool spring that I drank at anywhere on thisexcursion a little water filling a hollow in the sandy bank It was a quitememorableevent anddue to theelevationof thecountry forwherever elsewehadbeenthewaterintheriversandthestreamsemptyinginwasdeadandwarmcomparedwiththatofamountainousregionItwasverybadwalkingalongtheshoreoverfallenanddriftedtreesandbushesandrocksfromtimetotimeswingingourselvesroundoverthewaterorelsetakingtoagravelbarorgoinginlandAtoneplacetheIndianbeingaheadIwasobligedtotakeoffallmyclothesinordertofordasmallbutdeepstreamemptyinginwhilemycompanionwhowasinlandfoundarudebridgehighupinthewoodsandIsawnomoreofhimforsometimeIsawthereveryfreshmoosetracksfoundanewgoldenrodtome(perhapsSolidagothyrsoidea)andIpassedonewhitepine logwhichhad lodged in the forestnear theedgeof thestreamwhichwasquitefivefeetindiameteratthebuttProbablyitssizedetaineditShortlyafterthisIovertooktheIndianattheedgeofsomeburntlandwhichextended three or four miles at least beginning about three miles aboveSecondLakewhichwewereexpectingtoreachthatnightandwhichisabouttenmilesfromTelosLakeThisburntregionwasstillmorerockythanbeforebut though comparatively open we could not yet see the lake Not havingseenmycompanionforsometimeIclimbedwiththeIndianasingularhighrockontheedgeoftheriverforminganarrowridgeonlyafootortwowideattopinordertolookforhimandaftercallingmanytimesIatlengthheardhimanswerfromaconsiderabledistanceinlandhehavingtakenatrailwhichledofffromtheriverperhapsdirectlytothelakeandwasnowinsearchoftheriveragainSeeingamuchhigherrockof thesamecharacteraboutonethirdofamilefarthereastordown-streamIproceededtowarditthroughtheburnt land inorder to look for the lake from its summit supposing that theIndianwouldkeepdownthestreaminhiscanoeandhallooingall thewhilethat my companion might join me on the way Before we came together Inoticed where a moose which possibly I had scared by my shouting hadapparentlyjustrunalongalargerottentrunkofapinewhichmadeabridgethirtyorfortyfeetlongoverahollowasconvenientforhimasformeThetrackswereaslargeasthoseofanoxbutanoxcouldnothavecrossedthereThisburntlandwasanexceedinglywildanddesolateregionJudgingbytheweedsandsprouts itappearedtohavebeenburntabout twoyearsbeforeIt

wascoveredwithcharred trunkseitherprostrateorstandingwhichcrockedourclothesandhandsandwecouldnoteasilyhavedistinguishedabeartherebyhiscolorGreatshellsoftreessometimesunburntwithoutorburntononesideonlybutblackwithinstoodtwentyorfortyfeethighThefirehadrunupinsideasinachimneyleavingthesap-woodSometimeswecrossedarockyravine fifty feetwide on a fallen trunk and therewere great fields of fire-weed (Epilobium angustifolium) on all sides themost extensive that I eversaw which presented great masses of pink Intermixed with these wereblueberryandraspberrybushesHavingcrosseda second rocky ridge like the firstwhen Iwasbeginning toascend the third the Indian whom I had left on the shore some fifty rodsbehind beckoned tome to come to him but Imade sign that Iwould firstascend the highest rock before me whence I expected to see the lakeMycompanionaccompaniedmetothetopThiswasformedjust liketheothersBeingstruckwiththeperfectparallelismofthesesingularrockhillshowevermuchonemightbeinadvanceofanotherItookoutmycompassandfoundthat they laynorthwest and southeast the rockbeingon its edge and sharpedges theywereThisone to speak frommemorywasperhaps a thirdof amile in length but quite narrow rising gradually from the northwest to theheightofabouteightyfeetbutsteeponthesoutheastendThesouthwestsidewas as steep as anordinary roof or aswecould safely climb thenortheastwasanabruptprecipicefromwhichyoucouldjumpcleantothebottomnearwhichtheriverflowedwhiletheleveltopoftheridgeonwhichyouwalkedalongwasonlyfromonetothreeorfourfeetinwidthForarudeillustrationtakethehalfofapearcutintwolengthwiselayitonitsflatsidethestemtothenorthwestandthenhalveitverticallyinthedirectionofitslengthkeepingthesouthwesthalfSuchwasthegeneralformThere was a remarkable series of these great rock-waves revealed by theburning breakers as it were No wonder that the river that found its waythroughthemwasrapidandobstructedbyfallsNodoubttheabsenceofsoilon these rocks or its drynesswhere therewas any caused this tobe averythoroughburningWecouldsee the lakeover thewoods twoor threemilesaheadandthattherivermadeanabruptturnsouthwardaroundthenorthwestendofthecliffonwhichwestoodoralittleaboveussothatwehadcutoffabend and that therewas an important fall in it a short distance belowus IcouldseethecanoeahundredrodsbehindbutnowontheoppositeshoreandsupposedthattheIndianhadconcludedtotakeoutandcarryroundsomebadrapidsonthatsideandthatthatmightbewhathehadbeckonedtomeforbutafterwaiting awhile I could still seenothingof him and I observed tomycompanion that Iwonderedwherehewas thoughIbegantosuspect thathehadgoneinlandtolookforthelakefromsomehilltoponthatsideaswehaddoneThisprovedtobethecaseforafterIhadstartedtoreturntothecanoeI

heardafainthallooanddescriedhimonthetopofadistantrockyhillonthatsideButas aftera long timehadelapsed I still sawhiscanoe in the sameplaceandhehadnot returned to itandappeared innohurry todosoandmoreoverasIrememberedthathehadpreviouslybeckonedtomeIthoughtthat theremightbe somethingmore todelayhim than Iknewandbegan toreturn northwest along the ridge toward the angle in the river MycompanionwhohadjustbeenseparatedfromusandhadevencontemplatedthenecessityofcampingalonewishingtohusbandhisstepsandyettokeepwithusinquiredwhereIwasgoingtowhichIansweredthatIwasgoingfarenoughbacktocommunicatewiththeIndianandthatthenIthoughtwehadbettergoalongtheshoretogetherandkeephiminsightWhenwereached theshore the Indianappeared fromout thewoodson theopposite side but on account of the roar of the water it was difficult tocommunicatewithhimHekeptalongtheshorewestwardtohiscanoewhilewe stopped at the angle where the stream turned southward around theprecipiceIagainsaidtomycompanionthatwewouldkeepalongtheshoreand keep the Indian in sightWe started to do so being close together theIndian behind us having launched his canoe again but just then I saw thelatterwhohadcrossedtooursidefortyorfiftyrodsbehindbeckoningtomeandIcalledtomycompanionwhohadjustdisappearedbehindlargerocksatthepointoftheprecipicethreeorfourrodsbeforemeonhiswaydownthestreamthatIwasgoingtohelptheIndianamomentIdidsomdashhelpedgetthecanoeoverafalllyingwithmybreastoverarockandholdingoneendwhilehe received it belowmdashandwithin tenor fifteenminutes atmost IwasbackagainatthepointwheretheriverturnedsouthwardinordertocatchupwithmycompanionwhilePolisglideddowntheriveraloneparallelwithmeButtomy surprisewhen I rounded the precipice though the shorewas bare oftreeswithoutrocksforaquarterofamileatleastmycompanionwasnottobe seen It was as if he had sunk into the earth This was the moreunaccountable to me because I knew that his feet were since our swampwalkvery sore and thathewished tokeepwith theparty andbesides thiswas very bad walking climbing over or about the rocks I hastened alonghallooing and searching for him thinking he might be concealed behind arockyetdoubtingifhehadnottakentheothersideoftheprecipicebuttheIndianhadgotalongstillfasterinhiscanoetillhewasarrestedbythefallsaboutaquarterofamilebelowHethenlandedandsaidthatwecouldgonofartherthatnightThesunwassettingandonaccountoffallsandrapidsweshouldbeobligedtoleavethisriverandcarryagoodwayintoanotherfarthereastThefirstthingthenwastofindmycompanionforIwasnowverymuchalarmedabouthimandIsenttheIndianalongtheshoredown-streamwhichbegan to be covered with unburnt wood again just below the falls while Isearched backward about the precipice which we had passed The Indian

showed some unwillingness to exert himself complaining that hewas verytired in consequence of his dayswork that it had strained him verymuchgettingdownsomanyrapidsalonebuthewentoffcallingsomewhatlikeanowlIrememberedthatmycompanionwasnear-sightedandIfearedthathehadeitherfallenfromtheprecipiceorfaintedandsunkdownamidtherocksbeneath it I shouted and searched above and below this precipice in thetwilight till I could not see expecting nothing less than to find his bodybeneathitForhalfanhourIanticipatedandbelievedonlytheworstIthoughtwhatIshoulddothenextdayifIdidnotfindhimwhatIcoulddoinsuchawildernessandhowhisrelativeswouldfeelifIshouldreturnwithouthimIfelt that if he were really lost away from the river there it would be adesperateundertakingtofindhimandwhereweretheywhocouldhelpyouWhat would it be to raise the country where there were only two or threecampstwentyorthirtymilesapartandnoroadandperhapsnobodyathomeYetwemusttrytheharderthelesstheprospectofsuccessIrusheddownfromthisprecipicetothecanoeinordertofiretheIndiansgunbutfoundthatmycompanionhadthecapsIwasstillthinkingofgettingitoffwhentheIndianreturnedHehadnotfoundhimbuthesaidthathehadseenhistracksonceortwicealongtheshoreThisencouragedmeverymuchHeobjectedtofiringthegunsayingthatifmycompanionhearditwhichwasnotlikelyonaccountoftheroarofthestreamitwouldtempthimtocometowardusandhemightbreakhisneckinthedarkForthesamereasonwerefrainedfromlightingafireonthehighestrockIproposedthatweshouldbothkeepdownthestreamtothelakeorthatIshouldgoatanyratebuttheIndiansaidNousecantdoanythingin thedarkcomemorning thenwefind emNoharmmdashhemakeemcampNobadanimalsherenogristlybearssuchasinCalifornia where hes beenmdashwarm nightmdashhe well off as you and I IconsideredthatifhewaswellhecoulddowithoutusHehadjustlivedeightyearsinCaliforniaandhadplentyofexperiencewithwildbeastsandwildermenwaspeculiarly accustomed tomake journeysof great length but if heweresickordeadhewasnearwherewewereThedarknessinthewoodswasby this so thick that it alonedecided thequestionWemustcampwherewewereIknewthathehadhisknapsackwithblanketsandmatchesandifwellwouldfarenoworsethanweexceptthathewouldhavenosuppernorsocietyThis side of the river being so encumbered with rocks we crossed to theeasternorsmoothershoreandproceededtocamptherewithin twoor threerods of the falls We pitched no tent but lay on the sand putting a fewhandfulsofgrass and twigsunderus therebeingnoevergreenat handForfuelwehadsomeofthecharredstumpsOurvariousbagsofprovisionshadgotquitewetintherapidsandIarrangedthemaboutthefiretodryThefallclosebywastheprincipaloneonthisstreamanditshooktheearthunderusIt was a cool because dewy night the more so probably owing to the

nearness of the falls The Indian complained a good deal and thoughtafterwardthathegotacoldtherewhichoccasionedamoreseriousillnessWewerenotmuch troubledbymosquitoesat any rate I layawakeagooddealfrom anxiety but unaccountably to myself was at length comparatively ateaserespectinghimAtfirstIhadapprehendedtheworstbutnowIhadlittledoubtbutthatIshouldfindhiminthemorningFromtimetotimeIfanciedthat I heardhisvoice calling through the roarof the falls from theoppositeside of the river but it is doubtful if we could have heard him across thestream there Sometimes I doubted whether the Indian had really seen histracks sincehemanifestedanunwillingness tomakemuchofa search andthenmyanxietyreturnedIt was the most wild and desolate region we had camped in where ifanywhere one might expect to meet with befitting inhabitants but I heardonlythesqueakofanighthawkflittingoverThemooninherfirstquarterintheforepartofthenightsettingoverthebarerockyhillsgarnishedwithtallcharredandhollowstumpsorshellsoftreesservedtorevealthedesolationTHURSDAYJuly30I aroused the Indian early this morning to go in search of our companionexpecting to find him within a mile or two farther down the stream TheIndianwantedhisbreakfastfirstbutIremindedhimthatmycompanionhadhadneitherbreakfastnorsupperWewereobligedfirsttocarryourcanoeandbaggageoverintoanotherstreamthemainEastBranchaboutthreefourthsofamiledistant forWebsterStreamwasno farthernavigableWewent twiceover this carry and the dewy bushes wet us through like water up to themiddle I hallooed in a high key from time to time though I had littleexpectationthatIcouldbeheardovertheroaroftherapidsandmoreoverwewerenecessarilyontheoppositesideofthestreamtohimIngoingoverthisportage the last time the Indianwhowas beforemewith the canoe on hisheadstumbledandfellheavilyonceandlayforamomentsilentasifinpainIhastilysteppedforwardtohelphimaskingifhewasmuchhurtbutafteramomentspausewithoutreplyinghesprangupandwentforwardHewasallthewaysubjecttotaciturnfitsbuttheywereharmlessonesWe had launched our canoe and gone but littleway down theEastBranchwhenIheardanansweringshoutfrommycompanionandsoonaftersawhimstandingonapointwheretherewasaclearingaquarterofamilebelowandthesmokeofhisfirewasrisingnearbyBeforeIsawhimInaturallyshoutedagain and again but the Indian curtly remarked Hehears you as if oncewas enough It was just below the mouth of Webster Stream When wearrived he was smoking his pipe and said that he had passed a prettycomfortablenightthoughitwasrathercoldonaccountofthedewIt appeared that when we stood together the previous evening and I was

shoutingtotheIndianacrosstheriverhebeingnear-sightedhadnotseentheIndiannorhiscanoeandwhenIwentbacktotheIndiansassistancedidnotseewhichwayIwentandsupposedthatwewerebelowandnotabovehimandsomakinghaste tocatchupheranawayfromusHavingreached thisclearingamileormorebelowourcampthenightovertookhimandhemadeafireinalittlehollowandlaydownbyitinhisblanketstillthinkingthatwewereaheadofhimHethoughtitlikelythathehadheardtheIndiancalloncetheeveningbeforebutmistookitforanowlHehadseenonebotanicalraritybefore itwasdarkmdashpurewhiteEpilobiumangustifoliumamidst the fieldsofpink ones in the burnt lands He had already stuck up the remnant of alumberersshirt foundonthepointonapolebythewatersideforasignalandattachedanotetoittoinformusthathehadgoneontothelakeandthatifhedidnotfindustherehewouldbebackinacoupleofhoursIfhehadnotfoundussoonhehadsomethoughtsofgoingback insearchof thesolitaryhunterwhomwehadmetatTelosLaketenmilesbehindandifsuccessfulhirehimtotakehimtoBangorButifthishunterhadmovedasfastaswehewouldhavebeentwentymilesoffbythistimeandwhocouldguessinwhatdirectionItwouldhavebeenlikelookingforaneedleinahaymowtosearchforhimin thesewoodsHehadbeenconsideringhowlonghecould liveonberriesaloneWesubstitutedforhisnoteacardcontainingournamesanddestinationandthedateofourvisitwhichPolisneatly inclosed in apieceofbirchbark tokeepitdryThishasprobablybeenreadbysomehunterorexplorererethisWeallhadgoodappetitesforthebreakfastwhichwemadehastetocookhereand then having partially dried our clothes we glided swiftly down thewindingstreamtowardSecondLakeAs the shores became flatter with frequent gravel and sand-bars and thestreammorewindinginthelowerlandnearthelakeelmsandashtreesmadetheirappearancealsothewildyellowlily(LiliumCanadense)someofwhosebulbsIcollectedforasoupOnsomeridgestheburntlandextendedasfarasthe lakeThiswas a very beautiful lake two or threemiles longwith highmountainsonthesouthwestsidethe(asourIndiansaid)Nerlumskeechticooki e Deadwater Mountain It appears to be the same called CarbuncleMountainonthemapAccordingtoPolisitextendsinseparateelevationsallalong this and thenext lakewhich ismuch largerThe lake too I think iscalledbythesamenameorperhapswiththeadditionofgamocormoocThemorningwasabrightoneandperfectlystillandserenethelakeassmoothasglasswemaking theonly ripple aswepaddled into itThedarkmountainsabout itwere seen through aglaucousmist and thebrilliantwhite stemsofcanoebirchesmingledwiththeotherwoodsarounditThewoodthrushsangon the distant shore and the laugh of some loons sporting in a concealed

westernbayasif inspiredbythemorningcamedistinctoverthelaketousandwhatwasmoreremarkabletheechowhichranroundthelakewasmuchlouderthantheoriginalnoteprobablybecausetheloonbeinginaregularlycurvingbayunderthemountainwewereexactlyinthefocusofmanyechoesthesoundbeingreflectedlikelightfromaconcavemirrorThebeautyofthescenemayhavebeenenhancedtooureyesbythefactthatwehadjustcometogether again after a night of some anxiety This reminded me of theAmbejijis Lake on theWestBranchwhich I crossed inmy first coming toMaine Having paddled down three quarters of the lake we came to astandstillwhilemycompanionletdownforfishAwhite(orwhitish)gullsaton a rock which rose above the surface in mid-lake not far off quite inharmonywiththesceneandaswerestedthereinthewarmsunweheardoneloudcrushingorcracklingsoundfromtheforestfortyorfiftyrodsdistantasof a stick broken by the foot of some large animal Even this was aninterestingincidentthereInthemidstofourdreamsofgiantlaketrouteventhensupposedtobenibblingourfishermendrewupadiminutiveredperchandwetookupourpaddlesagaininhasteItwas not apparentwhere the outlet of this lakewas andwhile the IndianthoughtitwasinonedirectionIthoughtitwasinanotherHesaidIbetyoufour-penceitistherebuthestillheldoninmydirectionwhichprovedtobethe right oneAswewere approaching the outlet it being still early in theforenoonhesuddenlyexclaimedMoosemooseandtoldustobestillHeputacaponhisgunandstandingupinthesternrapidlypushedthecanoestraighttowardtheshoreandthemooseItwasacowmooseaboutthirtyrodsoffstandinginthewaterbythesideoftheoutletpartlybehindsomefallentimberandbushesandat thatdistanceshedidnot lookvery largeShewasflapping her large ears and from time to time poking off the flieswith hernose from somepart of her body She did not appearmuch alarmed by ourneighborhoodonlyoccasionallyturnedherheadandlookedstraightatusandthengaveherattentiontothefliesagainAsweapproachednearershegotoutofthewaterstoodhigherandregardedusmoresuspiciouslyPolispushedthecanoe steadily forward in the shallowwater and I for amoment forgot themooseinattendingtosomeprettyrose-coloredPolygonumsjustrisingabovethesurfacebutthecanoesoongroundedinthemudeightortenrodsdistantfrom the moose and the Indian seized his gun and prepared to fire Afterstandingstillamomentsheturnedslowlyasusualsoastoexposehersideandhe improved thismoment to fireoverourheadsShe thereuponmovedoff eight or ten rods at a moderate pace across a shallow bay to an oldstanding-placeofhersbehindsomefallenredmaplesontheoppositeshoreand there she stood still again a dozen or fourteen rods from us while theIndian hastily loaded and fired twice at her without her moving MycompanionwhopassedhimhiscapsandbulletssaidthatPoliswasasexcited

asaboyoffifteen thathishandtrembledandheonceputhis ramrodbackupside down This was remarkable for so experienced a hunter Perhaps hewasanxioustomakeagoodshotbeforeusThewhitehunterhadtoldmethatthe Indianswere not good shots because theywere excited though he saidthatwehadgotagoodhunterwithusTheIndiannowpushedquicklyandquietlybackandalongdistanceroundinorder to get into the outletmdashfor he had fired over the neck of a peninsulabetween itand the lakemdashtillweapproached theplacewhere themoosehadstoodwhenheexclaimedSheisagonerandwassurprisedthatwedidnotseeherassoonashedidThere tobesureshe layperfectlydeadwithhertonguehangingoutjustwhereshehadstoodtoreceivethelastshotslookingunexpectedlylargeandhorse-likeandwesawwherethebulletshadscarredthetreesUsingatapeIfoundthatthemoosemeasuredjustsixfeetfromtheshouldertothetipofthehoofandwaseightfeetlongasshelaySomeportionsofthebody for a foot in diameterwere almost coveredwith flies apparently thecommonflyofourwoodswithadarkspotonthewingandnottheverylargeones which occasionally pursued us in midstream though both are calledmoose-fliesPolispreparingtoskinthemooseaskedmetohelphimfindastoneonwhichtosharpenhislargeknifeItbeingallaflatalluvialgroundwherethemoosehadfallencoveredwithredmaplesetcthiswasnoeasymatterwesearchedfarandwidealongtimetillatlengthIfoundaflatkindofslate-stoneandsoon after he returnedwith a similar one onwhichhe soonmadehis knifeverysharpWhilehewasskinningthemooseIproceededtoascertainwhatkindoffishesweretobefoundinthesluggishandmuddyoutletThegreatestdifficultywastofindapoleItwasalmostimpossibletofindaslenderstraightpoletenortwelvefeetlonginthosewoodsYoumightsearchhalfanhourinvainTheyarecommonlysprucearbor-vitaeligfiretcshortstoutandbranchyanddonotmakegoodfish-polesevenafteryouhavepatientlycutoffalltheirtoughandscraggybranchesThefisheswereredperchandchivinThe Indian having cut off a large piece of sirloin the upper lip and thetonguewrappedtheminthehideandplacedtheminthebottomofthecanoeobservingthattherewasonemanmeaningtheweightofoneOurloadhadpreviouslybeenreducedsomethirtypoundsbutahundredpoundswerenowaddedmdasha serious additionwhichmade our quarters stillmore narrow andconsiderablyincreasedthedangeronthelakesandrapidsaswellasthelaborofthecarriesTheskinwasoursaccordingtocustomsincetheIndianwasinouremploybutwedidnotthinkofclaimingitHebeingaskillfuldresserofmoose-hideswouldmakeitworthsevenoreightdollarstohimasIwastold

HesaidthathesometimesearnedfiftyorsixtydollarsinadayatthemhehadkilledtenmooseinonedaythoughtheskinningandalltooktwodaysThiswas the way he had got his property There were the tracks of a calfthereabouts which he saidwould come by by and he could get it if wecaredtowaitbutIcastcoldwaterontheprojectWecontinuedalongtheoutlettowardGrandLakethroughaswampyregionbya longwindingandnarrowdeadwaterverymuchchokedupbywoodwherewewereobligedtolandsometimesinordertogetthecanoeoveralogItwashardtofindanychannelandwedidnotknowbutweshouldbelostintheswampItaboundedinducksasusualAtlengthwereachedGrandLakewhichtheIndiancalledMatungamookAt the head of this we saw coming in from the southwest with a sweepapparently from a gorge in themountains Trout Stream orUncardnerheesewhichnametheIndiansaidhadsomethingtodowithmountainsWe stopped to dine on an interesting high rocky island soon after enteringMatungamook Lake securing our canoe to the cliffy shore It is alwayspleasant to step from a boat on to a large rock or cliff Here was a goodopportunity to dry our dewy blankets on the open sunny rock Indians hadrecently camped here and accidentally burned over the western end of theisland and Polis picked up a gun-case of blue broadcloth and said that heknewtheIndianitbelongedtoandwouldcarryittohimHistribeisnotsolargebuthemayknowallitseffectsWeproceededtomakeafireandcookourdinneramidsomepineswhereourpredecessorshaddonethesamewhiletheIndianbusiedhimselfabouthismoose-hideontheshoreforhesaidthathethoughtitagoodplanforonetodoallthecookingieIsupposeifthatonewerenothimselfApeculiarevergreenoverhungour firewhichat firstglancelookedlikeapitchpine(Prigida)withleaveslittlemorethananinchlongspruce-likebutwefoundittobethePinusBanksianamdashBankssortheLabradorPinealsocalledscrubpinegraypineetcanewtreetousThesemust have been good specimens for several were thirty or thirty-five feethigh Richardson found it forty feet high and upward and states that theporcupinefeedsonitsbarkHerealsogrewtheredpine(Pinusresinosa)I sawwhere the Indians hadmade canoes in a little secluded hollow in thewoodsonthetopoftherockwheretheywereoutofthewindandlargepilesof whittlings remained This must have been a favorite resort for theirancestorsandindeedwefoundherethepointofanarrowheadsuchastheyhavenotusedfortwocenturiesandnowknownothowtomakeTheIndianpickingupastoneremarkedtomeThatverystrangelock(rock)Itwasapiece of hornstone which I told him his tribe had probably brought herecenturiesbeforetomakearrowheadsofHealsopickedupayellowishcurvedbonebythesideofourfireplaceandaskedmetoguesswhatitwasItwasone

of theupper incisorsof abeaveronwhich somepartyhad feastedwithinayearortwoIfoundalsomostoftheteethandtheskulletcWeheredinedonfriedmoose-meatOnewhowasmycompanioninmytwopreviousexcursionstothesewoodstells me that when hunting up the Caucomgomoc about two years ago hefoundhimself diningonedayonmoose-meatmud turtle trout andbeaverand he thought that there were few places in the world where these dishescouldeasilybebroughttogetherononetableAfter the almost incessant rapids and falls of theMadunkchunk (Height-of-Land or Webster Stream) we had just passed through the dead water ofSecondLakeandwerenowinthemuchlargerdeadwaterofGrandLakeandIthoughttheIndianwasentitledtotakeanextranaphereKtaadnnearwhichwe were to pass the next day is said to mean Highest Land So muchgeographyisthereintheirnamesTheIndiannavigatornaturallydistinguishesbyanamethosepartsofastreamwherehehasencounteredquickwaterandforksandagainthelakesandsmoothwaterwherehecanresthiswearyarmssince those are themost interesting andmore arable parts to himThe verysightoftheNerlumskeechticookorDeadwaterMountainsadaysjourneyoffovertheforestaswefirstsawthemmustawakeninhimpleasingmemoriesAndnotlessinterestingisittothewhitetravelerwhenheiscrossingaplacidlakeintheseout-of-the-waywoodsperhapsthinkingthatheisinsomesenseoneoftheearlierdiscoverersofittoberemindedthatitwasthuswellknownandsuitablynamedbyIndianhuntersperhapsathousandyearsagoAscending theprecipitous rockwhich formed this longnarrow island Iwassurprisedtofindthatitssummitwasanarrowridgewithaprecipiceononeside and that its axis of elevation extended from northwest to southeastexactly like thatof thegreat rocky ridgeat thecommencementof theBurntGround tenmiles northwesterlyThe same arrangement prevailed here andwecouldplainlyseethatthemountainridgesonthewestofthelaketrendedthesamewaySplendidlargeharebellsnoddedovertheedgeandinthecleftsofthecliffandtheblueberries(VacciniumCanadense)wereforthefirsttimereally abundant in the thin soil on its top There was no lack of themhenceforward on the East Branch There was a fine view hence over thesparklinglakewhichlookedpureanddeepandhadtwoorthreeinallrockyislands in it Our blankets being dry we set out again the Indian as usualhaving left his gazette on a tree This time it waswe three in a canoemycompanionsmokingWepaddledsouthwarddownthishandsomelakewhichappearedtoextendnearlyasfareastassouthkeepingnearthewesternshorejustoutsideasmallislandunderthedarkNerlumskeechticookMountainForIhadobservedonmymapthatthiswasthecourseItwasthreeorfourmilesacrossitItstruckmethattheoutlineofthismountainonthesouthwestofthe

lakeandofanotherbeyonditwasnotonlylikethatofthehugerockwavesofWebsterStreambutinthemainlikeKineoonMooseheadLakehavingasimilar but less abrupt precipice at the southeast end in short that all theprominenthillsandridgeshereaboutswerelargerorsmallerKineosandthatpossibly therewas such a relation betweenKineo and the rocks ofWebsterStreamTheIndiandidnotknowexactlywheretheoutletwaswhetherattheextremesouthwest angle ormore easterly and had asked to seemy plan at the laststopping-placebutIhadforgottentoshowittohimAsusualhewentfeelinghiswaybyamiddlecoursebetweentwoprobablepointsfromwhichhecoulddiverge eitherway at lastwithout losingmuch distance In approaching thesouthshoreasthecloudslookedgustyandthewavesranprettyhighwesosteeredas togetpartlyunder the leeofan island thoughatagreatdistancefromitIcouldnotdistinguishtheoutlettillwewerealmostinitandheardthewaterfallingoverthedamthereHere was a considerable fall and a very substantial dam but no sign of acabinorcampThehunterwhomwemetatTelosLakehadtoldusthattherewereplentyof trout here but at this hour theydidnot rise to thebait onlycousintroutfromtheverymidstoftherushingwatersTherearenotsomanyfishesintheseriversasintheConcordWhileweloiteredherePolistookoccasiontocutwithhisbigknifesomeofthehair fromhismoose-hide and so lightened andprepared it for drying InoticedatseveraloldIndiancampsin thewoodsthepileofhairwhichtheyhadcutfromtheirhidesHavingcarriedoverthedamhedarteddowntherapidsleavingustowalkforamileormorewhereforthemostparttherewasnopathbutverythickanddifficult traveling near the stream At length he would call to let us knowwherehewaswaitingforuswithhiscanoewhenonaccountofthewindingsofthestreamwedidnotknowwheretheshorewasbuthedidnotcalloftenenoughforgettingthatwewerenotIndiansHeseemedtobeverysavingofhisbreathmdashyethewouldbesurprisedifwewentbyordidnotstriketherightspotThiswasnotbecausehewasunaccommodatingbutaproofofsuperiormannersIndiansliketogetalongwiththeleastpossiblecommunicationandadoHewasreallypayingusagreatcomplimentall thewhile thinking thatwepreferredahinttoakickAt length climbing over thewillows and fallen treeswhen thiswas easierthantogoroundorunderthemweovertookthecanoeandglideddownthestreaminsmoothbutswiftwaterforseveralmilesIhereobservedagainasatWebsterStreamandonastill larger scale thenextday that the riverwasa

smooth and regularly inclined plane down which we coasted As we thusglidedalongwestartedthefirstblackduckswhichwehaddistinguishedWe decided to camp early to-night that we might have ample time beforedark so we stopped at the first favorable shore where there was a narrowgravelly beach on thewestern side some fivemiles below the outlet of thelakeItwasaninterestingspotwheretheriverbegantomakeagreatbendtothe east and the last of the peculiar moose-faced NerlumskeechticookMountainsnotfarsouthwestofGrandLakerosedarkinthenorthwestashortdistancebehind displaying its grayprecipitous southeast side butwe couldnotseethiswithoutcomingoutupontheshoreTwostepsfromthewateroneithersideandyoucometotheabruptbushyandrooty if not turfy edge of the bank four or five feet high where theinterminableforestbeginsasifthestreamhadbutjustcutitswaythroughitItissurprisingonsteppingashoreanywhereintothisunbrokenwildernesstoseesooftenatleastwithinafewrodsoftheriverthemarksoftheaxemadeby lumberers who have either camped here or driven logs past in previousspringsYouwillseeperchancewheregoingonthesameerrandthatyoudotheyhavecutlargechipsfromatallwhitepinestumpfortheirfireWhilewewerepitchingthecampandgettingsuppertheIndiancuttherestofthehairfrom his moose-hide and proceeded to extend it vertically on a temporaryframebetweentwosmalltreeshalfadozenfeetfromtheoppositesideofthefirelashingandstretchingitwitharbor-vitaeligbarkwhichwasalwaysathandandinthiscasewasstrippedfromoneofthetreesitwastiedtoAskingforanew kind of tea he made us some pretty good of the checkerberry(Gaultheriaprocumbens)whichcoveredthegrounddroppingalittlebunchofit tied up with cedar bark into the kettle but it was not quite equal to theChiogenesWecalledthisthereforeCheckerberry-TeaCampI was struck with the abundance of the Linnaeliga borealis checkerberry andChiogeneshispidulaalmosteverywhereintheMainewoodsThewintergreen(Chimaphila umbellata) was still in bloom here and clintonia berries wereabundant and ripeThis handsomeplant is one of themost common in thatforest We here first noticed the moose-wood in fruit on the banks Theprevailingtreeswerespruce(commonlyblack)arbor-vitaeligcanoebirch(blackash and elms beginning to appear) yellow birch red maple and a littlehemlockskulkingintheforestTheIndiansaidthatthewhitemaplepunkwasthe best for tinder that yellow birch punkwas pretty good but hardAftersupperheputonthemoosetongueandlipstoboilcuttingouttheseptumHeshowedmehowtowriteontheundersideofbirchbarkwithablacksprucetwigwhichishardandtoughandcanbebroughttoapointTheIndianwanderedoffintothewoodsashortdistancejustbeforenightandcoming back said Me found great treasuremdashfifty sixty dollars worth

WhatsthatweaskedSteeltrapsunderalogthirtyorfortyIdidntcountem I guess Indian workmdashworth three dollars apiece It was a singularcoincidence that he should have chanced to walk to and look under thatparticularloginthattracklessforestI saw chivin and chub in the stream when washing my hands but mycompaniontriedinvaintocatchthemIalsoheardthesoundofbullfrogsfromaswampontheoppositeside thinkingatfirst that theyweremooseaduckpaddled swiftly by and sitting in that dusky wilderness under that darkmountainbythebrightriverwhichwasfullofreflectedlightstillIheardthewoodthrushsingas ifnohighercivilizationcouldbeattainedBythis timethenightwasuponusYou commonlymake your camp just at sundown and are collectingwoodgetting your supper or pitching your tent while the shades of night aregathering around and adding to the already dense gloom of the forest Youhave no time to explore or look around you before it is dark You maypenetratehalfadozenrodsfartherintothattwilightwildernessaftersomedrybark to kindle your fire with and wonder what mysteries lie hidden stilldeeperinitsayattheendofalongdayswalkoryoumayrundowntotheshoreforadipperofwaterandgetaclearerviewforashortdistanceupordownthestreamandwhileyoustandthereseeafishleaporduckalightintheriverorhearawoodthrushorrobinsinginthewoodsThatisasifyouhadbeen to townorcivilizedpartsBut there isnosaunteringoff tosee thecountryandtenorfifteenrodsseemsagreatwayfromyourcompanionsandyoucomebackwiththeairofamuch-traveledmanasfromalongjourneywithadventurestorelatethoughyoumayhaveheardthecracklingofthefireall thewhilemdashand at a hundred rods youmight be lost past recovery andhavetocampoutItisallmossyandmooseyInsomeofthosedensefirandsprucewoods there is hardly room for the smoke to go up The trees are astanding night and every fir and sprucewhich you fell is a plume pluckedfromnightsravenwingThenatnightthegeneralstillnessismoreimpressivethananysoundbutoccasionallyyouhearthenoteofanowlfartherornearerin the woods and if near a lake the semihuman cry of the loons at theirunearthlyrevelsTo-nighttheIndianlaybetweenthefireandhisstretchedmoose-hidetoavoidthemosquitoesIndeedhealsomadeasmallsmokyfireofdampleavesathisheadandhisfeetandthenasusualrolleduphisheadinhisblanketWewithourveilsandourwashweretolerablycomfortablebutitwouldbedifficulttopursueanysedentaryoccupationinthewoodsatthisseasonyoucannotseetoreadmuchbythelightofafirethroughaveilintheeveningnorhandlepencilandpaperwellwithglovesoranointedfingersFRIDAYJuly31

TheIndiansaidYouandIkillmooselastnightthereforeuseembestwoodAlways use hard wood to cook moose-meat His best wood was rockmapleHecastthemooseslipintothefiretoburnthehairoffandthenrolledit upwith themeat to carry alongObserving thatwewere sitting down tobreakfastwithoutanyporkhesaidwithaverygrave lookMewantsomefatsohewastoldthathemighthaveasmuchashewouldfryWehadsmoothbutswiftwaterforaconsiderabledistancewhereweglidedrapidly along scaring up ducks and kingfishers But as usual our smoothprogresserelongcametoanendandwewereobligedtocarrycanoeandallabouthalfamiledowntherightbankaroundsomerapidsorfallsItrequiredsharpeyessometimesto tellwhichsidewasthecarrybeforeyouwentoverthe falls but Polis never failed to land us rightly The raspberries wereparticularly abundant and largehere and all handswent to eating them theIndianremarkingontheirsizeOftenonbarerockycarriesthetrailwassoindistinctthatIrepeatedlylostitbutwhenIwalkedbehindhimIobservedthathecouldkeepitalmostlikeahoundandrarelyhesitatedorifhepausedamomentonabarerockhiseyeimmediatelydetectedsomesignwhichwouldhaveescapedmeFrequentlywefoundnopathatallattheseplacesandweretohimunaccountablydelayedHewouldonlysayitwasverstrangeWehadheardof aGrandFall on this stream and thought that each fallwecametomustbeitbutafterchristeningseveralinsuccessionwiththisnamewe gave up the search There were more Grand or Petty Falls than I canrememberIcannottellhowmanytimeswehadtowalkonaccountoffallsorrapidsWewereexpectingall thewhile that theriverwouldtakeafinal leapandget tosmooth water but there was no improvement this forenoon However thecarrieswereanagreeablevarietySosurelyaswesteppedoutofthecanoeandstretched our legs we found ourselves in a blueberry and raspberry gardeneachsideofourrockytrailaroundthefallsbeinglinedwithoneorbothTherewasnotacarryonthemainEastBranchwherewedidnotfindanabundanceofboththeseberriesfortheseweretherockiestplacesandpartiallyclearedsuchastheseplantspreferandtherehadbeennonetogatherthefinestbeforeusIn our three journeys over the carriesmdashforwewere obliged to go over thegroundthreetimeswheneverthecanoewastakenoutmdashwedidfulljusticetotheberriesandtheywerejustwhatwewantedtocorrecttheeffectofourhardbread and pork diet Another name for making a portage would have beengoinga-berryingWealsofoundafewamelanchierorserviceberriesthoughmostwere abortive but they held on rathermore generally than they do inConcordTheIndiancalledthempemoymenukandsaidthattheyboremuch

fruit in some places He sometimes also ate the northern wild red cherriessayingthattheyweregoodmedicinebuttheywerescarcelyedibleWebathedanddinedatthefootofoneofthesecarriesItwastheIndianwhocommonlyremindedus that itwasdinner-time sometimesevenby turning theprow totheshoreHeoncemadean indirectbut lengthyapologybysaying thatwemight think it strange but that one who worked hard all day was veryparticulartohavehisdinneringoodseasonAtthemostconsiderablefallonthis streamwhen Iwaswalking over the carry close behind the Indian heobserveda trackon the rockwhichwasbut slightlycoveredwith soil andstoopingmutteredcaribouWhenwe returnedheobservedamuch largertrack near the same place where some animals foot had sunk into a smallhollowin therockpartly filledwithgrassandearthandheexclaimedwithsurprise What that Well what is it I asked Stooping and laying hishand in it he answeredwith amysterious air and in a halfwhisper Devil[thatisIndianDevilorcougar]mdashledgesaboutheremdashverybadanimalmdashpullemrocksall topiecesHowlongsince itwasmadeIaskedTo-dayoryesterdaysaidheButwhenIaskedhimafterwardifhewassureitwasthedevils track he said he did not know I had been told that the scream of acougar was heard about Ktaadn recently and we were not far from thatmountainWespentatleasthalfthetimeinwalkingto-dayandthewalkingwasasbadasusualfortheIndianbeingalonecommonlyrandownfarbelowthefootofthecarriesbeforehewaitedforusThecarry-pathsthemselvesweremorethanusually indistinctoften the routebeing revealedonlyby thecountlesssmallholes in the fallen timbermade by the tacks in the drivers boots orwherethere was a slight trail we did not find it It was a tangled and perplexingthicketthroughwhichwestumbledandthreadedourwayandwhenwehadfinishedamileofitourstarting-pointseemedfarawayWeweregladthatwehadnotgottowalktoBangoralongthebanksofthisriverwhichwouldbeajourneyofmorethanahundredmilesThinkofthedensenessoftheforestthefallentreesandrocksthewindingsoftheriverthestreamsemptyinginandthefrequentswampstobecrossedItmadeyoushudderYettheIndianfromtime to time pointed out to uswhere he had thus crept along day after daywhenhewasaboyoftenandinastarvingconditionHehadbeenhuntingfarnorthofthiswithtwogrownIndiansThewintercameonunexpectedlyearlyand the ice compelled them to leave their canoe at Grand Lake and walkdownthebankTheyshoulderedtheirfursandstartedforOldtownThesnowwasnotdeepenoughforsnowshoesortocovertheinequalitiesofthegroundPoliswas soon tooweak to carry anyburden but hemanaged to catchoneotterThiswasthemosttheyallhadtoeatonthisjourneyandherememberedhowgoodtheyellowlilyrootsweremadeintoasoupwiththeotteroilHeshared this food equallywith the other two but being so small he suffered

much more than they He waded through the Mattawamkeag at its mouthwhenitwasfreezingcoldandcameuptohischinandhebeingveryweakandemaciatedexpectedtobesweptawayThefirsthousewhichtheyreachedwasatLincolnandthereaboutstheymetawhiteteamsterwithsupplieswhoseeingtheirconditiongavethemasmuchofhisloadastheycouldeatForsixmonthsaftergettinghomehewasvery lowanddidnotexpect to liveandwasperhapsalwaystheworseforitWecouldnotfindmuchmorethanhalfofthisdaysjourneyonourmaps(theMap of the Public Lands of Maine and Massachusetts and ColtonsRailroad and Township Map of Maine which copies the former) By themapstherewasnotmorethanfifteenmilesbetweencampsattheoutsideandyetwehadbeenbusilyprogressingalldayandmuchofthetimeveryrapidlyForsevenoreightmilesbelowthatsuccessionofGrandfallstheaspectofthebanksaswellasthecharacterofthestreamwaschangedAfterpassingatributary from the northeast perhaps Bowlin Stream we had good swiftsmooth water with a regular slope such as I have described Low grassybanksandmuddyshoresbeganManyelmsaswellasmaplesandmoreashtreesoverhungthestreamandsupplantedthespruceMy lily roots having been lost when the canoe was taken out at a carry IlandedlateintheafternoonatalowandgrassyplaceamidmaplestogathermoreItwasslowworkgrubbingthemupamidthesandandthemosquitoeswereallthewhilefeastingonmeMosquitoesblackfliesetcpursuedusinmid-channelandweweregladsometimestogetintoviolentrapidsforthenweescapedthemAred-headedwoodpeckerflewacrosstheriverandtheIndianremarkedthatitwasgoodtoeatAsweglidedswiftlydowntheinclinedplaneoftheriveragreatcatowllauncheditselfawayfromastumponthebankandflewheavilyacross the streamand the Indian asusual imitated itsnoteSoon the samebirdflewback infrontofusandweafterwardspassed itperchedona treeSoon afterward awhite-headed eagle sailed down the stream before usWedrovehimseveralmileswhilewewerelookingforagoodplacetocampforweexpectedtobeovertakenbyashowermdashandstillwecoulddistinguishhimbyhiswhitetailsailingawayfromtimetotimefromsometreebytheshorestillfartherdownthestreamSomeshecorwaysbeingsurprisedbyusapartofthem dived andwe passed directly over them and could trace their coursehereandtherebyabubbleonthesurfacebutwedidnotseethemcomeupPolis detectedonce or twicewhat he called a tow road an indistinct pathleadingintotheforestInthemeanwhilewepassedthemouthoftheSebooison our leftThis did not look so large as our streamwhichwas indeed themainone Itwassome timebeforewe foundacamping-place for theshorewaseithertoograssyandmuddywheremosquitoesaboundedortoosteepa

hillside The Indian said that there were but few mosquitoes on a steephillsideWeexaminedagoodplacewheresomebodyhadcampedalongtimebutitseemedpitifultooccupyanoldsitewheretherewassomuchroomtochoosesowecontinuedonWeatlengthfoundaplacetoourmindsonthewest bank about amile below themouth of the Seboois where in a verydensesprucewoodaboveagravellyshorethereseemedtobebutfewinsectsThetreesweresothickthatwewereobligedtoclearaspacetobuildourfireandliedowninandtheyoungsprucetreesthatwereleftwerelikethewallofanapartment risingaroundusWewereobliged topullourselvesupasteepbank to get there But the place which you have selected for your campthough never so rough and grim begins at once to have its attractions andbecomesaverycentreofcivilization toyouHome ishomebe itneversohomelyItturnedoutthatthemosquitoesweremorenumerousherethanwehadfoundthem before and the Indian complained a good deal though he lay as thenightbeforebetweenthreefiresandhisstretchedhideAsIsatonastumpbythe firewithaveilandgloveson trying to readheobservedImakeyoucandleandinaminutehetookapieceofbirchbarkabouttwoincheswideandrolled ithard likeanallumettefifteen inches long lit itandfixed itbytheotherendhorizontallyinasplitstickthreefeethighstuckitinthegroundturning the blazing end to thewind and tellingme to snuff it from time totimeItansweredthepurposeofacandleprettywellI noticed as I had done before that therewas a lull among themosquitoesabout midnight and that they began again in the morning Nature is thusmercifulButapparently theyneed restaswellasweFew ifanycreaturesareequallyactiveallnightAssoonasitwaslightIsawthroughmyveilthattheinsideofthetentaboutourheadswasquiteblackenedwithmyriadseachoneof theirwingswhenflyingashasbeencalculatedvibratingsomethreethousand times in aminute and their combined humwas almost as bad toendureastheirstingsIhadanuncomfortablenightonthisaccountthoughIamnotsurethatonesucceededinhisattempttostingmeWedidnotsuffersomuch from insects on this excursion as the statements of some who haveexploredthesewoodsinmidsummerledustoanticipateYetIhavenodoubtthatat someseasonsand insomeplaces theyareamuchmoreseriouspestTheJesuitHieromeLalemantofQuebecreportingthedeathofFatherReniMenardwhowasabandonedlosthiswayanddiedinthewoodsamongtheOntarios near Lake Superior in 1661 dwells chiefly on his probablesufferings from theattacksofmosquitoeswhen tooweak todefendhimselfadding that there was a frightful number of them in those parts and soinsupportablesayshethatthethreeFrenchmenwhohavemadethatvoyageaffirmthattherewasnoothermeansofdefendingonesselfbuttorunalwayswithoutstoppinganditwasevennecessaryfortwoofthemtobeemployedin

drivingoffthesecreatureswhilethethirdwantedtodrinkotherwisehecouldnothavedoneitIhavenodoubtthatthiswassaidingoodfaithAugust1I caught two or three large red chivin (Leuciscus pulchellus) early thismorningwithintwentyfeetofthecampwhichaddedtothemoose-tonguethathadbeenleftinthekettleboilingovernightandtoourotherstoresmadea sumptuous breakfast The Indian made us some hemlock tea instead ofcoffeeandwewerenotobligedtogoasfarasChinaforitindeednotquiteso far as for the fish This was tolerable though he said it was not strongenoughItwas interestingtoseesosimpleadishasakettleofwaterwithahandfulofgreenhemlocksprigs in itboilingover thehuge fire in theopenairtheleavesfastlosingtheirlivelygreencolorandknowthatitwasforourbreakfastWeweregladtoembarkoncemoreandleavesomeofthemosquitoesbehindWehadpassedtheWassataquoikwithoutperceivingitThisaccordingtotheIndianisthenameofthemainEastBranchitselfandnotproperlyappliedtothissmalltributaryaloneasonthemapsWefoundthatwehadcampedaboutamileaboveHuntswhichisontheeastbankandisthelasthouseforthosewhoascendKtaadnonthissideWehadexpectedtoascenditfromthispointbutmycompanionwasobligedtogiveup this on account of sore feetThe Indian however suggested thatperhapshemightgetapairofmoccasinsatthisplaceandthathecouldwalkveryeasilyinthemwithouthurtinghisfeetwearingseveralpairsofstockingsandhesaidbesidethattheyweresoporousthatwhenyouhadtakeninwaterit all drained out again in a littlewhileWe stopped to get some sugar butfoundthatthefamilyhadmovedawayandthehousewasunoccupiedexcepttemporarily by somemenwhowere getting the hay They toldme that theroadtoKtaadnlefttherivereightmilesabovealsothatperhapswecouldgetsomesugaratFisksfourteenmilesbelowIdonotrememberthatwesawthemountain at all from the river I noticed a seine here stretchedon the bankwhichprobablyhadbeenused tocatchsalmon Justbelow thison thewestbank we saw a moose-hide stretched and with it a bearskin which wascomparativelyvery small Iwas themore interested in this sight because itwasnearhere that a townsmanofours thenquite a lad andalonekilledalargebearsomeyearsagoTheIndiansaidthattheybelongedtoJoeAitteonmylastguidebuthowhetoldIdonotknowHewasprobablyhuntingnearandhadleftthemforthedayFindingthatweweregoingdirectlytoOldtownhe regretted that he had not taken more of the moose-meat to his familysayingthatinashorttimebydryingithecouldhavemadeitsolightastohave brought away the greater part leaving the bones We once or twiceinquiredafterthelipwhichisafamoustidbitbuthesaidThatgoOldtown

formyoldwomandontgetiteverydayMaples grewmore andmore numerous Itwas lowering and rained a littleduring the forenoon and as we expected a wetting we stopped early anddinedon theeast sideofa smallexpansionof the river justabovewhatareprobably calledWhetstone Falls about a dozen miles below Hunts Therewere pretty fresh moose-tracks by the waterside There were singular longridges hereabouts called horsebacks covered with fernsMy companionhavinglosthispipeaskedtheIndianifhecouldnotmakehimoneOhyersaid he and in aminute rolled up one of birch bark telling him towet thebowlfromtimetotimeHerealsohelefthisgazetteonatreeWecarriedroundthefallsjustbelowonthewestsideTherockswereontheiredgesandverysharpThedistancewasaboutthreefourthsofamileWhenwehadcarriedoverone load the Indianreturnedby theshoreandIby thepath and though Imadenoparticular haste Iwasnevertheless surprised tofindhimat theother endas soonas I Itwas remarkablehoweasilyhegotalongover theworstgroundHe said tome I takecanoeandyou take therestsupposeyoucankeepalongwithmeIthoughtthathemeantthatwhileherandowntherapidsIshouldkeepalongtheshoreandbereadytoassisthimfromtimetotimeasIhaddonebeforebutasthewalkingwouldbeverybadIansweredIsupposeyouwillgotoofastformebutIwilltryButIwas to go by the path he said This I thoughtwould not help thematter IshouldhavesofartogotogettotheriversidewhenhewantedmeButneitherwasthiswhathemeantHewasproposingaraceoverthecarryandaskedmeifIthoughtIcouldkeepalongwithhimbythesamepathaddingthatImustbeprettysmart todo itAshis load thecanoewouldbemuch theheaviestandbulkiestthoughthesimplestIthoughtthatIoughttobeabletodoitandsaidthatIwouldtrySoIproceededtogatherupthegunaxepaddlekettlefrying-panplatesdipperscarpetsetcetcandwhileIwasthusengagedhethrewmehiscowhidebootsWhatare thesein thebargainIaskedOhyer said he but before I could make a bundle of my load I saw himdisappearingover a hillwith the canoeonhis head so hastily scraping thevariousarticlestogetherIstartedontherunandimmediatelywentbyhiminthebushesbutIhadnosoonerlefthimoutofsightinarockyhollowthanthegreasy plates dippers etc took to themselves wings and while I wasemployedingatheringthemupagainhewentbymebuthastilypressingthesootykettletomysideIstartedoncemoreandsoonpassinghimagainIsawhimnomoreonthecarryIdonotmentionthisasanythingofafeatforitwasbutpoorrunningonmypartandhewasobligedtomovewithgreatcautionfor fear of breaking his canoe as well as his neck When he made hisappearancepuffingandpantinglikemyselfinanswertomyinquirieswherehehadbeenhesaidRocks(locks)cutemfeetandlaughingaddedOhmelovetoplaysometimesHesaidthatheandhiscompanionswhenthey

cametocarriesseveralmileslongusedtotrywhowouldgetoverfirsteachperhapswithacanoeonhisheadIborethesignofthekettleonmybrownlinensackfortherestofthevoyageWemade a second carry on the west side around some falls about a milebelowthisOnthemainlandwereNorwaypinesindicatinganewgeologicalformationanditwassuchadryandsandysoilaswehadnotnoticedbeforeAsweapproachedthemouthoftheEastBranchwepassedtwoorthreehutsthe first sign of civilization afterHunts thoughwe sawno road as yetweheardacow-bellandevensawaninfanthelduptoasmallsquarewindowtoseeuspassbutapparentlytheinfantandthemotherthathelditweretheonlyinhabitantsthenathomeforseveralmilesThistookthewindoutofoursailsremindingus thatwewere travelerssurelywhile itwasanativeof thesoiland had the advantage of us Conversation flagged I would only hear theIndian perhaps ask my companion You load my pipe He said that hesmokedalderbarkformedicineOnenteringtheWestBranchatNicketowitappearedmuch larger than the East Polis remarked that the formerwas allgone and lost now that it was all smooth water hence to Oldtown and hethrew away his polewhichwas cut on theUmbazookskus Thinking of therapidshesaidonceor twice thatyouwouldntcatchhim togoEastBranchagainbuthedidnotbyanymeansmeanallthathesaidThingsarequitechangedsinceIwashereelevenyearsagoWheretherewerebutoneortwohousesInowfoundquiteavillagewithsawmillsandastore(thelatterwaslockedbutitscontentsweresomuchthemoresafelystored)and there was a stage-road to Mattawamkeag and the rumor of a stageIndeedasteamerhadascendedthusfaroncewhenthewaterwasveryhighButwewerenotabletogetanysugaronlyabettershingletoleanourbacksagainstWecampedabout twomilesbelowNicketowon the south sideof theWestBranchcoveringwithfresh twigs thewitheredbedofaformer travelerandfeelingthatwewerenowinasettledcountryespeciallywhenintheeveningweheardanoxsneezeinitswildpastureacrosstheriverWhereveryoulandalongthefrequentedpartoftheriveryouhavenotfartogotofindthesesitesoftemporaryinnsthewitheredbedofflattenedtwigsthecharredsticksandperhapsthetent-polesAndnotlongsincesimilarbedswerespreadalongtheConnecticut the Hudson and the Delaware and longer still ago by theThames and Seine and they now help to make the soil where private andpublicgardensmansionsandpalacesareWecouldnotgetfir twigsforourbed here and the spruce was harsh in comparison having more twig inproportiontoitsleafbutweimproveditsomewhatwithhemlockTheIndianremarked as before Must have hardwood to cookmoose-meat as if thatwere a maxim and proceeded to get it My companion cooked some in

Californiafashionwindingalongstringofthemeatroundastickandslowlyturning it in his hand before the fire Itwas very goodBut the Indian notapprovingofthemodeorbecausehewasnotallowedtocookithisownwaywouldnottasteitAftertheregularsupperweattemptedtomakealilysoupofthebulbswhichIhadbroughtalongforIwishedtolearnallIcouldbeforeIgot out of thewoods Following the Indians directions for he began to besickIwashedthebulbscarefullymincedsomemoose-meatandsomeporksaltedandboiledall togetherbutwehadnotpatience to try theexperimentfairlyforhesaiditmustbeboiledtilltherootswerecompletelysoftenedsoasto thicken thesoup likeflourbut thoughweleft itonallnightwefounditdried to thekettle in themorning andnotyetboiled to a flourPerhaps therootswerenotripeenoughfortheycommonlygathertheminthefallAsitwasitwaspalatableenoughbutitremindedmeoftheIrishmanslimestonebrothTheother ingredientswereenoughaloneTheIndiansnamefor thesebulbswas Sheepnoc I stirred the soup by accidentwith a stripedmaple ormoose-woodstickwhichIhadpeeledandheremarkedthatitsbarkwasanemeticHe prepared to camp as usual between his moose-hide and the fire but itbeginningtorainsuddenlyhetookrefugeunderthetentwithusandgaveusa songbefore falling asleep It rainedhard in thenight and spoiled anotherboxofmatchesforuswhichtheIndianhadleftoutforhewasverycarelessbut asusualwehad somuch thebetternight for the rain since itkept themosquitoesdownSUNDAYAugust2Was a cloudy and unpromisingmorningOne of us observed to the IndianYoudidnotstretchyourmoose-hidelastnightdidyouMrPolisWhereatherepliedinatoneofsurprisethoughperhapsnotofillhumorWhatyouaskmethatquestionforSupposeIstretchemyouseeemMaybeyourwaytalkingmaybeallrightnoIndianwayIhadobservedthathedidnotwishtoanswerthesamequestionmorethanonceandwasoftensilentwhenitwasput again for the sake of certainty as if he were moody Not that he wasincommunicativeforhefrequentlycommencedalong-windednarrativeofhisown accordmdashrepeated at length the tradition of some old battle or somepassage in the recenthistoryofhis tribe inwhichhehadactedaprominentpartfromtimetotimedrawingalongbreathandresumingthethreadofhistalewiththetruestory-tellersleisurelinessperhapsaftershootingarapidmdashprefacingwithWe-e-llby-byetcashepaddledalongEspeciallyafterthedaysworkwasoverandhehadputhimselfinpostureforthenighthewouldbeunexpectedly sociable exhibit even thebonhommieof aFrenchman andwewouldfallasleepbeforehegotthroughhisperiodsNicketowiscalledelevenmilesfromMattawamkeagbytheriverOurcamp

wasthereforeaboutninemilesfromthelatterplaceTheIndianwasquitesick thismorningwith thecolic I thought thathewastheworseforthemoose-meathehadeatenWereachedtheMattawamkeagathalfpasteightinthemorninginthemidstofadrizzlingrainandafterbuyingsomesugarsetoutagainTheIndiangrowingmuchworsewestopped in thenorthpartofLincoln toget some brandy for him but failing in this an apothecary recommendedBrandreths pills which he refused to take because he was not acquaintedwiththemHesaidtomeMedoctormdashfirststudymycasefindoutwhatailemmdashthen I know what to take We dropped down a little farther andstoppedatmid-forenoononanislandandmadehimadipperofteaHeretoowedinedanddidsomewashingandbotanizingwhilehelayonthebankInthe afternoon we went on a little farther though the Indian was no betterBurntibusashecalleditwasalongsmoothlake-likereachbelowtheFiveIslandsHesaidthatheownedahundredacressomewhereupthiswayAsathunder-showerappearedtobecomingupwestoppedoppositeabarnonthewest bank in Chester about a mile above Lincoln Here at last we wereobligedtospendtherestofthedayandnightonaccountofourpatientwhosesicknessdidnotabateHelaygroaningunderhiscanoeonthebanklookingverywoebegoneyetitwasonlyacommoncaseofcolicYouwouldnothavethoughtifyouhadseenhimlyingaboutthusthathewastheproprietorofsomany acres in that neighborhood was worth six thousand dollars and hadbeentoWashingtonItseemedtomethatliketheIrishhemadeagreateradoabouthissicknessthanaYankeedoesandwasmorealarmedabouthimselfWe talked somewhatof leavinghimwithhispeople inLincolnmdashfor that isone of their homesmdashand taking the stage the next day but he objected onaccount of the expense saying Supposemewell inmorning you and I goOldtownbynoonAswewere taking our tea at twilightwhile he lay groaning still under hiscanoehavingat length foundout whatailhimheaskedme togethimadipperofwaterTakingthedipperinonehandheseizedhispowder-hornwiththeotherandpouringintoitachargeortwoofpowderstirreditupwithhisfingeranddrankitoffThiswasallhetookto-dayafterbreakfastbesidehisteaTosavethetroubleofpitchingourtentwhenwehadsecuredourstoresfromwanderingdogswecampedinthesolitaryhalf-openbarnnearthebankwiththe permission of the owner lying on new-mown hay four feet deep Thefragranceofthehayinwhichmanyfernsetcweremingledwasagreeablethough itwas quite alivewith grasshopperswhich you could hear crawlingthroughitThisservedtograduateourapproachtohousesandfeatherbedsInthenightsomelargebirdprobablyanowlflittedthroughoverourheadsand

very early in themorningwewere awakened by the twittering of swallowswhichhadtheirneststhereMONDAYAugust3We started early before breakfast the Indian being considerably better andsoonglidedbyLincolnandafteranotherlongandhandsomelake-likereachwestoppedtobreakfastonthewestshoretwoorthreemilesbelowthistownWe frequently passed Indian islands with their small houses on them TheGovernorAitteonlivesinoneoftheminLincolnThePenobscotIndiansseemtobemoresocialeventhanthewhitesEverandanoninthedeepestwildernessofMaineyoucometotheloghutofaYankeeor Canada settler but a Penobscot never takes up his residence in such asolitudeTheyarenotevenscatteredaboutontheirislandsinthePenobscotwhichareallwithinthesettlementsbutgatheredtogetherontwoorthreemdashthoughnotalwayson thebest soilmdashevidently for thesakeofsociety I sawoneor twohousesnotnowusedby thembecauseasour IndianPolis saidtheyweretoosolitaryThe small river emptying in atLincoln is theMatanancookwhich alsowenoticedwasthenameofasteamermooredthereSowepaddledandfloatedalonglookingintothemouthsofriversWhenpassingtheMohawkRipsorastheIndiancalledthemMohoglipsfourorfivemilesbelowLincolnhetoldusatlengththestoryofafightbetweenhistribeandtheMohawksthereancientlymdashhowthelatterwereovercomebystratagemthePenobscotsusingconcealedknivesmdashbuttheycouldnotforalongtimekilltheMohawkchiefwho was a very large and strong man though he was attacked by severalcanoesatoncewhenswimmingaloneintheriverFromtimetotimewemetIndiansintheircanoesgoingupriverOurmandidnot commonly approach them but exchanged a few words with them at adistanceinhistongueThesewerethefirstIndianswehadmetsinceleavingtheUmbazookskusAt Piscataquis Falls just above the river of that namewewalked over thewoodenrailroadontheeasternshoreaboutoneandahalfmileslongwhiletheIndianglideddowntherapidsThesteamerfromOldtownstopshereandpassengerstakeanewboatabovePiscataquiswhosemouthweherepassedmeans branch It is obstructed by falls at itsmouth but can be navigatedwith batteaux or canoes above through a settled country even to theneighborhoodofMooseheadLakeandwehad thoughtat firstofgoing thatwayWewerenotobligedtogetoutofthecanoeafterthisonaccountoffallsorrapidsnorindeedwasitquitenecessaryhereWetooklessnoticeofthesceneryto-daybecausewewereinquiteasettledcountryTheriverbecamebroadandsluggishandwesawablueheronwingingitswayslowlydownthe

streambeforeusWe passed the Passadumkeag River on our left and saw the blue Olamonmountains at a distance in the southeast Hereabouts our Indian told us atlength the story of their contention with the priest respecting schools Hethought a great deal of education and had recommended it to his tribeHisargument in its favor was that if you had been to college and learnt tocalculateyoucouldkeepempropertymdashnootherwayHesaidthathisboywasthebestscholarintheschoolatOldtowntowhichhewentwithwhitesHehimselfisaProtestantandgoestochurchregularlyatOldtownAccordingto his account a good many of his tribe are Protestants and many of theCatholics also are in favor of schools Some years ago they had aschoolmaster aProtestantwhom they likedverywellThepriest cameandsaidthattheymustsendhimawayandfinallyhehadsuchinfluencetellingthemthattheywouldgotothebadplaceatlastiftheyretainedhimthattheysent him away The school party though numerous were about giving upBishopFenwickcamefromBostonandusedhis influenceagainst themButourIndiantoldhissidethattheymustnotgiveupmustholdontheywerethestrongestIftheygaveupthentheywouldhavenopartyButtheyansweredthat it was no use priest too strong wed better give up At length hepersuadedthemtomakeastandThepriestwasgoingforasigntocutdowntheliberty-poleSoPolisandhispartyhadasecretmeetingaboutithegotreadyfifteenortwentystoutyoungmen stript em naked and painted em like old times and told them thatwhenthepriestandhispartywenttocutdowntheliberty-poletheyweretorush up take hold of it and prevent them and he assured them that therewouldbenowar only anoisemdashnowarwherepriest isHekepthismenconcealed in a house near by andwhen the priests partywere about to cutdowntheliberty-polethefallofwhichwouldhavebeenadeath-blowtotheschoolpartyhegaveasignalandhisyoungmenrushedoutandseized thepoleTherewasagreatuproarandtheywereaboutcomingtoblowsbutthepriest interfered saying Nowar nowar and so the pole stands and theschoolgoesonstillWethoughtthatitshowedagooddealoftactinhimtoseizethisoccasionandtakehisstandonitprovinghowwellheunderstoodthosewithwhomhehadtodealTheOlamonRivercomesinfromtheeastinGreenbushafewmilesbelowthePassadumkeag When we asked the meaning of this name the Indian saidtherewasanislandoppositeitsmouthwhichwascalledOlarmonthatinoldtimeswhenvisitorswerecomingtoOldtowntheyusedtostoptheretodressand fixupor paint themselves What is thatwhich ladiesusedhe askedRougeRedVermilionYerhesaidthat is larmonakindofclayorred

paintwhichtheyusedtogethereWedecidedthatwetoowouldstopatthisislandandfixupourinnermanatleastbydiningItwasa large islandwithanabundanceofhempnettlebut IdidnotnoticeanykindofredpaintthereTheOlamonRiveratitsmouthatleastisadeadstreamTherewasanotherlargeislandinthatneighborhoodwhichtheIndiancalledSoogle(ieSugar)IslandAboutadozenmilesbeforereachingOldtownheinquiredHowyoulikeemyourpilotButwepostponedananswertillwehadgotquitebackagainTheSunkhaze another shortdead streamcomes in from theeast twomilesaboveOldtownThereissaidtobesomeofthebestdeergroundinMaineonthisstreamAskingthemeaningofthisnametheIndiansaidSupposeyouaregoingdownPenobscotjustlikeweandyouseeacanoecomeoutofbankandgoalongbeforeyoubutyounoseeemstreamThatisSunkhazeHehadpreviously complimentedmeonmypaddling saying that I paddledjust likeanybodygivingmeanIndiannamewhichmeantgreatpaddlerWhen off this stream he said to me who sat in the bows Me teach youpaddleSo turning toward theshorehegotout cameforwardandplacedmyhandsashewishedHeplacedoneofthemquiteoutsidetheboatandtheotherparallelwiththefirstgraspingthepaddleneartheendnotovertheflatextremityandtoldmetoslideitbackandforthonthesideofthecanoeThisIfoundwasagreatimprovementwhichIhadnotthoughtofsavingmethelaborofliftingthepaddleeachtimeandIwonderedthathehadnotsuggesteditbeforeItistruebeforeourbaggagewasreducedwehadbeenobligedtositwith our legs drawn up and our knees above the side of the canoe whichwouldhavepreventedourpaddlingthusorperhapshewasafraidofwearingouthiscanoebyconstantfrictiononthesideItoldhimthatIhadbeenaccustomedtositinthesternandliftingmypaddleateachstrokegiveitatwistinordertosteertheboatonlygettingapryonthesideeachtimeandIstillpaddledpartlyasifinthesternHethenwantedtoseemepaddleinthesternSochangingpaddlesforhehadthelongerandbetteroneandturningendforendhesittingflatonthebottomandIonthecrossbarhebegantopaddleveryhardtryingtoturnthecanoelookingoverhisshoulderandlaughingbutfindingitinvainherelaxedhiseffortsthoughwestillspedalongamileortwoveryswiftlyHesaidthathehadnofaulttofindwithmypaddling in the stern but I complained that he did not paddleaccordingtohisowndirectionsinthebowsOpposite the Sunkhaze is themain boom of the Penobscot where the logsfromfaruptheriverarecollectedandassortedAswe drew near toOldtown I asked Polis if hewas not glad to get home

again but therewasno relenting to hiswildness andhe said ItmakesnodifferencetomewhereIamSuchistheIndianspretensealwaysWeapproachedtheIndianIslandthroughthenarrowstraitcalledCookHesaidIxpectwetakeinsomewaterthereriversohighmdashneverseeitsohighatthisseasonVeryroughwatertherebutshortswampsteamboatonceDontyou paddle till I tell you then you paddle right along Itwas a very shortrapidWhen we were in the midst of it he shouted paddle and we shotthroughwithouttakinginadropSoon after the Indian houses came in sight but I could not at first tellmycompanionwhichoftwoorthreelargewhiteoneswasourguidesHesaiditwastheonewithblindsWelandedoppositehisdoorataboutfourintheafternoonhavingcomesomeforty miles this day From the Piscataquis we had come remarkably andunaccountablyquickprobablyasfastasthestageortheboatthoughthelastdozenmileswasdeadwaterPoliswanted to sell ushis canoe said itwould last sevenor eightyears orwithcareperhapstenbutwewerenotreadytobuyitWe stopped for anhour at his housewheremycompanion shavedwithhisrazorwhichhepronouncedinverygoodconditionMrsPworeahatandhadasilverbroochonherbreastbutshewasnotintroducedtousThehousewasroomyandneatAlargenewmapofOldtownandtheIndianIslandhungonthe wall and a clock opposite to it Wishing to know when the cars leftOldtownPolisssonbroughtoneofthelastBangorpaperswhichIsawwasdirectedtoJosephPolisfromtheofficeThiswas the last thatIsawofJoePolisWetookthe last trainandreachedBangorthatnight

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IndianThesewereonceapowerful tribePoliticsareall theragewith themnowIeventhoughtthatarowofwigwamswithadanceofpowwowsandaprisonertorturedatthestakewouldbemorerespectablethanthisWelandedinMilfordandrodealongontheeastsideofthePenobscothavingamoreorlessconstantviewoftheriverandtheIndianislandsinitfortheyretainall theislandsasfarupasNicketowat themouthoftheEastBranchThey are generally well-timbered and are said to be better soil than theneighboring shoresThe river seemed shallowand rocky and interruptedbyrapids ripplingandgleaming in the sunWepausedamoment to seea fishhawkdive for a fish down straight as an arrow from a great height but hemissed his prey this time It was theHoulton road onwhichwewere nowtraveling over which some troops were marched once towards Mars HillthoughnottoMarsfieldasitprovedItisthemainalmosttheonlyroadinthesepartsasstraightandwellmadeandkeptinasgoodrepairasalmostanyyouwillfindanywhereEverywherewesawsignsofthegreatfreshetmdashthishouse standing awry and that where it was not founded but where it wasfoundatanyratethenextdayandthatotherwithawaterloggedlookasifitwere still airing and drying its basement and logs with everybodys marksuponthemandsometimesthemarksoftheirhavingservedasbridgesstrewnalong the road We crossed the Sunkhaze a summery Indian name theOlemmonPassadumkeagandotherstreamswhichmakeagreatershowonthemapthantheynowdidontheroadAtPassadumkeagwefoundanythingbutwhatthenameimpliesmdashearnestpoliticianstowitmdashwhiteonesImeanmdashon the alert to know how the electionwas likely to gomenwho talkedrapidlywithsubduedvoiceandasortoffactitiousearnestnessyoucouldnothelp believing hardlywaiting for an introduction one on each side of yourbuggy endeavoring to say much in little for they see you hold the whipimpatiently but always saying little in much Caucuses they have had itseemsandcaucuses theyare tohaveagainmdashvictoryanddefeatSomebodymaybeelectedsomebodymaynotOnemanatotalstrangerwhostoodbyourcarriageintheduskactuallyfrightenedthehorsewithhisasseverationsgrowingmoresolemnlypositiveastherewaslessinhimtobepositiveaboutSoPassadumkeagdidnotlookonthemapAtsundownleavingtheriverroadawhile for shortnesswewentbywayofEnfieldwherewe stopped for thenightThislikemostofthelocalitiesbearingnamesonthisroadwasaplacetonamewhich in themidstof theunnamedandunincorporatedwildernesswas to make a distinction without a difference it seemed to me HerehoweverInoticedquiteanorchardofhealthyandwell-grownappletreesinabearingstate itbeing theoldest settlershouse in this regionbutallnaturalfruitandcomparativelyworthlessforwantofagrafterAndsoitisgenerallylower down the river It would be a good speculation as well as a favorconferred on the settlers for aMassachusetts boy to go down there with a

trunkfullofchoicescionsandhisgraftingapparatusinthespringThenextmorningwedrovealongthroughahighandhillycountryinviewofCold-StreamPondabeautifullakefourorfivemileslongandcameintotheHoultonroadagainherecalledthemilitaryroadatLincolnforty-fivemilesfromBangorwherethereisquiteavillageforthiscountrymdashtheprincipaloneaboveOldtownLearningthattherewereseveralwigwamshereononeoftheIndianislandsweleftourhorseandwagonandwalkedthroughtheforesthalfamile to the river to procure a guide to themountain Itwas not till afterconsiderable search that we discovered their habitationsmdashsmall huts in aretired place where the scenery was unusually soft and beautiful and theshoreskirtedwithpleasantmeadowsandgracefulelmsWepaddledourselvesacrosstotheislandsideinacanoewhichwefoundontheshoreNearwherewelandedsatanIndiangirltenortwelveyearsoldonarockinthewaterinthe sun washing and humming or moaning a song meanwhile It was anaboriginal strain A salmon-spear made wholly of wood lay on the shoresuchastheymighthaveusedbeforewhitemencameIthadanelasticpieceofwoodfastenedtoonesideofitspointwhichslippedoverandcloseduponthefishsomewhatlikethecontrivanceforholdingabucketattheendofawell-poleAswewalkeduptothenearesthouseweweremetbyasallyofadozenwolfish-looking dogs which may have been lineal descendants from theancient Indian dogswhich the first voyageurs describe as theirwolves IsupposetheywereTheoccupantsoonappearedwithalongpoleinhishandwithwhichhebeatoff thedogswhileheparleyedwithusmdashastalwartbutdullandgreasy-lookingfellowwhotoldusinhissluggishwayinanswertoourquestionsasifitwerethefirstseriousbusinesshehadtodothatdaythattherewereIndiansgoinguprivermdashheandoneothermdashto-daybeforenoonAndwhowastheotherLouisNeptunewholivesinthenexthouseWellletus go over and see Louis together The same doggish reception and LouisNeptune makes his appearancemdasha small wiry man with puckered andwrinkled face yet he seemed the chief man of the two the same as IrememberedwhohadaccompaniedJacksontothemountainin37Thesamequestions were put to Louis and the same information obtained while theotherIndianstoodbyItappearedthattheyweregoingtostartbynoonwithtwo canoes to go up to Chesuncook to huntmoosemdashto be gone amonthWell Louis suppose you get to the Point (to the Five Islands just belowMattawamkeag)tocampwewalkonuptheWestBranchtomorrowmdashfourofusmdashandwaitforyouatthedamorthissideYouovertakeusto-morrowornextdayandtakeusintoyourcanoesWestopforyouyoustopforusWepay you for your trouble Ye replied Louis may be you carry someprovisionforallmdashsomeporkmdashsomebreadmdashandsopayHesaidMesuregetsomemooseandwhenIaskedifhethoughtPomolawouldletusgoupheansweredthatwemustplantonebottleofrumonthetophehadplanted

goodmanyandwhenhelookedagaintherumwasallgoneHehadbeenuptwo or three times he had planted lettermdashEnglish German French etcThesemenwereslightlycladinshirtandpantaloonslikelaborerswithusinwarmweatherTheydidnotinviteusintotheirhousesbutmetusoutsideSowelefttheIndiansthinkingourselvesluckytohavesecuredsuchguidesandcompanionsTherewereveryfewhousesalongtheroadyettheydidnotaltogetherfailasif the lawbywhichmen are dispersedover theglobewere a very stringentone and not to be resistedwith impunity or for slight reasons TherewereeventhegermsofoneortwovillagesjustbeginningtoexpandThebeautyofthe road itself was remarkable The various evergreensmany of which arerarewithusmdashdelicateandbeautifulspecimensofthelarcharbor-vitaeligball-spruce and fir-balsam froma few inches tomany feet in heightmdashlined itssides in some places like a long front yard springing up from the smoothgrass-plotswhichuninterruptedlyborder itandaremadefertilebyitswashwhile it was but a step on either hand to the grim untrodden wildernesswhosetangledlabyrinthoflivingfallenanddecayingtreesonlythedeerandmoose thebear andwolf caneasilypenetrateMoreperfect specimens thananyfront-yardplotcanshowgrewthere togracethepassageof theHoultonteamsAbout noonwe reached theMattawamkeag fifty-sixmiles fromBangor bythewaywehadcomeandputupata frequentedhousestillon theHoultonroadwhere theHoulton stage stopsHerewas a substantial covered bridgeovertheMattawamkeagbuiltIthinktheysaidsomeseventeenyearsbeforeWehaddinnermdashwherebythewayandevenatbreakfastaswellassupperatthepublic-housesonthisroadthefrontrankiscomposedofvariouskindsofsweetcakesinacontinuouslinefromoneendofthetabletotheotherIthinkImaysafelysaythattherewasarowoftenoradozenplatesofthiskindset before us two here To account for which they say that when thelumbererscomeoutofthewoodstheyhaveacravingforcakesandpiesandsuchsweetthingswhichtherearealmostunknownandthisisthesupplytosatisfy that demand The supply is always equal to the demand and thesehungrymen think agooddeal of getting theirmoneysworthNodoubt thebalanceofvictualsisrestoredbythetimetheyreachBangormdashMattawamkeagtakesofftherawedgeWelloverthisfrontrankIsayyoucomingfromthesweet cake side with a cheap philosophic indifference though it may behave to assaultwhat there is behindwhich I donot by anymeansmean toinsinuateisinsufficientinquantityorqualitytosupplythatotherdemandofmennotfromthewoodsbutfromthetownsforvenisonandstrongcountryfareAfterdinnerwestrolleddowntothePointformedbythejunctionofthetworiverswhichissaidtobethesceneofanancientbattlebetweentheEastern Indians and the Mohawks and searched there carefully for relics

thoughthemenatthebar-roomhadneverheardofsuchthingsbutwefoundonly some flakesof arrowhead stone somepointsof arrowheadsone smallleadenbulletandsomecoloredbeadsthelasttobereferredperhapstoearlyfur-traderdaysTheMattawamkeagthoughwidewasamereriversbedfullofrocksandshallowsatthistimesothatyoucouldcrossitalmostdry-shodinbootsandIcouldhardlybelievemycompanionwhenhetoldmethathehadbeen fifty or sixty miles up it in a batteau through distant and still uncutforests A batteau could hardly find a harbor now at its mouth Deer andcaribouorreindeeraretakenhereinthewinterinsightofthehouseBeforeourcompanionsarrivedwerodeonuptheHoultonroadsevenmilestoMolunkuswhere theAroostook road comes into it andwhere there is aspaciouspublichouseinthewoodscalledtheMolunkusHousekeptbyoneLibbeywhich lookedas if ithad itshall fordancingand formilitarydrillsTherewasnootherevidenceofmanbutthishugeshinglepalaceinthispartoftheworld but sometimes even this is filledwith travelers I looked off thepiazza round thecornerof thehouseup theAroostookroadonwhich therewas no clearing in sight There was a man just adventuring upon it thisevening in a rude original what youmay call Aroostook wagonmdashamereseatwithawagonswungunderitafewbagsonitandadogasleeptowatchthem He offered to carry a message for us to anybody in that countrycheerfullyIsuspectthatifyoushouldgototheendoftheworldyouwouldfindsomebodytheregoingfartherasifjuststartingforhomeatsundownandhavingalastwordbeforehedroveoffHeretoowasasmalltraderwhomIdidnotseeatfirstwhokeptastoremdashbutnogreatstorecertainlymdashinasmallboxoverthewaybehindtheMolunkussign-postItlookedlikethebalance-boxofapatenthay-scalesAsforhishousewecouldonlyconjecturewherethat was he may have been a boarder in theMolunkus House I saw himstanding in his shopdoormdashhis shopwas so small that if a traveler shouldmakedemonstrationsofenteringinhewouldhavetogooutbythebackwayandconferwithhiscustomerthroughawindowabouthisgoodsinthecellarormoreprobablybespokenandyetonthewayIshouldhavegoneinforIfelt a real impulse to trade if I had not stopped to consider what wouldbecomeofhimThedaybeforewehadwalked intoashopoveragainstaninnwherewestoppedthepunybeginningoftradewhichwouldgrowatlastinto a firm copartnership in the future townor citymdashindeed itwas alreadySomebody amp Co I forget who The woman came forward from thepenetraliaof theattachedhouse for SomebodyampCowas in theburningand she sold us percussion-caps canaleacutes and smooth and knew their pricesandqualitiesandwhichthehunterspreferredHerewasalittleofeverythingin a small compass to satisfy thewants and the ambition of thewoodsmdashastockselectedwithwhatpainsandcareandbroughthomeinthewagon-boxor a corner of the Houlton team but there seemed to me as usual a

preponderance of childrens toysmdashdogs to bark and cats to mew andtrumpetstoblowwherenativestherehardlyareyetAsifachildbornintotheMainewoodsamongthepineconesandcedarberriescouldnotdowithoutsuchasugar-manorskipping-jackastheyoungRothschildhasIthinkthattherewasnotmorethanonehouseontheroadtoMolunkusorforsevenmilesAtthatplacewegotoverthefenceintoanewfieldplantedwithpotatoeswherethelogswerestillburningbetweenthehillsandpullingupthe vines found good-sized potatoes nearly ripe growing like weeds andturnipsmixedwiththemThemodeofclearingandplantingistofellthetreesandburnoncewhatwillburnthencutthemupintosuitablelengthsrollintoheapsandburnagainthenwithahoeplantpotatoeswhereyoucancomeatthe ground between the stumps and charred logs for a first crop the ashessufficingformanureandnohoeingbeingnecessarythefirstyearInthefallcutrollandburnagainandsoontillthelandisclearedandsoonitisreadyforgrainandtobelaiddownLetthosetalkofpovertyandhardtimeswhowillinthetownsandcitiescannottheemigrantwhocanpayhisfaretoNewYorkorBostonpay fivedollarsmore togetheremdashIpaid threeall told formypassagefromBostontoBangortwohundredandfiftymilesmdashandbeasrich as he pleases where land virtually costs nothing and houses only thelaborofbuildingandhemaybeginlifeasAdamdidIfhewillstillrememberthe distinction of poor and rich let him bespeak him a narrower houseforthwithWhenwereturnedtotheMattawamkeagtheHoultonstagehadalreadyputupthereandaProvincemanwasbetrayinghisgreennesstotheYankeesbyhisquestionsWhyProvincemoneywontpasshereatparwhenStatesmoneyisgoodatFrederictonmdashthoughthisperhapswassensibleenoughFromwhatIsawthenitappearsthattheProvincemanwasnowtheonlyrealJonathanorrawcountrybumpkinleftsofarbehindbyhisenterprisingneighborsthathedidntknowenough toput aquestion to themNopeoplecan longcontinueprovincialincharacterwhohavethepropensityforpoliticsandwhittlingandrapid traveling which the Yankees have and who are leaving the mothercountrybehindin thevarietyof theirnotionsandinventionsThepossessionand exercise of practical talent merely are a sure and rapid means ofintellectualcultureandindependenceThe lasteditionofGreenleafsMapofMainehungon thewallhereandaswehadnopocket-mapwe resolved to trace amapof the lake country Sodipping awad of tow into the lampwe oiled a sheet of paper on the oiledtable-clothand ingoodfaith tracedwhatweafterwardsascertainedtobealabyrinth of errors carefully following the outlines of the imaginary lakeswhich the map contains The Map of the Public Lands of Maine andMassachusettsistheonlyoneIhaveseenthatatalldeservesthenameItwas

whilewewere engaged in this operation that our companions arrivedTheyhadseentheIndiansfireontheFiveIslandsandsoweconcludedthatallwasrightEarlythenextmorningwehadmountedourpacksandpreparedforatrampuptheWestBranchmycompanionhavingturnedhishorseouttopastureforaweekor tendays thinking thatabiteof freshgrassanda tasteof runningwater would do him as much good as backwoods fare and new countryinfluences hismasterLeaping over a fencewebegan to follow an obscuretrailup thenorthernbankof thePenobscotTherewasnowno road furthertheriverbeingtheonlyhighwayandbuthalfadozenloghutsconfinedtoitsbanks to be met with for thirty miles On either hand and beyond was awhollyuninhabitedwilderness stretching toCanadaNeitherhorsenorcownorvehicleofanykindhadeverpassedoverthisgroundthecattleandthefewbulkyarticleswhichtheloggersusebeinggotupinthewinterontheiceand down again before it breaks up The evergreenwoods had a decidedlysweetandbracingfragrancetheairwasasortofdiet-drinkandwewalkedonbuoyantly in Indian file stretchingour legsOccasionally therewas a smallopeningonthebankmadeforthepurposeoflog-rollingwherewegotasightoftherivermdashalwaysarockyandripplingstreamTheroaroftherapidsthenoteofawhistlerduckontheriverofthejayandchickadeearoundusandofthepigeonwoodpeckerintheopeningswerethesoundsthatweheardThiswaswhatyoumightcallabran-newcountrytheonlyroadswereofNaturesmaking and the few houses were camps Here then one could no longeraccuseinstitutionsandsocietybutmustfrontthetruesourceofevilThere are three classes of inhabitants who either frequent or inhabit thecountrywhichwehadnowentered first the loggerswho forapartof theyear thewinter and spring are far themost numerous but in the summerexceptafewexplorersfortimbercompletelydesertitsecondthefewsettlersIhavenamedtheonlypermanentinhabitantswholiveonthevergeofitandhelp raise supplies for the former third the hunters mostly Indians whorangeoveritintheirseasonAttheendofthreemileswecametotheMattaseunkstreamandmillwheretherewasevenarudewoodenrailroadrunningdowntothePenobscotthelastrailroadweweretoseeWecrossedonetractonthebankoftheriverofmorethan a hundred acres of heavy timberwhich had just been felled and burntoverandwasstillsmokingOurtraillaythroughthemidstofitandwaswell-nigh blotted out The trees lay at full length four or five feet deep andcrossingeachotherinalldirectionsallblackascharcoalbutperfectlysoundwithin stillgoodfor fuelor for timber soon theywouldbecut into lengthsand burnt againHerewere thousands of cords enough to keep the poor ofBoston andNewYork amply warm for a winter which only cumbered the

ground and were in the settlers way And the whole of that solid andinterminable forest is doomed to be gradually devoured thus by fire likeshavingsandnomanbewarmedbyitAtCrockerslog-hutatthemouthofSalmon River seven miles from the Point one of the party commenceddistributingastoreofsmallcentpicture-booksamongthechildren to teachthem to read and also newspapersmore or less recent among the parentsthan which nothing can bemore acceptable to a backwoods people It wasreally an important item in our outfit and at times the only currency thatwould circulate Iwalked throughSalmonRiverwithmy shoeson it beinglowwaterbutnotwithoutwettingmyfeetAfewmiles fartherwecame toMarmHowardsattheendofanextensiveclearingwherethereweretwoorthreeloghutsinsightatonceoneontheoppositesideoftheriverandafew graves even surrounded by a wooden paling where already the rudeforefathersofahamletlieandathousandyearshenceperchancesomepoetwillwritehisElergyinaCountryChurchyardTheVillageHampdensthemute inglorious Miltons and Cromwells guiltless of their countrysbloodwereyetunbornPerchanceinthiswildspottherewillbelaidSomeheartoncepregnantwithcelestialfireHandsthattherodofempiremighthaveswayedOrwakedtoecstasythelivinglyreThenexthousewasFiskstenmilesfromthePointatthemouthoftheEastBranchopposite to the islandNicketowor theForks the last of the Indianislands I am particular to give the names of the settlers and the distancessinceeveryloghutinthesewoodsisapublichouseandsuchinformationisofno little consequence to thosewhomayhaveoccasion to travel thiswayOurcourseherecrossedthePenobscotandfollowedthesouthernbankOneof the party who entered the house in search of some one to set us overreported a very neat dwelling with plenty of books and a new wife justimportedfromBostonwhollynewtothewoodsWefoundtheEastBranchalargeandrapidstreamatitsmouthandmuchdeeperthanitappearedHavingwith somedifficultydiscovered the trail againwekeptup the south sideoftheWestBranchormainriverpassingbysomerapidscalledRock-Ebeemethe roar of which we heard through the woods and shortly after in thethickest of the wood some empty loggers camps still new which wereoccupied thepreviouswinterThoughwesawa fewmoreafterwards IwillmakeoneaccountserveforallTheseweresuchhousesas the lumberersofMainespend thewinter in in thewildernessTherewere thecampsand thehovels for the cattle hardly distinguishable except that the latter had nochimneyThesecampswereabout twenty feet longby fifteenwidebuilt oflogsmdashhemlock cedar spruce or yellow birchmdashone kind alone or all

togetherwith the bark on two or three large ones first one directly aboveanotherandnotched togetherat theends to theheightof threeor four feetthenofsmallerlogsrestingupontransverseonesattheendseachofthelastsuccessively shorter than the other to form the roof The chimney was anoblongsquareholeinthemiddlethreeorfourfeetindiameterwithafenceoflogsashighas theridgeThe intersticeswerefilledwithmossand theroofwas shingled with long and handsome splints of cedar or spruce or pineriftedwithasledgeandcleaverThefireplacethemostimportantplaceofallwasinshapeandsizelikethechimneyanddirectlyunderitdefinedbyalogfenceorfenderonthegroundandaheapofashesafootortwodeepwithinwithsolidbenchesofsplit logs runninground itHere thefireusuallymeltsthesnowanddriestherainbeforeitcandescendtoquenchitThefadedbedsofarbor-vitaelig leavesextendedunder theeavesoneitherhandTherewas theplace for thewater-pail pork-barrel andwash-basin and generally a dingypackofcardsleftonalogUsuallyagooddealofwhittlingwasexpendedonthelatchwhichwasmadeofwoodintheformofanirononeThesehousesaremadecomfortablebythehugefireswhichcanbeaffordednightanddayUsually thesceneryabout themisdrearandsavageenoughandtheloggerscamp is as completely in the woods as a fungus at the foot of a pine in aswampnooutlookbuttotheskyoverheadnomoreclearingthanismadebycuttingdownthetreesofwhichitisbuiltandthosewhicharenecessaryforfuelIfonlyitbewellshelteredandconvenienttohisworkandnearaspringhewastesnothoughtontheprospectTheyareveryproperforesthousesthestemsof the trees collected together andpileduparoundaman tokeepoutwindandrainmdashmadeoflivinggreenlogshangingwithmossandlichenandwith thecurls and fringesof theyellowbirchbark anddrippingwith resinfresh andmoist and redolent of swampy odorswith that sort of vigor andperennialness even about them that toadstools suggest The loggers fareconsists of tea molasses flour pork (sometimes beef) and beans A greatproportion of the beans raised inMassachusetts find their market here OnexpeditionsitisonlyhardbreadandporkoftenrawsliceuponslicewithteaorwaterasthecasemaybeThe primitive wood is always and everywhere damp and mossy so that ItraveledconstantlywiththeimpressionthatIwasinaswampandonlywhenitwasremarkedthatthisorthattractjudgingfromthequalityofthetimberonitwouldmakeaprofitableclearingwasIremindedthatifthesunwereletinitwouldmakeadryfieldlikethefewIhadseenatonceThebestshodforthemostparttravelwithwetfeetIfthegroundwassowetandspongyatthisthe dryest part of a dry season what must it be in the spring The woodshereaboutsaboundedinbeechandyellowbirchofwhichlastthereweresomevery large specimens also spruce cedar fir andhemlockbutwe sawonlythe stumpsof thewhitepinehere someof themofgreat size thesehaving

been already culled out being the only treemuch sought after even as lowdownas thisOnlya littlespruceandhemlockbesidehadbeen loggedhereThe Eastern wood which is sold for fuel in Massachusetts all comes frombelowBangorItwasthepinealonechieflythewhitepinethathadtemptedanybutthehuntertoprecedeusonthisrouteWaites farm thirteen miles from the Point is an extensive and elevatedclearingfromwhichwegotafineviewoftheriverripplingandgleamingfarbeneathusMycompanionshadformerlyhadagoodviewofKtaadnandtheothermountainsherebutto-dayitwassosmokythatwecouldseenothingofthem We could overlook an immense country of uninterrupted foreststretching away up the East Branch toward Canada on the north andnorthwest and toward the Aroostook valley on the northeast and imaginewhatwildlifewasstirringinitsmidstHerewasquiteafieldofcornforthisregionwhosepeculiardryscentweperceivedathirdofamileoffbeforewesawitEighteenmiles fromthePointbroughtus insightofMcCauslinsorUncleGeorges as hewas familiarly called bymy companions towhomhewaswellknownwhereweintendedtobreakourlongfastHishousewasinthemidstofanextensiveclearingorintervaleatthemouthoftheLittleSchoodicRiveron theoppositeornorthbankof thePenobscotSowecollectedonapointoftheshorethatwemightbeseenandfiredourgunasasignalwhichbroughtouthisdogs forthwith and thereafter theirmasterwho indue timetookusacrossinhisbatteauThisclearingwasboundedabruptlyonallsidesbuttheriverbythenakedstemsoftheforestasifyouweretocutonlyafewfeet square in the midst of a thousand acres of mowing and set down athimble thereinHehadawholeheavenandhorizon tohimselfand thesunseemed to be journeying over his clearing only the livelong day Here weconcluded to spend the night and wait for the Indians as there was nostopping-placesoconvenientaboveHehadseennoIndianspassandthisdidnotoftenhappenwithouthisknowledgeHethoughtthathisdogssometimesgavenoticeoftheapproachofIndianshalfanhourbeforetheyarrivedMcCauslinwasaKennebecmanofScotchdescentwhohadbeenawatermantwenty-two years and had driven on the lakes and headwaters of thePenobscotfiveorsixspringsinsuccessionbutwasnowsettledheretoraisesuppliesforthelumberersandforhimselfHeentertainedusadayortwowithtrueScotchhospitalityandwouldacceptnorecompenseforitAmanofadrywitandshrewdnessandageneralintelligencewhichIhadnotlookedforinthe backwoods In fact the deeper you penetrate into thewoods themoreintelligentandinonesenselesscountrifieddoyoufindtheinhabitantsforalways the pioneer has been a traveler and to some extent a man of theworld and as the distanceswithwhich he is familiar are greater so is his

informationmoregeneralandfarreachingthanthevillagersIfIweretolookforanarrowuninformedandcountrifiedmindasopposedtotheintelligenceandrefinementwhicharethoughttoemanatefromcitiesitwouldbeamongtherustyinhabitantsofanold-settledcountryonfarmsallrunoutandgonetoseedwithlife-everlastinginthetownsaboutBostonevenonthehigh-roadinConcordandnotinthebackwoodsofMaineSupperwasgotbeforeoureyes in theamplekitchenbyafirewhichwouldhaveroastedanoxmanywhole logs fourfeet longwereconsumedtoboilour tea-kettlemdashbirchorbeechormaple thesamesummerandwinterandthedishesweresoonsmokingonthetablelatethearm-chairagainstthewallfromwhichoneof thepartywasexpelledThearmsof thechairformedtheframe on which the table rested and when the round top was turned upagainstthewallitformedthebackofthechairandwasnomoreinthewaythanthewall itselfThiswenoticedwastheprevailingfashionintheseloghousesinordertoeconomizeinroomTherewerepiping-hotwheatencakestheflourhavingbeenbroughtuptheriverinbatteauxmdashnoIndianbreadfortheupperpartofMaineitwillberememberedisawheatcountrymdashandhameggs and potatoes andmilk and cheese the produce of the farm and alsoshad and salmon tea sweetened with molasses and sweet cakes incontradistinction to the hot cakes not sweetened the one white the otheryellowtowindupwithSuchwefoundwastheprevailingfareordinaryandextraordinary along this riverMountain cranberries (VacciniumVitis-Idaeliga)stewed and sweetened were the common dessert Everything here was inprofusion and the best of its kind Butter was in such plenty that it wascommonlyusedbeforeitwassaltedtogreasebootswithIn the night we were entertained by the sound of rain-drops on the cedarsplintswhichcovered theroofandawakedthenextmorningwithadroportwoinoureyes Ithadset inforastormandwemadeupourmindsnot toforsakesuchcomfortablequarterswiththisprospectbutwaitforIndiansandfair weather It rained and drizzled and gleamed by turns the livelong dayWhatwedidtherehowwekilledthetimewouldperhapsbeidletotellhowmanytimeswebutteredourbootsandhowoftenadrowsyonewasseen tosidleoff to thebedroomWhen itheldup I strolledupanddown thebankandgatheredtheharebellandcedarberrieswhichgrewthereorelsewetriedbyturnsthelong-handledaxeonthelogsbeforethedoorTheaxe-helvesherewere made to chop standing on the logmdasha primitive log of coursemdashandwerethereforenearlyafootlongerthanwithusOnewhilewewalkedoverthe farm and visited his well-filled barns withMcCauslin There were oneothermanandtwowomenonlyhereHekepthorsescowsoxenandsheepIthinkhe said thathewas the first tobringaplowanda cowso far andhemighthaveaddedthelastwithonlytwoexceptionsThepotato-rothadfoundhimout here too the previous year and got half or two thirds of his crop

though the seedwas of his own raising Oats grass and potatoeswere hisstaplesbutheraisedalsoafewcarrotsandturnipsandalittlecornforthehens for this was all that he dared risk for fear that it would not ripenMelons squashes sweet corn beans tomatoes andmany other vegetablescouldnotberipenedthereThe very few settlers along this stream were obviously tempted by thecheapnessofthelandmainlyWhenIaskedMcCauslinwhymoresettlersdidnotcomeinheansweredthatonereasonwastheycouldnotbuythelanditbelonged to individuals or companieswhowere afraid that theirwild landswouldbesettledandsoincorporatedintotownsandtheybetaxedforthembut to settlingon theStates land therewasno suchhindranceForhis ownparthewantednoneighborsmdashhedidntwish to seeany roadbyhishouseNeighborseventhebestwereatroubleandexpenseespeciallyonthescoreofcattleandfencesTheymightliveacrosstheriverperhapsbutnotonthesamesideThechickensherewereprotectedby thedogsAsMcCauslinsaidTheoldonetookitupfirstandshetaughtthepupandnowtheyhadgotitintotheirheadsthatitwouldntdotohaveanythingofthebirdkindonthepremisesAhawk hovering over was not allowed to alight but barked off by the dogscirclingunderneath and a pigeon or a yellow-hammer as they called thepigeonwoodpeckeronadead limborstumpwas instantlyexpelled Itwasthemainbusinessof their day andkept themconstantly comingandgoingOnewouldrushoutofthehouseontheleastalarmgivenbytheotherWhenitrainedhardestwereturnedtothehouseandtookdownatractfromthe shelfTherewas the Wandering Jew cheap edition and fineprint theCriminalCalendarandParishsGeographyandflashnovelstwoorthreeUnderthepressureofcircumstanceswereadalittleintheseWithsuchaidthe press is not so feeble an engine after all This housewhichwas a fairspecimen of those on this river was built of huge logs which peeped outeverywhere andwerechinkedwithclayandmoss It contained fouror fiveroomsTherewerenosawedboardsorshinglesorclapboardsaboutitandscarcelyanytoolbuttheaxehadbeenusedinitsconstructionThepartitionswere made of long clapboard-like splints of spruce or cedar turned to adelicatesalmon-colorbythesmokeTheroofandsideswerecoveredwiththesame instead of shingles and clapboards and some of a much thicker andlargersizewereusedforthefloorThesewereallsostraightandsmooththattheyansweredthepurposeadmirablyandacarelessobserverwouldnothavesuspectedthattheywerenotsawedandplanedThechimneyandhearthwereofvastsizeandmadeofstoneThebroomwasafewtwigsofarbor-vitaeligtiedtoastickandapolewassuspendedoverthehearthclosetotheceilingtodrystockingsandclothesonInoticedthatthefloorwasfullofsmalldingyholes

asifmadewithagimletbutwhichwereinfactmadebythespikesnearlyaninchlongwhichthelumbererswearintheirbootstopreventtheirslippingonwetlogsJustaboveMcCauslinsthereisarockyrapidwherelogsjaminthespringandmanydriversaretherecollectedwhofrequenthishouseforsuppliestheseweretheirtrackswhichIsawAtsundownMcCauslinpointedawayovertheforestacrosstherivertosignsoffairweatheramidthecloudsmdashsomeeveningrednessthereForeventherethe points of compass held and there was a quarter of the heavensappropriatedtosunriseandanothertosunsetThe next morning the weather proving fair enough for our purpose wepreparedtostartandtheIndianshavingfaileduspersuadedMcCauslinwhowasnotunwillingtorevisitthescenesofhisdrivingtoaccompanyusintheirstead intending to engage one other boatman on thewayA strip of cottonclothforatentacoupleofblanketswhichwouldsufficeforthewholepartyfifteenpoundsofhardbreadtenpoundsofclearporkandalittleteamadeup Uncle Georges pack The last three articles were calculated to beprovisionenoughforsixmenforaweekwithwhatwemightpickupAtea-kettle a frying-pan and an axe to be obtained at the last house wouldcompleteouroutfitWeweresoonoutofMcCauslinsclearingandintheevergreenwoodsagainTheobscuretrailmadebythetwosettlersabovewhicheventhewoodmanissometimes puzzled to discern ere long crossed a narrow open strip in thewoods overrun with weeds called the Burnt Land where a fire had ragedformerlystretchingnorthwardnineor tenmiles toMillinocketLakeAt theendof threemileswereachedShadPondorNoliseemackanexpansionoftheriverHodgetheAssistantStateGeologistwhopassedthroughthisonthe25th of June 1837 says We pushed our boat through an acre ormore ofbuck-beans which had taken root at the bottom and bloomed above thesurfaceinthegreatestprofusionandbeautyThomasFowlershouseisfourmiles from McCauslins on the shore of the pond at the mouth of theMillinocket River and eightmiles from the lake of the same name on thelatter stream This lake affords a more direct course to Ktaadn but wepreferred to follow the Penobscot and the Pamadumcook lakes FowlerwasjustcompletinganewloghutandwassawingoutawindowthroughthelogsnearlytwofeetthickwhenwearrivedHehadbeguntopaperhishousewithsprucebark turned insideoutwhichhadagoodeffect andwas inkeepingwiththecircumstancesInsteadofwaterwegothereadraughtofbeerwhichitwasallowedwouldbebetterclearandthinbutstrongandstringentasthecedarsapItwasasifwesuckedattheveryteatsofNaturespine-cladbosominthesepartsmdashthesapofallMillinocketbotanycommingledmdashthetopmostmost fantastic and spiciest sprays of the primitive wood and whatever

invigoratingandstringentgumoressenceitaffordedsteepedanddissolvedinitmdashalumberersdrinkwhichwouldacclimateandnaturalizeamanatoncemdashwhichwouldmakehimseegreenandifhesleptdreamthatheheardthewindsoughamongthepinesHerewasafifeprayingtobeplayedonthroughwhichwebreathedafewtunefulstrainsmdashbroughthithertotamewildbeastsAs we stood upon the pile of chips by the door fish hawks were sailingoverheadandhereoverShadPondmightdailybewitnessedthetyrannyofthebaldeagleoverthatbirdTompointedawayoverthelaketoabaldeaglesnestwhichwasplainlyvisiblemorethanamileoffonapinehighabovethesurroundingforestandwasfrequentedfromyeartoyearbythesamepairandheldsacredbyhimTherewerethesetwohousesonlytherehislowhutandtheeaglesairycart-loadoffagotsThomasFowlertoowaspersuadedtojoinusfortwomenwerenecessarytomanagethebatteauwhichwassoontobeourcarriageandthesemenneededtobecoolandskillfulforthenavigationofthePenobscotTomspackwassoonmadeforhehadnotfartolookforhiswatermans boots and a red flannel shirt This is the favorite color withlumbermenandredflannelisreputedtopossesssomemysteriousvirtuestobe most healthful and convenient in respect to perspiration In every gangtherewillbea largeproportionof redbirdsWe tookhereapoorand leakybatteauandbegantopoleuptheMillinockettwomilestotheelderFowlersinordertoavoidtheGrandFallsofthePenobscotintendingtoexchangeourbatteau there for a better The Millinocket is a small shallow and sandystreamfullofwhatItooktobelamprey-eelsorsuckersnestsandlinedwithmusquash-cabinsbut free from rapids according toFowler exceptingat itsoutletfromthelakeHewasatthistimeengagedincuttingthenativegrassmdashrush-grass andmeadow-clover as he called itmdashon themeadows and smalllowislandsof thisstreamWenoticedflattenedplaces in thegrassoneitherside where he said a moose had laid down the night before adding thattherewerethousandsinthesemeadowsOldFowlersontheMillinocketsixmilesfromMcCauslinsandtwenty-fourfrom thePoint is the lasthouseGibsonson theSowadnehunk is theonlyclearing above but that had proved a failure and was long since desertedFowleristheoldestinhabitantofthesewoodsHeformerlylivedafewmilesfrom here on the south side of theWest Branch where he built his housesixteenyearsago thefirsthousebuiltabove theFiveIslandsHereournewbatteauwastobecarriedoverthefirstportageoftwomilesroundtheGrandFalls of the Penobscot on a horse-sled made of saplings to jump thenumerousrocksinthewaybutwehadtowaitacoupleofhoursforthemtocatchthehorseswhichwerepasturedatadistanceamidthestumpsandhadwanderedstillfartheroffThelastofthesalmonforthisseasonhadjustbeencaughtandwerestillfreshinpicklefromwhichenoughwasextractedtofillouremptykettleandsograduateourintroductiontosimplerforestfareThe

week before they had lost nine sheep here out of their first flock by thewolvesThe surviving sheep came round the house and seemed frightenedwhichinducedthemtogoandlookfortherestwhentheyfoundsevendeadandlaceratedandtwostillaliveTheselasttheycarriedtothehouseandasMrsFowlersaidtheyweremerelyscratchedinthethroatandhadnomorevisiblewoundthanwouldbeproducedbytheprickofapinSheshearedoffthe wool from their throats andwashed them and put on some salve andturnedthemoutbut inafewmomentstheyweremissingandhadnotbeenfoundsinceInfacttheywereallpoisonedandthosethatwerefoundswelledup at once so that they saved neither skin nor wool This realized the oldfables of the wolves and the sheep and convinced me that that ancienthostility still existedVerily the shepherd-boydidnot need to sound a falsealarm this time There were steel traps by the door of various sizes forwolves otter and bears with large claws instead of teeth to catch in theirsinewsWolvesarefrequentlykilledwithpoisonedbaitAt length afterwe had dined here on the usual backwoods fare the horsesarrivedandwehauledourbatteauoutofthewaterandlashedittoitswickercarriageand throwing inourpackswalkedonbefore leaving theboatmenanddriverwhowasTomsbrothertomanagetheconcernTheroutewhichledthroughthewildpasturewherethesheepwerekilledwasinsomeplacestheroughestevertraveledbyhorsesoverrockyhillswherethesledbouncedandslidalonglikeavesselpitchinginastormandonemanwasasnecessarytostandatthesterntopreventtheboatfrombeingwreckedasahelmsmaninthe roughest sea The philosophy of our progress was something like thiswhentherunnersstruckarockthreeorfourfeethighthesledbouncedbackandupwardsatthesametimebutasthehorsesneverceasedpullingitcamedown on the top of the rock and so we got over This portage probablyfollowedthetrailofanancientIndiancarryroundthesefallsBytwooclockwewhohadwalkedonbeforereachedtheriverabovethefallsnotfarfromthe outlet ofQuakishLake andwaited for the batteau to comeupWehadbeenherebutashorttimewhenathunder-showerwasseencomingupfromthewestoverthestillinvisiblelakesandthatpleasantwildernesswhichweweresoeagertobecomeacquaintedwithandsoontheheavydropsbegantopatterontheleavesaroundusIhadjustselectedtheprostratetrunkofahugepinefiveorsixfeetindiameterandwascrawlingunderitwhenluckilytheboatarrivedItwouldhaveamusedashelteredmantowitnessthemannerinwhichitwasunlashedandwhirledoverwhilethefirstwaterspoutburstuponusItwasnosoonerinthehandsoftheeagercompanythanitwasabandonedtothefirstrevolutionaryimpulseandtogravity toadjust itandtheymighthavebeen seenall stooping to its shelter andwrigglingunder like somanyeels before itwas fairlydepositedon thegroundWhen allwereunderwepropped up the lee side and busied ourselves therewhittling thole-pins for

rowingwhenweshouldreach the lakesandmadethewoodsringbetweentheclapsofthunderwithsuchboat-songsaswecouldrememberThehorsesstood sleek and shining with the rain all drooping and crestfallen whiledelugeafterdelugewashedoverusbutthebottomofaboatmaybereliedonforatightroofAtlengthaftertwohoursdelayatthisplaceastreakoffairweatherappeared in thenorthwestwhitherourcoursenow laypromisingasereneeveningforourvoyageandthedriverreturnedwithhishorseswhilewemadehastetolaunchourboatandcommenceourvoyageingoodearnestThereweresixofus including the twoboatmenWithourpacksheapedupnear the bows and ourselves disposed as baggage to trim the boat withinstructionsnot tomoveincaseweshouldstrikearockmorethansomanybarrels of porkwe pushed out into the first rapid a slight specimen of thestreamwehad tonavigateWithUncleGeorge in the stern andTom in thebowseachusingasprucepoleabouttwelvefeetlongpointedwithironandpolingonthesamesideweshotuptherapidslikeasalmonthewaterrushingand roaring around so that only a practiced eye could distinguish a safecourse or tell whatwas deepwater andwhat rocks frequently grazing thelatterononeorbothsideswithahundredasnarrowescapesasevertheArgohadinpassingthroughtheSymplegadesIwhohadhadsomeexperienceinboatinghadneverexperiencedanyhalfsoexhilaratingbeforeWewereluckytohaveexchangedourIndianswhomwedidnotknowforthesemenwhotogetherwithTomsbrotherwerereputedthebestboatmenontheriverandwere at once indispensable pilots and pleasant companions The canoe issmallermoreeasilyupsetandsoonerwornoutandtheIndianissaidnottobesoskillfulinthemanagementofthebatteauHeisforthemostpartlesstobe reliedon andmoredisposed to sulks andwhimsTheutmost familiaritywith dead streams or with the ocean would not prepare a man for thispeculiarnavigationandthemostskillfulboatmananywhereelsewouldherebeobligedtotakeouthisboatandcarryroundahundredtimesstillwithgreatrisk as well as delay where the practiced batteau-man poles up withcomparative ease and safety The hardy voyageur pushes with incredibleperseveranceandsuccessquiteuptothefootofthefallsandthenonlycarriesroundsomeperpendicularledgeandlaunchesagaininThetorrentssmoothnessereitdashbelowtostrugglewiththeboilingrapidsaboveTheIndianssaythattheriveronceranbothwaysonehalfupandtheotherdownbutthatsincethewhitemancame it all runs down and now they must laboriously pole their canoesagainstthestreamandcarrythemovernumerousportagesInthesummerallstoresmdashthegrindstoneandtheplowofthepioneerflourporkandutensilsforthe explorermdashmustbe conveyedup the river inbatteaux andmanya cargoandmanyaboatmanislostinthesewatersInthewinterhoweverwhichis

very equable and long the ice is the great highway and the loggers teampenetrates toChesuncookLake and stillhigherup even twohundredmilesaboveBangor Imagine the solitary sled-track running farup into the snowyand evergreen wilderness hemmed in closely for a hundred miles by theforest and again stretching straight across the broad surfaces of concealedlakesWeweresooninthesmoothwateroftheQuakishLakeandtookourturnsatrowingandpaddlingacrossitItisasmallirregularbuthandsomelakeshutinonallsidesbytheforestandshowingnotracesofmanbutsomelowboominadistantcovereservedforspringuseThespruceandcedaronitsshoreshungwith gray lichens looked at a distance like the ghosts of treesDuckswere sailing here and there on its surface and a solitary loon like amorelivingwavemdashavitalspoton the lakessurfacemdashlaughedandfrolickedandshoweditsstraightlegforouramusementJoeMerryMountainappearedinthenorthwestasifitwerelookingdownonthislakeespeciallyandwehadourfirstbutapartialviewofKtaadnitssummitveiledincloudslikeadarkisthmusinthatquarterconnectingtheheavenswiththeearthAftertwomilesof smooth rowing across this lake we found ourselves in the river againwhich was a continuous rapid for one mile to the dam requiring all thestrengthandskillofourboatmentopoleupitThis dam is a quite important and expensivework for this countrywhithercattleandhorsescannotpenetrate in thesummer raising thewholeriver tenfeet and flooding as they said some sixty square miles by means of theinnumerable lakes with which the river connects It is a lofty and solidstructure with sloping piers some distance above made of frames of logsfilled with stones to break the ice Here every log pays toll as it passesthroughthesluicesWe filed into the rude loggers campat thisplace suchas IhavedescribedwithoutceremonyandthecookatthatmomentthesoleoccupantatoncesetaboutpreparingteaforhisvisitorsHisfireplacewhichtherainhadconvertedinto a mud-puddle was soon blazing again and we sat down on the logbenchesaroundittodryusOnthewell-flattenedandsomewhatfadedbedsofarbor-vitaelig leaveswhichstretchedoneitherhandunder theeavesbehinduslay an odd leaf of the Bible some genealogical chapter out of the OldTestament and half buried by the leaves we found Emersons Address onWest India Emancipationwhich had been left here formerly by one of ourcompanyandhadmadetwoconvertstotheLibertypartyhereasIwastoldalso an odd number of theWestminster Review for 1834 and a pamphletentitled History of the Erection of theMonument on the Grave ofMyronHollyThiswas the readableor readingmatter in a lumberers camp in theMainewoodsthirtymilesfromaroadwhichwouldbegivenuptothebears

in a fortnight These things were well thumbed and soiled This gang washeaded by one John Morrison a good specimen of a Yankee and wasnecessarily composed ofmen not bred to the business of dam-building butwho were jacks-at-all-trades handy with the axe and other simpleimplements andwell skilled inwoodandwatercraftWehadhotcakes forour supperevenherewhiteas snowballsbutwithoutbutter and thenever-failing sweet cakes with which we filled our pockets foreseeing that weshould not soonmeetwith the like again Such delicate puffballs seemed asingulardietforbackwoodsmenTherewasalsoteawithoutmilksweetenedwithmolassesAndsoexchangingawordwithJohnMorrisonandhisgangwhen we had returned to the shore and also exchanging our batteau for abetter stillwemadehaste to improve the little daylight that remainedThiscamp exactly twenty-ninemiles fromMattawamkeag Point by thewaywehad come and about one hundred from Bangor by the river was the lasthumanhabitationofanykindinthisdirectionBeyondtherewasnotrailandthe river and lakes by batteaux and canoes was considered the onlypracticablerouteWewereaboutthirtymilesbytheriverfromthesummitofKtaadn which was in sight though not more than twenty perhaps in astraightlineIt being about the full of the moon and a warm and pleasant evening wedecidedtorowfivemilesbymoonlight totheheadof theNorthTwinLakelest thewindshouldriseonthemorrowAfteronemileofriverorwhattheboatmen call thoroughfaremdashfor the river becomes at length only theconnecting link between the lakesmdashand some slight rapid which had beenmostlymadesmoothwaterbythedamweenteredtheNorthTwinLakejustafter sundown and steered across for the river thoroughfare four milesdistant This is a noble sheet of water where one may get the impressionwhichanewcountryandalakeofthewoodsarefittedtocreateTherewasthesmokeofno loghutnorcampofanykind togreetusstill lesswasanyloverofnatureormusingtravelerwatchingourbatteaufromthedistanthillsnoteventheIndianhunterwasthereforherarelyclimbsthembuthugstheriverlikeourselvesNofacewelcomedusbutthefinefantasticspraysoffreeandhappyevergreen treeswavingoneaboveanother in theirancienthomeAtfirsttheredcloudshungoverthewesternshoreasgorgeouslyasifoveracity and the lake lay open to the light with even a civilized aspect as ifexpectingtradeandcommerceandtownsandvillasWecoulddistinguishtheinlet to theSouthTwinwhich is said tobe the largerwhere the shorewasmisty and blue and it was worth the while to look thus through a narrowopeningacrosstheentireexpanseofaconcealedlaketoitsownyetmoredimanddistantshoreTheshoresrosegentlytorangesoflowhillscoveredwithforestsand though in fact themostvaluablewhite-pine timberevenaboutthis lake hadbeen culledout thiswouldneverhavebeen suspectedby the

voyagerTheimpressionwhichindeedcorrespondedwiththefactwasasifwewereuponahightable-landbetweentheStatesandCanadathenorthernsideofwhich isdrainedby theSt JohnandChaudiegravere the southernby thePenobscotandKennebecTherewasnoboldmountainousshoreaswemighthaveexpectedbutonlyisolatedhillsandmountainsrisinghereandtherefromtheplateauThecountryisanarchipelagooflakesmdashthelake-countryofNewEnglandTheirlevelsvarybutafewfeetandtheboatmenbyshortportagesorbynoneatallpasseasilyfromonetoanotherTheysaythatatveryhighwaterthePenobscotandtheKennebecflowintoeachotheroratanyratethatyoumay liewith your face in the one and your toes in the other Even thePenobscotandStJohnhavebeenconnectedbyacanalsothatthelumberoftheAllegashinsteadofgoingdowntheStJohncomesdownthePenobscotand the Indians tradition that the Penobscot once ran both ways for hisconvenienceisinonesensepartiallyrealizedto-dayNoneofourpartybutMcCauslinhadbeenabove this lakesowe trusted tohimtopilotusandwecouldnotbutconfesstheimportanceofapilotonthesewatersWhileitisriveryouwillnoteasilyforgetwhichwayisup-streambutwhenyouentera lake the river iscompletely lost andyouscan thedistantshores invain to findwhere it comes inAstranger is for the timeat leastlostandmustsetaboutavoyageofdiscoveryfirstofalltofindtheriverTofollowthewindingsoftheshorewhenthelakeistenmilesorevenmoreinlengthandofanirregularitywhichwillnotsoonbemappedisawearisomevoyageandwillspendhistimeandhisprovisionsTheytellastoryofagangofexperiencedwoodmensenttoalocationonthisstreamwhowerethuslostin thewilderness of lakes They cut theirway through thickets and carriedtheirbaggageandtheirboatsoverfromlaketolakesometimesseveralmilesThey carried intoMillinocket Lake which is on another stream and is tenmiles square and contains a hundred islands They explored its shoresthoroughlyand thencarried intoanother andanother and itwasaweekoftoilandanxietybefore they found thePenobscotRiveragainand then theirprovisionswereexhaustedandtheywereobligedtoreturnWhileUncleGeorgesteeredforasmallislandneartheheadofthelakenowjust visible like a speck on the water we rowed by turns swiftly over itssurfacesingingsuchboatsongsaswecouldrememberTheshoresseemedatanindefinitedistanceinthemoonlightOccasionallywepausedinoursingingandrestedonouroarswhilewelistenedtohearifthewolveshowledforthisis a common serenade and my companions affirmed that it was the mostdismal and unearthly of sounds butwe heard none this time Ifwe did nothearhoweverwedidlistennotwithoutareasonableexpectationthatatleastI have to tellmdashonly some utterly uncivilized big-throated owl hooted loudanddismallyinthedrearandboughywildernessplainlynotnervousabouthissolitarylifenorafraidtoheartheechoesofhisvoicethereWeremembered

alsothatpossiblymooseweresilentlywatchingusfromthedistantcovesorsomesurlybearortimidcaribouhadbeenstartledbyoursingingItwaswithnewemphasisthatwesangtheretheCanadianboatsongmdashRowbrothersrowthestreamrunsfastTherapidsarenearandthedaylightspastwhich describes precisely our own adventure and was inspired by theexperienceof a similar kindof lifemdashfor the rapidswere ever near and thedaylightlongpastthewoodsonshorelookeddimandmanyanUtawastidehereemptiedintothelakeWhyshouldweyetoursailunfurlThereisnotabreaththebluewavetocurlButwhenthewindblowsofftheshoreOhsweetlywellrestourwearyoarUtawastidethistremblingmoonShallseeusfloatoerthysurgessoonAt last we glided past the green isle which had been our landmark alljoininginthechorusasifbythewaterylinksofriversandoflakeswewereabout to float over unmeasured zones of earth bound on unimaginableadventuresmdashSaintofthisgreenislehearourprayersOhgrantuscoolheavensandfavoringairsAboutnineoclockwereachedtheriverandranourboatintoanaturalhavenbetween some rocks and drew her out on the sand This camping-groundMcCauslinhadbeenfamiliarwithinhislumberingdaysandhenowstruckitunerringlyin themoonlightandweheardthesoundof therillwhichwouldsupply uswith coolwater emptying into the lakeThe first businesswas tomakeafireanoperationwhichwasalittledelayedbythewetnessofthefuelandthegroundowingtotheheavyshowersoftheafternoonThefireisthemaincomfortofthecampwhetherinsummerorwinterandisaboutasampleatone seasonas at another It is aswell for cheerfulness as forwarmthanddrynessItformsonesideofthecamponebrightsideatanyrateSomeweredispersed to fetch in dead trees and boughs whileUncleGeorge felled thebirchesandbeecheswhichstoodconvenientandsoonwehadafiresometenfeet longby threeor four highwhich rapidlydried the sandbefore itThiswascalculated toburnallnightWenextproceeded topitchour tentwhichoperationwasperformedbystickingourtwospike-polesintothegroundinaslantingdirectionabouttenfeetapartforraftersandthendrawingourcottonclothoverthemandtyingitdownattheendsleavingitopeninfrontshed-

fashionButthiseveningthewindcarriedthesparksontothetentandburneditSowehastilydrewupthebatteaujustwithintheedgeofthewoodsbeforethefireandproppinguponesidethreeorfourfeethighspreadthetentontheground to lieon andwith the cornerof ablanket orwhatmoreor lesswecouldgettoputoveruslaydownwithourheadsandbodiesundertheboatandourfeetandlegsonthesandtowardthefireAtfirstwelayawaketalkingofour course and findingourselves in soconvenient aposture for studyingthe heavenswith themoon and stars shining in our faces our conversationnaturally turned upon astronomy and we recounted by turns the mostinterestingdiscoveries in that scienceBut at lengthwe composedourselvesseriouslytosleepItwasinterestingwhenawakenedatmidnighttowatchthegrotesqueandfiend-likeformsandmotionsofsomeoneofthepartywhonotbeingabletosleephadgotupsilentlytoarousethefireandaddfreshfuelforachangenowstealthilyluggingadeadtreefromoutthedarkandheavingitonnowstirringuptheemberswithhisforkortiptoeingabouttoobservethestarswatchedperchancebyhalftheprostratepartyinbreathlesssilencesomuchthemoreintensebecausetheywereawakewhileeachsupposedhisneighborsoundasleepThusarousedItoobroughtfreshfueltothefireandthenrambledalongthesandyshoreinthemoonlighthopingtomeetamoosecome down to drink or else a wolf The little rill tinkled the louder andpeopledall thewildernessformeandtheglassysmoothnessofthesleepinglake laving the shores of a newworldwith the dark fantastic rocks risinghereandtherefromitssurfacemadeascenenoteasilydescribedIthasleftsuchan impressionof sternyetgentlewildnessonmymemoryaswillnotsoonbeeffacedNotfarfrommidnightwewereoneafteranotherawakenedbyrainfallingonourextremitiesandaseachwasmadeawareofthefactbycoldorwethedrewalongsighandthendrewuphislegsuntilgraduallywehad all sidled round from lying at right angleswith theboat till our bodiesformed an acute angle with it and were wholly protected When next weawokethemoonandstarswereshiningagainandthereweresignsofdawnintheeastIhavebeenthusparticularinordertoconveysomeideaofanightinthewoodsWehadsoonlaunchedandloadedourboatandleavingourfireblazingwereoffagainbeforebreakfastThelumberersrarelytroublethemselvestoputouttheirfiressuchisthedampnessoftheprimitiveforestandthisisonecausenodoubtofthefrequentfiresinMaineofwhichwehearsomuchonsmokydaysinMassachusettsTheforestsareheldcheapafterthewhitepinehasbeenculled out and the explorers and hunters pray for rain only to clear theatmosphereofsmokeThewoodsweresowetto-dayhoweverthattherewasno danger of our fire spreading After poling up half a mile of river orthoroughfarewerowedamileacrossthefootofPamadumcookLakewhichisthenamegivenonthemaptothiswholechainoflakesasiftherewasbut

one though theyare ineach instancedistinctlyseparatedbya reachof theriverwithitsnarrowandrockychannelanditsrapidsThislakewhichisoneof the largest stretched northwest ten miles to hills and mountains in thedistanceMcCauslinpointedtosomedistantandasyetinaccessibleforestsofwhitepineonthesidesofamountaininthatdirectionTheJoeMerryLakeswhichlaybetweenusandMooseheadonthewestwererecentlyiftheyarenot still surrounded by some of the best timbered land in the State Byanother thoroughfare we passed into Deep Cove a part of the same lakewhichmakesuptwomilestowardthenortheastandrowingtwomilesacrossthisbyanothershortthoroughfareenteredAmbejijisLakeAt the entrance to a lakewe sometimes observedwhat is technically calledfencing-stuff or the unhewn timbers of which booms are formed eithersecuredtogetherinthewaterorlaidupontherocksandlashedtotreesforspringuseButitwasalwaysstartlingtodiscoversoplainatrailofcivilizedmanthereIrememberthatIwasstrangelyaffectedwhenwewerereturningbythesightofaring-boltwelldrilledintoarockandfastenedwithleadattheheadofthissolitaryAmbejijisLakeItwaseasytoseethatdrivinglogsmustbeanexcitingaswellasarduousanddangerous business All winter long the logger goes on piling up the treeswhichhehastrimmedandhauledinsomedryravineattheheadofastreamandtheninthespringhestandsonthebankandwhistlesforRainandThawreadytowringtheperspirationoutofhisshirttoswellthetidetillsuddenlywithawhoopandhalloofromhimshuttinghiseyesasiftobidfarewelltothe existing state of things a fair proportion of his winters work goesscramblingdown the country followedbyhis faithfuldogsThawandRainand Freshet andWind thewhole pack in full cry toward theOronoMillsEverylogismarkedwiththeownersnamecutinthesapwoodwithanaxeorboredwithanaugersodeepasnottobewornoffinthedrivingandyetnotsoastoinjurethetimberanditrequiresconsiderableingenuitytoinventnewand simple marks where there are so many owners They have quite analphabet of their own which only the practiced can read One of mycompanionsreadofffromhismemorandumbooksomemarksofhisownlogsamong which there were crosses belts crows feet girdles etc as Ymdashgirdlemdashcrowfoot and various other devices When the logs have run thegauntletofinnumerablerapidsandfallseachonitsownaccountwithmoreor less jamming and bruising those bearing various owners marks beingmixeduptogethermdashsinceallmusttakeadvantageofthesamefreshetmdashtheyare collected together at the heads of the lakes and surrounded by a boomfenceof floating logs toprevent their beingdispersedby thewind andarethustowedalltogetherlikeaflockofsheepacrossthelakewherethereisnocurrentbyawindlassorboom-headsuchaswesometimessawstandingonanislandorheadlandand ifcircumstancespermitwith theaidofsailsand

oarsSometimesnotwithstanding thelogsaredispersedovermanymilesoflakesurface ina fewhoursbywindsandfreshetsand thrownupondistantshoreswherethedrivercanpickuponlyoneortwoatatimeandreturnwiththemtothethoroughfareandbeforehegetshisflockwellthroughAmbejijisor Pamadumcook he makes many a wet and uncomfortable camp on theshore He must be able to navigate a log as if it were a canoe and be asindifferent to cold and wet as a muskrat He uses a few efficient toolsmdashalevercommonlyofrockmaplesixorsevenfeetlongwithastoutspikeinitstrongly ferruled on and a long spike-pole with a screw at the end of thespiketomakeitholdTheboysalongshorelearntowalkonfloatinglogsascityboyson sidewalksSometimes the logs are thrownupon rocks in suchpositions as to be irrecoverable but by another freshet as high or they jamtogether at rapids and falls and accumulate in vast piles which the drivermuststartattheriskofhislifeSuchisthelumberbusinesswhichdependsonmanyaccidentsastheearlyfreezingoftheriversthattheteamsmaygetupinseasonasufficientfreshetinthespringtofetchthelogsdownandmanyothersIquoteMichauxonLumberingontheKennebecthenthesourceofthebest white pine lumber carried to England The persons engaged in thisbranch of industry are generally emigrants from New Hampshire In thesummer they unite in small companies and traverse these vast solitudes inevery direction to ascertain the places in which the pines abound Aftercuttingthegrassandconvertingitintohayforthenourishmentofthecattletobeemployed in their labor they returnhome In thebeginningof thewintertheyentertheforestsagainestablishthemselvesinhutscoveredwiththebarkofthecanoe-birchorthearbor-vitaeligandthoughthecoldissointensethatthemercurysometimesremainsforseveralweeksfrom40degto50deg[Fahr]belowthe point of congelation they persevere with unabated courage in theirworkAccording toSpringer thecompanyconsistsofchoppers swampersmdashwhomakeroadsmdashbarkerandloader teamsterandcookWhenthe treesarefelledtheycutthemintologsfromfourteentoeighteenfeetlongandbymeansoftheircattlewhichtheyemploywithgreatdexteritydragthemtotheriverandafterstampingonthemamarkofpropertyrollthemonitsfrozenbosom At the breaking of the ice in the spring they float down with thecurrent The logs that are not drawn the first year adds Michaux areattacked by large worms which form holes about two lines in diameter ineverydirectionbut if strippedof their bark theywill remainuninjured forthirtyyearsAmbejijisthisquietSundaymorningstruckmeasthemostbeautifullakewehadseen It is said tobeoneof thedeepestWehad the fairestviewof JoeMerryDoubleTopandKtaadnfromitssurfaceThesummitofthelatterhadasingularlyflattable-landappearancelikeashorthighwaywhereademigodmightbeletdowntotakeaturnortwoinanafternoontosettlehisdinnerWe

rowedamileandahalf tonear theheadof thelakeandpushingthroughafieldof lily-pads landed to cookourbreakfast by the sideof a large rockknown to McCauslin Our breakfast consisted of tea with hard-bread andpork and fried salmonwhichwe atewith forks neatlywhittled from aldertwigswhichgrewthereoffstripsofbirch-barkforplatesTheteawasblackteawithoutmilktocolororsugartosweetenitandtwotindipperswereourteacupsThisbeverageisasindispensabletotheloggersastoanygossipingoldwomeninthelandandtheynodoubtderivegreatcomfortfromitHerewas the site of an old loggers camp remembered by McCauslin nowovergrown with weeds and bushes In the midst of a dense underwood wenoticedawholebrickonarockinasmallruncleanandredandsquareasinabrick-yardwhichhadbeenbroughtthusfarformerlyfortampingSomeofusafterwardregrettedthatwehadnotcarriedthisonwithustothetopofthemountaintobeleftthereforourmarkItwouldcertainlyhavebeenasimpleevidenceofcivilizedmanMcCauslinsaidthatlargewoodencrossesmadeofoak still sound were sometimes found standing in this wilderness whichwere set up by the first Catholic missionaries who came through to theKennebecInthenextninemileswhichweretheextentofourvoyageandwhichittookustherestofthedaytogetoverwerowedacrossseveralsmalllakespoledupnumerousrapidsandthoroughfaresandcarriedoverfourportagesIwillgive the names and distances for the benefit of future tourists First afterleavingAmbejijisLakewehadaquarterofamileofrapidstotheportageorcarry of ninety rods aroundAmbejijis Falls then amile and a half throughPassamagametLakewhich isnarrowand river-like to the fallsof thesamenamemdashAmbejijis stream coming in on the right then two miles throughKatepskonegan Lake to the portage of ninety rods around KatepskoneganFallswhichnamesignifiescarrying-placemdashPassamagametstreamcomingin on the left then three miles through Pockwockomus Lake a slightexpansionoftherivertotheportageoffortyrodsaroundthefallsofthesamenamemdashKatepskoneganstreamcominginontheleftthenthreequartersofamilethroughAboljacarmegusLakesimilartothelasttotheportageoffortyrodsaroundthefallsofthesamenamethenhalfamileofrapidwatertotheSowadnehunkdeadwaterandtheAboljacknagesicstreamThisisgenerallytheorderofnamesasyouascendtheriverFirstthelakeorif there is no expansion the deadwater then the falls then the streamemptyingintothelakeorriveraboveallofthesamenameFirstwecametoPassamagamet Lake then to Passamagamet Falls then to PassamagametStreamemptyinginThisorderandidentityofnamesitwillbeperceivedisquite philosophical since the deadwater or lake is always at least partiallyproducedbythestreamemptyinginaboveandthefirstfallbelowwhichistheoutletof that lakeandwhere that tributarywatermakes its firstplunge

alsonaturallybearsthesamenameAt theportagearoundAmbejijisFalls Iobservedapork-barrelon theshorewithaholeeightornineinchessquarecutinonesidewhichwassetagainstan upright rock but the bears without turning or upsetting the barrel hadgnawedaholeintheoppositesidewhichlookedexactlylikeanenormousrat-holebigenoughtoputtheirheadsinandatthebottomofthebarrelwerestillleftafewmangledandslabberedslicesofporkItisusualforthelumbererstoleave such supplies as they cannot conveniently carry along with them atcarriesorcampstowhichthenextcomersdonotscrupletohelpthemselvestheybeingthepropertycommonlynotofanindividualbutacompanywhocanaffordtodealliberallyIwilldescribeparticularlyhowwegotoversomeoftheseportagesandrapidsin order that the readermay get an idea of the boatmans lifeAtAmbejijisFalls for instance there was the roughest path imaginable cut through thewoodsatfirstuphillatanangleofnearlyforty-fivedegreesoverrocksandlogswithoutendThiswasthemanneroftheportageWefirstcarriedoverourbaggageanddepositeditontheshoreattheotherendthenreturningtothebatteauwe dragged it up the hill by the painter and onwardwith frequentpausesoverhalf theportageBut thiswasabunglingway andwould soonhave worn out the boat Commonly three men walk over with a batteauweighing from three to five or six hundred pounds on their heads andshoulders the tallest standing under themiddle of the boatwhich is turnedoverandoneateachendorelsetherearetwoatthebowsMorecannotwelltakeholdatonceButthisrequiressomepracticeaswellasstrengthandisinanycaseextremely laboriousandwearing to theconstitution to followWewereonthewholeratheraninvalidpartyandcouldrenderourboatmenbutlittleassistanceOurtwomenatlengthtookthebatteauupontheirshouldersandwhile twoofussteadiedit toprevent it fromrockingandwearingintotheir shouldersonwhich theyplaced theirhats foldedwalkedbravelyoverthe remaining distance with two or three pauses In the samemanner theyaccomplished theotherportagesWith this crushingweight theymust climbandstumblealongoverfallentreesandslipperyrocksofallsizeswherethosewho walked by the sides were continually brushed off such was thenarrownessofthepathButwewerefortunatenottohavetocutourpathinthe firstplaceBeforewe launchedourboatwe scraped thebottomsmoothagainwithourkniveswhereithadrubbedontherockstosavefrictionToavoidthedifficultiesoftheportageourmendeterminedtowarpupthePassamagamet Falls so while the rest walked over the portage with thebaggageIremainedinthebatteautoassistinwarpingupWeweresooninthemidstof the rapidswhichweremore swift and tumultuous thananywehad poled up and had turned to the side of the stream for the purpose of

warping when the boatmen who felt some pride in their skill and wereambitioustodosomethingmorethanusualformybenefitasIsurmisedtookonemoreviewoftherapidsorratherthefallsandinanswertoourquestionwhetherwecouldntgetuptheretheotheransweredthatheguessedhedtryitSowepushedagainintothemidstofthestreamandbegantostrugglewiththe current I sat in themiddle of theboat to trim itmoving slightly to therightor left as it grazed a rockWith anuncertain andwaveringmotionwewound and bolted our way up until the bow was actually raised two feetabove the stern at the steepest pitch and then when everything dependeduponhisexertionsthebowmanspolesnappedintwobutbeforehehadtimeto take the spare one which I reached him he had saved himself with thefragmentuponarockandsowegotupbyahairsbreadthandUncleGeorgeexclaimedthatthatwasneverdonebeforeandhehadnottrieditifhehadnotknownwhomhehadgotinthebownorheinthebowifhehadnotknownhim in the stern At this place there was a regular portage cut through thewoods and our boatmen had never known a batteau to ascend the fallsAsnearasIcanremembertherewasaperpendicularfallhereattheworstplaceofthewholePenobscotRivertwoorthreefeetatleastIcouldnotsufficientlyadmire the skill and coolness with which they performed this feat neverspeakingtoeachotherThebowmannotlookingbehindbutknowingexactlywhat theother isaboutworksas ifheworkedaloneNowsounding invainfor a bottom in fifteen feet ofwaterwhile the boat falls back several rodsheldstraightonlywiththegreatestskillandexertionorwhile thesternmanobstinately holds his ground like a turtle the bowman springs from side toside with wonderful suppleness and dexterity scanning the rapids and therockswith a thousand eyes and now having got a bite at lastwith a lustyshovewhichmakeshispolebendandquiverandthewholeboattremblehegainsafewfeetupontheriverToaddtothedangerthepolesareliableatanytimetobecaughtbetweentherocksandwrenchedoutoftheirhandsleavingthematthemercyoftherapidsmdashtherocksasitwerelyinginwait likesomanyalligators tocatchthemintheirteethandjerkthemfromyourhandsbeforeyouhavestolenaneffectualshoveagainsttheirpalatesThepoleissetclosetotheboatandtheprowismadetoovershootandjustturnthecornersof the rocks in the very teeth of the rapids Nothing but the length andlightness and the slight draught of the batteau enables them to make anyheadway The bowmanmust quickly choose his course there is no time todeliberate Frequently the boat is shoved between rocks where both sidestouchandthewatersoneitherhandareaperfectmaelstromHalfamileabovethistwoofustriedourhandsatpolingupaslightrapidandwe were just surmounting the last difficulty when an unlucky rockconfounded our calculations and while the batteau was sweeping roundirrecoverablyamidthewhirlpoolwewereobligedtoresignthepolestomore

skillfulhandsKatepskoneganisoneoftheshallowestandweediestofthelakesandlookedas if it might abound in pickerel The falls of the same name where westopped to dine are considerable and quite picturesqueHereUncleGeorgehadseen troutcaughtby thebarrelfulbut theywouldnot rise toourbaitatthishourHalfwayoverthiscarrythusfarintheMainewildernessonitswayto theProvinceswe noticed a large flamingOakHall handbill about twofeet longwrapped round the trunkofapine fromwhich thebarkhadbeenstrippedandtowhichitwasfastgluedbythepitchThisshouldberecordedamongtheadvantagesofthismodeofadvertisingthatsopossiblyeventhebears andwolvesmoose deer otter andbeaver not tomention the Indianmaylearnwheretheycanfitthemselvesaccordingtothelatestfashionoratleast recover some of their own lost garmentsWe christened this the OakHallcarryTheforenoonwasassereneandplacidonthiswildstreaminthewoodsasweare apt to imagine that Sunday in summer usually is inMassachusettsWewere occasionally startled by the scream of a bald eagle sailing over thestream in front of our batteau or of the fish hawks onwhom he levies hiscontributionsTherewereat intervalssmallmeadowsofafewacreson thesidesofthestreamwavingwithuncutgrasswhichattractedtheattentionofourboatmenwho regretted that theywerenotnearer to their clearings andcalculated how many stacks they might cut Two or three men sometimesspendthesummerbythemselvescuttingthegrassinthesemeadowstoselltotheloggersinthewintersinceitwillfetchahigherpriceonthespotthaninanymarketintheStateOnasmallislecoveredwiththiskindofrushorcut-grassonwhichwelandedtoconsultaboutourfurthercoursewenoticedtherecent track of a moose a large roundish hole in the soft wet groundevincingthegreatsizeandweightoftheanimalthatmadeitTheyarefondofthewaterandvisitalltheseislandmeadowsswimmingaseasilyfromislandtoislandastheymaketheirwaythroughthethicketsonlandNowandthenwepassedwhatMcCauslin called a pokelogan an Indian term forwhat thedriversmighthavereasontocallapoke-logs-inaninletthatleadsnowhereIfyou get in you have got to get out again the same way These and thefrequent runrounds which come into the river again would embarrass aninexperiencedvoyagernotalittleThecarryaroundPockwockomusFallswasexceedinglyroughandrockythebatteauhavingtobelifteddirectlyfromthewaterupfourorfivefeetontoarockandlaunchedagaindownasimilarbankTherocksonthisportagewerecovered with the dents made by the spikes in the lumberers boots whilestaggeringoverunder theweightof theirbatteauxandyoucouldseewherethesurfaceofsome large rocksonwhich theyhad rested theirbatteauxwas

wornquitesmoothwithuseAsitwaswehadcarriedoverbuthalftheusualportageat thisplaceforthisstageofthewaterandlaunchedourboatinthesmoothwavejustcurvingtothefallpreparedtostrugglewiththemostviolentrapidwehadtoencounterTherestofthepartywalkedovertheremainderoftheportagewhileI remainedwith theboatmentoassist inwarpingupOnehadtoholdtheboatwhiletheothersgotintopreventitfromgoingoverthefallsWhenwehadpusheduptherapidsasfaraspossiblekeepingclose totheshoreTomseizedthepainterandleapedoutuponarockjustvisibleinthewater but he lost his footing notwithstanding his spiked boots and wasinstantlyamid therapidsbutrecoveringhimselfbygoodluckandreachinganotherrockhepassedthepaintertomewhohadfollowedhimandtookhisplaceagaininthebowsLeapingfromrocktorockintheshoalwaterclosetotheshoreandnowandthengettingabitewiththeroperoundanuprightoneI held theboatwhile one reset his pole and then all three forced it upwardagainstanyrapidThiswaswarpingupWhenapartofuswalkedroundatsuchaplacewegenerally took theprecaution to takeout themostvaluablepartofthebaggageforfearofbeingswampedAs we poled up a swift rapid for half a mile above Aboljacarmegus Fallssomeof thepartyreadtheirownmarksonthehugelogswhichlaypileduphighanddryontherocksoneitherhandtherelicsprobablyofajamwhichhadtakenplacehereintheGreatFreshetinthespringManyofthesewouldhavetowaitforanothergreatfreshetperchanceiftheylastedsolongbeforetheycouldbegotoffItwassingularenoughtomeetwithpropertyof theirswhich they had never seen and where they had never been before thusdetainedbyfreshetsandrockswhenonitswaytothemMethinksthatmustbewhere all my property lies cast up on the rocks on some distant andunexploredstreamandwaitingforanunheard-offreshettofetchitdownOmake haste ye godswith yourwinds and rains and start the jambefore itrotsThe lasthalfmilecarriedus to theSowadnehunkDeadwatersocalledfromthe stream of the same name signifying running between mountains animportant tributarywhichcomes inamileaboveHerewedecided tocampabout twenty miles from the Dam at the mouth of Murch Brook and theAboljacknagesicmountainstreamsbroadofffromKtaadnandaboutadozenmilesfromitssummithavingmadefifteenmilesthisdayWe had been told byMcCauslin thatwe should here find trout enough sowhilesomepreparedthecamptherestfelltofishingSeizingthebirchpoleswhich some party of Indians or white hunters had left on the shore andbaitingourhookswithporkandwithtroutassoonastheywerecaughtwecast our lines into themouth of theAboljacknagesic a clear swift shallowstream which came in from Ktaadn Instantly a shoal of white chivin

(Leuciscus pulchellus) silvery roaches cousin-trout or what not large andsmall prowling thereabouts fell upon our bait and one after another werelandedamidst thebushesAnon their cousins the true trout took their turnandalternatelythespeckledtroutandthesilveryroachesswallowedthebaitasfastaswecouldthrowinandthefinestspecimensofboththatIhaveeverseen the largest one weighing three pounds were heaved upon the shorethoughatfirstinvaintowriggledownintothewateragainforwestoodintheboatbut soonwe learned to remedy this evil foronewhohad losthishookstoodonshoretocatchthemastheyfellinaperfectshoweraroundhimmdashsometimeswetandslippery full inhisfaceandbosomashisarmswereoutstretchedtoreceivethemWhileyetalivebeforetheirtintshadfadedtheyglistenedlikethefairestflowerstheproductofprimitiveriversandhecouldhardly trusthis sensesashestoodover them that these jewels shouldhaveswamawayinthatAboljacknagesicwaterforsolongsomanydarkagesmdashthesebrightfluviatileflowersseenofIndiansonlymadebeautifultheLordonlyknowswhytoswimthereIcouldunderstandbetterforthisthetruthofmythology thefablesofProteusandall thosebeautifulsea-monstersmdashhowallhistoryindeedputtoaterrestrialuseismerehistorybutputtoacelestialismythologyalwaysBut there is the roughvoiceofUncleGeorgewhocommandsat the frying-pan to sendoverwhatyouvegot and thenyoumaystay tillmorningThepork sizzles and cries for fish Luckily for the foolish race and thisparticularlyfoolishgenerationoftroutthenightshutdownatlastnotalittledeepenedbythedarksideofKtaadnwhichlikeapermanentshadowreareditselffromtheeasternbankLescarbotwritingin1609tellsusthattheSieurChampdoreacute who with one of the people of the Sieur deMonts ascendedsome fifty leagues up theSt John in 1608 found the fish so plenty quenmettantlachaudiegraveresurlefeuilsenavoientprissuffisammentpoureuxdisneravantqueleaufustchaudeTheirdescendantsherearenolessnumerousSoweaccompaniedTomintothewoodstocutcedartwigsforourbedWhilehewentaheadwith theaxeand loppedoff thesmallest twigsof the flat-leavedcedarthearbor-vitaeligofthegardenswegatheredthemupandreturnedwiththemtotheboatuntilitwasloadedOurbedwasmadewithasmuchcareandskillasaroofisshingledbeginningatthefootandlayingthetwigendofthecedarupwardweadvancedtotheheadacourseatatimethussuccessivelycoveringthestub-endsandproducingasoftandlevelbedForussixitwasabouttenfeetlongbysixinbreadthThistimewelayunderourtenthavingpitched itmoreprudentlywith reference to thewind and the flame and theusualhugefireblazedinfrontSupperwaseatenoffalargelogwhichsomefreshet had thrown upThis nightwe had a dish of arbor-vitaelig or cedar teawhichthelumberersometimesuseswhenotherherbsfailmdashAquartofarbor-vitaelig

TomakehimstrongandmightymdashbutIhadnowishtorepeattheexperimentIthadtoomedicinalatasteformypalate There was the skeleton of a moose here whose bones some IndianhuntershadpickedonthisveryspotInthenightIdreamedoftrout-fishingandwhenatlengthIawokeitseemeda fable that this painted fish swam there so nearmy couch and rose to ourhooks the lasteveningand Idoubted if Ihadnotdreamed it allSo IarosebeforedawntotestitstruthwhilemycompanionswerestillsleepingTherestood Ktaadn with distinct and cloudless outline in the moonlight and theripplingoftherapidswastheonlysoundtobreakthestillnessStandingontheshoreIoncemorecastmylineintothestreamandfoundthedreamtoberealandthefabletrueThespeckledtroutandsilveryroachlikeflying-fishspedswiftly through themoonlight air describingbright arcs on thedark sideofKtaadnuntilmoonlightnowfadingintodaylightbroughtsatietytomymindandthemindsofmycompanionswhohadjoinedmeBy six oclock having mounted our packs and a good blanketful of troutready dressed and swung up such baggage and provision as we wished toleave behind upon the tops of saplings to be out of the reach of bearswestarted for the summit of the mountain distant as Uncle George said theboatmencalled itaboutfourmilesbutasI judgedandas itprovednearerfourteenHehadneverbeenanynearerthemountainthanthisandtherewasnot the slightest trace of man to guide us farther in this direction At firstpushing a few rods up the Aboljacknagesic or open-land stream wefastened our batteau to a tree and traveled up the north side through burntlands nowpartially overgrownwith young aspens and other shrubbery butsoonrecrossingthisstreamwhereitwasaboutfiftyorsixtyfeetwideuponajam of logs and rocksmdashand you could cross it by this means almostanywheremdashwe struck at once for the highest peak over amile ormore ofcomparativelyopenlandstillverygraduallyascendingthewhileHereitfelltomy lot as theoldestmountain-climber to take the leadSo scanning thewoodysideofthemountainwhichlaystillatanindefinitedistancestretchedout some seven or eight miles in length before us we determined to steerdirectlyforthebaseofthehighestpeakleavingalargeslidebywhichasIhave since learned some of our predecessors ascended on our left Thiscoursewouldleadusparallel toadarkseamintheforestwhichmarkedthebedof a torrent andover a slight spurwhichextended southward from themainmountain fromwhose bare summitwe could get an outlook over thecountryandclimbdirectlyup thepeakwhichwould thenbecloseathandSeen from thispoint abare ridgeat theextremityof theopen landKtaadnpresented a different aspect from any mountain I have seen there being agreater proportion of naked rock rising abruptly from the forest and we

looked up at this blue barrier as if it were some fragment of a wall whichanciently bounded the earth in that direction Setting the compass for anortheast coursewhichwas the bearing of the southern base of the highestpeakweweresoonburiedinthewoodsWesoonbegantomeetwith tracesofbearsandmooseandthoseofrabbitswereeverywherevisibleThe tracksofmoosemoreor less recent to speakliterally covered every square rod on the sides of the mountain and theseanimalsareprobablymorenumeroustherenowthaneverbeforebeingdriveninto this wilderness from all sides by the settlements The track of a full-grownmooseis likethatofacoworlargerandoftheyounglikethatofacalfSometimeswe foundourselves traveling in faintpathswhich theyhadmade like cow-paths in the woods only far more indistinct being ratheropenings affording imperfect vistas through the dense underwood thantroddenpathsandeverywherethetwigshadbeenbrowsedbythemclippedassmoothlyasifbyaknifeThebarkoftreeswasstrippedupbythemtotheheightofeightorninefeetinlongnarrowstripsaninchwidestillshowingthedistinctmarksoftheirteethWeexpectednothinglessthantomeetaherdof themeverymoment andourNimrodheldhis shooting-iron in readinessbutwedidnotgooutofourwaytolookforthemandthoughnumeroustheyaresowarythattheunskillfulhuntermightrangetheforestalongtimebeforehe could get sight of one They are sometimes dangerous to encounter andwillnotturnoutforthehunterbutfuriouslyrushuponhimandtramplehimtodeathunlessheisluckyenoughtoavoidthembydodgingroundatreeThelargest are nearly as large as a horse and weigh sometimes one thousandpoundsanditissaidthattheycanstepoverafive-footgateintheirordinarywalkTheyaredescribedasexceedinglyawkward-lookinganimalswiththeirlong legs and short bodiesmaking a ludicrous figurewhen in full run butmakinggreatheadwayneverthelessItseemedamysterytoushowtheycouldthread these woods which it required all our suppleness to accomplishmdashclimbingstoopingandwindingalternatelyTheyaresaidtodroptheirlongandbranchinghornswhichusuallyspreadfiveorsixfeetontheirbacksandmaketheirwayeasilybytheweightoftheirbodiesOurboatmensaidbutIknownotwithhowmuchtruththattheirhornsareapttobegnawedawaybyverminwhiletheysleepTheirfleshwhichismorelikebeefthanvenisoniscommoninBangormarketWehadproceededonthussevenoreightmilestillaboutnoonwithfrequentpauses to refresh the weary ones crossing a considerablemountain streamwhichweconjecturedtobeMurchBrookatwhosemouthwehadcampedallthe time in woods without having once seen the summit and rising verygraduallywhentheboatmenbeginningtodespairalittleandfearingthatwewere leaving themountainononesideofus for theyhadnotentirefaith inthecompassMcCauslinclimbedatreefromthetopofwhichhecouldseethe

peakwhenitappearedthatwehadnotswervedfromarightlinethecompassdownbelowstill rangingwithhisarmwhichpointed to thesummitBy thesideofacoolmountainrillamidthewoodswherethewaterbegantopartakeof the purity and transparency of the air we stopped to cook some of ourfishes which we had brought thus far in order to save our hard-bread andpork intheuseofwhichwehadputourselvesonshortallowanceWesoonhadafireblazingandstoodarounditunderthedampandsombreforestoffirsandbircheseachwithasharpenedstickthreeorfourfeetinlengthuponwhichhehadspittedhistroutorroachpreviouslywellgashedandsaltedoursticksradiatinglikethespokesofawheelfromonecentreandeachcrowdinghisparticularfishintothemostdesirableexposurenotwiththetruestregardalways to his neighbors rights Thus we regaled ourselves drinkingmeanwhile at the spring till one mans pack at least was considerablylightenedwhenweagaintookupourlineofmarchAt lengthwe reached an elevation sufficiently bare to afford a view of thesummitstilldistantandbluealmostasifretreatingfromusAtorrentwhichproved to be the same we had crossed was seen tumbling down in frontliterallyfromoutofthecloudsButthisglimpseatourwhereaboutswassoonlost andwewere buried in thewoods againThewoodwas chiefly yellowbirch spruce firmountain-ash or round-wood as theMainepeople call itand moose-wood It was the worst kind of traveling sometimes like thedensest scrub oak patches with us The cornel or bunch-berries were veryabundant as well as Solomons-seal and moose-berries Blueberries weredistributedalongourwholerouteandinoneplacethebushesweredroopingwiththeweightofthefruitstillasfreshaseverItwasthe7thofSeptemberSuch patches afforded a grateful repast and served to bait the tired partyforwardWhenanylaggedbehindthecryofblueberrieswasmosteffectualto bring them up Even at this elevation we passed through a moose-yardformedbya largeflat rock fouror fiverodssquarewhere they treaddownthesnowinwinterAtlengthfearingthatifweheldthedirectcoursetothesummitweshouldnotfindanywaternearourcamping-groundwegraduallyswerved to thewest tillat fouroclockwestruckagain the torrentwhichIhavementionedandhereinviewofthesummitthewearypartydecidedtocampthatnightWhile my companions were seeking a suitable spot for this purpose IimprovedthelittledaylightthatwasleftinclimbingthemountainaloneWewere in a deep and narrow ravine sloping up to the clouds at an angle ofnearlyforty-fivedegreesandhemmedinbywallsofrockwhichwereatfirstcoveredwithlowtreesthenwithimpenetrablethicketsofscraggybirchesandsprucetreesandwithmossbutatlastbareofallvegetationbutlichensandalmost continually draped in clouds Following up the course of the torrentwhichoccupied thismdashand Imean to laysomeemphasison thiswordupmdash

pullingmyselfupbythesideofperpendicularfallsoftwentyorthirtyfeetbytherootsoffirsandbirchesandthenperhapswalkingalevelrodortwointhethinstreamfor it tookupthewholeroadascendingbyhugestepsas itwere a giants stairway downwhich a river flowed I had soon cleared thetreesandpausedonthesuccessiveshelvestolookbackoverthecountryThetorrentwasfromfifteentothirtyfeetwidewithoutatributaryandseeminglynotdiminishinginbreadthasIadvancedbutstillitcamerushingandroaringdownwithacopioustideoverandamidstmassesofbarerockfromtheverycloudsasthoughawaterspouthadjustburstoverthemountainLeavingthisat lastIbegantoworkmywayscarcelylessarduousthanSatansancientlythroughChaosupthenearestthoughnotthehighestpeakAtfirstscramblingonallfoursoverthetopsofancientblacksprucetrees(Abiesnigra)oldastheflood fromtwoto tenor twelvefeet inheight their topsflatandspreadingandtheirfoliageblueandnippedwithcoldasifforcenturiestheyhadceasedgrowingupwardagainstthebleakskythesolidcoldIwalkedsomegoodrodserect upon the tops of these trees which were overgrown with moss andmountaincranberries Itseemedthat in thecourseof timetheyhadfilleduptheintervalsbetweenthehugerocksandthecoldwindhaduniformlyleveledall over Here the principle of vegetation was hard put to it There wasapparently a belt of this kind running quite round the mountain thoughperhaps nowhere so remarkable as here Once slumping through I lookeddowntenfeetintoadarkandcavernousregionandsawthestemofaspruceonwhosetopIstoodasonamassofcoarsebasket-workfullynineinchesindiameteratthegroundTheseholeswerebearsdensandthebearswereeventhenathomeThiswasthesortofgardenImademywayoverforaneighthofamileattheriskitistrueoftreadingonsomeoftheplantsnotseeinganypath through itmdashcertainly the most treacherous and porous country I evertraveledNighfounderedonhefaresTreadingthecrudeconsistencehalfonfootHalfflyingButnothingcouldexceedthetoughnessofthetwigsmdashnotonesnappedundermyweight for they had slowly grownHaving slumped scrambled rolledbounced and walked by turns over this scraggy country I arrived upon aside-hill or rather side-mountain where rocks gray silent rocks were theflocksandherdsthatpasturedchewingarockycudatsunsetTheylookedatmewithhardgrayeyeswithoutableatoralowThisbroughtmetotheskirtofacloudandboundedmywalkthatnightButIhadalreadyseenthatMainecountrywhenIturnedaboutwavingflowingripplingdownbelowWhen I returned tomycompanions theyhadselectedacamping-groundonthe torrents edge andwere restingon theground onewason the sick list

rolledinablanketonadampshelfofrockItwasasavageanddrearysceneryenoughsowildlyroughthattheylookedlongtofindalevelandopenspacefor the tentWe couldnotwell camphigher forwant of fuel and the treeshere seemed so evergreen and sappy thatwe almost doubted if theywouldacknowledgetheinfluenceoffirebutfireprevailedat lastandblazedheretoolikeagoodcitizenoftheworldEvenatthisheightwemetwithfrequenttracesofmooseaswellasofbearsAsherewasnocedarwemadeourbedofcoarser feathered spruce but at any rate the featherswereplucked from thelive tree ItwasperhapsevenamoregrandanddesolateplaceforanightslodgingthanthesummitwouldhavebeenbeingintheneighborhoodofthosewildtreesandofthetorrentSomemoreaeumlrialandfiner-spiritedwindsrushedand roared through the ravineallnight from time to timearousingour fireanddispersingtheembersaboutItwasasifwelayintheverynestofayoungwhirlwindAtmidnightoneofmybed-fellowsbeingstartled inhisdreamsby the sudden blazing up to its top of a fir treewhose green boughsweredriedbytheheatsprangupwithacryfromhisbed thinkingtheworldonfireanddrewthewholecampafterhimInthemorningafterwhettingourappetiteonsomerawporkawaferofhard-breadandadipperofcondensedcloudorwaterspoutwealltogetherbegantomakeourwayupthefallswhichIhavedescribedthistimechoosingtherighthand or highest peakwhichwas not the one I had approached beforeButsoonmycompanionswerelosttomysightbehindthemountainridgeinmyrearwhich still seemedever retreatingbeforemeand I climbedaloneoverhugerockslooselypoisedamileormorestilledgingtowardthecloudsforthoughthedaywasclearelsewhere thesummitwasconcealedbymistThemountain seemed a vast aggregation of loose rocks as if some time it hadrainedrocksandtheylayastheyfellonthemountainsidesnowherefairlyatrestbut leaningoneachotherall rockingstoneswithcavitiesbetweenbutscarcelyanysoilorsmoothershelfTheywere therawmaterialsofaplanetdropped from an unseen quarry which the vast chemistry of nature wouldanonworkuporworkdownintothesmilingandverdantplainsandvalleysofearthThiswasanundoneextremityoftheglobeasinligniteweseecoalintheprocessofformationAtlengthIenteredwithintheskirtsofthecloudwhichseemedforeverdriftingoverthesummitandyetwouldneverbegonebutwasgeneratedoutofthatpure air as fast as it flowed away andwhen a quarter of amile farther Ireachedthesummitoftheridgewhichthosewhohaveseeninclearerweathersayisaboutfivemileslongandcontainsathousandacresoftable-landIwasdeepwithinthehostileranksofcloudsandallobjectswereobscuredbythemNowthewindwouldblowmeoutayardofclearsunlightwherein I stoodthen a gray dawning light was all it could accomplish the cloud-line everrising and falling with the winds intensity Sometimes it seemed as if the

summitwouldbeclearedinafewmomentsandsmileinsunshinebutwhatwasgainedononesidewas lostonanother Itwas likesitting inachimneyandwaiting for the smoke to blow away Itwas in fact a cloud-factorymdashthesewerethecloud-worksandthewindturnedthemoffdonefromthecoolbare rocksOccasionallywhen thewindycolumnsbroke in tome I caughtsight of a dark damp crag to the right or left themist driving ceaselesslybetween it and me It reminded me of the creations of the old epic anddramatic poets of Atlas Vulcan the Cyclops and Prometheus Such wasCaucasusandtherockwherePrometheuswasboundAEligschylushadnodoubtvisited such scenery as this It was vast Titanic and such as man neverinhabits Some part of the beholder even some vital part seems to escapethroughtheloosegratingofhisribsasheascendsHeismorelonethanyoucanimagineThereislessofsubstantialthoughtandfairunderstandinginhimthan in the plainswheremen inhabitHis reason is dispersed and shadowymorethinandsubtileliketheairVastTitanicinhumanNaturehasgothimatdisadvantagecaughthimaloneandpilfershimofsomeofhisdivinefacultyShe does not smile on him as in the plains She seems to say sternlyWhycameyeherebeforeyourtimeThisgroundisnotpreparedforyouIsitnotenoughthatIsmileinthevalleysIhavenevermadethissoilforthyfeetthisair for thybreathing these rocks for thyneighbors I cannotpitynor fondletheeherebutforeverrelentlesslydrivetheehencetowhereIamkindWhyseekmewhereIhavenotcalledtheeandthencomplainbecauseyoufindmebut a stepmother Shouldst thou freeze or starve or shudder thy life awayhereisnoshrinenoraltarnoranyaccesstomyearChaosandancientNightIcomenospyWithpurposetoexploreortodisturbThesecretsofyourrealmbutasmywayLiesthroughyourspaciousempireuptolightThetopsofmountainsareamongtheunfinishedpartsoftheglobewhitheritisaslight insult to thegods toclimbandpry into theirsecretsand try theireffect on our humanityOnly daring and insolentmen perchance go thereSimpleracesassavagesdonotclimbmountainsmdashtheirtopsaresacredandmysterious tracts never visited by them Pomola is always angrywith thosewhoclimbtothesummitofKtaadnAccordingtoJacksonwhoinhiscapacityofgeologicalsurveyoroftheStatehasaccuratelymeasureditthealtitudeofKtaadnis5300feetoralittlemorethanonemileabovetheleveloftheseaandheaddsItisthenevidentlythehighestpointintheStateofMaineandisthemostabruptgranitemountaininNewEnglandThepeculiarities of that spacious table-landonwhich Iwas

standing as well as the remarkable semicircular precipice or basin on theeasternsidewereallconcealedbythemistIhadbroughtmywholepacktothe topnotknowingbutIshouldhavetomakemydescent to theriverandpossiblytothesettledportionoftheStatealoneandbysomeotherrouteandwishing to have a complete outfit with me But at length fearing that mycompanionswould be anxious to reach the river before night and knowingthat the clouds might rest on the mountain for days I was compelled todescendOccasionallyasIcamedownthewindwouldblowmeavistaopenthroughwhichIcouldseethecountryeastwardboundlessforestsandlakesand streams gleaming in the sun some of them emptying into the EastBranchTherewere also newmountains in sight in that directionNowandthensomesmallbirdofthesparrowfamilywouldflitawaybeforemeunabletocommanditscourselikeafragmentofthegrayrockblownoffbythewindI found my companions where I had left them on the side of the peakgathering the mountain cranberries which filled every crevice between therockstogetherwithblueberrieswhichhadaspicierflavorthehigheruptheygrew but were not the less agreeable to our palates When the country issettledandroadsaremade thesecranberrieswillperhapsbecomeanarticleofcommerceFrom thiselevation juston the skirtsof thecloudswecouldoverlook thecountrywestandsouth forahundredmilesThere itwas theState ofMaine which we had seen on the map but not much like thatmdashimmeasurable forest for the sun to shineon that eastern stuffwehearof inMassachusettsNoclearingnohouseItdidnot lookasifasolitarytravelerhadcutsomuchasawalking-stickthereCountlesslakesmdashMooseheadinthesouthwest fortymiles longby tenwide likeagleamingsilverplatterat theendofthetableChesuncookeighteenlongbythreewidewithoutanislandMillinocket on the south with its hundred islands and a hundred otherswithout a name and mountains also whose names for the most part areknownonlytotheIndiansTheforestlookedlikeafirmgrassswardandtheeffectoftheselakesinitsmidsthasbeenwellcomparedbyonewhohassincevisitedthissamespot tothatofamirrorbrokenintoathousandfragmentsandwildlyscatteredoverthegrassreflectingthefullblazeofthesunItwasa largefarmforsomebodywhenclearedAccordingto theGazetteerwhichwas printed before the boundary questionwas settled this single PenobscotCountyinwhichwewerewaslargerthanthewholeStateofVermontwithitsfourteencountiesandthiswasonlyapartofthewildlandsofMaineWeareconcernednowhoweveraboutnaturalnotpoliticallimitsWewereabouteightymilesasthebirdfliesfromBangororonehundredandfifteenaswehad ridden andwalked and paddledWehad to console ourselveswith thereflectionthatthisviewwasprobablyasgoodasthatfromthepeakasfarasit went and what were a mountain without its attendant clouds andmistsLikeourselvesneitherBaileynorJacksonhadobtainedaclearviewfromthe

summitSetting out on our return to the river still at an early hour in the day wedecided to followthecourseof the torrentwhichwesupposed tobeMurchBrookaslongasitwouldnotleadustoofaroutofourwayWethustraveledaboutfourmilesintheverytorrentitselfcontinuallycrossingandrecrossingitleapingfromrocktorockandjumpingwiththestreamdownfallsofsevenoreightfeetorsometimesslidingdownonourbacksinathinsheetofwaterThis ravine had been the scene of an extraordinary freshet in the springapparentlyaccompaniedbyaslidefromthemountainItmusthavebeenfilledwithastreamofstonesandwateratleasttwentyfeetabovethepresentlevelof the torrentFora rodor twooneither sideof its channel the treeswerebarked and splintered up to their tops the birches bent over twisted andsometimesfinelysplitlikeastable-broomsomeafootindiametersnappedoff andwhole clumps of trees bent overwith theweight of rocks piled onthem In one placewe noticed a rock two or three feet in diameter lodgednearly twenty feethigh in thecrotchof a treeFor thewhole fourmileswesaw but one rill emptying in and the volume of water did not seem to beincreased from the first We traveled thus very rapidly with a downwardimpetusandgrewremarkablyexpertatleapingfromrocktorockforleapwemustandleapwedidwhethertherewasanyrockattherightdistanceornotItwas apleasantpicturewhen the foremost turnedabout and lookedup thewindingravinewalledinwithrocksandthegreenforesttoseeatintervalsofarodortwoared-shirtedorgreen-jacketedmountaineeragainstthewhitetorrentleapingdownthechannelwithhispackonhisbackorpausinguponaconvenient rock in themidst of the torrent tomend a rent inhis clothes orunstrapthedipperathisbelt totakeadraughtofthewaterAtoneplacewewerestartledbyseeingona littlesandyshelfby thesideof thestream thefreshprintofamansfootandforamomentrealizedhowRobinsonCrusoefeltinasimilarcasebutatlastwerememberedthatwehadstruckthisstreamonourwayupthoughwecouldnothavetoldwhereandonehaddescendedintotheravineforadrinkThecoolairaboveandthecontinualbathingofourbodiesinmountainwateralternatefootsitzdoucheandplungebathsmadethiswalkexceedinglyrefreshingandwehadtraveledonlyamileortwoafterleaving the torrent before every thread of our clotheswas as dry as usualowingperhapstoapeculiarqualityintheatmosphereAfter leaving the torrent being indoubt aboutour courseTom threwdownhispackatthefootoftheloftiestsprucetreeathandandshinnedupthebaretrunksometwentyfeetandthenclimbedthroughthegreentowerlosttooursightuntilheheld the topmost spray inhishandMcCauslin inhisyoungerdays had marched through the wilderness with a body of troops underGeneralSomebody andwithoneothermandid all the scouting and spyingserviceTheGeneralswordwasThrowdownthetopofthattreeandthere

wasnotree in theMainewoodssohighthat itdidnot lose its top insuchacaseIhaveheardastoryoftwomenbeinglostonceinthesewoodsnearertothesettlementsthanthiswhoclimbedtheloftiestpinetheycouldfindsomesixfeetindiameteratthegroundfromwhosetoptheydiscoveredasolitaryclearinganditssmokeWhenatthisheightsometwohundredfeetfromthegroundoneofthembecamedizzyandfaintedinhiscompanionsarmsandthe latter had to accomplish the descent with him alternately fainting andrevivingasbesthecouldToTomwecried Whereawaydoes thesummitbearwheretheburntlandsThelasthecouldonlyconjecturehedescriedhowever a littlemeadowandpond lyingprobably inour coursewhichweconcluded to steer for On reaching this secluded meadow we found freshtracksofmooseontheshoreofthepondandthewaterwasstillunsettledasiftheyhad fledbeforeusA little farther inadense thicketwe seemed tobestillontheirtrailItwasasmallmeadowofafewacresonthemountain-sideconcealedbytheforestandperhapsneverseenbyawhitemanbeforewhereonewould think that themoosemight browse and bathe and rest in peacePursuing this course we soon reached the open land which went slopingdownsomemilestowardthePenobscotPerhaps I most fully realized that this was primeval untamed and foreveruntamableNatureorwhateverelsemencallitwhilecomingdownthispartof the mountainWe were passing over Burnt Lands burnt by lightningperchance thoughtheyshowednorecentmarksoffirehardlysomuchasacharredstumpbutlookedratherlikeanaturalpastureforthemooseanddeerexceedinglywildanddesolatewithoccasionalstripsoftimbercrossingthemand low poplars springing up and patches of blueberries here and there Ifoundmyself traversing them familiarly like some pasture run towaste orpartially reclaimedbymanbutwhen I reflectedwhatmanwhatbrotherorsisterorkinsmanofourracemadeitandclaimeditIexpectedtheproprietorto rise up and dispute my passage It is difficult to conceive of a regionuninhabited by man We habitually presume his presence and influenceeverywhereAndyetwehavenotseenpureNatureunlesswehaveseenherthus vast and drear and inhuman though in themidst of citiesNaturewasheresomethingsavageandawful thoughbeautifulI lookedwithaweat thegroundItrodontoseewhatthePowershadmadetheretheformandfashionandmaterialoftheirworkThiswasthatEarthofwhichwehaveheardmadeoutofChaosandOldNightHerewasnomansgardenbuttheunhandseledglobe It was not lawn nor pasture nor mead nor woodland nor lea norarablenorwastelandItwasthefreshandnaturalsurfaceoftheplanetEarthas it wasmade forever and evermdashto be the dwelling of man we saymdashsoNaturemadeitandmanmayuseit ifhecanManwasnot tobeassociatedwithitItwasMattervastterrificmdashnothisMotherEarththatwehaveheardof not for him to tread on or be buried inmdashno itwere being too familiar

eventolethisboneslietheremdashthehomethisofNecessityandFateTherewasclearlyfeltthepresenceofaforcenotboundtobekindtomanItwasaplaceforheathenismandsuperstitiousritesmdashtobeinhabitedbymennearerofkintotherocksandtowildanimalsthanweWewalkedoveritwithacertainawe stopping from time to time to pick the blueberrieswhich grew thereandhada smart and spicy tastePerchancewhereourwildpines stand andleaves lie on their forest floor in Concord there were once reapers andhusbandmenplantedgrainbutherenoteventhesurfacehadbeenscarredbymanbutitwasaspecimenofwhatGodsawfittomakethisworldWhatisittobe admitted to amuseum to see amyriadof particular things comparedwithbeingshownsomestarssurfacesomehardmatterinitshomeIstandinaweofmybody thismatter towhich Iamboundhasbecomesostrange tomeIfearnotspiritsghostsofwhichIamonemdashthatmybodymightmdashbutIfearbodiesItrembletomeetthemWhatisthisTitanthathaspossessionofmeTalkofmysteriesThinkofourlifeinnaturemdashdailytobeshownmattertocomeincontactwithitmdashrockstreeswindonourcheeksthesolidearththeactualworld thecommonsenseContactContactWhoarewewhereareweErelongwerecognizedsomerocksandotherfeaturesinthelandscapewhichwehadpurposely impressedonourmemoriesandquickeningourpacebytwooclockwereachedthebatteauHerewehadexpectedtodineontroutbutinthisglaringsunlighttheywereslowtotakethebaitsowewerecompelledtomakethemostof thecrumbsofourhard-breadandourporkwhichwereboth nearly exhaustedMeanwhilewe deliberatedwhetherwe should go uptheriveramilefarthertoGibsonsclearingontheSowadnehunkwheretherewasadesertedloghut inorder togetahalf-inchauger tomendoneofourspike-poleswith Therewere young spruce trees enough around us andwehad a spare spike but nothing tomake a holewithBut as itwas uncertainwhetherweshouldfindanytoolslefttherewepatchedupthebrokenpoleaswellaswecouldforthedownwardvoyageinwhichtherewouldbebutlittleuseforitMoreoverwewereunwillingtoloseanytimeinthisexpeditionlestthewindshouldrisebeforewereached the larger lakesanddetainus foramoderatewindproducesquiteaseaon thesewaters inwhichabatteauwillnot live for amoment and on one occasionMcCauslin had been delayed aweekattheheadoftheNorthTwinwhichisonlyfourmilesacrossWewerenearly out of provisions and ill prepared in this respect for what mightpossibly prove a weeks journey round by the shore fording innumerablestreams and threading a trackless forest should any accident happen to ourboatItwaswithregretthatweturnedourbacksonChesuncookwhichMcCauslinhadformerlyloggedonandtheAllegashlakesTherewerestilllongerrapidsandportagesaboveamongthelasttheRipogenusPortagewhichhedescribed

asthemostdifficultontheriverandthreemileslongThewholelengthofthePenobscotistwohundredandseventy-fivemilesandwearestillnearlyonehundredmilesfromitssourceHodgetheAssistantStateGeologistpassedupthisriverin1837andbyaportageofonlyonemileandthreequarterscrossedover into theAllegash and sowentdown that into theSt John andup theMadawaskato theGrandPortageacross to theStLawrenceHis is theonlyaccountthatIknowofanexpeditionthroughtoCanadainthisdirectionHethusdescribeshisfirstsightofthelatterriverwhichtocomparesmallthingswithgreatislikeBalboasfirstsightofthePacificfromthemountainsoftheIsthmusofDarienWhenwefirstcameinsightoftheStLawrencehesaysfrom the top of a high hill the view was most striking and much moreinterestingtomefromhavingbeenshutupinthewoodsforthetwopreviousmonthsDirectly before us lay the broad river extending across nine or tenmiles its surfacebrokenbya few islandsand reefs and twoships ridingatanchorneartheshoreBeyondextendedrangesofuncultivatedhillsparallelwith the river The sun was just going down behind them and gilding thewholescenewithitspartingraysAbout four oclock the same afternoon we commenced our return voyagewhichwould requirebut little if anypoling In shooting rapids theboatmenuselargeandbroadpaddlesinsteadofpolestoguidetheboatwithThoughweglidedsoswiftlyandoftensmoothlydownwhereithadcostusnoslightefforttogetupourpresentvoyagewasattendedwithfarmoredangerforifweoncefairlystruckoneofthethousandrocksbywhichweweresurroundedthe boat would be swamped in an instantWhen a boat is swamped underthese circumstances the boatmen commonly find no difficulty in keepingafloat at first for the current keepsboth themand their cargoup for a longwaydownthestreamandiftheycanswimtheyhaveonlytoworktheirwaygradually to the shore The greatest danger is of being caught in an eddybehind some larger rock where the water rushes up stream faster thanelsewhereitdoesdownandbeingcarriedroundandroundunderthesurfacetilltheyaredrownedMcCauslinpointedoutsomerockswhichhadbeenthesceneofafatalaccidentofthiskindSometimesthebodyisnotthrownoutforseveral hours He himself had performed such a circuit once only his legsbeingvisibletohiscompanionsbuthewasfortunatelythrownoutinseasontorecoverhisbreathInshootingtherapidstheboatmanhasthisproblemtosolve tochooseacircuitousandsafecourseamida thousandsunken rocksscattered over a quarter or half a mile at the same time that he is movingsteadily on at the rate of fifteen miles an hour Stop he cannot the onlyquestion iswherewill he goThe bowman chooses the coursewith all hiseyes abouthim strikingbroadoffwithhispaddle anddrawing theboatbymainforceintohercourseThesternmanfaithfullyfollowsthebowWeweresoonattheAboljacarmegusFallsAnxioustoavoidthedelayaswell

as the labor of the portage here our boatmen went forward first toreconnoitre and concluded to let the batteau down the falls carrying thebaggageonlyovertheportageJumpingfromrocktorockuntilnearlyinthemiddleofthestreamwewerereadytoreceivetheboatandletherdownoverthefirstfallsomesixorsevenfeetperpendicularTheboatmenstandupontheedgeofashelfofrockwherethefallisperhapsnineortenfeetperpendicularinfromonetotwofeetofrapidwateroneoneachsideoftheboatandletitslide gently over till the bow is run out ten or twelve feet in the air thenlettingitdropsquarelywhileoneholdsthepaintertheotherleapsinandhiscompanion following they are whirled down the rapids to a new fall or tosmooth water In a very few minutes they had accomplished a passage insafetywhichwouldbeasfoolhardyfortheunskillfultoattemptasthedescentofNiagaraitselfItseemedasifitneededonlyalittlefamiliarityandalittlemore skill to navigatedown such falls asNiagara itselfwith safetyAt anyrateIshouldnotdespairofsuchmenintherapidsaboveTableRockuntilIsaw them actually go over the falls so cool so collected so fertile inresourcesaretheyOnemighthavethoughtthatthesewerefallsandthatfallswerenot tobewaded throughwith impunity like amud-puddleTherewasreallydangeroftheirlosingtheirsublimityinlosingtheirpowertoharmusFamiliaritybreedscontemptTheboatmanpausesperchanceon someshelfbeneatha table-rockunder the fall standing in somecoveofbackwater twofeet deep and you hear his rough voice come up through the spray coollygivingdirectionshowtolaunchtheboatthistimeHaving carried roundPockwockomusFalls ouroars soonbrought us to theKatepskoneganorOakHallcarrywherewedecidedtocamphalf-wayoverleavingourbatteautobecarriedoverinthemorningonfreshshouldersOneshoulder of each of the boatmen showed a red spot as large as ones handwornbythebatteauonthisexpeditionandthisshoulderasitdidalltheworkwasperceptiblylowerthanitsfellowfromlongserviceSuchtoilsoonwearsoutthestrongestconstitutionThedriversareaccustomedtoworkinthecoldwater in the spring rarely ever dry and if one falls in all over he rarelychangeshisclothes tillnight if thenevenOnewhotakes thisprecautioniscalledbyaparticularnicknameoristurnedoffNonecanleadthislifewhoarenotalmostamphibiousMcCauslinsaidsoberlywhatisatanyrateagoodstorytotellthathehadseenwheresixmenwerewhollyunderwateratonceatajamwiththeirshoulderstohandspikesIfthelogdidnotstartthentheyhadtoputouttheirheadstobreatheThedriverworksaslongashecanseefrom dark to dark and at night has not time to eat his supper and dry hisclothes fairlybeforehe isasleeponhiscedarbedWe lay thatnighton theverybedmadebysuchapartystretchingourtentoverthepoleswhichwerestillstandingbutre-shinglingthedampandfadedbedwithfreshleavesInthemorningwecarriedourboatoverandlauncheditmakinghastelestthe

wind should rise The boatmen ran down Passamagamet and soon afterAmbejijisFallswhilewewalkedroundwith thebaggageWemadeahastybreakfast at the head of Ambejijis Lake on the remainder of our pork andwere soon rowingacross its smooth surface again under apleasant sky themountainbeingnowclearofcloudsinthenortheastTakingturnsattheoarsweshotrapidlyacrossDeepCove thefootofPamadumcookandtheNorthTwin at the rate of six miles an hour the wind not being high enough todisturbusand reached theDamatnoonTheboatmenwent throughoneofthe log sluices in thebatteauwhere the fallwas ten feet at thebottomandtookus inbelowHerewasthe longestrapid inourvoyageandperhaps therunning this was as dangerous and arduous a task as any Shooting downsometimesat the rate aswe judgedof fifteenmilesanhour ifwestruckarockweweresplitfromendtoendinaninstantNowlikeabaitbobbingforsome rivermonster amid theeddiesnowdarting to this sideof the streamnowtothatglidingswiftandsmoothneartoourdestructionorstrikingbroadoffwiththepaddleanddrawingtheboattorightorleftwithallourmightinordertoavoidarockIsupposethatitwaslikerunningtherapidsoftheSaultSainte Marie at the outlet of Lake Superior and our boatmen probablydisplayednolessdexteritythantheIndianstheredoWesoonranthroughthismileandfloatedinQuakishLakeAftersuchavoyage the troubledandangrywaterswhichoncehadseemedterribleandnottobetrifledwithappearedtamedandsubduedtheyhadbeenbeardedandworried in theirchannelsprickedandwhipped intosubmissionwiththespike-poleandpaddlegonethroughandthroughwithimpunityandall their spiritand theirdanger takenoutof themand themost swollenandimpetuous rivers seemed but playthings henceforth I began at length tounderstand the boatmans familiarity with and contempt for the rapidsThoseFowlerboyssaidMrsMcCauslinareperfectducksforthewaterThey had run down to Lincoln according to her thirty or fortymiles in abatteauinthenightforadoctorwhenitwassodarkthattheycouldnotseearodbefore them and the riverwas swollen so as to be almost a continuousrapidsothatthedoctorcriedwhentheybroughthimupbydaylightWhyTom how did you see to steer We didnt steer muchmdashonly kept herstraight And yet they met with no accident It is true the more difficultrapidsarehigherupthanthisWhenwereachedtheMillinocketoppositetoTomshouseandwerewaitingforhisfolkstosetusovermdashforwehadleftourbatteauabovetheGrandFallsmdashwe discovered two canoeswith twomen in each turning up this streamfromShadPond one keeping the opposite side of a small island before uswhile theotherapproached the sidewherewewere standing examining thebankscarefullyformuskratsastheycamealongThelastprovedtobeLouisNeptuneandhiscompanionnowatlastontheirwayuptoChesuncookafter

moose but they were so disguised that we hardly knew them At a littledistance theymight havebeen taken forQuakerswith their broad-brimmedhatsandovercoatswithbroadcapesthespoilsofBangorseekingasettlementin thisSylvaniamdashornearerathand for fashionablegentlemen themorningafteraspreeMetfacetofacetheseIndiansintheirnativewoodslookedlikethe sinister and slouching fellows whom you meet picking up strings andpaper in the streetsof a cityThere is in fact a remarkable andunexpectedresemblance between the degraded savage and the lowest classes in a greatcityTheone is nomore a childof nature than theother In theprogressofdegradation the distinction of races is soon lost Neptune at first was onlyanxioustoknowwhatwekillseeingsomepartridgesinthehandsofoneofthepartybutwehadassumedtoomuchangertopermitofareplyWethoughtIndianshadsomehonorbeforeButmdashMebeensickOhmeunwellnowYoumake bargain then me go They had in fact been delayed so long by adrunken frolic at the Five Islands and they had not yet recovered from itseffectsTheyhadsomeyoungmusquashintheircanoeswhichtheydugoutof thebankswithahoe for foodnot for theirskins formusquashare theirprincipalfoodontheseexpeditionsSotheywentonuptheMillinocketandwe kept down the bank of the Penobscot after recruiting ourselves with adraughtofTomsbeerleavingTomathishomeThus aman shall lead his life away here on the edge of thewilderness onIndianMillinocketStreaminanewworldfarinthedarkofacontinentandhaveaflutetoplayateveningherewhilehisstrainsechotothestarsamidthehowlingofwolvesshallliveasitwereintheprimitiveageoftheworlda primitivemanYet he shall spend a sunnyday and in this centurybemycontemporary perchance shall read some scattered leaves of literature andsometimes talk with me Why read history then if the ages and thegenerationsarenowHelivesthreethousandyearsdeepintotimeanagenotyetdescribedbypoetsCanyouwellgofurtherbackinhistorythanthisAyaymdashfor there turnsupbutnowinto themouthofMillinocketStreamastillmoreancientandprimitivemanwhosehistory isnotbroughtdowneven totheformerInabarkvesselsewnwiththerootsofthesprucewithhorn-beampaddleshedipshiswayalongHeisbutdimandmisty tomeobscuredbytheaeligonsthatliebetweenthebarkcanoeandthebatteauHebuildsnohouseof logs but a wigwam of skins He eats no hot bread and sweet cake butmusquashandmoosemeatandthefatofbearsHeglidesuptheMillinocketand is lost tomysight asamoredistantandmistycloud is seen flittingbybehindanearerandislostinspaceSohegoesabouthisdestinytheredfaceofmanAfter having passed the night and buttered our boots for the last time atUncle Georges whose dogs almost devoured him for joy at his return wekeptondowntheriverthenextdayabouteightmilesonfootandthentooka

batteauwithamantopoleit toMattawamkeagtenmoreAtthemiddleofthat very night tomake a swift conclusion to a long storywedroppedourbuggyoverthehalf-finishedbridgeatOldtownwhereweheardtheconfuseddinandclinkofahundredsawswhichneverrestandatsixoclockthenextmorningoneofthepartywassteaminghiswaytoMassachusettsWhat ismost striking in theMainewilderness is the continuousness of theforestwithfeweropenintervalsorgladesthanyouhadimaginedExceptthefewburnt lands thenarrowintervalson the rivers thebare topsof thehighmountains and the lakes and streams the forest is uninterrupted It is evenmoregrimandwildthanyouhadanticipatedadampandintricatewildernessin thespringeverywherewetandmiryTheaspectof thecountry indeed isuniversally stern and savage excepting the distant views of the forest fromhills and the lakeprospectswhich aremild and civilizing in a degreeThelakes are something which you are unprepared for they lie up so highexposed to the light and the forest is diminished to a fine fringe on theiredgeswithhereand thereabluemountain likeamethyst jewels set aroundsomejewelofthefirstwatermdashsoanteriorsosuperiortoallthechangesthataretotakeplaceontheirshoresevennowcivilandrefinedandfairastheycaneverbeThesearenot theartificial forestsof anEnglishkingmdasha royalpreserve merely Here prevail no forest laws but those of nature TheaborigineshaveneverbeendispossessednornaturedisforestedIt is a country full of evergreen trees of mossy silver birches and waterymaples the ground dotted with insipid small red berries and strewn withdampandmoss-grown rocksmdashacountrydiversifiedwith innumerable lakesand rapid streams peopled with trout and various species of leucisci withsalmon shad and pickerel and other fishes the forest resounding at rareintervalswiththenoteofthechickadeethebluejayandthewoodpeckerthescreamofthefishhawkandtheeaglethelaughoftheloonandthewhistleofducks along the solitary streams at night with the hooting of owls andhowling of wolves in summer swarming with myriads of black flies andmosquitoesmoreformidablethanwolvestothewhitemanSuchisthehomeofthemoosethebearthecaribouthewolfthebeaverandtheIndianWhoshalldescribetheinexpressibletendernessandimmortallifeofthegrimforestwhereNaturethoughitbemidwinter iseverinherspringwherethemoss-grownanddecayingtreesarenotoldbutseemtoenjoyaperpetualyouthandblissful innocentNature likea serene infant is toohappy tomakeanoiseexceptbyafewtinklinglispingbirdsandtricklingrillsWhataplacetolivewhataplacetodieandbeburiedinTherecertainlymenwouldliveforeverandlaughatdeathandthegraveTheretheycouldhavenosuchthoughtsasareassociatedwiththevillagegraveyardmdashthatmakeagraveoutofoneofthosemoistevergreenhummocks

DieandbeburiedwhowillImeantoliveherestillMynaturegrowsevermoreyoungTheprimitivepinesamongIamremindedbymyjourneyhowexceedinglynewthiscountrystillisYouhaveonlytotravelforafewdaysintotheinteriorandbackpartsevenofmanyof the old States to come to that very America which the Northmen andCabotandGosnoldandSmithandRaleighvisitedIfColumbuswasthefirsttodiscovertheislandsAmericusVespuciusandCabotandthePuritansandwetheirdescendantshavediscoveredonlytheshoresofAmericaWhiletheRepublichasalreadyacquiredahistoryworld-wideAmericaisstillunsettledandunexploredLiketheEnglishinNewHollandweliveonlyontheshoresofacontinentevenyetandhardlyknowwhere theriverscomefromwhichfloatournavyTheverytimberandboardsandshinglesofwhichourhousesaremadegrewbutyesterdayinawildernesswheretheIndianstillhuntsandthemoose runswildNewYorkhasherwildernesswithinherownbordersand though the sailors of Europe are familiar with the soundings of herHudsonandFultonlongsinceinventedthesteamboatonitswatersanIndianis still necessary to guide her scientific men to its headwaters in theAdirondackcountryHaveweevensomuchasdiscoveredandsettledtheshoresLetamantravelonfootalongthecoastfromthePassamaquoddytotheSabineortotheRioBravo or to wherever the end is now if he is swift enough to overtake itfaithfully following the windings of every inlet and of every cape andsteppingtothemusicofthesurfmdashwithadesolatefishingtownonceaweekandacitysportonceamonthtocheerhimandputtingupatthelighthouseswhen there are anymdashand tell me if it looks like a discovered and settledcountryandnotratherforthemostpartlikeadesolateislandandNo-MansLandWehaveadvancedbyleapstothePacificandleftmanyalesserOregonandCaliforniaunexploredbehindusThoughtherailroadandthe telegraphhavebeen establishedon the shores ofMaine the Indian still looks out fromherinteriormountainsoverall these to theseaTherestands thecityofBangorfiftymilesupthePenobscotattheheadofnavigationforvesselsofthelargestclasstheprincipallumberdepotonthiscontinentwithapopulationoftwelvethousandlikeastarontheedgeofnightstillhewingattheforestsofwhichitisbuiltalreadyoverflowingwiththeluxuriesandrefinementofEuropeandsending its vessels to Spain to England and to the West Indies for itsgroceriesmdashandyetonlyafewaxemenhavegoneupriverintothehowlingwildernesswhichfeedsitThebearanddeerarestillfoundwithinits limits

andthemooseasheswimsthePenobscotisentangledamiditsshippingandtakenbyforeignsailorsinitsharborTwelvemilesinthereartwelvemilesofrailroadareOronoandtheIndianIslandthehomeofthePenobscottribeandthen commence the batteau and the canoe and themilitary road and sixtymilesabovethecountryisvirtuallyunmappedandunexploredandtherestillwavesthevirginforestoftheNewWorld

CHESUNCOOK

AtfiveSeptember131853IleftBostoninthesteamerforBangorbytheoutsidecourseItwasawarmandstillnightmdashwarmerprobablyonthewaterthan on the landmdashand the sea was as smooth as a small lake in summermerelyrippledThepassengerswentsingingonthedeckasinaparlortilltenoclock We passed a vessel on her beam-ends on a rock just outside theislandsandsomeofusthoughtthatshewastheraptshipwhichranonhersidesolowThatshedrankwaterandherkeelploughedairnot considering that therewas nowind and that shewas under bare polesNowwe have left the islands behind and are off NahantWe behold thosefeatureswhich the discoverers saw apparently unchanged Nowwe see theCape Ann lights and now pass near a small village-like fleet of mackerelfishers at anchor probablyoffGloucesterThey saluteuswith a shout fromtheir lowdecks but I understand their Good-evening tomean Dont runagainstme sir From thewonders of the deepwe go below to yet deepersleepAnd then theabsurdityofbeingwakedup in thenightbyamanwhowants the jobofblackingyourboots It ismore inevitable thanseasicknessand may have something to do with it It is like the ducking you get oncrossingthelinethefirsttimeItrustedthattheseoldcustomswereabolishedTheymightwith the samepropriety insist onblackingyour face I heardofonemanwhocomplainedthatsomebodyhadstolenhisbootsinthenightandwhenhefoundthemhewantedtoknowwhattheyhaddonetothemmdashtheyhad spoiled themmdashhe never put that stuff on them and the bootblacknarrowlyescapedpayingdamagesAnxioustogetoutofthewhalesbellyIroseearlyandjoinedsomeoldsaltswhoweresmokingbyadimlightonashelteredpartofthedeckWewerejustgetting into the riverTheyknewall about itofcourse Iwasproud to findthat I had stood the voyage so well andwas not in the least digestedWebrushedupandwatchedthefirstsignsofdawnthroughanopenportbutthedayseemedtohangfireWeinquiredthetimenoneofmycompanionshada

chronometer At length an African prince rushed by observing TwelveoclockgentlemenandblewoutthelightItwasmoonriseSoIslunkdownintothemonstersbowelsagainThe first land we make is Monhegan Island before dawn and next StGeorgesIslandsseeingtwoorthreelightsWhiteheadwithitsbarerocksandfunerealbell isinterestingNextIrememberthattheCamdenHillsattractedmy eyes and afterward the hills about FrankfortWe reachedBangor aboutnoonWhenIarrivedmycompanionthatwastobehadgoneupriverandengagedan Indian JoeAitteon a sonof theGovernor togowithus toChesuncookLake Joe had conducted two white men a-moose-hunting in the samedirectiontheyearbeforeHearrivedbycarsatBangorthateveningwithhiscanoeandacompanionSabattisSolomonwhowasgoingtoleaveBangorthefollowingMondaywithJoesfatherbywayofthePenobscotandjoinJoeinmoose-huntingatChesuncookwhenwehaddonewithhimTheytooksupperatmyfriendshouseandlodgedinhisbarnsayingthattheyshouldfareworsethanthatinthewoodsTheyonlymadeWatchbarkalittlewhentheycametothedoorinthenightforwaterforhedoesnotlikeIndiansThe next morning Joe and his canoe were put on board the stage forMooseheadLakesixtyandoddmilesdistantanhourbeforewestartedinanopen wagon We carried hard-bread pork smoked beef tea sugar etcseemingly enough for a regiment the sight of which brought togetherremindedmebywhatignoblemeanswehadmaintainedourgroundhithertoWe went by the Avenue Road which is quite straight and very goodnorthwestward toward Moosehead Lake through more than a dozenflourishing towns with almost every one its academymdashnot one of whichhoweverisonmyGeneralAtlaspublishedalasin1824somucharetheybeforetheageorIbehinditTheearthmusthavebeenconsiderablylightertotheshouldersofGeneralAtlasthenIt rainedall thisdayand till themiddleof thenext forenoonconcealing thelandscapealmostentirelybutwehadhardlygotoutofthestreetsofBangorbeforeIbegan tobeexhilaratedby thesightof thewildfirandspruce topsand those of other primitive evergreens peering through the mist in thehorizonItwas like thesightandodorofcaketoaschoolboyHewhoridesandkeepsthebeatentrackstudiesthefenceschieflyNearBangorthefence-posts on account of the frosts heaving them in the clayey soil were notplanted in the ground but weremortised into a transverse horizontal beamlying on the surface Afterwards the prevailing fences were log ones withsometimesaVirginiafenceorelserailsslantedovercrossedstakesandthesezigzaggedorplayedleap-frogallthewaytothelakekeepingjustaheadofusAftergettingoutofthePenobscotvalleythecountrywasunexpectedlylevel

orconsistedofveryevenandequal swells for twentyor thirtymilesneverrisingabovethegenerallevelbutaffordingitissaidaverygoodprospectinclearweatherwithfrequentviewsofKtaadnmdashstraight roadsand longhillsThe houses were far apart commonly small and of one story but framedTherewasverylittlelandundercultivationyettheforestdidnotoftenbordertheroadThestumpswerefrequentlyashighasonesheadshowingthedepthofthesnowsThewhitehay-capsdrawnoversmallstacksofbeansorcorninthefieldsonaccountoftherainwereanovelsighttomeWesawlargeflocksof pigeons and several times camewithin a rod or two of partridges in theroadMycompanionsaidthatinonejourneyoutofBangorheandhissonhadshot sixty partridges from his buggy The mountain-ash was now veryhandsome as also the wayfarers-tree or hobble-bush with its ripe purpleberries mixed with red The Canada thistle an introduced plant was theprevailingweedallthewaytothelaketheroadsideinmanyplacesandfieldsnotlongclearedbeingdenselyfilledwithitaswithacroptotheexclusionofeverything else There were also whole fields full of ferns now rusty andwithering which in older countries are commonly confined to wet groundTherewereveryfewflowersevenallowingforthelatenessoftheseasonItchanced that I sawnoasters inbloomalong the road for fiftymiles thoughtheyweresoabundanttheninMassachusettsmdashexceptinoneplaceoneortwoof the Aster acuminatusmdashand no golden-rods till within twenty miles ofMonsonwhere I saw a three-ribbed one Thereweremany late buttercupshoweverandthetwofire-weedserechthitesandepilobiumcommonlywherethere had been a burning and at last the pearly everlasting I noticedoccasionally very long troughswhich supplied the roadwithwater andmycompanion said that threedollars annuallyweregrantedby theState to oneman in each school-district who provided andmaintained a suitablewater-trough by the roadside for the use of travelersmdasha piece of intelligence asrefreshingtomeasthewateritselfThatlegislaturedidnotsitinvainItwasan Oriental act which made me wish that I was still farther down EastmdashanotherMainelawwhichIhopewemaygetinMassachusettsThatStateisbanishingbar-roomsfromitshighwaysandconductingthemountainspringsthitherThe country was first decidedly mountainous in Garland Sangerville andonwards twenty-fiveor thirtymiles fromBangorAtSangervillewherewestoppedatmid-afternoontowarmanddryourselvesthelandlordtoldusthathehadfoundawildernesswherewefoundhimAtaforkintheroadbetweenAbbotandMonsonabouttwentymilesfromMooseheadLakeIsawaguide-postsurmountedbyapairofmoosehornsspreadingfourorfivefeetwiththewordMonsonpaintedononebladeandthenameofsomeothertownontheotherTheyaresometimesusedforornamentalhat-treestogetherwithdeershornsinfrontentriesbutaftertheexperiencewhichIshallrelateItrustthat

IshallhaveabetterexcuseforkillingamoosethanthatImayhangmyhatonhishornsWereachedMonsonfiftymilesfromBangorandthirteenfromthelakeafterdarkAtfouroclockthenextmorninginthedarkandstillintherainwepursuedour journey Close to the academy in this town they have erected a sort ofgallowsforthepupilstopracticeonIthoughtthattheymightaswellhangatonce allwhoneed to go through such exercises in sonewa countrywherethere isnothing tohinder their livinganoutdoor lifeBetteromitBlair andtaketheairThecountryaboutthesouthendofthelakeisquitemountainousand the road began to feel the effects of it There is one hill which it iscalculatedittakestwenty-fiveminutestoascendInmanyplacestheroadwasin that condition called repaired having just beenwhittled into the requiredsemicylindrical form with the shovel and scraper with all the softestinequalitiesinthemiddlelikeahogsbackwiththebristlesupandJehuwasexpectedtokeepastrideofthespineAsyoulookedoffeachsideofthebaresphereintothehorizontheditcheswereawfultobeholdmdashavasthollownesslike that between Saturn and his ring At a tavern hereabouts the hostlergreeted our horse as an old acquaintance though he did not remember thedriverHesaidthathehadtakencareofthatlittlemareforashorttimeayearortwobeforeattheMountKineoHouseandthoughtshewasnotinasgoodconditionas thenEveryman tohis trade IamnotacquaintedwithasinglehorseintheworldnoteventheonethatkickedmeAlreadywehadthoughtthatwesawMooseheadLakefromahilltopwhereanextensivefogfilledthedistantlowlandsbutweweremistakenItwasnottillwewerewithinamileortwoofitssouthendthatwegotourfirstviewofitmdasha suitably wild-looking sheet of water sprinkled with small low islandswhichwerecoveredwithshaggyspruceandotherwildwoodmdashseenovertheinfantportofGreenvillewithmountainsoneachsideandfarinthenorthandasteamerssmoke-piperisingabovearoofApairofmoose-hornsornamentedacornerofthepublichousewhereweleftourhorseandafewrodsdistantlaythe small steamerMoosehead Captain King There was no village and nosummer road any farther in this direction but a winter road that is onepassableonlywhendeepsnowcoversitsinequalitiesfromGreenvilleuptheeastsideofthelaketoLilyBayabouttwelvemilesIwasherefirstintroducedtoJoeHehadriddenallthewayontheoutsideofthe stage the day before in the rain giving way to ladies and was wellwettedAsitstillrainedheaskedifweweregoingtoputitthroughHewasa good-looking Indian twenty-four years old apparently of unmixed bloodshortandstoutwithabroadfaceandreddishcomplexionandeyesmethinksnarrowerandmoreturnedupattheoutercornersthanoursansweringtothedescriptionofhisraceBesideshisunderclothingheworearedflannelshirt

woolenpantsandablackKossuthhattheordinarydressofthelumbermanand to a considerable extent of the Penobscot IndianWhen afterward hehad occasion to take off his shoes and stockings I was struck with thesmallness of his feet He had worked a good deal as a lumberman andappearedtoidentifyhimselfwiththatclassHewastheonlyoneofthepartywhopossessedanindia-rubberjacketThetopstriporedgeofhiscanoewaswornnearlythroughbyfrictiononthestageAt eight oclock the steamer with her bell and whistle scaring the moosesummonedusonboardShewasawell-appointedlittleboatcommandedbyagentlemanly captainwith patent life-seats andmetallic life-boat anddinneronboardifyouwishSheischieflyusedbylumberersforthetransportationofthemselvestheirboatsandsuppliesbutalsobyhuntersandtouristsTherewasanothersteamernamedAmphitritelaidupclosebybutapparentlyhername was not more trite than her hull There were also two or three largesailboats inportThesebeginningsofcommerceona lake in thewildernessareveryinterestingmdashtheselargerwhitebirdsthatcometokeepcompanywiththegullsTherewerebutfewpassengersandnotonefemaleamongthemaStFrancisIndianwithhiscanoeandmoose-hidestwoexplorersforlumberthreemenwholandedatSandbarIslandandagentlemanwholivesonDeerIslandelevenmilesupthelakeandownsalsoSugarIslandbetweenwhichand theformer thesteamerruns these I thinkwereallbesideourselves Inthesaloonwassomekindofmusical instrumentmdashcherubimorseraphimmdashtosoothetheangrywavesandthereveryproperlywastackedupthemapofthepubliclandsofMaineandMassachusettsacopyofwhichIhadinmypocketThe heavy rain confining us to the saloon awhile I discoursed with theproprietor of Sugar Island on the condition of the world in Old TestamenttimesButat length leaving this subjectas freshaswe found ithe toldmethathehadlivedaboutthislaketwentyorthirtyyearsandyethadnotbeentotheheadofitfortwenty-oneyearsHefacestheotherwayTheexplorershada finenewbirchonboard larger thanours inwhich theyhadcomeup thePiscataquisfromHowlandandtheyhadhadseveralmessesoftroutalreadyTheyweregoingtotheneighborhoodofEagleandChamberlainlakesorthehead-watersoftheStJohnandofferedtokeepuscompanyasfaraswewentThelaketo-daywasrougherthanIfoundtheoceaneithergoingorreturningand Joe remarked that itwould swamphisbirchOffLilyBay it is adozenmileswidebutitismuchbrokenbyislandsThesceneryisnotmerelywildbutvariedandinterestingmountainswereseenfartherorneareronallsidesbut thenorthwest theirsummitsnowlost in thecloudsbutMountKineo isthe principal feature of the lake and more exclusively belongs to it AfterleavingGreenvilleat thefootwhichis thenucleusofa townsomeeightortenyearsoldyouseebutthreeorfourhousesforthewholelengthofthelakeoraboutfortymiles threeof themthepublichousesatwhichthesteameris

advertised to stop and the shore is an unbrokenwilderness The prevailingwood seemed to be spruce fir birch and rock maple You could easilydistinguishthehardwoodfromthesoftorblackgrowthasitiscalledatagreatdistancetheformerbeingsmoothround-toppedandlightgreenwithaboweryandcultivatedlookMountKineoatwhich theboat touched isapeninsulawithanarrowneckaboutmidwaythelakeontheeastsideThecelebratedprecipiceisontheeastorlandsideofthisandissohighandperpendicularthatyoucanjumpfromthetopmanyhundredfeetintothewaterwhichmakesupbehindthepointAmanon board told us that an anchor had been sunkninety fathoms at itsbasebeforereachingbottomProbablyitwillbediscoverederelongthatsomeIndian maiden jumped off it for love once for true love never could havefoundapathmoretoitsmindWepassedquiteclosetotherockheresinceitisaveryboldshoreandIobservedmarksofariseoffourorfivefeetonitTheStFrancisIndianexpectedtotakeinhisboyherebuthewasnotatthelandingThefatherssharpeyeshoweverdetectedacanoewithhisboyinitfarawayunder themountain thoughnooneelsecouldsee itWhere is thecanoeaskedthecaptainIdontseeitbutheheldonneverthelessandbyandbyithoveinsightWe reached the head of the lake about noon The weather had in themeanwhile clearedup though themountainswere still cappedwith cloudsSeen from this pointMountKineo and twoother alliedmountains rangingwithitnortheasterlypresentedaverystrongfamilylikenessas ifallcast inone mould The steamer here approached a long pier projecting from thenorthernwildernessandbuiltofsomeof its logsandwhistledwherenotacabinnoramortalwastobeseenTheshorewasquitelowwithflatrocksonitoverhungwithblackasharbor-vitaeligetcwhichatfirstlookedasiftheydidnotcareawhistle forusTherewasnotasinglecabman tocryCoachorinveigleus to theUnitedStatesHotelAt length aMrHinckleywhohas acampattheotherendofthecarryappearedwithatruckdrawnbyanoxandahorseoverarudelog-railwaythroughthewoodsThenextthingwastogetour canoe and effects over the carry from this lake oneof the heads of theKennebec into thePenobscotRiverThis railway from the lake to the riveroccupiedthemiddleofaclearingtwoorthreerodswideandperfectlystraightthrough the forestWewalked acrosswhileourbaggagewasdrawnbehindMy companion went ahead to be ready for partridges while I followedlookingattheplantsThiswas an interesting botanical locality for one coming from the south tocommencewithformanyplantswhichareratherrareandoneortwowhichare not found at all in the eastern part ofMassachusetts grew abundantlybetweentherailsmdashasLabrador-teaKalmiaglaucaCanadablueberry(which

wasstillinfruitandasecondtimeinbloom)ClintoniaandLinnaeligaborealiswhich last a lumberer called moxon creeping snowberry painted trilliumlarge-flowered bellwort etc I fancied that the Aster Radula Diplopappusumbellatus Solidago lanceolata red trumpet-weed and many others whichwereconspicuouslyinbloomontheshoreofthelakeandonthecarryhadapeculiarlywildandprimitivelookthereThespruceandfirtreescrowdedtothetrackoneachsidetowelcomeusthearbor-vitaeligwithitschangingleavespromptedustomakehasteandthesightofthecanoebirchgaveusspiritstodo so Sometimes an evergreen just fallen lay across the trackwith its richburden of cones looking still fuller of life than our trees in the mostfavorablepositionsYoudidnotexpect to findsuchspruce trees in thewildwoods but they evidently attend to their toilets each morning even thereThroughsuchafrontyarddidweenterthatwildernessTherewasaveryslightriseabovethelakemdashthecountryappearinglikeandperhaps being partly a swampmdashand at length a gradual descent to thePenobscotwhichIwassurprisedtofindherealargestreamfromtwelvetofifteenrodswideflowingfromwesttoeastoratrightangleswiththelakeandnotmorethantwoandahalfmilesfromitThedistanceisnearlytwicetoogreatontheMapofthePublicLandsandonColtonsMapofMaineandRussellStreamisplacedtoofardownJacksonmakesMooseheadLaketobeninehundredandsixtyfeetabovehighwater inPortlandharbor It ishigherthanChesuncookforthelumberersconsiderthePenobscotwherewestruckittwenty-fivefeetlowerthanMooseheadthougheightmilesaboveitissaidtobe thehighest so that thewatercanbemade to floweitherwayand theriver falls a gooddeal betweenhere andChesuncookThe carry-man calledthis about one hundred and forty miles above Bangor by the river or twohundred from the ocean and fifty-fivemiles belowHiltons on theCanadaroadthefirstclearingabovewhichisfourandahalfmilesfromthesourceofthePenobscotAtthenorthendofthecarryinthemidstofaclearingofsixtyacresormoretherewas a log campof theusual constructionwith somethingmore like ahouseadjoiningfortheaccommodationofthecarry-mansfamilyandpassinglumberers The bed ofwithered fir twigs smelled very sweet though reallyverydirtyTherewasalsoa store-houseon thebankof the rivercontainingporkflourironbatteauxandbircheslockedupWenowproceededtogetourdinnerwhichalwaysturnedouttobeteaandtopitchcanoesforwhichpurposealargeironpotlaypermanentlyonthebankThiswe did in companywith the explorers Both Indians andwhites use amixtureofrosinandgreasefor thispurpose that is for thepitchingnot thedinner Joe took a small brand from the fire and blew the heat and flameagainstthepitchonhisbirchandsomeltedandspreaditSometimesheput

hismouthoverthesuspectedspotandsuckedtoseeifitadmittedairandatone place where we stopped he set his canoe high on crossed stakes andpouredwaterintoitInarrowlywatchedhismotionsandlistenedattentivelytohisobservationsforwehademployedanIndianmainlythatImighthaveanopportunitytostudyhiswaysIheardhimswearoncemildlyduringthisoperationabouthisknifebeingasdullasahoemdashanaccomplishmentwhichhe owed to his intercoursewith thewhites and he remarked Weought tohavesometeabeforewestartweshallbehungrybeforewekillthatmooseAtmid-afternoonweembarkedonthePenobscotOurbirchwasnineteenandahalffeetlongbytwoandahalfatthewidestpartandfourteeninchesdeepwithin both ends alike and painted green which Joe thought affected thepitch andmade it leakThis I thinkwas amiddling-sizedoneThat of theexplorerswasmuchlargerthoughprobablynotmuchlongerThiscarriedusthreewithourbaggageweighinginallbetweenfivehundredandfiftyandsixhundredpoundsWehadtwoheavythoughslenderrock-maplepaddlesoneofthemofbirds-eyemapleJoeplacedbirch-barkonthebottomforustositonandslantedcedarsplintsagainstthecross-barstoprotectourbackswhilehehimselfsatuponacross-barinthesternThebaggageoccupiedthemiddleorwidestpartofthecanoeWealsopaddledbyturnsinthebowsnowsittingwithour legs extendednowsittinguponour legs andnow risinguponourkneesbutIfoundnoneofthesepositionsendurableandwasremindedofthecomplaintsoftheoldJesuitmissionariesofthetorturetheyenduredfromlongconfinement in constrained positions in canoes in their long voyages fromQuebectotheHuroncountrybutafterwardsIsatonthecross-barsorstoodupandexperiencednoinconvenienceItwasdeadwater foracoupleofmilesTheriverhadbeenraisedabout twofeet by the rain and lumberers were hoping for a flood sufficient to bringdownthelogsthatwereleft inthespringItsbanksweresevenoreightfeethighanddenselycoveredwithwhiteandblacksprucemdashwhichIthinkmustbethecommonesttreesthereaboutsmdashfirarbor-vitaeligcanoeyellowandblackbirchrockmountainandafewredmaplesbeechblackandmountainashthelarge-toothedaspenmanycivil-lookingelmsnowimbrownedalongthestream and at first a fewhemlocks alsoWe had not gone far before IwasstartledbyseeingwhatIthoughtwasanIndianencampmentcoveredwitharedflagonthebankandexclaimedCamptomycomradesIwasslowtodiscover that itwasaredmaplechangedbythefrostTheimmediateshoreswerealsodenselycoveredwiththespeckledalderredosiershrubbywillowsor sallows and the like There were a few yellow lily pads still left half-drowned along the sides and sometimes awhite oneMany fresh tracksofmoosewere visiblewhere thewaterwas shallow and on the shore the lilystemswerefreshlybittenoffbythem

After paddling about twomilesweparted companywith the explorers andturned upLobster Streamwhich comes in on the right from the southeastThiswassixoreightrodswideandappearedtorunnearlyparallelwiththePenobscotJoesaidthatitwassocalledfromsmallfresh-waterlobstersfoundin it It is theMatahumkeagof themapsMycompanionwished to look formoosesignsandintendedifitprovedworththewhiletocampupthatwaysincetheIndianadviseditOnaccountoftheriseofthePenobscotthewaterran up this stream to the pond of the same name one or two miles TheSpencerMountains east of the north end ofMooseheadLakewere now inplain sight in front of us The kingfisher flew before us the pigeonwoodpeckerwasseenandheardandnuthatchesandchickadeescloseathandJoesaidthattheycalledthechickadeekecunnilessuinhislanguageIwillnotvouch for the spelling of what possibly was never spelt before but IpronouncedafterhimtillhesaiditwoulddoWepassedclosetoawoodcockwhich stood perfectly still on the shorewith feathers puffed up as if sickThisJoesaidtheycallednipsquecohossusThekingfisherwasskuscumonsuckbearwaswassus Indian devil lunxus themountain-ash upahsis ThiswasveryabundantandbeautifulMoosetrackswerenotsofreshalongthisstreamexceptinasmallcreekaboutamileupitwherealargeloghadlodgedinthespringmarkedW-cross-girdle-crow-footWesawapairofmoose-hornsontheshoreandIaskedJoeifamoosehadshedthembuthesaidtherewasaheadattachedtothemandIknewthattheydidnotshedtheirheadsmorethanonceintheirlivesAfterascendingaboutamileandahalftowithinashortdistanceofLobsterLakewereturnedto thePenobscotJustbelowthemouthof theLobsterwefoundquickwater and the riverexpanded to twentyor thirty rods inwidthThemoose-trackswerequitenumerousandfreshhereWenoticedinagreatmanyplacesnarrowandwell-troddenpathsbywhichtheyhadcomedowntotheriverandwheretheyhadslidonthesteepandclayeybankTheirtrackswereeitherclosetotheedgeofthestreamthoseofthecalvesdistinguishablefromtheothersor inshallowwater theholesmadeby their feet in thesoftbottombeingvisibleforalongtimeTheywereparticularlynumerouswherethere was a small bay or pokelogan as it is called bordered by a strip ofmeadoworseparatedfromtheriverbya lowpeninsulacoveredwithcoarsegrasswool-grassetcwhereintheyhadwadedbackandforthandeatenthepadsWedetectedtheremainsofoneinsuchaspotAtoneplacewherewelandedtopickupasummerduckwhichmycompanionhadshotJoepeeledacanoebirchforbarkforhishunting-hornHethenaskedifwewerenotgoingtogettheotherduckforhissharpeyeshadseenanotherfallinthebushesalittlefartheralongandmycompanionobtaineditInowbegantonoticethebright red berries of the tree-cranberry which grows eight or ten feet highmingledwiththealdersandcornelalongtheshoreTherewaslesshardwood

thanatfirstAfterproceedingamileandthreequartersbelowthemouthoftheLobsterwereached about sundown a small island at the head of what Joe called theMoosehornDeadwater (theMoosehorn inwhich hewas going to hunt thatnight coming in about threemiles below) andon theupper endof thiswedecidedtocampOnapointatthelowerendlaythecarcassofamoosekilledamonthormorebeforeWeconcludedmerelytoprepareourcampandleaveour baggage here that all might be ready when we returned from moose-huntingThoughIhadnotcomea-huntingandfeltsomecompunctionsaboutaccompanyingthehuntersIwishedtoseeamoosenearathandandwasnotsorry to learn how the Indian managed to kill one I went as reporter orchaplain to the huntersmdashand the chaplain has been known to carry a gunhimselfAfterclearingasmallspaceamidthedensespruceandfir treeswecovered the damp groundwith a shingling of fir twigs andwhile Joewaspreparing his birch horn and pitching his canoemdashfor this had to be donewheneverwestoppedlongenoughtobuildafireandwastheprincipallaborwhichhe tookuponhimself at such timesmdashwecollected fuel for thenightlargewetandrottinglogswhichhadlodgedattheheadoftheislandforourhatchetwastoosmallforeffectivechoppingbutwedidnotkindleafirelestthemooseshouldsmellitJoesetupacoupleofforkedstakesandpreparedhalfadozenpolesreadytocastoneofourblanketsoverincaseitrainedinthe night which precaution however was omitted the next nightWe alsopluckedtheduckswhichhadbeenkilledforbreakfastWhilewewerethusengagedinthetwilightweheardfaintlyfromfardownthe streamwhat sounded like two strokes of awoodchoppers axe echoingdullythroughthegrimsolitudeWearewonttolikenmanysoundsheardatadistanceintheforesttothestrokeofanaxebecausetheyresembleeachotherunderthosecircumstancesandthatistheonewecommonlyhearthereWhenwetoldJoeofthisheexclaimedByGeorgeIllbetthatwasamooseTheymakeanoiselikethatThesesoundsaffectedusstrangelyandbytheirveryresemblancetoafamiliaronewheretheyprobablyhadsodifferentanoriginenhancedtheimpressionofsolitudeandwildnessAt starlightwe dropped down the streamwhichwas a deadwater for threemilesorasfarastheMoosehornJoetellingusthatwemustbeverysilentand he himselfmaking no noisewith his paddle while he urged the canoealongwitheffectiveimpulsesItwasastillnightandsuitableforthispurposemdashforifthereiswindthemoosewillsmellyoumdashandJoewasveryconfidentthatheshouldgetsomeTheHarvestMoonhadjustrisenandits levelraysbegan to light up the forest on our rightwhilewe glided downward in theshadeon the same side against the little breeze thatwas stirringThe loftyspiring topsof the spruceand firwereveryblackagainst the skyandmore

distinct thanbydaycloseborderingthisbroadavenueoneachsideandthebeautyofthesceneasthemoonroseabovetheforestitwouldnotbeeasytodescribeAbatflewoverourheadsandweheardafewfaintnotesofbirdsfromtimetotimeperhapsthemyrtle-birdforoneorthesuddenplungeofamusquashorsawonecrossingthestreambeforeusorheardthesoundofarill emptying in swollen by the recent rainAbout amile below the islandwhen the solitude seemed to be growingmore complete everymomentwesuddenly saw the light and heard the crackling of a fire on the bank anddiscoveredthecampofthetwoexplorerstheystandingbeforeitintheirredshirtsand talkingaloudof theadventuresandprofitsof thedayTheywerejust then speaking of a bargain in which as I understood somebody hadcleared twenty-five dollarsWe glided bywithout speaking close under thebankwithinacoupleofrodsof themandJoe takinghishorn imitatedthecallofthemoosetillwesuggestedthattheymightfireonusThiswasthelastwesawofthemandweneverknewwhethertheydetectedorsuspectedusIhaveoftenwishedsincethatIwaswiththemTheysearchfortimberoveragiven section climbing hills and often high trees to look off explore thestreamsbywhichitistobedrivenandthelikespendfiveorsixweeksinthewoods they two alone a hundred miles or more from any town roamingabout and sleeping on the ground where night overtakes them dependingchiefly on the provisions they carry with them though they do not declinewhatgametheycomeacrossandtheninthefalltheyreturnandmakereporttotheiremployersdeterminingthenumberofteamsthatwillberequiredthefollowing winter Experienced men get three or four dollars a day for thiswork It is a solitary and adventurous life and comes nearest to that of thetrapperoftheWestperhapsTheyworkeverwithagunaswellasanaxelettheir beards grow and livewithout neighbors not on anopenplain but farwithinawildernessThisdiscoveryaccountedfor thesoundswhichwehadheardanddestroyedthe prospect of seeing moose yet awhile At length when we had left theexplorersfarbehindJoelaiddownhispaddledrewforthhisbirchhornmdashastraightoneaboutfifteenincheslongandthreeorfourwideatthemouthtiedroundwithstripsofthesamebarkmdashandstandingupimitatedthecallofthemoosemdashugh-ugh-ughoroo-oo-oo-ooandthenaprolongedoo-o-o-o-o-o-o-o and listened attentively for several minutesWe asked himwhat kind ofnoise he expected to hear He said that if amoose heard it he guessedweshouldfindoutweshouldhearhimcominghalfamileoffhewouldcomeclosetoperhapsintothewaterandmycompanionmustwaittillhegotfairsightandthenaimjustbehindtheshoulderThemooseventureouttotheriversidetofeedanddrinkatnightEarlierintheseasonthehuntersdonotuseahorntocallthemoutbutstealuponthemas

theyarefeedingalongthesidesof thestreamandoftenthefirstnoticetheyhave of one is the sound of thewater dropping from itsmuzzleAn IndianwhomIheardimitatethevoiceofthemooseandalsothatofthecaribouandthedeerusingamuchlongerhornthanJoes toldmethatthefirstcouldbeheard eight or tenmiles sometimes itwas a loud sort of bellowing soundclearer andmore sonorous than the lowing of cattle the caribous a sort ofsnortandthesmalldeerslikethatofalambAtlengthweturneduptheMoosehornwheretheIndiansatthecarryhadtoldusthattheykilledamoosethenightbeforeThisisaverymeanderingstreamonlya rodor two inwidthbut comparativelydeep coming inon the rightfitlyenoughnamedMoosehornwhetherfromitswindingsoritsinhabitantsItwasborderedhere and therebynarrowmeadowsbetween the streamandtheendlessforestaffordingfavorableplacesforthemoosetofeedandtocallthemoutonWeproceededhalfamileupthisas throughanarrowwindingcanalwherethetalldarkspruceandfirsandarbor-vitaeligtoweredonbothsidesinthemoonlightformingaperpendicularforest-edgeofgreatheightlikethespiresofaVeniceintheforestIntwoplacesstoodasmallstackofhayonthebankreadyforthelumberersuseinthewinterlookingstrangeenoughthereWethoughtofthedaywhenthismightbeabrookwindingthroughsmooth-shavenmeadowsonsomegentlemansgroundsandseenbymoonlight thenexceptingtheforestthatnowhemsitinhowlittlechangeditwouldappearAgain and again Joe called the moose placing the canoe close by somefavorable point ofmeadow for them to comeout on but listened in vain tohearonecomerushingthroughthewoodsandconcludedthattheyhadbeenhuntedtoomuchthereaboutsWesawmanytimeswhattoourimaginationslookedlikeagiganticmoosewithhishornspeeringfromouttheforestedgebutwe saw the forest only and not its inhabitants that night So at lastweturnedaboutTherewasnowa little fogon thewater though itwas a fineclear night above Therewere very few sounds to break the stillness of theforestSeveraltimesweheardthehootingofagreathornedowlasathomeand toldJoe thathewouldcallout themoose forhim forhemadeasoundconsiderably like thehorn but Joe answered that themoosehadheard thatsoundathousandtimesandknewbetterandoftenerstillwewerestartledbythe plunge of a musquash Once when Joe had called again and we werelistening for moose we heard come faintly echoing or creeping from farthroughthemoss-cladaislesadulldryrushingsoundwithasolidcoretoityetasifhalfsmotheredunderthegraspoftheluxuriantandfungus-likeforestlike the shutting of a door in some distant entry of the damp and shaggywildernessIfwehadnotbeentherenomortalhadhearditWhenweaskedJoe in awhisperwhat it was he answered Tree fall There is somethingsingularly grand and impressive in the sound of a tree falling in a perfectlycalmnightlikethisasiftheagencieswhichoverthrowitdidnotneedtobe

excitedbutworkedwithasubtledeliberateandconsciousforcelikeaboa-constrictorandmoreeffectivelythenthaneveninawindydayIfthereisanysuchdifferenceperhapsitisbecausetreeswiththedewsofthenightonthemareheavierthanbydayHavingreachedthecampabouttenoclockwekindledourfireandwenttobed Each of us had a blanket in which he lay on the fir twigs with hisextremitiestowardthefirebutnothingoverhisheadItwasworththewhiletoliedowninacountrywhereyoucouldaffordsuchgreatfiresthatwasonewholesideandthebrightsideofourworldWehadfirstrolledupalargelogsomeeighteeninchesthroughandtenfeetlongforabacklogtolastallnightandthenpiledonthetrees to theheightof threeorfourfeetnomatterhowgreen or damp In factwe burned asmuchwood that night aswouldwitheconomy and an air-tight stove last a poor family in one of our cities allwinter Itwasveryagreeableaswellas independent thus lying in theopenair and the fire kept our uncovered extremities warm enough The Jesuitmissionaries used to say that in their journeyswith the Indians inCanadatheylayonabedwhichhadneverbeenshakenupsincethecreationunlessbyearthquakes It is surprising with what impunity and comfort one who hasalwayslaininawarmbedinacloseapartmentandstudiouslyavoideddraftsofaircanliedownonthegroundwithoutashelterrollhimselfinablanketandsleepbeforeafire inafrostyautumnnight justafteralongrain-stormandevencomesoontoenjoyandvaluethefreshairI lay awake awhilewatching the ascent of the sparks through the firs andsometimes their descent in half-extinguished cinders on my blanket Theywereasinterestingasfireworksgoingupinendlesssuccessivecrowdseachafter an explosion in an eager serpentine course some to five or six rodsabove the tree-tops before theywent outWedonot suspect howmuchourchimneyshaveconcealedandnowair-tightstoveshavecometoconcealalltherestInthecourseofthenightIgotuponceortwiceandputfreshlogsonthefiremakingmycompanionscurluptheirlegsWhen we awoke in the morning (Saturday September 17) there wasconsiderablefrostwhiteningtheleavesWeheardthesoundofthechickadeeandafewfaintlylispingbirdsandalsoofducksinthewaterabouttheislandItookabotanicalaccountofstockofourdomainsbeforethedewwasoffandfound that the ground-hemlock or American yew was the prevailingundershrubWebreakfastedonteahard-breadandducksBeforethefoghadfairlyclearedawaywepaddleddownthestreamagainandwere soon past the mouth of the Moosehorn These twenty miles of thePenobscot between Moosehead and Chesuncook lakes are comparativelysmooth and a great part deadwater but from time to time it is shallowandrapid with rocks or gravel beds where you can wade across There is no

expanseofwaterandnobreakintheforestandthemeadowisamereedginghereandthereTherearenohillsneartherivernorwithinsightexceptoneortwodistantmountainsseeninafewplacesThebanksarefromsixtotenfeethighbutonceortwicerisegentlytohighergroundInmanyplacestheforeston the bank was but a thin strip letting the light through from some alderswamp ormeadow behind The conspicuous berry-bearing bushes and treesalong the shore were the red osier with its whitish fruit hobble-bushmountain-ash tree-cranberry choke-cherry now ripe alternate cornel andnakedviburnumFollowingJoesexampleIatethefruitofthelastandalsoof the hobble-bush but found them rather insipid and seedy I looked verynarrowly at the vegetation as we glided along close to the shore andfrequentlymade Joe turn aside forme to pluck a plant that Imight see bycomparisonwhatwasprimitiveaboutmynativeriverHorehoundhorse-mintand the sensitive ferngrewclose to the edge under thewillows and aldersandwool-grassontheislandsasalongtheAssabetRiverinConcordItwastoolateforflowersexceptafewastersgoldenrodsetcInseveralplaceswenoticedtheslightframeofacampsuchaswehadpreparedtosetupamidtheforestby theriversidewheresomelumberersorhuntershadpassedanightandsometimesstepscutinthemuddyorclayeybankinfrontofitWestopped to fish for troutat themouthofa small streamcalledRagmuffwhich came in from thewest about twomiles below theMoosehornHerewere the ruins of an old lumbering-camp and a small space which hadformerlybeenclearedandburnedoverwasnowdenselyovergrownwiththered cherry and raspberriesWhilewewere trying for trout Joe Indian-likewanderedoffuptheRagmuffonhisownerrandsandwhenwewerereadytostartwas farbeyondcallSowewerecompelled tomakea fireandgetourdinner here not to lose time Some dark reddish birdswith grayer females(perhaps purple finches) and myrtle-birds in their summer dress hoppedwithinsixoreightfeetofusandoursmokePerhapstheysmelledthefryingporkThelatterbirdorbothmadethelispingnoteswhichIhadheardintheforestTheysuggestedthatthefewsmallbirdsfoundinthewildernessareonmorefamiliartermswiththelumbermanandhunterthanthoseoftheorchardand clearing with the farmer I have since found the Canada jay andpartridgesboththeblackandthecommonequallytamethereasiftheyhadnotyetlearnedtomistrustmanentirelyThechickadeewhichisathomealikeintheprimitivewoodsandinourwood-lotsstillretainsitsconfidenceinthetownstoaremarkabledegreeJoeatlengthreturnedafteranhourandahalfandsaidthathehadbeentwomilesupthestreamexploringandhadseenamoosebutnothavingthegunhedidnotgethimWemadenocomplaintbutconcludedtolookoutforJoethenext timeHowever thismayhavebeen ameremistake forwehadnoreason to complain of him afterwardsAswe continued down the stream I

wassurprisedtohearhimwhistlingOSusannaandseveralothersuchairswhile his paddle urged us along Once he said Yes sir-ee His commonwordwasSartainHepaddledasusualononesideonlygivingthebirchanimpulsebyusingthesideasafulcrumIaskedhimhowtheribswerefastenedto the side railsHeanswered Idontknow InevernoticedTalkingwithhimaboutsubsistingwhollyonwhatthewoodsyieldedmdashgamefishberriesetcmdashIsuggestedthathisancestorsdidsobutheansweredthathehadbeenbroughtupinsuchawaythathecouldnotdoitYessaidhethatsthewaytheygotalivinglikewildfellowswildasbearsByGeorgeIshantgointothewoodswithout provisionmdashhard-bread pork etcHe had brought on abarrelofhard-breadandstoreditatthecarryforhishuntingHoweverthoughhewasaGovernorssonhehadnotlearnedtoreadAtoneplacebelowthisontheeastsidewherethebankwashigheranddrierthan usual rising gently from the shore to a slight elevation some one hadfelled the trees over twenty or thirty acres and left themdrying in order toburnThiswastheonlypreparationforahousebetweentheMooseheadCarryandChesuncookbut therewasnohutnor inhabitants thereyetThepioneerthusselectsasiteforhishousewhichwillperhapsprovethegermofatownMyeyeswereallthewhileonthetreesdistinguishingbetweentheblackandwhite spruce and the fir You paddle along in a narrow canal through anendless forest and thevision I have inmyminds eye still is of the smalldarkandsharptopsof tall firandsprucetreesandpagoda-likearbor-vitaeligscrowdedtogetheroneachsidewithvarioushardwoodsintermixedSomeofthe arbor-vitaeligs were at least sixty feet high The hard woods occasionallyoccurring exclusivelywere lesswild tomy eye I fancied them ornamentalgrounds with farmhouses in the rear The canoe and yellow birch beechmaple and elm are Saxon and Norman but the spruce and fir and pinesgenerally are Indian The soft engravingswhich adorn the annuals give noideaofastreaminsuchawildernessasthisTheroughsketchesinJacksonsReportsontheGeologyofMaineanswermuchbetterAtoneplacewesawasmallgroveofslendersaplingwhitepinestheonlycollectionofpinesthatIsaw on this voyage Here and there however was a full-grown tall andslender but defective onewhat lumbermen call a konchus treewhich theyascertainwiththeiraxesorbytheknotsIdidnotlearnwhetherthiswordwasIndianorEnglishItremindedmeoftheGreekκόγχηaconchorshellandIamusedmyselfwith fancying that itmightsignify thedeadsoundwhich thetreesyieldwhenstruckAlltherestofthepineshadbeendrivenoffHowfarmengoforthematerialoftheirhousesTheinhabitantsofthemostcivilizedcitiesinallagessendintofarprimitiveforestsbeyondtheboundsoftheircivilizationwherethemooseandbearandsavagedwellfortheirpineboardsforordinaryuseAndontheotherhandthesavagesoonreceivesfrom

citiesironarrow-pointshatchetsandgunstopointhissavagenesswithThe solidandwell-defined fir-tops like sharpand regular spearheadsblackagainst the sky gave a peculiar dark and sombre look to the forest Thespruce-tops have a similar butmore ragged outline their shafts alsomerelyfeatheredbelowThefirsweresomewhatoftenerregularanddensepyramidsI was struck by this universal spiring upward of the forest evergreens Thetendencyis toslenderspiringtopswhiletheyarenarrowerbelowNotonlythe spruce and fir but even the arbor-vitaelig and white pine unlike the softspreading second-growth of which I saw none all spire upwards lifting adensespearheadofconestothelightandairatanyratewhiletheirbranchesstraggleafterastheymayasIndianslifttheballovertheheadsofthecrowdin their desperate game In this they resemble grasses as also palmssomewhatThehemlockiscommonlyatent-likepyramidfromthegroundtoitssummitAfter passing through some long rips and by a large islandwe reached aninterestingpartoftherivercalledthePineStreamDeadwateraboutsixmilesbelow Ragmuff where the river expanded to thirty rods in width and hadmany islands in it with elms and canoe-birches now yellowing along theshoreandwegotourfirstsightofKtaadnHereabouttwooclockweturnedupasmallbranchthreeorfourrodswidewhichcomes inon the right from the south calledPineStream to look formoose signsWe had gone but a few rods beforewe saw very recent signsalongthewatersedge themudliftedupby their feetbeingquitefreshandJoedeclaredthattheyhadgonealongtherebutashorttimebeforeWesoonreachedasmallmeadowontheeastsideatanangleinthestreamwhichwasfor themostpartdenselycoveredwithaldersAswewereadvancingalongthe edge of this rathermore quietly than usual perhaps on account of thefreshnessofthesignsmdashthedesignbeingtocampupthisstreamifitpromisedwellmdashIheardaslightcracklingoftwigsdeepinthealdersandturnedJoesattention to itwhereuponhebegan topush the canoeback rapidly andwehad receded thus half a dozen rods when we suddenly spied two moosestanding just on the edge of the open part of the meadow which we hadpassednotmorethansixorsevenrodsdistantlookingroundthealdersatusTheymademethinkofgreatfrightenedrabbitswiththeirlongearsandhalf-inquisitive half-frightened looks the true denizens of the forest (I saw atonce) fillingavacuumwhichnow first Idiscoveredhadnotbeen filled formemdashmoose-menwood-eaters theword is said tomeanmdashclad in a sort ofVermontgrayorhomespunOurNimrodowingtotheretrogrademovementwasnowthefarthestfromthegamebutbeingwarnedofitsneighborhoodhehastilystoodupandwhileweduckedfiredoverourheadsonebarrelattheforemostwhichalonehesawthoughhedidnotknowwhatkindofcreatureit

waswhereuponthisonedashedacrossthemeadowandupahighbankonthenortheastsorapidlyastoleavebutanindistinctimpressionofitsoutlinesonmymindAt thesame instant theotherayoungonebutas tallasahorseleaped out into the stream in full sight and there stood cowering for amomentorratheritsdisproportionatelownessbehindgaveitthatappearanceandutteringtwoorthreetrumpetingsqueaksIhaveanindistinctrecollectionofseeingtheoldonepauseaninstantonthetopofthebankinthewoodslooktowarditsshiveringyoungandthendashawayagainThesecondbarrelwasleveledat thecalfandwhenweexpected tosee itdrop in thewaterafteralittlehesitationittoogotoutofthewateranddashedupthehillthoughinasomewhatdifferentdirectionAllthiswastheworkofafewsecondsandourhunterhavingneverseenamoosebeforedidnotknowbut theyweredeerfor they stoodpartly in thewaternorwhetherhehad firedat the sameonetwiceornotFromthestyleinwhichtheywentoffandthefactthathewasnotusedtostandingupandfiringfromacanoeIjudgedthatweshouldnotseeanythingmoreofthemTheIndiansaidthattheywereacowandhercalfmdasha yearling or perhaps two years old for they accompany their dams solongbutformypartIhadnotnoticedmuchdifferenceintheirsizeItwasbuttwoorthreerodsacrossthemeadowtothefootofthebankwhichlikealltheworldthereaboutswasdenselywoodedbutIwassurprisedtonoticethatassoonas themoosehadpassedbehindtheveilof thewoods therewasnosoundof footsteps tobeheard from the soft dampmosswhich carpets thatforest and long beforewe landed perfect silence reigned Joe said If youwoundemmoosemesuregetemWealllandedatonceMycompanionreloadedtheIndianfastenedhisbirchthrewoffhishatadjustedhiswaistbandseized thehatchetandsetoutHetoldmeafterwardcasuallythatbeforewelandedhehadseenadropofbloodonthebankwhenitwastwoor threerodsoffHeproceededrapidlyupthebank and through thewoodswith a peculiar elastic noiseless and stealthytreadlookingtorightandleftonthegroundandsteppinginthefainttracksof thewoundedmoosenowand thenpointing insilence toasingledropofblood on the handsome shining leaves of the Clintonia borealis which onevery side covered thegroundor toadry fern stem freshlybroken all thewhile chewing some leaf or else the spruce gum I followed watching hismotionsmorethanthetrailofthemooseAfterfollowingthetrailaboutfortyrodsinaprettydirectcoursesteppingoverfallentreesandwindingbetweenstanding ones he at length lost it for there weremany other moose-tracksthereandreturningoncemoretothelastblood-staintraceditalittlewayandlostitagainandtoosoonIthoughtforagoodhuntergaveitupentirelyHetraced a few steps also the tracks of the calf but seeing no blood soonrelinquishedthesearchIobservedwhilehewastrackingthemooseacertainreticenceormoderation

in him He did not communicate several observations of interest which hemade as a whitemanwould have done though theymay have leaked outafterwardAtanothertimewhenweheardaslightcracklingoftwigsandhelanded to reconnoitrehe stepped lightlyandgracefully stealing through thebusheswiththeleastpossiblenoiseinawayinwhichnowhitemandoesmdashasitwerefindingaplaceforhisfooteachtimeAbout half an hour after seeing themoosewe pursued our voyage upPineStreamandsooncomingtoapartwhichwasveryshoalandalsorapidwetookoutthebaggageandproceededtocarryitroundwhileJoegotupwiththecanoealoneWewerejustcompletingourportageandIwasabsorbedintheplantsadmiringtheleavesoftheAstermacrophyllustenincheswideandpluckingtheseedsofthegreatround-leavedorchiswhenJoeexclaimedfromthe stream that he had killed amoose He had found the cowmoose lyingdeadbutquitewarminthemiddleofthestreamwhichwassoshallowthatitrestedonthebottomwithhardlyathirdofitsbodyabovewaterItwasaboutan hour after itwas shot and itwas swollenwithwater It had run about ahundredrodsandsoughtthestreamagaincuttingoffaslightbendNodoubtabetterhunterwouldhavetrackedittothisspotatonceIwassurprisedatitsgreat size horse-like but Joe said it was not a large cow moose Mycompanion went in search of the calf again I took hold of the ears of themoosewhileJoepushedhiscanoedown-streamtowardafavorableshoreandsowemadeoutthoughwithsomedifficultyitslongnosefrequentlystickinginthebottomtodragitintostillshallowerwaterItwasabrownish-blackorperhaps a dark iron-gray on the back and sides but lighter beneath and infront I took the cord which served for the canoes painter and with Joesassistance measured it carefully the greatest distances first making a knoteachtimeThepainterbeingwantedIreducedthesemeasuresthatnightwithequal care to lengths and fractions of my umbrella beginning with thesmallestmeasuresanduntyingtheknotsasIproceededandwhenwearrivedatChesuncookthenextdayfindingatwo-footrulethereIreducedthelasttofeet and inches andmoreover Imademyself a two-foot ruleof a thin andnarrowstripofblackashwhichwouldfoldupconvenientlytosixinchesAllthispains I tookbecause Ididnotwish tobeobliged tosaymerely that themoose was very large Of the various dimensions which I obtained I willmention only two The distance from the tips of the hoofs of the fore feetstretchedouttothetopofthebackbetweentheshoulderswassevenfeetandfive inches Icanhardlybelievemyownmeasure for this isabout two feetgreater than the height of a tall horse (Indeed I am now satisfied that thismeasurementwasincorrectbuttheothermeasuresgivenhereIcanwarranttobe correct having proved them in amore recent visit to thosewoods) Theextreme lengthwas eight feet and two inchesAnother cowmoosewhich Ihavesincemeasuredinthosewoodswithatapewasjustsixfeetfromthetip

ofthehooftotheshouldersandeightfeetlongasshelayWhenafterwardIaskedanIndianatthecarryhowmuchtallerthemalewasheansweredEighteeninchesandmademeobservetheheightofacross-stakeoverthefiremorethanfourfeetfromthegroundtogivemesomeideaofthedepthofhischestAnotherIndianatOldtowntoldmethattheywereninefeethightothetopofthebackandthatonewhichhetriedweighedeighthundredpoundsThelengthofthespinalprojectionsbetweentheshouldersisverygreatAwhitehunterwhowas thebestauthorityamonghunters that Icould have told me that the male was not eighteen inches taller than thefemaleyetheagreedthathewassometimesninefeethighto the topof thebackandweighedathousandpoundsOnlythemalehashornsandtheyrisetwo feet or more above the shouldersmdashspreading three or four andsometimes six feetmdashwhichwouldmake him in all sometimes eleven feethighAccordingtothiscalculationthemooseisastallthoughitmaynotbeas large as thegreat Irish elkMegacerosHibernicus of a formerperiod ofwhichMantellsaysthatitveryfarexceededinmagnitudeanylivingspeciesthe skeletonbeing upwardof ten feethigh from theground to thehighestpoint of the antlers Joe said that though themoose shed thewhole hornannuallyeachnewhornhasanadditionalprongbutIhavenoticedthattheysometimeshavemoreprongsononesidethanontheotherIwasstruckwiththedelicacyandtendernessofthehoofswhichdivideveryfarupandtheonehalfcouldbepressedverymuchbehind theother thusprobablymaking theanimalsurer-footedontheunevengroundandslipperymoss-coveredlogsoftheprimitive forestTheywereveryunlike the stiff andbattered feetofourhorsesandoxenThebarehornypartoftheforefootwasjustsixincheslongandthetwoportionscouldbeseparatedfourinchesattheextremitiesThe moose is singularly grotesque and awkward to look atWhy should itstandsohighattheshouldersWhyhavesolongaheadWhyhavenotailtospeakofforinmyexaminationIoverlookeditentirelyNaturalistssayit isaninchandahalflongItremindedmeatonceofthecamelopardhighbeforeand lowbehindmdashandnowonder for like it it is fitted tobrowseon treesThe upper lip projected two inches beyond the lower for this purpose ThiswasthekindofmanthatwasathomethereforasnearasIcanlearnthathasnever been the residence but rather the hunting-ground of the Indian ThemoosewillperhapsonedaybecomeextinctbuthownaturallythenwhenitexistsonlyasafossilrelicandunseenasthatmaythepoetorsculptorinventafabulousanimalwithsimilarbranchingandleafyhornsmdashasortoffucusorlicheninbonemdashtobetheinhabitantofsuchaforestasthisHerejustattheheadofthemurmuringrapidsJoenowproceededtoskinthemoosewithapocket-knifewhileIlookedonandatragicalbusinessitwasmdashto see that still warm and palpitating body pierced with a knife to see the

warm milk stream from the rent udder and the ghastly naked red carcassappearing fromwithin its seemly robewhichwasmade tohide itTheballhadpassed through the shoulder-bladediagonallyand lodgedunder the skinon the opposite side andwas partially flattenedMy companion keeps it toshowtohisgrandchildrenHehastheshanksofanothermoosewhichhehassince shot skinnedand stuffed ready tobemade intobootsbyputting in athickleathersoleJoesaidifamoosestoodfrontingyouyoumustnotfirebutadvancetowardhimforhewillturnslowlyandgiveyouafairshotInthebedofthisnarrowwildandrockystreambetweentwoloftywallsofspruceandfirsamerecleftintheforestwhichthestreamhadmadethisworkwentonAtlengthJoehadstrippedoffthehideanddraggedittrailingtotheshoredeclaringthatitweighedahundredpoundsthoughprobablyfiftywouldhavebeennearerthetruthHecutoffalargemassofthemeattocarryalongandanothertogetherwiththetongueandnoseheputwiththehideontheshoretoliethereallnightortillwereturnedIwassurprisedthathethoughtofleavingthismeatthusexposedbythesideofthecarcassasthesimplestcoursenotfearing that any creaturewould touch it but nothing didThis could hardlyhave happened on the bank of one of our rivers in the eastern part ofMassachusettsbutIsuspectthatfewersmallwildanimalsareprowlingtherethanwithusTwicehoweverinthisexcursionIhadaglimpseofaspeciesoflargemouseThis streamwassowithdrawnand themoose-trackswereso fresh thatmycompanionsstillbentonhuntingconcludedtogofartherupitandcampandthenhuntupordownatnightHalfamileabovethisataplacewhereIsawtheAsterpuniceusandthebeakedhazelaswepaddledalongJoehearingaslightrustlingamidthealdersandseeingsomethingblackabouttworodsoffjumped up andwhispered Bear but before the hunter had discharged hispiece he corrected himself to BeavermdashHedgehog The bullet killed alarge hedgehog more than two feet and eight inches long The quills wererayedoutandflattenedonthehinderpartofitsbackevenasifithadlainonthat part but were erect and long between this and the tail Their pointscloselyexaminedwereseen tobefinelybeardedorbarbedandshapedlikeanawlthatisalittleconcavetogivethebarbseffectAfteraboutamileofstill water we prepared our camp on the right side just at the foot of aconsiderablefallLittlechoppingwasdonethatnightforfearofscaringthemooseWehadmoosemeat fried for supper It tasted like tenderbeefwithperhapsmoreflavormdashsometimeslikevealAfter supper the moon having risen we proceeded to hunt a mile up thisstreamfirstcarryingaboutthefallsWemadeapicturesquesightwendingsinglefilealongtheshoreclimbingoverrocksandlogsJoewhobroughtupthereartwirlinghiscanoeinhishandsasifitwereafeatherinplaceswhereitwas difficult to get alongwithout a burdenWe launched the canoe again

fromtheledgeoverwhichthestreamfellbutafterhalfamileofstillwatersuitable forhunting itbecamerapidagainandwewerecompelled tomakeourwayalong the shorewhile Joeendeavored togetup in thebirchalonethoughitwasstillverydifficultforhimtopickhiswayamidtherocksinthenightWeon theshorefound theworstofwalkingaperfectchaosof fallenand drifted trees and of bushes projecting far over thewater and now andthen wemade our way across the mouth of a small tributary on a kind ofnetworkof aldersSowewent tumblingon in thedark beingon the shadysideeffectuallyscaringallthemooseandbearsthatmightbethereaboutsAtlengthwe came to a standstill and Joewent forward to reconnoitre but hereportedthat itwasstillacontinuousrapidasfarashewentorhalfamilewithnoprospectofimprovementasifitwerecomingdownfromamountainSoweturnedabouthuntingbacktothecampthroughthestillwaterItwasasplendid moonlight night and I getting sleepy as it grew latemdashfor I hadnothing to domdashfound it difficult to realize where I was This stream wasmuchmore unfrequented than themain one lumbering operations being nolongercarriedonin thisquarter Itwasonly threeorfourrodswidebut thefirsandsprucethroughwhichittrickledseemedyettallerbycontrastBeinginthisdreamystatewhichthemoonlightenhancedIdidnotclearlydiscernthe shore but seemedmost of the time to be floating through ornamentalgroundsmdashforIassociatedthefir-topswithsuchscenesmdashveryhighupsomeBroadway and beneath or between their tops I thought I saw an endlesssuccession of porticoes and columns cornices and faccedilades verandas andchurches I did notmerely fancy this but inmy drowsy state suchwas theillusion I fairly lost myself in sleep several times still dreaming of thatarchitectureandthenobilitythatdweltbehindandmightissuefromitbutallatonceIwouldbearousedandbroughtbacktoasenseofmyactualpositionby the sound of Joes birch horn in themidst of all this silence calling themooseughughoo-oo-oo-oo-oo-oo and Iprepared tohear a furiousmoosecomerushingandcrashingthroughtheforestandseehimburstoutontothelittlestripofmeadowbyoursideButonmoreaccountsthanoneIhadhadenoughofmoose-huntingIhadnotcometothewoodsforthispurposenorhadIforeseenit thoughIhadbeenwillingtolearnhowtheIndianmanœuvredbutonemoosekilledwasasgoodif not as bad as a dozen The afternoons tragedy andmy share in it as itaffected the innocence destroyed the pleasure ofmy adventure It is true IcameasnearasispossibletocometobeingahunterandmissitmyselfandasitisIthinkthatIcouldspendayearinthewoodsfishingandhuntingjustenoughtosustainmyselfwithsatisfactionThiswouldbenexttolivinglikeaphilosopheronthefruitsoftheearthwhichyouhadraisedwhichalsoattractsmeButthishuntingofthemoosemerelyforthesatisfactionofkillinghimmdashnotevenforthesakeofhishidemdashwithoutmakinganyextraordinaryexertion

or running any risk yourself is too much like going out by night to somewood-sidepastureandshootingyourneighborshorsesTheseareGodsownhorsespoor timidcreatures thatwill runfastenoughassoonas theysmellyouthoughtheyareninefeethighJoetoldusofsomehunterswhoayearortwo before had shot down several oxen by night somewhere in theMainewoodsmistakingthemformooseAndsomightanyofthehuntersandwhatisthedifferenceinthesportbutthenameIntheformercasehavingkilledoneofGodsandyourownoxenyoustripoff itshidemdashbecause that is thecommon trophy and moreover you have heard that it may be sold formoccasinsmdashcutasteakfromitshaunchesandleavethehugecarcasstosmelltoheavenforyouItisnobetteratleastthantoassistataslaughter-houseThis afternoons experience suggested to me how base or coarse are themotiveswhich commonly carrymen into thewilderness The explorers andlumberersgenerallyareallhirelingspaidsomuchadayfortheirlaborandassuch they have no more love for wild nature than wood-sawyers have forforests Other whitemen and Indians who come here are for themost parthunters whose object is to slay as manymoose and other wild animals aspossibleButpraycouldnotonespendsomeweeksoryearsinthesolitudeofthis vast wilderness with other employments than thesemdashemploymentsperfectlysweetandinnocentandennoblingForonethatcomeswithapencilto sketch or sing a thousand comewith an axe or rifleWhat a coarse andimperfectuseIndiansandhuntersmakeofnatureNowonderthattheirraceisso soonexterminated I alreadyand forweeksafterward feltmynature thecoarser for thispartofmywoodlandexperienceandwas reminded thatourlifeshouldbelivedastenderlyanddaintilyasonewouldpluckaflowerWiththesethoughtswhenwereachedourcamping-groundIdecidedtoleavemycompanionstocontinuemoose-huntingdownthestreamwhileIpreparedthecampthoughtheyrequestedmenottochopmuchnormakealargefireforfearIshouldscaretheirgameInthemidstofthedampfirwoodhighonthemossybankaboutnineoclockofthisbrightmoonlightnightIkindledafirewhen theyweregone and sittingon the fir twigswithin soundof thefallsexaminedbyitslightthebotanicalspecimenswhichIhadcollectedthatafternoon and wrote down some of the reflections which I have hereexpanded or I walked along the shore and gazed up the streamwhere thewholespaceabovethefallswasfilledwithmellowlightAsIsatbeforethefireonmyfir-twigseatwithoutwallsaboveoraroundmeIrememberedhowfar on every hand that wilderness stretched before you came to cleared orcultivatedfieldsandwonderedifanybearormoosewaswatchingthelightofmyfire forNature lookedsternlyuponmeonaccountof themurderof themooseStrange that so few ever come to thewoods to see how the pine lives and

grows and spires lifting its evergreen arms to the lightmdashto see its perfectsuccessbutmostarecontenttobeholditintheshapeofmanybroadboardsbrought tomarket and deem that its true success But the pine is nomorelumberthanmanisandtobemadeintoboardsandhousesisnomoreitstrueandhighestusethanthetruestuseofamanistobecutdownandmadeintomanureThereisahigherlawaffectingourrelationtopinesaswellastomenApinecutdownadeadpineisnomoreapinethanadeadhumancarcassisamanCanhewhohasdiscoveredonlysomeof thevaluesofwhaleboneandwhaleoilbesaid tohavediscovered the trueuseof thewhaleCanhewhoslaystheelephantforhisivorybesaidtohaveseentheelephantThesearepettyandaccidentalusesjustasifastrongerraceweretokillusinordertomakebuttonsandflageoletsofourbonesforeverythingmayservealoweraswellasahigheruseEverycreatureisbetteralivethandeadmenandmooseand pine trees and hewhounderstands it arightwill rather preserve its lifethandestroyitIs it the lumberman then who is the friend and lover of the pine standsnearesttoitandunderstandsitsnaturebestIsitthetannerwhohasbarkeditorhewhohasboxeditforturpentinewhomposteritywillfabletohavebeenchangedintoapineatlastNonoitisthepoetheitiswhomakesthetruestuseofthepinewhodoesnotfondleitwithanaxenortickleitwithasawnorstrokeitwithaplanewhoknowswhetheritsheartisfalsewithoutcuttingintoitwhohasnotbought thestumpageof the townshiponwhich itstandsAllthepines shudder andheavea sighwhen thatman stepson the forest floorNoitisthepoetwholovesthemashisownshadowintheairandletsthemstand I have been into the lumber-yard and the carpenters shop and thetannery and the lampblack factory and the turpentine clearing butwhen atlengthIsawthetopsofthepineswavingandreflectingthelightatadistancehigh over all the rest of the forest I realized that the former were not thehighestuseofthepineItisnottheirbonesorhideortallowthatIlovemostIt is the living spirit of the tree not its spirit of turpentine with which IsympathizeandwhichhealsmycutsItisasimmortalasIamandperchancewillgotoashighaheaventheretotowerabovemestillErelongthehuntersreturnednothavingseenamoosebutinconsequenceofmysuggestionsbringingaquarterofthedeadonewhichwithourselvesmadequitealoadforthecanoeAfterbreakfastingonmoosemeatwereturneddownPineStreamonourwaytoChesuncookLakewhichwasaboutfivemilesdistantWecouldseetheredcarcassof themoose lying inPineStreamwhennearlyhalf amileoff Justbelowthemouthofthisstreamwerethemostconsiderablerapidsbetweenthetwo lakes called Pine Stream Falls where were large flat rocks washedsmooth and at this time you could easilywade across above them Joe ran

down alone while we walked over the portage my companion collectingsprucegumforhisfriendsathomeandIlookingforflowersNearthelakewhich we were approaching with as much expectation as if it had been auniversitymdashfor it is not often that the stream of our life opens into suchexpansionsmdashwereislandsandalowandmeadowyshorewithscatteredtreesbircheswhiteandyellowslantedover thewaterandmaplesmdashmanyof thewhitebircheskilledapparentlybyinundationsTherewasconsiderablenativegrassandevenafewcattlemdashwhosemovementsweheardthoughwedidnotseethemmistakingthematfirstformoosemdashwerepasturedthereOnenteringthelakewherethestreamrunssoutheasterlyandforsometimebeforewehadaviewof themountains aboutKtaadn (Katahdinauquohonesays theyarecalled) likea clusterofblue fungiof rankgrowth apparentlytwenty-five or thirty miles distant in a southeast direction their summitsconcealedbyclouds Joecalled someof them theSowadnehunkMountainsThis is the name of a stream there which another Indian told us meantrunning betweenmountains Though some lower summits were afterwarduncoveredwe got nomore complete viewofKtaadnwhilewewere in thewoodsTheclearingtowhichwewereboundwasontherightofthemouthoftheriverandwasreachedbygoingrounda lowpointwhere thewaterwasshallow to a great distance from the shore Chesuncook Lake extendsnorthwest and southeast and is called eighteen miles long and three widewithoutan islandWehadentered thenorthwestcornerof itandwhennearthe shore could see only partway down it The principalmountains visiblefromthelandherewerethosealreadymentionedbetweensoutheastandeastandafewsummitsalittlewestofnorthbutgenerallythenorthandnorthwesthorizonabouttheStJohnandtheBritishboundarywascomparativelylevelAnsellSmithstheoldestandprincipalclearingaboutthislakeappearedtobequiteaharborforbatteauxandcanoessevenoreightoftheformerwerelyingaboutandtherewasasmallscowforhayandacapstanonaplatformnowhighanddryreadytobefloatedandanchoredtotowraftswithItwasaveryprimitivekindofharborwhereboatsweredrawnupamidthestumpsmdashsuchaonemethoughtastheArgomighthavebeenlaunchedinTherewerefiveotherhutswithsmallclearingsontheoppositesideofthelakeallatthisendandvisiblefromthispointOneoftheSmithstoldmethatitwassofarclearedthat they came here to live and built the present house four years beforethoughthefamilyhadbeenherebutafewmonthsIwasinterestedtoseehowapioneerlivedonthissideofthecountryHislifeisinsomerespectsmoreadventurousthanthatofhisbrotherintheWestforhe contends with winter as well as the wilderness and there is a greaterintervalof timeat leastbetweenhimand the armywhich is to followHereimmigrationisatidewhichmayebbwhenithassweptawaythepinesthereit

is not a tide but an inundation and roads and other improvements comesteadilyrushingafterAsweapproachedtheloghouseadozenrodsfromthelakeandconsiderablyelevated above it the projecting ends of the logs lapping over each otherirregularlyseveralfeetatthecornersgaveitaveryrichandpicturesquelookfarremovedfromthemeannessofweather-boardsItwasaveryspaciouslowbuildingabouteightyfeetlongwithmanylargeapartmentsThewallswerewellclayedbetweenthelogswhichwerelargeandroundexceptontheupperand under sides and as visible inside as out successive bulging cheeksgradually lessening upwards and tuned to each other with the axe likePandeanpipesProbablythemusicalforestgodshadnotyetcastthemasidethey never do till they are split or the bark is gone It was a style ofarchitecturenotdescribedbyVitruviusIsuspectthoughpossiblyhintedatinthebiographyofOrpheusnoneofyourfrilledorflutedcolumnswhichhavecutsuchafalseswellandsupportnothingbutagableendandtheirbuilderspretensionsmdashthat iswith themultitude andas for ornamentationoneofthosewordswith a dead tailwhich architects very properly use to describetheirflourishestherewerethelichensandmossesandfringesofbarkwhichnobody troubledhimselfaboutWecertainly leave thehandsomestpaintandclapboards behind in the woods when we strip off the bark and poisonourselveswithwhite-leadinthetownsWegetbuthalfthespoilsoftheforestFor beauty give me trees with the fur on This house was designed andconstructed with the freedom of stroke of a foresters axe without othercompass and square thanNature usesWherever the logswere cut off by awindowordoorthatiswerenotkeptinplacebyalternateoverlappingtheywereheldoneuponanotherbyverylargepinsdrivenindiagonallyoneachsidewherebranchesmighthavebeenandthencutoffsocloseupanddownasnottoprojectbeyondthebulgeofthelogasifthelogsclaspedeachotherintheirarmsTheselogswerepostsstudsboardsclapboardslathsplasterandnailsallinoneWherethecitizenusesameresliverorboardthepioneerusesthewholetrunkofatreeThehousehadlargestonechimneysandwasroofedwithspruce-barkThewindowswereimportedallbutthecasingsOneendwasaregularloggerscampfortheboarderswiththeusualfirfloorandlogbenchesThusthishousewasbutaslightdeparturefromthehollowtreewhichthebearstillinhabitsmdashbeingahollowmadewithtreespiledupwithacoatingofbarklikeitsoriginalThe cellarwas a separate building like an ice-house and it answered for arefrigerator at this seasonourmoosemeatbeingkept there Itwasapotatohole with a permanent roof Each structure and institution here was soprimitive that you could at once refer it to its source but our buildingscommonly suggest neither their origin nor their purposeTherewas a largeandwhatfarmerswouldcallhandsomebarnpartofwhoseboardshadbeen

sawedby awhip-saw and the saw-pitwith its great pile of dust remainedbeforethehouseThelongsplitshinglesonaportionofthebarnwerelaidafoottotheweathersuggestingwhatkindofweathertheyhavethereGrantsbarn at Caribou Lake was said to be still larger the biggest ox-nest in thewoodsfiftyfeetbyahundredThinkofamonsterbarninthatprimitiveforestliftingitsgraybackabovethetree-topsManmakesverymuchsuchanestforhisdomesticanimalsofwitheredgrassandfodderasthesquirrelsandmanyotherwildcreaturesdoforthemselvesTherewasalsoablacksmiths shopwhereplainlyagooddealofworkwasdoneTheoxenandhorsesusedinlumberingoperationswereshodandalltheiron-workofsledsetcwasrepairedormadehereIsawthemloadabatteauattheMooseheadCarrythenextTuesdaywithaboutthirteenhundredweightof bar iron for this shop This remindedme howprimitive and honorable atradewasVulcansIdonothearthattherewasanycarpenterortailoramongthegodsThesmithseemstohaveprecededtheseandeveryothermechanicatChesuncook as well as on Olympus and his family is the most widelydispersedwhetherhebechristenedJohnorAnsellSmith owned twomiles down the lake by half amile inwidthTherewereaboutonehundredacresclearedhereHecutseventytonsofEnglishhaythisyearon thisgroundand twentymoreonanotherclearingandheuses itallhimselfinlumberingoperationsThebarnwascrowdedwithpressedhayandamachinetopressitTherewasalargegardenfullofrootsmdashturnipsbeetscarrotspotatoesetcallofgreatsizeTheysaidthattheywereworthasmuchhereasinNewYorkIsuggestedsomecurrantsforsauceespeciallyastheyhadnoappletreessetoutandshowedhoweasilytheycouldbeobtainedThere was the usual long-handled axe of the primitive woods by the doorthreeandahalffeetlongmdashformynewblack-ashrulewasinconstantusemdashandalargeshaggydogwhosenosereportsaidwasfullofporcupinequillsI can testify that he looked very sober This is the usual fortune of pioneerdogsfortheyhavetofacethebruntofthebattlefortheirraceandactthepartofArnoldWinkelriedwithoutintendingitIfheshouldinviteoneofhistownfriendsupthiswaysuggestingmoosemeatandunlimitedfreedomthelattermight pertinently inquire What is that sticking in your nose When agenerationortwohaveusedupalltheenemiesdartstheirsuccessorsleadacomparativelyeasylifeWeowetoourfathersanalogousblessingsManyoldpeople receive pensions for no other reason it seems to me but as acompensationforhavinglivedalongtimeagoNodoubtourtowndogsstilltalkinasnufflingwayaboutthedaysthattrieddogsnosesHowtheygotacat up there I donotknow for they are as shy asmyaunt about entering acanoeIwonderedthatshedidnotrunupatreeonthewaybutperhapsshewasbewilderedbytheverycrowdofopportunities

TwentyorthirtylumberersYankeeandCanadianwerecomingandgoingmdashAleckamongtherestmdashandfromtimetotimeanIndiantouchedhereInthewinter there are sometimes a hundred men lodged here at once The mostinterestingpieceofnewsthatcirculatedamongthemappearedtobethatfourhorsesbelongingtoSmithworthsevenhundreddollarshadpassedbyfartherintothewoodsaweekbeforeThewhite pine treewas at the bottomor farther end of all this It is awaragainstthepinestheonlyrealAroostookorPenobscotwarIhavenodoubtthattheylivedprettymuchthesamesortoflifeintheHomericageformenhavealwaysthoughtmoreofeatingthanoffightingthenasnowtheirmindsranchieflyonthehotbreadandsweetcakesandthefurandlumbertradeisanoldstorytoAsiaandEuropeIdoubtifmenevermadeatradeofheroismIn the days ofAchilles even they delighted in big barns and perchance inpressedhayandhewhopossessedthemostvaluableteamwasthebestfellowWehaddesignedtogoonateveninguptheCaucomgomocwhosemouthwasamileor twodistant to the lakeof thesamenameabout tenmilesoffbutsome Indians of Joes acquaintance who were making canoes on theCaucomgomoccameoverfromthatsideandgavesopooranaccountofthemoose-hunting so many had been killed there lately that my companionsconcluded not to go there Joe spent this Sunday and the night with hisacquaintancesThelumbererstoldmethatthereweremanymoosehereaboutsbutnocaribouordeerAmanfromOldtownhadkilledtenortwelvemoosewithinayear sonear thehouse that theyheardallhisgunsHisnamemayhavebeenHerculesforaughtIknowthoughIshouldratherhaveexpectedtohear the rattling of his club but no doubt he keeps pace with theimprovementsoftheageandusesaSharpsriflenowprobablyhegetsallhisarmor made and repaired at Smiths shop One moose had been killed andanother shot at within sight of the house within two years I do not knowwhetherSmithhasyetgotapoettolookafterthecattlewhichonaccountoftheearlybreakingupoftheicearecompelledtosummerinthewoodsbutIwouldsuggestthisofficetosuchofmyacquaintancesaslovetowriteversesandgoa-gunningAfter a dinner at which apple-saucewas the greatest luxury tome but ourmoose meat was oftenest called for by the lumberers I walked across theclearingintotheforestsouthwardreturningalongtheshoreFormydessertIhelpedmyself to a large slice of theChesuncookwoods and took a heartydraughtofitswaterswithallmysensesThewoodswereasfreshandfullofvegetable life as a lichen in wet weather and contained many interestingplantsbutunlesstheyareofwhitepinetheyaretreatedwithaslittlerespecthere as amildew and in the other case they are only themore quickly cutdownTheshorewasofcoarseflatslaterocksofteninslabswiththesurf

beatingonitTherocksandbleacheddrift-logsextendingsomewayintotheshaggywoodsshowedariseandfallofsixoreightfeetcausedpartlybythedamattheoutletTheysaidthatinwinterthesnowwasthreefeetdeeponalevelhereandsometimesfourorfivemdashthattheiceonthelakewastwofeetthick clear and four feet including the snow-ice Icehad already formed invesselsWe lodgedhere thisSundaynight in a comfortablebedroomapparently thebest one and all that I noticed unusual in the nightmdashfor I still kept takingnoteslikeaspyinthecampmdashwasthecreakingofthethinsplitboardswhenanyofourneighborsstirredSuchwerethefirstrudebeginningsofatownTheyspokeofthepracticabilityof awinter road to theMooseheadCarrywhichwould not costmuch andwouldconnect themwithsteamandstagingandall thebusyworldIalmostdoubted if the lakewould be theremdashthe self-same lakemdashpreserve its formand identitywhen theshoresshouldbeclearedandsettledas if these lakesandstreamswhichexplorersreportneverawaitedtheadventofthecitizenThe sight of one of these frontier houses built of these great logs whoseinhabitants have unflinchingly maintained their ground many summers andwinters in thewilderness remindsme of famous forts like Ticonderoga orCrown Point which have sustained memorable sieges They are especiallywinter-quartersandatthisseasonthisonehadapartiallydesertedlookasifthesiegewereraisedalittlethesnowbanksbeingmeltedfrombeforeitanditsgarrisonaccordingly reduced I thinkof theirdaily foodas rationsmdashit iscalledsuppliesaBibleandagreatcoataremunitionsofwaranda singleman seen about the premises is a sentinel on duty You expect that hewillrequirethecountersignandwillperchancetakeyouforEthanAllencometodemandthesurrenderofhisfortinthenameoftheContinentalCongressItisa sortof ranger serviceArnoldsexpedition isadailyexperiencewith thesesettlersTheycanprovethattheywereoutatalmostanytimeandIthinkthatallthefirstgenerationofthemdeserveapensionmorethananythatwenttotheMexicanwarEarly the next morning we started on our return up the Penobscot mycompanionwishingtogoabouttwenty-fivemilesabovetheMooseheadCarrytoacampnear the junctionof the twoforksand lookformoose thereOurhostallowedussomethingforthequarterofthemoosewhichwehadbroughtandwhichhewasgladtogetTwoexplorersfromChamberlainLakestartedatthesametimethatwedidRedflannelshirtsshouldbeworninthewoodsifonlyforthefinecontrastwhichthiscolormakeswiththeevergreensandthewater Thus I thoughtwhen I saw the forms of the explorers in their birchpolingup the rapids before us far off against the forest It is the surveyorscoloralsomostdistinctlyseenunderallcircumstancesWestoppedtodineat

Ragmuff as beforeMy companion it was whowandered up the stream tolookformoosethistimewhileJoewenttosleeponthebanksothatwefeltsureofhimandIimprovedtheopportunitytobotanizeandbatheSoonafterstartingagainwhileJoewasgonebackinthecanoeforthefrying-panwhichhadbeenleftwepickedacoupleofquartsoftree-cranberriesforasauceIwassurprisedbyJoesaskingmehowfaritwastotheMoosehornHewasprettywellacquaintedwiththisstreambuthehadnoticedthatIwascuriousaboutdistancesandhadseveralmapsHeandIndiansgenerallywithwhomIhavetalkedarenotabletodescribedimensionsordistancesinourmeasureswithanyaccuracyHecouldtellperhapsatwhattimeweshouldarrivebutnothowfar itwasWesawafewwoodduckssheldrakesandblackducksbuttheywerenotsonumerousthereatthatseasonasonourriverathomeWescaredthesamefamilyofwoodducksbeforeusgoingandreturningWealsoheardthenoteofonefishhawksomewhatlikethatofapigeonwoodpeckerandsoonaftersawhimperchednearthetopofadeadwhitepineagainsttheisland where we had first camped while a company of peetweets weretwitteringandteeteringaboutoverthecarcassofamooseonalowsandyspitjustbeneathWedrovethefishhawkfromperchtopercheachtimeelicitingascreamorwhistleformanymilesbeforeusOurcoursebeingup-streamwewere obliged to workmuch harder than before and had frequent use for apole Sometimes all three of us paddled together standing up small andheavilyladenasthecanoewasAboutsixmilesfromMooseheadwebegantosee themountains east of the north end of the lake and at four oclockwereachedthecarryThe Indians were still encamped here There were three including the StFrancis Indianwhohadcome in thesteamerwithusOneof theotherswascalledSabattis Joe and theStFrancis Indianwereplainly clear Indian theothertwoapparentlymixedIndianandwhitebutthedifferencewasconfinedtotheirfeaturesandcomplexionforallthatIcouldseeWeherecookedthetongueofthemooseforsuppermdashhavingleftthenosewhichisesteemedthechoicest part at Chesuncook boiling it being a good deal of trouble toprepareitWealsostewedourtree-cranberries(Viburnumopulus)sweeteningthemwith sugar The lumberers sometimes cook themwithmolasses TheywereusedinArnoldsexpeditionThissaucewasverygratefultouswhohadbeenconfinedtohard-breadporkandmoosemeatandnotwithstandingtheirseeds we all three pronounced them equal to the common cranberry butperhaps some allowance is to bemade for our forest appetites Itwould beworth thewhile to cultivate themboth for beauty and for food I afterwardsawtheminagardeninBangorJoesaidthattheywerecalledebeemenarWhile we were getting supper Joe commenced curing the moose-hide onwhichIhadsatagoodpartofthevoyagehehavingalreadycutmostofthe

hairoffwithhisknifeattheCaucomgomocHesetuptwostoutforkedpolesonthebanksevenoreightfeethighandasmuchasundereastandwestandhavingcutslitseightortenincheslongandthesamedistanceapartclosetotheedgeonthesidesofthehidehethreadedpolesthroughthemandthenplacingoneofthepolesontheforkedstakestiedtheotherdowntightlyatthebottomThetwoendsalsoweretiedwithcedarbarktheirusualstringtotheuprightpolesthroughsmallholesatshortintervalsThehidethusstretchedandslantedalittletothenorthtoexposeitsfleshsidetothesunmeasuredinthe extreme eight feet long by six highWhere any flesh still adhered Joeboldly scored it with his knife to lay it open to the sun It now appearedsomewhatspottedandinjuredbytheduckshotYoumayseetheoldframesonwhichhideshavebeenstretchedatmanycamping-placesinthesewoodsForsomereasonorother thegoing to theforksof thePenobscotwasgivenupandwedecided to stopheremycompanion intending tohuntdown thestreamatnightTheIndiansinvitedustolodgewiththembutmycompanioninclinedtogotothelogcamponthecarryThiscampwascloseanddirtyandhadanillsmellandIpreferredtoaccepttheIndiansofferifwedidnotmakeacampforourselvesforthoughtheyweredirtytootheyweremoreintheopenairandweremuchmoreagreeableandevenrefinedcompanythanthelumberers Themost interesting question entertained at the lumberers campwaswhichmancouldhandleanyotheronthecarryandforthemostparttheypossessednoqualitieswhichyoucouldnotlayhandsonSowewenttotheIndianscamporwigwamItwasratherwindyandthereforeJoeconcludedtohuntaftermidnightifthewindwentdownwhichtheotherIndiansthoughtitwouldnotdobecauseitwasfromthesouthThetwomixed-bloodshoweverwentoffuptheriverformooseatdarkbeforewearrivedattheircampThisIndiancampwasaslightpatched-up affair which had stood there several weeks built shed-fashionopentothefireonthewestIfthewindchangedtheycouldturnitroundItwasformedbytwoforkedstakesandacross-barwithraftersslantedfromthisto the ground The covering was partly an old sail partly birch-bark quiteimperfectbutsecurelytiedonandcomingdowntothegroundonthesidesAlarge log was rolled up at the back side for a headboard and two or threemoose-hideswere spreadon thegroundwith thehairupVariousarticlesoftheirwardrobewere tucked around the sides and corners or under the roofTheyweresmokingmoosemeatonjustsuchacrateasisrepresentedbyWithin De Brys Collectio Peregrinationum published in 1588 and which thenativesofBrazilcalledboucan(whencebuccaneer)onwhichwerefrequentlyshownpiecesofhumanfleshdryingalongwiththerestItwaserectedinfrontof thecampover theusual large fire in the formof anoblong squareTwostoutforkedstakesfourorfivefeetapartandfivefeethighweredrivenintothegroundateachendandthentwopolestenfeetlongwerestretchedacross

overthefireandsmalleroneslaidtransverselyontheseafootapartOnthelasthunglargethinslicesofmoosemeatsmokinganddryingaspacebeingleft open over the centre of the fire Therewas thewhole heart black as athirty-twopoundball hanging at one cornerThey said that it took threeorfourdaystocurethismeatanditwouldkeepayearormoreRefusepieceslayaboutonthegroundindifferentstagesofdecayandsomepiecesalsointhefirehalfburiedandsizzlingintheashesasblackanddirtyasanoldshoeTheselastIatfirstthoughtwerethrownawaybutafterwardsfoundthattheywerebeingcookedAlsoatremendousrib-piecewasroastingbeforethefirebeing impaledonanuprightstakeforced inandoutbetween theribsTherewasamoose-hidestretchedandcuringonpoleslikeoursandquiteapileofcuredskinsclosebyTheyhadkilled twenty-twomoosewithin twomonthsbutastheycouldusebutverylittleofthemeattheyleftthecarcasesonthegroundAltogetheritwasaboutassavageasightaswaseverwitnessedandIwas carried back at once three hundred years There weremany torches ofbirch-bark shaped like straight tin horns lying ready for use on a stumpoutsideFor fear of dirtwe spread our blankets over their hides so as not to touchthemanywhereTheStFrancisIndianandJoealonewerethereatfirstandwelayonourbackstalkingwiththemtillmidnightTheywereverysociableandwhen they did not talkwith us kept up a steady chatting in their ownlanguageWe heard a small bird just after dark which Joe said sang at acertain hour in the nightmdashat ten oclock he believed We also heard thehylodesandtree-toadsandthelumbererssingingintheircampaquarterofamile off I told them that I had seen pictured in old books pieces of humanfleshdryingonthesecrateswhereupontheyrepeatedsometraditionabouttheMohawks eating human fleshwhat parts they preferred etc and also of abattlewith theMohawksnearMoosehead inwhichmanyof the latterwerekilled but I found that they knewbut little of the history of their race andcouldbeentertainedbystoriesabouttheirancestorsasreadilyasanywayAtfirstIwasnearlyroastedoutforIlayagainstonesideofthecampandfelttheheatreflectednotonlyfromthebirch-barkabovebutfromthesideandagain I remembered the sufferings of the Jesuit missionaries and whatextremes of heat and cold the Indianswere said to endure I struggled longbetweenmydesiretoremainandtalkwiththemandmyimpulsetorushoutand stretchmyself on the cool grass andwhen Iwas about to take the laststep Joehearingmymurmursor elsebeinguncomfortablehimself gotupand partially dispersed the fire I suppose that that is Indian mannersmdashtodefendyourselfWhile lying there listening to the Indians I amused myself with trying toguessattheirsubjectbytheirgesturesorsomepropernameintroducedTherecanbenomorestartlingevidenceoftheirbeingadistinctandcomparatively

aboriginal race than to hear this unaltered Indian languagewhich thewhitemancannotspeaknorunderstandWemaysuspectchangeanddeteriorationinalmost every other particular but the language which is so whollyunintelligible to us It took me by surprise though I had found so manyarrowheads and convinced me that the Indian was not the invention ofhistorians andpoets Itwas apurelywild andprimitiveAmerican sound asmuchasthebarkingofachickareeandIcouldnotunderstandasyllableofitbut Paugus had he been there would have understood it These AbenakisgossipedlaughedandjestedinthelanguageinwhichEliotsIndianBibleiswritten the languagewhichhasbeenspoken inNewEnglandwhoshall sayhow long These were the sounds that issued from the wigwams of thiscountrybeforeColumbuswasborn theyhavenot yet died away andwithremarkably few exceptions the language of their forefathers is still copiousenoughforthemIfeltthatIstoodorratherlayasneartotheprimitivemanofAmericathatnightasanyofitsdiscovererseverdidInthemidstoftheirconversationJoesuddenlyappealedtometoknowhowlongMooseheadLakewasMeanwhileaswelaythereJoewasmakingandtryinghishorntobereadyforhunting aftermidnightTheStFrancis Indian also amusedhimselfwithsoundingitorrathercallingthroughitforthesoundismadewiththevoiceandnotbyblowingthroughthehornThelatterappearedtobeaspeculatorinmoose-hidesHeboughtmycompanionsfortwodollarsandaquartergreenJoe said that it was worth two and a half at Oldtown Its chief use is formoccasinsOneortwooftheseIndiansworethemIwastoldthatbyarecentlawofMaine foreigners are not allowed to killmoose there at any seasonwhiteAmericanscankill themonlyataparticularseasonbuttheIndiansofMaineatallseasonsTheStFrancisIndianaccordinglyaskedmycompanionforawighigginorbilltoshowsincehewasaforeignerHelivednearSorelIfoundthathecouldwritehisnameverywellTahmuntSwasenOneEllisanoldwhitemanofGuilfordatownthroughwhichwepassednotfarfromthesouthendofMooseheadwasthemostcelebratedmoose-hunterofthosepartsIndiansandwhitesspokewithequal respectofhimTahmuntsaid that thereweremoremooseherethanintheAdirondackcountryinNewYorkwherehehadhunted that threeyearsbefore therewereagreatmanyaboutandtherewereagreatmanynowinthewoodsbuttheydidnotcomeouttothewaterItwas of no use to hunt them atmidnightmdashtheywould not come out then Iasked Sabattis after he came home if the moose never attacked him HeansweredthatyoumustnotfiremanytimessoastomadhimIfireonceandhithimintherightplaceandinthemorningIfindhimHewontgofarButifyoukeepfiringyoumadhimIfiredoncefivebulletseveryonethroughtheheartandhedidnotmindematallitonlymadehimmoremadIaskedhimiftheydidnothuntthemwithdogsHesaidthattheydidsoinwinterbut

never in the summer for then it was of no use they would run right offstraightandswiftlyahundredmilesAnotherIndiansaidthatthemooseoncescaredwouldrunalldayAdogwillhangtotheirlipsandbecarriedalongtillheisswungagainstatreeanddropsoffTheycannotrunonaglazethoughtheycanruninsnowfourfeetdeepbut the caribou can run on ice They commonly find two or three moosetogetherTheycoverthemselveswithwaterallbuttheirnosestoescapefliesHehadthehornsofwhathecalledtheblackmoosethatgoesinlowlandsThesespreadthreeorfourfeetTheredmoosewasanotherkindrunningon mountains and had horns which spread six feet Such were hisdistinctionsBothcanmovetheirhornsThebroadflatbladesarecoveredwithhairandaresosoftwhentheanimalisalivethatyoucanrunaknifethroughthemTheyregarditasagoodorbadsignifthehornsturnthiswayorthatHiscaribouhornshadbeengnawedbymice inhiswigwambuthe thoughtthatthehornsneitherofthemoosenorofthecaribouwereevergnawedwhilethe creaturewas alive as somehave assertedAn Indianwhom Imet afterthisatOldtownwhohadcarriedaboutabearandotheranimalsofMainetoexhibittoldmethatthirtyyearsagotherewerenotsomanymooseinMaineasnow also that themoosewerevery easily tamed andwould comebackwhen once fed and so would deer but not caribou The Indians of thisneighborhood are about as familiar with the moose as we are with the oxhaving associatedwith them for somany generations Father Rasles in hisDictionary of the Abenaki Language gives not only a word for the malemoose(aianbeacute)andanotherforthefemale(hegraverar)butforthebonewhichisinthemiddleoftheheartofthemoose()andforhislefthindlegTherewerenoneofthesmalldeeruptheretheyaremorecommonaboutthesettlements One ran into the city of Bangor two years before and jumpedthrough a window of costly plate glass and then into a mirror where itthought it recognizedoneof itskindandoutagainandsoon leapingovertheheadsofthecrowduntilitwascapturedThistheinhabitantsspeakofasthedeerthatwenta-shoppingThelast-mentionedIndianspokeofthelunxusorIndiandevil(whichItaketobethecougarandnottheGuloluscus)astheonlyanimalinMainewhichmanneedfearitwouldfollowamananddidnotmind a fire He also said that beavers were getting to be pretty numerousagain where wewent but their skins brought so little now that it was notprofitabletohuntthemIhadputtheearsofourmoosewhichweretenincheslongtodryalongwiththemoosemeatoverthefirewishingtopreservethembutSabattistoldmethatImustskinandcurethemelsethehairwouldallcomeoffHeobservedthat they made tobacco pouches of the skins of their ears putting the twotogetherinsidetoinsideIaskedhimhowhegotfireandheproducedalittle

cylindrical box of friction matches He also had flints and steel and somepunkwhichwasnotdryI thinkitwasfromtheyellowbirchButsupposeyouupsetandalltheseandyourpowdergetwetThensaidhewewaittillwegettowherethereissomefireIproducedfrommypocketalittlevialcontainingmatchesstoppledwater-tightandtoldhimthat thoughwewereupset we should still have some dry matches at which he stared withoutsayingawordWe lay awake thus a long while talking and they gave us the meaning ofmanyIndiannamesoflakesandstreamsinthevicinitymdashespeciallyTahmuntI asked the Indian name of Moosehead Lake Joe answered SebamookTahmunt pronounced it Sebemook When I asked what it meant theyansweredMooseheadLakeAt lengthgettingmymeaning theyalternatelyrepeatedthewordovertothemselvesasaphilologistmightmdashSebamookmdashSebamookmdashnowand thencomparingnotes in Indian for therewasaslightdifferenceintheirdialectsandfinallyTahmuntsaidUghIknowmdashandherose up partly on the moose-hidemdashlike as here is a place and there is aplacepointingtodifferentpartsofthehideandyoutakewaterfromthereandfill thisand it stayshere that isSebamook Iunderstoodhim tomeanthatitwasareservoirofwaterwhichdidnotrunawaytherivercominginononesideandpassingoutagainnearthesameplaceleavingapermanentbayAnotherIndiansaidthatitmeantLargeBayLakeandthatSebagoandSebecthenamesofotherlakeswerekindredwordsmeaninglargeopenwaterJoesaidthatSebooismeantLittleRiverIobservedtheirinabilityoftendescribedto convey an abstract idea Having got the idea though indistinctly theygropedaboutinvainforwordswithwhichtoexpressitTahmuntthoughtthatthewhitescalleditMooseheadLakebecauseMountKineowhichcommandsitisshapedlikeamoosesheadandthatMooseRiverwassocalledbecausethemountainpointsrightacrossthelaketoitsmouthJohnJosselynwritingabout1673 says Twelvemiles fromCascoBayandpassable formenandhorsesisalakecalledbytheIndiansSebugOnthebrinkthereofatoneendisthefamousrockshapedlikeamoosedeerorhelkdiaphanousandcalledtheMoose RockHe appears to have confounded Sebamookwith SebagowhichisnearerbuthasnodiaphanousrockonitsshoreIgivemoreoftheirdefinitionsforwhattheyareworthmdashpartlybecausetheydiffer sometimes from the commonly received ones They never analyzedthesewordsbeforeAfterlongdeliberationandrepeatingofthewordmdashforitgave much troublemdashTahmunt said that Chesuncook meant a place wheremany streams emptied in () and he enumerated themmdashPenobscotUmbazookskusCusabesexRedBrooketcCaucomgomocmdashwhatdoesthatmeanWhatare those largewhitebirdsheaskedGulls said I UghGull Lake Pammadumcook Joe thought meant the Lake with GravellyBottomorBedKenduskeagTahmuntconcludedatlastafteraskingifbirches

went up itmdashfor he said that he was not much acquainted with itmdashmeantsomethinglikethisYougoupPenobscottillyoucometoKenduskeagandyougobyyoudont turnup thereThat isKenduskeag ()Another IndianhoweverwhoknewtheriverbettertoldusafterwardthatitmeantLittleEelRiverMattawamkeagwasaplacewheretworiversmeet()PenobscotwasRocky River One writer says that this was originally the name of only asectionofthemainchannelfromtheheadofthetide-watertoashortdistanceaboveOldtownA very intelligent Indian whom we afterward met son-in-law of Neptunegave us also these other definitions Umbazookskus MeadowStreamMillinoket Place of Islands Aboljacarmegus Smooth-Ledge Falls(andDeadwater)Aboljacarmeguscook thestreamemptying in (the lastwasthe word he gave when I asked about Aboljacknagesic which he did notrecognize)MattahumkeagSand-CreekPondPiscataquisBranchofaRiverI asked our hosts what Musketaquid the Indian name of ConcordMassachusettsmeantbuttheychangedittoMusketicookandrepeatedthatandTahmunt said that itmeantDeadStreamwhich is probably trueCookappearstomeanstreamandperhapsquidsignifiestheplaceorgroundWhenIaskedthemeaningofthenamesoftwoofourhillstheyansweredthattheywere another language As Tahmunt said that he traded at Quebec mycompanioninquiredthemeaningof thewordQuebecaboutwhichtherehasbeensomuchquestionHedidnotknowbutbegantoconjectureHeaskedwhat those great ships were called that carried soldiers Men-of-war weanswered Well he said when the English ships came up the river theycouldnotgoanyfartheritwassonarrowtheretheymustgobackmdashgo-backmdashthatsQue-becImentionthistoshowthevalueofhisauthorityintheothercasesLate at night the other two Indians came home from moose-hunting nothaving been successful aroused the fire again lighted their pipes smokedawhiletooksomethingstrongtodrinkandatesomemoosemeatandfindingwhatroomtheycouldlaydownonthemoose-hidesandthuswepassedthenighttwowhitemenandfourIndianssidebysideWhenIawokein themorningtheweatherwasdrizzlingOneof theIndianswas lying outside rolled in his blanket on the opposite side of the fire forwantofroomJoehadneglectedtoawakemycompanionandhehaddonenohunting that night Tahmunt was making a cross-bar for his canoe with asingularly shaped knife such as I have since seen other Indians using Thebladewasthinaboutthreequartersofaninchwideandeightornineincheslong but curved out of its plane into a hook which he said made it moreconvenienttoshavewithAstheIndiansveryfarnorthandnorthwestusethesame kind of knife I suspect that it was made according to an aboriginal

patternthoughsomewhiteartisansmayuseasimilaroneTheIndiansbakedaloafofflourbreadinaspideronitsedgebeforethefirefortheirbreakfastandwhilemycompanionwasmaking tea Icaughtadozensizablefishes inthePenobscottwokindsofsuckerandonetroutAfterwehadbreakfastedbyourselvesoneofourbed-fellowswhohadalsobreakfastedcamealongandbeing invited took a cup of tea and finally taking up the common platterlicked it cleanBut hewas nothing to awhite fellow a lumbererwhowascontinuallystuffinghimselfwiththeIndiansmoosemeatandwasthebuttofhiscompanionsaccordinglyHeseemstohavethoughtthatitwasafeasttoeatallItiscommonlysaidthatthewhitemanfinallysurpassestheIndianonhis own ground and it was proved true in this case I cannot swear to hisemploymentduringthehoursofdarknessbutIsawhimatitagainassoonasitwaslightthoughhecameaquarterofamiletohisworkTherainpreventedourcontinuinganylongerinthewoodssogivingsomeofourprovisionsandutensilstotheIndianswetookleaveofthemThisbeingthesteamersdayIsetoutforthelakeatonceIwalkedoverthecarryaloneandwaitedattheheadofthelakeAneagleorsomeotherlargebirdflewscreamingawayfromitsperchbytheshoreatmyapproachForanhourafterIreachedtheshoretherewasnotahumanbeingtobeseenandIhadallthatwideprospecttomyselfIthoughtthatIheardthesoundofthesteamerbeforeshecameinsightontheopenlakeInoticedatthelandingwhenthesteamercameinoneofourbed-fellowswhohadbeena-moose-hunting thenightbefore nowvery sprucelydressed in a cleanwhiteshirtandfineblackpantsatrueIndiandandywhohadevidentlycomeoverthe carry to show himself to any arrivers on the north shore ofMooseheadLake just asNewYork dandies take a turn upBroadway and stand on thestepsofahotelMidwaythelakewetookonboardtwomanly-lookingmiddle-agedmenwiththeirbatteauwhohadbeenexploringforsixweeksasfarastheCanadalineandhadlettheirbeardsgrowTheyhadtheskinofabeaverwhichtheyhadrecentlycaughtstretchedonanovalhoopthoughthefurwasnotgoodatthatseasonItalkedwithoneofthemtellinghimthatIhadcomeallthisdistancepartlytoseewherethewhitepine theEasternstuffofwhichourhousesarebuilt grew but that on this and a previous excursion into another part ofMaineIhadfounditascarcetreeandIaskedhimwhereImustlookforitWithasmileheansweredthathecouldhardlytellmeHoweverhesaidthathehad foundenough toemploy two teams thenextwinter inaplacewheretherewas thought tobenone leftWhatwasconsideredatip-top treenowwasnotlookedattwentyyearsagowhenhefirstwentintothebusinessbuttheysucceededverywellnowwithwhatwasconsideredquiteinferiortimberthenTheexplorerusedtocutintoatreehigherandhigheruptoseeifitwas

false-heartedandiftherewasarottenheartasbigashisarmheletitalonebutnowtheycutsuchatreeandsaweditallaroundtherotanditmadetheverybestofboardsforinsuchacasetheywerenevershakyOneconnectedwith lumberingoperationsatBangor toldme that the largestpinebelongingtohisfirmcutthepreviouswinterscaledinthewoodsfourthousand five hundred feet and was worth ninety dollars in the log at theBangorboominOldtownTheycutaroadthreeandahalfmileslongforthistreealoneHethoughtthattheprincipallocalityforthewhitepinethatcamedownthePenobscotnowwasattheheadoftheEastBranchandtheAllegashaboutWebster Stream and Eagle and Chamberlain lakes Much timber hasbeen stolen from the public lands (Pray what kind of forest-warden is thePublic itself) Iheardofonemanwhohavingdiscoveredsomeparticularlyfine trees just within the boundaries of the public lands and not daring toemploy an accomplice cut them down and bymeans of block and tacklewithout cattle tumbled them into a stream and so succeeded in getting offwiththemwithouttheleastassistanceSurelystealingpinetreesinthiswayisnotsomeanasrobbinghen-roostsWereachedMonsonthatnightandthenextdayrodetoBangorallthewayinthe rain again varying our route a little Some of the taverns on this roadwhichwereparticularlydirtywereplainlyinatransitionstatefromthecamptothehouseThe next forenoon we went to Oldtown One slender old Indian on theOldtown shore who recognized my companion was full of mirth andgestureslikeaFrenchmanACatholicpriestcrossedtotheislandinthesamebatteauwith us The Indian houses are framedmostly of one story and inrowsonebehindanotherat thesouthendof theislandwithafewscatteredonesIcountedaboutfortynotincludingthechurchandwhatmycompanioncalled thecouncil-houseThe lastwhich I suppose is their town-housewasregularlyframedandshingledliketherestTherewereseveraloftwostoriesquiteneatwithfrontyards inclosedandoneat leasthadgreenblindsHereandthereweremoose-hidesstretchedanddryingabout themTherewerenocart-pathsnortracksofhorsesbutfootpathsverylittlelandcultivatedbutanabundanceofweedsindigenousandnaturalizedmoreintroducedweedsthanuseful vegetables as the Indian is said to cultivate the vices rather than thevirtues of the white man Yet this village was cleaner than I expected farcleaner than such Irish villages as I have seen The children were notparticularly ragged nor dirty The little boys met us with bow in hand andarrowonstringandcriedPutupacentVerilytheIndianhasbutafeebleholdonhisbownowbutthecuriosityofthewhitemanisinsatiableandfromthefirsthehasbeeneagertowitnessthisforestaccomplishmentThatelasticpieceofwoodwithitsfeathereddartsosuretobeunstrungbycontactwith

civilizationwillserveforthetypethecoat-of-armsofthesavageAlasfortheHunterRacethewhitemanhasdrivenofftheirgameandsubstitutedacentinitsplaceIsawanIndianwomanwashingatthewatersedgeShestoodonarockandafterdippingtheclothesinthestreamlaidthemontherockandbeatthemwithashortclubInthegraveyardwhichwascrowdedwithgravesand overrun with weeds I noticed an inscription in Indian painted on awoodengrave-boardTherewasalargewoodencrossontheislandSincemycompanionknewhimwecalledonGovernorNeptunewholivedina little ten-footer one of the humblest of them all Personalities areallowableinspeakingofpublicmenthereforeIwillgivetheparticularsofourvisit Hewas abedWhenwe entered the roomwhichwas one half of thehousehewassittingonthesideofthebedTherewasaclockhanginginonecorner He had on a black frock coat and black pants much worn whitecottonshirtsocksaredsilkhandkerchiefabouthisneckandastrawhatHisblack hair was only slightly grayed He had very broad cheeks and hisfeatures were decidedly and refreshingly different from those of any of theupstartNativeAmericanpartywhomIhaveseenHewasnodarkerthanmanyoldwhitemenHetoldmethathewaseighty-ninebuthewasgoinga-moose-hunting that fall ashehadbeen thepreviousoneProbablyhiscompanionsdidthehuntingWesawvarioussquawsdodgingaboutOnesatonthebedbyhissideandhelpedhimoutwithhisstoriesTheywereremarkablycorpulentwithsmoothroundfacesapparentlyfullofgood-humorCertainlyourmuch-abusedclimatehadnotdrieduptheiradiposesubstanceWhileweweretheremdashforwestayedagoodwhilemdashonewentover toOldtownreturnedandcutoutadresswhichshehadboughtonanotherbedintheroomTheGovernorsaidthathecouldrememberwhenthemooseweremuchlargerthattheydidnotusetobeinthewoodsbutcameoutofthewaterasalldeerdidMoosewas whale once Away down Merrimack way a whale came ashore in ashallow bay Seawent out and left him and he came up on land amooseWhatmadethemknowhewasawhalewas thatat firstbeforehebegantoruninbusheshehadnobowelsinsidebutmdashandthenthesquawwhosatonthebedbyhissideastheGovernorsaidandhadbeenputtinginawordnowandthenandconfirmingthestoryaskedmewhatwecalledthatsoftthingwefindalongtheseashoreJelly-fishIsuggestedYessaidhenobowelsbutjelly-fishThere may be some truth in what he said about the moose growing largerformerly for thequaintJohnJosselynaphysicianwhospentmanyyears inthisverydistrictofMaineintheseventeenthcenturysaysthatthetipsoftheirhornsaresometimesfoundtobetwofathomsasundermdashandheisparticulartotellusthatafathomissixfeetmdashand[theyare]inheightfromthetoeofthe fore foot to thepitchof the shoulder twelve footbothwhichhathbeentaken by some ofmy sceptique readers to bemonstrous lies and he adds

There are certain transcendentia in every creature which are the indeliblecharacterofGodandwhichdiscoverGodThis isagreaterdilemma tobecaught in than is presented by the cranium of the young Bechuana oxapparently another of the transcendentia in the collection of Thomas SteelUpper Brook Street London whose entire length of horn from tip to tipalongthecurveis13ft5indistance(straight)betweenthetipsofthehorns8 ft8frac12 inHowever the sizebothof themooseand thecougar as IhavefoundisgenerallyratherunderratedthanoverratedandIshouldbeinclinedtoaddtothepopularestimateapartofwhatIsubtractedfromJosselynsButwetalkedmostlywiththeGovernorsson-in-lawaverysensibleIndianand the Governor being so old and deaf permitted himself to be ignoredwhile we asked questions about him The former said that there were twopoliticalpartiesamongthemmdashoneinfavorofschoolsandtheotheropposedto themor rather theydidnotwish to resist thepriestwhowasopposed tothem The first had just prevailed at the election and sent their man to thelegislatureNeptuneandAitteonandhehimselfwereinfavorofschoolsHesaidIfIndiansgotlearningtheywouldkeeptheirmoneyWhenweaskedwhereJoesfatherAitteonwasheknewthathemustbeatLincolnthoughhewas about going a-moose-hunting for amessenger had just gone to himtheretogethissignaturetosomepapersIaskedNeptuneiftheyhadanyoftheoldbreedofdogsyetHeansweredYesButthatsaidIpointingtoonethathadjustcomeinisaYankeedogHeassentedIsaidthathedidnot look likeagoodone Ohyeshe said andhe toldwithmuchgustohowtheyearbeforehehadcaughtandheldbythethroatawolfAverysmallblackpuppyrushedintotheroomandmadeattheGovernorsfeetashesatinhis stockingswithhis legsdangling from thebedsideTheGovernor rubbedhis hands and dared him to come on entering into the sport with spiritNothingmore thatwas significant transpired tomy knowledge during thisinterviewThiswasthefirsttimethatIevercalledonagovernorbutasIdidnotaskforanofficeIcanspeakofitwiththemorefreedomAnIndianwhowasmakingcanoesbehindahouselookinguppleasantlyfromhis workmdashfor he knewmy companionmdashsaid that his namewasOld JohnPennyweightIhadheardofhimlongbeforeandI inquiredafteroneofhiscontemporariesJoeFour-pence-hapennybutalashenolongercirculatesImade a faithful study of canoe-building and I thought that I should like toserveanapprenticeshipatthattradeforoneseasongoingintothewoodsforbarkwithmybossmakingthecanoethereandreturninginitatlastWhilethebatteauwascomingovertotakeusoffIpickedupsomefragmentsofarrowheadsontheshoreandonebrokenstonechiselwhichweregreaternoveltiestotheIndiansthantomeAfterthisonOldFortHillatthebendofthe Penobscot three miles above Bangor looking for the site of an Indian

townwhichsomethinkstoodthereaboutsIfoundmorearrowheadsandtwolittledarkandcrumblingfragmentsofIndianearthenwareintheashesoftheirfiresTheIndiansontheislandappearedtolivequitehappilyandtobewelltreatedbytheinhabitantsofOldtownWe visitedVeaziesmills just below the islandwherewere sixteen sets ofsawsmdashsomegangsawssixteeninagangnot tomentioncircularsawsOnonesidetheywerehaulingthelogsupaninclinedplanebywater-powerontheotherpassingouttheboardsplanksandsawedtimberandformingtheminto raftsThe treeswere literallydrawnandquartered there In forming therafts they use the lower three feet of hard-wood saplings which have acrookedandknobbedbutt-endforboltspassingthemupthroughholesboredin the corners and sidesof the rafts andkeying them In another apartmenttheyweremakingfence-slatssuchasstandalloverNewEnglandoutofoddsand ends and it may be that I sawwhere the picket-fence behind which Idwell at home came from Iwas surprised to find a boy collecting the longedgingsofboardsasfastascutoffandthrustingthemdownahopperwherethey were ground up beneath the mill that they might be out of the wayotherwisetheyaccumulateinvastpilesbythesideofthebuildingincreasingthedangerfromfireorfloatingofftheyobstructtheriverThiswasnotonlya sawmill but a gristmill then The inhabitants ofOldtown Stillwater andBangorcannotsufferforwantofkindlingstuffsurelySomeget their livingexclusively by picking up the driftwood and selling it by the cord in thewinterInoneplaceIsawwhereanIrishmanwhokeepsateamandamanforthepurposehadcoveredtheshoreforalongdistancewithregularpilesandIwas told that he had sold twelve hundred dollarsworth in a yearAnotherwholivedbytheshoretoldmethathegotallthematerialofhisoutbuildingsandfencesfromtheriverandinthatneighborhoodIperceivedthatthisrefusewood was frequently used instead of sand to fill hollows with beingapparentlycheaperthandirtIgotmyfirstclearviewofKtaadnon thisexcursion fromahillabout twomilesnorthwestofBangorwhither Iwent for thispurposeAfter this IwasreadytoreturntoMassachusettsHumboldthaswrittenaninterestingchapterontheprimitiveforestbutnoonehasyetdescribed forme thedifferencebetween thatwild forestwhichonceoccupiedouroldesttownshipsandthetameonewhichIfindthereto-dayItisadifferencewhichwouldbeworthattending toThecivilizedmannotonlyclearsthelandpermanentlytoagreatextentandcultivatesopenfieldsbuthetamesandcultivatestoacertainextenttheforestitselfByhismerepresencealmosthechangesthenatureofthetreesasnoothercreaturedoesThesunand air and perhaps fire have been introduced and grain raised where itstands It has lost itswild damp and shaggy look the countless fallen and

decayingtreesaregoneandconsequentlythatthickcoatofmosswhichlivedonthemisgonetooTheearthiscomparativelybareandsmoothanddryThemostprimitiveplacesleftwithusaretheswampswherethesprucestillgrowsshaggy with usnea The surface of the ground in the Maine woods iseverywhere spongy and saturated with moisture I noticed that the plantswhich cover the forest floor there are such as are commonly confined toswamps with usmdashtheClintonia borealis orchises creeping snowberry andothersand theprevailingaster there is theAsteracuminatuswhichwithusgrowsindampandshadywoodsTheasterscordifoliusandmacrophyllusalsoarecommonastersoflittleornocolorandsometimeswithoutpetalsIsawno soft spreading second-growth white pines with smooth barkacknowledging the presence of thewoodchopper but even the youngwhitepineswerealltallandslenderrough-barkedtreesThose Maine woods differ essentially from ours There you are neverreminded that the wilderness which you are threading is after all somevillagers familiarwood-lot somewidows thirds fromwhich her ancestorshavesleddedfuelforgenerationsminutelydescribedinsomeolddeedwhichisrecordedofwhichtheownerhasgotaplantooandoldbound-marksmaybe foundevery forty rods ifyouwill search Tis true themapmay informyou that you stand on land granted by the State to some academy or onBinghams purchase but these names do not impose on you for you seenothingtoremindyouoftheacademyorofBinghamWhatweretheforestsofEnglandtotheseOnewriterrelatesoftheIsleofWightthatinCharlestheSecondstimetherewerewoodsintheislandsocompleteandextensivethatitissaidasquirrelmighthavetraveledinseveralpartsmanyleaguestogetheron the topof the trees If itwerenot for the rivers (andhemightgo roundtheirheads)asquirrelcouldheretravelthusthewholebreadthofthecountryWe have as yet had no adequate account of a primitive pine forest I havenoticedthatinaphysicalatlaslatelypublishedinMassachusettsandusedinourschoolsthewoodlandofNorthAmericaislimitedalmostsolelytothevalleysoftheOhioandsomeoftheGreatLakesandthegreatpineforestsoftheglobearenotrepresentedInourvicinityforinstanceNewBrunswickandMaine are exhibited as bare as Greenland It may be that the children ofGreenville at the foot ofMoosehead Lakewho surely are not likely to bescared by an owl are referred to the valley of theOhio to get an idea of aforestbut theywouldnotknowwhat todowith theirmoosebearcariboubeaver etc thereShallwe leave it to anEnglishman to informus that inNorthAmericabothintheUnitedStatesandCanadaarethemostextensivepineforests in theworldThegreaterpartofNewBrunswick thenorthernhalfofMaineandadjacentpartsofCanadanot tomentionthenortheasternpartofNewYorkandothertractsfartheroffarestillcoveredwithanalmostunbrokenpineforest

ButMaineperhapswillsoonbewhereMassachusettsisAgoodpartofherterritory is alreadyasbare andcommonplaceasmuchofourneighborhoodandhervillagesgenerally arenot sowell shadedasoursWe seem to thinkthat the earth must go through the ordeal of sheep-pasturage before it ishabitablebymanConsiderNahanttheresortofallthefashionofBostonmdashwhichpeninsula I sawbut indistinctly in the twilightwhen I steamedby itandthoughtthatitwasunchangedsincethediscoveryJohnSmithdescribeditin 1614 as the Mattahunts two pleasant isles of groves gardens andcornfields and others tell us that it was once well wooded and evenfurnishedtimbertobuildthewharvesofBostonNowitisdifficulttomakeatreegrowthereandthevisitorcomesawaywithavisionofMrTudorsuglyfences a rod high designed to protect a fewpear shrubsAndwhat arewecoming to inourMiddlesex townsAbald staring town-houseormeeting-houseandabareliberty-poleasleaflessasitisfruitlessforallIcanseeWeshall be obliged to import the timber for the last hereafter or splice suchsticksaswehaveAndourideasoflibertyareequallymeanwiththeseThevery willow-rows lopped every three years for fuel or powder and everysizablepineandoakorotherforesttreecutdownwithinthememoryofmanAsifindividualspeculatorsweretobeallowedtoexportthecloudsoutoftheskyorthestarsoutofthefirmamentonebyoneWeshallbereducedtognawtheverycrustoftheearthfornutrimentThey have even descended to smaller game They have lately as I hearinvented a machine for chopping up huckleberry bushes fine and soconverting them into fuelmdashbusheswhich for fruit alone areworth all thepear trees in thecountrymanytimesover (Icangiveyoua listof the threebestkindsifyouwantit)Atthisrateweshallallbeobligedtoletourbeardsgrow at least if only to hide the nakedness of the land andmake a sylvanappearanceThe farmer sometimes talks of brushingup simply as if bareground looked better than clothed ground than thatwhichwears its naturalvesturemdashasifthewildhedgeswhichperhapsaremoretohischildrenthanhiswholefarmbesideweredirtIknowofonewhodeservestobecalledtheTree-hater and perhaps to leave this for a newpatronymic to his childrenYouwouldthinkthathehadbeenwarnedbyanoraclethathewouldbekilledby the fallof a tree and sowas resolved toanticipate themThe journaliststhink that they cannot say too much in favor of such improvements inhusbandryitisasafethemelikepietybutasforthebeautyofoneofthesemodelfarmsIwouldasliefseeapatentchurnandamanturningitTheyare commonlyplacesmerelywhere somebody ismakingmoney itmaybecounterfeitingThevirtueofmakingtwobladesofgrassgrowwhereonlyonegrewbeforedoesnotbegintobesuperhumanNevertheless it was a relief to get back to our smooth but still variedlandscapeForapermanentresidenceitseemedtomethattherecouldbeno

comparison between this and thewilderness necessary as the latter is for aresource and a background the raw material of all our civilization ThewildernessissimplealmosttobarrennessThepartiallycultivatedcountryitiswhichchieflyhasinspiredandwillcontinuetoinspirethestrainsofpoetssuchascompose themassofany literatureOurwoodsaresylvanand theirinhabitants woodmen and rustics that is selvaggia and the inhabitants aresalvagesAcivilizedmanusingthewordintheordinarysensewithhisideasand associations must at length pine there like a cultivated plant whichclasps its fibresaboutacrudeandundissolvedmassofpeatAt theextremenorth the voyagers are obliged to dance and act plays for employmentPerhaps our own woods and fieldsmdashin the best wooded towns where weneed not quarrel about the huckleberriesmdashwith the primitive swampsscatteredhereand there in theirmidstbutnotprevailingover themare theperfectionofparksandgrovesgardensarborspathsvistasandlandscapesTheyare thenaturalconsequenceofwhatartandrefinementweasapeoplehavemdashthe common which each village possesses its true paradise incomparisonwithwhichallelaboratelyandwillfullywealth-constructedparksandgardensarepaltryimitationsOrIwouldrathersaysuchwereourgrovestwenty years ago The poets commonly is not a loggers path but awoodmansTheloggerandpioneerhaveprecededhimlikeJohntheBaptisteatenthewildhoneyitmaybebutthelocustsalsobanisheddecayingwoodand the spongy mosses which feed on it and built hearths and humanizedNatureforhimBut there are spirits of a yetmore liberal culture towhomno simplicity isbarrenTherearenotonlystatelypinesbutfragileflowersliketheorchisescommonly described as too delicate for cultivation which derive theirnutriment fromthecrudestmassofpeatTheseremindus thatnotonlyforstrengthbut forbeauty thepoetmust fromtime to time travel the loggerspathandtheIndianstrailtodrinkatsomenewandmorebracingfountainoftheMusesfarintherecessesofthewildernessThekingsofEnglandformerlyhadtheirforeststoholdthekingsgameforsportor food sometimesdestroyingvillages tocreateorextend themand IthinkthattheywereimpelledbyatrueinstinctWhyshouldnotwewhohaverenouncedthekingsauthorityhaveournationalpreserveswherenovillagesneedbedestroyedinwhichthebearandpantherandsomeevenofthehunterrace may still exist and not be civilized off the face of the earthmdashourforestsnottoholdthekingsgamemerelybuttoholdandpreservethekinghimself also the lord of creationmdashnot for idle sport or food but forinspiration and our own true recreation or shall we like the villains grubthemalluppoachingonourownnationaldomains

THEALLEGASHANDEASTBRANCH

I startedonmy thirdexcursion to theMainewoodsMonday July201857withonecompanionarrivingatBangorthenextdayatnoonWehadhardlyleftthesteamerwhenwepassedMollyMolassesinthestreetAslongasshelives the Penobscots may be considered extant as a tribe The succeedingmorning a relative of mine who is well acquainted with the PenobscotIndiansandwhohadbeenmycompanioninmytwopreviousexcursionsintotheMainewoodstookmeinhiswagontoOldtowntoassistmeinobtaininganIndianforthisexpeditionWewereferriedacrosstotheIndianIslandinabatteauThe ferrymansboyhadgot thekey to itbut the fatherwhowasablacksmithafteralittlehesitationcutthechainwithacold-chiselontherockHe told me that the Indians were nearly all gone to the seaboard and toMassachusetts partly on account of the smallpoxmdashof which they are verymuchafraidmdashhavingbrokenoutinOldtownanditwasdoubtfulwhetherweshouldfindasuitableoneathomeTheoldchiefNeptunehoweverwastherestillThe firstmanwesawon the islandwasan IndiannamedJosephPoliswhommy relative had known from a boy and now addressed familiarly asJoeHewas dressing a deer-skin in his yardThe skinwas spread over aslantinglogandhewasscrapingitwithastickheldbybothhandsHewasstoutlybuiltperhapsalittleabovethemiddleheightwithabroadfaceandasotherssaidperfectIndianfeaturesandcomplexionHishousewasatwo-storywhiteonewithblindsthebest-lookingthatInoticedthereandasgoodas an average one on aNewEngland village street Itwas surrounded by agarden and fruit-trees single cornstalks standing thinly amid the beansWeaskedhimifheknewanygoodIndianwhowouldlike togointo thewoodswithus that is to theAllegashLakesbywayofMooseheadandreturnbytheEastBranchofthePenobscotorvaryfromthisaswepleasedTowhichheansweredoutofthatstrangeremotenessinwhichtheIndianeverdwellstothewhitemanMeliketogomyselfmewantstogetsomemooseandkepton scraping the skinHis brother had been into thewoodswithmy relativeonly a year or two before and the Indian now inquiredwhat the latter haddone tohim thathedidnotcomeback forhehadnotseennorheard fromhimsinceAtlengthwegotroundtothemoreinterestingtopicagainTheferrymanhadtoldus thatall thebest IndiansweregoneexceptPoliswhowasoneof thearistocracyHetobesurewouldbethebestmanwecouldhavebutifhewentatallwouldwantagreatpricesowedidnotexpecttogethimPolisaskedatfirsttwodollarsadaybutagreedtogoforadollarandahalfandfiftycentsaweek for his canoeHewould come toBangorwithhis canoeby the sevenoclock train that eveningmdashwemightdependonhimWe thoughtourselveslucky to secure the services of thismanwhowas known to be particularly

steadyandtrustworthyI spent the afternoonwithmy companionwho had remained inBangor inpreparingforourexpeditionpurchasingprovisionshard-breadporkcoffeesugaretcandsomeindia-rubberclothingWehadatfirstthoughtofexploringtheStJohnfromitssourcetoitsmouthorelsetogoupthePenobscotbyitsEastBranchtothelakesoftheStJohnandreturnbywayofChesuncookandMooseheadWehadfinallyinclinedtothelastrouteonlyreversingtheorderofitgoingbywayofMooseheadandreturningbythePenobscototherwiseitwouldhavebeenallthewayupstreamandtakentwiceaslongAteveningtheIndianarrivedinthecarsandIledthewaywhilehefollowedmethreequartersofamiletomyfriendshousewiththecanoeonhisheadIdidnotknowtheexactroutemyselfbutsteeredbythelayofthelandasIdoin Boston and I tried to enter into conversation with him but as he waspuffing under the weight of his canoe not having the usual apparatus forcarryingitbutaboveallwasanIndianImightaswellhavebeenthumpingon the bottom of his birch thewhile In answer to the various observationswhich I made by way of breaking the ice he only grunted vaguely frombeneathhiscanoeonceortwicesothatIknewhewasthereEarly the nextmorning (July 23) the stage called for us the Indian havingbreakfastedwithusandalreadyplacedthebaggageinthecanoetoseehowitwouldgoMycompanionandIhadeachalargeknapsackasfullasitwouldhold andwehad two large india-rubber bagswhich held our provision andutensilsAsfortheIndianallthebaggagehehadbesidehisaxeandgunwasablanketwhichhebroughtlooseinhishandHoweverhehadlaidinastoreof tobaccoandanewpipefor theexcursionThecanoewassecurely lasheddiagonally across the top of the stage with bits of carpet tucked under theedgetopreventitschafingTheveryaccommodatingdriverappearedasmuchaccustomedtocarryingcanoesinthiswayasbandboxesAttheBangorHousewetookinfourmenboundonahuntingexcursiononeof the men going as cook They had a dog a middling-sized brindled curwhichranbythesideofthestagehismastershowinghisheadandwhistlingfrom time to time but after we had gone about three miles the dog wassuddenlymissing and two of the partywent back for himwhile the stagewhichwasfullofpassengerswaitedIsuggestedthathehadtakenthebacktrack for theBangorHouseAt length oneman came backwhile the otherkeptonThiswholepartyofhuntersdeclaredtheirintentiontostoptillthedogwasfoundbut theveryobligingdriverwasready towaitaspell longerHewasevidentlyunwillingtolosesomanypassengerswhowouldhavetakenaprivate conveyance or perhaps the other line of stages the next day Suchprogressdidwemakewithajourneyofoversixtymilestobeaccomplished

thatdayandarain-stormjustsettinginWediscussedthesubjectofdogsandtheirinstinctstillitwasthreadbarewhilewewaitedthereandthesceneryofthesuburbsofBangor is stilldistinctly impressedonmymemoryAfter fullhalfanhour theman returned leading thedogbya ropeHehadovertakenhimjustashewasenteringtheBangorHouseHewasthentiedonthetopofthestagebutbeingwetandcoldseveraltimesinthecourseofthejourneyhejumpedoffandIsawhimdanglingbyhisneckThisdogwasdependedontostopbearswithHehadalreadystoppedonesomewhere inNewHampshireandIcantestifythathestoppedastageinMaineThispartyoffourprobablypaidnothingfor thedogsridenorforhisrunwhileourpartyof threepaidtwodollarsmdashandwerechargedfourmdashforthelightcanoewhichlaystillonthetopItsoonbegantorainandgrewmoreandmorestormyas thedayadvancedThiswasthethirdtimethatIhadpassedoverthisrouteanditrainedsteadilyeachtimealldayWeaccordinglysawbutlittleofthecountryThestagewascrowdedall theway and I attended themore tomy fellow-travelers If youhadlookedinsidethiscoachyouwouldhavethoughtthatwewerepreparedtorunthegauntletofabandofrobbersfortherewerefourorfivegunsonthefront seat the Indians included andoneor twoon thebackone eachmanholding his darling in his arms One had a gun which carried twelve to apound It appeared that this party of hunters was going our way butmuchfarthermdashdown theAllegashandSt Johnand thenceupsomeotherstreamandacrosstotheRestigoucheandtheBayofChaleurtobegonesixweeksTheyhadcanoesaxesandsuppliesdepositedsomedistancealongtherouteTheycarriedflourandweretohavenewbreadmadeeverydayTheirleaderwasahandsomemanaboutthirtyyearsoldofgoodheightbutnotapparentlyrobust of gentlemanly address and faultless toilet such a one as youmightexpecttomeetonBroadwayInfactinthepopularsenseofthewordhewasthemost gentlemanly appearingman in the stage or that we saw on theroadHehadafairwhitecomplexionasifhehadalwayslivedintheshadeandan intellectual faceandwithhisquietmannersmighthavepassedforadivinitystudentwhohadseensomethingoftheworldIwassurprisedtofindontalkingwithhiminthecourseofthedaysjourneythathewasahunteratallmdashforhisgunwasnotmuchexposedmdashandyetmore to find thathewasprobablythechiefwhitehunterofMaineandwasknownallalongtheroadHehadalsohuntedinsomeoftheStatesfarthersouthandwestIafterwardsheardhim spokenof asonewhocould endure agreat deal of exposure andfatiguewithoutshowingtheeffectof itandhecouldnotonlyusegunsbutmake them being himself a gunsmith In the spring he had saved a stage-driverandtwopassengersfromdrowninginthebackwaterofthePiscataquisinFoxcroftonthisroadhavingswumashoreinthefreezingwaterandmadearaft and got them offmdashthough the horses were drownedmdashat great risk to

himselfwhile the only othermanwho could swimwithdrew to the nearesthouse toprevent freezingHecouldnowrideover this road fornothingHeknewourmanandremarkedthatwehadagoodIndianthereagoodhunteradding that hewas said to beworth $6000The Indian also knewhim andsaidtomethegreathunterTheformertoldmethathepracticedakindofstill-huntingneworuncommonin those parts that the caribou for instance fed round and round the samemeadowreturningonthesamepathandhelayinwaitforthemThe Indian sat on the front seat saying nothing to anybody with a stolidexpression of face as if barely awake to what was going on Again I wasstruckbythepeculiarvaguenessofhisreplieswhenaddressedinthestageoratthetavernsHereallyneversaidanythingonsuchoccasionsHewasmerelystirred up like a wild beast and passively muttered some insignificantresponseHisanswerinsuchcaseswasnevertheconsequenceofapositivementalenergybutvagueasapuffofsmokesuggestingnoresponsibilityandifyouconsideredityouwouldfindthatyouhadgotnothingoutofhimThiswasinsteadoftheconventionalpalaverandsmartnessofthewhitemanandequally profitable Most get no more than this out of the Indian andpronouncehim stolid accordingly Iwas surprised to seewhat a foolish andimpertinentstyleaMainemanapassengerusedinaddressinghimas ifhewereachildwhichonlymadehiseyesglistenalittleAtipsyCanadianaskedhimatataverninadrawlingtoneifhesmokedtowhichheansweredwithan indefinite Yes Wontyou lendmeyourpipea littlewhileasked theotherHe replied looking straight by themans headwith a face singularlyvacanttoallneighboringinterestsMegotnopipeyetIhadseenhimputanewonewithasupplyoftobaccointohispocketthatmorningOur little canoe so neat and strong drew a favorable criticism from all thewiseacresamongthetavernloungersalongtheroadBytheroadsideclosetothewheelsInoticedasplendidgreatpurplefringedorchiswithaspikeasbigasanepilobiumwhich Iwould fainhavestopped the stage topluckbutasthishadneverbeenknowntostopabearlikethecuronthestagethedriverwouldprobablyhavethoughtitawasteoftimeWhenwe reached the lake about half past eight in the evening itwas stillsteadily raining andharder thanbefore and in that fresh cool atmospherethehylodeswerepeepingandthetoadsringingaboutthelakeuniversallyasin the springwithus Itwasas if the seasonhad revolvedbackward twoorthreemonthsorIhadarrivedattheabodeofperpetualspringWehadexpected togoupon the lakeatonceandafterpaddlingup twoorthreemiles to campononeof its islandsbutonaccountof the steadyandincreasingrainwedecidedtogotooneof thetavernsfor thenight thoughformyownpartIshouldhavepreferredtocampout

About four oclock the nextmorning (July 24) though it was quite cloudyaccompaniedbythelandlordtothewatersedgeinthetwilightwelaunchedourcanoefromarockontheMooseheadLakeWhenIwastherefouryearsbeforewehadarathersmallcanoeforthreepersonsandIhadthoughtthatthistimeIwouldgetalargeronebutthepresentonewasevensmallerthanthatItwas18frac14feetlongby2feet6frac12incheswideinthemiddleandonefootdeepwithinsoIfoundbymeasurementandIjudgedthatitwouldweighnotfar from eighty pounds The Indian had recently made it himself and itssmallnesswas partly compensated for by its newness aswell as stanchnessandsolidityitbeingmadeofverythickbarkandribsOurbaggageweighedabout 166pounds so that the canoe carried about 600pounds in all or theweightoffourmenTheprincipalpartofthebaggagewasasusualplacedinthemiddleofthebroadestpartwhilewestowedourselvesinthechinksandcrannies that were left before and behind it where there was no room toextendourlegstheloosearticlesbeingtuckedintotheendsThecanoewasthusascloselypackedasamarket-basketandmightpossiblyhavebeenupsetwithoutspillinganyofitscontentsTheIndiansatonacross-barinthesternbutwe flaton thebottomwitha splintorchipbehindourbacks toprotectthemfromthecross-barandoneofuscommonlypaddledwiththeIndianHeforesaw that we should not want a pole till we reached the UmbazookskusRiveritbeingeitherdeadwaterordown-streamsofarandhewaspreparedtomakeasailofhisblanketinthebowsifthewindshouldbefairbutweneveruseditIthadrainedmoreorlessthefourpreviousdayssothatwethoughtwemightcountonsomefairweatherThewindwasatfirstsouthwesterlyPaddlingalongtheeasternsideofthelakeinthestillofthemorningwesoonsaw a few sheldrakes which the Indian called Shecorways and somepeetweetsNaramekechuson therockyshorewealsosawandheard loonsMedawislawhichhe saidwas a signofwind Itwas inspiriting tohear theregulardipof thepaddlesas if theywereourfinsorflippersandtorealizethatwewereat length fairlyembarkedWewhohad felt strangelyas stage-passengersandtavern-lodgersweresuddenlynaturalizedthereandpresentedwiththefreedomofthelakesandthewoodsHavingpassedthesmallrockyisles within two or three miles of the foot of the lake we had a shortconsultation respectingour course and inclined to thewestern shore for thesakeof its leeforotherwise if thewindshouldrise itwouldbeimpossibleforustoreachMountKineowhichisaboutmidwayupthelakeontheeastsidebutatitsnarrowestpartwhereprobablywecouldrecrossifwetookthewesternsideThewindisthechiefobstacletocrossingthelakesespeciallyinso small a canoeThe Indian remarked several times that he did not like tocrossthelakesinlittlumcanoebutneverthelessjustaswesayitmadenooddstohimHesometimestookastraightcourseupthemiddleofthelake

betweenSugarandDeerislandswhentherewasnowindMeasured on themapMoosehead Lake is twelvemileswide at thewidestplaceandthirtymileslonginadirectlinebutlongerasitliesThecaptainofthesteamercalled it thirty-eightmilesashesteeredWeshouldprobablygoaboutfortyTheIndiansaidthatitwascalledMspamebecauselargewaterSquawMountainrosedarklyonourleftneartheoutletoftheKennebecandwhattheIndiancalledSpencerBayMountainontheeastandalreadywesawMountKineobeforeusinthenorthPaddling near the shore we frequently heard the pe-pe of the olive-sidedflycatcheralsothewoodpeweeandthekingfisherthusearlyinthemorningTheIndianremindingusthathecouldnotworkwithouteatingwestoppedtobreakfast on themain shore southwest of Deer Island at a spot where theMimulusringensgrewabundantlyWetookoutourbagsandtheIndianmadea fire under a very large bleached log usingwhite pinebark from a stumpthoughhesaid thathemlockwasbetterandkindlingwithcanoebirchbarkOurtablewasa largepieceoffreshlypeeledbirchbark laidwrongsideupandourbreakfastconsistedofhard-breadfriedporkandstrongcoffeewellsweetenedinwhichwedidnotmissthemilkWhileweweregettingbreakfastabroodoftwelveblackdippershalfgrowncame paddling by within three or four rods not at all alarmed and theyloitered about as long as we stayed now huddled close together within acircle of eighteen inches in diameter now moving off in a long line verycunninglyYettheyboreacertainproportiontothegreatMooseheadLakeonwhosebosomtheyfloatedandIfeltasiftheywereunderitsprotectionLookingnorthwardfromthisplaceitappearedasifwewereenteringalargebayandwedidnotknowwhetherweshouldbeobligedtodivergefromourcourse and keep outside a point which we saw or should find a passagebetweenthisandthemainlandIconsultedmymapandusedmyglassandtheIndiandidthesamebutwecouldnotfindourplaceexactlyonthemapnorcouldwedetectanybreakintheshoreWhenIaskedtheIndianthewayheansweredIdontknowwhichIthoughtremarkablesincehehadsaidthathewasfamiliarwiththelakebut itappearedthathehadneverbeenupthisside Itwasmistydog-dayweatherandwehadalreadypenetratedasmallerbayofthesamekindandknockedthebottomoutofitthoughwehadbeenobligedtopassoverasmallbarbetweenanislandandtheshorewheretherewasbutjustbreadthanddepthenoughtofloatthecanoeandtheIndianhadobservedVeryeasymakumbridgeherebutnowitseemedthatifweheldon we should be fairly embayed Presently however though we had notstirredthemistliftedsomewhatandrevealedabreakintheshorenorthwardshowing that thepointwasaportionofDeer Islandand thatourcourse laywestwardofitWhereithadseemedacontinuousshoreeventhroughaglass

oneportionwasnowseenbythenakedeyetobemuchmoredistantthantheotherwhichoverlappeditmerelybythegreater thicknessof themistwhichstillrestedonitwhilethenearerorislandportionwascomparativelybareandgreen The line of separationwas very distinct and the Indian immediatelyremarked I guess you and I go theremdashI guess theres room formy canoethere This was his common expression instead of saying we He neveraddressedusbyournamesthoughcurioustoknowhowtheywerespelledandwhat they meant while we called him Polis He had already guessed veryaccuratelyatouragesandsaidthathewasforty-eightAfterbreakfastIemptiedthemeltedporkthatwasleft intothelakemakingwhatsailorscallaslickandwatchingtoseehowmuchitspreadoverandsmoothed the agitated surface The Indian looked at it a moment and saidThatmakehardpaddlumthroholdemcanoeSosayoldtimesWehastilyreloadedputtingthedisheslooseinthebowsthattheymightbeathand when wanted and set out again The western shore near which wepaddled along rose gently to a considerable height and was everywheredenselycoveredwiththeforestinwhichwasalargeproportionofhardwoodtoenlivenandrelievethefirandspruceThe Indian said that the usnea lichenwhichwe sawhanging from the treeswascalledchorchorqueWeaskedhimthenamesofseveralsmallbirdswhichwe heard this morning The wood thrush which was quite common andwhose note he imitated he said was called Adelungquamooktum butsometimeshecouldnot tell thenameof somesmallbirdwhich Iheardandknew but he said I tell all the birds about heremdashthis country cant telllittlumnoisebutIseeemthenIcantellIobservedthatIshouldliketogotoschooltohimtolearnhislanguagelivingontheIndianislandthewhilecouldnotthatbedoneOhyerherepliedgoodmanydosoIaskedhowlonghethought itwouldtakeHesaidoneweekItoldhimthatinthisvoyageIwouldtellhimallIknewandheshouldtellmeallheknewtowhichhereadilyagreedThe birds sang quite as in our woodsmdashthe red-eye redstart veery woodpeweeetcbutwesawnobluebirdsinallourjourneyandseveraltoldmeinBangor that they had not the bluebird there Mount Kineo which wasgenerallyvisiblethoughoccasionallyconcealedbyislandsorthemainlandinfronthadalevelbarofcloudconcealingitssummitandallthemountain-topsabout the lake were cut off at the same height Ducks of various kindsmdashsheldrake summerducks etcmdashwerequite commonand ranover thewaterbeforeusasfastasahorsetrotsThustheyweresoonoutofsightTheIndianaskedthemeaningofrealityasnearasIcouldmakeoutthewordwhich he said one of us had used also of interrent that is intelligent I

observed that he could rarely sound the letter r but used l as also r for lsometimes as load for road pickelel for pickerel Soogle Island for SugarIslandlockforrocketcYethetrilledtherprettywellaftermeHegenerallyaddedthesyllableumtohiswordswhenhecouldmdashaspaddlumetc I have once heard a Chippeway lecture whomade his audience laughunintentionally by puttingm after the word too which word he brought incontinuallyandunnecessarilyaccentingandprolongingthissoundintom-ahsonorouslyasifitwerenecessarytobringinsomuchofhisvernacularasarelieftohisorgansacompensationfortwistinghisjawsaboutandputtinghistongueintoeverycornerofhismouthashecomplainedthathewasobligedtodowhenhespokeEnglishTherewassomuchoftheIndianaccentresoundingthroughhisEnglishsomuchofthebow-arrowtangasmyneighborcallsitand Ihavenodoubt thatwordseemed tohim thebestpronounced Itwasawild and refreshing sound like that of the wind among the pines or theboomingofthesurfontheshoreI asked him the meaning of the word Musketicook the Indian name ofConcord River He pronounced it Muskeacuteeticook emphasizing the secondsyllable with a peculiar guttural sound and said that it meant deadwaterwhichitisandinthisdefinitionheagreedexactlywiththeStFrancisIndianwithwhomItalkedin1853OnapointonthemainlandsomemilessouthwestofSand-barIslandwherewe landed to stretchour legsand lookat thevegetationgoing inlanda fewstepsIdiscoveredafirestillglowingbeneathitsasheswheresomebodyhadbreakfastedandabedoftwigspreparedforthefollowingnightSoIknewnotonlythattheyhadjustleftbutthattheydesignedtoreturnandbythebreadthof the bed that therewasmore than one in the partyYoumight have gonewithin six feet of these signs without seeing them There grew the beakedhazeltheonlyhazelwhichIsawonthisjourneythediervillaruesevenfeethighwhichwasveryabundantonall the lakeand river shores andCornusstoloniferaorredosierwhosebarktheIndiansaidwasgoodtosmokeandwas calledmaquoxigill tobacco beforewhite people came to this countryIndiantobaccoTheIndianwasalwaysverycareful inapproaching theshore lestheshouldinjurehiscanoeontherockslettingitswingroundslowlysidewiseandwasstillmoreparticularthatweshouldnotstepintoitonshorenortillitfloatedfreeandthenshouldstepgentlylestweshouldopenitsseamsormakeaholeinthebottomHesaidthathewouldtelluswhentojumpSoonafter leaving this pointwepassed theKennebec or outlet of the lakeand heard the falls at the dam there for evenMooseheadLake is dammedAfterpassingDeerIslandwesawthelittlesteamerfromGreenvillefareastin themiddleof the lakeandsheappearednearlystationarySometimeswe

couldhardlytellherfromanislandwhichhadafewtreesonitHerewewereexposedtothewindfromoverthewholebreadthofthelakeandranalittleriskofbeingswampedWhile Ihadmyeye fixedon thespotwherea largefishhadleapedwetookinagallonortwoofwaterwhichfilledmylapbutwesoonreachedtheshoreandtookthecanoeoverthebaratSand-barIslandafewfeetwideonlyandsosavedaconsiderabledistanceOnelandedfirstatamoreshelteredplaceandwalking roundcaught thecanoeby theprow topreventitbeinginjuredagainsttheshoreAgain we crossed a broad bay opposite the mouth ofMoose River beforereaching the narrow strait atMountKineomadewhat the voyageurs call atraverse and found thewaterquite roughAvery littlewindon thesebroadlakesraisesaseawhichwillswampacanoeLookingofffromtheshorethesurfacemayappeartobeverylittleagitatedalmostsmoothamiledistantorifyouseeafewwhitecreststheyappearnearlylevelwiththerestofthelakebutwhenyougetoutsofaryoumayfindquiteasearunninganderelongbeforeyouthinkofitawavewillgentlycreepupthesideofthecanoeandfillyour lap like a monster deliberately covering you with its slime before itswallowsyouoritwillstrikethecanoeviolentlyandbreakintoitThesamethingmayhappenwhenthewindrisessuddenlythoughitwereperfectlycalmandsmooththereafewminutesbeforesothatnothingcansaveyouunlessyoucanswimashoreforitisimpossibletogetintoacanoeagainwhenitisupset Since you sit flat on the bottom though the danger should not beimminentalittlewaterisagreatinconveniencenottomentionthewettingofyour provisionsWe rarely crossed even a bay directly frompoint to pointwhentherewaswindbutmadeaslightcurvecorrespondingsomewhattotheshorethatwemightthesoonerreachitifthewindincreasedWhen thewind isaftandnot toostrong the IndianmakesaspritsailofhisblanketHethuseasilyskimsoverthewholelengthofthislakeinadayTheIndianpaddledononesideandoneofusontheothertokeepthecanoesteadyandwhenhewantedtochangehandshewouldsayTothersideHeassertedinanswertoourquestionsthathehadneverupsetacanoehimselfthoughhemayhavebeenupsetbyothersThinkofour littleeggshellofacanoe tossingacross thatgreat lake amereblackspecktotheeaglesoaringaboveitMycompanion trailedfor troutaswepaddledalongbut theIndianwarninghimthatabigfishmightupsetusfortherearesomeverylargeonesthereheagreed to pass the line quickly to him in the stern if he had a biteBesidestroutIheardofcuskwhitefishetcasfoundinthislakeWhile wewere crossing this bay whereMount Kineo rose dark before uswithin two or three miles the Indian repeated the tradition respecting this

mountainshavingancientlybeenacowmoosemdashhowamightyIndianhunterwhosenameIforgetsucceededinkillingthisqueenofthemoosetribewithgreat difficulty while her calf was killed somewhere among the islands inPenobscotBayandtohiseyesthismountainhadstilltheformofthemooseina recliningposture itsprecipitoussidepresenting theoutlineofherheadHe told this at some length though it did not amount to much and withapparent good faith and asked us howwe supposed the hunter could havekilledsuchamightymooseasthatmdashhowwecoulddoitWhereuponaman-of-war to firebroadsides intoherwas suggested etcAn Indian tells suchastoryasifhethoughtitdeservedtohaveagooddealsaidaboutitonlyhehasnotgot it to say and sohemakesup for thedeficiencybyadrawling tonelong-windednessandadumbwonderwhichhehopeswillbecontagiousWe approached the land again through pretty roughwater and then steereddirectlyacrossthelakeatitsnarrowestparttotheeasternsideandweresoonpartlyundertheleeofthemountainaboutamilenorthoftheKineoHousehavingpaddledabouttwentymilesItwasnowaboutnoonWe designed to stop there that afternoon and night and spent half an hourlookingalongtheshorenorthwardforasuitableplacetocampWetookoutallourbaggageatoneplaceinvainitbeingtoorockyandunevenandwhileengagedinthissearchwemadeourfirstacquaintancewiththemoose-flyAtlength half amile farther north by going half a dozen rods into the densespruceandfirwoodonthesideofthemountainalmostasdarkasacellarwefoundaplacesufficientlyclearandleveltoliedownonaftercuttingawayafewbushesWerequiredaspaceonlysevenfeetbysix forourbed the firebeingfourorfivefeetinfrontthoughitmadenooddshowroughthehearthwasbut itwasnotalwayseasy to find this in thosewoodsTheIndianfirstclearedapathtoitfromtheshorewithhisaxeandwethencarriedupallourbaggage pitched our tent andmade our bed in order to be ready for foulweather which then threatened us and for the night He gathered a largearmfuloffirtwigsbreakingthemoffwhichhesaidwerethebestforourbedpartly I thought because they were the largest and could be most rapidlycollectedIthadbeenrainingmoreorlessforfourorfivedaysandthewoodwasevendamper thanusualbuthegotdrybarkfor thefire fromtheundersideofadeadleaninghemlockwhichhesaidhecouldalwaysdoThisnoonhismindwasoccupiedwitha lawquestionandI referredhimtomycompanionwhowasa lawyer Itappeared thathehadbeenbuying landlately(Ithinkitwasahundredacres)buttherewasprobablyanincumbrancetoitsomebodyelseclaimingtohaveboughtsomegrassonitforthisyearHewished to know towhom the grass belonged andwas told that if the othermancouldprovethatheboughtthegrassbeforehePolisboughtthelandtheformer could take it whether the latter knew it or not To which he only

answered StrangeHewent over this several times fairly sat down to itwithhisbacktoatreeasifhemeanttoconfineustothistopichenceforthbutashemadenoheadwayonlyreachedthejumping-offplaceofhiswonderatwhitemensinstitutionsaftereachexplanationweletthesubjectdieHe said that he had fifty acres of grass potatoes etc somewhere aboveOldtownbesidessomeabouthishousethathehiredagooddealofhisworkhoeing etc andpreferredwhitemen to Indiansbecause theykeep steadyandknowhowAfterdinnerwereturnedsouthwardalongtheshoreinthecanoeonaccountof the difficulty of climbing over the rocks and fallen trees and began toascend the mountain along the edge of the precipice But a smart showercoming up just then the Indian crept under his canoe while we beingprotectedbyourrubbercoatsproceededtobotanizeSowesenthimbacktothecampforshelteragreeingthatheshouldcomethereforuswithhiscanoetoward night It had rained a little in the forenoon andwe trusted that thiswouldbetheclearing-upshowerwhichitprovedbutourfeetandlegswerethoroughlywet by the bushes The clouds breaking away a littlewe had aglorious wild view as we ascended of the broad lake with its fluctuatingsurface and numerous forest-clad islands extending beyond our sight bothnorthandsouthandtheboundlessforestundulatingawayfromitsshoresonevery side as densely packed as a rye-field and enveloping namelessmountainsinsuccessionbutabovealllookingwestwardoveralargeislandwasvisibleaverydistantpartofthelakethoughwedidnotthensuspectittobeMooseheadmdashatfirstamerebrokenwhitelineseenthroughthetopsoftheislandtreeslikehay-capsbutspreadingtoalakewhenwegothigherBeyondthis we saw what appears to be called Bald Mountain on the map sometwenty-fivemilesdistantnear thesourcesof thePenobscot Itwasaperfectlakeof thewoodsBut thiswasonlya transientgleam for the rainwasnotquiteoverLooking southward the heavens were completely overcast the mountainscapped with clouds and the lake generally wore a dark and stormyappearancebutfromitssurfacejustnorthofSugarIslandsixoreightmilesdistant therewas reflectedupward tous through themisty air abrightbluetinge from thedistantunseenskyofanother latitudebeyondTheyprobablyhad a clear sky then atGreenville the south endof the lakeStandingon amountain in themidst of a lakewherewouldyou look for the first signofapproachingfairweatherNotintotheheavensitseemsbutintothelakeAgainwemistookalittlerockyisletseenthroughthedriskwithsometallerbaretrunksorstumpsonitforthesteamerwithitssmoke-pipesbutasithadnotchangeditspositionafterhalfanhourwewereundeceivedSomuchdothe works ofman resemble the works of nature Amoosemightmistake a

steamer for a floating isle and not be scared till he heard its puffing or itswhistleIf I wished to see a mountain or other scenery under the most favorableauspicesIwouldgotoitinfoulweathersoastobetherewhenitclearedupwearetheninthemostsuitablemoodandnatureismostfreshandinspiringThereisnoserenitysofairasthatwhichisjustestablishedinatearfuleyeJackson in his Report on the Geology of Maine in 1838 says of thismountainHornstonewhichwillanswerforflintsoccursinvariouspartsoftheStatewheretrap-rockshaveacteduponsiliciousslateThelargestmassofthisstoneknownintheworldisMountKineouponMooseheadLakewhichappearstobeentirelycomposedofitandrisessevenhundredfeetabovethelakelevelThisvarietyofhornstoneIhaveseenineverypartofNewEnglandintheformofIndianarrowheadshatchetschiselsetcwhichwereprobablyobtained from thismountain by the aboriginal inhabitants of the country Ihavemyself foundhundredsof arrowheadsmadeof the samematerial It isgenerally slate-coloredwithwhite specksbecomingauniformwhitewhereexposed to the light and air and it breaks with a conchoidal fractureproducingaraggedcuttingedgeInoticedsomeconchoidalhollowsmorethanafootindiameterIpickedupasmallthinpiecewhichhadsosharpanedgethatIuseditasadullknifeandtoseewhatIcoulddofairlycutoffanaspenoneinchthickwithitbybendingitandmakingmanycutsthoughIcutmyfingersbadlywiththebackofitinthemeanwhileFromthesummitoftheprecipicewhichformsthesouthernandeasternsidesofthismountainpeninsulaandisitsmostremarkablefeaturebeingdescribedasfiveorsixhundredfeethighwelookedandprobablymighthavejumpeddownto thewateror to theseeminglydwarfish treeson thenarrowneckofland which connects it with the main It is a dangerous place to try thesteadiness of your nerves Hodge says that these cliffs descendperpendicularlyninetyfeetbelowthesurfaceofthewaterThe plants which chiefly attracted our attention on this mountain were themountaincinquefoil(Potentillatridentata)abundantandinbloomstillat theverybase by thewaterside though it is usually confined to the summits ofmountainsinourlatitudeverybeautifulharebellsoverhangingtheprecipicebear-berry the Canada blueberry (Vaccinium Canadense) similar to the VPennsylvanicum our earliest one but entire-leaved andwith a downy stemand leaf (I have not seen it inMassachusetts) Diervilla trifidaMicrostylisophioglossoides an orchidaceous plant new to uswild holly (NemopanthesCanadensis)thegreatround-leavedorchis(Platantheraorbiculata)notlonginbloomSpiranthescernuaat the topbunchberry reddeningasweascendedgreenatthebaseofthemountainredatthetopandthesmallfernWoodsiailvensisgrowingintuftsnowinfruitIhavealsoreceivedLiparisliliifoliaor

tway-bladefromthisspotHavingexploredthewondersofthemountainandtheweather being now entirely cleared upwe commenced the descentWemet the Indian puffing and panting about one third of the way up butthinkingthathemustbenearthetopandsayingthatittookhisbreathawayIthought that superstition had something to do with his fatigue Perhaps hebelievedthathewasclimbingoverthebackofatremendousmooseHesaidthathehadneverascendedKineoOnreachingthecanoewefoundthathehadcaughtalaketroutweighingaboutthreepoundsatthedepthoftwenty-fiveorthirtyfeetwhilewewereonthemountainWhenwegottothecampthecanoewastakenoutandturnedoverandaloglaidacrossittopreventitsbeingblownawayTheIndiancutsomelargelogsof dampand rottenhardwood to smoulder andkeep fire through the nightThe trout was fried for supper Our tent was of thin cotton cloth and quitesmall formingwith thegrounda triangularprismclosedat the rearendsixfeet long seven wide and four high so that we could barely sit up in themiddle It required two forked stakes a smooth ridge-pole and a dozen ormore pins to pitch it It kept off dew and wind and an ordinary rain andanswered our purposewell enoughWe reclinedwithin it till bedtime eachwithhisbaggageathisheadorelsesatabout thefirehavinghungourwetclothesonapolebeforethefireforthenightAswe sat there just before night lookingout through the duskywood theIndianheardanoisewhichhesaidwasmadebyasnakeHeimitateditatmyrequest making a low whistling notemdashpheetmdashpheetmdashtwo or three timesrepeatedsomewhatlikethepeepofthehylodesbutnotsoloudInanswertomyinquirieshesaidthathehadneverseenthemwhilemakingitbutgoingtothespothefinds thesnakeThishesaidonanotheroccasionwasasignofrainWhenIhadselectedthisplaceforourcamphehadremarkedthatthereweresnakes theremdashhesawthemBut theywontdoanyhurtIsaidOhnoheansweredjustasyousayitmakesnodifferencetomeHelayontherightsideofthetentbecauseashesaidhewaspartlydeafinone ear and he wanted to lie with his good ear up As we lay there heinquiredifIeverheardIndiansingIrepliedthatIhadnotoftenandaskedhimifhewouldnotfavoruswithasongHereadilyassentedandlyingonhis back with his blanket wrapped around him he commenced a slowsomewhatnasalyetmusicalchantinhisownlanguagewhichprobablywastaughthis tribe longagoby theCatholicmissionariesHe translated it toussentence by sentence afterwardwishing to see ifwe could remember it Itproved tobe avery simple religious exerciseorhymn theburdenofwhichwasthattherewasonlyoneGodwhoruledalltheworldThiswashammered(or sung)outvery thin so that somestanzaswell-nighmeantnothingatallmerelykeepinguptheideaHethensaidthathewouldsingusaLatinsong

butwedidnotdetectanyLatinonlyoneortwoGreekwordsinitmdashtherestmayhavebeenLatinwiththeIndianpronunciationHissingingcarriedmebacktotheperiodofthediscoveryofAmericatoSanSalvadorandtheIncaswhenEuropeansfirstencounteredthesimplefaithofthe IndianTherewas indeed abeautiful simplicityabout itnothingof thedarkandsavageonlythemildandinfantileThesentimentsofhumilityandreverencechieflywereexpressedItwasadenseanddampspruceandfirwoodinwhichwelayandexceptforourfireperfectlydarkandwhenIawokeinthenightIeitherheardanowlfromdeeper in theforestbehindusora loonfromadistanceover the lakeGettingupsome timeaftermidnight tocollect thescatteredbrands togetherwhilemycompanionsweresoundasleepIobservedpartlyinthefirewhichhad ceased to blaze a perfectly regular elliptical ring of light about fiveinchesinitsshortestdiametersixorseveninitslongerandfromoneeighthtoonequarterofaninchwideItwasfullyasbrightasthefirebutnotreddishorscarletlikeacoalbutawhiteandslumberinglightliketheglow-wormsIcouldtellitfromthefireonlybyitswhitenessIsawatoncethatitmustbephosphorescentwoodwhichIhadsooftenheardofbutneverchancedtoseePuttingmyfingeronitwithalittlehesitationIfoundthatitwasapieceofdeadmoose-wood(Acerstriatum)which theIndianhadcutoff inaslantingdirection the evening before Using my knife I discovered that the lightproceededfromthatportionofthesap-woodimmediatelyunderthebarkandthuspresentedaregularringattheendwhichindeedappearedraisedabovethe levelof thewoodandwhenIparedoff thebarkandcut into thesap itwasallaglowalongthelogIwassurprisedtofindthewoodquitehardandapparentlysoundthoughprobablydecayhadcommencedinthesapandIcutoutsomelittle triangularchipsandplacingtheminthehollowofmyhandcarriedthemintothecampwakedmycompanionandshowedthemtohimThey lit up the inside of my hand revealing the lines and wrinkles andappearingexactly likecoalsof fire raised toawhiteheatand I sawatoncehow probably the Indian jugglers had imposed on their people and ontravelerspretendingtoholdcoalsoffireintheirmouthsIalsonoticedthatpartofadecayedstumpwithinfourorfivefeetofthefirean inchwide and six inches long soft and shakingwood shonewith equalbrightnessIneglectedtoascertainwhetherourfirehadanythingtodowiththisbutthepreviousdaysrainandlong-continuedwetweatherundoubtedlyhadIwasexceedinglyinterestedbythisphenomenonandalreadyfeltpaidformyjourney It could hardly have thrilled me more if it had taken the form oflettersorofthehumanfaceIfIhadmetwiththisringoflightwhilegropingin this forest alone away from any fire I should have been still more

surprisedIlittlethoughtthattherewassuchalightshininginthedarknessofthewildernessformeThenextdaytheIndiantoldmetheirnameforthislightmdashartoosoqumdashandonmyinquiringconcerningthewill-o-the-wispandthelikephenomenahesaidthathisfolkssometimessawfirespassingalongatvariousheightsevenashighasthetreesandmakinganoiseIwaspreparedafterthistohearofthemoststartlingandunimaginedphenomenawitnessedbyhisfolkstheyareabroad at all hours and seasons in scenes so unfrequented by white menNaturemusthavemadeathousandrevelationstothemwhicharestillsecretstousI did not regret my not having seen this before since I now saw it undercircumstancessofavorableIwasinjusttheframeofmindtoseesomethingwonderful and this was a phenomenon adequate to my circumstances andexpectation and it putme on the alert to seemore like it I exulted like apagansuckledinacreedthathadneverbeenwornatallbutwasbran-newandadequatetotheoccasionIletscienceslideandrejoicedinthatlightasifithadbeenafellowcreatureIsawthatitwasexcellentandwasverygladtoknowthatitwassocheapAscientificexplanationasitiscalledwouldhavebeenaltogetheroutofplace thereThat is forpaledaylightSciencewith itsretortswouldhaveputmetosleepitwastheopportunitytobeignorantthatIimprovedItsuggestedtomethat therewassomethingtobeseenifonehadeyes Itmade a believer ofmemore than before I believed that thewoodswerenottenantlessbutchoke-fullofhonestspiritsasgoodasmyselfanydaymdashnotanemptychamber inwhichchemistrywas left toworkalonebutaninhabited housemdashand for a few moments I enjoyed fellowship with themYourso-calledwisemangoestryingtopersuadehimselfthatthereisnoentitytherebuthimselfandhistrapsbutitisagreatdealeasiertobelievethetruthItsuggestedtoothatthesameexperiencealwaysgivesbirthtothesamesortofbeliefor religionOne revelationhasbeenmade to the Indiananother tothewhitemanIhavemuchtolearnoftheIndiannothingofthemissionaryIamnotsurebutallthatwouldtemptmetoteachtheIndianmyreligionwouldbehispromisetoteachmehisLongenoughIhadheardofirrelevantthingsnowat length Iwasglad tomakeacquaintancewith the light thatdwells inrottenwoodWhereisallyourknowledgegonetoItevaporatescompletelyforithasnodepthIkeptthoselittlechipsandwetthemagainthenextnightbuttheyemittednolightSATURDAYJuly25At breakfast this Saturday morning the Indian evidently curious to knowwhatwouldbeexpectedofhimthenextdaywhetherweshouldgoalongornot asked me how I spent the Sunday when at home I told him that I

commonlysatinmychamberreadingetcintheforenoonandwenttowalkin theafternoonAtwhichheshookhisheadandsaidEr that isverbadHowdoyouspenditIaskedHesaidthathedidnoworkthathewenttochurch at Oldtown when he was at home in short he did as he had beentaughtbythewhitesThisledtoadiscussioninwhichIfoundmyselfintheminorityHestatedthathewasaProtestantandaskedmeifIwasIdidnotatfirstknowwhattosaybutIthoughtthatIcouldanswerwithtruththatIwasWhenwewerewashingthedishesinthelakemanyfishesapparentlychivincamecloseuptoustogettheparticlesofgreaseTheweatherseemedtobemoresettledthismorningandwesetoutearlyinorder to finish our voyage up the lake before the wind arose Soon afterstarting the Indian directed our attention to the Northeast Carry which wecouldplainlyseeaboutthirteenmilesdistantinthatdirectionasmeasuredonthemapthoughitiscalledmuchfartherThiscarryisarudewoodenrailroadrunningnorthandsouthabout twomilesperfectlystraight fromthe lake tothePenobscotthroughalowtractwithaclearingthreeorfourrodswidebutlowasitisitpassesovertheheightoflandthereThisopeningappearedasaclear bright or light point in the horizon resting on the edge of the lakewhosebreadthahaircouldhavecoveredataconsiderabledistancefromtheeye and of no appreciable height We should not have suspected it to bevisibleiftheIndianhadnotdrawnourattentiontoitItwasaremarkablekindoflighttosteerformdashdaylightseenthroughavistaintheforestmdashbutvisibleasfarasanordinarybeaconatnightWe crossed a deep and wide bay which makes eastward north of KineoleavinganislandonourleftandkeepinguptheeasternsideofthelakeThiswayorthatledtosomeTomheganorSocatarianstreamupwhichtheIndianhadhuntedandwhitherIlongedtogoThelastnamehoweverhadabogussoundtoomuchlikesectarianformeasifamissionaryhadtamperedwithitbutIknewthattheIndianswereveryliberalIthinkIshouldhaveinclinedtotheTomheganfirstWethencrossedanotherbroadbaywhichaswecouldnolongerobservetheshoreparticularlyaffordedampletimeforconversationTheIndiansaidthathe had got his money by hunting mostly high up theWest Branch of thePenobscot and toward theheadof theSt Johnhehadhunted there fromaboyandknewallaboutthatregionHisgamehadbeenbeaverotterblackcat(orfisher)sablemooseetcLoup-cervier(orCanadalynx)wereplentyyetinburntgroundsForfoodinthewoodsheusespartridgesducksdriedmoose-meathedgehogetcLoonstooweregoodonlybileemgoodHetoldusat some lengthhowhehadsuffered fromstarvationwhenamere ladbeingovertakenbywinterwhenhuntingwithtwogrownIndiansinthenorthernpartofMaineandobligedtoleavetheircanoeonaccountofice

Pointing into thebayhe said that itwas theway tovarious lakeswhichheknewOnlysolemnbear-hauntedmountainswith theirgreatwoodedslopeswerevisiblewhereasmanisnotwesupposesomeotherpower tobeMyimaginationpersonifiedtheslopesthemselvesasifbytheirverylengththeywouldwaylayyouandcompelyoutocampagainonthembeforenightSomeinvisiblegluttonwouldseemtodropfromthetreesandgnawattheheartofthesolitaryhunterwhothreadedthosewoodsandyetIwastemptedtowalkthereTheIndiansaidthathehadbeenalongthereseveraltimesI askedhimhowheguidedhimself in thewoods Oh said he I can tellgoodmanywaysWhen I pressed him further he answered Sometimes Ilookum side-hill and he glanced toward a high hill or mountain on theeasternshoregreatdifferencebetweenthenorthandsouthseewherethesunhas shonemost So treesmdashthe large limbs bend toward south Sometimes Ilookum locks (rocks) I asked what he saw on the rocks but he did notdescribeanythinginparticularansweringvaguelyinamysteriousordrawlingtoneBarelocksonlakeshoremdashgreatdifferencebetweennorthsoutheastwest sidemdashcan tell what the sun has shone on Suppose said I that Ishouldtakeyouinadarknightrightuphereintothemiddleofthewoodsahundredmilessetyoudownandturnyouroundquicklytwentytimescouldyou steer straight toOldtown Oh yer said he have done prettymuchsame thing I will tell you Some years ago I met an old white hunter atMillinocketverygoodhunterHesaidhecouldgoanywhereinthewoodsHewanted to hunt with me that day so we start We chase a moose all theforenoonroundandroundtillmiddleofafternoonwhenwekillhimThenIsaid tohim Nowyougostraight tocampDontgoroundandroundwherewevebeenbutgostraightHesaidIcantdothatIdontknowwhereIamWhereyouthinkcampIaskedHepointedsoThenI laughathimI taketheleadandgorightofftheotherwaycrossourtracksmanytimesstraightcamp How do you do that asked I Oh I cant tell you he repliedGreatdifferencebetweenmeandwhitemanIt appeared as if the sources of informationwere so various that he did notgiveadistinctconsciousattentiontoanyoneandsocouldnotreadilyrefertoanywhenquestionedabout itbuthefoundhiswayverymuchasananimaldoesPerhapswhat iscommonlycalled instinct in theanimal in thiscase ismerelyasharpenedandeducatedsenseOftenwhenanIndiansaysIdontknowinregardtotherouteheistotakehedoesnotmeanwhatawhitemanwouldbythosewordsforhisIndianinstinctmaytellhimstillasmuchasthemost confidentwhitemanknowsHedoesnot carry things inhis head norremember the route exactly like a white man but relies on himself at themomentNothavingexperiencedtheneedoftheothersortofknowledgealllabeledandarrangedhehasnotacquiredit

ThewhitehunterwithwhomItalkedinthestageknewsomeoftheresourcesof the Indian He said that he steered by the wind or by the limbs of thehemlocks which were largest on the south side also sometimes when heknew that therewas a lake near by firing his gun and listening to hear thedirectionanddistanceoftheechofromoveritThecoursewetookoverthislakeandothersafterwardwasrarelydirectbutasuccessionofcurvesfrompoint topointdigressingconsiderablyintoeachof thebaysand thiswasnotmerelyonaccountof thewind for the Indianlookingtowardthemiddleof the lakesaid itwashard togothereeasier tokeepneartheshorebecausehethusgotoveritbysuccessivereachesandsawbytheshorehowhegotalongThe following will suffice for a common experience in crossing lakes in acanoeAstheforenoonadvancedthewindincreasedThelastbaywhichwecrossed before reaching the desolate pier at theNortheastCarrywas twoorthreemilesover and thewindwas southwesterlyAftergoinga thirdof theway thewaveshadincreasedsoasoccasionally towashinto thecanoeandwe saw that it was worse and worse ahead At first we might have turnedabout but were not willing to It would have been of no use to follow thecourseoftheshorefornotonlythedistancewouldhavebeenmuchgreaterbutthewavesranstillhigherthereonaccountofthegreatersweepthewindhad At any rate it would have been dangerous now to alter our coursebecausethewaveswouldhavestruckusatanadvantageItwillnotdotomeetthematrightanglesforthentheywillwashinbothsidesbutyoumusttakethemquarteringSotheIndianstoodupinthecanoeandexertedallhisskillandstrengthforamileortwowhileIpaddledrightalonginordertogivehimmore steerage-wayFormore than amile hedidnot allowa singlewave tostrikethecanoeasitwouldbutturneditquicklyfromthissidetothatsothatitwouldalwaysbeonornearthecrestofawavewhenitbrokewhereallitsforcewasspentandwemerelysettleddownwithitAtlengthI jumpedoutontotheendofthepieragainstwhichthewavesweredashingviolently inorder to lighten the canoe and catch it at the landingwhichwas notmuchsheltered but just as I jumped we took in two or three gallons of water Iremarked to the Indian Youmanaged thatwell towhichhe replied VerfewmendothatGreatmanywaveswhenI lookoutforoneanothercomequickWhile the Indian went to get cedar bark etc to carry his canoe with wecooked the dinner on the shore at this end of the carry in the midst of asprinklingrainHe prepared his canoe for carrying in thiswiseHe took a cedar shingle orsplinteighteenincheslongandfourorfivewideroundedatoneendthatthecornersmightnotbeinthewayandtieditwithcedarbarkbytwoholesmade

midway near the edge on each side to the middle cross-bar of the canoeWhen the canoe was lifted upon his head bottom up this shingle with itsrounded end uppermost distributed theweight over his shoulders and headwhileabandofcedarbark tied to thecross-baroneachsideof theshinglepassedroundhisbreastandanotherlongeroneoutsideofthelastroundhisforeheadalsoahandoneachside-rail served tosteer thecanoeandkeep itfromrockingHethuscarrieditwithhisshouldersheadbreastforeheadandbothhandsasiftheupperpartofhisbodywereallonehandtoclaspandholdit If you know of a better way I should like to hear of it A cedar treefurnishedallthegearinthiscaseasithadthewoodworkofthecanoeOneofthe paddles rested on the cross-bars in the bows I took the canoe uponmyheadandfoundthatIcouldcarryitwitheasethoughthestrapswerenotfittedto my shoulders but I let him carry it not caring to establish a differentprecedentthoughhesaidthatifIwouldcarrythecanoehewouldtakealltherestofthebaggageexceptmycompanionsThisshingleremainedtiedtothecross-bar throughout the voyagewas always ready for the carries and alsoservedtoprotectthebackofonepassengerWewereobliged togoover this carry twiceour loadwas sogreatBut thecarrieswereanagreeablevarietyandweimprovedtheopportunitytogathertherareplantswhichwehadseenwhenwereturnedemptyhandedWe reached the Penobscot about four oclock and found there some StFrancisIndiansencampedonthebankinthesameplacewhereIcampedwithfourIndiansfouryearsbeforeTheyweremakingacanoeandasthendryingmoose-meatThemeatlookedverysuitabletomakeablackbrothatleastOurIndiansaiditwasnotgoodTheircampwascoveredwithsprucebarkTheyhadgotayoungmoosetakenintheriverafortnightbeforeconfinedinasortof cage of logs piled up cob-fashion seven or eight feet high It was quitetameabout four feethigh andcoveredwithmoose-fliesTherewasa largequantity of cornel (C stolonifera) red maple and also willow and aspenboughsstuckthroughbetweenthelogsonallsidesbuttendsoutandontheirleavesitwasbrowsingItlookedatfirstasifitwereinabowerratherthanapenOurIndiansaidthatheusedblacksprucerootstosewcanoeswithobtainingit from high lands or mountains The St Francis Indian thought thatwhitespruce rootsmightbebestBut the formersaid Nogoodbreakcant splitemalsothattheywerehardtogetdeepingroundbuttheblackwerenearthesurfaceonhigherlandaswellas tougherHesaidthat thewhitesprucewas subekoondark black skusk I told him I thought that I could make acanoebutheexpressedgreatdoubtofitatanyratehethoughtthatmyworkwouldnotbeneatthefirsttimeAnIndianatGreenvillehadtoldmethatthewinterbarkthatisbarktakenoffbeforethesapflowsinMaywasharderand

muchbetterthansummerbarkHaving reloaded we paddled down the Penobscot which as the Indianremarked and even I detected remembering how it looked before wasuncommonly full We soon after saw a splendid yellow lily (LiliumCanadense)bytheshorewhichIpluckedItwassixfeethighandhadtwelveflowers in twowhorls formingapyramid suchas Ihave seen inConcordWeafterwardsawmanymore thus tallalongthisstreamandalsostillmorenumerous on the East Branch and on the latter one which I thoughtapproached yet nearer to the Lilium superbum The Indian asked what wecalleditandsaidthattheloots(roots)weregoodforsoupthatistocookwithmeattothickenittakingtheplaceofflourTheygettheminthefallIdugsomeandfoundamassofbulbsprettydeep in theearth twoinches indiameterlookingandeventastingsomewhatlikerawgreencornontheearWhenwehadgoneaboutthreemilesdownthePenobscotwesawthroughthetree-tops a thunder-shower coming up in the west and we looked out acamping-place in good season about five oclock on thewest side not farbelow themouthofwhat JoeAitteon in 53calledLobsterStreamcomingfromLobsterPondOurpresentIndianhoweverdidnotadmitthisnamenoreven that of Matahumkeag which is on the map but called the lakeBeskabekukI will describe once for all the routine of camping at this season WegenerallytoldtheIndianthatwewouldstopatthefirstsuitableplacesothathemightbeonthelookoutforitHavingobservedaclearhardandflatbeachtolandonfreefrommudandfromstoneswhichwouldinjurethecanoeonewouldrunupthebanktoseeiftherewereopenandlevelspaceenoughforthecampbetweenthetreesorifitcouldbeeasilyclearedpreferringatthesametimeacoolplaceonaccountofinsectsSometimeswepaddledamileormorebefore findingone toourminds forwhere the shorewas suitable thebankwouldoftenbetoosteeporelsetoolowandgrassyandthereforemosquitoeyWe then took out the baggage and drewup the canoe sometimes turning itover on shore for safetyThe Indian cut a path to the spotwehad selectedwhichwasusuallywithintwoorthreerodsofthewaterandwecarriedupourbaggageOneperhapstakescanoebirchbarkalwaysathandanddeaddrywoodorbarkandkindlesafirefiveorsixfeetinfrontofwhereweintendtolieItmattersnotcommonlyonwhichsidethisisbecausethereislittleornowindinsodenseawoodatthatseasonandthenhegetsakettleofwaterfromthe river and takes out the pork bread coffee etc from their severalpackagesAnothermeanwhilehavingtheaxecutsdownthenearestdeadrockmapleorother dry hardwood collecting several large logs to last through the nightalso agreen stakewith anotchor fork to itwhich is slantedover the fire

perhapsrestingonarockorforkedstaketohangthekettleonandtwoforkedstakesandapoleforthetentThe third man pitches the tent cuts a dozen or more pins with his knifeusuallyofmoose-woodthecommonunderwoodtofastenitdownwithandthen collects an armful or two of fir twigs arbor-vitaelig spruce or hemlockwhicheverisathandandmakesthebedbeginningateitherendandlayingthe twigswrong side up in regular rows covering the stub ends of the lastrowfirsthoweverfillingthehollowsifthereareanywithcoarsermaterialWrangel says that his guides in Siberia first strewed a quantity of drybrushwoodonthegroundandthencedartwigsonthatCommonlybythetimethebedismadeorwithinfifteenortwentyminutesthewaterboilstheporkisfriedandsupperisreadyWeeatthissittingontheground or a stump if there is any around a large piece of birch bark for atableeachholdingadipperinonehandandapieceofship-breadorfriedporkintheotherfrequentlymakingapasswithhishandorthrustinghisheadintothesmoketoavoidthemosquitoesNext pipes are lit by thosewho smoke andveils aredonnedby thosewhohave themandwehastilyexamineanddryourplants anointour facesandhandsandgotobedmdashandmdashthemosquitoesThoughyouhavenothingtodobutseethecountrytheresrarelyanytimetospare hardly enough to examine a plant before the night or drowsiness isuponyouSuchwastheordinaryexperiencebutthiseveningwehadcampedearlieronaccountoftherainandhadmoretimeWefound thatourcampto-nightwasonanoldandnowmore thanusuallyindistinct supply road running along the riverWhat is called a road thereshowsnorutsortraceofwheelsfortheyarenotusednorindeedofrunnerssincetheyareusedonlyinthewinterwhenthesnowisseveralfeetdeepItisonlyanindistinctvistathroughthewoodwhichittakesanexperiencedeyetodetectWehadnosoonerpitchedour tent than the thunder-showerburstonusandwehastilycreptunderitdrawingourbagsafteruscurioustoseehowmuchofashelterourthincottonroofwasgoingtobeinthisexcursionThoughtheviolenceoftherainforcedafineshowerthroughtheclothbeforeitwasfairlywettedandshrunkwithwhichwewerewellbedewedwemanaged tokeepprettydryonlyaboxofmatcheshavingbeenleftoutandspoiledandbeforewe were aware of it the shower was over and only the dripping treesimprisonedusWishingtoseewhatfishestherewereintherivertherewecastourlinesoverthewetbusheson the shorebut theywere repeatedly sweptdown the swift

streaminvainSoleavingtheIndianwetookthecanoejustbeforedarkanddroppeddowntheriverafewrodstofishatthemouthofasluggishbrookonthe opposite sideWe pushed up this a rod or two where perhaps only acanoe had been before But though there were a few small fishes mostlychivin there we were soon driven off by the mosquitoes While there weheardtheIndianfirehisguntwiceinsuchrapidsuccessionthatwethoughtitmustbedouble-barreledthoughweobservedafterwardthatitwassingleHisobjectwastocleanoutanddryitaftertherainandhethenloadeditwithballbeing now on ground where he expected to meet with large game Thissuddenloudcrashingnoiseinthestillaislesoftheforestaffectedmelikeaninsulttonatureorillmannersatanyrateasifyouweretofireaguninahallor temple It was not heard far however except along the river the soundbeingrapidlyhusheduporabsorbedbythedamptreesandmossygroundTheIndianmadealittlesmotheredfireofdampleavesclosetothebackofthecamp that the smokemightdrive throughandkeepout themosquitoesbutjustbeforewefellasleepthissuddenlyblazedupandcamenearsettingfiretothetentWewereconsiderablymolestedbymosquitoesatthiscampSUNDAYJuly26The note of the white-throated sparrow a very inspiriting but almost wirysoundwas the first heard in themorning andwith this all thewoods rangThiswastheprevailingbirdinthenorthernpartofMaineTheforestgenerallywasallalivewiththematthisseasonandtheywereproportionallynumerousand musical about Bangor They evidently breed in that State Thoughcommonly unseen their simple ah te-te-te te-te-te te-te-te so sharp andpiercingwasasdistincttotheearasthepassageofasparkoffireshotintothedarkestoftheforestwouldbetotheeyeIthoughtthattheycommonlyuttereditas theyflewIhear thisnotefora fewdaysonly in thespringas theygothroughConcord and in the fall see them again going southward but thentheyaremuteWewere commonly arousedby their lively strainvery earlyWhataglorioustimetheymusthaveinthatwildernessfarfrommankindandelectiondayI told the Indian that we would go to church to Chesuncook this (Sunday)morning some fifteenmiles Itwas settledweather at lastA few swallowsflittedoverthewaterweheardMarylandyellow-throatsalongtheshorethephebenotesofthechickadeeandIbelieveredstartsandmoose-fliesoflargesizepursuedusinmidstreamTheIndianthoughtthatweshouldliebyonSundaySaidheWecomeherelookum things look all round but come Sunday lock up all that and thenMondaylookagainHespokeofanIndianofhisacquaintancewhohadbeenwithsomeministerstoKtaadnandhadtoldhimhowtheyconductedThishedescribedinalowandsolemnvoiceTheymakealongprayereverymorning

andnightandateverymealComeSundaysaidhetheystopemnogoatall that daymdashkeep stillmdashpreach all daymdashfirst one then another just likechurch Oh ver goodmen One day said he going along a river theycametothebodyofamaninthewaterdrownedgoodwhileallreadyfalltopiecesTheygorightashoremdashstoptheregonofartherthatdaymdashtheyhavemeetingtherepreachandprayjust likeSundayThentheygetpolesandliftup the body and they go back and carry the bodywith themOh they vergoodmenI judged from this account that their every campwas a camp-meeting andtheyhadmistakentheirroutemdashtheyshouldhavegonetoEasthamthat theywantedanopportunitytopreachsomewheremorethantoseeKtaadnIreadofanothersimilarpartythatseemtohavespenttheirtimetheresingingthesongsofZionIwasgladthatIdidnotgotothatmountainwithsuchslowcoachesHowever theIndianaddedplyingthepaddleall thewhile that ifwewouldgoalonghemustgowithusheourmanandhesupposethatifhenotakumpay forwhat he do Sunday then thers no harm but if he takum pay thenwrongItoldhimthathewasstricterthanwhitemenNeverthelessInoticedthathedidnotforgettoreckonintheSundaysatlastHeappearedtobeaveryreligiousmanandsaidhisprayersinaloudvoiceinIndian kneeling before the camp morning and eveningmdashsometimesscramblingupagaininhastewhenhehadforgottenthisandsayingthemwithgreatrapidityInthecourseofthedayheremarkednotveryoriginallyPoormanrememberumGodmorethanrichWe soon passed the island where I had camped four years before and Irecognized thevery spotThedeadwater amile or twobelow it the Indiancalled Beskabekukskishtuk from the lake Beskabekuk which empties inaboveThisdeadwaterhesaidwasagreatplaceformoosealwaysWesawthegrassbentwhereamoosecameout thenightbeforeandtheIndiansaidthathecouldsmelloneas farashecouldseehimbutheadded that ifheshouldseefiveorsixto-dayclosebycanoehenoshootemAccordinglyashewastheonlyoneofthepartywhohadagunorhadcomea-hunting themooseweresafeJust below this a cat owl flew heavily over the stream and he asking if Iknewwhatitwasimitatedverywellthecommonhoohoohoohoorerhooof our woodsmaking a hard guttural sound Ugh ugh ughmdashugh ughWhen we passed the Moose-horn he said that it had no name What JoeAitteonhad calledRagmuff he calledPaytaytequick and said that itmeantBurntGroundStreamWe stopped therewhere I had stopped before and Ibathed in this tributary Itwas shallowbut cold apparently too cold for theIndian who stood looking on As we were pushing away again a white-headedeagle sailedoverourheadsA reachsomemilesabovePineStream

wheretherewereseveralislandstheIndiansaidwasNonglangyisDeadwaterPine Stream he called Black River and said that its Indian name wasKarsaootukHecouldgotoCaribouLakethatwayWe carried a part of the baggage about Pine StreamFallswhile the IndianwentdowninthecanoeABangormerchanthadtoldusthattwomeninhisemployweredrowned some timeagowhilepassing these falls in abatteauandathirdclungtoarockallnightandwastakenoffinthemorningTherewere magnificent great purple fringed orchises on this carry and theneighboring shores I measured the largest canoe birch which I saw in thisjourneyneartheendofthecarryItwas14frac12feetincircumferenceattwofeetfrom thegroundbut at five feetdivided into threepartsThecanoebirchesthereaboutswerecommonlymarkedbyconspicuousdarkspiralridgeswithagroove between so that I thought at first that they had been struck bylightningbutas theIndiansaid itwasevidentlycausedby thegrainof thetreeHecutasmallwoodyknobasbigasafilbert fromthe trunkofafirapparently an old balsamvesicle filledwithwoodwhich he saidwas goodmedicineAfterwehadembarkedandgonehalfamilemycompanionrememberedthathe had left his knife andwe paddled back to get it against the strong andswift currentThis taught us the difference between going up and down thestream for while we were working our way back a quarter of a mile weshouldhavegonedownamileandahalfatleastSowelandedandwhileheand the Indianwere gone back for it Iwatched themotions of the foam akindofwhitewater-fowlneartheshorefortyorfiftyrodsbelowItalternatelyappeared and disappeared behind the rock being carried round by an eddyEventhissemblanceoflifewasinterestingonthatlonelyriverImmediatelybelowthesefallswastheChesuncookDeadwatercausedbytheflowingbackofthelakeAswepaddledslowlyoverthistheIndiantoldusastory of his hunting thereabouts and something more interesting abouthimselfItappearedthathehadrepresentedhistribeatAugustaandalsoonceatWashingtonwherehehadmetsomeWesternchiefsHehadbeenconsultedat Augusta and gave advice which he said was followed respecting theeastern boundary ofMaine as determined by highlands and streams at thetimeof thedifficultieson thatsideHewasemployedwith thesurveyorsonthe lineAlsohehadcalledonDanielWebster inBoston at the timeofhisBunkerHillorationI was surprised to hear him say that he liked to go to Boston New YorkPhiladelphiaetcetcthathewouldliketolivethereButthenasifrelentingalittlewhenhethoughtwhatapoorfigurehewouldmakethereheaddedIsuppose I live inNewYork I be poorest hunter I expectHe understoodverywellbothhissuperiorityandhisinferioritytothewhitesHecriticisedthe

people of the United States as compared with other nations but the onlydistinctideawithwhichhelaboredwasthattheywereverystrongbutlikesomeindividualstoofastHemusthavethecreditofsayingthisjustbeforethe general breaking down of railroads and banks He had a great idea ofeducation and would occasionally break out into such expressions as thisKademymdasha-cad-e-mymdashgood thingmdashI suppose they usum Fifth ReaderthereYoubeencollegeFromthisdeadwatertheoutlinesofthemountainsaboutKtaadnwerevisibleThe top ofKtaadnwas concealed by a cloud but the SouneunkMountainswerenearerandquitevisibleWesteeredacrossthenorthwestendofthelakefromwhichwe lookeddownsouth-southeast thewhole length toJoeMerryMountain seenover its extremity It is an agreeable change to cross a lakeafteryouhavebeenshutupinthewoodsnotonlyonaccountofthegreaterexpanseofwaterbutalsoofskyItisoneofthesurpriseswhichNaturehasinstore for the traveler in the forestTo lookdown in thiscaseovereighteenmilesofwaterwasliberatingandcivilizingevenNodoubttheshortdistancetowhichyoucanseeinthewoodsandthegeneraltwilightwouldatlengthreact on the inhabitants andmake them salvages The lakes also reveal themountains and give ample scope and range to our thought The very gullswhich we saw sitting on the rocks like white specks or circling aboutremindedmeof custom-houseofficersAlready therewerehalf a dozen loghutsabout thisendof the lake thoughso far froma road Iperceive that inthesewoodstheearliestsettlementsareforvariousreasonsclusteringaboutthe lakes but partly I think for the sake of the neighborhood as the oldestclearingsTheyareforestschoolsalreadyestablishedmdashgreatcentresoflightWater is a pioneer which the settler follows taking advantage of itsimprovementsThusfaronlyIhadbeenbeforeAboutnoonweturnednorthwardupabroadkindofestuaryandatitsnortheastcornerfoundtheCaucomgomocRiverandafter going about a mile from the lake reached the Umbazookskus whichcomesinontherightatapointwheretheformerrivercomingfromthewestturns short to the south Our course was up the Umbazookskus but as theIndianknewofagoodcamping-place that isacoolplacewheretherewerefew mosquitoes about half a mile farther up the Caucomgomoc we wentthither The latter river judging from the map is the longer and principalstream and therefore itsnamemustprevail below the junctionSoquicklywe changed the civilizing sky of Chesuncook for the dark wood of theCaucomgomocOnreaching theIndianscamping-groundon thesouthsidewherethebankwasaboutadozenfeethighIreadonthetrunkofafirtreeblazedbyanaxeaninscriptionincharcoalwhichhadbeenleftbyhimItwassurmountedbyadrawingofabearpaddlingacanoewhichhesaidwas thesignwhich had been used by his family alwaysThe drawing though rude

couldnotbemistaken foranythingbutabearandhedoubtedmyability tocopyitTheinscriptionranthusverbatimetliteratimIinterlinetheEnglishofhisIndianashegaveittomeJuly261853

niasosebWealoneJosephPoliselioiPolisstartsiaoltaforOldtownonkenirightawayquambiJuly151855niasosebHeaddednowbelowmdash1857July26JoPolis

This was one of his homes I saw where he had sometimes stretched hismoose-hidesontheoppositeorsunnynorthsideoftheriverwheretherewasanarrowmeadowAfter we had selected a place for our camp and kindled our fire almostexactly on the site of the Indians last camphere he looking up observedThattreedangerItwasadeadpartmorethanafootindiameterofalargecanoebirchwhichbranchedat thegroundThisbranch rising thirty feetormoreslanteddirectlyover thespotwhichwehadchosenforourbedI toldhimtotryitwithhisaxebuthecouldnotshakeitperceptiblyandthereforeseemedinclinedtodisregarditandmycompanionexpressedhiswillingnesstoruntheriskButitseemedtomethatweshouldbefoolstolieunderitforthough the lower part was firm the top for aught we knew might be justreadytofallandweshouldatanyratebeveryuneasyifthewindaroseinthe

nightItisacommonaccidentformencampinginthewoodstobekilledbyafallingtreeSothecampwasmovedtotheothersideofthefireItwasasusualadampandshaggyforest thatCaucomgomoconeand themost you knew about it was that on this side it stretched toward thesettlements and on that to still more unfrequented regions You carried somuchtopographyinyourmindalwaysmdashandsometimesitseemedtomakeaconsiderable difference whether you sat or lay nearer the settlements orfartheroffthanyourcompanionsmdashweretherearorfrontiermanofthecampButthereisreallythesamedifferencebetweenourpositionswhereverwemaybecampedandsomearenearerthefrontiersonfeather-bedsinthetownsthanothersonfirtwigsinthebackwoodsThe Indian said that the Umbazookskus being a dead stream with broadmeadowswasagoodplaceformooseandhefrequentlycamea-huntingherebeingoutalonethreeweeksormorefromOldtownHesometimesalsowenta-hunting to the Seboois Lakes taking the stage with his gun andammunition axe and blankets hard-bread and pork perhaps for a hundredmilesof thewayand jumpedoffat thewildestplaceon the roadwherehewasatonceathomeandevery rodwasa tavern-site forhimThen after ashort journeythroughthewoodshewouldbuildaspruce-barkcanoeinoneday putting but few ribs into it that itmight be light and after doing hishuntingwithitonthelakeswouldreturnwithhisfursthesamewayhehadcomeThusyouhaveanIndianavailinghimselfcunninglyoftheadvantagesof civilizationwithout losing anyof hiswoodcraft but provinghimself themoresuccessfulhunterforitThismanwasverycleverandquicktolearnanythinginhislineOurtentwasofakindnewtohimbutwhenhehadonceseenitpitcheditwassurprisinghowquicklyhewouldfindandpreparethepoleandforkedstakestopitchitwithcuttingandplacing themright the first time thoughIamsure that themajorityofwhitemenwouldhaveblunderedseveraltimesThisrivercamefromCaucomgomocLakeabouttenmilesfartherupThoughitwassluggishhere therewerefallsnotfaraboveusandwesawthefoamfromthemgobyfromtimetotimeTheIndiansaidthatCaucomgomocmeantBig-GullLake(ieherringgullIsuppose)gomocmeaninglakeHencethiswasCaucomgomoctookor the river from that lakeThiswas thePenobscotCaucomgomoctooktherewasanotherStJohnonenotfarnorthHefindstheeggsof this gull sometimes twenty together as big as hens eggs on rockyledgesonthewestsideofMillinocketRiverforinstanceandeatsthemNow I thought I would observe how he spent his SundayWhile I andmycompanionwerelookingaboutatthetreesandriverhewenttosleepIndeedheimprovedeveryopportunitytogetanapwhatevertheday

RamblingaboutthewoodsatthiscampInoticedthattheyconsistedchieflyoffirsblackspruceandsomewhiteredmaplecanoebirchandalongtheriver the hoary alder (Alnus incana) I name them in the order of theirabundanceTheViburnumnudumwasacommonshrubandofsmallerplantstherewerethedwarfcornelgreatround-leavedorchisabundantandinbloom(agreenish-whiteflowergrowingin littlecommunities)UvulariagrandiflorawhosestemtastedlikeacucumberPyrolasecundaapparentlythecommonestpyrola in those woods now out of bloomPyrola elliptica and Chiogeneshispidula TheClintonia borealis with ripe berrieswas very abundant andperfectlyathome there Its leavesdisposedcommonly in trianglesabout itsstemwere justashandsomelyformedandgreenand itsberriesasblueandglossyasifitgrewbysomebotanistsfavoritepathIcould trace theoutlinesof largebirches thathadfallen longagocollapsedand rotted and turned to soil by faint yellowish-green lines of feather-likemoss eighteen incheswide and twenty or thirty feet long crossed by othersimilarlinesIheardanight-warblerwoodthrushkingfishertweezer-birdorparti-coloredwarbler and a nighthawk I also heard and saw red squirrels and heard abullfrogTheIndiansaidthatheheardasnakeWild as it was it was hard for me to get rid of the associations of thesettlementsAnysteadyandmonotonoussoundtowhichIdidnotdistinctlyattend passed for a sound of human industry Thewaterfallswhich I heardwerenotwithouttheirdamsandmillstomyimaginationandseveraltimesIfound that I had been regarding the steady rushing sound of thewind fromover the woods beyond the rivers as that of a train of carsmdashthe cars atQuebecOurmindsanywherewhenlefttothemselvesarealwaysthusbusilydrawingconclusionsfromfalsepremisesIaskedtheIndiantomakeusasugar-bowlofbirchbarkwhichhedidusingthegreatknifewhichdangledinasheathfromhisbeltbutthebarkbrokeatthecornerswhenhebentitupandhesaiditwasnotgoodthattherewasagreatdifferenceinthisrespectbetweenthebarkofonecanoebirchandthatofanother i e one cracked more easily than another I used some thin anddelicatesheetsofthisbarkwhichhesplitandcutinmyflower-bookthinkingitwouldbegoodtoseparatethedriedspecimensfromthegreenMy companionwishing to distinguish between the black andwhite spruceaskedPolis to showhima twigof the latterwhichhedidatonce togetherwiththeblackindeedhecoulddistinguishthemaboutasfarashecouldseethembutasthetwotwigsappearedverymuchalikemycompanionaskedtheIndian to point out the difference whereupon the latter taking the twigsinstantlyremarkedashepassedhishandoverthemsuccessivelyinastrokingmanner that the white was rough (i e the needles stood up nearly

perpendicular)buttheblacksmooth(ieasifbentorcombeddown)Thiswasanobviousdifferenceboth to sightand touchHowever if I rememberrightly thiswould not serve to distinguish thewhite spruce from the light-coloredvarietyoftheblackI asked him to letme see him get some black spruce root andmake somethreadWhereuponwithoutlookingupatthetreesoverheadhebegantogrubinthegroundinstantlydistinguishingtheblacksprucerootsandcuttingoffaslenderonethreeorfourfeetlongandasbigasapipe-stemhesplittheendwith his knife and taking a half between the thumb and forefinger of eachhandrapidlyseparateditswholelengthintotwoequalsemicylindricalhalvesthen giving me another root he said You try But in my hands itimmediately ran off one side and I got only a very short piece In shortthoughitlookedveryeasyIfoundthattherewasagreatartinsplittingtheserootsThesplitisskillfullyhumoredbybendingshortwiththishandorthatandsokeptinthemiddleHethentookoffthebarkfromeachhalfpressingashort pieceof cedar bark against the convex sidewithbothhandswhilehedrewtherootupwardwithhisteethAnIndiansteetharestrongandInoticedthatheusedhisoftenwhereweshouldhaveusedahandTheyamountedtoathird handHe thus obtained in amoment a very neat tough and flexiblestringwhichhecouldtieintoaknotormakeintoafish-lineevenItissaidthat inNorwayandSweden the rootsof theNorway spruce (Abies excelsa)are used in the sameway for the same purposeHe said that youwould beobligedtogivehalfadollarforsprucerootenoughforacanoethuspreparedHehadhired thesewingofhisowncanoe thoughhemadeall therestTherootinhiscanoewasofapaleslate-colorprobablyacquiredbyexposuretotheweatherorperhapsfrombeingboiledinwaterfirstHehaddiscoveredthedaybeforethathiscanoeleakedalittleandsaidthatitwasowingtosteppingintoitviolentlywhichforcedthewaterundertheedgeofthehorizontalseamsonthesideIaskedhimwherehewouldgetpitchtomend it with for they commonly use hard pitch obtained of the whites atOldtown He said that he could make something very similar and equallygoodnotof sprucegumor the likebutofmaterialwhichwehadwithusandhewishedmetoguesswhatButIcouldnotandhewouldnot tellmethoughheshowedmeaballofitwhenmadeasbigasapeaandlikeblackpitchsayingatlastthatthereweresomethingswhichamandidnottellevenhis wife It may have been his own discovery In Arnolds expedition thepioneersusedfortheircanoetheturpentineofthepineandthescrapingsofthepork-bagBeingcurioustoseewhatkindoffishestherewereinthisdarkdeepsluggishriver Icast inmy line justbeforenightandcaughtseveral small somewhatyellowish sucker-like fishes which the Indian at once rejected saying that

theyweremichigan fish (i e soft and stinking fish) and good for nothingAlsohewouldnottouchapoutwhichIcaughtandsaidthatneitherIndiansnorwhitesthereaboutseveratethemwhichIthoughtwassingularsincetheyare esteemed inMassachusetts and he had told me that he ate hedgehogsloons etc But he said that some small silvery fishes which I calledwhitechivinwhichweresimilarinsizeandformtothefirstwerethebestfishinthePenobscotwatersandifIwouldtossthemupthebanktohimhewouldcookthemformeAftercleaningthemnotverycarefullyleavingtheheadsonhelaidthemonthecoalsandsobroiledthemReturningfromashortwalkhebroughtavineinhishandandaskedmeifIknewwhatitwassayingthatitmadethebestteaofanythinginthewoodsItwasthecreepingsnowberry(Chiogeneshispidula)whichwasquitecommonthereitsberriesjustgrownHecalleditcowosnebagosarwhichnameimpliesthat it grows where old prostrate trunks have collapsed and rotted So wedeterminedtohavesometeamadeofthisto-nightIthadaslightcheckerberryflavorandwebothagreedthatitwasreallybetterthantheblackteawhichwehadbroughtWethoughtitquiteadiscoveryandthatitmightwellbedriedand sold in the shops I for one however am not an old tea-drinker andcannotspeakwithauthoritytoothersItwouldhavebeenparticularlygoodtocarry along for a cold drink during the day the water thereabouts beinginvariably warm The Indian said that they also used for tea a certain herbwhich grew in low ground which he did not find there and ledum orLabrador teawhich I have since found and tried inConcord also hemlockleaves the last especially in thewinterwhen the other plantswere coveredwith snow and various other things but he did not approve of arbor-vitaeligwhichIsaidIhaddrunkinthosewoodsWecouldhavehadanewkindofteaeverynightJustbeforenightwesawamusquash(hedidnotsaymuskrat) theonlyonewe saw in this voyage swimming downward on the opposite side of thestreamTheIndianwishingtogetonetoeathushedussayingStopmecallemandsittingflatonthebankhebegantomakeacurioussqueakingwirysoundwithhis lipsexertinghimselfconsiderablyIwasgreatlysurprisedmdashthoughtthatIhadatlastgotintothewildernessandthathewasawildmanindeedtobetalkingtoamusquashIdidnotknowwhichofthetwowasthestrangest tome He seemed suddenly to have quite forsaken humanity andgoneover to themusquashsideThemusquashhoweverasnearas Icouldseedidnot turnaside thoughhemayhavehesitateda littleand the Indiansaidthathesawourfirebutitwasevidentthathewasinthehabitofcallingthemusquash tohimashesaidAnacquaintanceofminewhowashuntingmooseinthosewoodsamonthafterthistellsmethathisIndianinthiswayrepeatedly called themusquashwithin reachofhispaddle in themoonlightandstruckatthem

TheIndiansaidaparticularlylongprayerthisSundayeveningasiftoatoneforworkinginthemorningMONDAYJuly27HavingrapidlyloadedthecanoewhichtheIndianalwayscarefullyattendedtothatitmightbewelltrimmedandeachhavingtakenalookasusualtoseethat nothing was left we set out again descending the Caucomgomoc andturningnortheasterlyuptheUmbazookskusThisnametheIndiansaidmeantMuchMeadowRiverWe found it a verymeadowy stream and deadwaterandnowverywideonaccountoftherainsthoughhesaiditwassometimesquitenarrowThespacebetweenthewoodschieflybaremeadowwasfromfiftytotwohundredrodsinbreadthandisarareplaceformooseItremindedme of the Concord and what increased the resemblance was one oldmusquash-housealmostafloatInthewateronthemeadowsgrewsedgeswool-grassthecommonblueflagabundantlyitsflowerjustshowingitselfabovethehighwaterasifitwereabluewater-lilyandhigherinthemeadowsagreatmanyclumpsofapeculiarnarrow-leaved willow (Salix petiolaris) which is common in our rivermeadows It was the prevailing one here and the Indian said that themusquashatemuchofitandherealsogrewtheredosier(Cornusstolonifera)itslargefruitnowwhitishThoughitwasstillearlyinthemorningwesawnighthawkscirclingoverthemeadow and asusualheard thepepe (MuscicapaCooperi)which is oneoftheprevailingbirdsinthesewoodsandtherobinItwasunusual for thewoods tobe sodistant from the shore and therewasquite an echo from thembutwhen Iwas shouting inorder to awake it theIndianremindedmethatIshouldscarethemoosewhichhewaslookingoutfor and which we all wanted to see The word for echowasPockadunkquaywayleAbroadbeltofdeadlarchtreesalongthedistantedgeofthemeadowagainsttheforestoneachsideincreasedtheusualwildnessofthesceneryTheIndiancalled these juniper and said that they had been killed by the backwatercaused by the dam at the outlet of Chesuncook Lake some twenty milesdistant I plucked at the waters edge the Asclepias incarnata with quitehandsomeflowersabrighterredthanourvariety(thepulchra)ItwastheonlyformofitwhichIsawthereHavingpaddledseveralmilesuptheUmbazookskusitsuddenlycontractedtoamerebrooknarrowand swift the larches andother trees approaching thebankandleavingnoopenmeadowandwelandedtogetablacksprucepoleforpushingagainst the streamThiswas the firstoccasion foroneTheoneselectedwasquiteslendercutabouttenfeetlongmerelywhittledtoapoint

andthebarkshavedoffThestreamthoughnarrowandswiftwasstilldeepwithamuddybottomas Iprovedbydiving to itBeside theplantswhichIhavementioned I observedon thebankhere theSalix cordata and rostrataRanunculusrecurvatusandRubustrifloruswithripefruitWhilewewerethusemployedtwoIndiansinacanoehoveinsightroundthebushescomingdownstreamOurIndianknewoneofthemanoldmanandfell into conversation with him in Indian He belonged at the foot ofMooseheadTheotherwasofanothertribeTheywerereturningfromhuntingIasked theyounger if theyhadseenanymoose towhichhesaidnobut Iseeing the moose-hides sticking out from a great bundle made with theirblankets in themiddleof the canoe added Only theirhidesAshewasaforeignerhemayhavewishedtodeceivemeforitisagainstthelawforwhitemenandforeignerstokillmooseinMaineatthisseasonButperhapsheneednothavebeenalarmedforthemoose-wardensarenotveryparticularIheardquitedirectlyofonewhobeingaskedbyawhitemangoing into thewoodswhathewouldsayifhekilledamooseansweredIfyoubringmeaquarterof it I guess you wont be troubled His duty being as he said only toprevent theindiscriminateslaughterof themfor theirhides I suppose thathe would consider it an indiscriminate slaughter when a quarter was notreservedforhimselfSucharetheperquisitesofthisofficeWecontinuedalongthroughthemostextensivelarchwoodwhichIhadseenmdashtall and slender trees with fantastic branches But though this was theprevailingtreehereIdonotrememberthatwesawanyafterwardYoudonotfind straggling treesof this specieshere and there throughout thewoodbutratheralittleforestofthemThesameisthecasewiththewhiteandredpinesandsomeothertreesgreatlytotheconvenienceofthelumbererTheyareofasocialhabitgrowinginveinsclumpsgroupsorcommunitiesastheexplorerscall themdistinguishingthemfarawayfromthetopofahilloratreethewhitepinestoweringabovethesurroundingforestorelsetheyformextensive forests by themselves I should have liked to come across a largecommunityofpineswhichhadneverbeeninvadedbythelumberingarmyWesawsomefreshmoose-tracksalongtheshorebuttheIndiansaidthatthemoosewerenotdrivenoutofthewoodsbythefliesasusualatthisseasononaccountoftheabundanceofwatereverywhereThestreamwasonlyfromoneandonehalftothreerodswidequitewindingwithoccasionalsmallislandsmeadows and some very swift and shallow places When we came to anislandtheIndianneverhesitatedwhichsidetotakeasifthecurrenttoldhimwhichwastheshortestanddeepestItwasluckyforusthatthewaterwassohighWehadtowalkbutonceonthisstreamcarryingapartoftheloadataswiftandshallowreachwhilehegotupwiththecanoenotbeingobligedtotakeoutthoughhesaiditwasverystrongwaterOnceortwicewepassedthe

redwreckofabatteauwhichhadbeenstovesomespringWhilemakingthisportageIsawmanysplendidspecimensofthegreatpurplefringed orchis three feet high It is remarkable that such delicate flowersshouldhereadornthesewildernesspathsHaving resumed our seats in the canoe I felt the Indian wiping my backwhichhehadaccidentallyspatuponHesaiditwasasignthatIwasgoingtobemarriedThe Umbazookskus River is called ten miles long Having poled up thenarrowestpartsomethreeorfourmilesthenextopeningintheskywasoverUmbazookskusLakewhichwesuddenlyenteredaboutelevenoclockintheforenoon It stretches northwesterly four or fivemileswithwhat the Indiancalled the CaucomgomocMountain seen far beyond it It was an agreeablechangeThis lakewasveryshallowa longdistancefromtheshoreandIsawstone-heaps on the bottom like those in theAssabet at homeThe canoe ran intooneThe Indian thought that theyweremadebyaneel JoeAitteon in1853thoughtthattheyweremadebychubWecrossedthesoutheastendofthelaketothecarryintoMudPondUmbazookskusLakeis theheadof thePenobscot in thisdirectionandMudPond is thenearestheadof theAllegashoneof thechief sourcesof theStJohnHodgewhowentthroughthiswaytotheStLawrenceintheserviceoftheStatecallstheportagehereamileandthreequarterslongandstatesthatMud Pond has been found to be fourteen feet higher than UmbazookskusLake As the West Branch of the Penobscot at the Moosehead carry isconsideredabouttwenty-fivefeetlowerthanMooseheadLakeitappearsthatthe Penobscot in the upper part of its course runs in a broad and shallowvalley between the Kennebec and St John and lower than either of themthoughjudgingfromthemapyoumightexpectittobethehighestMudPond is abouthalfway fromUmbazookskus toChamberlainLake intowhichitemptiesandtowhichwewereboundTheIndiansaidthatthiswasthe wettest carry in the State and as the season was a very wet one weanticipated an unpleasant walk As usual he made one large bundle of thepork-keg cooking-utensils and other loose traps by tying them up in hisblanketWeshouldbeobligedtogooverthecarrytwiceandourmethodwastocarryonehalfpartwayandthengobackfortherestOurpathranclosebythedoorofaloghutinaclearingatthisendofthecarrywhich the Indianwhoaloneentered it found tobeoccupiedbyaCanadianand his family and that the man had been blind for a year He seemedpeculiarlyunfortunatetobetakenblindtherewherethereweresofeweyestoseeforhimHecouldnotevenbeledoutofthatcountrybyadogbutmustbe

takendowntherapidsaspassivelyasabarrelofflourThiswasthefirsthouseaboveChesuncookandthelastonthePenobscotwatersandwasbuiltherenodoubtbecauseitwastherouteofthelumberersinthewinterandspringAfteraslightascentfromthelakethroughthespringysoiloftheCanadiansclearing we entered on a level and very wet and rocky path through theuniversal dense evergreen forest a loosely paved gutter merely where wewent leapingfromrock to rockandfromside toside in thevainattempt tokeepoutofthewaterandmudWeconcludedthatitwasyetPenobscotwaterthoughtherewasnoflowtoitItwasonthiscarrythatthewhitehunterwhomImet in the stage as he toldme had shot two bears a fewmonths beforeTheystooddirectly in thepathanddidnot turnoutforhimTheymightbeexcusedfornot turningout thereoronly taking therightas the lawdirectsHesaidthatatthisseasonbearswerefoundonthemountainsandhillsidesinsearchofberriesandwereapttobesaucymdashthatwemightcomeacrossthemupTroutStreamandheaddedwhatIhardlycreditedthatmanyIndianssleptintheircanoesnotdaringtosleeponlandonaccountofthemHerecommenceswhatwascalled twentyyearsago thebest timber land inthe State This very spot was described as covered with the greatestabundance of pine but now this appeared to me comparatively anuncommon tree theremdashandyetyoudidnot seewhereanymorecouldhavestoodamidthedensegrowthofcedarfiretcItwasthenproposedtocutacanal from lake to lakeherebut theoutletwas finallymade farther east atTelosLakeasweshallseeTheIndianwithhiscanoesoondisappearedbeforeusbutere longhecameback and told us to take a path which turned off westward it being betterwalkingandatmysuggestionheagreedtoleaveaboughintheregularcarryatthatplacethatwemightnotpassitbymistakeThereafterhesaidweweretokeepthemainpathandheaddedYouseeemmytracksButIhadnotmuchfaiththatwecoulddistinguishhistrackssinceothershadpassedoverthecarrywithinafewdaysWeturnedoffattherightplacebutweresoonconfusedbynumerouslogging-pathscomingintotheonewewereonbywhichlumberershadbeentopickout those pines which I have mentioned However we kept what weconsidered themain path though itwas awinding one and in this at longintervals we distinguished a faint trace of a footstep This thoughcomparativelyunwornwasat firstabetterorat leastadrier road than theregularcarrywhichwehadleftItledthroughanarbor-vitaeligwildernessofthegrimmestcharacterThegreatfallenandrottingtreeshadbeencutthroughandrolled aside and their huge trunks abutted on the path on each side whileothers still lay across it two or three feet high It was impossible for us todiscerntheIndianstrailintheelasticmosswhichlikeathickcarpetcovered

everyrockandfallentreeaswellastheearthNeverthelessIdidoccasionallydetect the trackofamanandIgavemyselfsomecredit for it Icarriedmywholeloadatonceaheavyknapsackandalargeindia-rubberbagcontainingourbreadandablanketswungonapaddleinallaboutsixtypoundsbutmycompanionpreferredtomaketwojourneysbyshortstageswhileIwaitedforhimWecouldnot be sure thatwewerenot depositingour loads each timefartherofffromthetruepathAsIsatwaitingformycompanionhewouldseemtobegonealongtimeandIhadampleopportunitytomakeobservationsontheforestInowfirstbegantobeseriouslymolestedbytheblackflyaverysmallbutperfectlyformedflyofthatcoloraboutonetenthofaninchlongwhichIfirstfeltandthensawinswarmsaboutmeasIsatbyawiderandmorethanusuallydoubtfulforkinthisdark forestpathThehunters tell bloody stories about themmdashhow theysettleinaringaboutyourneckbeforeyouknowitandarewipedoffingreatnumberswithyourbloodButrememberingthatIhadawashinmyknapsackpreparedbyathoughtfulhandinBangorImadehastetoapplyittomyfaceand hands andwas glad to find it effectual as long as itwas fresh or fortwentyminutesnotonlyagainstblackfliesbutall theinsects thatmolestedusTheywouldnotalightonthepartthusdefendedItwascomposedofsweetoilandoilofturpentinewithalittleoilofspearmintandcamphorHoweverI finally concluded that the remedy was worse than the disease It was sodisagreeableandinconvenienttohaveyourfaceandhandscoveredwithsuchamixtureThree large slate-colored birds of the jay genus (Garrulus Canadensis) theCanadajaymoose-birdmeat-birdorwhatnotcameflittingsilentlyandbydegreestowardmeandhoppeddownthelimbsinquisitivelytowithinsevenor eight feet They were more clumsy and not nearly so handsome as thebluejay Fish hawks from the lake uttered their sharp whistling notes lowoverthetopoftheforestnearmeasiftheywereanxiousaboutanestthereAfterIhadsattheresometimeInoticedatthisforkinthepathatreewhichhadbeenblazedandthelettersChambLwrittenonitwithredchalkThisIknewtomeanChamberlainLakeSoIconcludedthatonthewholewewereontherightcoursethoughaswehadcomenearlytwomilesandsawnosignsofMudPondIdidharborthesuspicionthatwemightbeonadirectcoursetoChamberlainLakeleavingoutMudPondThisIfoundbymymapwouldbeaboutfivemilesnortheasterlyandIthentookthebearingbymycompassMycompanionhavingreturnedwithhisbagandalsodefendedhisfaceandhandswith the insect-washweset forwardagainThewalkingrapidlygrewworse and the path more indistinct and at length after passing through apatch of Calla palustris still abundantly in bloomwe found ourselves in amore open and regular swamp made less passable than ordinary by the

unusualwetnessoftheseasonWesankafootdeepinwaterandmudateverystep and sometimes up to our knees and the trail was almost obliteratedbeingnomorethanthatamusquashleavesinsimilarplaceswhenhepartsthefloatingsedge In fact itprobablywasamusquash trail in someplacesWeconcluded that ifMudPondwasasmuddyas theapproach to itwaswet itcertainlydeserveditsnameItwouldhavebeenamusingtobeholdthedoggedanddeliberatepaceatwhichweenteredthatswampwithoutinterchangingawordasifdeterminedtogothroughitthoughitshouldcomeuptoournecksHaving penetrated a considerable distance into this and found a tussock onwhich we could deposit our loads though there was no place to sit mycompanionwentbackfortherestofhispackIhadthoughttoobserveonthiscarrywhenwecrossedthedividinglinebetweenthePenobscotandStJohnbutasmyfeethadhardlybeenoutofwaterthewholedistanceanditwasalllevel and stagnant I began to despair of finding it I remembered hearing agood deal about the highlands dividing the waters of the Penobscot fromthoseoftheStJohnaswellastheStLawrenceatthetimeofthenortheastboundarydisputeandIobservedbymymap that the lineclaimedbyGreatBritain as the boundary prior to 1842 passed betweenUmbazookskus LakeandMudPondsothatwehadeithercrossedorwerethenonitThesethenaccordingtoherinterpretationofthetreatyof83werethehighlandswhichdivide those rivers that empty themselves into the St Lawrence from thosewhichfallintotheAtlanticOceanTrulyaninterestingspottostandonmdashifthat were itmdashthough you could not sit down there I thought that if thecommissioners themselves and theKingofHollandwith them had spent afewdaysherewiththeirpacksupontheirbackslookingforthathighlandtheywouldhavehadaninterestingtimeandperhapsitwouldhavemodifiedtheirviewsofthequestionsomewhatTheKingofHollandwouldhavebeeninhiselementSuchweremymeditationswhilemycompanionwasgonebackforhisbagItwasacedarswamp throughwhichthepeculiarnoteof thewhite-throatedsparrowrangloudandclearTheregrewtheside-saddleflowerLabradorteaKalmia glauca andwhatwas new tome the low birch (Betula pumila) alittleround-leafedshrubtwoorthreefeethighonlyWethoughttonamethisswampafterthelatterAfteralongwhilemycompanioncamebackandtheIndianwithhimWehadtaken thewrong road and the Indian had lost usHe had verywisely goneback to the Canadians camp and asked him which way we had probablygonesincehecouldbetterunderstandthewaysofwhitemenandhetoldhimcorrectlythatwehadundoubtedlytakenthesupplyroadtoChamberlainLake(slendersuppliestheywouldgetoversucharoadatthisseason)TheIndianwasgreatlysurprisedthatweshouldhavetakenwhathecalledatow(ietote or toting or supply) road instead of a carry pathmdashthat we had not

followedhistracksmdashsaiditwasstrangeandevidentlythoughtlittleofourwoodcraftHavingheldaconsultationandeatenamouthfulofbreadweconcludedthatitwouldperhapsbenearer forus twonowtokeepon toChamberlainLakeomittingMudPondthantogobackandstartanewforthelastplacethoughtheIndianhadneverbeenthroughthiswayandknewnothingaboutitInthemeanwhilehewouldgobackandfinishcarryingoverhiscanoeandbundletoMudPondcrossthatandgodownitsoutletandupChamberlainLakeandtrusttomeetustherebeforenightItwasnowalittleafternoonHesupposedthat the water in which we stood had flowed back fromMud Pond whichcouldnotbefaroffeastwardbutwasunapproachablethroughthedensecedarswampKeeping on we were ere long agreeably disappointed by reaching firmerground andwe crossed a ridgewhere the pathwasmore distinct but therewasneveranyoutlookovertheforestWhiledescendingthelastIsawmanyspecimens of the great round-leaved orchis of large size one which ImeasuredhadleavesasusualflatonthegroundnineandahalfincheslongandninewideandwastwofeethighThedarkdampwildernessisfavorableto some of these orchidaceous plants though they are too delicate forcultivationIalsosawtheswampgooseberry(Rideslacustre)withgreenfruitandinallthelowgroundwhereitwasnottoowettheRubustriflorusinfruitAtoneplaceIheardaveryclearandpiercingnotefromasmallhawklikeasingle note from a white-throated sparrow only very much louder as hedashed through the tree-tops over my head I wondered that he allowedhimself to be disturbed by our presence since it seemed as if he could noteasily findhisnest againhimself in thatwildernessWealso sawandheardseveraltimestheredsquirrelandoftenasbeforeobservedthebluishscalesofthefirconeswhichithadleftonarockorfallentreeThisaccordingtotheIndian is the only squirrel found in thosewoods except a very few stripedonesItmusthaveasolitarytimeinthatdarkevergreenforestwherethereissolittlelifeseventy-fivemilesfromaroadaswehadcomeIwonderedhowhecouldcallanyparticulartreetherehishomeandyethewouldrunupthestemofoneoutof themyriadsas if itwereanoldroad tohimHowcanahawkeverfindhimthereIfanciedthathemustbegladtoseeusthoughhedid seem to chide us One of those sombre fir and spruce woods is notcompleteunlessyouhear fromout itscavernousmossyand twiggyrecesseshisfinealarummdashhissprucevoiceliketheworkingofthesapthroughsomecrack ina treemdashtheworkingof thesprucebeerSuchan impertinent fellowwouldoccasionallytrytoalarmthewoodaboutmeOhsaidIIamwellacquaintedwithyourfamilyIknowyourcousinsinConcordverywellGuessthemails irregular in theseparts andyoud like tohear from emButmyovertureswerevainforhewouldwithdrawbyhisaerialturnpikesintoamore

distantcedar-topandspringhisrattleagainWethenenteredanotherswampatanecessarilyslowpacewherethewalkingwasworsethanevernotonlyonaccountof thewaterbut thefallentimberwhich often obliterated the indistinct trail entirely The fallen treeswere sonumerousthatforlongdistancestheroutewasthroughasuccessionofsmallyardswhereweclimbedover fencesashighasourheadsdown intowateroftenuptoourkneesandthenoveranotherfenceintoasecondyardandsoonandgoingback forhisbagmycompaniononce losthiswayandcamebackwithoutitInmanyplacesthecanoewouldhaverunifithadnotbeenforthefallentimberAgainitwouldbemoreopenbutequallywet toowetfortrees to grow and no place to sit down It was a mossy swamp which itrequired the long legs of amoose to traverse and it is very likely that wescaredsomeoftheminourtransitthoughwesawnoneItwasreadytoechothegrowlofabearthehowlofawolforthescreamofapantherbutwhenyougetfairlyintothemiddleofoneofthesegrimforestsyouaresurprisedtofindthatthelargerinhabitantsarenotathomecommonlybuthaveleftonlyapuny red squirrel to bark at you Generally speaking a howlingwildernessdoesnothowlitistheimaginationofthetravelerthatdoesthehowlingIdidhoweverseeonedeadporcupineperhapshehadsuccumbedtothedifficultiesof the way These bristly fellows are a very suitable small fruit of suchunkemptwildernessesMakingalogging-roadintheMainewoodsiscalledswampingitandtheywho do thework are called swampers I now perceived the fitness of thetermThiswasthemostperfectlyswampedofalltheroadsIeversawNaturemusthavecooperatedwitharthereHowever Isuppose theywould tellyouthatthisnametookitsoriginfromthefactthatthechiefworkofroadmakersinthosewoodsistomaketheswampspassableWecametoastreamwherethe bridgewhich had beenmade of logs tied togetherwith cedar bark hadbeenbrokenupandwegotoveraswecouldThisprobablyemptiedintoMudPondandperhapstheIndianmighthavecomeupitandtakenusinthereifhehadknownitSuchasitwasthisruinedbridgewasthechiefevidencethatwewereonapathofanykindWe then crossed another low rising ground and Iwhowore shoes had anopportunity towringoutmystockingsbutmycompanionwhousedbootshadfoundthatthiswasnotasafeexperimentforhimforhemightnotbeabletogethiswetbootsonagainHewentoverthewholegroundorwaterthreetimes for which reason our progress was very slow beside that the watersoftened our feet and to some extent unfitted them for walking As I satwaiting forhim itwouldnaturally seemanunaccountable time that hewasgone Therefore as I could see through thewoods that the sunwas gettinglowand itwasuncertainhowfar the lakemightbeeven ifwewereon the

right course and in what part of the world we should find ourselves atnightfall I proposed that I should push through with what speed I couldleavingboughstomarkmypathandfindthelakeandtheIndianifpossiblebeforenightandsendthelatterbacktocarrymycompanionsbagHavinggoneaboutamileandgotintolowgroundagainIheardanoiselikethenoteof anowlwhich I soondiscovered tobemadeby the Indian andansweringhimwesooncametogetherHehadreachedthelakeaftercrossingMudPondandrunningsomerapidsbelowitandhadcomeupaboutamileand a half on our path If he had not come back to meet us we probablyshould not have found him that night for the path branched once or twicebefore reaching this particular part of the lake So he went back for mycompanion and his bag while I kept on Having waded through anotherstreamwherethebridgeoflogshadbeenbrokenupandhalffloatedawaymdashandthiswasnotaltogetherworsethanourordinarywalkingsinceitwaslessmuddymdashwecontinuedon throughalternatemudandwater to the shoreofApmoojenegamook Lake which we reached in season for a late supperinsteadofdiningthereaswehadexpectedhavinggonewithoutourdinnerItwasat least fivemilesby thewaywehadcomeandasmycompanionhadgoneovermostofit threetimeshehadwalkedfulladozenmilesbadasitwasInthewinterwhenthewaterisfrozenandthesnowisfourfeetdeepitisnodoubtatolerablepathtoafootmanAsitwasIwouldnothavemissedthatwalkforagooddealIfyouwantanexactrecipeformakingsucharoadtakeonepartMudPondanddiluteitwithequalpartsofUmbazookskusandApmoojenegamookthensendafamilyofmusquashthroughtolocateitlookafter thegradesandculvertsandfinish it to theirmindsandletahurricanefollowtodothefencingWe had come out on a point extending into Apmoojenegamook orChamberlainLakewestoftheoutletofMudPondwheretherewasabroadgravellyandrockyshoreencumberedwithbleachedlogsandtreesWewererejoicedtoseesuchdrythingsinthatpartoftheworldButatfirstwedidnotattendtodrynesssomuchastomudandwetnessWeallthreewalkedintothelakeuptoourmiddletowashourclothesThiswasanothernoble lakecalled twelvemiles longeastandwest ifyouaddTelosLakewhichsincethedamwasbuilthasbeenconnectedwithitbydeadwateritwillbetwentyanditisapparentlyfromamileandahalftotwomileswideWewereaboutmidwayitslengthonthesouthsideWecouldseetheonlyclearing in theseparts called theChamberlainFarmwith twoorthreelogbuildingsclosetogetherontheoppositeshoresometwoandahalfmilesdistantThesmokeofourfireontheshorebroughtovertwomeninacanoefromthefarmthatbeingacommonsignalagreedonwhenonewishestocrossIttookthemabouthalfanhourtocomeoverandtheyhadtheirlabor

for their pains this time Even the English name of the lake had a wildwoodland sound reminding me of that Chamberlain who killed Paugus atLovewellsfightAfterputtingonsuchdryclothesaswehadandhangingtheotherstodryonthepolewhich the Indianarrangedover the fireweateour supper and laydownonthepebblyshorewithourfeettothefirewithoutpitchingourtentmakingathinbedofgrasstocoverthestonesHerefirstIwasmolestedbythelittlemidgecalledtheno-see-em(SimuliumnocivummdashthelatterwordisnottheLatinforno-see-em)especiallyoverthesandat thewaters edge for it is akindof sand-flyYouwouldnotobservethembutfortheirlight-coloredwingsTheyaresaidtogetunderyourclothesandproduceafeverishheatwhichIsupposewaswhatIfeltthatnightOurinsectfoesinthisexcursiontosumthemupwerefirstmosquitoesthechiefonesbutonlytroublesomeatnightorwhenwesatstillonshorebydaysecondblackflies(Simuliummolestum)whichmolestedusmoreorlessonthecarriesbydayasIhavebeforedescribedandsometimesinnarrowerpartsofthestreamHarrismistakeswhenhesaysthattheyarenotseenafterJuneThirdmoose-fliesThebigonesPolissaidwerecalledBososquasis It isastout brown fly much like a horse-fly about eleven sixteenths of an inchlong commonly rusty-coloredbeneathwithunspottedwingsThey canbitesmartlyaccordingtoPolisbutareeasilyavoidedorkilledFourththeno-see-ems above mentioned Of all these the mosquitoes are the only ones thattroubledmeseriouslybutasIwasprovidedwithawashandaveiltheyhavenotmadeanydeepimpressionTheIndianwouldnotuseourwashtoprotecthisfaceandhandsforfearthatitwouldhurthisskinnorhadheanyveilhethereforesufferedfrominsectsnow and throughout this journey more than either of us I think that hesufferedmorethanIdidwhenneitherofuswasprotectedHeregularlytieduphisfaceinhishandkerchiefandburieditinhisblanketandhenowfinallylaydownonthesandbetweenusandthefireforthesakeofthesmokewhichhetriedtomakeenterhisblanketabouthisfaceandforthesamepurposehelithispipeandbreathedthesmokeintohisblanketAswelaythusontheshorewithnothingbetweenusandthestarsIinquiredwhat stars hewas acquaintedwith or had names for Theywere theGreatBearwhichhecalledbythisnametheSevenStarswhichhehadnoEnglishnameforthemorningstarandthenorthstarInthemiddleofthenightasindeedeachtimethatwelayontheshoreofalakeweheardthevoiceoftheloonloudanddistinctfromfaroverthelakeItisaverywildsoundquiteinkeepingwiththeplaceandthecircumstancesofthetravelerandveryunlikethevoiceofabirdIcouldlieawakeforhours

listeningtoititissothrillingWhencampinginsuchawildernessasthisyouarepreparedtohearsoundsfromsomeofitsinhabitantswhichwillgivevoiceto its wildness Some idea of bears wolves or panthers runs in your headnaturallyandwhenthisnoteisfirstheardveryfaroffatmidnightasyouliewithyour ear to thegroundmdashthe forest beingperfectly still aboutyou youtakeitforgrantedthat it is thevoiceofawolforsomeotherwildbeastforonlythelastpartisheardwhenatadistancemdashyouconcludethatitisapackofwolvesbayingthemoonorperchancecanteringafteramooseStrangeasitmayseemthemooingofacowonamountain-sidecomesnearesttomyidea of the voice of a bear and this birds note resembled that It was theunfailingandcharacteristicsoundofthoselakesWewerenotsoluckyastohear wolves howl though that is an occasional serenade Some friends ofminewho twoyearsagowentup theCaucomgomocRiverwereserenadedbywolveswhilemoose-huntingbymoonlight Itwasasuddenburstas ifahundred demons had broke loosemdasha startling sound enoughwhich if anywouldmake your hair stand on end and all was still again It lasted but amoment andyoudhave thought therewere twentyof themwhenprobablytherewereonly twoor threeTheyheard it twiceonly and they said that itgaveexpressiontothewildernesswhichitlackedbeforeIheardofsomemenwhowhileskinningamooselatelyinthosewoodsweredrivenofffromthecarcassbyapackofwolveswhichateitupThisof the loonmdashIdonotmean its laughbut its looningmdashisa long-drawncallasitweresometimessingularlyhumantomyearmdashhoo-hoo-ooooolikethehallooingofamanonaveryhighkeyhaving thrownhisvoice intohisheadIhaveheardasoundexactlylikeitwhenbreathingheavilythroughmyownnostrilshalfawakeattenatnightsuggestingmyaffinitytotheloonasif its languagewerebutadialectofmyownafterallFormerlywhenlyingawake at midnight in those woods I had listened to hear some words orsyllablesoftheirlanguagebutitchancedthatIlistenedinvainuntilIheardthe cry of the loon I have heard it occasionally on the ponds ofmy nativetownbutthereitswildnessisnotenhancedbythesurroundingsceneryIwasawakenedatmidnightbysomeheavylow-flyingbirdprobablyaloonflappingbycloseovermyheadalongtheshoreSoturningtheothersideofmyhalf-cladbodytothefireIsoughtslumberagainTUESDAYJuly28Whenwe awokewe found a heavy dewon our blankets I lay awake veryearly and listened to theclear shrill ah te te te te teof thewhite-throatedsparrow repeated at short intervals without the least variation for half anhourasifitcouldnotenoughexpressitshappinessWhethermycompanionshearditornotIknownotbutitwasakindofmatinstomeandtheeventofthatforenoon

ItwasapleasantsunriseandwehadaviewofthemountainsinthesoutheastKtaadnappearedaboutsoutheastbysouthAdouble-toppedmountainaboutsoutheastbyeastandanotherportionofthesameeast-southeastThelasttheIndiancalledNerlumskeechticookandsaidthatitwasattheheadoftheEastBranchandweshouldpassnearitonourreturnthatwayWe did somemore washing in the lake thismorning andwith our clotheshungaboutonthedeadtreesandrockstheshorelookedlikewashing-dayathomeThe Indian taking thehint borrowed the soap andwalking into thelakewashedhisonlycottonshirtonhispersonthenputonhispantsandletitdryonhimIobservedthatheworeacottonshirtoriginallywhiteagreenishflanneloneover it but no waistcoat flannel drawers and strong linen or duck pantswhich also had been white blue woolen stockings cowhide boots and aKossuth hatHe carried no change of clothing but putting on a stout thickjacketwhichhelaidasideinthecanoeandseizingafull-sizedaxehisgunand ammunition and a blanket which would do for a sail or knapsack ifwanted and strapping on his belt which contained a large sheath-knife hewalked off at once ready to be gone all summer This looked veryindependent a few simple and effective tools and no india-rubber clothingHewasalways the first ready to start in themorning and if it hadnotheldsome of our property would not have been obliged to roll up his blanketInsteadofcarryingalargebundleofhisownextraclothingetchebroughtbackthegreatcoatsofmoosetiedupinhisblanketIfoundthathisoutfitwasthe result of a long experience and in themain hardly to be improved onunlessbywashingandanextrashirtWantingabuttonherehewalkedofftoaplacewheresomeIndianshadrecentlyencampedandsearchedforonebutIbelieveinvainHaving softened our stiffened boots and shoes with the pork fat the usualdispositionofwhatwasleftatbreakfastwecrossedthelakeearlysteeringinadiagonaldirectionnortheasterlyabout fourmiles to theoutletwhichwasnot to be discovered till we were close to it The IndiannameApmoojenegamookmeanslakethatiscrossedbecausetheusualcourseliesacrossandnotalongitThisisthelargestoftheAllegashlakesandwasthe first St John water that we floated on It is shaped in the main likeChesuncookTherearenomountainsorhighhillsverynearitAtBangorwehadbeentoldofatownshipmanymilesfarthernorthwestitwasindicatedtousascontainingthehighestlandthereaboutswherebyclimbingaparticulartreeintheforestwecouldgetageneralideaofthecountryIhavenodoubtthatthelastwasgoodadvicebutwedidnotgothereWedidnotintendtogofardowntheAllegashbutmerelytogetaviewofthegreatlakeswhichareitssource and then return this way to the East Branch of the Penobscot The

waternowbygoodrightsflowednorthwardifitcouldbesaidtoflowatallAfterreachingthemiddleofthelakewefoundthewavesasusualprettyhighand the Indian warnedmy companion who was nodding that hemust notallowhimselftofallasleepinthecanoelestheshouldupsetusaddingthatwhenIndianswanttosleepinacanoetheyliedownstraightonthebottomButinthiscrowdedonethatwasimpossibleHoweverhesaidthathewouldnudgehimifhesawhimnoddingAbeltofdeadtreesstoodallaroundthelakesomefaroutinthewaterwithothers prostrate behind them and they made the shore for the most partalmostinaccessibleThisistheeffectofthedamattheoutletThusthenaturalsandyorrockyshorewithitsgreenfringewasconcealedanddestroyedWecoasted westward along the north side searching for the outlet about onequarterofamiledistantfromthissavage-lookingshoreonwhichthewaveswerebreakingviolentlyknowingthat itmighteasilybeconcealedamid thisrubbishorby theoverlappingof theshore It is remarkablehow little theseimportant gates to a lake are blazoned There is no triumphal arch over themodest inletoroutletbutat someundistinguishedpoint it trickles inoroutthroughtheuninterruptedforestalmostasthroughaspongeWereachedtheoutletinaboutanhourandcarriedoverthedamtherewhichisquiteasolidstructureandaboutonequarterofamilefarther therewasaseconddamThereaderwillperceivethattheresultofthisparticulardammingaboutChamberlainLake is that thehead-watersof theStJohnaremade toflow by Bangor They have thus dammed all the larger lakes raising theirbroad surfaces many feetMoosehead for instance some forty miles longwith its steamer on it thus turning the forces of nature against herself thattheymightfloattheirspoilsoutofthecountryTheyrapidlyrunoutoftheseimmenseforestsallthefinerandmoreaccessiblepinetimberandthenleavethebearstowatchthedecayingdamsnotclearingnorcultivatingthelandnormakingroadsnorbuildinghousesbutleavingitawildernessastheyfounditInmanypartsonlythesedamsremainlikedesertedbeaver-damsThinkhowmuch land theyhave flowedwithoutaskingNatures leaveWhen theStatewishes toendowanacademyoruniversity itgrants it a tractof forest landonesawrepresentsanacademyagangauniversityThewilderness experiences a sudden rise of all her streams and lakes Shefeels ten thousand vermin gnawing at the base of her noblest trees Manycombiningdrag themoff jarringover therootsof thesurvivorsand tumblethemintotheneareststreamtillthefairesthavingfallentheyscamperofftoransacksomenewwildernessandallisstillagainItisaswhenamigratingarmyofmicegirdlesaforestofpinesThechopperfellstreesfromthesamemotivethatthemousegnawsthemmdashtogethislivingYoutellmethathehasamoreinterestingfamilythanthemouseThatisasithappensHespeaksofa

berth of timber a good place for him to get into just as a wormmightWhenthechopperwouldpraiseapinehewillcommonlytellyouthattheonehecutwassobigthatayokeofoxenstoodonitsstumpasifthatwerewhatthepinehadgrownfortobecomethefootstoolofoxenInmymindseyeIcan see these unwieldy tame deer with a yoke binding them together andbrazen-tippedhornsbetrayingtheirservitudetakingtheirstandonthestumpof each giant pine in succession throughout this whole forest and chewingtheircudthereuntilitisnothingbutanox-pastureandrunoutatthatAsifitwere good for the oxen and some terebinthine or other medicinal qualityascendedintotheirnostrilsOristheirelevatedpositionintendedmerelyasasymbolofthefactthatthepastoralcomesnextinordertothesylvanorhunterlifeThe character of the loggers admiration is betrayed by his very mode ofexpressingit Ifhetoldall thatwasinhismindhewouldsay itwassobigthat I cut it down and then a yoke of oxen could stand on its stump Headmires the log thecarcassorcorpsemorethanthe treeWhymydearsirthetreemighthavestoodonitsownstumpandagreatdealmorecomfortablyand firmly than a yokeof oxen can if youhadnot cut it downWhat righthaveyoutocelebratethevirtuesofthemanyoumurderedTheAnglo-AmericancanindeedcutdownandgrubupallthiswavingforestandmakeastumpspeechandvoteforBuchananonitsruinsbuthecannotconverse with the spirit of the tree he fells he cannot read the poetry andmythology which retire as he advances He ignorantly erases mythologicaltablets in order to print his handbills and town-meeting warrants on themBefore he has learned his a b c in the beautiful but mystic lore of thewildernesswhichSpenserandDantehadjustbeguntoreadhecutsitdowncoinsapine-tree shilling (as if to signify thepinesvalue tohim)putsupadeestrictschoolhouseandintroducesWebstersspelling-bookBelowthelastdamtheriverbeingswiftandshallowthoughbroadenoughwetwowalkedabouthalfamiletolightenthecanoeImadeitaruletocarrymyknapsackwhenIwalkedandalsotokeepittiedtoacrossbarwheninthecanoethatitmightbefoundwiththecanoeifweshouldupsetIheardthedog-daylocusthereandafterwardonthecarriesasoundwhichIhad associated only with more open if not settled countries The area forlocustsmustbesmallintheMainewoodsWewerenowfairlyontheAllegashRiverwhichnameourIndiansaidmeanthemlockbarkThesewatersflownorthwardaboutonehundredmilesatfirstvery feebly then southeasterly two hundred and fifty more to the Bay ofFundyAfterperhapstwomilesofriverweenteredHeronLakecalledonthemapPongokwahemscaringupfortyorfiftyyoungshecorwayssheldrakesattheentrancewhichranoverthewaterwithgreatrapidityasusual inalong

lineThiswasthefourthgreatlakelyingnorthwestandsoutheastlikeChesuncookandmostofthelonglakesinthatneighborhoodandjudgingfromthemapitis about tenmiles longWehadentered it on the southwest side and sawadarkmountain northeast over the lake not very far off nor highwhich theIndian saidwas called PeakedMountain and used by explorers to look fortimberfromTherewasalsosomeotherhigh landmoreeasterlyTheshoreswere in the same ragged and unsightly condition encumbered with deadtimberbothfallenandstandingasinthelast lakeowingtothedamontheAllegashbelowSomelowpointsorislandswerealmostdrownedIsawsomethingwhiteamileoffonthewaterwhichturnedouttobeagreatgullonarockinthemiddlewhichtheIndianwouldhavebeengladtokillandeatbut it flewaway longbeforewewerenearandalsoa flockof summerducks thatwereabout therockwith it Iaskinghimaboutheronssince thiswasHeronLakehesaidthathefoundtheblueheronsnestsinthehardwoodtrees I thought that I sawa light-coloredobjectmovealong theoppositeornorthernshorefourorfivemilesdistantHedidnotknowwhat itcouldbeunlessitwereamoosethoughhehadneverseenawhiteonebuthesaidthathecoulddistinguishamooseanywhereonshoreclearacrossthelakeRoundingapointwestoodacrossabayforamileandahalfor twomilestoward a large island three or four miles down the lake We met withephemeraelig(shadfly)midwayaboutamilefromtheshoreandtheyevidentlyflyoverthewholelakeOnMooseheadIhadseenalargedevils-needlehalfamilefromtheshorecomingfromthemiddleofthelakewhereitwasthreeorfourmileswideat least It hadprobablycrossedBut at last of courseyoucometolakessolargethataninsectcannotflyacrossthemandthisperhapswillservetodistinguishalargelakefromasmalloneWelandedonthesoutheastsideoftheislandwhichwasratherelevatedanddenselywoodedwitharockyshoreinseasonforanearlydinnerSomebodyhadcampedtherenotlongbeforeandlefttheframeonwhichtheystretchedamoose-hidewhichourIndiancriticisedseverelythinkingitshowedbutlittlewoodcraftHerewereplentyoftheshellsofcrayfishorfresh-waterlobsterswhichhadbeenwashedashoresuchashavegivenanametosomepondsandstreamsTheyarecommonlyfourorfiveincheslongTheIndianproceededatoncetocutacanoebirchslanteditupagainstanothertreeontheshoretyingitwithawitheandlaydowntosleepinitsshadeWhen we were on the Caucomgomoc he recommended to us a new wayhome theveryonewhichwehad first thoughtofby theSt JohnHeevensaidthatitwaseasierandwouldtakebutlittlemoretimethantheotherbytheEastBranchofthePenobscotthoughverymuchfartherroundandtakingthemapheshowedwhereweshouldbeeachnightforhewasfamiliarwith

therouteAccordingtohiscalculationweshouldreachtheFrenchsettlementsthenextnightafterthisbykeepingnorthwarddowntheAllegashandwhenwegotintothemainStJohnthebankswouldbemoreorlesssettledallthewayasifthatwerearecommendationTherewouldbebutoneortwofallswithshortcarrying-placesandweshouldgodownthestreamveryfastevenahundredmilesadayifthewindallowedandheindicatedwhereweshouldcarryoverintoEelRivertosaveabendbelowWoodstockinNewBrunswickandsointotheSchoodicLakeandthencetotheMattawamkeagItwouldbeaboutthreehundredandsixtymilestoBangorthiswaythoughonlyaboutonehundredandsixtybytheotherbutintheformercaseweshouldexploretheSt John from its source through two thirds of its course as well as theSchoodicLake andMattawamkeagmdashandwewere again tempted to go thatwayIfearedhoweverthatthebanksoftheStJohnweretoomuchsettledWhenIaskedhimwhichcoursewouldtakeusthroughthewildestcountryhesaidtheroutebytheEastBranchPartlyfromthisconsiderationasalsofromits shortness we resolved to adhere to the latter route and perhaps ascendKtaadn on the wayWemade this island the limit of our excursion in thisdirectionWehadnowseenthelargestoftheAllegashlakesThenextdamwasaboutfifteenmilesfarthernorthdowntheAllegashanditwasdeadwatersofarWehadbeentoldinBangorofamanwholivedaloneasortofhermitatthatdamto takecareof itwhospenthis timetossingabulletfromonehandtotheotherforwantofemploymentmdashasifwemightwanttocallonhimThissort of tit-for-tat intercourse between his two hands bandying to and fro aleadensubjectseemstohavebeenhissymbolforsocietyThis island according to themap was about a hundred and tenmiles in astraight linenorth-northwest fromBangor and about ninety-ninemiles east-southeastfromQuebecTherewasanotherislandvisibletowardthenorthendof the lakewith an elevated clearingon it butwe learned afterward that itwasnotinhabitedhadonlybeenusedasapastureforcattlewhichsummeredinthesewoodsthoughourinformantsaidthattherewasahutonthemainlandnear theoutletof thelakeThisunnaturallysmooth-shavensquarishspot inthe midst of the otherwise uninterrupted forest only reminded us howuninhabited the countrywasYouwould sooner expect tomeetwith a bearthananoxinsuchaclearingAtanyrateitmusthavebeenasurprisetothebearswhentheycameacrossitSuchseenfarornearyouknowatoncetobemansworkforNatureneverdoesitInordertoletinthelighttotheearthasonalakeheclearsofftheforestonthehillsidesandplainsandsprinklesfinegrassseedlikeanenchanterandsocarpetstheearthwithafirmswardPolishadevidentlymorecuriosityrespectingthefewsettlersinthosewoodsthan we If nothing was said he took it for granted that we wanted to go

straighttothenextlog-hutHavingobservedthatwecamebytheloghutsatChesuncook and the blind Canadians at the Mud Pond carry withoutstopping to communicate with the inhabitants he took occasion now tosuggestthattheusualwaywaswhenyoucamenearahousetogotoitandtell the inhabitantswhatyouhad seenorheard and then they tellyouwhattheyhadseenbutwelaughedandsaidthatwehadhadenoughofhousesforthepresentandhadcomeherepartlytoavoidthemIn the meanwhile the wind increasing blew down the Indians birch andcreatedsuchaseathatwefoundourselvesprisonersontheislandthenearestshorewhichwas thewesternbeingperhapsamiledistantandwetookthecanoe out to prevent its drifting awayWe did not know but we should becompelled to spend the rest of the day and the night thereAt any rate theIndianwent to sleep again in the shade of his birchmy companion busiedhimselfdryinghisplantsandIrambledalongtheshorewestwardwhichwasquite stony andobstructedwith fallen bleachedordrifted trees for fourorfive rods inwidth I foundgrowingon thisbroad rockyandgravelly shorethe Salix rostrata discolor and lucidaRanunculus recurvatus PotentillaNorvegica Scutellaria laterifloraEupatoriumpurpureumAsterTradescantiMentha Canadensis Epilobium angustifolium (abundant) Lycopus sinuatusSolidago lanceolata Spiraeliga salicifolia Antennaria margaraticea PrunellaRumex Acetosella raspberries wool-grass Onoclea etc The nearest treeswere Betula papyracea and excelsa and Populus tremuloides I give thesenamesbecauseitwasmyfarthestnorthernpointOurIndiansaidthathewasadoctorandcouldtellmesomemedicinaluseforeveryplantIcouldshowhimIimmediatelytriedhimHesaidthattheinnerbarkoftheaspen(Populustremuloides)wasgoodforsoreeyesandsowithvarious other plants proving himself as good as hiswordAccording to hisaccounthehadacquiredsuchknowledgeinhisyouthfromawiseoldIndianwith whom he associated and he lamented that the present generation ofIndianshadlostagreatdealHesaidthatthecaribouwasaverygreatrunnerthattherewasnoneaboutthislakenowthoughthereusedtobemanyandpointingtothebeltofdeadtreescausedbythedamsheaddedNolikumstumpmdashwhenheseesthathescaredPointing southeasterlyover the lakeanddistant forest heobserved MegoOldtowninthreedaysIaskedhowhewouldgetovertheswampsandfallentreesOhsaidheinwinterallcoveredgoanywhereonsnowshoesrightacross lakesWhen I askedhowhewenthe said First I goKtaadnwestsidethenIgoMillinocketthenPamadumcookthenNicketowthenLincolnthen Oldtown or else he went a shorter way by the Piscataquis What awilderness walk for a man to take alone None of your half-mile swamps

noneofyourmile-widewoodsmerelyasontheskirtsofourtownswithouthotelsonlyadarkmountainoralakeforguide-boardandstationovergroundmuchofitimpassableinsummerIt remindedme of PrometheusBoundHerewas traveling of the old heroickindovertheunalteredfaceofnatureFromtheAllegashorHemlockRiverand Pongoquahem Lake across great Apmoojenegamook and leaving theNerlumskeechticookMountain on his left he takes hisway under the bear-haunted slopes of Souneunk and Ktaadn Mountains to Pamadumcook andMillinocketsinlandseas(whereoftengulls-eggsmayincreasehisstore)andsoontotheforksoftheNicketow(niasosebwealoneJosephseeingwhatour folks see) everpushing theboughsof the fir and spruceasidewithhisloadoffurscontendingdayandnightnightanddaywiththeshaggydemonvegetationtravelingthroughthemossygraveyardoftreesOrhecouldgobythat rough toothof theseaKineogreatsourceofarrowsandofspears tothe ancientswhenweapons of stonewere used Seeing and hearingmoosecaribou bears porcupines lynxes wolves and panthers Places where hemight live and die and never hear of theUnited Stateswhichmake such anoise in the worldmdashnever hear of America so called from the name of aEuropeangentlemanThereisalumberersroadcalledtheEagleLakeroadfromtheSebooistotheeast side of this lake It may seem strange that any road through such awildernessshouldbepassableeveninwinterwhenthesnowisthreeorfourfeet deep but at that season wherever lumbering operations are activelycarriedonteamsarecontinuallypassingonthesingletrackanditbecomesassmoothalmostasarailwayIamtoldthatintheAroostookcountrythesledsarerequiredbylawtobeofonewidth(fourfeet)andsleighsmustbealteredtofitthetracksothatonerunnermaygoinonerutandtheotherfollowthehorseYetitisverybadturningoutWehadforsome timeseena thunder-showercomingupfromthewestoverthewoods of the island and heard themuttering of the thunder thoughwewere in doubt whether it would reach us but now the darkness rapidlyincreasingandafreshbreezerustlingtheforestwehastilyputuptheplantswhich we had been drying and with one consent made a rush for the tentmaterialandsetaboutpitchingitAplacewasselectedandstakesandpinscutin the shortest possible time andwewerepinning it down lest it shouldbeblownawaywhenthestormsuddenlyburstoverusAswe layhuddled togetherunder the tentwhich leakedconsiderablyaboutthe sideswith our baggage at our feetwe listened to someof thegrandestthunderwhichIeverheardmdashrapidpealsroundandplumpbangbangbangin succession like artillery from some fortress in the sky and the lightningwasproportionally brilliantThe Indian said Itmust be goodpowderAll

for thebenefit of themoose andus echoing far over the concealed lakes Ithought it must be a place which the thunder loved where the lightningpracticedtokeepitshandinanditwoulddonoharmtoshatterafewpinesWhat had become of the ephemeraelig and devils-needles then Were theyprudentenoughtoseekharborbeforethestormPerhapstheirmotionsmightguidethevoyageurLookingoutIperceivedthattheviolentshowerfallingonthelakehadalmostinstantaneously flattened the wavesmdashthe commander of that fortress hadsmootheditforussomdashanditclearingoffweresolvedtostartimmediatelybeforethewindraisedthemagainGoingoutsideIsaidthatIsawcloudsstillinthesouthwestandheardthunderthereTheIndianasked if the thunderwentlound(round)saying that if itdid we should have more rain I thought that it did We embarkednevertheless andpaddled rapidlyback toward thedamsThewhite-throatedsparrowsontheshorewereaboutsingingAhte-e-ete-e-eteorelseahte-e-ete-e-ete-e-ete-e-eAttheoutletofChamberlainLakewewereovertakenbyanothergustyrain-stormwhichcompelledus to takeshelter theIndianunderhiscanoeonthebankandweranundertheedgeofthedamHoweverweweremorescaredthanwetFrommycovertIcouldseetheIndianpeepingoutfrombeneathhiscanoetoseewhathadbecomeoftherainWhenwehadtakenourrespectiveplaces thus once or twice the rain not coming down in earnest wecommencedramblingabout theneighborhood for thewindhadby this timeraised suchwaveson the lake thatwecouldnot stir andwe feared thatweshouldbeobligedtocampthereWegotanearlysupperonthedamandtriedforfishtherewhilewaitingforthetumulttosubsideThefisheswerenotonlyfewbutsmallandworthlessandtheIndiandeclaredthattherewerenogoodfishesintheStJohnswatersthatwemustwaittillwegottothePenobscotwatersAtlengthjustbeforesunsetwesetoutagainItwasawildeveningwhenwecoastedupthenorthsideofthisApmoojenegamookLakeOnethunder-stormwas justoverand thewaveswhich ithad raisedstill runningwithviolenceandanotherstormwasnowseencomingupinthesouthwestfaroverthelakebutitmightbeworseinthemorningandwewishedtogetasfaraspossibleonourwayup the lakewhilewemight Itblowedhardagainst thenorthernshoreaboutaneighthofamiledistantonourleftandtherewasjustasmuchsea as our shallowcanoewouldbearwithout our takingunusual careThatwhichwekeptoffandtowardwhichthewavesweredrivingwasasdrearyandharborlessashoreasyoucanconceiveForhalfadozenrodsinwidthitwasaperfectmazeofsubmergedtreesalldeadandbareandbleachingsomestandinghalftheiroriginalheightothersprostrateandcriss-acrossaboveor

beneath the surface andmingledwith themwere loose trees and limbs andstumpsbeating about Imagine thewharvesof the largest city in theworlddecayedandtheearthandplankingwashedawayleavingthespilesstandingin looseorderbutoftenof twice theordinaryheight andmingledwithandbeating against them the wreck of ten thousand navies all their spars andtimbers while there rises from the waters edge the densest and grimmestwildernessreadytosupplymorematerialwhentheformerfailsandyoumaygetafaintideaofthatcoastWecouldnothavelandedifwewouldwithoutthegreatestdangerofbeingswampedsoblowasitmightwemustdependoncoasting by it It was twilight too and that stormy cloud was advancingrapidlyinourrearItwasapleasantexcitementyetweweregladtoreachatlengthinthedusktheclearedshoreoftheChamberlainFarmWelandedonalowandthinlywoodedpointthereandwhilemycompanionswerepitchingthetentIranuptothehousetogetsomesugaroursixpoundsbeing gonemdashit was nowonder theywere for Polis had a sweet tooth HewouldfirstfillhisdippernearlyathirdfullofsugarandthenaddthecoffeetoitHerewasaclearingextendingback from the lake toahilltopwithsomedark-colored log buildings and a storehouse in it and half a dozen menstandinginfrontoftheprincipalhutgreedyfornewsAmongthemwasthemanwho tended the dam on theAllegash and tossed the bulletHe havingchargeof thedams and learning thatweweregoing toWebsterStream thenextdaytoldmethatsomeoftheirmenwhowerehayingatTelosLakehadshutthedamatthecanalthereinordertocatchtroutandifwewantedmorewatertotakeusthroughthecanalwemightraisethegateforhewouldliketohaveitraisedTheChamberlainFarmisnodoubtacheerfulopeninginthewoods but such was the lateness of the hour that it has left but a duskyimpressiononmymindAsIhavesaidtheinfluxoflightmerelyiscivilizingyetIfanciedthattheywalkedaboutonSundaysintheirclearingsomewhatasinaprison-yardThey were unwilling to spare more than four pounds of brown sugarmdashunlockingthestorehousetogetitmdashsincetheyonlykeptalittleforsuchcasesas thisand theycharged twentycentsapound for itwhichcertainly itwasworthtogetitupthereWhen I returned to the shore itwasquitedarkbutwehada rousing fire towarmanddryusbyandasnugapartmentbehinditTheIndianwentuptothehouse to inquireafterabrotherwhohadbeenabsenthuntingayearor twoandwhile another showerwasbeginning I gropedabout cutting spruceandarbor-vitaelig twigs for a bed I preferred the arbor-vitaelig on account of itsfragranceandspreaditparticularlythickabouttheshouldersItisremarkablewithwhatpuresatisfactionthetravelerinthesewoodswillreachhiscamping-groundontheeveofatempestuousnightlikethisasifhehadgottohisinn

androllinghimselfinhisblanketstretchhimselfonhissix-feet-by-twobedofdrippingfirtwigswithathinsheetofcottonforroofsnugasameadow-mouseinitsnestInvariablyourbestnightswerethosewhenitrainedforthenwewerenottroubledwithmosquitoesYousooncometodisregardrainonsuchexcursionsatleastinthesummeritissoeasytodryyourselfsupposingadrychangeofclothingisnottobehadYoucanmuchsoonerdryyoubysucha fireasyoucanmake in thewoodsthaninanybodyskitchenthefireplaceissomuchlargerandwoodsomuchmore abundant A shed-shaped tent will catch and reflect the heat like aYankeebakerandyoumaybedryingwhileyouaresleepingSomewhohaveleakyroofsinthetownsmayhavebeenkeptawakebutweweresoonlulledasleepbyasteadysoakingrainwhichlastedallnightTo-nighttherainnotcomingatoncewithviolencethetwigsweresoondriedbythereflectedheatWEDNESDAYJuly29WhenweawokeithaddonerainingthoughitwasstillcloudyThefirewasputoutandtheIndiansbootswhichstoodundertheeavesofthetentwerehalffullofwaterHewasmuchmoreimprovidentinsuchrespectsthaneitherofusandhehadtothankusforkeepinghispowderdryWedecidedtocrossthelakeatoncebeforebreakfastorwhilewecouldandbeforestartingItookthebearingoftheshorewhichwewishedtostrikeSSEaboutthreemilesdistant lest a sudden misty rain should conceal it when we were midwayThoughthebayinwhichwewerewasperfectlyquietandsmoothwefoundthelakealreadywideawakeoutsidebutnotdangerouslyorunpleasantlysoneverthelesswhenyougetoutononeofthoselakesinacanoelikethisyoudonot forget thatyouarecompletelyat themercyof thewindanda ficklepower it isTheplayfulwavesmayat any timebecome too rude foryou intheirsportandplayrightonoveryouWesawafewshecorwaysandafishhawk thus early and aftermuch steady paddling and dancing over the darkwavesofApmoojenegamookwefoundourselvesintheneighborhoodofthesouthernlandheardthewavesbreakingonitandturnedourthoughtswhollyto that side After coasting eastward along this shore a mile or two webreakfastedonarockypointthefirstconvenientplacethatofferedItwaswell enough thatwe crossed thus early for thewaves now ran quitehighandweshouldhavebeenobligedtogoroundsomewhatbutbeyondthispointwehadcomparativelysmoothwaterYoucancommonlygoalongonesideortheotherofalakewhenyoucannotcrossitTheIndianwas lookingat thehard-woodridgesfromtime to timeandsaidthat he would like to buy a few hundred acres somewhere about this lakeaskingouradviceItwastobuyasnearthecrossing-placeaspossible

MycompanionandIhavingaminutesdiscussiononsomepointofancienthistorywereamusedbytheattitudewhichtheIndianwhocouldnottellwhatweweretalkingaboutassumedHeconstitutedhimselfumpireandjudgingby our air and gesture he very seriously remarked from time to time youbeatorhebeatLeavingaspaciousbayanortheasterlyprolongationofChamberlainLakeonourleftweenteredthroughashortstrait intoasmall lakeacoupleofmilesovercalledon themapTelasinisbut theIndianhadnodistinctnamefor itand thence into Telos Lake which he calledPaytaywecomgomoc or Burnt-Ground Lake This curved round toward the northeast andmay have beenthreeorfourmileslongaswepaddledHehadnotbeenheresince1825HedidnotknowwhatTelosmeantthoughtitwasnotIndianHeusedthewordspokelogan(foraninletintheshorewhichlednowhere)andwhenIaskeditsmeaningsaidthattherewasnoIndianinemTherewasaclearingwithahouseandbarnonthesouthwestshoretemporarilyoccupiedbysomemenwhoweregettingthehayaswehadbeentoldalsoaclearingforapastureonahillonthewestsideofthelakeWe landedona rockypointon thenortheast side to lookat someredpines(Pinus resinosa) the first we had noticed and get some cones for our fewwhichgrowinConcorddonotbearanyTheoutletfromthelakeintotheEastBranchofthePenobscotisanartificialone and it was not very apparent where it was exactly but the lake rancurvingfarupnortheasterlyintotwonarrowvalleysorravinesasifithadforalongtimebeengropingitswaytowardthePenobscotwatersorrememberedwhen it anciently flowed therebyobservingwhere thehorizonwas lowestandfollowingthelongestoftheseweatlengthreachedthedamhavingcomeaboutadozenmilesfromthelastcampSomebodyhadleftalinesetfortroutandthejackknifewithwhichthebaithadbeencutonthedambesideitanevidence thatmanwas near and on a deserted log close by a loaf of breadbakedinaYankeebakerTheseprovedthepropertyofasolitaryhunterwhomwesoonmetandcanoeandgunandtrapswerenotfaroffHetoldusthatitwas twentymiles fartheronour route to the footofGrandLakewhereyoucouldcatchasmany troutasyouwantedand that the firsthousebelow thefootofthelakeontheEastBranchwasHuntsaboutforty-fivemilesfartherthough therewasoneaboutamileandahalfupTroutStreamsomefifteenmilesaheadbutitwasratherablindroutetoitItturnedoutthatthoughthestreamwasinourfavorwedidnotreachthenexthousetillthemorningofthethirdday after thisThenearest permanently inhabitedhousebehinduswasnowadozenmilesdistantsothattheintervalbetweenthetwonearesthousesonourroutewasaboutsixtymilesThishunterwhowasaquitesmallsunburntmanhavingalreadycarriedhis

canoeoverandbakedhisloafhadnothingsointerestingandpressingtodoastoobserveourtransitHehadbeenoutamonthormorealoneHowmuchmorewildandadventuroushislifethanthatofthehunterinConcordwoodswho gets back to his house and the mill-dam every night Yet they in thetowns who have wild oats to sow commonly sow them on cultivated andcomparatively exhausted ground And as for the rowdy world in the largecities so little enterprisehas it that it never adventures in thisdirectionbutlike vermin clubs together in alleys and drinking-saloons its highestaccomplishmentperchance to runbesidea fire-engineand throwbrickbatsBut the former is comparatively an independent and successfulmangettinghislivinginawaythathelikeswithoutdisturbinghishumanneighborsHowmuchmorerespectablealsoisthelifeofthesolitarypioneerorsettlerintheseoranywoodsmdashhavingrealdifficultiesnotofhisowncreationdrawinghissubsistencedirectly fromnaturemdashthan thatof thehelplessmultitudes in thetownswhodependongratifyingtheextremelyartificialwantsofsocietyandarethrownoutofemploymentbyhardtimesHere for the first time we found the raspberries really plentymdashthat is onpassing theheight of landbetween theAllegash and theEastBranchof thePenobscotthesamewastrueoftheblueberriesTelosLaketheheadoftheStJohnonthissideandWebsterPondtheheadoftheEastBranchofthePenobscotareonlyaboutamileapartandtheyareconnectedby a ravine inwhichbut little diggingwas required tomake thewater of the former which is the highest flow into the latter This canalwhichissomethinglessthanamilelongandaboutfourrodswidewasmadeafewyearsbeforemyfirstvisittoMaineSincethenthelumberoftheupperAllegash and its lakes has been run down the Penobscot that is up theAllegash which here consists principally of a chain of large and stagnantlakes whose thoroughfares or river-links have been made nearly equallystagnantbydammingandthendownthePenobscotTherushofthewaterhasproducedsuchchanges in thecanal that ithasnowtheappearanceofaveryrapidmountain stream flowing througha ravine andyouwouldnot suspectthatanydigginghadbeenrequired topersuade thewatersof theSt John toflow into thePenobscothere Itwassowinding thatonecouldseebut littlewaydownItisstatedbySpringerinhisForestLifethatthecauseofthiscanalbeingdugwasthisaccordingtothetreatyof1842withGreatBritainitwasagreedthatallthetimberrundowntheStJohnwhichrisesinMainewhenwithintheProvinceofNewBrunswickshallbedealtwithasifitweretheproduceofthesaidProvincewhichwasthoughtbyoursidetomeanthatitshouldbefreefromtaxationImmediatelytheProvincewishingtogetsomethingoutoftheYankeesleviedadutyonallthetimberthatpasseddowntheStJohnbut

to satisfy its own subjects made a correspondingdiscount on the stumpagecharged thosehauling timber fromthecrown landsThe resultwas that theYankeesmadetheStJohnruntheotherwayordownthePenobscotsothattheProvincelostbothitsdutyanditswaterwhiletheYankeesbeinggreatlyenrichedhadreasontothankitforthesuggestionItiswonderfulhowwellwateredthiscountryisAsyoupaddleacrossalakebays will be pointed out to you by following up which and perhaps thetributarystreamwhichemptiesinyoumayafterashortportageorpossiblyat some seasons none at all get into another riverwhich empties far awayfromtheoneyouareonGenerallyyoumaygoinanydirectioninacanoebymakingfrequentbutnotverylongportagesYouareonlyrealizingoncemorewhatallnaturedistinctlyremembersherefornodoubtthewatersflowedthusinaformergeologicalperiodandinsteadofbeingalakecountry itwasanarchipelago It seems as if the more youthful and impressible streams canhardly resist the numerous invitations and temptations to leave their nativebedsandrundowntheirneighborschannelsYourcarriesareoftenoverhalf-submergedgroundon thedrychannelsofaformerperiod IncarryingfromonerivertoanotherIdidnotgooversuchhighandrockygroundasingoingabout thefallsof thesameriverFor in theformercaseIwasonce lost inaswampasIhaverelatedandagainfoundanartificialcanalwhichappearedtobenaturalI remember once dreaming of pushing a canoe up the rivers ofMaine andthatwhenIhadgotsohighthatthechannelsweredryIkeptonthroughtheravines and gorges nearly aswell as before by pushing a little harder andnowitseemedtomethatmydreamwaspartiallyrealizedWhereverthereisachannelforwaterthereisaroadforthecanoeThepilotofthesteamerwhichranfromOldtownupthePenobscotin1854toldmethatshe drew only fourteen inches and would run easily in two feet of waterthoughtheydidnotliketoItissaidthatsomeWesternsteamerscanrunonaheavy dewwhencewe can imaginewhat a canoemay doMontresorwhowassentfromQuebecby theEnglishabout1760toexplore theroute to theKennebecoverwhichArnoldafterwardpassedsupplied thePenobscotnearitssourcewithwaterbyopeningthebeaver-damsandhesaysThisisoftendone He afterward states that the Governor of Canada had forbidden tomolestthebeaverabouttheoutletoftheKennebecfromMooseheadLakeonaccount of the service which their dams did by raising the water fornavigationThiscanalsocalledwasaconsiderableandextremelyrapidandrockyriverTheIndiandecidedthattherewaswaterenoughinitwithoutraisingthedamwhichwouldonlymakeitmoreviolentandthathewouldrundownitalonewhilewecarried thegreater part of thebaggageOurprovisionbeing about

halfconsumedtherewasthelessleftinthecanoeWehadthrownawaythepork-keg and wrapt its contents in birch bark which is the unequaledwrapping-paperofthewoodsFollowing amoist trail through the forest we reached the head ofWebsterPondabout thesametimewith theIndiannotwithstandingthevelocitywithwhichhemovedourroutebeingthemostdirectTheIndiannameofWebsterStreamofwhichthispondisthesourceisaccordingtohimMadunkchunki eHeight ofLand and of the pondMadunkchunk-gamooc orHeight ofLandPondThelatterwastwoorthreemileslongWepassednearapineonitsshorewhichhadbeensplinteredbylightningperhapsthedaybeforeThiswasthefirstproperEastBranchPenobscotwaterthatwecametoAt the outlet ofWebster Lake was another dam at which we stopped andpickedraspberrieswhiletheIndianwentdownthestreamahalf-milethroughtheforest toseewhathehadgot tocontendwithTherewasadeserted logcamphere apparentlyused thepreviouswinterwith its hovelorbarn forcattle In the hut was a large fir twig bed raised two feet from the flooroccupyingalargepartofthesingleapartmentalongnarrowtableagainstthewallwithastoutlogbenchbeforeitandabovethetableasmallwindowtheonlyonetherewaswhichadmittedafeeblelightItwasasimpleandstrongfort erected against the cold and suggestedwhat valiant trencherwork hadbeendonethereIdiscoveredoneortwocuriouswoodentrapswhichhadnotbeenusedforalongtimeinthewoodsnearbyTheprincipalpartconsistedofalongandslenderpoleWegot our dinner on the shore on the upper side of the damAsweweresitting by our fire concealed by the earth bank of the dam a long line ofsheldrakehalf-growncamewaddlingover it from thewaterbelowpassingwithin about a rod of us so thatwe could almost have caught them in ourhandsTheywereveryabundantonallthestreamsandlakeswhichwevisitedandeverytwoorthreehourstheywouldrushawayinalongstringoverthewaterbeforeustwentytofiftyofthematoncerarelyeverflyingbutrunningwith great rapidity up or down the stream even in the midst of the mostviolentrapidsandapparentlyasfastupasdownorelsecrossingdiagonallytheoldasitappearedbehindanddrivingthemandflyingtothefrontfromtime to time as if to direct themWe also saw many small black dipperswhichbehavedinasimilarmannerandonceortwiceafewblackducksAnIndianatOldtownhadtoldusthatweshouldbeobligedtocarrytenmilesbetweenTelosLakeon theStJohnandSecondLakeon theEastBranchofthePenobscot but the lumbererswhomwemet assuredus that therewouldnotbemorethanamileofcarryItturnedoutthattheIndianwhohadlatelybeenoverthisroutewasnearestrightasfaraswewereconcernedHoweverifoneofuscouldhaveassistedtheIndianinmanagingthecanoeintherapids

wemight have run the greater part of the way but as he was alone in themanagementofthecanoeinsuchplaceswewereobligedtowalkthegreaterpartIdidnotfeelquitereadytotrysuchanexperimentonWebsterStreamwhich has so bad a reputation According to my observation a batteauproperlymanned shoots rapids as amatterof coursewhicha single IndianwithacanoecarriesroundMy companion and I carried a good part of the baggage on our shoulderswhiletheIndiantookthatwhichwouldbeleast injuredbywet inthecanoeWedidnotknowwhenweshouldseehimagainforhehadnotbeenthiswaysincethecanalwascutnorformorethanthirtyyearsHeagreedtostopwhenhegottosmoothwatercomeupandfindourpathifhecouldandhallooforusandafterwaitingareasonabletimegoonandtryagainmdashandweweretolookoutinlikemannerforhimHecommencedbyrunningthroughthesluicewayandoverthedamasusualstandingupinhistossingcanoeandwassoonoutofsightbehindapointinawildgorgeThisWebsterStream iswell known to lumbermen as a difficultone It is exceedingly rapid and rocky and also shallow and can hardly beconsiderednavigableunlessthatmaymeanthatwhatislaunchedinitissuretobecarriedswiftlydownitthoughitmaybedashedtopiecesbythewayItis somewhat like navigating a thunder-spoutWith commonly an irresistibleforceurgingyouonyouhavegot tochooseyourowncourseeachmomentbetween the rocks and shallows and to get into itmoving forward alwayswiththeutmostpossiblemoderationandoftenholdingonifyoucanthatyoumayinspecttherapidsbeforeyouBy the Indians direction we took an old path on the south side whichappearedtokeepdownthestreamthoughataconsiderabledistancefromitcuttingoffbendsperhapstoSecondLakehavingfirsttakenthecoursefromthemapwith a compasswhichwas northeasterly for safety It was awildwood-pathwithafewtracksofoxenwhichhadbeendrivenoveritprobablyto someold campclearing forpasturagemingledwith the tracksofmoosewhichhadlatelyuseditWekeptonsteadilyforaboutanhourwithoutputtingdownourpacksoccasionallywindingaroundorclimbingoverafallen treefor themostpart faroutof sight andhearingof the river till afterwalkingaboutthreemilesweweregladtofindthatthepathcametotheriveragainatanoldcampgroundwheretherewasasmallopeningintheforestatwhichwepausedSwiftlyastheshallowandrockyriverranhereacontinuousrapidwithdancingwavesIsawasIsatontheshorea longstringofsheldrakeswhichsomethingscared runup theopposite sideof thestreambymewiththesameeasethattheycommonlydiddownitjusttouchingthesurfaceofthewavesandgettinganimpulsefromthemastheyflowedfromunderthembuttheysooncamebackdrivenbytheIndianwhohadfallenalittlebehinduson

accountofthewindingsHeshotroundapointjustaboveandcametolandbyuswithconsiderablewaterinhiscanoeHehadfounditashesaidverystrongwaterandhadbeenobligedtolandoncebeforetoemptyoutwhathehadtakeninHecomplainedthatitstrainedhimtopaddlesohardinordertokeephis canoe straight in its course havingnoone in thebows to aidhimand shallow as itwas said that itwould be no joke to upset there for theforceofthewaterwassuchthathehadasliefIwouldstrikehimovertheheadwithapaddleashavethatwaterstrikehimSeeinghimcomeoutofthatgapwasasifyoushouldpourwaterdownaninclinedandzigzagtroughthendropanutshellintoitandtakingashortcuttothebottomgetthereintimetoseeitcomeoutnotwithstandingtherushandtumultrightsideupandonlypartlyfullofwaterAfteramomentsbreathing-spacewhileIheldhiscanoehewassoonoutofsightagainaroundanotherbendandweshoulderingourpacksresumedourcourseWedidnotatoncefallintoourpathagainbutmadeourwaywithdifficultyalongtheedgeoftherivertillatlengthstrikinginlandthroughtheforestwerecovered itBeforegoing amileweheard the Indian calling tousHehadcome up through the woods and along the path to find us having reachedsufficientlysmoothwatertowarranthistakingusinTheshorewasaboutonefourthofamiledistantthroughadensedarkforestandasheledusbacktoitwindingrapidlyabouttotherightandleftIhadthecuriositytolookdowncarefully and found that hewas followinghis steps backward I could onlyoccasionallyperceivehis trail inthemossandyethedidnotappeartolookdownnorhesitateaninstantbutledusoutexactlytohiscanoeThissurprisedmeforwithoutacompassor thesightornoiseof theriver toguideuswecould not have kept our coursemanyminutes and could have retraced ourstepsbutashortdistancewithagreatdealofpainsandveryslowlyusingalaboriouscircumspectionButitwasevidentthathecouldgobackthroughtheforestwhereverhehadbeenduringthedayAfterthisroughwalkinginthedarkwoodsitwasanagreeablechangetoglidedowntherapidriverinthecanoeoncemoreThisriverwhichwasaboutthesizeofourAssabet(inConcord)thoughstillveryswiftwasalmostperfectlysmoothhereandshowedaveryvisibledeclivitya regularly inclinedplaneforseveralmileslikeamirrorsetalittleaslantonwhichwecoasteddownThis very obvious regular descent particularly plain when I regarded thewater-line against the shoresmade a singular impression onmewhich theswiftnessofourmotionprobablyenhancedso thatweseemedtobeglidingdown a much steeper declivity than we were and that we could not saveourselves from rapids and falls if we should suddenly come to them Mycompanion did not perceive this slope but I have a surveyors eyes and I

satisfiedmyself that itwas no ocular illusionYou could tell at a glance onapproaching such a river which way the water flowed though you mightperceivenomotionIobservedtheangleatwhichalevellinewouldstrikethesurfaceandcalculatedtheamountoffall inarodwhichdidnotneedtoberemarkablygreattoproducethiseffectItwasveryexhilaratingandtheperfectionoftravelingquiteunlikefloatingonourdeadConcordRiverthecoastingdownthisinclinedmirrorwhichwasnow and then gently winding down a mountain indeed between twoevergreenforestsedgedwithloftydeadwhitepinessometimesslantedhalf-way over the stream and destined soon to bridge it I saw some monstersthere nearly destitute of branches and scarcely diminishing in diameter foreightyorninetyfeetAswethussweptalongourIndianrepeatedinadeliberateanddrawlingtonethewordsDanielWebstergreatlawyerapparentlyremindedofhimbythenameof the stream andhe describedhis calling on himonce inBoston atwhathesupposedwashisboarding-houseHehadnobusinesswithhimbutmerelywenttopayhisrespectsasweshouldsayInanswertoourquestionshedescribedhispersonwellenoughItwasonthedayafterWebsterdeliveredhisBunkerHillorationwhichIbelievePolisheardThefirsttimehecalledhewaited till he was tired without seeing him and then went away The nexttimehesawhimgobythedooroftheroominwhichhewaswaitingseveraltimes in his shirt-sleeves without noticing him He thought that if he hadcometoseeIndianstheywouldnothavetreatedhimsoAtlengthafterverylongdelayhecameinwalkedtowardhimandaskedinaloudvoicegrufflyWhatdoyouwantandhethinkingatfirstbythemotionofhishandthathewasgoingtostrikehimsaidtohimselfYoudbettertakecareifyoutrythatIshallknowwhattodoHedidnotlikehimanddeclaredthatallhesaidwas not worth talk about a musquash We suggested that probably MrWebsterwasverybusyandhadagreatmanyvisitorsjustthenComing to falls and rapidsoureasyprogresswas suddenly terminatedTheIndianwentalongshoretoinspectthewaterwhileweclimbedovertherockspickingberriesThepeculiargrowthofblueberriesonthetopsoflargerocksheremade the impression of high land and indeed this was the Height-of-LandStreamWhentheIndiancamebackheremarkedYougottowalkverstrongwaterSo takingouthiscanoehe launcheditagainbelowthefallsandwassoonoutofsightAtsuchtimeshewouldstepintothecanoetakeuphispaddleandwithanairofmysterystartofflookingfardown-streamandkeeping his own counsel as if absorbing all the intelligence of forest andstream into himself but I sometimes detected a little fun in his facewhichcould yield tomy sympathetic smile for hewas thoroughly good-humoredWemeanwhile scrambledalong the shorewithourpackswithout anypath

ThiswasthelastofourboatingforthedayTheprevailing rockherewas akindof slate standingon its edges andmycompanionwhowasrecently fromCalifornia thought itexactly like that inwhichthegoldisfoundandsaidthatifhehadhadapanhewouldhavelikedtowashalittleofthesandhereTheIndiannowgotalongmuchfasterthanweandwaitedforusfromtimetotime I found here the only cool spring that I drank at anywhere on thisexcursion a little water filling a hollow in the sandy bank It was a quitememorableevent anddue to theelevationof thecountry forwherever elsewehadbeenthewaterintheriversandthestreamsemptyinginwasdeadandwarmcomparedwiththatofamountainousregionItwasverybadwalkingalongtheshoreoverfallenanddriftedtreesandbushesandrocksfromtimetotimeswingingourselvesroundoverthewaterorelsetakingtoagravelbarorgoinginlandAtoneplacetheIndianbeingaheadIwasobligedtotakeoffallmyclothesinordertofordasmallbutdeepstreamemptyinginwhilemycompanionwhowasinlandfoundarudebridgehighupinthewoodsandIsawnomoreofhimforsometimeIsawthereveryfreshmoosetracksfoundanewgoldenrodtome(perhapsSolidagothyrsoidea)andIpassedonewhitepine logwhichhad lodged in the forestnear theedgeof thestreamwhichwasquitefivefeetindiameteratthebuttProbablyitssizedetaineditShortlyafterthisIovertooktheIndianattheedgeofsomeburntlandwhichextended three or four miles at least beginning about three miles aboveSecondLakewhichwewereexpectingtoreachthatnightandwhichisabouttenmilesfromTelosLakeThisburntregionwasstillmorerockythanbeforebut though comparatively open we could not yet see the lake Not havingseenmycompanionforsometimeIclimbedwiththeIndianasingularhighrockontheedgeoftheriverforminganarrowridgeonlyafootortwowideattopinordertolookforhimandaftercallingmanytimesIatlengthheardhimanswerfromaconsiderabledistanceinlandhehavingtakenatrailwhichledofffromtheriverperhapsdirectlytothelakeandwasnowinsearchoftheriveragainSeeingamuchhigherrockof thesamecharacteraboutonethirdofamilefarthereastordown-streamIproceededtowarditthroughtheburnt land inorder to look for the lake from its summit supposing that theIndianwouldkeepdownthestreaminhiscanoeandhallooingall thewhilethat my companion might join me on the way Before we came together Inoticed where a moose which possibly I had scared by my shouting hadapparentlyjustrunalongalargerottentrunkofapinewhichmadeabridgethirtyorfortyfeetlongoverahollowasconvenientforhimasformeThetrackswereaslargeasthoseofanoxbutanoxcouldnothavecrossedthereThisburntlandwasanexceedinglywildanddesolateregionJudgingbytheweedsandsprouts itappearedtohavebeenburntabout twoyearsbeforeIt

wascoveredwithcharred trunkseitherprostrateorstandingwhichcrockedourclothesandhandsandwecouldnoteasilyhavedistinguishedabeartherebyhiscolorGreatshellsoftreessometimesunburntwithoutorburntononesideonlybutblackwithinstoodtwentyorfortyfeethighThefirehadrunupinsideasinachimneyleavingthesap-woodSometimeswecrossedarockyravine fifty feetwide on a fallen trunk and therewere great fields of fire-weed (Epilobium angustifolium) on all sides themost extensive that I eversaw which presented great masses of pink Intermixed with these wereblueberryandraspberrybushesHavingcrosseda second rocky ridge like the firstwhen Iwasbeginning toascend the third the Indian whom I had left on the shore some fifty rodsbehind beckoned tome to come to him but Imade sign that Iwould firstascend the highest rock before me whence I expected to see the lakeMycompanionaccompaniedmetothetopThiswasformedjust liketheothersBeingstruckwiththeperfectparallelismofthesesingularrockhillshowevermuchonemightbeinadvanceofanotherItookoutmycompassandfoundthat they laynorthwest and southeast the rockbeingon its edge and sharpedges theywereThisone to speak frommemorywasperhaps a thirdof amile in length but quite narrow rising gradually from the northwest to theheightofabouteightyfeetbutsteeponthesoutheastendThesouthwestsidewas as steep as anordinary roof or aswecould safely climb thenortheastwasanabruptprecipicefromwhichyoucouldjumpcleantothebottomnearwhichtheriverflowedwhiletheleveltopoftheridgeonwhichyouwalkedalongwasonlyfromonetothreeorfourfeetinwidthForarudeillustrationtakethehalfofapearcutintwolengthwiselayitonitsflatsidethestemtothenorthwestandthenhalveitverticallyinthedirectionofitslengthkeepingthesouthwesthalfSuchwasthegeneralformThere was a remarkable series of these great rock-waves revealed by theburning breakers as it were No wonder that the river that found its waythroughthemwasrapidandobstructedbyfallsNodoubttheabsenceofsoilon these rocks or its drynesswhere therewas any caused this tobe averythoroughburningWecouldsee the lakeover thewoods twoor threemilesaheadandthattherivermadeanabruptturnsouthwardaroundthenorthwestendofthecliffonwhichwestoodoralittleaboveussothatwehadcutoffabend and that therewas an important fall in it a short distance belowus IcouldseethecanoeahundredrodsbehindbutnowontheoppositeshoreandsupposedthattheIndianhadconcludedtotakeoutandcarryroundsomebadrapidsonthatsideandthatthatmightbewhathehadbeckonedtomeforbutafterwaiting awhile I could still seenothingof him and I observed tomycompanion that Iwonderedwherehewas thoughIbegantosuspect thathehadgoneinlandtolookforthelakefromsomehilltoponthatsideaswehaddoneThisprovedtobethecaseforafterIhadstartedtoreturntothecanoeI

heardafainthallooanddescriedhimonthetopofadistantrockyhillonthatsideButas aftera long timehadelapsed I still sawhiscanoe in the sameplaceandhehadnot returned to itandappeared innohurry todosoandmoreoverasIrememberedthathehadpreviouslybeckonedtomeIthoughtthat theremightbe somethingmore todelayhim than Iknewandbegan toreturn northwest along the ridge toward the angle in the river MycompanionwhohadjustbeenseparatedfromusandhadevencontemplatedthenecessityofcampingalonewishingtohusbandhisstepsandyettokeepwithusinquiredwhereIwasgoingtowhichIansweredthatIwasgoingfarenoughbacktocommunicatewiththeIndianandthatthenIthoughtwehadbettergoalongtheshoretogetherandkeephiminsightWhenwereached theshore the Indianappeared fromout thewoodson theopposite side but on account of the roar of the water it was difficult tocommunicatewithhimHekeptalongtheshorewestwardtohiscanoewhilewe stopped at the angle where the stream turned southward around theprecipiceIagainsaidtomycompanionthatwewouldkeepalongtheshoreand keep the Indian in sightWe started to do so being close together theIndian behind us having launched his canoe again but just then I saw thelatterwhohadcrossedtooursidefortyorfiftyrodsbehindbeckoningtomeandIcalledtomycompanionwhohadjustdisappearedbehindlargerocksatthepointoftheprecipicethreeorfourrodsbeforemeonhiswaydownthestreamthatIwasgoingtohelptheIndianamomentIdidsomdashhelpedgetthecanoeoverafalllyingwithmybreastoverarockandholdingoneendwhilehe received it belowmdashandwithin tenor fifteenminutes atmost IwasbackagainatthepointwheretheriverturnedsouthwardinordertocatchupwithmycompanionwhilePolisglideddowntheriveraloneparallelwithmeButtomy surprisewhen I rounded the precipice though the shorewas bare oftreeswithoutrocksforaquarterofamileatleastmycompanionwasnottobe seen It was as if he had sunk into the earth This was the moreunaccountable to me because I knew that his feet were since our swampwalkvery sore and thathewished tokeepwith theparty andbesides thiswas very bad walking climbing over or about the rocks I hastened alonghallooing and searching for him thinking he might be concealed behind arockyetdoubtingifhehadnottakentheothersideoftheprecipicebuttheIndianhadgotalongstillfasterinhiscanoetillhewasarrestedbythefallsaboutaquarterofamilebelowHethenlandedandsaidthatwecouldgonofartherthatnightThesunwassettingandonaccountoffallsandrapidsweshouldbeobligedtoleavethisriverandcarryagoodwayintoanotherfarthereastThefirstthingthenwastofindmycompanionforIwasnowverymuchalarmedabouthimandIsenttheIndianalongtheshoredown-streamwhichbegan to be covered with unburnt wood again just below the falls while Isearched backward about the precipice which we had passed The Indian

showed some unwillingness to exert himself complaining that hewas verytired in consequence of his dayswork that it had strained him verymuchgettingdownsomanyrapidsalonebuthewentoffcallingsomewhatlikeanowlIrememberedthatmycompanionwasnear-sightedandIfearedthathehadeitherfallenfromtheprecipiceorfaintedandsunkdownamidtherocksbeneath it I shouted and searched above and below this precipice in thetwilight till I could not see expecting nothing less than to find his bodybeneathitForhalfanhourIanticipatedandbelievedonlytheworstIthoughtwhatIshoulddothenextdayifIdidnotfindhimwhatIcoulddoinsuchawildernessandhowhisrelativeswouldfeelifIshouldreturnwithouthimIfelt that if he were really lost away from the river there it would be adesperateundertakingtofindhimandwhereweretheywhocouldhelpyouWhat would it be to raise the country where there were only two or threecampstwentyorthirtymilesapartandnoroadandperhapsnobodyathomeYetwemusttrytheharderthelesstheprospectofsuccessIrusheddownfromthisprecipicetothecanoeinordertofiretheIndiansgunbutfoundthatmycompanionhadthecapsIwasstillthinkingofgettingitoffwhentheIndianreturnedHehadnotfoundhimbuthesaidthathehadseenhistracksonceortwicealongtheshoreThisencouragedmeverymuchHeobjectedtofiringthegunsayingthatifmycompanionhearditwhichwasnotlikelyonaccountoftheroarofthestreamitwouldtempthimtocometowardusandhemightbreakhisneckinthedarkForthesamereasonwerefrainedfromlightingafireonthehighestrockIproposedthatweshouldbothkeepdownthestreamtothelakeorthatIshouldgoatanyratebuttheIndiansaidNousecantdoanythingin thedarkcomemorning thenwefind emNoharmmdashhemakeemcampNobadanimalsherenogristlybearssuchasinCalifornia where hes beenmdashwarm nightmdashhe well off as you and I IconsideredthatifhewaswellhecoulddowithoutusHehadjustlivedeightyearsinCaliforniaandhadplentyofexperiencewithwildbeastsandwildermenwaspeculiarly accustomed tomake journeysof great length but if heweresickordeadhewasnearwherewewereThedarknessinthewoodswasby this so thick that it alonedecided thequestionWemustcampwherewewereIknewthathehadhisknapsackwithblanketsandmatchesandifwellwouldfarenoworsethanweexceptthathewouldhavenosuppernorsocietyThis side of the river being so encumbered with rocks we crossed to theeasternorsmoothershoreandproceededtocamptherewithin twoor threerods of the falls We pitched no tent but lay on the sand putting a fewhandfulsofgrass and twigsunderus therebeingnoevergreenat handForfuelwehadsomeofthecharredstumpsOurvariousbagsofprovisionshadgotquitewetintherapidsandIarrangedthemaboutthefiretodryThefallclosebywastheprincipaloneonthisstreamanditshooktheearthunderusIt was a cool because dewy night the more so probably owing to the

nearness of the falls The Indian complained a good deal and thoughtafterwardthathegotacoldtherewhichoccasionedamoreseriousillnessWewerenotmuch troubledbymosquitoesat any rate I layawakeagooddealfrom anxiety but unaccountably to myself was at length comparatively ateaserespectinghimAtfirstIhadapprehendedtheworstbutnowIhadlittledoubtbutthatIshouldfindhiminthemorningFromtimetotimeIfanciedthat I heardhisvoice calling through the roarof the falls from theoppositeside of the river but it is doubtful if we could have heard him across thestream there Sometimes I doubted whether the Indian had really seen histracks sincehemanifestedanunwillingness tomakemuchofa search andthenmyanxietyreturnedIt was the most wild and desolate region we had camped in where ifanywhere one might expect to meet with befitting inhabitants but I heardonlythesqueakofanighthawkflittingoverThemooninherfirstquarterintheforepartofthenightsettingoverthebarerockyhillsgarnishedwithtallcharredandhollowstumpsorshellsoftreesservedtorevealthedesolationTHURSDAYJuly30I aroused the Indian early this morning to go in search of our companionexpecting to find him within a mile or two farther down the stream TheIndianwantedhisbreakfastfirstbutIremindedhimthatmycompanionhadhadneitherbreakfastnorsupperWewereobligedfirsttocarryourcanoeandbaggageoverintoanotherstreamthemainEastBranchaboutthreefourthsofamiledistant forWebsterStreamwasno farthernavigableWewent twiceover this carry and the dewy bushes wet us through like water up to themiddle I hallooed in a high key from time to time though I had littleexpectationthatIcouldbeheardovertheroaroftherapidsandmoreoverwewerenecessarilyontheoppositesideofthestreamtohimIngoingoverthisportage the last time the Indianwhowas beforemewith the canoe on hisheadstumbledandfellheavilyonceandlayforamomentsilentasifinpainIhastilysteppedforwardtohelphimaskingifhewasmuchhurtbutafteramomentspausewithoutreplyinghesprangupandwentforwardHewasallthewaysubjecttotaciturnfitsbuttheywereharmlessonesWe had launched our canoe and gone but littleway down theEastBranchwhenIheardanansweringshoutfrommycompanionandsoonaftersawhimstandingonapointwheretherewasaclearingaquarterofamilebelowandthesmokeofhisfirewasrisingnearbyBeforeIsawhimInaturallyshoutedagain and again but the Indian curtly remarked Hehears you as if oncewas enough It was just below the mouth of Webster Stream When wearrived he was smoking his pipe and said that he had passed a prettycomfortablenightthoughitwasrathercoldonaccountofthedewIt appeared that when we stood together the previous evening and I was

shoutingtotheIndianacrosstheriverhebeingnear-sightedhadnotseentheIndiannorhiscanoeandwhenIwentbacktotheIndiansassistancedidnotseewhichwayIwentandsupposedthatwewerebelowandnotabovehimandsomakinghaste tocatchupheranawayfromusHavingreached thisclearingamileormorebelowourcampthenightovertookhimandhemadeafireinalittlehollowandlaydownbyitinhisblanketstillthinkingthatwewereaheadofhimHethoughtitlikelythathehadheardtheIndiancalloncetheeveningbeforebutmistookitforanowlHehadseenonebotanicalraritybefore itwasdarkmdashpurewhiteEpilobiumangustifoliumamidst the fieldsofpink ones in the burnt lands He had already stuck up the remnant of alumberersshirt foundonthepointonapolebythewatersideforasignalandattachedanotetoittoinformusthathehadgoneontothelakeandthatifhedidnotfindustherehewouldbebackinacoupleofhoursIfhehadnotfoundussoonhehadsomethoughtsofgoingback insearchof thesolitaryhunterwhomwehadmetatTelosLaketenmilesbehindandifsuccessfulhirehimtotakehimtoBangorButifthishunterhadmovedasfastaswehewouldhavebeentwentymilesoffbythistimeandwhocouldguessinwhatdirectionItwouldhavebeenlikelookingforaneedleinahaymowtosearchforhimin thesewoodsHehadbeenconsideringhowlonghecould liveonberriesaloneWesubstitutedforhisnoteacardcontainingournamesanddestinationandthedateofourvisitwhichPolisneatly inclosed in apieceofbirchbark tokeepitdryThishasprobablybeenreadbysomehunterorexplorererethisWeallhadgoodappetitesforthebreakfastwhichwemadehastetocookhereand then having partially dried our clothes we glided swiftly down thewindingstreamtowardSecondLakeAs the shores became flatter with frequent gravel and sand-bars and thestreammorewindinginthelowerlandnearthelakeelmsandashtreesmadetheirappearancealsothewildyellowlily(LiliumCanadense)someofwhosebulbsIcollectedforasoupOnsomeridgestheburntlandextendedasfarasthe lakeThiswas a very beautiful lake two or threemiles longwith highmountainsonthesouthwestsidethe(asourIndiansaid)Nerlumskeechticooki e Deadwater Mountain It appears to be the same called CarbuncleMountainonthemapAccordingtoPolisitextendsinseparateelevationsallalong this and thenext lakewhich ismuch largerThe lake too I think iscalledbythesamenameorperhapswiththeadditionofgamocormoocThemorningwasabrightoneandperfectlystillandserenethelakeassmoothasglasswemaking theonly ripple aswepaddled into itThedarkmountainsabout itwere seen through aglaucousmist and thebrilliantwhite stemsofcanoebirchesmingledwiththeotherwoodsarounditThewoodthrushsangon the distant shore and the laugh of some loons sporting in a concealed

westernbayasif inspiredbythemorningcamedistinctoverthelaketousandwhatwasmoreremarkabletheechowhichranroundthelakewasmuchlouderthantheoriginalnoteprobablybecausetheloonbeinginaregularlycurvingbayunderthemountainwewereexactlyinthefocusofmanyechoesthesoundbeingreflectedlikelightfromaconcavemirrorThebeautyofthescenemayhavebeenenhancedtooureyesbythefactthatwehadjustcometogether again after a night of some anxiety This reminded me of theAmbejijis Lake on theWestBranchwhich I crossed inmy first coming toMaine Having paddled down three quarters of the lake we came to astandstillwhilemycompanionletdownforfishAwhite(orwhitish)gullsaton a rock which rose above the surface in mid-lake not far off quite inharmonywiththesceneandaswerestedthereinthewarmsunweheardoneloudcrushingorcracklingsoundfromtheforestfortyorfiftyrodsdistantasof a stick broken by the foot of some large animal Even this was aninterestingincidentthereInthemidstofourdreamsofgiantlaketrouteventhensupposedtobenibblingourfishermendrewupadiminutiveredperchandwetookupourpaddlesagaininhasteItwas not apparentwhere the outlet of this lakewas andwhile the IndianthoughtitwasinonedirectionIthoughtitwasinanotherHesaidIbetyoufour-penceitistherebuthestillheldoninmydirectionwhichprovedtobethe right oneAswewere approaching the outlet it being still early in theforenoonhesuddenlyexclaimedMoosemooseandtoldustobestillHeputacaponhisgunandstandingupinthesternrapidlypushedthecanoestraighttowardtheshoreandthemooseItwasacowmooseaboutthirtyrodsoffstandinginthewaterbythesideoftheoutletpartlybehindsomefallentimberandbushesandat thatdistanceshedidnot lookvery largeShewasflapping her large ears and from time to time poking off the flieswith hernose from somepart of her body She did not appearmuch alarmed by ourneighborhoodonlyoccasionallyturnedherheadandlookedstraightatusandthengaveherattentiontothefliesagainAsweapproachednearershegotoutofthewaterstoodhigherandregardedusmoresuspiciouslyPolispushedthecanoe steadily forward in the shallowwater and I for amoment forgot themooseinattendingtosomeprettyrose-coloredPolygonumsjustrisingabovethesurfacebutthecanoesoongroundedinthemudeightortenrodsdistantfrom the moose and the Indian seized his gun and prepared to fire Afterstandingstillamomentsheturnedslowlyasusualsoastoexposehersideandhe improved thismoment to fireoverourheadsShe thereuponmovedoff eight or ten rods at a moderate pace across a shallow bay to an oldstanding-placeofhersbehindsomefallenredmaplesontheoppositeshoreand there she stood still again a dozen or fourteen rods from us while theIndian hastily loaded and fired twice at her without her moving MycompanionwhopassedhimhiscapsandbulletssaidthatPoliswasasexcited

asaboyoffifteen thathishandtrembledandheonceputhis ramrodbackupside down This was remarkable for so experienced a hunter Perhaps hewasanxioustomakeagoodshotbeforeusThewhitehunterhadtoldmethatthe Indianswere not good shots because theywere excited though he saidthatwehadgotagoodhunterwithusTheIndiannowpushedquicklyandquietlybackandalongdistanceroundinorder to get into the outletmdashfor he had fired over the neck of a peninsulabetween itand the lakemdashtillweapproached theplacewhere themoosehadstoodwhenheexclaimedSheisagonerandwassurprisedthatwedidnotseeherassoonashedidThere tobesureshe layperfectlydeadwithhertonguehangingoutjustwhereshehadstoodtoreceivethelastshotslookingunexpectedlylargeandhorse-likeandwesawwherethebulletshadscarredthetreesUsingatapeIfoundthatthemoosemeasuredjustsixfeetfromtheshouldertothetipofthehoofandwaseightfeetlongasshelaySomeportionsofthebody for a foot in diameterwere almost coveredwith flies apparently thecommonflyofourwoodswithadarkspotonthewingandnottheverylargeones which occasionally pursued us in midstream though both are calledmoose-fliesPolispreparingtoskinthemooseaskedmetohelphimfindastoneonwhichtosharpenhislargeknifeItbeingallaflatalluvialgroundwherethemoosehadfallencoveredwithredmaplesetcthiswasnoeasymatterwesearchedfarandwidealongtimetillatlengthIfoundaflatkindofslate-stoneandsoon after he returnedwith a similar one onwhichhe soonmadehis knifeverysharpWhilehewasskinningthemooseIproceededtoascertainwhatkindoffishesweretobefoundinthesluggishandmuddyoutletThegreatestdifficultywastofindapoleItwasalmostimpossibletofindaslenderstraightpoletenortwelvefeetlonginthosewoodsYoumightsearchhalfanhourinvainTheyarecommonlysprucearbor-vitaeligfiretcshortstoutandbranchyanddonotmakegoodfish-polesevenafteryouhavepatientlycutoffalltheirtoughandscraggybranchesThefisheswereredperchandchivinThe Indian having cut off a large piece of sirloin the upper lip and thetonguewrappedtheminthehideandplacedtheminthebottomofthecanoeobservingthattherewasonemanmeaningtheweightofoneOurloadhadpreviouslybeenreducedsomethirtypoundsbutahundredpoundswerenowaddedmdasha serious additionwhichmade our quarters stillmore narrow andconsiderablyincreasedthedangeronthelakesandrapidsaswellasthelaborofthecarriesTheskinwasoursaccordingtocustomsincetheIndianwasinouremploybutwedidnotthinkofclaimingitHebeingaskillfuldresserofmoose-hideswouldmakeitworthsevenoreightdollarstohimasIwastold

HesaidthathesometimesearnedfiftyorsixtydollarsinadayatthemhehadkilledtenmooseinonedaythoughtheskinningandalltooktwodaysThiswas the way he had got his property There were the tracks of a calfthereabouts which he saidwould come by by and he could get it if wecaredtowaitbutIcastcoldwaterontheprojectWecontinuedalongtheoutlettowardGrandLakethroughaswampyregionbya longwindingandnarrowdeadwaterverymuchchokedupbywoodwherewewereobligedtolandsometimesinordertogetthecanoeoveralogItwashardtofindanychannelandwedidnotknowbutweshouldbelostintheswampItaboundedinducksasusualAtlengthwereachedGrandLakewhichtheIndiancalledMatungamookAt the head of this we saw coming in from the southwest with a sweepapparently from a gorge in themountains Trout Stream orUncardnerheesewhichnametheIndiansaidhadsomethingtodowithmountainsWe stopped to dine on an interesting high rocky island soon after enteringMatungamook Lake securing our canoe to the cliffy shore It is alwayspleasant to step from a boat on to a large rock or cliff Here was a goodopportunity to dry our dewy blankets on the open sunny rock Indians hadrecently camped here and accidentally burned over the western end of theisland and Polis picked up a gun-case of blue broadcloth and said that heknewtheIndianitbelongedtoandwouldcarryittohimHistribeisnotsolargebuthemayknowallitseffectsWeproceededtomakeafireandcookourdinneramidsomepineswhereourpredecessorshaddonethesamewhiletheIndianbusiedhimselfabouthismoose-hideontheshoreforhesaidthathethoughtitagoodplanforonetodoallthecookingieIsupposeifthatonewerenothimselfApeculiarevergreenoverhungour firewhichat firstglancelookedlikeapitchpine(Prigida)withleaveslittlemorethananinchlongspruce-likebutwefoundittobethePinusBanksianamdashBankssortheLabradorPinealsocalledscrubpinegraypineetcanewtreetousThesemust have been good specimens for several were thirty or thirty-five feethigh Richardson found it forty feet high and upward and states that theporcupinefeedsonitsbarkHerealsogrewtheredpine(Pinusresinosa)I sawwhere the Indians hadmade canoes in a little secluded hollow in thewoodsonthetopoftherockwheretheywereoutofthewindandlargepilesof whittlings remained This must have been a favorite resort for theirancestorsandindeedwefoundherethepointofanarrowheadsuchastheyhavenotusedfortwocenturiesandnowknownothowtomakeTheIndianpickingupastoneremarkedtomeThatverystrangelock(rock)Itwasapiece of hornstone which I told him his tribe had probably brought herecenturiesbeforetomakearrowheadsofHealsopickedupayellowishcurvedbonebythesideofourfireplaceandaskedmetoguesswhatitwasItwasone

of theupper incisorsof abeaveronwhich somepartyhad feastedwithinayearortwoIfoundalsomostoftheteethandtheskulletcWeheredinedonfriedmoose-meatOnewhowasmycompanioninmytwopreviousexcursionstothesewoodstells me that when hunting up the Caucomgomoc about two years ago hefoundhimself diningonedayonmoose-meatmud turtle trout andbeaverand he thought that there were few places in the world where these dishescouldeasilybebroughttogetherononetableAfter the almost incessant rapids and falls of theMadunkchunk (Height-of-Land or Webster Stream) we had just passed through the dead water ofSecondLakeandwerenowinthemuchlargerdeadwaterofGrandLakeandIthoughttheIndianwasentitledtotakeanextranaphereKtaadnnearwhichwe were to pass the next day is said to mean Highest Land So muchgeographyisthereintheirnamesTheIndiannavigatornaturallydistinguishesbyanamethosepartsofastreamwherehehasencounteredquickwaterandforksandagainthelakesandsmoothwaterwherehecanresthiswearyarmssince those are themost interesting andmore arable parts to himThe verysightoftheNerlumskeechticookorDeadwaterMountainsadaysjourneyoffovertheforestaswefirstsawthemmustawakeninhimpleasingmemoriesAndnotlessinterestingisittothewhitetravelerwhenheiscrossingaplacidlakeintheseout-of-the-waywoodsperhapsthinkingthatheisinsomesenseoneoftheearlierdiscoverersofittoberemindedthatitwasthuswellknownandsuitablynamedbyIndianhuntersperhapsathousandyearsagoAscending theprecipitous rockwhich formed this longnarrow island Iwassurprisedtofindthatitssummitwasanarrowridgewithaprecipiceononeside and that its axis of elevation extended from northwest to southeastexactly like thatof thegreat rocky ridgeat thecommencementof theBurntGround tenmiles northwesterlyThe same arrangement prevailed here andwecouldplainlyseethatthemountainridgesonthewestofthelaketrendedthesamewaySplendidlargeharebellsnoddedovertheedgeandinthecleftsofthecliffandtheblueberries(VacciniumCanadense)wereforthefirsttimereally abundant in the thin soil on its top There was no lack of themhenceforward on the East Branch There was a fine view hence over thesparklinglakewhichlookedpureanddeepandhadtwoorthreeinallrockyislands in it Our blankets being dry we set out again the Indian as usualhaving left his gazette on a tree This time it waswe three in a canoemycompanionsmokingWepaddledsouthwarddownthishandsomelakewhichappearedtoextendnearlyasfareastassouthkeepingnearthewesternshorejustoutsideasmallislandunderthedarkNerlumskeechticookMountainForIhadobservedonmymapthatthiswasthecourseItwasthreeorfourmilesacrossitItstruckmethattheoutlineofthismountainonthesouthwestofthe

lakeandofanotherbeyonditwasnotonlylikethatofthehugerockwavesofWebsterStreambutinthemainlikeKineoonMooseheadLakehavingasimilar but less abrupt precipice at the southeast end in short that all theprominenthillsandridgeshereaboutswerelargerorsmallerKineosandthatpossibly therewas such a relation betweenKineo and the rocks ofWebsterStreamTheIndiandidnotknowexactlywheretheoutletwaswhetherattheextremesouthwest angle ormore easterly and had asked to seemy plan at the laststopping-placebutIhadforgottentoshowittohimAsusualhewentfeelinghiswaybyamiddlecoursebetweentwoprobablepointsfromwhichhecoulddiverge eitherway at lastwithout losingmuch distance In approaching thesouthshoreasthecloudslookedgustyandthewavesranprettyhighwesosteeredas togetpartlyunder the leeofan island thoughatagreatdistancefromitIcouldnotdistinguishtheoutlettillwewerealmostinitandheardthewaterfallingoverthedamthereHere was a considerable fall and a very substantial dam but no sign of acabinorcampThehunterwhomwemetatTelosLakehadtoldusthattherewereplentyof trout here but at this hour theydidnot rise to thebait onlycousintroutfromtheverymidstoftherushingwatersTherearenotsomanyfishesintheseriversasintheConcordWhileweloiteredherePolistookoccasiontocutwithhisbigknifesomeofthehair fromhismoose-hide and so lightened andprepared it for drying InoticedatseveraloldIndiancampsin thewoodsthepileofhairwhichtheyhadcutfromtheirhidesHavingcarriedoverthedamhedarteddowntherapidsleavingustowalkforamileormorewhereforthemostparttherewasnopathbutverythickanddifficult traveling near the stream At length he would call to let us knowwherehewaswaitingforuswithhiscanoewhenonaccountofthewindingsofthestreamwedidnotknowwheretheshorewasbuthedidnotcalloftenenoughforgettingthatwewerenotIndiansHeseemedtobeverysavingofhisbreathmdashyethewouldbesurprisedifwewentbyordidnotstriketherightspotThiswasnotbecausehewasunaccommodatingbutaproofofsuperiormannersIndiansliketogetalongwiththeleastpossiblecommunicationandadoHewasreallypayingusagreatcomplimentall thewhile thinking thatwepreferredahinttoakickAt length climbing over thewillows and fallen treeswhen thiswas easierthantogoroundorunderthemweovertookthecanoeandglideddownthestreaminsmoothbutswiftwaterforseveralmilesIhereobservedagainasatWebsterStreamandonastill larger scale thenextday that the riverwasa

smooth and regularly inclined plane down which we coasted As we thusglidedalongwestartedthefirstblackduckswhichwehaddistinguishedWe decided to camp early to-night that we might have ample time beforedark so we stopped at the first favorable shore where there was a narrowgravelly beach on thewestern side some fivemiles below the outlet of thelakeItwasaninterestingspotwheretheriverbegantomakeagreatbendtothe east and the last of the peculiar moose-faced NerlumskeechticookMountainsnotfarsouthwestofGrandLakerosedarkinthenorthwestashortdistancebehind displaying its grayprecipitous southeast side butwe couldnotseethiswithoutcomingoutupontheshoreTwostepsfromthewateroneithersideandyoucometotheabruptbushyandrooty if not turfy edge of the bank four or five feet high where theinterminableforestbeginsasifthestreamhadbutjustcutitswaythroughitItissurprisingonsteppingashoreanywhereintothisunbrokenwildernesstoseesooftenatleastwithinafewrodsoftheriverthemarksoftheaxemadeby lumberers who have either camped here or driven logs past in previousspringsYouwillseeperchancewheregoingonthesameerrandthatyoudotheyhavecutlargechipsfromatallwhitepinestumpfortheirfireWhilewewerepitchingthecampandgettingsuppertheIndiancuttherestofthehairfrom his moose-hide and proceeded to extend it vertically on a temporaryframebetweentwosmalltreeshalfadozenfeetfromtheoppositesideofthefirelashingandstretchingitwitharbor-vitaeligbarkwhichwasalwaysathandandinthiscasewasstrippedfromoneofthetreesitwastiedtoAskingforanew kind of tea he made us some pretty good of the checkerberry(Gaultheriaprocumbens)whichcoveredthegrounddroppingalittlebunchofit tied up with cedar bark into the kettle but it was not quite equal to theChiogenesWecalledthisthereforeCheckerberry-TeaCampI was struck with the abundance of the Linnaeliga borealis checkerberry andChiogeneshispidulaalmosteverywhereintheMainewoodsThewintergreen(Chimaphila umbellata) was still in bloom here and clintonia berries wereabundant and ripeThis handsomeplant is one of themost common in thatforest We here first noticed the moose-wood in fruit on the banks Theprevailingtreeswerespruce(commonlyblack)arbor-vitaeligcanoebirch(blackash and elms beginning to appear) yellow birch red maple and a littlehemlockskulkingintheforestTheIndiansaidthatthewhitemaplepunkwasthe best for tinder that yellow birch punkwas pretty good but hardAftersupperheputonthemoosetongueandlipstoboilcuttingouttheseptumHeshowedmehowtowriteontheundersideofbirchbarkwithablacksprucetwigwhichishardandtoughandcanbebroughttoapointTheIndianwanderedoffintothewoodsashortdistancejustbeforenightandcoming back said Me found great treasuremdashfifty sixty dollars worth

WhatsthatweaskedSteeltrapsunderalogthirtyorfortyIdidntcountem I guess Indian workmdashworth three dollars apiece It was a singularcoincidence that he should have chanced to walk to and look under thatparticularloginthattracklessforestI saw chivin and chub in the stream when washing my hands but mycompaniontriedinvaintocatchthemIalsoheardthesoundofbullfrogsfromaswampontheoppositeside thinkingatfirst that theyweremooseaduckpaddled swiftly by and sitting in that dusky wilderness under that darkmountainbythebrightriverwhichwasfullofreflectedlightstillIheardthewoodthrushsingas ifnohighercivilizationcouldbeattainedBythis timethenightwasuponusYou commonlymake your camp just at sundown and are collectingwoodgetting your supper or pitching your tent while the shades of night aregathering around and adding to the already dense gloom of the forest Youhave no time to explore or look around you before it is dark You maypenetratehalfadozenrodsfartherintothattwilightwildernessaftersomedrybark to kindle your fire with and wonder what mysteries lie hidden stilldeeperinitsayattheendofalongdayswalkoryoumayrundowntotheshoreforadipperofwaterandgetaclearerviewforashortdistanceupordownthestreamandwhileyoustandthereseeafishleaporduckalightintheriverorhearawoodthrushorrobinsinginthewoodsThatisasifyouhadbeen to townorcivilizedpartsBut there isnosaunteringoff tosee thecountryandtenorfifteenrodsseemsagreatwayfromyourcompanionsandyoucomebackwiththeairofamuch-traveledmanasfromalongjourneywithadventurestorelatethoughyoumayhaveheardthecracklingofthefireall thewhilemdashand at a hundred rods youmight be lost past recovery andhavetocampoutItisallmossyandmooseyInsomeofthosedensefirandsprucewoods there is hardly room for the smoke to go up The trees are astanding night and every fir and sprucewhich you fell is a plume pluckedfromnightsravenwingThenatnightthegeneralstillnessismoreimpressivethananysoundbutoccasionallyyouhearthenoteofanowlfartherornearerin the woods and if near a lake the semihuman cry of the loons at theirunearthlyrevelsTo-nighttheIndianlaybetweenthefireandhisstretchedmoose-hidetoavoidthemosquitoesIndeedhealsomadeasmallsmokyfireofdampleavesathisheadandhisfeetandthenasusualrolleduphisheadinhisblanketWewithourveilsandourwashweretolerablycomfortablebutitwouldbedifficulttopursueanysedentaryoccupationinthewoodsatthisseasonyoucannotseetoreadmuchbythelightofafirethroughaveilintheeveningnorhandlepencilandpaperwellwithglovesoranointedfingersFRIDAYJuly31

TheIndiansaidYouandIkillmooselastnightthereforeuseembestwoodAlways use hard wood to cook moose-meat His best wood was rockmapleHecastthemooseslipintothefiretoburnthehairoffandthenrolledit upwith themeat to carry alongObserving thatwewere sitting down tobreakfastwithoutanyporkhesaidwithaverygrave lookMewantsomefatsohewastoldthathemighthaveasmuchashewouldfryWehadsmoothbutswiftwaterforaconsiderabledistancewhereweglidedrapidly along scaring up ducks and kingfishers But as usual our smoothprogresserelongcametoanendandwewereobligedtocarrycanoeandallabouthalfamiledowntherightbankaroundsomerapidsorfallsItrequiredsharpeyessometimesto tellwhichsidewasthecarrybeforeyouwentoverthe falls but Polis never failed to land us rightly The raspberries wereparticularly abundant and largehere and all handswent to eating them theIndianremarkingontheirsizeOftenonbarerockycarriesthetrailwassoindistinctthatIrepeatedlylostitbutwhenIwalkedbehindhimIobservedthathecouldkeepitalmostlikeahoundandrarelyhesitatedorifhepausedamomentonabarerockhiseyeimmediatelydetectedsomesignwhichwouldhaveescapedmeFrequentlywefoundnopathatallattheseplacesandweretohimunaccountablydelayedHewouldonlysayitwasverstrangeWehadheardof aGrandFall on this stream and thought that each fallwecametomustbeitbutafterchristeningseveralinsuccessionwiththisnamewe gave up the search There were more Grand or Petty Falls than I canrememberIcannottellhowmanytimeswehadtowalkonaccountoffallsorrapidsWewereexpectingall thewhile that theriverwouldtakeafinal leapandget tosmooth water but there was no improvement this forenoon However thecarrieswereanagreeablevarietySosurelyaswesteppedoutofthecanoeandstretched our legs we found ourselves in a blueberry and raspberry gardeneachsideofourrockytrailaroundthefallsbeinglinedwithoneorbothTherewasnotacarryonthemainEastBranchwherewedidnotfindanabundanceofboththeseberriesfortheseweretherockiestplacesandpartiallyclearedsuchastheseplantspreferandtherehadbeennonetogatherthefinestbeforeusIn our three journeys over the carriesmdashforwewere obliged to go over thegroundthreetimeswheneverthecanoewastakenoutmdashwedidfulljusticetotheberriesandtheywerejustwhatwewantedtocorrecttheeffectofourhardbread and pork diet Another name for making a portage would have beengoinga-berryingWealsofoundafewamelanchierorserviceberriesthoughmostwere abortive but they held on rathermore generally than they do inConcordTheIndiancalledthempemoymenukandsaidthattheyboremuch

fruit in some places He sometimes also ate the northern wild red cherriessayingthattheyweregoodmedicinebuttheywerescarcelyedibleWebathedanddinedatthefootofoneofthesecarriesItwastheIndianwhocommonlyremindedus that itwasdinner-time sometimesevenby turning theprow totheshoreHeoncemadean indirectbut lengthyapologybysaying thatwemight think it strange but that one who worked hard all day was veryparticulartohavehisdinneringoodseasonAtthemostconsiderablefallonthis streamwhen Iwaswalking over the carry close behind the Indian heobserveda trackon the rockwhichwasbut slightlycoveredwith soil andstoopingmutteredcaribouWhenwe returnedheobservedamuch largertrack near the same place where some animals foot had sunk into a smallhollowin therockpartly filledwithgrassandearthandheexclaimedwithsurprise What that Well what is it I asked Stooping and laying hishand in it he answeredwith amysterious air and in a halfwhisper Devil[thatisIndianDevilorcougar]mdashledgesaboutheremdashverybadanimalmdashpullemrocksall topiecesHowlongsince itwasmadeIaskedTo-dayoryesterdaysaidheButwhenIaskedhimafterwardifhewassureitwasthedevils track he said he did not know I had been told that the scream of acougar was heard about Ktaadn recently and we were not far from thatmountainWespentatleasthalfthetimeinwalkingto-dayandthewalkingwasasbadasusualfortheIndianbeingalonecommonlyrandownfarbelowthefootofthecarriesbeforehewaitedforusThecarry-pathsthemselvesweremorethanusually indistinctoften the routebeing revealedonlyby thecountlesssmallholes in the fallen timbermade by the tacks in the drivers boots orwherethere was a slight trail we did not find it It was a tangled and perplexingthicketthroughwhichwestumbledandthreadedourwayandwhenwehadfinishedamileofitourstarting-pointseemedfarawayWeweregladthatwehadnotgottowalktoBangoralongthebanksofthisriverwhichwouldbeajourneyofmorethanahundredmilesThinkofthedensenessoftheforestthefallentreesandrocksthewindingsoftheriverthestreamsemptyinginandthefrequentswampstobecrossedItmadeyoushudderYettheIndianfromtime to time pointed out to uswhere he had thus crept along day after daywhenhewasaboyoftenandinastarvingconditionHehadbeenhuntingfarnorthofthiswithtwogrownIndiansThewintercameonunexpectedlyearlyand the ice compelled them to leave their canoe at Grand Lake and walkdownthebankTheyshoulderedtheirfursandstartedforOldtownThesnowwasnotdeepenoughforsnowshoesortocovertheinequalitiesofthegroundPoliswas soon tooweak to carry anyburden but hemanaged to catchoneotterThiswasthemosttheyallhadtoeatonthisjourneyandherememberedhowgoodtheyellowlilyrootsweremadeintoasoupwiththeotteroilHeshared this food equallywith the other two but being so small he suffered

much more than they He waded through the Mattawamkeag at its mouthwhenitwasfreezingcoldandcameuptohischinandhebeingveryweakandemaciatedexpectedtobesweptawayThefirsthousewhichtheyreachedwasatLincolnandthereaboutstheymetawhiteteamsterwithsupplieswhoseeingtheirconditiongavethemasmuchofhisloadastheycouldeatForsixmonthsaftergettinghomehewasvery lowanddidnotexpect to liveandwasperhapsalwaystheworseforitWecouldnotfindmuchmorethanhalfofthisdaysjourneyonourmaps(theMap of the Public Lands of Maine and Massachusetts and ColtonsRailroad and Township Map of Maine which copies the former) By themapstherewasnotmorethanfifteenmilesbetweencampsattheoutsideandyetwehadbeenbusilyprogressingalldayandmuchofthetimeveryrapidlyForsevenoreightmilesbelowthatsuccessionofGrandfallstheaspectofthebanksaswellasthecharacterofthestreamwaschangedAfterpassingatributary from the northeast perhaps Bowlin Stream we had good swiftsmooth water with a regular slope such as I have described Low grassybanksandmuddyshoresbeganManyelmsaswellasmaplesandmoreashtreesoverhungthestreamandsupplantedthespruceMy lily roots having been lost when the canoe was taken out at a carry IlandedlateintheafternoonatalowandgrassyplaceamidmaplestogathermoreItwasslowworkgrubbingthemupamidthesandandthemosquitoeswereallthewhilefeastingonmeMosquitoesblackfliesetcpursuedusinmid-channelandweweregladsometimestogetintoviolentrapidsforthenweescapedthemAred-headedwoodpeckerflewacrosstheriverandtheIndianremarkedthatitwasgoodtoeatAsweglidedswiftlydowntheinclinedplaneoftheriveragreatcatowllauncheditselfawayfromastumponthebankandflewheavilyacross the streamand the Indian asusual imitated itsnoteSoon the samebirdflewback infrontofusandweafterwardspassed itperchedona treeSoon afterward awhite-headed eagle sailed down the stream before usWedrovehimseveralmileswhilewewerelookingforagoodplacetocampforweexpectedtobeovertakenbyashowermdashandstillwecoulddistinguishhimbyhiswhitetailsailingawayfromtimetotimefromsometreebytheshorestillfartherdownthestreamSomeshecorwaysbeingsurprisedbyusapartofthem dived andwe passed directly over them and could trace their coursehereandtherebyabubbleonthesurfacebutwedidnotseethemcomeupPolis detectedonce or twicewhat he called a tow road an indistinct pathleadingintotheforestInthemeanwhilewepassedthemouthoftheSebooison our leftThis did not look so large as our streamwhichwas indeed themainone Itwassome timebeforewe foundacamping-place for theshorewaseithertoograssyandmuddywheremosquitoesaboundedortoosteepa

hillside The Indian said that there were but few mosquitoes on a steephillsideWeexaminedagoodplacewheresomebodyhadcampedalongtimebutitseemedpitifultooccupyanoldsitewheretherewassomuchroomtochoosesowecontinuedonWeatlengthfoundaplacetoourmindsonthewest bank about amile below themouth of the Seboois where in a verydensesprucewoodaboveagravellyshorethereseemedtobebutfewinsectsThetreesweresothickthatwewereobligedtoclearaspacetobuildourfireandliedowninandtheyoungsprucetreesthatwereleftwerelikethewallofanapartment risingaroundusWewereobliged topullourselvesupasteepbank to get there But the place which you have selected for your campthough never so rough and grim begins at once to have its attractions andbecomesaverycentreofcivilization toyouHome ishomebe itneversohomelyItturnedoutthatthemosquitoesweremorenumerousherethanwehadfoundthem before and the Indian complained a good deal though he lay as thenightbeforebetweenthreefiresandhisstretchedhideAsIsatonastumpbythe firewithaveilandgloveson trying to readheobservedImakeyoucandleandinaminutehetookapieceofbirchbarkabouttwoincheswideandrolled ithard likeanallumettefifteen inches long lit itandfixed itbytheotherendhorizontallyinasplitstickthreefeethighstuckitinthegroundturning the blazing end to thewind and tellingme to snuff it from time totimeItansweredthepurposeofacandleprettywellI noticed as I had done before that therewas a lull among themosquitoesabout midnight and that they began again in the morning Nature is thusmercifulButapparently theyneed restaswellasweFew ifanycreaturesareequallyactiveallnightAssoonasitwaslightIsawthroughmyveilthattheinsideofthetentaboutourheadswasquiteblackenedwithmyriadseachoneof theirwingswhenflyingashasbeencalculatedvibratingsomethreethousand times in aminute and their combined humwas almost as bad toendureastheirstingsIhadanuncomfortablenightonthisaccountthoughIamnotsurethatonesucceededinhisattempttostingmeWedidnotsuffersomuch from insects on this excursion as the statements of some who haveexploredthesewoodsinmidsummerledustoanticipateYetIhavenodoubtthatat someseasonsand insomeplaces theyareamuchmoreseriouspestTheJesuitHieromeLalemantofQuebecreportingthedeathofFatherReniMenardwhowasabandonedlosthiswayanddiedinthewoodsamongtheOntarios near Lake Superior in 1661 dwells chiefly on his probablesufferings from theattacksofmosquitoeswhen tooweak todefendhimselfadding that there was a frightful number of them in those parts and soinsupportablesayshethatthethreeFrenchmenwhohavemadethatvoyageaffirmthattherewasnoothermeansofdefendingonesselfbuttorunalwayswithoutstoppinganditwasevennecessaryfortwoofthemtobeemployedin

drivingoffthesecreatureswhilethethirdwantedtodrinkotherwisehecouldnothavedoneitIhavenodoubtthatthiswassaidingoodfaithAugust1I caught two or three large red chivin (Leuciscus pulchellus) early thismorningwithintwentyfeetofthecampwhichaddedtothemoose-tonguethathadbeenleftinthekettleboilingovernightandtoourotherstoresmadea sumptuous breakfast The Indian made us some hemlock tea instead ofcoffeeandwewerenotobligedtogoasfarasChinaforitindeednotquiteso far as for the fish This was tolerable though he said it was not strongenoughItwas interestingtoseesosimpleadishasakettleofwaterwithahandfulofgreenhemlocksprigs in itboilingover thehuge fire in theopenairtheleavesfastlosingtheirlivelygreencolorandknowthatitwasforourbreakfastWeweregladtoembarkoncemoreandleavesomeofthemosquitoesbehindWehadpassedtheWassataquoikwithoutperceivingitThisaccordingtotheIndianisthenameofthemainEastBranchitselfandnotproperlyappliedtothissmalltributaryaloneasonthemapsWefoundthatwehadcampedaboutamileaboveHuntswhichisontheeastbankandisthelasthouseforthosewhoascendKtaadnonthissideWehadexpectedtoascenditfromthispointbutmycompanionwasobligedtogiveup this on account of sore feetThe Indian however suggested thatperhapshemightgetapairofmoccasinsatthisplaceandthathecouldwalkveryeasilyinthemwithouthurtinghisfeetwearingseveralpairsofstockingsandhesaidbesidethattheyweresoporousthatwhenyouhadtakeninwaterit all drained out again in a littlewhileWe stopped to get some sugar butfoundthatthefamilyhadmovedawayandthehousewasunoccupiedexcepttemporarily by somemenwhowere getting the hay They toldme that theroadtoKtaadnlefttherivereightmilesabovealsothatperhapswecouldgetsomesugaratFisksfourteenmilesbelowIdonotrememberthatwesawthemountain at all from the river I noticed a seine here stretchedon the bankwhichprobablyhadbeenused tocatchsalmon Justbelow thison thewestbank we saw a moose-hide stretched and with it a bearskin which wascomparativelyvery small Iwas themore interested in this sight because itwasnearhere that a townsmanofours thenquite a lad andalonekilledalargebearsomeyearsagoTheIndiansaidthattheybelongedtoJoeAitteonmylastguidebuthowhetoldIdonotknowHewasprobablyhuntingnearandhadleftthemforthedayFindingthatweweregoingdirectlytoOldtownhe regretted that he had not taken more of the moose-meat to his familysayingthatinashorttimebydryingithecouldhavemadeitsolightastohave brought away the greater part leaving the bones We once or twiceinquiredafterthelipwhichisafamoustidbitbuthesaidThatgoOldtown

formyoldwomandontgetiteverydayMaples grewmore andmore numerous Itwas lowering and rained a littleduring the forenoon and as we expected a wetting we stopped early anddinedon theeast sideofa smallexpansionof the river justabovewhatareprobably calledWhetstone Falls about a dozen miles below Hunts Therewere pretty fresh moose-tracks by the waterside There were singular longridges hereabouts called horsebacks covered with fernsMy companionhavinglosthispipeaskedtheIndianifhecouldnotmakehimoneOhyersaid he and in aminute rolled up one of birch bark telling him towet thebowlfromtimetotimeHerealsohelefthisgazetteonatreeWecarriedroundthefallsjustbelowonthewestsideTherockswereontheiredgesandverysharpThedistancewasaboutthreefourthsofamileWhenwehadcarriedoverone load the Indianreturnedby theshoreandIby thepath and though Imadenoparticular haste Iwasnevertheless surprised tofindhimat theother endas soonas I Itwas remarkablehoweasilyhegotalongover theworstgroundHe said tome I takecanoeandyou take therestsupposeyoucankeepalongwithmeIthoughtthathemeantthatwhileherandowntherapidsIshouldkeepalongtheshoreandbereadytoassisthimfromtimetotimeasIhaddonebeforebutasthewalkingwouldbeverybadIansweredIsupposeyouwillgotoofastformebutIwilltryButIwas to go by the path he said This I thoughtwould not help thematter IshouldhavesofartogotogettotheriversidewhenhewantedmeButneitherwasthiswhathemeantHewasproposingaraceoverthecarryandaskedmeifIthoughtIcouldkeepalongwithhimbythesamepathaddingthatImustbeprettysmart todo itAshis load thecanoewouldbemuch theheaviestandbulkiestthoughthesimplestIthoughtthatIoughttobeabletodoitandsaidthatIwouldtrySoIproceededtogatherupthegunaxepaddlekettlefrying-panplatesdipperscarpetsetcetcandwhileIwasthusengagedhethrewmehiscowhidebootsWhatare thesein thebargainIaskedOhyer said he but before I could make a bundle of my load I saw himdisappearingover a hillwith the canoeonhis head so hastily scraping thevariousarticlestogetherIstartedontherunandimmediatelywentbyhiminthebushesbutIhadnosoonerlefthimoutofsightinarockyhollowthanthegreasy plates dippers etc took to themselves wings and while I wasemployedingatheringthemupagainhewentbymebuthastilypressingthesootykettletomysideIstartedoncemoreandsoonpassinghimagainIsawhimnomoreonthecarryIdonotmentionthisasanythingofafeatforitwasbutpoorrunningonmypartandhewasobligedtomovewithgreatcautionfor fear of breaking his canoe as well as his neck When he made hisappearancepuffingandpantinglikemyselfinanswertomyinquirieswherehehadbeenhesaidRocks(locks)cutemfeetandlaughingaddedOhmelovetoplaysometimesHesaidthatheandhiscompanionswhenthey

cametocarriesseveralmileslongusedtotrywhowouldgetoverfirsteachperhapswithacanoeonhisheadIborethesignofthekettleonmybrownlinensackfortherestofthevoyageWemade a second carry on the west side around some falls about a milebelowthisOnthemainlandwereNorwaypinesindicatinganewgeologicalformationanditwassuchadryandsandysoilaswehadnotnoticedbeforeAsweapproachedthemouthoftheEastBranchwepassedtwoorthreehutsthe first sign of civilization afterHunts thoughwe sawno road as yetweheardacow-bellandevensawaninfanthelduptoasmallsquarewindowtoseeuspassbutapparentlytheinfantandthemotherthathelditweretheonlyinhabitantsthenathomeforseveralmilesThistookthewindoutofoursailsremindingus thatwewere travelerssurelywhile itwasanativeof thesoiland had the advantage of us Conversation flagged I would only hear theIndian perhaps ask my companion You load my pipe He said that hesmokedalderbarkformedicineOnenteringtheWestBranchatNicketowitappearedmuch larger than the East Polis remarked that the formerwas allgone and lost now that it was all smooth water hence to Oldtown and hethrew away his polewhichwas cut on theUmbazookskus Thinking of therapidshesaidonceor twice thatyouwouldntcatchhim togoEastBranchagainbuthedidnotbyanymeansmeanallthathesaidThingsarequitechangedsinceIwashereelevenyearsagoWheretherewerebutoneortwohousesInowfoundquiteavillagewithsawmillsandastore(thelatterwaslockedbutitscontentsweresomuchthemoresafelystored)and there was a stage-road to Mattawamkeag and the rumor of a stageIndeedasteamerhadascendedthusfaroncewhenthewaterwasveryhighButwewerenotabletogetanysugaronlyabettershingletoleanourbacksagainstWecampedabout twomilesbelowNicketowon the south sideof theWestBranchcoveringwithfresh twigs thewitheredbedofaformer travelerandfeelingthatwewerenowinasettledcountryespeciallywhenintheeveningweheardanoxsneezeinitswildpastureacrosstheriverWhereveryoulandalongthefrequentedpartoftheriveryouhavenotfartogotofindthesesitesoftemporaryinnsthewitheredbedofflattenedtwigsthecharredsticksandperhapsthetent-polesAndnotlongsincesimilarbedswerespreadalongtheConnecticut the Hudson and the Delaware and longer still ago by theThames and Seine and they now help to make the soil where private andpublicgardensmansionsandpalacesareWecouldnotgetfir twigsforourbed here and the spruce was harsh in comparison having more twig inproportiontoitsleafbutweimproveditsomewhatwithhemlockTheIndianremarked as before Must have hardwood to cookmoose-meat as if thatwere a maxim and proceeded to get it My companion cooked some in

Californiafashionwindingalongstringofthemeatroundastickandslowlyturning it in his hand before the fire Itwas very goodBut the Indian notapprovingofthemodeorbecausehewasnotallowedtocookithisownwaywouldnottasteitAftertheregularsupperweattemptedtomakealilysoupofthebulbswhichIhadbroughtalongforIwishedtolearnallIcouldbeforeIgot out of thewoods Following the Indians directions for he began to besickIwashedthebulbscarefullymincedsomemoose-meatandsomeporksaltedandboiledall togetherbutwehadnotpatience to try theexperimentfairlyforhesaiditmustbeboiledtilltherootswerecompletelysoftenedsoasto thicken thesoup likeflourbut thoughweleft itonallnightwefounditdried to thekettle in themorning andnotyetboiled to a flourPerhaps therootswerenotripeenoughfortheycommonlygathertheminthefallAsitwasitwaspalatableenoughbutitremindedmeoftheIrishmanslimestonebrothTheother ingredientswereenoughaloneTheIndiansnamefor thesebulbswas Sheepnoc I stirred the soup by accidentwith a stripedmaple ormoose-woodstickwhichIhadpeeledandheremarkedthatitsbarkwasanemeticHe prepared to camp as usual between his moose-hide and the fire but itbeginningtorainsuddenlyhetookrefugeunderthetentwithusandgaveusa songbefore falling asleep It rainedhard in thenight and spoiled anotherboxofmatchesforuswhichtheIndianhadleftoutforhewasverycarelessbut asusualwehad somuch thebetternight for the rain since itkept themosquitoesdownSUNDAYAugust2Was a cloudy and unpromisingmorningOne of us observed to the IndianYoudidnotstretchyourmoose-hidelastnightdidyouMrPolisWhereatherepliedinatoneofsurprisethoughperhapsnotofillhumorWhatyouaskmethatquestionforSupposeIstretchemyouseeemMaybeyourwaytalkingmaybeallrightnoIndianwayIhadobservedthathedidnotwishtoanswerthesamequestionmorethanonceandwasoftensilentwhenitwasput again for the sake of certainty as if he were moody Not that he wasincommunicativeforhefrequentlycommencedalong-windednarrativeofhisown accordmdashrepeated at length the tradition of some old battle or somepassage in the recenthistoryofhis tribe inwhichhehadactedaprominentpartfromtimetotimedrawingalongbreathandresumingthethreadofhistalewiththetruestory-tellersleisurelinessperhapsaftershootingarapidmdashprefacingwithWe-e-llby-byetcashepaddledalongEspeciallyafterthedaysworkwasoverandhehadputhimselfinpostureforthenighthewouldbeunexpectedly sociable exhibit even thebonhommieof aFrenchman andwewouldfallasleepbeforehegotthroughhisperiodsNicketowiscalledelevenmilesfromMattawamkeagbytheriverOurcamp

wasthereforeaboutninemilesfromthelatterplaceTheIndianwasquitesick thismorningwith thecolic I thought thathewastheworseforthemoose-meathehadeatenWereachedtheMattawamkeagathalfpasteightinthemorninginthemidstofadrizzlingrainandafterbuyingsomesugarsetoutagainTheIndiangrowingmuchworsewestopped in thenorthpartofLincoln toget some brandy for him but failing in this an apothecary recommendedBrandreths pills which he refused to take because he was not acquaintedwiththemHesaidtomeMedoctormdashfirststudymycasefindoutwhatailemmdashthen I know what to take We dropped down a little farther andstoppedatmid-forenoononanislandandmadehimadipperofteaHeretoowedinedanddidsomewashingandbotanizingwhilehelayonthebankInthe afternoon we went on a little farther though the Indian was no betterBurntibusashecalleditwasalongsmoothlake-likereachbelowtheFiveIslandsHesaidthatheownedahundredacressomewhereupthiswayAsathunder-showerappearedtobecomingupwestoppedoppositeabarnonthewest bank in Chester about a mile above Lincoln Here at last we wereobligedtospendtherestofthedayandnightonaccountofourpatientwhosesicknessdidnotabateHelaygroaningunderhiscanoeonthebanklookingverywoebegoneyetitwasonlyacommoncaseofcolicYouwouldnothavethoughtifyouhadseenhimlyingaboutthusthathewastheproprietorofsomany acres in that neighborhood was worth six thousand dollars and hadbeentoWashingtonItseemedtomethatliketheIrishhemadeagreateradoabouthissicknessthanaYankeedoesandwasmorealarmedabouthimselfWe talked somewhatof leavinghimwithhispeople inLincolnmdashfor that isone of their homesmdashand taking the stage the next day but he objected onaccount of the expense saying Supposemewell inmorning you and I goOldtownbynoonAswewere taking our tea at twilightwhile he lay groaning still under hiscanoehavingat length foundout whatailhimheaskedme togethimadipperofwaterTakingthedipperinonehandheseizedhispowder-hornwiththeotherandpouringintoitachargeortwoofpowderstirreditupwithhisfingeranddrankitoffThiswasallhetookto-dayafterbreakfastbesidehisteaTosavethetroubleofpitchingourtentwhenwehadsecuredourstoresfromwanderingdogswecampedinthesolitaryhalf-openbarnnearthebankwiththe permission of the owner lying on new-mown hay four feet deep Thefragranceofthehayinwhichmanyfernsetcweremingledwasagreeablethough itwas quite alivewith grasshopperswhich you could hear crawlingthroughitThisservedtograduateourapproachtohousesandfeatherbedsInthenightsomelargebirdprobablyanowlflittedthroughoverourheadsand

very early in themorningwewere awakened by the twittering of swallowswhichhadtheirneststhereMONDAYAugust3We started early before breakfast the Indian being considerably better andsoonglidedbyLincolnandafteranotherlongandhandsomelake-likereachwestoppedtobreakfastonthewestshoretwoorthreemilesbelowthistownWe frequently passed Indian islands with their small houses on them TheGovernorAitteonlivesinoneoftheminLincolnThePenobscotIndiansseemtobemoresocialeventhanthewhitesEverandanoninthedeepestwildernessofMaineyoucometotheloghutofaYankeeor Canada settler but a Penobscot never takes up his residence in such asolitudeTheyarenotevenscatteredaboutontheirislandsinthePenobscotwhichareallwithinthesettlementsbutgatheredtogetherontwoorthreemdashthoughnotalwayson thebest soilmdashevidently for thesakeofsociety I sawoneor twohousesnotnowusedby thembecauseasour IndianPolis saidtheyweretoosolitaryThe small river emptying in atLincoln is theMatanancookwhich alsowenoticedwasthenameofasteamermooredthereSowepaddledandfloatedalonglookingintothemouthsofriversWhenpassingtheMohawkRipsorastheIndiancalledthemMohoglipsfourorfivemilesbelowLincolnhetoldusatlengththestoryofafightbetweenhistribeandtheMohawksthereancientlymdashhowthelatterwereovercomebystratagemthePenobscotsusingconcealedknivesmdashbuttheycouldnotforalongtimekilltheMohawkchiefwho was a very large and strong man though he was attacked by severalcanoesatoncewhenswimmingaloneintheriverFromtimetotimewemetIndiansintheircanoesgoingupriverOurmandidnot commonly approach them but exchanged a few words with them at adistanceinhistongueThesewerethefirstIndianswehadmetsinceleavingtheUmbazookskusAt Piscataquis Falls just above the river of that namewewalked over thewoodenrailroadontheeasternshoreaboutoneandahalfmileslongwhiletheIndianglideddowntherapidsThesteamerfromOldtownstopshereandpassengerstakeanewboatabovePiscataquiswhosemouthweherepassedmeans branch It is obstructed by falls at itsmouth but can be navigatedwith batteaux or canoes above through a settled country even to theneighborhoodofMooseheadLakeandwehad thoughtat firstofgoing thatwayWewerenotobligedtogetoutofthecanoeafterthisonaccountoffallsorrapidsnorindeedwasitquitenecessaryhereWetooklessnoticeofthesceneryto-daybecausewewereinquiteasettledcountryTheriverbecamebroadandsluggishandwesawablueheronwingingitswayslowlydownthe

streambeforeusWe passed the Passadumkeag River on our left and saw the blue Olamonmountains at a distance in the southeast Hereabouts our Indian told us atlength the story of their contention with the priest respecting schools Hethought a great deal of education and had recommended it to his tribeHisargument in its favor was that if you had been to college and learnt tocalculateyoucouldkeepempropertymdashnootherwayHesaidthathisboywasthebestscholarintheschoolatOldtowntowhichhewentwithwhitesHehimselfisaProtestantandgoestochurchregularlyatOldtownAccordingto his account a good many of his tribe are Protestants and many of theCatholics also are in favor of schools Some years ago they had aschoolmaster aProtestantwhom they likedverywellThepriest cameandsaidthattheymustsendhimawayandfinallyhehadsuchinfluencetellingthemthattheywouldgotothebadplaceatlastiftheyretainedhimthattheysent him away The school party though numerous were about giving upBishopFenwickcamefromBostonandusedhis influenceagainst themButourIndiantoldhissidethattheymustnotgiveupmustholdontheywerethestrongestIftheygaveupthentheywouldhavenopartyButtheyansweredthat it was no use priest too strong wed better give up At length hepersuadedthemtomakeastandThepriestwasgoingforasigntocutdowntheliberty-poleSoPolisandhispartyhadasecretmeetingaboutithegotreadyfifteenortwentystoutyoungmen stript em naked and painted em like old times and told them thatwhenthepriestandhispartywenttocutdowntheliberty-poletheyweretorush up take hold of it and prevent them and he assured them that therewouldbenowar only anoisemdashnowarwherepriest isHekepthismenconcealed in a house near by andwhen the priests partywere about to cutdowntheliberty-polethefallofwhichwouldhavebeenadeath-blowtotheschoolpartyhegaveasignalandhisyoungmenrushedoutandseized thepoleTherewasagreatuproarandtheywereaboutcomingtoblowsbutthepriest interfered saying Nowar nowar and so the pole stands and theschoolgoesonstillWethoughtthatitshowedagooddealoftactinhimtoseizethisoccasionandtakehisstandonitprovinghowwellheunderstoodthosewithwhomhehadtodealTheOlamonRivercomesinfromtheeastinGreenbushafewmilesbelowthePassadumkeag When we asked the meaning of this name the Indian saidtherewasanislandoppositeitsmouthwhichwascalledOlarmonthatinoldtimeswhenvisitorswerecomingtoOldtowntheyusedtostoptheretodressand fixupor paint themselves What is thatwhich ladiesusedhe askedRougeRedVermilionYerhesaidthat is larmonakindofclayorred

paintwhichtheyusedtogethereWedecidedthatwetoowouldstopatthisislandandfixupourinnermanatleastbydiningItwasa large islandwithanabundanceofhempnettlebut IdidnotnoticeanykindofredpaintthereTheOlamonRiveratitsmouthatleastisadeadstreamTherewasanotherlargeislandinthatneighborhoodwhichtheIndiancalledSoogle(ieSugar)IslandAboutadozenmilesbeforereachingOldtownheinquiredHowyoulikeemyourpilotButwepostponedananswertillwehadgotquitebackagainTheSunkhaze another shortdead streamcomes in from theeast twomilesaboveOldtownThereissaidtobesomeofthebestdeergroundinMaineonthisstreamAskingthemeaningofthisnametheIndiansaidSupposeyouaregoingdownPenobscotjustlikeweandyouseeacanoecomeoutofbankandgoalongbeforeyoubutyounoseeemstreamThatisSunkhazeHehadpreviously complimentedmeonmypaddling saying that I paddledjust likeanybodygivingmeanIndiannamewhichmeantgreatpaddlerWhen off this stream he said to me who sat in the bows Me teach youpaddleSo turning toward theshorehegotout cameforwardandplacedmyhandsashewishedHeplacedoneofthemquiteoutsidetheboatandtheotherparallelwiththefirstgraspingthepaddleneartheendnotovertheflatextremityandtoldmetoslideitbackandforthonthesideofthecanoeThisIfoundwasagreatimprovementwhichIhadnotthoughtofsavingmethelaborofliftingthepaddleeachtimeandIwonderedthathehadnotsuggesteditbeforeItistruebeforeourbaggagewasreducedwehadbeenobligedtositwith our legs drawn up and our knees above the side of the canoe whichwouldhavepreventedourpaddlingthusorperhapshewasafraidofwearingouthiscanoebyconstantfrictiononthesideItoldhimthatIhadbeenaccustomedtositinthesternandliftingmypaddleateachstrokegiveitatwistinordertosteertheboatonlygettingapryonthesideeachtimeandIstillpaddledpartlyasifinthesternHethenwantedtoseemepaddleinthesternSochangingpaddlesforhehadthelongerandbetteroneandturningendforendhesittingflatonthebottomandIonthecrossbarhebegantopaddleveryhardtryingtoturnthecanoelookingoverhisshoulderandlaughingbutfindingitinvainherelaxedhiseffortsthoughwestillspedalongamileortwoveryswiftlyHesaidthathehadnofaulttofindwithmypaddling in the stern but I complained that he did not paddleaccordingtohisowndirectionsinthebowsOpposite the Sunkhaze is themain boom of the Penobscot where the logsfromfaruptheriverarecollectedandassortedAswe drew near toOldtown I asked Polis if hewas not glad to get home

again but therewasno relenting to hiswildness andhe said ItmakesnodifferencetomewhereIamSuchistheIndianspretensealwaysWeapproachedtheIndianIslandthroughthenarrowstraitcalledCookHesaidIxpectwetakeinsomewaterthereriversohighmdashneverseeitsohighatthisseasonVeryroughwatertherebutshortswampsteamboatonceDontyou paddle till I tell you then you paddle right along Itwas a very shortrapidWhen we were in the midst of it he shouted paddle and we shotthroughwithouttakinginadropSoon after the Indian houses came in sight but I could not at first tellmycompanionwhichoftwoorthreelargewhiteoneswasourguidesHesaiditwastheonewithblindsWelandedoppositehisdoorataboutfourintheafternoonhavingcomesomeforty miles this day From the Piscataquis we had come remarkably andunaccountablyquickprobablyasfastasthestageortheboatthoughthelastdozenmileswasdeadwaterPoliswanted to sell ushis canoe said itwould last sevenor eightyears orwithcareperhapstenbutwewerenotreadytobuyitWe stopped for anhour at his housewheremycompanion shavedwithhisrazorwhichhepronouncedinverygoodconditionMrsPworeahatandhadasilverbroochonherbreastbutshewasnotintroducedtousThehousewasroomyandneatAlargenewmapofOldtownandtheIndianIslandhungonthe wall and a clock opposite to it Wishing to know when the cars leftOldtownPolisssonbroughtoneofthelastBangorpaperswhichIsawwasdirectedtoJosephPolisfromtheofficeThiswas the last thatIsawofJoePolisWetookthe last trainandreachedBangorthatnight

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trunkfullofchoicescionsandhisgraftingapparatusinthespringThenextmorningwedrovealongthroughahighandhillycountryinviewofCold-StreamPondabeautifullakefourorfivemileslongandcameintotheHoultonroadagainherecalledthemilitaryroadatLincolnforty-fivemilesfromBangorwherethereisquiteavillageforthiscountrymdashtheprincipaloneaboveOldtownLearningthattherewereseveralwigwamshereononeoftheIndianislandsweleftourhorseandwagonandwalkedthroughtheforesthalfamile to the river to procure a guide to themountain Itwas not till afterconsiderable search that we discovered their habitationsmdashsmall huts in aretired place where the scenery was unusually soft and beautiful and theshoreskirtedwithpleasantmeadowsandgracefulelmsWepaddledourselvesacrosstotheislandsideinacanoewhichwefoundontheshoreNearwherewelandedsatanIndiangirltenortwelveyearsoldonarockinthewaterinthe sun washing and humming or moaning a song meanwhile It was anaboriginal strain A salmon-spear made wholly of wood lay on the shoresuchastheymighthaveusedbeforewhitemencameIthadanelasticpieceofwoodfastenedtoonesideofitspointwhichslippedoverandcloseduponthefishsomewhatlikethecontrivanceforholdingabucketattheendofawell-poleAswewalkeduptothenearesthouseweweremetbyasallyofadozenwolfish-looking dogs which may have been lineal descendants from theancient Indian dogswhich the first voyageurs describe as theirwolves IsupposetheywereTheoccupantsoonappearedwithalongpoleinhishandwithwhichhebeatoff thedogswhileheparleyedwithusmdashastalwartbutdullandgreasy-lookingfellowwhotoldusinhissluggishwayinanswertoourquestionsasifitwerethefirstseriousbusinesshehadtodothatdaythattherewereIndiansgoinguprivermdashheandoneothermdashto-daybeforenoonAndwhowastheotherLouisNeptunewholivesinthenexthouseWellletus go over and see Louis together The same doggish reception and LouisNeptune makes his appearancemdasha small wiry man with puckered andwrinkled face yet he seemed the chief man of the two the same as IrememberedwhohadaccompaniedJacksontothemountainin37Thesamequestions were put to Louis and the same information obtained while theotherIndianstoodbyItappearedthattheyweregoingtostartbynoonwithtwo canoes to go up to Chesuncook to huntmoosemdashto be gone amonthWell Louis suppose you get to the Point (to the Five Islands just belowMattawamkeag)tocampwewalkonuptheWestBranchtomorrowmdashfourofusmdashandwaitforyouatthedamorthissideYouovertakeusto-morrowornextdayandtakeusintoyourcanoesWestopforyouyoustopforusWepay you for your trouble Ye replied Louis may be you carry someprovisionforallmdashsomeporkmdashsomebreadmdashandsopayHesaidMesuregetsomemooseandwhenIaskedifhethoughtPomolawouldletusgoupheansweredthatwemustplantonebottleofrumonthetophehadplanted

goodmanyandwhenhelookedagaintherumwasallgoneHehadbeenuptwo or three times he had planted lettermdashEnglish German French etcThesemenwereslightlycladinshirtandpantaloonslikelaborerswithusinwarmweatherTheydidnotinviteusintotheirhousesbutmetusoutsideSowelefttheIndiansthinkingourselvesluckytohavesecuredsuchguidesandcompanionsTherewereveryfewhousesalongtheroadyettheydidnotaltogetherfailasif the lawbywhichmen are dispersedover theglobewere a very stringentone and not to be resistedwith impunity or for slight reasons TherewereeventhegermsofoneortwovillagesjustbeginningtoexpandThebeautyofthe road itself was remarkable The various evergreensmany of which arerarewithusmdashdelicateandbeautifulspecimensofthelarcharbor-vitaeligball-spruce and fir-balsam froma few inches tomany feet in heightmdashlined itssides in some places like a long front yard springing up from the smoothgrass-plotswhichuninterruptedlyborder itandaremadefertilebyitswashwhile it was but a step on either hand to the grim untrodden wildernesswhosetangledlabyrinthoflivingfallenanddecayingtreesonlythedeerandmoose thebear andwolf caneasilypenetrateMoreperfect specimens thananyfront-yardplotcanshowgrewthere togracethepassageof theHoultonteamsAbout noonwe reached theMattawamkeag fifty-sixmiles fromBangor bythewaywehadcomeandputupata frequentedhousestillon theHoultonroadwhere theHoulton stage stopsHerewas a substantial covered bridgeovertheMattawamkeagbuiltIthinktheysaidsomeseventeenyearsbeforeWehaddinnermdashwherebythewayandevenatbreakfastaswellassupperatthepublic-housesonthisroadthefrontrankiscomposedofvariouskindsofsweetcakesinacontinuouslinefromoneendofthetabletotheotherIthinkImaysafelysaythattherewasarowoftenoradozenplatesofthiskindset before us two here To account for which they say that when thelumbererscomeoutofthewoodstheyhaveacravingforcakesandpiesandsuchsweetthingswhichtherearealmostunknownandthisisthesupplytosatisfy that demand The supply is always equal to the demand and thesehungrymen think agooddeal of getting theirmoneysworthNodoubt thebalanceofvictualsisrestoredbythetimetheyreachBangormdashMattawamkeagtakesofftherawedgeWelloverthisfrontrankIsayyoucomingfromthesweet cake side with a cheap philosophic indifference though it may behave to assaultwhat there is behindwhich I donot by anymeansmean toinsinuateisinsufficientinquantityorqualitytosupplythatotherdemandofmennotfromthewoodsbutfromthetownsforvenisonandstrongcountryfareAfterdinnerwestrolleddowntothePointformedbythejunctionofthetworiverswhichissaidtobethesceneofanancientbattlebetweentheEastern Indians and the Mohawks and searched there carefully for relics

thoughthemenatthebar-roomhadneverheardofsuchthingsbutwefoundonly some flakesof arrowhead stone somepointsof arrowheadsone smallleadenbulletandsomecoloredbeadsthelasttobereferredperhapstoearlyfur-traderdaysTheMattawamkeagthoughwidewasamereriversbedfullofrocksandshallowsatthistimesothatyoucouldcrossitalmostdry-shodinbootsandIcouldhardlybelievemycompanionwhenhetoldmethathehadbeen fifty or sixty miles up it in a batteau through distant and still uncutforests A batteau could hardly find a harbor now at its mouth Deer andcaribouorreindeeraretakenhereinthewinterinsightofthehouseBeforeourcompanionsarrivedwerodeonuptheHoultonroadsevenmilestoMolunkuswhere theAroostook road comes into it andwhere there is aspaciouspublichouseinthewoodscalledtheMolunkusHousekeptbyoneLibbeywhich lookedas if ithad itshall fordancingand formilitarydrillsTherewasnootherevidenceofmanbutthishugeshinglepalaceinthispartoftheworld but sometimes even this is filledwith travelers I looked off thepiazza round thecornerof thehouseup theAroostookroadonwhich therewas no clearing in sight There was a man just adventuring upon it thisevening in a rude original what youmay call Aroostook wagonmdashamereseatwithawagonswungunderitafewbagsonitandadogasleeptowatchthem He offered to carry a message for us to anybody in that countrycheerfullyIsuspectthatifyoushouldgototheendoftheworldyouwouldfindsomebodytheregoingfartherasifjuststartingforhomeatsundownandhavingalastwordbeforehedroveoffHeretoowasasmalltraderwhomIdidnotseeatfirstwhokeptastoremdashbutnogreatstorecertainlymdashinasmallboxoverthewaybehindtheMolunkussign-postItlookedlikethebalance-boxofapatenthay-scalesAsforhishousewecouldonlyconjecturewherethat was he may have been a boarder in theMolunkus House I saw himstanding in his shopdoormdashhis shopwas so small that if a traveler shouldmakedemonstrationsofenteringinhewouldhavetogooutbythebackwayandconferwithhiscustomerthroughawindowabouthisgoodsinthecellarormoreprobablybespokenandyetonthewayIshouldhavegoneinforIfelt a real impulse to trade if I had not stopped to consider what wouldbecomeofhimThedaybeforewehadwalked intoashopoveragainstaninnwherewestoppedthepunybeginningoftradewhichwouldgrowatlastinto a firm copartnership in the future townor citymdashindeed itwas alreadySomebody amp Co I forget who The woman came forward from thepenetraliaof theattachedhouse for SomebodyampCowas in theburningand she sold us percussion-caps canaleacutes and smooth and knew their pricesandqualitiesandwhichthehunterspreferredHerewasalittleofeverythingin a small compass to satisfy thewants and the ambition of thewoodsmdashastockselectedwithwhatpainsandcareandbroughthomeinthewagon-boxor a corner of the Houlton team but there seemed to me as usual a

preponderance of childrens toysmdashdogs to bark and cats to mew andtrumpetstoblowwherenativestherehardlyareyetAsifachildbornintotheMainewoodsamongthepineconesandcedarberriescouldnotdowithoutsuchasugar-manorskipping-jackastheyoungRothschildhasIthinkthattherewasnotmorethanonehouseontheroadtoMolunkusorforsevenmilesAtthatplacewegotoverthefenceintoanewfieldplantedwithpotatoeswherethelogswerestillburningbetweenthehillsandpullingupthe vines found good-sized potatoes nearly ripe growing like weeds andturnipsmixedwiththemThemodeofclearingandplantingistofellthetreesandburnoncewhatwillburnthencutthemupintosuitablelengthsrollintoheapsandburnagainthenwithahoeplantpotatoeswhereyoucancomeatthe ground between the stumps and charred logs for a first crop the ashessufficingformanureandnohoeingbeingnecessarythefirstyearInthefallcutrollandburnagainandsoontillthelandisclearedandsoonitisreadyforgrainandtobelaiddownLetthosetalkofpovertyandhardtimeswhowillinthetownsandcitiescannottheemigrantwhocanpayhisfaretoNewYorkorBostonpay fivedollarsmore togetheremdashIpaid threeall told formypassagefromBostontoBangortwohundredandfiftymilesmdashandbeasrich as he pleases where land virtually costs nothing and houses only thelaborofbuildingandhemaybeginlifeasAdamdidIfhewillstillrememberthe distinction of poor and rich let him bespeak him a narrower houseforthwithWhenwereturnedtotheMattawamkeagtheHoultonstagehadalreadyputupthereandaProvincemanwasbetrayinghisgreennesstotheYankeesbyhisquestionsWhyProvincemoneywontpasshereatparwhenStatesmoneyisgoodatFrederictonmdashthoughthisperhapswassensibleenoughFromwhatIsawthenitappearsthattheProvincemanwasnowtheonlyrealJonathanorrawcountrybumpkinleftsofarbehindbyhisenterprisingneighborsthathedidntknowenough toput aquestion to themNopeoplecan longcontinueprovincialincharacterwhohavethepropensityforpoliticsandwhittlingandrapid traveling which the Yankees have and who are leaving the mothercountrybehindin thevarietyof theirnotionsandinventionsThepossessionand exercise of practical talent merely are a sure and rapid means ofintellectualcultureandindependenceThe lasteditionofGreenleafsMapofMainehungon thewallhereandaswehadnopocket-mapwe resolved to trace amapof the lake country Sodipping awad of tow into the lampwe oiled a sheet of paper on the oiledtable-clothand ingoodfaith tracedwhatweafterwardsascertainedtobealabyrinth of errors carefully following the outlines of the imaginary lakeswhich the map contains The Map of the Public Lands of Maine andMassachusettsistheonlyoneIhaveseenthatatalldeservesthenameItwas

whilewewere engaged in this operation that our companions arrivedTheyhadseentheIndiansfireontheFiveIslandsandsoweconcludedthatallwasrightEarlythenextmorningwehadmountedourpacksandpreparedforatrampuptheWestBranchmycompanionhavingturnedhishorseouttopastureforaweekor tendays thinking thatabiteof freshgrassanda tasteof runningwater would do him as much good as backwoods fare and new countryinfluences hismasterLeaping over a fencewebegan to follow an obscuretrailup thenorthernbankof thePenobscotTherewasnowno road furthertheriverbeingtheonlyhighwayandbuthalfadozenloghutsconfinedtoitsbanks to be met with for thirty miles On either hand and beyond was awhollyuninhabitedwilderness stretching toCanadaNeitherhorsenorcownorvehicleofanykindhadeverpassedoverthisgroundthecattleandthefewbulkyarticleswhichtheloggersusebeinggotupinthewinterontheiceand down again before it breaks up The evergreenwoods had a decidedlysweetandbracingfragrancetheairwasasortofdiet-drinkandwewalkedonbuoyantly in Indian file stretchingour legsOccasionally therewas a smallopeningonthebankmadeforthepurposeoflog-rollingwherewegotasightoftherivermdashalwaysarockyandripplingstreamTheroaroftherapidsthenoteofawhistlerduckontheriverofthejayandchickadeearoundusandofthepigeonwoodpeckerintheopeningswerethesoundsthatweheardThiswaswhatyoumightcallabran-newcountrytheonlyroadswereofNaturesmaking and the few houses were camps Here then one could no longeraccuseinstitutionsandsocietybutmustfrontthetruesourceofevilThere are three classes of inhabitants who either frequent or inhabit thecountrywhichwehadnowentered first the loggerswho forapartof theyear thewinter and spring are far themost numerous but in the summerexceptafewexplorersfortimbercompletelydesertitsecondthefewsettlersIhavenamedtheonlypermanentinhabitantswholiveonthevergeofitandhelp raise supplies for the former third the hunters mostly Indians whorangeoveritintheirseasonAttheendofthreemileswecametotheMattaseunkstreamandmillwheretherewasevenarudewoodenrailroadrunningdowntothePenobscotthelastrailroadweweretoseeWecrossedonetractonthebankoftheriverofmorethan a hundred acres of heavy timberwhich had just been felled and burntoverandwasstillsmokingOurtraillaythroughthemidstofitandwaswell-nigh blotted out The trees lay at full length four or five feet deep andcrossingeachotherinalldirectionsallblackascharcoalbutperfectlysoundwithin stillgoodfor fuelor for timber soon theywouldbecut into lengthsand burnt againHerewere thousands of cords enough to keep the poor ofBoston andNewYork amply warm for a winter which only cumbered the

ground and were in the settlers way And the whole of that solid andinterminable forest is doomed to be gradually devoured thus by fire likeshavingsandnomanbewarmedbyitAtCrockerslog-hutatthemouthofSalmon River seven miles from the Point one of the party commenceddistributingastoreofsmallcentpicture-booksamongthechildren to teachthem to read and also newspapersmore or less recent among the parentsthan which nothing can bemore acceptable to a backwoods people It wasreally an important item in our outfit and at times the only currency thatwould circulate Iwalked throughSalmonRiverwithmy shoeson it beinglowwaterbutnotwithoutwettingmyfeetAfewmiles fartherwecame toMarmHowardsattheendofanextensiveclearingwherethereweretwoorthreeloghutsinsightatonceoneontheoppositesideoftheriverandafew graves even surrounded by a wooden paling where already the rudeforefathersofahamletlieandathousandyearshenceperchancesomepoetwillwritehisElergyinaCountryChurchyardTheVillageHampdensthemute inglorious Miltons and Cromwells guiltless of their countrysbloodwereyetunbornPerchanceinthiswildspottherewillbelaidSomeheartoncepregnantwithcelestialfireHandsthattherodofempiremighthaveswayedOrwakedtoecstasythelivinglyreThenexthousewasFiskstenmilesfromthePointatthemouthoftheEastBranchopposite to the islandNicketowor theForks the last of the Indianislands I am particular to give the names of the settlers and the distancessinceeveryloghutinthesewoodsisapublichouseandsuchinformationisofno little consequence to thosewhomayhaveoccasion to travel thiswayOurcourseherecrossedthePenobscotandfollowedthesouthernbankOneof the party who entered the house in search of some one to set us overreported a very neat dwelling with plenty of books and a new wife justimportedfromBostonwhollynewtothewoodsWefoundtheEastBranchalargeandrapidstreamatitsmouthandmuchdeeperthanitappearedHavingwith somedifficultydiscovered the trail againwekeptup the south sideoftheWestBranchormainriverpassingbysomerapidscalledRock-Ebeemethe roar of which we heard through the woods and shortly after in thethickest of the wood some empty loggers camps still new which wereoccupied thepreviouswinterThoughwesawa fewmoreafterwards IwillmakeoneaccountserveforallTheseweresuchhousesas the lumberersofMainespend thewinter in in thewildernessTherewere thecampsand thehovels for the cattle hardly distinguishable except that the latter had nochimneyThesecampswereabout twenty feet longby fifteenwidebuilt oflogsmdashhemlock cedar spruce or yellow birchmdashone kind alone or all

togetherwith the bark on two or three large ones first one directly aboveanotherandnotched togetherat theends to theheightof threeor four feetthenofsmallerlogsrestingupontransverseonesattheendseachofthelastsuccessively shorter than the other to form the roof The chimney was anoblongsquareholeinthemiddlethreeorfourfeetindiameterwithafenceoflogsashighas theridgeThe intersticeswerefilledwithmossand theroofwas shingled with long and handsome splints of cedar or spruce or pineriftedwithasledgeandcleaverThefireplacethemostimportantplaceofallwasinshapeandsizelikethechimneyanddirectlyunderitdefinedbyalogfenceorfenderonthegroundandaheapofashesafootortwodeepwithinwithsolidbenchesofsplit logs runninground itHere thefireusuallymeltsthesnowanddriestherainbeforeitcandescendtoquenchitThefadedbedsofarbor-vitaelig leavesextendedunder theeavesoneitherhandTherewas theplace for thewater-pail pork-barrel andwash-basin and generally a dingypackofcardsleftonalogUsuallyagooddealofwhittlingwasexpendedonthelatchwhichwasmadeofwoodintheformofanirononeThesehousesaremadecomfortablebythehugefireswhichcanbeaffordednightanddayUsually thesceneryabout themisdrearandsavageenoughandtheloggerscamp is as completely in the woods as a fungus at the foot of a pine in aswampnooutlookbuttotheskyoverheadnomoreclearingthanismadebycuttingdownthetreesofwhichitisbuiltandthosewhicharenecessaryforfuelIfonlyitbewellshelteredandconvenienttohisworkandnearaspringhewastesnothoughtontheprospectTheyareveryproperforesthousesthestemsof the trees collected together andpileduparoundaman tokeepoutwindandrainmdashmadeoflivinggreenlogshangingwithmossandlichenandwith thecurls and fringesof theyellowbirchbark anddrippingwith resinfresh andmoist and redolent of swampy odorswith that sort of vigor andperennialness even about them that toadstools suggest The loggers fareconsists of tea molasses flour pork (sometimes beef) and beans A greatproportion of the beans raised inMassachusetts find their market here OnexpeditionsitisonlyhardbreadandporkoftenrawsliceuponslicewithteaorwaterasthecasemaybeThe primitive wood is always and everywhere damp and mossy so that ItraveledconstantlywiththeimpressionthatIwasinaswampandonlywhenitwasremarkedthatthisorthattractjudgingfromthequalityofthetimberonitwouldmakeaprofitableclearingwasIremindedthatifthesunwereletinitwouldmakeadryfieldlikethefewIhadseenatonceThebestshodforthemostparttravelwithwetfeetIfthegroundwassowetandspongyatthisthe dryest part of a dry season what must it be in the spring The woodshereaboutsaboundedinbeechandyellowbirchofwhichlastthereweresomevery large specimens also spruce cedar fir andhemlockbutwe sawonlythe stumpsof thewhitepinehere someof themofgreat size thesehaving

been already culled out being the only treemuch sought after even as lowdownas thisOnlya littlespruceandhemlockbesidehadbeen loggedhereThe Eastern wood which is sold for fuel in Massachusetts all comes frombelowBangorItwasthepinealonechieflythewhitepinethathadtemptedanybutthehuntertoprecedeusonthisrouteWaites farm thirteen miles from the Point is an extensive and elevatedclearingfromwhichwegotafineviewoftheriverripplingandgleamingfarbeneathusMycompanionshadformerlyhadagoodviewofKtaadnandtheothermountainsherebutto-dayitwassosmokythatwecouldseenothingofthem We could overlook an immense country of uninterrupted foreststretching away up the East Branch toward Canada on the north andnorthwest and toward the Aroostook valley on the northeast and imaginewhatwildlifewasstirringinitsmidstHerewasquiteafieldofcornforthisregionwhosepeculiardryscentweperceivedathirdofamileoffbeforewesawitEighteenmiles fromthePointbroughtus insightofMcCauslinsorUncleGeorges as hewas familiarly called bymy companions towhomhewaswellknownwhereweintendedtobreakourlongfastHishousewasinthemidstofanextensiveclearingorintervaleatthemouthoftheLittleSchoodicRiveron theoppositeornorthbankof thePenobscotSowecollectedonapointoftheshorethatwemightbeseenandfiredourgunasasignalwhichbroughtouthisdogs forthwith and thereafter theirmasterwho indue timetookusacrossinhisbatteauThisclearingwasboundedabruptlyonallsidesbuttheriverbythenakedstemsoftheforestasifyouweretocutonlyafewfeet square in the midst of a thousand acres of mowing and set down athimble thereinHehadawholeheavenandhorizon tohimselfand thesunseemed to be journeying over his clearing only the livelong day Here weconcluded to spend the night and wait for the Indians as there was nostopping-placesoconvenientaboveHehadseennoIndianspassandthisdidnotoftenhappenwithouthisknowledgeHethoughtthathisdogssometimesgavenoticeoftheapproachofIndianshalfanhourbeforetheyarrivedMcCauslinwasaKennebecmanofScotchdescentwhohadbeenawatermantwenty-two years and had driven on the lakes and headwaters of thePenobscotfiveorsixspringsinsuccessionbutwasnowsettledheretoraisesuppliesforthelumberersandforhimselfHeentertainedusadayortwowithtrueScotchhospitalityandwouldacceptnorecompenseforitAmanofadrywitandshrewdnessandageneralintelligencewhichIhadnotlookedforinthe backwoods In fact the deeper you penetrate into thewoods themoreintelligentandinonesenselesscountrifieddoyoufindtheinhabitantsforalways the pioneer has been a traveler and to some extent a man of theworld and as the distanceswithwhich he is familiar are greater so is his

informationmoregeneralandfarreachingthanthevillagersIfIweretolookforanarrowuninformedandcountrifiedmindasopposedtotheintelligenceandrefinementwhicharethoughttoemanatefromcitiesitwouldbeamongtherustyinhabitantsofanold-settledcountryonfarmsallrunoutandgonetoseedwithlife-everlastinginthetownsaboutBostonevenonthehigh-roadinConcordandnotinthebackwoodsofMaineSupperwasgotbeforeoureyes in theamplekitchenbyafirewhichwouldhaveroastedanoxmanywhole logs fourfeet longwereconsumedtoboilour tea-kettlemdashbirchorbeechormaple thesamesummerandwinterandthedishesweresoonsmokingonthetablelatethearm-chairagainstthewallfromwhichoneof thepartywasexpelledThearmsof thechairformedtheframe on which the table rested and when the round top was turned upagainstthewallitformedthebackofthechairandwasnomoreinthewaythanthewall itselfThiswenoticedwastheprevailingfashionintheseloghousesinordertoeconomizeinroomTherewerepiping-hotwheatencakestheflourhavingbeenbroughtuptheriverinbatteauxmdashnoIndianbreadfortheupperpartofMaineitwillberememberedisawheatcountrymdashandhameggs and potatoes andmilk and cheese the produce of the farm and alsoshad and salmon tea sweetened with molasses and sweet cakes incontradistinction to the hot cakes not sweetened the one white the otheryellowtowindupwithSuchwefoundwastheprevailingfareordinaryandextraordinary along this riverMountain cranberries (VacciniumVitis-Idaeliga)stewed and sweetened were the common dessert Everything here was inprofusion and the best of its kind Butter was in such plenty that it wascommonlyusedbeforeitwassaltedtogreasebootswithIn the night we were entertained by the sound of rain-drops on the cedarsplintswhichcovered theroofandawakedthenextmorningwithadroportwoinoureyes Ithadset inforastormandwemadeupourmindsnot toforsakesuchcomfortablequarterswiththisprospectbutwaitforIndiansandfair weather It rained and drizzled and gleamed by turns the livelong dayWhatwedidtherehowwekilledthetimewouldperhapsbeidletotellhowmanytimeswebutteredourbootsandhowoftenadrowsyonewasseen tosidleoff to thebedroomWhen itheldup I strolledupanddown thebankandgatheredtheharebellandcedarberrieswhichgrewthereorelsewetriedbyturnsthelong-handledaxeonthelogsbeforethedoorTheaxe-helvesherewere made to chop standing on the logmdasha primitive log of coursemdashandwerethereforenearlyafootlongerthanwithusOnewhilewewalkedoverthe farm and visited his well-filled barns withMcCauslin There were oneothermanandtwowomenonlyhereHekepthorsescowsoxenandsheepIthinkhe said thathewas the first tobringaplowanda cowso far andhemighthaveaddedthelastwithonlytwoexceptionsThepotato-rothadfoundhimout here too the previous year and got half or two thirds of his crop

though the seedwas of his own raising Oats grass and potatoeswere hisstaplesbutheraisedalsoafewcarrotsandturnipsandalittlecornforthehens for this was all that he dared risk for fear that it would not ripenMelons squashes sweet corn beans tomatoes andmany other vegetablescouldnotberipenedthereThe very few settlers along this stream were obviously tempted by thecheapnessofthelandmainlyWhenIaskedMcCauslinwhymoresettlersdidnotcomeinheansweredthatonereasonwastheycouldnotbuythelanditbelonged to individuals or companieswhowere afraid that theirwild landswouldbesettledandsoincorporatedintotownsandtheybetaxedforthembut to settlingon theStates land therewasno suchhindranceForhis ownparthewantednoneighborsmdashhedidntwish to seeany roadbyhishouseNeighborseventhebestwereatroubleandexpenseespeciallyonthescoreofcattleandfencesTheymightliveacrosstheriverperhapsbutnotonthesamesideThechickensherewereprotectedby thedogsAsMcCauslinsaidTheoldonetookitupfirstandshetaughtthepupandnowtheyhadgotitintotheirheadsthatitwouldntdotohaveanythingofthebirdkindonthepremisesAhawk hovering over was not allowed to alight but barked off by the dogscirclingunderneath and a pigeon or a yellow-hammer as they called thepigeonwoodpeckeronadead limborstumpwas instantlyexpelled Itwasthemainbusinessof their day andkept themconstantly comingandgoingOnewouldrushoutofthehouseontheleastalarmgivenbytheotherWhenitrainedhardestwereturnedtothehouseandtookdownatractfromthe shelfTherewas the Wandering Jew cheap edition and fineprint theCriminalCalendarandParishsGeographyandflashnovelstwoorthreeUnderthepressureofcircumstanceswereadalittleintheseWithsuchaidthe press is not so feeble an engine after all This housewhichwas a fairspecimen of those on this river was built of huge logs which peeped outeverywhere andwerechinkedwithclayandmoss It contained fouror fiveroomsTherewerenosawedboardsorshinglesorclapboardsaboutitandscarcelyanytoolbuttheaxehadbeenusedinitsconstructionThepartitionswere made of long clapboard-like splints of spruce or cedar turned to adelicatesalmon-colorbythesmokeTheroofandsideswerecoveredwiththesame instead of shingles and clapboards and some of a much thicker andlargersizewereusedforthefloorThesewereallsostraightandsmooththattheyansweredthepurposeadmirablyandacarelessobserverwouldnothavesuspectedthattheywerenotsawedandplanedThechimneyandhearthwereofvastsizeandmadeofstoneThebroomwasafewtwigsofarbor-vitaeligtiedtoastickandapolewassuspendedoverthehearthclosetotheceilingtodrystockingsandclothesonInoticedthatthefloorwasfullofsmalldingyholes

asifmadewithagimletbutwhichwereinfactmadebythespikesnearlyaninchlongwhichthelumbererswearintheirbootstopreventtheirslippingonwetlogsJustaboveMcCauslinsthereisarockyrapidwherelogsjaminthespringandmanydriversaretherecollectedwhofrequenthishouseforsuppliestheseweretheirtrackswhichIsawAtsundownMcCauslinpointedawayovertheforestacrosstherivertosignsoffairweatheramidthecloudsmdashsomeeveningrednessthereForeventherethe points of compass held and there was a quarter of the heavensappropriatedtosunriseandanothertosunsetThe next morning the weather proving fair enough for our purpose wepreparedtostartandtheIndianshavingfaileduspersuadedMcCauslinwhowasnotunwillingtorevisitthescenesofhisdrivingtoaccompanyusintheirstead intending to engage one other boatman on thewayA strip of cottonclothforatentacoupleofblanketswhichwouldsufficeforthewholepartyfifteenpoundsofhardbreadtenpoundsofclearporkandalittleteamadeup Uncle Georges pack The last three articles were calculated to beprovisionenoughforsixmenforaweekwithwhatwemightpickupAtea-kettle a frying-pan and an axe to be obtained at the last house wouldcompleteouroutfitWeweresoonoutofMcCauslinsclearingandintheevergreenwoodsagainTheobscuretrailmadebythetwosettlersabovewhicheventhewoodmanissometimes puzzled to discern ere long crossed a narrow open strip in thewoods overrun with weeds called the Burnt Land where a fire had ragedformerlystretchingnorthwardnineor tenmiles toMillinocketLakeAt theendof threemileswereachedShadPondorNoliseemackanexpansionoftheriverHodgetheAssistantStateGeologistwhopassedthroughthisonthe25th of June 1837 says We pushed our boat through an acre ormore ofbuck-beans which had taken root at the bottom and bloomed above thesurfaceinthegreatestprofusionandbeautyThomasFowlershouseisfourmiles from McCauslins on the shore of the pond at the mouth of theMillinocket River and eightmiles from the lake of the same name on thelatter stream This lake affords a more direct course to Ktaadn but wepreferred to follow the Penobscot and the Pamadumcook lakes FowlerwasjustcompletinganewloghutandwassawingoutawindowthroughthelogsnearlytwofeetthickwhenwearrivedHehadbeguntopaperhishousewithsprucebark turned insideoutwhichhadagoodeffect andwas inkeepingwiththecircumstancesInsteadofwaterwegothereadraughtofbeerwhichitwasallowedwouldbebetterclearandthinbutstrongandstringentasthecedarsapItwasasifwesuckedattheveryteatsofNaturespine-cladbosominthesepartsmdashthesapofallMillinocketbotanycommingledmdashthetopmostmost fantastic and spiciest sprays of the primitive wood and whatever

invigoratingandstringentgumoressenceitaffordedsteepedanddissolvedinitmdashalumberersdrinkwhichwouldacclimateandnaturalizeamanatoncemdashwhichwouldmakehimseegreenandifhesleptdreamthatheheardthewindsoughamongthepinesHerewasafifeprayingtobeplayedonthroughwhichwebreathedafewtunefulstrainsmdashbroughthithertotamewildbeastsAs we stood upon the pile of chips by the door fish hawks were sailingoverheadandhereoverShadPondmightdailybewitnessedthetyrannyofthebaldeagleoverthatbirdTompointedawayoverthelaketoabaldeaglesnestwhichwasplainlyvisiblemorethanamileoffonapinehighabovethesurroundingforestandwasfrequentedfromyeartoyearbythesamepairandheldsacredbyhimTherewerethesetwohousesonlytherehislowhutandtheeaglesairycart-loadoffagotsThomasFowlertoowaspersuadedtojoinusfortwomenwerenecessarytomanagethebatteauwhichwassoontobeourcarriageandthesemenneededtobecoolandskillfulforthenavigationofthePenobscotTomspackwassoonmadeforhehadnotfartolookforhiswatermans boots and a red flannel shirt This is the favorite color withlumbermenandredflannelisreputedtopossesssomemysteriousvirtuestobe most healthful and convenient in respect to perspiration In every gangtherewillbea largeproportionof redbirdsWe tookhereapoorand leakybatteauandbegantopoleuptheMillinockettwomilestotheelderFowlersinordertoavoidtheGrandFallsofthePenobscotintendingtoexchangeourbatteau there for a better The Millinocket is a small shallow and sandystreamfullofwhatItooktobelamprey-eelsorsuckersnestsandlinedwithmusquash-cabinsbut free from rapids according toFowler exceptingat itsoutletfromthelakeHewasatthistimeengagedincuttingthenativegrassmdashrush-grass andmeadow-clover as he called itmdashon themeadows and smalllowislandsof thisstreamWenoticedflattenedplaces in thegrassoneitherside where he said a moose had laid down the night before adding thattherewerethousandsinthesemeadowsOldFowlersontheMillinocketsixmilesfromMcCauslinsandtwenty-fourfrom thePoint is the lasthouseGibsonson theSowadnehunk is theonlyclearing above but that had proved a failure and was long since desertedFowleristheoldestinhabitantofthesewoodsHeformerlylivedafewmilesfrom here on the south side of theWest Branch where he built his housesixteenyearsago thefirsthousebuiltabove theFiveIslandsHereournewbatteauwastobecarriedoverthefirstportageoftwomilesroundtheGrandFalls of the Penobscot on a horse-sled made of saplings to jump thenumerousrocksinthewaybutwehadtowaitacoupleofhoursforthemtocatchthehorseswhichwerepasturedatadistanceamidthestumpsandhadwanderedstillfartheroffThelastofthesalmonforthisseasonhadjustbeencaughtandwerestillfreshinpicklefromwhichenoughwasextractedtofillouremptykettleandsograduateourintroductiontosimplerforestfareThe

week before they had lost nine sheep here out of their first flock by thewolvesThe surviving sheep came round the house and seemed frightenedwhichinducedthemtogoandlookfortherestwhentheyfoundsevendeadandlaceratedandtwostillaliveTheselasttheycarriedtothehouseandasMrsFowlersaidtheyweremerelyscratchedinthethroatandhadnomorevisiblewoundthanwouldbeproducedbytheprickofapinSheshearedoffthe wool from their throats andwashed them and put on some salve andturnedthemoutbut inafewmomentstheyweremissingandhadnotbeenfoundsinceInfacttheywereallpoisonedandthosethatwerefoundswelledup at once so that they saved neither skin nor wool This realized the oldfables of the wolves and the sheep and convinced me that that ancienthostility still existedVerily the shepherd-boydidnot need to sound a falsealarm this time There were steel traps by the door of various sizes forwolves otter and bears with large claws instead of teeth to catch in theirsinewsWolvesarefrequentlykilledwithpoisonedbaitAt length afterwe had dined here on the usual backwoods fare the horsesarrivedandwehauledourbatteauoutofthewaterandlashedittoitswickercarriageand throwing inourpackswalkedonbefore leaving theboatmenanddriverwhowasTomsbrothertomanagetheconcernTheroutewhichledthroughthewildpasturewherethesheepwerekilledwasinsomeplacestheroughestevertraveledbyhorsesoverrockyhillswherethesledbouncedandslidalonglikeavesselpitchinginastormandonemanwasasnecessarytostandatthesterntopreventtheboatfrombeingwreckedasahelmsmaninthe roughest sea The philosophy of our progress was something like thiswhentherunnersstruckarockthreeorfourfeethighthesledbouncedbackandupwardsatthesametimebutasthehorsesneverceasedpullingitcamedown on the top of the rock and so we got over This portage probablyfollowedthetrailofanancientIndiancarryroundthesefallsBytwooclockwewhohadwalkedonbeforereachedtheriverabovethefallsnotfarfromthe outlet ofQuakishLake andwaited for the batteau to comeupWehadbeenherebutashorttimewhenathunder-showerwasseencomingupfromthewestoverthestillinvisiblelakesandthatpleasantwildernesswhichweweresoeagertobecomeacquaintedwithandsoontheheavydropsbegantopatterontheleavesaroundusIhadjustselectedtheprostratetrunkofahugepinefiveorsixfeetindiameterandwascrawlingunderitwhenluckilytheboatarrivedItwouldhaveamusedashelteredmantowitnessthemannerinwhichitwasunlashedandwhirledoverwhilethefirstwaterspoutburstuponusItwasnosoonerinthehandsoftheeagercompanythanitwasabandonedtothefirstrevolutionaryimpulseandtogravity toadjust itandtheymighthavebeen seenall stooping to its shelter andwrigglingunder like somanyeels before itwas fairlydepositedon thegroundWhen allwereunderwepropped up the lee side and busied ourselves therewhittling thole-pins for

rowingwhenweshouldreach the lakesandmadethewoodsringbetweentheclapsofthunderwithsuchboat-songsaswecouldrememberThehorsesstood sleek and shining with the rain all drooping and crestfallen whiledelugeafterdelugewashedoverusbutthebottomofaboatmaybereliedonforatightroofAtlengthaftertwohoursdelayatthisplaceastreakoffairweatherappeared in thenorthwestwhitherourcoursenow laypromisingasereneeveningforourvoyageandthedriverreturnedwithhishorseswhilewemadehastetolaunchourboatandcommenceourvoyageingoodearnestThereweresixofus including the twoboatmenWithourpacksheapedupnear the bows and ourselves disposed as baggage to trim the boat withinstructionsnot tomoveincaseweshouldstrikearockmorethansomanybarrels of porkwe pushed out into the first rapid a slight specimen of thestreamwehad tonavigateWithUncleGeorge in the stern andTom in thebowseachusingasprucepoleabouttwelvefeetlongpointedwithironandpolingonthesamesideweshotuptherapidslikeasalmonthewaterrushingand roaring around so that only a practiced eye could distinguish a safecourse or tell whatwas deepwater andwhat rocks frequently grazing thelatterononeorbothsideswithahundredasnarrowescapesasevertheArgohadinpassingthroughtheSymplegadesIwhohadhadsomeexperienceinboatinghadneverexperiencedanyhalfsoexhilaratingbeforeWewereluckytohaveexchangedourIndianswhomwedidnotknowforthesemenwhotogetherwithTomsbrotherwerereputedthebestboatmenontheriverandwere at once indispensable pilots and pleasant companions The canoe issmallermoreeasilyupsetandsoonerwornoutandtheIndianissaidnottobesoskillfulinthemanagementofthebatteauHeisforthemostpartlesstobe reliedon andmoredisposed to sulks andwhimsTheutmost familiaritywith dead streams or with the ocean would not prepare a man for thispeculiarnavigationandthemostskillfulboatmananywhereelsewouldherebeobligedtotakeouthisboatandcarryroundahundredtimesstillwithgreatrisk as well as delay where the practiced batteau-man poles up withcomparative ease and safety The hardy voyageur pushes with incredibleperseveranceandsuccessquiteuptothefootofthefallsandthenonlycarriesroundsomeperpendicularledgeandlaunchesagaininThetorrentssmoothnessereitdashbelowtostrugglewiththeboilingrapidsaboveTheIndianssaythattheriveronceranbothwaysonehalfupandtheotherdownbutthatsincethewhitemancame it all runs down and now they must laboriously pole their canoesagainstthestreamandcarrythemovernumerousportagesInthesummerallstoresmdashthegrindstoneandtheplowofthepioneerflourporkandutensilsforthe explorermdashmustbe conveyedup the river inbatteaux andmanya cargoandmanyaboatmanislostinthesewatersInthewinterhoweverwhichis

very equable and long the ice is the great highway and the loggers teampenetrates toChesuncookLake and stillhigherup even twohundredmilesaboveBangor Imagine the solitary sled-track running farup into the snowyand evergreen wilderness hemmed in closely for a hundred miles by theforest and again stretching straight across the broad surfaces of concealedlakesWeweresooninthesmoothwateroftheQuakishLakeandtookourturnsatrowingandpaddlingacrossitItisasmallirregularbuthandsomelakeshutinonallsidesbytheforestandshowingnotracesofmanbutsomelowboominadistantcovereservedforspringuseThespruceandcedaronitsshoreshungwith gray lichens looked at a distance like the ghosts of treesDuckswere sailing here and there on its surface and a solitary loon like amorelivingwavemdashavitalspoton the lakessurfacemdashlaughedandfrolickedandshoweditsstraightlegforouramusementJoeMerryMountainappearedinthenorthwestasifitwerelookingdownonthislakeespeciallyandwehadourfirstbutapartialviewofKtaadnitssummitveiledincloudslikeadarkisthmusinthatquarterconnectingtheheavenswiththeearthAftertwomilesof smooth rowing across this lake we found ourselves in the river againwhich was a continuous rapid for one mile to the dam requiring all thestrengthandskillofourboatmentopoleupitThis dam is a quite important and expensivework for this countrywhithercattleandhorsescannotpenetrate in thesummer raising thewholeriver tenfeet and flooding as they said some sixty square miles by means of theinnumerable lakes with which the river connects It is a lofty and solidstructure with sloping piers some distance above made of frames of logsfilled with stones to break the ice Here every log pays toll as it passesthroughthesluicesWe filed into the rude loggers campat thisplace suchas IhavedescribedwithoutceremonyandthecookatthatmomentthesoleoccupantatoncesetaboutpreparingteaforhisvisitorsHisfireplacewhichtherainhadconvertedinto a mud-puddle was soon blazing again and we sat down on the logbenchesaroundittodryusOnthewell-flattenedandsomewhatfadedbedsofarbor-vitaelig leaveswhichstretchedoneitherhandunder theeavesbehinduslay an odd leaf of the Bible some genealogical chapter out of the OldTestament and half buried by the leaves we found Emersons Address onWest India Emancipationwhich had been left here formerly by one of ourcompanyandhadmadetwoconvertstotheLibertypartyhereasIwastoldalso an odd number of theWestminster Review for 1834 and a pamphletentitled History of the Erection of theMonument on the Grave ofMyronHollyThiswas the readableor readingmatter in a lumberers camp in theMainewoodsthirtymilesfromaroadwhichwouldbegivenuptothebears

in a fortnight These things were well thumbed and soiled This gang washeaded by one John Morrison a good specimen of a Yankee and wasnecessarily composed ofmen not bred to the business of dam-building butwho were jacks-at-all-trades handy with the axe and other simpleimplements andwell skilled inwoodandwatercraftWehadhotcakes forour supperevenherewhiteas snowballsbutwithoutbutter and thenever-failing sweet cakes with which we filled our pockets foreseeing that weshould not soonmeetwith the like again Such delicate puffballs seemed asingulardietforbackwoodsmenTherewasalsoteawithoutmilksweetenedwithmolassesAndsoexchangingawordwithJohnMorrisonandhisgangwhen we had returned to the shore and also exchanging our batteau for abetter stillwemadehaste to improve the little daylight that remainedThiscamp exactly twenty-ninemiles fromMattawamkeag Point by thewaywehad come and about one hundred from Bangor by the river was the lasthumanhabitationofanykindinthisdirectionBeyondtherewasnotrailandthe river and lakes by batteaux and canoes was considered the onlypracticablerouteWewereaboutthirtymilesbytheriverfromthesummitofKtaadn which was in sight though not more than twenty perhaps in astraightlineIt being about the full of the moon and a warm and pleasant evening wedecidedtorowfivemilesbymoonlight totheheadof theNorthTwinLakelest thewindshouldriseonthemorrowAfteronemileofriverorwhattheboatmen call thoroughfaremdashfor the river becomes at length only theconnecting link between the lakesmdashand some slight rapid which had beenmostlymadesmoothwaterbythedamweenteredtheNorthTwinLakejustafter sundown and steered across for the river thoroughfare four milesdistant This is a noble sheet of water where one may get the impressionwhichanewcountryandalakeofthewoodsarefittedtocreateTherewasthesmokeofno loghutnorcampofanykind togreetusstill lesswasanyloverofnatureormusingtravelerwatchingourbatteaufromthedistanthillsnoteventheIndianhunterwasthereforherarelyclimbsthembuthugstheriverlikeourselvesNofacewelcomedusbutthefinefantasticspraysoffreeandhappyevergreen treeswavingoneaboveanother in theirancienthomeAtfirsttheredcloudshungoverthewesternshoreasgorgeouslyasifoveracity and the lake lay open to the light with even a civilized aspect as ifexpectingtradeandcommerceandtownsandvillasWecoulddistinguishtheinlet to theSouthTwinwhich is said tobe the largerwhere the shorewasmisty and blue and it was worth the while to look thus through a narrowopeningacrosstheentireexpanseofaconcealedlaketoitsownyetmoredimanddistantshoreTheshoresrosegentlytorangesoflowhillscoveredwithforestsand though in fact themostvaluablewhite-pine timberevenaboutthis lake hadbeen culledout thiswouldneverhavebeen suspectedby the

voyagerTheimpressionwhichindeedcorrespondedwiththefactwasasifwewereuponahightable-landbetweentheStatesandCanadathenorthernsideofwhich isdrainedby theSt JohnandChaudiegravere the southernby thePenobscotandKennebecTherewasnoboldmountainousshoreaswemighthaveexpectedbutonlyisolatedhillsandmountainsrisinghereandtherefromtheplateauThecountryisanarchipelagooflakesmdashthelake-countryofNewEnglandTheirlevelsvarybutafewfeetandtheboatmenbyshortportagesorbynoneatallpasseasilyfromonetoanotherTheysaythatatveryhighwaterthePenobscotandtheKennebecflowintoeachotheroratanyratethatyoumay liewith your face in the one and your toes in the other Even thePenobscotandStJohnhavebeenconnectedbyacanalsothatthelumberoftheAllegashinsteadofgoingdowntheStJohncomesdownthePenobscotand the Indians tradition that the Penobscot once ran both ways for hisconvenienceisinonesensepartiallyrealizedto-dayNoneofourpartybutMcCauslinhadbeenabove this lakesowe trusted tohimtopilotusandwecouldnotbutconfesstheimportanceofapilotonthesewatersWhileitisriveryouwillnoteasilyforgetwhichwayisup-streambutwhenyouentera lake the river iscompletely lost andyouscan thedistantshores invain to findwhere it comes inAstranger is for the timeat leastlostandmustsetaboutavoyageofdiscoveryfirstofalltofindtheriverTofollowthewindingsoftheshorewhenthelakeistenmilesorevenmoreinlengthandofanirregularitywhichwillnotsoonbemappedisawearisomevoyageandwillspendhistimeandhisprovisionsTheytellastoryofagangofexperiencedwoodmensenttoalocationonthisstreamwhowerethuslostin thewilderness of lakes They cut theirway through thickets and carriedtheirbaggageandtheirboatsoverfromlaketolakesometimesseveralmilesThey carried intoMillinocket Lake which is on another stream and is tenmiles square and contains a hundred islands They explored its shoresthoroughlyand thencarried intoanother andanother and itwasaweekoftoilandanxietybefore they found thePenobscotRiveragainand then theirprovisionswereexhaustedandtheywereobligedtoreturnWhileUncleGeorgesteeredforasmallislandneartheheadofthelakenowjust visible like a speck on the water we rowed by turns swiftly over itssurfacesingingsuchboatsongsaswecouldrememberTheshoresseemedatanindefinitedistanceinthemoonlightOccasionallywepausedinoursingingandrestedonouroarswhilewelistenedtohearifthewolveshowledforthisis a common serenade and my companions affirmed that it was the mostdismal and unearthly of sounds butwe heard none this time Ifwe did nothearhoweverwedidlistennotwithoutareasonableexpectationthatatleastI have to tellmdashonly some utterly uncivilized big-throated owl hooted loudanddismallyinthedrearandboughywildernessplainlynotnervousabouthissolitarylifenorafraidtoheartheechoesofhisvoicethereWeremembered

alsothatpossiblymooseweresilentlywatchingusfromthedistantcovesorsomesurlybearortimidcaribouhadbeenstartledbyoursingingItwaswithnewemphasisthatwesangtheretheCanadianboatsongmdashRowbrothersrowthestreamrunsfastTherapidsarenearandthedaylightspastwhich describes precisely our own adventure and was inspired by theexperienceof a similar kindof lifemdashfor the rapidswere ever near and thedaylightlongpastthewoodsonshorelookeddimandmanyanUtawastidehereemptiedintothelakeWhyshouldweyetoursailunfurlThereisnotabreaththebluewavetocurlButwhenthewindblowsofftheshoreOhsweetlywellrestourwearyoarUtawastidethistremblingmoonShallseeusfloatoerthysurgessoonAt last we glided past the green isle which had been our landmark alljoininginthechorusasifbythewaterylinksofriversandoflakeswewereabout to float over unmeasured zones of earth bound on unimaginableadventuresmdashSaintofthisgreenislehearourprayersOhgrantuscoolheavensandfavoringairsAboutnineoclockwereachedtheriverandranourboatintoanaturalhavenbetween some rocks and drew her out on the sand This camping-groundMcCauslinhadbeenfamiliarwithinhislumberingdaysandhenowstruckitunerringlyin themoonlightandweheardthesoundof therillwhichwouldsupply uswith coolwater emptying into the lakeThe first businesswas tomakeafireanoperationwhichwasalittledelayedbythewetnessofthefuelandthegroundowingtotheheavyshowersoftheafternoonThefireisthemaincomfortofthecampwhetherinsummerorwinterandisaboutasampleatone seasonas at another It is aswell for cheerfulness as forwarmthanddrynessItformsonesideofthecamponebrightsideatanyrateSomeweredispersed to fetch in dead trees and boughs whileUncleGeorge felled thebirchesandbeecheswhichstoodconvenientandsoonwehadafiresometenfeet longby threeor four highwhich rapidlydried the sandbefore itThiswascalculated toburnallnightWenextproceeded topitchour tentwhichoperationwasperformedbystickingourtwospike-polesintothegroundinaslantingdirectionabouttenfeetapartforraftersandthendrawingourcottonclothoverthemandtyingitdownattheendsleavingitopeninfrontshed-

fashionButthiseveningthewindcarriedthesparksontothetentandburneditSowehastilydrewupthebatteaujustwithintheedgeofthewoodsbeforethefireandproppinguponesidethreeorfourfeethighspreadthetentontheground to lieon andwith the cornerof ablanket orwhatmoreor lesswecouldgettoputoveruslaydownwithourheadsandbodiesundertheboatandourfeetandlegsonthesandtowardthefireAtfirstwelayawaketalkingofour course and findingourselves in soconvenient aposture for studyingthe heavenswith themoon and stars shining in our faces our conversationnaturally turned upon astronomy and we recounted by turns the mostinterestingdiscoveries in that scienceBut at lengthwe composedourselvesseriouslytosleepItwasinterestingwhenawakenedatmidnighttowatchthegrotesqueandfiend-likeformsandmotionsofsomeoneofthepartywhonotbeingabletosleephadgotupsilentlytoarousethefireandaddfreshfuelforachangenowstealthilyluggingadeadtreefromoutthedarkandheavingitonnowstirringuptheemberswithhisforkortiptoeingabouttoobservethestarswatchedperchancebyhalftheprostratepartyinbreathlesssilencesomuchthemoreintensebecausetheywereawakewhileeachsupposedhisneighborsoundasleepThusarousedItoobroughtfreshfueltothefireandthenrambledalongthesandyshoreinthemoonlighthopingtomeetamoosecome down to drink or else a wolf The little rill tinkled the louder andpeopledall thewildernessformeandtheglassysmoothnessofthesleepinglake laving the shores of a newworldwith the dark fantastic rocks risinghereandtherefromitssurfacemadeascenenoteasilydescribedIthasleftsuchan impressionof sternyetgentlewildnessonmymemoryaswillnotsoonbeeffacedNotfarfrommidnightwewereoneafteranotherawakenedbyrainfallingonourextremitiesandaseachwasmadeawareofthefactbycoldorwethedrewalongsighandthendrewuphislegsuntilgraduallywehad all sidled round from lying at right angleswith theboat till our bodiesformed an acute angle with it and were wholly protected When next weawokethemoonandstarswereshiningagainandthereweresignsofdawnintheeastIhavebeenthusparticularinordertoconveysomeideaofanightinthewoodsWehadsoonlaunchedandloadedourboatandleavingourfireblazingwereoffagainbeforebreakfastThelumberersrarelytroublethemselvestoputouttheirfiressuchisthedampnessoftheprimitiveforestandthisisonecausenodoubtofthefrequentfiresinMaineofwhichwehearsomuchonsmokydaysinMassachusettsTheforestsareheldcheapafterthewhitepinehasbeenculled out and the explorers and hunters pray for rain only to clear theatmosphereofsmokeThewoodsweresowetto-dayhoweverthattherewasno danger of our fire spreading After poling up half a mile of river orthoroughfarewerowedamileacrossthefootofPamadumcookLakewhichisthenamegivenonthemaptothiswholechainoflakesasiftherewasbut

one though theyare ineach instancedistinctlyseparatedbya reachof theriverwithitsnarrowandrockychannelanditsrapidsThislakewhichisoneof the largest stretched northwest ten miles to hills and mountains in thedistanceMcCauslinpointedtosomedistantandasyetinaccessibleforestsofwhitepineonthesidesofamountaininthatdirectionTheJoeMerryLakeswhichlaybetweenusandMooseheadonthewestwererecentlyiftheyarenot still surrounded by some of the best timbered land in the State Byanother thoroughfare we passed into Deep Cove a part of the same lakewhichmakesuptwomilestowardthenortheastandrowingtwomilesacrossthisbyanothershortthoroughfareenteredAmbejijisLakeAt the entrance to a lakewe sometimes observedwhat is technically calledfencing-stuff or the unhewn timbers of which booms are formed eithersecuredtogetherinthewaterorlaidupontherocksandlashedtotreesforspringuseButitwasalwaysstartlingtodiscoversoplainatrailofcivilizedmanthereIrememberthatIwasstrangelyaffectedwhenwewerereturningbythesightofaring-boltwelldrilledintoarockandfastenedwithleadattheheadofthissolitaryAmbejijisLakeItwaseasytoseethatdrivinglogsmustbeanexcitingaswellasarduousanddangerous business All winter long the logger goes on piling up the treeswhichhehastrimmedandhauledinsomedryravineattheheadofastreamandtheninthespringhestandsonthebankandwhistlesforRainandThawreadytowringtheperspirationoutofhisshirttoswellthetidetillsuddenlywithawhoopandhalloofromhimshuttinghiseyesasiftobidfarewelltothe existing state of things a fair proportion of his winters work goesscramblingdown the country followedbyhis faithfuldogsThawandRainand Freshet andWind thewhole pack in full cry toward theOronoMillsEverylogismarkedwiththeownersnamecutinthesapwoodwithanaxeorboredwithanaugersodeepasnottobewornoffinthedrivingandyetnotsoastoinjurethetimberanditrequiresconsiderableingenuitytoinventnewand simple marks where there are so many owners They have quite analphabet of their own which only the practiced can read One of mycompanionsreadofffromhismemorandumbooksomemarksofhisownlogsamong which there were crosses belts crows feet girdles etc as Ymdashgirdlemdashcrowfoot and various other devices When the logs have run thegauntletofinnumerablerapidsandfallseachonitsownaccountwithmoreor less jamming and bruising those bearing various owners marks beingmixeduptogethermdashsinceallmusttakeadvantageofthesamefreshetmdashtheyare collected together at the heads of the lakes and surrounded by a boomfenceof floating logs toprevent their beingdispersedby thewind andarethustowedalltogetherlikeaflockofsheepacrossthelakewherethereisnocurrentbyawindlassorboom-headsuchaswesometimessawstandingonanislandorheadlandand ifcircumstancespermitwith theaidofsailsand

oarsSometimesnotwithstanding thelogsaredispersedovermanymilesoflakesurface ina fewhoursbywindsandfreshetsand thrownupondistantshoreswherethedrivercanpickuponlyoneortwoatatimeandreturnwiththemtothethoroughfareandbeforehegetshisflockwellthroughAmbejijisor Pamadumcook he makes many a wet and uncomfortable camp on theshore He must be able to navigate a log as if it were a canoe and be asindifferent to cold and wet as a muskrat He uses a few efficient toolsmdashalevercommonlyofrockmaplesixorsevenfeetlongwithastoutspikeinitstrongly ferruled on and a long spike-pole with a screw at the end of thespiketomakeitholdTheboysalongshorelearntowalkonfloatinglogsascityboyson sidewalksSometimes the logs are thrownupon rocks in suchpositions as to be irrecoverable but by another freshet as high or they jamtogether at rapids and falls and accumulate in vast piles which the drivermuststartattheriskofhislifeSuchisthelumberbusinesswhichdependsonmanyaccidentsastheearlyfreezingoftheriversthattheteamsmaygetupinseasonasufficientfreshetinthespringtofetchthelogsdownandmanyothersIquoteMichauxonLumberingontheKennebecthenthesourceofthebest white pine lumber carried to England The persons engaged in thisbranch of industry are generally emigrants from New Hampshire In thesummer they unite in small companies and traverse these vast solitudes inevery direction to ascertain the places in which the pines abound Aftercuttingthegrassandconvertingitintohayforthenourishmentofthecattletobeemployed in their labor they returnhome In thebeginningof thewintertheyentertheforestsagainestablishthemselvesinhutscoveredwiththebarkofthecanoe-birchorthearbor-vitaeligandthoughthecoldissointensethatthemercurysometimesremainsforseveralweeksfrom40degto50deg[Fahr]belowthe point of congelation they persevere with unabated courage in theirworkAccording toSpringer thecompanyconsistsofchoppers swampersmdashwhomakeroadsmdashbarkerandloader teamsterandcookWhenthe treesarefelledtheycutthemintologsfromfourteentoeighteenfeetlongandbymeansoftheircattlewhichtheyemploywithgreatdexteritydragthemtotheriverandafterstampingonthemamarkofpropertyrollthemonitsfrozenbosom At the breaking of the ice in the spring they float down with thecurrent The logs that are not drawn the first year adds Michaux areattacked by large worms which form holes about two lines in diameter ineverydirectionbut if strippedof their bark theywill remainuninjured forthirtyyearsAmbejijisthisquietSundaymorningstruckmeasthemostbeautifullakewehadseen It is said tobeoneof thedeepestWehad the fairestviewof JoeMerryDoubleTopandKtaadnfromitssurfaceThesummitofthelatterhadasingularlyflattable-landappearancelikeashorthighwaywhereademigodmightbeletdowntotakeaturnortwoinanafternoontosettlehisdinnerWe

rowedamileandahalf tonear theheadof thelakeandpushingthroughafieldof lily-pads landed to cookourbreakfast by the sideof a large rockknown to McCauslin Our breakfast consisted of tea with hard-bread andpork and fried salmonwhichwe atewith forks neatlywhittled from aldertwigswhichgrewthereoffstripsofbirch-barkforplatesTheteawasblackteawithoutmilktocolororsugartosweetenitandtwotindipperswereourteacupsThisbeverageisasindispensabletotheloggersastoanygossipingoldwomeninthelandandtheynodoubtderivegreatcomfortfromitHerewas the site of an old loggers camp remembered by McCauslin nowovergrown with weeds and bushes In the midst of a dense underwood wenoticedawholebrickonarockinasmallruncleanandredandsquareasinabrick-yardwhichhadbeenbroughtthusfarformerlyfortampingSomeofusafterwardregrettedthatwehadnotcarriedthisonwithustothetopofthemountaintobeleftthereforourmarkItwouldcertainlyhavebeenasimpleevidenceofcivilizedmanMcCauslinsaidthatlargewoodencrossesmadeofoak still sound were sometimes found standing in this wilderness whichwere set up by the first Catholic missionaries who came through to theKennebecInthenextninemileswhichweretheextentofourvoyageandwhichittookustherestofthedaytogetoverwerowedacrossseveralsmalllakespoledupnumerousrapidsandthoroughfaresandcarriedoverfourportagesIwillgive the names and distances for the benefit of future tourists First afterleavingAmbejijisLakewehadaquarterofamileofrapidstotheportageorcarry of ninety rods aroundAmbejijis Falls then amile and a half throughPassamagametLakewhich isnarrowand river-like to the fallsof thesamenamemdashAmbejijis stream coming in on the right then two miles throughKatepskonegan Lake to the portage of ninety rods around KatepskoneganFallswhichnamesignifiescarrying-placemdashPassamagametstreamcomingin on the left then three miles through Pockwockomus Lake a slightexpansionoftherivertotheportageoffortyrodsaroundthefallsofthesamenamemdashKatepskoneganstreamcominginontheleftthenthreequartersofamilethroughAboljacarmegusLakesimilartothelasttotheportageoffortyrodsaroundthefallsofthesamenamethenhalfamileofrapidwatertotheSowadnehunkdeadwaterandtheAboljacknagesicstreamThisisgenerallytheorderofnamesasyouascendtheriverFirstthelakeorif there is no expansion the deadwater then the falls then the streamemptyingintothelakeorriveraboveallofthesamenameFirstwecametoPassamagamet Lake then to Passamagamet Falls then to PassamagametStreamemptyinginThisorderandidentityofnamesitwillbeperceivedisquite philosophical since the deadwater or lake is always at least partiallyproducedbythestreamemptyinginaboveandthefirstfallbelowwhichistheoutletof that lakeandwhere that tributarywatermakes its firstplunge

alsonaturallybearsthesamenameAt theportagearoundAmbejijisFalls Iobservedapork-barrelon theshorewithaholeeightornineinchessquarecutinonesidewhichwassetagainstan upright rock but the bears without turning or upsetting the barrel hadgnawedaholeintheoppositesidewhichlookedexactlylikeanenormousrat-holebigenoughtoputtheirheadsinandatthebottomofthebarrelwerestillleftafewmangledandslabberedslicesofporkItisusualforthelumbererstoleave such supplies as they cannot conveniently carry along with them atcarriesorcampstowhichthenextcomersdonotscrupletohelpthemselvestheybeingthepropertycommonlynotofanindividualbutacompanywhocanaffordtodealliberallyIwilldescribeparticularlyhowwegotoversomeoftheseportagesandrapidsin order that the readermay get an idea of the boatmans lifeAtAmbejijisFalls for instance there was the roughest path imaginable cut through thewoodsatfirstuphillatanangleofnearlyforty-fivedegreesoverrocksandlogswithoutendThiswasthemanneroftheportageWefirstcarriedoverourbaggageanddepositeditontheshoreattheotherendthenreturningtothebatteauwe dragged it up the hill by the painter and onwardwith frequentpausesoverhalf theportageBut thiswasabunglingway andwould soonhave worn out the boat Commonly three men walk over with a batteauweighing from three to five or six hundred pounds on their heads andshoulders the tallest standing under themiddle of the boatwhich is turnedoverandoneateachendorelsetherearetwoatthebowsMorecannotwelltakeholdatonceButthisrequiressomepracticeaswellasstrengthandisinanycaseextremely laboriousandwearing to theconstitution to followWewereonthewholeratheraninvalidpartyandcouldrenderourboatmenbutlittleassistanceOurtwomenatlengthtookthebatteauupontheirshouldersandwhile twoofussteadiedit toprevent it fromrockingandwearingintotheir shouldersonwhich theyplaced theirhats foldedwalkedbravelyoverthe remaining distance with two or three pauses In the samemanner theyaccomplished theotherportagesWith this crushingweight theymust climbandstumblealongoverfallentreesandslipperyrocksofallsizeswherethosewho walked by the sides were continually brushed off such was thenarrownessofthepathButwewerefortunatenottohavetocutourpathinthe firstplaceBeforewe launchedourboatwe scraped thebottomsmoothagainwithourkniveswhereithadrubbedontherockstosavefrictionToavoidthedifficultiesoftheportageourmendeterminedtowarpupthePassamagamet Falls so while the rest walked over the portage with thebaggageIremainedinthebatteautoassistinwarpingupWeweresooninthemidstof the rapidswhichweremore swift and tumultuous thananywehad poled up and had turned to the side of the stream for the purpose of

warping when the boatmen who felt some pride in their skill and wereambitioustodosomethingmorethanusualformybenefitasIsurmisedtookonemoreviewoftherapidsorratherthefallsandinanswertoourquestionwhetherwecouldntgetuptheretheotheransweredthatheguessedhedtryitSowepushedagainintothemidstofthestreamandbegantostrugglewiththe current I sat in themiddle of theboat to trim itmoving slightly to therightor left as it grazed a rockWith anuncertain andwaveringmotionwewound and bolted our way up until the bow was actually raised two feetabove the stern at the steepest pitch and then when everything dependeduponhisexertionsthebowmanspolesnappedintwobutbeforehehadtimeto take the spare one which I reached him he had saved himself with thefragmentuponarockandsowegotupbyahairsbreadthandUncleGeorgeexclaimedthatthatwasneverdonebeforeandhehadnottrieditifhehadnotknownwhomhehadgotinthebownorheinthebowifhehadnotknownhim in the stern At this place there was a regular portage cut through thewoods and our boatmen had never known a batteau to ascend the fallsAsnearasIcanremembertherewasaperpendicularfallhereattheworstplaceofthewholePenobscotRivertwoorthreefeetatleastIcouldnotsufficientlyadmire the skill and coolness with which they performed this feat neverspeakingtoeachotherThebowmannotlookingbehindbutknowingexactlywhat theother isaboutworksas ifheworkedaloneNowsounding invainfor a bottom in fifteen feet ofwaterwhile the boat falls back several rodsheldstraightonlywiththegreatestskillandexertionorwhile thesternmanobstinately holds his ground like a turtle the bowman springs from side toside with wonderful suppleness and dexterity scanning the rapids and therockswith a thousand eyes and now having got a bite at lastwith a lustyshovewhichmakeshispolebendandquiverandthewholeboattremblehegainsafewfeetupontheriverToaddtothedangerthepolesareliableatanytimetobecaughtbetweentherocksandwrenchedoutoftheirhandsleavingthematthemercyoftherapidsmdashtherocksasitwerelyinginwait likesomanyalligators tocatchthemintheirteethandjerkthemfromyourhandsbeforeyouhavestolenaneffectualshoveagainsttheirpalatesThepoleissetclosetotheboatandtheprowismadetoovershootandjustturnthecornersof the rocks in the very teeth of the rapids Nothing but the length andlightness and the slight draught of the batteau enables them to make anyheadway The bowmanmust quickly choose his course there is no time todeliberate Frequently the boat is shoved between rocks where both sidestouchandthewatersoneitherhandareaperfectmaelstromHalfamileabovethistwoofustriedourhandsatpolingupaslightrapidandwe were just surmounting the last difficulty when an unlucky rockconfounded our calculations and while the batteau was sweeping roundirrecoverablyamidthewhirlpoolwewereobligedtoresignthepolestomore

skillfulhandsKatepskoneganisoneoftheshallowestandweediestofthelakesandlookedas if it might abound in pickerel The falls of the same name where westopped to dine are considerable and quite picturesqueHereUncleGeorgehadseen troutcaughtby thebarrelfulbut theywouldnot rise toourbaitatthishourHalfwayoverthiscarrythusfarintheMainewildernessonitswayto theProvinceswe noticed a large flamingOakHall handbill about twofeet longwrapped round the trunkofapine fromwhich thebarkhadbeenstrippedandtowhichitwasfastgluedbythepitchThisshouldberecordedamongtheadvantagesofthismodeofadvertisingthatsopossiblyeventhebears andwolvesmoose deer otter andbeaver not tomention the Indianmaylearnwheretheycanfitthemselvesaccordingtothelatestfashionoratleast recover some of their own lost garmentsWe christened this the OakHallcarryTheforenoonwasassereneandplacidonthiswildstreaminthewoodsasweare apt to imagine that Sunday in summer usually is inMassachusettsWewere occasionally startled by the scream of a bald eagle sailing over thestream in front of our batteau or of the fish hawks onwhom he levies hiscontributionsTherewereat intervalssmallmeadowsofafewacreson thesidesofthestreamwavingwithuncutgrasswhichattractedtheattentionofourboatmenwho regretted that theywerenotnearer to their clearings andcalculated how many stacks they might cut Two or three men sometimesspendthesummerbythemselvescuttingthegrassinthesemeadowstoselltotheloggersinthewintersinceitwillfetchahigherpriceonthespotthaninanymarketintheStateOnasmallislecoveredwiththiskindofrushorcut-grassonwhichwelandedtoconsultaboutourfurthercoursewenoticedtherecent track of a moose a large roundish hole in the soft wet groundevincingthegreatsizeandweightoftheanimalthatmadeitTheyarefondofthewaterandvisitalltheseislandmeadowsswimmingaseasilyfromislandtoislandastheymaketheirwaythroughthethicketsonlandNowandthenwepassedwhatMcCauslin called a pokelogan an Indian term forwhat thedriversmighthavereasontocallapoke-logs-inaninletthatleadsnowhereIfyou get in you have got to get out again the same way These and thefrequent runrounds which come into the river again would embarrass aninexperiencedvoyagernotalittleThecarryaroundPockwockomusFallswasexceedinglyroughandrockythebatteauhavingtobelifteddirectlyfromthewaterupfourorfivefeetontoarockandlaunchedagaindownasimilarbankTherocksonthisportagewerecovered with the dents made by the spikes in the lumberers boots whilestaggeringoverunder theweightof theirbatteauxandyoucouldseewherethesurfaceofsome large rocksonwhich theyhad rested theirbatteauxwas

wornquitesmoothwithuseAsitwaswehadcarriedoverbuthalftheusualportageat thisplaceforthisstageofthewaterandlaunchedourboatinthesmoothwavejustcurvingtothefallpreparedtostrugglewiththemostviolentrapidwehadtoencounterTherestofthepartywalkedovertheremainderoftheportagewhileI remainedwith theboatmentoassist inwarpingupOnehadtoholdtheboatwhiletheothersgotintopreventitfromgoingoverthefallsWhenwehadpusheduptherapidsasfaraspossiblekeepingclose totheshoreTomseizedthepainterandleapedoutuponarockjustvisibleinthewater but he lost his footing notwithstanding his spiked boots and wasinstantlyamid therapidsbutrecoveringhimselfbygoodluckandreachinganotherrockhepassedthepaintertomewhohadfollowedhimandtookhisplaceagaininthebowsLeapingfromrocktorockintheshoalwaterclosetotheshoreandnowandthengettingabitewiththeroperoundanuprightoneI held theboatwhile one reset his pole and then all three forced it upwardagainstanyrapidThiswaswarpingupWhenapartofuswalkedroundatsuchaplacewegenerally took theprecaution to takeout themostvaluablepartofthebaggageforfearofbeingswampedAs we poled up a swift rapid for half a mile above Aboljacarmegus Fallssomeof thepartyreadtheirownmarksonthehugelogswhichlaypileduphighanddryontherocksoneitherhandtherelicsprobablyofajamwhichhadtakenplacehereintheGreatFreshetinthespringManyofthesewouldhavetowaitforanothergreatfreshetperchanceiftheylastedsolongbeforetheycouldbegotoffItwassingularenoughtomeetwithpropertyof theirswhich they had never seen and where they had never been before thusdetainedbyfreshetsandrockswhenonitswaytothemMethinksthatmustbewhere all my property lies cast up on the rocks on some distant andunexploredstreamandwaitingforanunheard-offreshettofetchitdownOmake haste ye godswith yourwinds and rains and start the jambefore itrotsThe lasthalfmilecarriedus to theSowadnehunkDeadwatersocalledfromthe stream of the same name signifying running between mountains animportant tributarywhichcomes inamileaboveHerewedecided tocampabout twenty miles from the Dam at the mouth of Murch Brook and theAboljacknagesicmountainstreamsbroadofffromKtaadnandaboutadozenmilesfromitssummithavingmadefifteenmilesthisdayWe had been told byMcCauslin thatwe should here find trout enough sowhilesomepreparedthecamptherestfelltofishingSeizingthebirchpoleswhich some party of Indians or white hunters had left on the shore andbaitingourhookswithporkandwithtroutassoonastheywerecaughtwecast our lines into themouth of theAboljacknagesic a clear swift shallowstream which came in from Ktaadn Instantly a shoal of white chivin

(Leuciscus pulchellus) silvery roaches cousin-trout or what not large andsmall prowling thereabouts fell upon our bait and one after another werelandedamidst thebushesAnon their cousins the true trout took their turnandalternatelythespeckledtroutandthesilveryroachesswallowedthebaitasfastaswecouldthrowinandthefinestspecimensofboththatIhaveeverseen the largest one weighing three pounds were heaved upon the shorethoughatfirstinvaintowriggledownintothewateragainforwestoodintheboatbut soonwe learned to remedy this evil foronewhohad losthishookstoodonshoretocatchthemastheyfellinaperfectshoweraroundhimmdashsometimeswetandslippery full inhisfaceandbosomashisarmswereoutstretchedtoreceivethemWhileyetalivebeforetheirtintshadfadedtheyglistenedlikethefairestflowerstheproductofprimitiveriversandhecouldhardly trusthis sensesashestoodover them that these jewels shouldhaveswamawayinthatAboljacknagesicwaterforsolongsomanydarkagesmdashthesebrightfluviatileflowersseenofIndiansonlymadebeautifultheLordonlyknowswhytoswimthereIcouldunderstandbetterforthisthetruthofmythology thefablesofProteusandall thosebeautifulsea-monstersmdashhowallhistoryindeedputtoaterrestrialuseismerehistorybutputtoacelestialismythologyalwaysBut there is the roughvoiceofUncleGeorgewhocommandsat the frying-pan to sendoverwhatyouvegot and thenyoumaystay tillmorningThepork sizzles and cries for fish Luckily for the foolish race and thisparticularlyfoolishgenerationoftroutthenightshutdownatlastnotalittledeepenedbythedarksideofKtaadnwhichlikeapermanentshadowreareditselffromtheeasternbankLescarbotwritingin1609tellsusthattheSieurChampdoreacute who with one of the people of the Sieur deMonts ascendedsome fifty leagues up theSt John in 1608 found the fish so plenty quenmettantlachaudiegraveresurlefeuilsenavoientprissuffisammentpoureuxdisneravantqueleaufustchaudeTheirdescendantsherearenolessnumerousSoweaccompaniedTomintothewoodstocutcedartwigsforourbedWhilehewentaheadwith theaxeand loppedoff thesmallest twigsof the flat-leavedcedarthearbor-vitaeligofthegardenswegatheredthemupandreturnedwiththemtotheboatuntilitwasloadedOurbedwasmadewithasmuchcareandskillasaroofisshingledbeginningatthefootandlayingthetwigendofthecedarupwardweadvancedtotheheadacourseatatimethussuccessivelycoveringthestub-endsandproducingasoftandlevelbedForussixitwasabouttenfeetlongbysixinbreadthThistimewelayunderourtenthavingpitched itmoreprudentlywith reference to thewind and the flame and theusualhugefireblazedinfrontSupperwaseatenoffalargelogwhichsomefreshet had thrown upThis nightwe had a dish of arbor-vitaelig or cedar teawhichthelumberersometimesuseswhenotherherbsfailmdashAquartofarbor-vitaelig

TomakehimstrongandmightymdashbutIhadnowishtorepeattheexperimentIthadtoomedicinalatasteformypalate There was the skeleton of a moose here whose bones some IndianhuntershadpickedonthisveryspotInthenightIdreamedoftrout-fishingandwhenatlengthIawokeitseemeda fable that this painted fish swam there so nearmy couch and rose to ourhooks the lasteveningand Idoubted if Ihadnotdreamed it allSo IarosebeforedawntotestitstruthwhilemycompanionswerestillsleepingTherestood Ktaadn with distinct and cloudless outline in the moonlight and theripplingoftherapidswastheonlysoundtobreakthestillnessStandingontheshoreIoncemorecastmylineintothestreamandfoundthedreamtoberealandthefabletrueThespeckledtroutandsilveryroachlikeflying-fishspedswiftly through themoonlight air describingbright arcs on thedark sideofKtaadnuntilmoonlightnowfadingintodaylightbroughtsatietytomymindandthemindsofmycompanionswhohadjoinedmeBy six oclock having mounted our packs and a good blanketful of troutready dressed and swung up such baggage and provision as we wished toleave behind upon the tops of saplings to be out of the reach of bearswestarted for the summit of the mountain distant as Uncle George said theboatmencalled itaboutfourmilesbutasI judgedandas itprovednearerfourteenHehadneverbeenanynearerthemountainthanthisandtherewasnot the slightest trace of man to guide us farther in this direction At firstpushing a few rods up the Aboljacknagesic or open-land stream wefastened our batteau to a tree and traveled up the north side through burntlands nowpartially overgrownwith young aspens and other shrubbery butsoonrecrossingthisstreamwhereitwasaboutfiftyorsixtyfeetwideuponajam of logs and rocksmdashand you could cross it by this means almostanywheremdashwe struck at once for the highest peak over amile ormore ofcomparativelyopenlandstillverygraduallyascendingthewhileHereitfelltomy lot as theoldestmountain-climber to take the leadSo scanning thewoodysideofthemountainwhichlaystillatanindefinitedistancestretchedout some seven or eight miles in length before us we determined to steerdirectlyforthebaseofthehighestpeakleavingalargeslidebywhichasIhave since learned some of our predecessors ascended on our left Thiscoursewouldleadusparallel toadarkseamintheforestwhichmarkedthebedof a torrent andover a slight spurwhichextended southward from themainmountain fromwhose bare summitwe could get an outlook over thecountryandclimbdirectlyup thepeakwhichwould thenbecloseathandSeen from thispoint abare ridgeat theextremityof theopen landKtaadnpresented a different aspect from any mountain I have seen there being agreater proportion of naked rock rising abruptly from the forest and we

looked up at this blue barrier as if it were some fragment of a wall whichanciently bounded the earth in that direction Setting the compass for anortheast coursewhichwas the bearing of the southern base of the highestpeakweweresoonburiedinthewoodsWesoonbegantomeetwith tracesofbearsandmooseandthoseofrabbitswereeverywherevisibleThe tracksofmoosemoreor less recent to speakliterally covered every square rod on the sides of the mountain and theseanimalsareprobablymorenumeroustherenowthaneverbeforebeingdriveninto this wilderness from all sides by the settlements The track of a full-grownmooseis likethatofacoworlargerandoftheyounglikethatofacalfSometimeswe foundourselves traveling in faintpathswhich theyhadmade like cow-paths in the woods only far more indistinct being ratheropenings affording imperfect vistas through the dense underwood thantroddenpathsandeverywherethetwigshadbeenbrowsedbythemclippedassmoothlyasifbyaknifeThebarkoftreeswasstrippedupbythemtotheheightofeightorninefeetinlongnarrowstripsaninchwidestillshowingthedistinctmarksoftheirteethWeexpectednothinglessthantomeetaherdof themeverymoment andourNimrodheldhis shooting-iron in readinessbutwedidnotgooutofourwaytolookforthemandthoughnumeroustheyaresowarythattheunskillfulhuntermightrangetheforestalongtimebeforehe could get sight of one They are sometimes dangerous to encounter andwillnotturnoutforthehunterbutfuriouslyrushuponhimandtramplehimtodeathunlessheisluckyenoughtoavoidthembydodgingroundatreeThelargest are nearly as large as a horse and weigh sometimes one thousandpoundsanditissaidthattheycanstepoverafive-footgateintheirordinarywalkTheyaredescribedasexceedinglyawkward-lookinganimalswiththeirlong legs and short bodiesmaking a ludicrous figurewhen in full run butmakinggreatheadwayneverthelessItseemedamysterytoushowtheycouldthread these woods which it required all our suppleness to accomplishmdashclimbingstoopingandwindingalternatelyTheyaresaidtodroptheirlongandbranchinghornswhichusuallyspreadfiveorsixfeetontheirbacksandmaketheirwayeasilybytheweightoftheirbodiesOurboatmensaidbutIknownotwithhowmuchtruththattheirhornsareapttobegnawedawaybyverminwhiletheysleepTheirfleshwhichismorelikebeefthanvenisoniscommoninBangormarketWehadproceededonthussevenoreightmilestillaboutnoonwithfrequentpauses to refresh the weary ones crossing a considerablemountain streamwhichweconjecturedtobeMurchBrookatwhosemouthwehadcampedallthe time in woods without having once seen the summit and rising verygraduallywhentheboatmenbeginningtodespairalittleandfearingthatwewere leaving themountainononesideofus for theyhadnotentirefaith inthecompassMcCauslinclimbedatreefromthetopofwhichhecouldseethe

peakwhenitappearedthatwehadnotswervedfromarightlinethecompassdownbelowstill rangingwithhisarmwhichpointed to thesummitBy thesideofacoolmountainrillamidthewoodswherethewaterbegantopartakeof the purity and transparency of the air we stopped to cook some of ourfishes which we had brought thus far in order to save our hard-bread andpork intheuseofwhichwehadputourselvesonshortallowanceWesoonhadafireblazingandstoodarounditunderthedampandsombreforestoffirsandbircheseachwithasharpenedstickthreeorfourfeetinlengthuponwhichhehadspittedhistroutorroachpreviouslywellgashedandsaltedoursticksradiatinglikethespokesofawheelfromonecentreandeachcrowdinghisparticularfishintothemostdesirableexposurenotwiththetruestregardalways to his neighbors rights Thus we regaled ourselves drinkingmeanwhile at the spring till one mans pack at least was considerablylightenedwhenweagaintookupourlineofmarchAt lengthwe reached an elevation sufficiently bare to afford a view of thesummitstilldistantandbluealmostasifretreatingfromusAtorrentwhichproved to be the same we had crossed was seen tumbling down in frontliterallyfromoutofthecloudsButthisglimpseatourwhereaboutswassoonlost andwewere buried in thewoods againThewoodwas chiefly yellowbirch spruce firmountain-ash or round-wood as theMainepeople call itand moose-wood It was the worst kind of traveling sometimes like thedensest scrub oak patches with us The cornel or bunch-berries were veryabundant as well as Solomons-seal and moose-berries Blueberries weredistributedalongourwholerouteandinoneplacethebushesweredroopingwiththeweightofthefruitstillasfreshaseverItwasthe7thofSeptemberSuch patches afforded a grateful repast and served to bait the tired partyforwardWhenanylaggedbehindthecryofblueberrieswasmosteffectualto bring them up Even at this elevation we passed through a moose-yardformedbya largeflat rock fouror fiverodssquarewhere they treaddownthesnowinwinterAtlengthfearingthatifweheldthedirectcoursetothesummitweshouldnotfindanywaternearourcamping-groundwegraduallyswerved to thewest tillat fouroclockwestruckagain the torrentwhichIhavementionedandhereinviewofthesummitthewearypartydecidedtocampthatnightWhile my companions were seeking a suitable spot for this purpose IimprovedthelittledaylightthatwasleftinclimbingthemountainaloneWewere in a deep and narrow ravine sloping up to the clouds at an angle ofnearlyforty-fivedegreesandhemmedinbywallsofrockwhichwereatfirstcoveredwithlowtreesthenwithimpenetrablethicketsofscraggybirchesandsprucetreesandwithmossbutatlastbareofallvegetationbutlichensandalmost continually draped in clouds Following up the course of the torrentwhichoccupied thismdashand Imean to laysomeemphasison thiswordupmdash

pullingmyselfupbythesideofperpendicularfallsoftwentyorthirtyfeetbytherootsoffirsandbirchesandthenperhapswalkingalevelrodortwointhethinstreamfor it tookupthewholeroadascendingbyhugestepsas itwere a giants stairway downwhich a river flowed I had soon cleared thetreesandpausedonthesuccessiveshelvestolookbackoverthecountryThetorrentwasfromfifteentothirtyfeetwidewithoutatributaryandseeminglynotdiminishinginbreadthasIadvancedbutstillitcamerushingandroaringdownwithacopioustideoverandamidstmassesofbarerockfromtheverycloudsasthoughawaterspouthadjustburstoverthemountainLeavingthisat lastIbegantoworkmywayscarcelylessarduousthanSatansancientlythroughChaosupthenearestthoughnotthehighestpeakAtfirstscramblingonallfoursoverthetopsofancientblacksprucetrees(Abiesnigra)oldastheflood fromtwoto tenor twelvefeet inheight their topsflatandspreadingandtheirfoliageblueandnippedwithcoldasifforcenturiestheyhadceasedgrowingupwardagainstthebleakskythesolidcoldIwalkedsomegoodrodserect upon the tops of these trees which were overgrown with moss andmountaincranberries Itseemedthat in thecourseof timetheyhadfilleduptheintervalsbetweenthehugerocksandthecoldwindhaduniformlyleveledall over Here the principle of vegetation was hard put to it There wasapparently a belt of this kind running quite round the mountain thoughperhaps nowhere so remarkable as here Once slumping through I lookeddowntenfeetintoadarkandcavernousregionandsawthestemofaspruceonwhosetopIstoodasonamassofcoarsebasket-workfullynineinchesindiameteratthegroundTheseholeswerebearsdensandthebearswereeventhenathomeThiswasthesortofgardenImademywayoverforaneighthofamileattheriskitistrueoftreadingonsomeoftheplantsnotseeinganypath through itmdashcertainly the most treacherous and porous country I evertraveledNighfounderedonhefaresTreadingthecrudeconsistencehalfonfootHalfflyingButnothingcouldexceedthetoughnessofthetwigsmdashnotonesnappedundermyweight for they had slowly grownHaving slumped scrambled rolledbounced and walked by turns over this scraggy country I arrived upon aside-hill or rather side-mountain where rocks gray silent rocks were theflocksandherdsthatpasturedchewingarockycudatsunsetTheylookedatmewithhardgrayeyeswithoutableatoralowThisbroughtmetotheskirtofacloudandboundedmywalkthatnightButIhadalreadyseenthatMainecountrywhenIturnedaboutwavingflowingripplingdownbelowWhen I returned tomycompanions theyhadselectedacamping-groundonthe torrents edge andwere restingon theground onewason the sick list

rolledinablanketonadampshelfofrockItwasasavageanddrearysceneryenoughsowildlyroughthattheylookedlongtofindalevelandopenspacefor the tentWe couldnotwell camphigher forwant of fuel and the treeshere seemed so evergreen and sappy thatwe almost doubted if theywouldacknowledgetheinfluenceoffirebutfireprevailedat lastandblazedheretoolikeagoodcitizenoftheworldEvenatthisheightwemetwithfrequenttracesofmooseaswellasofbearsAsherewasnocedarwemadeourbedofcoarser feathered spruce but at any rate the featherswereplucked from thelive tree ItwasperhapsevenamoregrandanddesolateplaceforanightslodgingthanthesummitwouldhavebeenbeingintheneighborhoodofthosewildtreesandofthetorrentSomemoreaeumlrialandfiner-spiritedwindsrushedand roared through the ravineallnight from time to timearousingour fireanddispersingtheembersaboutItwasasifwelayintheverynestofayoungwhirlwindAtmidnightoneofmybed-fellowsbeingstartled inhisdreamsby the sudden blazing up to its top of a fir treewhose green boughsweredriedbytheheatsprangupwithacryfromhisbed thinkingtheworldonfireanddrewthewholecampafterhimInthemorningafterwhettingourappetiteonsomerawporkawaferofhard-breadandadipperofcondensedcloudorwaterspoutwealltogetherbegantomakeourwayupthefallswhichIhavedescribedthistimechoosingtherighthand or highest peakwhichwas not the one I had approached beforeButsoonmycompanionswerelosttomysightbehindthemountainridgeinmyrearwhich still seemedever retreatingbeforemeand I climbedaloneoverhugerockslooselypoisedamileormorestilledgingtowardthecloudsforthoughthedaywasclearelsewhere thesummitwasconcealedbymistThemountain seemed a vast aggregation of loose rocks as if some time it hadrainedrocksandtheylayastheyfellonthemountainsidesnowherefairlyatrestbut leaningoneachotherall rockingstoneswithcavitiesbetweenbutscarcelyanysoilorsmoothershelfTheywere therawmaterialsofaplanetdropped from an unseen quarry which the vast chemistry of nature wouldanonworkuporworkdownintothesmilingandverdantplainsandvalleysofearthThiswasanundoneextremityoftheglobeasinligniteweseecoalintheprocessofformationAtlengthIenteredwithintheskirtsofthecloudwhichseemedforeverdriftingoverthesummitandyetwouldneverbegonebutwasgeneratedoutofthatpure air as fast as it flowed away andwhen a quarter of amile farther Ireachedthesummitoftheridgewhichthosewhohaveseeninclearerweathersayisaboutfivemileslongandcontainsathousandacresoftable-landIwasdeepwithinthehostileranksofcloudsandallobjectswereobscuredbythemNowthewindwouldblowmeoutayardofclearsunlightwherein I stoodthen a gray dawning light was all it could accomplish the cloud-line everrising and falling with the winds intensity Sometimes it seemed as if the

summitwouldbeclearedinafewmomentsandsmileinsunshinebutwhatwasgainedononesidewas lostonanother Itwas likesitting inachimneyandwaiting for the smoke to blow away Itwas in fact a cloud-factorymdashthesewerethecloud-worksandthewindturnedthemoffdonefromthecoolbare rocksOccasionallywhen thewindycolumnsbroke in tome I caughtsight of a dark damp crag to the right or left themist driving ceaselesslybetween it and me It reminded me of the creations of the old epic anddramatic poets of Atlas Vulcan the Cyclops and Prometheus Such wasCaucasusandtherockwherePrometheuswasboundAEligschylushadnodoubtvisited such scenery as this It was vast Titanic and such as man neverinhabits Some part of the beholder even some vital part seems to escapethroughtheloosegratingofhisribsasheascendsHeismorelonethanyoucanimagineThereislessofsubstantialthoughtandfairunderstandinginhimthan in the plainswheremen inhabitHis reason is dispersed and shadowymorethinandsubtileliketheairVastTitanicinhumanNaturehasgothimatdisadvantagecaughthimaloneandpilfershimofsomeofhisdivinefacultyShe does not smile on him as in the plains She seems to say sternlyWhycameyeherebeforeyourtimeThisgroundisnotpreparedforyouIsitnotenoughthatIsmileinthevalleysIhavenevermadethissoilforthyfeetthisair for thybreathing these rocks for thyneighbors I cannotpitynor fondletheeherebutforeverrelentlesslydrivetheehencetowhereIamkindWhyseekmewhereIhavenotcalledtheeandthencomplainbecauseyoufindmebut a stepmother Shouldst thou freeze or starve or shudder thy life awayhereisnoshrinenoraltarnoranyaccesstomyearChaosandancientNightIcomenospyWithpurposetoexploreortodisturbThesecretsofyourrealmbutasmywayLiesthroughyourspaciousempireuptolightThetopsofmountainsareamongtheunfinishedpartsoftheglobewhitheritisaslight insult to thegods toclimbandpry into theirsecretsand try theireffect on our humanityOnly daring and insolentmen perchance go thereSimpleracesassavagesdonotclimbmountainsmdashtheirtopsaresacredandmysterious tracts never visited by them Pomola is always angrywith thosewhoclimbtothesummitofKtaadnAccordingtoJacksonwhoinhiscapacityofgeologicalsurveyoroftheStatehasaccuratelymeasureditthealtitudeofKtaadnis5300feetoralittlemorethanonemileabovetheleveloftheseaandheaddsItisthenevidentlythehighestpointintheStateofMaineandisthemostabruptgranitemountaininNewEnglandThepeculiarities of that spacious table-landonwhich Iwas

standing as well as the remarkable semicircular precipice or basin on theeasternsidewereallconcealedbythemistIhadbroughtmywholepacktothe topnotknowingbutIshouldhavetomakemydescent to theriverandpossiblytothesettledportionoftheStatealoneandbysomeotherrouteandwishing to have a complete outfit with me But at length fearing that mycompanionswould be anxious to reach the river before night and knowingthat the clouds might rest on the mountain for days I was compelled todescendOccasionallyasIcamedownthewindwouldblowmeavistaopenthroughwhichIcouldseethecountryeastwardboundlessforestsandlakesand streams gleaming in the sun some of them emptying into the EastBranchTherewere also newmountains in sight in that directionNowandthensomesmallbirdofthesparrowfamilywouldflitawaybeforemeunabletocommanditscourselikeafragmentofthegrayrockblownoffbythewindI found my companions where I had left them on the side of the peakgathering the mountain cranberries which filled every crevice between therockstogetherwithblueberrieswhichhadaspicierflavorthehigheruptheygrew but were not the less agreeable to our palates When the country issettledandroadsaremade thesecranberrieswillperhapsbecomeanarticleofcommerceFrom thiselevation juston the skirtsof thecloudswecouldoverlook thecountrywestandsouth forahundredmilesThere itwas theState ofMaine which we had seen on the map but not much like thatmdashimmeasurable forest for the sun to shineon that eastern stuffwehearof inMassachusettsNoclearingnohouseItdidnot lookasifasolitarytravelerhadcutsomuchasawalking-stickthereCountlesslakesmdashMooseheadinthesouthwest fortymiles longby tenwide likeagleamingsilverplatterat theendofthetableChesuncookeighteenlongbythreewidewithoutanislandMillinocket on the south with its hundred islands and a hundred otherswithout a name and mountains also whose names for the most part areknownonlytotheIndiansTheforestlookedlikeafirmgrassswardandtheeffectoftheselakesinitsmidsthasbeenwellcomparedbyonewhohassincevisitedthissamespot tothatofamirrorbrokenintoathousandfragmentsandwildlyscatteredoverthegrassreflectingthefullblazeofthesunItwasa largefarmforsomebodywhenclearedAccordingto theGazetteerwhichwas printed before the boundary questionwas settled this single PenobscotCountyinwhichwewerewaslargerthanthewholeStateofVermontwithitsfourteencountiesandthiswasonlyapartofthewildlandsofMaineWeareconcernednowhoweveraboutnaturalnotpoliticallimitsWewereabouteightymilesasthebirdfliesfromBangororonehundredandfifteenaswehad ridden andwalked and paddledWehad to console ourselveswith thereflectionthatthisviewwasprobablyasgoodasthatfromthepeakasfarasit went and what were a mountain without its attendant clouds andmistsLikeourselvesneitherBaileynorJacksonhadobtainedaclearviewfromthe

summitSetting out on our return to the river still at an early hour in the day wedecided to followthecourseof the torrentwhichwesupposed tobeMurchBrookaslongasitwouldnotleadustoofaroutofourwayWethustraveledaboutfourmilesintheverytorrentitselfcontinuallycrossingandrecrossingitleapingfromrocktorockandjumpingwiththestreamdownfallsofsevenoreightfeetorsometimesslidingdownonourbacksinathinsheetofwaterThis ravine had been the scene of an extraordinary freshet in the springapparentlyaccompaniedbyaslidefromthemountainItmusthavebeenfilledwithastreamofstonesandwateratleasttwentyfeetabovethepresentlevelof the torrentFora rodor twooneither sideof its channel the treeswerebarked and splintered up to their tops the birches bent over twisted andsometimesfinelysplitlikeastable-broomsomeafootindiametersnappedoff andwhole clumps of trees bent overwith theweight of rocks piled onthem In one placewe noticed a rock two or three feet in diameter lodgednearly twenty feethigh in thecrotchof a treeFor thewhole fourmileswesaw but one rill emptying in and the volume of water did not seem to beincreased from the first We traveled thus very rapidly with a downwardimpetusandgrewremarkablyexpertatleapingfromrocktorockforleapwemustandleapwedidwhethertherewasanyrockattherightdistanceornotItwas apleasantpicturewhen the foremost turnedabout and lookedup thewindingravinewalledinwithrocksandthegreenforesttoseeatintervalsofarodortwoared-shirtedorgreen-jacketedmountaineeragainstthewhitetorrentleapingdownthechannelwithhispackonhisbackorpausinguponaconvenient rock in themidst of the torrent tomend a rent inhis clothes orunstrapthedipperathisbelt totakeadraughtofthewaterAtoneplacewewerestartledbyseeingona littlesandyshelfby thesideof thestream thefreshprintofamansfootandforamomentrealizedhowRobinsonCrusoefeltinasimilarcasebutatlastwerememberedthatwehadstruckthisstreamonourwayupthoughwecouldnothavetoldwhereandonehaddescendedintotheravineforadrinkThecoolairaboveandthecontinualbathingofourbodiesinmountainwateralternatefootsitzdoucheandplungebathsmadethiswalkexceedinglyrefreshingandwehadtraveledonlyamileortwoafterleaving the torrent before every thread of our clotheswas as dry as usualowingperhapstoapeculiarqualityintheatmosphereAfter leaving the torrent being indoubt aboutour courseTom threwdownhispackatthefootoftheloftiestsprucetreeathandandshinnedupthebaretrunksometwentyfeetandthenclimbedthroughthegreentowerlosttooursightuntilheheld the topmost spray inhishandMcCauslin inhisyoungerdays had marched through the wilderness with a body of troops underGeneralSomebody andwithoneothermandid all the scouting and spyingserviceTheGeneralswordwasThrowdownthetopofthattreeandthere

wasnotree in theMainewoodssohighthat itdidnot lose its top insuchacaseIhaveheardastoryoftwomenbeinglostonceinthesewoodsnearertothesettlementsthanthiswhoclimbedtheloftiestpinetheycouldfindsomesixfeetindiameteratthegroundfromwhosetoptheydiscoveredasolitaryclearinganditssmokeWhenatthisheightsometwohundredfeetfromthegroundoneofthembecamedizzyandfaintedinhiscompanionsarmsandthe latter had to accomplish the descent with him alternately fainting andrevivingasbesthecouldToTomwecried Whereawaydoes thesummitbearwheretheburntlandsThelasthecouldonlyconjecturehedescriedhowever a littlemeadowandpond lyingprobably inour coursewhichweconcluded to steer for On reaching this secluded meadow we found freshtracksofmooseontheshoreofthepondandthewaterwasstillunsettledasiftheyhad fledbeforeusA little farther inadense thicketwe seemed tobestillontheirtrailItwasasmallmeadowofafewacresonthemountain-sideconcealedbytheforestandperhapsneverseenbyawhitemanbeforewhereonewould think that themoosemight browse and bathe and rest in peacePursuing this course we soon reached the open land which went slopingdownsomemilestowardthePenobscotPerhaps I most fully realized that this was primeval untamed and foreveruntamableNatureorwhateverelsemencallitwhilecomingdownthispartof the mountainWe were passing over Burnt Lands burnt by lightningperchance thoughtheyshowednorecentmarksoffirehardlysomuchasacharredstumpbutlookedratherlikeanaturalpastureforthemooseanddeerexceedinglywildanddesolatewithoccasionalstripsoftimbercrossingthemand low poplars springing up and patches of blueberries here and there Ifoundmyself traversing them familiarly like some pasture run towaste orpartially reclaimedbymanbutwhen I reflectedwhatmanwhatbrotherorsisterorkinsmanofourracemadeitandclaimeditIexpectedtheproprietorto rise up and dispute my passage It is difficult to conceive of a regionuninhabited by man We habitually presume his presence and influenceeverywhereAndyetwehavenotseenpureNatureunlesswehaveseenherthus vast and drear and inhuman though in themidst of citiesNaturewasheresomethingsavageandawful thoughbeautifulI lookedwithaweat thegroundItrodontoseewhatthePowershadmadetheretheformandfashionandmaterialoftheirworkThiswasthatEarthofwhichwehaveheardmadeoutofChaosandOldNightHerewasnomansgardenbuttheunhandseledglobe It was not lawn nor pasture nor mead nor woodland nor lea norarablenorwastelandItwasthefreshandnaturalsurfaceoftheplanetEarthas it wasmade forever and evermdashto be the dwelling of man we saymdashsoNaturemadeitandmanmayuseit ifhecanManwasnot tobeassociatedwithitItwasMattervastterrificmdashnothisMotherEarththatwehaveheardof not for him to tread on or be buried inmdashno itwere being too familiar

eventolethisboneslietheremdashthehomethisofNecessityandFateTherewasclearlyfeltthepresenceofaforcenotboundtobekindtomanItwasaplaceforheathenismandsuperstitiousritesmdashtobeinhabitedbymennearerofkintotherocksandtowildanimalsthanweWewalkedoveritwithacertainawe stopping from time to time to pick the blueberrieswhich grew thereandhada smart and spicy tastePerchancewhereourwildpines stand andleaves lie on their forest floor in Concord there were once reapers andhusbandmenplantedgrainbutherenoteventhesurfacehadbeenscarredbymanbutitwasaspecimenofwhatGodsawfittomakethisworldWhatisittobe admitted to amuseum to see amyriadof particular things comparedwithbeingshownsomestarssurfacesomehardmatterinitshomeIstandinaweofmybody thismatter towhich Iamboundhasbecomesostrange tomeIfearnotspiritsghostsofwhichIamonemdashthatmybodymightmdashbutIfearbodiesItrembletomeetthemWhatisthisTitanthathaspossessionofmeTalkofmysteriesThinkofourlifeinnaturemdashdailytobeshownmattertocomeincontactwithitmdashrockstreeswindonourcheeksthesolidearththeactualworld thecommonsenseContactContactWhoarewewhereareweErelongwerecognizedsomerocksandotherfeaturesinthelandscapewhichwehadpurposely impressedonourmemoriesandquickeningourpacebytwooclockwereachedthebatteauHerewehadexpectedtodineontroutbutinthisglaringsunlighttheywereslowtotakethebaitsowewerecompelledtomakethemostof thecrumbsofourhard-breadandourporkwhichwereboth nearly exhaustedMeanwhilewe deliberatedwhetherwe should go uptheriveramilefarthertoGibsonsclearingontheSowadnehunkwheretherewasadesertedloghut inorder togetahalf-inchauger tomendoneofourspike-poleswith Therewere young spruce trees enough around us andwehad a spare spike but nothing tomake a holewithBut as itwas uncertainwhetherweshouldfindanytoolslefttherewepatchedupthebrokenpoleaswellaswecouldforthedownwardvoyageinwhichtherewouldbebutlittleuseforitMoreoverwewereunwillingtoloseanytimeinthisexpeditionlestthewindshouldrisebeforewereached the larger lakesanddetainus foramoderatewindproducesquiteaseaon thesewaters inwhichabatteauwillnot live for amoment and on one occasionMcCauslin had been delayed aweekattheheadoftheNorthTwinwhichisonlyfourmilesacrossWewerenearly out of provisions and ill prepared in this respect for what mightpossibly prove a weeks journey round by the shore fording innumerablestreams and threading a trackless forest should any accident happen to ourboatItwaswithregretthatweturnedourbacksonChesuncookwhichMcCauslinhadformerlyloggedonandtheAllegashlakesTherewerestilllongerrapidsandportagesaboveamongthelasttheRipogenusPortagewhichhedescribed

asthemostdifficultontheriverandthreemileslongThewholelengthofthePenobscotistwohundredandseventy-fivemilesandwearestillnearlyonehundredmilesfromitssourceHodgetheAssistantStateGeologistpassedupthisriverin1837andbyaportageofonlyonemileandthreequarterscrossedover into theAllegash and sowentdown that into theSt John andup theMadawaskato theGrandPortageacross to theStLawrenceHis is theonlyaccountthatIknowofanexpeditionthroughtoCanadainthisdirectionHethusdescribeshisfirstsightofthelatterriverwhichtocomparesmallthingswithgreatislikeBalboasfirstsightofthePacificfromthemountainsoftheIsthmusofDarienWhenwefirstcameinsightoftheStLawrencehesaysfrom the top of a high hill the view was most striking and much moreinterestingtomefromhavingbeenshutupinthewoodsforthetwopreviousmonthsDirectly before us lay the broad river extending across nine or tenmiles its surfacebrokenbya few islandsand reefs and twoships ridingatanchorneartheshoreBeyondextendedrangesofuncultivatedhillsparallelwith the river The sun was just going down behind them and gilding thewholescenewithitspartingraysAbout four oclock the same afternoon we commenced our return voyagewhichwould requirebut little if anypoling In shooting rapids theboatmenuselargeandbroadpaddlesinsteadofpolestoguidetheboatwithThoughweglidedsoswiftlyandoftensmoothlydownwhereithadcostusnoslightefforttogetupourpresentvoyagewasattendedwithfarmoredangerforifweoncefairlystruckoneofthethousandrocksbywhichweweresurroundedthe boat would be swamped in an instantWhen a boat is swamped underthese circumstances the boatmen commonly find no difficulty in keepingafloat at first for the current keepsboth themand their cargoup for a longwaydownthestreamandiftheycanswimtheyhaveonlytoworktheirwaygradually to the shore The greatest danger is of being caught in an eddybehind some larger rock where the water rushes up stream faster thanelsewhereitdoesdownandbeingcarriedroundandroundunderthesurfacetilltheyaredrownedMcCauslinpointedoutsomerockswhichhadbeenthesceneofafatalaccidentofthiskindSometimesthebodyisnotthrownoutforseveral hours He himself had performed such a circuit once only his legsbeingvisibletohiscompanionsbuthewasfortunatelythrownoutinseasontorecoverhisbreathInshootingtherapidstheboatmanhasthisproblemtosolve tochooseacircuitousandsafecourseamida thousandsunken rocksscattered over a quarter or half a mile at the same time that he is movingsteadily on at the rate of fifteen miles an hour Stop he cannot the onlyquestion iswherewill he goThe bowman chooses the coursewith all hiseyes abouthim strikingbroadoffwithhispaddle anddrawing theboatbymainforceintohercourseThesternmanfaithfullyfollowsthebowWeweresoonattheAboljacarmegusFallsAnxioustoavoidthedelayaswell

as the labor of the portage here our boatmen went forward first toreconnoitre and concluded to let the batteau down the falls carrying thebaggageonlyovertheportageJumpingfromrocktorockuntilnearlyinthemiddleofthestreamwewerereadytoreceivetheboatandletherdownoverthefirstfallsomesixorsevenfeetperpendicularTheboatmenstandupontheedgeofashelfofrockwherethefallisperhapsnineortenfeetperpendicularinfromonetotwofeetofrapidwateroneoneachsideoftheboatandletitslide gently over till the bow is run out ten or twelve feet in the air thenlettingitdropsquarelywhileoneholdsthepaintertheotherleapsinandhiscompanion following they are whirled down the rapids to a new fall or tosmooth water In a very few minutes they had accomplished a passage insafetywhichwouldbeasfoolhardyfortheunskillfultoattemptasthedescentofNiagaraitselfItseemedasifitneededonlyalittlefamiliarityandalittlemore skill to navigatedown such falls asNiagara itselfwith safetyAt anyrateIshouldnotdespairofsuchmenintherapidsaboveTableRockuntilIsaw them actually go over the falls so cool so collected so fertile inresourcesaretheyOnemighthavethoughtthatthesewerefallsandthatfallswerenot tobewaded throughwith impunity like amud-puddleTherewasreallydangeroftheirlosingtheirsublimityinlosingtheirpowertoharmusFamiliaritybreedscontemptTheboatmanpausesperchanceon someshelfbeneatha table-rockunder the fall standing in somecoveofbackwater twofeet deep and you hear his rough voice come up through the spray coollygivingdirectionshowtolaunchtheboatthistimeHaving carried roundPockwockomusFalls ouroars soonbrought us to theKatepskoneganorOakHallcarrywherewedecidedtocamphalf-wayoverleavingourbatteautobecarriedoverinthemorningonfreshshouldersOneshoulder of each of the boatmen showed a red spot as large as ones handwornbythebatteauonthisexpeditionandthisshoulderasitdidalltheworkwasperceptiblylowerthanitsfellowfromlongserviceSuchtoilsoonwearsoutthestrongestconstitutionThedriversareaccustomedtoworkinthecoldwater in the spring rarely ever dry and if one falls in all over he rarelychangeshisclothes tillnight if thenevenOnewhotakes thisprecautioniscalledbyaparticularnicknameoristurnedoffNonecanleadthislifewhoarenotalmostamphibiousMcCauslinsaidsoberlywhatisatanyrateagoodstorytotellthathehadseenwheresixmenwerewhollyunderwateratonceatajamwiththeirshoulderstohandspikesIfthelogdidnotstartthentheyhadtoputouttheirheadstobreatheThedriverworksaslongashecanseefrom dark to dark and at night has not time to eat his supper and dry hisclothes fairlybeforehe isasleeponhiscedarbedWe lay thatnighton theverybedmadebysuchapartystretchingourtentoverthepoleswhichwerestillstandingbutre-shinglingthedampandfadedbedwithfreshleavesInthemorningwecarriedourboatoverandlauncheditmakinghastelestthe

wind should rise The boatmen ran down Passamagamet and soon afterAmbejijisFallswhilewewalkedroundwith thebaggageWemadeahastybreakfast at the head of Ambejijis Lake on the remainder of our pork andwere soon rowingacross its smooth surface again under apleasant sky themountainbeingnowclearofcloudsinthenortheastTakingturnsattheoarsweshotrapidlyacrossDeepCove thefootofPamadumcookandtheNorthTwin at the rate of six miles an hour the wind not being high enough todisturbusand reached theDamatnoonTheboatmenwent throughoneofthe log sluices in thebatteauwhere the fallwas ten feet at thebottomandtookus inbelowHerewasthe longestrapid inourvoyageandperhaps therunning this was as dangerous and arduous a task as any Shooting downsometimesat the rate aswe judgedof fifteenmilesanhour ifwestruckarockweweresplitfromendtoendinaninstantNowlikeabaitbobbingforsome rivermonster amid theeddiesnowdarting to this sideof the streamnowtothatglidingswiftandsmoothneartoourdestructionorstrikingbroadoffwiththepaddleanddrawingtheboattorightorleftwithallourmightinordertoavoidarockIsupposethatitwaslikerunningtherapidsoftheSaultSainte Marie at the outlet of Lake Superior and our boatmen probablydisplayednolessdexteritythantheIndianstheredoWesoonranthroughthismileandfloatedinQuakishLakeAftersuchavoyage the troubledandangrywaterswhichoncehadseemedterribleandnottobetrifledwithappearedtamedandsubduedtheyhadbeenbeardedandworried in theirchannelsprickedandwhipped intosubmissionwiththespike-poleandpaddlegonethroughandthroughwithimpunityandall their spiritand theirdanger takenoutof themand themost swollenandimpetuous rivers seemed but playthings henceforth I began at length tounderstand the boatmans familiarity with and contempt for the rapidsThoseFowlerboyssaidMrsMcCauslinareperfectducksforthewaterThey had run down to Lincoln according to her thirty or fortymiles in abatteauinthenightforadoctorwhenitwassodarkthattheycouldnotseearodbefore them and the riverwas swollen so as to be almost a continuousrapidsothatthedoctorcriedwhentheybroughthimupbydaylightWhyTom how did you see to steer We didnt steer muchmdashonly kept herstraight And yet they met with no accident It is true the more difficultrapidsarehigherupthanthisWhenwereachedtheMillinocketoppositetoTomshouseandwerewaitingforhisfolkstosetusovermdashforwehadleftourbatteauabovetheGrandFallsmdashwe discovered two canoeswith twomen in each turning up this streamfromShadPond one keeping the opposite side of a small island before uswhile theotherapproached the sidewherewewere standing examining thebankscarefullyformuskratsastheycamealongThelastprovedtobeLouisNeptuneandhiscompanionnowatlastontheirwayuptoChesuncookafter

moose but they were so disguised that we hardly knew them At a littledistance theymight havebeen taken forQuakerswith their broad-brimmedhatsandovercoatswithbroadcapesthespoilsofBangorseekingasettlementin thisSylvaniamdashornearerathand for fashionablegentlemen themorningafteraspreeMetfacetofacetheseIndiansintheirnativewoodslookedlikethe sinister and slouching fellows whom you meet picking up strings andpaper in the streetsof a cityThere is in fact a remarkable andunexpectedresemblance between the degraded savage and the lowest classes in a greatcityTheone is nomore a childof nature than theother In theprogressofdegradation the distinction of races is soon lost Neptune at first was onlyanxioustoknowwhatwekillseeingsomepartridgesinthehandsofoneofthepartybutwehadassumedtoomuchangertopermitofareplyWethoughtIndianshadsomehonorbeforeButmdashMebeensickOhmeunwellnowYoumake bargain then me go They had in fact been delayed so long by adrunken frolic at the Five Islands and they had not yet recovered from itseffectsTheyhadsomeyoungmusquashintheircanoeswhichtheydugoutof thebankswithahoe for foodnot for theirskins formusquashare theirprincipalfoodontheseexpeditionsSotheywentonuptheMillinocketandwe kept down the bank of the Penobscot after recruiting ourselves with adraughtofTomsbeerleavingTomathishomeThus aman shall lead his life away here on the edge of thewilderness onIndianMillinocketStreaminanewworldfarinthedarkofacontinentandhaveaflutetoplayateveningherewhilehisstrainsechotothestarsamidthehowlingofwolvesshallliveasitwereintheprimitiveageoftheworlda primitivemanYet he shall spend a sunnyday and in this centurybemycontemporary perchance shall read some scattered leaves of literature andsometimes talk with me Why read history then if the ages and thegenerationsarenowHelivesthreethousandyearsdeepintotimeanagenotyetdescribedbypoetsCanyouwellgofurtherbackinhistorythanthisAyaymdashfor there turnsupbutnowinto themouthofMillinocketStreamastillmoreancientandprimitivemanwhosehistory isnotbroughtdowneven totheformerInabarkvesselsewnwiththerootsofthesprucewithhorn-beampaddleshedipshiswayalongHeisbutdimandmisty tomeobscuredbytheaeligonsthatliebetweenthebarkcanoeandthebatteauHebuildsnohouseof logs but a wigwam of skins He eats no hot bread and sweet cake butmusquashandmoosemeatandthefatofbearsHeglidesuptheMillinocketand is lost tomysight asamoredistantandmistycloud is seen flittingbybehindanearerandislostinspaceSohegoesabouthisdestinytheredfaceofmanAfter having passed the night and buttered our boots for the last time atUncle Georges whose dogs almost devoured him for joy at his return wekeptondowntheriverthenextdayabouteightmilesonfootandthentooka

batteauwithamantopoleit toMattawamkeagtenmoreAtthemiddleofthat very night tomake a swift conclusion to a long storywedroppedourbuggyoverthehalf-finishedbridgeatOldtownwhereweheardtheconfuseddinandclinkofahundredsawswhichneverrestandatsixoclockthenextmorningoneofthepartywassteaminghiswaytoMassachusettsWhat ismost striking in theMainewilderness is the continuousness of theforestwithfeweropenintervalsorgladesthanyouhadimaginedExceptthefewburnt lands thenarrowintervalson the rivers thebare topsof thehighmountains and the lakes and streams the forest is uninterrupted It is evenmoregrimandwildthanyouhadanticipatedadampandintricatewildernessin thespringeverywherewetandmiryTheaspectof thecountry indeed isuniversally stern and savage excepting the distant views of the forest fromhills and the lakeprospectswhich aremild and civilizing in a degreeThelakes are something which you are unprepared for they lie up so highexposed to the light and the forest is diminished to a fine fringe on theiredgeswithhereand thereabluemountain likeamethyst jewels set aroundsomejewelofthefirstwatermdashsoanteriorsosuperiortoallthechangesthataretotakeplaceontheirshoresevennowcivilandrefinedandfairastheycaneverbeThesearenot theartificial forestsof anEnglishkingmdasha royalpreserve merely Here prevail no forest laws but those of nature TheaborigineshaveneverbeendispossessednornaturedisforestedIt is a country full of evergreen trees of mossy silver birches and waterymaples the ground dotted with insipid small red berries and strewn withdampandmoss-grown rocksmdashacountrydiversifiedwith innumerable lakesand rapid streams peopled with trout and various species of leucisci withsalmon shad and pickerel and other fishes the forest resounding at rareintervalswiththenoteofthechickadeethebluejayandthewoodpeckerthescreamofthefishhawkandtheeaglethelaughoftheloonandthewhistleofducks along the solitary streams at night with the hooting of owls andhowling of wolves in summer swarming with myriads of black flies andmosquitoesmoreformidablethanwolvestothewhitemanSuchisthehomeofthemoosethebearthecaribouthewolfthebeaverandtheIndianWhoshalldescribetheinexpressibletendernessandimmortallifeofthegrimforestwhereNaturethoughitbemidwinter iseverinherspringwherethemoss-grownanddecayingtreesarenotoldbutseemtoenjoyaperpetualyouthandblissful innocentNature likea serene infant is toohappy tomakeanoiseexceptbyafewtinklinglispingbirdsandtricklingrillsWhataplacetolivewhataplacetodieandbeburiedinTherecertainlymenwouldliveforeverandlaughatdeathandthegraveTheretheycouldhavenosuchthoughtsasareassociatedwiththevillagegraveyardmdashthatmakeagraveoutofoneofthosemoistevergreenhummocks

DieandbeburiedwhowillImeantoliveherestillMynaturegrowsevermoreyoungTheprimitivepinesamongIamremindedbymyjourneyhowexceedinglynewthiscountrystillisYouhaveonlytotravelforafewdaysintotheinteriorandbackpartsevenofmanyof the old States to come to that very America which the Northmen andCabotandGosnoldandSmithandRaleighvisitedIfColumbuswasthefirsttodiscovertheislandsAmericusVespuciusandCabotandthePuritansandwetheirdescendantshavediscoveredonlytheshoresofAmericaWhiletheRepublichasalreadyacquiredahistoryworld-wideAmericaisstillunsettledandunexploredLiketheEnglishinNewHollandweliveonlyontheshoresofacontinentevenyetandhardlyknowwhere theriverscomefromwhichfloatournavyTheverytimberandboardsandshinglesofwhichourhousesaremadegrewbutyesterdayinawildernesswheretheIndianstillhuntsandthemoose runswildNewYorkhasherwildernesswithinherownbordersand though the sailors of Europe are familiar with the soundings of herHudsonandFultonlongsinceinventedthesteamboatonitswatersanIndianis still necessary to guide her scientific men to its headwaters in theAdirondackcountryHaveweevensomuchasdiscoveredandsettledtheshoresLetamantravelonfootalongthecoastfromthePassamaquoddytotheSabineortotheRioBravo or to wherever the end is now if he is swift enough to overtake itfaithfully following the windings of every inlet and of every cape andsteppingtothemusicofthesurfmdashwithadesolatefishingtownonceaweekandacitysportonceamonthtocheerhimandputtingupatthelighthouseswhen there are anymdashand tell me if it looks like a discovered and settledcountryandnotratherforthemostpartlikeadesolateislandandNo-MansLandWehaveadvancedbyleapstothePacificandleftmanyalesserOregonandCaliforniaunexploredbehindusThoughtherailroadandthe telegraphhavebeen establishedon the shores ofMaine the Indian still looks out fromherinteriormountainsoverall these to theseaTherestands thecityofBangorfiftymilesupthePenobscotattheheadofnavigationforvesselsofthelargestclasstheprincipallumberdepotonthiscontinentwithapopulationoftwelvethousandlikeastarontheedgeofnightstillhewingattheforestsofwhichitisbuiltalreadyoverflowingwiththeluxuriesandrefinementofEuropeandsending its vessels to Spain to England and to the West Indies for itsgroceriesmdashandyetonlyafewaxemenhavegoneupriverintothehowlingwildernesswhichfeedsitThebearanddeerarestillfoundwithinits limits

andthemooseasheswimsthePenobscotisentangledamiditsshippingandtakenbyforeignsailorsinitsharborTwelvemilesinthereartwelvemilesofrailroadareOronoandtheIndianIslandthehomeofthePenobscottribeandthen commence the batteau and the canoe and themilitary road and sixtymilesabovethecountryisvirtuallyunmappedandunexploredandtherestillwavesthevirginforestoftheNewWorld

CHESUNCOOK

AtfiveSeptember131853IleftBostoninthesteamerforBangorbytheoutsidecourseItwasawarmandstillnightmdashwarmerprobablyonthewaterthan on the landmdashand the sea was as smooth as a small lake in summermerelyrippledThepassengerswentsingingonthedeckasinaparlortilltenoclock We passed a vessel on her beam-ends on a rock just outside theislandsandsomeofusthoughtthatshewastheraptshipwhichranonhersidesolowThatshedrankwaterandherkeelploughedairnot considering that therewas nowind and that shewas under bare polesNowwe have left the islands behind and are off NahantWe behold thosefeatureswhich the discoverers saw apparently unchanged Nowwe see theCape Ann lights and now pass near a small village-like fleet of mackerelfishers at anchor probablyoffGloucesterThey saluteuswith a shout fromtheir lowdecks but I understand their Good-evening tomean Dont runagainstme sir From thewonders of the deepwe go below to yet deepersleepAnd then theabsurdityofbeingwakedup in thenightbyamanwhowants the jobofblackingyourboots It ismore inevitable thanseasicknessand may have something to do with it It is like the ducking you get oncrossingthelinethefirsttimeItrustedthattheseoldcustomswereabolishedTheymightwith the samepropriety insist onblackingyour face I heardofonemanwhocomplainedthatsomebodyhadstolenhisbootsinthenightandwhenhefoundthemhewantedtoknowwhattheyhaddonetothemmdashtheyhad spoiled themmdashhe never put that stuff on them and the bootblacknarrowlyescapedpayingdamagesAnxioustogetoutofthewhalesbellyIroseearlyandjoinedsomeoldsaltswhoweresmokingbyadimlightonashelteredpartofthedeckWewerejustgetting into the riverTheyknewall about itofcourse Iwasproud to findthat I had stood the voyage so well andwas not in the least digestedWebrushedupandwatchedthefirstsignsofdawnthroughanopenportbutthedayseemedtohangfireWeinquiredthetimenoneofmycompanionshada

chronometer At length an African prince rushed by observing TwelveoclockgentlemenandblewoutthelightItwasmoonriseSoIslunkdownintothemonstersbowelsagainThe first land we make is Monhegan Island before dawn and next StGeorgesIslandsseeingtwoorthreelightsWhiteheadwithitsbarerocksandfunerealbell isinterestingNextIrememberthattheCamdenHillsattractedmy eyes and afterward the hills about FrankfortWe reachedBangor aboutnoonWhenIarrivedmycompanionthatwastobehadgoneupriverandengagedan Indian JoeAitteon a sonof theGovernor togowithus toChesuncookLake Joe had conducted two white men a-moose-hunting in the samedirectiontheyearbeforeHearrivedbycarsatBangorthateveningwithhiscanoeandacompanionSabattisSolomonwhowasgoingtoleaveBangorthefollowingMondaywithJoesfatherbywayofthePenobscotandjoinJoeinmoose-huntingatChesuncookwhenwehaddonewithhimTheytooksupperatmyfriendshouseandlodgedinhisbarnsayingthattheyshouldfareworsethanthatinthewoodsTheyonlymadeWatchbarkalittlewhentheycametothedoorinthenightforwaterforhedoesnotlikeIndiansThe next morning Joe and his canoe were put on board the stage forMooseheadLakesixtyandoddmilesdistantanhourbeforewestartedinanopen wagon We carried hard-bread pork smoked beef tea sugar etcseemingly enough for a regiment the sight of which brought togetherremindedmebywhatignoblemeanswehadmaintainedourgroundhithertoWe went by the Avenue Road which is quite straight and very goodnorthwestward toward Moosehead Lake through more than a dozenflourishing towns with almost every one its academymdashnot one of whichhoweverisonmyGeneralAtlaspublishedalasin1824somucharetheybeforetheageorIbehinditTheearthmusthavebeenconsiderablylightertotheshouldersofGeneralAtlasthenIt rainedall thisdayand till themiddleof thenext forenoonconcealing thelandscapealmostentirelybutwehadhardlygotoutofthestreetsofBangorbeforeIbegan tobeexhilaratedby thesightof thewildfirandspruce topsand those of other primitive evergreens peering through the mist in thehorizonItwas like thesightandodorofcaketoaschoolboyHewhoridesandkeepsthebeatentrackstudiesthefenceschieflyNearBangorthefence-posts on account of the frosts heaving them in the clayey soil were notplanted in the ground but weremortised into a transverse horizontal beamlying on the surface Afterwards the prevailing fences were log ones withsometimesaVirginiafenceorelserailsslantedovercrossedstakesandthesezigzaggedorplayedleap-frogallthewaytothelakekeepingjustaheadofusAftergettingoutofthePenobscotvalleythecountrywasunexpectedlylevel

orconsistedofveryevenandequal swells for twentyor thirtymilesneverrisingabovethegenerallevelbutaffordingitissaidaverygoodprospectinclearweatherwithfrequentviewsofKtaadnmdashstraight roadsand longhillsThe houses were far apart commonly small and of one story but framedTherewasverylittlelandundercultivationyettheforestdidnotoftenbordertheroadThestumpswerefrequentlyashighasonesheadshowingthedepthofthesnowsThewhitehay-capsdrawnoversmallstacksofbeansorcorninthefieldsonaccountoftherainwereanovelsighttomeWesawlargeflocksof pigeons and several times camewithin a rod or two of partridges in theroadMycompanionsaidthatinonejourneyoutofBangorheandhissonhadshot sixty partridges from his buggy The mountain-ash was now veryhandsome as also the wayfarers-tree or hobble-bush with its ripe purpleberries mixed with red The Canada thistle an introduced plant was theprevailingweedallthewaytothelaketheroadsideinmanyplacesandfieldsnotlongclearedbeingdenselyfilledwithitaswithacroptotheexclusionofeverything else There were also whole fields full of ferns now rusty andwithering which in older countries are commonly confined to wet groundTherewereveryfewflowersevenallowingforthelatenessoftheseasonItchanced that I sawnoasters inbloomalong the road for fiftymiles thoughtheyweresoabundanttheninMassachusettsmdashexceptinoneplaceoneortwoof the Aster acuminatusmdashand no golden-rods till within twenty miles ofMonsonwhere I saw a three-ribbed one Thereweremany late buttercupshoweverandthetwofire-weedserechthitesandepilobiumcommonlywherethere had been a burning and at last the pearly everlasting I noticedoccasionally very long troughswhich supplied the roadwithwater andmycompanion said that threedollars annuallyweregrantedby theState to oneman in each school-district who provided andmaintained a suitablewater-trough by the roadside for the use of travelersmdasha piece of intelligence asrefreshingtomeasthewateritselfThatlegislaturedidnotsitinvainItwasan Oriental act which made me wish that I was still farther down EastmdashanotherMainelawwhichIhopewemaygetinMassachusettsThatStateisbanishingbar-roomsfromitshighwaysandconductingthemountainspringsthitherThe country was first decidedly mountainous in Garland Sangerville andonwards twenty-fiveor thirtymiles fromBangorAtSangervillewherewestoppedatmid-afternoontowarmanddryourselvesthelandlordtoldusthathehadfoundawildernesswherewefoundhimAtaforkintheroadbetweenAbbotandMonsonabouttwentymilesfromMooseheadLakeIsawaguide-postsurmountedbyapairofmoosehornsspreadingfourorfivefeetwiththewordMonsonpaintedononebladeandthenameofsomeothertownontheotherTheyaresometimesusedforornamentalhat-treestogetherwithdeershornsinfrontentriesbutaftertheexperiencewhichIshallrelateItrustthat

IshallhaveabetterexcuseforkillingamoosethanthatImayhangmyhatonhishornsWereachedMonsonfiftymilesfromBangorandthirteenfromthelakeafterdarkAtfouroclockthenextmorninginthedarkandstillintherainwepursuedour journey Close to the academy in this town they have erected a sort ofgallowsforthepupilstopracticeonIthoughtthattheymightaswellhangatonce allwhoneed to go through such exercises in sonewa countrywherethere isnothing tohinder their livinganoutdoor lifeBetteromitBlair andtaketheairThecountryaboutthesouthendofthelakeisquitemountainousand the road began to feel the effects of it There is one hill which it iscalculatedittakestwenty-fiveminutestoascendInmanyplacestheroadwasin that condition called repaired having just beenwhittled into the requiredsemicylindrical form with the shovel and scraper with all the softestinequalitiesinthemiddlelikeahogsbackwiththebristlesupandJehuwasexpectedtokeepastrideofthespineAsyoulookedoffeachsideofthebaresphereintothehorizontheditcheswereawfultobeholdmdashavasthollownesslike that between Saturn and his ring At a tavern hereabouts the hostlergreeted our horse as an old acquaintance though he did not remember thedriverHesaidthathehadtakencareofthatlittlemareforashorttimeayearortwobeforeattheMountKineoHouseandthoughtshewasnotinasgoodconditionas thenEveryman tohis trade IamnotacquaintedwithasinglehorseintheworldnoteventheonethatkickedmeAlreadywehadthoughtthatwesawMooseheadLakefromahilltopwhereanextensivefogfilledthedistantlowlandsbutweweremistakenItwasnottillwewerewithinamileortwoofitssouthendthatwegotourfirstviewofitmdasha suitably wild-looking sheet of water sprinkled with small low islandswhichwerecoveredwithshaggyspruceandotherwildwoodmdashseenovertheinfantportofGreenvillewithmountainsoneachsideandfarinthenorthandasteamerssmoke-piperisingabovearoofApairofmoose-hornsornamentedacornerofthepublichousewhereweleftourhorseandafewrodsdistantlaythe small steamerMoosehead Captain King There was no village and nosummer road any farther in this direction but a winter road that is onepassableonlywhendeepsnowcoversitsinequalitiesfromGreenvilleuptheeastsideofthelaketoLilyBayabouttwelvemilesIwasherefirstintroducedtoJoeHehadriddenallthewayontheoutsideofthe stage the day before in the rain giving way to ladies and was wellwettedAsitstillrainedheaskedifweweregoingtoputitthroughHewasa good-looking Indian twenty-four years old apparently of unmixed bloodshortandstoutwithabroadfaceandreddishcomplexionandeyesmethinksnarrowerandmoreturnedupattheoutercornersthanoursansweringtothedescriptionofhisraceBesideshisunderclothingheworearedflannelshirt

woolenpantsandablackKossuthhattheordinarydressofthelumbermanand to a considerable extent of the Penobscot IndianWhen afterward hehad occasion to take off his shoes and stockings I was struck with thesmallness of his feet He had worked a good deal as a lumberman andappearedtoidentifyhimselfwiththatclassHewastheonlyoneofthepartywhopossessedanindia-rubberjacketThetopstriporedgeofhiscanoewaswornnearlythroughbyfrictiononthestageAt eight oclock the steamer with her bell and whistle scaring the moosesummonedusonboardShewasawell-appointedlittleboatcommandedbyagentlemanly captainwith patent life-seats andmetallic life-boat anddinneronboardifyouwishSheischieflyusedbylumberersforthetransportationofthemselvestheirboatsandsuppliesbutalsobyhuntersandtouristsTherewasanothersteamernamedAmphitritelaidupclosebybutapparentlyhername was not more trite than her hull There were also two or three largesailboats inportThesebeginningsofcommerceona lake in thewildernessareveryinterestingmdashtheselargerwhitebirdsthatcometokeepcompanywiththegullsTherewerebutfewpassengersandnotonefemaleamongthemaStFrancisIndianwithhiscanoeandmoose-hidestwoexplorersforlumberthreemenwholandedatSandbarIslandandagentlemanwholivesonDeerIslandelevenmilesupthelakeandownsalsoSugarIslandbetweenwhichand theformer thesteamerruns these I thinkwereallbesideourselves Inthesaloonwassomekindofmusical instrumentmdashcherubimorseraphimmdashtosoothetheangrywavesandthereveryproperlywastackedupthemapofthepubliclandsofMaineandMassachusettsacopyofwhichIhadinmypocketThe heavy rain confining us to the saloon awhile I discoursed with theproprietor of Sugar Island on the condition of the world in Old TestamenttimesButat length leaving this subjectas freshaswe found ithe toldmethathehadlivedaboutthislaketwentyorthirtyyearsandyethadnotbeentotheheadofitfortwenty-oneyearsHefacestheotherwayTheexplorershada finenewbirchonboard larger thanours inwhich theyhadcomeup thePiscataquisfromHowlandandtheyhadhadseveralmessesoftroutalreadyTheyweregoingtotheneighborhoodofEagleandChamberlainlakesorthehead-watersoftheStJohnandofferedtokeepuscompanyasfaraswewentThelaketo-daywasrougherthanIfoundtheoceaneithergoingorreturningand Joe remarked that itwould swamphisbirchOffLilyBay it is adozenmileswidebutitismuchbrokenbyislandsThesceneryisnotmerelywildbutvariedandinterestingmountainswereseenfartherorneareronallsidesbut thenorthwest theirsummitsnowlost in thecloudsbutMountKineo isthe principal feature of the lake and more exclusively belongs to it AfterleavingGreenvilleat thefootwhichis thenucleusofa townsomeeightortenyearsoldyouseebutthreeorfourhousesforthewholelengthofthelakeoraboutfortymiles threeof themthepublichousesatwhichthesteameris

advertised to stop and the shore is an unbrokenwilderness The prevailingwood seemed to be spruce fir birch and rock maple You could easilydistinguishthehardwoodfromthesoftorblackgrowthasitiscalledatagreatdistancetheformerbeingsmoothround-toppedandlightgreenwithaboweryandcultivatedlookMountKineoatwhich theboat touched isapeninsulawithanarrowneckaboutmidwaythelakeontheeastsideThecelebratedprecipiceisontheeastorlandsideofthisandissohighandperpendicularthatyoucanjumpfromthetopmanyhundredfeetintothewaterwhichmakesupbehindthepointAmanon board told us that an anchor had been sunkninety fathoms at itsbasebeforereachingbottomProbablyitwillbediscoverederelongthatsomeIndian maiden jumped off it for love once for true love never could havefoundapathmoretoitsmindWepassedquiteclosetotherockheresinceitisaveryboldshoreandIobservedmarksofariseoffourorfivefeetonitTheStFrancisIndianexpectedtotakeinhisboyherebuthewasnotatthelandingThefatherssharpeyeshoweverdetectedacanoewithhisboyinitfarawayunder themountain thoughnooneelsecouldsee itWhere is thecanoeaskedthecaptainIdontseeitbutheheldonneverthelessandbyandbyithoveinsightWe reached the head of the lake about noon The weather had in themeanwhile clearedup though themountainswere still cappedwith cloudsSeen from this pointMountKineo and twoother alliedmountains rangingwithitnortheasterlypresentedaverystrongfamilylikenessas ifallcast inone mould The steamer here approached a long pier projecting from thenorthernwildernessandbuiltofsomeof its logsandwhistledwherenotacabinnoramortalwastobeseenTheshorewasquitelowwithflatrocksonitoverhungwithblackasharbor-vitaeligetcwhichatfirstlookedasiftheydidnotcareawhistle forusTherewasnotasinglecabman tocryCoachorinveigleus to theUnitedStatesHotelAt length aMrHinckleywhohas acampattheotherendofthecarryappearedwithatruckdrawnbyanoxandahorseoverarudelog-railwaythroughthewoodsThenextthingwastogetour canoe and effects over the carry from this lake oneof the heads of theKennebec into thePenobscotRiverThis railway from the lake to the riveroccupiedthemiddleofaclearingtwoorthreerodswideandperfectlystraightthrough the forestWewalked acrosswhileourbaggagewasdrawnbehindMy companion went ahead to be ready for partridges while I followedlookingattheplantsThiswas an interesting botanical locality for one coming from the south tocommencewithformanyplantswhichareratherrareandoneortwowhichare not found at all in the eastern part ofMassachusetts grew abundantlybetweentherailsmdashasLabrador-teaKalmiaglaucaCanadablueberry(which

wasstillinfruitandasecondtimeinbloom)ClintoniaandLinnaeligaborealiswhich last a lumberer called moxon creeping snowberry painted trilliumlarge-flowered bellwort etc I fancied that the Aster Radula Diplopappusumbellatus Solidago lanceolata red trumpet-weed and many others whichwereconspicuouslyinbloomontheshoreofthelakeandonthecarryhadapeculiarlywildandprimitivelookthereThespruceandfirtreescrowdedtothetrackoneachsidetowelcomeusthearbor-vitaeligwithitschangingleavespromptedustomakehasteandthesightofthecanoebirchgaveusspiritstodo so Sometimes an evergreen just fallen lay across the trackwith its richburden of cones looking still fuller of life than our trees in the mostfavorablepositionsYoudidnotexpect to findsuchspruce trees in thewildwoods but they evidently attend to their toilets each morning even thereThroughsuchafrontyarddidweenterthatwildernessTherewasaveryslightriseabovethelakemdashthecountryappearinglikeandperhaps being partly a swampmdashand at length a gradual descent to thePenobscotwhichIwassurprisedtofindherealargestreamfromtwelvetofifteenrodswideflowingfromwesttoeastoratrightangleswiththelakeandnotmorethantwoandahalfmilesfromitThedistanceisnearlytwicetoogreatontheMapofthePublicLandsandonColtonsMapofMaineandRussellStreamisplacedtoofardownJacksonmakesMooseheadLaketobeninehundredandsixtyfeetabovehighwater inPortlandharbor It ishigherthanChesuncookforthelumberersconsiderthePenobscotwherewestruckittwenty-fivefeetlowerthanMooseheadthougheightmilesaboveitissaidtobe thehighest so that thewatercanbemade to floweitherwayand theriver falls a gooddeal betweenhere andChesuncookThe carry-man calledthis about one hundred and forty miles above Bangor by the river or twohundred from the ocean and fifty-fivemiles belowHiltons on theCanadaroadthefirstclearingabovewhichisfourandahalfmilesfromthesourceofthePenobscotAtthenorthendofthecarryinthemidstofaclearingofsixtyacresormoretherewas a log campof theusual constructionwith somethingmore like ahouseadjoiningfortheaccommodationofthecarry-mansfamilyandpassinglumberers The bed ofwithered fir twigs smelled very sweet though reallyverydirtyTherewasalsoa store-houseon thebankof the rivercontainingporkflourironbatteauxandbircheslockedupWenowproceededtogetourdinnerwhichalwaysturnedouttobeteaandtopitchcanoesforwhichpurposealargeironpotlaypermanentlyonthebankThiswe did in companywith the explorers Both Indians andwhites use amixtureofrosinandgreasefor thispurpose that is for thepitchingnot thedinner Joe took a small brand from the fire and blew the heat and flameagainstthepitchonhisbirchandsomeltedandspreaditSometimesheput

hismouthoverthesuspectedspotandsuckedtoseeifitadmittedairandatone place where we stopped he set his canoe high on crossed stakes andpouredwaterintoitInarrowlywatchedhismotionsandlistenedattentivelytohisobservationsforwehademployedanIndianmainlythatImighthaveanopportunitytostudyhiswaysIheardhimswearoncemildlyduringthisoperationabouthisknifebeingasdullasahoemdashanaccomplishmentwhichhe owed to his intercoursewith thewhites and he remarked Weought tohavesometeabeforewestartweshallbehungrybeforewekillthatmooseAtmid-afternoonweembarkedonthePenobscotOurbirchwasnineteenandahalffeetlongbytwoandahalfatthewidestpartandfourteeninchesdeepwithin both ends alike and painted green which Joe thought affected thepitch andmade it leakThis I thinkwas amiddling-sizedoneThat of theexplorerswasmuchlargerthoughprobablynotmuchlongerThiscarriedusthreewithourbaggageweighinginallbetweenfivehundredandfiftyandsixhundredpoundsWehadtwoheavythoughslenderrock-maplepaddlesoneofthemofbirds-eyemapleJoeplacedbirch-barkonthebottomforustositonandslantedcedarsplintsagainstthecross-barstoprotectourbackswhilehehimselfsatuponacross-barinthesternThebaggageoccupiedthemiddleorwidestpartofthecanoeWealsopaddledbyturnsinthebowsnowsittingwithour legs extendednowsittinguponour legs andnow risinguponourkneesbutIfoundnoneofthesepositionsendurableandwasremindedofthecomplaintsoftheoldJesuitmissionariesofthetorturetheyenduredfromlongconfinement in constrained positions in canoes in their long voyages fromQuebectotheHuroncountrybutafterwardsIsatonthecross-barsorstoodupandexperiencednoinconvenienceItwasdeadwater foracoupleofmilesTheriverhadbeenraisedabout twofeet by the rain and lumberers were hoping for a flood sufficient to bringdownthelogsthatwereleft inthespringItsbanksweresevenoreightfeethighanddenselycoveredwithwhiteandblacksprucemdashwhichIthinkmustbethecommonesttreesthereaboutsmdashfirarbor-vitaeligcanoeyellowandblackbirchrockmountainandafewredmaplesbeechblackandmountainashthelarge-toothedaspenmanycivil-lookingelmsnowimbrownedalongthestream and at first a fewhemlocks alsoWe had not gone far before IwasstartledbyseeingwhatIthoughtwasanIndianencampmentcoveredwitharedflagonthebankandexclaimedCamptomycomradesIwasslowtodiscover that itwasaredmaplechangedbythefrostTheimmediateshoreswerealsodenselycoveredwiththespeckledalderredosiershrubbywillowsor sallows and the like There were a few yellow lily pads still left half-drowned along the sides and sometimes awhite oneMany fresh tracksofmoosewere visiblewhere thewaterwas shallow and on the shore the lilystemswerefreshlybittenoffbythem

After paddling about twomilesweparted companywith the explorers andturned upLobster Streamwhich comes in on the right from the southeastThiswassixoreightrodswideandappearedtorunnearlyparallelwiththePenobscotJoesaidthatitwassocalledfromsmallfresh-waterlobstersfoundin it It is theMatahumkeagof themapsMycompanionwished to look formoosesignsandintendedifitprovedworththewhiletocampupthatwaysincetheIndianadviseditOnaccountoftheriseofthePenobscotthewaterran up this stream to the pond of the same name one or two miles TheSpencerMountains east of the north end ofMooseheadLakewere now inplain sight in front of us The kingfisher flew before us the pigeonwoodpeckerwasseenandheardandnuthatchesandchickadeescloseathandJoesaidthattheycalledthechickadeekecunnilessuinhislanguageIwillnotvouch for the spelling of what possibly was never spelt before but IpronouncedafterhimtillhesaiditwoulddoWepassedclosetoawoodcockwhich stood perfectly still on the shorewith feathers puffed up as if sickThisJoesaidtheycallednipsquecohossusThekingfisherwasskuscumonsuckbearwaswassus Indian devil lunxus themountain-ash upahsis ThiswasveryabundantandbeautifulMoosetrackswerenotsofreshalongthisstreamexceptinasmallcreekaboutamileupitwherealargeloghadlodgedinthespringmarkedW-cross-girdle-crow-footWesawapairofmoose-hornsontheshoreandIaskedJoeifamoosehadshedthembuthesaidtherewasaheadattachedtothemandIknewthattheydidnotshedtheirheadsmorethanonceintheirlivesAfterascendingaboutamileandahalftowithinashortdistanceofLobsterLakewereturnedto thePenobscotJustbelowthemouthof theLobsterwefoundquickwater and the riverexpanded to twentyor thirty rods inwidthThemoose-trackswerequitenumerousandfreshhereWenoticedinagreatmanyplacesnarrowandwell-troddenpathsbywhichtheyhadcomedowntotheriverandwheretheyhadslidonthesteepandclayeybankTheirtrackswereeitherclosetotheedgeofthestreamthoseofthecalvesdistinguishablefromtheothersor inshallowwater theholesmadeby their feet in thesoftbottombeingvisibleforalongtimeTheywereparticularlynumerouswherethere was a small bay or pokelogan as it is called bordered by a strip ofmeadoworseparatedfromtheriverbya lowpeninsulacoveredwithcoarsegrasswool-grassetcwhereintheyhadwadedbackandforthandeatenthepadsWedetectedtheremainsofoneinsuchaspotAtoneplacewherewelandedtopickupasummerduckwhichmycompanionhadshotJoepeeledacanoebirchforbarkforhishunting-hornHethenaskedifwewerenotgoingtogettheotherduckforhissharpeyeshadseenanotherfallinthebushesalittlefartheralongandmycompanionobtaineditInowbegantonoticethebright red berries of the tree-cranberry which grows eight or ten feet highmingledwiththealdersandcornelalongtheshoreTherewaslesshardwood

thanatfirstAfterproceedingamileandthreequartersbelowthemouthoftheLobsterwereached about sundown a small island at the head of what Joe called theMoosehornDeadwater (theMoosehorn inwhich hewas going to hunt thatnight coming in about threemiles below) andon theupper endof thiswedecidedtocampOnapointatthelowerendlaythecarcassofamoosekilledamonthormorebeforeWeconcludedmerelytoprepareourcampandleaveour baggage here that all might be ready when we returned from moose-huntingThoughIhadnotcomea-huntingandfeltsomecompunctionsaboutaccompanyingthehuntersIwishedtoseeamoosenearathandandwasnotsorry to learn how the Indian managed to kill one I went as reporter orchaplain to the huntersmdashand the chaplain has been known to carry a gunhimselfAfterclearingasmallspaceamidthedensespruceandfir treeswecovered the damp groundwith a shingling of fir twigs andwhile Joewaspreparing his birch horn and pitching his canoemdashfor this had to be donewheneverwestoppedlongenoughtobuildafireandwastheprincipallaborwhichhe tookuponhimself at such timesmdashwecollected fuel for thenightlargewetandrottinglogswhichhadlodgedattheheadoftheislandforourhatchetwastoosmallforeffectivechoppingbutwedidnotkindleafirelestthemooseshouldsmellitJoesetupacoupleofforkedstakesandpreparedhalfadozenpolesreadytocastoneofourblanketsoverincaseitrainedinthe night which precaution however was omitted the next nightWe alsopluckedtheduckswhichhadbeenkilledforbreakfastWhilewewerethusengagedinthetwilightweheardfaintlyfromfardownthe streamwhat sounded like two strokes of awoodchoppers axe echoingdullythroughthegrimsolitudeWearewonttolikenmanysoundsheardatadistanceintheforesttothestrokeofanaxebecausetheyresembleeachotherunderthosecircumstancesandthatistheonewecommonlyhearthereWhenwetoldJoeofthisheexclaimedByGeorgeIllbetthatwasamooseTheymakeanoiselikethatThesesoundsaffectedusstrangelyandbytheirveryresemblancetoafamiliaronewheretheyprobablyhadsodifferentanoriginenhancedtheimpressionofsolitudeandwildnessAt starlightwe dropped down the streamwhichwas a deadwater for threemilesorasfarastheMoosehornJoetellingusthatwemustbeverysilentand he himselfmaking no noisewith his paddle while he urged the canoealongwitheffectiveimpulsesItwasastillnightandsuitableforthispurposemdashforifthereiswindthemoosewillsmellyoumdashandJoewasveryconfidentthatheshouldgetsomeTheHarvestMoonhadjustrisenandits levelraysbegan to light up the forest on our rightwhilewe glided downward in theshadeon the same side against the little breeze thatwas stirringThe loftyspiring topsof the spruceand firwereveryblackagainst the skyandmore

distinct thanbydaycloseborderingthisbroadavenueoneachsideandthebeautyofthesceneasthemoonroseabovetheforestitwouldnotbeeasytodescribeAbatflewoverourheadsandweheardafewfaintnotesofbirdsfromtimetotimeperhapsthemyrtle-birdforoneorthesuddenplungeofamusquashorsawonecrossingthestreambeforeusorheardthesoundofarill emptying in swollen by the recent rainAbout amile below the islandwhen the solitude seemed to be growingmore complete everymomentwesuddenly saw the light and heard the crackling of a fire on the bank anddiscoveredthecampofthetwoexplorerstheystandingbeforeitintheirredshirtsand talkingaloudof theadventuresandprofitsof thedayTheywerejust then speaking of a bargain in which as I understood somebody hadcleared twenty-five dollarsWe glided bywithout speaking close under thebankwithinacoupleofrodsof themandJoe takinghishorn imitatedthecallofthemoosetillwesuggestedthattheymightfireonusThiswasthelastwesawofthemandweneverknewwhethertheydetectedorsuspectedusIhaveoftenwishedsincethatIwaswiththemTheysearchfortimberoveragiven section climbing hills and often high trees to look off explore thestreamsbywhichitistobedrivenandthelikespendfiveorsixweeksinthewoods they two alone a hundred miles or more from any town roamingabout and sleeping on the ground where night overtakes them dependingchiefly on the provisions they carry with them though they do not declinewhatgametheycomeacrossandtheninthefalltheyreturnandmakereporttotheiremployersdeterminingthenumberofteamsthatwillberequiredthefollowing winter Experienced men get three or four dollars a day for thiswork It is a solitary and adventurous life and comes nearest to that of thetrapperoftheWestperhapsTheyworkeverwithagunaswellasanaxelettheir beards grow and livewithout neighbors not on anopenplain but farwithinawildernessThisdiscoveryaccountedfor thesoundswhichwehadheardanddestroyedthe prospect of seeing moose yet awhile At length when we had left theexplorersfarbehindJoelaiddownhispaddledrewforthhisbirchhornmdashastraightoneaboutfifteenincheslongandthreeorfourwideatthemouthtiedroundwithstripsofthesamebarkmdashandstandingupimitatedthecallofthemoosemdashugh-ugh-ughoroo-oo-oo-ooandthenaprolongedoo-o-o-o-o-o-o-o and listened attentively for several minutesWe asked himwhat kind ofnoise he expected to hear He said that if amoose heard it he guessedweshouldfindoutweshouldhearhimcominghalfamileoffhewouldcomeclosetoperhapsintothewaterandmycompanionmustwaittillhegotfairsightandthenaimjustbehindtheshoulderThemooseventureouttotheriversidetofeedanddrinkatnightEarlierintheseasonthehuntersdonotuseahorntocallthemoutbutstealuponthemas

theyarefeedingalongthesidesof thestreamandoftenthefirstnoticetheyhave of one is the sound of thewater dropping from itsmuzzleAn IndianwhomIheardimitatethevoiceofthemooseandalsothatofthecaribouandthedeerusingamuchlongerhornthanJoes toldmethatthefirstcouldbeheard eight or tenmiles sometimes itwas a loud sort of bellowing soundclearer andmore sonorous than the lowing of cattle the caribous a sort ofsnortandthesmalldeerslikethatofalambAtlengthweturneduptheMoosehornwheretheIndiansatthecarryhadtoldusthattheykilledamoosethenightbeforeThisisaverymeanderingstreamonlya rodor two inwidthbut comparativelydeep coming inon the rightfitlyenoughnamedMoosehornwhetherfromitswindingsoritsinhabitantsItwasborderedhere and therebynarrowmeadowsbetween the streamandtheendlessforestaffordingfavorableplacesforthemoosetofeedandtocallthemoutonWeproceededhalfamileupthisas throughanarrowwindingcanalwherethetalldarkspruceandfirsandarbor-vitaeligtoweredonbothsidesinthemoonlightformingaperpendicularforest-edgeofgreatheightlikethespiresofaVeniceintheforestIntwoplacesstoodasmallstackofhayonthebankreadyforthelumberersuseinthewinterlookingstrangeenoughthereWethoughtofthedaywhenthismightbeabrookwindingthroughsmooth-shavenmeadowsonsomegentlemansgroundsandseenbymoonlight thenexceptingtheforestthatnowhemsitinhowlittlechangeditwouldappearAgain and again Joe called the moose placing the canoe close by somefavorable point ofmeadow for them to comeout on but listened in vain tohearonecomerushingthroughthewoodsandconcludedthattheyhadbeenhuntedtoomuchthereaboutsWesawmanytimeswhattoourimaginationslookedlikeagiganticmoosewithhishornspeeringfromouttheforestedgebutwe saw the forest only and not its inhabitants that night So at lastweturnedaboutTherewasnowa little fogon thewater though itwas a fineclear night above Therewere very few sounds to break the stillness of theforestSeveraltimesweheardthehootingofagreathornedowlasathomeand toldJoe thathewouldcallout themoose forhim forhemadeasoundconsiderably like thehorn but Joe answered that themoosehadheard thatsoundathousandtimesandknewbetterandoftenerstillwewerestartledbythe plunge of a musquash Once when Joe had called again and we werelistening for moose we heard come faintly echoing or creeping from farthroughthemoss-cladaislesadulldryrushingsoundwithasolidcoretoityetasifhalfsmotheredunderthegraspoftheluxuriantandfungus-likeforestlike the shutting of a door in some distant entry of the damp and shaggywildernessIfwehadnotbeentherenomortalhadhearditWhenweaskedJoe in awhisperwhat it was he answered Tree fall There is somethingsingularly grand and impressive in the sound of a tree falling in a perfectlycalmnightlikethisasiftheagencieswhichoverthrowitdidnotneedtobe

excitedbutworkedwithasubtledeliberateandconsciousforcelikeaboa-constrictorandmoreeffectivelythenthaneveninawindydayIfthereisanysuchdifferenceperhapsitisbecausetreeswiththedewsofthenightonthemareheavierthanbydayHavingreachedthecampabouttenoclockwekindledourfireandwenttobed Each of us had a blanket in which he lay on the fir twigs with hisextremitiestowardthefirebutnothingoverhisheadItwasworththewhiletoliedowninacountrywhereyoucouldaffordsuchgreatfiresthatwasonewholesideandthebrightsideofourworldWehadfirstrolledupalargelogsomeeighteeninchesthroughandtenfeetlongforabacklogtolastallnightandthenpiledonthetrees to theheightof threeorfourfeetnomatterhowgreen or damp In factwe burned asmuchwood that night aswouldwitheconomy and an air-tight stove last a poor family in one of our cities allwinter Itwasveryagreeableaswellas independent thus lying in theopenair and the fire kept our uncovered extremities warm enough The Jesuitmissionaries used to say that in their journeyswith the Indians inCanadatheylayonabedwhichhadneverbeenshakenupsincethecreationunlessbyearthquakes It is surprising with what impunity and comfort one who hasalwayslaininawarmbedinacloseapartmentandstudiouslyavoideddraftsofaircanliedownonthegroundwithoutashelterrollhimselfinablanketandsleepbeforeafire inafrostyautumnnight justafteralongrain-stormandevencomesoontoenjoyandvaluethefreshairI lay awake awhilewatching the ascent of the sparks through the firs andsometimes their descent in half-extinguished cinders on my blanket Theywereasinterestingasfireworksgoingupinendlesssuccessivecrowdseachafter an explosion in an eager serpentine course some to five or six rodsabove the tree-tops before theywent outWedonot suspect howmuchourchimneyshaveconcealedandnowair-tightstoveshavecometoconcealalltherestInthecourseofthenightIgotuponceortwiceandputfreshlogsonthefiremakingmycompanionscurluptheirlegsWhen we awoke in the morning (Saturday September 17) there wasconsiderablefrostwhiteningtheleavesWeheardthesoundofthechickadeeandafewfaintlylispingbirdsandalsoofducksinthewaterabouttheislandItookabotanicalaccountofstockofourdomainsbeforethedewwasoffandfound that the ground-hemlock or American yew was the prevailingundershrubWebreakfastedonteahard-breadandducksBeforethefoghadfairlyclearedawaywepaddleddownthestreamagainandwere soon past the mouth of the Moosehorn These twenty miles of thePenobscot between Moosehead and Chesuncook lakes are comparativelysmooth and a great part deadwater but from time to time it is shallowandrapid with rocks or gravel beds where you can wade across There is no

expanseofwaterandnobreakintheforestandthemeadowisamereedginghereandthereTherearenohillsneartherivernorwithinsightexceptoneortwodistantmountainsseeninafewplacesThebanksarefromsixtotenfeethighbutonceortwicerisegentlytohighergroundInmanyplacestheforeston the bank was but a thin strip letting the light through from some alderswamp ormeadow behind The conspicuous berry-bearing bushes and treesalong the shore were the red osier with its whitish fruit hobble-bushmountain-ash tree-cranberry choke-cherry now ripe alternate cornel andnakedviburnumFollowingJoesexampleIatethefruitofthelastandalsoof the hobble-bush but found them rather insipid and seedy I looked verynarrowly at the vegetation as we glided along close to the shore andfrequentlymade Joe turn aside forme to pluck a plant that Imight see bycomparisonwhatwasprimitiveaboutmynativeriverHorehoundhorse-mintand the sensitive ferngrewclose to the edge under thewillows and aldersandwool-grassontheislandsasalongtheAssabetRiverinConcordItwastoolateforflowersexceptafewastersgoldenrodsetcInseveralplaceswenoticedtheslightframeofacampsuchaswehadpreparedtosetupamidtheforestby theriversidewheresomelumberersorhuntershadpassedanightandsometimesstepscutinthemuddyorclayeybankinfrontofitWestopped to fish for troutat themouthofa small streamcalledRagmuffwhich came in from thewest about twomiles below theMoosehornHerewere the ruins of an old lumbering-camp and a small space which hadformerlybeenclearedandburnedoverwasnowdenselyovergrownwiththered cherry and raspberriesWhilewewere trying for trout Joe Indian-likewanderedoffuptheRagmuffonhisownerrandsandwhenwewerereadytostartwas farbeyondcallSowewerecompelled tomakea fireandgetourdinner here not to lose time Some dark reddish birdswith grayer females(perhaps purple finches) and myrtle-birds in their summer dress hoppedwithinsixoreightfeetofusandoursmokePerhapstheysmelledthefryingporkThelatterbirdorbothmadethelispingnoteswhichIhadheardintheforestTheysuggestedthatthefewsmallbirdsfoundinthewildernessareonmorefamiliartermswiththelumbermanandhunterthanthoseoftheorchardand clearing with the farmer I have since found the Canada jay andpartridgesboththeblackandthecommonequallytamethereasiftheyhadnotyetlearnedtomistrustmanentirelyThechickadeewhichisathomealikeintheprimitivewoodsandinourwood-lotsstillretainsitsconfidenceinthetownstoaremarkabledegreeJoeatlengthreturnedafteranhourandahalfandsaidthathehadbeentwomilesupthestreamexploringandhadseenamoosebutnothavingthegunhedidnotgethimWemadenocomplaintbutconcludedtolookoutforJoethenext timeHowever thismayhavebeen ameremistake forwehadnoreason to complain of him afterwardsAswe continued down the stream I

wassurprisedtohearhimwhistlingOSusannaandseveralothersuchairswhile his paddle urged us along Once he said Yes sir-ee His commonwordwasSartainHepaddledasusualononesideonlygivingthebirchanimpulsebyusingthesideasafulcrumIaskedhimhowtheribswerefastenedto the side railsHeanswered Idontknow InevernoticedTalkingwithhimaboutsubsistingwhollyonwhatthewoodsyieldedmdashgamefishberriesetcmdashIsuggestedthathisancestorsdidsobutheansweredthathehadbeenbroughtupinsuchawaythathecouldnotdoitYessaidhethatsthewaytheygotalivinglikewildfellowswildasbearsByGeorgeIshantgointothewoodswithout provisionmdashhard-bread pork etcHe had brought on abarrelofhard-breadandstoreditatthecarryforhishuntingHoweverthoughhewasaGovernorssonhehadnotlearnedtoreadAtoneplacebelowthisontheeastsidewherethebankwashigheranddrierthan usual rising gently from the shore to a slight elevation some one hadfelled the trees over twenty or thirty acres and left themdrying in order toburnThiswastheonlypreparationforahousebetweentheMooseheadCarryandChesuncookbut therewasnohutnor inhabitants thereyetThepioneerthusselectsasiteforhishousewhichwillperhapsprovethegermofatownMyeyeswereallthewhileonthetreesdistinguishingbetweentheblackandwhite spruce and the fir You paddle along in a narrow canal through anendless forest and thevision I have inmyminds eye still is of the smalldarkandsharptopsof tall firandsprucetreesandpagoda-likearbor-vitaeligscrowdedtogetheroneachsidewithvarioushardwoodsintermixedSomeofthe arbor-vitaeligs were at least sixty feet high The hard woods occasionallyoccurring exclusivelywere lesswild tomy eye I fancied them ornamentalgrounds with farmhouses in the rear The canoe and yellow birch beechmaple and elm are Saxon and Norman but the spruce and fir and pinesgenerally are Indian The soft engravingswhich adorn the annuals give noideaofastreaminsuchawildernessasthisTheroughsketchesinJacksonsReportsontheGeologyofMaineanswermuchbetterAtoneplacewesawasmallgroveofslendersaplingwhitepinestheonlycollectionofpinesthatIsaw on this voyage Here and there however was a full-grown tall andslender but defective onewhat lumbermen call a konchus treewhich theyascertainwiththeiraxesorbytheknotsIdidnotlearnwhetherthiswordwasIndianorEnglishItremindedmeoftheGreekκόγχηaconchorshellandIamusedmyselfwith fancying that itmightsignify thedeadsoundwhich thetreesyieldwhenstruckAlltherestofthepineshadbeendrivenoffHowfarmengoforthematerialoftheirhousesTheinhabitantsofthemostcivilizedcitiesinallagessendintofarprimitiveforestsbeyondtheboundsoftheircivilizationwherethemooseandbearandsavagedwellfortheirpineboardsforordinaryuseAndontheotherhandthesavagesoonreceivesfrom

citiesironarrow-pointshatchetsandgunstopointhissavagenesswithThe solidandwell-defined fir-tops like sharpand regular spearheadsblackagainst the sky gave a peculiar dark and sombre look to the forest Thespruce-tops have a similar butmore ragged outline their shafts alsomerelyfeatheredbelowThefirsweresomewhatoftenerregularanddensepyramidsI was struck by this universal spiring upward of the forest evergreens Thetendencyis toslenderspiringtopswhiletheyarenarrowerbelowNotonlythe spruce and fir but even the arbor-vitaelig and white pine unlike the softspreading second-growth of which I saw none all spire upwards lifting adensespearheadofconestothelightandairatanyratewhiletheirbranchesstraggleafterastheymayasIndianslifttheballovertheheadsofthecrowdin their desperate game In this they resemble grasses as also palmssomewhatThehemlockiscommonlyatent-likepyramidfromthegroundtoitssummitAfter passing through some long rips and by a large islandwe reached aninterestingpartoftherivercalledthePineStreamDeadwateraboutsixmilesbelow Ragmuff where the river expanded to thirty rods in width and hadmany islands in it with elms and canoe-birches now yellowing along theshoreandwegotourfirstsightofKtaadnHereabouttwooclockweturnedupasmallbranchthreeorfourrodswidewhichcomes inon the right from the south calledPineStream to look formoose signsWe had gone but a few rods beforewe saw very recent signsalongthewatersedge themudliftedupby their feetbeingquitefreshandJoedeclaredthattheyhadgonealongtherebutashorttimebeforeWesoonreachedasmallmeadowontheeastsideatanangleinthestreamwhichwasfor themostpartdenselycoveredwithaldersAswewereadvancingalongthe edge of this rathermore quietly than usual perhaps on account of thefreshnessofthesignsmdashthedesignbeingtocampupthisstreamifitpromisedwellmdashIheardaslightcracklingoftwigsdeepinthealdersandturnedJoesattention to itwhereuponhebegan topush the canoeback rapidly andwehad receded thus half a dozen rods when we suddenly spied two moosestanding just on the edge of the open part of the meadow which we hadpassednotmorethansixorsevenrodsdistantlookingroundthealdersatusTheymademethinkofgreatfrightenedrabbitswiththeirlongearsandhalf-inquisitive half-frightened looks the true denizens of the forest (I saw atonce) fillingavacuumwhichnow first Idiscoveredhadnotbeen filled formemdashmoose-menwood-eaters theword is said tomeanmdashclad in a sort ofVermontgrayorhomespunOurNimrodowingtotheretrogrademovementwasnowthefarthestfromthegamebutbeingwarnedofitsneighborhoodhehastilystoodupandwhileweduckedfiredoverourheadsonebarrelattheforemostwhichalonehesawthoughhedidnotknowwhatkindofcreatureit

waswhereuponthisonedashedacrossthemeadowandupahighbankonthenortheastsorapidlyastoleavebutanindistinctimpressionofitsoutlinesonmymindAt thesame instant theotherayoungonebutas tallasahorseleaped out into the stream in full sight and there stood cowering for amomentorratheritsdisproportionatelownessbehindgaveitthatappearanceandutteringtwoorthreetrumpetingsqueaksIhaveanindistinctrecollectionofseeingtheoldonepauseaninstantonthetopofthebankinthewoodslooktowarditsshiveringyoungandthendashawayagainThesecondbarrelwasleveledat thecalfandwhenweexpected tosee itdrop in thewaterafteralittlehesitationittoogotoutofthewateranddashedupthehillthoughinasomewhatdifferentdirectionAllthiswastheworkofafewsecondsandourhunterhavingneverseenamoosebeforedidnotknowbut theyweredeerfor they stoodpartly in thewaternorwhetherhehad firedat the sameonetwiceornotFromthestyleinwhichtheywentoffandthefactthathewasnotusedtostandingupandfiringfromacanoeIjudgedthatweshouldnotseeanythingmoreofthemTheIndiansaidthattheywereacowandhercalfmdasha yearling or perhaps two years old for they accompany their dams solongbutformypartIhadnotnoticedmuchdifferenceintheirsizeItwasbuttwoorthreerodsacrossthemeadowtothefootofthebankwhichlikealltheworldthereaboutswasdenselywoodedbutIwassurprisedtonoticethatassoonas themoosehadpassedbehindtheveilof thewoods therewasnosoundof footsteps tobeheard from the soft dampmosswhich carpets thatforest and long beforewe landed perfect silence reigned Joe said If youwoundemmoosemesuregetemWealllandedatonceMycompanionreloadedtheIndianfastenedhisbirchthrewoffhishatadjustedhiswaistbandseized thehatchetandsetoutHetoldmeafterwardcasuallythatbeforewelandedhehadseenadropofbloodonthebankwhenitwastwoor threerodsoffHeproceededrapidlyupthebank and through thewoodswith a peculiar elastic noiseless and stealthytreadlookingtorightandleftonthegroundandsteppinginthefainttracksof thewoundedmoosenowand thenpointing insilence toasingledropofblood on the handsome shining leaves of the Clintonia borealis which onevery side covered thegroundor toadry fern stem freshlybroken all thewhile chewing some leaf or else the spruce gum I followed watching hismotionsmorethanthetrailofthemooseAfterfollowingthetrailaboutfortyrodsinaprettydirectcoursesteppingoverfallentreesandwindingbetweenstanding ones he at length lost it for there weremany other moose-tracksthereandreturningoncemoretothelastblood-staintraceditalittlewayandlostitagainandtoosoonIthoughtforagoodhuntergaveitupentirelyHetraced a few steps also the tracks of the calf but seeing no blood soonrelinquishedthesearchIobservedwhilehewastrackingthemooseacertainreticenceormoderation

in him He did not communicate several observations of interest which hemade as a whitemanwould have done though theymay have leaked outafterwardAtanothertimewhenweheardaslightcracklingoftwigsandhelanded to reconnoitrehe stepped lightlyandgracefully stealing through thebusheswiththeleastpossiblenoiseinawayinwhichnowhitemandoesmdashasitwerefindingaplaceforhisfooteachtimeAbout half an hour after seeing themoosewe pursued our voyage upPineStreamandsooncomingtoapartwhichwasveryshoalandalsorapidwetookoutthebaggageandproceededtocarryitroundwhileJoegotupwiththecanoealoneWewerejustcompletingourportageandIwasabsorbedintheplantsadmiringtheleavesoftheAstermacrophyllustenincheswideandpluckingtheseedsofthegreatround-leavedorchiswhenJoeexclaimedfromthe stream that he had killed amoose He had found the cowmoose lyingdeadbutquitewarminthemiddleofthestreamwhichwassoshallowthatitrestedonthebottomwithhardlyathirdofitsbodyabovewaterItwasaboutan hour after itwas shot and itwas swollenwithwater It had run about ahundredrodsandsoughtthestreamagaincuttingoffaslightbendNodoubtabetterhunterwouldhavetrackedittothisspotatonceIwassurprisedatitsgreat size horse-like but Joe said it was not a large cow moose Mycompanion went in search of the calf again I took hold of the ears of themoosewhileJoepushedhiscanoedown-streamtowardafavorableshoreandsowemadeoutthoughwithsomedifficultyitslongnosefrequentlystickinginthebottomtodragitintostillshallowerwaterItwasabrownish-blackorperhaps a dark iron-gray on the back and sides but lighter beneath and infront I took the cord which served for the canoes painter and with Joesassistance measured it carefully the greatest distances first making a knoteachtimeThepainterbeingwantedIreducedthesemeasuresthatnightwithequal care to lengths and fractions of my umbrella beginning with thesmallestmeasuresanduntyingtheknotsasIproceededandwhenwearrivedatChesuncookthenextdayfindingatwo-footrulethereIreducedthelasttofeet and inches andmoreover Imademyself a two-foot ruleof a thin andnarrowstripofblackashwhichwouldfoldupconvenientlytosixinchesAllthispains I tookbecause Ididnotwish tobeobliged tosaymerely that themoose was very large Of the various dimensions which I obtained I willmention only two The distance from the tips of the hoofs of the fore feetstretchedouttothetopofthebackbetweentheshoulderswassevenfeetandfive inches Icanhardlybelievemyownmeasure for this isabout two feetgreater than the height of a tall horse (Indeed I am now satisfied that thismeasurementwasincorrectbuttheothermeasuresgivenhereIcanwarranttobe correct having proved them in amore recent visit to thosewoods) Theextreme lengthwas eight feet and two inchesAnother cowmoosewhich Ihavesincemeasuredinthosewoodswithatapewasjustsixfeetfromthetip

ofthehooftotheshouldersandeightfeetlongasshelayWhenafterwardIaskedanIndianatthecarryhowmuchtallerthemalewasheansweredEighteeninchesandmademeobservetheheightofacross-stakeoverthefiremorethanfourfeetfromthegroundtogivemesomeideaofthedepthofhischestAnotherIndianatOldtowntoldmethattheywereninefeethightothetopofthebackandthatonewhichhetriedweighedeighthundredpoundsThelengthofthespinalprojectionsbetweentheshouldersisverygreatAwhitehunterwhowas thebestauthorityamonghunters that Icould have told me that the male was not eighteen inches taller than thefemaleyetheagreedthathewassometimesninefeethighto the topof thebackandweighedathousandpoundsOnlythemalehashornsandtheyrisetwo feet or more above the shouldersmdashspreading three or four andsometimes six feetmdashwhichwouldmake him in all sometimes eleven feethighAccordingtothiscalculationthemooseisastallthoughitmaynotbeas large as thegreat Irish elkMegacerosHibernicus of a formerperiod ofwhichMantellsaysthatitveryfarexceededinmagnitudeanylivingspeciesthe skeletonbeing upwardof ten feethigh from theground to thehighestpoint of the antlers Joe said that though themoose shed thewhole hornannuallyeachnewhornhasanadditionalprongbutIhavenoticedthattheysometimeshavemoreprongsononesidethanontheotherIwasstruckwiththedelicacyandtendernessofthehoofswhichdivideveryfarupandtheonehalfcouldbepressedverymuchbehind theother thusprobablymaking theanimalsurer-footedontheunevengroundandslipperymoss-coveredlogsoftheprimitive forestTheywereveryunlike the stiff andbattered feetofourhorsesandoxenThebarehornypartoftheforefootwasjustsixincheslongandthetwoportionscouldbeseparatedfourinchesattheextremitiesThe moose is singularly grotesque and awkward to look atWhy should itstandsohighattheshouldersWhyhavesolongaheadWhyhavenotailtospeakofforinmyexaminationIoverlookeditentirelyNaturalistssayit isaninchandahalflongItremindedmeatonceofthecamelopardhighbeforeand lowbehindmdashandnowonder for like it it is fitted tobrowseon treesThe upper lip projected two inches beyond the lower for this purpose ThiswasthekindofmanthatwasathomethereforasnearasIcanlearnthathasnever been the residence but rather the hunting-ground of the Indian ThemoosewillperhapsonedaybecomeextinctbuthownaturallythenwhenitexistsonlyasafossilrelicandunseenasthatmaythepoetorsculptorinventafabulousanimalwithsimilarbranchingandleafyhornsmdashasortoffucusorlicheninbonemdashtobetheinhabitantofsuchaforestasthisHerejustattheheadofthemurmuringrapidsJoenowproceededtoskinthemoosewithapocket-knifewhileIlookedonandatragicalbusinessitwasmdashto see that still warm and palpitating body pierced with a knife to see the

warm milk stream from the rent udder and the ghastly naked red carcassappearing fromwithin its seemly robewhichwasmade tohide itTheballhadpassed through the shoulder-bladediagonallyand lodgedunder the skinon the opposite side andwas partially flattenedMy companion keeps it toshowtohisgrandchildrenHehastheshanksofanothermoosewhichhehassince shot skinnedand stuffed ready tobemade intobootsbyputting in athickleathersoleJoesaidifamoosestoodfrontingyouyoumustnotfirebutadvancetowardhimforhewillturnslowlyandgiveyouafairshotInthebedofthisnarrowwildandrockystreambetweentwoloftywallsofspruceandfirsamerecleftintheforestwhichthestreamhadmadethisworkwentonAtlengthJoehadstrippedoffthehideanddraggedittrailingtotheshoredeclaringthatitweighedahundredpoundsthoughprobablyfiftywouldhavebeennearerthetruthHecutoffalargemassofthemeattocarryalongandanothertogetherwiththetongueandnoseheputwiththehideontheshoretoliethereallnightortillwereturnedIwassurprisedthathethoughtofleavingthismeatthusexposedbythesideofthecarcassasthesimplestcoursenotfearing that any creaturewould touch it but nothing didThis could hardlyhave happened on the bank of one of our rivers in the eastern part ofMassachusettsbutIsuspectthatfewersmallwildanimalsareprowlingtherethanwithusTwicehoweverinthisexcursionIhadaglimpseofaspeciesoflargemouseThis streamwassowithdrawnand themoose-trackswereso fresh thatmycompanionsstillbentonhuntingconcludedtogofartherupitandcampandthenhuntupordownatnightHalfamileabovethisataplacewhereIsawtheAsterpuniceusandthebeakedhazelaswepaddledalongJoehearingaslightrustlingamidthealdersandseeingsomethingblackabouttworodsoffjumped up andwhispered Bear but before the hunter had discharged hispiece he corrected himself to BeavermdashHedgehog The bullet killed alarge hedgehog more than two feet and eight inches long The quills wererayedoutandflattenedonthehinderpartofitsbackevenasifithadlainonthat part but were erect and long between this and the tail Their pointscloselyexaminedwereseen tobefinelybeardedorbarbedandshapedlikeanawlthatisalittleconcavetogivethebarbseffectAfteraboutamileofstill water we prepared our camp on the right side just at the foot of aconsiderablefallLittlechoppingwasdonethatnightforfearofscaringthemooseWehadmoosemeat fried for supper It tasted like tenderbeefwithperhapsmoreflavormdashsometimeslikevealAfter supper the moon having risen we proceeded to hunt a mile up thisstreamfirstcarryingaboutthefallsWemadeapicturesquesightwendingsinglefilealongtheshoreclimbingoverrocksandlogsJoewhobroughtupthereartwirlinghiscanoeinhishandsasifitwereafeatherinplaceswhereitwas difficult to get alongwithout a burdenWe launched the canoe again

fromtheledgeoverwhichthestreamfellbutafterhalfamileofstillwatersuitable forhunting itbecamerapidagainandwewerecompelled tomakeourwayalong the shorewhile Joeendeavored togetup in thebirchalonethoughitwasstillverydifficultforhimtopickhiswayamidtherocksinthenightWeon theshorefound theworstofwalkingaperfectchaosof fallenand drifted trees and of bushes projecting far over thewater and now andthen wemade our way across the mouth of a small tributary on a kind ofnetworkof aldersSowewent tumblingon in thedark beingon the shadysideeffectuallyscaringallthemooseandbearsthatmightbethereaboutsAtlengthwe came to a standstill and Joewent forward to reconnoitre but hereportedthat itwasstillacontinuousrapidasfarashewentorhalfamilewithnoprospectofimprovementasifitwerecomingdownfromamountainSoweturnedabouthuntingbacktothecampthroughthestillwaterItwasasplendid moonlight night and I getting sleepy as it grew latemdashfor I hadnothing to domdashfound it difficult to realize where I was This stream wasmuchmore unfrequented than themain one lumbering operations being nolongercarriedonin thisquarter Itwasonly threeorfourrodswidebut thefirsandsprucethroughwhichittrickledseemedyettallerbycontrastBeinginthisdreamystatewhichthemoonlightenhancedIdidnotclearlydiscernthe shore but seemedmost of the time to be floating through ornamentalgroundsmdashforIassociatedthefir-topswithsuchscenesmdashveryhighupsomeBroadway and beneath or between their tops I thought I saw an endlesssuccession of porticoes and columns cornices and faccedilades verandas andchurches I did notmerely fancy this but inmy drowsy state suchwas theillusion I fairly lost myself in sleep several times still dreaming of thatarchitectureandthenobilitythatdweltbehindandmightissuefromitbutallatonceIwouldbearousedandbroughtbacktoasenseofmyactualpositionby the sound of Joes birch horn in themidst of all this silence calling themooseughughoo-oo-oo-oo-oo-oo and Iprepared tohear a furiousmoosecomerushingandcrashingthroughtheforestandseehimburstoutontothelittlestripofmeadowbyoursideButonmoreaccountsthanoneIhadhadenoughofmoose-huntingIhadnotcometothewoodsforthispurposenorhadIforeseenit thoughIhadbeenwillingtolearnhowtheIndianmanœuvredbutonemoosekilledwasasgoodif not as bad as a dozen The afternoons tragedy andmy share in it as itaffected the innocence destroyed the pleasure ofmy adventure It is true IcameasnearasispossibletocometobeingahunterandmissitmyselfandasitisIthinkthatIcouldspendayearinthewoodsfishingandhuntingjustenoughtosustainmyselfwithsatisfactionThiswouldbenexttolivinglikeaphilosopheronthefruitsoftheearthwhichyouhadraisedwhichalsoattractsmeButthishuntingofthemoosemerelyforthesatisfactionofkillinghimmdashnotevenforthesakeofhishidemdashwithoutmakinganyextraordinaryexertion

or running any risk yourself is too much like going out by night to somewood-sidepastureandshootingyourneighborshorsesTheseareGodsownhorsespoor timidcreatures thatwill runfastenoughassoonas theysmellyouthoughtheyareninefeethighJoetoldusofsomehunterswhoayearortwo before had shot down several oxen by night somewhere in theMainewoodsmistakingthemformooseAndsomightanyofthehuntersandwhatisthedifferenceinthesportbutthenameIntheformercasehavingkilledoneofGodsandyourownoxenyoustripoff itshidemdashbecause that is thecommon trophy and moreover you have heard that it may be sold formoccasinsmdashcutasteakfromitshaunchesandleavethehugecarcasstosmelltoheavenforyouItisnobetteratleastthantoassistataslaughter-houseThis afternoons experience suggested to me how base or coarse are themotiveswhich commonly carrymen into thewilderness The explorers andlumberersgenerallyareallhirelingspaidsomuchadayfortheirlaborandassuch they have no more love for wild nature than wood-sawyers have forforests Other whitemen and Indians who come here are for themost parthunters whose object is to slay as manymoose and other wild animals aspossibleButpraycouldnotonespendsomeweeksoryearsinthesolitudeofthis vast wilderness with other employments than thesemdashemploymentsperfectlysweetandinnocentandennoblingForonethatcomeswithapencilto sketch or sing a thousand comewith an axe or rifleWhat a coarse andimperfectuseIndiansandhuntersmakeofnatureNowonderthattheirraceisso soonexterminated I alreadyand forweeksafterward feltmynature thecoarser for thispartofmywoodlandexperienceandwas reminded thatourlifeshouldbelivedastenderlyanddaintilyasonewouldpluckaflowerWiththesethoughtswhenwereachedourcamping-groundIdecidedtoleavemycompanionstocontinuemoose-huntingdownthestreamwhileIpreparedthecampthoughtheyrequestedmenottochopmuchnormakealargefireforfearIshouldscaretheirgameInthemidstofthedampfirwoodhighonthemossybankaboutnineoclockofthisbrightmoonlightnightIkindledafirewhen theyweregone and sittingon the fir twigswithin soundof thefallsexaminedbyitslightthebotanicalspecimenswhichIhadcollectedthatafternoon and wrote down some of the reflections which I have hereexpanded or I walked along the shore and gazed up the streamwhere thewholespaceabovethefallswasfilledwithmellowlightAsIsatbeforethefireonmyfir-twigseatwithoutwallsaboveoraroundmeIrememberedhowfar on every hand that wilderness stretched before you came to cleared orcultivatedfieldsandwonderedifanybearormoosewaswatchingthelightofmyfire forNature lookedsternlyuponmeonaccountof themurderof themooseStrange that so few ever come to thewoods to see how the pine lives and

grows and spires lifting its evergreen arms to the lightmdashto see its perfectsuccessbutmostarecontenttobeholditintheshapeofmanybroadboardsbrought tomarket and deem that its true success But the pine is nomorelumberthanmanisandtobemadeintoboardsandhousesisnomoreitstrueandhighestusethanthetruestuseofamanistobecutdownandmadeintomanureThereisahigherlawaffectingourrelationtopinesaswellastomenApinecutdownadeadpineisnomoreapinethanadeadhumancarcassisamanCanhewhohasdiscoveredonlysomeof thevaluesofwhaleboneandwhaleoilbesaid tohavediscovered the trueuseof thewhaleCanhewhoslaystheelephantforhisivorybesaidtohaveseentheelephantThesearepettyandaccidentalusesjustasifastrongerraceweretokillusinordertomakebuttonsandflageoletsofourbonesforeverythingmayservealoweraswellasahigheruseEverycreatureisbetteralivethandeadmenandmooseand pine trees and hewhounderstands it arightwill rather preserve its lifethandestroyitIs it the lumberman then who is the friend and lover of the pine standsnearesttoitandunderstandsitsnaturebestIsitthetannerwhohasbarkeditorhewhohasboxeditforturpentinewhomposteritywillfabletohavebeenchangedintoapineatlastNonoitisthepoetheitiswhomakesthetruestuseofthepinewhodoesnotfondleitwithanaxenortickleitwithasawnorstrokeitwithaplanewhoknowswhetheritsheartisfalsewithoutcuttingintoitwhohasnotbought thestumpageof the townshiponwhich itstandsAllthepines shudder andheavea sighwhen thatman stepson the forest floorNoitisthepoetwholovesthemashisownshadowintheairandletsthemstand I have been into the lumber-yard and the carpenters shop and thetannery and the lampblack factory and the turpentine clearing butwhen atlengthIsawthetopsofthepineswavingandreflectingthelightatadistancehigh over all the rest of the forest I realized that the former were not thehighestuseofthepineItisnottheirbonesorhideortallowthatIlovemostIt is the living spirit of the tree not its spirit of turpentine with which IsympathizeandwhichhealsmycutsItisasimmortalasIamandperchancewillgotoashighaheaventheretotowerabovemestillErelongthehuntersreturnednothavingseenamoosebutinconsequenceofmysuggestionsbringingaquarterofthedeadonewhichwithourselvesmadequitealoadforthecanoeAfterbreakfastingonmoosemeatwereturneddownPineStreamonourwaytoChesuncookLakewhichwasaboutfivemilesdistantWecouldseetheredcarcassof themoose lying inPineStreamwhennearlyhalf amileoff Justbelowthemouthofthisstreamwerethemostconsiderablerapidsbetweenthetwo lakes called Pine Stream Falls where were large flat rocks washedsmooth and at this time you could easilywade across above them Joe ran

down alone while we walked over the portage my companion collectingsprucegumforhisfriendsathomeandIlookingforflowersNearthelakewhich we were approaching with as much expectation as if it had been auniversitymdashfor it is not often that the stream of our life opens into suchexpansionsmdashwereislandsandalowandmeadowyshorewithscatteredtreesbircheswhiteandyellowslantedover thewaterandmaplesmdashmanyof thewhitebircheskilledapparentlybyinundationsTherewasconsiderablenativegrassandevenafewcattlemdashwhosemovementsweheardthoughwedidnotseethemmistakingthematfirstformoosemdashwerepasturedthereOnenteringthelakewherethestreamrunssoutheasterlyandforsometimebeforewehadaviewof themountains aboutKtaadn (Katahdinauquohonesays theyarecalled) likea clusterofblue fungiof rankgrowth apparentlytwenty-five or thirty miles distant in a southeast direction their summitsconcealedbyclouds Joecalled someof them theSowadnehunkMountainsThis is the name of a stream there which another Indian told us meantrunning betweenmountains Though some lower summits were afterwarduncoveredwe got nomore complete viewofKtaadnwhilewewere in thewoodsTheclearingtowhichwewereboundwasontherightofthemouthoftheriverandwasreachedbygoingrounda lowpointwhere thewaterwasshallow to a great distance from the shore Chesuncook Lake extendsnorthwest and southeast and is called eighteen miles long and three widewithoutan islandWehadentered thenorthwestcornerof itandwhennearthe shore could see only partway down it The principalmountains visiblefromthelandherewerethosealreadymentionedbetweensoutheastandeastandafewsummitsalittlewestofnorthbutgenerallythenorthandnorthwesthorizonabouttheStJohnandtheBritishboundarywascomparativelylevelAnsellSmithstheoldestandprincipalclearingaboutthislakeappearedtobequiteaharborforbatteauxandcanoessevenoreightoftheformerwerelyingaboutandtherewasasmallscowforhayandacapstanonaplatformnowhighanddryreadytobefloatedandanchoredtotowraftswithItwasaveryprimitivekindofharborwhereboatsweredrawnupamidthestumpsmdashsuchaonemethoughtastheArgomighthavebeenlaunchedinTherewerefiveotherhutswithsmallclearingsontheoppositesideofthelakeallatthisendandvisiblefromthispointOneoftheSmithstoldmethatitwassofarclearedthat they came here to live and built the present house four years beforethoughthefamilyhadbeenherebutafewmonthsIwasinterestedtoseehowapioneerlivedonthissideofthecountryHislifeisinsomerespectsmoreadventurousthanthatofhisbrotherintheWestforhe contends with winter as well as the wilderness and there is a greaterintervalof timeat leastbetweenhimand the armywhich is to followHereimmigrationisatidewhichmayebbwhenithassweptawaythepinesthereit

is not a tide but an inundation and roads and other improvements comesteadilyrushingafterAsweapproachedtheloghouseadozenrodsfromthelakeandconsiderablyelevated above it the projecting ends of the logs lapping over each otherirregularlyseveralfeetatthecornersgaveitaveryrichandpicturesquelookfarremovedfromthemeannessofweather-boardsItwasaveryspaciouslowbuildingabouteightyfeetlongwithmanylargeapartmentsThewallswerewellclayedbetweenthelogswhichwerelargeandroundexceptontheupperand under sides and as visible inside as out successive bulging cheeksgradually lessening upwards and tuned to each other with the axe likePandeanpipesProbablythemusicalforestgodshadnotyetcastthemasidethey never do till they are split or the bark is gone It was a style ofarchitecturenotdescribedbyVitruviusIsuspectthoughpossiblyhintedatinthebiographyofOrpheusnoneofyourfrilledorflutedcolumnswhichhavecutsuchafalseswellandsupportnothingbutagableendandtheirbuilderspretensionsmdashthat iswith themultitude andas for ornamentationoneofthosewordswith a dead tailwhich architects very properly use to describetheirflourishestherewerethelichensandmossesandfringesofbarkwhichnobody troubledhimselfaboutWecertainly leave thehandsomestpaintandclapboards behind in the woods when we strip off the bark and poisonourselveswithwhite-leadinthetownsWegetbuthalfthespoilsoftheforestFor beauty give me trees with the fur on This house was designed andconstructed with the freedom of stroke of a foresters axe without othercompass and square thanNature usesWherever the logswere cut off by awindowordoorthatiswerenotkeptinplacebyalternateoverlappingtheywereheldoneuponanotherbyverylargepinsdrivenindiagonallyoneachsidewherebranchesmighthavebeenandthencutoffsocloseupanddownasnottoprojectbeyondthebulgeofthelogasifthelogsclaspedeachotherintheirarmsTheselogswerepostsstudsboardsclapboardslathsplasterandnailsallinoneWherethecitizenusesameresliverorboardthepioneerusesthewholetrunkofatreeThehousehadlargestonechimneysandwasroofedwithspruce-barkThewindowswereimportedallbutthecasingsOneendwasaregularloggerscampfortheboarderswiththeusualfirfloorandlogbenchesThusthishousewasbutaslightdeparturefromthehollowtreewhichthebearstillinhabitsmdashbeingahollowmadewithtreespiledupwithacoatingofbarklikeitsoriginalThe cellarwas a separate building like an ice-house and it answered for arefrigerator at this seasonourmoosemeatbeingkept there Itwasapotatohole with a permanent roof Each structure and institution here was soprimitive that you could at once refer it to its source but our buildingscommonly suggest neither their origin nor their purposeTherewas a largeandwhatfarmerswouldcallhandsomebarnpartofwhoseboardshadbeen

sawedby awhip-saw and the saw-pitwith its great pile of dust remainedbeforethehouseThelongsplitshinglesonaportionofthebarnwerelaidafoottotheweathersuggestingwhatkindofweathertheyhavethereGrantsbarn at Caribou Lake was said to be still larger the biggest ox-nest in thewoodsfiftyfeetbyahundredThinkofamonsterbarninthatprimitiveforestliftingitsgraybackabovethetree-topsManmakesverymuchsuchanestforhisdomesticanimalsofwitheredgrassandfodderasthesquirrelsandmanyotherwildcreaturesdoforthemselvesTherewasalsoablacksmiths shopwhereplainlyagooddealofworkwasdoneTheoxenandhorsesusedinlumberingoperationswereshodandalltheiron-workofsledsetcwasrepairedormadehereIsawthemloadabatteauattheMooseheadCarrythenextTuesdaywithaboutthirteenhundredweightof bar iron for this shop This remindedme howprimitive and honorable atradewasVulcansIdonothearthattherewasanycarpenterortailoramongthegodsThesmithseemstohaveprecededtheseandeveryothermechanicatChesuncook as well as on Olympus and his family is the most widelydispersedwhetherhebechristenedJohnorAnsellSmith owned twomiles down the lake by half amile inwidthTherewereaboutonehundredacresclearedhereHecutseventytonsofEnglishhaythisyearon thisgroundand twentymoreonanotherclearingandheuses itallhimselfinlumberingoperationsThebarnwascrowdedwithpressedhayandamachinetopressitTherewasalargegardenfullofrootsmdashturnipsbeetscarrotspotatoesetcallofgreatsizeTheysaidthattheywereworthasmuchhereasinNewYorkIsuggestedsomecurrantsforsauceespeciallyastheyhadnoappletreessetoutandshowedhoweasilytheycouldbeobtainedThere was the usual long-handled axe of the primitive woods by the doorthreeandahalffeetlongmdashformynewblack-ashrulewasinconstantusemdashandalargeshaggydogwhosenosereportsaidwasfullofporcupinequillsI can testify that he looked very sober This is the usual fortune of pioneerdogsfortheyhavetofacethebruntofthebattlefortheirraceandactthepartofArnoldWinkelriedwithoutintendingitIfheshouldinviteoneofhistownfriendsupthiswaysuggestingmoosemeatandunlimitedfreedomthelattermight pertinently inquire What is that sticking in your nose When agenerationortwohaveusedupalltheenemiesdartstheirsuccessorsleadacomparativelyeasylifeWeowetoourfathersanalogousblessingsManyoldpeople receive pensions for no other reason it seems to me but as acompensationforhavinglivedalongtimeagoNodoubtourtowndogsstilltalkinasnufflingwayaboutthedaysthattrieddogsnosesHowtheygotacat up there I donotknow for they are as shy asmyaunt about entering acanoeIwonderedthatshedidnotrunupatreeonthewaybutperhapsshewasbewilderedbytheverycrowdofopportunities

TwentyorthirtylumberersYankeeandCanadianwerecomingandgoingmdashAleckamongtherestmdashandfromtimetotimeanIndiantouchedhereInthewinter there are sometimes a hundred men lodged here at once The mostinterestingpieceofnewsthatcirculatedamongthemappearedtobethatfourhorsesbelongingtoSmithworthsevenhundreddollarshadpassedbyfartherintothewoodsaweekbeforeThewhite pine treewas at the bottomor farther end of all this It is awaragainstthepinestheonlyrealAroostookorPenobscotwarIhavenodoubtthattheylivedprettymuchthesamesortoflifeintheHomericageformenhavealwaysthoughtmoreofeatingthanoffightingthenasnowtheirmindsranchieflyonthehotbreadandsweetcakesandthefurandlumbertradeisanoldstorytoAsiaandEuropeIdoubtifmenevermadeatradeofheroismIn the days ofAchilles even they delighted in big barns and perchance inpressedhayandhewhopossessedthemostvaluableteamwasthebestfellowWehaddesignedtogoonateveninguptheCaucomgomocwhosemouthwasamileor twodistant to the lakeof thesamenameabout tenmilesoffbutsome Indians of Joes acquaintance who were making canoes on theCaucomgomoccameoverfromthatsideandgavesopooranaccountofthemoose-hunting so many had been killed there lately that my companionsconcluded not to go there Joe spent this Sunday and the night with hisacquaintancesThelumbererstoldmethatthereweremanymoosehereaboutsbutnocaribouordeerAmanfromOldtownhadkilledtenortwelvemoosewithinayear sonear thehouse that theyheardallhisgunsHisnamemayhavebeenHerculesforaughtIknowthoughIshouldratherhaveexpectedtohear the rattling of his club but no doubt he keeps pace with theimprovementsoftheageandusesaSharpsriflenowprobablyhegetsallhisarmor made and repaired at Smiths shop One moose had been killed andanother shot at within sight of the house within two years I do not knowwhetherSmithhasyetgotapoettolookafterthecattlewhichonaccountoftheearlybreakingupoftheicearecompelledtosummerinthewoodsbutIwouldsuggestthisofficetosuchofmyacquaintancesaslovetowriteversesandgoa-gunningAfter a dinner at which apple-saucewas the greatest luxury tome but ourmoose meat was oftenest called for by the lumberers I walked across theclearingintotheforestsouthwardreturningalongtheshoreFormydessertIhelpedmyself to a large slice of theChesuncookwoods and took a heartydraughtofitswaterswithallmysensesThewoodswereasfreshandfullofvegetable life as a lichen in wet weather and contained many interestingplantsbutunlesstheyareofwhitepinetheyaretreatedwithaslittlerespecthere as amildew and in the other case they are only themore quickly cutdownTheshorewasofcoarseflatslaterocksofteninslabswiththesurf

beatingonitTherocksandbleacheddrift-logsextendingsomewayintotheshaggywoodsshowedariseandfallofsixoreightfeetcausedpartlybythedamattheoutletTheysaidthatinwinterthesnowwasthreefeetdeeponalevelhereandsometimesfourorfivemdashthattheiceonthelakewastwofeetthick clear and four feet including the snow-ice Icehad already formed invesselsWe lodgedhere thisSundaynight in a comfortablebedroomapparently thebest one and all that I noticed unusual in the nightmdashfor I still kept takingnoteslikeaspyinthecampmdashwasthecreakingofthethinsplitboardswhenanyofourneighborsstirredSuchwerethefirstrudebeginningsofatownTheyspokeofthepracticabilityof awinter road to theMooseheadCarrywhichwould not costmuch andwouldconnect themwithsteamandstagingandall thebusyworldIalmostdoubted if the lakewould be theremdashthe self-same lakemdashpreserve its formand identitywhen theshoresshouldbeclearedandsettledas if these lakesandstreamswhichexplorersreportneverawaitedtheadventofthecitizenThe sight of one of these frontier houses built of these great logs whoseinhabitants have unflinchingly maintained their ground many summers andwinters in thewilderness remindsme of famous forts like Ticonderoga orCrown Point which have sustained memorable sieges They are especiallywinter-quartersandatthisseasonthisonehadapartiallydesertedlookasifthesiegewereraisedalittlethesnowbanksbeingmeltedfrombeforeitanditsgarrisonaccordingly reduced I thinkof theirdaily foodas rationsmdashit iscalledsuppliesaBibleandagreatcoataremunitionsofwaranda singleman seen about the premises is a sentinel on duty You expect that hewillrequirethecountersignandwillperchancetakeyouforEthanAllencometodemandthesurrenderofhisfortinthenameoftheContinentalCongressItisa sortof ranger serviceArnoldsexpedition isadailyexperiencewith thesesettlersTheycanprovethattheywereoutatalmostanytimeandIthinkthatallthefirstgenerationofthemdeserveapensionmorethananythatwenttotheMexicanwarEarly the next morning we started on our return up the Penobscot mycompanionwishingtogoabouttwenty-fivemilesabovetheMooseheadCarrytoacampnear the junctionof the twoforksand lookformoose thereOurhostallowedussomethingforthequarterofthemoosewhichwehadbroughtandwhichhewasgladtogetTwoexplorersfromChamberlainLakestartedatthesametimethatwedidRedflannelshirtsshouldbeworninthewoodsifonlyforthefinecontrastwhichthiscolormakeswiththeevergreensandthewater Thus I thoughtwhen I saw the forms of the explorers in their birchpolingup the rapids before us far off against the forest It is the surveyorscoloralsomostdistinctlyseenunderallcircumstancesWestoppedtodineat

Ragmuff as beforeMy companion it was whowandered up the stream tolookformoosethistimewhileJoewenttosleeponthebanksothatwefeltsureofhimandIimprovedtheopportunitytobotanizeandbatheSoonafterstartingagainwhileJoewasgonebackinthecanoeforthefrying-panwhichhadbeenleftwepickedacoupleofquartsoftree-cranberriesforasauceIwassurprisedbyJoesaskingmehowfaritwastotheMoosehornHewasprettywellacquaintedwiththisstreambuthehadnoticedthatIwascuriousaboutdistancesandhadseveralmapsHeandIndiansgenerallywithwhomIhavetalkedarenotabletodescribedimensionsordistancesinourmeasureswithanyaccuracyHecouldtellperhapsatwhattimeweshouldarrivebutnothowfar itwasWesawafewwoodduckssheldrakesandblackducksbuttheywerenotsonumerousthereatthatseasonasonourriverathomeWescaredthesamefamilyofwoodducksbeforeusgoingandreturningWealsoheardthenoteofonefishhawksomewhatlikethatofapigeonwoodpeckerandsoonaftersawhimperchednearthetopofadeadwhitepineagainsttheisland where we had first camped while a company of peetweets weretwitteringandteeteringaboutoverthecarcassofamooseonalowsandyspitjustbeneathWedrovethefishhawkfromperchtopercheachtimeelicitingascreamorwhistleformanymilesbeforeusOurcoursebeingup-streamwewere obliged to workmuch harder than before and had frequent use for apole Sometimes all three of us paddled together standing up small andheavilyladenasthecanoewasAboutsixmilesfromMooseheadwebegantosee themountains east of the north end of the lake and at four oclockwereachedthecarryThe Indians were still encamped here There were three including the StFrancis Indianwhohadcome in thesteamerwithusOneof theotherswascalledSabattis Joe and theStFrancis Indianwereplainly clear Indian theothertwoapparentlymixedIndianandwhitebutthedifferencewasconfinedtotheirfeaturesandcomplexionforallthatIcouldseeWeherecookedthetongueofthemooseforsuppermdashhavingleftthenosewhichisesteemedthechoicest part at Chesuncook boiling it being a good deal of trouble toprepareitWealsostewedourtree-cranberries(Viburnumopulus)sweeteningthemwith sugar The lumberers sometimes cook themwithmolasses TheywereusedinArnoldsexpeditionThissaucewasverygratefultouswhohadbeenconfinedtohard-breadporkandmoosemeatandnotwithstandingtheirseeds we all three pronounced them equal to the common cranberry butperhaps some allowance is to bemade for our forest appetites Itwould beworth thewhile to cultivate themboth for beauty and for food I afterwardsawtheminagardeninBangorJoesaidthattheywerecalledebeemenarWhile we were getting supper Joe commenced curing the moose-hide onwhichIhadsatagoodpartofthevoyagehehavingalreadycutmostofthe

hairoffwithhisknifeattheCaucomgomocHesetuptwostoutforkedpolesonthebanksevenoreightfeethighandasmuchasundereastandwestandhavingcutslitseightortenincheslongandthesamedistanceapartclosetotheedgeonthesidesofthehidehethreadedpolesthroughthemandthenplacingoneofthepolesontheforkedstakestiedtheotherdowntightlyatthebottomThetwoendsalsoweretiedwithcedarbarktheirusualstringtotheuprightpolesthroughsmallholesatshortintervalsThehidethusstretchedandslantedalittletothenorthtoexposeitsfleshsidetothesunmeasuredinthe extreme eight feet long by six highWhere any flesh still adhered Joeboldly scored it with his knife to lay it open to the sun It now appearedsomewhatspottedandinjuredbytheduckshotYoumayseetheoldframesonwhichhideshavebeenstretchedatmanycamping-placesinthesewoodsForsomereasonorother thegoing to theforksof thePenobscotwasgivenupandwedecided to stopheremycompanion intending tohuntdown thestreamatnightTheIndiansinvitedustolodgewiththembutmycompanioninclinedtogotothelogcamponthecarryThiscampwascloseanddirtyandhadanillsmellandIpreferredtoaccepttheIndiansofferifwedidnotmakeacampforourselvesforthoughtheyweredirtytootheyweremoreintheopenairandweremuchmoreagreeableandevenrefinedcompanythanthelumberers Themost interesting question entertained at the lumberers campwaswhichmancouldhandleanyotheronthecarryandforthemostparttheypossessednoqualitieswhichyoucouldnotlayhandsonSowewenttotheIndianscamporwigwamItwasratherwindyandthereforeJoeconcludedtohuntaftermidnightifthewindwentdownwhichtheotherIndiansthoughtitwouldnotdobecauseitwasfromthesouthThetwomixed-bloodshoweverwentoffuptheriverformooseatdarkbeforewearrivedattheircampThisIndiancampwasaslightpatched-up affair which had stood there several weeks built shed-fashionopentothefireonthewestIfthewindchangedtheycouldturnitroundItwasformedbytwoforkedstakesandacross-barwithraftersslantedfromthisto the ground The covering was partly an old sail partly birch-bark quiteimperfectbutsecurelytiedonandcomingdowntothegroundonthesidesAlarge log was rolled up at the back side for a headboard and two or threemoose-hideswere spreadon thegroundwith thehairupVariousarticlesoftheirwardrobewere tucked around the sides and corners or under the roofTheyweresmokingmoosemeatonjustsuchacrateasisrepresentedbyWithin De Brys Collectio Peregrinationum published in 1588 and which thenativesofBrazilcalledboucan(whencebuccaneer)onwhichwerefrequentlyshownpiecesofhumanfleshdryingalongwiththerestItwaserectedinfrontof thecampover theusual large fire in the formof anoblong squareTwostoutforkedstakesfourorfivefeetapartandfivefeethighweredrivenintothegroundateachendandthentwopolestenfeetlongwerestretchedacross

overthefireandsmalleroneslaidtransverselyontheseafootapartOnthelasthunglargethinslicesofmoosemeatsmokinganddryingaspacebeingleft open over the centre of the fire Therewas thewhole heart black as athirty-twopoundball hanging at one cornerThey said that it took threeorfourdaystocurethismeatanditwouldkeepayearormoreRefusepieceslayaboutonthegroundindifferentstagesofdecayandsomepiecesalsointhefirehalfburiedandsizzlingintheashesasblackanddirtyasanoldshoeTheselastIatfirstthoughtwerethrownawaybutafterwardsfoundthattheywerebeingcookedAlsoatremendousrib-piecewasroastingbeforethefirebeing impaledonanuprightstakeforced inandoutbetween theribsTherewasamoose-hidestretchedandcuringonpoleslikeoursandquiteapileofcuredskinsclosebyTheyhadkilled twenty-twomoosewithin twomonthsbutastheycouldusebutverylittleofthemeattheyleftthecarcasesonthegroundAltogetheritwasaboutassavageasightaswaseverwitnessedandIwas carried back at once three hundred years There weremany torches ofbirch-bark shaped like straight tin horns lying ready for use on a stumpoutsideFor fear of dirtwe spread our blankets over their hides so as not to touchthemanywhereTheStFrancisIndianandJoealonewerethereatfirstandwelayonourbackstalkingwiththemtillmidnightTheywereverysociableandwhen they did not talkwith us kept up a steady chatting in their ownlanguageWe heard a small bird just after dark which Joe said sang at acertain hour in the nightmdashat ten oclock he believed We also heard thehylodesandtree-toadsandthelumbererssingingintheircampaquarterofamile off I told them that I had seen pictured in old books pieces of humanfleshdryingonthesecrateswhereupontheyrepeatedsometraditionabouttheMohawks eating human fleshwhat parts they preferred etc and also of abattlewith theMohawksnearMoosehead inwhichmanyof the latterwerekilled but I found that they knewbut little of the history of their race andcouldbeentertainedbystoriesabouttheirancestorsasreadilyasanywayAtfirstIwasnearlyroastedoutforIlayagainstonesideofthecampandfelttheheatreflectednotonlyfromthebirch-barkabovebutfromthesideandagain I remembered the sufferings of the Jesuit missionaries and whatextremes of heat and cold the Indianswere said to endure I struggled longbetweenmydesiretoremainandtalkwiththemandmyimpulsetorushoutand stretchmyself on the cool grass andwhen Iwas about to take the laststep Joehearingmymurmursor elsebeinguncomfortablehimself gotupand partially dispersed the fire I suppose that that is Indian mannersmdashtodefendyourselfWhile lying there listening to the Indians I amused myself with trying toguessattheirsubjectbytheirgesturesorsomepropernameintroducedTherecanbenomorestartlingevidenceoftheirbeingadistinctandcomparatively

aboriginal race than to hear this unaltered Indian languagewhich thewhitemancannotspeaknorunderstandWemaysuspectchangeanddeteriorationinalmost every other particular but the language which is so whollyunintelligible to us It took me by surprise though I had found so manyarrowheads and convinced me that the Indian was not the invention ofhistorians andpoets Itwas apurelywild andprimitiveAmerican sound asmuchasthebarkingofachickareeandIcouldnotunderstandasyllableofitbut Paugus had he been there would have understood it These AbenakisgossipedlaughedandjestedinthelanguageinwhichEliotsIndianBibleiswritten the languagewhichhasbeenspoken inNewEnglandwhoshall sayhow long These were the sounds that issued from the wigwams of thiscountrybeforeColumbuswasborn theyhavenot yet died away andwithremarkably few exceptions the language of their forefathers is still copiousenoughforthemIfeltthatIstoodorratherlayasneartotheprimitivemanofAmericathatnightasanyofitsdiscovererseverdidInthemidstoftheirconversationJoesuddenlyappealedtometoknowhowlongMooseheadLakewasMeanwhileaswelaythereJoewasmakingandtryinghishorntobereadyforhunting aftermidnightTheStFrancis Indian also amusedhimselfwithsoundingitorrathercallingthroughitforthesoundismadewiththevoiceandnotbyblowingthroughthehornThelatterappearedtobeaspeculatorinmoose-hidesHeboughtmycompanionsfortwodollarsandaquartergreenJoe said that it was worth two and a half at Oldtown Its chief use is formoccasinsOneortwooftheseIndiansworethemIwastoldthatbyarecentlawofMaine foreigners are not allowed to killmoose there at any seasonwhiteAmericanscankill themonlyataparticularseasonbuttheIndiansofMaineatallseasonsTheStFrancisIndianaccordinglyaskedmycompanionforawighigginorbilltoshowsincehewasaforeignerHelivednearSorelIfoundthathecouldwritehisnameverywellTahmuntSwasenOneEllisanoldwhitemanofGuilfordatownthroughwhichwepassednotfarfromthesouthendofMooseheadwasthemostcelebratedmoose-hunterofthosepartsIndiansandwhitesspokewithequal respectofhimTahmuntsaid that thereweremoremooseherethanintheAdirondackcountryinNewYorkwherehehadhunted that threeyearsbefore therewereagreatmanyaboutandtherewereagreatmanynowinthewoodsbuttheydidnotcomeouttothewaterItwas of no use to hunt them atmidnightmdashtheywould not come out then Iasked Sabattis after he came home if the moose never attacked him HeansweredthatyoumustnotfiremanytimessoastomadhimIfireonceandhithimintherightplaceandinthemorningIfindhimHewontgofarButifyoukeepfiringyoumadhimIfiredoncefivebulletseveryonethroughtheheartandhedidnotmindematallitonlymadehimmoremadIaskedhimiftheydidnothuntthemwithdogsHesaidthattheydidsoinwinterbut

never in the summer for then it was of no use they would run right offstraightandswiftlyahundredmilesAnotherIndiansaidthatthemooseoncescaredwouldrunalldayAdogwillhangtotheirlipsandbecarriedalongtillheisswungagainstatreeanddropsoffTheycannotrunonaglazethoughtheycanruninsnowfourfeetdeepbut the caribou can run on ice They commonly find two or three moosetogetherTheycoverthemselveswithwaterallbuttheirnosestoescapefliesHehadthehornsofwhathecalledtheblackmoosethatgoesinlowlandsThesespreadthreeorfourfeetTheredmoosewasanotherkindrunningon mountains and had horns which spread six feet Such were hisdistinctionsBothcanmovetheirhornsThebroadflatbladesarecoveredwithhairandaresosoftwhentheanimalisalivethatyoucanrunaknifethroughthemTheyregarditasagoodorbadsignifthehornsturnthiswayorthatHiscaribouhornshadbeengnawedbymice inhiswigwambuthe thoughtthatthehornsneitherofthemoosenorofthecaribouwereevergnawedwhilethe creaturewas alive as somehave assertedAn Indianwhom Imet afterthisatOldtownwhohadcarriedaboutabearandotheranimalsofMainetoexhibittoldmethatthirtyyearsagotherewerenotsomanymooseinMaineasnow also that themoosewerevery easily tamed andwould comebackwhen once fed and so would deer but not caribou The Indians of thisneighborhood are about as familiar with the moose as we are with the oxhaving associatedwith them for somany generations Father Rasles in hisDictionary of the Abenaki Language gives not only a word for the malemoose(aianbeacute)andanotherforthefemale(hegraverar)butforthebonewhichisinthemiddleoftheheartofthemoose()andforhislefthindlegTherewerenoneofthesmalldeeruptheretheyaremorecommonaboutthesettlements One ran into the city of Bangor two years before and jumpedthrough a window of costly plate glass and then into a mirror where itthought it recognizedoneof itskindandoutagainandsoon leapingovertheheadsofthecrowduntilitwascapturedThistheinhabitantsspeakofasthedeerthatwenta-shoppingThelast-mentionedIndianspokeofthelunxusorIndiandevil(whichItaketobethecougarandnottheGuloluscus)astheonlyanimalinMainewhichmanneedfearitwouldfollowamananddidnotmind a fire He also said that beavers were getting to be pretty numerousagain where wewent but their skins brought so little now that it was notprofitabletohuntthemIhadputtheearsofourmoosewhichweretenincheslongtodryalongwiththemoosemeatoverthefirewishingtopreservethembutSabattistoldmethatImustskinandcurethemelsethehairwouldallcomeoffHeobservedthat they made tobacco pouches of the skins of their ears putting the twotogetherinsidetoinsideIaskedhimhowhegotfireandheproducedalittle

cylindrical box of friction matches He also had flints and steel and somepunkwhichwasnotdryI thinkitwasfromtheyellowbirchButsupposeyouupsetandalltheseandyourpowdergetwetThensaidhewewaittillwegettowherethereissomefireIproducedfrommypocketalittlevialcontainingmatchesstoppledwater-tightandtoldhimthat thoughwewereupset we should still have some dry matches at which he stared withoutsayingawordWe lay awake thus a long while talking and they gave us the meaning ofmanyIndiannamesoflakesandstreamsinthevicinitymdashespeciallyTahmuntI asked the Indian name of Moosehead Lake Joe answered SebamookTahmunt pronounced it Sebemook When I asked what it meant theyansweredMooseheadLakeAt lengthgettingmymeaning theyalternatelyrepeatedthewordovertothemselvesasaphilologistmightmdashSebamookmdashSebamookmdashnowand thencomparingnotes in Indian for therewasaslightdifferenceintheirdialectsandfinallyTahmuntsaidUghIknowmdashandherose up partly on the moose-hidemdashlike as here is a place and there is aplacepointingtodifferentpartsofthehideandyoutakewaterfromthereandfill thisand it stayshere that isSebamook Iunderstoodhim tomeanthatitwasareservoirofwaterwhichdidnotrunawaytherivercominginononesideandpassingoutagainnearthesameplaceleavingapermanentbayAnotherIndiansaidthatitmeantLargeBayLakeandthatSebagoandSebecthenamesofotherlakeswerekindredwordsmeaninglargeopenwaterJoesaidthatSebooismeantLittleRiverIobservedtheirinabilityoftendescribedto convey an abstract idea Having got the idea though indistinctly theygropedaboutinvainforwordswithwhichtoexpressitTahmuntthoughtthatthewhitescalleditMooseheadLakebecauseMountKineowhichcommandsitisshapedlikeamoosesheadandthatMooseRiverwassocalledbecausethemountainpointsrightacrossthelaketoitsmouthJohnJosselynwritingabout1673 says Twelvemiles fromCascoBayandpassable formenandhorsesisalakecalledbytheIndiansSebugOnthebrinkthereofatoneendisthefamousrockshapedlikeamoosedeerorhelkdiaphanousandcalledtheMoose RockHe appears to have confounded Sebamookwith SebagowhichisnearerbuthasnodiaphanousrockonitsshoreIgivemoreoftheirdefinitionsforwhattheyareworthmdashpartlybecausetheydiffer sometimes from the commonly received ones They never analyzedthesewordsbeforeAfterlongdeliberationandrepeatingofthewordmdashforitgave much troublemdashTahmunt said that Chesuncook meant a place wheremany streams emptied in () and he enumerated themmdashPenobscotUmbazookskusCusabesexRedBrooketcCaucomgomocmdashwhatdoesthatmeanWhatare those largewhitebirdsheaskedGulls said I UghGull Lake Pammadumcook Joe thought meant the Lake with GravellyBottomorBedKenduskeagTahmuntconcludedatlastafteraskingifbirches

went up itmdashfor he said that he was not much acquainted with itmdashmeantsomethinglikethisYougoupPenobscottillyoucometoKenduskeagandyougobyyoudont turnup thereThat isKenduskeag ()Another IndianhoweverwhoknewtheriverbettertoldusafterwardthatitmeantLittleEelRiverMattawamkeagwasaplacewheretworiversmeet()PenobscotwasRocky River One writer says that this was originally the name of only asectionofthemainchannelfromtheheadofthetide-watertoashortdistanceaboveOldtownA very intelligent Indian whom we afterward met son-in-law of Neptunegave us also these other definitions Umbazookskus MeadowStreamMillinoket Place of Islands Aboljacarmegus Smooth-Ledge Falls(andDeadwater)Aboljacarmeguscook thestreamemptying in (the lastwasthe word he gave when I asked about Aboljacknagesic which he did notrecognize)MattahumkeagSand-CreekPondPiscataquisBranchofaRiverI asked our hosts what Musketaquid the Indian name of ConcordMassachusettsmeantbuttheychangedittoMusketicookandrepeatedthatandTahmunt said that itmeantDeadStreamwhich is probably trueCookappearstomeanstreamandperhapsquidsignifiestheplaceorgroundWhenIaskedthemeaningofthenamesoftwoofourhillstheyansweredthattheywere another language As Tahmunt said that he traded at Quebec mycompanioninquiredthemeaningof thewordQuebecaboutwhichtherehasbeensomuchquestionHedidnotknowbutbegantoconjectureHeaskedwhat those great ships were called that carried soldiers Men-of-war weanswered Well he said when the English ships came up the river theycouldnotgoanyfartheritwassonarrowtheretheymustgobackmdashgo-backmdashthatsQue-becImentionthistoshowthevalueofhisauthorityintheothercasesLate at night the other two Indians came home from moose-hunting nothaving been successful aroused the fire again lighted their pipes smokedawhiletooksomethingstrongtodrinkandatesomemoosemeatandfindingwhatroomtheycouldlaydownonthemoose-hidesandthuswepassedthenighttwowhitemenandfourIndianssidebysideWhenIawokein themorningtheweatherwasdrizzlingOneof theIndianswas lying outside rolled in his blanket on the opposite side of the fire forwantofroomJoehadneglectedtoawakemycompanionandhehaddonenohunting that night Tahmunt was making a cross-bar for his canoe with asingularly shaped knife such as I have since seen other Indians using Thebladewasthinaboutthreequartersofaninchwideandeightornineincheslong but curved out of its plane into a hook which he said made it moreconvenienttoshavewithAstheIndiansveryfarnorthandnorthwestusethesame kind of knife I suspect that it was made according to an aboriginal

patternthoughsomewhiteartisansmayuseasimilaroneTheIndiansbakedaloafofflourbreadinaspideronitsedgebeforethefirefortheirbreakfastandwhilemycompanionwasmaking tea Icaughtadozensizablefishes inthePenobscottwokindsofsuckerandonetroutAfterwehadbreakfastedbyourselvesoneofourbed-fellowswhohadalsobreakfastedcamealongandbeing invited took a cup of tea and finally taking up the common platterlicked it cleanBut hewas nothing to awhite fellow a lumbererwhowascontinuallystuffinghimselfwiththeIndiansmoosemeatandwasthebuttofhiscompanionsaccordinglyHeseemstohavethoughtthatitwasafeasttoeatallItiscommonlysaidthatthewhitemanfinallysurpassestheIndianonhis own ground and it was proved true in this case I cannot swear to hisemploymentduringthehoursofdarknessbutIsawhimatitagainassoonasitwaslightthoughhecameaquarterofamiletohisworkTherainpreventedourcontinuinganylongerinthewoodssogivingsomeofourprovisionsandutensilstotheIndianswetookleaveofthemThisbeingthesteamersdayIsetoutforthelakeatonceIwalkedoverthecarryaloneandwaitedattheheadofthelakeAneagleorsomeotherlargebirdflewscreamingawayfromitsperchbytheshoreatmyapproachForanhourafterIreachedtheshoretherewasnotahumanbeingtobeseenandIhadallthatwideprospecttomyselfIthoughtthatIheardthesoundofthesteamerbeforeshecameinsightontheopenlakeInoticedatthelandingwhenthesteamercameinoneofourbed-fellowswhohadbeena-moose-hunting thenightbefore nowvery sprucelydressed in a cleanwhiteshirtandfineblackpantsatrueIndiandandywhohadevidentlycomeoverthe carry to show himself to any arrivers on the north shore ofMooseheadLake just asNewYork dandies take a turn upBroadway and stand on thestepsofahotelMidwaythelakewetookonboardtwomanly-lookingmiddle-agedmenwiththeirbatteauwhohadbeenexploringforsixweeksasfarastheCanadalineandhadlettheirbeardsgrowTheyhadtheskinofabeaverwhichtheyhadrecentlycaughtstretchedonanovalhoopthoughthefurwasnotgoodatthatseasonItalkedwithoneofthemtellinghimthatIhadcomeallthisdistancepartlytoseewherethewhitepine theEasternstuffofwhichourhousesarebuilt grew but that on this and a previous excursion into another part ofMaineIhadfounditascarcetreeandIaskedhimwhereImustlookforitWithasmileheansweredthathecouldhardlytellmeHoweverhesaidthathehad foundenough toemploy two teams thenextwinter inaplacewheretherewas thought tobenone leftWhatwasconsideredatip-top treenowwasnotlookedattwentyyearsagowhenhefirstwentintothebusinessbuttheysucceededverywellnowwithwhatwasconsideredquiteinferiortimberthenTheexplorerusedtocutintoatreehigherandhigheruptoseeifitwas

false-heartedandiftherewasarottenheartasbigashisarmheletitalonebutnowtheycutsuchatreeandsaweditallaroundtherotanditmadetheverybestofboardsforinsuchacasetheywerenevershakyOneconnectedwith lumberingoperationsatBangor toldme that the largestpinebelongingtohisfirmcutthepreviouswinterscaledinthewoodsfourthousand five hundred feet and was worth ninety dollars in the log at theBangorboominOldtownTheycutaroadthreeandahalfmileslongforthistreealoneHethoughtthattheprincipallocalityforthewhitepinethatcamedownthePenobscotnowwasattheheadoftheEastBranchandtheAllegashaboutWebster Stream and Eagle and Chamberlain lakes Much timber hasbeen stolen from the public lands (Pray what kind of forest-warden is thePublic itself) Iheardofonemanwhohavingdiscoveredsomeparticularlyfine trees just within the boundaries of the public lands and not daring toemploy an accomplice cut them down and bymeans of block and tacklewithout cattle tumbled them into a stream and so succeeded in getting offwiththemwithouttheleastassistanceSurelystealingpinetreesinthiswayisnotsomeanasrobbinghen-roostsWereachedMonsonthatnightandthenextdayrodetoBangorallthewayinthe rain again varying our route a little Some of the taverns on this roadwhichwereparticularlydirtywereplainlyinatransitionstatefromthecamptothehouseThe next forenoon we went to Oldtown One slender old Indian on theOldtown shore who recognized my companion was full of mirth andgestureslikeaFrenchmanACatholicpriestcrossedtotheislandinthesamebatteauwith us The Indian houses are framedmostly of one story and inrowsonebehindanotherat thesouthendof theislandwithafewscatteredonesIcountedaboutfortynotincludingthechurchandwhatmycompanioncalled thecouncil-houseThe lastwhich I suppose is their town-housewasregularlyframedandshingledliketherestTherewereseveraloftwostoriesquiteneatwithfrontyards inclosedandoneat leasthadgreenblindsHereandthereweremoose-hidesstretchedanddryingabout themTherewerenocart-pathsnortracksofhorsesbutfootpathsverylittlelandcultivatedbutanabundanceofweedsindigenousandnaturalizedmoreintroducedweedsthanuseful vegetables as the Indian is said to cultivate the vices rather than thevirtues of the white man Yet this village was cleaner than I expected farcleaner than such Irish villages as I have seen The children were notparticularly ragged nor dirty The little boys met us with bow in hand andarrowonstringandcriedPutupacentVerilytheIndianhasbutafeebleholdonhisbownowbutthecuriosityofthewhitemanisinsatiableandfromthefirsthehasbeeneagertowitnessthisforestaccomplishmentThatelasticpieceofwoodwithitsfeathereddartsosuretobeunstrungbycontactwith

civilizationwillserveforthetypethecoat-of-armsofthesavageAlasfortheHunterRacethewhitemanhasdrivenofftheirgameandsubstitutedacentinitsplaceIsawanIndianwomanwashingatthewatersedgeShestoodonarockandafterdippingtheclothesinthestreamlaidthemontherockandbeatthemwithashortclubInthegraveyardwhichwascrowdedwithgravesand overrun with weeds I noticed an inscription in Indian painted on awoodengrave-boardTherewasalargewoodencrossontheislandSincemycompanionknewhimwecalledonGovernorNeptunewholivedina little ten-footer one of the humblest of them all Personalities areallowableinspeakingofpublicmenthereforeIwillgivetheparticularsofourvisit Hewas abedWhenwe entered the roomwhichwas one half of thehousehewassittingonthesideofthebedTherewasaclockhanginginonecorner He had on a black frock coat and black pants much worn whitecottonshirtsocksaredsilkhandkerchiefabouthisneckandastrawhatHisblack hair was only slightly grayed He had very broad cheeks and hisfeatures were decidedly and refreshingly different from those of any of theupstartNativeAmericanpartywhomIhaveseenHewasnodarkerthanmanyoldwhitemenHetoldmethathewaseighty-ninebuthewasgoinga-moose-hunting that fall ashehadbeen thepreviousoneProbablyhiscompanionsdidthehuntingWesawvarioussquawsdodgingaboutOnesatonthebedbyhissideandhelpedhimoutwithhisstoriesTheywereremarkablycorpulentwithsmoothroundfacesapparentlyfullofgood-humorCertainlyourmuch-abusedclimatehadnotdrieduptheiradiposesubstanceWhileweweretheremdashforwestayedagoodwhilemdashonewentover toOldtownreturnedandcutoutadresswhichshehadboughtonanotherbedintheroomTheGovernorsaidthathecouldrememberwhenthemooseweremuchlargerthattheydidnotusetobeinthewoodsbutcameoutofthewaterasalldeerdidMoosewas whale once Away down Merrimack way a whale came ashore in ashallow bay Seawent out and left him and he came up on land amooseWhatmadethemknowhewasawhalewas thatat firstbeforehebegantoruninbusheshehadnobowelsinsidebutmdashandthenthesquawwhosatonthebedbyhissideastheGovernorsaidandhadbeenputtinginawordnowandthenandconfirmingthestoryaskedmewhatwecalledthatsoftthingwefindalongtheseashoreJelly-fishIsuggestedYessaidhenobowelsbutjelly-fishThere may be some truth in what he said about the moose growing largerformerly for thequaintJohnJosselynaphysicianwhospentmanyyears inthisverydistrictofMaineintheseventeenthcenturysaysthatthetipsoftheirhornsaresometimesfoundtobetwofathomsasundermdashandheisparticulartotellusthatafathomissixfeetmdashand[theyare]inheightfromthetoeofthe fore foot to thepitchof the shoulder twelve footbothwhichhathbeentaken by some ofmy sceptique readers to bemonstrous lies and he adds

There are certain transcendentia in every creature which are the indeliblecharacterofGodandwhichdiscoverGodThis isagreaterdilemma tobecaught in than is presented by the cranium of the young Bechuana oxapparently another of the transcendentia in the collection of Thomas SteelUpper Brook Street London whose entire length of horn from tip to tipalongthecurveis13ft5indistance(straight)betweenthetipsofthehorns8 ft8frac12 inHowever the sizebothof themooseand thecougar as IhavefoundisgenerallyratherunderratedthanoverratedandIshouldbeinclinedtoaddtothepopularestimateapartofwhatIsubtractedfromJosselynsButwetalkedmostlywiththeGovernorsson-in-lawaverysensibleIndianand the Governor being so old and deaf permitted himself to be ignoredwhile we asked questions about him The former said that there were twopoliticalpartiesamongthemmdashoneinfavorofschoolsandtheotheropposedto themor rather theydidnotwish to resist thepriestwhowasopposed tothem The first had just prevailed at the election and sent their man to thelegislatureNeptuneandAitteonandhehimselfwereinfavorofschoolsHesaidIfIndiansgotlearningtheywouldkeeptheirmoneyWhenweaskedwhereJoesfatherAitteonwasheknewthathemustbeatLincolnthoughhewas about going a-moose-hunting for amessenger had just gone to himtheretogethissignaturetosomepapersIaskedNeptuneiftheyhadanyoftheoldbreedofdogsyetHeansweredYesButthatsaidIpointingtoonethathadjustcomeinisaYankeedogHeassentedIsaidthathedidnot look likeagoodone Ohyeshe said andhe toldwithmuchgustohowtheyearbeforehehadcaughtandheldbythethroatawolfAverysmallblackpuppyrushedintotheroomandmadeattheGovernorsfeetashesatinhis stockingswithhis legsdangling from thebedsideTheGovernor rubbedhis hands and dared him to come on entering into the sport with spiritNothingmore thatwas significant transpired tomy knowledge during thisinterviewThiswasthefirsttimethatIevercalledonagovernorbutasIdidnotaskforanofficeIcanspeakofitwiththemorefreedomAnIndianwhowasmakingcanoesbehindahouselookinguppleasantlyfromhis workmdashfor he knewmy companionmdashsaid that his namewasOld JohnPennyweightIhadheardofhimlongbeforeandI inquiredafteroneofhiscontemporariesJoeFour-pence-hapennybutalashenolongercirculatesImade a faithful study of canoe-building and I thought that I should like toserveanapprenticeshipatthattradeforoneseasongoingintothewoodsforbarkwithmybossmakingthecanoethereandreturninginitatlastWhilethebatteauwascomingovertotakeusoffIpickedupsomefragmentsofarrowheadsontheshoreandonebrokenstonechiselwhichweregreaternoveltiestotheIndiansthantomeAfterthisonOldFortHillatthebendofthe Penobscot three miles above Bangor looking for the site of an Indian

townwhichsomethinkstoodthereaboutsIfoundmorearrowheadsandtwolittledarkandcrumblingfragmentsofIndianearthenwareintheashesoftheirfiresTheIndiansontheislandappearedtolivequitehappilyandtobewelltreatedbytheinhabitantsofOldtownWe visitedVeaziesmills just below the islandwherewere sixteen sets ofsawsmdashsomegangsawssixteeninagangnot tomentioncircularsawsOnonesidetheywerehaulingthelogsupaninclinedplanebywater-powerontheotherpassingouttheboardsplanksandsawedtimberandformingtheminto raftsThe treeswere literallydrawnandquartered there In forming therafts they use the lower three feet of hard-wood saplings which have acrookedandknobbedbutt-endforboltspassingthemupthroughholesboredin the corners and sidesof the rafts andkeying them In another apartmenttheyweremakingfence-slatssuchasstandalloverNewEnglandoutofoddsand ends and it may be that I sawwhere the picket-fence behind which Idwell at home came from Iwas surprised to find a boy collecting the longedgingsofboardsasfastascutoffandthrustingthemdownahopperwherethey were ground up beneath the mill that they might be out of the wayotherwisetheyaccumulateinvastpilesbythesideofthebuildingincreasingthedangerfromfireorfloatingofftheyobstructtheriverThiswasnotonlya sawmill but a gristmill then The inhabitants ofOldtown Stillwater andBangorcannotsufferforwantofkindlingstuffsurelySomeget their livingexclusively by picking up the driftwood and selling it by the cord in thewinterInoneplaceIsawwhereanIrishmanwhokeepsateamandamanforthepurposehadcoveredtheshoreforalongdistancewithregularpilesandIwas told that he had sold twelve hundred dollarsworth in a yearAnotherwholivedbytheshoretoldmethathegotallthematerialofhisoutbuildingsandfencesfromtheriverandinthatneighborhoodIperceivedthatthisrefusewood was frequently used instead of sand to fill hollows with beingapparentlycheaperthandirtIgotmyfirstclearviewofKtaadnon thisexcursion fromahillabout twomilesnorthwestofBangorwhither Iwent for thispurposeAfter this IwasreadytoreturntoMassachusettsHumboldthaswrittenaninterestingchapterontheprimitiveforestbutnoonehasyetdescribed forme thedifferencebetween thatwild forestwhichonceoccupiedouroldesttownshipsandthetameonewhichIfindthereto-dayItisadifferencewhichwouldbeworthattending toThecivilizedmannotonlyclearsthelandpermanentlytoagreatextentandcultivatesopenfieldsbuthetamesandcultivatestoacertainextenttheforestitselfByhismerepresencealmosthechangesthenatureofthetreesasnoothercreaturedoesThesunand air and perhaps fire have been introduced and grain raised where itstands It has lost itswild damp and shaggy look the countless fallen and

decayingtreesaregoneandconsequentlythatthickcoatofmosswhichlivedonthemisgonetooTheearthiscomparativelybareandsmoothanddryThemostprimitiveplacesleftwithusaretheswampswherethesprucestillgrowsshaggy with usnea The surface of the ground in the Maine woods iseverywhere spongy and saturated with moisture I noticed that the plantswhich cover the forest floor there are such as are commonly confined toswamps with usmdashtheClintonia borealis orchises creeping snowberry andothersand theprevailingaster there is theAsteracuminatuswhichwithusgrowsindampandshadywoodsTheasterscordifoliusandmacrophyllusalsoarecommonastersoflittleornocolorandsometimeswithoutpetalsIsawno soft spreading second-growth white pines with smooth barkacknowledging the presence of thewoodchopper but even the youngwhitepineswerealltallandslenderrough-barkedtreesThose Maine woods differ essentially from ours There you are neverreminded that the wilderness which you are threading is after all somevillagers familiarwood-lot somewidows thirds fromwhich her ancestorshavesleddedfuelforgenerationsminutelydescribedinsomeolddeedwhichisrecordedofwhichtheownerhasgotaplantooandoldbound-marksmaybe foundevery forty rods ifyouwill search Tis true themapmay informyou that you stand on land granted by the State to some academy or onBinghams purchase but these names do not impose on you for you seenothingtoremindyouoftheacademyorofBinghamWhatweretheforestsofEnglandtotheseOnewriterrelatesoftheIsleofWightthatinCharlestheSecondstimetherewerewoodsintheislandsocompleteandextensivethatitissaidasquirrelmighthavetraveledinseveralpartsmanyleaguestogetheron the topof the trees If itwerenot for the rivers (andhemightgo roundtheirheads)asquirrelcouldheretravelthusthewholebreadthofthecountryWe have as yet had no adequate account of a primitive pine forest I havenoticedthatinaphysicalatlaslatelypublishedinMassachusettsandusedinourschoolsthewoodlandofNorthAmericaislimitedalmostsolelytothevalleysoftheOhioandsomeoftheGreatLakesandthegreatpineforestsoftheglobearenotrepresentedInourvicinityforinstanceNewBrunswickandMaine are exhibited as bare as Greenland It may be that the children ofGreenville at the foot ofMoosehead Lakewho surely are not likely to bescared by an owl are referred to the valley of theOhio to get an idea of aforestbut theywouldnotknowwhat todowith theirmoosebearcariboubeaver etc thereShallwe leave it to anEnglishman to informus that inNorthAmericabothintheUnitedStatesandCanadaarethemostextensivepineforests in theworldThegreaterpartofNewBrunswick thenorthernhalfofMaineandadjacentpartsofCanadanot tomentionthenortheasternpartofNewYorkandothertractsfartheroffarestillcoveredwithanalmostunbrokenpineforest

ButMaineperhapswillsoonbewhereMassachusettsisAgoodpartofherterritory is alreadyasbare andcommonplaceasmuchofourneighborhoodandhervillagesgenerally arenot sowell shadedasoursWe seem to thinkthat the earth must go through the ordeal of sheep-pasturage before it ishabitablebymanConsiderNahanttheresortofallthefashionofBostonmdashwhichpeninsula I sawbut indistinctly in the twilightwhen I steamedby itandthoughtthatitwasunchangedsincethediscoveryJohnSmithdescribeditin 1614 as the Mattahunts two pleasant isles of groves gardens andcornfields and others tell us that it was once well wooded and evenfurnishedtimbertobuildthewharvesofBostonNowitisdifficulttomakeatreegrowthereandthevisitorcomesawaywithavisionofMrTudorsuglyfences a rod high designed to protect a fewpear shrubsAndwhat arewecoming to inourMiddlesex townsAbald staring town-houseormeeting-houseandabareliberty-poleasleaflessasitisfruitlessforallIcanseeWeshall be obliged to import the timber for the last hereafter or splice suchsticksaswehaveAndourideasoflibertyareequallymeanwiththeseThevery willow-rows lopped every three years for fuel or powder and everysizablepineandoakorotherforesttreecutdownwithinthememoryofmanAsifindividualspeculatorsweretobeallowedtoexportthecloudsoutoftheskyorthestarsoutofthefirmamentonebyoneWeshallbereducedtognawtheverycrustoftheearthfornutrimentThey have even descended to smaller game They have lately as I hearinvented a machine for chopping up huckleberry bushes fine and soconverting them into fuelmdashbusheswhich for fruit alone areworth all thepear trees in thecountrymanytimesover (Icangiveyoua listof the threebestkindsifyouwantit)Atthisrateweshallallbeobligedtoletourbeardsgrow at least if only to hide the nakedness of the land andmake a sylvanappearanceThe farmer sometimes talks of brushingup simply as if bareground looked better than clothed ground than thatwhichwears its naturalvesturemdashasifthewildhedgeswhichperhapsaremoretohischildrenthanhiswholefarmbesideweredirtIknowofonewhodeservestobecalledtheTree-hater and perhaps to leave this for a newpatronymic to his childrenYouwouldthinkthathehadbeenwarnedbyanoraclethathewouldbekilledby the fallof a tree and sowas resolved toanticipate themThe journaliststhink that they cannot say too much in favor of such improvements inhusbandryitisasafethemelikepietybutasforthebeautyofoneofthesemodelfarmsIwouldasliefseeapatentchurnandamanturningitTheyare commonlyplacesmerelywhere somebody ismakingmoney itmaybecounterfeitingThevirtueofmakingtwobladesofgrassgrowwhereonlyonegrewbeforedoesnotbegintobesuperhumanNevertheless it was a relief to get back to our smooth but still variedlandscapeForapermanentresidenceitseemedtomethattherecouldbeno

comparison between this and thewilderness necessary as the latter is for aresource and a background the raw material of all our civilization ThewildernessissimplealmosttobarrennessThepartiallycultivatedcountryitiswhichchieflyhasinspiredandwillcontinuetoinspirethestrainsofpoetssuchascompose themassofany literatureOurwoodsaresylvanand theirinhabitants woodmen and rustics that is selvaggia and the inhabitants aresalvagesAcivilizedmanusingthewordintheordinarysensewithhisideasand associations must at length pine there like a cultivated plant whichclasps its fibresaboutacrudeandundissolvedmassofpeatAt theextremenorth the voyagers are obliged to dance and act plays for employmentPerhaps our own woods and fieldsmdashin the best wooded towns where weneed not quarrel about the huckleberriesmdashwith the primitive swampsscatteredhereand there in theirmidstbutnotprevailingover themare theperfectionofparksandgrovesgardensarborspathsvistasandlandscapesTheyare thenaturalconsequenceofwhatartandrefinementweasapeoplehavemdashthe common which each village possesses its true paradise incomparisonwithwhichallelaboratelyandwillfullywealth-constructedparksandgardensarepaltryimitationsOrIwouldrathersaysuchwereourgrovestwenty years ago The poets commonly is not a loggers path but awoodmansTheloggerandpioneerhaveprecededhimlikeJohntheBaptisteatenthewildhoneyitmaybebutthelocustsalsobanisheddecayingwoodand the spongy mosses which feed on it and built hearths and humanizedNatureforhimBut there are spirits of a yetmore liberal culture towhomno simplicity isbarrenTherearenotonlystatelypinesbutfragileflowersliketheorchisescommonly described as too delicate for cultivation which derive theirnutriment fromthecrudestmassofpeatTheseremindus thatnotonlyforstrengthbut forbeauty thepoetmust fromtime to time travel the loggerspathandtheIndianstrailtodrinkatsomenewandmorebracingfountainoftheMusesfarintherecessesofthewildernessThekingsofEnglandformerlyhadtheirforeststoholdthekingsgameforsportor food sometimesdestroyingvillages tocreateorextend themand IthinkthattheywereimpelledbyatrueinstinctWhyshouldnotwewhohaverenouncedthekingsauthorityhaveournationalpreserveswherenovillagesneedbedestroyedinwhichthebearandpantherandsomeevenofthehunterrace may still exist and not be civilized off the face of the earthmdashourforestsnottoholdthekingsgamemerelybuttoholdandpreservethekinghimself also the lord of creationmdashnot for idle sport or food but forinspiration and our own true recreation or shall we like the villains grubthemalluppoachingonourownnationaldomains

THEALLEGASHANDEASTBRANCH

I startedonmy thirdexcursion to theMainewoodsMonday July201857withonecompanionarrivingatBangorthenextdayatnoonWehadhardlyleftthesteamerwhenwepassedMollyMolassesinthestreetAslongasshelives the Penobscots may be considered extant as a tribe The succeedingmorning a relative of mine who is well acquainted with the PenobscotIndiansandwhohadbeenmycompanioninmytwopreviousexcursionsintotheMainewoodstookmeinhiswagontoOldtowntoassistmeinobtaininganIndianforthisexpeditionWewereferriedacrosstotheIndianIslandinabatteauThe ferrymansboyhadgot thekey to itbut the fatherwhowasablacksmithafteralittlehesitationcutthechainwithacold-chiselontherockHe told me that the Indians were nearly all gone to the seaboard and toMassachusetts partly on account of the smallpoxmdashof which they are verymuchafraidmdashhavingbrokenoutinOldtownanditwasdoubtfulwhetherweshouldfindasuitableoneathomeTheoldchiefNeptunehoweverwastherestillThe firstmanwesawon the islandwasan IndiannamedJosephPoliswhommy relative had known from a boy and now addressed familiarly asJoeHewas dressing a deer-skin in his yardThe skinwas spread over aslantinglogandhewasscrapingitwithastickheldbybothhandsHewasstoutlybuiltperhapsalittleabovethemiddleheightwithabroadfaceandasotherssaidperfectIndianfeaturesandcomplexionHishousewasatwo-storywhiteonewithblindsthebest-lookingthatInoticedthereandasgoodas an average one on aNewEngland village street Itwas surrounded by agarden and fruit-trees single cornstalks standing thinly amid the beansWeaskedhimifheknewanygoodIndianwhowouldlike togointo thewoodswithus that is to theAllegashLakesbywayofMooseheadandreturnbytheEastBranchofthePenobscotorvaryfromthisaswepleasedTowhichheansweredoutofthatstrangeremotenessinwhichtheIndianeverdwellstothewhitemanMeliketogomyselfmewantstogetsomemooseandkepton scraping the skinHis brother had been into thewoodswithmy relativeonly a year or two before and the Indian now inquiredwhat the latter haddone tohim thathedidnotcomeback forhehadnotseennorheard fromhimsinceAtlengthwegotroundtothemoreinterestingtopicagainTheferrymanhadtoldus thatall thebest IndiansweregoneexceptPoliswhowasoneof thearistocracyHetobesurewouldbethebestmanwecouldhavebutifhewentatallwouldwantagreatpricesowedidnotexpecttogethimPolisaskedatfirsttwodollarsadaybutagreedtogoforadollarandahalfandfiftycentsaweek for his canoeHewould come toBangorwithhis canoeby the sevenoclock train that eveningmdashwemightdependonhimWe thoughtourselveslucky to secure the services of thismanwhowas known to be particularly

steadyandtrustworthyI spent the afternoonwithmy companionwho had remained inBangor inpreparingforourexpeditionpurchasingprovisionshard-breadporkcoffeesugaretcandsomeindia-rubberclothingWehadatfirstthoughtofexploringtheStJohnfromitssourcetoitsmouthorelsetogoupthePenobscotbyitsEastBranchtothelakesoftheStJohnandreturnbywayofChesuncookandMooseheadWehadfinallyinclinedtothelastrouteonlyreversingtheorderofitgoingbywayofMooseheadandreturningbythePenobscototherwiseitwouldhavebeenallthewayupstreamandtakentwiceaslongAteveningtheIndianarrivedinthecarsandIledthewaywhilehefollowedmethreequartersofamiletomyfriendshousewiththecanoeonhisheadIdidnotknowtheexactroutemyselfbutsteeredbythelayofthelandasIdoin Boston and I tried to enter into conversation with him but as he waspuffing under the weight of his canoe not having the usual apparatus forcarryingitbutaboveallwasanIndianImightaswellhavebeenthumpingon the bottom of his birch thewhile In answer to the various observationswhich I made by way of breaking the ice he only grunted vaguely frombeneathhiscanoeonceortwicesothatIknewhewasthereEarly the nextmorning (July 23) the stage called for us the Indian havingbreakfastedwithusandalreadyplacedthebaggageinthecanoetoseehowitwouldgoMycompanionandIhadeachalargeknapsackasfullasitwouldhold andwehad two large india-rubber bagswhich held our provision andutensilsAsfortheIndianallthebaggagehehadbesidehisaxeandgunwasablanketwhichhebroughtlooseinhishandHoweverhehadlaidinastoreof tobaccoandanewpipefor theexcursionThecanoewassecurely lasheddiagonally across the top of the stage with bits of carpet tucked under theedgetopreventitschafingTheveryaccommodatingdriverappearedasmuchaccustomedtocarryingcanoesinthiswayasbandboxesAttheBangorHousewetookinfourmenboundonahuntingexcursiononeof the men going as cook They had a dog a middling-sized brindled curwhichranbythesideofthestagehismastershowinghisheadandwhistlingfrom time to time but after we had gone about three miles the dog wassuddenlymissing and two of the partywent back for himwhile the stagewhichwasfullofpassengerswaitedIsuggestedthathehadtakenthebacktrack for theBangorHouseAt length oneman came backwhile the otherkeptonThiswholepartyofhuntersdeclaredtheirintentiontostoptillthedogwasfoundbut theveryobligingdriverwasready towaitaspell longerHewasevidentlyunwillingtolosesomanypassengerswhowouldhavetakenaprivate conveyance or perhaps the other line of stages the next day Suchprogressdidwemakewithajourneyofoversixtymilestobeaccomplished

thatdayandarain-stormjustsettinginWediscussedthesubjectofdogsandtheirinstinctstillitwasthreadbarewhilewewaitedthereandthesceneryofthesuburbsofBangor is stilldistinctly impressedonmymemoryAfter fullhalfanhour theman returned leading thedogbya ropeHehadovertakenhimjustashewasenteringtheBangorHouseHewasthentiedonthetopofthestagebutbeingwetandcoldseveraltimesinthecourseofthejourneyhejumpedoffandIsawhimdanglingbyhisneckThisdogwasdependedontostopbearswithHehadalreadystoppedonesomewhere inNewHampshireandIcantestifythathestoppedastageinMaineThispartyoffourprobablypaidnothingfor thedogsridenorforhisrunwhileourpartyof threepaidtwodollarsmdashandwerechargedfourmdashforthelightcanoewhichlaystillonthetopItsoonbegantorainandgrewmoreandmorestormyas thedayadvancedThiswasthethirdtimethatIhadpassedoverthisrouteanditrainedsteadilyeachtimealldayWeaccordinglysawbutlittleofthecountryThestagewascrowdedall theway and I attended themore tomy fellow-travelers If youhadlookedinsidethiscoachyouwouldhavethoughtthatwewerepreparedtorunthegauntletofabandofrobbersfortherewerefourorfivegunsonthefront seat the Indians included andoneor twoon thebackone eachmanholding his darling in his arms One had a gun which carried twelve to apound It appeared that this party of hunters was going our way butmuchfarthermdashdown theAllegashandSt Johnand thenceupsomeotherstreamandacrosstotheRestigoucheandtheBayofChaleurtobegonesixweeksTheyhadcanoesaxesandsuppliesdepositedsomedistancealongtherouteTheycarriedflourandweretohavenewbreadmadeeverydayTheirleaderwasahandsomemanaboutthirtyyearsoldofgoodheightbutnotapparentlyrobust of gentlemanly address and faultless toilet such a one as youmightexpecttomeetonBroadwayInfactinthepopularsenseofthewordhewasthemost gentlemanly appearingman in the stage or that we saw on theroadHehadafairwhitecomplexionasifhehadalwayslivedintheshadeandan intellectual faceandwithhisquietmannersmighthavepassedforadivinitystudentwhohadseensomethingoftheworldIwassurprisedtofindontalkingwithhiminthecourseofthedaysjourneythathewasahunteratallmdashforhisgunwasnotmuchexposedmdashandyetmore to find thathewasprobablythechiefwhitehunterofMaineandwasknownallalongtheroadHehadalsohuntedinsomeoftheStatesfarthersouthandwestIafterwardsheardhim spokenof asonewhocould endure agreat deal of exposure andfatiguewithoutshowingtheeffectof itandhecouldnotonlyusegunsbutmake them being himself a gunsmith In the spring he had saved a stage-driverandtwopassengersfromdrowninginthebackwaterofthePiscataquisinFoxcroftonthisroadhavingswumashoreinthefreezingwaterandmadearaft and got them offmdashthough the horses were drownedmdashat great risk to

himselfwhile the only othermanwho could swimwithdrew to the nearesthouse toprevent freezingHecouldnowrideover this road fornothingHeknewourmanandremarkedthatwehadagoodIndianthereagoodhunteradding that hewas said to beworth $6000The Indian also knewhim andsaidtomethegreathunterTheformertoldmethathepracticedakindofstill-huntingneworuncommonin those parts that the caribou for instance fed round and round the samemeadowreturningonthesamepathandhelayinwaitforthemThe Indian sat on the front seat saying nothing to anybody with a stolidexpression of face as if barely awake to what was going on Again I wasstruckbythepeculiarvaguenessofhisreplieswhenaddressedinthestageoratthetavernsHereallyneversaidanythingonsuchoccasionsHewasmerelystirred up like a wild beast and passively muttered some insignificantresponseHisanswerinsuchcaseswasnevertheconsequenceofapositivementalenergybutvagueasapuffofsmokesuggestingnoresponsibilityandifyouconsideredityouwouldfindthatyouhadgotnothingoutofhimThiswasinsteadoftheconventionalpalaverandsmartnessofthewhitemanandequally profitable Most get no more than this out of the Indian andpronouncehim stolid accordingly Iwas surprised to seewhat a foolish andimpertinentstyleaMainemanapassengerusedinaddressinghimas ifhewereachildwhichonlymadehiseyesglistenalittleAtipsyCanadianaskedhimatataverninadrawlingtoneifhesmokedtowhichheansweredwithan indefinite Yes Wontyou lendmeyourpipea littlewhileasked theotherHe replied looking straight by themans headwith a face singularlyvacanttoallneighboringinterestsMegotnopipeyetIhadseenhimputanewonewithasupplyoftobaccointohispocketthatmorningOur little canoe so neat and strong drew a favorable criticism from all thewiseacresamongthetavernloungersalongtheroadBytheroadsideclosetothewheelsInoticedasplendidgreatpurplefringedorchiswithaspikeasbigasanepilobiumwhich Iwould fainhavestopped the stage topluckbutasthishadneverbeenknowntostopabearlikethecuronthestagethedriverwouldprobablyhavethoughtitawasteoftimeWhenwe reached the lake about half past eight in the evening itwas stillsteadily raining andharder thanbefore and in that fresh cool atmospherethehylodeswerepeepingandthetoadsringingaboutthelakeuniversallyasin the springwithus Itwasas if the seasonhad revolvedbackward twoorthreemonthsorIhadarrivedattheabodeofperpetualspringWehadexpected togoupon the lakeatonceandafterpaddlingup twoorthreemiles to campononeof its islandsbutonaccountof the steadyandincreasingrainwedecidedtogotooneof thetavernsfor thenight thoughformyownpartIshouldhavepreferredtocampout

About four oclock the nextmorning (July 24) though it was quite cloudyaccompaniedbythelandlordtothewatersedgeinthetwilightwelaunchedourcanoefromarockontheMooseheadLakeWhenIwastherefouryearsbeforewehadarathersmallcanoeforthreepersonsandIhadthoughtthatthistimeIwouldgetalargeronebutthepresentonewasevensmallerthanthatItwas18frac14feetlongby2feet6frac12incheswideinthemiddleandonefootdeepwithinsoIfoundbymeasurementandIjudgedthatitwouldweighnotfar from eighty pounds The Indian had recently made it himself and itssmallnesswas partly compensated for by its newness aswell as stanchnessandsolidityitbeingmadeofverythickbarkandribsOurbaggageweighedabout 166pounds so that the canoe carried about 600pounds in all or theweightoffourmenTheprincipalpartofthebaggagewasasusualplacedinthemiddleofthebroadestpartwhilewestowedourselvesinthechinksandcrannies that were left before and behind it where there was no room toextendourlegstheloosearticlesbeingtuckedintotheendsThecanoewasthusascloselypackedasamarket-basketandmightpossiblyhavebeenupsetwithoutspillinganyofitscontentsTheIndiansatonacross-barinthesternbutwe flaton thebottomwitha splintorchipbehindourbacks toprotectthemfromthecross-barandoneofuscommonlypaddledwiththeIndianHeforesaw that we should not want a pole till we reached the UmbazookskusRiveritbeingeitherdeadwaterordown-streamsofarandhewaspreparedtomakeasailofhisblanketinthebowsifthewindshouldbefairbutweneveruseditIthadrainedmoreorlessthefourpreviousdayssothatwethoughtwemightcountonsomefairweatherThewindwasatfirstsouthwesterlyPaddlingalongtheeasternsideofthelakeinthestillofthemorningwesoonsaw a few sheldrakes which the Indian called Shecorways and somepeetweetsNaramekechuson therockyshorewealsosawandheard loonsMedawislawhichhe saidwas a signofwind Itwas inspiriting tohear theregulardipof thepaddlesas if theywereourfinsorflippersandtorealizethatwewereat length fairlyembarkedWewhohad felt strangelyas stage-passengersandtavern-lodgersweresuddenlynaturalizedthereandpresentedwiththefreedomofthelakesandthewoodsHavingpassedthesmallrockyisles within two or three miles of the foot of the lake we had a shortconsultation respectingour course and inclined to thewestern shore for thesakeof its leeforotherwise if thewindshouldrise itwouldbeimpossibleforustoreachMountKineowhichisaboutmidwayupthelakeontheeastsidebutatitsnarrowestpartwhereprobablywecouldrecrossifwetookthewesternsideThewindisthechiefobstacletocrossingthelakesespeciallyinso small a canoeThe Indian remarked several times that he did not like tocrossthelakesinlittlumcanoebutneverthelessjustaswesayitmadenooddstohimHesometimestookastraightcourseupthemiddleofthelake

betweenSugarandDeerislandswhentherewasnowindMeasured on themapMoosehead Lake is twelvemileswide at thewidestplaceandthirtymileslonginadirectlinebutlongerasitliesThecaptainofthesteamercalled it thirty-eightmilesashesteeredWeshouldprobablygoaboutfortyTheIndiansaidthatitwascalledMspamebecauselargewaterSquawMountainrosedarklyonourleftneartheoutletoftheKennebecandwhattheIndiancalledSpencerBayMountainontheeastandalreadywesawMountKineobeforeusinthenorthPaddling near the shore we frequently heard the pe-pe of the olive-sidedflycatcheralsothewoodpeweeandthekingfisherthusearlyinthemorningTheIndianremindingusthathecouldnotworkwithouteatingwestoppedtobreakfast on themain shore southwest of Deer Island at a spot where theMimulusringensgrewabundantlyWetookoutourbagsandtheIndianmadea fire under a very large bleached log usingwhite pinebark from a stumpthoughhesaid thathemlockwasbetterandkindlingwithcanoebirchbarkOurtablewasa largepieceoffreshlypeeledbirchbark laidwrongsideupandourbreakfastconsistedofhard-breadfriedporkandstrongcoffeewellsweetenedinwhichwedidnotmissthemilkWhileweweregettingbreakfastabroodoftwelveblackdippershalfgrowncame paddling by within three or four rods not at all alarmed and theyloitered about as long as we stayed now huddled close together within acircle of eighteen inches in diameter now moving off in a long line verycunninglyYettheyboreacertainproportiontothegreatMooseheadLakeonwhosebosomtheyfloatedandIfeltasiftheywereunderitsprotectionLookingnorthwardfromthisplaceitappearedasifwewereenteringalargebayandwedidnotknowwhetherweshouldbeobligedtodivergefromourcourse and keep outside a point which we saw or should find a passagebetweenthisandthemainlandIconsultedmymapandusedmyglassandtheIndiandidthesamebutwecouldnotfindourplaceexactlyonthemapnorcouldwedetectanybreakintheshoreWhenIaskedtheIndianthewayheansweredIdontknowwhichIthoughtremarkablesincehehadsaidthathewasfamiliarwiththelakebut itappearedthathehadneverbeenupthisside Itwasmistydog-dayweatherandwehadalreadypenetratedasmallerbayofthesamekindandknockedthebottomoutofitthoughwehadbeenobligedtopassoverasmallbarbetweenanislandandtheshorewheretherewasbutjustbreadthanddepthenoughtofloatthecanoeandtheIndianhadobservedVeryeasymakumbridgeherebutnowitseemedthatifweheldon we should be fairly embayed Presently however though we had notstirredthemistliftedsomewhatandrevealedabreakintheshorenorthwardshowing that thepointwasaportionofDeer Islandand thatourcourse laywestwardofitWhereithadseemedacontinuousshoreeventhroughaglass

oneportionwasnowseenbythenakedeyetobemuchmoredistantthantheotherwhichoverlappeditmerelybythegreater thicknessof themistwhichstillrestedonitwhilethenearerorislandportionwascomparativelybareandgreen The line of separationwas very distinct and the Indian immediatelyremarked I guess you and I go theremdashI guess theres room formy canoethere This was his common expression instead of saying we He neveraddressedusbyournamesthoughcurioustoknowhowtheywerespelledandwhat they meant while we called him Polis He had already guessed veryaccuratelyatouragesandsaidthathewasforty-eightAfterbreakfastIemptiedthemeltedporkthatwasleft intothelakemakingwhatsailorscallaslickandwatchingtoseehowmuchitspreadoverandsmoothed the agitated surface The Indian looked at it a moment and saidThatmakehardpaddlumthroholdemcanoeSosayoldtimesWehastilyreloadedputtingthedisheslooseinthebowsthattheymightbeathand when wanted and set out again The western shore near which wepaddled along rose gently to a considerable height and was everywheredenselycoveredwiththeforestinwhichwasalargeproportionofhardwoodtoenlivenandrelievethefirandspruceThe Indian said that the usnea lichenwhichwe sawhanging from the treeswascalledchorchorqueWeaskedhimthenamesofseveralsmallbirdswhichwe heard this morning The wood thrush which was quite common andwhose note he imitated he said was called Adelungquamooktum butsometimeshecouldnot tell thenameof somesmallbirdwhich Iheardandknew but he said I tell all the birds about heremdashthis country cant telllittlumnoisebutIseeemthenIcantellIobservedthatIshouldliketogotoschooltohimtolearnhislanguagelivingontheIndianislandthewhilecouldnotthatbedoneOhyerherepliedgoodmanydosoIaskedhowlonghethought itwouldtakeHesaidoneweekItoldhimthatinthisvoyageIwouldtellhimallIknewandheshouldtellmeallheknewtowhichhereadilyagreedThe birds sang quite as in our woodsmdashthe red-eye redstart veery woodpeweeetcbutwesawnobluebirdsinallourjourneyandseveraltoldmeinBangor that they had not the bluebird there Mount Kineo which wasgenerallyvisiblethoughoccasionallyconcealedbyislandsorthemainlandinfronthadalevelbarofcloudconcealingitssummitandallthemountain-topsabout the lake were cut off at the same height Ducks of various kindsmdashsheldrake summerducks etcmdashwerequite commonand ranover thewaterbeforeusasfastasahorsetrotsThustheyweresoonoutofsightTheIndianaskedthemeaningofrealityasnearasIcouldmakeoutthewordwhich he said one of us had used also of interrent that is intelligent I

observed that he could rarely sound the letter r but used l as also r for lsometimes as load for road pickelel for pickerel Soogle Island for SugarIslandlockforrocketcYethetrilledtherprettywellaftermeHegenerallyaddedthesyllableumtohiswordswhenhecouldmdashaspaddlumetc I have once heard a Chippeway lecture whomade his audience laughunintentionally by puttingm after the word too which word he brought incontinuallyandunnecessarilyaccentingandprolongingthissoundintom-ahsonorouslyasifitwerenecessarytobringinsomuchofhisvernacularasarelieftohisorgansacompensationfortwistinghisjawsaboutandputtinghistongueintoeverycornerofhismouthashecomplainedthathewasobligedtodowhenhespokeEnglishTherewassomuchoftheIndianaccentresoundingthroughhisEnglishsomuchofthebow-arrowtangasmyneighborcallsitand Ihavenodoubt thatwordseemed tohim thebestpronounced Itwasawild and refreshing sound like that of the wind among the pines or theboomingofthesurfontheshoreI asked him the meaning of the word Musketicook the Indian name ofConcord River He pronounced it Muskeacuteeticook emphasizing the secondsyllable with a peculiar guttural sound and said that it meant deadwaterwhichitisandinthisdefinitionheagreedexactlywiththeStFrancisIndianwithwhomItalkedin1853OnapointonthemainlandsomemilessouthwestofSand-barIslandwherewe landed to stretchour legsand lookat thevegetationgoing inlanda fewstepsIdiscoveredafirestillglowingbeneathitsasheswheresomebodyhadbreakfastedandabedoftwigspreparedforthefollowingnightSoIknewnotonlythattheyhadjustleftbutthattheydesignedtoreturnandbythebreadthof the bed that therewasmore than one in the partyYoumight have gonewithin six feet of these signs without seeing them There grew the beakedhazeltheonlyhazelwhichIsawonthisjourneythediervillaruesevenfeethighwhichwasveryabundantonall the lakeand river shores andCornusstoloniferaorredosierwhosebarktheIndiansaidwasgoodtosmokeandwas calledmaquoxigill tobacco beforewhite people came to this countryIndiantobaccoTheIndianwasalwaysverycareful inapproaching theshore lestheshouldinjurehiscanoeontherockslettingitswingroundslowlysidewiseandwasstillmoreparticularthatweshouldnotstepintoitonshorenortillitfloatedfreeandthenshouldstepgentlylestweshouldopenitsseamsormakeaholeinthebottomHesaidthathewouldtelluswhentojumpSoonafter leaving this pointwepassed theKennebec or outlet of the lakeand heard the falls at the dam there for evenMooseheadLake is dammedAfterpassingDeerIslandwesawthelittlesteamerfromGreenvillefareastin themiddleof the lakeandsheappearednearlystationarySometimeswe

couldhardlytellherfromanislandwhichhadafewtreesonitHerewewereexposedtothewindfromoverthewholebreadthofthelakeandranalittleriskofbeingswampedWhile Ihadmyeye fixedon thespotwherea largefishhadleapedwetookinagallonortwoofwaterwhichfilledmylapbutwesoonreachedtheshoreandtookthecanoeoverthebaratSand-barIslandafewfeetwideonlyandsosavedaconsiderabledistanceOnelandedfirstatamoreshelteredplaceandwalking roundcaught thecanoeby theprow topreventitbeinginjuredagainsttheshoreAgain we crossed a broad bay opposite the mouth ofMoose River beforereaching the narrow strait atMountKineomadewhat the voyageurs call atraverse and found thewaterquite roughAvery littlewindon thesebroadlakesraisesaseawhichwillswampacanoeLookingofffromtheshorethesurfacemayappeartobeverylittleagitatedalmostsmoothamiledistantorifyouseeafewwhitecreststheyappearnearlylevelwiththerestofthelakebutwhenyougetoutsofaryoumayfindquiteasearunninganderelongbeforeyouthinkofitawavewillgentlycreepupthesideofthecanoeandfillyour lap like a monster deliberately covering you with its slime before itswallowsyouoritwillstrikethecanoeviolentlyandbreakintoitThesamethingmayhappenwhenthewindrisessuddenlythoughitwereperfectlycalmandsmooththereafewminutesbeforesothatnothingcansaveyouunlessyoucanswimashoreforitisimpossibletogetintoacanoeagainwhenitisupset Since you sit flat on the bottom though the danger should not beimminentalittlewaterisagreatinconveniencenottomentionthewettingofyour provisionsWe rarely crossed even a bay directly frompoint to pointwhentherewaswindbutmadeaslightcurvecorrespondingsomewhattotheshorethatwemightthesoonerreachitifthewindincreasedWhen thewind isaftandnot toostrong the IndianmakesaspritsailofhisblanketHethuseasilyskimsoverthewholelengthofthislakeinadayTheIndianpaddledononesideandoneofusontheothertokeepthecanoesteadyandwhenhewantedtochangehandshewouldsayTothersideHeassertedinanswertoourquestionsthathehadneverupsetacanoehimselfthoughhemayhavebeenupsetbyothersThinkofour littleeggshellofacanoe tossingacross thatgreat lake amereblackspecktotheeaglesoaringaboveitMycompanion trailedfor troutaswepaddledalongbut theIndianwarninghimthatabigfishmightupsetusfortherearesomeverylargeonesthereheagreed to pass the line quickly to him in the stern if he had a biteBesidestroutIheardofcuskwhitefishetcasfoundinthislakeWhile wewere crossing this bay whereMount Kineo rose dark before uswithin two or three miles the Indian repeated the tradition respecting this

mountainshavingancientlybeenacowmoosemdashhowamightyIndianhunterwhosenameIforgetsucceededinkillingthisqueenofthemoosetribewithgreat difficulty while her calf was killed somewhere among the islands inPenobscotBayandtohiseyesthismountainhadstilltheformofthemooseina recliningposture itsprecipitoussidepresenting theoutlineofherheadHe told this at some length though it did not amount to much and withapparent good faith and asked us howwe supposed the hunter could havekilledsuchamightymooseasthatmdashhowwecoulddoitWhereuponaman-of-war to firebroadsides intoherwas suggested etcAn Indian tells suchastoryasifhethoughtitdeservedtohaveagooddealsaidaboutitonlyhehasnotgot it to say and sohemakesup for thedeficiencybyadrawling tonelong-windednessandadumbwonderwhichhehopeswillbecontagiousWe approached the land again through pretty roughwater and then steereddirectlyacrossthelakeatitsnarrowestparttotheeasternsideandweresoonpartlyundertheleeofthemountainaboutamilenorthoftheKineoHousehavingpaddledabouttwentymilesItwasnowaboutnoonWe designed to stop there that afternoon and night and spent half an hourlookingalongtheshorenorthwardforasuitableplacetocampWetookoutallourbaggageatoneplaceinvainitbeingtoorockyandunevenandwhileengagedinthissearchwemadeourfirstacquaintancewiththemoose-flyAtlength half amile farther north by going half a dozen rods into the densespruceandfirwoodonthesideofthemountainalmostasdarkasacellarwefoundaplacesufficientlyclearandleveltoliedownonaftercuttingawayafewbushesWerequiredaspaceonlysevenfeetbysix forourbed the firebeingfourorfivefeetinfrontthoughitmadenooddshowroughthehearthwasbut itwasnotalwayseasy to find this in thosewoodsTheIndianfirstclearedapathtoitfromtheshorewithhisaxeandwethencarriedupallourbaggage pitched our tent andmade our bed in order to be ready for foulweather which then threatened us and for the night He gathered a largearmfuloffirtwigsbreakingthemoffwhichhesaidwerethebestforourbedpartly I thought because they were the largest and could be most rapidlycollectedIthadbeenrainingmoreorlessforfourorfivedaysandthewoodwasevendamper thanusualbuthegotdrybarkfor thefire fromtheundersideofadeadleaninghemlockwhichhesaidhecouldalwaysdoThisnoonhismindwasoccupiedwitha lawquestionandI referredhimtomycompanionwhowasa lawyer Itappeared thathehadbeenbuying landlately(Ithinkitwasahundredacres)buttherewasprobablyanincumbrancetoitsomebodyelseclaimingtohaveboughtsomegrassonitforthisyearHewished to know towhom the grass belonged andwas told that if the othermancouldprovethatheboughtthegrassbeforehePolisboughtthelandtheformer could take it whether the latter knew it or not To which he only

answered StrangeHewent over this several times fairly sat down to itwithhisbacktoatreeasifhemeanttoconfineustothistopichenceforthbutashemadenoheadwayonlyreachedthejumping-offplaceofhiswonderatwhitemensinstitutionsaftereachexplanationweletthesubjectdieHe said that he had fifty acres of grass potatoes etc somewhere aboveOldtownbesidessomeabouthishousethathehiredagooddealofhisworkhoeing etc andpreferredwhitemen to Indiansbecause theykeep steadyandknowhowAfterdinnerwereturnedsouthwardalongtheshoreinthecanoeonaccountof the difficulty of climbing over the rocks and fallen trees and began toascend the mountain along the edge of the precipice But a smart showercoming up just then the Indian crept under his canoe while we beingprotectedbyourrubbercoatsproceededtobotanizeSowesenthimbacktothecampforshelteragreeingthatheshouldcomethereforuswithhiscanoetoward night It had rained a little in the forenoon andwe trusted that thiswouldbetheclearing-upshowerwhichitprovedbutourfeetandlegswerethoroughlywet by the bushes The clouds breaking away a littlewe had aglorious wild view as we ascended of the broad lake with its fluctuatingsurface and numerous forest-clad islands extending beyond our sight bothnorthandsouthandtheboundlessforestundulatingawayfromitsshoresonevery side as densely packed as a rye-field and enveloping namelessmountainsinsuccessionbutabovealllookingwestwardoveralargeislandwasvisibleaverydistantpartofthelakethoughwedidnotthensuspectittobeMooseheadmdashatfirstamerebrokenwhitelineseenthroughthetopsoftheislandtreeslikehay-capsbutspreadingtoalakewhenwegothigherBeyondthis we saw what appears to be called Bald Mountain on the map sometwenty-fivemilesdistantnear thesourcesof thePenobscot Itwasaperfectlakeof thewoodsBut thiswasonlya transientgleam for the rainwasnotquiteoverLooking southward the heavens were completely overcast the mountainscapped with clouds and the lake generally wore a dark and stormyappearancebutfromitssurfacejustnorthofSugarIslandsixoreightmilesdistant therewas reflectedupward tous through themisty air abrightbluetinge from thedistantunseenskyofanother latitudebeyondTheyprobablyhad a clear sky then atGreenville the south endof the lakeStandingon amountain in themidst of a lakewherewouldyou look for the first signofapproachingfairweatherNotintotheheavensitseemsbutintothelakeAgainwemistookalittlerockyisletseenthroughthedriskwithsometallerbaretrunksorstumpsonitforthesteamerwithitssmoke-pipesbutasithadnotchangeditspositionafterhalfanhourwewereundeceivedSomuchdothe works ofman resemble the works of nature Amoosemightmistake a

steamer for a floating isle and not be scared till he heard its puffing or itswhistleIf I wished to see a mountain or other scenery under the most favorableauspicesIwouldgotoitinfoulweathersoastobetherewhenitclearedupwearetheninthemostsuitablemoodandnatureismostfreshandinspiringThereisnoserenitysofairasthatwhichisjustestablishedinatearfuleyeJackson in his Report on the Geology of Maine in 1838 says of thismountainHornstonewhichwillanswerforflintsoccursinvariouspartsoftheStatewheretrap-rockshaveacteduponsiliciousslateThelargestmassofthisstoneknownintheworldisMountKineouponMooseheadLakewhichappearstobeentirelycomposedofitandrisessevenhundredfeetabovethelakelevelThisvarietyofhornstoneIhaveseenineverypartofNewEnglandintheformofIndianarrowheadshatchetschiselsetcwhichwereprobablyobtained from thismountain by the aboriginal inhabitants of the country Ihavemyself foundhundredsof arrowheadsmadeof the samematerial It isgenerally slate-coloredwithwhite specksbecomingauniformwhitewhereexposed to the light and air and it breaks with a conchoidal fractureproducingaraggedcuttingedgeInoticedsomeconchoidalhollowsmorethanafootindiameterIpickedupasmallthinpiecewhichhadsosharpanedgethatIuseditasadullknifeandtoseewhatIcoulddofairlycutoffanaspenoneinchthickwithitbybendingitandmakingmanycutsthoughIcutmyfingersbadlywiththebackofitinthemeanwhileFromthesummitoftheprecipicewhichformsthesouthernandeasternsidesofthismountainpeninsulaandisitsmostremarkablefeaturebeingdescribedasfiveorsixhundredfeethighwelookedandprobablymighthavejumpeddownto thewateror to theseeminglydwarfish treeson thenarrowneckofland which connects it with the main It is a dangerous place to try thesteadiness of your nerves Hodge says that these cliffs descendperpendicularlyninetyfeetbelowthesurfaceofthewaterThe plants which chiefly attracted our attention on this mountain were themountaincinquefoil(Potentillatridentata)abundantandinbloomstillat theverybase by thewaterside though it is usually confined to the summits ofmountainsinourlatitudeverybeautifulharebellsoverhangingtheprecipicebear-berry the Canada blueberry (Vaccinium Canadense) similar to the VPennsylvanicum our earliest one but entire-leaved andwith a downy stemand leaf (I have not seen it inMassachusetts) Diervilla trifidaMicrostylisophioglossoides an orchidaceous plant new to uswild holly (NemopanthesCanadensis)thegreatround-leavedorchis(Platantheraorbiculata)notlonginbloomSpiranthescernuaat the topbunchberry reddeningasweascendedgreenatthebaseofthemountainredatthetopandthesmallfernWoodsiailvensisgrowingintuftsnowinfruitIhavealsoreceivedLiparisliliifoliaor

tway-bladefromthisspotHavingexploredthewondersofthemountainandtheweather being now entirely cleared upwe commenced the descentWemet the Indian puffing and panting about one third of the way up butthinkingthathemustbenearthetopandsayingthatittookhisbreathawayIthought that superstition had something to do with his fatigue Perhaps hebelievedthathewasclimbingoverthebackofatremendousmooseHesaidthathehadneverascendedKineoOnreachingthecanoewefoundthathehadcaughtalaketroutweighingaboutthreepoundsatthedepthoftwenty-fiveorthirtyfeetwhilewewereonthemountainWhenwegottothecampthecanoewastakenoutandturnedoverandaloglaidacrossittopreventitsbeingblownawayTheIndiancutsomelargelogsof dampand rottenhardwood to smoulder andkeep fire through the nightThe trout was fried for supper Our tent was of thin cotton cloth and quitesmall formingwith thegrounda triangularprismclosedat the rearendsixfeet long seven wide and four high so that we could barely sit up in themiddle It required two forked stakes a smooth ridge-pole and a dozen ormore pins to pitch it It kept off dew and wind and an ordinary rain andanswered our purposewell enoughWe reclinedwithin it till bedtime eachwithhisbaggageathisheadorelsesatabout thefirehavinghungourwetclothesonapolebeforethefireforthenightAswe sat there just before night lookingout through the duskywood theIndianheardanoisewhichhesaidwasmadebyasnakeHeimitateditatmyrequest making a low whistling notemdashpheetmdashpheetmdashtwo or three timesrepeatedsomewhatlikethepeepofthehylodesbutnotsoloudInanswertomyinquirieshesaidthathehadneverseenthemwhilemakingitbutgoingtothespothefinds thesnakeThishesaidonanotheroccasionwasasignofrainWhenIhadselectedthisplaceforourcamphehadremarkedthatthereweresnakes theremdashhesawthemBut theywontdoanyhurtIsaidOhnoheansweredjustasyousayitmakesnodifferencetomeHelayontherightsideofthetentbecauseashesaidhewaspartlydeafinone ear and he wanted to lie with his good ear up As we lay there heinquiredifIeverheardIndiansingIrepliedthatIhadnotoftenandaskedhimifhewouldnotfavoruswithasongHereadilyassentedandlyingonhis back with his blanket wrapped around him he commenced a slowsomewhatnasalyetmusicalchantinhisownlanguagewhichprobablywastaughthis tribe longagoby theCatholicmissionariesHe translated it toussentence by sentence afterwardwishing to see ifwe could remember it Itproved tobe avery simple religious exerciseorhymn theburdenofwhichwasthattherewasonlyoneGodwhoruledalltheworldThiswashammered(or sung)outvery thin so that somestanzaswell-nighmeantnothingatallmerelykeepinguptheideaHethensaidthathewouldsingusaLatinsong

butwedidnotdetectanyLatinonlyoneortwoGreekwordsinitmdashtherestmayhavebeenLatinwiththeIndianpronunciationHissingingcarriedmebacktotheperiodofthediscoveryofAmericatoSanSalvadorandtheIncaswhenEuropeansfirstencounteredthesimplefaithofthe IndianTherewas indeed abeautiful simplicityabout itnothingof thedarkandsavageonlythemildandinfantileThesentimentsofhumilityandreverencechieflywereexpressedItwasadenseanddampspruceandfirwoodinwhichwelayandexceptforourfireperfectlydarkandwhenIawokeinthenightIeitherheardanowlfromdeeper in theforestbehindusora loonfromadistanceover the lakeGettingupsome timeaftermidnight tocollect thescatteredbrands togetherwhilemycompanionsweresoundasleepIobservedpartlyinthefirewhichhad ceased to blaze a perfectly regular elliptical ring of light about fiveinchesinitsshortestdiametersixorseveninitslongerandfromoneeighthtoonequarterofaninchwideItwasfullyasbrightasthefirebutnotreddishorscarletlikeacoalbutawhiteandslumberinglightliketheglow-wormsIcouldtellitfromthefireonlybyitswhitenessIsawatoncethatitmustbephosphorescentwoodwhichIhadsooftenheardofbutneverchancedtoseePuttingmyfingeronitwithalittlehesitationIfoundthatitwasapieceofdeadmoose-wood(Acerstriatum)which theIndianhadcutoff inaslantingdirection the evening before Using my knife I discovered that the lightproceededfromthatportionofthesap-woodimmediatelyunderthebarkandthuspresentedaregularringattheendwhichindeedappearedraisedabovethe levelof thewoodandwhenIparedoff thebarkandcut into thesap itwasallaglowalongthelogIwassurprisedtofindthewoodquitehardandapparentlysoundthoughprobablydecayhadcommencedinthesapandIcutoutsomelittle triangularchipsandplacingtheminthehollowofmyhandcarriedthemintothecampwakedmycompanionandshowedthemtohimThey lit up the inside of my hand revealing the lines and wrinkles andappearingexactly likecoalsof fire raised toawhiteheatand I sawatoncehow probably the Indian jugglers had imposed on their people and ontravelerspretendingtoholdcoalsoffireintheirmouthsIalsonoticedthatpartofadecayedstumpwithinfourorfivefeetofthefirean inchwide and six inches long soft and shakingwood shonewith equalbrightnessIneglectedtoascertainwhetherourfirehadanythingtodowiththisbutthepreviousdaysrainandlong-continuedwetweatherundoubtedlyhadIwasexceedinglyinterestedbythisphenomenonandalreadyfeltpaidformyjourney It could hardly have thrilled me more if it had taken the form oflettersorofthehumanfaceIfIhadmetwiththisringoflightwhilegropingin this forest alone away from any fire I should have been still more

surprisedIlittlethoughtthattherewassuchalightshininginthedarknessofthewildernessformeThenextdaytheIndiantoldmetheirnameforthislightmdashartoosoqumdashandonmyinquiringconcerningthewill-o-the-wispandthelikephenomenahesaidthathisfolkssometimessawfirespassingalongatvariousheightsevenashighasthetreesandmakinganoiseIwaspreparedafterthistohearofthemoststartlingandunimaginedphenomenawitnessedbyhisfolkstheyareabroad at all hours and seasons in scenes so unfrequented by white menNaturemusthavemadeathousandrevelationstothemwhicharestillsecretstousI did not regret my not having seen this before since I now saw it undercircumstancessofavorableIwasinjusttheframeofmindtoseesomethingwonderful and this was a phenomenon adequate to my circumstances andexpectation and it putme on the alert to seemore like it I exulted like apagansuckledinacreedthathadneverbeenwornatallbutwasbran-newandadequatetotheoccasionIletscienceslideandrejoicedinthatlightasifithadbeenafellowcreatureIsawthatitwasexcellentandwasverygladtoknowthatitwassocheapAscientificexplanationasitiscalledwouldhavebeenaltogetheroutofplace thereThat is forpaledaylightSciencewith itsretortswouldhaveputmetosleepitwastheopportunitytobeignorantthatIimprovedItsuggestedtomethat therewassomethingtobeseenifonehadeyes Itmade a believer ofmemore than before I believed that thewoodswerenottenantlessbutchoke-fullofhonestspiritsasgoodasmyselfanydaymdashnotanemptychamber inwhichchemistrywas left toworkalonebutaninhabited housemdashand for a few moments I enjoyed fellowship with themYourso-calledwisemangoestryingtopersuadehimselfthatthereisnoentitytherebuthimselfandhistrapsbutitisagreatdealeasiertobelievethetruthItsuggestedtoothatthesameexperiencealwaysgivesbirthtothesamesortofbeliefor religionOne revelationhasbeenmade to the Indiananother tothewhitemanIhavemuchtolearnoftheIndiannothingofthemissionaryIamnotsurebutallthatwouldtemptmetoteachtheIndianmyreligionwouldbehispromisetoteachmehisLongenoughIhadheardofirrelevantthingsnowat length Iwasglad tomakeacquaintancewith the light thatdwells inrottenwoodWhereisallyourknowledgegonetoItevaporatescompletelyforithasnodepthIkeptthoselittlechipsandwetthemagainthenextnightbuttheyemittednolightSATURDAYJuly25At breakfast this Saturday morning the Indian evidently curious to knowwhatwouldbeexpectedofhimthenextdaywhetherweshouldgoalongornot asked me how I spent the Sunday when at home I told him that I

commonlysatinmychamberreadingetcintheforenoonandwenttowalkin theafternoonAtwhichheshookhisheadandsaidEr that isverbadHowdoyouspenditIaskedHesaidthathedidnoworkthathewenttochurch at Oldtown when he was at home in short he did as he had beentaughtbythewhitesThisledtoadiscussioninwhichIfoundmyselfintheminorityHestatedthathewasaProtestantandaskedmeifIwasIdidnotatfirstknowwhattosaybutIthoughtthatIcouldanswerwithtruththatIwasWhenwewerewashingthedishesinthelakemanyfishesapparentlychivincamecloseuptoustogettheparticlesofgreaseTheweatherseemedtobemoresettledthismorningandwesetoutearlyinorder to finish our voyage up the lake before the wind arose Soon afterstarting the Indian directed our attention to the Northeast Carry which wecouldplainlyseeaboutthirteenmilesdistantinthatdirectionasmeasuredonthemapthoughitiscalledmuchfartherThiscarryisarudewoodenrailroadrunningnorthandsouthabout twomilesperfectlystraight fromthe lake tothePenobscotthroughalowtractwithaclearingthreeorfourrodswidebutlowasitisitpassesovertheheightoflandthereThisopeningappearedasaclear bright or light point in the horizon resting on the edge of the lakewhosebreadthahaircouldhavecoveredataconsiderabledistancefromtheeye and of no appreciable height We should not have suspected it to bevisibleiftheIndianhadnotdrawnourattentiontoitItwasaremarkablekindoflighttosteerformdashdaylightseenthroughavistaintheforestmdashbutvisibleasfarasanordinarybeaconatnightWe crossed a deep and wide bay which makes eastward north of KineoleavinganislandonourleftandkeepinguptheeasternsideofthelakeThiswayorthatledtosomeTomheganorSocatarianstreamupwhichtheIndianhadhuntedandwhitherIlongedtogoThelastnamehoweverhadabogussoundtoomuchlikesectarianformeasifamissionaryhadtamperedwithitbutIknewthattheIndianswereveryliberalIthinkIshouldhaveinclinedtotheTomheganfirstWethencrossedanotherbroadbaywhichaswecouldnolongerobservetheshoreparticularlyaffordedampletimeforconversationTheIndiansaidthathe had got his money by hunting mostly high up theWest Branch of thePenobscot and toward theheadof theSt Johnhehadhunted there fromaboyandknewallaboutthatregionHisgamehadbeenbeaverotterblackcat(orfisher)sablemooseetcLoup-cervier(orCanadalynx)wereplentyyetinburntgroundsForfoodinthewoodsheusespartridgesducksdriedmoose-meathedgehogetcLoonstooweregoodonlybileemgoodHetoldusat some lengthhowhehadsuffered fromstarvationwhenamere ladbeingovertakenbywinterwhenhuntingwithtwogrownIndiansinthenorthernpartofMaineandobligedtoleavetheircanoeonaccountofice

Pointing into thebayhe said that itwas theway tovarious lakeswhichheknewOnlysolemnbear-hauntedmountainswith theirgreatwoodedslopeswerevisiblewhereasmanisnotwesupposesomeotherpower tobeMyimaginationpersonifiedtheslopesthemselvesasifbytheirverylengththeywouldwaylayyouandcompelyoutocampagainonthembeforenightSomeinvisiblegluttonwouldseemtodropfromthetreesandgnawattheheartofthesolitaryhunterwhothreadedthosewoodsandyetIwastemptedtowalkthereTheIndiansaidthathehadbeenalongthereseveraltimesI askedhimhowheguidedhimself in thewoods Oh said he I can tellgoodmanywaysWhen I pressed him further he answered Sometimes Ilookum side-hill and he glanced toward a high hill or mountain on theeasternshoregreatdifferencebetweenthenorthandsouthseewherethesunhas shonemost So treesmdashthe large limbs bend toward south Sometimes Ilookum locks (rocks) I asked what he saw on the rocks but he did notdescribeanythinginparticularansweringvaguelyinamysteriousordrawlingtoneBarelocksonlakeshoremdashgreatdifferencebetweennorthsoutheastwest sidemdashcan tell what the sun has shone on Suppose said I that Ishouldtakeyouinadarknightrightuphereintothemiddleofthewoodsahundredmilessetyoudownandturnyouroundquicklytwentytimescouldyou steer straight toOldtown Oh yer said he have done prettymuchsame thing I will tell you Some years ago I met an old white hunter atMillinocketverygoodhunterHesaidhecouldgoanywhereinthewoodsHewanted to hunt with me that day so we start We chase a moose all theforenoonroundandroundtillmiddleofafternoonwhenwekillhimThenIsaid tohim Nowyougostraight tocampDontgoroundandroundwherewevebeenbutgostraightHesaidIcantdothatIdontknowwhereIamWhereyouthinkcampIaskedHepointedsoThenI laughathimI taketheleadandgorightofftheotherwaycrossourtracksmanytimesstraightcamp How do you do that asked I Oh I cant tell you he repliedGreatdifferencebetweenmeandwhitemanIt appeared as if the sources of informationwere so various that he did notgiveadistinctconsciousattentiontoanyoneandsocouldnotreadilyrefertoanywhenquestionedabout itbuthefoundhiswayverymuchasananimaldoesPerhapswhat iscommonlycalled instinct in theanimal in thiscase ismerelyasharpenedandeducatedsenseOftenwhenanIndiansaysIdontknowinregardtotherouteheistotakehedoesnotmeanwhatawhitemanwouldbythosewordsforhisIndianinstinctmaytellhimstillasmuchasthemost confidentwhitemanknowsHedoesnot carry things inhis head norremember the route exactly like a white man but relies on himself at themomentNothavingexperiencedtheneedoftheothersortofknowledgealllabeledandarrangedhehasnotacquiredit

ThewhitehunterwithwhomItalkedinthestageknewsomeoftheresourcesof the Indian He said that he steered by the wind or by the limbs of thehemlocks which were largest on the south side also sometimes when heknew that therewas a lake near by firing his gun and listening to hear thedirectionanddistanceoftheechofromoveritThecoursewetookoverthislakeandothersafterwardwasrarelydirectbutasuccessionofcurvesfrompoint topointdigressingconsiderablyintoeachof thebaysand thiswasnotmerelyonaccountof thewind for the Indianlookingtowardthemiddleof the lakesaid itwashard togothereeasier tokeepneartheshorebecausehethusgotoveritbysuccessivereachesandsawbytheshorehowhegotalongThe following will suffice for a common experience in crossing lakes in acanoeAstheforenoonadvancedthewindincreasedThelastbaywhichwecrossed before reaching the desolate pier at theNortheastCarrywas twoorthreemilesover and thewindwas southwesterlyAftergoinga thirdof theway thewaveshadincreasedsoasoccasionally towashinto thecanoeandwe saw that it was worse and worse ahead At first we might have turnedabout but were not willing to It would have been of no use to follow thecourseoftheshorefornotonlythedistancewouldhavebeenmuchgreaterbutthewavesranstillhigherthereonaccountofthegreatersweepthewindhad At any rate it would have been dangerous now to alter our coursebecausethewaveswouldhavestruckusatanadvantageItwillnotdotomeetthematrightanglesforthentheywillwashinbothsidesbutyoumusttakethemquarteringSotheIndianstoodupinthecanoeandexertedallhisskillandstrengthforamileortwowhileIpaddledrightalonginordertogivehimmore steerage-wayFormore than amile hedidnot allowa singlewave tostrikethecanoeasitwouldbutturneditquicklyfromthissidetothatsothatitwouldalwaysbeonornearthecrestofawavewhenitbrokewhereallitsforcewasspentandwemerelysettleddownwithitAtlengthI jumpedoutontotheendofthepieragainstwhichthewavesweredashingviolently inorder to lighten the canoe and catch it at the landingwhichwas notmuchsheltered but just as I jumped we took in two or three gallons of water Iremarked to the Indian Youmanaged thatwell towhichhe replied VerfewmendothatGreatmanywaveswhenI lookoutforoneanothercomequickWhile the Indian went to get cedar bark etc to carry his canoe with wecooked the dinner on the shore at this end of the carry in the midst of asprinklingrainHe prepared his canoe for carrying in thiswiseHe took a cedar shingle orsplinteighteenincheslongandfourorfivewideroundedatoneendthatthecornersmightnotbeinthewayandtieditwithcedarbarkbytwoholesmade

midway near the edge on each side to the middle cross-bar of the canoeWhen the canoe was lifted upon his head bottom up this shingle with itsrounded end uppermost distributed theweight over his shoulders and headwhileabandofcedarbark tied to thecross-baroneachsideof theshinglepassedroundhisbreastandanotherlongeroneoutsideofthelastroundhisforeheadalsoahandoneachside-rail served tosteer thecanoeandkeep itfromrockingHethuscarrieditwithhisshouldersheadbreastforeheadandbothhandsasiftheupperpartofhisbodywereallonehandtoclaspandholdit If you know of a better way I should like to hear of it A cedar treefurnishedallthegearinthiscaseasithadthewoodworkofthecanoeOneofthe paddles rested on the cross-bars in the bows I took the canoe uponmyheadandfoundthatIcouldcarryitwitheasethoughthestrapswerenotfittedto my shoulders but I let him carry it not caring to establish a differentprecedentthoughhesaidthatifIwouldcarrythecanoehewouldtakealltherestofthebaggageexceptmycompanionsThisshingleremainedtiedtothecross-bar throughout the voyagewas always ready for the carries and alsoservedtoprotectthebackofonepassengerWewereobliged togoover this carry twiceour loadwas sogreatBut thecarrieswereanagreeablevarietyandweimprovedtheopportunitytogathertherareplantswhichwehadseenwhenwereturnedemptyhandedWe reached the Penobscot about four oclock and found there some StFrancisIndiansencampedonthebankinthesameplacewhereIcampedwithfourIndiansfouryearsbeforeTheyweremakingacanoeandasthendryingmoose-meatThemeatlookedverysuitabletomakeablackbrothatleastOurIndiansaiditwasnotgoodTheircampwascoveredwithsprucebarkTheyhadgotayoungmoosetakenintheriverafortnightbeforeconfinedinasortof cage of logs piled up cob-fashion seven or eight feet high It was quitetameabout four feethigh andcoveredwithmoose-fliesTherewasa largequantity of cornel (C stolonifera) red maple and also willow and aspenboughsstuckthroughbetweenthelogsonallsidesbuttendsoutandontheirleavesitwasbrowsingItlookedatfirstasifitwereinabowerratherthanapenOurIndiansaidthatheusedblacksprucerootstosewcanoeswithobtainingit from high lands or mountains The St Francis Indian thought thatwhitespruce rootsmightbebestBut the formersaid Nogoodbreakcant splitemalsothattheywerehardtogetdeepingroundbuttheblackwerenearthesurfaceonhigherlandaswellas tougherHesaidthat thewhitesprucewas subekoondark black skusk I told him I thought that I could make acanoebutheexpressedgreatdoubtofitatanyratehethoughtthatmyworkwouldnotbeneatthefirsttimeAnIndianatGreenvillehadtoldmethatthewinterbarkthatisbarktakenoffbeforethesapflowsinMaywasharderand

muchbetterthansummerbarkHaving reloaded we paddled down the Penobscot which as the Indianremarked and even I detected remembering how it looked before wasuncommonly full We soon after saw a splendid yellow lily (LiliumCanadense)bytheshorewhichIpluckedItwassixfeethighandhadtwelveflowers in twowhorls formingapyramid suchas Ihave seen inConcordWeafterwardsawmanymore thus tallalongthisstreamandalsostillmorenumerous on the East Branch and on the latter one which I thoughtapproached yet nearer to the Lilium superbum The Indian asked what wecalleditandsaidthattheloots(roots)weregoodforsoupthatistocookwithmeattothickenittakingtheplaceofflourTheygettheminthefallIdugsomeandfoundamassofbulbsprettydeep in theearth twoinches indiameterlookingandeventastingsomewhatlikerawgreencornontheearWhenwehadgoneaboutthreemilesdownthePenobscotwesawthroughthetree-tops a thunder-shower coming up in the west and we looked out acamping-place in good season about five oclock on thewest side not farbelow themouthofwhat JoeAitteon in 53calledLobsterStreamcomingfromLobsterPondOurpresentIndianhoweverdidnotadmitthisnamenoreven that of Matahumkeag which is on the map but called the lakeBeskabekukI will describe once for all the routine of camping at this season WegenerallytoldtheIndianthatwewouldstopatthefirstsuitableplacesothathemightbeonthelookoutforitHavingobservedaclearhardandflatbeachtolandonfreefrommudandfromstoneswhichwouldinjurethecanoeonewouldrunupthebanktoseeiftherewereopenandlevelspaceenoughforthecampbetweenthetreesorifitcouldbeeasilyclearedpreferringatthesametimeacoolplaceonaccountofinsectsSometimeswepaddledamileormorebefore findingone toourminds forwhere the shorewas suitable thebankwouldoftenbetoosteeporelsetoolowandgrassyandthereforemosquitoeyWe then took out the baggage and drewup the canoe sometimes turning itover on shore for safetyThe Indian cut a path to the spotwehad selectedwhichwasusuallywithintwoorthreerodsofthewaterandwecarriedupourbaggageOneperhapstakescanoebirchbarkalwaysathandanddeaddrywoodorbarkandkindlesafirefiveorsixfeetinfrontofwhereweintendtolieItmattersnotcommonlyonwhichsidethisisbecausethereislittleornowindinsodenseawoodatthatseasonandthenhegetsakettleofwaterfromthe river and takes out the pork bread coffee etc from their severalpackagesAnothermeanwhilehavingtheaxecutsdownthenearestdeadrockmapleorother dry hardwood collecting several large logs to last through the nightalso agreen stakewith anotchor fork to itwhich is slantedover the fire

perhapsrestingonarockorforkedstaketohangthekettleonandtwoforkedstakesandapoleforthetentThe third man pitches the tent cuts a dozen or more pins with his knifeusuallyofmoose-woodthecommonunderwoodtofastenitdownwithandthen collects an armful or two of fir twigs arbor-vitaelig spruce or hemlockwhicheverisathandandmakesthebedbeginningateitherendandlayingthe twigswrong side up in regular rows covering the stub ends of the lastrowfirsthoweverfillingthehollowsifthereareanywithcoarsermaterialWrangel says that his guides in Siberia first strewed a quantity of drybrushwoodonthegroundandthencedartwigsonthatCommonlybythetimethebedismadeorwithinfifteenortwentyminutesthewaterboilstheporkisfriedandsupperisreadyWeeatthissittingontheground or a stump if there is any around a large piece of birch bark for atableeachholdingadipperinonehandandapieceofship-breadorfriedporkintheotherfrequentlymakingapasswithhishandorthrustinghisheadintothesmoketoavoidthemosquitoesNext pipes are lit by thosewho smoke andveils aredonnedby thosewhohave themandwehastilyexamineanddryourplants anointour facesandhandsandgotobedmdashandmdashthemosquitoesThoughyouhavenothingtodobutseethecountrytheresrarelyanytimetospare hardly enough to examine a plant before the night or drowsiness isuponyouSuchwastheordinaryexperiencebutthiseveningwehadcampedearlieronaccountoftherainandhadmoretimeWefound thatourcampto-nightwasonanoldandnowmore thanusuallyindistinct supply road running along the riverWhat is called a road thereshowsnorutsortraceofwheelsfortheyarenotusednorindeedofrunnerssincetheyareusedonlyinthewinterwhenthesnowisseveralfeetdeepItisonlyanindistinctvistathroughthewoodwhichittakesanexperiencedeyetodetectWehadnosoonerpitchedour tent than the thunder-showerburstonusandwehastilycreptunderitdrawingourbagsafteruscurioustoseehowmuchofashelterourthincottonroofwasgoingtobeinthisexcursionThoughtheviolenceoftherainforcedafineshowerthroughtheclothbeforeitwasfairlywettedandshrunkwithwhichwewerewellbedewedwemanaged tokeepprettydryonlyaboxofmatcheshavingbeenleftoutandspoiledandbeforewe were aware of it the shower was over and only the dripping treesimprisonedusWishingtoseewhatfishestherewereintherivertherewecastourlinesoverthewetbusheson the shorebut theywere repeatedly sweptdown the swift

streaminvainSoleavingtheIndianwetookthecanoejustbeforedarkanddroppeddowntheriverafewrodstofishatthemouthofasluggishbrookonthe opposite sideWe pushed up this a rod or two where perhaps only acanoe had been before But though there were a few small fishes mostlychivin there we were soon driven off by the mosquitoes While there weheardtheIndianfirehisguntwiceinsuchrapidsuccessionthatwethoughtitmustbedouble-barreledthoughweobservedafterwardthatitwassingleHisobjectwastocleanoutanddryitaftertherainandhethenloadeditwithballbeing now on ground where he expected to meet with large game Thissuddenloudcrashingnoiseinthestillaislesoftheforestaffectedmelikeaninsulttonatureorillmannersatanyrateasifyouweretofireaguninahallor temple It was not heard far however except along the river the soundbeingrapidlyhusheduporabsorbedbythedamptreesandmossygroundTheIndianmadealittlesmotheredfireofdampleavesclosetothebackofthecamp that the smokemightdrive throughandkeepout themosquitoesbutjustbeforewefellasleepthissuddenlyblazedupandcamenearsettingfiretothetentWewereconsiderablymolestedbymosquitoesatthiscampSUNDAYJuly26The note of the white-throated sparrow a very inspiriting but almost wirysoundwas the first heard in themorning andwith this all thewoods rangThiswastheprevailingbirdinthenorthernpartofMaineTheforestgenerallywasallalivewiththematthisseasonandtheywereproportionallynumerousand musical about Bangor They evidently breed in that State Thoughcommonly unseen their simple ah te-te-te te-te-te te-te-te so sharp andpiercingwasasdistincttotheearasthepassageofasparkoffireshotintothedarkestoftheforestwouldbetotheeyeIthoughtthattheycommonlyuttereditas theyflewIhear thisnotefora fewdaysonly in thespringas theygothroughConcord and in the fall see them again going southward but thentheyaremuteWewere commonly arousedby their lively strainvery earlyWhataglorioustimetheymusthaveinthatwildernessfarfrommankindandelectiondayI told the Indian that we would go to church to Chesuncook this (Sunday)morning some fifteenmiles Itwas settledweather at lastA few swallowsflittedoverthewaterweheardMarylandyellow-throatsalongtheshorethephebenotesofthechickadeeandIbelieveredstartsandmoose-fliesoflargesizepursuedusinmidstreamTheIndianthoughtthatweshouldliebyonSundaySaidheWecomeherelookum things look all round but come Sunday lock up all that and thenMondaylookagainHespokeofanIndianofhisacquaintancewhohadbeenwithsomeministerstoKtaadnandhadtoldhimhowtheyconductedThishedescribedinalowandsolemnvoiceTheymakealongprayereverymorning

andnightandateverymealComeSundaysaidhetheystopemnogoatall that daymdashkeep stillmdashpreach all daymdashfirst one then another just likechurch Oh ver goodmen One day said he going along a river theycametothebodyofamaninthewaterdrownedgoodwhileallreadyfalltopiecesTheygorightashoremdashstoptheregonofartherthatdaymdashtheyhavemeetingtherepreachandprayjust likeSundayThentheygetpolesandliftup the body and they go back and carry the bodywith themOh they vergoodmenI judged from this account that their every campwas a camp-meeting andtheyhadmistakentheirroutemdashtheyshouldhavegonetoEasthamthat theywantedanopportunitytopreachsomewheremorethantoseeKtaadnIreadofanothersimilarpartythatseemtohavespenttheirtimetheresingingthesongsofZionIwasgladthatIdidnotgotothatmountainwithsuchslowcoachesHowever theIndianaddedplyingthepaddleall thewhile that ifwewouldgoalonghemustgowithusheourmanandhesupposethatifhenotakumpay forwhat he do Sunday then thers no harm but if he takum pay thenwrongItoldhimthathewasstricterthanwhitemenNeverthelessInoticedthathedidnotforgettoreckonintheSundaysatlastHeappearedtobeaveryreligiousmanandsaidhisprayersinaloudvoiceinIndian kneeling before the camp morning and eveningmdashsometimesscramblingupagaininhastewhenhehadforgottenthisandsayingthemwithgreatrapidityInthecourseofthedayheremarkednotveryoriginallyPoormanrememberumGodmorethanrichWe soon passed the island where I had camped four years before and Irecognized thevery spotThedeadwater amile or twobelow it the Indiancalled Beskabekukskishtuk from the lake Beskabekuk which empties inaboveThisdeadwaterhesaidwasagreatplaceformoosealwaysWesawthegrassbentwhereamoosecameout thenightbeforeandtheIndiansaidthathecouldsmelloneas farashecouldseehimbutheadded that ifheshouldseefiveorsixto-dayclosebycanoehenoshootemAccordinglyashewastheonlyoneofthepartywhohadagunorhadcomea-hunting themooseweresafeJust below this a cat owl flew heavily over the stream and he asking if Iknewwhatitwasimitatedverywellthecommonhoohoohoohoorerhooof our woodsmaking a hard guttural sound Ugh ugh ughmdashugh ughWhen we passed the Moose-horn he said that it had no name What JoeAitteonhad calledRagmuff he calledPaytaytequick and said that itmeantBurntGroundStreamWe stopped therewhere I had stopped before and Ibathed in this tributary Itwas shallowbut cold apparently too cold for theIndian who stood looking on As we were pushing away again a white-headedeagle sailedoverourheadsA reachsomemilesabovePineStream

wheretherewereseveralislandstheIndiansaidwasNonglangyisDeadwaterPine Stream he called Black River and said that its Indian name wasKarsaootukHecouldgotoCaribouLakethatwayWe carried a part of the baggage about Pine StreamFallswhile the IndianwentdowninthecanoeABangormerchanthadtoldusthattwomeninhisemployweredrowned some timeagowhilepassing these falls in abatteauandathirdclungtoarockallnightandwastakenoffinthemorningTherewere magnificent great purple fringed orchises on this carry and theneighboring shores I measured the largest canoe birch which I saw in thisjourneyneartheendofthecarryItwas14frac12feetincircumferenceattwofeetfrom thegroundbut at five feetdivided into threepartsThecanoebirchesthereaboutswerecommonlymarkedbyconspicuousdarkspiralridgeswithagroove between so that I thought at first that they had been struck bylightningbutas theIndiansaid itwasevidentlycausedby thegrainof thetreeHecutasmallwoodyknobasbigasafilbert fromthe trunkofafirapparently an old balsamvesicle filledwithwoodwhich he saidwas goodmedicineAfterwehadembarkedandgonehalfamilemycompanionrememberedthathe had left his knife andwe paddled back to get it against the strong andswift currentThis taught us the difference between going up and down thestream for while we were working our way back a quarter of a mile weshouldhavegonedownamileandahalfatleastSowelandedandwhileheand the Indianwere gone back for it Iwatched themotions of the foam akindofwhitewater-fowlneartheshorefortyorfiftyrodsbelowItalternatelyappeared and disappeared behind the rock being carried round by an eddyEventhissemblanceoflifewasinterestingonthatlonelyriverImmediatelybelowthesefallswastheChesuncookDeadwatercausedbytheflowingbackofthelakeAswepaddledslowlyoverthistheIndiantoldusastory of his hunting thereabouts and something more interesting abouthimselfItappearedthathehadrepresentedhistribeatAugustaandalsoonceatWashingtonwherehehadmetsomeWesternchiefsHehadbeenconsultedat Augusta and gave advice which he said was followed respecting theeastern boundary ofMaine as determined by highlands and streams at thetimeof thedifficultieson thatsideHewasemployedwith thesurveyorsonthe lineAlsohehadcalledonDanielWebster inBoston at the timeofhisBunkerHillorationI was surprised to hear him say that he liked to go to Boston New YorkPhiladelphiaetcetcthathewouldliketolivethereButthenasifrelentingalittlewhenhethoughtwhatapoorfigurehewouldmakethereheaddedIsuppose I live inNewYork I be poorest hunter I expectHe understoodverywellbothhissuperiorityandhisinferioritytothewhitesHecriticisedthe

people of the United States as compared with other nations but the onlydistinctideawithwhichhelaboredwasthattheywereverystrongbutlikesomeindividualstoofastHemusthavethecreditofsayingthisjustbeforethe general breaking down of railroads and banks He had a great idea ofeducation and would occasionally break out into such expressions as thisKademymdasha-cad-e-mymdashgood thingmdashI suppose they usum Fifth ReaderthereYoubeencollegeFromthisdeadwatertheoutlinesofthemountainsaboutKtaadnwerevisibleThe top ofKtaadnwas concealed by a cloud but the SouneunkMountainswerenearerandquitevisibleWesteeredacrossthenorthwestendofthelakefromwhichwe lookeddownsouth-southeast thewhole length toJoeMerryMountain seenover its extremity It is an agreeable change to cross a lakeafteryouhavebeenshutupinthewoodsnotonlyonaccountofthegreaterexpanseofwaterbutalsoofskyItisoneofthesurpriseswhichNaturehasinstore for the traveler in the forestTo lookdown in thiscaseovereighteenmilesofwaterwasliberatingandcivilizingevenNodoubttheshortdistancetowhichyoucanseeinthewoodsandthegeneraltwilightwouldatlengthreact on the inhabitants andmake them salvages The lakes also reveal themountains and give ample scope and range to our thought The very gullswhich we saw sitting on the rocks like white specks or circling aboutremindedmeof custom-houseofficersAlready therewerehalf a dozen loghutsabout thisendof the lake thoughso far froma road Iperceive that inthesewoodstheearliestsettlementsareforvariousreasonsclusteringaboutthe lakes but partly I think for the sake of the neighborhood as the oldestclearingsTheyareforestschoolsalreadyestablishedmdashgreatcentresoflightWater is a pioneer which the settler follows taking advantage of itsimprovementsThusfaronlyIhadbeenbeforeAboutnoonweturnednorthwardupabroadkindofestuaryandatitsnortheastcornerfoundtheCaucomgomocRiverandafter going about a mile from the lake reached the Umbazookskus whichcomesinontherightatapointwheretheformerrivercomingfromthewestturns short to the south Our course was up the Umbazookskus but as theIndianknewofagoodcamping-place that isacoolplacewheretherewerefew mosquitoes about half a mile farther up the Caucomgomoc we wentthither The latter river judging from the map is the longer and principalstream and therefore itsnamemustprevail below the junctionSoquicklywe changed the civilizing sky of Chesuncook for the dark wood of theCaucomgomocOnreaching theIndianscamping-groundon thesouthsidewherethebankwasaboutadozenfeethighIreadonthetrunkofafirtreeblazedbyanaxeaninscriptionincharcoalwhichhadbeenleftbyhimItwassurmountedbyadrawingofabearpaddlingacanoewhichhesaidwas thesignwhich had been used by his family alwaysThe drawing though rude

couldnotbemistaken foranythingbutabearandhedoubtedmyability tocopyitTheinscriptionranthusverbatimetliteratimIinterlinetheEnglishofhisIndianashegaveittomeJuly261853

niasosebWealoneJosephPoliselioiPolisstartsiaoltaforOldtownonkenirightawayquambiJuly151855niasosebHeaddednowbelowmdash1857July26JoPolis

This was one of his homes I saw where he had sometimes stretched hismoose-hidesontheoppositeorsunnynorthsideoftheriverwheretherewasanarrowmeadowAfter we had selected a place for our camp and kindled our fire almostexactly on the site of the Indians last camphere he looking up observedThattreedangerItwasadeadpartmorethanafootindiameterofalargecanoebirchwhichbranchedat thegroundThisbranch rising thirty feetormoreslanteddirectlyover thespotwhichwehadchosenforourbedI toldhimtotryitwithhisaxebuthecouldnotshakeitperceptiblyandthereforeseemedinclinedtodisregarditandmycompanionexpressedhiswillingnesstoruntheriskButitseemedtomethatweshouldbefoolstolieunderitforthough the lower part was firm the top for aught we knew might be justreadytofallandweshouldatanyratebeveryuneasyifthewindaroseinthe

nightItisacommonaccidentformencampinginthewoodstobekilledbyafallingtreeSothecampwasmovedtotheothersideofthefireItwasasusualadampandshaggyforest thatCaucomgomoconeand themost you knew about it was that on this side it stretched toward thesettlements and on that to still more unfrequented regions You carried somuchtopographyinyourmindalwaysmdashandsometimesitseemedtomakeaconsiderable difference whether you sat or lay nearer the settlements orfartheroffthanyourcompanionsmdashweretherearorfrontiermanofthecampButthereisreallythesamedifferencebetweenourpositionswhereverwemaybecampedandsomearenearerthefrontiersonfeather-bedsinthetownsthanothersonfirtwigsinthebackwoodsThe Indian said that the Umbazookskus being a dead stream with broadmeadowswasagoodplaceformooseandhefrequentlycamea-huntingherebeingoutalonethreeweeksormorefromOldtownHesometimesalsowenta-hunting to the Seboois Lakes taking the stage with his gun andammunition axe and blankets hard-bread and pork perhaps for a hundredmilesof thewayand jumpedoffat thewildestplaceon the roadwherehewasatonceathomeandevery rodwasa tavern-site forhimThen after ashort journeythroughthewoodshewouldbuildaspruce-barkcanoeinoneday putting but few ribs into it that itmight be light and after doing hishuntingwithitonthelakeswouldreturnwithhisfursthesamewayhehadcomeThusyouhaveanIndianavailinghimselfcunninglyoftheadvantagesof civilizationwithout losing anyof hiswoodcraft but provinghimself themoresuccessfulhunterforitThismanwasverycleverandquicktolearnanythinginhislineOurtentwasofakindnewtohimbutwhenhehadonceseenitpitcheditwassurprisinghowquicklyhewouldfindandpreparethepoleandforkedstakestopitchitwithcuttingandplacing themright the first time thoughIamsure that themajorityofwhitemenwouldhaveblunderedseveraltimesThisrivercamefromCaucomgomocLakeabouttenmilesfartherupThoughitwassluggishhere therewerefallsnotfaraboveusandwesawthefoamfromthemgobyfromtimetotimeTheIndiansaidthatCaucomgomocmeantBig-GullLake(ieherringgullIsuppose)gomocmeaninglakeHencethiswasCaucomgomoctookor the river from that lakeThiswas thePenobscotCaucomgomoctooktherewasanotherStJohnonenotfarnorthHefindstheeggsof this gull sometimes twenty together as big as hens eggs on rockyledgesonthewestsideofMillinocketRiverforinstanceandeatsthemNow I thought I would observe how he spent his SundayWhile I andmycompanionwerelookingaboutatthetreesandriverhewenttosleepIndeedheimprovedeveryopportunitytogetanapwhatevertheday

RamblingaboutthewoodsatthiscampInoticedthattheyconsistedchieflyoffirsblackspruceandsomewhiteredmaplecanoebirchandalongtheriver the hoary alder (Alnus incana) I name them in the order of theirabundanceTheViburnumnudumwasacommonshrubandofsmallerplantstherewerethedwarfcornelgreatround-leavedorchisabundantandinbloom(agreenish-whiteflowergrowingin littlecommunities)UvulariagrandiflorawhosestemtastedlikeacucumberPyrolasecundaapparentlythecommonestpyrola in those woods now out of bloomPyrola elliptica and Chiogeneshispidula TheClintonia borealis with ripe berrieswas very abundant andperfectlyathome there Its leavesdisposedcommonly in trianglesabout itsstemwere justashandsomelyformedandgreenand itsberriesasblueandglossyasifitgrewbysomebotanistsfavoritepathIcould trace theoutlinesof largebirches thathadfallen longagocollapsedand rotted and turned to soil by faint yellowish-green lines of feather-likemoss eighteen incheswide and twenty or thirty feet long crossed by othersimilarlinesIheardanight-warblerwoodthrushkingfishertweezer-birdorparti-coloredwarbler and a nighthawk I also heard and saw red squirrels and heard abullfrogTheIndiansaidthatheheardasnakeWild as it was it was hard for me to get rid of the associations of thesettlementsAnysteadyandmonotonoussoundtowhichIdidnotdistinctlyattend passed for a sound of human industry Thewaterfallswhich I heardwerenotwithouttheirdamsandmillstomyimaginationandseveraltimesIfound that I had been regarding the steady rushing sound of thewind fromover the woods beyond the rivers as that of a train of carsmdashthe cars atQuebecOurmindsanywherewhenlefttothemselvesarealwaysthusbusilydrawingconclusionsfromfalsepremisesIaskedtheIndiantomakeusasugar-bowlofbirchbarkwhichhedidusingthegreatknifewhichdangledinasheathfromhisbeltbutthebarkbrokeatthecornerswhenhebentitupandhesaiditwasnotgoodthattherewasagreatdifferenceinthisrespectbetweenthebarkofonecanoebirchandthatofanother i e one cracked more easily than another I used some thin anddelicatesheetsofthisbarkwhichhesplitandcutinmyflower-bookthinkingitwouldbegoodtoseparatethedriedspecimensfromthegreenMy companionwishing to distinguish between the black andwhite spruceaskedPolis to showhima twigof the latterwhichhedidatonce togetherwiththeblackindeedhecoulddistinguishthemaboutasfarashecouldseethembutasthetwotwigsappearedverymuchalikemycompanionaskedtheIndian to point out the difference whereupon the latter taking the twigsinstantlyremarkedashepassedhishandoverthemsuccessivelyinastrokingmanner that the white was rough (i e the needles stood up nearly

perpendicular)buttheblacksmooth(ieasifbentorcombeddown)Thiswasanobviousdifferenceboth to sightand touchHowever if I rememberrightly thiswould not serve to distinguish thewhite spruce from the light-coloredvarietyoftheblackI asked him to letme see him get some black spruce root andmake somethreadWhereuponwithoutlookingupatthetreesoverheadhebegantogrubinthegroundinstantlydistinguishingtheblacksprucerootsandcuttingoffaslenderonethreeorfourfeetlongandasbigasapipe-stemhesplittheendwith his knife and taking a half between the thumb and forefinger of eachhandrapidlyseparateditswholelengthintotwoequalsemicylindricalhalvesthen giving me another root he said You try But in my hands itimmediately ran off one side and I got only a very short piece In shortthoughitlookedveryeasyIfoundthattherewasagreatartinsplittingtheserootsThesplitisskillfullyhumoredbybendingshortwiththishandorthatandsokeptinthemiddleHethentookoffthebarkfromeachhalfpressingashort pieceof cedar bark against the convex sidewithbothhandswhilehedrewtherootupwardwithhisteethAnIndiansteetharestrongandInoticedthatheusedhisoftenwhereweshouldhaveusedahandTheyamountedtoathird handHe thus obtained in amoment a very neat tough and flexiblestringwhichhecouldtieintoaknotormakeintoafish-lineevenItissaidthat inNorwayandSweden the rootsof theNorway spruce (Abies excelsa)are used in the sameway for the same purposeHe said that youwould beobligedtogivehalfadollarforsprucerootenoughforacanoethuspreparedHehadhired thesewingofhisowncanoe thoughhemadeall therestTherootinhiscanoewasofapaleslate-colorprobablyacquiredbyexposuretotheweatherorperhapsfrombeingboiledinwaterfirstHehaddiscoveredthedaybeforethathiscanoeleakedalittleandsaidthatitwasowingtosteppingintoitviolentlywhichforcedthewaterundertheedgeofthehorizontalseamsonthesideIaskedhimwherehewouldgetpitchtomend it with for they commonly use hard pitch obtained of the whites atOldtown He said that he could make something very similar and equallygoodnotof sprucegumor the likebutofmaterialwhichwehadwithusandhewishedmetoguesswhatButIcouldnotandhewouldnot tellmethoughheshowedmeaballofitwhenmadeasbigasapeaandlikeblackpitchsayingatlastthatthereweresomethingswhichamandidnottellevenhis wife It may have been his own discovery In Arnolds expedition thepioneersusedfortheircanoetheturpentineofthepineandthescrapingsofthepork-bagBeingcurioustoseewhatkindoffishestherewereinthisdarkdeepsluggishriver Icast inmy line justbeforenightandcaughtseveral small somewhatyellowish sucker-like fishes which the Indian at once rejected saying that

theyweremichigan fish (i e soft and stinking fish) and good for nothingAlsohewouldnottouchapoutwhichIcaughtandsaidthatneitherIndiansnorwhitesthereaboutseveratethemwhichIthoughtwassingularsincetheyare esteemed inMassachusetts and he had told me that he ate hedgehogsloons etc But he said that some small silvery fishes which I calledwhitechivinwhichweresimilarinsizeandformtothefirstwerethebestfishinthePenobscotwatersandifIwouldtossthemupthebanktohimhewouldcookthemformeAftercleaningthemnotverycarefullyleavingtheheadsonhelaidthemonthecoalsandsobroiledthemReturningfromashortwalkhebroughtavineinhishandandaskedmeifIknewwhatitwassayingthatitmadethebestteaofanythinginthewoodsItwasthecreepingsnowberry(Chiogeneshispidula)whichwasquitecommonthereitsberriesjustgrownHecalleditcowosnebagosarwhichnameimpliesthat it grows where old prostrate trunks have collapsed and rotted So wedeterminedtohavesometeamadeofthisto-nightIthadaslightcheckerberryflavorandwebothagreedthatitwasreallybetterthantheblackteawhichwehadbroughtWethoughtitquiteadiscoveryandthatitmightwellbedriedand sold in the shops I for one however am not an old tea-drinker andcannotspeakwithauthoritytoothersItwouldhavebeenparticularlygoodtocarry along for a cold drink during the day the water thereabouts beinginvariably warm The Indian said that they also used for tea a certain herbwhich grew in low ground which he did not find there and ledum orLabrador teawhich I have since found and tried inConcord also hemlockleaves the last especially in thewinterwhen the other plantswere coveredwith snow and various other things but he did not approve of arbor-vitaeligwhichIsaidIhaddrunkinthosewoodsWecouldhavehadanewkindofteaeverynightJustbeforenightwesawamusquash(hedidnotsaymuskrat) theonlyonewe saw in this voyage swimming downward on the opposite side of thestreamTheIndianwishingtogetonetoeathushedussayingStopmecallemandsittingflatonthebankhebegantomakeacurioussqueakingwirysoundwithhis lipsexertinghimselfconsiderablyIwasgreatlysurprisedmdashthoughtthatIhadatlastgotintothewildernessandthathewasawildmanindeedtobetalkingtoamusquashIdidnotknowwhichofthetwowasthestrangest tome He seemed suddenly to have quite forsaken humanity andgoneover to themusquashsideThemusquashhoweverasnearas Icouldseedidnot turnaside thoughhemayhavehesitateda littleand the Indiansaidthathesawourfirebutitwasevidentthathewasinthehabitofcallingthemusquash tohimashesaidAnacquaintanceofminewhowashuntingmooseinthosewoodsamonthafterthistellsmethathisIndianinthiswayrepeatedly called themusquashwithin reachofhispaddle in themoonlightandstruckatthem

TheIndiansaidaparticularlylongprayerthisSundayeveningasiftoatoneforworkinginthemorningMONDAYJuly27HavingrapidlyloadedthecanoewhichtheIndianalwayscarefullyattendedtothatitmightbewelltrimmedandeachhavingtakenalookasusualtoseethat nothing was left we set out again descending the Caucomgomoc andturningnortheasterlyuptheUmbazookskusThisnametheIndiansaidmeantMuchMeadowRiverWe found it a verymeadowy stream and deadwaterandnowverywideonaccountoftherainsthoughhesaiditwassometimesquitenarrowThespacebetweenthewoodschieflybaremeadowwasfromfiftytotwohundredrodsinbreadthandisarareplaceformooseItremindedme of the Concord and what increased the resemblance was one oldmusquash-housealmostafloatInthewateronthemeadowsgrewsedgeswool-grassthecommonblueflagabundantlyitsflowerjustshowingitselfabovethehighwaterasifitwereabluewater-lilyandhigherinthemeadowsagreatmanyclumpsofapeculiarnarrow-leaved willow (Salix petiolaris) which is common in our rivermeadows It was the prevailing one here and the Indian said that themusquashatemuchofitandherealsogrewtheredosier(Cornusstolonifera)itslargefruitnowwhitishThoughitwasstillearlyinthemorningwesawnighthawkscirclingoverthemeadow and asusualheard thepepe (MuscicapaCooperi)which is oneoftheprevailingbirdsinthesewoodsandtherobinItwasunusual for thewoods tobe sodistant from the shore and therewasquite an echo from thembutwhen Iwas shouting inorder to awake it theIndianremindedmethatIshouldscarethemoosewhichhewaslookingoutfor and which we all wanted to see The word for echowasPockadunkquaywayleAbroadbeltofdeadlarchtreesalongthedistantedgeofthemeadowagainsttheforestoneachsideincreasedtheusualwildnessofthesceneryTheIndiancalled these juniper and said that they had been killed by the backwatercaused by the dam at the outlet of Chesuncook Lake some twenty milesdistant I plucked at the waters edge the Asclepias incarnata with quitehandsomeflowersabrighterredthanourvariety(thepulchra)ItwastheonlyformofitwhichIsawthereHavingpaddledseveralmilesuptheUmbazookskusitsuddenlycontractedtoamerebrooknarrowand swift the larches andother trees approaching thebankandleavingnoopenmeadowandwelandedtogetablacksprucepoleforpushingagainst the streamThiswas the firstoccasion foroneTheoneselectedwasquiteslendercutabouttenfeetlongmerelywhittledtoapoint

andthebarkshavedoffThestreamthoughnarrowandswiftwasstilldeepwithamuddybottomas Iprovedbydiving to itBeside theplantswhichIhavementioned I observedon thebankhere theSalix cordata and rostrataRanunculusrecurvatusandRubustrifloruswithripefruitWhilewewerethusemployedtwoIndiansinacanoehoveinsightroundthebushescomingdownstreamOurIndianknewoneofthemanoldmanandfell into conversation with him in Indian He belonged at the foot ofMooseheadTheotherwasofanothertribeTheywerereturningfromhuntingIasked theyounger if theyhadseenanymoose towhichhesaidnobut Iseeing the moose-hides sticking out from a great bundle made with theirblankets in themiddleof the canoe added Only theirhidesAshewasaforeignerhemayhavewishedtodeceivemeforitisagainstthelawforwhitemenandforeignerstokillmooseinMaineatthisseasonButperhapsheneednothavebeenalarmedforthemoose-wardensarenotveryparticularIheardquitedirectlyofonewhobeingaskedbyawhitemangoing into thewoodswhathewouldsayifhekilledamooseansweredIfyoubringmeaquarterof it I guess you wont be troubled His duty being as he said only toprevent theindiscriminateslaughterof themfor theirhides I suppose thathe would consider it an indiscriminate slaughter when a quarter was notreservedforhimselfSucharetheperquisitesofthisofficeWecontinuedalongthroughthemostextensivelarchwoodwhichIhadseenmdashtall and slender trees with fantastic branches But though this was theprevailingtreehereIdonotrememberthatwesawanyafterwardYoudonotfind straggling treesof this specieshere and there throughout thewoodbutratheralittleforestofthemThesameisthecasewiththewhiteandredpinesandsomeothertreesgreatlytotheconvenienceofthelumbererTheyareofasocialhabitgrowinginveinsclumpsgroupsorcommunitiesastheexplorerscall themdistinguishingthemfarawayfromthetopofahilloratreethewhitepinestoweringabovethesurroundingforestorelsetheyformextensive forests by themselves I should have liked to come across a largecommunityofpineswhichhadneverbeeninvadedbythelumberingarmyWesawsomefreshmoose-tracksalongtheshorebuttheIndiansaidthatthemoosewerenotdrivenoutofthewoodsbythefliesasusualatthisseasononaccountoftheabundanceofwatereverywhereThestreamwasonlyfromoneandonehalftothreerodswidequitewindingwithoccasionalsmallislandsmeadows and some very swift and shallow places When we came to anislandtheIndianneverhesitatedwhichsidetotakeasifthecurrenttoldhimwhichwastheshortestanddeepestItwasluckyforusthatthewaterwassohighWehadtowalkbutonceonthisstreamcarryingapartoftheloadataswiftandshallowreachwhilehegotupwiththecanoenotbeingobligedtotakeoutthoughhesaiditwasverystrongwaterOnceortwicewepassedthe

redwreckofabatteauwhichhadbeenstovesomespringWhilemakingthisportageIsawmanysplendidspecimensofthegreatpurplefringed orchis three feet high It is remarkable that such delicate flowersshouldhereadornthesewildernesspathsHaving resumed our seats in the canoe I felt the Indian wiping my backwhichhehadaccidentallyspatuponHesaiditwasasignthatIwasgoingtobemarriedThe Umbazookskus River is called ten miles long Having poled up thenarrowestpartsomethreeorfourmilesthenextopeningintheskywasoverUmbazookskusLakewhichwesuddenlyenteredaboutelevenoclockintheforenoon It stretches northwesterly four or fivemileswithwhat the Indiancalled the CaucomgomocMountain seen far beyond it It was an agreeablechangeThis lakewasveryshallowa longdistancefromtheshoreandIsawstone-heaps on the bottom like those in theAssabet at homeThe canoe ran intooneThe Indian thought that theyweremadebyaneel JoeAitteon in1853thoughtthattheyweremadebychubWecrossedthesoutheastendofthelaketothecarryintoMudPondUmbazookskusLakeis theheadof thePenobscot in thisdirectionandMudPond is thenearestheadof theAllegashoneof thechief sourcesof theStJohnHodgewhowentthroughthiswaytotheStLawrenceintheserviceoftheStatecallstheportagehereamileandthreequarterslongandstatesthatMud Pond has been found to be fourteen feet higher than UmbazookskusLake As the West Branch of the Penobscot at the Moosehead carry isconsideredabouttwenty-fivefeetlowerthanMooseheadLakeitappearsthatthe Penobscot in the upper part of its course runs in a broad and shallowvalley between the Kennebec and St John and lower than either of themthoughjudgingfromthemapyoumightexpectittobethehighestMudPond is abouthalfway fromUmbazookskus toChamberlainLake intowhichitemptiesandtowhichwewereboundTheIndiansaidthatthiswasthe wettest carry in the State and as the season was a very wet one weanticipated an unpleasant walk As usual he made one large bundle of thepork-keg cooking-utensils and other loose traps by tying them up in hisblanketWeshouldbeobligedtogooverthecarrytwiceandourmethodwastocarryonehalfpartwayandthengobackfortherestOurpathranclosebythedoorofaloghutinaclearingatthisendofthecarrywhich the Indianwhoaloneentered it found tobeoccupiedbyaCanadianand his family and that the man had been blind for a year He seemedpeculiarlyunfortunatetobetakenblindtherewherethereweresofeweyestoseeforhimHecouldnotevenbeledoutofthatcountrybyadogbutmustbe

takendowntherapidsaspassivelyasabarrelofflourThiswasthefirsthouseaboveChesuncookandthelastonthePenobscotwatersandwasbuiltherenodoubtbecauseitwastherouteofthelumberersinthewinterandspringAfteraslightascentfromthelakethroughthespringysoiloftheCanadiansclearing we entered on a level and very wet and rocky path through theuniversal dense evergreen forest a loosely paved gutter merely where wewent leapingfromrock to rockandfromside toside in thevainattempt tokeepoutofthewaterandmudWeconcludedthatitwasyetPenobscotwaterthoughtherewasnoflowtoitItwasonthiscarrythatthewhitehunterwhomImet in the stage as he toldme had shot two bears a fewmonths beforeTheystooddirectly in thepathanddidnot turnoutforhimTheymightbeexcusedfornot turningout thereoronly taking therightas the lawdirectsHesaidthatatthisseasonbearswerefoundonthemountainsandhillsidesinsearchofberriesandwereapttobesaucymdashthatwemightcomeacrossthemupTroutStreamandheaddedwhatIhardlycreditedthatmanyIndianssleptintheircanoesnotdaringtosleeponlandonaccountofthemHerecommenceswhatwascalled twentyyearsago thebest timber land inthe State This very spot was described as covered with the greatestabundance of pine but now this appeared to me comparatively anuncommon tree theremdashandyetyoudidnot seewhereanymorecouldhavestoodamidthedensegrowthofcedarfiretcItwasthenproposedtocutacanal from lake to lakeherebut theoutletwas finallymade farther east atTelosLakeasweshallseeTheIndianwithhiscanoesoondisappearedbeforeusbutere longhecameback and told us to take a path which turned off westward it being betterwalkingandatmysuggestionheagreedtoleaveaboughintheregularcarryatthatplacethatwemightnotpassitbymistakeThereafterhesaidweweretokeepthemainpathandheaddedYouseeemmytracksButIhadnotmuchfaiththatwecoulddistinguishhistrackssinceothershadpassedoverthecarrywithinafewdaysWeturnedoffattherightplacebutweresoonconfusedbynumerouslogging-pathscomingintotheonewewereonbywhichlumberershadbeentopickout those pines which I have mentioned However we kept what weconsidered themain path though itwas awinding one and in this at longintervals we distinguished a faint trace of a footstep This thoughcomparativelyunwornwasat firstabetterorat leastadrier road than theregularcarrywhichwehadleftItledthroughanarbor-vitaeligwildernessofthegrimmestcharacterThegreatfallenandrottingtreeshadbeencutthroughandrolled aside and their huge trunks abutted on the path on each side whileothers still lay across it two or three feet high It was impossible for us todiscerntheIndianstrailintheelasticmosswhichlikeathickcarpetcovered

everyrockandfallentreeaswellastheearthNeverthelessIdidoccasionallydetect the trackofamanandIgavemyselfsomecredit for it Icarriedmywholeloadatonceaheavyknapsackandalargeindia-rubberbagcontainingourbreadandablanketswungonapaddleinallaboutsixtypoundsbutmycompanionpreferredtomaketwojourneysbyshortstageswhileIwaitedforhimWecouldnot be sure thatwewerenot depositingour loads each timefartherofffromthetruepathAsIsatwaitingformycompanionhewouldseemtobegonealongtimeandIhadampleopportunitytomakeobservationsontheforestInowfirstbegantobeseriouslymolestedbytheblackflyaverysmallbutperfectlyformedflyofthatcoloraboutonetenthofaninchlongwhichIfirstfeltandthensawinswarmsaboutmeasIsatbyawiderandmorethanusuallydoubtfulforkinthisdark forestpathThehunters tell bloody stories about themmdashhow theysettleinaringaboutyourneckbeforeyouknowitandarewipedoffingreatnumberswithyourbloodButrememberingthatIhadawashinmyknapsackpreparedbyathoughtfulhandinBangorImadehastetoapplyittomyfaceand hands andwas glad to find it effectual as long as itwas fresh or fortwentyminutesnotonlyagainstblackfliesbutall theinsects thatmolestedusTheywouldnotalightonthepartthusdefendedItwascomposedofsweetoilandoilofturpentinewithalittleoilofspearmintandcamphorHoweverI finally concluded that the remedy was worse than the disease It was sodisagreeableandinconvenienttohaveyourfaceandhandscoveredwithsuchamixtureThree large slate-colored birds of the jay genus (Garrulus Canadensis) theCanadajaymoose-birdmeat-birdorwhatnotcameflittingsilentlyandbydegreestowardmeandhoppeddownthelimbsinquisitivelytowithinsevenor eight feet They were more clumsy and not nearly so handsome as thebluejay Fish hawks from the lake uttered their sharp whistling notes lowoverthetopoftheforestnearmeasiftheywereanxiousaboutanestthereAfterIhadsattheresometimeInoticedatthisforkinthepathatreewhichhadbeenblazedandthelettersChambLwrittenonitwithredchalkThisIknewtomeanChamberlainLakeSoIconcludedthatonthewholewewereontherightcoursethoughaswehadcomenearlytwomilesandsawnosignsofMudPondIdidharborthesuspicionthatwemightbeonadirectcoursetoChamberlainLakeleavingoutMudPondThisIfoundbymymapwouldbeaboutfivemilesnortheasterlyandIthentookthebearingbymycompassMycompanionhavingreturnedwithhisbagandalsodefendedhisfaceandhandswith the insect-washweset forwardagainThewalkingrapidlygrewworse and the path more indistinct and at length after passing through apatch of Calla palustris still abundantly in bloomwe found ourselves in amore open and regular swamp made less passable than ordinary by the

unusualwetnessoftheseasonWesankafootdeepinwaterandmudateverystep and sometimes up to our knees and the trail was almost obliteratedbeingnomorethanthatamusquashleavesinsimilarplaceswhenhepartsthefloatingsedge In fact itprobablywasamusquash trail in someplacesWeconcluded that ifMudPondwasasmuddyas theapproach to itwaswet itcertainlydeserveditsnameItwouldhavebeenamusingtobeholdthedoggedanddeliberatepaceatwhichweenteredthatswampwithoutinterchangingawordasifdeterminedtogothroughitthoughitshouldcomeuptoournecksHaving penetrated a considerable distance into this and found a tussock onwhich we could deposit our loads though there was no place to sit mycompanionwentbackfortherestofhispackIhadthoughttoobserveonthiscarrywhenwecrossedthedividinglinebetweenthePenobscotandStJohnbutasmyfeethadhardlybeenoutofwaterthewholedistanceanditwasalllevel and stagnant I began to despair of finding it I remembered hearing agood deal about the highlands dividing the waters of the Penobscot fromthoseoftheStJohnaswellastheStLawrenceatthetimeofthenortheastboundarydisputeandIobservedbymymap that the lineclaimedbyGreatBritain as the boundary prior to 1842 passed betweenUmbazookskus LakeandMudPondsothatwehadeithercrossedorwerethenonitThesethenaccordingtoherinterpretationofthetreatyof83werethehighlandswhichdivide those rivers that empty themselves into the St Lawrence from thosewhichfallintotheAtlanticOceanTrulyaninterestingspottostandonmdashifthat were itmdashthough you could not sit down there I thought that if thecommissioners themselves and theKingofHollandwith them had spent afewdaysherewiththeirpacksupontheirbackslookingforthathighlandtheywouldhavehadaninterestingtimeandperhapsitwouldhavemodifiedtheirviewsofthequestionsomewhatTheKingofHollandwouldhavebeeninhiselementSuchweremymeditationswhilemycompanionwasgonebackforhisbagItwasacedarswamp throughwhichthepeculiarnoteof thewhite-throatedsparrowrangloudandclearTheregrewtheside-saddleflowerLabradorteaKalmia glauca andwhatwas new tome the low birch (Betula pumila) alittleround-leafedshrubtwoorthreefeethighonlyWethoughttonamethisswampafterthelatterAfteralongwhilemycompanioncamebackandtheIndianwithhimWehadtaken thewrong road and the Indian had lost usHe had verywisely goneback to the Canadians camp and asked him which way we had probablygonesincehecouldbetterunderstandthewaysofwhitemenandhetoldhimcorrectlythatwehadundoubtedlytakenthesupplyroadtoChamberlainLake(slendersuppliestheywouldgetoversucharoadatthisseason)TheIndianwasgreatlysurprisedthatweshouldhavetakenwhathecalledatow(ietote or toting or supply) road instead of a carry pathmdashthat we had not

followedhistracksmdashsaiditwasstrangeandevidentlythoughtlittleofourwoodcraftHavingheldaconsultationandeatenamouthfulofbreadweconcludedthatitwouldperhapsbenearer forus twonowtokeepon toChamberlainLakeomittingMudPondthantogobackandstartanewforthelastplacethoughtheIndianhadneverbeenthroughthiswayandknewnothingaboutitInthemeanwhilehewouldgobackandfinishcarryingoverhiscanoeandbundletoMudPondcrossthatandgodownitsoutletandupChamberlainLakeandtrusttomeetustherebeforenightItwasnowalittleafternoonHesupposedthat the water in which we stood had flowed back fromMud Pond whichcouldnotbefaroffeastwardbutwasunapproachablethroughthedensecedarswampKeeping on we were ere long agreeably disappointed by reaching firmerground andwe crossed a ridgewhere the pathwasmore distinct but therewasneveranyoutlookovertheforestWhiledescendingthelastIsawmanyspecimens of the great round-leaved orchis of large size one which ImeasuredhadleavesasusualflatonthegroundnineandahalfincheslongandninewideandwastwofeethighThedarkdampwildernessisfavorableto some of these orchidaceous plants though they are too delicate forcultivationIalsosawtheswampgooseberry(Rideslacustre)withgreenfruitandinallthelowgroundwhereitwasnottoowettheRubustriflorusinfruitAtoneplaceIheardaveryclearandpiercingnotefromasmallhawklikeasingle note from a white-throated sparrow only very much louder as hedashed through the tree-tops over my head I wondered that he allowedhimself to be disturbed by our presence since it seemed as if he could noteasily findhisnest againhimself in thatwildernessWealso sawandheardseveraltimestheredsquirrelandoftenasbeforeobservedthebluishscalesofthefirconeswhichithadleftonarockorfallentreeThisaccordingtotheIndian is the only squirrel found in thosewoods except a very few stripedonesItmusthaveasolitarytimeinthatdarkevergreenforestwherethereissolittlelifeseventy-fivemilesfromaroadaswehadcomeIwonderedhowhecouldcallanyparticulartreetherehishomeandyethewouldrunupthestemofoneoutof themyriadsas if itwereanoldroad tohimHowcanahawkeverfindhimthereIfanciedthathemustbegladtoseeusthoughhedid seem to chide us One of those sombre fir and spruce woods is notcompleteunlessyouhear fromout itscavernousmossyand twiggyrecesseshisfinealarummdashhissprucevoiceliketheworkingofthesapthroughsomecrack ina treemdashtheworkingof thesprucebeerSuchan impertinent fellowwouldoccasionallytrytoalarmthewoodaboutmeOhsaidIIamwellacquaintedwithyourfamilyIknowyourcousinsinConcordverywellGuessthemails irregular in theseparts andyoud like tohear from emButmyovertureswerevainforhewouldwithdrawbyhisaerialturnpikesintoamore

distantcedar-topandspringhisrattleagainWethenenteredanotherswampatanecessarilyslowpacewherethewalkingwasworsethanevernotonlyonaccountof thewaterbut thefallentimberwhich often obliterated the indistinct trail entirely The fallen treeswere sonumerousthatforlongdistancestheroutewasthroughasuccessionofsmallyardswhereweclimbedover fencesashighasourheadsdown intowateroftenuptoourkneesandthenoveranotherfenceintoasecondyardandsoonandgoingback forhisbagmycompaniononce losthiswayandcamebackwithoutitInmanyplacesthecanoewouldhaverunifithadnotbeenforthefallentimberAgainitwouldbemoreopenbutequallywet toowetfortrees to grow and no place to sit down It was a mossy swamp which itrequired the long legs of amoose to traverse and it is very likely that wescaredsomeoftheminourtransitthoughwesawnoneItwasreadytoechothegrowlofabearthehowlofawolforthescreamofapantherbutwhenyougetfairlyintothemiddleofoneofthesegrimforestsyouaresurprisedtofindthatthelargerinhabitantsarenotathomecommonlybuthaveleftonlyapuny red squirrel to bark at you Generally speaking a howlingwildernessdoesnothowlitistheimaginationofthetravelerthatdoesthehowlingIdidhoweverseeonedeadporcupineperhapshehadsuccumbedtothedifficultiesof the way These bristly fellows are a very suitable small fruit of suchunkemptwildernessesMakingalogging-roadintheMainewoodsiscalledswampingitandtheywho do thework are called swampers I now perceived the fitness of thetermThiswasthemostperfectlyswampedofalltheroadsIeversawNaturemusthavecooperatedwitharthereHowever Isuppose theywould tellyouthatthisnametookitsoriginfromthefactthatthechiefworkofroadmakersinthosewoodsistomaketheswampspassableWecametoastreamwherethe bridgewhich had beenmade of logs tied togetherwith cedar bark hadbeenbrokenupandwegotoveraswecouldThisprobablyemptiedintoMudPondandperhapstheIndianmighthavecomeupitandtakenusinthereifhehadknownitSuchasitwasthisruinedbridgewasthechiefevidencethatwewereonapathofanykindWe then crossed another low rising ground and Iwhowore shoes had anopportunity towringoutmystockingsbutmycompanionwhousedbootshadfoundthatthiswasnotasafeexperimentforhimforhemightnotbeabletogethiswetbootsonagainHewentoverthewholegroundorwaterthreetimes for which reason our progress was very slow beside that the watersoftened our feet and to some extent unfitted them for walking As I satwaiting forhim itwouldnaturally seemanunaccountable time that hewasgone Therefore as I could see through thewoods that the sunwas gettinglowand itwasuncertainhowfar the lakemightbeeven ifwewereon the

right course and in what part of the world we should find ourselves atnightfall I proposed that I should push through with what speed I couldleavingboughstomarkmypathandfindthelakeandtheIndianifpossiblebeforenightandsendthelatterbacktocarrymycompanionsbagHavinggoneaboutamileandgotintolowgroundagainIheardanoiselikethenoteof anowlwhich I soondiscovered tobemadeby the Indian andansweringhimwesooncametogetherHehadreachedthelakeaftercrossingMudPondandrunningsomerapidsbelowitandhadcomeupaboutamileand a half on our path If he had not come back to meet us we probablyshould not have found him that night for the path branched once or twicebefore reaching this particular part of the lake So he went back for mycompanion and his bag while I kept on Having waded through anotherstreamwherethebridgeoflogshadbeenbrokenupandhalffloatedawaymdashandthiswasnotaltogetherworsethanourordinarywalkingsinceitwaslessmuddymdashwecontinuedon throughalternatemudandwater to the shoreofApmoojenegamook Lake which we reached in season for a late supperinsteadofdiningthereaswehadexpectedhavinggonewithoutourdinnerItwasat least fivemilesby thewaywehadcomeandasmycompanionhadgoneovermostofit threetimeshehadwalkedfulladozenmilesbadasitwasInthewinterwhenthewaterisfrozenandthesnowisfourfeetdeepitisnodoubtatolerablepathtoafootmanAsitwasIwouldnothavemissedthatwalkforagooddealIfyouwantanexactrecipeformakingsucharoadtakeonepartMudPondanddiluteitwithequalpartsofUmbazookskusandApmoojenegamookthensendafamilyofmusquashthroughtolocateitlookafter thegradesandculvertsandfinish it to theirmindsandletahurricanefollowtodothefencingWe had come out on a point extending into Apmoojenegamook orChamberlainLakewestoftheoutletofMudPondwheretherewasabroadgravellyandrockyshoreencumberedwithbleachedlogsandtreesWewererejoicedtoseesuchdrythingsinthatpartoftheworldButatfirstwedidnotattendtodrynesssomuchastomudandwetnessWeallthreewalkedintothelakeuptoourmiddletowashourclothesThiswasanothernoble lakecalled twelvemiles longeastandwest ifyouaddTelosLakewhichsincethedamwasbuilthasbeenconnectedwithitbydeadwateritwillbetwentyanditisapparentlyfromamileandahalftotwomileswideWewereaboutmidwayitslengthonthesouthsideWecouldseetheonlyclearing in theseparts called theChamberlainFarmwith twoorthreelogbuildingsclosetogetherontheoppositeshoresometwoandahalfmilesdistantThesmokeofourfireontheshorebroughtovertwomeninacanoefromthefarmthatbeingacommonsignalagreedonwhenonewishestocrossIttookthemabouthalfanhourtocomeoverandtheyhadtheirlabor

for their pains this time Even the English name of the lake had a wildwoodland sound reminding me of that Chamberlain who killed Paugus atLovewellsfightAfterputtingonsuchdryclothesaswehadandhangingtheotherstodryonthepolewhich the Indianarrangedover the fireweateour supper and laydownonthepebblyshorewithourfeettothefirewithoutpitchingourtentmakingathinbedofgrasstocoverthestonesHerefirstIwasmolestedbythelittlemidgecalledtheno-see-em(SimuliumnocivummdashthelatterwordisnottheLatinforno-see-em)especiallyoverthesandat thewaters edge for it is akindof sand-flyYouwouldnotobservethembutfortheirlight-coloredwingsTheyaresaidtogetunderyourclothesandproduceafeverishheatwhichIsupposewaswhatIfeltthatnightOurinsectfoesinthisexcursiontosumthemupwerefirstmosquitoesthechiefonesbutonlytroublesomeatnightorwhenwesatstillonshorebydaysecondblackflies(Simuliummolestum)whichmolestedusmoreorlessonthecarriesbydayasIhavebeforedescribedandsometimesinnarrowerpartsofthestreamHarrismistakeswhenhesaysthattheyarenotseenafterJuneThirdmoose-fliesThebigonesPolissaidwerecalledBososquasis It isastout brown fly much like a horse-fly about eleven sixteenths of an inchlong commonly rusty-coloredbeneathwithunspottedwingsThey canbitesmartlyaccordingtoPolisbutareeasilyavoidedorkilledFourththeno-see-ems above mentioned Of all these the mosquitoes are the only ones thattroubledmeseriouslybutasIwasprovidedwithawashandaveiltheyhavenotmadeanydeepimpressionTheIndianwouldnotuseourwashtoprotecthisfaceandhandsforfearthatitwouldhurthisskinnorhadheanyveilhethereforesufferedfrominsectsnow and throughout this journey more than either of us I think that hesufferedmorethanIdidwhenneitherofuswasprotectedHeregularlytieduphisfaceinhishandkerchiefandburieditinhisblanketandhenowfinallylaydownonthesandbetweenusandthefireforthesakeofthesmokewhichhetriedtomakeenterhisblanketabouthisfaceandforthesamepurposehelithispipeandbreathedthesmokeintohisblanketAswelaythusontheshorewithnothingbetweenusandthestarsIinquiredwhat stars hewas acquaintedwith or had names for Theywere theGreatBearwhichhecalledbythisnametheSevenStarswhichhehadnoEnglishnameforthemorningstarandthenorthstarInthemiddleofthenightasindeedeachtimethatwelayontheshoreofalakeweheardthevoiceoftheloonloudanddistinctfromfaroverthelakeItisaverywildsoundquiteinkeepingwiththeplaceandthecircumstancesofthetravelerandveryunlikethevoiceofabirdIcouldlieawakeforhours

listeningtoititissothrillingWhencampinginsuchawildernessasthisyouarepreparedtohearsoundsfromsomeofitsinhabitantswhichwillgivevoiceto its wildness Some idea of bears wolves or panthers runs in your headnaturallyandwhenthisnoteisfirstheardveryfaroffatmidnightasyouliewithyour ear to thegroundmdashthe forest beingperfectly still aboutyou youtakeitforgrantedthat it is thevoiceofawolforsomeotherwildbeastforonlythelastpartisheardwhenatadistancemdashyouconcludethatitisapackofwolvesbayingthemoonorperchancecanteringafteramooseStrangeasitmayseemthemooingofacowonamountain-sidecomesnearesttomyidea of the voice of a bear and this birds note resembled that It was theunfailingandcharacteristicsoundofthoselakesWewerenotsoluckyastohear wolves howl though that is an occasional serenade Some friends ofminewho twoyearsagowentup theCaucomgomocRiverwereserenadedbywolveswhilemoose-huntingbymoonlight Itwasasuddenburstas ifahundred demons had broke loosemdasha startling sound enoughwhich if anywouldmake your hair stand on end and all was still again It lasted but amoment andyoudhave thought therewere twentyof themwhenprobablytherewereonly twoor threeTheyheard it twiceonly and they said that itgaveexpressiontothewildernesswhichitlackedbeforeIheardofsomemenwhowhileskinningamooselatelyinthosewoodsweredrivenofffromthecarcassbyapackofwolveswhichateitupThisof the loonmdashIdonotmean its laughbut its looningmdashisa long-drawncallasitweresometimessingularlyhumantomyearmdashhoo-hoo-ooooolikethehallooingofamanonaveryhighkeyhaving thrownhisvoice intohisheadIhaveheardasoundexactlylikeitwhenbreathingheavilythroughmyownnostrilshalfawakeattenatnightsuggestingmyaffinitytotheloonasif its languagewerebutadialectofmyownafterallFormerlywhenlyingawake at midnight in those woods I had listened to hear some words orsyllablesoftheirlanguagebutitchancedthatIlistenedinvainuntilIheardthe cry of the loon I have heard it occasionally on the ponds ofmy nativetownbutthereitswildnessisnotenhancedbythesurroundingsceneryIwasawakenedatmidnightbysomeheavylow-flyingbirdprobablyaloonflappingbycloseovermyheadalongtheshoreSoturningtheothersideofmyhalf-cladbodytothefireIsoughtslumberagainTUESDAYJuly28Whenwe awokewe found a heavy dewon our blankets I lay awake veryearly and listened to theclear shrill ah te te te te teof thewhite-throatedsparrow repeated at short intervals without the least variation for half anhourasifitcouldnotenoughexpressitshappinessWhethermycompanionshearditornotIknownotbutitwasakindofmatinstomeandtheeventofthatforenoon

ItwasapleasantsunriseandwehadaviewofthemountainsinthesoutheastKtaadnappearedaboutsoutheastbysouthAdouble-toppedmountainaboutsoutheastbyeastandanotherportionofthesameeast-southeastThelasttheIndiancalledNerlumskeechticookandsaidthatitwasattheheadoftheEastBranchandweshouldpassnearitonourreturnthatwayWe did somemore washing in the lake thismorning andwith our clotheshungaboutonthedeadtreesandrockstheshorelookedlikewashing-dayathomeThe Indian taking thehint borrowed the soap andwalking into thelakewashedhisonlycottonshirtonhispersonthenputonhispantsandletitdryonhimIobservedthatheworeacottonshirtoriginallywhiteagreenishflanneloneover it but no waistcoat flannel drawers and strong linen or duck pantswhich also had been white blue woolen stockings cowhide boots and aKossuth hatHe carried no change of clothing but putting on a stout thickjacketwhichhelaidasideinthecanoeandseizingafull-sizedaxehisgunand ammunition and a blanket which would do for a sail or knapsack ifwanted and strapping on his belt which contained a large sheath-knife hewalked off at once ready to be gone all summer This looked veryindependent a few simple and effective tools and no india-rubber clothingHewasalways the first ready to start in themorning and if it hadnotheldsome of our property would not have been obliged to roll up his blanketInsteadofcarryingalargebundleofhisownextraclothingetchebroughtbackthegreatcoatsofmoosetiedupinhisblanketIfoundthathisoutfitwasthe result of a long experience and in themain hardly to be improved onunlessbywashingandanextrashirtWantingabuttonherehewalkedofftoaplacewheresomeIndianshadrecentlyencampedandsearchedforonebutIbelieveinvainHaving softened our stiffened boots and shoes with the pork fat the usualdispositionofwhatwasleftatbreakfastwecrossedthelakeearlysteeringinadiagonaldirectionnortheasterlyabout fourmiles to theoutletwhichwasnot to be discovered till we were close to it The IndiannameApmoojenegamookmeanslakethatiscrossedbecausetheusualcourseliesacrossandnotalongitThisisthelargestoftheAllegashlakesandwasthe first St John water that we floated on It is shaped in the main likeChesuncookTherearenomountainsorhighhillsverynearitAtBangorwehadbeentoldofatownshipmanymilesfarthernorthwestitwasindicatedtousascontainingthehighestlandthereaboutswherebyclimbingaparticulartreeintheforestwecouldgetageneralideaofthecountryIhavenodoubtthatthelastwasgoodadvicebutwedidnotgothereWedidnotintendtogofardowntheAllegashbutmerelytogetaviewofthegreatlakeswhichareitssource and then return this way to the East Branch of the Penobscot The

waternowbygoodrightsflowednorthwardifitcouldbesaidtoflowatallAfterreachingthemiddleofthelakewefoundthewavesasusualprettyhighand the Indian warnedmy companion who was nodding that hemust notallowhimselftofallasleepinthecanoelestheshouldupsetusaddingthatwhenIndianswanttosleepinacanoetheyliedownstraightonthebottomButinthiscrowdedonethatwasimpossibleHoweverhesaidthathewouldnudgehimifhesawhimnoddingAbeltofdeadtreesstoodallaroundthelakesomefaroutinthewaterwithothers prostrate behind them and they made the shore for the most partalmostinaccessibleThisistheeffectofthedamattheoutletThusthenaturalsandyorrockyshorewithitsgreenfringewasconcealedanddestroyedWecoasted westward along the north side searching for the outlet about onequarterofamiledistantfromthissavage-lookingshoreonwhichthewaveswerebreakingviolentlyknowingthat itmighteasilybeconcealedamid thisrubbishorby theoverlappingof theshore It is remarkablehow little theseimportant gates to a lake are blazoned There is no triumphal arch over themodest inletoroutletbutat someundistinguishedpoint it trickles inoroutthroughtheuninterruptedforestalmostasthroughaspongeWereachedtheoutletinaboutanhourandcarriedoverthedamtherewhichisquiteasolidstructureandaboutonequarterofamilefarther therewasaseconddamThereaderwillperceivethattheresultofthisparticulardammingaboutChamberlainLake is that thehead-watersof theStJohnaremade toflow by Bangor They have thus dammed all the larger lakes raising theirbroad surfaces many feetMoosehead for instance some forty miles longwith its steamer on it thus turning the forces of nature against herself thattheymightfloattheirspoilsoutofthecountryTheyrapidlyrunoutoftheseimmenseforestsallthefinerandmoreaccessiblepinetimberandthenleavethebearstowatchthedecayingdamsnotclearingnorcultivatingthelandnormakingroadsnorbuildinghousesbutleavingitawildernessastheyfounditInmanypartsonlythesedamsremainlikedesertedbeaver-damsThinkhowmuch land theyhave flowedwithoutaskingNatures leaveWhen theStatewishes toendowanacademyoruniversity itgrants it a tractof forest landonesawrepresentsanacademyagangauniversityThewilderness experiences a sudden rise of all her streams and lakes Shefeels ten thousand vermin gnawing at the base of her noblest trees Manycombiningdrag themoff jarringover therootsof thesurvivorsand tumblethemintotheneareststreamtillthefairesthavingfallentheyscamperofftoransacksomenewwildernessandallisstillagainItisaswhenamigratingarmyofmicegirdlesaforestofpinesThechopperfellstreesfromthesamemotivethatthemousegnawsthemmdashtogethislivingYoutellmethathehasamoreinterestingfamilythanthemouseThatisasithappensHespeaksofa

berth of timber a good place for him to get into just as a wormmightWhenthechopperwouldpraiseapinehewillcommonlytellyouthattheonehecutwassobigthatayokeofoxenstoodonitsstumpasifthatwerewhatthepinehadgrownfortobecomethefootstoolofoxenInmymindseyeIcan see these unwieldy tame deer with a yoke binding them together andbrazen-tippedhornsbetrayingtheirservitudetakingtheirstandonthestumpof each giant pine in succession throughout this whole forest and chewingtheircudthereuntilitisnothingbutanox-pastureandrunoutatthatAsifitwere good for the oxen and some terebinthine or other medicinal qualityascendedintotheirnostrilsOristheirelevatedpositionintendedmerelyasasymbolofthefactthatthepastoralcomesnextinordertothesylvanorhunterlifeThe character of the loggers admiration is betrayed by his very mode ofexpressingit Ifhetoldall thatwasinhismindhewouldsay itwassobigthat I cut it down and then a yoke of oxen could stand on its stump Headmires the log thecarcassorcorpsemorethanthe treeWhymydearsirthetreemighthavestoodonitsownstumpandagreatdealmorecomfortablyand firmly than a yokeof oxen can if youhadnot cut it downWhat righthaveyoutocelebratethevirtuesofthemanyoumurderedTheAnglo-AmericancanindeedcutdownandgrubupallthiswavingforestandmakeastumpspeechandvoteforBuchananonitsruinsbuthecannotconverse with the spirit of the tree he fells he cannot read the poetry andmythology which retire as he advances He ignorantly erases mythologicaltablets in order to print his handbills and town-meeting warrants on themBefore he has learned his a b c in the beautiful but mystic lore of thewildernesswhichSpenserandDantehadjustbeguntoreadhecutsitdowncoinsapine-tree shilling (as if to signify thepinesvalue tohim)putsupadeestrictschoolhouseandintroducesWebstersspelling-bookBelowthelastdamtheriverbeingswiftandshallowthoughbroadenoughwetwowalkedabouthalfamiletolightenthecanoeImadeitaruletocarrymyknapsackwhenIwalkedandalsotokeepittiedtoacrossbarwheninthecanoethatitmightbefoundwiththecanoeifweshouldupsetIheardthedog-daylocusthereandafterwardonthecarriesasoundwhichIhad associated only with more open if not settled countries The area forlocustsmustbesmallintheMainewoodsWewerenowfairlyontheAllegashRiverwhichnameourIndiansaidmeanthemlockbarkThesewatersflownorthwardaboutonehundredmilesatfirstvery feebly then southeasterly two hundred and fifty more to the Bay ofFundyAfterperhapstwomilesofriverweenteredHeronLakecalledonthemapPongokwahemscaringupfortyorfiftyyoungshecorwayssheldrakesattheentrancewhichranoverthewaterwithgreatrapidityasusual inalong

lineThiswasthefourthgreatlakelyingnorthwestandsoutheastlikeChesuncookandmostofthelonglakesinthatneighborhoodandjudgingfromthemapitis about tenmiles longWehadentered it on the southwest side and sawadarkmountain northeast over the lake not very far off nor highwhich theIndian saidwas called PeakedMountain and used by explorers to look fortimberfromTherewasalsosomeotherhigh landmoreeasterlyTheshoreswere in the same ragged and unsightly condition encumbered with deadtimberbothfallenandstandingasinthelast lakeowingtothedamontheAllegashbelowSomelowpointsorislandswerealmostdrownedIsawsomethingwhiteamileoffonthewaterwhichturnedouttobeagreatgullonarockinthemiddlewhichtheIndianwouldhavebeengladtokillandeatbut it flewaway longbeforewewerenearandalsoa flockof summerducks thatwereabout therockwith it Iaskinghimaboutheronssince thiswasHeronLakehesaidthathefoundtheblueheronsnestsinthehardwoodtrees I thought that I sawa light-coloredobjectmovealong theoppositeornorthernshorefourorfivemilesdistantHedidnotknowwhat itcouldbeunlessitwereamoosethoughhehadneverseenawhiteonebuthesaidthathecoulddistinguishamooseanywhereonshoreclearacrossthelakeRoundingapointwestoodacrossabayforamileandahalfor twomilestoward a large island three or four miles down the lake We met withephemeraelig(shadfly)midwayaboutamilefromtheshoreandtheyevidentlyflyoverthewholelakeOnMooseheadIhadseenalargedevils-needlehalfamilefromtheshorecomingfromthemiddleofthelakewhereitwasthreeorfourmileswideat least It hadprobablycrossedBut at last of courseyoucometolakessolargethataninsectcannotflyacrossthemandthisperhapswillservetodistinguishalargelakefromasmalloneWelandedonthesoutheastsideoftheislandwhichwasratherelevatedanddenselywoodedwitharockyshoreinseasonforanearlydinnerSomebodyhadcampedtherenotlongbeforeandlefttheframeonwhichtheystretchedamoose-hidewhichourIndiancriticisedseverelythinkingitshowedbutlittlewoodcraftHerewereplentyoftheshellsofcrayfishorfresh-waterlobsterswhichhadbeenwashedashoresuchashavegivenanametosomepondsandstreamsTheyarecommonlyfourorfiveincheslongTheIndianproceededatoncetocutacanoebirchslanteditupagainstanothertreeontheshoretyingitwithawitheandlaydowntosleepinitsshadeWhen we were on the Caucomgomoc he recommended to us a new wayhome theveryonewhichwehad first thoughtofby theSt JohnHeevensaidthatitwaseasierandwouldtakebutlittlemoretimethantheotherbytheEastBranchofthePenobscotthoughverymuchfartherroundandtakingthemapheshowedwhereweshouldbeeachnightforhewasfamiliarwith

therouteAccordingtohiscalculationweshouldreachtheFrenchsettlementsthenextnightafterthisbykeepingnorthwarddowntheAllegashandwhenwegotintothemainStJohnthebankswouldbemoreorlesssettledallthewayasifthatwerearecommendationTherewouldbebutoneortwofallswithshortcarrying-placesandweshouldgodownthestreamveryfastevenahundredmilesadayifthewindallowedandheindicatedwhereweshouldcarryoverintoEelRivertosaveabendbelowWoodstockinNewBrunswickandsointotheSchoodicLakeandthencetotheMattawamkeagItwouldbeaboutthreehundredandsixtymilestoBangorthiswaythoughonlyaboutonehundredandsixtybytheotherbutintheformercaseweshouldexploretheSt John from its source through two thirds of its course as well as theSchoodicLake andMattawamkeagmdashandwewere again tempted to go thatwayIfearedhoweverthatthebanksoftheStJohnweretoomuchsettledWhenIaskedhimwhichcoursewouldtakeusthroughthewildestcountryhesaidtheroutebytheEastBranchPartlyfromthisconsiderationasalsofromits shortness we resolved to adhere to the latter route and perhaps ascendKtaadn on the wayWemade this island the limit of our excursion in thisdirectionWehadnowseenthelargestoftheAllegashlakesThenextdamwasaboutfifteenmilesfarthernorthdowntheAllegashanditwasdeadwatersofarWehadbeentoldinBangorofamanwholivedaloneasortofhermitatthatdamto takecareof itwhospenthis timetossingabulletfromonehandtotheotherforwantofemploymentmdashasifwemightwanttocallonhimThissort of tit-for-tat intercourse between his two hands bandying to and fro aleadensubjectseemstohavebeenhissymbolforsocietyThis island according to themap was about a hundred and tenmiles in astraight linenorth-northwest fromBangor and about ninety-ninemiles east-southeastfromQuebecTherewasanotherislandvisibletowardthenorthendof the lakewith an elevated clearingon it butwe learned afterward that itwasnotinhabitedhadonlybeenusedasapastureforcattlewhichsummeredinthesewoodsthoughourinformantsaidthattherewasahutonthemainlandnear theoutletof thelakeThisunnaturallysmooth-shavensquarishspot inthe midst of the otherwise uninterrupted forest only reminded us howuninhabited the countrywasYouwould sooner expect tomeetwith a bearthananoxinsuchaclearingAtanyrateitmusthavebeenasurprisetothebearswhentheycameacrossitSuchseenfarornearyouknowatoncetobemansworkforNatureneverdoesitInordertoletinthelighttotheearthasonalakeheclearsofftheforestonthehillsidesandplainsandsprinklesfinegrassseedlikeanenchanterandsocarpetstheearthwithafirmswardPolishadevidentlymorecuriosityrespectingthefewsettlersinthosewoodsthan we If nothing was said he took it for granted that we wanted to go

straighttothenextlog-hutHavingobservedthatwecamebytheloghutsatChesuncook and the blind Canadians at the Mud Pond carry withoutstopping to communicate with the inhabitants he took occasion now tosuggestthattheusualwaywaswhenyoucamenearahousetogotoitandtell the inhabitantswhatyouhad seenorheard and then they tellyouwhattheyhadseenbutwelaughedandsaidthatwehadhadenoughofhousesforthepresentandhadcomeherepartlytoavoidthemIn the meanwhile the wind increasing blew down the Indians birch andcreatedsuchaseathatwefoundourselvesprisonersontheislandthenearestshorewhichwas thewesternbeingperhapsamiledistantandwetookthecanoe out to prevent its drifting awayWe did not know but we should becompelled to spend the rest of the day and the night thereAt any rate theIndianwent to sleep again in the shade of his birchmy companion busiedhimselfdryinghisplantsandIrambledalongtheshorewestwardwhichwasquite stony andobstructedwith fallen bleachedordrifted trees for fourorfive rods inwidth I foundgrowingon thisbroad rockyandgravelly shorethe Salix rostrata discolor and lucidaRanunculus recurvatus PotentillaNorvegica Scutellaria laterifloraEupatoriumpurpureumAsterTradescantiMentha Canadensis Epilobium angustifolium (abundant) Lycopus sinuatusSolidago lanceolata Spiraeliga salicifolia Antennaria margaraticea PrunellaRumex Acetosella raspberries wool-grass Onoclea etc The nearest treeswere Betula papyracea and excelsa and Populus tremuloides I give thesenamesbecauseitwasmyfarthestnorthernpointOurIndiansaidthathewasadoctorandcouldtellmesomemedicinaluseforeveryplantIcouldshowhimIimmediatelytriedhimHesaidthattheinnerbarkoftheaspen(Populustremuloides)wasgoodforsoreeyesandsowithvarious other plants proving himself as good as hiswordAccording to hisaccounthehadacquiredsuchknowledgeinhisyouthfromawiseoldIndianwith whom he associated and he lamented that the present generation ofIndianshadlostagreatdealHesaidthatthecaribouwasaverygreatrunnerthattherewasnoneaboutthislakenowthoughthereusedtobemanyandpointingtothebeltofdeadtreescausedbythedamsheaddedNolikumstumpmdashwhenheseesthathescaredPointing southeasterlyover the lakeanddistant forest heobserved MegoOldtowninthreedaysIaskedhowhewouldgetovertheswampsandfallentreesOhsaidheinwinterallcoveredgoanywhereonsnowshoesrightacross lakesWhen I askedhowhewenthe said First I goKtaadnwestsidethenIgoMillinocketthenPamadumcookthenNicketowthenLincolnthen Oldtown or else he went a shorter way by the Piscataquis What awilderness walk for a man to take alone None of your half-mile swamps

noneofyourmile-widewoodsmerelyasontheskirtsofourtownswithouthotelsonlyadarkmountainoralakeforguide-boardandstationovergroundmuchofitimpassableinsummerIt remindedme of PrometheusBoundHerewas traveling of the old heroickindovertheunalteredfaceofnatureFromtheAllegashorHemlockRiverand Pongoquahem Lake across great Apmoojenegamook and leaving theNerlumskeechticookMountain on his left he takes hisway under the bear-haunted slopes of Souneunk and Ktaadn Mountains to Pamadumcook andMillinocketsinlandseas(whereoftengulls-eggsmayincreasehisstore)andsoontotheforksoftheNicketow(niasosebwealoneJosephseeingwhatour folks see) everpushing theboughsof the fir and spruceasidewithhisloadoffurscontendingdayandnightnightanddaywiththeshaggydemonvegetationtravelingthroughthemossygraveyardoftreesOrhecouldgobythat rough toothof theseaKineogreatsourceofarrowsandofspears tothe ancientswhenweapons of stonewere used Seeing and hearingmoosecaribou bears porcupines lynxes wolves and panthers Places where hemight live and die and never hear of theUnited Stateswhichmake such anoise in the worldmdashnever hear of America so called from the name of aEuropeangentlemanThereisalumberersroadcalledtheEagleLakeroadfromtheSebooistotheeast side of this lake It may seem strange that any road through such awildernessshouldbepassableeveninwinterwhenthesnowisthreeorfourfeet deep but at that season wherever lumbering operations are activelycarriedonteamsarecontinuallypassingonthesingletrackanditbecomesassmoothalmostasarailwayIamtoldthatintheAroostookcountrythesledsarerequiredbylawtobeofonewidth(fourfeet)andsleighsmustbealteredtofitthetracksothatonerunnermaygoinonerutandtheotherfollowthehorseYetitisverybadturningoutWehadforsome timeseena thunder-showercomingupfromthewestoverthewoods of the island and heard themuttering of the thunder thoughwewere in doubt whether it would reach us but now the darkness rapidlyincreasingandafreshbreezerustlingtheforestwehastilyputuptheplantswhich we had been drying and with one consent made a rush for the tentmaterialandsetaboutpitchingitAplacewasselectedandstakesandpinscutin the shortest possible time andwewerepinning it down lest it shouldbeblownawaywhenthestormsuddenlyburstoverusAswe layhuddled togetherunder the tentwhich leakedconsiderablyaboutthe sideswith our baggage at our feetwe listened to someof thegrandestthunderwhichIeverheardmdashrapidpealsroundandplumpbangbangbangin succession like artillery from some fortress in the sky and the lightningwasproportionally brilliantThe Indian said Itmust be goodpowderAll

for thebenefit of themoose andus echoing far over the concealed lakes Ithought it must be a place which the thunder loved where the lightningpracticedtokeepitshandinanditwoulddonoharmtoshatterafewpinesWhat had become of the ephemeraelig and devils-needles then Were theyprudentenoughtoseekharborbeforethestormPerhapstheirmotionsmightguidethevoyageurLookingoutIperceivedthattheviolentshowerfallingonthelakehadalmostinstantaneously flattened the wavesmdashthe commander of that fortress hadsmootheditforussomdashanditclearingoffweresolvedtostartimmediatelybeforethewindraisedthemagainGoingoutsideIsaidthatIsawcloudsstillinthesouthwestandheardthunderthereTheIndianasked if the thunderwentlound(round)saying that if itdid we should have more rain I thought that it did We embarkednevertheless andpaddled rapidlyback toward thedamsThewhite-throatedsparrowsontheshorewereaboutsingingAhte-e-ete-e-eteorelseahte-e-ete-e-ete-e-ete-e-eAttheoutletofChamberlainLakewewereovertakenbyanothergustyrain-stormwhichcompelledus to takeshelter theIndianunderhiscanoeonthebankandweranundertheedgeofthedamHoweverweweremorescaredthanwetFrommycovertIcouldseetheIndianpeepingoutfrombeneathhiscanoetoseewhathadbecomeoftherainWhenwehadtakenourrespectiveplaces thus once or twice the rain not coming down in earnest wecommencedramblingabout theneighborhood for thewindhadby this timeraised suchwaveson the lake thatwecouldnot stir andwe feared thatweshouldbeobligedtocampthereWegotanearlysupperonthedamandtriedforfishtherewhilewaitingforthetumulttosubsideThefisheswerenotonlyfewbutsmallandworthlessandtheIndiandeclaredthattherewerenogoodfishesintheStJohnswatersthatwemustwaittillwegottothePenobscotwatersAtlengthjustbeforesunsetwesetoutagainItwasawildeveningwhenwecoastedupthenorthsideofthisApmoojenegamookLakeOnethunder-stormwas justoverand thewaveswhich ithad raisedstill runningwithviolenceandanotherstormwasnowseencomingupinthesouthwestfaroverthelakebutitmightbeworseinthemorningandwewishedtogetasfaraspossibleonourwayup the lakewhilewemight Itblowedhardagainst thenorthernshoreaboutaneighthofamiledistantonourleftandtherewasjustasmuchsea as our shallowcanoewouldbearwithout our takingunusual careThatwhichwekeptoffandtowardwhichthewavesweredrivingwasasdrearyandharborlessashoreasyoucanconceiveForhalfadozenrodsinwidthitwasaperfectmazeofsubmergedtreesalldeadandbareandbleachingsomestandinghalftheiroriginalheightothersprostrateandcriss-acrossaboveor

beneath the surface andmingledwith themwere loose trees and limbs andstumpsbeating about Imagine thewharvesof the largest city in theworlddecayedandtheearthandplankingwashedawayleavingthespilesstandingin looseorderbutoftenof twice theordinaryheight andmingledwithandbeating against them the wreck of ten thousand navies all their spars andtimbers while there rises from the waters edge the densest and grimmestwildernessreadytosupplymorematerialwhentheformerfailsandyoumaygetafaintideaofthatcoastWecouldnothavelandedifwewouldwithoutthegreatestdangerofbeingswampedsoblowasitmightwemustdependoncoasting by it It was twilight too and that stormy cloud was advancingrapidlyinourrearItwasapleasantexcitementyetweweregladtoreachatlengthinthedusktheclearedshoreoftheChamberlainFarmWelandedonalowandthinlywoodedpointthereandwhilemycompanionswerepitchingthetentIranuptothehousetogetsomesugaroursixpoundsbeing gonemdashit was nowonder theywere for Polis had a sweet tooth HewouldfirstfillhisdippernearlyathirdfullofsugarandthenaddthecoffeetoitHerewasaclearingextendingback from the lake toahilltopwithsomedark-colored log buildings and a storehouse in it and half a dozen menstandinginfrontoftheprincipalhutgreedyfornewsAmongthemwasthemanwho tended the dam on theAllegash and tossed the bulletHe havingchargeof thedams and learning thatweweregoing toWebsterStream thenextdaytoldmethatsomeoftheirmenwhowerehayingatTelosLakehadshutthedamatthecanalthereinordertocatchtroutandifwewantedmorewatertotakeusthroughthecanalwemightraisethegateforhewouldliketohaveitraisedTheChamberlainFarmisnodoubtacheerfulopeninginthewoods but such was the lateness of the hour that it has left but a duskyimpressiononmymindAsIhavesaidtheinfluxoflightmerelyiscivilizingyetIfanciedthattheywalkedaboutonSundaysintheirclearingsomewhatasinaprison-yardThey were unwilling to spare more than four pounds of brown sugarmdashunlockingthestorehousetogetitmdashsincetheyonlykeptalittleforsuchcasesas thisand theycharged twentycentsapound for itwhichcertainly itwasworthtogetitupthereWhen I returned to the shore itwasquitedarkbutwehada rousing fire towarmanddryusbyandasnugapartmentbehinditTheIndianwentuptothehouse to inquireafterabrotherwhohadbeenabsenthuntingayearor twoandwhile another showerwasbeginning I gropedabout cutting spruceandarbor-vitaelig twigs for a bed I preferred the arbor-vitaelig on account of itsfragranceandspreaditparticularlythickabouttheshouldersItisremarkablewithwhatpuresatisfactionthetravelerinthesewoodswillreachhiscamping-groundontheeveofatempestuousnightlikethisasifhehadgottohisinn

androllinghimselfinhisblanketstretchhimselfonhissix-feet-by-twobedofdrippingfirtwigswithathinsheetofcottonforroofsnugasameadow-mouseinitsnestInvariablyourbestnightswerethosewhenitrainedforthenwewerenottroubledwithmosquitoesYousooncometodisregardrainonsuchexcursionsatleastinthesummeritissoeasytodryyourselfsupposingadrychangeofclothingisnottobehadYoucanmuchsoonerdryyoubysucha fireasyoucanmake in thewoodsthaninanybodyskitchenthefireplaceissomuchlargerandwoodsomuchmore abundant A shed-shaped tent will catch and reflect the heat like aYankeebakerandyoumaybedryingwhileyouaresleepingSomewhohaveleakyroofsinthetownsmayhavebeenkeptawakebutweweresoonlulledasleepbyasteadysoakingrainwhichlastedallnightTo-nighttherainnotcomingatoncewithviolencethetwigsweresoondriedbythereflectedheatWEDNESDAYJuly29WhenweawokeithaddonerainingthoughitwasstillcloudyThefirewasputoutandtheIndiansbootswhichstoodundertheeavesofthetentwerehalffullofwaterHewasmuchmoreimprovidentinsuchrespectsthaneitherofusandhehadtothankusforkeepinghispowderdryWedecidedtocrossthelakeatoncebeforebreakfastorwhilewecouldandbeforestartingItookthebearingoftheshorewhichwewishedtostrikeSSEaboutthreemilesdistant lest a sudden misty rain should conceal it when we were midwayThoughthebayinwhichwewerewasperfectlyquietandsmoothwefoundthelakealreadywideawakeoutsidebutnotdangerouslyorunpleasantlysoneverthelesswhenyougetoutononeofthoselakesinacanoelikethisyoudonot forget thatyouarecompletelyat themercyof thewindanda ficklepower it isTheplayfulwavesmayat any timebecome too rude foryou intheirsportandplayrightonoveryouWesawafewshecorwaysandafishhawk thus early and aftermuch steady paddling and dancing over the darkwavesofApmoojenegamookwefoundourselvesintheneighborhoodofthesouthernlandheardthewavesbreakingonitandturnedourthoughtswhollyto that side After coasting eastward along this shore a mile or two webreakfastedonarockypointthefirstconvenientplacethatofferedItwaswell enough thatwe crossed thus early for thewaves now ran quitehighandweshouldhavebeenobligedtogoroundsomewhatbutbeyondthispointwehadcomparativelysmoothwaterYoucancommonlygoalongonesideortheotherofalakewhenyoucannotcrossitTheIndianwas lookingat thehard-woodridgesfromtime to timeandsaidthat he would like to buy a few hundred acres somewhere about this lakeaskingouradviceItwastobuyasnearthecrossing-placeaspossible

MycompanionandIhavingaminutesdiscussiononsomepointofancienthistorywereamusedbytheattitudewhichtheIndianwhocouldnottellwhatweweretalkingaboutassumedHeconstitutedhimselfumpireandjudgingby our air and gesture he very seriously remarked from time to time youbeatorhebeatLeavingaspaciousbayanortheasterlyprolongationofChamberlainLakeonourleftweenteredthroughashortstrait intoasmall lakeacoupleofmilesovercalledon themapTelasinisbut theIndianhadnodistinctnamefor itand thence into Telos Lake which he calledPaytaywecomgomoc or Burnt-Ground Lake This curved round toward the northeast andmay have beenthreeorfourmileslongaswepaddledHehadnotbeenheresince1825HedidnotknowwhatTelosmeantthoughtitwasnotIndianHeusedthewordspokelogan(foraninletintheshorewhichlednowhere)andwhenIaskeditsmeaningsaidthattherewasnoIndianinemTherewasaclearingwithahouseandbarnonthesouthwestshoretemporarilyoccupiedbysomemenwhoweregettingthehayaswehadbeentoldalsoaclearingforapastureonahillonthewestsideofthelakeWe landedona rockypointon thenortheast side to lookat someredpines(Pinus resinosa) the first we had noticed and get some cones for our fewwhichgrowinConcorddonotbearanyTheoutletfromthelakeintotheEastBranchofthePenobscotisanartificialone and it was not very apparent where it was exactly but the lake rancurvingfarupnortheasterlyintotwonarrowvalleysorravinesasifithadforalongtimebeengropingitswaytowardthePenobscotwatersorrememberedwhen it anciently flowed therebyobservingwhere thehorizonwas lowestandfollowingthelongestoftheseweatlengthreachedthedamhavingcomeaboutadozenmilesfromthelastcampSomebodyhadleftalinesetfortroutandthejackknifewithwhichthebaithadbeencutonthedambesideitanevidence thatmanwas near and on a deserted log close by a loaf of breadbakedinaYankeebakerTheseprovedthepropertyofasolitaryhunterwhomwesoonmetandcanoeandgunandtrapswerenotfaroffHetoldusthatitwas twentymiles fartheronour route to the footofGrandLakewhereyoucouldcatchasmany troutasyouwantedand that the firsthousebelow thefootofthelakeontheEastBranchwasHuntsaboutforty-fivemilesfartherthough therewasoneaboutamileandahalfupTroutStreamsomefifteenmilesaheadbutitwasratherablindroutetoitItturnedoutthatthoughthestreamwasinourfavorwedidnotreachthenexthousetillthemorningofthethirdday after thisThenearest permanently inhabitedhousebehinduswasnowadozenmilesdistantsothattheintervalbetweenthetwonearesthousesonourroutewasaboutsixtymilesThishunterwhowasaquitesmallsunburntmanhavingalreadycarriedhis

canoeoverandbakedhisloafhadnothingsointerestingandpressingtodoastoobserveourtransitHehadbeenoutamonthormorealoneHowmuchmorewildandadventuroushislifethanthatofthehunterinConcordwoodswho gets back to his house and the mill-dam every night Yet they in thetowns who have wild oats to sow commonly sow them on cultivated andcomparatively exhausted ground And as for the rowdy world in the largecities so little enterprisehas it that it never adventures in thisdirectionbutlike vermin clubs together in alleys and drinking-saloons its highestaccomplishmentperchance to runbesidea fire-engineand throwbrickbatsBut the former is comparatively an independent and successfulmangettinghislivinginawaythathelikeswithoutdisturbinghishumanneighborsHowmuchmorerespectablealsoisthelifeofthesolitarypioneerorsettlerintheseoranywoodsmdashhavingrealdifficultiesnotofhisowncreationdrawinghissubsistencedirectly fromnaturemdashthan thatof thehelplessmultitudes in thetownswhodependongratifyingtheextremelyartificialwantsofsocietyandarethrownoutofemploymentbyhardtimesHere for the first time we found the raspberries really plentymdashthat is onpassing theheight of landbetween theAllegash and theEastBranchof thePenobscotthesamewastrueoftheblueberriesTelosLaketheheadoftheStJohnonthissideandWebsterPondtheheadoftheEastBranchofthePenobscotareonlyaboutamileapartandtheyareconnectedby a ravine inwhichbut little diggingwas required tomake thewater of the former which is the highest flow into the latter This canalwhichissomethinglessthanamilelongandaboutfourrodswidewasmadeafewyearsbeforemyfirstvisittoMaineSincethenthelumberoftheupperAllegash and its lakes has been run down the Penobscot that is up theAllegash which here consists principally of a chain of large and stagnantlakes whose thoroughfares or river-links have been made nearly equallystagnantbydammingandthendownthePenobscotTherushofthewaterhasproducedsuchchanges in thecanal that ithasnowtheappearanceofaveryrapidmountain stream flowing througha ravine andyouwouldnot suspectthatanydigginghadbeenrequired topersuade thewatersof theSt John toflow into thePenobscothere Itwassowinding thatonecouldseebut littlewaydownItisstatedbySpringerinhisForestLifethatthecauseofthiscanalbeingdugwasthisaccordingtothetreatyof1842withGreatBritainitwasagreedthatallthetimberrundowntheStJohnwhichrisesinMainewhenwithintheProvinceofNewBrunswickshallbedealtwithasifitweretheproduceofthesaidProvincewhichwasthoughtbyoursidetomeanthatitshouldbefreefromtaxationImmediatelytheProvincewishingtogetsomethingoutoftheYankeesleviedadutyonallthetimberthatpasseddowntheStJohnbut

to satisfy its own subjects made a correspondingdiscount on the stumpagecharged thosehauling timber fromthecrown landsThe resultwas that theYankeesmadetheStJohnruntheotherwayordownthePenobscotsothattheProvincelostbothitsdutyanditswaterwhiletheYankeesbeinggreatlyenrichedhadreasontothankitforthesuggestionItiswonderfulhowwellwateredthiscountryisAsyoupaddleacrossalakebays will be pointed out to you by following up which and perhaps thetributarystreamwhichemptiesinyoumayafterashortportageorpossiblyat some seasons none at all get into another riverwhich empties far awayfromtheoneyouareonGenerallyyoumaygoinanydirectioninacanoebymakingfrequentbutnotverylongportagesYouareonlyrealizingoncemorewhatallnaturedistinctlyremembersherefornodoubtthewatersflowedthusinaformergeologicalperiodandinsteadofbeingalakecountry itwasanarchipelago It seems as if the more youthful and impressible streams canhardly resist the numerous invitations and temptations to leave their nativebedsandrundowntheirneighborschannelsYourcarriesareoftenoverhalf-submergedgroundon thedrychannelsofaformerperiod IncarryingfromonerivertoanotherIdidnotgooversuchhighandrockygroundasingoingabout thefallsof thesameriverFor in theformercaseIwasonce lost inaswampasIhaverelatedandagainfoundanartificialcanalwhichappearedtobenaturalI remember once dreaming of pushing a canoe up the rivers ofMaine andthatwhenIhadgotsohighthatthechannelsweredryIkeptonthroughtheravines and gorges nearly aswell as before by pushing a little harder andnowitseemedtomethatmydreamwaspartiallyrealizedWhereverthereisachannelforwaterthereisaroadforthecanoeThepilotofthesteamerwhichranfromOldtownupthePenobscotin1854toldmethatshe drew only fourteen inches and would run easily in two feet of waterthoughtheydidnotliketoItissaidthatsomeWesternsteamerscanrunonaheavy dewwhencewe can imaginewhat a canoemay doMontresorwhowassentfromQuebecby theEnglishabout1760toexplore theroute to theKennebecoverwhichArnoldafterwardpassedsupplied thePenobscotnearitssourcewithwaterbyopeningthebeaver-damsandhesaysThisisoftendone He afterward states that the Governor of Canada had forbidden tomolestthebeaverabouttheoutletoftheKennebecfromMooseheadLakeonaccount of the service which their dams did by raising the water fornavigationThiscanalsocalledwasaconsiderableandextremelyrapidandrockyriverTheIndiandecidedthattherewaswaterenoughinitwithoutraisingthedamwhichwouldonlymakeitmoreviolentandthathewouldrundownitalonewhilewecarried thegreater part of thebaggageOurprovisionbeing about

halfconsumedtherewasthelessleftinthecanoeWehadthrownawaythepork-keg and wrapt its contents in birch bark which is the unequaledwrapping-paperofthewoodsFollowing amoist trail through the forest we reached the head ofWebsterPondabout thesametimewith theIndiannotwithstandingthevelocitywithwhichhemovedourroutebeingthemostdirectTheIndiannameofWebsterStreamofwhichthispondisthesourceisaccordingtohimMadunkchunki eHeight ofLand and of the pondMadunkchunk-gamooc orHeight ofLandPondThelatterwastwoorthreemileslongWepassednearapineonitsshorewhichhadbeensplinteredbylightningperhapsthedaybeforeThiswasthefirstproperEastBranchPenobscotwaterthatwecametoAt the outlet ofWebster Lake was another dam at which we stopped andpickedraspberrieswhiletheIndianwentdownthestreamahalf-milethroughtheforest toseewhathehadgot tocontendwithTherewasadeserted logcamphere apparentlyused thepreviouswinterwith its hovelorbarn forcattle In the hut was a large fir twig bed raised two feet from the flooroccupyingalargepartofthesingleapartmentalongnarrowtableagainstthewallwithastoutlogbenchbeforeitandabovethetableasmallwindowtheonlyonetherewaswhichadmittedafeeblelightItwasasimpleandstrongfort erected against the cold and suggestedwhat valiant trencherwork hadbeendonethereIdiscoveredoneortwocuriouswoodentrapswhichhadnotbeenusedforalongtimeinthewoodsnearbyTheprincipalpartconsistedofalongandslenderpoleWegot our dinner on the shore on the upper side of the damAsweweresitting by our fire concealed by the earth bank of the dam a long line ofsheldrakehalf-growncamewaddlingover it from thewaterbelowpassingwithin about a rod of us so thatwe could almost have caught them in ourhandsTheywereveryabundantonallthestreamsandlakeswhichwevisitedandeverytwoorthreehourstheywouldrushawayinalongstringoverthewaterbeforeustwentytofiftyofthematoncerarelyeverflyingbutrunningwith great rapidity up or down the stream even in the midst of the mostviolentrapidsandapparentlyasfastupasdownorelsecrossingdiagonallytheoldasitappearedbehindanddrivingthemandflyingtothefrontfromtime to time as if to direct themWe also saw many small black dipperswhichbehavedinasimilarmannerandonceortwiceafewblackducksAnIndianatOldtownhadtoldusthatweshouldbeobligedtocarrytenmilesbetweenTelosLakeon theStJohnandSecondLakeon theEastBranchofthePenobscot but the lumbererswhomwemet assuredus that therewouldnotbemorethanamileofcarryItturnedoutthattheIndianwhohadlatelybeenoverthisroutewasnearestrightasfaraswewereconcernedHoweverifoneofuscouldhaveassistedtheIndianinmanagingthecanoeintherapids

wemight have run the greater part of the way but as he was alone in themanagementofthecanoeinsuchplaceswewereobligedtowalkthegreaterpartIdidnotfeelquitereadytotrysuchanexperimentonWebsterStreamwhich has so bad a reputation According to my observation a batteauproperlymanned shoots rapids as amatterof coursewhicha single IndianwithacanoecarriesroundMy companion and I carried a good part of the baggage on our shoulderswhiletheIndiantookthatwhichwouldbeleast injuredbywet inthecanoeWedidnotknowwhenweshouldseehimagainforhehadnotbeenthiswaysincethecanalwascutnorformorethanthirtyyearsHeagreedtostopwhenhegottosmoothwatercomeupandfindourpathifhecouldandhallooforusandafterwaitingareasonabletimegoonandtryagainmdashandweweretolookoutinlikemannerforhimHecommencedbyrunningthroughthesluicewayandoverthedamasusualstandingupinhistossingcanoeandwassoonoutofsightbehindapointinawildgorgeThisWebsterStream iswell known to lumbermen as a difficultone It is exceedingly rapid and rocky and also shallow and can hardly beconsiderednavigableunlessthatmaymeanthatwhatislaunchedinitissuretobecarriedswiftlydownitthoughitmaybedashedtopiecesbythewayItis somewhat like navigating a thunder-spoutWith commonly an irresistibleforceurgingyouonyouhavegot tochooseyourowncourseeachmomentbetween the rocks and shallows and to get into itmoving forward alwayswiththeutmostpossiblemoderationandoftenholdingonifyoucanthatyoumayinspecttherapidsbeforeyouBy the Indians direction we took an old path on the south side whichappearedtokeepdownthestreamthoughataconsiderabledistancefromitcuttingoffbendsperhapstoSecondLakehavingfirsttakenthecoursefromthemapwith a compasswhichwas northeasterly for safety It was awildwood-pathwithafewtracksofoxenwhichhadbeendrivenoveritprobablyto someold campclearing forpasturagemingledwith the tracksofmoosewhichhadlatelyuseditWekeptonsteadilyforaboutanhourwithoutputtingdownourpacksoccasionallywindingaroundorclimbingoverafallen treefor themostpart faroutof sight andhearingof the river till afterwalkingaboutthreemilesweweregladtofindthatthepathcametotheriveragainatanoldcampgroundwheretherewasasmallopeningintheforestatwhichwepausedSwiftlyastheshallowandrockyriverranhereacontinuousrapidwithdancingwavesIsawasIsatontheshorea longstringofsheldrakeswhichsomethingscared runup theopposite sideof thestreambymewiththesameeasethattheycommonlydiddownitjusttouchingthesurfaceofthewavesandgettinganimpulsefromthemastheyflowedfromunderthembuttheysooncamebackdrivenbytheIndianwhohadfallenalittlebehinduson

accountofthewindingsHeshotroundapointjustaboveandcametolandbyuswithconsiderablewaterinhiscanoeHehadfounditashesaidverystrongwaterandhadbeenobligedtolandoncebeforetoemptyoutwhathehadtakeninHecomplainedthatitstrainedhimtopaddlesohardinordertokeephis canoe straight in its course havingnoone in thebows to aidhimand shallow as itwas said that itwould be no joke to upset there for theforceofthewaterwassuchthathehadasliefIwouldstrikehimovertheheadwithapaddleashavethatwaterstrikehimSeeinghimcomeoutofthatgapwasasifyoushouldpourwaterdownaninclinedandzigzagtroughthendropanutshellintoitandtakingashortcuttothebottomgetthereintimetoseeitcomeoutnotwithstandingtherushandtumultrightsideupandonlypartlyfullofwaterAfteramomentsbreathing-spacewhileIheldhiscanoehewassoonoutofsightagainaroundanotherbendandweshoulderingourpacksresumedourcourseWedidnotatoncefallintoourpathagainbutmadeourwaywithdifficultyalongtheedgeoftherivertillatlengthstrikinginlandthroughtheforestwerecovered itBeforegoing amileweheard the Indian calling tousHehadcome up through the woods and along the path to find us having reachedsufficientlysmoothwatertowarranthistakingusinTheshorewasaboutonefourthofamiledistantthroughadensedarkforestandasheledusbacktoitwindingrapidlyabouttotherightandleftIhadthecuriositytolookdowncarefully and found that hewas followinghis steps backward I could onlyoccasionallyperceivehis trail inthemossandyethedidnotappeartolookdownnorhesitateaninstantbutledusoutexactlytohiscanoeThissurprisedmeforwithoutacompassor thesightornoiseof theriver toguideuswecould not have kept our coursemanyminutes and could have retraced ourstepsbutashortdistancewithagreatdealofpainsandveryslowlyusingalaboriouscircumspectionButitwasevidentthathecouldgobackthroughtheforestwhereverhehadbeenduringthedayAfterthisroughwalkinginthedarkwoodsitwasanagreeablechangetoglidedowntherapidriverinthecanoeoncemoreThisriverwhichwasaboutthesizeofourAssabet(inConcord)thoughstillveryswiftwasalmostperfectlysmoothhereandshowedaveryvisibledeclivitya regularly inclinedplaneforseveralmileslikeamirrorsetalittleaslantonwhichwecoasteddownThis very obvious regular descent particularly plain when I regarded thewater-line against the shoresmade a singular impression onmewhich theswiftnessofourmotionprobablyenhancedso thatweseemedtobeglidingdown a much steeper declivity than we were and that we could not saveourselves from rapids and falls if we should suddenly come to them Mycompanion did not perceive this slope but I have a surveyors eyes and I

satisfiedmyself that itwas no ocular illusionYou could tell at a glance onapproaching such a river which way the water flowed though you mightperceivenomotionIobservedtheangleatwhichalevellinewouldstrikethesurfaceandcalculatedtheamountoffall inarodwhichdidnotneedtoberemarkablygreattoproducethiseffectItwasveryexhilaratingandtheperfectionoftravelingquiteunlikefloatingonourdeadConcordRiverthecoastingdownthisinclinedmirrorwhichwasnow and then gently winding down a mountain indeed between twoevergreenforestsedgedwithloftydeadwhitepinessometimesslantedhalf-way over the stream and destined soon to bridge it I saw some monstersthere nearly destitute of branches and scarcely diminishing in diameter foreightyorninetyfeetAswethussweptalongourIndianrepeatedinadeliberateanddrawlingtonethewordsDanielWebstergreatlawyerapparentlyremindedofhimbythenameof the stream andhe describedhis calling on himonce inBoston atwhathesupposedwashisboarding-houseHehadnobusinesswithhimbutmerelywenttopayhisrespectsasweshouldsayInanswertoourquestionshedescribedhispersonwellenoughItwasonthedayafterWebsterdeliveredhisBunkerHillorationwhichIbelievePolisheardThefirsttimehecalledhewaited till he was tired without seeing him and then went away The nexttimehesawhimgobythedooroftheroominwhichhewaswaitingseveraltimes in his shirt-sleeves without noticing him He thought that if he hadcometoseeIndianstheywouldnothavetreatedhimsoAtlengthafterverylongdelayhecameinwalkedtowardhimandaskedinaloudvoicegrufflyWhatdoyouwantandhethinkingatfirstbythemotionofhishandthathewasgoingtostrikehimsaidtohimselfYoudbettertakecareifyoutrythatIshallknowwhattodoHedidnotlikehimanddeclaredthatallhesaidwas not worth talk about a musquash We suggested that probably MrWebsterwasverybusyandhadagreatmanyvisitorsjustthenComing to falls and rapidsoureasyprogresswas suddenly terminatedTheIndianwentalongshoretoinspectthewaterwhileweclimbedovertherockspickingberriesThepeculiargrowthofblueberriesonthetopsoflargerocksheremade the impression of high land and indeed this was the Height-of-LandStreamWhentheIndiancamebackheremarkedYougottowalkverstrongwaterSo takingouthiscanoehe launcheditagainbelowthefallsandwassoonoutofsightAtsuchtimeshewouldstepintothecanoetakeuphispaddleandwithanairofmysterystartofflookingfardown-streamandkeeping his own counsel as if absorbing all the intelligence of forest andstream into himself but I sometimes detected a little fun in his facewhichcould yield tomy sympathetic smile for hewas thoroughly good-humoredWemeanwhile scrambledalong the shorewithourpackswithout anypath

ThiswasthelastofourboatingforthedayTheprevailing rockherewas akindof slate standingon its edges andmycompanionwhowasrecently fromCalifornia thought itexactly like that inwhichthegoldisfoundandsaidthatifhehadhadapanhewouldhavelikedtowashalittleofthesandhereTheIndiannowgotalongmuchfasterthanweandwaitedforusfromtimetotime I found here the only cool spring that I drank at anywhere on thisexcursion a little water filling a hollow in the sandy bank It was a quitememorableevent anddue to theelevationof thecountry forwherever elsewehadbeenthewaterintheriversandthestreamsemptyinginwasdeadandwarmcomparedwiththatofamountainousregionItwasverybadwalkingalongtheshoreoverfallenanddriftedtreesandbushesandrocksfromtimetotimeswingingourselvesroundoverthewaterorelsetakingtoagravelbarorgoinginlandAtoneplacetheIndianbeingaheadIwasobligedtotakeoffallmyclothesinordertofordasmallbutdeepstreamemptyinginwhilemycompanionwhowasinlandfoundarudebridgehighupinthewoodsandIsawnomoreofhimforsometimeIsawthereveryfreshmoosetracksfoundanewgoldenrodtome(perhapsSolidagothyrsoidea)andIpassedonewhitepine logwhichhad lodged in the forestnear theedgeof thestreamwhichwasquitefivefeetindiameteratthebuttProbablyitssizedetaineditShortlyafterthisIovertooktheIndianattheedgeofsomeburntlandwhichextended three or four miles at least beginning about three miles aboveSecondLakewhichwewereexpectingtoreachthatnightandwhichisabouttenmilesfromTelosLakeThisburntregionwasstillmorerockythanbeforebut though comparatively open we could not yet see the lake Not havingseenmycompanionforsometimeIclimbedwiththeIndianasingularhighrockontheedgeoftheriverforminganarrowridgeonlyafootortwowideattopinordertolookforhimandaftercallingmanytimesIatlengthheardhimanswerfromaconsiderabledistanceinlandhehavingtakenatrailwhichledofffromtheriverperhapsdirectlytothelakeandwasnowinsearchoftheriveragainSeeingamuchhigherrockof thesamecharacteraboutonethirdofamilefarthereastordown-streamIproceededtowarditthroughtheburnt land inorder to look for the lake from its summit supposing that theIndianwouldkeepdownthestreaminhiscanoeandhallooingall thewhilethat my companion might join me on the way Before we came together Inoticed where a moose which possibly I had scared by my shouting hadapparentlyjustrunalongalargerottentrunkofapinewhichmadeabridgethirtyorfortyfeetlongoverahollowasconvenientforhimasformeThetrackswereaslargeasthoseofanoxbutanoxcouldnothavecrossedthereThisburntlandwasanexceedinglywildanddesolateregionJudgingbytheweedsandsprouts itappearedtohavebeenburntabout twoyearsbeforeIt

wascoveredwithcharred trunkseitherprostrateorstandingwhichcrockedourclothesandhandsandwecouldnoteasilyhavedistinguishedabeartherebyhiscolorGreatshellsoftreessometimesunburntwithoutorburntononesideonlybutblackwithinstoodtwentyorfortyfeethighThefirehadrunupinsideasinachimneyleavingthesap-woodSometimeswecrossedarockyravine fifty feetwide on a fallen trunk and therewere great fields of fire-weed (Epilobium angustifolium) on all sides themost extensive that I eversaw which presented great masses of pink Intermixed with these wereblueberryandraspberrybushesHavingcrosseda second rocky ridge like the firstwhen Iwasbeginning toascend the third the Indian whom I had left on the shore some fifty rodsbehind beckoned tome to come to him but Imade sign that Iwould firstascend the highest rock before me whence I expected to see the lakeMycompanionaccompaniedmetothetopThiswasformedjust liketheothersBeingstruckwiththeperfectparallelismofthesesingularrockhillshowevermuchonemightbeinadvanceofanotherItookoutmycompassandfoundthat they laynorthwest and southeast the rockbeingon its edge and sharpedges theywereThisone to speak frommemorywasperhaps a thirdof amile in length but quite narrow rising gradually from the northwest to theheightofabouteightyfeetbutsteeponthesoutheastendThesouthwestsidewas as steep as anordinary roof or aswecould safely climb thenortheastwasanabruptprecipicefromwhichyoucouldjumpcleantothebottomnearwhichtheriverflowedwhiletheleveltopoftheridgeonwhichyouwalkedalongwasonlyfromonetothreeorfourfeetinwidthForarudeillustrationtakethehalfofapearcutintwolengthwiselayitonitsflatsidethestemtothenorthwestandthenhalveitverticallyinthedirectionofitslengthkeepingthesouthwesthalfSuchwasthegeneralformThere was a remarkable series of these great rock-waves revealed by theburning breakers as it were No wonder that the river that found its waythroughthemwasrapidandobstructedbyfallsNodoubttheabsenceofsoilon these rocks or its drynesswhere therewas any caused this tobe averythoroughburningWecouldsee the lakeover thewoods twoor threemilesaheadandthattherivermadeanabruptturnsouthwardaroundthenorthwestendofthecliffonwhichwestoodoralittleaboveussothatwehadcutoffabend and that therewas an important fall in it a short distance belowus IcouldseethecanoeahundredrodsbehindbutnowontheoppositeshoreandsupposedthattheIndianhadconcludedtotakeoutandcarryroundsomebadrapidsonthatsideandthatthatmightbewhathehadbeckonedtomeforbutafterwaiting awhile I could still seenothingof him and I observed tomycompanion that Iwonderedwherehewas thoughIbegantosuspect thathehadgoneinlandtolookforthelakefromsomehilltoponthatsideaswehaddoneThisprovedtobethecaseforafterIhadstartedtoreturntothecanoeI

heardafainthallooanddescriedhimonthetopofadistantrockyhillonthatsideButas aftera long timehadelapsed I still sawhiscanoe in the sameplaceandhehadnot returned to itandappeared innohurry todosoandmoreoverasIrememberedthathehadpreviouslybeckonedtomeIthoughtthat theremightbe somethingmore todelayhim than Iknewandbegan toreturn northwest along the ridge toward the angle in the river MycompanionwhohadjustbeenseparatedfromusandhadevencontemplatedthenecessityofcampingalonewishingtohusbandhisstepsandyettokeepwithusinquiredwhereIwasgoingtowhichIansweredthatIwasgoingfarenoughbacktocommunicatewiththeIndianandthatthenIthoughtwehadbettergoalongtheshoretogetherandkeephiminsightWhenwereached theshore the Indianappeared fromout thewoodson theopposite side but on account of the roar of the water it was difficult tocommunicatewithhimHekeptalongtheshorewestwardtohiscanoewhilewe stopped at the angle where the stream turned southward around theprecipiceIagainsaidtomycompanionthatwewouldkeepalongtheshoreand keep the Indian in sightWe started to do so being close together theIndian behind us having launched his canoe again but just then I saw thelatterwhohadcrossedtooursidefortyorfiftyrodsbehindbeckoningtomeandIcalledtomycompanionwhohadjustdisappearedbehindlargerocksatthepointoftheprecipicethreeorfourrodsbeforemeonhiswaydownthestreamthatIwasgoingtohelptheIndianamomentIdidsomdashhelpedgetthecanoeoverafalllyingwithmybreastoverarockandholdingoneendwhilehe received it belowmdashandwithin tenor fifteenminutes atmost IwasbackagainatthepointwheretheriverturnedsouthwardinordertocatchupwithmycompanionwhilePolisglideddowntheriveraloneparallelwithmeButtomy surprisewhen I rounded the precipice though the shorewas bare oftreeswithoutrocksforaquarterofamileatleastmycompanionwasnottobe seen It was as if he had sunk into the earth This was the moreunaccountable to me because I knew that his feet were since our swampwalkvery sore and thathewished tokeepwith theparty andbesides thiswas very bad walking climbing over or about the rocks I hastened alonghallooing and searching for him thinking he might be concealed behind arockyetdoubtingifhehadnottakentheothersideoftheprecipicebuttheIndianhadgotalongstillfasterinhiscanoetillhewasarrestedbythefallsaboutaquarterofamilebelowHethenlandedandsaidthatwecouldgonofartherthatnightThesunwassettingandonaccountoffallsandrapidsweshouldbeobligedtoleavethisriverandcarryagoodwayintoanotherfarthereastThefirstthingthenwastofindmycompanionforIwasnowverymuchalarmedabouthimandIsenttheIndianalongtheshoredown-streamwhichbegan to be covered with unburnt wood again just below the falls while Isearched backward about the precipice which we had passed The Indian

showed some unwillingness to exert himself complaining that hewas verytired in consequence of his dayswork that it had strained him verymuchgettingdownsomanyrapidsalonebuthewentoffcallingsomewhatlikeanowlIrememberedthatmycompanionwasnear-sightedandIfearedthathehadeitherfallenfromtheprecipiceorfaintedandsunkdownamidtherocksbeneath it I shouted and searched above and below this precipice in thetwilight till I could not see expecting nothing less than to find his bodybeneathitForhalfanhourIanticipatedandbelievedonlytheworstIthoughtwhatIshoulddothenextdayifIdidnotfindhimwhatIcoulddoinsuchawildernessandhowhisrelativeswouldfeelifIshouldreturnwithouthimIfelt that if he were really lost away from the river there it would be adesperateundertakingtofindhimandwhereweretheywhocouldhelpyouWhat would it be to raise the country where there were only two or threecampstwentyorthirtymilesapartandnoroadandperhapsnobodyathomeYetwemusttrytheharderthelesstheprospectofsuccessIrusheddownfromthisprecipicetothecanoeinordertofiretheIndiansgunbutfoundthatmycompanionhadthecapsIwasstillthinkingofgettingitoffwhentheIndianreturnedHehadnotfoundhimbuthesaidthathehadseenhistracksonceortwicealongtheshoreThisencouragedmeverymuchHeobjectedtofiringthegunsayingthatifmycompanionhearditwhichwasnotlikelyonaccountoftheroarofthestreamitwouldtempthimtocometowardusandhemightbreakhisneckinthedarkForthesamereasonwerefrainedfromlightingafireonthehighestrockIproposedthatweshouldbothkeepdownthestreamtothelakeorthatIshouldgoatanyratebuttheIndiansaidNousecantdoanythingin thedarkcomemorning thenwefind emNoharmmdashhemakeemcampNobadanimalsherenogristlybearssuchasinCalifornia where hes beenmdashwarm nightmdashhe well off as you and I IconsideredthatifhewaswellhecoulddowithoutusHehadjustlivedeightyearsinCaliforniaandhadplentyofexperiencewithwildbeastsandwildermenwaspeculiarly accustomed tomake journeysof great length but if heweresickordeadhewasnearwherewewereThedarknessinthewoodswasby this so thick that it alonedecided thequestionWemustcampwherewewereIknewthathehadhisknapsackwithblanketsandmatchesandifwellwouldfarenoworsethanweexceptthathewouldhavenosuppernorsocietyThis side of the river being so encumbered with rocks we crossed to theeasternorsmoothershoreandproceededtocamptherewithin twoor threerods of the falls We pitched no tent but lay on the sand putting a fewhandfulsofgrass and twigsunderus therebeingnoevergreenat handForfuelwehadsomeofthecharredstumpsOurvariousbagsofprovisionshadgotquitewetintherapidsandIarrangedthemaboutthefiretodryThefallclosebywastheprincipaloneonthisstreamanditshooktheearthunderusIt was a cool because dewy night the more so probably owing to the

nearness of the falls The Indian complained a good deal and thoughtafterwardthathegotacoldtherewhichoccasionedamoreseriousillnessWewerenotmuch troubledbymosquitoesat any rate I layawakeagooddealfrom anxiety but unaccountably to myself was at length comparatively ateaserespectinghimAtfirstIhadapprehendedtheworstbutnowIhadlittledoubtbutthatIshouldfindhiminthemorningFromtimetotimeIfanciedthat I heardhisvoice calling through the roarof the falls from theoppositeside of the river but it is doubtful if we could have heard him across thestream there Sometimes I doubted whether the Indian had really seen histracks sincehemanifestedanunwillingness tomakemuchofa search andthenmyanxietyreturnedIt was the most wild and desolate region we had camped in where ifanywhere one might expect to meet with befitting inhabitants but I heardonlythesqueakofanighthawkflittingoverThemooninherfirstquarterintheforepartofthenightsettingoverthebarerockyhillsgarnishedwithtallcharredandhollowstumpsorshellsoftreesservedtorevealthedesolationTHURSDAYJuly30I aroused the Indian early this morning to go in search of our companionexpecting to find him within a mile or two farther down the stream TheIndianwantedhisbreakfastfirstbutIremindedhimthatmycompanionhadhadneitherbreakfastnorsupperWewereobligedfirsttocarryourcanoeandbaggageoverintoanotherstreamthemainEastBranchaboutthreefourthsofamiledistant forWebsterStreamwasno farthernavigableWewent twiceover this carry and the dewy bushes wet us through like water up to themiddle I hallooed in a high key from time to time though I had littleexpectationthatIcouldbeheardovertheroaroftherapidsandmoreoverwewerenecessarilyontheoppositesideofthestreamtohimIngoingoverthisportage the last time the Indianwhowas beforemewith the canoe on hisheadstumbledandfellheavilyonceandlayforamomentsilentasifinpainIhastilysteppedforwardtohelphimaskingifhewasmuchhurtbutafteramomentspausewithoutreplyinghesprangupandwentforwardHewasallthewaysubjecttotaciturnfitsbuttheywereharmlessonesWe had launched our canoe and gone but littleway down theEastBranchwhenIheardanansweringshoutfrommycompanionandsoonaftersawhimstandingonapointwheretherewasaclearingaquarterofamilebelowandthesmokeofhisfirewasrisingnearbyBeforeIsawhimInaturallyshoutedagain and again but the Indian curtly remarked Hehears you as if oncewas enough It was just below the mouth of Webster Stream When wearrived he was smoking his pipe and said that he had passed a prettycomfortablenightthoughitwasrathercoldonaccountofthedewIt appeared that when we stood together the previous evening and I was

shoutingtotheIndianacrosstheriverhebeingnear-sightedhadnotseentheIndiannorhiscanoeandwhenIwentbacktotheIndiansassistancedidnotseewhichwayIwentandsupposedthatwewerebelowandnotabovehimandsomakinghaste tocatchupheranawayfromusHavingreached thisclearingamileormorebelowourcampthenightovertookhimandhemadeafireinalittlehollowandlaydownbyitinhisblanketstillthinkingthatwewereaheadofhimHethoughtitlikelythathehadheardtheIndiancalloncetheeveningbeforebutmistookitforanowlHehadseenonebotanicalraritybefore itwasdarkmdashpurewhiteEpilobiumangustifoliumamidst the fieldsofpink ones in the burnt lands He had already stuck up the remnant of alumberersshirt foundonthepointonapolebythewatersideforasignalandattachedanotetoittoinformusthathehadgoneontothelakeandthatifhedidnotfindustherehewouldbebackinacoupleofhoursIfhehadnotfoundussoonhehadsomethoughtsofgoingback insearchof thesolitaryhunterwhomwehadmetatTelosLaketenmilesbehindandifsuccessfulhirehimtotakehimtoBangorButifthishunterhadmovedasfastaswehewouldhavebeentwentymilesoffbythistimeandwhocouldguessinwhatdirectionItwouldhavebeenlikelookingforaneedleinahaymowtosearchforhimin thesewoodsHehadbeenconsideringhowlonghecould liveonberriesaloneWesubstitutedforhisnoteacardcontainingournamesanddestinationandthedateofourvisitwhichPolisneatly inclosed in apieceofbirchbark tokeepitdryThishasprobablybeenreadbysomehunterorexplorererethisWeallhadgoodappetitesforthebreakfastwhichwemadehastetocookhereand then having partially dried our clothes we glided swiftly down thewindingstreamtowardSecondLakeAs the shores became flatter with frequent gravel and sand-bars and thestreammorewindinginthelowerlandnearthelakeelmsandashtreesmadetheirappearancealsothewildyellowlily(LiliumCanadense)someofwhosebulbsIcollectedforasoupOnsomeridgestheburntlandextendedasfarasthe lakeThiswas a very beautiful lake two or threemiles longwith highmountainsonthesouthwestsidethe(asourIndiansaid)Nerlumskeechticooki e Deadwater Mountain It appears to be the same called CarbuncleMountainonthemapAccordingtoPolisitextendsinseparateelevationsallalong this and thenext lakewhich ismuch largerThe lake too I think iscalledbythesamenameorperhapswiththeadditionofgamocormoocThemorningwasabrightoneandperfectlystillandserenethelakeassmoothasglasswemaking theonly ripple aswepaddled into itThedarkmountainsabout itwere seen through aglaucousmist and thebrilliantwhite stemsofcanoebirchesmingledwiththeotherwoodsarounditThewoodthrushsangon the distant shore and the laugh of some loons sporting in a concealed

westernbayasif inspiredbythemorningcamedistinctoverthelaketousandwhatwasmoreremarkabletheechowhichranroundthelakewasmuchlouderthantheoriginalnoteprobablybecausetheloonbeinginaregularlycurvingbayunderthemountainwewereexactlyinthefocusofmanyechoesthesoundbeingreflectedlikelightfromaconcavemirrorThebeautyofthescenemayhavebeenenhancedtooureyesbythefactthatwehadjustcometogether again after a night of some anxiety This reminded me of theAmbejijis Lake on theWestBranchwhich I crossed inmy first coming toMaine Having paddled down three quarters of the lake we came to astandstillwhilemycompanionletdownforfishAwhite(orwhitish)gullsaton a rock which rose above the surface in mid-lake not far off quite inharmonywiththesceneandaswerestedthereinthewarmsunweheardoneloudcrushingorcracklingsoundfromtheforestfortyorfiftyrodsdistantasof a stick broken by the foot of some large animal Even this was aninterestingincidentthereInthemidstofourdreamsofgiantlaketrouteventhensupposedtobenibblingourfishermendrewupadiminutiveredperchandwetookupourpaddlesagaininhasteItwas not apparentwhere the outlet of this lakewas andwhile the IndianthoughtitwasinonedirectionIthoughtitwasinanotherHesaidIbetyoufour-penceitistherebuthestillheldoninmydirectionwhichprovedtobethe right oneAswewere approaching the outlet it being still early in theforenoonhesuddenlyexclaimedMoosemooseandtoldustobestillHeputacaponhisgunandstandingupinthesternrapidlypushedthecanoestraighttowardtheshoreandthemooseItwasacowmooseaboutthirtyrodsoffstandinginthewaterbythesideoftheoutletpartlybehindsomefallentimberandbushesandat thatdistanceshedidnot lookvery largeShewasflapping her large ears and from time to time poking off the flieswith hernose from somepart of her body She did not appearmuch alarmed by ourneighborhoodonlyoccasionallyturnedherheadandlookedstraightatusandthengaveherattentiontothefliesagainAsweapproachednearershegotoutofthewaterstoodhigherandregardedusmoresuspiciouslyPolispushedthecanoe steadily forward in the shallowwater and I for amoment forgot themooseinattendingtosomeprettyrose-coloredPolygonumsjustrisingabovethesurfacebutthecanoesoongroundedinthemudeightortenrodsdistantfrom the moose and the Indian seized his gun and prepared to fire Afterstandingstillamomentsheturnedslowlyasusualsoastoexposehersideandhe improved thismoment to fireoverourheadsShe thereuponmovedoff eight or ten rods at a moderate pace across a shallow bay to an oldstanding-placeofhersbehindsomefallenredmaplesontheoppositeshoreand there she stood still again a dozen or fourteen rods from us while theIndian hastily loaded and fired twice at her without her moving MycompanionwhopassedhimhiscapsandbulletssaidthatPoliswasasexcited

asaboyoffifteen thathishandtrembledandheonceputhis ramrodbackupside down This was remarkable for so experienced a hunter Perhaps hewasanxioustomakeagoodshotbeforeusThewhitehunterhadtoldmethatthe Indianswere not good shots because theywere excited though he saidthatwehadgotagoodhunterwithusTheIndiannowpushedquicklyandquietlybackandalongdistanceroundinorder to get into the outletmdashfor he had fired over the neck of a peninsulabetween itand the lakemdashtillweapproached theplacewhere themoosehadstoodwhenheexclaimedSheisagonerandwassurprisedthatwedidnotseeherassoonashedidThere tobesureshe layperfectlydeadwithhertonguehangingoutjustwhereshehadstoodtoreceivethelastshotslookingunexpectedlylargeandhorse-likeandwesawwherethebulletshadscarredthetreesUsingatapeIfoundthatthemoosemeasuredjustsixfeetfromtheshouldertothetipofthehoofandwaseightfeetlongasshelaySomeportionsofthebody for a foot in diameterwere almost coveredwith flies apparently thecommonflyofourwoodswithadarkspotonthewingandnottheverylargeones which occasionally pursued us in midstream though both are calledmoose-fliesPolispreparingtoskinthemooseaskedmetohelphimfindastoneonwhichtosharpenhislargeknifeItbeingallaflatalluvialgroundwherethemoosehadfallencoveredwithredmaplesetcthiswasnoeasymatterwesearchedfarandwidealongtimetillatlengthIfoundaflatkindofslate-stoneandsoon after he returnedwith a similar one onwhichhe soonmadehis knifeverysharpWhilehewasskinningthemooseIproceededtoascertainwhatkindoffishesweretobefoundinthesluggishandmuddyoutletThegreatestdifficultywastofindapoleItwasalmostimpossibletofindaslenderstraightpoletenortwelvefeetlonginthosewoodsYoumightsearchhalfanhourinvainTheyarecommonlysprucearbor-vitaeligfiretcshortstoutandbranchyanddonotmakegoodfish-polesevenafteryouhavepatientlycutoffalltheirtoughandscraggybranchesThefisheswereredperchandchivinThe Indian having cut off a large piece of sirloin the upper lip and thetonguewrappedtheminthehideandplacedtheminthebottomofthecanoeobservingthattherewasonemanmeaningtheweightofoneOurloadhadpreviouslybeenreducedsomethirtypoundsbutahundredpoundswerenowaddedmdasha serious additionwhichmade our quarters stillmore narrow andconsiderablyincreasedthedangeronthelakesandrapidsaswellasthelaborofthecarriesTheskinwasoursaccordingtocustomsincetheIndianwasinouremploybutwedidnotthinkofclaimingitHebeingaskillfuldresserofmoose-hideswouldmakeitworthsevenoreightdollarstohimasIwastold

HesaidthathesometimesearnedfiftyorsixtydollarsinadayatthemhehadkilledtenmooseinonedaythoughtheskinningandalltooktwodaysThiswas the way he had got his property There were the tracks of a calfthereabouts which he saidwould come by by and he could get it if wecaredtowaitbutIcastcoldwaterontheprojectWecontinuedalongtheoutlettowardGrandLakethroughaswampyregionbya longwindingandnarrowdeadwaterverymuchchokedupbywoodwherewewereobligedtolandsometimesinordertogetthecanoeoveralogItwashardtofindanychannelandwedidnotknowbutweshouldbelostintheswampItaboundedinducksasusualAtlengthwereachedGrandLakewhichtheIndiancalledMatungamookAt the head of this we saw coming in from the southwest with a sweepapparently from a gorge in themountains Trout Stream orUncardnerheesewhichnametheIndiansaidhadsomethingtodowithmountainsWe stopped to dine on an interesting high rocky island soon after enteringMatungamook Lake securing our canoe to the cliffy shore It is alwayspleasant to step from a boat on to a large rock or cliff Here was a goodopportunity to dry our dewy blankets on the open sunny rock Indians hadrecently camped here and accidentally burned over the western end of theisland and Polis picked up a gun-case of blue broadcloth and said that heknewtheIndianitbelongedtoandwouldcarryittohimHistribeisnotsolargebuthemayknowallitseffectsWeproceededtomakeafireandcookourdinneramidsomepineswhereourpredecessorshaddonethesamewhiletheIndianbusiedhimselfabouthismoose-hideontheshoreforhesaidthathethoughtitagoodplanforonetodoallthecookingieIsupposeifthatonewerenothimselfApeculiarevergreenoverhungour firewhichat firstglancelookedlikeapitchpine(Prigida)withleaveslittlemorethananinchlongspruce-likebutwefoundittobethePinusBanksianamdashBankssortheLabradorPinealsocalledscrubpinegraypineetcanewtreetousThesemust have been good specimens for several were thirty or thirty-five feethigh Richardson found it forty feet high and upward and states that theporcupinefeedsonitsbarkHerealsogrewtheredpine(Pinusresinosa)I sawwhere the Indians hadmade canoes in a little secluded hollow in thewoodsonthetopoftherockwheretheywereoutofthewindandlargepilesof whittlings remained This must have been a favorite resort for theirancestorsandindeedwefoundherethepointofanarrowheadsuchastheyhavenotusedfortwocenturiesandnowknownothowtomakeTheIndianpickingupastoneremarkedtomeThatverystrangelock(rock)Itwasapiece of hornstone which I told him his tribe had probably brought herecenturiesbeforetomakearrowheadsofHealsopickedupayellowishcurvedbonebythesideofourfireplaceandaskedmetoguesswhatitwasItwasone

of theupper incisorsof abeaveronwhich somepartyhad feastedwithinayearortwoIfoundalsomostoftheteethandtheskulletcWeheredinedonfriedmoose-meatOnewhowasmycompanioninmytwopreviousexcursionstothesewoodstells me that when hunting up the Caucomgomoc about two years ago hefoundhimself diningonedayonmoose-meatmud turtle trout andbeaverand he thought that there were few places in the world where these dishescouldeasilybebroughttogetherononetableAfter the almost incessant rapids and falls of theMadunkchunk (Height-of-Land or Webster Stream) we had just passed through the dead water ofSecondLakeandwerenowinthemuchlargerdeadwaterofGrandLakeandIthoughttheIndianwasentitledtotakeanextranaphereKtaadnnearwhichwe were to pass the next day is said to mean Highest Land So muchgeographyisthereintheirnamesTheIndiannavigatornaturallydistinguishesbyanamethosepartsofastreamwherehehasencounteredquickwaterandforksandagainthelakesandsmoothwaterwherehecanresthiswearyarmssince those are themost interesting andmore arable parts to himThe verysightoftheNerlumskeechticookorDeadwaterMountainsadaysjourneyoffovertheforestaswefirstsawthemmustawakeninhimpleasingmemoriesAndnotlessinterestingisittothewhitetravelerwhenheiscrossingaplacidlakeintheseout-of-the-waywoodsperhapsthinkingthatheisinsomesenseoneoftheearlierdiscoverersofittoberemindedthatitwasthuswellknownandsuitablynamedbyIndianhuntersperhapsathousandyearsagoAscending theprecipitous rockwhich formed this longnarrow island Iwassurprisedtofindthatitssummitwasanarrowridgewithaprecipiceononeside and that its axis of elevation extended from northwest to southeastexactly like thatof thegreat rocky ridgeat thecommencementof theBurntGround tenmiles northwesterlyThe same arrangement prevailed here andwecouldplainlyseethatthemountainridgesonthewestofthelaketrendedthesamewaySplendidlargeharebellsnoddedovertheedgeandinthecleftsofthecliffandtheblueberries(VacciniumCanadense)wereforthefirsttimereally abundant in the thin soil on its top There was no lack of themhenceforward on the East Branch There was a fine view hence over thesparklinglakewhichlookedpureanddeepandhadtwoorthreeinallrockyislands in it Our blankets being dry we set out again the Indian as usualhaving left his gazette on a tree This time it waswe three in a canoemycompanionsmokingWepaddledsouthwarddownthishandsomelakewhichappearedtoextendnearlyasfareastassouthkeepingnearthewesternshorejustoutsideasmallislandunderthedarkNerlumskeechticookMountainForIhadobservedonmymapthatthiswasthecourseItwasthreeorfourmilesacrossitItstruckmethattheoutlineofthismountainonthesouthwestofthe

lakeandofanotherbeyonditwasnotonlylikethatofthehugerockwavesofWebsterStreambutinthemainlikeKineoonMooseheadLakehavingasimilar but less abrupt precipice at the southeast end in short that all theprominenthillsandridgeshereaboutswerelargerorsmallerKineosandthatpossibly therewas such a relation betweenKineo and the rocks ofWebsterStreamTheIndiandidnotknowexactlywheretheoutletwaswhetherattheextremesouthwest angle ormore easterly and had asked to seemy plan at the laststopping-placebutIhadforgottentoshowittohimAsusualhewentfeelinghiswaybyamiddlecoursebetweentwoprobablepointsfromwhichhecoulddiverge eitherway at lastwithout losingmuch distance In approaching thesouthshoreasthecloudslookedgustyandthewavesranprettyhighwesosteeredas togetpartlyunder the leeofan island thoughatagreatdistancefromitIcouldnotdistinguishtheoutlettillwewerealmostinitandheardthewaterfallingoverthedamthereHere was a considerable fall and a very substantial dam but no sign of acabinorcampThehunterwhomwemetatTelosLakehadtoldusthattherewereplentyof trout here but at this hour theydidnot rise to thebait onlycousintroutfromtheverymidstoftherushingwatersTherearenotsomanyfishesintheseriversasintheConcordWhileweloiteredherePolistookoccasiontocutwithhisbigknifesomeofthehair fromhismoose-hide and so lightened andprepared it for drying InoticedatseveraloldIndiancampsin thewoodsthepileofhairwhichtheyhadcutfromtheirhidesHavingcarriedoverthedamhedarteddowntherapidsleavingustowalkforamileormorewhereforthemostparttherewasnopathbutverythickanddifficult traveling near the stream At length he would call to let us knowwherehewaswaitingforuswithhiscanoewhenonaccountofthewindingsofthestreamwedidnotknowwheretheshorewasbuthedidnotcalloftenenoughforgettingthatwewerenotIndiansHeseemedtobeverysavingofhisbreathmdashyethewouldbesurprisedifwewentbyordidnotstriketherightspotThiswasnotbecausehewasunaccommodatingbutaproofofsuperiormannersIndiansliketogetalongwiththeleastpossiblecommunicationandadoHewasreallypayingusagreatcomplimentall thewhile thinking thatwepreferredahinttoakickAt length climbing over thewillows and fallen treeswhen thiswas easierthantogoroundorunderthemweovertookthecanoeandglideddownthestreaminsmoothbutswiftwaterforseveralmilesIhereobservedagainasatWebsterStreamandonastill larger scale thenextday that the riverwasa

smooth and regularly inclined plane down which we coasted As we thusglidedalongwestartedthefirstblackduckswhichwehaddistinguishedWe decided to camp early to-night that we might have ample time beforedark so we stopped at the first favorable shore where there was a narrowgravelly beach on thewestern side some fivemiles below the outlet of thelakeItwasaninterestingspotwheretheriverbegantomakeagreatbendtothe east and the last of the peculiar moose-faced NerlumskeechticookMountainsnotfarsouthwestofGrandLakerosedarkinthenorthwestashortdistancebehind displaying its grayprecipitous southeast side butwe couldnotseethiswithoutcomingoutupontheshoreTwostepsfromthewateroneithersideandyoucometotheabruptbushyandrooty if not turfy edge of the bank four or five feet high where theinterminableforestbeginsasifthestreamhadbutjustcutitswaythroughitItissurprisingonsteppingashoreanywhereintothisunbrokenwildernesstoseesooftenatleastwithinafewrodsoftheriverthemarksoftheaxemadeby lumberers who have either camped here or driven logs past in previousspringsYouwillseeperchancewheregoingonthesameerrandthatyoudotheyhavecutlargechipsfromatallwhitepinestumpfortheirfireWhilewewerepitchingthecampandgettingsuppertheIndiancuttherestofthehairfrom his moose-hide and proceeded to extend it vertically on a temporaryframebetweentwosmalltreeshalfadozenfeetfromtheoppositesideofthefirelashingandstretchingitwitharbor-vitaeligbarkwhichwasalwaysathandandinthiscasewasstrippedfromoneofthetreesitwastiedtoAskingforanew kind of tea he made us some pretty good of the checkerberry(Gaultheriaprocumbens)whichcoveredthegrounddroppingalittlebunchofit tied up with cedar bark into the kettle but it was not quite equal to theChiogenesWecalledthisthereforeCheckerberry-TeaCampI was struck with the abundance of the Linnaeliga borealis checkerberry andChiogeneshispidulaalmosteverywhereintheMainewoodsThewintergreen(Chimaphila umbellata) was still in bloom here and clintonia berries wereabundant and ripeThis handsomeplant is one of themost common in thatforest We here first noticed the moose-wood in fruit on the banks Theprevailingtreeswerespruce(commonlyblack)arbor-vitaeligcanoebirch(blackash and elms beginning to appear) yellow birch red maple and a littlehemlockskulkingintheforestTheIndiansaidthatthewhitemaplepunkwasthe best for tinder that yellow birch punkwas pretty good but hardAftersupperheputonthemoosetongueandlipstoboilcuttingouttheseptumHeshowedmehowtowriteontheundersideofbirchbarkwithablacksprucetwigwhichishardandtoughandcanbebroughttoapointTheIndianwanderedoffintothewoodsashortdistancejustbeforenightandcoming back said Me found great treasuremdashfifty sixty dollars worth

WhatsthatweaskedSteeltrapsunderalogthirtyorfortyIdidntcountem I guess Indian workmdashworth three dollars apiece It was a singularcoincidence that he should have chanced to walk to and look under thatparticularloginthattracklessforestI saw chivin and chub in the stream when washing my hands but mycompaniontriedinvaintocatchthemIalsoheardthesoundofbullfrogsfromaswampontheoppositeside thinkingatfirst that theyweremooseaduckpaddled swiftly by and sitting in that dusky wilderness under that darkmountainbythebrightriverwhichwasfullofreflectedlightstillIheardthewoodthrushsingas ifnohighercivilizationcouldbeattainedBythis timethenightwasuponusYou commonlymake your camp just at sundown and are collectingwoodgetting your supper or pitching your tent while the shades of night aregathering around and adding to the already dense gloom of the forest Youhave no time to explore or look around you before it is dark You maypenetratehalfadozenrodsfartherintothattwilightwildernessaftersomedrybark to kindle your fire with and wonder what mysteries lie hidden stilldeeperinitsayattheendofalongdayswalkoryoumayrundowntotheshoreforadipperofwaterandgetaclearerviewforashortdistanceupordownthestreamandwhileyoustandthereseeafishleaporduckalightintheriverorhearawoodthrushorrobinsinginthewoodsThatisasifyouhadbeen to townorcivilizedpartsBut there isnosaunteringoff tosee thecountryandtenorfifteenrodsseemsagreatwayfromyourcompanionsandyoucomebackwiththeairofamuch-traveledmanasfromalongjourneywithadventurestorelatethoughyoumayhaveheardthecracklingofthefireall thewhilemdashand at a hundred rods youmight be lost past recovery andhavetocampoutItisallmossyandmooseyInsomeofthosedensefirandsprucewoods there is hardly room for the smoke to go up The trees are astanding night and every fir and sprucewhich you fell is a plume pluckedfromnightsravenwingThenatnightthegeneralstillnessismoreimpressivethananysoundbutoccasionallyyouhearthenoteofanowlfartherornearerin the woods and if near a lake the semihuman cry of the loons at theirunearthlyrevelsTo-nighttheIndianlaybetweenthefireandhisstretchedmoose-hidetoavoidthemosquitoesIndeedhealsomadeasmallsmokyfireofdampleavesathisheadandhisfeetandthenasusualrolleduphisheadinhisblanketWewithourveilsandourwashweretolerablycomfortablebutitwouldbedifficulttopursueanysedentaryoccupationinthewoodsatthisseasonyoucannotseetoreadmuchbythelightofafirethroughaveilintheeveningnorhandlepencilandpaperwellwithglovesoranointedfingersFRIDAYJuly31

TheIndiansaidYouandIkillmooselastnightthereforeuseembestwoodAlways use hard wood to cook moose-meat His best wood was rockmapleHecastthemooseslipintothefiretoburnthehairoffandthenrolledit upwith themeat to carry alongObserving thatwewere sitting down tobreakfastwithoutanyporkhesaidwithaverygrave lookMewantsomefatsohewastoldthathemighthaveasmuchashewouldfryWehadsmoothbutswiftwaterforaconsiderabledistancewhereweglidedrapidly along scaring up ducks and kingfishers But as usual our smoothprogresserelongcametoanendandwewereobligedtocarrycanoeandallabouthalfamiledowntherightbankaroundsomerapidsorfallsItrequiredsharpeyessometimesto tellwhichsidewasthecarrybeforeyouwentoverthe falls but Polis never failed to land us rightly The raspberries wereparticularly abundant and largehere and all handswent to eating them theIndianremarkingontheirsizeOftenonbarerockycarriesthetrailwassoindistinctthatIrepeatedlylostitbutwhenIwalkedbehindhimIobservedthathecouldkeepitalmostlikeahoundandrarelyhesitatedorifhepausedamomentonabarerockhiseyeimmediatelydetectedsomesignwhichwouldhaveescapedmeFrequentlywefoundnopathatallattheseplacesandweretohimunaccountablydelayedHewouldonlysayitwasverstrangeWehadheardof aGrandFall on this stream and thought that each fallwecametomustbeitbutafterchristeningseveralinsuccessionwiththisnamewe gave up the search There were more Grand or Petty Falls than I canrememberIcannottellhowmanytimeswehadtowalkonaccountoffallsorrapidsWewereexpectingall thewhile that theriverwouldtakeafinal leapandget tosmooth water but there was no improvement this forenoon However thecarrieswereanagreeablevarietySosurelyaswesteppedoutofthecanoeandstretched our legs we found ourselves in a blueberry and raspberry gardeneachsideofourrockytrailaroundthefallsbeinglinedwithoneorbothTherewasnotacarryonthemainEastBranchwherewedidnotfindanabundanceofboththeseberriesfortheseweretherockiestplacesandpartiallyclearedsuchastheseplantspreferandtherehadbeennonetogatherthefinestbeforeusIn our three journeys over the carriesmdashforwewere obliged to go over thegroundthreetimeswheneverthecanoewastakenoutmdashwedidfulljusticetotheberriesandtheywerejustwhatwewantedtocorrecttheeffectofourhardbread and pork diet Another name for making a portage would have beengoinga-berryingWealsofoundafewamelanchierorserviceberriesthoughmostwere abortive but they held on rathermore generally than they do inConcordTheIndiancalledthempemoymenukandsaidthattheyboremuch

fruit in some places He sometimes also ate the northern wild red cherriessayingthattheyweregoodmedicinebuttheywerescarcelyedibleWebathedanddinedatthefootofoneofthesecarriesItwastheIndianwhocommonlyremindedus that itwasdinner-time sometimesevenby turning theprow totheshoreHeoncemadean indirectbut lengthyapologybysaying thatwemight think it strange but that one who worked hard all day was veryparticulartohavehisdinneringoodseasonAtthemostconsiderablefallonthis streamwhen Iwaswalking over the carry close behind the Indian heobserveda trackon the rockwhichwasbut slightlycoveredwith soil andstoopingmutteredcaribouWhenwe returnedheobservedamuch largertrack near the same place where some animals foot had sunk into a smallhollowin therockpartly filledwithgrassandearthandheexclaimedwithsurprise What that Well what is it I asked Stooping and laying hishand in it he answeredwith amysterious air and in a halfwhisper Devil[thatisIndianDevilorcougar]mdashledgesaboutheremdashverybadanimalmdashpullemrocksall topiecesHowlongsince itwasmadeIaskedTo-dayoryesterdaysaidheButwhenIaskedhimafterwardifhewassureitwasthedevils track he said he did not know I had been told that the scream of acougar was heard about Ktaadn recently and we were not far from thatmountainWespentatleasthalfthetimeinwalkingto-dayandthewalkingwasasbadasusualfortheIndianbeingalonecommonlyrandownfarbelowthefootofthecarriesbeforehewaitedforusThecarry-pathsthemselvesweremorethanusually indistinctoften the routebeing revealedonlyby thecountlesssmallholes in the fallen timbermade by the tacks in the drivers boots orwherethere was a slight trail we did not find it It was a tangled and perplexingthicketthroughwhichwestumbledandthreadedourwayandwhenwehadfinishedamileofitourstarting-pointseemedfarawayWeweregladthatwehadnotgottowalktoBangoralongthebanksofthisriverwhichwouldbeajourneyofmorethanahundredmilesThinkofthedensenessoftheforestthefallentreesandrocksthewindingsoftheriverthestreamsemptyinginandthefrequentswampstobecrossedItmadeyoushudderYettheIndianfromtime to time pointed out to uswhere he had thus crept along day after daywhenhewasaboyoftenandinastarvingconditionHehadbeenhuntingfarnorthofthiswithtwogrownIndiansThewintercameonunexpectedlyearlyand the ice compelled them to leave their canoe at Grand Lake and walkdownthebankTheyshoulderedtheirfursandstartedforOldtownThesnowwasnotdeepenoughforsnowshoesortocovertheinequalitiesofthegroundPoliswas soon tooweak to carry anyburden but hemanaged to catchoneotterThiswasthemosttheyallhadtoeatonthisjourneyandherememberedhowgoodtheyellowlilyrootsweremadeintoasoupwiththeotteroilHeshared this food equallywith the other two but being so small he suffered

much more than they He waded through the Mattawamkeag at its mouthwhenitwasfreezingcoldandcameuptohischinandhebeingveryweakandemaciatedexpectedtobesweptawayThefirsthousewhichtheyreachedwasatLincolnandthereaboutstheymetawhiteteamsterwithsupplieswhoseeingtheirconditiongavethemasmuchofhisloadastheycouldeatForsixmonthsaftergettinghomehewasvery lowanddidnotexpect to liveandwasperhapsalwaystheworseforitWecouldnotfindmuchmorethanhalfofthisdaysjourneyonourmaps(theMap of the Public Lands of Maine and Massachusetts and ColtonsRailroad and Township Map of Maine which copies the former) By themapstherewasnotmorethanfifteenmilesbetweencampsattheoutsideandyetwehadbeenbusilyprogressingalldayandmuchofthetimeveryrapidlyForsevenoreightmilesbelowthatsuccessionofGrandfallstheaspectofthebanksaswellasthecharacterofthestreamwaschangedAfterpassingatributary from the northeast perhaps Bowlin Stream we had good swiftsmooth water with a regular slope such as I have described Low grassybanksandmuddyshoresbeganManyelmsaswellasmaplesandmoreashtreesoverhungthestreamandsupplantedthespruceMy lily roots having been lost when the canoe was taken out at a carry IlandedlateintheafternoonatalowandgrassyplaceamidmaplestogathermoreItwasslowworkgrubbingthemupamidthesandandthemosquitoeswereallthewhilefeastingonmeMosquitoesblackfliesetcpursuedusinmid-channelandweweregladsometimestogetintoviolentrapidsforthenweescapedthemAred-headedwoodpeckerflewacrosstheriverandtheIndianremarkedthatitwasgoodtoeatAsweglidedswiftlydowntheinclinedplaneoftheriveragreatcatowllauncheditselfawayfromastumponthebankandflewheavilyacross the streamand the Indian asusual imitated itsnoteSoon the samebirdflewback infrontofusandweafterwardspassed itperchedona treeSoon afterward awhite-headed eagle sailed down the stream before usWedrovehimseveralmileswhilewewerelookingforagoodplacetocampforweexpectedtobeovertakenbyashowermdashandstillwecoulddistinguishhimbyhiswhitetailsailingawayfromtimetotimefromsometreebytheshorestillfartherdownthestreamSomeshecorwaysbeingsurprisedbyusapartofthem dived andwe passed directly over them and could trace their coursehereandtherebyabubbleonthesurfacebutwedidnotseethemcomeupPolis detectedonce or twicewhat he called a tow road an indistinct pathleadingintotheforestInthemeanwhilewepassedthemouthoftheSebooison our leftThis did not look so large as our streamwhichwas indeed themainone Itwassome timebeforewe foundacamping-place for theshorewaseithertoograssyandmuddywheremosquitoesaboundedortoosteepa

hillside The Indian said that there were but few mosquitoes on a steephillsideWeexaminedagoodplacewheresomebodyhadcampedalongtimebutitseemedpitifultooccupyanoldsitewheretherewassomuchroomtochoosesowecontinuedonWeatlengthfoundaplacetoourmindsonthewest bank about amile below themouth of the Seboois where in a verydensesprucewoodaboveagravellyshorethereseemedtobebutfewinsectsThetreesweresothickthatwewereobligedtoclearaspacetobuildourfireandliedowninandtheyoungsprucetreesthatwereleftwerelikethewallofanapartment risingaroundusWewereobliged topullourselvesupasteepbank to get there But the place which you have selected for your campthough never so rough and grim begins at once to have its attractions andbecomesaverycentreofcivilization toyouHome ishomebe itneversohomelyItturnedoutthatthemosquitoesweremorenumerousherethanwehadfoundthem before and the Indian complained a good deal though he lay as thenightbeforebetweenthreefiresandhisstretchedhideAsIsatonastumpbythe firewithaveilandgloveson trying to readheobservedImakeyoucandleandinaminutehetookapieceofbirchbarkabouttwoincheswideandrolled ithard likeanallumettefifteen inches long lit itandfixed itbytheotherendhorizontallyinasplitstickthreefeethighstuckitinthegroundturning the blazing end to thewind and tellingme to snuff it from time totimeItansweredthepurposeofacandleprettywellI noticed as I had done before that therewas a lull among themosquitoesabout midnight and that they began again in the morning Nature is thusmercifulButapparently theyneed restaswellasweFew ifanycreaturesareequallyactiveallnightAssoonasitwaslightIsawthroughmyveilthattheinsideofthetentaboutourheadswasquiteblackenedwithmyriadseachoneof theirwingswhenflyingashasbeencalculatedvibratingsomethreethousand times in aminute and their combined humwas almost as bad toendureastheirstingsIhadanuncomfortablenightonthisaccountthoughIamnotsurethatonesucceededinhisattempttostingmeWedidnotsuffersomuch from insects on this excursion as the statements of some who haveexploredthesewoodsinmidsummerledustoanticipateYetIhavenodoubtthatat someseasonsand insomeplaces theyareamuchmoreseriouspestTheJesuitHieromeLalemantofQuebecreportingthedeathofFatherReniMenardwhowasabandonedlosthiswayanddiedinthewoodsamongtheOntarios near Lake Superior in 1661 dwells chiefly on his probablesufferings from theattacksofmosquitoeswhen tooweak todefendhimselfadding that there was a frightful number of them in those parts and soinsupportablesayshethatthethreeFrenchmenwhohavemadethatvoyageaffirmthattherewasnoothermeansofdefendingonesselfbuttorunalwayswithoutstoppinganditwasevennecessaryfortwoofthemtobeemployedin

drivingoffthesecreatureswhilethethirdwantedtodrinkotherwisehecouldnothavedoneitIhavenodoubtthatthiswassaidingoodfaithAugust1I caught two or three large red chivin (Leuciscus pulchellus) early thismorningwithintwentyfeetofthecampwhichaddedtothemoose-tonguethathadbeenleftinthekettleboilingovernightandtoourotherstoresmadea sumptuous breakfast The Indian made us some hemlock tea instead ofcoffeeandwewerenotobligedtogoasfarasChinaforitindeednotquiteso far as for the fish This was tolerable though he said it was not strongenoughItwas interestingtoseesosimpleadishasakettleofwaterwithahandfulofgreenhemlocksprigs in itboilingover thehuge fire in theopenairtheleavesfastlosingtheirlivelygreencolorandknowthatitwasforourbreakfastWeweregladtoembarkoncemoreandleavesomeofthemosquitoesbehindWehadpassedtheWassataquoikwithoutperceivingitThisaccordingtotheIndianisthenameofthemainEastBranchitselfandnotproperlyappliedtothissmalltributaryaloneasonthemapsWefoundthatwehadcampedaboutamileaboveHuntswhichisontheeastbankandisthelasthouseforthosewhoascendKtaadnonthissideWehadexpectedtoascenditfromthispointbutmycompanionwasobligedtogiveup this on account of sore feetThe Indian however suggested thatperhapshemightgetapairofmoccasinsatthisplaceandthathecouldwalkveryeasilyinthemwithouthurtinghisfeetwearingseveralpairsofstockingsandhesaidbesidethattheyweresoporousthatwhenyouhadtakeninwaterit all drained out again in a littlewhileWe stopped to get some sugar butfoundthatthefamilyhadmovedawayandthehousewasunoccupiedexcepttemporarily by somemenwhowere getting the hay They toldme that theroadtoKtaadnlefttherivereightmilesabovealsothatperhapswecouldgetsomesugaratFisksfourteenmilesbelowIdonotrememberthatwesawthemountain at all from the river I noticed a seine here stretchedon the bankwhichprobablyhadbeenused tocatchsalmon Justbelow thison thewestbank we saw a moose-hide stretched and with it a bearskin which wascomparativelyvery small Iwas themore interested in this sight because itwasnearhere that a townsmanofours thenquite a lad andalonekilledalargebearsomeyearsagoTheIndiansaidthattheybelongedtoJoeAitteonmylastguidebuthowhetoldIdonotknowHewasprobablyhuntingnearandhadleftthemforthedayFindingthatweweregoingdirectlytoOldtownhe regretted that he had not taken more of the moose-meat to his familysayingthatinashorttimebydryingithecouldhavemadeitsolightastohave brought away the greater part leaving the bones We once or twiceinquiredafterthelipwhichisafamoustidbitbuthesaidThatgoOldtown

formyoldwomandontgetiteverydayMaples grewmore andmore numerous Itwas lowering and rained a littleduring the forenoon and as we expected a wetting we stopped early anddinedon theeast sideofa smallexpansionof the river justabovewhatareprobably calledWhetstone Falls about a dozen miles below Hunts Therewere pretty fresh moose-tracks by the waterside There were singular longridges hereabouts called horsebacks covered with fernsMy companionhavinglosthispipeaskedtheIndianifhecouldnotmakehimoneOhyersaid he and in aminute rolled up one of birch bark telling him towet thebowlfromtimetotimeHerealsohelefthisgazetteonatreeWecarriedroundthefallsjustbelowonthewestsideTherockswereontheiredgesandverysharpThedistancewasaboutthreefourthsofamileWhenwehadcarriedoverone load the Indianreturnedby theshoreandIby thepath and though Imadenoparticular haste Iwasnevertheless surprised tofindhimat theother endas soonas I Itwas remarkablehoweasilyhegotalongover theworstgroundHe said tome I takecanoeandyou take therestsupposeyoucankeepalongwithmeIthoughtthathemeantthatwhileherandowntherapidsIshouldkeepalongtheshoreandbereadytoassisthimfromtimetotimeasIhaddonebeforebutasthewalkingwouldbeverybadIansweredIsupposeyouwillgotoofastformebutIwilltryButIwas to go by the path he said This I thoughtwould not help thematter IshouldhavesofartogotogettotheriversidewhenhewantedmeButneitherwasthiswhathemeantHewasproposingaraceoverthecarryandaskedmeifIthoughtIcouldkeepalongwithhimbythesamepathaddingthatImustbeprettysmart todo itAshis load thecanoewouldbemuch theheaviestandbulkiestthoughthesimplestIthoughtthatIoughttobeabletodoitandsaidthatIwouldtrySoIproceededtogatherupthegunaxepaddlekettlefrying-panplatesdipperscarpetsetcetcandwhileIwasthusengagedhethrewmehiscowhidebootsWhatare thesein thebargainIaskedOhyer said he but before I could make a bundle of my load I saw himdisappearingover a hillwith the canoeonhis head so hastily scraping thevariousarticlestogetherIstartedontherunandimmediatelywentbyhiminthebushesbutIhadnosoonerlefthimoutofsightinarockyhollowthanthegreasy plates dippers etc took to themselves wings and while I wasemployedingatheringthemupagainhewentbymebuthastilypressingthesootykettletomysideIstartedoncemoreandsoonpassinghimagainIsawhimnomoreonthecarryIdonotmentionthisasanythingofafeatforitwasbutpoorrunningonmypartandhewasobligedtomovewithgreatcautionfor fear of breaking his canoe as well as his neck When he made hisappearancepuffingandpantinglikemyselfinanswertomyinquirieswherehehadbeenhesaidRocks(locks)cutemfeetandlaughingaddedOhmelovetoplaysometimesHesaidthatheandhiscompanionswhenthey

cametocarriesseveralmileslongusedtotrywhowouldgetoverfirsteachperhapswithacanoeonhisheadIborethesignofthekettleonmybrownlinensackfortherestofthevoyageWemade a second carry on the west side around some falls about a milebelowthisOnthemainlandwereNorwaypinesindicatinganewgeologicalformationanditwassuchadryandsandysoilaswehadnotnoticedbeforeAsweapproachedthemouthoftheEastBranchwepassedtwoorthreehutsthe first sign of civilization afterHunts thoughwe sawno road as yetweheardacow-bellandevensawaninfanthelduptoasmallsquarewindowtoseeuspassbutapparentlytheinfantandthemotherthathelditweretheonlyinhabitantsthenathomeforseveralmilesThistookthewindoutofoursailsremindingus thatwewere travelerssurelywhile itwasanativeof thesoiland had the advantage of us Conversation flagged I would only hear theIndian perhaps ask my companion You load my pipe He said that hesmokedalderbarkformedicineOnenteringtheWestBranchatNicketowitappearedmuch larger than the East Polis remarked that the formerwas allgone and lost now that it was all smooth water hence to Oldtown and hethrew away his polewhichwas cut on theUmbazookskus Thinking of therapidshesaidonceor twice thatyouwouldntcatchhim togoEastBranchagainbuthedidnotbyanymeansmeanallthathesaidThingsarequitechangedsinceIwashereelevenyearsagoWheretherewerebutoneortwohousesInowfoundquiteavillagewithsawmillsandastore(thelatterwaslockedbutitscontentsweresomuchthemoresafelystored)and there was a stage-road to Mattawamkeag and the rumor of a stageIndeedasteamerhadascendedthusfaroncewhenthewaterwasveryhighButwewerenotabletogetanysugaronlyabettershingletoleanourbacksagainstWecampedabout twomilesbelowNicketowon the south sideof theWestBranchcoveringwithfresh twigs thewitheredbedofaformer travelerandfeelingthatwewerenowinasettledcountryespeciallywhenintheeveningweheardanoxsneezeinitswildpastureacrosstheriverWhereveryoulandalongthefrequentedpartoftheriveryouhavenotfartogotofindthesesitesoftemporaryinnsthewitheredbedofflattenedtwigsthecharredsticksandperhapsthetent-polesAndnotlongsincesimilarbedswerespreadalongtheConnecticut the Hudson and the Delaware and longer still ago by theThames and Seine and they now help to make the soil where private andpublicgardensmansionsandpalacesareWecouldnotgetfir twigsforourbed here and the spruce was harsh in comparison having more twig inproportiontoitsleafbutweimproveditsomewhatwithhemlockTheIndianremarked as before Must have hardwood to cookmoose-meat as if thatwere a maxim and proceeded to get it My companion cooked some in

Californiafashionwindingalongstringofthemeatroundastickandslowlyturning it in his hand before the fire Itwas very goodBut the Indian notapprovingofthemodeorbecausehewasnotallowedtocookithisownwaywouldnottasteitAftertheregularsupperweattemptedtomakealilysoupofthebulbswhichIhadbroughtalongforIwishedtolearnallIcouldbeforeIgot out of thewoods Following the Indians directions for he began to besickIwashedthebulbscarefullymincedsomemoose-meatandsomeporksaltedandboiledall togetherbutwehadnotpatience to try theexperimentfairlyforhesaiditmustbeboiledtilltherootswerecompletelysoftenedsoasto thicken thesoup likeflourbut thoughweleft itonallnightwefounditdried to thekettle in themorning andnotyetboiled to a flourPerhaps therootswerenotripeenoughfortheycommonlygathertheminthefallAsitwasitwaspalatableenoughbutitremindedmeoftheIrishmanslimestonebrothTheother ingredientswereenoughaloneTheIndiansnamefor thesebulbswas Sheepnoc I stirred the soup by accidentwith a stripedmaple ormoose-woodstickwhichIhadpeeledandheremarkedthatitsbarkwasanemeticHe prepared to camp as usual between his moose-hide and the fire but itbeginningtorainsuddenlyhetookrefugeunderthetentwithusandgaveusa songbefore falling asleep It rainedhard in thenight and spoiled anotherboxofmatchesforuswhichtheIndianhadleftoutforhewasverycarelessbut asusualwehad somuch thebetternight for the rain since itkept themosquitoesdownSUNDAYAugust2Was a cloudy and unpromisingmorningOne of us observed to the IndianYoudidnotstretchyourmoose-hidelastnightdidyouMrPolisWhereatherepliedinatoneofsurprisethoughperhapsnotofillhumorWhatyouaskmethatquestionforSupposeIstretchemyouseeemMaybeyourwaytalkingmaybeallrightnoIndianwayIhadobservedthathedidnotwishtoanswerthesamequestionmorethanonceandwasoftensilentwhenitwasput again for the sake of certainty as if he were moody Not that he wasincommunicativeforhefrequentlycommencedalong-windednarrativeofhisown accordmdashrepeated at length the tradition of some old battle or somepassage in the recenthistoryofhis tribe inwhichhehadactedaprominentpartfromtimetotimedrawingalongbreathandresumingthethreadofhistalewiththetruestory-tellersleisurelinessperhapsaftershootingarapidmdashprefacingwithWe-e-llby-byetcashepaddledalongEspeciallyafterthedaysworkwasoverandhehadputhimselfinpostureforthenighthewouldbeunexpectedly sociable exhibit even thebonhommieof aFrenchman andwewouldfallasleepbeforehegotthroughhisperiodsNicketowiscalledelevenmilesfromMattawamkeagbytheriverOurcamp

wasthereforeaboutninemilesfromthelatterplaceTheIndianwasquitesick thismorningwith thecolic I thought thathewastheworseforthemoose-meathehadeatenWereachedtheMattawamkeagathalfpasteightinthemorninginthemidstofadrizzlingrainandafterbuyingsomesugarsetoutagainTheIndiangrowingmuchworsewestopped in thenorthpartofLincoln toget some brandy for him but failing in this an apothecary recommendedBrandreths pills which he refused to take because he was not acquaintedwiththemHesaidtomeMedoctormdashfirststudymycasefindoutwhatailemmdashthen I know what to take We dropped down a little farther andstoppedatmid-forenoononanislandandmadehimadipperofteaHeretoowedinedanddidsomewashingandbotanizingwhilehelayonthebankInthe afternoon we went on a little farther though the Indian was no betterBurntibusashecalleditwasalongsmoothlake-likereachbelowtheFiveIslandsHesaidthatheownedahundredacressomewhereupthiswayAsathunder-showerappearedtobecomingupwestoppedoppositeabarnonthewest bank in Chester about a mile above Lincoln Here at last we wereobligedtospendtherestofthedayandnightonaccountofourpatientwhosesicknessdidnotabateHelaygroaningunderhiscanoeonthebanklookingverywoebegoneyetitwasonlyacommoncaseofcolicYouwouldnothavethoughtifyouhadseenhimlyingaboutthusthathewastheproprietorofsomany acres in that neighborhood was worth six thousand dollars and hadbeentoWashingtonItseemedtomethatliketheIrishhemadeagreateradoabouthissicknessthanaYankeedoesandwasmorealarmedabouthimselfWe talked somewhatof leavinghimwithhispeople inLincolnmdashfor that isone of their homesmdashand taking the stage the next day but he objected onaccount of the expense saying Supposemewell inmorning you and I goOldtownbynoonAswewere taking our tea at twilightwhile he lay groaning still under hiscanoehavingat length foundout whatailhimheaskedme togethimadipperofwaterTakingthedipperinonehandheseizedhispowder-hornwiththeotherandpouringintoitachargeortwoofpowderstirreditupwithhisfingeranddrankitoffThiswasallhetookto-dayafterbreakfastbesidehisteaTosavethetroubleofpitchingourtentwhenwehadsecuredourstoresfromwanderingdogswecampedinthesolitaryhalf-openbarnnearthebankwiththe permission of the owner lying on new-mown hay four feet deep Thefragranceofthehayinwhichmanyfernsetcweremingledwasagreeablethough itwas quite alivewith grasshopperswhich you could hear crawlingthroughitThisservedtograduateourapproachtohousesandfeatherbedsInthenightsomelargebirdprobablyanowlflittedthroughoverourheadsand

very early in themorningwewere awakened by the twittering of swallowswhichhadtheirneststhereMONDAYAugust3We started early before breakfast the Indian being considerably better andsoonglidedbyLincolnandafteranotherlongandhandsomelake-likereachwestoppedtobreakfastonthewestshoretwoorthreemilesbelowthistownWe frequently passed Indian islands with their small houses on them TheGovernorAitteonlivesinoneoftheminLincolnThePenobscotIndiansseemtobemoresocialeventhanthewhitesEverandanoninthedeepestwildernessofMaineyoucometotheloghutofaYankeeor Canada settler but a Penobscot never takes up his residence in such asolitudeTheyarenotevenscatteredaboutontheirislandsinthePenobscotwhichareallwithinthesettlementsbutgatheredtogetherontwoorthreemdashthoughnotalwayson thebest soilmdashevidently for thesakeofsociety I sawoneor twohousesnotnowusedby thembecauseasour IndianPolis saidtheyweretoosolitaryThe small river emptying in atLincoln is theMatanancookwhich alsowenoticedwasthenameofasteamermooredthereSowepaddledandfloatedalonglookingintothemouthsofriversWhenpassingtheMohawkRipsorastheIndiancalledthemMohoglipsfourorfivemilesbelowLincolnhetoldusatlengththestoryofafightbetweenhistribeandtheMohawksthereancientlymdashhowthelatterwereovercomebystratagemthePenobscotsusingconcealedknivesmdashbuttheycouldnotforalongtimekilltheMohawkchiefwho was a very large and strong man though he was attacked by severalcanoesatoncewhenswimmingaloneintheriverFromtimetotimewemetIndiansintheircanoesgoingupriverOurmandidnot commonly approach them but exchanged a few words with them at adistanceinhistongueThesewerethefirstIndianswehadmetsinceleavingtheUmbazookskusAt Piscataquis Falls just above the river of that namewewalked over thewoodenrailroadontheeasternshoreaboutoneandahalfmileslongwhiletheIndianglideddowntherapidsThesteamerfromOldtownstopshereandpassengerstakeanewboatabovePiscataquiswhosemouthweherepassedmeans branch It is obstructed by falls at itsmouth but can be navigatedwith batteaux or canoes above through a settled country even to theneighborhoodofMooseheadLakeandwehad thoughtat firstofgoing thatwayWewerenotobligedtogetoutofthecanoeafterthisonaccountoffallsorrapidsnorindeedwasitquitenecessaryhereWetooklessnoticeofthesceneryto-daybecausewewereinquiteasettledcountryTheriverbecamebroadandsluggishandwesawablueheronwingingitswayslowlydownthe

streambeforeusWe passed the Passadumkeag River on our left and saw the blue Olamonmountains at a distance in the southeast Hereabouts our Indian told us atlength the story of their contention with the priest respecting schools Hethought a great deal of education and had recommended it to his tribeHisargument in its favor was that if you had been to college and learnt tocalculateyoucouldkeepempropertymdashnootherwayHesaidthathisboywasthebestscholarintheschoolatOldtowntowhichhewentwithwhitesHehimselfisaProtestantandgoestochurchregularlyatOldtownAccordingto his account a good many of his tribe are Protestants and many of theCatholics also are in favor of schools Some years ago they had aschoolmaster aProtestantwhom they likedverywellThepriest cameandsaidthattheymustsendhimawayandfinallyhehadsuchinfluencetellingthemthattheywouldgotothebadplaceatlastiftheyretainedhimthattheysent him away The school party though numerous were about giving upBishopFenwickcamefromBostonandusedhis influenceagainst themButourIndiantoldhissidethattheymustnotgiveupmustholdontheywerethestrongestIftheygaveupthentheywouldhavenopartyButtheyansweredthat it was no use priest too strong wed better give up At length hepersuadedthemtomakeastandThepriestwasgoingforasigntocutdowntheliberty-poleSoPolisandhispartyhadasecretmeetingaboutithegotreadyfifteenortwentystoutyoungmen stript em naked and painted em like old times and told them thatwhenthepriestandhispartywenttocutdowntheliberty-poletheyweretorush up take hold of it and prevent them and he assured them that therewouldbenowar only anoisemdashnowarwherepriest isHekepthismenconcealed in a house near by andwhen the priests partywere about to cutdowntheliberty-polethefallofwhichwouldhavebeenadeath-blowtotheschoolpartyhegaveasignalandhisyoungmenrushedoutandseized thepoleTherewasagreatuproarandtheywereaboutcomingtoblowsbutthepriest interfered saying Nowar nowar and so the pole stands and theschoolgoesonstillWethoughtthatitshowedagooddealoftactinhimtoseizethisoccasionandtakehisstandonitprovinghowwellheunderstoodthosewithwhomhehadtodealTheOlamonRivercomesinfromtheeastinGreenbushafewmilesbelowthePassadumkeag When we asked the meaning of this name the Indian saidtherewasanislandoppositeitsmouthwhichwascalledOlarmonthatinoldtimeswhenvisitorswerecomingtoOldtowntheyusedtostoptheretodressand fixupor paint themselves What is thatwhich ladiesusedhe askedRougeRedVermilionYerhesaidthat is larmonakindofclayorred

paintwhichtheyusedtogethereWedecidedthatwetoowouldstopatthisislandandfixupourinnermanatleastbydiningItwasa large islandwithanabundanceofhempnettlebut IdidnotnoticeanykindofredpaintthereTheOlamonRiveratitsmouthatleastisadeadstreamTherewasanotherlargeislandinthatneighborhoodwhichtheIndiancalledSoogle(ieSugar)IslandAboutadozenmilesbeforereachingOldtownheinquiredHowyoulikeemyourpilotButwepostponedananswertillwehadgotquitebackagainTheSunkhaze another shortdead streamcomes in from theeast twomilesaboveOldtownThereissaidtobesomeofthebestdeergroundinMaineonthisstreamAskingthemeaningofthisnametheIndiansaidSupposeyouaregoingdownPenobscotjustlikeweandyouseeacanoecomeoutofbankandgoalongbeforeyoubutyounoseeemstreamThatisSunkhazeHehadpreviously complimentedmeonmypaddling saying that I paddledjust likeanybodygivingmeanIndiannamewhichmeantgreatpaddlerWhen off this stream he said to me who sat in the bows Me teach youpaddleSo turning toward theshorehegotout cameforwardandplacedmyhandsashewishedHeplacedoneofthemquiteoutsidetheboatandtheotherparallelwiththefirstgraspingthepaddleneartheendnotovertheflatextremityandtoldmetoslideitbackandforthonthesideofthecanoeThisIfoundwasagreatimprovementwhichIhadnotthoughtofsavingmethelaborofliftingthepaddleeachtimeandIwonderedthathehadnotsuggesteditbeforeItistruebeforeourbaggagewasreducedwehadbeenobligedtositwith our legs drawn up and our knees above the side of the canoe whichwouldhavepreventedourpaddlingthusorperhapshewasafraidofwearingouthiscanoebyconstantfrictiononthesideItoldhimthatIhadbeenaccustomedtositinthesternandliftingmypaddleateachstrokegiveitatwistinordertosteertheboatonlygettingapryonthesideeachtimeandIstillpaddledpartlyasifinthesternHethenwantedtoseemepaddleinthesternSochangingpaddlesforhehadthelongerandbetteroneandturningendforendhesittingflatonthebottomandIonthecrossbarhebegantopaddleveryhardtryingtoturnthecanoelookingoverhisshoulderandlaughingbutfindingitinvainherelaxedhiseffortsthoughwestillspedalongamileortwoveryswiftlyHesaidthathehadnofaulttofindwithmypaddling in the stern but I complained that he did not paddleaccordingtohisowndirectionsinthebowsOpposite the Sunkhaze is themain boom of the Penobscot where the logsfromfaruptheriverarecollectedandassortedAswe drew near toOldtown I asked Polis if hewas not glad to get home

again but therewasno relenting to hiswildness andhe said ItmakesnodifferencetomewhereIamSuchistheIndianspretensealwaysWeapproachedtheIndianIslandthroughthenarrowstraitcalledCookHesaidIxpectwetakeinsomewaterthereriversohighmdashneverseeitsohighatthisseasonVeryroughwatertherebutshortswampsteamboatonceDontyou paddle till I tell you then you paddle right along Itwas a very shortrapidWhen we were in the midst of it he shouted paddle and we shotthroughwithouttakinginadropSoon after the Indian houses came in sight but I could not at first tellmycompanionwhichoftwoorthreelargewhiteoneswasourguidesHesaiditwastheonewithblindsWelandedoppositehisdoorataboutfourintheafternoonhavingcomesomeforty miles this day From the Piscataquis we had come remarkably andunaccountablyquickprobablyasfastasthestageortheboatthoughthelastdozenmileswasdeadwaterPoliswanted to sell ushis canoe said itwould last sevenor eightyears orwithcareperhapstenbutwewerenotreadytobuyitWe stopped for anhour at his housewheremycompanion shavedwithhisrazorwhichhepronouncedinverygoodconditionMrsPworeahatandhadasilverbroochonherbreastbutshewasnotintroducedtousThehousewasroomyandneatAlargenewmapofOldtownandtheIndianIslandhungonthe wall and a clock opposite to it Wishing to know when the cars leftOldtownPolisssonbroughtoneofthelastBangorpaperswhichIsawwasdirectedtoJosephPolisfromtheofficeThiswas the last thatIsawofJoePolisWetookthe last trainandreachedBangorthatnight

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