the national garment cutter book of diagrams 1888

TT 520.6641S38Copy 1

^#^THE*^ v^

:v-

f\ nn( a. /e

LADIES' BASQUE.

Use scale corresponding with the bust measure.

Is in six pieces : Front, Back, Side-back, Collar,

and two Sleeve portions. This Basque is drafted out

upon the general plan of work.

Draft Back first ; raise or lower the waist line to

the desired length.

Care should be taken to connect waist lines.

9

Til

Oo

LADIES' BASQUEContinued.TO DRAFT FRONT.

The front is drafted upon same plan and by same scale used in drafting Back and Side-back.

If waist line has been raised or lowered in drafting Back and Side-Back, raise or lower waist line on

front to correspond.

H5>J 'l-'^'-'^

LADIES' BASQUEContinued.SLEEVE.

Use the same scale in drafting both upper and lower part of Sleeve that was used in drafting Back,

Side Back, and Front. This rule has no exception.

'. y,

LADIES' COSTUME.

Use scale corresponding with the bust measure.It is in eight pieces: Front, Back, Side Back, Collar, two Sleeve portions, and

Back and Front Drapery.TSE BASQUE

Is perfectly plain, with collar and cuffs of velvet to correspond with the skirt, whichis made of velvet.

THE DRAPERYIs drafted by the scale corresponding with the waist measure. It is in two pieces

:

Front and Back.TSE FRONT.

The right side is laid in three upward-turning plaits, while the left side is laid infour backward-turning plaits; press the plaits on the left side, but do not tack them.

THE BACK DRAPERT.Lay six backward-turning plaits on the left side, and also six backward-turning

plaits on right side, bringing the two together in the center of the back, forming aloop in the center of the back, which gives a very graceful drapery without anydraping.

Regulate the length by the tape measure.

as

1

P5

LADIES' COSTUMEContinued.

leV,

15^-2


9 t^1 Si

S00 o

VV ^sT-^ V V 05 0V V-^ -X

-\,> ^--^ \M M Ct O .* ;3 O ^ i i^ t- o- t^

\/

1=)

i-4

PS

Ph

PS

P3CO

O

CO

aais XHOia

4SCO

a^ _\ \ _N

T, 3 5 H ^ ^

3J

GIRL'S COSTUME.

Use scale corresponding with the bust

measure.

It IS in eight pieces: Front, Back, the Vfor the front, Collar, and front of Reverse,

one-half of Skirt and two Sleeve portions.

This is very suitable for a school dress.

THE SKIRTIs shirred and sewed to the waist.


^(M (S3

H

'SI ^

l_

0309

08 1

A. / /1 */ /

CO 1

\// / / 1 /:)nia3Aii03 jsont SI J8ia ijDiiiAi "ijai jo %\i9ij .tdi|)i9 apTS

"AB aro^ii }o-!iao,(l ai{j j)7(i!it >-

tote" ^ ^ oo c:w t o %.T^ *-M

.36

CHILD'S COSTUME.


Is in five pieces : Front, Back, Vest Front, Collar, and one-half of the Skirt.

THE VESTCan be made of the same material as the dress, and the Collarmade of the contrasting material, if preferred.

THE SKIRTIs laid in single box plaits; the trimming may be omitted.


5, HalfBox Plait ^ 2

Box Plait

LADIES' COSTUME.

TO CUT BASQUE.Use scale corresponding with bust measure.Is in eight pieces: Front, Back, Side Back,

Under-arm Gore, Vest, Collar, and twoSleeve portions.The vest is sewed in the first dart and in

the shoulder seam, and can be made of vel-vet or any contrasting color.The sleeves can be finished at the hand

with a small round cuff of the same materialas the vest, with very pleasing effect.

THE SKIRTIs drafted by the waist measure, and is infour pieces: Front, Right and Left Sides,and Back Drapery.The front is made of the same material as

the vest and cuffs.The left side consists of two double box

plaits.

The right side has five side plaits turningtoward the front, as shown on draft.The straps across the front are 31/^ inches

wide.The lower one is 7 inches long, and th

upper one is 51^ inches long; cut the remaining four to correspond, and fasten on fronof skirt, as shown by the figure.

First make a foundation skirt (cut frorthe plain skirt pattern). Press the plaitcarefully, tack with tape underneath, to sta;the plaits, and fasten to foundation skirt athe waist with a band; finish bottom ofoundation skirt with knife plaiting 3 inchewide.The back drapery is laid in five plait

turning towârd center of back; drape up t'make bottom even.

2V4

Ne d

? COLLAR

^he%i%i

^\ &

A3*^//-2Â ' 1/ !f

"ifiW!ti fq crj

3 \^

4:% - -8- V-SU

'\No.BX\ \

1^'

t=2â

5\ 4'

10%

13%

u%

s^îv^ 38

ISVa

21%


'^%i^%W

8^^-81 Q% I'y, 34

w- -v7- t;; ^7:7 mp V-3TS Lf ^>'x5tSl^ "^xlgJ-gOS^îSg 8r,|iS 2Z%ZZ %il V18T ^/i8 %8*8S '^/ii S9î9 ^/êsiios

c3

ot-9

Topof Jkirt

No.BX60

64VaJ 62^461457â5652*4

A A A A45S 42 40^^37 35% 32 28^^27 23V322 18^4

A A A A A A -'A /\ A CllVa sViG/4 3i,lf4 tsVo


^7'//:

1

1

1

1

1

1

i

1

1

-

1 o

i

1 ft

1

1 a

1^1

I

f

S sc% 33 -^ 25 Va 22^*4

Top of Skirt

No.B X

- V V-

1a?pi

LADIES' KITCHEN APRON.

Use scale corresponding with bust measure.

Is in six pieces: Front, Back, Shoulder-strap,

Belt, Pocket, and Strap.

The binding should be held tight, to prevent

enlarging the neck.

Regulate length by the tape line.

LADIES' CUTAWAY JACKET.


Is in six pieces : Front, Back, Side Back, Collar,

and two Sleeve portions.

Is made of any material, and can be worn withany costume.

Interline the collar with canvas.

Connect waist lines.

e CO

00^ oBn ijis.

42

LADIES' MORNING DRESS.Use scale corresponding with bust measure.Is in seven pieces: Front, Back, Side Back,

Back Breadth, Collar, and two Sleeve portions.Is drafted upon the general plan of work.The back breadth is turned down two inches;

gather and sew to the back on the curved lineiSi^ on base line, and the curved line on sideback 1 21^ on base line.Sew the back and side back together first; the

bottom can be finished with plaiting or gatheredruffles.


fi^.

^

Collar n>s\ yp.F X 1

V

Back Breadth of SldvlA

r^o.F X

ilV. 37

litijiP

;i".si. ~,-^

I- No.FXt>

-'

!;(1 'od" 'H ^I'-in

ifc^ of at

CO l lo OS (-*CC-

CHILD'S CLOAK.

l^4

l"/*


Is in five pieces: Front, Back, Collar and

two Sleeve portions.

Lay two single box plaits in the back.

The front can be finished with buttons, ifpreferred.


19 I8V2

19 18 V2

INFANTS' HIGH NECK DRESS.

Use scale corresponding with bust

measure.

Is in four pieces: Front, Back,

Side-gore and Sleeve.

The upper and the under part of

sleeve is drafted together, as shown

in draft.

Quantity of material required: 36

inches wide, 2^ yards; wide lace,

2% yards; insertion, 5 yards.

o /^

10%

/N0.JX

lP%__..6tV4'

3 1/3

/VJ

/LFront Gore

No.JX

[14

12^4

52%

45

LADIES' POLONAISE.

Use scale corresponding with bust

measure.

Is in five pieces : Front, Back, Collar

and two Sleeve portions.

The two fronts are cut together, toavoid a seam down the front of thedrapery.

It is easily drafted if care is taken to

follow the lines and figures given onthe diagram. Each piece is numbered.Study the draft carefully before com-

mencing.

The left side is sewed together withthe back drapery.

Lay four upward turning plaits onright side, and fastened to the back

drapery, as shown on the figure.The bow of ribbon can be omitted, if

preferred.

The back and side back are draftedtogether, as shown on diagram.The line running diagonally from

2i% on base line to 6}4 ^^ waist line,extending to 9% on waist line, is laidin five side plaits, turning toward center

of back, and fastened firmly to center

of back.

Lay six side plaits on each side, on

cross measure line, running from 32%on base line to 19% on the oppositeside of draft. When plaited, presscarefully and tack to tape, to stay the

plaits. Omit the tacking at the bottom.

LADIES' POLONAISEContinued.

11V4

23>'3

CHILD'S COSTUME.

This is a beautiful costume, suitable for either boy or girl.Is drafted by bust measure, and is in six pieces: Front,

Back, Belt, Collar and two Sleeve portions.

There are three single box plaits in front and back,extending to the shoulders, and three under the arm, asshown in draft.

The plaits at top of back are marked on 2 measure line,or fourth line drawn from top, for convenience ; and the plaitsare marked on front on 33^ measure line, for the same reason.

i\

/

1

r

5S 1

1 \X. 1"X0. 1^

4^-4 2^4 *4^8V

-^ 21^ ^'j V

48

CHILD'S COSTUMEContinued.

GIRLS' COSTUME.

Use scale corresponding with the bust

measure to cut the Polonaise.

Is in six pieces : Front and Vest Front,

Back, Side Back, Collar, and one-half of

plaiting for the Skirt.

THE VESTis sewed in the under-arm dart and at theshoulders.

The Vest, Lappel, and Collar can bemade of velvet or any contrasting ma-terial if desired.

Regulate the length by the use of thetape measure.

Bte^iSiif-lffj^rfii- r I- i-^ r ->- -' -,.'"4:-- y .. .->->-^.--, :^, ;ki.j^-iat

14%

50

83%

GIRLS' COSTUMEContinued.

51

LADIES' STREET JACKET.

Use scale corresponding withbust measure.

Is in ten pieces: Jacket Front,

Vest Front, Back, Side Back, Under-arm Gore, Rever for front of Jacket,Collar, Cuff, and two Sleeve por-tions.

The jacket can be made of anymaterial.

Lay two double box plaits in the^^

-''4 3-Vs e^Vj;''%4

back.The vest is made of velvet.The vest front and jacket front

are joined together with the under-arm gore.

10

V y ^^

' No.K X

3 k

3 22 Ki

2^

9%

15

uvs ;-j,G/j sVs 1% !1%

52

CHILD'S COSTUME.

TO CUT JACKET.Use scale corresponding with bust measure.

Is in five pieces: Front, Back, Collar and two Sleeveportions.

THE SKIRTIs drafted by waist measure, and is in two pieces, half ofs*kirt, and yoke.

There are two double box plaits in skirt; 5^ aregiven in plate. Others are made the same.The Trimming on skirt can be omitted, if desired.The length can be regulated by tape measure.

69

1

G9ic

69 66166!. 68'4 ii> ^^&xl^&Vy.&4^:b6%l''i\^%i^ \i^i\i^^^^ sa'^ jy\2'5'^'jS8V^3ai,^ll>^l'.^^ IBlj U.4 i

S I % 2 'i it,A

Top of Skirt 4^

No.D X

Plait Plait Plait Plait

l-4

68i66'-.653

CHILD'S CLOAK.


Is in eight pieces: Front, Back, one-half of Skirt,

Hood, Collar and two Sleeve portions.

This is a very fashionable Cloak, and can be made

of any material.

The Skirt is cut long, and can be plaited if preferred.

The Cuffs, Collar and Hood lining is made of

velvet.

Regulate the length by the use of the tape line.

5% 5

*^

t9 to

CLOAK BELT

CO

NO.l B

o^."

a

*\"

Collar2f >

B4

CHILD'S OLOAK-Continued.

- i!^^ 2 ts

14^-^-

c

*^

I^4


Is in six pieces: Front, Back, Front Yoke,

Back Yoke, Band and Sleeve.


*-^-

^

\ ' Front Yoke i e^>J

1 Ko.G X Im~=r--^..^

'^-_.^____

-l-Sleeve

1

1

/11V4

Front

ii

Back

d

Al

flft

_J35IG 33%

35

w

CHILD'S COMBINATION UNDERGARMENT.


Is in three pieces : Front, Back, and Sleeve.

Is drafted out upon the general plan of work.

Follow the arrows closely.

No allowance is made for the tucks.

Regulate the length by the use of the tape measure.

74

CHILD'S COMBINATIONContinued.

75

LADIES' STREET COSTUME.

FRONT VIEW.

TO DRAFT BASQUE.


Is in eight piecesFront, Back, Side Back, two

Under Arm Gores, Collar and two Sleeve portions.

This is a French basque, of which there is such

a demand at present, and gives the most perfectshape to the figure for which we are fitting of any

basque we have.

The Front may be turned away and insert a vestif preferable, and also allowance may be made forplaits in the Back.

THE SLEEVESMay be finished with a cuff at the hand ifPdesired.

THE DRAPERY.Use scale corresponding with the waist measure.

Is in two piecesFront and Back, and is laid in

plaits as shown on the figure. The pattern for thewrap is given in this issue, and is a very stylish and

dressy wrap.THE SKIRT

Is cut from the plain skirt pattern, given in this

issue. Regulate the length by the use of the tape

measure.

The diagrams for the wrap is given on page 80.

78

LADIES' STREET COSTUMEContinued.

BACK VIEW.

K) t ts>*. t l-

^


QO --1 -


.x-*-

LADIES' WRAP.Use scale corresponding with bust measure.It consists of four pieces: Front, Back, Sleeve

and Collar.This is drafted upon the general plan of work.Watch the arrows closely.Join together according to the notches.

The sleeves are loose.Any style of trimming may be used, and almost

any material.Find collar for wrap on page 79-The design of this wrap is given on page 76 and

77 (Ladies' Street Costume).

80

CHILD'S STREET COSTUME.

Use scale correspouding with the bustmeasure.

Is in ten pieces : Right and Left Front,Yoke and Shirring for Front, Bacls, SideBack, Collar, two Sleeve portions and one-half of box-plaited Skirt.

THE FRONT.The dotted line running from 33^ on first

cross measure line down to 4J^ on bottomline is the lining for the yoke and shirringfor vest. After the shirring for the vest isgathered at top and sewed to the yoke andgathered at the bottom, baste it to the rightfront. Close at the left side with hooksand eyes.

THE BACKIs faced with the same material asthe vest front and looped up to forma bow in center of back. Any styleof trimming may be used.

THE SKIRTIs laid in box plaits.Regulate length by the tape meas-

ure.

'40

12V

oso

11*4 4^ / - -

Ttr^27

81

OHILDS' STREET COSTUMEContinued.

i '

s

jBos piait

M^-X*"^

-.^*'

E5^ Q000

-_^?'

i2 iO

BOYS' OVERCOAT.

r/|

V/8

Use scale corresponding with the chest measure over the

coat.

Is in six pieces: Front, Back, Side Back, Collar, Pocket

Lap, and two Sleeve portions.

This garment is drafted out upon the general plan of work.

Regulate the length by the tape line.

s\ HW-p-i

5^

o12;

3V4

J 6k

BOYS' OVERCOAT-Continued.

->%

I7\t--

GENTLEMEN'S OVERCOAT.Draft by scale corresponding with Chest measure taken

over the coat.Regulate length and size of waist by tape line.Take measure for Sleeve from center of back to knuckle

joint.Deduct width of back pieceless one inch for seams-

this gives length of sleeves. If length of sleeve by the scale corresponds with this measure, the length is correct; if not, *change the scale line at wrist until it corresponds with tapemeasure, changing elbow line one-half the distance same 2%'direction. Regulate length to suit.

/LIBRARY OF CONGRESS

014 061 973 5

the national garment cutter book of diagrams 1888

Documents