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The Perennial Word
May 2012
A Publication of Cedar Mountain Perennials
Volume 2, Issue 1
Editor’s Note: Welcome to the third issue and second season of the
Perennial Word. We had a lot of fun assembling,
publishing and sharing this newsletter with you last
year and look forward to providing our readers with
more timely tips about gardening with native plants
this year.
This month finds us busily getting ready for the up-
coming season. Some new things for this year, we
finished up a shade house last year which will allow
us to increase our growing space as well as provide a
good finishing area for our plants. At the present
time it is already almost full! We have a number of
new plants we are trying this season and hope to have
available a bit later this spring. Our demonstration
garden is still growing. We are currently in the
process of planting. The purpose of this garden is to
showcase some of our plants as well as to try plants
we have not grown before to see how they do when
grown under cultivation.
As in the past we have some feature articles this issue:
The Water Wise Garden
Plant of the Month: Asters and Fleabanes
What’s Bugging Me: Deer
We hope you enjoy this issue of the Perennial Word!
Cedar Mountain Perennials :
Specializes in native
plants for the Inland
Northwest Garden.
Offering a wide selection
of native perennial wild-
flowers grown from seed
or cuttings at our nursery
outside Athol, Idaho. We
also feature a limited selection of
trees and shrubs.
Our plants have been selected to be
ideally suited for climate, soils, and
moisture regimes of the Inland North-
west.
Inside this Issue:
Editor’s Note .............................. 1
The Water Wise Garden ............. 2
Plant of the Month: Asters and
Fleabanes .................................... 4
What’s Bugging Me ................... 5
Spokane Garden Expo ................ 7
Products and Services ................. 8
Retail Locations .......................... 8
Calendar of Events ..................... 8
May 2012 The Perennial Word 2
The Water Wise Garden
By Jill Wilson
In researching this article many of the “hits” that I came up with when I googled “drought tolerant or water
wise landscaping” were for California, Arizona, New Mexico, and Texas, areas traditionally associated with
low moisture and hot summers. A search of drought tolerant plants also came with extensive lists of plants for
California and Southwestern gardens. But creating a water wise garden is not only for areas that we tradition-
ally think of as having a climate that may be hot and or desert-like. Many areas throughout the west are sus-
ceptible to drought, including the inland Northwest and though at times our water supply seems vast, it is far
from inexhaustible. Something that becomes very evident during a succession of hot dry years and may be-
come more important as the population of the area grows.
The concept of xeriscape was developed in Denver, Colorado in response to water shortages. Xeriscape comes
from the word “Xeros” that means dry. Xeriscape refers to a landscape that uses little supplemental water. A
xeriscape is not a barren or dry looking landscape, it is beautiful, one that is in harmony with the local environ-
ment. A xeriscape is not a particular design, but rather a garden concept that can take in a variety of garden
styles. What xeriscape gardens share is an attention to the local climate, soil, and micro site. A xeriscape fits
in very well with the idea of living locally. Native plants are perfect for a xeriscape. They occur locally, are
adapted to local climate and soils, require little to no supplemental water after their establishment.
Let’s look at some of the important principles associated with xeriscape. Xeriscape incorporates seven water-
conserving principles:
Planning and design
Efficient irrigation systems
Use of mulch
Soil Preparation
Appropriate turf
Water-efficient plant material
Appropriate maintenance
Design
A good water-wise garden begins with a good design. Divide the garden up into zones with different water
requirements. Most use three zones, high, moderate and low. Most gardeners place the highest water use
zone around areas where people focus more time and attention such as an entry or patio area. But a higher
water use zone may also be a moister micro site in the landscape, an area where water drains from a roof etc.
The moderate use zone are areas with less use and where the gardener will spend less time in maintenance.
Low use zones require little or no supplemental water. Plant plants with similar water and maintenance re-
quirements within each zone..
Irrigation
Irrigation may be necessary in a xeriscape, particularly in the first few years after the garden has been estab-
lished. Irrigation may still be necessary after establishment based on the garden’s design and plant selection in
the highest water use zones. The idea of xeriscape is not to completely eliminate the need for irrigation but to
irrigate wisely, thus conserving water. Over half of residential water use is in irrigation of yards. Through a
well thought out irrigation system in combination with a well thought out landscape, water use in the yard may
be reduced dramatically. The irrigation system, whether automatic, manual, or hoses that are moved around is
integral to the landscape plan. Water use zones should be managed independently.
May 2012 The Perennial Word 3Apply water as efficiently as possible. Use drip irrigation systems or soaker hoses around shrubs, trees, and
annual and perennial plantings, time sprinklers to run in the morning when evaporation is least.
Mulch
Mulch stabilizes the soil environment, reducing evaporation, soil temperature and erosion. It also reduces
weed growth and competition for water and nutrients. There are many materials that are suitable for mulch-
ing. Permeable mulches such as bark, gravel, straw, compost etc are ideal as they allow water and oxygen ex-
change with roots. Keep the type of plant in mind when choosing the best mulch for the site. Plants adapted
to low water often grow better with gravel or rock mulches. Apply mulch to 2 to 4 inches deep.
Soil Preparation
Soil Preparation is an important in establishing a water wise garden. First look at your soil so you have some
understanding of what plants may be best adapted to it and to see which if any amendments might be needed.
Loosening the soil prior to planting improves root development and allows better infiltration of water and air
needed for root growth and function. Keep in mind when doing this that any soil disturbance will promote
germination of weed seeds so confine tilling to those areas being planted. Addition of compost or manure may
be appropriate in high water use zones to increase the soil’s water holding capacity.
Appropriate use of Turf
Turf provides an ideal surface for children and pets to play on. It is relatively easy to care for though it re-
quires maintenance such as mowing and watering. It cools the urban environment, reduces erosion and pre-
vents glare from the sun. There are several lawn grasses suitable for the Inland Northwest, some of which
require much less irrigation. These include certain varieties Kentucky Bluegrass, fine fescues (creeping and
spreading), Chewings fescue, hard fescues and turf type tall fescues. There are several drought tolerant varie-
ties of bluegrass such as Touchdown, Banff, Baron and Adelphi. Bluegrass is susceptible to necrotic ring spot
disease and in shade powdery mildew. Some of the other turf grasses mentioned are more resistant to these
diseases. In some areas in the garden a ground cover that may use less water may work as well as turf, incor-
porating this concept into the garden design is an important in reducing water use.
Low Water Use Plants
There are a wide variety of annuals, perennials, shrubs and trees appropriate for a water wise garden in the
Northwest. Since we specialize in native plants I will focus on those. Native plants are by their very nature
well adapted to the local area. They are also becoming more and more available in the market place as more
gardeners discover their beauty and hardiness. There are native plants that can be used for almost every garden
setting, from the perennial border, rock garden, theme gardens such as hummingbird or butterfly gardens and
more. There are also many hardy shrubs and trees. Be sure to ask the provider what type of setting the plant
will grow in, some are more suited for full sun or shade, some require more moisture than others, but that said
there is a native plant for just about every garden setting.
Maintenance
Maintenance is necessary in just about every garden. Some designs may require much more than others. For
example the more turf that is used, the more mowing, fertilizing etc. Using native plants can reduce the
amount of maintenance in the garden since they tend to have fewer pest problems and be better adapted to the
local climate therefore requiring less water etc. Using an appropriate mulch will greatly reduce the amount of
weeding required.
Creating a water wise landscape makes our gardens much more compatible with our Inland Northwest environ-
ment. By paying attention to the seven principles discussed here it is possible to create a beautiful, livable gar-
den landscape that is in harmony with our climate.
May 2012 The Perennial Word 4
Featured Plant:
Asters and Fleabanes
Asters and fleabanes are members of the family Asteraceae, formerly
known as compositae. The latter refers to the type of flower found
in this group, in which each inflorescence consists of multiple tiny
flowers. Most bear two types of flowers in each inflorescence, ray
flowers are what we often think of as the “petals” on the daisy (but
each is actually a tiny flower in itself. The disc flowers are the flow-
ers in the center each consisting of a tiny tubular corolla. The ray
flowers are usually purple, blue or violet. The disc flowers are usu-
ally yellow.
The Asters take their name from the Greek word for Star, referring to
the shape of the flower. Many are prized in the garden as they tend
to bloom in late summer or early fall, when few other flowers are
blooming. Not all species are fall bloomers however, in fact both of
the native species we grow bloom are spring blooming.
Asters and Fleabanes are hardy, easy to grow and add much beauty to
the landscape. They are outstanding for attracting both butterflies
and bees and useful for planting in a wide variety of garden settings,
from the perennial border, rock garden to butterfly garden. In our
own experience planting these species in our own garden we have
found them to be relatively resistant to deer feeding though some-
times deer will munch on the flowers.
Several species are native to the Inland Northwest. We offer two
species, both found in the mountains in our local region, Subalpine
Fleabane and Leafy Bract Aster. Both of these species possess pur-
ple/lavender ray flowers and yellow disc flowers. Both occur locally
in wet meadows at higher elevations but are very adaptable to gar-
dens in the valleys as long as sufficient moisture is provided. Plant
in good garden soil, in full sun or part shade in an area that receives
some irrigation or located in a moister site. Both species are spring
blooming.
May 2012 The Perennial Word 5
What’s Bugging Me?
Deer Without a doubt, the most common question we receive from people
looking for plants for their gardens in the Inland Northwest is: what
do you have that the deer don't eat? In truth the only deer proof
plants are those they haven’t found or can’t reach, thus a deer fence or
other barrier is the best insurance against damage. Landscaping with
deer-resistant plants can be a more aesthetic alternative and may be
the best option in areas where a deer fence isn’t practical.
Whether or not a particular plant will be eaten depends upon several
factors: the deer’s nutritional needs, its previous feeding experience,
plant palatability, time of year, and availability of wild foods. When
deer populations are high, and preferred foods are scarce, there are
few plants that deer will not eat. Still some plants are not as palat-
able as others. There are a number of lists of deer resistant plants,
Two that would be most applicable to local gardeners would be avail-
able from WSU Extension (Deer Resistant Plants, a fact sheet C063
compiled by Tonie Fitzgerald http://www.spokane-county.wsu.edu/
spokane/eastside/Fact%20Sheets/C063%20Deer%20Resistant%
20Plants.pdf ) and Washington Department of Fish and Game
(“Living with Wildlife: Deer” prepared by the Washington Depart-
ment of Fish and Game http://wdfw.wa.gov/living/
deer.html#conflicts ).
We have tried to use our own experience as well as that gathered by
others to note which plants among those we grow and sell are more
resistant than others. Keep in mind, these are guides, not absolutes.
To completely protect valuable plants, nothing works like a well con-
structed fence. A well constructed 6 to 8 foot welded wire fence can
last 20 years. Electric fence can also be effective. Hot wire fences
are less expensive to construct but require more maintenance and will
not last as long. Mini barriers, barriers to protect small areas or indi-
vidual plants may also be used. These can be less expensive and ob-
trusive. Some swear by the use of 100 pound test monofilament fish-
ing line, tied to 5 foot states on a 12 inch spacing. This strategy
works best in protecting small areas. (Continued on page 6)
May 2012 The Perennial Word 6
Another strategy that be may be used separately or in combination with some the other methods dis-
cussed previously is the use of repellants. Deer repellants use a disagreeable odor or taste or both
to discourage deer from eating plants that have been treated. There are several commercially made
products or one can make a homemade concoction. The following recipe is from the Washington
Department of Fish and Game:
An All-in-One Homemade Deer Repellent
Mix the following in a 1-gallon tank sprayer: 2 beaten and strained eggs— strain them to remove the white strings surrounding the yolk, which
otherwise will plug up your sprayer).
1 cup milk, yogurt, buttermilk, or sour milk
2 tsp. Tabasco sauce or cayenne pepper
20 drops essential oil of clove, cinnamon, or eucalyptus, found in small bottles at health food stores
1 tsp. cooking oil or dormant oil
1 tsp. liquid dish soap
Top off the tank with water and pump it up. Shake the sprayer occasionally and mist onto dry foli-
age. One application will last for 2 to 4 weeks in dry weather.
Repellants are most effective for short-term use and in areas experience low to moderate deer dam-
age. They also work best when applied before deer develop a habit of visiting your garden and a
taste for your plants!
Some people have also employed the use of various scare tactics to move deer out of an area. This
method involves connecting bright lights, radios or water sprinklers to motion detectors. This
method, like the use of repellants, is best used for short periods of time and with low to moderate
deer pressure.
We hope you have found this article helpful, good luck in the coming season in gardening with deer.
in the Inland Northwest.
(Continued from page 5)
May 2012 The Perennial Word 7
13th Annual Spokane Garden Expo
May 12, 2012
9 a.m.—5 p.m
1810 N. Greene St—Spokane CC Lair
This year’s theme:
Adventures in Gardening
The show will have many wonderful highlights: Specialty Plants for Sale
Seminars
Demonstrations
One-of-a-Kind Garden Art
Door Prizes
Children’s Activities
Garden Accessories & Décor
Unique Gifts
Food
Music
Come See Us: at the Expo:
Cedar Mountain Perennials
We’ll have a lot of great plants for you to choose from
May 2012 The Perennial Word 8
Cedar Mountain
Perennials
Products and Services
Wildflowers: Our selection includes over 60 species of local,
regional and western native wildflowers.
Shrubs and Trees: We carry a broad selection of native shrubs and
some trees.
Pricing: We offer retail sales through the Kootenai
County, Sandpoint Farmer’s Markets and the
Six Rivers Market. Volume discounts are
available to landscapers and those purchasing
in quantity
Consulting:
Site Evaluations
Plant Identification
Plant Selection
Pest and Disease Diagnosis
Training
Hwy 95
Hwy 54
to Sandpoint
to Coeur d’Alene
to Bayview
Athol
Cedar Mountain Perennials
How
ard
Rd.
1 mile east of Highway 95 on Hwy. 54
RETAIL LOCATIONS:
Saturdays: Kootenai County Farmer’s Market Highway 95 and Prairie Ave. Hayden, Idaho Note new time 9:00 AM to 1:30 PM
Wednesdays: Farmer’s Market at Sandpoint Farmin Park, Sandpoint, Idaho 3:00 to 5:30 PM
Wednesdays: Six Rivers Market
www.sixriversmarket.com
By Appointment: The Nursery 7875 E Highway 54 Athol, Idaho Please call first
Calendar of Events
We start selling plants at the May 9
Sandpoint Farmer’s Market
Spokane Garden Expo May 12
Spokane Community College
We start selling plants at the May 19
Kootenai County Farmer’s
Market
Kinnikinnick Native Plant June 2
Society Native Plant Sale
Lakeview Park, Sandpoint
To Find the Nursery:
Place
Stamp
Here
Cedar Mountain Perennials
7875 E Highway 54
Athol ID 83801
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send us an email at: [email protected]