the sage thymes

Worlds of Flavor 2008 Takes Over Greystone

Sage ThymeS The CIA at Greystone Student Newsletter

Vol. 01; Iss. 03

December 18, 2008

Letter from the Editors...............................2Worlds of Flavor.......................................3-5Cat Cora and Paul Bartolotta...................................4Features............................................................6-7Holiday Food...........................................................6Externship Experience.............................................7Greystone News..........................................8Eric Ripert Book Signing..........................................8

AOS 3 Commencement...........................................8New Green Dorm....................................................9Club Updates...........................................................9Napa News...............................................10Copia Closing........................................................10Bottega Open........................................................10Bardanesso Inn.....................................................10Words on Wine..........................................12

St. Clement............................................................12Chenin Blanc.........................................................12Interviews: Nate Appleman and Michael Mina....12Book Review..........................................................14Review: JoLē..........................................................14Upcoming Events......................................15Food Trivia.............................................................15Poetry....................................................................16

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INSIDE THIS ISSUE:

Sauvignon Blanc grapes arriving at Sterling Winery

~Lindsay Bater

On November 6-8, the CIA at Greystone once again drew some of the greatest culinary minds from across the globe for the 11th annual Worlds of Flavor conference. This year’s theme “A Mediterranean Flavor Odyssey: Preserving and Reinventing Traditions for Modern Palates” drew over 90 guest chefs from Italy, France, England, Greece, Spain, Turkey, Israel, Tunisia, Lebanon, and the US. Over 700 chefs, food and wine experts, authors, producers, and other industry members attended the sold out conference, enjoying seminars, kitchen-sesssions, workshops, and the lively barrel-room “marketplace.”

Reflecting on this year’s theme, Executive Director of Strategic Initiatives Greg Drescher commented, “In 25 short years, the U. has gone from a country that regarded olive oil, garlic, and pasta as ethnic and exotic to a nation that today embraces the Mediterranean traditions of small plates—from tapas and antipasti to mezze—as an American dining mega-trend in sync with both declining budgets and big appetites for culinary adventure in the most casual of settings.”

During the opening session, Drescher emphasized that, even though Mediterranean cooking may not be as strange and exotic as it once was, conference attendees should “push further with the untapped flavors of the Mediterranean” and that they should bring a “fresh set of eyes and a fresh palate to what may seem a familiar landscape.” cont’d on p3

Spanish chefs at Worlds of Flavor carving Iberian Ham

2 Sage Thymes Dec 18, 2008

Letter From the Editor

Changing -ThymesIt seems fitting that my graduation from Greystone fell at the end of the calendar year. Every December, we pause to reflect on all that we have accomplished and all that has passed before us in the previous twelve months. This is an ending time in a lot of ways: it’s the end of a term for those students who get a quick winter break; for the Valley vintners it’s finally the end of a long harvest; for the vines it’s a time of hibernation; and for restaurants across Napa, it’s the end of busy turns and many covers and the beginning of a very s-l-o-w season. For me, all of these events conspire to create a winding-down atmosphere that puts a poignant and very palpable period at the end of my time here.

But, “my ending is my beginning” and closed doors apparently mean open windows…. So, it is with my class’s “commencement” that novel changes may arise. As my class (AOS 3) departs Greystone, they also leave openings in the fabric of this school that newer students must fill- the student garden has a new leader, the Student Government is being passed on, and, luckily for me, I have two naively willing successors who will take over this silly paper. It is with great pleasure and pride that I introduce Aneesha Bhogal and Brit Sundin as the new Co-Chief Editors of the Sage Thymes. Not since starting this newsletter have I met two individuals more committed to the writing, researching, editing, and grunt work necessary to put these pages together. Truth be told, I didn’t even have to recruit them- once they started working on the last issue it became an unspoken and evident fact that this paper would soon be theirs. And, once it is, I’m sure the issues that they produce will far surpass anything I was able to accomplish in my short time as editor. When you next see them, please congratulate Aneesha and Brit on their new positions… and maybe even offer to write something for their next issue… Goodbye and thanks for reading,

Lindsay BaterOutgoing Editor

Incoming Sage Thymes editors Aneesha Bhogal and Britny Sundin.

Sage Thymes

EditorLindsay Bater

Contributing Writers

Aneesha BhogalJP Kuhn

Brit SundinNoriko J. UekiScott Walnofer

Faculty AdvisorJoyce Hodgkinson

We are pleased to introduce ourselves as your new Sage Thymes editors, Aneesha Bhogal and Britny Sundin. We would like to extend our deepest gratitude to Lindsay Bater, who is the innovator and founder of the Sage Thymes. We are sad to see her go, but wish her well on her post-CIA endeavors.

Although we can never replace Lindsay and the amazing work she has done, as your new editors, our goal is to continue to provide the students and staff with a fun, interesting, and informative newsletter.

Keep reading and Happy Holidays!

Brit Sundin and Aneesha BhogalIncoming Co-Chief Editors

Hello Greystone!

Dec 18, 2008 Sage Thymes 3

Worlds of Flavorcont’d from p1

During three days, over 65 seminars and workshops were led by guest chefs such as Michelin-starred Italian chef Vito Netti, San Francisco-based Moroccan chef Mourad Lahlou, and CIA alumni Cat Cora and Nate Appleman. Seminar topics ranged from “Delicious Pairings! The Wines of Rioja with the Best of Basque Tapas” and “Aromatics and the Sea: Albariño and the Flavors of Northwest Spain. Italy’s Apulia and Sicily” to “Ancient Flavors, Modern Flavors: The Best of Modern Greek Cooking and The Greek Live Fire Kitchen.”

Chef Ken Woytisek remarked upon the high level of the food being made by the chefs leading seminars saying, “a lot of the dishes I often teach students are being prepared by guest chefs…which gives me the opportunity to have an excellent taste reference for future classes.”

Though technically a three-day event. Greystone staff, chefs, and volunteer students had been preparing far in advance in order to make sure that all aspects of the conference went smoothly. Days before any guest chefs or attendees arrived, the Greystone’s teaching kitchen filled with rented kitchen supplies, new plates, and specially ordered Mediterranean products.

Student volunteer Vanessa Couvrey commented on the level of planning required to make sure that the conference was successful saying, “I’m working with Chef Wong and Chef Tucker, they’re very organized…the requests of some of the (guest) chefs have been very specific…some weren’t too happy when we provided them with boxed pasta…but everything got figured out eventually.”

In addition to observing the “ins-and-outs” of running a massive culinary conference, student volunteers were also exposed to myriad novel techniques and ingredients.

Student Kate Mooring explained, “I knew there’d be a lot of olive oil, garlic, fresh vegetables and legumes…but I was really surprised by things like the outdoor Greek Live Fire kitchen where whole lambs where roasting all day long and octopus as big as my arm was being put on the grill!”

Other students were impressed by Greystone’s 15,000 sq foot barrel room which was transformed by live music, Mediterranean decorations and swaths of colorful fabric into the strikingly bazaar-like “Marketplace.”

ACAP-er Clinton Huntsmen noted, “It’s amazing to see how much that room changes…and how much great food the chefs and sponsors put out…its fun to be exposed to new products too, like the exotic ice creams from Mashti Malone’s, and at the same time you get to see familiar plates made in new ways…I think I ate around a dozen different types of risotto.”

Each year, Worlds of Flavor could not be held without the help of sponsors like Wines from Spain, Sodexo, the Catfish Institute, and Coca Cola. Next year’s conference will be held on November 12-14, 2009. Plans for the theme “Frontiers of Flavor: World Street food, World Comfort Food” are already well underway. For more information about this year’s conference visit www.prochef.com/wof2008

Reaching for exotic flavored ice creams and sorbets.

Whole lamb spit-roasting in the Greek Live-Fire Kitchen.

Student volunteers plating in the Marketplace.

Chef Paul Bartolotta directs student volunteers in the Marketplace.

Marketplace selection of Mediterranean produce


Worlds of Flavor 2008

~Interview by Scott Walnofer

SW: Hello Chef Bartolotta. That was a great demo you just put on. Do you have a quick minute to tackle an interview for the Sage Thymes school newsletter?PB: Sure, but we’ve got to make it quick.SW: No problem, this should be pretty quick and informal.

SW: First off, what type of food do you like to cook?PB: What?SW: Sorry, that was kind of rhetorical. Of course you love Mediterranean-style cuisine.

SW: Can you give me some insider information and reveal what you think the new “flavor” will be in the culinary world?PB: I think you are going to see people step back and return to traditional style cuisine. I mean, don’t get me wrong, but all that Molecular Gastronomy stuff is crap. It is a one time experience for somebody to say that they ate at “his or her chef ’s restaurant.” Come on, how many times is someone going to want to eat a medicine capsule that is infused to taste like a prosciutto wrapped fig with goat cheese. People want the real thing now-a-days and that means experiencing rustic, traditional-style fare that has now become a lost art.

SW: You seem pretty opinionated on this topic, so let’s switch gears. If you could cook next to any other chef here at Worlds of Flavor, who would it be?PB: Well the chef from Puglia. Italy that I just did the demo with…SW: whom- Chef Corrado de Virgillo?PB: Yes. He was doing some incredible things that seem so simple to his style of cooking, but no one else is doing that right now in this country.

SW: So, even though you are essentially teaching at the conference, you are actually learning a few tricks along the way.PB: Of course. If you just keep your eyes open around these cooks from around the world, you are bound to see something new that you can incorporate into your own cooking.

SW: What is the best restaurant on the Vegas Strip right now?PB: I guess it depends on what you like to eat, but if you like classic Italian, I would say Bartolotta Ristorante di Mare located in the Wynn.SW: Is that an invitation for a future Sage Thymes restaurant review?PB: Sure, I’ll set aside a table for you and a guest next time you are in Vegas.SW: See you December 13th. I’ll be in town. Thanks.

PB: Great, do you want to meet my friend Cat?SW: Why yes I do!

PB: Hey Cat, here is a student that would like to meet you……what’s your name again?SW: Hello Chef Catherine Cora, my name is Scott Walnofer. It’s a pleasure to meet you.

CC: No, it’s my pleasure. You can call me Cat. Did you get some good dirt from Chef Paul?SW: Yes I did. By the way, do you have a minute for a quick fire round of Q&A with the Sage Thymes. CC: Of course, but I saw Paul sweating pretty hard over there so you have to promise to take it easy on me.

SW: I see you are signing your latest cookbook, Cooking From the Hip: Fast, Easy, Phenomenal Meals, how many cookbooks does that make for you during your career?CC: I have been a part of so many, but I have two that are my own.

SW: I asked this of Chef Bartolotta, so we can cross reference your answer. “What do you think will be the new “flavor” in the culinary world?CC: No flavor comes to mind, but the cuisines of Asia aren’t going away anytime soon. I really think that they are undiscovered for the most part, and those chefs that can capitalize on bringing those flavors to the American palate are guaranteed success. My style favors a lot of Middle-Eastern flavors and I feel like there is an ever- growing demand for these as the exposure to the culinary styles of these countries reaches the USA. It is a dynamic new world out there for the young chef so go out and find what no one else is doing and make it your own.

SW: What type of fish do you like the best: Spanish Mackerel, Indian Sea Bass, or Arkansas Catfish?CC: Where are you from again?SW: Arkansas actually.CC: Then of course Arkansas Catfish, but I really prefer Mississippi Blue Catfish, just to be honest.SW: Even though you now reside in California, it is good to see that you hold onto your southern roots.

SW: If you could cook next to any other chef here at World’s of Flavor, who would it be?CC: I don’t even know who is here. We just got here.CC: Who would you suggest?SW: That leads nicely into my next question. Who would win in an Iron Chef battle royale between yourself and Chef Bartolotta?PB: Oh, no. Don’t let her fool you, she would beat me into the ground and take my knives with her!CC: Now Paul, you know we wouldn’t get anything cooked because we would be too busy laughing at each other.PB: That’s true. We wouldn’t get half of the dishes plated for the judges.

SW: Sorry to break up the fun, but thank you both for your time. I am needed to clean up your demo. Do you mind snapping a picture for the newsletter?PB: You don’t want my mug in that photo with this pretty girl.CC: Give me a break Paul, get in here.

SW: Thanks again, enjoy the conference, and I will be seeing you soon in Vegas Chef Bartolotta.

Stay tuned for an upcoming review of Bartolotta Ristorante di Mare located in the Wynn Las Vegas…

Talking with Iron Chef Cat Cora and Celebrated Chef Paul Bartolotta


A Mediterranean Flavor Odyssey

Yield: 6 servings

2pt Cherry tomatoes, quartered18 Basil leaves, coarsely chopped1 c Extra-virgin olive oil, plus additional for garnishSea salt (tt)Black pepper (tt)3 c Cannellini beans, cooked18 Caramote prawns* (or shrimp), peeled, heads on

In large mixing bowl, combine tomatoes, basil, olive oil, salt and pepper. Stir vigorously, breaking up tomatoes until ingredients form a rustic sauce. In medium pot, gently warm cannellini beans with a splash of water. Strain beans; add to tomato mixture.In pot of salted, boiling water, poach prawns briefly until just cooked. To serve, divide bean-and-tomato mixture among 6 plates. Top each plate with 3 prawns. Garnish with olive oil; serve immediately.

*Caramote prawns (mazzancolle in Italian) are an Italian variety prized for their large size and deep flavor. Other varieties of medium-to-large prawns or shrimp will work for this recipe.

Yields 4-6 servings

2 T olive oil2 red onions, sliced into thin rings2 T raisins3 T salted, roasted cashew nuts1 red bell pepper, seeded and sliced into thick rings1 yellow bell pepper, seeded and sliced into thick rings1 green bell pepper, seeded and sliced into thick rings4 fresh, firm, ripe tomatoes, blanched, peeled, seeded, and sliced into thick rounds1 1/2 c fish or vegetable stock, or 3/4 c fortified wine (such as sweet sherry or Madeira) mixed with 3/4 c water1 1/2 # catfish filets, cut into 1 1/4” cubesSalt & pepper to taste1 T fresh parsley, chopped

Couscous2 c quick-cooking couscous2 c vegetable stock or water, boiling2 t butter¼ diced carrots¼ pine nuts¼ dried currants1-2 scallions, finely chopped1/2 t salt (optional)

Heat half the oil in a large heavy-based skillet and sauté half the onions on medium to high heat for 6 to 8 minutes, or until very dark golden. Remove the fried onions from the oil, place them on paper towels, and set aside. Fry the raisins in the same hot oil until they plump. Remove with the slotted spoon and add to the fried onions. Fry the cashews for about 1 minute. Remove and add to the raisin-and-onion mix.

Add the remaining oil to the skillet and fry the other half of the onions until golden. Add the bell peppers and continue cooking for about 10 minutes, or until the peppers are soft. Add the tomatoes and the stock, partially cover, and cook for about 10 minutes on medium to low heat.

Stir the fish through the onion and pepper mixture. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Continue simmering for 10 minutes, or until the fish is tender. Do not forget to stir periodically to prevent sticking.

To make the couscous, place the couscous grains in a large, deep dish with a lid. Pour in the boiling stock and stir in the butter, carrots, scallions, pine nuts, dried currants and salt. Cover and set aside to keep warm for about 15 minutes so the couscous can absorb the liquid and swell up.

Carefully pour the fish mixture over the couscous and gently fold it through to mix thoroughly into a colorful presentation. Sprinkle with the onion rings, raisins, cashew nuts, and the parsley.

Serve hot immediately.

Cat Cora’s North African Cousotto

Paul Bartolotta’s Caramote Prawns with Cannellini Beans

Scott Walnofer with Chefs Cora and Bartolotta. Chef Cora graduated from Hyde Park in 1995.


Holiday Food: Tweaking Tradition~Brit Sundin

My favorite time of year has finally arrived- holiday time. The reason for my profound love of this occasion is not reuniting with family, exchanging gifts, giving thanks, or any of that silly stuff…no, my love springs from the glorious food that accompanies Thanksgiving and Christmas. The moment the calendar lands on November first, my mouth starts to water and visions of succulent turkeys, sweet pumpkin bread, creamy mashed potatoes, roasted brussel sprouts, and warm apple pie flood my mind. To me, these foods, in addition to a few others, represent traditional holiday fare, but traditions aren’t necessarily enduring.

Each year, it seems magazines, books, and TV shows advertise new and interesting twists on old staples, adding a little flair to the solid, but potentially monotonous, holiday standards. After doing a little research (Fine Cooking, Better Homes and Gardens, Food Magazine), I’ve come across some new holiday food trends you might find intriguing…and if you’re brave enough to depart from the familiar, these recipes are sure to provide a festive tweak to your traditions, and may even establish some new ones.

What’s the first thing you think about consuming when holiday mealtime is mentioned? If you said spiked eggnog, clearly you’re thinking about having to deal with that weird aunt who’s addicted to prescription painkillers and tells inappropriate jokes in an unnecessarily loud voice. Barring any self-medicating family members, the first thing that should pop into your head is turkey. The good old bird has been gracing American tables for generations, but it never really seems to change. Sure, there’s the deep-fried turkey (or as I like to call it, the “burn your house down” turkey), but is there another method of preparation that can add something really exciting to this featured fowl? You’re darn tootin’.

This year, deviate from the typical rosemary, thyme, salt, and pepper seasonings and paint your turkey with a raspberry chipotle glaze. The fruity, tangy coating is a fun addition to the mild turkey flavor. Another glaze takes the sweet and savory approach with apricot preserves and pungent Dijon mustard- the intense flavors also lend themselves well to leftover turkey sandwiches.

Turkey tip: Many people tend to have a hard time roasting turkeys- it can be very difficult achieving a perfectly cooked, succulent bird with rich, crispy brown skin. It usually turns out that you sacrifice crispness and color for moisture, or vice versa. You just can’t get both, right? Wrong. The good people of Fine Cooking ,agazine have come up with a great method in which both succulence and golden-crisp skin are possible. By cutting out the backbone and butterflying the turkey, you create a flatter, more uniform piece of meat that cooks not only more evenly, but more quickly as well. Try it and see that moisture and crispness are a sure thing.

Now that we’ve discussed the main course, we must give a bit of attention to the side dishes. Everyone is used to the basics, but sometimes it can be good to think outside the box (or can, or bag) and risk serving a new twist on typical fare- you and your family might be pleasantly surprised. Take those plain old mashed potatoes and give them an extra boost of texture and flavor with creamy roasted garlic, caramelized onions, and fresh sage. Or get really crazy and forget the mash altogether and try a potato goat cheese gratin. You can give that dull-gray, bland stuffing a makeover by swapping out the white bread for cornbread tossed with onions, pecans, celery, sage, white wine, and chicken broth. Maybe add some Cajun spices for a real kick. As far as green bean casserole, I know everyone loves the canned beans with Campbell’s cream of mushroom soup,

but this year, try finding fresh green beans and make your own creamy mushroom sauce with a brown butter roux, white wine, cream, onions, and fresh mushrooms. But be sure not to mess with the unrivaled topping- canned French fried onions.

If you’re bored with the swee t e r - than -de s s e r t candied sweet potatoes, tone it down a little by mixing in some sharp cheddar, then topping with roasted apples, caramelized onions, and thyme. The sweet and salty contrast will keep the sugar from overwhelming your palate. Also, try a savory and exotic approach by adding garam masala, raisins, and cashews- the Indian flavor will be a surprising and welcome update.

And that gravy in which you used to drown the turkey when it was dry (you don’t have that problem anymore, do you?) can be more than just a vehicle for adding extra moisture. Take the pan drippings from the roasted turkey, deglaze with dry white wine, then add flour, chicken stock, heavy cream, then finish with a generous splash of bourbon- you’ll want to drink the gravy along with that eggnog.

Last, but not least, we arrive at the waistband-busting finale- dessert. Whatever the desserts of choice at your family gathering, I think it’s safe to say the typical sweet endings are pumpkin and apple pie. Apple pie is an unequivocal classic, and the 11th commandment might have read “thou shalt not alter the perfection that is apple pie,” but I’m going to present you with a little update anyway…take it or leave it. Apple cranberry pie combines two classic holiday flavors and melds them into one awesome pastry. Add a layer of sweet-tart cranberries to the bottom of your pie, then top with your favorite apple pie filling and you have a tangy new pie that still pleases the strict traditionalist at the table.

And here’s a great little pie crust tip I can’t keep to myself: vodka. Instead of adding only water to your crust, add a mixture of half vodka and half water. Why? Because gluten in flour (which is the culprit for tough dough) develops in water, but not ethanol (vodka is 40% ethanol), the vodka allows you to add more moisture which makes the crust easier to roll out and still maintains that light flakiness we crave. Neat, huh?

Finally, I’ll end on the enduring and ubiquitous pumpkin pie. Now brace yourselves, folks. I’m going out on a limb here, but bear with me. Pumpkin cheesecake. This decadent dessert is eons beyond its blah pumpkin pie cousin- it’s rich, creamy, and delicately sweet, striking just the right balance between too much and not quite enough. Top this “pie” with brown sugar bourbon whipped cream and watch the family swoon… then take a long, much needed digestive nap.

I hope these ideas and tips have helped with this year’s and future holiday meals. If you’re craving something traditional with a modern twist, these recipes are sure to provide a good balance that will please everyone. Cheers.

Pumpkin pie cheesecake- see recipe on p7


~Noriko J. Ueki

My journey into the heart of the Sonoran Desert began earnestly in March 2007. I left Hyde Park and the thawing winter’s icy clutches for the temperate embrace of Tucson, Arizona. I had just wrapped up Garde Manger with all the wonders of forcemeat and aspic and survived the second term practical. I was more than ready to be released from the mystical confinement of “Hogwarts” and enter the workforce as an extern.

In retrospect, I’m not quite sure what I was actually expecting from my temporary relocation. I suppose I thought I’d get to practice my knife skills, add to my flavor memory bank, meet some characters and make those “connections” everyone talks about. While I can say that I did all of those, my most precious stories come from what happened along the way to reaching those goals.

My first unexpected lesson came from a common practice I had picked up at school. After a particularly disastrous night of service involving a temperamental batch of tuile batter, I decided I would save myself a little bit of heartache by coming in a little early to get myself situated. The Chef, who normally didn’t seem to mind early arrivals, saw that I had walked through the door fifteen minutes before my shift, followed me to the line, glared straight into my eyes and swiftly booted me from the kitchen. It was such a surreal moment, a little mind-numbing at first, but eventually came to terms that I had just been yelled at in front of everyone for coming to work early. That night, I learned to be ready for anything.

Humility was also an integral component of my experience. I found those moments sneaking up on me while performing the most simple tasks- like the time I attempted to remove a flimsy trash bag from its receptacle only to find that it contained perhaps twice the

amount it was capable of holding. This tragic combination coupled with the desire to prove that I was just “one of the guys” resulted in the bag tearing and purging a dozen or so empty wine bottles, coffee grounds, crusts of bread, and a soupy mixture of uneaten vinaigrettes and sauces. A classy group of patrons at a nearby table loudly displayed their acclaim for my performance. I learned that night you can never be too humble.

For every unpleasant recollection, though, I have about ten wonderfully funny stories to look back on. The song “Umbrella,” for example, still elicits the image of the sous chef, a 6’2”, 225 pound, former line-backer, jamming out in the kitchen while pureeing a batch of fava beans, putting on the best Rihanna impersonation I have seen to date. Likewise, Red Stripe beer reminds me of my friendship with a bewitching Jamaican prep cook which led to my first green card marriage proposal. There was also that time when I was so happy I had finally convinced some of the line cooks that I was cool enough to hang out with them after work. That evening ended with a drive through the mountain side and us jumping out for some fresh air, and leaning on a shadowy figure only to come to the painful realization that what I found was not a rock but a stubby cactus. On that particular night, I learned to never make assumptions in the dark or you might end up hugging a cactus.

As my fellow classmates and I head into the few remaining months of the program, I cannot help but get excited when I hear of their externship plans and hope that one day they will share their future adventures. And so for those of you who have their externships to look forward to: Brace yourselves, you are about to have more fun than I think you realize. Good luck!

The (Mis)adventures of a Southwestern Externship

Crust:5oz graham cracker crust3 T sugar1/2 t each of ginger, cinnamon, and cloves6 T unsalted butter

Filling:1 1/3 c sugar1 t cinnamon1/2 t ginger1/4 t each of nutmeg, cloves, and allspice1/2 t salt15 oz canned pumpkin1 1/2 pounds cream cheese1 T vanilla1 T lemon juice5 eggs1 c heavy cream

Bourbon cream topping:1 c heavy cream1/2 c sour cream1/3 c brown sugar1/8/ t salt2 t bourbon

Crust:Blend all crust in gradients together, press into greased 9 in spring form pan and bake at 325 degrees for about 15 minutes until golden brown.

Filling: remove excess moisture from pumpkin (press between paper towels on a baking sheet). Mix sugar, salt, and spices in a bowl and set aside. Beat cream cheese in a stand mixer until soft and add 1/3 of sugar mixture and beat about 1 minute. Add 1/3 and mix, then final 1/3 and mix until fully incorporated, scraping the sides of the bowl. Add pumpkin, vanilla, lemon juice and beat until combined. Add 3 eggs, mix, then final 2 eggs and mix until incorporated. Wrap springform pan in 3 layers of foil and pour filling on top of crust. Set pan in roasting dish and fill with boiling water about halfway up the pan. Bake for about 90 minutes at 325 until almost set. Remove from oven and run knife around the edge to loosen. Let cool on a wire rack for about an hour then remove side of pan, cover, and refrigerate.

Bourbon Cream Topping:Whisk all ingredients until combined and refrigerate until ready to serve. Beat until fluffy and doubled in volume, then spoon over slices of cheesecake. Enjoy!

Pumpkin Cheesecake


Happening At Greystone~Lindsay Bater

On December 12th, Eric Ripert, celebrated chef at the three Michelin starred Le Bernardin, spoke to Greystone students and signed copies of his new book On the Line: The Stations, The Heat, The Cooks, The Coast, The Chaos, and the Triumphs.

This is Ripert’s third book. His first, the Le Bernardin Cookbook: Four Star Simplicity focused on the celebrated seafood recipes at his restaurant. His second book, A Return to Cooking, followed Ripert, two photographers, a painter, and writer Michael Ruhlman, as they traveled to different locales looking for “inspiration and improvisation” in their settings as well as in Ripert’s impromptu creations.

Ripert described his new book as a “VIP backstage pass to what’s going on behind the scenes” at Le Bernardin, emphasizing that is was not “necessarily a recipe book.” Although recipes can be found within its pages, the vast majority of the book is made up of charming anecdotes, photographs, insets and lists such as “What’s in the Pantry?,” “A Sample Week of Staff Meals,” a “Le Bernardin Glossary,” and “How to Fold a Madeleine Napkin.” One of Ripert’s favorite sections is the restaurant’s list of “129 Cardinal Sins” or “Monumentally Magnificent Trivialities.”

According to Ripert, “Each time we see a mistake or see someone doing something wrong, we document it or discuss it…right now the list is actually 136 sins long.”

In addition to discussing his book, Ripert also told students about what it takes to work at Le Bernardin. No matter what background a he or she has, every new cook at the restaurant starts out at the garde manger station. Apparently, it takes more than two and a

half years for a cook to train through every station on the line- culminating in a position as saucier.

“Sauce is the most fascinating aspect of cooking,” said Ripert. “It takes three years of experience to be good enough to do what we do with sauce…sauce making is artistry.”

Ripert also discussed his close connection to cooking fish. “(The) fish station seemed to be the destiny of my life,” Ripert said noting that he had worked fish stations under Joel Robouchon and David Bouley as well as at the Watergate Hotel before arriving at the seafood-focused Le Bernardin.

The chef also touched upon the delicate topic of sustainable fisheries, “people come to Le Bernardin to have a good time…we don’t want to give them a guilt treatment…but we support SeaWeb and the Monterey Bay Aquarium. In our menu, we mention five or six endangered fish we believe our customers should know about…ninety percent of our fish is wild…but it is caught in a very artisanal way..using day boats. Supporting day boats and small fisheries is the future.”

On a less serious note, Ripert told students that his favorite fish was east coast halibut saying, “it is incredible in terms of texture..silky, flakey, and it retains a lot of juice. In terms of flavor it is very refined.”

For more information about Chef Ripert, Le Bernardin, and On the Line, visit www.le-bernardin.com

Chef Eric Ripert Speaks about his New Book On the Line

~Lindsay Bater

On December 5th, one of the most-loved classes to pass through Greystone graduated, moving on to externship sites across the country.

During their fifteen months at Greystone, AOS 3 (the third class of its kind at Greystone) observed, and was influential in, many changes at the school. Since arriving in August of 2007, AOS 3 watched the student body size expand greatly. Many of the programs these newer students now enjoy (Garden Club, Sports Club, Student Government, this paper) were created and/or greatly expanded by AOS 3 students.

Chef Almir DaFonseca, the student-chosen speaker at commencement and three-time teacher of the class, commented on the students, “There are many things I can say about the AOS 3 Class. Great class, a much focused group of young culinarians, very passionate and with great heads over their shoulders. I experienced this group for three classes, and each class I was able to get great production out of this group, consistently great production and amazing participation.”

Chef Marcos Hernandez seconded these thoughts saying, “This is the best class I’ve seen come through here. These students are passionate about food and cooking and all genuinely care about

doing things to the best of their abilities. I’m really going to miss this class.”

After a commencement ceremony with words from Chefs DaFonseca, Busby, and guest speaker Chef Michael Mina, the AOS 3 students enjoyed a special lunch with friends and families and then said their goodbyes.

Newly graduated Poncho Vasquez remarked, “I’ve seen you guys almost everyday for fifteen months…it’s going to be very strange not to be together anymore.”

Graduate Garrett Benedict seconded those thoughts, “Looking back on the last fifteen months, I can’t believe I’m finally leaving this building…I’ve great memories of this building and I’m blown away by how much I’ll miss feeling the effects of a CIA-induced food coma.”

With a few exceptions, for the next for to five months, AOS3 students will move on to externships across the country before officially graduating in May of 2009. The remarkable list of restaurants students will be working at includes- Per Se, , August, The French Laundry, Bouchon, Ad Hoc, Bottega, Chez Panisse,

AOS 3 Graduation

Some of Le Bernardin’s Cardinal Sins or“Monumentally Magnificent Trivialities”

7. Forks with bent tines.23. Murky or smelly water in flower vases.94. Answering a question with a question.

99. Obvious hangovers102. Excuses for anything- anytime.

122. Popping a champagne cork.


~from a CIA Greystone Press Release

The Culinary Institute of America at Greystone has begun construction on a new dormitory for students that will be one of the greenest buildings in Napa Valley. The college has been approved to build a 31-unit student housing facility that will hold 60 students and incorporate state of the art eco-friendly technology designed to reach a minimum of LEED gold certification. The building is expected to be finished in summer of 2009.

Increased student enrollment at the not-for-profit culinary college combined with the lack of affordable housing in the area has created the need for the new building. Creating an eco-friendly dorm from scratch is an opportunity CIA administrators are very excited about.

“This is a chance to show our students and our community how we can make a positive environmental impact, and how it can be done in an economical way,” says Charles E. Henning, managing director at the CIA at Greystone.

The 12,000 square foot building is being constructed next to an existing 40-unit student dorm on Pratt Avenue, a little more than a mile from Greystone. Water conservation is one of the biggest goals of the project with the installation of low flow sinks, toilets and showers. Water will be recycled through a membrane bio reactor

(MBR) which will treat used water to a tertiary standard, then used to irrigate the landscaped yard, wash clothing in the machines provided, and for flushing toilets.

Solar panels will heat water used in the facility and collect energy for electrical power. A new variant refrigerant volume system (VRV) will allow students to have temperature control in their own rooms while using energy efficiently. Materials from a small storage building on the property will be recycled and used in the new project where possible. For instance, cinderblock from the building will be crushed and used as a base for a parking lot.

The outside of the building will have a contemporary farmhouse look, fitting of the style of Napa Valley wine country. Builders say the structure will have clean lines, numerous windows to provide natural light, and the solar panels will be worked into an integral part of the design.

“Students who are fortunate enough to live in this new housing will be energized by it,” says lead contractor Bob Massaro of Healthy Buildings Management Group in Napa. “It is a physical testament to the CIA’s ideal of a strong connection to a healthy environment, good food and wine, and good health.”

Greystone Breaks Ground on New Green Dorm

On December 3rd, 2008 the Greenthumbers of the CIA sadly said there goodbyes to the graduating AOS 3 class, who have contributed so much to flourishing Greystone garden. Current garden caretaker, Michael Fojtasek stated, “We are going to miss our AOS 3ers who have done so much to put us where we are now. There’s no way we can replace them.” Due to their dedication and hard work, it was decided that as a tribute to AOS 3, in the Spring, an apple tree will be planted in their honor.

Although AOS 3 has departed, the garden is still busier than ever, as chicken boxes have now been incorporated, and cover crops are being planted. They can always use helping hands for planting, weeding, composting, and well, whatever people are willing to do. There is always enough room for volunteers, whenever possible, and it is a great way to spend a Saturday morning.

If you are interested joining the Garden Club, please attend the meetings on Wednesday evenings at 9:00pm in the Ventura Center.

Hey all you Explorers, looking to spice up your CIA experience? Join our newly organized club, Edible Exploration!

The Edible Exploration Club is geared towards capitalizing on each student’s education at the CIA. This club will give students a chance to discover all the Valley has to offer, outside the walls of Greystone. As culinarians, we know that our education is by no means limited to what we learn in the kitchen or from our glorious textbooks. We are explorers by nature and this club is a great way to inspire the mind and feed your “foodie” soul! Take a look at what we’re up to:

Our Most Recent Field Trips:Oktoberfest with Chef Brenda: Bob Peak of “The Beverage People” shared with us the science behind Home-brewing and made a CIA inspired beer, which the students help create! Chef Brenda prepared an authentic Oktoberfest feast of Brats, mustard tasting, Root Beer, and German Chocolate Cake! The day concluded with rides in Mr. La Noue’s Armoured Vehicle from WWII. A great day!

Lagunitas Brewery in Petaluma gave a Tour and Tasting featuring a plethora of beer samples and lunch prepared by our Brewmaster tour guides! Ace Hard Cider in Sebastapol was next, where we learned about the process of making hard cider as well as the varieties of flavors made.

Upcoming Events in 2009: Don’t miss Edible Exploration in the New Year as we explore some great places!

Featured Field Trips in the Month of January:1. Berkley Trip: A tour of Chez Panisse as well as the infamous Alice Water’s Edible Education garden, followed by a tour of Scharffen Berger and lunch in Berkley.2. Oyster and Fishing trip in Inverness at the Drakes Bay Oyster Farm.3. Winery Exploration a Two-Part Field Trip: Part One will consist of local Napa Valley Winery tours and tastings, part two consists of a comparative tour and tasting in Sonoma Valley! A wonderful way to explore your wine palate!

For more information on the club or to find our when club meetings are scheduled contact:Hayley ChristopherPresident, Edible [email protected]

Thank you and Happy Exploring!

News from the Greystone Student Garden

An Edible Explorations Update


~Aneesha Bhogal

Copia, the American Center for Wine, Food, and the Arts, filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy on Monday December 1, 2008. According to the Napavalleyregister.com, chief executive Gary McGuire released a statement regarding Copia’s financial state.

McGuire stated, “We recently have taken intensive measures to overcome our deteriorating liquidity position. The decision to restructure the business through Chapter 11 filing should provide us the opportunity to strengthen our balance sheet, create a more efficient expense structure and ultimately position our public-benefit corporation to compete more effectively.”

Copia owes approximately $78 million to bankers and there are 385 creditors listed in the bankruptcy filing, several of them being local businesses. Valentin Humer, who owns a local food and wine

store, is one of the many local operations which Copia currently owes. According to the Napa Valley Register Valentin stated, “We are a small family business. Three thousand dollars is a big deal for us. It takes quite a few months to recoup from something like that.”

Copia hopes to regain stability and long-term success by restructuring financial expenses and significantly cutting unnecessary costs. Additionally, rofitability plans for new facilities which offer food and wine classes for enthusiasts are in the works.

In a Copia press release, Gary McGuire stated, “We understand how difficult the recent insecurity about Copia’s staff, members, and supporters. I want to thank everyone for their continued loyalty and dedication as we move forward to position Copia for long term success.”

Copia Closes, Files for Chapter 11

~Lindsay Bater

On December 5th, the celebrity chef and CIA alum Michael Chiarello returned to the kitchen with the much-anticipated opening of Bottega in Yountville.

According to a restaurant press release “Bottega,” which translates to “artist’s studio” in Italian, features Chiarello’s “big, bold Italian flavors…but with a more refined twist” and “highlights the bounty of artisanally produced as well as house made ingredients.”

By being a daily presence in his kitchen, Chiarello hopes that he will impart the feel of a “craftsman’s workshop” onto his restaurant- the cuisine of which will be an amalgamation of rustic Italian and fresh/organic Californian “farm-to-table” styles. Chiarello is assisted in the kitchen by CIA alums Chef de Cuisine Nick Ritchie and pasta station cook Taylor Mason.

There are over thirty items on Bottega’s vast dinner menu-with Stuzzechini (bites to share), Anitpasti, Paste, Secondi, and Contorni (vegetable sides) options. Featured dishes include Warm Pecorino Cheese “Pudding” with Wood-Oven Roasted Rapini; House made Veal Tortellini in Brodo di Carne with Browned Butter, Butternut Squash and Sage; Seared Day-Boat Scallops with Pink Chickpea Passatina, Cauliflower in “Agrodolce;” and Wood-Oven Roasted Whole Fish with Meyer Lemon, Shaved Fennel Citrus Salad.

Chiarello’s wine list features several Californian and Italian wines in

addition to bottles from his own wine-making operation Chiarello Family Vineyards According to Chiarello, many of the list’s bottles are “reasonably priced to encourage tastings.”

Bottega itself is located in the 140 year old V Marketplace building. The interior, created by architect Michael Guthrie and graphic designer Michael Mabry, was designed to reflect the restaurant’s cuisine-“celebrating both the rustic and refined.” Inside there are seats for 118 in two dining rooms with and additional private dining/wine room. Bottega also features and open kitchen with an exposed wood burning oven. The covered “terrazzo” outside seats 66 and features two outdoor fireplaces in addition to a “lounge” area which, weather permitting, may be open for late night dining.

Since leaving his executive chef position at Tra Vigne, Chiarello focused on many culinary-related ventures including television shows on the Food Network and Fine Living channels as well as opening NapaStyle stores in five cities throughout California. Early this year, Michael Chiarello returned to Napa Valley to open another NapaStyle retail outlet in Yountville’s V Marketplace.

Bottega and NapaStyle are located at Vintage Estate’s V Marketplace, 6525 Washington Street, Yountville. NapaStyle is open everyday from 10am to 6pm. Bottega is open for lunch and dinner seven days a week: 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-9:30pm (Su-Th), 5:30-10 (F/S). For more information call (707) 945 1050 or visit www.botteganapavalley.com

The Bardessono, a hotel and spa being built in Yountville, is due to open in February 2009. Located on an 80-year-old, 6- acre farm owned by the Bardessono family, this hotel will feature 62-rooms as well as a 92-seat restaurant.

Some of the most remarkable attributes this inn offers are its environmentally friendly features found throughout the entire building. Each of the guest’s rooms will incorporate motion sensors so that all lights, televisions, radios, etc. will automatically turn off when the rooms are vacant. Rooms will be kept warm during the winter months through large glass expansions which naturally attract sun rays. Additionally, motorized venetian blinds will installed in the room’s exterior for temperature control and natural lighting.

Other earth friendly attributes throughout the inn include low

water flow toilets, flooring made from recycled materials, and fluorescent or LED lighting. The outside of the Bardessono is just as environmentally conscious as its interior- incorporating water efficient irrigation systems and drought resistive landscaping.

The restaurant at the Bardessono, run by executive Chef Sean O’Tool, will primarily use local and organic products whenever possible. Product utilization will be top priority and all plant products from the restaurant that are unusable will be composted.

For more information or for reservations visit www.bardessono.com or call 707-204-6000.

News In Napa

Eco-Friendly Restaurant and Inn to Open in Yountville

Chiarello’s Bottega Open at Last


Words on Wine~Aneesha Bhogal

Nestled along the hillsides of the Saint Helena Highway is a quaint little boutique winery with exceptional labels for patrons to enjoy. Located on a picturesque antique estate overlooking the valley, St. Clement Vineyards is a small production winery that focuses heavily on crafting red wines-primarily their award-winning single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, and their flagship label, Oroppas. First conceived in 1991 by former winemaker Dennis Johns, this Bordeaux blend has put St. Clement on the map for creating some of the most unique tasting fine wines in Napa.

Current winemaker, Danielle Cyrot, spends countless hours perfecting each wine made by St. Clement Vineyards. The single vineyard Cabernets from Progeny Vineyard in Mt. Veeder, Star Vineyard in Rutherford, Steinhauer Ranch in Howell Mountain, and Armstrong Ranch in Diamond Mountain are each highly rated by critics for complexity and depth of flavor. St. Clement’s philosophy when producing wine is based on the diversity of soils and climates that the Napa Valley has to offer. Cyrot carefully selects fruit from North Calistoga to Carneros valley, creating the foundation of St. Clement’s robust and full flavored wines.

When visiting St. Clement, guests can opt to enjoy their tasting on the gorgeous outdoor patio overlooking St Helena. Cheese or chocolate tastings are offered for an additional charge, and when finished, tasters may take the platter home as a souvenir. The beauty of St. Clement is not only offered in their wines, but in the quaint and intimate setting in which the tastings are offered.

St. Clement is located at 2867 St. Helena Highway North, St. Helena and is open daily from10am to 5pm For more information visit www.stclement.com or call 707.265.5000.

Vineyard to Visit: St Clement

~Lindsay Bater

What a dramatic fall from grace Chenin Blanc has had! Once one of the best selling wines of the 1970s (and still the third-most planted cultivar in California) most of this varietal’s grapes are now used merely as blending agents in mass-produced jug wines. Though greatly overshadowed by Chardonnays, Rieslings, and Sauvignon Blancs, a steadily growing number of quality Chenin Blancs labels from across the globe are quietly redeeming the grape’s tarnished reputation.

Undoubtedly, Chenin Blanc’s most distinguishing characteristic is its versatility. This thin skinned, high acid grape produces quality dry and off dry whites, sparkling wines, dessert wines, and even some brandies. Because of Chenin Blanc grapes’ pronounced acidity, this white flourishes in warmer viticultural areas where other whites tend to turn out flabby. The grape has thrived for more than a century in South Africa (where it is known as “steen”) and Clarksburg in California’s Central Valley consistently bottles high quality expressions of the varietal.

Despite an uncanny affinity for warm climates, it is in France’s cooler Loire Valley where Chenin Blancs exhibit the most complex reflections of both the grape and its terroir. Within the Loire, the AOC of Vouvray is practically synonymous with Chenin Blanc which is used to produce dry, off, dry, sparkling and dessert wines. In the Coteaux de la Loire, botrytized Chenin Blanc grapes produce Bonnezeaux, Quarts de Chaume, and Savennières which are some of the most age-worthy and expensive wines in all of France. Unfortunately, the unsurpassed quality of these wines mostly goes unnoticed- as Robert Parker pointed out to the New York Times, “Savennières is the most underrated great white wine in the world.”

It’s difficult to pin down a few adjectives that best exemplify Chenin Blancs because the wines this grape produces are so diverse. Well made dry whites from the Loire are often described as “straw-like” with wines from Anjou often exhibiting apple, melon, and quince notes while off-dry Vouvrays and botrytized Chenin Blancs often exhibit honey and floral tones. “Moldy straw” and “wet gym sock” are markers often found in poorly made examples of this grape.

Common descriptors: melon, quince, beeswax, honeyMajor growing areas: Loire Valley, Clarksburg, South AfricaRecommended pairings: mild cheeses, salads, white poultry, fish and seafood with cream sauces

Affordable bottles to try: Casa Nuestra Dry Chenin Blanc, Old Vines, 2007,Napa; MAN Vintners Chenin Blanc, 2007 South Africa

Varietal to Try- Chenin Blanc


~Interviewed by Lindsay Bater

Chef Nate Appleman is the co-owner and executive chef at the restaurants A16 and SPQR, both located in San Francisco. After graduating from the CIA in 1999, Appleman traveled to Italy where he fell in love with the cuisine. In addition to receiving three and a half stars for A16 from the San Francisco Chronicle, Appleman has been twice nominated for the James Beard Foundation’s Rising Chef of the Year Award.

Your first restaurant, A16 serves “Campagnian” cuisine- what exactly is that? It’s my version of Southern Italian (from Camapagna) cuisine but the chances that you’re going to Campagna and going to find the exact dishes on my menu are very slim. It’s not a replication exactly…

Can you describe your cooking style? “Anti-French.” I started at 14 and worked with a lot of French chefs and the CIA has a French curriculum. I would be able to do little without the rigid discipline and technique I learned but I’ve always had a problem with authority…what I do has very little to do with French food. It’s rustic, Italian, meat-centric. I’m a butcher first a cook and chef second.

Why is that? I’m really against commodity meat. I support movements like Slow Food where you can find some guys raising incredible meat. These are animals that are given plenty of space to roam and are not confined- but for that to happen it’s very expensive. I try to support artisanal operations. At A16, with the exception of cows, was are also buying and using the whole animal. At our new restaurant we are going to have a setup where we can even butcher whole cows.

Your new restaurant? Urbino. In San Francisco’s “Dogpatch.” It’s an up and coming area.

What brought you to San Francisco? There’s always the argument New York or San Francisco. New York has the most famous chefs but the doesn’t mean the best food. I’d put San Francisco ahead of New York. I know we have the best ingredients in the country.

Can you tell me about your time at the CIA? It was great. I was straight out of school. Seventeen and I’d hated high school- I don’t think I took a book home. My first Hyde Park class was Culinary Math- and I got an A! I realized I actually enjoyed doing it so I really focused on school. I learned a tremendous amount at the CIA…though there were a lot of students who didn’t learn a lot…

To learn more about Chef Appleman visit a16sf.com or buy his newly published book A16: Food + Wine.

Michael Mina is the Executive Chef of Mina Group, Inc which, to date, has opened up fourteen restaurants across the country. His eponymous/flagship restaurant, Michael Mina, has been awarded four stars by the San Francisco Chronicle. A recipient of the Rising Star Chef award and the James Beard Foundation’s Best California Chef Award, Mina also received the CIA’s Master of Aesthetics of Hospitality when he addressed Greystone’s AOS 3 class at their commencement. Mina graduated from the CIA at Hyde Park in 1989

Can you explain to me the inspiration behind your signature “trios?” I played around with the trios idea at Aqua. I wanted to

emphasize California seasonal produce. The individual component dishes of the trios themselves are simplistic but put together they create a “simple complexity.”

What do you think of other restaurants adopting the trio concept? I think some people adopt pieces of the idea but to do it the way I did is really hard. It was a commitment from the beginning- my whole kitchen was laid out to produce those plates. Anybody can’t do that…San Francisco was my most difficult restaurant to open…it went well but it was enormous work building the trios.

What drew you to San Francisco? I came here once on vacation with my family and I fell in love. It’s a magical city. The more time you spend here…the more hidden treasures you find and the more you learn.

What’s the future of Mina Group, Inc? Well we just opened (XIV) in LA And this December we’re opening in DC (Bourbon Steak) at the Georgetown Four Seasons. In Sanf Francisco, we’re in the process of building RN74 which is a restaurant wine bar. Jason Berthold is the executive chef…he’s also a really good wine maker. And our wine program is directed by sommelier Rajat Parr who is also a vintner. We’re also opening up American Fish at the new Las Vegas CityCenter.

Can you tell me about your time at the CIA? It was split into two completely different experiences. The first year was a little overwhelming…but I had a great class we were so close and everyone worked together. The second year, after my extern, I got a lot of confidence. I had great instructors too…it was a very well rounded experience…I felt like I got a lot out of the school.

Any advice for Greystone graduates? Don’t give up on studying…the things you feel like you don’t have to do after school you have to do more. There’s so much out there right now…and knowledge gives you confidence.

To learn more about Chef Mina visit michaelmina.net or seek out his book Michael Mina: The Cookbook

The Thymes Speaks with Two San Francisco-Based CIA Alum Chefs

Nate Appleman (A16, SPQR, Urbino)

Michael Mina (Mina Group, Inc)

Nate Appleman prepares pastiera (see recipe on p13) at Worlds of Flavors


yield: 1/4 sheet tray or 9”cake pan.

Crostata Crust2 1/3 c flour1/3 c sugar½ t salt1 t Baking powder6 oz butter, cut into cubes½ t orange flower water1 t vanilla bean paste1 egg1 yolk¼ c cream

Filling1.5# ricotta, lightly drained1 T orange flower water¼ c chopped candied orange peel½ t cinnamon powder1 c farro, cooked with 1 tbs salt and ¼ cup sugar200g. mascarpone1 T +2 t cornstarch½ c sugar3 eggs1 lemon zest½ c chopped whole natural almonds- toasted

Crust:In a food processor, combine flour, sugar, salt, baking powder. Whisktogether in a bowl the egg, cream, yolk, orange flower water, and vanilla bean paste. Set aside. Scatter the butter over the flour in the food processor and pulse until the mixture is sandy/crumbly.Transfer the mixture to a cold kitchen aid bowl. add the egg mixture in a stream to the flour mixture and mix with a paddle just until the egg is incorporated (just a minute- not until the dough is smooth). Alternately, you could do this last step by hand.Store dough in flat packages. Rest for 4 hours before use.

Filling:Whisk together cinnamon, cornstarch, and sugar. Robotcoup ricotta until smooth. Paddle ricotta with mascarpone, sugar mixture, lemon zest, and orange flower water. Add eggs one at a time, scraping between each addition. Fold in almonds, farro, and candied orange peel. Pour into unbaked lined 9” cake pan or ¼ sheet tray. Top with lattice, and sprinkle with sugar. Bake at 375 for 15 minutes. Lower heat to 325 degrees and bake until filling is set and lattice is a deep golden brown. Cool completely before serving.

Nate Appleman’s Pastiera

yield: four servings

Poached in Coconut jus with Fennel4 Scallops, Preferably live or DayboatsCoconut jus:2 c chicken stock3 c coconut milk1 c coconut juice1 t red curry paste (find in most supermakets)1 T brown sugar2 Lemongrass-thinly sliced2” ginger thinly sliced6 lime leaves, can be bought at any asian marketlime juice ttsea salt tt1 baby fennel-thinly sliced

In a medium sized pot, combine stock, coconut milk, coconut juice, red curry paste and brown sugar. Bring to boil over medium heat and return to simmer for 30 minutes. Add lemongrass, ginger, and lime juice and infuse for 10 minutes. Add salt to taste. Strain and return to a pan. Add 4 scallops and poach for about 4 minutes until just cooked through. Season with lime juice to taste. Plate each scallop in a shallow dish. Add ¼ of the shaved fennel to each dish. Pour ¼ of the broth over each dish.

Seared with Parmesan, Potato and Pancetta4 Scallops, Preferably live or DayboatsCaramelized Potato Broth4 Yukon Gold Potatoes, peeled and cut in large dice4 Ta Olive oil 1 T Butter 2 cloves garlic, either roasted or poached in olive oil

½ bay leaf1 sprig thyme8 c Chicken Stock White pepper tt4 t shaved parmesan4 thin slices of pancetta (about one ounce), drizzled with olive oil and crisped in an oven with olive oil at 350 (about 10 minutes)3 whole celery leavesOlive oil ttSea salt tt

Heat 2 T of olive oil over medium heat in a medium sized sauté pan. Add potatoes and caramelized. Add butter and toss to coat.Add garlic, bay leaf, thyme and toss to coat again. Add chicken stock. Bring to boil and return to simmer until potatoes are very tender. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Crust scallops on one side with shaved parmesan. Heat remaining olive oil on medium heat in a sauté pan. Sear scallops, parmesan side first, for 2 minutes on each side. Place ¼ of the potatoes on each plate. Add seared scallop and garnish with pancetta crisps, celery leaves, olive oil and sea salt.

Ceviche style with radish and lime oil4 scallops thinly sliced3 small radish-shaved thinly3 teaspoons olive oil½ bunch chives tablespoon thinly sliced chives 1 tablespoon lemon juice to seasonsea salt to taste

Lay one scallops on a chilled plate .Top with radish, olive oil, chives, lemon juice and sea salt.

Michael Mina’s Scallops Three Ways


Book Review: The Sharper Your Knife, the Less You Cry~Britny Sundin

The title words, spoken by a French Le Cordon Bleu chef to his new students, refer not to tears of sadness or pain, but tears caused by noxious onion fumes. The book, a personal account of Kathleen Flinn’s time spent at Le Cordon Bleu Paris, is full of such words of wisdom, applicable not only to the kitchen, but to life in general. The author shares her experience in rich detail, relating the funny, touching, and mortifying moments (along with Le Cordon Bleu recipes nestled at the end of each chapter) in honest and relatable terms. She infuses her cooking and kitchen experience with her own personal love story, introducing us to Mike, her boyfriend and eventual husband, with whom she shares everything, including her meals made in each class practical. For those of us experiencing a similar journey, it is fun to read and identify with her stories of good friends, great food, and spectacular kitchen fiascos. She writes with passion and humility, conveying her culinary knowledge without sounding pretentious. While the book is light and easy to read, it still leaves the reader with a profound sense of inspiration: Kathleen Flinn was 36 years old, out of a job, and decided to follow her dream to Paris- if only we all could be so courageous.

~Aneesha Bhogal

Located inside of the Mount View Hotel in Calistoga, is a contemporary American restaurant, serving small plates, with immense flavor. Owners, Matt and Sonjia Spector, create fresh and innovative twists to Mediterranean inspired dishes. Using fresh produce, in his creations, Chef Matt uses all natural and organic ingredients from local growers in the area. The dishes are designed so that diners may create their “own tasting experience” by choosing “small plates” that fit their palates and appetites. Whether it’s a large meal to fill a healthy appetite or a small bite to enjoy with a glass of wine, JoLē provides guests with what they crave.

Entrées such as the Niman Ranch Pork Belly with Braised Green Cabbage, Mustard Spaetzle, and Apple Gastrique, or the Crispy Duck Confit with Parsnip Puree, and Dried Cherries, will not only leave diner’s bellies completely satisfied, but their palates will also be pleased by such a diverse and gratifying tasting experience. Moreover, the featured entrees are always changing, partially due to seasonality, so customers can enjoy new creations by this talented chef each time they visit. Additionally, JoLē offers an extensive wine list which features many small and local producers who bottle either organic or biodynamic products. Patrons may pair wines by the glass, “pichet”, or bottle with their food selections, allowing them to tailor their dining to their personal preferences.

Dining at JoLē simply cannot end without trying some of the incredible desserts created by owner and pastry chef, Sonjia Spector. Each dessert is both unique and comforting, as Sonjia takes old classics from her childhood and adds a distinctive, yet scrumptious touch to each item offered. Sweet treats such as Spiced Sugar Pumpkin Custard, Key Lime White Chocolate Semifreddo, or Double Chocolate Decadence are rich and delectable, but not overwhelming, creating the perfect end to a delicious meal.

The atmosphere JoLē offers is just as romantic as the fare. Situated inside a historic buildin, JoLē puts a modern twist on a mission revival. The rich ivory and deep chocolate hues of this little bistro, juxtaposed with the relatively informal and gregarious mood of the restaurant, make for a warm, relaxing and pleasant experience. This is a perfect spot for a group of friends or an intimate date. The average entrée price is anywhere from $11 to $15, so diners can enjoy

a wonderful meal without spending too much money.

For more information about reservations or the cuisine offered at JoLē, please visit their website at www.JoLērestaurant.com or call (707) 942-5938.

Restaurant Review: JoLē

Chefs Matt and Sonjia Spector of JoLē


DECEMBER19: CIA Student Holiday Break Begins

20: Holiday “Cellarbration” at Provenance; $10 for wine club members; $20 for public; 1:00pm-4:00pm; 1695 St. Helena Hwy; (707) 968.3633

20 – 21: Carols In The Caves - Stag’s Leap Cellars; $65 (includes wine and hors d’oeuvres); 5pm; 5766 Silverado Trail, Napa (707) 224.4222

24: Christmas Eve Dinner at étoile Restaurant; three course menu including wine pairing; 5:00pm to 8:30pm; $95 per guest; Domaine Chandon; 1 California Drive, Yountville; (800) 736 2892; www.chandon.com/web/etoile-restaurant-and-lounge/etoile.cfm

25: Christmas

28: Food and Wine Pairing at the CIA at Greystone; 2 hour class with Chef John Ash; $95 3:30 pm - 5:30 pm (707) 967 2320

31: New Year’s Eve

31: New Year’s Eve party at The Westin Verasa; $65; 8:00pm 1141 First Street, Napa; (800) 509.8090

31: Roaring 20s New Year’s Eve Party at Domaine Chandon; live band, six course

tasting menu with paired Chandon wine; Dinner & Party Tickets: $255; Party Tickets: $75. 1 California Drive, Yountville; (888) 242.6366

31: A New Year’s Feast at FARM at the Carneros Inn; four-course prix fixe menu; $150/$225 with pairing; (888) 400.9000

JANUARY1: Celebrate 2009: Joni Dittrich; donations for Napa Food Bank; 11:00 am- 1:00 pm; free; Ubuntu; 1140 Main St Napa; 707 251 5656; www.ubuntunapa.com

5: Students return from break

16: 4th Annual Wine Market Council Research Conference; 9:00am-12:00pm; Napa $90; 650 344-1403; Wells Fargo Center for the Arts, Santa Rosa www.winemarketcouncil.com

20: Yoga and Vegetarianism by Sharon Gannon: Global and Personal Transformation, Spiritual; $75; 7:00pm-9:00pm; Ubuntu; 1140 Main St Napa; 707 251 5656

31: Naked Vine St. Helena Wine Auction; $50; 6:30 pm -9:30 pm; St Supéry Winery; 707 963 1123

31: Mustard Magic: The Grand Opening Event; $125 advance tix/ $175 at door; 7:00 pm; The Culinary Institute of America at Greystone; 707 938 1133;

www.mustardfestival.org/mustard_magic.html

FEBRUARY21: Le Grande Dîner at La Toque at the Westin Verasa Napa; seven courses presented by seven of the region’s most notable chefs and winemakers; hosted by Chef Ken Frank and Margrit Biever Mondavi; $350; 6:00 pm; mustardfestival.org/the_grand_dinner.htm;

24: directo to Consumer Symposium, Meritage Resort, Napa; freethegrapes.org; 707 254 115; [email protected]

25: 9th Annual Dinner is Served Benefit for Napa Valley Opera House League; $50-$500; 7:00 pm 707 738 3178; www.nvoh.org

MARCH7-8: Mustard, Mud & Music~ A Calistoga Jazz Festival; 1:00 pm -6:00 pm; Calistoga Chamber of Commerce; 707 942 6333; http://mustardfestival.org/mustard-music-mud.html

14-15: The Marketplace: A Signature Event for Connoisseurs; $35 advance tix/$40 at door/$10 student; 11:00am-5:00pm; Robert Mondavi Winery; www.mustardfestival.org/the_marketplace.html

21: Taste of Yountville; 11:00 am – 5:00 pm; (707) 944.0904

Upcoming Events

~Britny Sundin

Fruitcake- früt-k¯ak n (1848) 1: a rich cake containing nuts, dried or candied fruits, and spices; 2: a foolish, eccentric, or crazy person.

What is Christmas without fruitcake? This chewy, rich confection is a staple of the holidays; people have been giving, receiving, and throwing it away for generations, but what, exactly, is it? It is called a cake, but because it is chock-full of nuts and candied fruits, it resembles a candy bar. When sliced, pieces can be passed off as cookies.

In ancient times, fruitcake was made with raisins, pomegranate seeds, and pine nuts mixed together with barley mash. Later, honey, spices, and candied fruits were added. Because of fruitcake’s consistency and longevity, early warriors and hunters carried it with them on long journeys.

In the 1700s, Europeans baked ceremonial fruitcakes at the end of the nut harvest, saved them, and then ate them at the beginning of the next year’s harvest. This was done with the hope that it would bring another successful harvest.

Also, throughout Europe during this time, the consumption of fruitcake (also called plum cake) was restricted to special occasions because of its “sinfully rich” taste. Those laws were later rescinded, and fruitcake became an essential part of the Victorian tea era.

In 18th-century England, it was believed that unmarried wedding guests who put a slice of fruitcake under their pillow at night would dream of the person they were destined to marry.

The Infamous Fruitcake: Interesting Facts and A Brief History


Fancy yourself a food writer?

Come to Sage Thymes meetings-9pm Mondays, Ventura Center tables/

Computer Lab

Don’t have the time?You can still send submissions (as well

as comments, criticisms, photos, etc) to [email protected]

In Our Next Issue:

~ CIA and Napa News~Words on Wine~Restaurant Reviews~ and more....

YEASTJP KUHN

12/5/08

When the snow falls I prayI pray for a snowy day beignet

A creation of life, must be made with loveFood that was created for the gods above

the yeast, a friendly little beasthas no idea it will soon be sacrificed for the feast

Of the snowy day beignet

How I dig my snowy day beignetAll day the yeast must rise

while under watch from so many eyesPlease doughnut, don’t lead me astray

From family and friends Horray for the feast of the snowy day beignet

Have a great break!

We’ll see you next year!!!

Protein Veg Tool Wine Cheese

Michael Mina(1989)

Abalone Corn Potato ricer Burgundy Epoisses

Cat Cora(1995)

Lamb Eggplant Vita Prep Stag’s Leap Petite Sirah Black Truffle Pecorino

Nate Appleman

(1999)

Chicken Fennel Calculator “I don’t drink.” Epoissses

CIA Alum Chefs Tell the Thymes Some of Their Favorite Things...

the sage thymes

Documents

mediterranean flavor

years theme

mediterranean cooking

short years

conference attendees

food trivia

greystone sage thymes

reinventing traditions