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INDIAN SUBCONTINENT I Vol 3 No 3 I May - June 2011 I Price `200

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The salon and beauty market is at a cusp, we are moving towards the next phase when salons begin to recognize that they have to differentiate and be distinct if they want to retain the the customer. At this juncture, it might be ideal to bring to you the great knowledge of Julie Eldrett of Julie Eldrett Consulting, a lady with phenomenal knowledge on customer care practices and how salons and salon owners should prioritize for better business.

As summers beat down on us, it maybe a good time to present a few extraordinary hairstyles by Vivienne Mackinder in our International stylists section.

We proudly present the subtle, yet enigmatic styling by ace hairdresser Placid Braganza in our very own Indian stylist shoot!

Keeping in mind the value of training in the world of make-up and equally respecting the fact that artists have their own style, we try to unravel the various aspects of training in the make-up segment. Not to be missed, the insight into the tricks of make-up in the 3D big budget Hollywood fi lm Alice in Wonderland.

It’s raining 3D as we look at the tricks of more evolved coloring with Wella 3D.

Men and their vanity gets taken care of in the Men’s Grooming supplement where we capture three men, all of them achievers and aspiring for more with the help of leading hairstylists — Raman, Deepak and Dhruv!

So happy reading and with eagerness, we await your feedback!

Amitabh TanejaEditor-in-chief, Salon International, India

Editor-in-chief Amitabh Taneja Managing editor Ritoo Jhha

Deputy editor Aradhana V Bhatnagar Senior associate editor/ Nivedita Jayaram Pawar Chief of bureau (Mumbai)

Senior correspondents Jhumur Nandi Isha Gakhar

Correspondent Vasantasena Biswas (Kolkata) Senior stylist Carlton Desouza Stylist Sheeba Matta Senior layout designer Rati Mathur Senior designer Mrityunjoy Guha Senior photographer Vipin Kardam Assistant photographer Deepak Malik Photo coordinator Kamal Kumar

Publisher S P Taneja Associate Publisher Ritoo Jhha

Advisory R S Roy, Editorial Advisor Anjali Sondhi, Director Planning Sandipan Singh, COO Anil Nagar, Assoc Vice President, Circulation

Business Development (Group) Waseem Ahmad (Assoc Vice President, Mumbai) Piyali Roy Oberoi (Assoc Vice President, Kolkata)

Managers advertising Kaushik Karmakar (Kolkata) Vinita Masurkar (Mumbai) Assistant managers (advertising) NandaKumar (Chennai) Executive advertising Subrata Kumar Mohanty GM Production Manish Kadam Senior executive production Ramesh Gupta

GM Logistics Rajeev Mehandru GM Customer relations Hemant Wadhawan Senior executive Logistics Shambhu Nath

Business associates S Venkataraaman (Chennai) 9444021128 (m) Hemant Gupta (Ludhiana) 9814019745 (m)

For Subscriptions: [email protected]

Salon International, Italy: Publisher: Giuseppe Tirabasso, Editor-in-chief: Claudia Stagno Redazione, Amministrazione, Pubblicità, M.T.E. Edizioni S.r.l.-Via Romolo Gessi, 28 – 20146 Milano, www.salon-international.net

IMAGES Multimedia Pvt LtdDelhi: S 21, Okhla Industrial Area Phase II, New Delhi 110020Ph: +91 11 40525000, Fax: +91 11 40525001email: [email protected]: 1st Floor, Bharat Tin Works, Opp. Borosil Glass Works, Off. Military Road, Marol Maroshi, Andheri(E), Mumbai 400 059Ph: +91 22 42567000, 29200043/46, Fax: +91 22 42567022 Email: [email protected]: 523, 7th Cross, 10th Main, (Jeevanbhima Nagar Main Road), HAL 3rd Stage, Bangalore 560 075, Ph: +91 80 41255172/41750595/96, Fax: +91 80 41255182 Email: [email protected]: 30-B, Anil Roy Road, Ground Floor, Kolkata 700 029Ph: + 91 33 40080480, Fax: +91 33 40080440 Email: [email protected]

All material printed in this publication is the sole property of M.T.E. Edizioni, Srl or Images Multimedia Pvt. Ltd. or both and each of them have copyrights on their respective materials. All printed matter contained in the magazine is based on the information from those featured in it. The views, ideas, comments and opinions expressed are solely of those featured and the Editor and Publisher do not necessarily subscribe to the same.Printed & published by S P Taneja on behalf of Images Multimedia Pvt. Ltd. Printed at Aarvee Printers Pvt. Ltd., B-235, Naraina Industrial Area, Phase – 1, New Delhi 110028and published by S P Taneja from S- 21 Okhla Industrial Area Phase – 2, New Delhi.110020 Editor: Amitabh TanejaIn relation to any advertisements appearing in this publication, readers are recommend-ed to make appropriate enquiries before entering into any commitments. Images Multi-media Pvt. Ltd. does not vouch for any claims made by the advertisers of products and services. The Printer, Publisher and Editor-in-Chief of the publication shall not be held for any consequences in the event of such claims not being honored by the advertisers.All rights reserved. Reproduction in any manner is prohibited. All disputes are subject to the jurisdiction of competent courts and forums in Delhi/New Delhi only. Salon International does not accept responsibility for returning unsolicited manuscripts and photographs

Contributions and editorial comments: [email protected] us at www.imagesbusinessofbeauty.com

INDIAN SUBCONTINENT I Vol 3 No 3 I May-June 2011

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12 Snippets An almanac of news and updates on hair and beauty 16 New launches Beauty salons, spas and stores

20 Trends An inspiring look at global styles

25-31 International stylists The best from the Vivienne Mackinder collection

32 Technology Maria Castan regales us with information on the various aspects of 3D hair color

34 Interview Adir Abergel talks about his journey, his inspiration and the celebrities, like Anne Hathaway, who he has styled

36 Visual dynamics Check out the interior design of Snob Salon in Gurgaon

38 Style notes Summer looks styled by Najeeb Ur Rehman, Professional Partner and Service Manager, Schwarzkopf Professional

40 ln fi rst person Osh Bhabani, Creative Stylist and Director, b:blunt, Mumbai

42 Hair products New in the market

44 Special focus Six salon chain owners share their perspectives

52-62 Indian stylist A shoot with hairstylist, Placid Braganza in Mumbai

66 Beauty and fashion Backstage transformations and the vision of make-up artists at the Fashion Weeks

78 Beauty New launches, make-up techniques, skincare and more

82 Cover story Training is important for career development, especially for make-up artists and those setting up salons

96 Training Academies for training on hair and beauty 98 Events The social calendar: events from all over the country 100 Show review Salon Melbourne, Australia

104 Channel your style Katie Holmes’ red carpet style

106 Celeb styles Soha Ali Khan: an exclusive interview on hair and beauty

107 Coffee break Try this quiz and win fabulous prizes

109-113 Step-by-step Recreate these great cuts and colors with a little help

Contents

Hair: Vivienne Mackinder Founder of HairDesignerTV.com (HDTV)Photo: Roberto LigrestiMake-up: David MaderichFashion stylist: David WidjajaShot on location at a 3-day photographicworkshop in NY CityClothing: Beige silk polyester dress and belt by Jason Wu, beaded collar by Salvatore Ferragamo, gloves by La Crasia, rings by Roger Vivier and Mawi, tights by Chanel and booties by Viktor & Rolf

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MAY- JUNE 2011 I SALON INTERNATIONAL I 21

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Eight styles of Anne Hathaway at The Oscars 2011

Abhishek Bachchan’s new look in the movie Game

Oscar beautyAnne Hathaway, the co-host at The Oscars 2011, had eight hair transformations for the ceremony. Celebrity hairdresser, Adir Abergel, was the man behind Anne’s distinctive hairdos over the course of the evening. Inspired by Hollywood classic beauty Rita Hayworth, Adir wanted to create a style, which matched her ensemble as well. “It’s a combination of various elements, such as hair, clothes, etc,” says Adir. The looks had everything — from the classic Hollywood glam look, a tousled bohemian style to a high-ponytail to an updo and one-sided low bun; it was complete in every way. Was it challenging to create a variety of looks in three hours? “Though the night was amazing, it was diffi cult in the sense that I had only four minutes for some of the changes that included removing the previous dress and slipping on the new one along with the hair change,” explains Adir, who has been styling Anne’s hair since 2007.

Bollywood style!Abhishek Bachchan (AB) has always been known to experiment with his looks and hairstyles. His much-talk-ed about classic haircut in the movie Game has become a huge trendsetter. “AB has played the character of an undercover cop so we have given him this classic cut, which has added length and height to his facial features. Hence, giving a strong and edgy look to his role he is portraying in the movie,” says Shefali Shetty, b:blunt Salon, Mumbai, who is the Head Stylist for the movie. Her groundwork on the look was based on several aspects, such as clothing, mood of the fi lm and the director’s brief. “Analyzing the script and decoding its characters is the fi rst step towards creating a look for any movie. As the mood of the fi lm was very real, we designed hairstyles that were effortlessly stylish and easy-to create,” says Shefali, giving the audiences an insight into the research.

(IG)

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32 I SALON INTERNATIONAL I MAY - JUNE 2011

TECHNOLOGY

TThe hair fashion industry has always been inspiring and getting inspired by the latest technologies, and trends. The worldover, especially in fi lms, 3D is enchanting billions across the globe, whether it is the magnum opus AVATAR or the classic Alice in Wonderland. Translating these trends on hair are Wella Professionals. They have recently launched 3D hair color techniques, which have emerged through their latest collection, be it Lumina where there is a play of darker and lighter blonde or cool rose placed cleverly in the inner area of the hair and on the edges respectively, to create the 3D effect. These techniques have been designed and developed by Josh Wood, Global Creative Director, Color, Wella Professionals.For Salon India, Maria Castan, Global Scientifi c Communication Specialist for Hair Care & Color for Salon Professional brands, comments on the various aspects of 3D and Koleston Perfect, Wella’s color category and throws light on styling technologies as well.

Maria Castan, Global Scientifi c Communication Specialist for Hair and Color

The red color is delicately intertwined with the rest for an amazing 3D effect

Wella Professionals prescribes 3D Coloring

by Ritoo Jhha

What is 3D?The 3D effect takes place due to placement of colors (different shades placed along side each other and then graduated from roots to the tip) such that light refl ections create an illusion of depth. It’s the answer to the infi nite creativity of hairdressers, for example, aligning cool blonde with rose is creativity.

What is new in the technology?Our reds have the P-5 (paraxol) technol-ogy which means the molecules in our red shades are bigger than other reds allowing it to be longer lasting and fade less. We are improving this even further. We are constantly working on fragrances to cover the sharpness of ammonia. Currently, it’s a pleasant fl oral fragrance.

What about ammonia-free technologies?In hair color, reliable results come with the use of ammonia. Our priority is to create good quality color. We have data to show that ammonia-free products may not be as effective. When it comes to damaging, ammonia itself is not damaging, it’s the combination of ammonia and peroxide that’s damaging, if used incorrectly.

What is new in styling?Styling is the most diffi cult category with so many different products and forms — waxes, gels, sprays, etc. One of the latest development is in the anti-frizz category, with styling polymers and conditioning agents. Also cationic silicones help target the specifi c needs of the hair and like earlier results do not fl atten the hair. This is a result of Wella and P&G merging their technological know how. The challenge is to create styling products that last till the next hair wash and help create styles at home!

Interview.indd 32 Interview.indd 32 10/05/11 3:56 PM10/05/11 3:56 PM

Fashion weeks defi ne the trends for a season — be it hair, make-up or couture. Every season fashion pundits, hairstylists and make-up artists strive to create those signifi cant looks that are picked from the ramp and translated into ensembles by the movers and shakers. This year, beauty took centre stage at Lakmé Fashion Week Spring/Resort 2011, and revealed were the hottest of hair and make-up looks. The event held at Grand Hyatt, Mumbai from March 10 to 15, introduced six young designers as the Gen Next Designers, who crafted their creations with enthusiasm and passion. Heavy-weights and coveted designers, such as Abdul Halder, Sabyasachi Mukherjee, Satya Paul, Shantanu & Nikhil, Siddartha Tytler, Rocky S, Masaba Gupta, etc, presented their designs with élan. However, the designers who held the audi-ence captive with their dramatic presentations were Gauri & Nainika, Little Shilpa, Anand Kabra and Manish Malhotra.Bollywood stars, such as Bipasha Basu, Arjan Bajwa, Diya Mirza, Zayed Khan, Kunal Kapoor, Narmada Ahuja, Sir Vivian Richards and Neena Gupta, Padmini Kolhapure, Apoorva and Shilpa Agnihotri, Kareena Kapoor, Imtiaz Ali, Amrita Arora, Sophie Chaudhary, Minissha Lamba, Sonali Bendre, Urmila Matondkar, Geeta Basra, Aditya Roy Kapoor, were there to lend support to the designers and some also walked the ramp for them. Others were seen in the audience, smiling and waving to their fans and posing for photo opportunities. The behind-the-scenes magicians of the industry — Kapil Bhalla and Clint Fernandes — created fascinating hairstyles and designs. Salon India goes backstage and front stage and brings to you a few of the dynamic moments, contemporary styles and looks, highlights and happenings of the event.

Fashion momentsRunway reportby Isha Gakhar

Runway photos: Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2011Backstage photos: Viral Bhayani

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70 I SALON INTERNATIONAL I MAY - JUNE 2011

Beauty snapshotsBehind the scenes The Autumn/Winter edition of Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week ‘11 commenced at Pragati Maidan from April 6 to 10. It was a larger-than-life offering, with 141 Indian designers showcasing their latest collections. This season, make-up magicians Vimi Joshi and Caroline Donnelly from MAC Cosmetics, Kapil Bhalla and Ambika Pillai created hair and make-up looks backstage. Salon India spots the trends generated during the action-packed week

Glimpses: Make-up and hair by Ambika Pillai

Designer: Tarun TahilianiHair: The show had two hair looks.

Wigs were used with big hats for the fi rst look. The other had ponytails with black tassels intertwined the hair

Eyes: Nude with thick extended eyeliner. Straight eyebrows

Cheeks: ContouredLips: Enigma mouth with a black

blended lip line

Designer: Masaba GuptaHair: Ironed outEyes: Nude with thick lashes. Brushed and darkened eyebrows with a huge bindi on the foreheadCheeks: NudeLips: Coral orange

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Rabani and Rakhaam:pm by Ankur & PriyankaModi Niki MahajanNamrata Joshipura

James FerreiraSabyasachi Mukherjee RehanneShantanu & Nikhil

>> Make-up by Vimi Joshi and Caroline Donnelly; Hair by Shindesu

>> Make-up and hair by Kapil Bhalla

Runway photos: Deepak Malik; Backstage photos: Mehar Jyrwa

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90 I SALON INTERNATIONAL I MAY - JUNE 2011

Look good feel greatFace Refl exology

by Jhumur Nandi

Today’s fast paced lifestyle brings along with it plenty of stress, pollution, unhealthy food and living patterns. While there are several chemical processes and therapies in the market that promise healthy skin, but they are not completely free of side effects. Professionals in the fi eld recommend Face Refl exology, a procedure which is based on the ancient healing tech-niques that helps in keeping the skin healthy. Salon India brings you views from various skin experts on the treatment, process followed and benefi ts

Nalini Naegamwala, Beautician, Nalini of Nalini & Yasmin, MumbaiThe treatment: It is performed using fi nger tips. At fi rst, a detailed health history is obtained from the client. Then an analysis is made to assess the current health status and the treatment plan is designed according to the needs. Every session commences with the stimulation of facial acupuncture points to enervate the energetic channels throughout the body, along with the blood circulation, nerve and lymphatic supply of the face. The treatment proceeds with a series of different procedures on the face maps that represent the 12 major Chinese energy meridian. Through these maps, the brain and nervous system is stimulated and the re-balancing process is initiated.Effective for: Those who suffer from Parkinsons, menopausal discomfort, Arthritis, Migraine and the other general effects of a stressful lifestyle; and hyperactive children.Home care regime: Have green tea for a cleansing effect.

Face Refl exologyIt is based on three ancient healing traditions — facial acupuncture points and energy meridians from the Chinese and Vietnamese traditions and South American Andrean tribal body maps located on the face. Andrean body maps used to locate the stimulation points on the face that are correlated with specifi c organs or organ systems, tighten the skin and improve circulation and energy fl ow. The entire face is treated for 45 to 50 minutes.

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106 I SALON INTERNATIONAL I MAY - JUNE 2011

CELEB STYLE

The royal beauty!Soha Ali Khan

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by Isha Gakhar

What do you like the most about your hair?Its length and volume.

Has your hair always been long? Yes, I have always admired long hair. However, in my forthcoming movie The Accident, I’m sporting a short hairstyle, where they come exactly till my jawbone. A wig has been used as I’m scared to cut my hair.

Secret of keeping it looking this good.My monthly protein hair treatments!

Your worst hair day.Defi nitely the day after I get my hair colored for a particular look! It affects my hair to such a great extent that I honestly, don’t even feel like stepping out. I simply tie them up in a high ponytail or use a bandana or scarf.

What’s your idea of relaxation?I fi rst tie up my hair, enjoy a delicious meal and end my day with a good body massage. Once these three are clubbed together, I’m at peace.

How important is a healthy diet for beautiful hair?A well-balanced diet is of absolute importance for everyone. Along with a good diet, one should protect the hair from the harsh rays of the sun and avoid blow drying and excess use of chemicals. Recommended is the use of leave-in conditioners and monthly protein treatments.

Favorite and regular hairstylist?Bharti Chauhan has been my hairdresser for the past fi ve years. Though for haircut and color, I visit Aalim Hakim also. In fact, he is the one who introduced me to hair color. He understands what I want exactly.

Do you color your hair often?I am not much into hair color-ing. Recently my hair was colored red for my upcom-ing movies — Chemistry and Soundtrack. It looks great, but my hair had to undergo a lot of harsh chemical treatments.

Do you think hair extensions affect the hair?These days, we get wonderful

extensions, which give length and body to the hair, only if one knows how to use them. They are a quick, time-saving option.

In which movie have you had the most interesting hairstyle? Who was the hairstylist?In Khoya Khoya Chand, I was seen with a variety of hairdos, such as bouffants, chotis, etc. There was an extensive play of make-up and hair, and fashion in that movie. Again, Bharti Chauhan had designed my hair look.

An evening look you like? I am not that experimental. I keep it simple with accentu-ated eyes, having a little bit of kohl, mascara and a lip liner. When it comes to hair, I don’t like them poker straight. A little messy and undone look with a soft fringe works for me. Generally, tying my hair half up and opening the rest gives me a feminine touch.

A look you really admire?Sharmila Tagore and Audrey Hepburn. They are the style icons for me.

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