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THE SCIENCE OF DRAWINGGIULIA PETTOELLO

DOCENTE: GIULIA PETTOELLO ANNO 2018/2019Lesson N. XI (30‐05‐19)

LESSON XIMOODBOARD PLANAR DRAWING AND EXAM’S MATERIAL

FACOLTA’ DI LETTERE E FILOSOFIA‐CORSO INTERNAZIONALE FASHION STUDIES LM‐65

DOCENTE: GIULIA PETTOELLO ANNO 2018/2019

LINEA, STILE E VOLUME

LINEA: SILHOUETTE DELL’ABITOSTILE: CIO’ CHE CARATTERIZZA L’ABITO E LO CLASSIFICA IN UN SETTORE SPECIFICOVOLUME: DIMENSIONE IN AMPIEZZA DELL’ABITO

LINEA E VOLUME: GEOMETRIA DI BASE DELL’ABITO

MOODBOARD

Moodboard: Composition of images, drawings, writings, newspaper and magazine clippings and physical objects, which represent a mood, an atmosphere, a feeling.

‐represents an atmosphere‐explore a number of alternatives‐is a reference during the design process in many abstract disciplines

IMPORTANT: THE CHOISE OF THE TOPIC and THE SYNTHESIS

It is used by designers to visually display a project and a CONCEPT and develop ideas not yet defined.


Possibility to work about detailed elements and textures


Possibility to consider TOPIS not directly linked to fashion: ARCHITECTURE


ARTISTS or PAINTERS



“FASHION MODEL” AND “PLANAR DESIGN” ARE NOT INTERCHANGEABLE BETWEEN THEM, BUT THEY ARE COMPLEMENTARY.

EACH OF THEM NEEDS DIFFERENT SPECIFIC PURPOSES AND REGARDS DIFFERENT CLIENTS.

THE FASHION MODEL, MORE "ARTISTIC" AND PERSONAL, SHOWS THE MOOD OF THE SPIRIT OF THE COLLECTION, AND EXPRESSES THE PERSONALITY OF THE STYLIST.

THE “FASHION MODEL” MUST FIRST DEVELOP, AND THEN SELL AN IDEA.

THE PLANAR DESIGN IS A TECHNICAL AND STRICT DESIGN. MUST BE HONEST AND TECHNICAL.

FASHION MODEL” “PLANAR DESIGN”

FROM SKETCH to FASHION MODEL to PLANAR DRAWING (technical)

PLANAR DRAWING (technical representation)

THE PLANAR DRAWING

THE PLANAR DRAWING CAN BE VERY USEFUL TO THE STYLIST DURING THE DESIGN, WHEN EACH DETAIL UST BE STUDIED IN DEEP.

AND BECOMES A FUNDAMENTAL INSTRUMENT WHEN THE DRESS MUST BE REALIZED. SO WHEN THE LABORATORY PROCESS STARTS.

THE PLANAR DRAWING MUST BE EASILY READABLE AND SPEAK A CLEAR AND UNEQUIVOCABLE LANGUAGE TO ANOTHER PERSON, WHICH MUST THEREFORE BE ABLE TO READ THE DESIGN AND MAKE THE MODEL WITH THE MAXIMUM FIDELITY.

THE PLANAR DRAWING IS THEREFORE A FUNDAMENTAL INTERMEDIATE PASSAGE BETWEEN THE “BOZZETTO” (sketch) AND THE FINISHED DRESS


PLANAR DRAWING: PRINCIPAL FEATURES

TECHNICAL DRAWING OF THE SINGLE DRESS THAT HAS BEEN REALIZED, COMPARED TO THE “FASHION DRAWING” MUST BE MORE ACCURATE, STRICT IN DETAILS AND LESS GRAPHICLY CUSTOMIZED.THE DRESS MUST BE REPRESENTED AS IF IT IS PLACED ON A FLAT SURFACE (FOR EXAMPLE THE FLOOR).AS IT IS PUT ON THE FLOOR, THE DRESS MUST NOT GIVE THE IMPRESSION OF CONTAINING A BODY INSIDE.


PLANAR DRAWING AND FOLDS

IN THE PLANAR DRAWING THE FOLDS OFMOVEMENT AND THE FOLDS DUE TO THE BODYPRESENCEMUST NOT BE REPRESENTED.

THE LONELY FOLDS THAT MUST BE DESIGNED ARETHOSE PREVIOUSLY PROJECTED, WHICH ARENORMALLY VISIBLE EVEN ON A FLAT SURFACE(PLISSE ', VOLANT, DEPRESSIONS, BELTS THATTIGHTEN THE DRESS OR OTHER).

THE DETAILS IN THE PLANAR DRAWING

THE PLANAR DRAWING ALWAYS NEEDS A PROPORTIONED BASE (GENERIC MODEL) ON WHICH TO DESIGN.



COLLARS


COATS


SHIRTS


SKIRT FEMALE DRESSES


CUFF

POKET


MAIL DRESS


CUFF

DRESSES VOCABULARY

POKET

PINCE

DOPPIO,……(select 4 of the previous images)

VERTICAL PAGE (N1) VERTICAL PAGE (N2)

COLLARS

SHIRTS

DRESSES VOCABULARY

EXTEMPORE


COATS

SKIRT

VERTICAL PAGE (N3) VERTICAL PAGE (N4)

FEMALE DRESSES

MALE DRESSES

EXTEMPORE

EXAM

PRACTICAL PART

1. NOTEBOOK (FIRST AND SECOND SEMESTER)

2. LAYOUTS

3.PENNETTA oppure CD/DVD

THEORETICAL PART

The theory is about the lessons held in the classroom and in particular:EACH STUDENT SHOULD BE ABLE TO PLAN THE ITEMS FROM THE NOTEBOOKORALLY, explaining how to make them (in the case of exercises) and thetheoretical summary about the AUTHORS STUDIED (eg Gustafson, Givenchy,etc.).

NOTEBOOK

‐IT HAS TO CONTAIN ALL THE EXERCISES DEVELOPED IN CLASSROOM AND AT HOME

‐IT HAS TO CONTAIN THE SYNTHESIS OF THE THEORETICAL PART(1 or 2 pages; write and drawnnotes)

‐IT HAS TO CONTAIN THE COLOR FOTOCOPY OF THE 6 LAYOUTS

SHEETS FABRIANO TYPE F4 OR SIMILAR, FORMAT A3 (29.7x42)

HORIZONTAL ORIENTATION

YOU CAN CHOOSE THE TYPOLOGY OF PAPER (must be suitable for wathercolor or pantone markers)

BUT NOT ALREADY “SQUARED” (= so it must be all white)

ALL THE TABLES MUST HAVE A “GENERAL COMMON CAPTION” CONTAINING UNIVERSITY, DEGREE COURSE, COURSE, PROFESSOR AND STUDENT, SERIAL YEAR, ACADEMIC YEAR, TABLE TITLE AND PROGRESSIVE NUMBER, HAND MADE

EXAM LAYOUTS

PHOTOS OF THE SKETCHBOOK AND OF THE 6 LAYOUTS

IN ORDER TO BE ALBLE TO DO THE EXAM THE STUDENT SHOUD BRING A PEN DRIVE OR CD THAT CONTAINS:‐ Pictures (with a good illumination) of 10 exercises done during the second

semester. You are free to choose which to select.‐ Pictures of the layout of the exam

N.B. It is possible to use a same pen drive/CD for 10/20 students.In the pen drive each student has to create a folder with name surname.

LAYOUT EXAMPLE

LAYOUT 1TITLE

SAPIENZA UNIVERSITY OF ROME ‐MASTER FASHION STUDIES LM‐65COURSE: THE SCIENCE OF DRAWING II PROFESSOR: Giulia Pettoello

STUDENT: ……….MATRICOLA: ………..

CHOICE OF A THEME EXPOSED IN A CLEAR WAY(ALSO NOT DIRECTLY INSPIRED IN THE FASHION)

CREATE THE PALETTE OF COLORS (or collage or COLORED Acquarello or pantone)

YOU CAN ALSO DECIDE TO GET STARTED FROM AN IMAGE INSTEAD OF AN IDEA

DON'T UNDERESTIMATE THE IMPORTANCE OF THIS MOODBOARD: ALL THE OTHER TABLES COME FROM THIS, IF THE MOODBOARD IS WEAK THE OTHER TABLES WILL ALSO BE.DO NOT STOP AT THE FIRST MATERIALS YOU FIND: MAKE RESEARCH, TEST SOLUTIONS AND ORIGINAL COMPOSITIONS.

LAYOUT 1

MOODBOARD

LAYOUT 2

IDEATION

REPRESENTING YOUR COLLECTION THROUGH STUDY SKETCHES, CAN CONTAIN A MINIMUM OF 2 TO A MAXIMUM OF 4 FIGURINI (ALSO IN DIFFERENT STAIRS)

YOU MUST DESCRIBE AND "SELL" YOUR COLLECTION AND THE CHOICE YOU HAVE MADE TO THE CUSTOMER.

THE DRAWING MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A TITLE THAT MUST REPLACE THE MOOD AND THE STYLE OF THE COLLECTION, EVEN THE TITLE IS PART OF THE GRAPHIC COMPOSITION.

DESCRIPTION OF THE TABLE 2: IDEATION

Black and white sketch (graphic summary of the CONCEPT)

IMPORTANT: THE CONCEPT IS CLEAR.

THE CHOICE OF REPRESENTATION IS FREE. IN THE NEXT SLIDE A TABLE IS REPORTED AS AN EXAMPLE

FREE HAND DRAWING

TECHnique PEN

BLACK AND WHITEREMEMBER THAT THE FOCUS IS NOT ONLY ON THE DRESS (FOR THAT THERE ARE SUCCESSIVE LYOUTS) BUT ALSO ON THE FEELINGS YOU WANT TO COMMUNICATE AND THE THEME OF YOUR COLLECTION!

DETAIL(EX.ZOOM TEXTURE)

ELEMENTS THAT CHARACTERIZE THE CONCEPT

FASHION DRAWINGOF THE COLLECTON

DESCRIPTION OFONE OF THE DRESSESOF THE COLLECTION

LAYOUT 3 FEMALE FASHION DRAWINGS

3 FEMALE FASHION DRAWINGS INSPIRED BY THE LAYOUT 1 MOODBOARD (DAY DRESS, EVENING and FOCAL DRESS)

USE THREE DIFFERENT POSES (even little movements)

PAY ATTENTION TO ANATOMY AND PROPORTIONS (9 MODULES)

FREE COLOR TECHNIQUE (preferably pantone or watercolor) + PEN TREATMENT FOR SILHOUETTE.

PAY ATTENTION TO THE TYPE OF PAPER YOU USE ON THE BASIS OF THE TECHNIQUE YOU CHOOSE

N.B. THE FASHION MUST BE SYNTHETIC (stylized but precise face and arms and legs: example see images below)NB ATTENTION TO USING THE COLOR: warm colors, cool colors, complementary colors, similar colors (adjacent colors on the color wheel). Avoid using too many colors.N.B. The focal dress is the dress that best expresses the CONCEPT. It is the most imaginative and less conventional dress but still "adherent" to reality and realizable.

TWO EXAMPLE OF THE LAYOUT 3 (synthetical fashion drawings)

LAYOUT 4 FASHION DRAWING: MAN

3 MASCULINE FASHION DRAWINGS INSPIRED BY THE LAYOUT 1 MOODBOARD (DAY DRESS, EVENING and FOCAL DRESS)

USE THREE DIFFERENT POSES (even little movements)

PAY ATTENTION TO ANATOMY AND PROPORTIONS (9 MODULES)

FREE COLOR TECHNIQUE (preferably pantone or watercolor) + PEN TREATMENT FOR SILHOUETTE.

PAY ATTENTION TO THE TYPE OF PAPER YOU USE ON THE BASIS OF THE TECHNIQUE YOU CHOOSE

N.B. THE FASHION MUST BE SYNTHETIC (stylized but precise face and arms and legs: example see images below)NB ATTENTION TO USING THE COLOR: warm colors, cool colors, complementary colors, similar colors (adjacent colors on the color wheel). Avoid using too many colors.N.B. The focal dress is the dress that best expresses the CONCEPT. It is the most imaginative and less conventional dress but still "adherent" to reality and realizable.

LAYOUT 5

PLANAR DRAWING AND ACCESSORIES: WOMAN

TECHNIQUE USED: PILOT PEN

SEAMS ARE VERY IMPORTANT

CHOOSE TWO OF THE THREE FEMALE FIGURINS AND REALIZE THE FLAT DRAWINGS OF EVERY SINGLE PART OF DRESS OF THE FIGURINE.

REPRESENT AT LEAST TWO DETAILS(Ex. Jacket and collar closure)

REPRESENT AT LEAST TWO ACCESSORIES OF YOUR CHOICE (front and side view) ES. Bag and shoe.

LAYOUT 6

PLANAR DRAWING AND ACCESSORIES: MAN

TECHNIQUE USED: PILOT PEN

SEAMS ARE VERY IMPORTANT

CHOOSE TWO OF THE THREE FEMALE FIGURINS AND REALIZE THE FLAT DRAWINGS OF EVERY SINGLE PART OF DRESS OF THE FIGURINE.

REPRESENT AT LEAST TWO DETAILS(Ex. Jacket and collar closure)

REPRESENT AT LEAST TWO ACCESSORIES OF YOUR CHOICE (front and side view) ES. Bag and shoe.

EXERCISEREALIZE IN ORIZONTAL YOUR PERSONAL IDEATION LAYOUT ABOUTTHE PERSONAL COLLECTION OF NATURALISTIC CONCEPT

PILOT PEN

EXAMPLE

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