the sustainable style pages
DESCRIPTION
Shopping and fashion are wearing out the world, but by making a few simple changes to the way you live; you can make a big difference to the planet and our future!TRANSCRIPT
The Sustainable Style Pages…
Contents
• Upcycle Now!
• Kicking the Habit - How to curb those bargain buy binges!!
• My Sustainable Shopping Hot Picks
• Clean Green - How Eco Laundry Starts at Home
• Spring Time Swap Party - With Stitched Up sustainable fashion
• Make it Yourself! - Upcycled T Shirt Shrug
• Fashion Shoot: Shop Local! Spotlight on Local Fashion
For more information on any of the topics covered in this guide, please go to www.saralichouhan.com or
contact [email protected]
07964 072 879
Many thanks and happy reading!
Sara
Xxx
Vintage fashion from Retro Rehab
The Sustainable Style Pages…
Shopping and fashion are wearing out the world, but by making a few simple changes to the way
you live; you can make a big difference to the planet and our future!
Upcycle Now!
Recycling is a process that breaks down
products into their constituent parts, at the
end of their useful life. These components
parts are often of a lesser value, and require
energy intensive processes in order to
remanufacture them into useful new products.
• www.saralichouhan.com
In contrast to this upcycling is a process that
takes these old products and transforms then,
through clever design and skilled
craftsmanship, into useful, like new products,
with a higher value. Often the products
directly reference their original form and
make use of these features as witty, post
modern design features, adding to the
desirability of the finished article.
The benefits of this are the reduction in the
use of virgin resources and also a reduction
in the amount of energy needed in order to
reprocess the end of life products through
traditional recycling methods.
• www.saralichouhan.com
Around 2.15 million tones of clothing and
textiles are purchased in the UK each year,
about one eighth of which is re-used through
charities and the rest is discarded, often
ending up in landfill. Upcycling could offer an
alternative to this, diverting end of life
garments and textiles away from landfill and
other waste streams by turning them into
beautiful fashion products.
Kicking the Habit…
How to curb those bargain buy binges!!
One year ago I made a resolution. No More
₤5 Bargains. Quite a turnaround for an avid
Primani like myself, but rather than a decision
towards fashion extravagance, this was a
considered choice to save money, reduce my
carbon footprint and to shop more ethically.
Market research shows that attitudes are
changing (Mintel), and that in the current
economic recession, buying cheap clothes
that only last a few washes makes absolutely
no sense!
In recent years deflation has meant that
clothes have been getting cheaper and
cheaper. I’ll be honest; I was just as
overjoyed as the next person when Primark
opened in Liverpool several years ago.
Dresses for a fiver! Jewellery for two quid! I
thought, ‘You can’t go wrong, and even if you
do, it was only a couple of quid.’ I even
bought clothes from the dreaded sale rail – a
nice black sweater with seams that came
apart after one wear. Great. But after
watching programmes such as BBC 3’s Blood
Sweat and T Shirts, I started seriously
questioning the ethics of all those throw away
bargains I’d picked up round town. Garments
so cheap the workers making them must
have been paid next to nothing and possibly
have to sleep under their machines and carry
on working as soon as they woke up. Not an
unusual situation for some of the lowest cost
clothing manufacturers.
• Garment workers in Bangladesh
Market research insiders Mintel assert that
working women (who are steadily rising in
number) will be looking for investment buys
from ethically sourced retailers and high
fashion tailoring, as a shift away from trend
focused, throw away fashion leads the way
forward. Women who work want clothes they
can wear now, and also in five years time.
We are starting to see a move towards more
classic fashion styles, more tailoring and dare
I say it, vintage styling. After all, what better
way to recycle than to wear vintage or second
hand? This ensures you are buying from a
local independent source, no one else will
have one the same and that it wasn’t made in
a sweat shop on the other side of the world
last month. And if you’re getting clothes from
a charity shop, then I don’t think the benefits
need to spelled out for you there!
Overall, the current economic climate should
be telling us that bargain basement fashion
has reached saturation point. No more ₤5
bargains please! Just think, if on average, like
me you bought one cheap item of clothing per
week, and if, instead of buying it you were to
save ₤5 each week, by the end of the year
you would have ₤260. Now all those ₤5
bargains would have lasted about a month
but if you spent the money you saved on
some well made, classic styles from a
premium fashion brand, not only would you
feel better about your choices but you would
have beautiful clothes that will last you a
lifetime.
•Jumping for joy - sustainable shopping has never been easier!
But what did you do about your serious
shopping addiction I hear you ask? Well, I’ve
hit the vintage and charity shops of
Manchester, having recently picked up a
gorgeous pair of original Texan made cowboy
boots (₤35) and a beautifully printed Orion
top (₤7) from Oxfam Originals on Oldham
Street. But then there’s always the option of
buying handmade. Check out some of the
amazing designer makers in the Manchester
Craft and Design Centre. Jewellery designers
such as BLAC design and make all their
unique jewellery right here in Manchester,
ensuring a low carbon footprint.
• Upcycled jewellery by Alice Eleanor
It’s time to wave good bye to the bargain buy
blues and start embracing quirky local,
handmade wares and saving up for those
beautiful investment pieces that will last you a
lifetime!
My Sustainable Shopping Hot Picks:
Upcycled and Recycled Clothing
Love Me Again
http://www.lovemeagain.co.uk/
• Upcycled designs by Love Me Again
Alice Eleanor
http://www.etsy.com/shop/AliceEleanor
Goodone’s range at Tesco
http://www.clothingattesco.com/brands-/-
goodone/icat/goodones/
Sustainable Sourced
People Tree http://www.peopletree.co.uk/
Rapanui http://www.rapanuiclothing.com
Edun http://www.edun.com/
Vintage
Retro Rehab
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Retro-
Rehab/446652315110?sk=info
Pop Boutique http://www.pop-boutique.com/
Second Hand
Oxfam - 8 - 10 Oldham Street -
http://www.oxfam.org.uk/
Barnardos - 45 Deansgate -
http://www.barnardos.org.uk/
Locally Made
Manchester Craft and Design Centre
http://www.craftanddesign.com/
Bland Clothing
http://blandclothing.tumblr.com/
Constanze Friedrichs
http://www.constanzefriedrichs.co.uk/
Silvia Hoya Mena
http://www.mysewingbox.com/
Purl Puir http://www.purlpuri.blogspot.com/
BLAC
http://www.craftanddesign.com/studios/blac
Clean Green: How Eco Laundry Starts at Home
If you were to consider all the energy that
goes into the lifecycle of a piece of clothing;
weaving, knitting, sewing, making, dyeing,
transporting, selling, packaging, washing,
drying, wearing and disposing of it, would you
believe the most energy intensive part of the
whole process is the washing and drying in
our own homes?
This means that as consumers we have the
power to vastly reduce the environmental
impact of the fashion industry, just by making
a few small changes in our own homes. It is
that simple.
Of a garments energy consuming lifecycle,
roughly 80% is spent on consumer use. This
is washing (about 30%), drying (another 38%
for cotton garments and 27% for polyester),
ironing (about 12%) and the detergent (6 to
7%), water (2 to 3%) and transport of you
excitedly getting your new purchase back
from the shops (about another 3%).
[ERMUK.com]
Of course, I’m not suggesting that you stop
washing your clothes, but there are some
small changes you can make at home, that
will make a big difference to the planet.
Top tips for an eco laundry:
1. Ban the tumble dryer & line dry only.
2. Wash a full load at 30%, no half loads!
3. Use eco detergents and softeners
such as Ecover.
4. Try alternatives such as Eco Balls or
soap nuts.
5. Wash less, air your clothes and
change when you get home.
6. Try not to make dry cleaning a regular
habit, and try green alternatives or
hand washing.
First of all, stop tumble drying!! It’s the most
energy intensive and wasteful part of your
clothing care cycle. Line dry and hang your
clothes on hangers to let them dry naturally.
Invest in some space saving washing
maidens if you live in a flat, or if you live in a
house with a garden, then even better!! Rig
up an old fashioned washing line, complete
with wooden pegs and lovely laundry
baskets. If you are hanging your clothes
outside then they will dry within a day,
weather permitting of course!! And they will
smell fresh and clean, with no danger of
shrinking, wrinkling or static clinginess from
the dryer.
The second step to a greener laundry is to
reduce the temperature of your wash. A move
from washing at 50oC to 40oC will reduce
lifecycle energy burden by 10%. And even
better washing at 30oC will reduce energy
consumption even more, and mean you have
lower electricity bills, saving the planet and
saving you money! Washing a full load is also
more efficient that washing single items or
smaller loads, as and when you need things.
Your washing machine may also have an
‘eco’ setting that uses less water than a
normal cycle, so utilise this whenever
possible.
Using an eco detergent such as Ecover will
ensure the waste water doesn’t contain any
nasty contaminants that can’t be broken
down into safe substances to enter the eco
system. I bought mine from
www.ethicalsuperstore.com. There are also
different eco alternatives you can buy to
replace the detergent you use in the wash,
such as Eco wash balls and soap nuts. These
products work with the water in your wash to
help lift the dirt of your clothes.
Using a biodegradable and eco friendly fabric
conditioner, and hanging your clothes out to
dry in the shape you want to wear them will
also mean don’t need to iron them, another
big energy consumer!
Also consider if your clothes need to be
washed as often as you currently do. Often a
pair of jeans can have the odd stain or spot
removed with a sponge and a little detergent.
Or if you have only work a top for a few hours
or less, and you use a nice eco deodorant,
then try turning it inside out and hanging it by
an open window or outside for a few hours.
Not only does this mean you don’t have to
wash your clothes as often, saving energy,
the environment and your own money, it also
means that your clothes will remain bright
and new for longer, lasting longer in your
wardrobe before you want to give them away
or recycle them.
It’s a good idea to sort your clothes out into
‘best’ and ‘home’ clothes. This means you
can get changed out of your ‘best’ clothes as
soon as you get home, air these clothes next
to an open window, hang them up and put
them back in the wardrobe. Change into your
‘home’ clothes for lounging around, cooking,
cleaning and sleeping and it means your
‘best’ clothe stay good for longer.
As a final word I should also mention dry
cleaning.
http://www.treehugger.com says the
following:-
‘Contrary to what its name implies, dry
cleaning involves washing clothes in a liquid
solvent to remove stains. In about 85 percent
of dry cleaning shops this solvent is
perchloroethylene (or “perc”), a chemical that
the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA)
considers both a health and environmental
hazard.
Dry cleaning is not always necessary;
clothing makers often place the “dry clean
only” label on tags because they can list no
more than one cleaning method and can be
held liable if an item is damaged when the
owner follows the listed procedure. Yet many
of these items can be safely washed at home,
either by hand or using a washing machine’s
delicate cycle. For clothes that must be
professionally cleaned due to their size,
fabric, decorations, or other factors, there is
no perfect solution, but you could consider
using a cleaner that offers one of the
following perc-free methods.
The EPA has a PDF list of drycleaners that
use two alternative methods – wet cleaning
and CO2 cleaning.
www.epa.gov/dfe/pubs/garment/gcrg/cleangui
de.pdf
Wet cleaning uses water, along with
computer-controlled washers and dryers,
specialized detergents that are milder than
home laundry products, and professional
pressing and finishing equipment. The EPA
considers it one of the safest professional
cleaning methods; its benefits include “no
hazardous chemical use, no hazardous waste
generation, no air pollution and reduced
potential for water and soil contamination.”
Carbon dioxide (CO2) cleaning uses non-
toxic, liquid CO2—the same form used to
carbonate soda—as the cleaning solvent,
along with detergent. The CO2 is captured as
a by-product of existing industrial processes,
thereby utilizing emissions that would
otherwise be released into the atmosphere;
since only about two percent of the CO2 is
lost into the air with each load of clothing, its
impact on global warming is minimal. CO2
cleaning also uses less energy than
traditional dry cleaning, which involves
heating the solvent.
Not all cleaning methods advertised as
“green” are as environmentally benign as
they may seem. For example, a solvent
called DF-2000 being touted as an “organic”
dry cleaning fluid is actually a petroleum
product. It is indeed organic in the same way
gasoline and perc are organic: it contains a
chain of carbon atoms. The word “organic”
has a much different meaning when it comes
to food that’s been certified organic by the
USDA.’
Personally, I have found that for small ‘dry
clean only’ items, placing them inside a pillow
case, tying the top, and washing them in the
machine on cool wool cycle with the rest of
your delicate items, has been fine. Of course
this would be a somewhat cavalier approach
for your more treasured items, such as your
favourite silk party dress, wedding dress or
bridesmaid outfit, and I am in no way
suggesting that you do wash them in the
machine. But its fine for the odd item found at
a clothes swap or charity shop, that you
would have otherwise not picked up, due to
the dry cleaning or hand wash only aspect.
Links
http://www.ethicalsuperstore.com
http://www.ecover.com
http://www.ecotopia.co.uk
http://www.naturalcollection.com
http://www.ecogreenstore.co.uk
Spring Time Swap Party!
With Stitched Up sustainable fashion
It’s time to spring clean those wardrobes and
brighten up your look, all for next to nothing
this season. Swish your way to a fab new
look with Stitched Up’s spring time swap
party!
We invite you to bring down all those old
clothes hiding at the back of your wardrobe.
Just because you don’t love it anymore,
doesn’t mean that somebody else won’t. If it
doesn’t fit you, it doesn’t mean it’s not the
perfect choice for someone else. And who
knows what hidden gems, fabulous finds and
perfect pieces are waiting for you at the
clothes swap!
It’s a fabulously sustainable way to get some
great new clothes, and everything not
claimed in the swap will be donated to charity
or recycled into fantastic new items.
Some come on down to The Black Lion for
some fantastic fun and clothes swap action!!
Tasty treats, hot meals and delicious drinks
are available from the café throughout the
swap.
Info:
Saturday 11th March @ The Black Lion
http://stitchedupuk.blogspot.com/ for further
info on times, dates, prices and workshops.
Make it Yourself! Read books like To Die For by Lucy Siegle,
about how fashion is wearing out the world,
or Green is the New Black by Tamsin Blanchard, full of tips on how to live and
shop sustainably. Naked Fashion by People Tree founder Safia Minney, is a great book,
full of easy to understand facts and figures
about what we are doing to the planet, and
profiles on designers who are changing the
way the industry works. Junky Styling, the
book, by Annika Sanders and Kerry Seager tells a great story about how they grew their
brand, and also shows you how to make
some of the fabulous upcycled creations for
yourself.
There’s no better way to stop those bargain
buy binges than making something for
yourself. Knit yourself a new beanie hat,
make a recycled shrug or stitch an old skirt
into a new party dress.
And get making! To get you started, here is
my guide on making a upcycled shrug from
old t-shirts. The only pattern cutting required
uses a piece of A4 paper; it can even be a
used one!!
You’ll feel an enormous sense of
achievement, and realization about how
much skill, time, effort and hard work it takes
to just make on single piece of clothing.
Get in touch with local groups like Stitched
Up (http://stitchedupuk.blogspot.com) or
Stitchcraft Manchester
(http://www.stitchcraftmanchester.co.uk/) to
learn the skills you need to get sewing and
crafting.
Upcycled T Shirt Shrug
You will need:
• (Small/ medium shrug) – 4 to 5 large mens t-shirts or 8 to 10 ladies jersey tops • (Medium/large shrug) – 6 to 7 large mens t-shirts or 11 or 12 ladies jersey tops • 2 pieces of A4 paper • Fabric scissors • Pins • Ruler • Pen to mark fabric • Sewing machine or overlocker • Iron and ironing board
1. Using the A4 piece of paper as a pattern piece, lay the paper on your first t-shirt or top, lining up the edges with the lines of knitted/woven fabric (the straight of grain). If you are using large mens t-shirts you should be able to get 2 pairs of A4 pieces out of 1 t-shirt.
2. Pin the paper on through both the front and back layers of the t-shirt or top and cut through both layers, around the outline of the paper.
3. Repeat this process between 4 to 12 more times, depending on what size shrug you want and whether you are using tops or t-shirts.
4. Continue cutting co-ordinating or contrasting A4 pieces of fabric, through the front and back of each t-shirt or top.
5. You should end up with between 8 and 12 pairs (front and back pieces) of A4 fabric pieces.
6. Lay out all the individual pieces of fabric out lengthways in a grid, either 4 x 4, 4 x 5 or 4 x 6, with their right sides facing upwards.
7. Take the first two pieces and lay them right sides together, so the wrong sides show on the outside.
8. Sew or overlock the pieces together along one side, on a short edge.
9. Lay the pieces flat, with their right sides facing up.
10. Take the next two pieces and sew them together in the same way, with their right sides together, wrong sides facing outwards and sewn down a short edge, then lay the pieces flat on the table, with their right sides facing up.
11. Lay the two joined pieces together, right sides together (facing inwards), wrong sides, with the seams showing, facing outwards.
12. You should now have joined 4 pieces together in a strip. Lay this strip out next to the other pieces, right side facing upwards.
13. Repeat steps 7 to 12 for each of the rows. You will then have between 4 to 6 rows. Lay the strips out right sides up, next to each other.
14. Take the first two strips and place them carefully on top of each other, with their right sides together, on the inside. Make sure the ends of each strip line up neatly with each other.
15. Pin the side of the strips that are to be sewn together, and sew or overlock along this edge, removing the pins as you sew.
16. Repeat steps 14 and 15 for the other strips.
17. Lay both pieces right sides together, making sure to neatly line up each end.
18. Carefully pin the pieces together at regular intervals.
19. Sew the pieces together into one large piece and lay this flat on the table, right side up.
20. Iron the seams flat.
21. Carefully fold the entire piece in half lengthways, so the right side is to the inside. Cut away any loose threads.
22. Measure 20cm from the folded edge and mark with a pin.
23. Do the same on the other side, measuring 20cm from the folded edge. These openings will form the arm holes of your shrug.
24. Sew or overlock up to the pin marking the arm holes. You can also sew the left over T-Shirt
sleeves into the armholes to add additional length to the sleeves.
FINISHED!!
Shop Local! Spotlight on Local Fashion…
Buying local is one of the best ways to reduce the
air miles of your wardrobe and reduce the carbon
footprint of your own personal fashion endeavors.
This means looking out for local designer/makers,
brands who source their fabrics locally and
ethically, and produce the garments right there in
your home town or nearby.
I’ve put together a show case of local Northwest
designers in this shoot. I worked with local
Manchester photographer Willie Runte and
Manchester based hair and make-up artist
Rebecca Hodgkinson to produce this piece,
inspired by broken dolls at the bottom of the toy
box, and surrealist Pierrot clowns.
I’ll be looking at some local designers from the
North West, notably Liverpool’s Susan Comer.
Sue’s unique wearable art pieces, made from
deconstructed vintage garments, which have
been sculpted and draped around the body to
create dramatic and sensuous accessories that
tell a story of their past lives and future destiny.
Each piece is lovingly embellished with vintage
gems and curios, creating structured three
dimensional recycled creations to adorn any
outfit.
Also featured is the work of Jeni Murphy, of
Liverpool label No Machine Could Hope. Jeni
produces uniquely designed, bespoke pieces.
The classic designs are both quirky and flattering
to the female form, able to weather the most
outrageous trends and remain wardrobe staples
for years to come. Investing in a piece by Jeni is
an investment in beautifully crafted style that
bucks the trend for fast fashion.
Also based in Liverpool is Shameless Originals by
Deborah Payne. Offering bespoke fashion design
and dressmaking services that can create the
perfect outfit for any occasion, Deborah works
closely with all of her clients, from initial design
consultation, through to sourcing fabrics and
trims, to personal fittings, to ensure her creations
are perfect in both fit and style. Daisy Chains
jewellery, also based in Liverpool, create cute
beaded jewellery for all occasions.
And last but not least is a piece from my own
Trashed Couture collection. The purple stripy
tunic featured was made from a deconstructed
vintage all in one jumpsuit and matching blazer. It
has been styled with a gorgeous sequin top I
picked up in a charity shop in West Kirby, on the
Wirral.
My Trashed Couture collection is an eco fashion
collection, specialising in recycled denim pieces,
uniquely designed with couture inspired styling.
Reworked vintage and custom made, individual
pieces, uniquely designed for each client are also
a specialty. Second hand garments are sourced
from vintage markets and local charity shops, and
the designs are all created in Manchester by me!
Antique Lace Collar (POA) by Susan Comer
Pebble Dress £180 and Cream Feather and Flower Fascinator £45 by Shameless Originals
Pearl Bracelets £15 each by Daisy Chains
Brown Suede Thigh Boots £100 by Topshop
Red PVC Dress (POA) by No Machine Could Hope
Black Satin Rabbit Ears £12.50 and Black Stud Bracelets £12 each by Topshop
Red Rose Ring £3 New Look
Red Christian Louboutin Heels – Model's own\
Reworked Vintage Shoulder Pads (POA) by Susan Comer
Cream Satin Carino Dress £170 by Shameless Originals
Pearl Bracelets £15 each by Daisy Chains
White Mini Top Hat £15 and Black Platform Shoe Boots £25 by New Look
Purple Striped Reworked Vintage Bustle Tunic (POA) by Sara Li-Chou Han
Purple Satin Shoes £22 and Purple Snakeskin Bracelets £12 per set by New Look
Purple Fascinator, Sequin Top, Shorts and Tights – Stylist's Own
Turquoise Blouse (POA) by No Machine Could Hope
Blue Swarovski and Feather Hat (POA) by Shameless Originals
Green Skirt, Belt and Silk Scarf – Stylist's own
Blue Suede Shoes – Models' own
Photography by Willie Runte
07878 079 411
Styling and Words by Sara Li-Chou Han
07964 072 879
www.saralichouhan.com
Hair and Make Up by Rebecca Hodgkinson
07867 508 111
Model – Jane Duffy @ Boss
0161 237 0100
Location – Photolink Studios
0161 273 7551
Stockists
Susan Comer - Unique Wearable Art
Studio H, Baltic Creative, 22 Jordan Street, Liverpool
www.susancomer.co.uk/
07950 176 611
https://www.facebook.com/susan.comer2
Jeni Murphy - No Machine Could Hope
07843 230 281
Deborah Clarke - Daisy Chains Jewellery
[email protected] 07786 237371
Deborah Payne - Shameless Originals
26 Hope Street, Liverpool
www.shamelessoriginals.co.uk/
07753 345 936
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Shameless-Originals/30672214592?sk=info
Sara Li-Chou Han
Hotspur House Studios, Manchester
www.saralichouhan.com
07964 072 879
https://www.facebook.com/trashedcouture