the taste of bread

7/29/2019 The Taste of Bread

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Lesaffre

Thanks to the recent development o tools or measuring o taste, such as sensory analysis and

olactometry, bakers can now discover how much their technical skills and their use o taste

ingredients infuence the character o their bread. Filire Pain Gourmand magazine has drawn on the expertise

o the Lesare group to bring you the rst volume o these Cahiers Experts (Expert Notebooks).

The Taste of BreadA combination of Art and Science

Technical Notebook

The lavour o a bread relects the bakers

passion or his work. By putting his creativity

to its best eect, the baker becomes a key player

concerning the taste o his products, which all

bear his own distinctive signature. This is

the key to maximising customer satisaction

and to opening up new horizons thanks to his

inspiration and lair.

Le Gout UK.indd 1Le Gou t UK.indd 1 25/05/09 8:43:4925/05/09 8:43:49


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Lesaffre Technical Notebook



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Lesaffre Technical Notebook The Taste of Bread

3

T

he brain, in a way, is the real seat o tas-

te because it concentrates the varioussensory experiences. But how do they get

there? Try an experiment: put a piece o

bread on your tongue and your tongue and

nose go into action immediately. Both these

oral-nasal organs are receptors o sensory

inormation. Firstly, the taste buds spread

all over the tongue recognise a series o

favours: sugar, salt, acidity and bitterness

among many others. At the same time, the

nose sends complementary inormation to

the brain as the aromas are exhaled through

the mouth and penetrate the retro nasal

passage. This combination o tastes and

aromas is called favour.The consumercan also experience a ood dierently

according to various aesthetic sensations.

For example, a ood eaten hot does not have

the same taste as when eaten cold. Melting

vanilla ice cream tastes sweeter than when it

is eaten very cold. Finally, there are physical

perceptions, such as whether a ood is crispy

or sot. When talking about chocolate, one

oten mentions its crunchiness as a taste

criteria.

Taste is so complex that it makes use o all

ve senses: smell, touch, sight and sound aswell as taste itsel. This restrictive classica-

tion goes back over 2500 years to Aristotle,

who gave himsel the task o arranging eve-

rything - men, fora and auna - into a pre-

cise register with tangible reerence points.

But does this arrangement really help to

explain the mechanics o taste as it is

understood today ? Havent some senses -

such as the sense o balance - been let out

o this classication?

Social and cultural values

The brain keeps a personal record o

products we consume, together with thelevel o pleasure we experience rom them.

For example, some clients think a baguette

with pointed ends is better than the same

baguette without pointed ends. Appearan-

ce infuences our senses, as does the packa-

ging o the product. Isnt it a real pleasure

to go into a bakery where the dcor, the

smell and the breads display stir the sen-

ses and make customers dream? It awakens

childhood memories and represents

About the word taste ...How much simpler it would be or bakers i consumers unanimously agreed

that their bread had a really good taste. Unortunately, individuals judge or

themselves what is good and what is bad. Considering the diversity o bread

throughout the world, it is easy to see why appreciation criteria vary rom one

culture to another and according to individual tastes! How can one explain the

taste o bread? What mechanisms are at work in the consumers brain?

Our discussions with semiologist Laurent Aron give some useul inormation or

understanding this word which is present in everyones mouth..

Index

About the word taste .................... 3

Report rom artisan baker David

Brsard: Taste - its a question

of personality ..........................................5

The worldwide diversity o bread:

Reference terms from here

and elsewhere .........................................6

Creating taste in breadmaking ......... 7

The impact o breadmaking

methods ................................................ 8

Measuring taste: From consumer to

analytical approach................................ 10

From theory to practice .................... 12

The infuence o taste products

on the characteristics o bread ........ 15

Glossary ............................................... 15

Bibliography ....................................... 15

Lesafre International

137 rue Gabriel Pri

59700 - Marcq-en-Barul (France)

Tl. : +33 0(3) 20 81 61 00www.lesare.com

Editor in Chie :

Stphan Bague, LesareInternational Communication

The Lesare Group collaborated

on this notebook with :

Jean-Jacques Semlangne

Camille Dupuy, Head o sensoryanalysis

Evelyne Fonchy-Penot,Head o olactometry

Hubert Maitre, Technical Directoringredients Division

Norbert Grouet, Heado ingredients B.U.

Pascal Lejeune,Head o the Got du Pain

With the kind co-operation o :

Grard Brochoire,Director o INBP

Laurent Aron, Consultantsemiologist specialising in taste

Lesare International

Copyright 2008



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4

The world of the bakery should give pleasure to the customerand make him receptive to new sensations

the epitome o a healthy, well-made, traditional pro-

duct. Sensory panels try to understand this phenomenon by

starting with the simple statements I like it or I dont like it

and then trying to interpret the reasons that lead to this ee-

ling. This is where individual choice is important. Ideas evolve

and sometimes we can help to change values. Twenty years

ago white bread was highly thought o, but these days it is

rejected i it is too white. The reason or this lies in the cultural

associations o the product. In the period rom the ties to theseventies white bread required manual siting o the four. As

technology has gradually replaced manpower, we now tend to

look or unrened products, synonymous with authenticity,

unaltered by science or machines. A similar situation exists in

the sugar industry where rened white sugar now has less

added value than brown sugar.

The limitations o the language o bread

It is di cult to nd a word or every sensory perception. It is

perhaps impossible, as individuals have their own words, their

own vocabulary and above all, their own way o seeing things.

Words are enriched by experience, exactly like colours. Whenwe are young we discover primary colours like blue, then as

we grow older we ll in the palette by adding shades with na-

mes like ultramarine and indigo. We use a standard shade card

as a tool to agree denitions o colour, but it is a matter o in-

terpretative understanding rather than o absolutes. Likewise,

in the language o bread there is no supreme taste or abso-

lute palate. Interpretation oten translates into a prousion o

words as a means o expressing ourselves and o having the

pleasure o speaking about something and sharing our expe-

riences with others, even i individual opinions dier. The lan-

guage used to describe the taste o bread is oten constructed

by borrowing pseudo descriptions rom dierent imaginary

universes. In the bread world these descriptions can reer to

places, or more oten to processes and actual ingredients such

as four, or supposed ingredients such as nuts.

The taste o bread is a culture in progress to which words are

reely added. The vocabulary grows, enriched by experience.In contrast, the lexicon o sensory analysis is created through

a process where words to identiy tastes are selected rom a

palette o terms agreed by all.

We move voluntarily rom a language that is rich and abun-

dant to one that is restrained. Camille Dupuy, who is in charge

o sensory analysis, explains: At Lesare we have established a

precise lexicon or the sensory analysis o several clearly dened

types o breads. A clear distinction can be made between di-

erent textures, such as sticky, spongy, aerated or crumbly.

From fermentation

to the cultivation of tasteThe process o ermentation lies at the heart o complex oodproducts. Through the mastery o ermentation by humangenius, the three major types o ermented oods - bread, wine

and cheese - (to which can be added most types o uncooked

salami-type meat products) create a magic alliance which gives

pleasure while satisying our undamental need or ood. Fer-

mentation is very useul: it conserves oodstus, makes them

more digestible and decreases their glycaemic index while in-creasing the availability o micronutrients. At the same time, it

leads to the production o aromatic molecules, such as those

that everyone recognises in wine-making or in the maturing

process o cheese. These are also present in breadmaking and

the characteristic favour which develops is olactory proo o

a good ermentation well carried out. Over time, these typical

favours have become identied with the very products rom

which they arise, which is why or most consumers taste is

synonymous with a well-made product. The taste o a good

bread refects the quality o its production. However, a num-

ber o actors come into the denition o sensory components.

In order to make good quality bread the baker must choose

Taste is a complex mechanism based on the five senses

Smellthe volatile components o bread

Ex : benzaldhyde (amande amre),

urural (caramel), ...

Seee.g. dark loa, large holes

Hearthe sound o crispness,

crackling

Touchtouching, chewing

sotness, melting

Taste

savour - through the mouthnon-volatile components o bread

are perceived through the mouthsalty, acidic, sweet, bitter

Aromathrough the retronasal passage

volatile components o bread

released by chewingaroma o rye, honey

Olactometry

SENSORYANALYSIS

his ingredients - yeast, four and other ingredients - and must

ully master the control o the production process - kneading,

ermentation and baking.



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5

A universal dimension

When customers advocate a return to tradition and

authenticity the baker knows that he has a card to play in

making them aware o the quality and diversity o his

products. Customers are the judges o whether a product

is satisactory, so it is important to pay attention to their

perceptions. Taste has a cultural dimension based on the

clients imaginary vision o what is best which he hopes tosatisy. He wants to nd a tasty product that will make his

mouth water. But what do you say to describe something

new?

We no longer think o bread just as something to mop up

the sauce with or as an implement or picking up ood.

Knowledge and innovation have enabled bakers to improve

what they have to oer and to adapt to the needs o a demanding

market. Productivity can nally keep up with taste.

Bread has become a ood in its own right. It complements the

oods that it accompanies and adds to appreciation o them,

thus becoming a taste enhancer. From simply being bread

to eat it has become part o the pleasure o eating. We eat

bread as part o a balanced diet in order to stay healthy. Notthat it is quasi-medicinal, but it does contribute to energy

levels and nutritional needs as much as all the other parts o

a meal.

Continual evolution

Todays consumer buys bread according to selection criteria

based on appearance, taste and reshness. Taste is a complex

mechanism which uses all ve senses: sight, touch, taste,

smell and sound. The layout, the ambiance o the bakery and

the customers eelings infuence his purchase and conrm

his denition o taste. A good bread is judged through a

combination o perceptions, relating to tradition, healthand ood saety. The image that the product refects must,

thereore, conorm to that o typical breads and their favours.

But tastes evolve in the course o discussion, so there is no

prole o an ideal bread! Faced with such a variety o eating

habits it is important to identiy and describe the interactions

which give rise to sensory perceptions. For a yeast producer like

Lesare, the experience gained over 150 years o yeast

production and international interaction gives the group

a perect understanding o the language o bread, so that

through a range o technical analyses they are able to

decipher the aromatic components that give dierent breads

their typical tastes.This is truly the cultivation o taste: it starts

with the cultivation o yeast, then the yeast contributes unda-mentally to the aromatic development o bread; nally, there

is an international cultural dimension, in order to adapt and

respond to the specic breadmaking needs o dierent coun-

tries.

Report rom an artisan baker

David Brsard :Taste, its a question of personality

David Brsard*, a baker in the heart o Lille (France), upholds

taste, nourishes it daily and talks about it with great convic-

tion. He recognises, o course, that technique is essential to

optimising taste: he kneads little, preerring to use a ruity

lactic raising agent that requires long ermentation. As ar as

Im concerned, its the ermentation process that controls what

I do, not the other way roundI work exclusively with a liquid

raising agent prepared in a tank o milk. In a way, this persona-

lised raising agent is my signature. But in addition to this, Da-

vid Brsard does his best to leave the imprint o his own taste

on each o his breads. : I cant make any bread unless I like it

mysel. he says. What about his customers expectations?

Ive resisted the temptation to make standard baguettes,tinned

loaves or voluminous boulots. I want to meet my clients hal

way and lead them into a world o diversity and favours. So

three quarters o my baguettes are specials. Like a restau-rateur, he eels it is his duty to oer both a xed menu o

breads and a bread o the day all week long.

Selling taste

So, how does he sell diversity when the only judge is the client?

Taste nds its own way. There are clients who arrive in my

shop with heads down asking or a standard baguette. As I

dont have any, I naturally give them my attention and try to

nd out what their tastes are and what sort o bread they like.

Do they want a dense texture, a thick crust or a thin one, an

acid or a ruity taste, a honeycombed appearance or a long

shel lie? Then I get them to try various breads. Daring to taste

is a big step orward. This clients view o bread will be chan-

ging. Like wine and cheese, bread deserves to have its own

vocabulary, its own words so that it can be discussed. Moreo-

ver, the vocabulary o bread should be taught, so that bakers

and shopkeepers can ully exploit their role as advisers. I know

that to sell my bread I have to dramatise my products, create

some interest and be close to my clients. Taste is lie. You cant

imagine how pleased people are when they see me coming up

rom the bakehouse with a batch o bread. Contact and close-

ness are essential in my trade. Listening to David Brsard, one

realises that taste is the essence o his business, inspired by his

artistic personality and environment and brought to ruition

on the palates and in the souls o his clients.

David Brsard is a master baker who has been awarded the Ami des Arts.*At 34 he has three shops in Lille, employing 26 staf.



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Inuences o geographic region

For centuries, cereal growing was governed by climatic condi-

tions, which led to the predominance o one breadmaking

method according to region. Agricultural progress in the 20 th

century, such as changes in wheat and rye growing areas,

selection o varieties and exchanges between continents hasencouraged the sharing o baking practices and has led to the

enlargement o the range o bread products available.

From traditional links...

Our daily bread , inherited rom the habits o our oreathers,

is very dierent rom one country to another and everyone

has his own repertoire o tastes and sensory reerences. Every

consumer assesses the shape, colour and crustiness o bread,

as well as texture and taste according to his own experiences

and judges all other breads accordingly. Nevertheless, while

in some countries bread is still a basic oodstu, elsewhere it is

ollowing the tendencies o the consumer society. The higher

the standard o living, the more the consumer searches or the

exotic and sophisticated .

... to the mixing and intermingling o cultures

Today there is so much diversity that any consumer loo-

king or new types o bread is spoilt or choice. Migratory

movements and the development o exchanges between

countries have contributed to an intermingling o cultu-

res rom which bread has not escaped - all the better or us!

Certain breads have been exported together with their

methods o manuacture and have been ully assimilated by

their hosts - or example, the baguette in Japan, Turkish bread

in Germany and the ciabatta, which was originally Italian but

is now ound throughout Northern Europe.

The diversity o breads throughout the world has not come about by accident. It is di cult to classiy breadsaccording to type, because this truly worldwide heritage is the result o numerous actors such as geography,

climate, culturePITA BREADPita bread, also known asArabic bread, has its ori-gins in a valley betweenthe Euphrates and theTigris. This area is oneof the cradles of civilisa-tion, of agriculture - andof bread. Its flat shapearises from being bakedon a stone by means ofheat conduction or di-

rectly in the embers. Pita bread is soft and very lightly salted. It shouldnot be torn. These days pita bread is used throughout the world insteadof a spoon or a plate. It is widely used to make oriental sandwiches, byfilling between the two layers. It dries out rapidly and should be eatenquickly.

RYE BREADRye is typical of Centraland Northern Europe andwas for a long time thedominant cereal in theseregions. Then selectivebreeding and importa-tion allowed cultivationto become more diversi-fied and led to the intro-

duction of wheat. Ryebread always requires

the use of an acidifier to prevent it becoming sticky. It is thereforeoften characterised by a strong acidity. Rye bread is best eaten aftertwo days when it is beginning to dry out.

BAGUETTEThe origins of the ba-guette are obscure. Itis an emblem of France,much appreciated for itslength and its slimness.Over time, it has grownin length, no doubt toincrease its crustinessand perhaps to distin-guish it from the largeround loaves that bakers

used to make and which kept for longer. In the 19th

century baguettesweighed no less than two pounds! Today they are made to be eaten thesame day. They are rarely wrapped. Bakers bake them daily, preferringfreshness and crustiness to long shelf-life.

WHITE BREADThis is the typical Anglo-Saxon bread. Althoughits highest productionlevel is in the UnitedStates, the home ofthe famous slicedwhite loaf is actuallyin England. It has beenwidely adopted throu-

ghout Northern Europeand is often eaten toas-

ted. In the United States it has a higher sugar and fat content. The keyfactor of this bread is its softness. In English-speaking parts of Africa,such as Nigeria, white bread is preferred very sweet, well kneadedand cooked at low temperature. More surprisingly, Japan holds therecord for consumption of white bread, comprising 60% of its totalbread consumption.

The worldwide diversity o bread

Reference terms from hereand elsewhere



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A palette o ingredients

The most obvious way o diversiying the quality o bread isto play around with its composition and the type o cerealsused. The basis o the products identity lies in the variety o

wheat. This is complemented by the addition o cereals such

as rye, buckwheat, German wheat, mixed rye and wheat, corn

or fax in the orm o four or seed. On a more sophisticated

level, specic cereal ingredients such as wheatgerm, malt or

bran can be added to reinorce certain aromatic notes. These

ingredients, based on wheat or rye, undergo dierent degrees

o ermentation beore being dried. The choice o cereal, the

degree o drying and the nal combination o dierent dried

ermented products allows the aromatic balance o the bread

to be altered. It is thus possible to reinorce the grilled ,

roasted or sugary notes, to guide ones taste towards an

acidic favour or to mask other tastes. Taking things one step

urther, sourdough derivatives in either dried or liquid orm

are very simple to use because they are mixed directly into

the dough. These are the source o a rich, complex bouquet

resulting directly rom the raising agent. In recent years the

use o yeast derivatives has been greatly developed, due to

their excellent qualities as sensory stimulants and taste en-

hancers. They can be used to increase or correct the aromatic

prole o the dough

Fermentation, the natural way to taste

The primary unction o ermenting agents such as yeasts

and bacteria is to make the dough rise. By partially consu-

ming the sugars in the four the natural metabolism o these

micro-organisms produces carbon dioxide and ethanol which

cause an increase in volume during baking. The production

o these components is accompanied by the release o a large

number o favour molecules. The quantity produced varies ac-

cording to other actors such as the four and other ingredients,

the kneading, water content, length and temperature o er-

mentation, etc. These reveal themselves during baking, either by

releasing the cell contents ollowing the destruction o the

micro-organisms by the heat, or by the intense biochemi-

cal reactions that occur during baking. Each type o yeast or

bacteria imparts specic aromatic notes to the bread,

depending on its metabolism. Finally, there over 200 molecu-

les that make up the taste o bread. The same ingredients can

produce dierent aromatic proles according to the length and

temperature o the ermentation process. The combination o

unique complex favours in each type o bread, are the bakers

signature and evidence o his skill in the breadmaking process.

Raising agents, a new step towards originality

The use o raising agents in breadmaking generates the

richest tastes, due to their complex fora which ully

combine yeasts and bacteria. However, the use o natural rai-

sing agents requires such a high level o organisation that this

practice, common at the end o the 19th century, is today very

limited. This situation and the positive image o raising agents

has led yeast producers to develop ermentation agents

which combine ease o use and diversity with traditional taste.

The rst generation o these products was used as a starter,

but these days there is a complete range o ready-to-use

raising agents.

The baker is a real artist in the creation o taste, drawing on a palette o varied ingredients and using dierent

ermentation techniques to typiy and personalise his breads and pastries. As Grard Brochoire, director o the

INBP, explains, the quality o good bread depends 75% on the baker, thats how important technique is in

breadmaking! Through curiosity, sensitivity, audacity and technique, these days every baker has the means oexperimenting with the taste o bread.

Creating taste in breadmaking

Bakers are well aware that unless raising agents are re-

reshed they become over acidied and their benecial fo-

ra are destroyed. With most commercially available raising

agents this usually happens within a ew days. Their biomass

declines, rapidly reducing their eect on simple favouring

and acidication. Sourdough bread is characterised by the

active ermentation o benecial fora during breadmaking.

This means that the raising agent must have at least a mi-

nimum level o viable biomass - a act that has now beenestablished in law by the Decret pain [Bread Law]. By ully

analysing the ageing mechanism o bread fora, Lesare has

been able to modiy the maturing process o raising agents.

This new, patented maturing process has enabled the e-

ective lie o the raising agent to be prolonged. These days,

a distinction must be made between ready-to-use raising

agents with a variable biomass and those with a minimum

guaranteed biomass. Lesare oers the latter as part o its

Crme de Levain range o products.

Lesaffre scientists at the service ofraising agents

The growth of yeast, seen through an electronic scanning microscope



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It is commonly acknowledged that bread has to tastegood, but the idea o how it should taste varies rom oneconsumer to another, or even or the same consumer at

dierent times. In a world where there is a huge variety o

oods on oer breads cannot all be expected to have the

same taste. There are a considerable number o possible tech-

niques to choose rom in breadmaking, and it is up to each

individual to decide which he preers. Like other cratsmen

making ood products, the baker has to get into the habit otasting his bread, either to create new favours, or to make any

corrections that may be necessary with each batch to

maintain the standards expected by his clients.

Over sixty years ago, Henri Nuret, an eminent proessor o

four milling, who cannot be accused o partiality because

o his job, said that good bread depends: 15% on the wheat,

10% on the miller and 75% on the baker. This emphasi-

ses the importance o breadmaking technique! With this in

mind, Grard Brochoire, Director o the Institut National de la

Boulangerie et de la Ptisserie (INBP) [The National Institute

o Bread and Pastry Making], summarises the importance o

ermentation and o kneading in the taste creation process.

Kneading - a air compromise

Intensive kneading was used in the ties and sixties to

produce white bread with good volume but little taste. We

now know that intensive kneading produces three times

as many volatile organic acids with what is perceived as an

unpleasant smell as does slow kneading. However, slow

kneading produces a dough with limited volume that is

unsuitable or production o the small items that are most

popular today, such as baguettes and rolls.

Improved kneading allows a compromise between these

two preceding methods, producing a correctly developedbread with good taste and improved shel-lie. Given an equal

amount o energy, speed is less important than duration.

In other words, it is better to knead at a slightly higher speed

or a shorter period than at a slower speed or a longer period.

This better preserves the carotenoid pigments responsible

or taste. The proportional length between the 1st speed and

2nd speed is variable, depending on wheat and hydration. An

approximate duration can be established but the important

thing is to stop kneading beore the dough becomes white..

Duration o kneading or a ork kneading machine :

(oblique axis)

Slow kneading 15 minutes at speed 1

Improved kneading 4 to 5 minutes at speed 1

and 10 to 12 minutes at speed 2

Intensive kneading 4 to 5 minutes at speed 1

and 18 to 20 minutes at speed 2

The order in which the ingredients are added has some eect

on the taste. The inclusion o salt right at the start o the knea-

ding process has a positive eect, as the salt will be perectly

distributed in the dough and can eectively limit oxidation.

Fermentation - a taste actory

Fermentation is evidence o the second major taste actor. We

know that this type o alcoholic ermentation breaks down

pre-existing sugars and a very small part o the starch in the

four. This alteration, while modest in quantity, completelychanges the nature o the dough, by developing specic fa-

vours and modiying its alveolar structure.

It is possible to play around with a number o parameters, such

as the type and quantity o the ermenting agent, the ambient

temperature, the length o ermentation and the contribution

o various ingredients.

There are two main types o ermentation in baking:

Fermentation with raising agents : this encourages the

development o yeasts and bacteria naturally present in

the four and in the atmosphere, which assist in the natural

ermentation o the dough.

Fermentation with yeast: industrially cultivated yeast is

made up o billions o cells o the same strain o Saccharo-

myces cerevisiae. Fermentation with selected strains will pro-

duce exactly the same results rom one batch to the next.

The impactof

breadmakingmethods

Proofing is an important stage for successful breadmakingDuring this stage flavours develop fully.



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Three techniques are normally used with yeast:

The direct method: this is the simplest method in which the

yeast is added directly into the kneading machine. To allow

the development o favours it is essential to use the correct

quantity o yeast and to control the length o the ermen-

tation programme. The minimum period o proong is one

hour. It is also possible to practise retarded proong. At the

end o the kneading process the dough is put into a tub andstored at + 10C or 6 to 12 hours. The time, temperature

and quantity o yeast must be careully controlled to obtain

optimum ermentation. This technique is similar to slow

proong, where the ormed dough is stored at 10C Howe-

ver, although the ermentation times are similar or the two

techniques, slow proong oten produces larger loaves with

a less intense favour.

Working with ermented dough : this consists o adding

dough rom a previously kneaded batch in a quantity varying

rom 100 to 500 g per litre o mixture. The previously kneaded

paste should be added hal way through the kneading pro-

cess, in order to avoid spoiling the taste by over-kneading.

This technique has the advantage o reducing waiting time,

while obtaining similar favours to those rom a long proo-

ng period. It can add a slightly acid note depending on the

degree o maturity o the ermented dough. However, this is

not a raising agent as the ermentation is carried out entirely

by the bakerys own yeast. Using a raising agent must not be

conused with working with ermented dough, especially in

the product description at the point o sale.

Poolish : this method has been recognised since around

1870 when yeast was rst used in French bakeries. As the

yeast was o unequal quality it was saer to pre-erment it.

This method had allen out o avour, but reappeared about

twenty years ago. The poolish method gives a slight acidity.

It produces sot bread, somewhat like brioche, and is parti-

cularly chewy. However, when both techniques are properly

used there is little dierence with directly made bread.

Example o production o a hal poolish

Total quantity

used

Preparation

o the

poolish

Fermentation Kneading

Water: 10 l

Flour: 15 kg

Salt: 270 g

Yeast: 155 g

Water: 5 l

Flour: 5 kg

(hydration

100%)

Yeast: 15 g

15 to18 h

at 20-22C

Poolish (10 kg)

Water: 5 l

Flour: 10 kg

Salt: 270 g

Yeast: 140 g

This is called a half poolish :

5 litres, i.e. half of the 10 litres of waterused in the above diagram is required for the poolish ,the other half is added during the final kneadingof the dough. By varying the duration of kneadingand the fermentation methods the baker can createbread with a multitude of tastes and textures,thus adapting to consumer demand.

The aromatic molecules really come out in the course of baking.



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Product development depends on the judgement o sensory analysis panels, as well as on complementary tech-

niques o chromatography, mass spectrometry and olactometry.

Measuring taste

From consumerto analytical approach

The relationship between the expert

and the consumer

The smell, taste, favour and texture o bread are the consu-mers major quality criteria and are naturally the mainconcern o the bakery. As there is no measuring equipment

that can precisely evaluate these criteria, tasting panels are

used, whose members can judge the same sensory stimulants

that will be perceived by the consumer: the smell o a brio-

che, the taste o rye, an acid favour, a crispy crust. Such tastingsessions create a link between the world o consumer taste,

the world o baking technology and o physico-chemical ana-

lysis. The market is infuenced by innovation and ashion so

the product needs to be careully placed in the right context

and with the right reerences or the moment. Tasters undergo

regular training based on tests o new products, so that their

reerence notes are constantly updated.

Complex research tools

To analyse an odour extracted rom bread it is necessary to

separate and then identiy the dierent components o the

aroma. In a gas chromatograph the molecules o the aroma

are vaporised and then carried in a vector gas under pressurethrough a thin tube several metres long called a column.

Some o the molecules partially attach themselves to the

material, which slows them down. The size and the mass o

the molecules will thus infuence their speed o migration. Two

types o detectors are used to identiy them:

the mass spectrometer, to give a name to the molecules

detected;

the human nose, to evaluate the odorous strength o these

molecules

By combining gas chromatography and mass spectrometry

(GC/MS) one can identiy components according to their

retention time and their mass. However, the molecules

identied by GC/MS are not necessarily those that infuencethe smell o the bread and there can be important odour

molecules which remain at the bottom.

The olactometry, or sni ng tests, carried out at the end o

the column (see box) complete the analysis, by submitting

a mixture o volatile odorous components to the human nose.

It requires the perception levels o the nose panel to pick up

odours that are lost at the bottom level which the chromato-

graph cannot identiy. The research is rened by determining

the aromatic descriptions and the retention times correspon-

ding to those particular molecules. Not all identied compo-

nents contribute in the same way to the overall aroma o the

product. By combining olactometry and gas chromatogra-

phy, mixed up molecules are separated and then individually

smelled by a trained person. This identication compares and

classies the various molecules among themselves.

Depending on the perception level o the molecule, a person

can either detect it or not and qualiy it with a description. The

quantitative importance o a component does not necessarily

mean that it has a major role rom an olactory point o view.

So the aromatic value o a component has to be consi-

dered according to the ollowing ormula:

C/L =the concentration (C) of the molecule in the matrix (ppb)

the level (L) at which this same molecule is

perceivable(ppb)

Lesare has a nose panel composed o about twentypeople, selected or their sensory capacities and theircognitive skills (good memory o smells). First o all they

develop together a common vocabulary o descriptionso pure components or reerence. They are regularly

trained to describe pure molecules selected rom the Field

o Odours and to recognise them on samples o bread.

From the descriptions and rom the retention times given

during the olactometry sessions it is possible to identiy

the molecules that play an important role in the smell o a

given product. The levels o perception dier greatly rom

one person to another, which means that the same extract

needs to be snied by several people (usually six to eight)

to obtain a good representative result.

Olfactometry at Lesaffre

A member of the nose panel in full concentration



11/16


11

This enables the evaluation o what a particular compo-

nent contributes to a mixture, an aromatic preparation, or an

aroma, called an odour power . For example, 2.5 dimethyl

pyrazine has a direct olaction perception level o 800 ppb,

while or acetic acid it is 22,000. In the same concentration the

2.5 dimethyl pyrazine would have an aroma value 27 times hi-

gher! The higher this actor, the more the molecule is likely to

contribute to the aroma o the product.

The advantage o this technique is that in many cases the hu-man nose is more sensitive than electrochemical sensors, such

as ionisation detectors or mass spectrometers.

Sensory analysis at Lesafre

The preerences o bread consumers leading to a purchase in-

clude individual parameters such as mood and social context,

the purchase environment at the point o sale, the presenta-

tion o the bread and, above all, the sensory characteristics o

the bread.

But can one explain and anticipate consumers reactions?

This is the objective o sensory analysis, which contributes to

the development o new products through testing by tastingpanels.

The use o pertinent and discriminative descriptions allows

the precise characterisation o eelings. There are several le-

vels o panel at Lesare , explains Camille Dupuy, head o the

sensory analysis laboratory. Firstly, there is a panel o novices

who carry out triangular dierentiation tests. Then we have qua-

lied and expert panels who have received undergone. They are

able to evaluate sensory intensity on a notation scale and to reer

to precise descriptions. They have also learnt to distance themsel-

ves rom their personal reerences and rom intuitive reactions.

The expert panel was set up in 2003 to describe the textures

o crust and loa o various bread products: white bread, brio-

ches, baguettes, pita bread. The experience that Lesare has

acquired on a worldwide level enables it to adapt more easily

to clients requirements.

The perception level o a component corresponds to the concentration at1.

which the substance is discernible by a human being, but cannot be identi-ed. This level depends not only on the concentration o the molecule butalso on the matrix in which it is incorporated. Moreover, each person has his

own unique perception level or any given component.

ACCORDING TO JEAN-NOEL JAUBERT

SULPHUROUS POLE

AMINO POLE

HESPERIDIAN POLE

TERPENIC POLE

FRUITY DOMINANCE

FATTY DOMINANCE

WOODY DOMINANCE

PYROGENIC POLE

SWEET POLE

K E Y

STRUCTURE

OF ODOUR SPACE

(PRINCIPAL POLES)

SWEET

FATTY

AMIN.

TERP.

PYR.

HESP.

SULPH

FLAT DIAGRAM

OF THE STRUCTURE IN SPACE

ESTERIFIED

MINTY

GARLICY

SULPHUROUS

BAKED

ANIMAL

MUSKY

AMBER

SPICYRUSTIC RUSTY

HONEY

LACTONIC

ETHERIC

GREEN

SEA FRESH

ALDEHYDE

ZESTY

TERPENIC

LEMONY

KETONIC

MUSQ.

ANISEED

WOODY

MOSSY

MOULDY

EARTHY

PHENOL

CARAMEL

VANILLA

BALSAMIC

CUMARIN

CIN.PHEN.

F R U I T Y

G R I L L E D

B

TERPENIC

FL O

RAL

R O

S E

B UT T

E RC U

P

JAZ M

I N

LACTIC

BU

TTERY

AM

INO

L A VA N D E R

The description o odours

is a di cult exercise that

many scientists have

attempted to undertake in

order to establish an

objective classication

o odour molecules.

There are, thereore, many

classication systems, such

as Jean-Nol Jauberts

Field o Odours, which

places each odour molecule

in a category. Starting with64 elementary descriptions

nearly 1,400 basic

molecules can easily be

described according to the

characteristics o their

classied odour!

THE FIELD OF ODOURS



12/16


12

In order to illustrate the preceding method o taste analy-

sis with actual examples, ve representative types o breadwere made.

Directly made bread, 3 hour programme.1.

Retarded proong (14 hours at 10C).2.

Directly made bread, 3 hour programme with the addition o3.

2% strongly acidic dehydrated ermented rye four.

Round loa with raising agent, retarded proong using 5% o4.

ready-to-use liquid raising agent with guaranteed minimum

bio-cultures.

Country-style bread with 20% liquid raising agent with varia-5.

ble bio-cultures.

N.B. For practical reasons, the raising agents in breads 4 and 5

were used at a date close to their use-by date

Directbreadmaking

withyeast

FORMULA

PROGRAMME

Retardedproofing

withyeast

Wheat flour T55

Rye flour T130

Water

Salt

Yeast block "hirondelle bleu"

Improver "Ibis bleu"

Dehydrated fermented flour

Raising agent with variable biomass

Raising agent with guaranteed minimum biomass

Type of kneading machine

Kneading

V.L.

V.R.

Resting

Machine division

Resting

Shape

Proofing

Baking

100%

61,50%

1,80%

3%

1%

spiral

3 min

5 min

20C/10 min

340 g

20C/10 min

batard

2h/20C

18 min/230C

100%

62,50%

2%

1,20%

1%

spiral

3 min

5 min

20C/10 min

350 g

20C/10 min

batard

14h/20C

30 min/230C

100%

64%

1,80%

2,50%

1%

2%

spiral

4 min

5 min

20C/20 min

350 g

20C/20 min

batard

2h/20C

35 min/230C

91%

9%

60%

2,20%

2%

20%

spiral

4 min

3 min

20C/3 h

500 g

20C/20 min

batard

1h/21C

40 min/230C

90%

10%

53%

2%

0%

5%

spiral

5 min

30 sec

25C/14 h

1 kg

20C/20 min

round

3h/25C

45 min/225C

Directbreadmaking

withdehydrated

fermentedflour

Raisingagentwith

variablebiomass

Longproofingwith

raisingagentwith

guaranteedminimum

biomasse

( long and thin) ( long and thin) ( long and thin) ( long and thin)

Recipes for the selected breads

These dierent types o breadmaking were chosen in order to

study three parameters and their interactions:

the type o acidication (dehydrated ermented four versus-

raising agent);

the length o ermentation (direct versus retarded proong)-

the quality o raising agent (raising agent with variable bio--mass versus raising agent with guaranteed minimum bio-

mass)

Ater tasting by the qualied panel a statistical analysis (Ana-

lysis o Main Ingredients*) was carried out in order to identiy

groups o homogenous products.

The AMI represents a diagrammatic projection o products/descriptions. The*two axes are linear combinations o evaluated sensory descriptions.

From theoryto practice

This diagram shows the process of analysis for the identificationof existing markets and the development of new products.It defines a progression of tools that are used to explore andrefine the knowledge of taste components according to needsand problems. The results of the analysis generate guidelinesfor marketing activities and quality assurance. Accordingto the steps followed, they can also serve to identifycustomer demand and translate it into a detailed

technical specification.

The Analytical Approach to Bread Aromas

Sensory analysis

Qualied panels

Sensory identity

cards

Chemical analysis

pH, T.T.A

Level o acids

Quantication

o acids

Molecular analysis

GC/MS*

Identity card o

volatile molecules

Olactometry

Identity card

o odorous molecules

Bread

Breadmaking

with yeast

Breadmaking

acid , sponge

Level o acidity

Acid taste

Flora

Positioning o products

characterisation/type

Quality assurance

Classication

Acid raising agents

Identication o

new markets

Creation/Modication

o products

Consumer testing

Product Launch

Odor components



13/16


13

This rst analysis isolated 2 homogenous groups which

were re-analysed with sensory analysis and then with olacto-

metric analysis:

a group o - non-acidic/slightly acidic breads: directly baked

breads, retarded proong breads, bread with dehydrated er-

mented four;

a group o - more acidic breads: bread made with guaran-

teed minimum biomass raising agent, bread made with va-

riable biomass raising agent, bread with dehydrated ermen-

ted four.

The AMI shows that the bread made with dehydrated ermen-

ted four has intermediate characteristics. It was thereore in-

cluded in each o the two groups or detailed analyses.

Analytical Chart less acidic breads

aerated loa

close texture

acidic taste

aroma o rye white four aroma

irregular holes

Retardedproofng bread

Directly cooked bread

directly cooked bread +dehydrated ermented four

acrated

yeasty smell/ermented

Group o non-acidic or slightly acidic breads

The analytical approach to bread aromas table (page IX)

shows that physico-chemical analysis is not very relevant or

this type o product. Only sensory analysis and olactometric

analysis are useul.

The directly baked bread has a characteristic yeasty/ermen-

ted aroma, typical o this type o breadmaking and oten

much appreciated. With olactometric analysis we have been

able to show that this aroma mainly comes rom a ew mo-

lecules arising rom the metabolism o the yeast, such as 2

methyl-1-butanol (ermented, winey) 3 methyl- 1-butanol

(whisky, malt) and phenylethanol (rose, winey).

In the bread made with dehydrated ermented four one also

nds an acidic character. Moreover, the rye aroma is very evi-

dent. However the colour o the bread is signicantly darker.

The aromatic type is thereore easily recognisable.

In the olactometric analysis one nds that in the presence o

dehydrated ermented four the above-mentioned aromatic

components are still present in similar quantities. Neverthe-

less, several other molecules were also detected in the analysis

in addition to acetic acid:

isobutyric, isovaleric and butyric acids, lactate o ethyl and-

octanoate o ethyl; traces o at and butter

benzaldehyde, urural: grilled traces-

phenylacetaldehyde: honey traces-

These new molecules were able to mask the perception o

the yeast odour.

The bread made with yeast with a retarded proong pro-

gramme also allowed the transormation o this yeasty type

into a more cereal-like white four note. The olactometric

analysis shows that the dominant aromatic molecules in the

direct baking programme are metabolised into a great va-

riety o molecules which give this cereal note.

In the non-acidic or slightly acidic breadmaking we have

illustrated two ways o improving bread favours:

the addition o aromatising products gives a typical fa--

vour, even with a small quantity o additive and masks the

yeasty notes (in our example a dehydrated ermented

four revealed an acidic taste);

the lengthening o ermentation (in this case by retarded-proong) transorms the yeasty note into a cereal note

and improves the texture and thereore the aromatic inten-

sity.

Gas chromatographic and mass spectrometric profiles of odour moleculesshown in olfactometry:- bread made directly (in green)

- bread made directly containing dehydrated fermentedflour (in red)

2 methyl - 1 butanol + 3 methyl - 1 butanol

phenylethanol

1. lactate o ethyl

2. octanoate o ethyl

3. acetic acid

4. urural

5. benzaldehyde

6. isobutyric acid

7. butyric acid

8. phenylacetaldehyde

9. isovaleric acid



14/16


14

Group o more acidic breads

In this group o products the physico-chemical analysis makes

complete sense:

the bread with dehydrated ermented four and the bread

with variable biomass raising agent are equivalent in terms

o pH (approx. 4.67), but the latter attains 3 times greater

concentrations o acetic (0.6 compared to 0.2 g/kg). This di-erence translates into a much clearer perception o acidity in

the sensory analysis;

in this breadmaking programme, only the bread made with

the minimum guaranteed biomass reaches the specica-

tions o the dcret pain [Bread law] (bread pH 0.9 g/kg o bread) with concen-

trations o lactic acid and acetic acid respectively 3.5 and 2

times greater than those or bread made with variable bio-

mass raising agent.

The physico-chemical analysis is completed by sensory and

olactory analyses.

In this new rame o reerence the pain sur levain , i.e. the

bread made with dehydrated ermented four, is less aromatic

( white four description) and the acidic note disappears.

The bread made with the raising agent with the minimum

guaranteed biomass has the strongest aromas o vinegar,

rye and persistent taste . It also has a darker colour and a

much more irregular texture. This is a typical traditional type

bread, clearly made with a raising agent.

Through olactometric analysis o the bread made with the

guaranteed minimum biomass, we ound a signicant amount

o acetic acid and various molecules:

acetate o ethyl, acetate o isoamyle, p-cimene: ruity notes-

2-pentyl uran, saturated atty acids rom C6 to C9: buttery-

and cheesy notesurural and ururylic alcohol: grilled notes-

All these molecules contribute to the aromatic richness o

bread made with a raising agent.

Analytical Chart more acidic breads

irregular air holes

acidic taste

white four aroma

clearly

darker

cereal taste

honey odour

persistent taste

rye aroma

vinegary odour

round loa with minimumguaranteed biomass

raising agent

Countrystyle bread withvariable biomass e raising agent

directly baked bread +dehydrated ermented our

The bread baked with the variable biomass raising agent

was also interesting in terms o taste. The sensory evaluation

showed evidence that its dominant aromas were honey and

cereal and that overall it was less acidic. The texture was

more regular and the bread was lighter in colour. It is an inte-

resting aroma but it does not have the characteristic notes o

bread made with raising agent.

In the group o breads made with a raising agent, the breadwith dehydrated ermented four stood out immediately

through its lack o richness and aromatic intensity.

Comparison o the two breads made with raising agents

showed clear evidence o the need to combine a raising agent

with a guaranteed minimum biomass and a long ermentation

in order to achieve the richness and aromatic intensity o real

bread made with raising agents, as well as consistency in the

mouth, characteristical texture and good keeping properties.

The breads that we have chosen to illustrate the analytic explo-

ration o bread favours are just one example among others.

We could have chosen to examine other characteristics:

development o the aroma created by raising agents with va--

riable biomass o various ages;

the aromatic diversity o breads made with raising agents-

with a guaranteed minimum biomass according to various

breadmaking programmes;

a comparison o the aromatic contribution o dehydrated er--

mented fours and liquid ermented fours;

the aromatic diversity o breads made = rom starter cultures-

based raising agents, with variable fora;

a comparison with a bread with natural raising agents or a-

bread with a raising agent with guaranteed minimum bio-

mass

decrease in salt by using yeast derivatives.-

The list could be even longer!

These analytic disciplines are revolutionising the approach to

taste in breadmaking.

Two means o generating taste

The dierent breadmaking methods described here highlight

the two complementary ways o generating taste in breadma-

king:

the addition o favour-enhancing products adds taste wi--

thout changing the breadmaking method. These products

clearly typiy the bread but they do not give it the aromatic

richness o products that have an active ermentation, even

when they are added in very large quantities (raising agent

with variable biomass );

the combination o ermentation agents and long matura--

tion results in the aromatic richness o traditional breads but

requires more complex production methods.

These two methods - practicality and long ermentation - are

not contradictory. Sensory analysis clearly shows that each o

them produces its own aromatic type. Rather than being op-

posites, they bring diversity.



15/16

15


Products ApplicationsQuantity

Used grilled,

toastednote

Nonliveproducts

Liveproducts

antimould

ColourA ro mas Texture Freshness Shelf-life

(1)

(1)

(2)

acidnote

(2)

sourdough

note

(2)

honey

hazelnut,

buttery

(1)

(1)

(3)

(3)

fruityacid

note

(1)

(1)

(3)

(3)

fermented

note

cerealnote

(1)

(1)

taste

enhancer

insidecolour

(1)

(1)

colour

ofcrust

improvement

oftexture

freshness

(1) : variable according to quantity used

(2) : variable according to the age of the product

(3) : variable according to process

(4) : dose added in relation to the final flour

corresponding to 0.2-0.5% of the sourdough flour

(conforms to bread law legislation)

slight

Medium

Strong

Baguette, country-style bread, special bread

Traditional baguette, ciabatta/pav

Baguette, country-style bread, special bread, ciabatta/pavTraditional baguette

Baguette, country-style bread, special bread, ciabatta/pav


Rye bread

Brioche/white loaf

Traditional baguette, bread with sourdough taste



Traditional French baguette, countrystyle, special

Traditional baguette, ciabatta/pav

Brioche/white loaf


Sourdough bread, bio bread

Viennese bread

Brioche/white loaf

Traditional baguette, bread with sourdough taste, special breads

Sourdough bread, bio bread

Traditional baguette, bread with sourdough taste, special breads

Brioche/white loaf

5-20%

5-20%

1-3%1-3%

1-3%

1-5%

1-5%

1-5%

1-5%

5-20%

5-20%

1-3%

0,1-3%

2-4%

5-15%

5-15%

5-15%

5-15%

0,04%-0,1% (4)

0,04%-0,1% (4)

0,04%-0,1% (4)

0,04%-0,1% (4)

cereals

yeast combination

dried fermented flour

liquid fermented flour

raising agent with

variable biomass

yeast

raising agent with

guaranteed minimum

biomasse

Acetic starter

Lactic starter

The influence of taste products on the characteristics of bread

Crat bakers and industrial manuacturers today have a very wide choice o taste products on the market to improve not only the aromas, but also the colour and structure o the bread, its reshness and shel-lie,

according to the product. These products range rom simple avour enhancers, the addition o which does not alter the breadmaking process, to live ready-to-use raising agents that enable the creation o a

range o unique and varied breads according to which usage method is chosen.Presently the products on ofer tend to be complete breadmaking aids, combining improvements in rheology, appearance, taste, reshness and shel-lie. These products allow bakers to concentrate on their real

job - the creation o bread.

In these pages, bread has requently been compared towine and cheese. It is true that what these three oodstushave in common is that ermentation plays an essential part

in their development, particularly in the synthesis o their

aromas. Bread, which is a basic nutritional staple when

buying power is low, becomes an accompaniment when thestandard o living rises. For some time now, rather than being an

essential, bread and the pleasure derived rom its taste have

been considered as accessories - unlike its two brothers, wine

and cheese, which have always been discussed and appreciated

in generous terms. We love to talk about our past experiences,

our new discoveries and our special moments.

With the huge selection now on oer bread has become a ood o

character and has conrmed its right to be the centre o interest.

It is not just tasted with cheese but agreeably complements

most oods. It can even be eaten on its own, just or pleasure!

Bread has become highly valued due to the development o

technique. Scientists, industrial manuacturers and cratsmen

all work together to satisy the tastes o a more knowledgeable

and more demanding clientele who love both tradition and

experimentation. These days, the art o making tasty bread

can be pursued with a large palette o dierent resources.

Physico-chemical analytical tools, an understanding o breadfora and mastery o the production o live micro-organisms ena-

ble us to oer bakers products that guarantee perormance, are

easy to use, reliable and sae so that they can create quality bread

with excellent taste, but also with a good shel lie, texture and

appearance. It is up to bakers to make ull use o their creative

talents and skills, and up to scientists and manuacturers o

ermentation agents to give them the tools that they need.

It is in pursuit o this logic and in this evironment that

Lesare carry on with the development o their products and

techniques, motivated by: the cultivation o taste in

breadmaking .

In Conclusion

Glossary

Aroma : the volatile compo-

nents o bread released (into

the retro-nasal passage) when

it is chewed. e.g. rye, honey

Shelf-life : the length o time

that bread conserves its micro-

bial quality beore the appea-

rance o mould.

Colour : colour o the interior

(white, cream, yellow, beige,

grey, caramel), colour o the

crust (golden, brown, dark

brown, red).

Flavour : the combination o

sensations perceived by the

nasal passage (odours), the

taste passage (tastes) and the

retro-nasal passage (aromas).

The other senses (sight, sound,

touch) also indirectly infuence

favour

Freshness : the upkeep o the

breads sensory characteristics

(crustiness, sotness, aroma).

Odour : emanations rom the

volatile ingredients o bread

which can be perceived by ol-

actory equipment. e.g. benzal-

dehyde (bitter almond), urural

(caramel).

Savour : a sensation that sti-

mulates taste, e.g. piquant, acid.

Texture : texture is associated

with the consistency o the

bread when it is seen, touched

and chewed (the inside, the

crust) e.g. the holes in the bread:

aerated/dense; the sotness

when touched or in the mouth:

sot/rm, exible/resistant, stic-

ky/dry



16/16

www.lesaffre.com


Lesaffre Technical Notebook

08M03

the taste of bread

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