1

"The taylors of the regiment"

Insights on Soldiers Making and Mending Clothing, and Continental Army Clothing Supply

1778 to 1783

John U. Rees

The popular view of Continental soldiers as a bedraggled and poorly–dressed group, while

exaggerated, has some basis in fact. There were times when soldiers’ clothing was worn and

tattered for an extended period, most notably during the 1776 retreat through New Jersey (and for

some months following), the autumn 1777 Philadelphia campaign, and the first months at Valley

Forge. Be that as it may, commanders, from the lowest to the highest, knew the positive moral

effect well–made and properly cared–for clothing had on both wearers and observers, and tried to

provide materials and time to allow the men to properly maintain their apparel. In May 1777

Gen. George Washington directed Maryland Brig. Gen. William Smallwood "as far as in your

power lies, [to] cause the Men to appear Neat, Clean, and Soldier–like, not only for the sake of

appearances, but for the Benefit of their Health."1 This view was reiterated in 27 August 1782

Continental Army orders:

To keep the Cloathing in the best possible order has become an object of so much attention that

the general thinks it almost superfluous to repeat his recommendations especially as it is now

universally considered that not only the comfort and convenience but even the reputation of a

corps depends essentially upon keeping every article belonging to the soldiers in the most perfect

state both for service and appearance.2

American commanders tried to supply their troops with materials to mend their own clothing.

In July 1779 Brig. Gen. Anthony Wayne submitted a "Plan for the Cloathing of the [light]

Infantry," which included under a soldier's necessaries, "Six needles," "Two Oz. Blue Thread,"

and "Two Oz. White" thread, all "Enclosed in a Leather case."3 While such proposals often went

unfulfilled, in this instance the commander in chief did his best to supply Wayne's light troops.

General Washington to Wayne, 5 July 1779:

... I agree perfectly with you as to the importance of dress and it is my intention that the [Light]

Infantry shall have a pretty full supply... I shall direct the Clothier to endeavour to complete you

to a hat or cap, one Blanket, two shirts, one pr. of overalls and one pr. of Shoes pr man and a

small quantity of thread and needles. More than this can not be afforded.4

As picked troops the light infantry could perhaps expect better supplies than line battalions,

particularly under a determined commander like General Wayne; while Washington balked at

such special treatment, it is still likely the army's other soldiers did not receive the government–

issued needles and thread at this time. Thread had been given the regiments three months earlier,

as indicated by 17 April 1779 general orders:

The regimental Clothiers are to apply to the Clothier General or his Assistant in camp for thread,

and the commanding officers of regiments will see that their mens clothes are repaired without

loss of time.5

2

Soldiers not only repaired their own clothing, but sometimes had the time, material, and

expertise to make new apparel. Sergeant Jeremiah Greenman noted during an extended New

York stay in mid–July 1777, “Continuing in peekskills... Implying myself in making a coat”; he

wrote between 6–11 March 1778, "Implying my Self in making a westcoat." In 1781, while a

prisoner of the British, Greenman, now a lieutenant, made a quantity of clothing:

T[uesday] 22. [May 1781] ...got a pair of overhalls cut out, then returned to my Quaters &

implyed myself Remainder of the day –

W[ednesday] 23. Implying myself in making my overalls –

T[hursday] 24 and F[riday] 25. ...made a pair of Socks …

T[hursday] 31. ... made a Linning Vest with the assi[s]tance of my Land la[d]y …

F[riday] 8. [June 1781] ...implying myself in making two linning night Caps …6

And then there were common soldiers who did tailoring for their comrades and others able to

pay. Thirty–two–year–old Daniel Allen of Cornwall, Connecticut, joined Capt. Simeon Smith’s

company of Col. Philip Burr Bradley’s Connecticut State Battalion in July 1776. First serving at

Bergen Point and Paulus Hook, New Jersey, Bradley’s regiment likely moved to the vicinity of

Fort Lee in early autumn and later joined the defenders of Fort Washington on Upper Manhattan

Island. Allen left a record of the work he did for others, all likely in the same unit (numerals on

the right denote pounds, shillings, and pence):7

Serjnt Hezekiah ford Dr. ly Sundries 7 Coppes [coppers], to mending your vest and a point of

milk and mending your Shurt Six coprs

John newton Dtr to oltering your Cote Sleeves 0–0–6

James Colman Dtr to oltering your Cote sleves 0–0–4

September

Serjant Seaton Dr. to mending your Cote and Shirt x0–0–6

September

Serjnt. Case [?] Dr. to mending your Stocken x0–0–6

october

4 Serjnt Seaton Dtr to mending your cote breaches and Shirt x 0–0–6

5 to mending your vest x 0–0–2

October 5

[?] Hezekiah Rouland Dtr to mending your trouse[r]s 0–0–4

Samuel Scovel Dtr 5 to mending your trouse[r]s x0–0–4

14

David hamdlintn Dtr to oltering trouse[r]s 0–0–7x

15 Serjnt. Seaton Dtr to Seating your Breeches and mending them 0–0–10x

Joseph Allen Dtr. to mending your trouse[r]s 0–x0–4

tobias walport Dtr. to mending your frock x0–0–2

marten Enos Dtr. to mending your trouse[r]s 0–0–2x

William Pierce Dtr. to cass x 0–0–6

Ebenezer Cralo Dtr. to mending your trouse[r]s 0–0–6x

William Pierce Dtr. to mend your cote & benjmn [Benjamin’s] trouse[r]s 0–0–4

To puting buttens on and [?] benjamons [Pierce?] vest x0–0–4

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Below are several vignettes mentioning or illustrating the activities of soldier–tailors. In

addition, the narrative provides an overview of the recurring difficulties in providing Continental

troops with clothing during a large portion of the war.

“The Tailor” by Bryant White (courtesy of the artist)

(http://www.whitehistoricart.com/bbwhite/pages/TheTailor.htm )

“Have the Clothes made up … employing the Soldiers in that Business …”

Regimental Tailors, 1777–1778

For much of the war clothing was provided on a state by state basis, one region’s troops often

being better clad than regiments from an adjoining area. This was never truer than during the

Valley Forge winter cantonment.

Following the difficult campaign around Philadelphia in autumn 1777, and with the addition

of troops from the Northern army, the matter of clothing vied with lack of food for the

commander–in–chief’s attention. General Washington had to juggle the claims of various states

for apparel to cover their men, with the result that during the ensuing spring and summer of 1778

there was a hodge–podge of clothing seen in his army, some made by soldier–tailors. Virginia is

one case in point.

In February 1777 Richard Peters, Secretary to the Board of War, notified a Congressional

Committee in Philadelphia,

4

The Bearer Ensign Gale [Erasmus Gill] of the second Virginia Regiment attends, with a Party of

soldiers who are Taylors, a Quantity of Cloth brought from Virginia to clothe the Regiment

which is now in Expedition against the Insurgents in this State [Maryland]. It was thought most

adviseable that the Cloth should be made up while the Regiment is on Duty, that on their Return

their Clothes may be ready at Philadelphia ... You will be pleased to give Directions to the

Clothier General [James Mease] or his Agent in Philadelphia to take acct of the Cloth & have the

Clothes made up immediately employing the Soldiers in that Business & as many more Tailors as

are necessary.8

Ten months later the apparel situation was again near the starting point, Washington writing

Gov. Patrick Henry, from “Head Quarters, White Marsh, December 10, 1777,”

I am pleased to hear of the Arrival of Cloathing in Virginia, which tho' not very great will be very

acceptable, as far as it will go. I beg that whatever you can spare may be immediately sent

forward to the Head Quarters of the Army, where ever that may be, and I have no doubt but we

can get the Cloaths more readily made up by the Taylors of the Army, than you can in the

Country. I observe that there is a small Supply of Cloth, Suitable for the Officers. I should be

extremely glad if that could be sent up for the use of those who remain in the Field and not

delivered out to those, who under various pretences will find means to winter at home. I hope the

Gentlemen, who are appointed in your State to make a Collection of Cloathing for your Troops

will exert themselves; for altho' large quantities are ordered from Europe, the arrival is so

precarious, that we ought by no means to put a dependence upon a Supply thro' that Channel.9

The clothing referred to was sent north “in nine Waggons, for the Virginia Regiments in

continental service.” Governor Henry noted “It is my wish that the Troops of Virginia shall have

them. I also send a List of some other Articles – chiefly Linens, that will shortly set out from our

public store for the same Uses.”10

That the “Necessarys” forwarded to the Virginia units in

December 1777 included clothing is known, but since the list has not been found, numbers and

kinds are uncertain. The Governor also informed Washington,

Added to this Supply [is] 15000 ₤ worth of Woollens &c proper for the Soldiers [which] will set

out from Petersburgh in a few Days. These last are procured under an Act of Assembly

empowering me to seize Necessarys for our Troops wherever they may be found. I have given

Orders in Consequence to proper Persons in different Parts of this State, which I expect will

Produce many Necessarys if not enough for the Virginia Troops. Orders are sent to both

Carolinas for Blankets particularly & Soldiers clothes & nothing possible for me to effect will be

left undone in getting whatever the Troops are in Want of.11

Given that large quantities of wool and linen was being forwarded to the army by a number of

states, at the beginning of the new year General Washington decided to ascertain how many

skilled tailors were under his command:

… The Commanding Officer of each Regiment is to give in a Return at orderly time tomorrow of

the number of Tailors in the Regiment he commands; and no new Cloathing to be made for the

use of any Regiment but by a pattern which will be furnished them.12

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The resulting return lists numbers of tailors in the brigades at Valley Forge, 10 January 1778:

Return of the Tailors in the Brigades

13

Genl. Muhlenbergs [Virginia] 27 Genl. Learned’s [Massachusetts] 7

Weedon’s [Virginia] 23 Patterson’s [Connecticut] 10

Woodford’s [Virginia] 19 Varnum’s [Rhode Island & Ct.] 12 & 2 Serjts.

Scott’s [Virginia] 17 Huntington’s [Connecticut] 13

1st Pennsylvania 17 No. Carolina 17

2d. Ditto 10 Artillery Brigade 6

Maxwell’s [New Jersey] 12 65

Conway’s [Pennsylvania] 11 152

Poor’s [Massachusetts] 6 Total 219

Glover’s [Massachusetts] 10

152

While the tailors were being tabulated, on January 2d the commander–in–chief wrote the

Board of War then sitting at York or Lancaster,

It would be a happy circumstance, if the Cloathing from Virginia was made up, that it might be

delivered to the Troops from thence. I believe there will be little, nay none for any other part of

the Army, after they are supplied … And I am satisfied, should any of it be appropriated to the

use of others and their own troops want, there will be disgust and dissatisfaction. From the

Letters I have received upon the Subject, it is particularly mentioned that the supplies which the

states procures, are intended for their own Men and this is agreeable to the Idea entertain'd by the

other States. The Connecticut Troops now here, have received from thence more necessaries of

an essential nature than their present wants require and these are kept for their future demands. ...

Whether the Men from the Eastward, drafted for a short term of Service, have received Cloathing

is a matter I am not able to determine. I do not apprehend that they have drawn much since they

joined this Army; Because the supplies in the Cloathier's hands would not admit of it ... The

Army being much reduced by Sickness, by the expiration of the time of service of Several of the

Troops, by Detachments and other Causes, I cannot think it safe to weaken it more, and therefore

cannot comply with the requisition for sending Taylors to Lancaster. However, that the Supplies

of Cloathing may be forwarded, I have directed a return to be made of all the Taylors and they

will be set to Work either in Camp or at some place Contiguous to it, as soon as Cloth and other

materials arrive.14

On 21 January Washington chided Clothier General Mease for allowing cloth to be cut before

a standard pattern was disseminated,

I this day received yours of the 18th. [January] by Lieutt. [Robert] Gamble [12th Virginia Regiment]

who has brought down 463 Coats ready cut out. I could have wished that had not been done, as I

intended to have had them made up in a new fashion which I think will save Cloth, be made up

quicker and cheaper and yet be more warm and convenient to the Soldier. I desire that all the

remainder of the Virginia Goods may be immediately sent on in the State which you receive them, as

soon as they arrive at Lancaster. I will send you a Coat of the new fashion as soon as one can be

made up, and I think it will be deemed most convenient and useful to dress the whole Army in the

same manner.

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The Officer who had the charge of the Convoy of Cloathing from Boston left them at Fishkill,

contrary to Genl. Heath's express order, he makes some trifling excuse, that the Waggons would not

come any farther. I have sent up an Express with orders to have it brought immediately forward.

I shall give directions to have some agreement made with the Taylors for their extra pay when

working at their trade. Now we are fixed, I am of opinion that we can have any quantity of Cloathing

made up in the Regiments provided all the materials are sent with them. If the Taylors are drawn

from the Army and sent to a distance, they will most certainly find means of going off, and the

Service will lose so many men. Besides we cannot at this time spare the Men from Camp …

P.S. Lieutt. Gamble returns to bring down the remainder of the Goods. He informs me that he

desired you not to cut up the Cloth, as it was intended to be made up different from the usual method,

I cannot therefore tell why it was done.15

Three days later, still considering proper apparel, the commander–in–chief informed

Connecticut Gov. Jonathan Trumbull of the suggested soldiers’ coat pattern, and again

mentioned the clothing being assembled in camp:

Sir: I am honoured with yours of the 14th [January] instant and am much obliged for your

promised attention to the compleating of your Regiments, and I hope your exertions will be

attended with the desired success. I am also to thank you for your care in providing Cloathing

for your Troops. If the Coats should not be cut out before this reaches you, instead of the usual

Regimental Coat, I would recommend a garment of the pattern of the Sailors Sea Jacket, this sets

close to the body and by buttoning double over the breast, adds much to the Warmth of the

Soldier. There may be a small cape [i.e., collar] and cuff of a different colour to distinguish the

Corps. I have consulted most of the Officers of the Army and they all seem to think that this

kind of Coat will be much the best, at least till we can fall upon means of procuring full supplies

of compleat Uniforms. As the Overall is much preferable to Breeches, I would recommend as

many of them as possible. We cannot spare Taylors to go from hence, therefore if you cannot get

all the Clothes readily made up, I think you had better send part of the Cloth here with all kinds

of necessary trimmings and the Regimental Taylors will soon make them up under the inspection

of their Officers.16

As for the goods shipped from Virginia, Assistant Clothier General Charles Young notified

headquarters,

Lancaster 14

th. January 1778.

Sir Mr. Mease being much Indisposed, has directed me to acquaint your Excellency of the

Arrival of a quantity of Linens, Clothes &c. from Virginia at this place. They were long detain’d

at the Susquehannah & with much risqué and difficulty was brought over on Sleds, Thursday

last. The chief of the goods from which in unloading, were greatly injur’d by being wet. Indeed

their situation is beyond description, bad, the Linens particularly were all under water, and many

of the Woolens and before their getting to Lancaster were so frozen that to this time we are not

enabled with safety to do any thing with them, as by the least Opening or removal they crack like

burnt paper, we are preparing a large building with a Stove to receive them this day, & Mr.

Mease would be happy to know your pleasure respecting the piece goods, as he Conceives it

cannot be Eligible to send to Camp such a quantity of Linens and Cloths that might so soon be

manufactur’d here, when their situation will admit; the Blanketts, Shoes, and Hosiery, would

have been sent on before, but could not procure Teams, are promised them Monday next, when

they will be sent together with some Shirts, &c. … 17

7

Putting the best face on the unfortunate news, the General decided upon different courses for

the officers’ apparel, and those piece goods destined for the common soldiers. He wrote Mease

on 27 January,

I last night received Mr. Young's letter of the 24th, informing me of the unlucky accident that had

befallen the Virginia Cloathing. I have consulted the Brigadiers what is best to be done in their

present situation, and they think that the Cloths and Linens proper for the Officers should be

dried as quick as possible and sent here to be made up. The coarse Cloths and Linens proper for

Soldiers, to be made up agreeable to directions given by [Brig.] Genl. [Charles] Scott to Lieutt.

Gamble, who will remain at Lancaster and receive the Cloathing as it is made up and forward it

to Camp. All the Stockings, Shoes, Hats and ready made Shirts to be sent off immediately, if not

already done, Thread and Trimmings to be sent with the fine Cloth and linen.18

In either case, the army’s tailors had work to do, in camp and out. General orders at Valley

Forge, 23 February 1778 told of doling out available clothing supplies:

Brigadiers and Officers Commanding Brigades to meet tomorrow morning ten O'Clock at

General Sullivan's quarters to make a just distribution of the cloathing in the Cloathier General's

department now in Camp and near at hand on it's way to it, in proportion to the real necessities of

the men, in order to which the Commanding officers of Regiments and Corps are to make an

exact return of the wants of their men to their respective Brigadiers and officers Commanding

Brigades before the time prescribed for their meeting. The board in their distribution are to have

particular regard to the Artillery and other Corps not attach'd to any particular State having

consequently no chance of other supplies, and are to make them an allowance accordingly. The

Officer commanding Morgan's Light Corps will furnish the board with a return of the wants of

the men under his command regimentally digested, for which they are to make as generous and

effectual proportion as circumstances will permit.19

And so, eventually, the newly–made clothing made it made its way to the soldiers.

Although not pertaining to soldier–tailors, the following refers to the sewing of men versus

women, and confirm the use of females in equipment manufacture. Writing to Quartermaster

General to Nathanael Greene, on 30 May 1778, from Reading, Pa., Deputy Q.M. Gen. James

Abeel noted that D.Q.M. John Mitchell sent duck for knapsacks, but his distaff workers needed

sailmaker's palms since they "do not sew with so Stiff a Needle as a man."20

In April 1782

Quartermaster General Timothy Pickering to an assistant,

Desire Mr. [Mery?] to examine the bolts of oznaburghs which came from Virginia, and pick out

those fittest for knapsacks, & get as many made as he can: If he would cut out one of a proper

shape, he could get some careful woman to cut out the residue, & employ other women to make

them up.21

It is certainly possible that seamstresses were sometimes employed in making up soldiers’

clothing on contract

At year’s end Colonel Moses Hazen wrote General Washington after his 2nd Canadian

Regiment received their portion of a shipment of imported French clothing, once again

mentioning soldier–made apparel:

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...as I wish to Take every Measure and all Possible care in preserving the uniform Cloathing, I

would beg to propose a linen Coat, or hunting shirt, and some overalls for the Spring – That the

uniform Cloathing may be Pack'd up and Laid by During the hot weather in Summer and for this

purpose I would beg your Excellency will please to order a sufficient Quantity of Coarse Linen

from [the] Public Store at Boston to be made up by our own Taylors in Camp During the

winter.22

“The coats were good enough for soldiers without lining …”

New Jersey and Pennsylvania Tailors, 1779–1780

On 27 June 1779 Continental Army orders published the “Ordinance for regulating the

Clothing Department for the Armies of the United States,” which included the stipulation that

“There shall be a clothier general, a sub or State–clothier for each State, and a regimental

clothier.”23

Details of the regimental position were, in part, as follows:

THE REGIMENTAL CLOATHIER

The office of regimental cloathier shall always be executed by the regimental pay master.

He is to be furnished by captains or officers commanding companies with returns, specifying

the men's names and the particular wants of each; these he is to digest into a regimental return

which being signed by the officer commanding the regiment, and countersigned by himself with

a receipt upon it of the supplies delivered to the regiment, is to be lodged with the State cloathier

… He is to keep an account with each officer and soldier for every article delivered, taking a

receipt from them, as his voucher for the delivery: He is to credit them for the continental

allowance, and to charge them for everything they receive, making stoppages in the monthly pay

rolls for whatever they may fall in debt to the public beyond the allowance … And whereas

discretionary changes of the uniforms of regiments have proved inconvenient and expensive: the

Commander in Chief is therefore hereby authorized and directed, according to the circumstances

of supplies of cloathing to fix and prescribe the uniform, as well with regard to the color and

facings, as the cut or fashions of the cloathes to be worn by the troops of the respective States

and regiments, which shall, as far as possible be complied with by all purchasing agents

employed by the Congress, as well as particular States, by the cloathier general, sub or state

cloathiers and regimental cloathiers, and all officers and soldiers in the armies of the United

States.24

And in closing,

… when materials can be purchased instead of ready made cloathes, it shall always be prefered,

in order that they may be made up by the taylors of the several regiments, to save expence and

prevent the disadvantages which the soldiers frequently suffer from their unfitness; and instead

of breeches, woolen overalls for the winter and linen for the summer, are to be substituted.25

Later that same year Lt. Jonathan Peck, 2nd

Jersey Regiment paymaster and clothier, recorded

his first experience with the new system. In a deposition against New Jersey State Clothier Enos

Kelsey, Peck wrote from the "Jersey Camp," 11 April 1780:

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I testify that at Wyoming in the Month of July last [1779] a regular and accurate return of the

regiment, to which I belong, [was made] specifying the quantity of Clothing necessary for the

same, and the quality and color of the cloth, lining and buttons for the Officers, Non

Commissioned officers and privates, respectively. This return was sent to Enos Kelsey Esq., the

State, or Sub–Clothier, the timely receipt of which he has since acknowledged. I was informed

that similar returns were sent from the other regiments at the same time, and that the most earnest

and pressing [exhortations?] were made. both by the Brigadier, and Commandants of Regts. for

an early and ample supply of clothing. In October I was dispatched from Tioga, with orders to

call upon the Clothier, receive the Clothing of the Regt., and forward it to Easton, that it might be

ready for the troops (who were then almost naked) on their return to that place. On my arrival at

Princeton I was assured by Mr. Kelsey, that he had been to Philadelphia and Boston, and that

there were not materials sufficient, in either or both those places, to clothe the Brigade; and that I

could receive nothing at that time, but linen for four shirts, and cambric for an equal number of

stocks, for each officer: the cambric was of an inferior quality and none allowed for ruffling. A

complaint was made by most, or all of the officers, that their patterns of linen were very much

scanted [shorted], and they had not cambric enough, for the number of stocks to which they were

entitled and for which they received it. The troops in general were exceedingly mortified and

disgusted at these instances of neglect, penury and fraud.

Agreeable to Mr. Kelsey's request, the taylors of the regiment were sent to Princeton, to assist

in making the materials which were then on hand and afterwards to be procured. At first, they

began to work, without either lappels or buttons, but were shortly prevented altogether, for want

of thread. On account of the deficiency of this article, they were, at different times idle for many

days together.

Mr. Kelsey [received?] about 150, or 200 uniform coats, which he had caused to be made

without lining, the lappells without button holes, and sewed down to the bodies of the coats; and

at the same time a great variety of waistcoats, and breeches, of all colors and shades, and, in

general, of the worst quality; these too were without lining. All these articles, I positively

refused to receive, as altogether unfit for a soldier's use; alledging at the same time, that I acted

agreeable to my instructions from the Commanding Officer of the regiment: Mr. Kelsey offered

it as his opinion, ”that the coats were good enough for soldiers without lining” and afterwards

obtained an order from the Clothier Genl., which, he said, was sanctioned by the Commander in

Chief, to send these articles to the Brigade – they were lined and sent. About the 8th Jany. they

were delivered to the soldiers, many of whom were by this time, with hunger and cold, reduced

to skeletons; and some of them were so far overcome, that they were unable to try on their

clothes. [The winter of 1779–80 proved the eighteenth century's worst.] Even in this reduced

state of their bodies, most of the waistcoats and breeches were found too small, and many of

them, with Common use, are long since worn out.

Agreeable to my instructions, I directed the taylors to make their coats large and strong: Mr.

Kelsey insisted that they should make a certain number of coats out of a given quantity of cloth,

although the Serjeants, who cut the cloth, declared that it was insufficient for the purpose. By

these means all the coats were scanted, and many of those, that ought to have been of the largest

size, too little for a man of the smallest stature. Besides this, I have undoubted certain

information, that Mr. Kelsey was pleased to make a representation, equally false, and scandalous,

to the Clothier Genl. which reached the ears of the Commander in Chief, that the officers, who

had command of the taylors, were wasting the materials to a very great degree, by directing that

the coats should be made immoderately large, and covered with an unnecessary number of

buttons.

Many of the men have not yet received either waistcoats or breeches, and most of them have

had no hats. With respect to the Officers clothing, I attended Mr. Kelsey on most of his

10

purchases and can declare, that it was with the greatest aparent reluctance, that he was prevailed

with to buy anything of a superfine, or even tolerable quality...

N.B. Capt. Anderson, Paymr. 3d. Regt., was my constant companion through the whole of this

disagreeable business, and if here, I doubt not, would confirm every sentence of my testimony.26

It is notable that the New Jersey regiments, 4th

and 11th

Pennsylvania Regiments (see below),

were all on Major General John Sullivan's 1779 punitive expedition against the Iroquois. Enos

Kelsey testified the Jersey troops were "almost naked" when they returned, and 1st New

Hampshire Regiment soldier Nathan Davis noted that "Marching nearly the whole time in the

woods, among thick underbrush, it may well be supposed that we had but little left of our

clothing, on our return to the garrison ..." It seems all the men on the expedition suffered

similarly, as the following letters indicate.27

Washington to Pennsylvania brigadier general

William Irvine, 23 December 1779:

The state of the 4th. and 11

th. Regiments of Pennsylvania in respect to Cloathing is represented to

me as being so deplorable, that I must request you to endeavour to accommodate them

immediately with the ready made Cloathing that came from Philada. or at least as much of it as

will cover those who are naked; this will make no odds in the end, and I doubt not but the

Officers of those Regiments will cheerfully lend their Taylors to assist in making up the

Cloathing for the others. There seems an absolute necessity for measures of this kind, as I am

informed that every day takes down more or less of the Men.28

Erkuries Beatty, 4th

Pennsylvania Regiment, camp near Morristown, N.J., 25 January 1780:

... when we join'd the Army I found I had to do the Duty of Regiment[al] Clothier to[o], which is

the Cause of all my trouble, for I have lately drew Cloathing for the Regt. & it is almost all to

make up from the Cloth all which I must oversee, which keeps me very Close confined – If you

was just now to step into my Hutt (which is only a very small Room if it ever got finished) I will

tell you just how you would find me... You'll find me sitting on a Chest, in the Center of Six or

Eight Taylors, with my Book Pen & Ink on one side and the Buttons and thread on the other –

the Taylors yo'll find some A Cutting out, others sewing, outside of the taylors you will see

maybe half Dozen Men naked as Lazarus, begging for Cloathing, and about the Room you will

see nothing but Cloth & Cloathing, on the floor you'll find it about knee deep with Snips of Cloth

& Dirt – If you stay any time you'll hear every Minute knock–knock at the door & I calling walk

in, others going out, which makes a Continual Bussle – presently I begin to swear, sometimes

have to jump up blundering over two or three taylors to whip somebody out of the house –

othertimes Tudor and my Mess Mates they begin to swear, & with our Swearing, and the taylors

singing (as you know they must), and the Men a grumbling ... makes pretty Music for your Ear,

and thats the way from morning to night, & from Weeks End to weeks end, & I am sure I need

not complain for want of Company...29

11

Erkuries Beatty, January 1780: “You'll find me sitting on a Chest, in the Center of Six or Eight

Taylors … the Taylors yo'll find some A Cutting out, others sewing …” This civilian image evokes

Beatty’s description of his hut at Morristown, New Jersey.

“Interior of a tailor’s shop,” anonymous, 1767-1800 (item 001038), Museum of London.

The Pennsylvania tailors found more work later the same year. Resigned to the failure of a

promised supply of clothing for the Pennsylvania regiments, in mid–October 1780 Brig. Gen.

Anthony Wayne was

therefore induced to call upon the Honourable Council to adopt some move to procure a fresh

supply of Blankets, & winter Clothing, for the Officers & privates belonging to the State of

Pennsa. The weather begins to pinch – hard necessity obliges us to be economists – our Soldiers

uniforms are much worn & out of repair, we have adopted the idea of Curtailing [i.e. shortening]

the Coats to repair the Elbows & other defective parts for which we shall Immediately want

needles and thread, will your Excellency be as Obliging as to Direct them to be procured & sent

to Camp with the other Stores, with all possible Dispatch, & appoint Lieut. Dungin of the 6th

Regt or Mr. Little [as] State Clothier in place of the Gentleman lately dismissed the Service by

the sentence of a Genl. Court Martial.30

12

Five days later Wayne wrote again,

I must beg leave to reiterate my request [for needles and thread], & desire that they may be sent

on with all possible dispatch, as every day adds to our distress, & renders an Immediate supply of

these articles Indispensably necessary. I believe no Army before this was ever put to such shifts,

in order to have even the appearance of uniformity – when the Charge of the Pennsa Division

devolved on me, after the removal of Genl. St. Clair to the command of the left wing, I thought of

an expedient of reducing the heterogenious of new, old, cock’d & flopped hats & pieces of hats,

to [light] Infantry Caps, in which we succeded very well – by making three decent caps out of

one tolerable & two very ordinary hats, to which we added, as an embellishment, a white plume

& a Comb of flowing red hair. We now shall try the experiment of making three short Coats out

of three old tattered long ones. I must acknowledge they would answer much better for the

Spring than fall; but without something done in this way, we shall be naked in the course of two

or three weeks; – nor will even this expedient answer longer than Christmas.31

On a side note, the aforementioned hats had been transformed into caps three months previous,

in August 1780, and the practice of “Curtailing” coats was not uncommon. Only six months later

the provisional light infantry battalions serving under the Marquis de Lafayette in Virginia “were

ordered to cut their coats short for their greater ease in marches,” the “weather being exceeding

warm.”32

“Four Chests wth

Taylors Tools”

Massachusetts Soldier–Tailors, 1780–1782

Late in 1779 the need for new clothing was again beginning to be felt, as evidenced in this

letter from General Washington to the Board of War, “Head Quarters, West point, November 23,

1779 … when the Army is settled in quarters I will call for a Return of the Shoemakers and

Taylors Tools in the hands of the Cloathier General and will distribute them among the

Brigades.”33

Four days later Clothier General James Wilkinson was similarly informed,

After the several orders which have been drawn upon you are complied with, you will please to

make return of every article in your Store at Newburg, and on the first day of every month,

afterwards of all the clothing of every kind in your different Stores with a general account of your

issues and receipts during the preceding month. You will also be pleased to render me, as soon as

may be, a particular return of the shoemakers and taylors tools on hand or in store.34

No call for an inventory of Continental Army tailors’ equipment is known to have been issued

prior to this, perhaps indicative of a new determination to handle clothing construction in as

businesslike manner as possible. In any case, the result tells us what were considered the

necessary tools of the trade.

13

“A Taylor.” This humorous (and slightly ribald) image pictures a tailor’s tools in some detail: (1)

thimble, (3) measures, (4) “Cuckold for Thread,” (5) needle book, (6) bodkin, (7) wax, (8) “Cutting

Board with Forebody,” (9) “Sleave Board,” (10) needle, (11) yard, (12) shears, (13) notch board,

(14) lap board, (15) goose. © Trustees of the British Museum

Wilkinson was instructed further regarding clothing issue and manufacture on 6 December,

just as the army was entering winter camp near Morristown, New Jersey:

Sir: The Army having taken its position for the Winter in the Vicinity of this place you will

repair hither as expeditiously as possible to take charge of and issue the Cloathing which has

been stopped here. The four Massachusetts Brigades at West Point and the New Hampshire

Brigade at Danbury having recd. their proportion of the Cloathing at Newberg you are to apply to

14

the Quarter Master for the means of transporting the remainder to this place for the troops who

have not been served … There are a parcel of Shoemakers and Taylors tools in the store; you will

leave a proportion for the troops above, and bring the remainder forward.

You will undoubtedly take measures for having a proportion of shoes and what continental

Cloathing may hereafter come in, delivered to the Cloathiers of the Massachusetts and New

Hampshire, and the Artillery remaining at West Point, and Dragoons in Connecticut.35

According to this letter, the Massachusetts troops were early supplied with apparel. Still there

must have been some shortfalls, and given the commander–in–chief’s exhortations, and in light

of the early onset of the cold season, Wilkinson seems to have dithered in his response. In the

event, one sizeable contingent of tailors’ tools was not issued to Bay State units until mid–spring

1780. An invoice from the records of the Massachusetts Board of War, headed “Fish Kill

Landing May 10, 1780 Received of James Wilkinson Esqr Clothier Gen

l,” lists,

Four Chests wth Taylors Tools N

o 7,8,13,17

36

Containing as pr. Invoice each

1 Bodkin 100 Needles

3 Lb Thread ¼ lb. Beeswax

2 pair Shears 1 goose

2 knives 1 sleeve Board

6 thimbles 1 lap Board

Tailor’s shears (circa 1770, manufacturer’s mark “Gambia”)

Collection of Neal T. Hurst.

As of yet, no other such inventories have been found, but the belongings of one soldier–tailor

were recorded after his death, giving us a nice comparison. Private Frederick Oblieskie served at

West Point in 1780 with Capt. Elias Parkman’s company of Col. Ebenezer Thayer’s

Massachusetts militia regiment. Oblieskie died on 27 August 1780, and among the goods he left

behind were “Tailors Tools 1 pr. Large Shears, 1 pr. Sizers [scissors], 1 Thimble, Bobken

& Dividers, 1 penknife, 1 comb, 1 Bowl, 1 pencel, Book, 1 paper, case and one knapsack …”37

15

Late though the distribution of tools was for soldiers during the 1780 “Hard Winter,” they

would surely have been put to good use in the next cold season. In a circular letter sent to

Connecticut, Massachusetts, New Hampshire, New Jersey, New York, Pennsylvania, and Rhode

Island in early November 1780, the General Washington noted,

From a collective view of the State of our Cloathing, I find we have not more, in the Public Magazines, than

will be sufficient for one half of the men inlisted for the War, or whose term of service will extend beyond

the winter. To depend, any longer, upon the supply expected from Europe arriving in time to relieve the

wants of the troops, will be leaving the matter upon too precarious a footing. I have therefore thought it a

duty incumbent upon me, to give you this information, that you may endeavour to procure and send forward

the Articles most essential to the convenience and comfort of the Men. I should have done it sooner, but I

still flattered myself with an ample supply from abroad. The Articles most wanted will be Blankets,

Waistcoats, Woolen Overalls, and Stockings; The greater part of the men have Coats that may enable them,

with warm under Cloaths, to rub thro' the severity of Winter. I would recommend that the Cloth, with

thread, buttons &c. be sent to the Army in the piece; it may be made up there agreable to the wants of the

Men, and quicker than at home, as there are Taylors sufficient in every Corps.38

On 20 November headquarters wrote Maj. Gen. John Sullivan, referring to present conditions

and problems experienced in the years previous. The commander–in–chief’s anger and

frustration is readily apparent in this letter:

It is to be lamented that the call upon the States for specific Supplies should come at this late

hour … Many instances might be given in proof, but I will confine myself to the article of

Cloathing as we are feelingly reminded of it.

This, instead of being ready in the Fall for delivery, is then to be provided, or to be drawn from

the Lord knows whither; and after forcing many Soldiers from the field for want of it, is eked out

at different periods as it can be had through the winter, till Spring; and in such a piece–meal way,

that the Soldr. derivg. little comfort from it is hurt both in appearance and pride while the

recruiting Service is Greatly injured by it. Was this the result of necessity, not a word would be

said; but it is the effect of a dividd. attentn. or over much business for at the period of the

extreme suffering of the Army, we can hear of Cloathing in different places falling a prey to

moth, and cankerworms of a worse kind; and I am much mistaken too, if the Cloathing System (if

ours can be called a System) does not afford a fruitful field for stock–jobbing &ca. … At present

we do not know where, or to whom to apply. I have made the distresses of the Army known to

Congress, the Board of War and the States Individually without learning from whence the

supplies are to come and can without the aid of a perspective see a very gloomy prospect before

us this Winter on the Score of Cloathing.

I have two reasons for prefering the Materials for Cloathing to ready made Cloaths; first

because I think we can have them made by the Regimental Taylors to fit each Man, and to suit

the fashion of each Regiment. And secondly because the Materials will always be a more ready

Sale if Peace takes place and the Troops are disbanded than ready made Cloaths, they wd. attract

less notice too at the places of Export. Another question may arise here; where are the means?

Means must be found or the Soldiers go naked: but I will take the liberty in this place to give it as

my opinion that a foreign loan is indispensably necessary to the continuance of the War.

Congress will deceive themselves if they imagine that the Army, or a State that is the theatre of

War can rub through a second Campaign as the last. It would be as unreasonable as to suppose

that because a man had rolled a Snow–ball 'till it had acquired the size of a horse that he might do

so till it was as large as a House. Matters may be pushed to a certain point, beyond which we

cannot move them. Ten Months pay is now due to the Army. Every departmt. of it is so much

16

indebted that we have not credit for a single Express; and some of the States are harrassed and

oppressed to a degree beyond bearing. To depend, under these circumstances, upon the resources

of the Country, unassisted by foreign loans will I am confident, be to lean on a broken Reed.39

Here we see the preference for tailors fabricating the regimental clothing from piece goods,

and several reasons why that practice was preferred. In light of Washington’s sentiments, it is

pertinent to note that among the reasons given for the mutinies of the Pennsylvania and New

Jersey troops in January 1781 were poor and insufficient clothing issues.

In December 1781, after the capture of Maj. Gen. Charles Earl Cornwallis’s army at

Yorktown, tailors were once again called upon to clothe the troops, but this time civilians were

also called into play.

Headquarters Highlands Dec

r 17

th 1781

The General is happy in having received by yesterdays post instructions for a General Issue of

Cloathing … A general distribution of Cloathing will take place immediately after the returns are

collected which will be adequate to the wants of every Soldier.

As not only Taylors of the Regiments but such as can be procured from the Countrey are to be

employed in making up the Cloathing with all possible dispatch. If any of the Regiments have not

furnished their Work shops they are to be completed immediately.

Headquarters Highlands Decr 26 1781

… All Taylors belonging to the Line to be employed in making up the Clathing now Issuing to

the Troops shall receive six shillings Pennsylvania money or Currency for every Suit they make

up Consisting of a Coat, one Woolen Vest, one pair of Woolen Overalls & one pair of Breeches

Commanding Officers of every Regiment is at liberty to call in a person of Confidence to cut

out the Cloath to the best advantage and to Supperintend the Workmen, who will be allowed

thirty Shillings Pennsylvania Currency pr Week and subsistence allowing the time [they] are

imployed. One half of the money to be paid down when the Cloathes are finished and the

remainder on the 1st day of May next …

Head Quarters Highlands, Jany 12

th 1782

Returns of the number of Taylors in each Regiment to be given to the Depy Adj

t General on

Monday next

The Regimental Cloathiers will call on the Assistant Clothier Genl for 10 lb of Candles each

for use of the Taylors … The General hopes the encouragement offered to Country Taylors by

the Assistant C.Genl in his advertisement of the 10

th instant may induce them to engage & that

the Cloathing will be made up with dispatch.

At the Troops are now fitting on their New Cloathing or a part of it – the General Requests the

officers of all Rank to injoine on the Soldiers the Greatest preservation of them. And that both

their Cloathes and Quarters to be Constantly kept as neat and clean as possible

Head Quarters Highlands, Jany 20

h 1782

As the Taylors must be most diligently imployed early and late in making up the Cloathing.

The Genl thinks proper to allow those belonging to the Regiments who are Taylors by profession

as well as those from the Country – One Ration and an half of provision pr day while imployd in

making up the public Cloathing – such as are imployed under the direction of the Commanders of

Regiments to draw on the returns and orders of the Commanders … such as are immediately

imployed under the directions of the Assistant Clathier General on returns and Orders Signed by

him.40

17

Early in January Maj. Gen. William Heath was told that Secretary at War Benjamin Lincoln

“has particularly instructed him [the Clothier General] to spare no pains nor reasonable cost in

procuring Country Taylors to assist in making up the Uniforms.” On 22 January, after receiving a

missive from Heath, General Washington replied, “I am pleased that the Making of the Cloathing

goes on so well. I should not think it would be improper to let the Country Taylors take the

Articles to their Homes to make, under such restrictions as will prevent their embezzlement or

loss to the Public.”41

Regimental orders of 6 March 1782 for the 6th Massachusetts laid out “Stepalated Prices for

taylors Shoemakers barbers and Washweomen,“ including,

Taylors Work [shillings] 42

{making a uniform coat 5/

officers { Do Vest 2/

clothing{ Do Breeches 2/

In the end, the Massachusetts men were largely clad in captured British regimentals (dyed

brown), and breeches, regarding which Assistant Clothier General David Brooks informed the

commander–in–chief on April 1st,

Sir I am very sorry to trouble your Excellency immediately upon your Arrival; – but some

Matters of considerable Import to the Army and ourselves, that we have not been able to get

determin’d hitherto, induces me to lay them this early before your Excellency that they may be

decided upon as soon as possible.

The first & most considerable object is the Clothing furnished by the State of Massachusetts –

which we have not yet been bale to get into our possession. This had added considerably to the

Embarrassments we laboured under in clothing the Army in this Quarter, – As it remained

uncertain whether the General Court of Massachusetts would comply with the Resolution of

Congress; – so we were at a loss whether to reckon the whole of that Clothing in their Quota or

none of it. We proceeded however to make an equal distribution of the Clothing in store, except

the blue Cloth for Coats; – of this we had not a sufficiency to compleat the Connecticut Line:

Therefore we conceived it consistent with the strictest principles of justice to Complete the

Connecticut Line who had no resources in their Hands; – and let the Deficiency fall upon the

Massachusetts Line whose state Clothier [Maj. Ezra Lunt] had 2000 suits of uniform besides a

considerable quantity of other Clothing in his possession.

The N. Hampshire, N. York & N. Jersey Lines & the 10th Massachusetts & Invalid Regiments

are compleatly clothed with the British (dyed) Coats, which we have the pleasure of informing your

Excellency are of very good quality & have no received the least injury in colouring. As some of the

troops refused taking the British Coats on account of their Colour & Others (though without Reason

as time will demonstrate) raisd a Report that they Were rotted in dying – we agreed, previous to the

delivery that the British Hats & Breeches should go with the Coats, as a compensation for the real

& imaginary defect in Colour and quality. These Hats will about suffice those Lines, & for what the

Breeches fell short we have delivered Cloth & Materials to compleat them to a pair per man so that

the Lines and Regts. above mentioned are supplied with a Coat, Vest, Overalls, Breeches, two pair

of Hose, hat, One shirt, and as many shoes as their Necessities from time to time required; – The

Connecticut Line have received equal with the above except the Hats, Breeches & one pair of hose;

– And the Massachusetts Line have received equal with the Connecticut except in the Article of

Coats, of which they have received about 260 per Regiment. What they are lacking must be

18

supplied out of the 2000 Coats at present in the hands of their state Clothier at Fishkill Landing.

The Materials delivered to the Regiments being almost all made up, we are ready to deliver the

Cloth for Breeches to the Massachusetts & Connecticut Lines; – but as we shall not have a

sufficiency without including the 2000 pairs in the state Clothier’s hands, – & as I understand those

Breeches are Buff–coloured It is Necessary to know what Troops or Regiments shall have them,

before we can deliver the Cloth we have in store: This we would wish to be done immediately Least

the Workmen [i.e., tailors] be out of Business.

Some time ago the state Clothier for Massachusetts undertook to distribute the Clothing in his

hands & three of the Regiments received their Quotas; – but the Secretary at War arriving the same

day at General Heath’s put a stop to his proceeding, – & I believe the regts. Have distributed but a

few of the Articles.43

Still, apparel manufacture and issuance of finished items for the Bay State troops continued.

Army orders for 10 April stipulated,

The regimental Pay Masters of the Massachusetts Line will apply immediately to Mr. Lunt their

State Clothier for as many Uniform Coats as will complete the respective Regiments; and put

them into the hands of the regimental and other Taylors employed by the public, that they may be

fitted to the men without loss of time.

The Commanding officers of Regiments in the Massachusetts Line will be pleased to

determine by Lott or otherwise which four Regiments shall be compleated with Breeches from

the Supply in the hands of their State Clothier, The pay masters of the Regiments to whose lott

they fall will apply and receive them with their Coats; The remaining regiments and the

Connecticut Line will make application to the assistant Clothier General for the Cloth and

Trimmings for their Breeches.44

Here is one last mention of the craftsmen tasked with cutting and assembling soldiers’ coats,

waistcoats, and breeches: George Washington to army contractors Comfort Sands & Company,

Head Quarters, May 4, 1782.

Sir: You will be pleased to issue provision to the Taylors employed in making Clothing for the

Army, upon Provision Returns signed by the Assistant Clothier General, specifying the person to

whom, the Number of Rations, and the Number of Garments to be made by the person in whose

favour the Order is drawn. This order to continue in force only until application can be made to

and directions received from the Secry at War. I am etc.45

It is to be hoped the tailors, soldier and civilian, received both funds and food to fuel their work

clothing the army.

19

A Continental light infantry sergeant of the New York or New Jersey line, 1782, wearing a

captured British regimental coat dyed brown. Tailors removed the linings, buttons, and facings,

sewing them back on the coats following the dying process. Artwork by Don Troiani (courtesy of

the artist). Don Troiani and James Kochan, Soldiers of the American Revolution (Mechanicsburg,

Pa.: Stackpole Books, 2007), 179. ( http://www.historicalartprints.com/ )

20

Acknowledgements

My thanks to Henry Cooke for the wonderful information on Massachusetts clothing and

soldier–tailors, as well as the two inventories of tailors’ tools, and to Neal Hurst and Paul Pace

for their help and advice.

Endnotes

See also, Erna Risch, Supplying Washington’s Army (Washington: Government Printing Office, 1981),

“Organization of the Clothing Department,” 259–281; “Clothing the Troops,” 282–309.

1. George Washington to William Smallwood, 26 May 1777, John C. Fitzpatrick, ed., The Writings of

George Washington from the Original Manuscript Sources 1745–1799, 8 (Washington: Government

Printing Office, 1933), 128–129.

2. General orders, 27 August 1782, ibid., (1938), 70.

3. "Plan for the Cloathing of the Infantry," 1779, George Washington Papers, Presidential Papers

Microfilm (Washington: Library of Congress, 1961), series 4 (General Correspondence. 1697–1799), reel

63.

4. Washington to Anthony Wayne, 5 July 1779, Fitzpatrick, Writings of George Washington, 15 (1936),

372–373.

5. General orders, 17 April 1779, ibid., 14 (1936), 400–401.

6. Robert C. Bray and Paul E. Bushnell, eds., Diary of a Common Soldier in the American Revolution: An

Annotated Edition of the Military Journal of Jeremiah Greenman (DeKalb, Il.: Northern Illinois

University Press, 1978), 76, 112, 209–210.

7. Daniel Allen’s diary, Edward C. Starr, A History of Cornwall, Connecticut: A Typical New England

Town (New Haven: The Tuttle, Morehouse & Taylor Co., 1926), 252–254.

8. Richard Peters to a Committee of Congress, 10 February 1777, The Papers of the Continental

Congress 1774–1789, Record Group 360 (National Archives Microfilm Publication M247, vol. 1, folio

74, item 147). My thanks to Todd Post for this information.

9. Washington to Patrick Henry, 10 December 1777, Fitzpatrick, Writings of George Washington, 10

(1933), 145–146.

10. Patrick Henry to Washington, 6 December 1777, George Washington Papers, series 4, reel 45.

11. Ibid.

12. General orders, 1 January 1778, Fitzpatrick, Writings of George Washington, 10 (1933), 242.

13. Timothy Pickering, “Return of the Tailors in the Brigades,” 10 January 1778, George Washington

Papers, series 4, reel 46.

14. Washington to the Board of War, 2 January 1778, Fitzpatrick, Writings of George Washington, 10

(1933), 250–253.

15. Washington to James Mease, 21 January 1778, ibid., 330–331.

16. Washington to Jonathan Trumbull, 24 January 1778, ibid., 344–345.

17. Charles Young to Washington, 24 January 1778, George Washington Papers, series 4, reel 46.

18. Washington to James Mease, 27 January 1778, Fitzpatrick, Writings of George Washington, 10 (1933),

358.

19. General orders, 23 February 1778, ibid., 11 (1934), 501–502.

20. Richard K. Showman, ed., The Papers of General Nathanael Greene, II (Chapel Hill.: University of

North Carolina Press, 1980), 417.

21. Timothy Pickering to Peter Anspach, 23 April 1782, Miscellaneous Numbered Records (The

Manuscript File) in the War Department Collection of Revolutionary War Records 1775–1790's,

National Archives Microfilm Publication M859 (Washington, D.C., 1971), vol. , reel 87, item no. 25353.

21

22. Moses Hazen to George Washington, 24 December 1778, George Washington Papers, series 4, reel

55.

23. General orders, 27 June 1779, Fitzpatrick, Writings of George Washington, 15 (1936), 332.

24. Ibid., 334–335.

25. Ibid., 335. The 27 June 1779 clothing directive is below given in its entirety: General Orders

Head Quarters, New Windsor, Sunday, June 27, 1779.

Parole Halifax. Countersigns Jutland, Kingston.

In Congress, March 23, 1779.

Ordinance for regulating the Clothing Department for the Armies of the United States.

There shall be a clothier general, a sub or State–clothier for each State, and a regimental clothier.

The clothier general is to be subject to the orders of the Board of War and Commander in Chief. He is to furnish

estimates of the supplies wanted for the army; to apply to the Commander in Chief and Board of War for assistance

therein; to make returns of such estimates to them respectively; to receive all supplies imported from abroad, and

purchased in the country by continental agents; to superintend the distribution thereof to the state–cloathiers; to settle

accounts with them at least every six months; to keep regular accounts of all the cloathing he shall receive, as well as

of the distribution thereof among the state cloathiers; and to transmit his accounts twice in every year to the Board of

Treasury, and settle them in the chamber of accounts when required; and generally to take care, on the one hand, that

justice is done to the public, and on the other, that the army receive whatever shall be allowed to them in a regular,

direct, and seasonable manner; and at the same time, so to act between the Continent and each particular State, that

equal and impartial justice may be done on all sides.

THE SUB OR STATE CLOATHIER

A sub or state cloathier is to be appointed by each State respectively, to reside with or near the army, or such

detachment thereof in which the troops of the said State may be, as the Commander in Chief shall direct, the better to

know and supply their wants. The State appointing him is to be answerable for his conduct. In case of neglect or

misbehaviour, he is to be displaced by the Commander in Chief, and his successor to be appointed by the State to

which he belonged. He is to receive from the cloathier general the proportion of cloathing assigned for the troops of

his State, out of the public cloathing imported or purchased by continental agents; and from the State for which he is

appointed, all the cloathing which may, at continental expence, be purchased in such State; of the latter, their quality

and price, he shall transmit exact accounts to the cloathier general, and, when required, submit the several articles to

the inspection of the cloathier general, or any person for that purpose deputed by him; he is to issue all cloathing

supplied as aforesaid to the regimental cloathiers on returns signed by the commanding officers of regiments.

He is to keep exact returns with each regiment, inspect those of the regimental cloathiers, see that the articles

delivered them are duly issued to the troops; and that all the cloathing procured at continental expence, above the

allowance made by Congress, drawn by non–commissioned officers and privates, is charged to them, and credited to

the pay roll; and that the commissioned officers receive what is credited to them and no more. He is to keep exact

accounts with the cloathier general in behalf of the public, charging the United States only with what is allowed to

the officers and men.

Whenever the troops of any State shall have received their proportion of cloathing from the continental stores,

the supplies purchased at continental expence by the State to which they belong, or from both, and there shall remain

a surplus which may be wanted for other troops not fully supplied, the sub– cloathier possessed thereof is to deliver

over the surplus to such other State cloathier as the cloathier general shall direct, taking duplicate invoices and

receipts from the State cloathier to whom they shall be transferred, one set of which he is to deposite with the

cloathier general, and the other to retain as his own voucher: the cloathier general on his part making proper entries

in his accounts, to do justice to all concerned.

When from a deficiency in the public stores, the troops of any State shall not have received their allowance of

cloathing, the State cloathier is without delay to represent their wants, particularly enumerated in a return for that

purpose to the executive authority of the State to which he belongs, requesting a speedy and adequate supply.

And in case a State, at its own expence, shall give and deposit with him any cloathing for the more comfortable

subsistence of it's quota of troops, in addition to the allowance made by Congress, he is strictly to pursue the

directions of such State, as well with respect to the distribution, as the vouchers for the delivery, and the manner and

time of settling his accounts: transmitting once in every six months a copy of such accounts to the cloathier general,

and as often, and whenever required, to the State to which he belongs.

22

THE REGIMENTAL CLOATHIER

The office of regimental cloathier shall always be executed by the regimental pay master.

He is to be furnished by captains or officers commanding companies with returns, specifying the men's names

and the particular wants of each; these he is to digest into a regimental return which being signed by the officer

commanding the regiment, and countersigned by himself with a receipt upon it of the supplies delivered to the

regiment, is to be lodged with the State cloathier, and become to him a voucher for the delivery in his settlement with

the cloathier general.

He is to keep an account with each officer and soldier for every article delivered, taking a receipt from them, as

his voucher for the delivery: He is to credit them for the continental allowance, and to charge them for everything

they receive, making stoppages in the monthly pay rolls for whatever they may fall in debt to the public beyond the

allowance.

And to prevent in future unequal distribution of cloathing, either to the officers or soldiers, and the confusion and

complaints which have been heretofore occasioned by irregular applications from commanding officers of regiments

to public agents in different posts, it is hereby strictly enjoined on those agents, the cloathier general and the sub or

State cloathiers to issue no cloathing on any pretence whatsoever, but in the manner before prescribed: nor shall any

article be credited to either of them on settlement of their accounts, which is not so issued and vouched.

And whereas discretionary changes of the uniforms of regiments have proved inconvenient and expensive: the

Commander in Chief is therefore hereby authorized and directed, according to the circumstances of supplies of

cloathing to fix and prescribe the uniform, as well with regard to the color and facings, as the cut or fashions of the

cloathes to be worn by the troops of the respective States and regiments, which shall, as far as possible be complied

with by all purchasing agents employed by the Congress, as well as particular States, by the cloathier general, sub or

state cloathiers and regimental cloathiers, and all officers and soldiers in the armies of the United States.

And when materials can be purchased instead of ready made cloathes, it shall always be prefered, in order that

they may be made up by the taylors of the several regiments, to save expence and prevent the disadvantages which

the soldiers frequently suffer from their unfitness; and instead of breeches, woolen overalls for the winter and linen

for the summer, are to be substituted.

26. New Jersey State Archives (Trenton), Revolutionary War Manuscripts (Numbered), Military

Records, reel 5807941917, document #5863.

27. Nathan Davis, "History of the Expedition Against the Five Nations, Commanded by General

Sullivan, in 1779," Historical Magazine (April 1868).

28. Washington to William Irvine, 23 December 1779, Fitzpatrick, Writings of George Washington, 17

(1937), 304–305.

29. Joseph M. Beatty, “Letters of the Four Beatty Brothers of the Continental Army, 1774–1794,”

Pennsylvania Magazine of History and Biography, vol. XLIV, no. 3 (1920), 209–210. See also, Judi

Benvenuti and Mary Ann Cataldo, Morristown: The War Years 1775–1783 (Philadelphia, Pa.:

Morristown National Historical Park, 1979), 51.

30. Anthony Wayne to Joseph Reed, president of the Pennsylvania Assembly, dated “Camp at Totowa

17th Octr. 1780,” Pennsylvania Archives, vol. VIII, (Philadelphia: Joseph Severns & Co., 1853), 587–588.

31. Wayne to Reed, dated “Totowa, 25th Octr. 1780," ibid., 593.

32. Philip Katcher, Uniforms of the Continental Army (York, Pa.: George Shumway Publisher, 1981),

139. “Journal of Ebenezer Wild,” Proceedings of the Massachusetts Historical Society, 2nd

series, vol.

VI (Boston, Ma.: 1981), 137.

33. Washington to the Board of War, 23 November 1779, Fitzpatrick, Writings of George Washington, 17

(1937), 174–175.

34. Washington to James Wilkinson, 27 November 1779, ibid., 201–202.

35. Washington to James Wilkinson, 6 December 1779, ibid., 221.

36. , “Received of James Wilkinson Esqr Clothier Gen

l,” 10 May 1780, Invoices & Clothing

Delivery Book, 1779–80, Records of the Massachusetts Board of War, V119219, Massachusetts

Archives, Boston, Ma.

23

37. “Inventory of the Effects of Frederick Oblieskie,” Board of War Letters, 1778–80, vol. 153, no. 398,

Massachusetts Archives, Boston, Ma. Frederick Oblieskie was a private in Captain Elias Parkman’s

company, Colonel Ebenezer Thayer’s Regiment of Massachusetts militia, three months service in 1780.

Oblieskie died 27 August 1780. The complete inventory is appended:

“West Point, September 19th, 1780”

“Inventory of the Effects of Frederick Oblieskie, Viz

1 gun, /Bayonet & Carteredge Box

1 pr. Of thread stockings, 3 stocks

3 checkd handkerchiefs, 1 Coat, Jacoat & Britches

1 whit[e] shirt, 1 pr. New Shoes, 1 pr. half worn

1 phelt Hatt, 1 pr. wool stockings

money &c.

162 2/3 paper Dollars, 5 3/8 Silver Ditto

1 pistareen [Spanish silver coin], 1 pr. shoe, 1 pr. knee 1 stock Silver Buckles

1 pr. Shoe, 1 stock puter Buckels

Tailors Tools

1 pr. Large Shears, 1 pr. Sizers [scissors], 1 Thimble, Bobken

& Dividers, 1 penknife, 1 comb, 1 Bowl,

1 pencel, Book, 1 paper, case and

one knapsack …

Buried

1 Blanket, 1 shirt, 1 Handkfs and 1 cap …”

38. George Washington, circular to the states, 10 November 1780 (sent to New Hampshire,

Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Connecticut, New York, New Jersey, and Pennsylvania), Fitzpatrick,

Writings of George Washington, 20 (1937), 331–332.

39. Washington to John Sullivan, 20 November 1780, ibid., 371–373.

40. Orderly Book of Christopher Marshall, captain, 10th Massachusetts Regiment, 1781–82, Mss, United

States Military Academy Library, West Point, N.Y. (Courtesy of Henry Cooke).

41. Washington to William Heath, 8 and 22 January 1782, Fitzpatrick, Writings of George Washington, 23

(1937), 433–434, 456.

42. John K. Robertson, “’Stepalated Prices,’ 1782,” Military Collector & Historian, v. 57, n. 4 (Winter

2005), 179. Source cited as Joseph Russell’s Orderly Book, kept for Captain Benjamin Heywood’s 5th

Company, 6th Massachusetts Regiment, 26 March 1782–31 December 1782, Octavo volume 2 in the

United States Revolution Collection, American Antiquarian Society, Worcester, Massachusetts:

Regimental Orders March 6th 1782

Stepalated Prices for taylors Shoemakers barbers and Washweomen –––

(Viz)

Taylors Work [shillings/pence]

{making a uniform coat 5/

officers { Do Vest 2/

clothing { Do Breeches 2/

Shoemakers Work

Including {making a Pair of Boots 5/

Thread and { Do a Pair of Shoes 2/6

Wax {Tooling a Pair of Shoes /9

Barber

For Shaving and Dressing Pr Month

Each Officer 2/

24

Weomen’s work

{Washing a Shirt /4

Soap to be {Do Stock /1

found them {Do Hose /1

{Do Vest /2

{Do Breeches /2

43. David Brooks to George Washington, 1 April1782, George Washington Papers, series 4, reel 83

44. General orders, 10 April 1782, Fitzpatrick, Writings of George Washington, 24 (1938), 106–107.

45. Washington to Comfort Sands and Company, 4 May 1782, ibid., 222.

Appendix

Daniel Allen, born June 1744, joined Capt. Simeon Smith’s company, Col. Philip Burr Bradley’s

Connecticut State Battalion, Brig. Gen. James Wadsworth’s Brigade on 8 July 1776. Bradley’s

regiment served at Bergen Point and Paulus Hook, in New Jersey. That autumn they joined the

defenders of Fort Washington on Upper Manhattan Island. Allen was among those taken prisoner

when the Fort surrendered on 16 November 1776. Col. Bradley’s men were released in January

1777 (the 8 January 1777 issue of the Connecticut Journal noted that the previous Wednesday

200 prisoners debarked from a British ship at Milford); at least fifty died on the way home,

aboard ship or after they landed in Connecticut. Daniel Allen was among the latter, dying on 13

January 1777 in Stamford.

[Manuscript diary, page 1]

“Daniel Allen His

Book Ad 1776 …

[Ms. diary, page 2]

July ye 8 Ad 1776 … I enlisted my self under Lieut thomas Tanner and took my bounty and first

months wages …

[Ms. diary, page 3]

July ye 25 then I marced to capt allens

26 Marcht Sgt. [Ebenezer] youngses

27 to bargam pint [Bergen Point]

28 tend prairs [attended prayer service]

29 went man gard [went on main guard]

30 went to the point vewed fleat

1st August went on main gard

2 went on grd

3 workd for ezra green

4 St [torn; “Stood”?] gard …

[The entries for the remainder of August are intermittent, containing little of note.]

1 Septembr went on gard

2 staid at hum till the tenth went on gard

11 come of[f] gard

25

[Ms. diary, page 8]

Serjnt Hezekiah ford Dr. ly Sundries 7 Coppes [coppers], to mending your vest and a point of

milk and mending your Shurt Six coprs

John newton Dtr to oltering your Cote Sleeves 0–0–6

James Colman Dtr to oltering your 0–0–4

September

Serjant Seaton Dr. to mending your Cote and Shirt x0–0–6

September

Serjnt. Case [?] Dr. to mending your Stocken x0–0–6

october

4 Serjnt Seaton Dtr to mending your cote breaches and Shirt x 0–0–6

5 to mending your vest x 0–0–2

October 5

[?] Hezekiah Rouland Dtr to mending your trouse[r]s 0–0–4

Samuel Scovel Dtr 5 to mending your trouse[r]s x0–0–4

14

David hamdlintn Dtr to oltering trouse[r]s 0–0–7x

15 Serjnt. Seaton Dtr to Seating your Breeches and mending them 0–0–10x

Joseph Allen Dtr. to mending your trouse[r]s 0–x0–4

tobias walport Dtr. to mending your frock x0–0–2

marten Enos Dtr. to mending your trouse[r]s 0–0–2x

William Pierce Dtr. to cass x 0–0–6

Ebenezer Cralo Dtr. to mending your trouse[r]s 0–0–6x

William Pierce Dtr. to mend your cote & benjmn [Benjamin’s] trouse[r]s 0–0–4

To puting buttens on and [?] benjamons [Pierce?] vest x0–0–4

[Ms. diary, page 9]

July ye 28 Ad. 1776 to august 4 for that weak we Drawd bread & meat – & Soap & one barrel of

bear [beer] (to 10 august we Drawd bread meat Soap & two barrill of bear) from 11 to 18th

we

Drawd we drawd bread meat and Soap / from 18 to 25 we Draw bread meat & Soap and two

barrels of beer / from 25 to 1 first of September we Drawd bread & meat and two Bariel of bear

and Soap. from Septem 1 to 8 we Drawd bread and meat. from 8 to 15 we Drawd bread and

meat. from 15 to 22 we Drawd bread and meat and Soap / to the twenty 28 we Drawd bread &

meat and Soap.

october 6 Dito bread meat and Soap / 13 bread & meat / to 20. Drawd bread met and Soap / to

27. to 3 Drawd breread meat.

[Ms. diary, page 14]

Stamford Janry 15th

A.D. 1777

Mr Reuben Dibble’s Bill against the Estate of Daniel Allen Late of Cornwall Deceas’d

(if not paid by the United Colonies)

To Nurseing one Week 0..7..0

To Winding Sheet 0..6..0

To a Shirt 0..4..0

To Some Cider & Apples 0..1..0

To a Pint of Rum 0..2..0

To Firewood & Houseroom 0..6..0

26

To a Coffin 0..7..6

To Diging a Grave 0..4..6

₤ 1..18..0

[Ms. diary, page 15]

Serjnt X ford Corpl pierce & benjnm & hez rouland Saml X Scovel Joseph X hookr and Saml X

green Dtr 5 pence a peace for flour and pork / Ketchell bell for flour 3 pence / Joseph Harrison

Dtr 5 pence

[Ms. diary, page 16]

August ye 22 Ad 1776 being Thursday the Regulars landed on longiland 23:24:25 had Sundry

Scurmishes 26:27:28 & 29: they were a fighting & 330’o clock in the morning our troops quit the

Iland

September ye 15 new york was given up at 3 o Cloc in ye afternoon. 16 ye battle above New

York 123 [?] Poulers hook was given up. october ye 5 att 9 o clock at night we retreated from

Bergen.

Daniel Allen’s diary, Edward C. Starr, A History of Cornwall, Connecticut: A Typical New

England Town (New Haven: The Tuttle, Morehouse & Taylor Co., 1926), 252–254.

______________________ (Courtesy of Steve Rayner)

"And the taylors singing (as you know they must) ..."

Here's a very colorful image from Erkuries Beatty of the Pennsylvania line:

"Erkuries Beatty to Reading Beatty.

`Camp January 25th. 1780.

My Dear Reading-

Your Favour of the 9th instant came to hand a few Days ago, and obliged to answer it from Camp, which

is very disagreeable to me, but how can I help it, - I

[p. 209.]

[p. 210.]

must tell that I have lately involved myself in the greatest trouble I believe I was ever in, which is this,

after we came off the expedition there was no Pay Master to the Regt. the officers thought proper to

appoint me, when we join'd the Army I had to do the Duty of Regiment Clothier to[o], which is the

Cause of all my trouble, for I have lately drew Cloathing for the Regt & it is almost all to make up from

the Cloth all which I must oversee, which keeps me very Close confined - If you was just now to step into

my Hutt (which is only a very small Room if it ever got finished) I will tell you how you would find me,

for to give you a small scrap of my trouble - You'll find me sitting on a Chest, in the Center of Six or

Eight Taylors, with my Book, Pen & Ink on one side and the Buttons and thread on the other - the

Taylors yo'll find some A Cutting out, others sewing, outside of the taylors you will see maybe half

Dozen Men naked as Lazarus, begging for Cloathing, all about the Room you will see nothing but Cloth

& Cloathing, on the floor you'll find it about knee deep with Snips of Cloth & Dirt - If you stay any time

you'll hear every Minute knock-knock at the door & I calling walk in, others going out, which makes a

Continual Bussle - presently I begin to swear, sometimes have to jump up blundering over two or three

taylors to whip somebody out of the house - otherwise Tudor and my Mess Mates they begin to swear, &

with our Swearing, and the taylors singing (as you know they must), and the Men a grumbling . . . .

makes pretty Music for your Ear, and thats the way from morning till night, & from Weeks End to weeks

end, & I am sure I need not complain for want of Company as you do such as it is - & what makes it a

good Deal worse I think of nothing but getting a Change which makes me a good Deal fretfull-

Yesterday I rode out as far as our Brothers quarters and spent the day with him & his wife who came up

27

[p. 210.]

[p. 211.]

from Princeton to see him, which is the only agreeable Day I have had this 4 Weeks - I inclose a letter

from Brother John to you, in which he tells me he has written very pressing for you to come down to

Princeton for what I suppose he has told you, as yesterday was the first I heard of it, and expect to see

them enter into their vows, and I flatter myself that I shall have the pleasure of seeing you at the same

time or before - as you come Down your nearest way will be by Camp, you will find my hutt on the right

of Genl Hand's Brigade, you will know by the soldiers running in & out - and if you come we will both

go together, and if we Ride over we will go first to Princeton & then to Penna - now my Dear Reading I

hope you will leave no Stone unturned if you can possibly get away . . . day & night, or as you advised

me when I lived with Wineiry if no other way would do to Run away, for I'll Never forgive you if you

don't come, if you have it in your power, but if it an Impossibility for you to Come be sure to write me

before the latter end of Next week for about that time I will go, or never - As for the Disturbance in the

Regt the Gentleman is not yet come in but I believe he will, I havn't advised Brother John about it yet, but

it is time enough when the gentleman joins the Regt but you may Rely on it I intend doing nothing

inconsiderately or unadvisedly but I flatter myself that I have served so far in the Regt. with honour, and

rather than be guilty of any thing Dishonourable I want to quit the Service - but I am in hopes it will be

settled yet amicably & with honour to both parties - I am sorry to hear you are so lonesome, but when

you get acquainted with those accomplished Ladies you talk of you will spend time more agreeable I am

in hopes; and if long letters is any satisfaction to you, I'll warrant this shall be long enough for I intend

filling it full- You talk as if in the Spring you had a Notion of

[p. 211.]

[p. 212.]

quitting the Service, and to settle yourself for life, and you seem to talk of being blest with some fair one

who would lull all your cares to Rest - I should be glad to know if you have fixed upon any one of those

Northern ladies, that you think could make your life happy with. If so fetch her Down to Princeton, let us

have two Weddings in the Family at once which will save great expense & trouble - I send this by Lt. Gn.

Dennison who says he will deliver to you in person, if so I beg you would not treat him like a Stranger, as

he is a person of my intimate acquaintance, and what you may call a pretty clever fellow & I know that

your group of Hospitals is very seldom wanting a Glass of wine or a good Draught of grog, & I think

what is good for sick people cant be very bad for well - Oh that I was there one Evening I would shew

you what drinking wine was - I'll warrant I'd give it a sweat if I got hold of it - There is one Lt Tapp

likewise of the York line I understand lives in Fish Kill, a Gentleman of my acquaintance, and a very

Clever fellow if you see him give my kind Compliments to him - As for Brother George I have heard

nothing from him att all, and am very uneasy about him, thinking he is on a very fair way of ruining

himself - Bill I understand is learning to be a taylor. Did you ever hear the like? to think that Messrs

Erwin & Wynkoop could not find a gentiler occupation for the boy than a D----d Snyder

[p. 212.]

[p. 213.]

and without ever Consulting Brother John about it, do write me with your sentiments of the matter - I

believe I will conclude with the most Sanguine Expectations of seeing you here in twelve Days from the

Date hereof, I am Dr Reading

Your very affectionate & loving Brother

Erkuries

To

Doctor Reading Beatty Fish Kill."

Joseph M. Beatty, Jr. PhD.; "Letters of the Four Beatty Brothers of the Continental Army, 1774-1794,"

The Pennsylvania Magazine of History and Biography, vol. XLIV, no. 3 (1920).