> The traveller’s guide

The Traveller'sGuide

to the Bouches-du-Rhône

Sectors The Five Sectorsof the Bouches-du-Rhône

Aix and Salon-de-Provence Sector P. 7Aix-en-Provence P. 8The Countryside around Aix-en-Provence P. 11Salon-de-Provence P. 12The Countryside around Salon-de-Provence P. 13Discovery Circuits P. 14

Saint-Rémy and the Alpilles Sector P. 17Saint-Rémy de Provence P. 18The Countryside around Saint-Rémy P. 20Discovery Circuits P. 22

Arles, the Camargue and La Crau Sector P. 25Arles P. 26The Countryside around Arles P. 30Discovery Circuits P. 32

Martigues and the Côte Bleue Sector P. 35Martigues P. 36The Countryside around Martigues P. 38Discovery Circuits P. 40

Marseille and the Calanques Sector P. 43Marseille P. 44The Countryside around Marseille and Aubagne P. 49Discovery Circuits P. 50

ThemesTravel ThemesCulture and HeritagePrehistory and Antiquity P. 56

Church Architecture P. 58

Castles P. 59

Rural and Village Architecture P. 60

Urban and Suburban Architecture P. 61

Feast Days and Festivals P. 62

Crafts and Popular Traditions P. 64

Cultural Creativity P. 66

Gastronomy P. 68

Outdoor PursuitsWater P. 72

Protected Natural Sites P. 74

Water-centred Activities P. 76

Golf Courses and Driving Ranges P. 78

Hiking, Horse Riding and Cycling P. 80

Climbing and Caving P. 82

ChildrenPractical Information P. 86

General Information P. 88

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The Five Sectors of the Bouches-du-RhôneAixand Salon-de-Provence

Saint-Rémyand the Alpilles

Arles,the Camargue and La Crau

Martiguesand the Côte Bleue

Marseilleand the Calanques

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OverviewThis sector, along with the Alpilles, is one of the inland regions of Provence. To the north, the Durance River and the Luberon Natural Park form a natural border. This is an area of alternating hills and plains, favourable to agriculture and urban life. Two towns have developed here: Aix-en-Provence and Salon-de Provence. Emerging from the landscape to the west and seen from many miles around is the great sentinel of the Sainte-Victoire Mountain (1,011m) - known all over the world through the paintings of Cézanne. The City of Aix-en-Provence, which lies at the foot of the mountain, was once the capi-tal of Provence and attracts many visitors.

ClimateThe climate is rather variable according to the area. This region in fact has several microclimates. Overall, the summers are hot, the winters sunny and mid-seasons mild and ideal of travelling. Winters are colder away from the coast in the north of the département.

AccessAll modes of transport: Marseille-Provence Airport, Marseille Sea Port, railway lines (TGV station close to Aix in 2001), and major routes to Italy, Spain and the north of France (A7, A8). The area of Aix is ideally located from the point of view of natural environment andcommunications network.

Aixand Salon-de-Provence

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In the old medieval town visit the Saint Sauveur Cathedral and its neighbour-hood, the area around the city hall. The 17th and 18th

century quarter is well worth a visit for the architecture in general: the Quartier Mazarin and the area around the bishop’s palace where the music festival is held, the Pavillon de Vendôme, Place d’Albertas, the pri-vate mansions, the Cours Mirabeau and the fountains. It is extremely pleasant to wander in any part of the old town.

Notable Heritage

A town is asremarkable for its people as for its architecture. Mirabeau was one of the major play-ers in the French Revolution. Paul Cézanne founded modern art analys-ing the light of the Sainte-Victoire Mountain. His friend

Emile Zola lived here before becoming a novelist and tak-ing up the cause of Dreyfus and in the 20th century Darius Milhaud followed in the footsteps of the 17th century com-poser André Campra (see “Route Cézanne and Promenade Zola” tours).

Famous Figures of the Past

Sculpted doors and forged doorknockers - the skilled hands that fashioned these show that there is even an art to entering!

Aix-en-Provence has a population of 134,222 and is built on a plain at the foot of the Puyricard Plateau and the Sainte-Victoire Mountain.

The summers are hot, winters cool and sunny, mid-season is mild. The area has several microcli-mates, some windy some more sheltered, some more humid.

Originally founded on the slopes above the plain (Entremont Settlement), the pres-ent site of Aix bears a Roman name, Aquae Sextiae. The hot water springs have been

known since the first century BC. In the 15th century, the

university was expanded and in the

17th and 18th centuries the town became a model of archi-tecture (Mazarin Quarter).

History

In the quiet gardens of noble pavilions. Rich reminder of an era when luxury rubbed shoulders with sensual delight.

Beautiful mansions everywhere: tall windows, stucco ceilings and pier glass mirrors.

Gates of openwork bars, stone pillars, discreet entrances for distinguishedresidents.

The muscular body of Atlas unveils the splendours of a golden age.

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Aix-en-Provence

General AtmosphereThe town is known for its distinguished and aristocratic charm. The inhabitants boast of an easy way of life. Festival town, visual town, it draws students and chic visitors. 17th century classicism and fine 18th century buildings are very prominent in the old town, which conceals a multitude of handsome town mansions, and where one may wander casually in an architectural environment reminiscent of theatrical decor.

Overview and Climate

In the Middle Ages, the town wasfortified against all incursions.Today it is open to excursions.

Siege of the city of Aix by the Duke d’Epernon – 16th century – Musée Granet Collection – Ville d’Aix- plate B. Terlay

On the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville the old clock idly counts away the hours.

The town hall is also a stage on which the passer-by may become a player in a carefully chosen urban scene.

The countryside of Aix-en-Provence is famous for its coun-try houses and land-scapes and is usually explored by car:The Celto-Ligurian

settlement of Entremont, an archae-ological site, is testi-mony to the history of the Salyens, its first inhabitants.The Route du

Tholonet or the Route Cézanne leads to the Sainte-Victoire Mountain through beautiful country-side. The 17th and 18th century houses scattered across the landscape truly repre-sent the art of living: stone architecture, gardens andsculptures display great distinction and

a taste for beauty. Visit La Mignarde, La Gaude and Lanfant on the Route des Pinchinats, then the Plateau de Puyricard. The sunny vineyards of Palette, which produce some fine AOC wines, are not far out of town. The Fondation Vasarely houses the painter’s monumental works in a contemporary building.

From Aix, in every direction - the coun-tryside and villages are waiting to be explored…

To the East The Sainte-Victoire tour (60kms) is an introduction to the Mountain: an arid area with opportuni-ties for hiking, clim-bing, paragliding, kite flying, picnics, etc. Welcome andintroduction to the site (children) at the Maison de Sainte-Victoire in Saint-Antonin. Don’t miss the dinosaur site (see the Museum of Natural History, Aix) and traces of the painters Cézanne and Picasso (the Château de Vauvenargues was his last home). The woodlands, natural protected sites and open to hikers and children (closed

during the summer). The summit of the Pic des Mouches is easily reached via the Col des Portes pass. One may also venture along the Wine route of the Vallée de l’Arc through Puyloubier, Rousset, Peynier and Palette.

To the NorthVia Vauvenargues, pass through the forests of Jouques, Meyrargues and Peyrolles (Lac de

Plaintain and perma-nent Provençal wood-lands discovery cen-tre for children), then cross the Trévaresse Range towards Le Puy-Sainte-Réparade (Château Lacoste wines). Continue on to the Romanesque Abbey of Silvacane and the village of La Roque d’Anthéron, which hosts an International Piano Festival in July and August.

To the South and WestTake the hillside vil-lage route: Fuveau, Saint-Savournin and Mimet offer beautiful views of the Sainte-

Victoire Mountain. Gardanne is notable for its industrial activity (coal and aluminium) and its popular markets (nature workshops at the Fondation pour la Forêt, a woodland ecomuseum for children and adults). Further on, visit Bouc-Bel-Air and the 18th century Albertas gardens, Cabriès (Edgar Mélik museum in the château), Plan-de-Campagne for water sports and aquarium for children, the stone houses of Ventabren, the village of Eguilles, etc...

Calissons d’Aix, made from almond paste and crystallised fruits, have been the speciality of the town since the 17th century and should not be missed. Other pleasures of the pal-ate include olive oil, hand-made choco-lates from Puyricard (shop) (among which the fig and Provençal marc bran-dy flavoured “Clou

de Cézanne”) and “pompes à l’huile” (type of brioche). The many lively and colourful markets present the products of the surrounding area.

The International Festival of Lyric Arts has brought notoriety to the town both within France and abroad. The operas of Mozart, baroque music and bel canto attract music lovers

to the old archbish-op’s palace during the month of July. Other major events include the “Danse à Aix” (Dance Festival), the Santon Fair, and numerous congresses.

Events

The Albertas Gardens - water scenario againsta backdrop of greenery.

Little calisson, how can one not succumb…?

Place de la Rotonde: a year-round Festival of water.

Château de Vauvenargues. Pablo Picasso, tu es venu finir ta vie créatrice au pied de Sainte-Victoire, comme Paul Cézanne !

The Musée du Vieil Aix, the Tapestry Museum relate some of the moments of the local past. The Granet Museum has been renovated and its collections extend-ed. Now it is opening to the public again in majestic manner in order to honour of Cézanne. The Museum of Natural History tells of the dinosaur eggs found

outside Aix. The Pavillon de Vendôme tells us love stories of the 17th cen-tury. The Atelier Paul Cézanne is enjoyed by admirers of one of the most impor-tant painters in the history of art, with souvenirs of the art-ist in the Maison des Lauves where he fin-ished his canvasses. Monumental works by the painter and graphic artist Vasarely are exhibited in the Fondation on the edge of the city.

Museums

Lively markets offer all theflavours of a fertile and imaginative land.

Local Products

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Aix Sector Close to Aix-en-Provence

The Countryside around Aix

Aix is a spa town with water curesavailable at the Sextius baths. The spa, in the old town centre, still offers thermal cures in the

watersdiscovered by the Romans.

FitnessThe Sainte-Victoire Mountain: the most important monument of Aix en Provence - so present, yet seemingly so distant.

Paul Cézanne’s Studio: in the footsteps of the master of Aix whose nature it was to recreate.

And Emile Zola?Who do Aix-en-Provence and Sainte-Victoire make you think of? Cézanne of course, who painted this mountain as if it were the only one in the world, but Emile Zola?A friend of Cézanne’s, he too came from Aix. His father constructed the dam not far from the famous Route Cézanne, which winds its way from Aix out to the Mountain. Emile Zola was firstly a novelist and his descriptions of the bourgeoisie of the time found fertile ground in the Aix region where he drew inspiration for his naturalist saga Les Rougon-Macquarts. Plassans is based on the town of Aix and oneepisode even takes place in Les Artauds, close to the château of Tholonet. Zola then left for Paris where he wrote his great novels: Germinal, La Bête Humaine, l’Assommoir, etc. Towards the end of his life, Emile Zola played a major role in defence of Dreyfus with his letter “J’Accuse” to the newspaper L’Aurore. Like Cézanne he was from Aix, like Cézanne he depicted his era, like Cézanne he took the high road…

Overview and Climate

From the townMany Excursions. Salon de Provence is located in the centre of the Bouches-du-Rhône. It is an ideal location from which to visit other areas: the Alpilles, Arles, the Côte Bleue andAix-en-Provence.

To the EastTake the road towards Aurons, Alleins and Vernègues: old village, Roman temple and wines at Château Bas. From Pélissanne, a village laid out in the shape of a helix, head forLa Barben: feudal castle and a zoo for children. A little further away, visit Rognes for its

stone quarries, wine and truffle festi-vals, Lambesc for its church architecture and Saint Cannat and the automaton village for children.

To the SouthHead for Calissanne and La Fare (wine and olive oil), then visit the hillside village of Cornillon-Confoux.

To the NorthTake the road to the Alpilles (see Alpilles Sector) and visit Lamanon: cave dwellings, “Grottes de Calès” and remark-able three hundred-year-old plane tree.

To the WestThe plain of La Crau is nearby (see Arles, the Camargue and La Crau Sector).

Salon has a popula-tion of 37,129 and is located on the plain of La Crau. The sum-mer heat here is

relieved by themistral wind and the winters are sunny, sometimes windy.

MuseumsThe military museum of the Château de l’Empéri and the Musée Grevin de Provence are of

interest to both adults and children. The Nostradamus Museum, in the house of the wise man himself, attracts lovers of esotericism and enigmatic proph-ecies. Catherine de Medici came here to consult him. The Musée de Salon et de la Crau records the world of traditions and the techniques of the old commer-cial and industrial town during the time of the soap mak-ers. Don’t miss the exhibition of olive oil production.

The Salon Jazz Festival, held during the summer, takes place in the château courtyard.

A colourful reconsti-tution of local history includes the partici-pation of the local inhabitants.

History and notable heritage

Yesterday a fortress, today an air base, this quiet little town attracts service-men whose deeds are recorded in the books and arms of the museum.

Salon was originally a little bourgeois town.

The presence of the air base brings a more urban and cosmopolitan aspect. The Middle

Ages and the 19th century have left their mark on this agreeable small town. Wander

along the Cours Gimon and relax on theterrace of one of the cafés close the mossy fountain.

An impressivearchitectural group dominates the town: the Château de l’Empéri, begun in the 9th century but built mostly during 13th, 15th and 17th centuries, and the oldfortified town. The citadel dominates the surrounding countryside with the pedestrianised old

town, the church of Saint-Michel and the clock tower at its feet and set a little apart, the lovely medieval church of Saint-Laurent.The military area, located on the edge of town, centres on the air base and school (home of the French formation fliers).

At the Empéri Citadel: festival projectors replace the fire of warriors of times gone by.

Famous Figures of the PastOriginally from Saint Rémy, Nostradamus made his home here. This astrologer, author of the 16th century “Centuries”, today still holds afascination for many people. Was he a scientist, a poet or an

impostor? Opinions differ. Adam de Craponne, who lived at the same period, was an ambitious engineer who designed the system of irrigation channels that ren-dered the area fertile.

Michel de Nostredame, alias NostradamusWhat an astonishing man Michel de Nostredame was. Known as Nostradamus by the students at the faculty of medicine of Montpellier, he was not only an astrologer but firstly a scientist who studied at this prestigious university during the 16th cen-tury and frequented the great humanist François Rabelais, who was also a Hellenic scholar and a doctor. He made his name as a scientist through his methods of combating the plague and his treaty on the preservation of jams. Did he not decipher the secret of Egyptian hieroglyphics before Champollion? He was also a poet and astrologer. And it is in fact his work of prediction in verse, “Centuries”, for which he is remembered nowadays. Is predicting the future not the dream of every scientist today? Nostradamus would surely have enjoyed life today. He would have been interested in astronomy, meteorology, and per-haps even the preservation of jams…Maison de Nostradamus in Salon de Provence

Events

Château de la Barben: in the heart of the garrigue, the art of topiary persuades roguish plants to see sense in formal gardens.

The plain of La Crau is nearby (see Arles, the Camargue and La

Crau Sector).

The Terrible and Refreshing Mistral!“The Mistral drives us crazy!” With this sense of proportion that characterises the people of Provence, they love to complain about the excesses of the terrible north wind. Of course cold winds rarely have a good reputation anywhere, but this wind that is so dreaded that the farms are built with their backs to it, brings nothing but good. First of all, it guarantees good weather because when it gets up, the clouds are swept from the sky so that at the end of a day of Mistral the olive trees in the countryside and the church facades in the towns are resplendent - bathed in the clear light so loved by Van Gogh. The wind also chases away pollution, fumes, and disease. When it blows, there are no insects left on the plants and no mosquitoes on the beaches! Lastly, the mistral constitutes a game. Will it blow for 3, 6 or 9 days? The mistral is the soul of this coun-try, but it is true that it drives us crazy!

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Salon-de-Provence The Countryside around

General Atmosphere

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Aix and Salon-de-Provence Sector

The Sainte-Victoire Tour:Complete tour - allow at least one day. Each ascent requires a half-day except the Pic des Mouches (2-3 hours return trip).

The Sainte-Victoire tour can be done in either direction. It is usually started from the Route Cézanne which leads to Le Tholonet. This beautiful route goes from Aix to the mountain via Cézanne’s Château Noir. In Le Tholonet: château, beautiful Plane tree avenue, and Roman dam (excursion on foot). Now head for Saint-Antonin via Roques Hautes (nature reserve, arboretum). Departure point from Le Bouquet for the climb to the Croix de Provence via the red trail. In Saint-Antonin: panoramic view, Maison de Sainte Victoire, departure point for excursions. Now drive along the south face of the mountain towards Puyloubier. Excursions to the hermi-tage from Saint-Ser. From the village, head for Pourrières then take the road

to Rians through the oak-forest. Turn left to Vauvenargues before you reach Rians. On the way there: woodlands, natural site, ascent to the Pic des Mouches from the Col des Portes pass (2-3 hours return trip, panoramic view). In Vauvenargues visit the village, Picasso’s château, or climb to the Croix de Provence via the hiking trail. Return to Aix via the Bimont dam (follow the blue way-markers for a tour of the dams) and Bibemus (Cézanne’s cottage, panoramic views).

South Sainte-Victoire:hills and hillside villages(day trip)

Start the Sainte-Victoire tour and after Saint-Antonin turn right towards Rousset then head for Puyloubier and Trets through the hills of the Arc Valley. Next, take the road to Peynier and go to Fuveau via Les Michels: lovely views of the Sainte-Victoire. From here, it is pos-

sible to go back to Aix through Beaurecueil and Le Tholonet, or return on the higher road through Saint-Savournin and Mimet: villages and lovely view. Return to Aix via Bouc-Bel-Air and the Albertas Gardens.

North Sainte-Victoire: Mountain and Forest (day trip)Take the road to Vauvenargues via the Bimont dam, built by Emile Zola’s father. From Vauvenargues (village and Picasso’s château), climb to the Croix de Provence. At the vil-lage exit, take the road to Jouques: La Sinne natural site, excursion. Go through the Col du Sambuc pass and head towards Jouques: old village, Vignelaure wines and Pigoudet Château nearby. Next, take direction Peyrolles: Plantain Lake, Woodland Discovery Centre. Head for Meyrargues with its châ-teau-hotel and Roman aqueduct then just before you reach Aix, Les Pinchinats and its remarkable 17th century mansions.

La Trévaresse : Hills and Romanesque Abbey (day trip)This excursion can be started from either Salon or Aix. From Aix, take the road to Rognes via the Puyricard Plateau. Alternative route via La Cride and Château la Coste. In Rognes: old village in local stone, churches (baroque reredos), wine and truffle fairs. From Rognes head for La Roque d’Anthéron and visit the beautiful Silvacane Abbey by the Durance River (Romanesque Cistercian). In La Roque d’Anthéron: International Piano Festival in the grounds of the Château de Florans, the village and museum. Next, take the steep winding road to Lambesc. Stop off on the way to visit the Romanesque Chapel of Saint Anne and the cave dwellings. In Lambesc visit the village and the church and return to Aix either through the vineyards of Rognes or via the little Route d’Eguilles.

From Temple to Zoo: (day trip)From Salon, take the road towards Aurons and head for Vernègues: old village. Make for the ancient temple of Château Bas: temple

and winery. Next visit La Barben on the way to Pélissanne. In La Barben, visit the medie-val château and the zoo (picnic) then return to Salon. (For children).

Towards the Alpilles and La Crau: (1/2 day trip)

Following the signs to Eyguières, head for the Alpilles. The road crosses the Boisgelin and Craponne canals. Suggested visit en route: Lamanon for its cave dwellings (Calès) and remarkable three-hundred-year old plane tree. Eyguières: old village, museum and fountains. Now head for Mouriès via thehillside village of Aureille. In Mouriès: visit the village and sample the Valley of Les Baux olive oil. Then visit the steppe region of Saint Martin de Crau: ecomuseum in la Crau and Peau de Meau Nature Reserve. Return to Salon.

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OverviewAlong with the Aix and Salon area, this is the second inland region, located in the north-west of theBouches-du-Rhône, to the south of Avignon and the Durance River and to the East of the Rhône. The countryside is made up of small mountains and valleys. The Alpilles mountain range crosses it from east to west.This is traditional hinterland, the home of regionalist writers Alphonse Daudet and Frédéric Mistral. The little town of Saint-Rémy welcomed the artist Vincent Van Gogh who realised his greatest paintings here (sunflowers and cypress trees). The villages thrive on agriculture.

ClimateHot in summer and sunny in winter. The north wind blows from time to time, cool in summer, cold in winter, mild in mid season (mistral).

AccessGood access by road from the Rhône Valley, Italy or Spain. TGV station in Avignon, Nîmes-Arles-Camargue airport nearby.

Saint-Rémyand the Alpilles

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Built on an irrigated plain at the foot of the Alpilles mountain range, Saint-Rémy has a population of 9,806. The sum-mers are hot and the winters sunny. The irrigated cultivated land to the north

brings the shade and humidity the people of Provence love so much. The dry climate of the Mediterranean is typical almost throughout the Alpilles.

Overview and climate

At Saint-Paul de Mausole, the pres-ence of Van Gogh with his quest and doubt can still be felt. The rural museum of the Mas de la Pyramide exhibits 3 centuries of country life and tools. The fragrances and perfumes of the Espace Muséographic and the Musée des Alpilles introduce the visitor to life in the hills (gar-rigue) and invite us to discover the

Mediterranean flora. The Renaissance Hôtel de Sade pres-ents objects taken from the archaeologi-cal site at Glanum. Monumental works by the artist at the Fondation Prassinos.

Museums

All year round, tradi-tional feasts punctu-ate the life of the town: the Fête de la Transhumance gath-ers shepherds and

sheep, the Fête de la Charrette pays hom-age to the cart horse, and the Provençal Feria attracts lovers of bull-fighting ama-

teurs. All the feasts of Saint Rémy show off the gorgeous local traditional costumes. Finally Christmas, more a family occa-sion, unites the people around the 13 desserts. There are many lively feasts and festivals here includ-ing an organ festival in the summer.

At the gates to the town, the Alpilles offer all the space hikers and tourists could desire. It is very hot during the summer.

Nostradamus was born in Saint-Rémy, where he lived until moving to Salon. Frédéric Mistral (see Maillane) frequented

the town. Van Gogh found all the inspiration for his creative genius in the force of the light here.

Valley of Les Baux, valley of the olive, silently preparing its sunny oil.

At the market: nature offers the best of its latest creations.

Fêtes de la Transhumance: maintain the tradition so as

not to lose one’s place.

Events

Local Products

Fitness

Famous Figures of the Past

Two ladders are necessary to reach the highest branches of the olive trees…

Arches and columns: the Romans triumphed in “Antique” times at Glanum.

Saint-Rémy-de-Provence Why are the olivessplit here?Of course, the Les Baux olive oil is renowned. Without entering the debate on the comparative merits of the oils of Mouriès, La Fare-les-Oliviers, Aix or Nyons in the Drôme, it is useful to confirm that the AOC first pressing virgin oil is worth its price. Less well known are the split olives (olives cassées) of the Valley of Les Baux, which are produced in the winter and destined for local consumption. But why are the olives split? Well, in mid-winter, when the right variety of olives are still green, these small bitter fruit are picked come rain or mistral. They are then split with tap of a mallet and left to soak in clean water, which is changed every day for 9 days to get rid of the bitterness. They are then soaked for

another 9 days, depend-ing on the recipe, in a tub of brine to begin

the phase of impregna-tion. It is at this point that opinions differ. We prefer them flavoured with bay leaf and fen-nel and served with an aperitif. There is only one problem. Once you start eating them it’s difficult to stop.

Saint-Rémy is a chic

little town in a rura

l

milieu, its shops and

houses attract a pop

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tion of artists and pe

ople who appreciate i

nland

Provence where one t

akes life at any easy

pace.

Saint-Rémy is close t

o Avignon and its fe

stivals

and heritage, as well

as Arles and its feria

s. This

town, remarkable fo

r its Roman remains

and

16th century archite

cture is a perfect sym

bol of

inland Provence - pro

ud and discreet.

In an area rich in alluvial deposits and agricultural know-how, fruits and vege-tables are the basis of

the flavourful cuisine. Visit the market for fresh products and the fruit confection-eries in the town.

The original site of the town was the Greco-Roman “Glanum”, of which there are some remarkable remains: triumphal arch, mausoleum, and exca-vations. The modern town is a group of stone houses built from the Middle Ages to the present day. The 16th and 17th century urban residential area is par-ticularly interesting.

Outside the town, the monastery of Saint-Paul de Mausole is worth a visit: it was in this Romanesque building, reshaped up until the 18th cen-tury, that the painter Van Gogh was incar-cerated.

History and Notable Heritage

General Atmosphere

A small sheltered mountain range above the plain,the Alpilles forma dry microcosm,a harbour for Mediterranean flora and fauna (birds of prey). There is a risk of fire so please be cautious. The summit is the Tour des Aupiès (493m).

To the North Maillane: the home of Frédéric Mistral, Nobel prizewinner for literature, founder of the movement for the preservation of Provençal customs and language during the 19th century (le félibrige). Don’t miss the Museon Mistral in the writer’s house.In Graveson: Musée des Arômes et du Parfum (Museum of aromas and perfume) and museum of paint-ings by the Fauvist Auguste Chabaud.In Barbentane: 16th and 18th century

château and oil mills.La Montagnette: on a little mountain stands the Saint-Michel de Frigolet Abbey, which Daudet made famous with his “Elixir du Révérend Père

Gaucher” and the village of Boulbon (Romanesque cha-pels).In Châteaurenard, two tall towers remain of the medi-eval castle from which there is a mar-

vellous view of the Montagnette, the Alpilles and the Mont Ventoux.

Tarascon: on the Roman road Domitia on the banks

of the Rhône, across the river from Beaucaire (important market in medieval times). King René’s feudal castle is beau-tifully preserved. The pedestrianised old town centre makes agreeable walking (arcades, stone buildings, etc.). Famous Provençal fabric factory with museum (Souleiado). The Feast of the Tarasque at the end of June celebrates ancient legends. Boat trips on the Rhône. Between Tarascon and Saint-Etienne-du-Grès: magnificent Romanesque Church of Saint-Gabriel,

Provençal fabric fac-tory (Les Olivades), and fruit and veg-etable market.

The centreFrom the heart of the Alpilles rises the Citadel of Les Baux, a fortified village remarkable for its site

and its architecture dating from the Middle Ages to the 16th century. The Cathedral of Images puts on son et lumière shows in the old stone quar-ries. The hotellery is renowned through-out the Alpilles (gourmet cuisine and luxury accommoda-tion) as well as the Santon Museum and AOC wines.

To the South of the AlpillesThe whole of the south face of the range is dotted with typically Provençal villages. In Fontvieille, Maussane and Mouriès, villages of the Valley of Les Baux, visit Alphonse Daudet’s Mill and the

Fontvieille stone, taste the olive oil from Mouriès (AOC), visit the Roman aqueduct and mill at Barbegal (see also the Musée de l’Arles antique), watch the bull run-ning in the village bull ring, or enjoy a Provençal Christmas.By car, or bike for the fitter types, tour the Alpilles via Aureille, Eyguières (Château de Roquemartine, Castellas de la Reine Jeanne, Museum, Midnight Mass, and Aerodrome) and Le Destet: landscape of olive groves. Visit the Chapel of Saint-Sixte in the beautiful village of Eygalières and the medieval alchemist’s garden at the Mas de la Brune (high quality hotel-lery).

The procession of the Tarasque, dated 1788. Oil on parchment.

Anonymous. Museon Arlaten Coll.Les Baux: on this promontory in the skies, prince and architect gave birth to a masterpiece in stone through the grace of art.

The vivid colours of Provençal fabrics reflect the light and gayety of holidays.

A glazed pot contains the secrets of savoir-faire within its roun-ded belly!

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The Countryside around Saint-Rémy

In Praise of IdlenessOf course, there is the rhythm of the seasons, needs and obligations, but don’t let us for-get the exceptions! Take the almond tree for example. This tree, a symbol of Provence, only produces fruit every other year. Then there is the siesta, the afternoon snooze necessitated by the heat of the Mediterranean summer. Didn’t Ulysses take a nap after offering food to the gods and Athena when he had been thrown on an unknown beach by the fury of Aeolus? When all is said and done, when you count the bakers, night watchmen, children, idlers, conva-lescents, artists, top-levelsportsmen and women, lovers, dogs, cats, swim-mers, party-goers, land workers, tourists and Latin Americans, who doesn’t take an after-noon nap? So during the heat of July, when the heat wave grips the towns and the country-side, alternate, and let the cicada sing, it only has a few days to live!

Fontvieille“In front of Maitre Honorat Grazini, notary with the residence of PampérigousteTo Alphonse Daudet Esquire, poet, domiciled in Paris, Gaspard Mitiflo Esquire sold a flour windmill, situa-ted in the valley of the Rhône, in the heart of Provence. Notwithstanding such as it is and stands, states Daudet to find the aforementioned mill with suitability and being able to be used for the work of poetry”

“Letters from my windmill”.

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the site of Notre-Dame-de-Beauregard from where there are lovely views. Head for Eygalières as in circuit 1 then return to Saint-Rémy.

Towards the Montagnette. (1/2-day trip)

Natural site of Inland Provence, the Montagnette lies to the northwest of the Alpilles, between the Rhône and the Durance. Leaving Saint-Rémy, take the road to Maillane to explore the village of Frédéric Mistral, poet, linguist and Nobel prizewinner (museum). Then go on to Graveson and visit the museum of aromas and perfume. Now head for Saint-Michel-de- Frigolet where Alphonse Daudet chose to situate his tale “l’Elixir du Révérend Père Gaucher”. The excursion continues towards Tarascon as described in circuit 4. From Tarascon, visit the village of Boulbon and its Romanesque chapels then return to Saint Rémy or visit the agricultural plain known as the Petit Crau via Barbentane and Châteaurenard.

Towards the Rhône. (day trip)From Saint Rémy, head towards Tarascon. The start of this circuit has a theme: Provençal fabrics: “Les Olivades” in Saint-Etienne-du-Grès and“Souleiado” in Tarascon (factory and museum). In Tarascon, after a visit to the renowned “Souleiado”, visit the old town, King Rene’s castle,the Musée de Tartarin

(Daudet’s imaginary character). The town of Beaucaire, on the other side of the river is worth a detour. Take a boat trip down the Rhône from Tarascon, effectuer une promenade fluviale sur le Rhône, just for the pleasure.

The heart of the Alpilles - from Les Baux to Eygalières. (day trip)From Saint Rémy, head to Les Baux-de-Provence. The tour of the site requires at least half a day: Renaissance urban ensemble, château and citadel, museum, Cathedral of Images. On site: gour-met Provençal restaurants and wine. Bauxite, from which aluminium is made, was discovered in Les Baux in 1822. After this high altitude mineral tour purified by the mistral, go down to the Valley of Les Baux towards Maussane and either directly or via Mouriès, cross the Alpilles to Eygalières, a pretty village between the mountain and the plain. Just outside the village, visit the remarkable Chapel of Saint-Sixte and its cypress trees, and the alchemist’s gar-den at the Mas de la Brune (high stan-dard hotellery). Return to Saint-Rémy.

Tour of the Alpilles. (day trip)From Saint-Rémy head west towards the village of Saint-Etienne-du-Grès. On the way, near Fontvieille, visit the very beautiful Romanesque church of Saint-Gabriel. Next take the road to the Valley of Les Baux. In Fontvieille: Provençal village, Alphonse Daudet’s windmill (Letters from my Windmill). Interesting short detour to the pre-historic and Roman sites of Barbegal. Continue towards Maussane and Mouriès (famous olive oil), then on to the hillside village of Aureille, then Eyguières, running along the southern face of the Alpilles. Visit the old village of Eyguières. Now head for Orgon and either go directly to Eygalières or on to Orgon via the foot of Castellas de Roquemartine, known as the Château de la Reine Jeanne. In Orgon, visit

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Saint-Rémy and the Alpilles

OverviewThis is waterland - river, marshes and the sea. Located to the west of the Bouches-du-Rhône, the Arles sector lies just above the Rhône delta and the ancient alluvial plains on the edge of the Mediterranean.It is a wild land where the sea, river and lakes are intimately mingled and wild life is very present: birds, bulls, horses, sheeps, etc. The ancient town of Arles, on UNESCO’s World Heritage List, is a bastion of Provençal and Camargue customs.

ClimateIt is warm and sunny all year round, with days of strong mistral. In the Camargue, the fauna is untamed - mosquitoes are an integral part of the community and must not be underestimated (creams and repellents).

AccessEasy access by motorway from the Rhône Valley, Spain and Italy, TGV station in Avignon, Nîmes-Arles-Camargue and Marseille-Provence Airports.

Arles, the Camargue and La Crau

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Arles has a popula-tion of 50,513 and is constructed on a plain close to the Rhône Delta.

Summers are hot, winters are sunny and cool. The mistral can blow at any time of the year.

Overview and Climate

History

The regionalist writer Frédéric mistral left his mark here, as well as in Saint-Rémy and Maillane (see the Alpilles). The Museon Arlaten is his

ethnographic legacy, funded by the money from his Nobel Prize. Van Gogh and Gauguin both

lived and worked in Arles.

Famous Figures of the Past

This grand ancient town was built on the intersection of the routes linking Rome, Spain, and northern Europe: Via Aurelia, Via Agrippa and Via Regordane. The city prospered until the 16th century when

activity slowed. In the 20th century it came alive again

thanks to agriculture, tourism and culture.

At Saint Trophime, Roman art believes in the virtues of hidden cloisters - Christian version of more Latin and more distant patios.

The ancient and Roman town is on

the UNESCO World Heritage list for its outstanding inter-est: amphitheatre, classical theatre, underground gal-

The Roman amphitheatre we call “arena”, meaning sand and which is common to all Mediterranean shores

Dreaming statue – time stands still…

lery (forum), Saint-Trophime cloisters and doorway. There are Roman remains all over the town. Two outstanding examples of church architecture are the Christian necropo-lis, Les Alyscamps, painted by Gauguin, and the Romanesque

church and cloisters of Saint-Trophime. The town centre is rich in Renaissance civil architecture, examples of which are the many man-sions.

Notable Heritage

Portrait of a young Arlésienne – Alexandre Hesse (1806-1879) Museon Arlaten Coll.

Under the theatre of Ancient Rome appear the remains of gentle Greek civilisation.

ArlesWas the ArlésienneJapanese?Let us establish which Arlésienne we are talking about. Is it the heroine of Alphonse Daudet’s tale put to music by Bizet, who never arrives and from which we get the expres-sion “l’Arlésienne” to refer to someone we are never able to meet? Is it Miss Arles, elected each year as a representative of the town at festivi-ties? An inhabitant of the town referred to by poets? Or is it simply a woman who dresses in distin-guished traditional costume. Whether she is Queen of a town or a neighbourhood, the Arlésienne has first and foremost a distinctly elegant bear-ing. Like the matador, she dresses slowly with the help of her fam-ily, slipping on skirts, carefully positioning ribbons, pins, crosses and the sophisticated head-dress to create an image and prolong a myth. There is some Japanese influence in this art of costume: coded refinement, classicism open to variation. If Van Gogh and Gauguin loved Japanese art, could it perhaps be because there are subtle affini-ties between Nippon and Provençal cul-tures?Arlésiennes by Léo Lelée

The Arlésienne offers a highly sophisticated image of a tradi-tion that is today a spectacle.

General Atmosphere

Ancient town, Christ

ian and Renaissanc

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nd feasts and festiva

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A festive city, Arles knows a lot about presentation and welcome: the elec-

tion of Miss Arles and the Costume Festival (fabrics, traditional costumes, haute couture, etc.). Bull festivals: (bull run-ning, corridas, ferias,

Ranchers’ Festival or Mediterranean games in full coded force). Festival of Photography (National School), Dance Festival and International Santon Festival. The publish-ers Actes Sud and Harmonia Mundi daily inject life into the town.

Rice, bull meat, sau-cisson and salt are the products of this

wilderness of the Rhône Delta.

On the sand of the arena, encounters of cultures from Spain and Camargue.

Sewing workshopDiorama from a painting by Antoine Raspal. Museon Arlaten

The Abbey of Montmajour: order and rule allied to the golden section and the compass have raised these abbeys of great dimension - islands of stone and prayer towering above a scene from everyday life.

Miss Arles may be elected democratically each year, but the Rhône is a savage king with natural rights.

Costumes keep customs alive.

Local Products

For Rhoneside Antiquity, visit the Musée de l’Arles Antique, which pos-sesses interesting sculptures and splen-did stone sarcopha-guses. For customs, the Museon Arlaten keeps alive the mem-ory of both the true and mythical past. See also the Musée

Réattu and the town in general. Arles is a veritable open-air museum.

Museums

Events

The famous Langlois Bridge painted by Van Gogh.

In the Musée de l’Arles Antique: amphorae destined to be used for

preserving - of which the good state of preservation allows the preservation of

the memory of amphorae!

Arles Close to Arles

Why not take a boat trip on the Rhône? The river flows through the town itself. Van Gogh’s bridge, on the road to Port Saint-Louis,is accessible by car. It is one of the paint-er’s most well known subjects. See also the Espace Van Gogh in Arles.A short distance away, the Abbey of

Montmajour rises above the marsh-land drained by the monks. The 11th century monastery is testimony to the monastic grandeur of the Middle Ages. Visit the hermitage, the cloisters and the chapel - bathe in the magic of the setting.Arles is the gate to the vast Camargue (see the Camargue).

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Van Gogh The Provençal DutchmanVincent Van Gogh was a mystic. Having lived among the Dutch miners, he left for Paris before subsequently setting up home in Arles in Provence where his search for God and the ideal became confused with his artistic quest. His companion Gauguin, having painted Les Alyscamps,

left for distant lands. The two artists were completely taken up with their lives and their art. Only Cézanne, native of the town, stayed in Aix. What remains of Van Gogh in Arles and Saint Rémy where he painted most of his masterpieces? His paintings, which are today worth astronomical sums, travel the world from one collector to another, now part of the heritage of mankind. Vincent Van Gogh was a link between Provence and therest of the world.

Espace Van Gogh.

The Camargue is a unique land, a wil-derness where birds (Etang de Vaccarès), bulls and horses co-habit (feast days and rid-ing, ranchers and ranches). Rice is also cultivated here (AOC). It is an important stop-off point in Europe for migrat-ing birds (December wintering) and there are many parks and reserves. In this imposing space there are a host of muse-ums and initiation centres to welcome

visitors, adults and children alike. Bull festivities punctuate the seasons.The Camargue

National Reserve of the Etang de Vaccarès pro-poses exhibi-tions and dis-covery trails at la Capelière .The Camargue

Natural Regional Park,as well as its mission to protect the environment, pos-sesses an information and exhibition centre at Ginès. The Musée Camarguais can be

visited at the Mas du Pont de Rousty: his-tory and discovery trail on a traditional farm.

See also the château d’Avignon (grand 19th century property of an enlightened bour-geois).The Domaine de la Palissade, the prop-erty of the coastal and lakeside conser-

vancy, puts on guided tours of the flora and fauna for groups or individuals. See also exhibitions on the natural environment.The Pont-de-Gau bird sanctuary is a health centre for birds: see also on-site exhibi-tions and wildlife trails.The Association la Sigoulette offers edu-cational activities – discovery and under-standing of the area. This ‘house of nature’ accommodates chil-dren, teenagers and adults full board.

To the east of the Rhône the Marais du Vigueirat, is placed under the watchful eye of the coastal and lakeside conser-vancy: observation of the environment (sansouire salt steppe) and theme circuits for children.The Saintes-Maries de la mer along with Salin de Giraud, lies at the gates to the Camargue. This is the Camargue of long beaches, boat trips or kayaking on the Petit Rhône and the canals. Don’t miss the 12th

century fortified church and the gypsy pilgrimage in May.There is access to the sea wall to the east of Salin de Giraud, Visit the salt marshes and dunes at the salt works.Not far from there,

Port-St-Louis-du-Rhône has a fortified tower and long deserted sandy beaches. Boat trips out to sea.

The Camargue horse lives in the wild in the Rhône Delta. Its temperament and ability to adapt to the environment make it ideal for bull ranching.

A second remarkable feature of the Arles sector is la Crau , arid steppe land rich in fauna and flora (sandgrouse). In this dry area unique in France, prairie land has been created by a system of irrigation canals. Discover the steppe as an ecosystem: see also the Musée de Salon and of la Crau, and the ecomuseum at Saint-Martin de Crau ; Sheep farm-ing: The Merle sheep

farming training cen-tre, which promotes the Arles Merino breed ; hay cultiva-tion: the Crau hay won the first AOC for a forage plant and

is supplied to stud farms all over France. Irrigation: the canal system designed by Adam de Craponne during the 16th cen-tury is a network of

waterways which has allowed the development of local agriculture (canal de Craponne, canal de Boisgelin) and a whole network between Salon and Arles ; see also the museum of Salon and of la Crau.

The Merino sheep is at home in the arid Crau steppe and takes its summer holidays in the Alps.

The wild heart of Camargue

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The Countryside around Arles

La Crau

Flamingos: princely couple – not camera-shy - preparing for take-off.

Camargue farmhouses, testimony to the wish of man to dwell in the heart of the wilderness.

The CamargueA land where the bull reigns supremeThe men who raise them under the sun of the Camargue and the Crau revere Bulls

and the Camargue horses reared to drive the herds. Pure breed bulls are the reason for the abundance of white farms and ranches in the Rhône Delta. The bull meat has an AOC label. And the Corrida? It belongs to another ancient Mediterranean tradition. In the villages other bull games are popular: Camargue races, bull running or “cocarde” racing where the competitor, on foot, has to lift pom-poms and ribbons from the horns of the bulls, which are often to be seen leaping the barriers to chase after the brave, white-garbed competitor.There are also “abrivados”, when bulls are driven through the villages during the annual fetes by ranchers on horseback, and “ferrades” where young bulls are branded with a red iron. If there is an element of the Far West in all this, there is also antiquity: these games have been played since the pre-Christian Greek era. It is a fact that the Greeks of Phocea founded Marseille 2,600 years ago so were in the area several centuries before the Romans. The Camargue is a primitive and ancient land where the gods are closer to nature than to man.

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The Camargue around Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer. (day trip)From Arles, head for Les Saintes-Maries via the Château d’Avignon, an extraor-dinarily beautiful residence built by a grand bourgeois at the end of the 19th century. Next stop, explore the bird sanctuary at Pont-de-Gau: introduction trails. Lastly, visit the gypsy pilgrimage site of Les Saintes-Maries: romanesque fortified church, windsur-fing base and beaches, boat trips out to sea and along the Rhône.For an in-depth study of the environment, take the sea wall out to the lighthouses on foot or by bicycle for a better unders-tanding of the delta’s complex network of waterways. (Allow a whole day for this 20km hike/ride.)

Parks and Ranches of the Camargue. (1/2- to 1-day trip)From Arles, take the road towards Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer to the Mas du Pont de Rousty where you can visit the Musée Camarguais. Exhibitions are com-pleted by a discovery trail. Next take the road to Domaine de Méjanes to explore the world of ran-ches, bulls and horses: little train, horse riding, etc. Now border the Vaccarès Lake until you reach the Réserve Naturelle de la Capelière: introduction to the environment trails and bird wat-ching. At the end of the circuit return to Arles via the rice fields.

Discreet Camargue. (day trip)

Take the road to Port Saint-Louis, stopping off on the way to visit Van Gogh’s bridge - le Pont de Langlois... Following the path of the Roman canal from Arles to Fos-sur-Mer, turn left at Mas Thibert towards the Vigueirat marshes. Here you can see sansouires, areas colonised by vegetation adapted to salt water. Bird watching plus waterways. Visit the tower of Port-St-Louis-du-Rhône, then cross over to Salins de Giraud on the Barcarin ferry and explore the salt marshes and beaches. From the Domaine de la Palissade, guided tours of the countryside and view over the salt works. Return to Arles through the rice fields on the D36 (Rice museum).

La Crau via the Alpilles. (1/2- to 1-day trip)

From Arles, take the road towards Les Baux-de-Provence to the Montmajour Abbey and absorb its medieval past: cloisters, chapel, hermitage, etc., then drive along the south face of the Alpilles in the Valley of Les Baux (see Tour of the Alpilles) to Mouriès. From here, enter the landscape of La Crau, both dry and humid, and head for Saint-Martin de Crau : visit the village and above all the Crau Ecomuseum and the Peau de Meau Reserve. The visit can be extended to include Salon-de-Provence. Return to Arles.

Arles, the Camargue and the Crau

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OverviewThere are two sides to the character of the Martigues Sector - lakeside and seaside: the Etang de Berre occupies a large part of the region, the coast is an assortment of creeks, ports and beaches.To this physical aspect one must add the contrast between the industrial shore and the tourist shore where economic activity rubs shoulders with leisure. Lying between the two of them, Martigues assembles its whole heritage.

ClimateHot and sunny all year round with a good airing from the mistral at certain times of the year!

AccessGood access by road from all directions, Marseille-Provence Airport on the edge of the lake, railway stations in Martigues, Miramas, Arles and Marseille, sea port in neighbouring Marseille.

Martiguesand the Côte Bleue

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The occupation of one of the islands was recorded as far back as the 5th century. This lake-side community saw the fishing industry develop between the Middle Ages and the 18th century but the plague of 1720 brought considerable decline. Nowadays, the local economy

has been revitalised with the installa-tion of the chemical industry on the edge of the lake and the seashore and through the opening of a port and steel works com-plex in Fos-sur-Mer. Tourism and culture play their role in this boost for the town and surrounding countryside.

Overview and Climate

History

Boat trips out to sea, sailing club, swimming etc...,

all water sports can be practised from the town centre.

The old town centre on the water’s edge is worth a detour: walk along the canals to observe the 17th century stone-built houses and appreciate the colourful Mediterranean facades. For examples of 17th century church archi-tecture see the chapel of Notre-Dame de la Miséricorde and the Church of Sainte-Madeleine

(Provençal Baroque).Bustling, picturesque fishermen’s quarter, suspension bridge, Martigues isessentially a port.

Notable Heritage

Cesar pontem fecit. Flavien too built a bridge, in Saint Chamas, to remind us of the architectural genius of the colonisers of Provence – La Provincia Romania.

Quiet time. A rare pleasure

in a fishing port sheltered from

the wind.

The lakeside city of Martigues, at the confluence of sea and lake.

Fitness

Martigues

Known as the Venise provençale because it is built on the water’s edge between the sea and the lake, Martigues has a

population of 43,493.Summers are hot and it is sunny all year round. The mistral can blow in any season.

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Events

Local Products

Musée Ziem – archaeology and ethnology: 19th

and 20th century Provençal paintings.

Museums

Delicious fish and shellfish dishes: “Poutargue: a local caviar made from mullet eggs,

Coteaux d’Aix wines and“brousse du Rove” a soft white cheese.

Festive and Popular town: world culture festival in summer, Provençal jousting on the canals, many

water-centred festivals (sardine cookouts, Venetian festival).

Seaside heritage, a fish dish offers an image of diversity – to be preserved.

Town of Classical architecture and traditio-nal Provençal fishing port, Martigues has many facets. Enjoy a stroll along the canals.

What with the lake and the sea, water is very present indeed. A lakeside town from its beginning, Martigues’ past is 17th cen-tury classical and its present is industrial. Popular culture, feast days and festivals.

General Atmosphere

Everyday SpeechThere are as many ways of speaking in the Bouches du Rhône as there are areas!The language here lends itself to variation and local accents are not easily confused. Thus, an inhabitant of the inland Alpilles has little in common with a coastal inhabitant and the Marseille accent is quite different from the one in Aix, although there is only 30kms between the two cities! Apart from these nuances, the Provençal people use the language dramatically, irregularly, colourfully and are prone to exaggeration. Some local expressions include: “he tires me” for referring to someone annoying, “she killed me” (she bored me), a good kilo (they don’t do things by halves), “a good 15 minutes” for half an hour, “it’s death” for it’s difficult, “a monstrous mess” for a traffic jam, “diluvian rain” for heavy rain, “billions” for millions, “hard labour” for work, “it’s freezing” when it’s cold, and “it rains all the time” rather than occasionally. In any case, restrain yourself or you may be taken for a Parisian or a northerner, which roughly incorporates the rest of Europe and even further afield…

Around the Etang de BerreA vast salt water lake connected to the sea, the Etang de Berre is surrounded by beautiful country-side (towards Istres and Saint-Chamas), archaeological remains (the Pont Flavien in Saint Chamas) and typical villages (Saint-Mitre-les-Remparts, Saint-Chamas, Miramas-le-vieux), but also industrial landscapes (petrochemicals in Berre, and la Mède).In Saint-Blaise visit the archaeological site and settlement from the Neolithic period to the 16th century.

Cave dwellings in Saint-Chamas, rail-

way museum and miniature boats for children in Miramas. In Istres, there is the ancient town centre to visit, the Romanesque church, a particularly inter-esting museum of archaeology (ampho-rae) and Centre of Contemporary Art. Military Air Base since 1917.

The Côte BleueThe Côte Bleue is devoted to tourism with beaches, creeks and little ports. The most popular areas are Carro and its fun-board centre, the creeks of Ensuès la Redonne, where Blaise Cendrars wrote L’homme fou-droyé, Méjean and the

Beaches and ports of the Côte Bleue: unaffected Mediterranean.

The Unseen CicadaAccording to the people here, the cicada is Provençal, and accord-ing to Jean de la Fontaine, it sings all summer long - Wrong! This astonishing creature was well known both in ancient China and among the Indians of North America. What is more, the cicada does not sing but produces the noise as a mating call by abdominal contractions. To finish, its life above ground lasts no more than two weeks after an underground life of several years! In fact, this enchanting insect which accompanies us on summer afternoons sym-bolises the country itself: both noisy and mysteri-ous. Like buried truffles and underwater violets, the cicada is invisible to those who don’t know it. Just like Provence, it invites us to search...

beaches of Carry-le-Rouet, Sausset-les-Pins, and La Couronne.All types of water sports are practised: scuba diving in Niolon, Regional Maritime Park in Carry-le-Rouet, boat trips, fun board in Carro.Local Products fished from the Mediterranean gar-nishes the dinner tables: fish, shell fish, sea urchins and violets (sea squirts). Eldorado city amusement park for children between

Ensuès-la-Redonne and Châteauneuf-les-Martigues.An amusing way to reach the Côte Bleue is to take the local coastal train from Martigues or Marseille (works of art, tunnels).Fos-su-Mer is a large industrial port on the coast (Marseille-Fos, largest port in France), with guided tours of the industrial sites (steelworks of Sollac-Fos : guided tours for children). Don’t miss l’Hauture du vieux Fos ram-

parts, history, Roman port and medieval château.Between Fos and Martigues, in Port-de-Bouc, the Musée Moralès houses some astonishing steel sculptures.

The Countryside around Martigues

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Diving in the underwater plant community. A visit to the underwater world brings all the sensuality of a third dimension.

Waiting for the miraculous draught of fishes! In the creeks at the end of the Marseille-Martigues line.

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The Creeks and Beaches of the Côte Bleue. (day trip)

The Côte Bleue is the jewel of the Martigues region. Day trips are usually made by road but it is also possible to take the local Marseille-Martigues train.Head for La Couronne and visit the port of Carro where the fishing industry still thrives (tuna fishing). Then visit Sausset-les-Pins and Carry-le-Rouet. In these seaside villages: sea-fish-ing trips, swimming, scuba diving, sea urchins, etc... Visit the underwater world of the maritime park equipped with a snor-kel. Head for Ensuès-la-Redonne a little port and string of creeks and Méjean, far from the beaches. Make a detour to Niolon and its port for scuba div-ing. For children, stop off on the way back at Eldorado City Amusement Park

between Châteauneuf-les-Martigues and Ensuès-la Redonne.

Tour of the Etang de Berre. (1/2-day trip)

This outing starts with a visit devoted to the petrochemical industry. Either follow the coast road or take the motor-way towards Marseille, then Lyon and go directly to La Fare-les-Oliviers (olive oil) and Calissanne (wine). Now take the road along the north shore of the Etang de Berre – the route offers pretty views over the large salt water lake - towards Saint-Chamas : Roman bridge (pont Flavien), village, cave dwellings. Head for the village of Miramas-le-vieux and follow the lakeside road to Istres where you can visit the Museum of underwater archaeology. Return to Martigues via Saint-Mitre-les-Remparts : tour of the archaeological

site of Saint-Blaise, which was occupied from the Neolithic era..

The Lakes of La Crau.(1/2-day trip)

This excursion is an alternative to the previous one, combined with circuit 4 of the Arles sector. Take the road to Fos-sur-mer and visit the old village (l’Hauture). It is also possible to visit the Sollac steelworks, leader in its field. Next visit Saint-Martin-de-Crau: tour of the Étang des Aulnes, natural site protected by the département, then Saint-Martin and the Ecomuseum of the Crau, and the Peau de Meau Nature Reserve. Return via Salon, or directly through Miramas, Miramas-le-Vieux, Istres and Saint-Mitre-les-Remparts, as in circuit 2, ending with the historical and archaeological sites.

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Martigues and the Côte Bleue Sector

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OverviewThe Marseille sector lies between sea and mountains to the south east of the Bouches-du-Rhône. This is a land of contrasts. Towns have developed between the Etoile and the Sainte Baume Mountains to the north and east and the Mediterranean Sea to the south. The wide bay opens out from the jagged coastline and accounts for the mari-time calling of the city and its people since the beginning. Marseille is the oldest city and the largest port in France. The coastal landscape is characterised by sheltered creeks and islands.

ClimateThe mild coastal climate must be distinguished from the colder inland one. Generally speaking, it can be hot and sunny at any time of the year. The mistral regularly blows here, conducive to nautical activities.

AccessEasy access to the city via road, rail, sea and air. The third largest city in France, Marseille is constantly updating its infrastructures to adapt to needs encountered in large cities: TGV station in 2001, extension to the airport, improvements to the ferry service to Corsica.

Marseille

Marseille

The city itself has a population of 798,430 - over a million when one includes the suburbs. Located on a plain at the mouth of the

river and surrounded by hills, the great city of Marseille looks out across the sea: fabulous year-round views over the bay and its islands.Mediterranean climate, hot and sunny most of the year but remaining moderate due to maritime influence.

Marseille is the oldest city in France, founded by the Phoceans 600 years BC (then known as

Phocée) then developed by the Romans (Massilia) as a trading post.The city developed between the 15th and 19th centuries around the commercial port and industry (soap). Marseille is incontestably the great port of the Mediterranean, the gateway to Africa and the East. Its development was

Overview and climate

History

linked to colonisa-tion.Today, there are plans to inject new energy into the city with the Euro-Mediterranean Project.

Comex’s underwater research and activity confirm the maritime calling of the city. The port is also a departure point for cruises.

La Joliette: from here one can leave for anywhere in the Mediterranean.

From the Palais du Pharo: the heart of a port beats fastest at its entrance.

Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde watches over the fishermen. More important still, it signals the city from far off.

The Vieux Port - its forest of masts fluttering in the wind that calls from

out at sea.

Savon de Marseille – we like it as it comes, rich and raw, straight out

of the box.

Fresh fish tops the menus of the coast.

At Malmousque, if football is our religion, Zidane is its enli-ghtened prophet.

General AtmosphereA great Mediterranean port stays alive due to a constant stirring of the population. The city is founded on continuing migratory exchange, which gives it its charm and identity. But it is also a very Provençal city where the sale of fish on the Vieux Port, games of boules and cabanons represent the traditional way of life. The oldest city in France, Marseille is above all maritime, wide open to the bay, the islands and the sea itself, its most important heritage. Take a trip along the Promenade de la Corniche, the coast road from the Old Port to the Creeks.

port, (fortifications at the Saint-Jean and Saint-Nicolas forts), the commercial port at La Joliette.

Fabulous views from the 19th century Palais du Pharo.The Panier Neighbourhood: On this hill in the

city centre are the remains of the ancient town (see the Musée des Docks Romains), some beautiful classical buildings (Vieille Charité and Hôtel Dieu) and popular Mediterranean habitat, an ensemble of high contrast.

What is a bette?One often uses the word pointu (point-ed) to describe the Marseille fishing boat. In fact the initiated prefer to use the word barquette for the larger boats and bette for the smaller true fishing boat rigged with square sails, whose lateen yards make one think of some winged animal or a lobster. It is true that the 18th century boats were also known as cows or bulls at a time when machines had not yet replaced work animals. From the 12th century right up until the mid 20th, the fishermen from the Estaque or the Vallon des Auffes worked from these boats, prepared to row back when the wind dropped - which often happens here. The bay became thus the scene of coastal fishing where small fry, scorpion fish, bass, and angler fish - the vital ingredi-ents for the famous Bouillabaisse fish soup were caught. Times were hard but good for the fishermen in the time of lateen sails, or so tell the barquettes and pointus moored on the quay-sides of the ports from Les Saintes Maries to Cassis and La Ciotat.

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The city has a rich past as a port - testimony to every period of history

from antiquity to the present day: the ancient port, the old Port, the Military

Notable history

Marseilleinclude: archaeology, African Australian and Amerindian arts, exhibitions and relaxation area.The Musée des Docks Romains and nearby, the History Museum at the Centre Bourse, tell the tale of the city’s ancient past (Jardin des Vestiges at the Centre Bourse).The Musée Cantini and the Musée d’Art Contemporain are devoted to present-day art.The Musée Pastré, in a natural coastal setting, houses a

beautiful collection of earthenware.Don’t miss the Musée de Beaux-Arts at the Palais Longchamp and the Château Borély, above all for their beautiful gardens, as well as the house of a collector, the Musée Grobet-Labadié.

Important church architecture inclu-des the Saint-Victor Basilica (Early Christian to the Middle Ages, crypts), the churches of Major (Romanesque and Byzantine) and Notre Dame de la Garde, an important pilgrimage site (commemorative pla-ques) and a breath-taking view over the city and the bay.The civil architec-ture is above all marked by 19th

century Haussman style: Saint Charles station and the Palais Longchamp.For contempo-rary architecture: Le Corbusier’s Cité Radieuse on the Boulevard Michelet expresses the ideas of the great mid-twentieth century functionalist archi-tect, the Vieux Port ensemble built by Fernand Pouillon and at St Just, the Hôtel du Département designed by William Alshop. See also the villas, follies and hou-ses scattered along the coast: Villa Valmer, Villa Magalone on the Boulevard Michelet.

At the Musée de la Vieille Charité, masterly and refined classicism in the quiet of the Ancient Greek quarter.

Panoramic view of the Port and the City of Marseille (19th century). Marseille Provence Chamber of Commerce and Industry Coll.

La Vieille Charité is a remarkable museum complex of parti-cular architectural interest. Collections

Famous Figures of the Past

An Archaeological DumpIn the 18th century, the Marseille City Council introduced a rigorous system of quarantine for boats and crews suspected of carrying contagious diseases. Up to 500 ships a year were confined to the Islands of Frioul, where sailors suffering from fevers were treated at the Caroline hospital. The layers of refuse up to two metres thick accumulated over three centuries under the boats anchored in the port of Pomègues could be compared to a magnificent dump, each layer telling a story of life and death, on land and at sea. Crockery, cutlery, jam pots, glassware, even the famous Dutch pipes from Gouda dating back to the 17th and 18th centuries. Were these clay pipes so fragile as to be found by the hundred or were the pipes belonging to dying sail-ors broken before being thrown into the sea, giving us the expression casser sa pipe (break one’s pipe)meaning to die? Archaeologists continue the quest.

EventsTheme festivals for passionate spectators.Boat show and regattas for the many sail-ing buffs, the Fiesta des Suds for lov-ers of Latin

music, football, many theatres, the Santon Fair at Christmas,

Voice and Dance Festivals in the summer…

Seafood is of course very present in Mediterranean cuisine: Bouillabaisse, fish soup, grilled

sardines, shellfish, sea urchins, violets. Pastis, the city’s very own apéritif, is known the world over.The famous soap ‘le savon de Marseille’, contains natural and medicinal virtues.Other specialities are the navette, a biscuit flavoured with orange flower water, pied paquets, made from tripe and sheep trotters, and “Panier” chocolate bars.

All water sports can be practised from the town centre: sailing, windsurfing, speedboat racing, scuba diving, swimming, river and sea kayaking, beaches - Marseille offers a complete range of sports (children’s games and initiation).

Sport and Fitness

Marcel Pagnol popularised 20th century Marseille through his souvenirs of Provençal childhood and his trilogy of plays Le Verbe et La Verve locale that reveals the double-sided nature of Provençal identity – secretive and expansive.The genius of Pierre Puget is present in

the architecture of the Vieille Charité. His sculptures can be seen in the Louvre in Paris.At the end of the 19th century, Paul Cézanne and Braque were regular visitors to the fishermen’s quarter known as l’Estaque.

Sea, sail and sun - surfing the waves in the city centre.

Supreme cuisine – all tiny fruits and vegetables.

Towards Malmousque: the bay has many islands and the city is proud of its spectacular Cornichepromenade.

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Local products

Pastis: commonly known as “le jaune”- “yellow”If the Provençal coast dwellers invented Pastis rather than the wine it was surely because the apéritif is a rite here, with many followers - the apéritif is considered quite sacred. There are many varieties of Pastis, so many in fact that con-sumers order their pre-ferred drink by the make: a “Casa” for a Casanis, a “51” for a Ricard. Served with water according to taste, Pastis is drunk from small glasses. For a short strong drink, ask for a momie. If you are more interested in the flavour than the alcohol content and prefer a mix-ture – also very popular with the locals, try a “perroquet”, Pastis mixed with mint syrup, a “tomate” mixed with grenadine, or a “Mauresque” the great classic mixed with almond syrup. But be careful, if you accept a Pastis from one of the café regulars, you will be expected to buy the next round!

Museums

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Outside the city itself, the bay and the creeks provide infinite space for relaxation, sport and adventure for all tastes and ages.The sea and the islands offer cruises and excursions: the Islands of Frioul, the Château d’If made famous by Alexandre Dumas in The Count of Monte Cristo, boat trips to the Creeks of Cassis, scuba diving under the wrecks. For hikers: trails and ascent to the sum-mit of Marseilleveyre (outstanding view) and climbing in the limestone creeks.To the west, within the confines of the commercial port, the Estaque offers a gourmet stop-off with chichis-fregis (Marseille donuts).

All the towns and ports around Marseille are easily accessible by car.

The coast :

The fishing port of Cassis offers beaches, cafés, “Calanques”, boat trips, AOC wine, and a Museum of Art and Popular Tradition

La Ciotat: fishing port, Calanques (Figuerolles and Mugel), l’Ile Verte (excursions to the

island for children), the Regional Marine Park, sandy beaches (for children) and local fishing museum.Crest road between Cassis and la Ciotat (D141, spectacular view).The game of pétan-que was invented in this Provençal port immortalised by the Lumière brothers in the earliest days of cinema. Along with Marseille, Cassis and La Ciotat are the departure points for access to the Calanques via the coast.

Inland :Aubagne, town of the writer Marcel Pagnol (museum and trails), is par excellence the town of clay since Roman times: pottery and santons manufactured here (crafts-persons and workshops) (see the Route de la Terre). Venue for congresses

and fairs, the town has rich local markets to entice visitors. Tour in the footsteps of Marcel Pagnol to the sum-mit of the Garlaban Mountain (730m) and to Allauch.Gémenos, at the gates to the Sainte-Baume Mountain. Saint-Pons Romanesque Cistercian Abbey and woodland park (children), the Espigoulier Pass, the Pic de Bertagne (observation point). Remarkable ancient forest (children)

towards Mary Magdalene’ cave.Cuges-les-Pins and the OK Corral amusement park for children.Provençal Christmas and living crib in the hillside village of Allauch.In Château-Gombert: museum of art and popular tradition, world dance festival.

Sugiton is like a maritime garden for the University of Luminy: a study centre for lovers of swimming and climbing.

The town centre Calanques of Morgiou and Sormiou take on a distant air in the mornings and evenings.

Saint Pons at Gémenos: clear spring water and Cistercian

Abbey in the forest park.

Pic de Bertagne: the Sainte-Baume Mountain, its wind-beaten crests and magical forest.

En-Vau calanque: relaxation rubs shoulders with adventure.

Around Marseille The Countryside around Marseille

The “violet”Sea potatoesIf you don’t already know the violet, imagine a brown potato growing 15 metres beneath the sea! This maritime potato is in fact an animal, the sea squirt, which clings to the rock and communicates with the water via a sensitive tube. If you touch it, it retracts and disguises itself as part of the rock. And there are still more surprises in store: this rock turns out to be edible for those who enjoy unusual flavours. The orange and red flesh lying inside on a bed of mother-of-pearl has a strong iodine flavour that defies description: a wild taste for lovers of the extreme! Along with the spiky sea urchin and the strangely banana-shaped holothurian which cover the sea bed and are eaten by the Chinese, the violet is one of a family of underwater curiosities.

Château d’If and its tales: Edmond Dantès, alias the Count of Monte Cristo, lived here in the dungeon.

From crest to crest, from Cassis to La Ciotat via the cliff-tops.

“He who has seen Paris but not Cassis has seen nothing”

Pétanque from La CiotatBefore pétanque there was the game of longue. This energetic game of boules consisted of running 3 steps before releas-ing the boule. Legend has it that a certain Monsieur Lenoir from La Ciotat, who suffered from rheumatism, had the idea of inventing a different game where one could remain standing on the spot, a game of dexterity played with the feet planted firmly on the ground: Pétanque was born. The game is a pretext for a chat and discussion even if it is only about measuring the space between the boule and the jack, known here as the cochonnet. However, some players take the game more seriously and then the stakes take on a dramatic dimension approaching tragedy… just before apéritif time.

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Sea Outings.From the Vieux Port in the centre of Marseille beckon the bay and the Calanques. Allow at least half a day for each trip.

The islands of Frioul face the city. Select an outing with a stop-off at the château d’If, built in the 16th century under François I: tour of the fort and evocation of the story of the Count of Monte Cristo as told by Alexandre Dumas. Now head for Frioul, a group of two islands - Pomègues and Ratonneau: on land, visit the Caroline Quarantine Hospital built long ago to treat sailors suffering from contagious diseases. Swimming and scuba diving.Set off for a trip to the Calanques from Marseille, Cassis or La Ciotat. Fabulous views of the cliffs. Combine your excur-sion with diving or hiking or even hik-ing and sunbathing on the little beaches of the creeks.

The Calanques on foot, from Marseille to Cassis. The sheltered Calanques area is ideal for all types of hiking. Some of the most interesting walks include: a climb to Marseille veyre (lovely views), crossing the Calanques from Cassis to Marseille (long hike), excursions to the Grande Candelle from Luminy, ascent of mont Puget, exploring the creeks of Sormiou, Morgiou, Sugiton, and the belvedere En-Vau. Closer to Cassis, the creeks of Port-Pin and Port-Miou... Allow a whole day for hiking, swimming or climbing in each creek.(Ask for information about closure of the range during the summer).

The creeks from Cassis to La Ciotat.(day trip)

By car, take the coastal road to Cassis (superb views). Visit the village of Cassis: port, museum, beaches, creeks and excellent wine. Then take the spectacular crest road to La Ciotat. In la Ciotat, visit the town, the port, the museum, and the creeks of Figuerolles and Mugel. Sea trip to the Ile Verte – beautiful beaches. Return via the same road or take the motorway.

Towards Sainte-Baume. (day trip)

Take the road to Gémenos. From here, head for the parc de Saint-Pons: beautiful protected woodland, spring and Romanesque Cistercian abbey. Now take the road towards the col de l’Espigoulier from where there are gorgeous views. Go to Plan d’Aups and the Sainte-Baume forest: from the hostellerie, visit the cave of Mary Magdalene, the crest (panoramic view) and the forest (tree oils, trails, etc). Finally, come back down towards Nans les Pin and return to Marseille via Saint-Zacharie, Auriol and the motorway.

In the footsteps of Marcel Pagnol.(day trip)

This trip combines literature and sightseeing. First head for Aubagne to visit the old town: santon-makers, pottery, fairs and markets, organised Marcel Pagnol tours. Next make the ascent of the Garlaban Garlaban for lite-rary souvenirs and view. Return to Marseille via the motorway or the back roads, for example via the Musée des Arts et traditions Populaires in Château-Gombert.

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Marseille and the Calanques

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Culture and HeritagePrehistory and Antiquity

Architecture

Feast Days and Festivals

Crafts and Popular Traditions

Cultural Creativity

Gastronomy

Outdoor PursuitsWater

Natural Sites

Water Sports

Golf Courses and Driving Ranges

Hiking, Horse Riding and Cycling

Climbing and Caving

Children

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Travel Themes

Prehistory and AntiquityArchitectureFeast Days and FestivalsCrafts and Popular TraditionsCultural CreativityGastronomy

Culture and Heritage

Here in Provence all is culture and all isheritage: from the truffle to the 17th century retable, the fishermen’s feast to the music festival, the olive to the ancient temple. Testimony to the past and contemporary creation are today combined to present a wealth of diversity. These are the palettes and colours available to the artist-traveller! Choose your personal itinerary of places and pleasures!

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MARSEILLE(Massalia)

Eyguières

TARASCON(Tarusco)

St REMY(Glanum)

ARLES(Arelate)

ISTRES

SALONPélissanne

MARTIGUES(Maritima)

AIX EN PROVENCE(Aquae Sextiae)

Les Baux

Lamanon

St Chamas

Cornillon Confoux

Le Paradou

Fos sur Mer(Fossae Marianae)

St Mitre les Remparts

VernèguesSt Estève Janson

Le PuySte Réparade

Ventabren

Velaux

Meyrargues

Le TholonetSt Antonin

Châteauneuf les Martigues

FontvieilleHypogeums

Entremont

Camp de Laure

Le Rove

Grotte Cosquer

St Gabriel(Ernaginum)

V I A D O

M I TI A

V I A A U R E L I A

St Blaise(Ugium)

Pont Flavien

CA

NA

L

RO

MA

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Ancient Saltworks

Le CarreletSalt Fish (ancient factory)

Roman dam

The Salyens

World Heritage

Barbegal

Mouriès

Carry le Rouet(Incarus)

Cassis(Carsicis)

La Ciotat(Citharista)

Les Pennes Mirabeau

Beaucaire(Ugernum)

Roquepertuse

Grotte des fées

Noves

Orgon

Eygalières

Wreck

Arch Triumphal Settlement

Temple

Vestiges

Port Dolmen

Cave Prehistoric site

Museum Bridge

Aqueduct

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The presence of man in the Bouches-du-Rhône in prehistoric times is attested in the caves such as the Grotte Cosquer which was recently discovered by a scuba diver near Marseille (beautiful cave paintings dating back to 20 to 30,000 years BC), or the Grotte de l’Escale at Saint Estève Janson where there are trac-es of domestic fire.From the Neolithic period, (about 7,000 years BC), the habitat

was transformed and there is still evidence of many hillside settlements: Saint-Blaise in Saint-Mitre-les-Remparts, Saint-Antonin settlement near Aix-en-Provence, the Istres settlement and the Laure camp in Rove.

In Fontvieille there are the remains of early burial grounds: hypogeums and a dolmen.

The Entremont settlement in Aix-en-Provence tells the story of the Salyens, a Celto-Ligurian people who were fine sculp-tors (very fine stone heads at the “Musée Granet”).

Caius Sextius Calvinus and the Roman legions put a brutal end to this civilisation in the 1st century BC.

From the 6th century BC, the Phoceans brought Greek civilisation to the site of Marseille (Massalia) - the oldest city in France. They also colonised Arles and Saint-Blaise.

During the 1st century BC, Rome took control, founding Aix (Aquae Sextiae) then penetrating further into the Bouches-du-Rhône to Arles (Arelate) and Saint-Rémy (Glanum) building great the roads Via Aurelia and Via Domitia as they went.

There are still many remains from this era to be seen here: Arles is a par-ticularly well-preserved Roman town (see Arles sector) on the UNESCO World Heritage list (amphitheatre, Roman theatre, baths, underground gallery). Glanum possesses a trium-

phal arch, a mauso-leum and important remains of a Greco-Roman town.In Marseille, see the “Jardin des Vestiges” and the ancient port and in Meyrargues, the aqueduct. In Barbegal near Fontvieille, after visiting the aqueduct, see the interesting remains of an industrial mill of which a model is on display in the “Musée de l’Arles Antique”.

The Salyens The Celts known as Gauls

When the Romans invaded Provence, an industrious and courageous people already dwelt here. The geographer Strabon and Julius Cesar called them the Gauls, rather as we called the Inuit people Eskimos. In fact, Europe was at the time a Celtic culture, from Ireland to Turkey. In Provence lived the Salyens, a Celto-Ligurian people who were highly civilised, as we know from their fine jewellery and advanced farm-ing implements. These people, who lived in the Entremont settlement above Aix-en-Provence were wiped out or taken as slaves by the legions of Caius Sextius Calvinus 122 years BC. Their striking faces immortalised in the stone sculptures at the Musée Granet remind us that the inhabitants of this place were neither Gauls nor pagans, but Celts.

The Salyens, Celto-Ligurians: sculpted stone heads at the Musée Granet in Aix

The Roman temple of Château Bas on the hillside of Vernègues. The sculpted stone vines that once capped these pillars have now been replaced by living ones that produce fine wines.

Prehistory and Antiquity

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With the end of the Roman Empire in the 5th century, the early Christians started building as a way of proclaim-ing their faith: Gauguin painted The Alyscamps necropolis in Arles. All over the area, ancient crypts remain the foundations of churches, such as in Saint-Victor in Marseille or the Saint-Sauveur Baptistery in Aix-en-Provence.The Middle Ages saw cloisters and Romanesque arches flourish, includ-

ing those of the beautiful chapel of Saint-Etienne du Grès, the Cistercian Abbeys of Silvacane and Saint Pons, the church and cloisters of Saint-Trophîme in Arles, on the route of Saint James of Compostella and the fortified church of Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer. Provençal Romanesque style became soberly integrated into the environment.

The Classical and Baroque eras saw the art of building tend towards descrip-tion and decoration. The sculpted retables

village are combined such as at Les Baux-de-Provence.From high in this eyrie, social life could be contained within the walls of the citadel at the first sign of trouble.

In the 17th century, war and developing technol-

ogy changed com-mon practice and specialised forts supplanted castles. Vauban constructed these military bases all over France. The Saint Jean and Saint Nicolas forts and the Château d’If in the bay watch over the port of Marseille.

From the Middle Ages, the people of Provence forti-fied their habitat as a defence against assault: the hillside villages were thus protected from invasion, incursion and robbery.

Architecture emphasised a protec-tive element.

Castles and keeps protected nobles: the Château du Roy René in Tarascon,

the Château de La Barben, and the Chatêau de l’Empéri in Salon are fine examples. Churches were also fortified: in Les Saintes-Maries-de-la Mer, Saint Andiol, Saint Victor in Marseille and the Montmajour Abbey.

This typically medieval approach found an urban dimension in the shape of citadels where castle and

of the church in Rognes conserve rich traces of a more affected expression of faith.

See also the churches of Martigues and many others in the Bouches-du-Rhône.

Finally, in the 19th century, the cathedrals of Marseille aimed at gigantic proportions of somewhat exotic influence such as the Byzantine style Cathédrale de la Major or evenNotre