The Upper Blue Mountains Bushwalking Club Inc.,Greater Blue Mountains National Park – Blue Mountains

National Park- Bottle Neck Pass and Radiata Plateau Viewpoints- Monday 31st August 2020 – Track Notes

The valley below Bottleneck Pass. The pass entry is on the right hand side of the image. Photo: Emanuel Conomos.

Title Bottle Neck Pass and Radiata Plateau viewpointsDate Monday 31 August 2020Leader Brian FoxMaps etc NSW Department of Lands topographic Map, 1:25000, Katoomba 8930

1-S; Second edition, GPS setting WGS 84.Walk description and route

From Pulpit Hill Road check out the top of Bottle Neck Pass and search for a logbook. Then to check out viewing points on the eastern side of Radiata Plateau

Membership qualifying status

3MX

Gear issues First aid kit, 2 litres of water, electrolytes, GPS PLB, Appropriate head, and footwear

Numbers Max 12, Meeting point Meeting point and time to be given once Brian is contacted

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Transport Club Cars Close of Bookings

Contact leader

Enquiries Brian Fox brianandelaine@aapt.net.au

The Party

Brian Fox, leader, Kelvin Knox, John Fox, Michael Keats, Yidan Saladine, Geoff Fox, Emanuel Conomos, (members), new walkers to the club, Virginia (Ginny) Neighbour, and Peter Wassenaar, 9.

The Weather

A glorious sunny day with a few scattered clouds and a temperature range from 7 to 14 degrees C.

Kelvin and Yidan at the top of Bottleneck Pass. Photo: Emanuel Conomos

Background Information

1 Extract Track Notes from 9th November 2005

I will let Jim Smith in his text, “How to see the Blue Mountains” set the scene,“It is very difficult to describe in words how to get to it1, so use a topographic map and leave plenty of time to look around. The inconspicuous ‘bottleneck’ cleft is the key to getting to creek level. Go upstream to find the crossing. There is much slippery, difficult scrambling along the creek and a short length of rope is necessary. Emerging from the creek, it is possible to hug the base of the cliffs to reach the other two passes2 or go down to the valley via the six foot track”

There was a quick stop at the Nellies Glen descent to view the desecration wrought by the Blue Mountains City Council in the 1960’s (GR 488 669) and then it was through a great stand of waratahs in full flower to the track head for Bottleneck Pass (GR 0248455 6267245).

The track is narrow with at least two side- tracks tempting the unwary. The message is, keep to the right at all times. As we approached the cliff line extensive views over the Megalong Valley were impressive. At the descent point on the cliff edge, although it was only 0930 Melissa called morning tea, located the visitor book, and diligently commenced our visit entry details. GR 248051 267138.

Time was spent between mouthfuls to explore the vantage point and discover the ‘bottleneck’ cleft that leads down into the valley. From the top it all looked very straight forward, perhaps a tad steep. 10 minutes later we were into it. Those with longer legs seemed impervious to those appealing for leg extensions! All managed the initial descent without dislodging more

1 Bottleneck Pass

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than a few boulders.

Brian Fox and Steve Murray look on while Melissa Newman fills in the Log book. Top of Bottleneck Pass, 9th November 2005. The log book container is centre left hand side of the picture. Photo: Michael Keats

2 Extract from Track Notes 18th April 2011

At 0923 Graeme Holbeach completed the entry in the visitor book at the top of the slot down into Bottle Neck Pass, GR 481 671. Bottle Neck Pass is really very easy, and very short. It is the wet slushy conditions on the floor of the rain forest below it that make it memorable. In the previous 48 hours Sydney had experienced its wettest April day for 10 years… it was very wet underfoot. The unnamed creek that drains the valley was running well with normally relatively dry descents now waterfalls. 3 Place Names

Bottleneck Creek rises on Pulpit Hill Road, Katoomba and flows for 1.1km generally south into Megalong Creek. Named due to the descriptive shape of the gorge that the creek flows through. This creek contains a number of small waterfalls. Ref: Coleman, Victor. Katoomba Map, 1937. Also known as Bottle Neck Gorge which refers to the northern part of this creek system. K 485 672 to 480 662.

2 Ben Esgate Pass and Blacks Ladders

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Bottle Neck Gorge is within Bottleneck Creek and Pass, Katoomba. Sections of the gorge or canyon resemble the rounded shape and neck of a bottle. Ref: The Katoomba Daily, 10 September 1932, p. 4, describes directions to Bottle Neck Gorge. K 480 670.

Bottle Neck Lookout is located at the top end of Bottle Neck Pass, Katoomba. Ref: The Katoomba Daily, 3 May 1934, p. 1 records, “Mr S. V. Austin…one of our most enthusiastic hikers, has asked Council to inspect Bottle Neck Lookout with a view to certain improvements.” K 481 671.

Bottleneck Pass below the neck. Photo: Emanuel Conomos.

Bottleneck Pass is a natural pass through the escarpment, 520m south west of Pulpit Hill Road and Nellies Glen Road intersection, Katoomba. A descriptive name due to the narrow confines of this pass. This pass contains Bottleneck Creek and gives access to Megalong Valley. Ref: Ben Esgate, oral history, 31 October 1998, Esgate recalled that miners at the Glen Shale Mine found the pass in the 1900s. In addition, he recalled that Bill Morris, who lived in Pulpit Hill Road, used the pass frequently to reach the Megalong Valley for his bee keeping business in the 1930s. Ben recalled the pass a difficult track to use. Smith, Jim. How To See The Blue Mountains, 1986, p. 50, K 480 670

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Radiata Plateau is on a spur off the Blue Mountains Range west of Pulpit Hill, Katoomba. The plateau is bounded by escarpments. Named after the Radiata Plantation, Pinus radiata planted on the plateau as a commercial venture in the early 1960s. The publication NPWS Weeds of the Blue Mountains, 2000, p. 24 records, Pinus radiata as a noxious tree species. The plateau provides access to the Six Foot Track on the south east side and to Blacks Ladder on the northern side. Ref: Dunphy, Myles. Central Blue Mountains Map, Kurrajong Heights to Mount Victoria Northward of Western Railway Line, 1965. Previous name, Pulpit Plateau. K 474 672.

Radiata Plateau - A Once in a Lifetime Opportunity3

Approximately 756 Acres of pristine natural bush land with approved building site bordering onto the magnificent Megalong Valley and famous Greater Blue Mountains world heritage area.

Held by the current owners for the past 45 years and known to them as ‘Invincibility Point’, so named for the pristine grandeur, seclusion, and serenity of this magnificent locally and national significant, virtually untouched natural treasure. The powerful feeling of being at one with nature and the expansion of the sense that arise in the midst of this beautiful landscape is quite palpable and mesmerizing.

Brian assists while Yidan Descends, Kelvin and Emanuel act as back stops. Exiting Bottleneck Pass. Photo: Geoff Fox.

‘Invincibility Point’ is one of the largest undeveloped escarpment properties ever offered for sale in the Upper Blue Mountains. Adjoining the Greater Blue Mountains World Heritage Area (and which in the agent’s opinion deserves to be added to this awesome World Heritage area). Nature itself is fully and delightfully on display throughout the property, a wonderland

3 Blue Mountain Gazette 15 November 2019

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of diverse native flora, fauna and bird life. The boundaries extend from the end of Pulpit Hill Road to the escarpment cliff edges where one is overcome by the breathtaking, commanding views equal to the best in the world, into Megalong Valley and onward to the distant mountain ranges. On offer is a land area of approximately 304 Hectares (754 Acres) and is composed of 5 Lots on one title and one separate title Lot (89 Hectares) featuring a development approval for a residential property. Imagine for a minute your own secluded hideaway in this incredible environment and being surrounded by the beauty, the silence, the peacefulness and simultaneously the invigorating atmosphere of this iconic place, as you walk in the evening to the escarpment to witness the awesome scenery and spectacular sunsets at dusk.

One thing is clear, the new owner will have the immense privilege and honour of both enjoying and having the stewardship of this environmentally important outstanding historic land area of Australia at the top of the Blue Mountains and is unlikely to want to part with it for generations to come.

The 306-hectare property was purchased by the government for about $2.8 million and follows a 35-year campaign by the Blue Mountains Conservation Society.

Possibly the pump engine for watering the Pinus Radiata plantation. Advice from a contact of Brian’s is that it may be a 1928 Buick. Photo: Brian Fox.

Elphinstone Plateau is bounded by escarpments and is located on the Blue Mountains Range west of Pulpit Hill, Katoomba. Mount Elphinstone is located towards the western end. Named after Charles Edward Elphinstone (1898-1965), Surveyor General of NSW, 1960-1963. He was also Chairman of the Blue Mountains National Park Trust, (1959-1965). Historian Jim Smith suggested this plateau should be renamed from the current approved name of Radiata Plateau so as not to recognise/celebrate the presence of the introduced pine trees. Wyn Jones submitted a proposal to the Geographical Names Board to rename Radiata Plateau to Elphinstone Plateau on 3 November 2003, but it was not approved. Ref: Australian Surveyor, June 1961, p. 348. Smith, Jim. How To See The Blue Mountains, 1986, p.104, K 474 672.

Mount Elphinstone is a hill on the western face of Radiata Plateau, 200m north of Megalong Head and 4km west of Katoomba. Named after Charles Edward Elphinstone (1898-1965), Chairman of the Blue Mountains National Park Trust (1959-1965). During WWII, Elphinstone was engaged in emergency military mapping. Later he was involved in directing the trigonometrical survey of NSW and rose to the rank of Surveyor General, Chief Mining Surveyor and Director of Mapping of NSW 1960-1963. Ref: Dunphy, Myles. Central Blue

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Mountains Map, Kurrajong Heights to Mount Victoria Northward of Western Railway Line, 1965. K 470 668.

Ngula Bulgarabang Regional Park. Ngula Bulgarabang are Gundungurra words meaning, ‘very large wood forest’. The park is located on Radiata Plateau, Katoomba. Ngula Bulgarabang. does not replace the locality name (Radiata Plateau) which is gazetted by GNB. Ref: Blue Mountains gazette 26 June 2020.

The mechanics Geoff, Kelvin and Peter agree, “check the plugs, adjust the tappets and she is good to go.” Another1928 Buick straight 6 engine this one converted to a belt drive. Purpose is unknown but the unit appeared to be self- contained and capable of being relocated. Photo: Emanuel Conomos.

4 Historic Media reports

4.1 The Katoomba Daily 23 December 1932, p. 2, A HIKING SUGGESTION NATURE'S UNDISTURBED BEAUTY SPOT

Hikers who enjoy exploring some of the beauty spots off the beaten track, will find the Bottle Neck Gorge, well worthy of a visit. The following directions should be closely followed; — On arrival at the Marked Tree Bathurst Road), follow the Nellie's Glen track a short distance (as far as the cars can go) when a track will be seen turning to the right. There is a fairly well made road turning off before the track is reached, hut do not take that as it only leads round to the right and out on to the Bathurst Road again. Follow the track due west until another track is found, fairly taint, turning off to the left.

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A LONE GUM. Just before this turn-off is reached there is a lone gum-tree standing almost in the centre of the track, having a bent trunk. Watch out for that; the turn-off is a little further on. Follow the fairly defined track until it peters out. Keep on going in the same direction until a huge rock formation is seen on the left hand. From there bear a little to the light and work your way downwards until a large flat rock is reached. From this point a superb view of the valley is obtained, also the Bottle Neck Gorge.  Even though one does not care to venture further, the outlook from this spot is worth the trip, and can be made by any fairly good walker without trouble.

AN EASY DESCENT Leaving the flat rock work round to the right and the cut leading down to the gorge will be seen. No difficulty will be found in negotiating this cut, as a party of enthusiasts have placed a log ladder there which makes the descent quite easy. Incidentally, it took an afternoon's hard work to get the ladder in place.

A dam on the former property on Radiata Plateau.Photo: Emanuel Conomos.

4.2 Katoomba Daily 23 July 1935, p.  2.

…Mr Austin never missed an opportunity of boosting the district, and there are many evidences of his civic spirit in making steps and ladders, etc., in order that others who were unaccustomed to mountaineering, might share the delight of exploring beauty spots that lie off the beaten ' track. He was particularly interested in the Bottle-neck Gorge, (near the Marked Tree) and, if at some 'future date Council decides to provide the facilities for sight- seeing, it will be a tribute to Mr. Austin's zeal and energy.

5 Track Notes

Bottleneck Pass lies on an unnamed tributary of Megalong Creek. The small valley which it provides access is surrounded by 5m high vertical cliffs which form a succession of conjoined amphitheatres. The valley floor is clothed with dense subtropical rainforest. On this walk we stayed on the tops and made forays to various points along the cliff line.

The prime aim of the walk was thwarted as the log book container which contained documented entries for many years has been removed and not replaced. Geoff Fox replaced the box destroyed in the 2000s with a new one, but it also has gone missing. (cont. p.11)

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A J.J. Winchester drink bottle found near the dam. Winchester were a small soft drink manufacturer based in Lithgow. Photo: Emanuel Conomos.

Old structure near the dam on Radiata Plateau. Possibly it was used as a pump house. Photo: Emanuel Conomos.

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The log book container. Photo: Geoff Fox 2010. In 2020 the container has disappeared. The log book according to Geoff was in bad condition when he replaced the container that year.

Looking south from the second point, eastern side of Radiata Plateau. Photo: Emanuel Conomos.

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Old property boundary survey masker. Photo: Brian Fox.

Vehicles were parked at 0830 on Pulpit Hill Road, GR 482 675. After introductions we set off walking east down the road for about 150m, GR 483 674, where an access easement takes you south of private lands and into the national park. A very short walk east leads to a rather well-hidden but neglected pad trending south down a shallow ridge in heavy undergrowth.

At 0845 Brian stopped and recounted how one Jack Austin, in the 1920s

developed a passion for the locality and used his influence unsuccessfully, to persuade the powers that be to develop the charms of the area into a tourist attraction.

At 0845, GR 482 672 we found a cairn of rocks which marked a turnoff to Bottleneck Lookout. A visit to the lookout was made after we visited the top of Bottleneck Pass.

We arrived at the spot at 0904, GR 481 671. The view from the top is a spectacular one stretching south for many kilometres. Kanangra Walls were visible some 70+ km away. Once at the top of the pass it was time to take pictures and to descend the ‘neck’ of the bottle in ‘bottle neck’. Erosion has lowered the drop, so it is now close to 2m, so helping each other was the order of the day.

Some exploration of the lower section was undertaken. Geoff Fox reported that the amount of fallen timber and debris is now so bad that doing the complete descent is just unpleasant.

View from the second point towards the Boars Head and Cahills Lookout. Photo: Emanuel Conomos

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A 42 x optical zoom image of the site of Jacobs Ladder below Cahills Lookout. The next image is of a section of the actual ladder in situ. Taken from GR 476 670. Photo: Brian Fox.

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The disappearance of the log book container was a disappointment. I was looking forward to rereading the entry of the 9th November 2005 as well as making a new entry. It was not to be. We left the area at 0930 and made our way to Bottleneck Lookout, GR 481 671. The lookout

gives a restricted view of the Megalong Valley and an attenuated view of the western escarpment of Narrow Neck Plateau.

0947 saw us plunging through more scrub and a semi dry hanging swamp to link up with the access track back to Pulpit Hill Road, 1006, GR 482 676.

We walked past the vehicles and onto the main access road constructed to service the Megalong Trig. At 1014 we stopped on the road side to have morning tea, GR 470 675, to 1027.

1032, GR 474 673, we headed into the bush and quickly picked up a very well worn pad. A Buick, 1928, straight 6 engine mounted on a movable frame and fitted with a gear box and belt take off was seen in the bush, GR 4676 675. It is most likely that this item and many others related to the time when planting Pinus radiata was an acceptable activity.

Another similar engine apparently repurposed to pump water from a nearby man made dam was found at GR 477 673, 1040.

A soft drink bottle manufactured for J.J. Winchester soft drinks, in Lithgow was found nearby. This company was active from 1920s to pre WWII.

After recording our finds, we continued following the pad and arrived at the cliff edge GR 478 670, at 1050. What a great view across the valley as far as Cahills Lookout on Peckman Plateau. We also enjoyed special views of Mount Solitary framed by Narrow Neck and the Kure Trig.

Brian’s mind was racing ahead. Would the next headland around provide an opportunity to take a picture of Jacobs Ladder? The story of this ladder is a special project he is working on

In the centre of this image you can just discern the last complete hanging section of Jacobs Ladder. Photo: Brian Fox.

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Detail of the middle section of the wire rope ladder where it goes over the edge. Photo: Brian Fox.7th October 2019

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Plot of the walk overlaid on a topographic map. Recorded and prepared by Emanuel Conomos.

Walk plot overlaid on an aerial photo. Recorded and prepared by Emanuel Conomos

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Rock climber gear eastern cliffs of Radiata Plateau. Photo: Brian Fox.

After identifying Glenraphael Drive on Narrow Neck and the 6foot track in the Megalong Valley we went exploring this multi-headed location. By moving a few metres north east we mound an improvised survey marker, presumably installed by one of the land owners to identify his boundary. We did note evidence of bull dozed tracks and pushed up vegetation which we attribute to the establishment of the Pinus radiata plantations.

Lifting our gaze, a little further, we could identify Bottleneck Lookout and more. Within the amphitheatre shaped valley head, we identified the top of Bottle Neck Pass, Bottle Neck Lookout, the deep slot that houses the 6 foot Track, Jacobs Ladder location, Cahills Lookout, and the Boars Head, GR 478 670. Indeed, we had a whole new perspective of the area. I could now relate to Austin and his besotted-ness with the area.

We then returned to the access road, 1140, GR 478 676.and headed south west. At 1144 the road divides into four. we took the extreme east option and after a short distance at 1147, GR 476 672, left the road to follow another faint pad. Fingers crossed it would take us to the cliff edge.

Luck was with us, mainly due to the keenness of rock climbers who haunt the place. At 1155, GR 476 670, we were on another fine cliff edge with a different perspective again of the combined Megalong Valley and high points in the Jamison Valley and even as far east as the Kings Tableland.

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Descending Bottleneck Pass. Photo: Yidan Saladine

From this location Brian was able to achieve the goal of a picture of Jacobs Ladder in position. It was also time for an early lunch. What a day out! Not far but with new eyes we looked at familiar landmarks and found refreshing views.

We made it back to the vehicles at 1246 very satisfied. Total distance 3.9km, total ascents 250m

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Morning tea and a history lesson from Brian. Photo: Yidan Saladine

Michael Keats Bushexploreres 1st September 2020

UBMBWC Bottle Neck Pass and more -Track Notes 310820

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