the watches magazine #43 winter edition

suisse: 10 francs FRANCE MéTRO: 7 EuROs - BEL/LuX/POLAND: 8 EuROs - uK: £8 - A/D/GR//PORT.CONT: 8,40 EuROs - CAN: 11,95 $CAN - usA: 14,99 $us

INTERNATIONAL SWISS-MADE MAGAZINE

GUEST Séverine DesLions

Arnold & SonAudemars PiguetBell & RossBvlgariCartierCorumCuervo & SobrinosDeWittEberhardF. P. JourneFerdinand BerthoudFiona KrügerGirard-PerregauxGlashütte OriginalGraffHarry WinstonHautlenceHermèsJaeger-LeCoultreLaurent FerrierMB&FMontblancPaneraiPierre DeRochePoirayRichard MilleTAG HeuerTritonTudorUrwerkVacheron ConstantinVan Cleef & ArpelsVoutilainen

Patek PhiliPPeINTERVIEW - PORTRAITAngelo Bonati - Romain Gauthier - Sandrine Stern

Enchantment is an art

WINTER 2015

Breguet, the innovator.Tradition Chronographe Indépendant 7077The Tradition Chronographe Indépendant 7077 perpetuates the creative heritage of Breguet by interpreting it in a contemporary and innovative way. It is comprised of two entirely independent gear trains. The first, set to a frequency of 5Hz to enhance precision measurement, is devoted to the chronograph, while the second, operating at 3Hz, is dedicated to the hours and minutes. History is still being written...

L O S A N G E L E S M A C A O M I L A N M O S C O W N E W Y O R K N I N G B O P A R I S S E O U L S H A N G H A I S I N G A P O R E T A I P E I T O K Y O V I E N N A Z U R I C H – W W W. B R E G U E T. C O MA B U D H A B I B A L H A R B O U R B E I J I N G C A N N E S C H E N G D U D U B A I E K A T E R I N B U R G G E N E V A G S T A A D H O N G K O N G K U A L A L U M P U R L A S V E G A S L O N D O N

T7077_BB-Watches_460x297.indd 5-6 30.10.15 08:54

Breguet, the innovator.Tradition Chronographe Indépendant 7077The Tradition Chronographe Indépendant 7077 perpetuates the creative heritage of Breguet by interpreting it in a contemporary and innovative way. It is comprised of two entirely independent gear trains. The first, set to a frequency of 5Hz to enhance precision measurement, is devoted to the chronograph, while the second, operating at 3Hz, is dedicated to the hours and minutes. History is still being written...

L O S A N G E L E S M A C A O M I L A N M O S C O W N E W Y O R K N I N G B O P A R I S S E O U L S H A N G H A I S I N G A P O R E T A I P E I T O K Y O V I E N N A Z U R I C H – W W W. B R E G U E T. C O MA B U D H A B I B A L H A R B O U R B E I J I N G C A N N E S C H E N G D U D U B A I E K A T E R I N B U R G G E N E V A G S T A A D H O N G K O N G K U A L A L U M P U R L A S V E G A S L O N D O N

T7077_BB-Watches_460x297.indd 5-6 30.10.15 08:54

- The City, London -Piaget Altiplano 900P

The world’s thinnest Manufacture mechanical watch: 3.65 mm, a total fusion between Manufacture-made case and movement.

Piaget, the Master of ultra-thin.

piaget.com

460x297_G0A39111.indd 1 04.05.15 15:58

- The City, London -Piaget Altiplano 900P

The world’s thinnest Manufacture mechanical watch: 3.65 mm, a total fusion between Manufacture-made case and movement.

Piaget, the Master of ultra-thin.

piaget.com

460x297_G0A39111.indd 1 04.05.15 15:58

T H E U R - 1 0 5 TA

HOUR SATELLITE INDICATION WITH

AUTOMATIC WINDING REGULATED BY TURBINESUR-105TA

T H E U R - 1 0 5 TA

HOUR SATELLITE INDICATION WITH

AUTOMATIC WINDING REGULATED BY TURBINESUR-105TA

Sharmila Bertin

Cover watCh

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

PATEK PHILIPPECHronogrAPHE à rATTrAPAnTE

référEnCE 5370P

O n the white gold dial’s hand-enamelled black coating, the various features (minute track, tachymeter scale, small

seconds display at 9 and 30-minute counter at 3) are printed white so you can tell the time in an instant. Applied white gold Breguet Arabic numerals mark the hours. Two luminescent white gold leaf-shape hands track the hours and minutes. The central seconds hand is set in motion by the pusher at 2 o’ clock on the case side. Press the pusher beneath the crown at 3 o’ clock and the hand splits in two leaving the split-seconds frozen on the dial.These functions are all brought to life by the manual

wind CHR 29-535 PS calibre housed inside the 41mm platinum case. The movement provides a power reserve lasting 55-65 hours and can be admired through the watch’s sapphire crystal back.

Hermes.com

Slim d’Hermès watch in rose gold, Manufacture H1950 ultra-thin movement.

LMH_HQ • Visual: Slim Or Rose • Magazine: The_Watches_Magazine Aout (INT) • Language: English • Doc size: 230 x 297 mm • Calitho #: 07-15-110139 • AOS #: HER_01420 • EB 13/07/2015

S L I M D ’ H E R M È S , P U R I T Y I N M O T I O N .

Zenith_HQ • Visual: U16_EP8 • Magazine: Watches_Magazine 13_11_2015 (CH) • Language: English • Doc size: 230 x 297 mmCalitho #: 10-15-112891 • AOS #: ZEN_10404 • OP 21/10/2015

B O U T I Q U E G E N È V E3 5 , R U E D U R H Ô N E • + 41 ( 0 ) 2 2 311 18 6 5

B O U T I Q U E . G E N E V E @ Z E N I T H - W AT C H E S . C O M

B O U T I Q U E G E N È V E

EL PRIMEROI Chronomaster 1969

L E G E N D S L I V E F O R E V E R

Editorial

Sharmila BertinEditor-in-Chief

Goodbye 2015, hello 2016!

S o let’s see, the Christmas holidays = an annual review of our personal/professional/psychological/financial/whatever state = fiesta! = Rudolph the

red-nosed reindeer = relaxing family time = skiing in Verbier = beaches in Koh Samui = lots more! In any case, I love the thrill of the Christmas holidays but perhaps not for the same reason as most. Obviously I don’t mean the desperate and despairing panic that descends when shopping for the perfect gift or the marketing onslaught from mid-October to buy the perfect gift (bleeding our bank balance dry is compulsory.). Nor am I talking about the children’s joy at writing to Father Christmas and dressing the (poor) Christmas tree with bright baubles, tinsel made in China and other glittering bits and bobs, their eyes shining with gleeful excitement and their little fingers ready to rip the wrapping paper to shreds. That’s all very nice but it’s not what I love about the time of year (even though I love children and presents).Instead, what gets me going is the start of the watchmaking season. OK, there have been some fairs elsewhere in the world since September (Hong Kong, Mexico, Dubai, London, Paris) but my favourites are starting soon. The first is the SIHH (Salon international de la haute horlogerie) held in Geneva from January 18th to 22nd 2016. I’m particularly fond of this one because it takes place in my hometown and I think it’s fun to see Calvin’s city transform to welcome retailers, clients and journalists from all over the world. I also like how intimate it feels. It’s slightly intimidating when you first walk into the

SIHH, especially the first time. You step into an ivory cocoon (or beige labyrinth, it all depends on how many you’ve been to...) in which all the brands nestle comfortably. You explore new pieces, each one more fabulous than the last. The SIHH basically has a pinch of fairy dust and I love fairy-tales.The second, Baselworld, is completely different but equally exciting. From March 17th to 24th 2016, the Messeplatz (conference centre square) in Basel becomes a giant watchmaking ant’s nest. Bigger, more commercial and open to the general public, it’s a fairly startling fair when it’s your first time. It’s easy to get lost your first time round too. 2016 will be my 10th Baselworld and I’ve been lucky to experience both sides of it: five times in marketing and PR for an advertiser and five times as a journalist. Even though I know where all the stands are and every nook and cranny…I still get lost from time to time... ...actually, just thinking about it makes me look forward even more to 2016!

"French Lover"© Séverine DesLions

Séverine DesLions Visual artistwww.deslions.fr

Speed Boy: An Attitude to time

" What of all things in the world is the longest, the shortest, the swiftest, the slowest, the most divisible and most extended, most regretted, most neglected,

without which nothing can be done, and with which many do nothing, which destroys all that is little and ennobles all that is great?" Voltaire’s title character Zadig has already asked this question! So, what should our attitude to time be? Time, intrinsically bound to change and evolution. Without Time, nothing changes, nothing moves, nothing evolves, nothing is born and nothing dies. Without Time, the world would be but an Eternal Uniformity. I wonder.

I’m from the cartoon and comic strip generation. I spent my childhood surrounded by Hergé, Spiderman and a whole legion of superheroes. It’s one of the influences in my work that has meant that a character called Speed Boy, a superhero with a crown on his head, now appears in every single piece. Speed Boy has a message and asks us to take a step back from time’s relentless race, relax and enjoy what’s important in life. We always want bigger and better so the present often passes us by. Speed Boy could have been that Prussian prince who had ruins built in front of his castle as a daily reminder to take nothing for granted, to enjoy every minute and never lose sight of our happiness! He is a character in motion, like the hands of a watch marching forth, like our conscience warning us of the ever-present possibility of that unexpected grain of sand which could throw everything off course...But he’s primarily the hope of freezing time when life smiles upon us. We must live in the present! That’s easy to say...

I’m always in touch with my emotions when I paint. The joy of bursts of colour splashed on the canvas. I have a dream to bring distant people together, beyond walls, beyond borders, beyond oceans…I dare to dream of a future where the people of this world will be proud to recognise that their differences complement rather than clash with each other.In the meantime, every morning my superhero Speed Boy will whisper through my paintbrush that each moment should capture the dream of a day when mankind will finally have the right attitude to getting the most out of our time!

The Watches Magazine invites a new guest writer to share their vision of time in each issue.

011 Editorial012 Guest Séverine DesLions020 We love for her022 We love for him024 The Eye of Jewelry028 Vox Femina

032 Extra-special 038 Patek Philippe Cover Story048 PaneraiInterview Angelo Bonati052 Portrait Romain Gauthier054 Glashütte Original

056 Montblanc058 Van Cleef & Arpels060 Harry Winston064 Ferdinand Berthoud066 Arnold & Son068 Triton

038 Patek Philippe

THEWATCHESMAGAZINE

INSIDE

070 Fiona Krüger/Poiray071 Hermès/Laurent Ferrier 072 Audemars Piguet/ Pierre DeRoche 073 Cuervo & Sobrinos/ Jaeger-LeCoultre074 Cartier/Richard Mille

075 Corum/Bell & Ross076 Bvlgari/Urwerk077 TAG Heuer/Hautlence078 Eberhard/Tudor079 Girard-Perregaux/DeWitt080 Only Watch

THEWATCHESMAGAZINE

INSIDE

CALIBRE RM 07-01

www.richardmille.com©DidierGourdon

BOUTIQUE RICHARD MILLE GRAND HOTEL KEMPINSKI GENEVEEMBASSY Lucerne KIRCHHOFER HAUTE HORLOGERIE Interlaken MONTRES PRESTIGE S.A. Genève

PUB SP WATCHES MAG_RM 07-01 CHRISTMAS:Mise en page 1 21/10/15 17:23 Page 1

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iNTerNATiONAL sWiss-mADe mAGAZiNe

GUEST Séverine DesLions

Arnold & sonAudemars piguetBell & rossBvlgariCartierCorumCuervo & sobrinosDeWitteberhardF. p. JourneFerdinand BerthoudFiona KrügerGirard-perregauxGlashütte OriginalGraffHarry WinstonHautlenceHermèsJaeger-LeCoultreLaurent FerriermB&Fmontblancpaneraipierre Derochepoirayrichard milleTAG HeuerTritonTudorurwerkVacheron ConstantinVan Cleef & ArpelsVoutilainen

Patek PhiliPPeINTERVIEW - PORTRAITAngelo Bonati - Romain Gauthier - Sandrine Stern

Enchantment is an art

WiNTer 2015

Rédaction/EditionACE Publishing SA

Direction/Management Alain [email protected]édactrice en chef/Editor-in-Chief Sharmila [email protected] graphique/Graphic designer Christelle [email protected]/Contributors Cécile Bernardini - Tiffany Cartier-MillonSéverine DesLions - Dan Diaconu - Fabrice Eschmann - Mickael GautierOlivier Müller - Eléonor Picciotto

Publicité/Advertising ACE Publishing SAAlain Carrier [email protected] Ortolan [email protected] +41 22 752 60 12

Traduction/Translation Atenao www.atenao.comImpression/Printing FOT Suisse

Distribution Marchés principaux/Major marketsSuisse, France, Allemagne, Royaume-Uni, États-UnisAutres pays/Other countriesAbu Dhabi, Andorre, Australie, Autriche, Belgique, Brésil, Canada, Dubaï, Grèce, Hong Kong, Koweït, Maroc, Pologne, Portugal, Russie, Singapour, Taïwan, Thaïlande, Turquie, Ukraine

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La reproduction des articles parus dans THE WATCHES MAGAZINEest interdite sous toutes ses formes, sauf autorisation écrite de l’éditeur.Any form of reproduction of articles published in THE WATCHES MAGAZINEis prohibited without the prior written consent of the publisher.CopyrightTWM-THE WATCHES MAGAZINE®

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WELCOME TO THE WORLD OF WATCHES

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VELOCITYAND FLEXIBILITY

by the motorist of time

HANDS SPEED

CHRONOGRAPH CALIBRE 13¼´´´ - ETA G10.212Ø 29.80 MM - H 5.12 MMDISPLAY FLEXIBILTY - MULTIPLE COMBINATIONS

SALES QUARTZLINESCHMELZISTRASSE 16, CH-2540 GRENCHENWWW.ETA.CH, [email protected]: +41 (0)32 655 77 77

EXCLUSIVE TECHNOLOGY

(200 HAND JUMPS PER SECOND IN EITHER DIRECTION OF ROTATION)

ETA • Visual: Boxer • Doc size: 230 x 297 mm • 10-15-113165 • OP 30/10/2015

Sharmila Bertin

we love for her

VACHERON CONSTANTIN HEuRE DISCRèTE

T his year the Genevan brand is celebrating its 260th anniversary and has delved into its wealth of archives to create a new

collection. This spectacular glittering fan is part of the incredibly sophisticated and feminine Heures Créatives collection. Its softly edgy geometric shapes and pure Art Deco style are inspired by a pendant watch designed by the brand in 1919. Its white gold silhouette glitters with round diamonds and three diamond rows unfurl over the watch to delicately wrap around the wrist. Its shy

body, concealed by a fan, hides a secret. Glide your fingertips over the diamond-covered folds and Heure Discrète reveals a white mother-of-pearl dial whose décor echoes the fan. Two silver "poire" hands skim over the shimmering triangle to display the hours and minutes brought to life by the manual wind 1055 calibre inside the white gold case.

VintageRallyLIVE

YOURPASSION

tribute to Healey and classic car rallies worldwide.the roar of a finely-tuned engine. automatic Chronograph, instantly readable in ergonomic case.

More information on + 41 (0)26 460 72 50 - [email protected] www.frederique-constant.com

FC_Healey_Vintage Rally_230x297.indd 1 01.09.15 11:10

Sharmila Bertin

we love for him

MB&FLegacy Machine PerPetuaL

A fter three years of hard graft, MB&F has brought the world a new Legacy Machine to the delight of

the collection’s devotees. The latest in the LM family is called Perpetual and is the result of a collaboration between Maximilian Büsser and Stephen McDonnell, an Irish independent watchmaker who has designed a fully integrated manual calibre with a perpetual calendar complication. Hang on though! This is no ordinary 31-day PC; it’s a unique

mechanical processor based on 28 days to cover the full calendar. A miniature world lives beneath the sapphire dome covering the rose gold or platinum 44mm case. The hours and minutes are off-centre at 12 o’ clock on the white bevelled disc. Loyal to the collection’s signature features, the suspended balance wheel delicately spins above three seemingly floating rings: the day at 3, month at 6 and date at 9 o’ clock.

More information: + 41 (0)26 460 84 [email protected]

RW_Piper_230x297_The Watches.indd 1 02.11.15 11:01

Eléonor Picciotto

The eye of Jewelry

Graff Audemars Piguet

T he expression "as white as snow" is one…but that’s not all! A symbol of purity, easy to wear but especially, in

the snow with white, it’s easier to go unnoticed. As the winter chill and first flakes appear, let’s look at the timepieces that will keep us hidden in complete simplicity…or almost.

Floral design and diamond complication. Flowers are among the most popular themes in jewellery. When in the hands of watchmakers, they literally become a "mechanical revival". We’re dazzled by the gleam on the gems covering the Floral Tourbillon, Graff’s first ever complication for ladies. The tourbillon is carved into a flower and glitters with two carats of diamonds on the round facetted case. Three flowers on a mother-of-pearl dial made up of 24 marquise-cut diamonds shimmer at 8, 10 and 12 o’ clock and spin to the rhythm of the manual wind calibre. The movement not only brings to life a 72-hour power reserve but also the blue hour and minute hands shaped

like two fleshy petals and the flower-shape tourbillon. Father Christmas mustn’t delay! The Millenary Tourbillon Fleur by Audemars Piguet showcases its signature white gold oval case whose rows of diamonds dazzle like shimmering ski slopes. A snow-capped gleaming flower blossoms slightly off-centre on the dial. The rose gold hour and minute hands burst from the heart of the bloom whilst the 2940 calibre’s tourbillon spins at 9 o’ clock. The crown is topped by a rose-cut diamond. Openwork, ethereal and curvaceous, this incredibly feminine piece is 5.32 carats.

DiamonD snow

Rebellion is a young, audacious and independent Swiss high-end watch brand with authenticity, refined design, and uncompromising quality and performance. Rebellion’s

timepieces are crafted in extremely limited quantities, with precision-engineered cases and exclusive movements. All of Rebellion’s research, development and production

takes place in Switzerland, where the very highest standards are both demanded and obtained. Based in Lonay, Rebellion was launched in 2008 on the shores of Lake Geneva.

Many characteristics of the watch are directly inspired by our R-ONE car that participated in the FIA World Endurance Championship with our team Rebellion Racing.

Rebellion is a young, audacious and independent Swiss high-end watch brand with authenticity, refined design, and uncompromising quality and performance. Rebellion’s

timepieces are crafted in extremely limited quantities, with precision-engineered cases and exclusive movements. All of Rebellion’s research, development and production

takes place in Switzerland, where the very highest standards are both demanded and obtained. Based in Lonay, Rebellion was launched in 2008 on the shores of Lake Geneva.

Many characteristics of the watch are directly inspired by our R-ONE car that participated in the FIA World Endurance Championship with our team Rebellion Racing.

026 Richard Mille

Patek Philippe

White rubber and simpler complication. Richard Mille tends to be linked to a very masculine world but has surprised its fans by turning his attention to ladies. Ever faithful to its signature barrel-shape case, the brand with Brittany roots has unveiled the RM07-01, a streamlined, reworked and ultra-feminine evolution. Its spiral crown stops any foreign object from getting into the piece’s skeleton movement. Its white ceramic case topped by anti-glare sapphire crystal housing floating teardrop markers and a mini diamond-covered barrel on the translucent dial is water-resistant to depths of 50m. With its white rubber strap around your wrist, you can soak up the pool or spa with peace of mind! The equally sporty Patek Philippe Aquanaut has a different look but is quite simply a must-have. Its cushion-shape 35.2mm rose gold case with smooth corners houses a self-winding movement. The hours and minutes tick by on the white checkerboard dial which features the date at 3 o’ clock and a central seconds hand in the middle as every second counts. The watch is on a "tropical" strap on composite material (super-soft rubber) which has been seen in all its forms since it first appeared in 1997.

Boutique5-7 Rue du Rhône - Genève

4 7 M MJ U M P I N G H O U R S

026 Richard Mille

Patek Philippe

White rubber and simpler complication. Richard Mille tends to be linked to a very masculine world but has surprised its fans by turning his attention to ladies. Ever faithful to its signature barrel-shape case, the brand with Brittany roots has unveiled the RM07-01, a streamlined, reworked and ultra-feminine evolution. Its spiral crown stops any foreign object from getting into the piece’s skeleton movement. Its white ceramic case topped by anti-glare sapphire crystal housing floating teardrop markers and a mini diamond-covered barrel on the translucent dial is water-resistant to depths of 50m. With its white rubber strap around your wrist, you can soak up the pool or spa with peace of mind! The equally sporty Patek Philippe Aquanaut has a different look but is quite simply a must-have. Its cushion-shape 35.2mm rose gold case with smooth corners houses a self-winding movement. The hours and minutes tick by on the white checkerboard dial which features the date at 3 o’ clock and a central seconds hand in the middle as every second counts. The watch is on a "tropical" strap on composite material (super-soft rubber) which has been seen in all its forms since it first appeared in 1997.

Boutique5-7 Rue du Rhône - Genève

4 7 M MJ U M P I N G H O U R S

Cécile Bernardini

Vox Femina

W hilst the famous column is having a (never-ending) makeover, the watch brands are making the

most of it to get a new look. Or should that be make a clean sweep?

Paix paysIn the last few months, Mauboussin’s exit from Place Vendôme made a lot of noise. Was it peer pressure or financial brand strategy? Hard to say. It had been there since the 1950s. Mauboussin has now set up shop a few hundred metres down the road on Rue de la Paix. The name says it all. This move has meant the fine jewellery brand has divided its annual rent by ten. However, by leaving, it has abandoned its home and the last symbol that linked it to fine jewellery. As for Place Vendôme, it’s probably lost more than it thinks or would admit to. By losing an "affordable" brand, it’s become even more remote. The result is that mere mortals can

no longer have the joy or dream of shopping on the square which is now exclusive to the wealthy and well-to-do.Of course, with a 170m² shop at over 12,000 Euros/m², Mauboussin can progress with its savings alone and will reinvest 6.6 million Euros into its watch department to create no fewer than 40 new models. As for the brand, it’s a shame for Vendôme as it could have had a gateway to its sumptuous world. We expect Vendôme to shine, not to blind.

It’s all happenIng on place Vendôme!

Cécile Bernardini

Vox Femina

W hilst the famous column is having a (never-ending) makeover, the watch brands are making the

most of it to get a new look. Or should that be make a clean sweep?

Paix paysIn the last few months, Mauboussin’s exit from Place Vendôme made a lot of noise. Was it peer pressure or financial brand strategy? Hard to say. It had been there since the 1950s. Mauboussin has now set up shop a few hundred metres down the road on Rue de la Paix. The name says it all. This move has meant the fine jewellery brand has divided its annual rent by ten. However, by leaving, it has abandoned its home and the last symbol that linked it to fine jewellery. As for Place Vendôme, it’s probably lost more than it thinks or would admit to. By losing an "affordable" brand, it’s become even more remote. The result is that mere mortals can

no longer have the joy or dream of shopping on the square which is now exclusive to the wealthy and well-to-do.Of course, with a 170m² shop at over 12,000 Euros/m², Mauboussin can progress with its savings alone and will reinvest 6.6 million Euros into its watch department to create no fewer than 40 new models. As for the brand, it’s a shame for Vendôme as it could have had a gateway to its sumptuous world. We expect Vendôme to shine, not to blind.

It’s all happenIng on place Vendôme!

Boegli_PaginaxWatches.indd 2 11/11/15 17:55

Chaumet rings the changes However, some brands have grasped the importance of keeping an approachable entrance to their world. They’re not afraid of lots of projects to do so. For example, Breguet has just opened its new store and given pride of place to ladies. Its ground floor has been fully redesigned to showcase its watch and jewellery collection. It’s a good idea since 30% of Breguet’s sales come from ladies. A similar thing has happened at Chaumet. The brand is now presenting both a piece of jewellery and a timepiece, all in a completely unique museum setting. With its 50,000 archives, Chaumet will change its exhibition every six months. It’s a bold project as it’s the only brand on the square to own its building and use it to make it a place to visit…and attract more people. The last project to bring the masses to Place Vendôme comes from Poiray. Some treat themselves to a Rolex for their 40th but this brand treated itself to one night at Hôtel d’Evreux. The 40 year old is slowly but surely carving its way on the Place with values that are rare to find: charity, generosity paired with beautiful and affordable collections. Let’s hope that the gamble will pay off! Museum Chaumet

Hôtel particulier Chaumet

Chaumet rings the changes However, some brands have grasped the importance of keeping an approachable entrance to their world. They’re not afraid of lots of projects to do so. For example, Breguet has just opened its new store and given pride of place to ladies. Its ground floor has been fully redesigned to showcase its watch and jewellery collection. It’s a good idea since 30% of Breguet’s sales come from ladies. A similar thing has happened at Chaumet. The brand is now presenting both a piece of jewellery and a timepiece, all in a completely unique museum setting. With its 50,000 archives, Chaumet will change its exhibition every six months. It’s a bold project as it’s the only brand on the square to own its building and use it to make it a place to visit…and attract more people. The last project to bring the masses to Place Vendôme comes from Poiray. Some treat themselves to a Rolex for their 40th but this brand treated itself to one night at Hôtel d’Evreux. The 40 year old is slowly but surely carving its way on the Place with values that are rare to find: charity, generosity paired with beautiful and affordable collections. Let’s hope that the gamble will pay off! Museum Chaumet

Hôtel particulier Chaumet

EmbracE t imEOur story, our brand, our passion. carole & Pierre Dubois

PiErrE DErOchE - LE rEvErs 1 - 1345 LE LiEu - switzErLanD - t. +41 21 841 11 69 - www.PiErrEDErOchE.cOm

carole and Pierre Dubois. a love story that gives a unique beat to their lives and their watch creations. Pictured here, two his and hers world-exclusive royal retro models with their six dancing retrograde seconds hands.

Sharmila Bertin

Extra-spEcial

W hen you think of watchmaking, you automatically think of watches, the timepieces you lovingly wrap

around your wrist in the morning after getting dressed and regularly look at, especially when you’re having a long and busy day.

However, it’s a broad sector. It includes a number of devices outside the wristwatch such as pendulum and mantel clocks, wall and table clocks, marine chronometers and more. As described by the professional illustrated watchmaking dictionary that we fondly refer to as “the Berner” in the industry, watchmaking is “the science, art, industry and trade of devices used to measure time.” With this in mind, why not devote a bit of space in the pages of this issue to showcase timekeeping devices that aren’t wristwatches? Especially since certain designers have bags of imagination and not to delve deeper would be a real shame. Here’s the proof:

Melchior, the robot character by MB&F Look out, the super-creative brand from Maximilian Büsser has done it again! Is it a kinetic-futuristic super Avenger figurine? Is it a toy for big kids? Or is it a wise man for the third millennium? Seeing Melchior is delving back into your childhood. Luckily for me, as the eldest sister in a big group of boys, the world of Majorette cars and robots is sort of my thing.MB&F and clock brand L'Epée joined forces to celebrate the Genevan brand’s 10th anniversary and Melchior came out of their partnership. It weighs 6.3kg, is just over 30cm high and stands on two chunky Grendizer-style metallic legs. This is one big baby! A manual wind heart beats within its steel armour designed by L'Epée whose five cylinders not only provide a 40-hour power reserve but also display jumping hours, trailing minutes, retrograde seconds and battery life. That’s basically it for the technical side.

How about looks? It’s so hard to resist the charming Melchior! Its glass dome head protects the brain-come-regulator. Its eyes are two rotors displaying the seconds in 20-second segments. Its chest plate has two discs displaying the hours (left) and minutes (right). The power reserve indicator is wrapped around its waist. Melchior’s arms are different: its left arm has a rocket-style projectile (ready for any intergalactic war!) and the right arm has a Gatling machine gun. Of course, the weapons are fake and the rotating gun is in fact a removable key so you can wind Melchior’s heart and reset the time.

When clocks turn the tables

Sharmila Bertin

Extra-spEcial

W hen you think of watchmaking, you automatically think of watches, the timepieces you lovingly wrap

around your wrist in the morning after getting dressed and regularly look at, especially when you’re having a long and busy day.

However, it’s a broad sector. It includes a number of devices outside the wristwatch such as pendulum and mantel clocks, wall and table clocks, marine chronometers and more. As described by the professional illustrated watchmaking dictionary that we fondly refer to as “the Berner” in the industry, watchmaking is “the science, art, industry and trade of devices used to measure time.” With this in mind, why not devote a bit of space in the pages of this issue to showcase timekeeping devices that aren’t wristwatches? Especially since certain designers have bags of imagination and not to delve deeper would be a real shame. Here’s the proof:

Melchior, the robot character by MB&F Look out, the super-creative brand from Maximilian Büsser has done it again! Is it a kinetic-futuristic super Avenger figurine? Is it a toy for big kids? Or is it a wise man for the third millennium? Seeing Melchior is delving back into your childhood. Luckily for me, as the eldest sister in a big group of boys, the world of Majorette cars and robots is sort of my thing.MB&F and clock brand L'Epée joined forces to celebrate the Genevan brand’s 10th anniversary and Melchior came out of their partnership. It weighs 6.3kg, is just over 30cm high and stands on two chunky Grendizer-style metallic legs. This is one big baby! A manual wind heart beats within its steel armour designed by L'Epée whose five cylinders not only provide a 40-hour power reserve but also display jumping hours, trailing minutes, retrograde seconds and battery life. That’s basically it for the technical side.

How about looks? It’s so hard to resist the charming Melchior! Its glass dome head protects the brain-come-regulator. Its eyes are two rotors displaying the seconds in 20-second segments. Its chest plate has two discs displaying the hours (left) and minutes (right). The power reserve indicator is wrapped around its waist. Melchior’s arms are different: its left arm has a rocket-style projectile (ready for any intergalactic war!) and the right arm has a Gatling machine gun. Of course, the weapons are fake and the rotating gun is in fact a removable key so you can wind Melchior’s heart and reset the time.

When clocks turn the tables

PAM00641 PAM00651034

Panerai’s glass baubleWhen you think of a table clock, the first thing that pops into your head (well, mine anyway!) is a rectangular device oozing 70s style on a desk or bedside table. Well, here’s a surprise! Perfectly spherical, as light as air, easy to read and, we have to say, incredibly elegant, the Table Clock by Panerai looks like a piece of contemporary art.The hours and minutes on this clock are brought to life by a manual wind P.5000 calibre made entirely in Switzerland by Panerai. There’s no need to fiddle with the oversize crown on a daily basis as the powerful movement provides an 8-day power reserve. The mineral glass sphere is 65mm in diameter and you can see the movement through the back. The transparent steel-rimmed setting

conceals a black dial available in two versions. The first model (PAM00641) is the most classic and understated of the two, you could call it the most Panerai! It has a so-called "sandwich" dial whose multi-layered design is inspired by the 1930s. The hour rim features dots and baton indices at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’ clock.The second model (PAM00651) has a slightly busier display (and we mean slightly!). The black California dial is surrounded by a minute track and perked up by an orange hour rim alternating between Roman numerals (1, 2, 9, 10 o’ clock), Arabic numerals (4, 5, 7 and 8 o’ clock), baton indices (3, 6 and 9 o’ clock) and a triangular marker (12 o’ clock). The nickname California goes back to the 80s when this type of dial blending different "types" of digits was very popular in the Golden State.

There’s no embellishment, no aesthetic excess: just time in all its simplicity…and glory!

PAM00641 PAM00651034

Panerai’s glass baubleWhen you think of a table clock, the first thing that pops into your head (well, mine anyway!) is a rectangular device oozing 70s style on a desk or bedside table. Well, here’s a surprise! Perfectly spherical, as light as air, easy to read and, we have to say, incredibly elegant, the Table Clock by Panerai looks like a piece of contemporary art.The hours and minutes on this clock are brought to life by a manual wind P.5000 calibre made entirely in Switzerland by Panerai. There’s no need to fiddle with the oversize crown on a daily basis as the powerful movement provides an 8-day power reserve. The mineral glass sphere is 65mm in diameter and you can see the movement through the back. The transparent steel-rimmed setting

conceals a black dial available in two versions. The first model (PAM00641) is the most classic and understated of the two, you could call it the most Panerai! It has a so-called "sandwich" dial whose multi-layered design is inspired by the 1930s. The hour rim features dots and baton indices at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’ clock.The second model (PAM00651) has a slightly busier display (and we mean slightly!). The black California dial is surrounded by a minute track and perked up by an orange hour rim alternating between Roman numerals (1, 2, 9, 10 o’ clock), Arabic numerals (4, 5, 7 and 8 o’ clock), baton indices (3, 6 and 9 o’ clock) and a triangular marker (12 o’ clock). The nickname California goes back to the 80s when this type of dial blending different "types" of digits was very popular in the Golden State.

There’s no embellishment, no aesthetic excess: just time in all its simplicity…and glory!

TheWatches_MissGB_230x297mm.indd 1 12.11.15 16:26

Imperiali and the magic boxPicture yourself one evening after a hard day’s work having a relaxing drink with a colleague. “What would you do if you won the Euromillions?” The conversation takes off, plans come together, dreams are described then suddenly, bam! Out comes the idea that will change everything because it’s unique and doable! That’s sort of what happened to our two heroes, David Pasciuto and Stéphane Nazzal, founders of Genevan brand Imperiali.What was their crazy idea? To create the most complete, the most mechanically and technologically accomplished, the most luxurious and exclusive cigar chest ever in the world: Emperador. Because this beast (70cm long, 45cm wide, 30cm high) costs the trifling sum of one million Swiss Francs and only 12

are made every year. The two entrepreneurs called upon 27 different trades to make it. This toy for billionaires is unlocked using a secret code which, once entered, provides access to 24 cigars wrapped in gold leaf, stored in glass tubes and laid out in a double thickness star. A small table clock lies in the centre of this golden sun. The fitted timekeeping device can be seen through a window even when the huge chest/safe is closed and features a flying tourbillon at the bottom of its Clous de Paris engraved black dial. It automatically recharges each time it is opened. Unfortunately, that’s all we’ll ever know about the clock’s technical design and its designer. A hatch opens the depths of the chest and produces three accessories: a guillotine or punch cigar cutter, a table lighter

with three nozzles and an intuitive ashtray which opens when you and your cigar draw near.

Imperiali and the magic boxPicture yourself one evening after a hard day’s work having a relaxing drink with a colleague. “What would you do if you won the Euromillions?” The conversation takes off, plans come together, dreams are described then suddenly, bam! Out comes the idea that will change everything because it’s unique and doable! That’s sort of what happened to our two heroes, David Pasciuto and Stéphane Nazzal, founders of Genevan brand Imperiali.What was their crazy idea? To create the most complete, the most mechanically and technologically accomplished, the most luxurious and exclusive cigar chest ever in the world: Emperador. Because this beast (70cm long, 45cm wide, 30cm high) costs the trifling sum of one million Swiss Francs and only 12

are made every year. The two entrepreneurs called upon 27 different trades to make it. This toy for billionaires is unlocked using a secret code which, once entered, provides access to 24 cigars wrapped in gold leaf, stored in glass tubes and laid out in a double thickness star. A small table clock lies in the centre of this golden sun. The fitted timekeeping device can be seen through a window even when the huge chest/safe is closed and features a flying tourbillon at the bottom of its Clous de Paris engraved black dial. It automatically recharges each time it is opened. Unfortunately, that’s all we’ll ever know about the clock’s technical design and its designer. A hatch opens the depths of the chest and produces three accessories: a guillotine or punch cigar cutter, a table lighter

with three nozzles and an intuitive ashtray which opens when you and your cigar draw near.

Sharmila Bertin

Cover story Patek PhiliPPe

039038

Philippe Stern & Thierry Stern

S ince its foundation on May 1st 1839, Patek Philippe has been known for its workmanship, legacy and exclusivity.

The Genevan brand was taken over by the Stern family in 1932 and is now one of few independent companies to design, develop and produce its own timepieces which gives it creative freedom and a focus on technical innovation. It has also been expanding at a significant rate for almost 20 years. In 2014, the brand based in Plan-les-Ouates in the Geneva canton celebrated its 175th anniversary and unveiled a host of captivating timekeeping devices to the whole world. This year, Patek Philippe is strengthening its foothold in Geneva with a new 50,000m2 building (usable area out of a total of 110,000m²) spread over six floors plus four basement levels near its current factory. The site will also pool together all the brand’s departments and will have spare room for the next 20 or 30 years. The plan was

announced in January 2015 and construction is due to be completed in 2018 after the first stone was laid on October 15th this year. Philippe Stern and his son Thierry Stern, Chairman and CEO of Patek Philippe respectively, alongside architect François de Marignac, Mayor of Plan-les-Ouates Xavier Magnin and state councillor for the Canton of Geneva Antonio Hodgers put on their hard hats, hi-vis jackets and spades to lay the cement for the future site’s foundations. The building has a budget of 500 million Swiss Francs (450 for the construction and 50 for the technical fittings) and aims to expand new departments and strengthen knowledge transfer so dear to Patek Philippe. These goals are based on four areas: innovation with new testing laboratories, service (including manufacture, storage and restoration), apprenticeship to train new watchmakers and sales reps and, last but not least, Rare Handcrafts, a new department made up of forty people with a training centre

which will be home to age-old artisan and artistic expertise which, unfortunately, is gradually disappearing nowadays.

Preserve the Past and build the future

Sharmila Bertin

039038

Philippe Stern & Thierry Stern

S ince its foundation on May 1st 1839, Patek Philippe has been known for its workmanship, legacy and exclusivity.

The Genevan brand was taken over by the Stern family in 1932 and is now one of few independent companies to design, develop and produce its own timepieces which gives it creative freedom and a focus on technical innovation. It has also been expanding at a significant rate for almost 20 years. In 2014, the brand based in Plan-les-Ouates in the Geneva canton celebrated its 175th anniversary and unveiled a host of captivating timekeeping devices to the whole world. This year, Patek Philippe is strengthening its foothold in Geneva with a new 50,000m2 building (usable area out of a total of 110,000m²) spread over six floors plus four basement levels near its current factory. The site will also pool together all the brand’s departments and will have spare room for the next 20 or 30 years. The plan was

announced in January 2015 and construction is due to be completed in 2018 after the first stone was laid on October 15th this year. Philippe Stern and his son Thierry Stern, Chairman and CEO of Patek Philippe respectively, alongside architect François de Marignac, Mayor of Plan-les-Ouates Xavier Magnin and state councillor for the Canton of Geneva Antonio Hodgers put on their hard hats, hi-vis jackets and spades to lay the cement for the future site’s foundations. The building has a budget of 500 million Swiss Francs (450 for the construction and 50 for the technical fittings) and aims to expand new departments and strengthen knowledge transfer so dear to Patek Philippe. These goals are based on four areas: innovation with new testing laboratories, service (including manufacture, storage and restoration), apprenticeship to train new watchmakers and sales reps and, last but not least, Rare Handcrafts, a new department made up of forty people with a training centre

which will be home to age-old artisan and artistic expertise which, unfortunately, is gradually disappearing nowadays.

Preserve the Past and build the future

Sharmila Bertin

THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015 THE WATCHES MAGAZINE - WINTER 2015

041040

T ell us about how you started at Patek Philippe. How did you come to the watch world?

From an early age I wanted to work in gemmology so I looked for temporary work to fund my studies. Through a massive coincidence which worked out for the best, I found a job at Patek Philippe which led to a permanent contract in the marketing department in early 1996. I stayed in the same division for a while before taking a budget control role in the sales department. The accounts side helped me learn how the sales network and analysis works. I worked in this position until 1998.In 1998, Thierry Stern suggested I join the Design department with him. The department needed to be reorganised and the focus was on continuing to work in new collections. I was Design assistant and our department had a team of three at the time. I was then made Head of Design for ladies’ watches then Head of Design for special editions before becoming Design Director and responsible for men’s, ladies’ and special collections including enamelling, engraving and any form of Rare Handcrafts.

Why choose design and Rare Handcrafts specifically? Have you had special training?My passion for this sector goes back to my childhood and my father’s profession as a jeweller. What I loved was to watch him work and see jewellery being designed, see a simple idea become a reality and a basic piece of gold be moulded and sculpted. Creating a dream from a design.I didn’t "fall" into watchmaking; I was born into it.Before he was a jeweller, my father graduated in precision engineering and managed a team of gem-setters and jewellers in a small company which made fine watch cases and other pieces for major Swiss brands. I loved going to the factory with him when he could take me.He then set up as a jeweller. Again, I was there and even worked with him. That’s what made me want to continue down this road.

What is your role today? What is a typical day, week or month? How many people do you manage?

My role, if we can call it a role, is to provide opportunities to the artisans who work at Patek Philippe as well as independent artisans so they can keep their talent alive and put their art into Patek Philippe’s watches in the most wonderful way. Every day is different which suits me perfectly as routine isn’t for me. We talk, devise, work out and create a new piece on paper every day. It’s an incredible job in complete contrast with my other role in the main collection’s watches.Although both are linked by the quality, detail and beauty of each product, the main collection’s watches are for people who appreciate beautiful watchmaking and its techniques whilst the others are for those who love art and age-old techniques. I now manage fifteen people. It’s a small but effective team, which is the most important thing.

How will the new Plan-les-Ouates site affect jobs in design and especially Rare Handcrafts?In terms of our current output, our jobs won’t intrinsically change and apart from potentially a different location, it won’t affect our day-to-day work.In terms of safeguarding jobs in Rare Handcrafts, it is Patek Philippe’s duty to provide an opportunity for artisans with a creative drive in Rare Handcrafts. We shall provide training to ensure that rare crafts such as engraving, cloisonné enamelling, miniature enamelling, guilloché enamelling and inlaying don’t disappear through a lack of training options.Last but not least, the new site is a fantastic way to showcase the quality of our manual expertise to our clients, retailers and the press and host tours to introduce true Rare Handcrafts compared to the industrial output that we’re seeing all too often in the market in recent years. Just one trip to the Patek Philippe Museum is all you need as proof that these trades are being kept alive. We are proud to play a key role in promoting traditions which add the finishing touch to the piece.

What type of client is interested in/wants to own a Rare Handcrafts piece?Owning a Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts piece primarily means falling in love with a technique

such as engraving, inlaying, enamelling, blended techniques bringing together different crafts, a subject or colour. This client also trusts the quality of our piece which he hopes to own for himself, driven by his passion and with future generations in mind. The interested client appreciates beautiful, unique or rare items. This client also likes the magic conjured up by Rare Handcrafts on our watches to make them into works of art. Since our creations tend to be limited edition to ensure the best quality, it’s always hard to part with the watches as we’ve spent months working on them!That’s why each and every client is carefully selected by the Stern family as a guardian of its exceptional expertise!

sandrine stern: "i didn’t fall into

watchmaking; i was born into it"

Almost twenty years after joining the Genevan company, Sandrine Stern is now Design Director at Patek Philippe and married to its President, Thierry Stern. The first lady of watchmaking answered some questions by The Watches Magazine about how she started, her passion for design and for Rare Handcrafts. What a journey!