A S U M M E R I N S K Y B ,

T H I R T Y Y E A R S H E N C E .

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DAY1D ROSS, M . D . , & L . R C . S . , E D M .

* * E D I N B U R G H :

P R I N T E D B Y R O B E R T A N D E R S O N

M D C C C L X V I .

P R E F A C E

THE following lucubration has been printed

under the auspices of the " Portree Mutual Im­

provement Association," at whose Third Annual

Soiree it was delivered as an address. It has,

doubtless, many faults,—even its title is a mis­

nomer, (and, the Athenaeum might add, a

plagiarism), but amid all the local allusions,

the writer trusts that he has succeeded in his

wish scrupulously to eschew everything that

might give just cause of umbrage to any one.

A S U M M E R IN S K Y E,

T H I R T Y Y E A R S H E N C E .

0

C H A P T E R I .

Rip Van Winkle Redivivus.

** In melancholic fancy, Out of myself,

In the vulcan dancy. All the world surveying, Nowhere btaying.

Just like a fairy elf.

Out o'er the tops of highest mountains skipping. Out o'er the hills, the trees and valleys tripping, Out o'er the ocean seas, without an oar or shipping,

Hallo ! my fancy, whither wilt thou go V

W I L L I A M C L K L A N D .

ABOUT the beginning of January 1866, I rose •somewhat earlier in the morning than is m y wont, with the purpose of having a view of Portree from the top of Aile-Suidh Fhionn, the well-known hill to the west of our harbour. In common with several worthy individual*, I had long admired the wide and

. varied prospect obtained from this hill in summer, and had often wondered that it was in general so little.known, aud so little appreciated. A s yet, however, I had not seen it draped with the accessories of winter, and this it was made me brave the cold and discomfort of early rising. I was sensible also of that g l o w of self-satisfac­tion and superiority over my more somnolent neighbours, which is more or less characteristic of all early ri^eiia.

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The blustering winds and heavy rains, with which the old year went out, had now been succeeded by heavy falls of snow. Then there was a pause,—neither wind nor shower came from the sky, and the land seemed in silence to await the next change. Meanwhile the whole landscape was one crumpled sheet of snow, which, like ivy over a ruin, or charity over a multitude of sins, covered and concealed many an ugly feature. The air was too cold, however, to admit at first, of minute o b ­servation, and I merely noted, while hurrying on to in­crease m y animal heat, that our bay looked in the sur­rounding landscape, like an ugly ink-blot on a sheet of white paper, that runnels of ink ran down the hill-sides, and that there was a general muffling of sound and echo. Silence reigned, or was relieved only by the chittering of a few birds, tame and penurious looking, yet cheery withal. I thought of these poor " tenants of the air," and of the " ourie cattle,'' and "s i l ly sheep," and the hard times they had of it among leafless twigs, or on bare hill-side. Nor did the lower creation alone engage m y p i t y ; 1 could not but remember that many of m y poor fellow-mortals, though better sheltered from the winter blast than the birds and cattle, yet with higher capacities and wants, and with more delicate organisms than they, were really suffering as much from the sharp tooth of winter. Musing thus, I toiled up the hill, and halted on the top to enjoy the scene. Hill and plain, sea and island lay before me,—the Coolin peaks, the Storr pil­lars, the placid bay, and the wooded Lump, which looked like a faithful watch-dog on duty, protecting the white village that nestled behind it. The scene was a familiar one, but like the only other place which retained an equal impression on my mind, I mean, Edinburgh, was one that to me never grew stale. 'It was very absurd, to be sure, but I began to draw analogies between the two places. Thus, the one was the capital of Scotland, and the other was the (as I fondly believed) future capital of the H e ­brides. Then again, the history of both was intimately

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connected with Royalty and the Stuarts. It was no fan­ciful conceit of this sort, however, but recollections of its manifold beauties at different seasons, and roseate remi­niscences of happy days and pleasant companions that filled my mind, and made me exclaim in the words of Fitz-Eustace (Lord Marmion"s Squire) when he looked on Edinburgh,

" Where's the coward that would not dare To fight for such a land ! "

Yet , alack the day ! where were those friends ? Some slept in yonder old kirk-yard, hut how many too, were, in a sen^e, buried abroad ? W h y was this? Were there no re­sources in our island, the development of which might occupy the energies of its sons, spread comforts among the people, and diminish considerably, if not indeed annihilate, the necessity for emigration from its borders ? Such were m y musings, as I pursued m y way to the cairn whence the Outer Hebrides could be descried, painted like a dim cloud on the sky. The way was long, rough, and full of pits in the peaty bog. Whether it was from fatigue, or that drowsy feel peculiar to snow travel, I know not, but I felt strongly inclined to rest; and Bnding a little hillock, I sat down on a tuft of heather, and continued to muse on Skye scenery, and Skye second-sight, Skye poverty, and Skye's prospects. These were blended together in admirable confusion, so that I found myself wishing 1 had as much (quantum stiff.) of the gift of second-sight as would show me h o w Portree and its people looked twenty or thirty years hence. I suspect that in my phantasmagorial state, I had given audible utterance to this wish just at the moment when a cloud from the Nor ' -Wes t came creeping round the hillock, and enveloped me. Conceive m y surprise when, like one of Ovid's Metamorphoses, a portion of the cloud gradually assumed a human-like form. A t first, I thought this, and a soft music, like that of an jEolian Harp, which also came from the cloud, •were the produce of distempered fancy, but I speedily dismissed this view, for, quicker than I can tell it, a

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venerable form, with mild, benignant eyes, ample beard, and wildly-flowing hair, stood beside me. A long loose robe enveloped his person, and a girdle bound it round his middle, from which girdle depended a harp of curious antique form. In his right hand was a long cup of wood , beautifully carved, and spotted here and there with knobs of silver. This, filled with a ruby liquid, he offered me, intimating that 1 was to drink it. I hesitated; but the day was cold, the nectareous liquid was tempting, the benign phantom was reassuring, and not knowing well what 1 did, I took a long draught. I remembered no more till, with a sudden start, 1 woke from my dreamy state, and found myself alone on the hillock heather, with no cloud nor phantom near me, and no snow either. I marvelled much at the snow's rapid disappearance, and upbraided my own folly in giving way to sleep under the open sky. The sun was now high in the heavens, and I returned, musing on m y vivid dream,—for such I considered it. Coming down the hill, I was startled to see two tail chimneys pouring out clouds of smoke, and other unmistakeable signs of a factory, on the site of the Totahoig " fank." A t first, 1 took this for a mirage, but as I sped on m y way , fresh wonders presented themselves, and grew thicker, and more startling, every few steps 1 made. Could m y eyes believe it ? There was a gentle­man's neat villa in the midst of a plantation of young trees, a little above thfi shepherd's house, at Culishadder. There was another above Peter M 'Gregor's. Yonder was a town many times the size of the village I had left in the morning, with the noont ide sun flashing on its myriad windows, and with a noisy hum of labour from its midst and vicinity, very different from the rural sound or stillness that formerly prevailed. Formerly prevailed, did I say ? but could it be actually the same Portree I was familiar with ? I could not doubt that it was, for yonder was Bendeanvig, and the Lump, and the unique-shaped Storr, and the unmistakeable Loch . True, into that same Lock here rojected from the L u m p a long dark

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something, with which I was not familiar, and the nature of which I did not understand. But indeed, I began to despair of understanding anything; I was be ­wildered, and in the utmost confusion of mind I lay down on the green grass by the road side. Suddenly, an idea struck me. I had been reading the story of Rip Van Winkle , some time before, and I was now convinced that what I had seen on the top of the hill, was not a dream at a l l ; and that the draught from the aged seer's cup had exercised a mysteriously potent influence over me, the nature or full extent of which 1 did not know, hut guessed that it had caused me to sleep, and then made me awake when the world was some years older than I had known it. That, in truth, 1 had got m y wish, but in a way I had not bargained for. True, I knew nothipg in Science or Philosophy which indicated in the slightest how this could be, but then, I remarked, with praiseworthy modesty, that really the range of my know­ledge was very limited, and then 1 quoted with cordial approbation, as settling the whole matter,

*' There are more things in heaven and earth, H O R A T I O , Than are dreamt of in your Philosophy."

These reflections restored some order to m y thoughts, but anxiety about the possible changes that had taken place in m y absence now prevailed, so that 1 scarcely took note of anything, but hurried on through strange streets, and unfamiliar lanes, until 1 reached the back­yard of the old " Royal ." I entered,—strange servants met me,—I got into a small room, and sent for the land­lord. In painful suspense 1 await his appearance,—the door opens.—Ha ! It is as I dreaded,—a stranger stands before me, wondering at m y excited state. I told him m y story, and then I learnt, what indeed I was in great part prepared to hear, that fully thirty years had passed over Portree since I had last seen i t ; and that many, many changes, had occurred since then, in which of course, m y own friends had shared. This friend, I found on inquiry, had died nine years before; that one was a

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farmer in Canada, and so on. A t last I asked after a John Robertson, a merchant. " Let me see,—why that must be Bailie Robertson you mean ? Oh dear, yes, we all know him, and a worthy man he is too." " Where does he live V " In 3 Gesto Terrace;" and thither accordingly I went, under the guidance of a Iad of the worthy land­lord's. After passing through Corriechatachin Avenue, we stopped before a massive range of building. Opening a small iron gate, and ascending a few stone steps, I saw N o 3 in Roman capitals, on the door, and rang the beil. When m y friend entered the room, to which his servant consigned me, I scarcely knew him. He had a round fleshy face, and a small whitey-hrown beard; and a few hairs straggled from beneath a plain skull cap, which he wore. A m i d the j o y of recognition, I could not but mutter professionally to myself, as I looked on his FalstafBan abdomen, and a decided venosity about his c h e e k s , — ' ' H a ! rich feeding,—mock turtle,—tendency to gout." M y friend could scarcely believe his eyes when he looked on me, the very same person, and not one whit altered in looks or costume, from the fellow he had known thirty years before. Y o u may depend w e had a long chat that night ; for my story, if not a long, was a strange one, and my friend and his wife had news and stories innumerable, of the changes that the passing years had brought in their train. Next morning I found the town all astir with m y story, and disliking this sort of publicity, and wishing also to see m y friends in Strath, I set off in the " Flora M'Donald" steamer, to BToadfoTd, promising to return soon to Portree. A s I stepped on board, I bought from a newsboy, for a penny, the "Portree Gazette, or Hebridean Mirror," newspaper of that day, M a y l i t h , 1896. W e had a fine breezy day, and soon reached Broadford, where I had a happy reunion with m y friends, to whom niy disappearance thirty years before, had ever been a mystery. I shall not, however, give you any more details about myself, except when necessary, but prefer to tell you the changes I saw in Skye , during the two months and seventeen days I spent there.

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C H A P T E R I I .

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Ski/e, the winged isle, makes good use of her wings.

Clann n a n Gael, ri guailibk a cheile.

1 POUND Broadford to be a busy, rapidly growing place, with its quarries of much-prized marble, and its l ime­kilns. Oyster-cultivation was brought to great perfec­tion in the Sound of Scalpa, and Loch Eynort, and like the Lobster-Fisheries of Skye, begun by strangers, had merged entirely into the hands of natives. I went b y rail to Kyleakin, which was now a place of considerable size, and of no small stir ,with its railways, its docks, and its many steamers, some carrying goods, and some, pas­sengers only, and which, coming from all parts of the North, met here as at a common terminus. B y the " K i n g Haco" Steamer, one of the swift line of passenger steamers, which plied daily between this and the North, I went to Portree. The tide permitting, after leaving Broadford, w e called at the Corran (Sca)pa), at Dunan, Sconser, Culnahairde, and Raasay. In January 1866, a story went the rounds that a gentleman recently im­ported into the island had innocently asked if there was a daily steamer between Broadford and Portree. Had that gentleman been with me in 1896, he would have found his wish fully gratified.

After rounding the Uduirn Point, we entered on a scene of bustle and animation. Lying at anchor in the harbour were vessels with cargoes from various parts of the world, —whalers, herring-vessels, deep-sea fishing smacks, and barques with timber from N o i w a y and North America. Large heavy boats, with small engines at the stern steamed out to sea with refuse, or up the loch with sea-

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ware to the kelp factories. Long needle-like skiffs darted hither and thither,—in each an oarsman with the lightest of costume. And, bouncing merrily over the waters, in the direction of Holm isle, might be seen a little steamer, evidently with an excursion party on board, for the yards were gay with flags, and a pibroch on board discoursed a music the sweetest, when mellowed by distance, that can appeal to the Gael's heart. From the sea Portree looked well, the space between Scorriebreck and Kiltaraglen, seemed a town of itself, and a handsome curved terrace on Cnoc-Phobuil, had especially an imposing appearance. The old quay, which looked twice as wide as I had known it, was extended far out into the A o i l l ; so far, indeed, that there was left but a narrow entrance to the inner Loch . For a considerable distance, this quay was broad, and crowned with low sheds, like those of the Broomielaw, Glasgow. The remainder was comparatively narrow, and acted as a breakwater, protecting the outer harbour from the S.W. wind, and transforming the inner harbour into a sort of dock. Besides this quay, meant specially for goods, there was a neat quay at Stronacudikin, for passenger boats. From this, a steep flight of steps ran up the cliff to Boswell Terrace; but, when I landed, I preferred the shore road. A t the top of the brae of the quay, (which, by the way, had been widened, and made easier for cart-horses), stood a statue, erected to the memory of some one, apparently, whom the good folks of Portree delighted to honour. Of a mild and venerable aspect, the likeness was so good that it needed not the inscription beneath to assure me, that I stood before the statue of good old Dr Macleod, the intensely active and unwearied philanthropist. Portree had long ago been made a borough; and, next day, m y friend Bailie Robertson, took me to a Meeting of the T o w n Council, and introduced me to the members. Among them I re­cognised several old friends, such as Mr Cameron, the Town-Clerk ; Councillors Mitchell and Macmillan ; and in Provost Kennedy himself, I was not s low to recognise

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the quondam Accountant of the North of Scotland Bank. I remember nothing of the proceedings of the Meeting, except that they referred to sanitary matters, and to the question whether the number of policemen should be in-increased. I was more interested in the room itself, and the views go t from its windows. The Town Hall, situate in the centre of Cadogan Square, consisted of a single large oblong room, supported by a series of iron pillars, which ran round the outer edge, and b y a massive pyramidal-shaped pillar in the centre. The space be­tween these pillars formed a sort of colonnade, open at the sides, and roofed b y the floor of the hall above. A t the east end of the building, was a square tower, which, besides being surmounted by a gilt weathercock, to show how the wind blew, ( no sinecure, take m y word for it, in Skye) , displayed the broad honest faces of the town-clock, which told the time of d a y ; and enclosed a beil which rang merry peals at marriages, doleful knells at funerals, and notes of alarm when a fire broke out. The hall was entered b y a flight of stairs from without, had windows on three of its sides, and had its somewhat plain appearance relieved by the portraits of some full-bìown gentlemen, who had doubtless deserved well of their fellow-townsmen. The colonnade below was a favourite spot for the worthy townsfolk to forgather with their friends, and to discuss the various topics of politics, war, weather and wages. A n d I am bound to add, they settled these matters to their own satisfaction. Here and there in the Square, you might see fruit and vegeta­ble stalls, but a Saturday afternoon was the time to see the Square in its glory. It was wonderful to see the crowds of people that would collect on that day, when the working men had go t their wages, and they and their wives came out with their baskets to make their purchases. Then it was, that quacks and penny show­men plied their vocations. Then you might see, piled on many a stall, fruits, vegetables and flowers, the most of which came, I was told, from gardens and nurseries

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in the direction of Glen Varagal. It was then, also, that certain vendors of butcher-meat, and of butter and eggs, and the owners of crockery stalls, did no small strokes of business, and, as you might guess, added their quota to the din of Babel sound. The Meeting of Council being over, m y friend showed me over the town, pointing out, with pardonable pride, the buildings and improvements that attested the town's prosperity ; here was an elegant drinking fountain, with a trough for animals; there was the shed for the fire-engine; and yonder was the new Post-Office, and Government having long ago combined the Telegraphs of the kingdom with the postal service, you could now send twenty words to any part of Britain for a few pence. It was pleasant to look on the paved streets, and the gas-lamps, and the showy shop windows. The greater part of the merchants did not live above their shops;—oh dear n o ! they affected the West-end, or indulged in neat villas in the suburbs. A favourite aristocratic place of residence was, it seems, Godfrey Square, a wide, breezy spot, past the Big Garden. It was here the Provost lived, with t w o big lamps before his house. Near this Square, a bridge with several arches, crossed the river and valley to the Dunvegan Road ; and, as m y friend and I were passing over this bridge, a shrill whistle startled our ears. " W h a t ' s that?" I said. " D e a r me, don't you k n o w ? why that's the Railway whistle!" " W h a t Rai lway ? you have none to Broadford." " T r u e , but it shan't be long till w e have o n e ; the numerous projects to get over the grave engineering difficulties in the way, have caused great delay,—but we are seeing our w a y now." " Well , but what Railway did that whistle oome from ?" 1 asked. " From a single line of rail which goes to Dunvegan, and sends a branch to Uig . It passes the Paraffine and Torbite works, which I shall take you to see, some day ; meanwhile, you shall go home with me to lunch; 1 am like to cut with hunger, and haven't tasted anything these two hours." From the tone of

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English luxury implied in this last'remark of m y friend, you will perceive that Portree bailies had become un­commonly like English aldermen. Just then, the tra n from the North came rattling in behind the Mill and Free Church Manse, and landed its passengers at a small Railway Station erected opposite where the roads used to meet at the Big Bridge. After lunch, we had a walk up the L u m p ; and I was glad to find, that while the town had looked after gas, water, drainage, and other matters of social comfort, it had not overlooked matters of taste. The walks were kept clean, and in good re­pair, and were provided with seats at various " points of advantage." Y o u n g trees, protected by palisades, g rew in the spaces that had been made more open b y the storms of winter, and the axe of the ground-officer. And here I may remark, that had the spirit of Samuel Johnson revisited Skye, he would not have to complain so much as he did of the want of wood ; for there were few spots of the island on which trees could grow, or on which it was desirable that they should grow, but flourished with young and green plantation. The top of the L u m p had been wel l drained, and groups o f children were gambolling on the green sward, or p ic-nicing it under the t rees ; and filling the air with shouts and laughter. The tower had been thoroughly repaired, and furnished with stained windows. A n iron spiral stair wound its way up the centre to the roof, from which a magnificent prospect could be obtained. H o w Big Portree looked, to be sure ! And h o w many hotels could be counted from the tower ! In this latter respect, Portree, it seems, more than equalled Oban. For it had now become, perhaps the most important Tourist place in the k i n g d o m ; not only because it was itself in the centre of the Skye " lions," so many, so unique, and so close to each other ; but because unusual travelling facilities had been provided the Tour i s t ; and because, in the summer season, Steamers went at stated intervals to St Kilda, the Orkneys, Iceland, Faroe Isles, and N o r -

-way. Next day I visited the Hospital, in company with my friend ex-Bailie Patterson, of the excise. In Went­worth Street we encountered an omnibus well-filled with excursionists and tourists, and which four horses carried along in splendid style, with no little cracking of whip, and sound of horn. As it passed in the direction of Boswell Terrace, I saw printed on a board, near the top,

, " To Storr and the Lakes," and was told that it was one among many omnibuses run by the great coaching firm of Mackay & Sons, the parent partner of which firm was the ci-devant Mail Contractor of 1866. The Hospital was in Victoria Street, and was well worth a visit, with its Medical and Surgical departments, and its very efficient staff of House-Surgeon, two Visiting Practitioners, (who took their turns each week), Matron, day and night Nurses, and Porter. A part of the Medical Hospital was reserved for cases of fever, or for the emergency of an epidemic. On the day following, I found the town all agog with excitement about the swimming matches, which were to come off that day. For you must know that, among the institutions of the town was a Swimming Ciub, comprising most of the juvenile and adult males of the community; and the nature of which is sufficiently indicated by its title. Every year, the ciub had a grand field (or rather, sea) day; on which, the members, in presence of the public, contested for prizes, in swimming, diving, and other forms of natatorial art. On my way to the scene of con­test^ I saw that the principal shops were shut, and that a stream of people was proceeding (as streams generally do proceed), sea-wards. I soon reached the pier, to which I have already alluded as being an extension of 1 the old quay; for the contest was to take place parallel with it, and in the inner harbour. It was accordingly covered with a crowd of both sexes, all in holiday attire, and apparently on the best of terms with themselves and everybody else. W e had not long to wait before a burst of pibroch music announced the approach of a little

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Steamer, which shot round the corner of the Lump, from the Sliganach wharfe, and lay to, close to the shore, and at a little distance from the pier. Soon was seen a boat, into which entered from the Steamer, seven or eight youths, dressed only with swimming-belts, and long scarlet cloaks, which latter they doffed when they reached and stood on a big log of timber, at the distance of 250 yards; from which, at a given signal, they started in the first race. It is not my purpose, however, to chronicle the matches, or the victor's names, and I shall only refer those who are curious in these matters, to the " Portree Gazette," of that day, in which a full, and on the whole accurate account of the affair may be obtained. Before the aquatic programme was completed, I strolled to the end of the pier, and examined the short, wooden Light-house, erected there. It consisted of two storeys, the lower one of which contained ropes, buoys, and all the armamentaria of Captain Manby's rocket apparatus, ready for emergencies. The upper storey served for the Light-house, its blue and red lights being lit only on dark nights. There was a similar Light-house on the Black-Rock, which was also illuminated on dark nights, and could be reached from the shore at all states of the tide, by a narrow wooden bridge, of simple construction. From the pier, I crossed to Ard Bhrisgaig, in a ferry­boat, which, to the great convenience of the Benefyller and Braes people, plied regularly here, under the com­mand of an old weather-beaten fisherman, whose appear­ance reminded me of the old Charon, of Greek story, who ferried the souls of the dead to Pluto's domains.

, Paying him his obolus, in the shape of a penny, I ascended the hill by a winding foot-path, but was deterred from descending to the Cambus Ban beach, by a notice

• printed on a board, which informed the lieges that, by order of the Town Council, the sands were reserved for female bathers, between the hours of twelve and six -o'clock. There were three or four bathing-machines on the shore, lying idle for the nonce, the swimming-match

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having drawn off their patrons. The town and harbour really looked remarkably fine on this warm June day, but all its former appearances were eclipsed by the spec­tacle it presented on the occasion of a visit of the Prince of Wales, about the beginning of July. Timely notice had been given of his arrival, so that when his yacht steamed into the bay, one calm afternoon, ample prepara­tions had been made for a grand illumination that even­ing. Wishing to see this to most effect, I walked in the twilight by way of Kiltaraglen and Torveg to Bille, and when in this way I reached the Black-Rock, the full glory of the sight burst at once on m y astonished eyes. Every house was illuminated, from house to terrace above, and to terrace above that again. The line of houses on Cnoc Phobuil emitting a soft steady light from innumerable globes thickly set along the borders of doors and windows, looked like veritable "castles in the air." The tower windows blazed with emeralds, sapphires, and rubies. Padelle lights—consisting of flat dishes like shallow flower-pots, and containing a substance which, when lit, flickered with a flame not easily put out by the wind,—flared along the heights of the Lump, and of Bank Street, Boswell Terrace, the Pier, and Ard-Bhrisgaig. A huge bonfire burned on Fingal's Seat, and lights had been arranged along the face of the hill, in the form of gigantic letters, so as to form the words " Ich Dien," which motto of his crest, the Prince could thus read from the deck of his yacht. Rockets and other fire-works, were set off from the top of the Lump, and winding along the walks beneath, might be seen the youths of the Academy, with blazing torches in their hands. The ruling spirit in these loyal demonstrations, was one Harry Fraser, a rich Indian, (or, as he was ir­reverently termed by some, " Indigo") Nabob, and this gentleman offered to erect on Ard-Bhrisgaig, in honour of the Prince's visit, an octagonal tower, and to make it correspond as much as possible with the one on the .Lump. A few ill-disposed individuals would have it that

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the Nabob had an eye to knighthood or a baronetcy in all these effusions of loyalty, but I have strong grounds for asserting that nothing could be more alien to his thoughts than the motives thus ascribed to him. The Prince's visit, it turned out, was merely a passing one, much to the chagrin and loudly-expressed annoyance of the town belles, who had indulged in wild visions of muslin and tarletan dresses, distingue balls, quadrilles with the Prince and his staff, and what not. They con­soled themselves as well as they could, with the sympathy of their dress-makers, and by appearing in great force on the pier, when the Prince landed, and received an address from the Corporation. But enough of the Prince and his visit, let us now return to the town. I am afraid to tell the number of churches, or refer to them at all, in case I tread unwittingly on the ecclesiastical toe, but you will be glad to hear that with scarcely an exception all the churches were well attended. In two other points there was a decided improvement. During all the time I was in the country, I saw no maltreating of imbeciles in body or mind by children or old wives in adult male attire. I saw no dung heaps close to human habitations, no accumulation of filth within the precincts of the town. Public opinion had put down the one, and the T o w n -Council, by their police, looked well after the other. And now, you may ask, what brought about this pros­perity ? One great cause was a firm determination to make an intelligent use of all the resources and capa­bilities of the island. The coal deposits, and the mineral ores of the island, were not allowed to lie idle. Wool-mills had been established ; Portree had gained a name in the market for its woollens, and you may depend the island was none the poorer that the " cladding" of its sheep was exported in the form of woollens, instead of wool . In­stead of exporting kelp, chemical factories had been built, which not only turned the sea-ware into kelp, 1 but from this latter extracted the soda salts, and iodine,—the latter a substance much used in Medicine and Photography.

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C H A P T E R I I I .

The Skye Encyclopaedists.

Haec studia adolescentiam alunt, senectutem obleotant, secundas

res ornant, adrersis perfugium ac solatium praebent-CICBRO, Fro A R C H . Poet.

Y o u will be glad to hear that the Society had flourished, and done good in its day and generation. Indeed it still existed, but in a more mature form, and under the title of the " Portree Philosophical Institute." Being naturally anxious to know of its operations in the years 1866-67-68, I was favoured with a sight of the minutes and records, and there found that a series of public lectures had been organized in connection with the Society, in the winter of 1866. Perhaps you would like to know who gave these lectures ? Well , I remember the following : — Sheriff Fraser, on the " Philosophy of Wit and Humour," K . M'Leod, Esq., of Greshornish, on the " Affinities of the Gaelic and Sanskrit—both members of the Aryan family of languages," Mr Alexander Macdonald, on the " Botany of a Leaf, and of its metamorphoses," and Mr Uffbrd, on "Chemistry," (with experiments). The ministers, too, came out strong, but I can recall only these,—Rev. H . Macarthur, on " Systematic Benevolence," Rev . A . Adam, on "Flax," and Rev. Mr Lamont, on " Weather, with special reference to the lamont-able ( ! ) state of the Skye weather." This lecture plan was stereotyped, and became very popular. In addition to these more popular lectures, a course of lectures was given on some special subject, or science; this new system being inauguratè'd by Mr Urquhart, in a course of lectures,—first, on " Music,*"

fand second, on the " F i n e Arts." The Library also grew 'with rapid strides, and being thrown quite open to the

Boat-building was largely engaged in. A n d there were worksatCoilleskidel, which produced from the " Big Moss" paraffin, torbite, &c . And Skye continued as of yore, to export whisky, black cattle, and men,—this last a very important article of export, whether it be in the form of tinkers, tailors, soldiers or sailors. The state of the rural population was much improved, and the principle that property has its duties as well as its privileges, obtained general assent. A society of gentle­men had been formed for the reclamation of waste land, (similar to one that had succeeded well in Ireland); and the cottars whom they employed, did wonders, because they were rewarded with a long lease of the land they reclaimed, at a mere nominal rent. The plan of co-opera­tion had also been applied to the purchase and tenure of land, but with what result I am not prepared to say. In the matter of education, Skye was not behind. A large substantial Academy had been erected close to Portree, and furnished with a goodly staff of masters, whose reputation attracted to the place a great number of scholars from the neighbouring islands,—a very im­portant matter to those families who had lodgings to let, or who took in boarders. I have no time to speak of the spacious play-ground and the class-rooms, and the system of instruction followed. There is one matter, however, about which I am sure you are all anxious to know, 1 mean what became of the Portree Mutual Improvement Associa­tion, and this brings me to Chapter III .

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public, had been greatly assisted by all the gentlemen of the island, who had any pretension to a love of letters, or who had the good of their fellow-islesmen at heart, or who, in fine, had any odd volumes in their libraries, or any loose silver in their pockets. And now the Society began to take higher a ims ; j t began to form a Museum, consisting first, of Skye products and curiosities, and second, of works of nature and art, from all parts of the world. This was enriched by articles from India, and America, and Australia, & c , sent b y Skye men living there. The exhibition of these to visitors, in­creased the funds of the Association, and this led to the purchase of other articles of vertù, and industrial art. A n d you will not be surprised to hear that when I visited the place, a substantial building—itself a model of archi­tectural skill,—had been erected ; the lower flat of which contained the Library and public Reading-room, while the upper flats furnished—besides a Hall arranged for lectures,—a suite of rooms for the Museum. Time would fail me to detail the numerous objects of interest displayed in this last, in the various departments of Chemistry, Botany, Natural History, Archaeology, &c. Let me mention three curiosities in the antiquarian section of Skye : Ist, a beil that had belonged to one of the ill-fated ships of the Spanish Armada ; and, the relics of a tawse that had been used in the Portree school, by D r Mackay, ( n o w of Harris), and at present, (the tawse I mean, not the Doc tor ) , the valued possession of Mr Macdonald, our veteran and venerable parochial school­master; and, Srdly, a skeleton—don't start, ladies! I repeat, a skeleton hoop, accompanied with a picture of a belle dressed in hoops, or crinoline, and with the inscrip­tion beneath, " Hoops, as worn by our grandmothers, A.D. 18b'5."

While the collection and scientific classification of the specimens were going on, the Society projected a work of great interest, and of considerable public utility ; which was, the writing a History of Skye, with an

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elaborate account of its resources. In fact, they made Skye the subject of an encyclopedia; receiving informa­tion, and old family documents, and suggestions from all quarters. Individual members presided over distinct departments ; one over the Antiquarian, one over the purely Historical, one over the Geological, and so on. And each kept a book in which was entered any new information, or point of interest, previously submitted to the general society. A s you might guess, this was a work of great labour and time, but it was also a labour of love. Special attention was directed to the Scientific and Industral par t ; the Geology of the Island was care­fully investigated, and a series of experiments was con­ducted in the departments of Chemistry and Agriculture. An important practical result was, that the society was enabled to point out many public improvements, and to suggest modes by which the resources of the Island could be utilized, or b y which those already operated on, could be further developed. In short, the Society had been no mean cause of the very great prosperity I saw in Skye, in 1896.

One word about myself, to complete m y story, and "this strange eventful history." H o w , and why did I leave the country? W h y thus it w a s : I found I could not practise m y profession with any comfort, Medical science had progressed so much during the thirty years, and having, in consequence, got into a moody state, I wandered one day to the top of Aite-Suidh Fhionn, and having sat on the same hillock on which I had formerly been bewitched, a cloud surrounded me, I heard soft strains of music,—slept, and' awoke, with the cold air "biting shrewdly." There was the snow; I walked a short distance, and there was the multitudinous assemblage of hills, and the placid plain of the sea, and the sleeping village,—in short, the " baseless fabric of m y vision," had dissolved and faded,

" Leaving not a rack behind."

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