thread consumption guide

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  • 7/25/2019 Thread Consumption Guide

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    Thread Consumption Guide

    Bulletin Post 01

    ContentsMeasuring actual thread consumed

    Using thread consumption ratios

    Coats Seamworks (Thread Calculator)

    Access Coats Seamworks

    Thread Consumption Methods

    In todays competitive marketplace, there is a need for tiht cost control! " realistic estimation of potential

    thread re#uirements for particular arment styles or contracts $ill not only end up savin you money, %ut also

    ena%le you to use a superior thread for the same cost, there%y not compromisin on arment #uality!

    &everal factors determine the e'tent of thread consumption in any se$n product, such as stitch type, seam

    type, material thickness, num%er of layers, construction and &PI (stitches per inch)!

    *o$ever, these factors are not constant $ith the different style preferences! *ence, thread consumption is

    never standard for se$n product cateories such as shirts, trousers and foot$ear!

    There are t$o methods enerally used to calculate the amount of thread in a seam and hence the thread

    consumption in the se$n product+

    1! By measurin the actual amount of thread consumed

    ! By calculation usin thread consumption ratios

    1. Measuring Actual Thread Consumed

    " specified lenth of a iven seam is measured and then the thread is pulled out of this lenth! -e can use

    the amount pulled out of this specified lenth to calculate the ratio of thread consumed in the entire seam! By

    dividin the amount of thread %y the seam lenth, $e et the ratio of thread consumed! If $e multiply this

    factor times the total lenth of seam, $e can determine the total thread consumed for that seam!

    Example:

    .enth of seam / 100 cm (1 metre)

    &titch class 01 / Thread Chain stitch

    .enth of seam for $hich thread is removed / 12 cm

    3eedle thread removed / 14!2 cm

    3eedle thread factor / 14!2512 / 1!6

    .ooper thread removed / 7!0 cm

    .ooper thread factor / 7!0512 / !1

    Total 3eedle thread / 100 cm ' 1!6 / 160 cm

    http://www.coatsindustrial.com/en/information-hub/apparel-expertise/thread-consumption#1.%20Measuring%20Actual%20Thread%20Consumedhttp://www.coatsindustrial.com/en/information-hub/apparel-expertise/thread-consumption#Thread%20Consumption%20Ratioshttp://www.coatsindustrial.com/en/information-hub/apparel-expertise/thread-consumption#Coats%20Seamworks%E2%84%A2http://www.coatsindustrial.com/en/tools/seamworks/index.htmlhttp://www.coatsindustrial.com/en/information-hub/apparel-expertise/thread-consumption#Thread%20Consumption%20Ratioshttp://www.coatsindustrial.com/en/information-hub/apparel-expertise/thread-consumption#Coats%20Seamworks%E2%84%A2http://www.coatsindustrial.com/en/tools/seamworks/index.htmlhttp://www.coatsindustrial.com/en/information-hub/apparel-expertise/thread-consumption#1.%20Measuring%20Actual%20Thread%20Consumed
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    Total .ooper thread / 100 cm ' !1 / 10 cm

    Total thread consumed / 160 8 10 / 20 cm

    "dd 129 $astae: / 20 cm ' 1!12 / 71 cm

    :Generally, 109 to 129 $astae of thread is added to the consumption derived! This $astae occurs due to

    shopfloor conditions like machine runnin, thread %reakae, repairs, etc! The a%ove e'ample sho$s the total

    thread consumed for one type of stitch class in a arment! By follo$in a similar procedure, you can calculate

    the thread consumed for different stitchin operations in a arment!

    2. Thread Consumption Ratios

    The easier method is to use the enerally applica%le Thread Consumption ;atios for the various stitch types

    that are listed in the ta%le %elo$! By relatin these ratios to the lenth of seams usin each stitch type, total

    thread consumption can %e calculated!

    Stitch

    Class

    Description Total Thread

    Usage (cm per

    cm of seam) /

    Thread Ratio

    No. of

    Needle

    s

    Needle

    Thread

    !ooper /

    Under (incl.

    Co"er)

    Threads

    301 Lockstitch !" 1 "0 "0

    101 Chainstitch #!0 1 100 0

    #01 Two Thread

    Chain Stitch

    "!" 1 " $"

    30# %ig&ag

    Lockstitch

    $!0 1 "0 "0

    "03 Two Thread

    'eredge

    Stitch

    1!0 1 "" #"

    "0#td

    *

    Three Thread

    'eredge

    Stitch

    1#!0 1 0 +0

    "1 ,our Thread

    Mock Sa-et.

    Stitch

    1+!0 " $"

    "1/ ,ie Thread

    Sa-et. Stitch

    0!0 0 +0

    #0/ Three Thread

    Coering Stitch

    1+!0 30 $0

    /0 ,our Thread

    Coering Stitch

    "!0 0 +0

    /0" ,ie Thread

    Coering Stitch

    +!0 3 30 $0

    Note+

    1! The a%ove ratios are arrived at $ith a stitch density of < stitches per cm (1= stitches per inch)!

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    ! These ratios are the prescri%ed minimum in reular conditions and marinally vary $ith the factors affectin

    thread consumption!

    6! " certain percentae of $astae is to %e added to the a%ove ratios as per shop floor conditions! It may vary

    from 109 to 129!

    Example:

    .enth of seam / 100 cm (1 metre)

    &titch class 01 / Thread Chainstitch

    >rom the ta%le, total thread usae per cm of seam / 2!2 cm

    Total thread consumption / 100 cm ' 2!2 / 220 cm?stimated 3eedle thread / 220 ' 0!2 / 16= cm

    ?stimated .ooper thread / 220 ' 0!

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    Stit

    ch

    T#pe Seam

    !ength

    (m)

    Thread

    Ratio

    Total Thread

    Cons$mption (m)

    NT !T

    Total after considering astage &&.' *

    .

    ,.

    &

    These days, thread consumption and costin can %e calculated $ithout the need to pick the thread from

    seams! CoatsA &eam$orks is a se$in manaement soft$are solution that can accurately calculate thread

    consumption and costin for a sinle se$n product or production run or any num%er of se$in machines!

    &eam$orks helps to reduce thread $astae and can ive you a competitive ede throuh cost effective

    se$in thread procurement! "sk your local Coats contact a%out &eam$orks!

    Note: Stitch density, stitch / seam chioce, variations in style, fabric thickness and number of

    plies are factors that can aect thread consumption. It is also necessary to make provision for

    possible thread wastage usually !"#$ while calculating thread consumption.

    "verae Thread Consumption

    The ta%le %elo$ ives the averae thread lenths consumed for different types of arments, dra$n from our

    e'perience! These fiures include 29 $astae allo$ance+

    0tem Cons$mption (m) 0tem Cons$mption (m)

    Anoraks 10 antie girdle 3"

    Aprons 0 antie hose 30

    2louses 100 aincoats +"

    2oiler suit (Chain stitch)

    Ladies (pair)

    Men (pair)

    #0

    30

    3"

    Shirts

    Men

    2o.s

    4

    10

    $"

    2ras #" Skirts 100

    2rie-s 4 Shorts 4

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    0tem Cons$mption (m) 0tem Cons$mption (m)

    Children

    Ladies Men

    3"

    $0

    Children

    Sports

    3"

    $0

    CapsChildren

    Men

    4$"

    0

    SlacksLadies

    Children

    41/0

    130

    Corsets " Swimwear5 Ladies $"

    6resses

    Children

    Ladies

    4

    0

    1"

    Suits

    Ladies

    Men 4 piece

    4

    3/"

    #+0

    6ressing gowns

    Children

    Men

    4

    1/"

    "0

    Ties $

    7andkerchie-s " Track suits 1/0

    7ousecoats 1+" Trousers5 Men $0

    8ackets5 Men 00 T4shirts 100

    8eans5 Men 10 Under pants "0

    9ightdresses

    Children

    Ladies

    4

    ""

    100

    Under slips

    ,ull length

    :aist

    4

    $"

    #0

    T4shirts (;asic)

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    &eam$orks! sin this soft$are, it is possi%le to calculate thread consumption meterin and costin $ithout

    havin to pick up the thread from the seam!

    &eam$orks is a se$in manaement soft$are solution that can calculate thread consumption for any se$n

    product!

    3ot only does it calculate the consumption for a sinle product, it also ena%les you to choose the riht thread

    orderin pattern, $hich is necessary for optimal usae of the ordered thread in the shop floor!

    &alient features+

    ?asytouse familiar ?'plorertype interface

    &upport for metric and imperial measurement systems

    Increased data interity

    ?nhanced calculation enine

    Multilinual support

    Coats Technical &ervicesSewing engineersat Coats can help .ou with precise metering o- the actual thread consumption

    -or .our garments! The. can proide alua;le in-ormation -or design= cost accounting= inentor.

    planning and logistics!

    http://www.coatsindustrial.com/en/services-solutions/technical-services/problem-solving/index.htmlhttp://www.coatsindustrial.com/en/services-solutions/technical-services/problem-solving/index.html