tip: märklin 3368 br 118 024-9 faulhaber motor conversion...

Tip: Märklin 3368 BR 118 024-9 Faulhaber Motor Conversion By Vic. Date: 25-06-2019

http://members.ozemail.com.au/~rossstew/rms/marklin.html 1

Hi All,

I take great pleasure in introducing Vics’s article showing an outline procedure to convert a Märklin

3368 locomotive with High Performance motor to a Faulhaber motor for quiet running and slow speeds.

This motor conversion would also apply to 3367, 3369, 3767, 3768 and others, refer to reference links

below.

Vic supplied the outline text and photos unless otherwise specified which I have edited and combined

into this format presented.

My thanks to Vic for contributing to my Web pages.

3767 Photo by Ross

Reference Links Below

sb modellbau Manufacturer

22065 Faulhaber Motor Kit Used

22065 Instructions

PTFE Oil Used

Vic’s Article Below

General Notes

The process to convert a standard Märklin loco with High Performance motor to a Faulhaber motor

involves a combination of cutting and milling away the original chassis of the loco so that a brass base

block can be glued into place as a base area on top of which the actual motor is glued with 5 minute

araldite glue.

The brass base block is specifically made for each loco allowing it will fit into place on an area of the

chassis so that the new motor can sit on top of it and engage with one of the original gears of the chassis

after the chassis has been prepared with cutting and milling.

The instructions that come with motors are very simple – they generally show pictures of the brass block

in place on the newly prepared chassis from both sides and the motor on top of the brass block from both

sides, see reference links above.

https://www.sb-modellbau.com/

https://www.sb-modellbau.com/details/H0-engine-set-for-Maerklin-E-18_BR118

http://members.ozemail.com.au/~rossstew/rms/files/22065_faulhaber_motor_kit_instructions.pdf

https://www.sb-modellbau.com/details/Aronix-High-Flon-PTFE-Oil-10ml-c02192



General Notes continued

There is also a drawing of the chassis showing at what level to do different cuts and finally a picture of

the motor in place.

The instruction pictures with brass block and motor in place show the chassis with loco wheels attached

but the actual cutting and milling is best done with all wheels and gears removed to prevent damage and

to get easy access as per the drawing showing the cutting lines.

The following description is how I converted my Märklin 3368 BR 118. Before this I had already

converted about 15 other locos. Each conversion is different but has got a basic logical system which in

my case involves just sitting back and visualizing each stage over and over.

Also very importantly you will ideally be totally dismantling your loco so take lots of photos each time

you remove something and write notes so you can reassemble it.

On receiving your motor kit take the body off your loco place the new motor in front and visualize what

you are going to achieve with the help of the pictures that come with the instructions.

Original loco motor in place with new motor in front and close up of motor below.



Motor Chassis Removal

Remove the old motor and chassis assembly.

NB When I remove the old

motor I use the original

Märklin drawing showing all

parts with spare parts numbers

and label all parts in small

plastic bags for future

reference and use.

Remove plate holding wheels

in place –2 screws.

NB On this loco the same plate is used to

hold the collector shoe onto the rear

chassis and I added an extra collector

shoe under the motor – I have found that

double shoeing engines leads to greater

running reliability.



Motor Chassis Removal continued

Above is Chassis stripped of motor and wheels – gears still in place.

Gear Removal

Before removing gears on chassis – count the teeth and take photos of orientation for reassembly of lower

gears. Document this process carefully.

I use a homemade punch to tap out the pin (direction of yellow arrows) holding the gear in place – it is a

hardened nail (used for concrete nailing) ground down to fit into the pin hole.



Visualise New Motor Fit

Motor chassis with gears removed.

Now roughly place new motor onto chassis to visualise where it finally will sit. Note how the lower block

fits neatly into place. The cutting / milling of the chassis will enable the motor section to fit into place



Milling

Warning: - You undertake the following modifications at your own risk. Mechanical modifications

(milling the motor chassis) are done at your own risk. Make sure you have a plan B if things go wrong.

The photo below shows the chassis firmly placed into a jig on my micro milling machine (basically a

small but more accurate drill press).

I use timber side pieces to stop damage from the metal jaws of the vice.

In this picture I am milling a space for

the connection of the extra collector

shoe. As mentioned earlier this is just a

personnel preference.

Also note I have drilled and taped a

2mm hole (red arrow) for the mounting

screw to hold the extra collector shoe

onto the chassis.

The photo above shows the space finished and drilling an access hole for the connecting wire.



Collector Shoe Wiring Access Hole

An access is drilled thru the lower brass block at an angle and the photo below shows this with the brass

block in place. The position of the hole is determined by visualisation and you can see that I have

scratched a line onto the brass block and lined in up with a corresponding line on the chassis.

Cutting the Motor Chassis

The next step and photo above is the main cutting/milling of the block. In this part I am using a metal

cutting disc from my Dremel tools on the milling machine.

I have determined the position of the cut from the original supplied instructions and simply looking at

where the motor will sit on the lower block again from the instruction photos.



Instruction Deviations Milling the Motor Chassis

NB: When cutting I try to maintain as much of the old chassis as possible to maintain weight and cutting

not enough is better than too much. With this conversion I deviated from the instructions and only cut half

of the upper section away to save some metal for weight.

The picture above shows half of the advised metal cut away and trial fitting of the brass base block.



Trial Fitting of the Motor Block

Now place the motor block and make sure there is no interference if no further milling is required and

replace the gears for final positioning. Also check that all gearing rotates with no interference.

If all gears rotate with no interference you can glue into place the lower block with epoxy glue.

Allow to set.

Now recheck the final fit of the motor.

Make sure that the gear from the motor block is parallel to the gear on the chassis and there is a tiny gap

between the teeth for some minute play. Mark this position with a scratch line or marker.

Glue motor block onto the base block and recheck and recheck before epoxy glue sets.



Motor Chassis Reassembly

Reassemble the rest of the wheels and collector shoe.

Reassemble new motor chassis into the locomotive main chassis.



Final Locomotive Assembly

The original c90 decoder is replaced with

an ESU LokPilot V4.0 decoder for

improved smooth slow running of the

locomotive.

The CVs were adjusted as required – I use

the auto set up method for the LP4.0

Now finely tune the CV’s for very smooth

slow running – enjoy.

LokProgrammer Project File link supplied

With this loco I also converted the front and

rear lights to LED’s.

See Ross’ article if you want to add rear

lights pages 24-25 for this locomotive

Enhancing Old locos with Rear Lights

3767.yra TrainAnimator file

NB: - When I did my first conversion some years back I mainly used my Dremel with a great results.

Using a micro milling machine gives you greater precision.

I was also reluctant to remove wheels but purchased wheel pullers and other tools just to make the

process easier.

When you decide on a loco to convert make sure that all gears and bearings are working smoothly to start.

The final result is very satisfying.

http://members.ozemail.com.au/~rossstew/rms/files/3368_E18_36_472.esux

http://members.ozemail.com.au/~rossstew/rms/pdf/loco_tail_lights.pdf

http://members.ozemail.com.au/~rossstew/rms/files/3767.yra



TrainController Speed Graphs

Comments by Ross

The linear speed graph on the left is

my E18 using a c90 decoder set for

140km/h.

TC8.0G2 is the version of

TrainController

Speed step 2 is the first speed step

for the Threshold speed.

The curved speed graph on the right

is Vic’s E18 using a LP4.0 decoder

set for 150km/h.

TC9.0B1 is the version of

TrainController.

As the graph is curved Vic is able to

obtain smooth lower speed steps and

he makes use of every available

speed step.

The Faulhaber motor is very quiet

and the locomotive has very smooth

running.

Once again my thanks to Vic for contributing this article on Faulhaber motor conversions.

As always enjoy your model trains.

tip: märklin 3368 br 118 024-9 faulhaber motor conversion...

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