tk10 flavor dna

HKD40 | MOP40 | RMB42 | NTD180 | SGD8 | USD6 | £4

T A S T I N G K I T C H E N 10 F L A V O R D N A

20

13

INDIA Spice World HONG KONG Isaan Ingenuity

FRANCE Dark Matter

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

111.pdf 1 13�7�11� ��2:30

starter

At Chachawan Isaan restaurant, Executive Chef Adam Cliff debones a duck, chops it up and fries it with its skin and fat. Deep-fried pork skin is added for crunch and texture. The dish is seasoned with roasted and ground dried chili, which offers a fierce heat beautifully balanced by the richness of the duck. Fragrance and freshness is added with Kaffir lime leaves, long leaf coriander and crisp lettuce.

「Chachawan」泰式餐馆主打北泰依善菜式，行政主厨Adam Cliff先为鸭子去骨，把鸭肉切片后与鸭皮

鸭脂同煎，再搭配炸猪皮，增添酥脆口感，随后加入已干烤的磨碎辣椒，让火辣的风味巧妙平衡鸭肉

的丰腴肥美。最后加入泰国青柠叶、长叶胡荽与青翠莴苣叶，让整道菜更加香气十足、清新爽口。

4 | T K | f l a v o r d n a

F L A V O R D N A

I S S U E # 1 0

Tasting Kitchenwww.tasting-kitchen.com

7A, 22/F, Kodak House II, 39 Healthy East Street Quarry Bay, Hong Kong Tel: +852 2642 0008

Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the Pearl River Delta’s finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food. Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the region has to offer.

TK Director of Photography David Hartung shopped for the spices in his cover photograph at the world’s largest spice market in Old Delhi, India (see more of his photos starting on page 94). From top to bottom: green cardamon, cumin, coriander seeds, large cardamon, cloves, turmeric, chili pepper, nutmeg, star anise, peppercorn and cinnamon.

封面照片由TK摄影总监 David Hartung 采景于全球最大型辣椒市场。由上至下

罗列分别为：绿色小豆蔻，小茴香，芫荽籽，大豆蔻，丁香，姜黄，辣椒，

豆蔻，八角，胡椒，肉桂。读者可于本刊第94页观赏更多的照片。

Photograph by David Hartung ©Tasting Kitchen 2013. All rights reserved

SUBSCRIPTIONS [email protected]

PRINTINGABC Digital Printing Co. LTD.9/F, Long Life Industrial Building15 Ko Fai Road, Yau TongKowloon, Hong Kong

DISTRIBUTIONBlackstone Concepts Communication+ 852 3481 0518

Mark HammonsFOUNDER & CO-PUBLISHER [email protected]

Jenny ManGROUP GENERAL MANAGER & [email protected]

Jeff HammonsEDITOR AT [email protected]

Joey CheangEDITORIAL COORDINATOR CHINESE EDITOR

Yvonne CheongEDITORIAL ASSISTANT

Sarah Dallof Andrew DembinaMargie T. LogartaJo MckinnonLucy MorganRoland MukschKate NicholsonInara SimCONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Jean AlbertiCHEF AT LARGE [email protected]

David HartungDIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY

Alicia BeebeART DIRECTOR

Kennis YuenPRODUCTION MANAGER

Allen SunPHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT

Timothy TangCIRCULATION & SUBSCRIPTION EXECUTIVE

Rita NgACCOUNTANT

GROUP [email protected]

Mary Ng TraversoSALES DIRECTOR+852 9023 [email protected]


1 Mansingh Road, New Delhi, India 110 011. Call 1.800.111.825 toll free or the hotel directly, 91.11.2302.6162.Visit tajhotels.com.

Voted 2013 Best Hotel in New Delhi by Travel + Leisure U.S. readers.

T H E T A J M A H A L • N E W D E L H I

The magnificence of New Delhi, as envisioned by Sir Edwin LutyensIn the corporate, diplomatic, and social whirl of New Delhi, there is really only one address – The Taj Mahal.

Which is why it has long been home to heads of state, business titans, and prominent thought leaders. And one

suite, among many exceptional ones, has captured their attention. Inspired by the designs of Sir Edwin Lutyens,

the Grand Presidential Suite brings his vision of a magical residence to life. The suite features a generous 3,000

square ft. layout, ornate appointments and splendid views. Guests will no doubt also delight in the outstanding

service that is so distinctively Taj.

Taj forever.

Grand Presidential Suitethe TAJ MAHAL, NEW DELHI

13963_Taj-TastingKitchenMag_TajPresidentialSuite.indd 1 11/18/13 3:55 PM

contents

746472

42

41

34 36 40

46 52

54

70


14 – 33 T A S T I N G N E W S

34 Molteni, Meet Hong Kong • 36 Silver Space • 40 Gifts for Little Gourmets • 41 Christmas Staples

42 From the Nest of a Phoenix • 46 The Last Supper • 52 G and Tea • 54 Krug and the Culinary Crab

64 Layers of Delight • 70 Cova’s Treasure Trove • 72 Magnificent Tradition • 74 The Perfect Cure

150

138

124

144

132

146

136

118

94

8480

140

128

112

88

f l a v o r d n a | T K | 9

contents

80 ’Tis the Season • 84 Isaan Ingenuity • 88 Spice • 94 Spice World • 112 Chôm Chôm Nom Nom

118 Sichuan Spice Maestro • 124 A Festive Feast • 128 Primal Pleasure • 132 How Do You Like Them Apples • 136 Old World Charm

138 The Many Guises of Austria’s Grüner Veltliner • 140 Leave It Up to The Chef • 144 Private Dining • 146 Quinoa Lobster Salad • 150 Dark Matter

154 W H E R E T O F I N D T K • 156 R E S T A U R A N T L I S T I N G S • 160 D E S S E R T

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen.

Season’s Greetings – or should I say

Seasonings Greetings!

This holiday TK issue is full of spices and

flavorings.

We talk to four talented and ambitious

chefs about the flavor profile – or Flavor DNA

– of dishes from India, Sichuan, Vietnam and

the Isaan region of Thailand. Think cardamom,

black salt and saffron, red peppercorns, red

chilies and green chilies, dill, Kaffir lime,

lemongrass, coriander, galangal and turmeric.

We take a look at spices in history, and

how even back in the Middle Ages savvy marketers knew the value of a good story.

Spice merchants claimed that birds used cinnamon sticks to make giant nests in the

cliffs above beaches in India, which “cinnamon hunters” then plotted to obtain.

Today India is still associated with the world’s best spices. In this issue, for

our first Tasting Destinations feature, TK’s Director of Photography David Hartung

and Senior Writer Lucy Morgan traveled to Old Delhi to visit the world’s largest

spice market and to New Delhi to visit one of the world’s top restaurants for modern

Indian cuisine.

One of our featured wines is the peppery Austrian Grüner Veltliner. We also

talk to a New Zealand Wine Master about what makes great wine great, and to a

leading French Champagne Chef de Cave about the value of patience and restraint.

There are also some crabs running loose in the issue. A master chef in Macau

shares his recipe for Quinoa Lobster Salad while five more from Hong Kong and

Singapore share their favorite crab dishes and culinary musings.

Happy Holidays,

publisher’s note

MARK HAMMONS

10 | T K | f l a v o r d n a

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

SpoonHKTK227x302(HR).pdf 1 03/05/2013 4:34 PM

Greetings from Tasting Kitchen.

Spices are the backbone of any

cuisine. In a restaurant kitchen, if you run

out of something as simple as white pepper,

operations can quickly grind to a halt. People

say that food is the spice of life, but we would

not have developed a love for food if it were

not for spice.

In my hometown of Belfort, France, a

gentleman from Pakistan had a store where he

sold spices, medicinal herbs and coffee. In the

summer he would grind all kinds of mysterious

spices, and the town would fill with the smell

of cinnamon, anardana or ajwain. My grandmother used to buy saffron from him

every Sunday, which she used to make paella.

When I was in culinary school in Strasbourg in the early ‘80s spices were not

that common in the French kitchen. You had the usual suspects like black pepper,

curry, cinnamon, paprika and a few others but not very much variety.

I started to get interested in spices when I worked in the West Indies, where

for over 200 hundred years the Dutch, English and the French dominated the spice

trade. To this day you will find spices there that are not available in the West.

My Sous Chef Nigel took me to the spice market on Antigua and later on the

islands of Guadeloupe and Martinique. They were hundreds of spices there: seeds,

roots, and powders, each with their own color, texture and smell. I was completely

taken aback by the range of spices, all presented in big jute sacks and sold by

beautiful women dressed in colorful clothes.

It was a feast for the senses, and I bought so many spices there that my car

smelled like curry for the next three years.

chef’s note

JEAN ALBERTI

12 | T K | f l a v o r d n a

f l a v o r d n a | T K | 13

tasting news

raise a glass to the year of the horseGOING ONCE, going twice, gone! A lucky eight hundred and eighty-eight specially designed bottles of Castiglion del Bosco’s Brunello Riserva Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006 vintage will be auctioned off during a charity gala on November 25. They’re the first edition of the Tuscan vineyard’s annual Chinese zodiac series. The to-be-auctioned bottles bear a special label by artist Tian Shuhan, depicting a graceful horse mid-gallop to celebrate 2014’s Year of the Horse.

Vineyard owner and luxury goods designer Massimo Ferragamo will be donating funds raised during the charity gala dinner to the Hong Kong Breast Cancer Foundation.

To up the bidding, Ferragamo and Tian Shuhan will also be signing bottles 1, 8, 18, 28, 38, 68, 88 and 888.

一次，两次，成交！取中文「八八八」

吉祥之意，意大利 Castiglion del Bosco 酒庄将捐出八百八十八支 2006年份额外酿造的 Brunello Riserva Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 作为 11月 25 日的慈善拍卖之用。托斯卡尼酒

庄首度采用中国生肖作为酒标，并邀

请著名画家田书翰先生配合 2014 为中

国生肖之马年的主题，绘制一匹优雅

奔驰的骏马作为酒标专属纪念图案。

酒庄主人，同时也是知名设计师

的 Massimo Ferragamo，将在慈善拍

卖晚会为香港乳癌基金会筹措善款。

为了筹得更高金额，

Ferragamo 和田书翰先生将于编

号 1 号和尾数为幸运数字 8 的 8, 18, 28, 38, 68, 88 and 888 等酒标上亲笔

签名。

举杯迎马年

WITH SUMPTUOUS holiday menus across three restaurants – Yamm, WHISK and the Michelin-starred Cuisine Cuisine – and sweet treats at COCO cafe and patisserie, The Mira Hotel has your gourmet Christmas, Boxing Day and New Year dining covered. For those celebrating at home or buying for others, COCO has Christmas roasts, hampers and luxurious pastries crafted by Executive Pastry Chef Jean-Marc Gaucher.

Start your New Year’s Eve celebrations under the stars with a BBQ at Vibes and then head to Room One to dance until dawn. As the celebratory season winds down, get pampered at MiraSpa or check in to the luxurious MiraSpa Suite for a night. The holiday offerings at The Mira Hong Kong would put even the Grinch himself into a festive mood.

holiday mirathon

欢庆佳节的时刻即将到来，The Mira Hong Kong 三家餐厅 Yamm、WHISK 及米其林星

级餐厅 Cuisine Cuisine 均推出丰盛的佳节特

餐，COCO 糕饼店更推出各式甜蜜点心，让

客人从圣诞节、节礼日到新年，再也不用

费尽心思寻找美食。若想在家庆祝或挑选

佳节赠礼，COCO 饼房行政总厨 Jean-Marc Gaucher 精心准备了圣诞烧烤大餐、应景礼

物篮及奢华糕点；除夕夜则可先至 Vibes 餐厅享受星空 BBQ，再到 Room One 通宵达旦

热舞狂欢。随后还可选择去 MiraSpa 好好放

松、犒赏自己，或至 MiraSpa Suite 豪华套房

入住一晚，为连续假期画下完美句点。 The Mira Hong Kong 琳琅满目的佳节献礼，即使

是讨厌圣诞节的绿精灵，也会忍不住满心期

盼节庆到来！

欢乐佳节马拉松

14 | T K | f l a v o r d n a

钻石或许是女孩最好的朋友，但在料理界，阿尔

巴白松露才堪称是王冠上的宝石。阿尔巴白松露

人称「白色钻石」，是来自意大利北部的珍贵极品，

不仅美味，香气更是独特出众，最近一跃成为澳

门新濠锋酒店招牌意大利餐厅「奥罗拉」的本季

主打星。

奥罗拉行政总厨 Michele dell’ Aquila 向来

追求别创新格的意式美馔，这次的白松露特餐同

样巧思独具。 dell’ Aquila 曾在十月与三位才华

洋溢的厨师合作，联手推出阿尔巴白松露巡回盛

宴，因此料理白松露实可谓驾轻就熟。现在由

dell’ Aquila 独自大展厨艺，推出各式各样美味

佳肴，菜式彷如舞台，白松露就是舞台上大放异

彩的焦点。精致菜色包括耶路撒冷朝鲜蓟慢煮有

机鸡蛋佐白松露、奶油意式宽扁面佐三十六个月

帕玛森芝士酱与白松露、布列斯鸡胸蘑菇砂锅佐

白松露及意式玉米粥，甚至盛在玻璃杯中的提拉

米苏也点缀了白松露，让甜点也沾染白松露的馨

香。奥罗拉的白松露套餐自即日起供应至 2014年 1 月 12 日。

white diamond dining美「钻」白松露

Full menu for MOP 2,480 per person, a la carte dishes from MOP 228. 丰盛套餐每位澳门币

2,480元，单点白松露

菜式由澳门币228元起

+853 2886 8868.

tasting news

DIAMONDS ARE A GIRL’S BEST FRIEND and chefs like them too. In the culinary world, the Alba white truffle reigns supreme. Known as “white diamonds,” these precious truffles hail from Northern Italy and are as aromatic as they are flavorful. They’re the star of the show this season at Aurora, Altira Macau’s signature Italian restaurant.

The White Truffle at Aurora menu, available until 12 January 2014, furthers the mission of Chef de Cuisine Michele dell’ Aquila to redefine Italian food for guests. He’s right at home thanks to October’s White Alba Truffle Tour during which he worked alongside three other talented chefs. This time around, dell’ Aquila alone shines with his menu featuring a delicious diversity of dishes, each serving as a stage upon which the truffles can enjoy the spotlight: slow-cooked organic egg on Jerusalem artichoke puree with white truffle; tagliolini with butter, 36-month parmesan cheese fondue and white truffle; and Bresse chicken breast and mushroom casserole accompanied by white truffle and Langhe polenta. The rich truffle flavor even extends into the dessert course with traditional tiramisu served with white truffle.

CO

UR

TES

Y O

F A

UR

OR

A

16 | T K | f l a v o r d n a

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

TK Advertisement.pdf 1 19/11/13 8:28 AM

tasting news

午茶创新意

creative teaMIXOLOGISTS are in their element when competing to develop the next trendy cocktail. High tea wouldn’t seem to be conducive to the same kind of creative one-upsmanship. But then again, why not? Why shouldn’t professional chefs battle to create the next hot high tea? Dilmah encourages creative cooking, thinking and drinking with their Hong Kong & Macau Real High Tea Challenge. The challenge is this: to put together an original menu for a traditional high tea using tea as a main ingredient.

This will be the eighth year of the Real High Tea Challenge, which has been held previously in a number of exotic destinations across the globe. Memorably successful creations from past Challenges include tea-infused chai macarons, tea-candied macada-mias and lychee and strawberry tea sangria. Winners receive a seven-day VIP tour of Sri Lanka and as well as a slot to compete in the Real High Tea Global Challenge.

称职的调酒师能创造出一杯杯新潮、带动流

行的鸡尾酒，而隐身在厨房的下午茶师傅首

重承袭传统作法。但为何下午茶不能有创意？

难道下午茶师傅就不能标新立异？为了鼓励

制作、思维与饮茶的创新，全球第三大茶叶

公司Dilmah于香港和澳门举办下午茶挑战赛。

参赛者必须以茶为主轴，结合传统下午茶精

神和呈现方式，创作出新口味的茶点或茶饮。

下午茶挑战赛已于全球各地不同城市举

办，今年来到第八届，过去几届的得奖者也

创造出许多令人难忘的美味茶点，像是印度

香料奶茶口味马卡龙、茶味坚果、草莓荔枝

红茶口味桑格莉亚。此次挑战赛获胜者可得

到为期七天的斯里兰卡 VIP 之旅，同时晋级

参加在斯里兰卡举办的全球下午茶竞赛，和

来自各地的好手一较高下。

realhightea.dilmahtea.com/2013/hk/

CO

UR

TES

Y O

F D

ILM

AH

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

Mayta_TK_08112013 op.pdf 1 22/11/2013 12:48 PM

18 | T K | f l a v o r d n a

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

Mayta_TK_08112013 op.pdf 1 22/11/2013 12:48 PM

DISCOVERING SINGAPORE is fun. Discovering Singapore by snacking, sipping and savoring the country’s wide array of cuisines is even better. Now, the half million Hong Kong residents who visit Singapore every year are free to sink their teeth into the new Singapore Food Guide.

“Hong Kong visitors are highly sophisticated visitors and are known to be big foodies. Wherever they travel, they seek out local dishes as a way to explore and experience the unique local culture,” says Markus Tan, Singapore Tour-ism Board Area Director for Southern China, Hong Kong & Macau.

The Singapore Food Guide, written by HK food critic and blogger KC Koo, covers 15 types of Singaporean cuisine including prawn mee, fried carrot cake, rojak and fried crab. Koo conducted secret taste tests everywhere from humble hawker stands to five-star establishments. His 50 favorites are laid out in the guide, a road map of the country’s most delicious eats.

THIS HOLIDAY SEASON, recipients of Champagne Drappier’s limited-edition gift set won’t be tearing through the packaging to get to the fine bubbly inside. In fact, admiring the outside of the 2013 Carte d’Or gift set is part of the experience.

Hong Kong’s own Benny Au is the artist behind the eye-catching watercolor on the box of the gift set. His knowledge of paper-making also led to the creation of the limited edition label positioned right above the Champagne house’s iconic yellow and gold bottle label. Just 1,200 sets will find their way into Hong Kong shops.

The packaging is not just beautiful; it’s also symbolic of the process of creating a bottle of Champagne Drappier. The triangular box represents the relationship the winemaker has with the climate and soil. The five color options stand for elements ranging from the rich quince flavor of the Champagne to the chalk soil in Urville, France where the house was started.

水彩缤纷梦幻圣诞

a watercolor christmas

HKD $370 per set www.champagne-drappier.com

2013 年限量版卓皮耶 (Drappier) Carte d’Or 顶级香槟

礼盒于圣诞时期推出，包装赏心悦目令人着迷，爱不

释手。

礼盒上的水彩图案出自香港本地艺术家区德诚之

手，吸睛度十足。卓皮耶也善用他制纸方面的专业，

在酒庄知名的金黄酒标上方附加了限量版的特别标牌。

限量版的包装不只美仑美奂，更可从中一窥卓皮

耶香槟的酿造奥秘。三角形的酒盒代表酿酒人、天气

及土壤三者间密切的关系。可供选择的五种颜色则有

法国 Urville 地区的白垩土、香槟丰富的榲桲果味及酒

庄起家就有的葡萄藤叶等多种意含。

随着佳节脚步接近，2013 年卓皮耶 Carte d’Or 顶

级香槟礼盒也将于香港特定商城上架，限量 1,200 份，

我们开始期待收到这份大礼的幸运儿会有多兴奋了 !

CO

UR

TES

Y O

F D

RA

PP

IER

天书指南美食开路

from the page to the plate 探险新加坡是种令人愉悦的体验，若能深入街头巷尾，

像个在地人般尝遍市井小吃，更是惊喜连连。现在，

新出版的「新加坡美食天书」让每年到新加坡观光的

五十万香港人有了穿梭大街小巷、满足口腹之欲的绝

佳理由。

新加坡旅游局中国华南、香港及澳门区处长陈振

发说：「香港旅客对美食拥有极高的品味，也同时有一

张挑剔的嘴，无论他们在哪里旅行，都会游走市町街

坊寻访当地美食，当作探索、体验在地文化的方式。」

由香港知名美食评论家同时也是部落客的 KC Koo所撰写的「新加坡美食天书」，网罗十五大类新加坡美

食，囊括虾面、炒萝卜糕、罗惹、辣炒螃蟹等风味特色。 KC Koo 的足迹踏遍整座花园城市，介绍的觅食点从世

代经营传统小吃摊，以至闻名世界的餐厅饭店，一应

俱全。他在书中推荐的五十多家餐厅小吃，可说是赏

味新加坡的最佳指南。

Available at the Singapore Tourism Board, Causeway Bay 可于新加坡旅游局铜锣湾办事处索取。

www.yoursingapore.com/foodguide

tasting news

20 | T K | f l a v o r d n a

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

MCMS_Badoit x TK FP Ad_OP.pdf 1 03/07/2013 11:06 AM

tasting news

纽西兰顶级好酒

new zealand’s best

When you taste wine specifically to judge its quality and come up with a rating, do you always follow a set routine?

Yes, I think that’s very important. For example I always taste wines from 9:00 am. No more than twenty wines at a time. I use the same glasses (Riedel Magnum) and taste in the same spot. I note the color, consider the flavor descriptors and then assess texture and length before considering the wine in holistic terms, for example how does it compare to others in its class, is it good value and what food would I match it with.

What are the key qualities that separate a great wine from a good wine? Do they assert themselves immediately through a wine’s bouquet and taste, or do you sometimes have to get to know a great wine to appreciate it?

Great wines are usually fairly obvious. They tend to have power (most easily assessed by the wine’s length of flavor), complexity, and an appropriate texture. They also have what I call the “X” factor that is less easily measured, probably slightly subjective but very obvious to me when I experience it. It is true that some wines can grow in stature the more I taste them. That is particularly true of wines that are built for long term cellaring. They can often

Wine Master Bob Campbell recently visited the Tasting Room at the City of Dreams in Macau for a dinner featuring some of New Zealand’s greatest wines, each of which he has rated at ninety points or higher. He took time to share with TK his thoughts about what makes a great wine great.

CO

UR

TES

Y O

F P

HO

TON

EWZ

EALA

ND

.CO

M

22 | T K | f l a v o r d n a

品酒时需要评鉴品质好坏打分数，是否有

套固定的品评流程？

没错，那正是重点所在。举例来说，早上九点

后我才会开始品酒，一次不能超过二十种酒；

只用 Riedel Magnum 酒杯，从同样的地方入

口品尝。我会注记色泽、思考味道指标，同时

品评酒的质地和余韵，最后再从整体观点来看

这款酒，例如与同等级其他酒款相较之下表现

如何、是否有其价值或可与何种食物搭配等等。

顶级葡萄酒与一般好酒相比好在哪里？凭

借自身酒香及味道就能脱颖而出，还是需

要对其有一定了解才能领会？

顶级美酒妙不可言，最简单的评判方式就是

看余韵的维持时长、复杂性高，而且质地恰

到好处。对此我有特别触角，异常敏感，说

来比较难以量测或偏个人主观，但于我而言，

确是一试便知高下。不过确实有些酒是喝的

次数多了，分数会越来越高，陈年窖藏酒就

品酒大师 Bob Campbell 最近受邀,一访澳门新濠天地御膳房(Tasting Room)享用晚

宴，对于席间搭配的多款纽西兰顶级葡萄酒惊艳不已，个个拿下九十或更高的分

数。 Bob Campbell 特别接受TK专访，分享美酒之所以不凡的奥妙之处。

f l a v o r d n a | T K | 23

tasting news

be a little hard to assess when first released. Also some wines grow in the glass. That’s particularly true of red wines sealed with a screw cap and very young wines that have lots of potential.

Every wine lover has a certain personality and specific preferences. What are your own unique preferences when it comes to wine?

If you mean wine style I must confess that Pinot Noir is my “desert island wine” with Riesling a close second. However I appreciate great examples of all wine styles from Champagne to sherry.

What makes the best New Zealand wines great?I need to answer that by referencing specific wine

types. Sauvignon Blanc: the best are intense, pungently aromatic, have purity and an array of subtle flavors. The best wines have energy. Riesling: power, purity and an exquisite tension between subtle sweetness and knife-edged acidity. Chardonnay: an emphasis on fruit flavor rather than winemaker influence such as oak, buttery characters and yeast autolysis. Must have power and complexity with a silken texture. Pinot Noir: power, a silken texture and an array of flavors that are displayed like the colors on a peacock’s tail. Syrah and blended reds: power, intensity, density, complexity and the ability to age gracefully. K

EVIN

JU

DD

/ A

UST

IN L

AN

GFO

RD

24 | T K | f l a v o r d n a

是很好的例子，此酒款若刚上市就被品评确

有难度。另外，也有在玻璃杯中味道更胜一

筹的酒，瓶盖瓶装、年轻的红酒就是最好的

例子，可以说潜力无穷。

葡萄酒爱好者都有独特的个性及特殊喜好。

您是否有特别偏爱的酒？

如果是葡萄品种的话黑皮诺绝对是我的第一

名，有如「沙漠绿洲」一般的好酒，而雷司

令以些微差距排第二。总的来说各式酒种，

从香槟到雪莉，只要是好酒我都爱。

纽西兰顶级葡萄酒好在哪里？

容我用几个特殊的葡萄酒种来回答。白苏维

翁：气味强烈、带呛鼻酒香，味道纯粹、蕴

含多种细致底味，顶级佳酿能量十足。雷司

令：酒精浓度高而纯粹，雅致甜味与刀锋般

锐利的酸度带来鲜明对比。夏多内：果味大

胜酿酒时掺带的橡木桶、绵密奶香及酵母分

解等味道。酒精浓度及复杂性一定要高，同

时带有丝般质地。黑皮诺：浓度高、丝绸质地，

各式味道开展有如孔雀开屏的绚烂色彩。希

拉及混酿红酒：浓度高、味道强、纯度及复

杂性高，越陈越香。

f l a v o r d n a | T K | 25

tasting news

RED

DO

G S

TU

DIO

TA S T I N G K I T C H E N F O U N D E R M A R K H A M M O N S

welcomed world-renowned Champagne expert Richard Juhlin and G.H. Mumm Chef de Cave Didier Mariott to a special Chef’s Table dinner held on Monday, October 21 at L’Atelier de Robuchon. Joining the dinner were VIP chefs and hotel managers from the Mandarin Oriental, Island Shangri-la, the Ritz Carlton, Marriott Hotels, W Hotel and The Seasons. Guests enjoyed a special menu pairing world-class Robuchon dishes with G.H. Mumm Champagnes, i ncluding the newly released G.H. Mumm Le Mil-lésime 2006 and G.H. Mumm Brut Sélection C uvée. Mr. Juhlin called the cuvée “a youthful, perfectly orchestrated Champagne from five of the best Grand Cru villages in Champagne.” The blend achieves power and minerality with Pinot Noir from Verzenay, Aÿ and Bouzy, and Chardonnay from Cramant and Avize. “A blend of reserve wines and specific sugar content succeed in extracting the power and charm of each terroir,” said Mr. Mariott.

顶级香槟之夜

chef’s table champagne「Tasting Kitchen」创办人 Mark Hammons十月二十一日于法式餐厅 L’Atelier de Robuchon 设宴款待全球知名的香槟专家

Richard Juhlin 及法国知名品牌 G.H. Mumm 酿酒师 Didier Mariott。出席宴会的还有来自文华东方酒店、港

岛香格里拉酒店、丽思卡尔顿酒店、万豪酒

店、W 饭店及 The Seasons 的重量级主厨及

经理级大人物。

宾客一边品尝由享誉世界的 Robuchon 主

厨特制的晚宴套餐，一边细评 G.H. Mumm 顶级佳酿，包括新推出的「2006 年 G.H. Mumm Le Millésime」及「G.H. Mumm Brut Sélection Cuvée 」。后者滋味更让 Juhlin 赞

不绝口：「这款年轻香槟，且可说是香槟区

五大最佳葡萄庄园的完美混酿结晶。」这款

充满泥土芬芳的佳酿分别由 Verzenay，Aÿ及 Bouzy 酒庄的黑皮诺葡萄，Cramant 及

Avize 酒庄的霞多丽葡萄混酿而成。 Mariott也称赞道：「当中的甜度充分体验出不同酒

庄各自的风土，实属完美搭配。」

26 | T K | f l a v o r d n a

DA

VID

RU

AN

O

I T ’ S O N E O F T H E H O T T E S T L I S T S to be on and therefore one of the toughest to get on. However, fine-dining foodies can score a seat at Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants’ award ceremony coming up on February 24. Held at Capella Singapore, it’s a full-day event packed with workshops and a forum attended by key industry figures and some of the world’s most eminent chefs. It culminates with the announcement of 2014’s winners in mouthwatering categories like Best Pastry Chef, the One to Watch Award and The S. Pellegrino Best Restaurant in Asia.

Winners are decided by the votes of 900 inter-national stars of the dining industry including food critics, restaurateurs and chefs. Each gets just seven votes, four of which have to be cast outside of the individual’s home region. The big winners of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants will include not just chefs and restaurants, but also the diners who land soon-to-be coveted reservations.

花落谁家

and the winners are…

www.theworlds50best.com/asia

亚洲料理界公认最难取得、竞争最激烈的

奖项，非 2014 年 2 月 24 日在新加坡嘉佩

乐酒店举办的「亚洲五十最佳餐厅」竞赛

莫属。当天活动包括安排多场研讨会及由

业界指标性人物和知名厨师主持的论坛。

活动最高潮莫过于宣布各个奖项－最佳糕

点师傅、最佳新人奖及圣沛黎洛亚洲最佳

餐厅的幸运得主。

冠军将由九百位来自全球料理界举足

轻重的食评家、餐厅经营者和主厨票选产

生。每位评审手中握有七张选票，其中四

张必须投给来自不同地区、不同国家的入

围者。这场赛事的赢家，包括将获得亚洲

最佳餐厅荣耀的主厨和餐厅，他们未来的

订位热况可想而知。而众多翘首以待的饕

客也将有一饱口福的大好机会。

f l a v o r d n a | T K | 27

澳洲新美馔

down under dining

2/F, 77 Wyndham Street, Central 香港中环云咸街77号2楼 +852 2530 1600

NEED PROOF that the new Aussie eatery BellBrook, bistro oz by Laris doesn’t take itself too seriously? Look no further than the “Convict Game” printed on the back of the restaurant’s menu. Based on the country’s past as a penal colony, players cross colored squares hoping to avoid the shackles which will send them back several spaces and require them to knock back a shot.

When it comes to food and flavor, though, BellBrook doesn’t play around. Flip the menu over or look to the daily-special blackboards to discover indigenous specialties and other palate-pleasing dishes like wild Tasmanian globe artichokes and Aussie steak tartare. They’re served tapas style, for sharing, as are BellBrook’s Table Salads, Bigger Bites and desserts.

Everything from the food to the colorful tile work to the canning jars in the refrigerator is the work of celebrity chef David Laris (right) and restaurant group Dining Concepts. Serving delicious food with a sense of fun and laidback charm? Convicted.

想亲自体验新开幕的澳洲餐厅 BellBrook Bistro Oz by Laris 全新的美味料理？先看看

菜单背面的「囚犯游戏」。这个游戏的设计

来自于澳洲殖民历史，从起点开始逐步完

成所有彩色的正方格，一边前进一边避免

停在画有脚镣的格子上。如果不巧停到有

脚镣的格子，就必须退回几格并罚酒一杯。

不过，一提到料理和风味，BellBrook 绝

不马虎。仔细阅读菜单和店内黑板上手写的

每日特餐，就能发现这家餐厅与众不同、口

味道地的澳洲菜，像是野生塔斯马尼亚朝

鲜蓟和澳洲鞑靼牛肉。餐点以小菜方式小

份量呈盘，让同桌用餐的客人能轻松共享料

理。店内的一切也记录着主厨 David Laris 和

Dining Concepts 对客人的用心。想要品尝美

食也想来点轻松愉悦的气氛，这里统统都有！

CO

UR

TES

Y O

F B

ELLB

RO

OK

tasting news

David Laris

28 | T K | f l a v o r d n a

CO

UR

TES

Y O

F G

OLD

BY

HA

RLA

N G

OLD

STEI

N

火鸡将在 Gold by Harlan Goldstein 的

圣诞大餐中缺席，取而代之的，是嫩

烤法式春鸡镶腊肠佐红莓酱。「许多

人认为圣诞夜少不了火鸡，但我就钟

情于春鸡，伴上红莓酱汁、胡桃、潘

娜朵妮 ( 意式圣诞面包 )、甜蛋酒，

总能让我沉浸在欢乐愉悦的节庆气氛

中。」

另一道主菜是主厨 Harlan Goldstein 的私藏料理之一－红酒炖牛

颊。牛颊在文火中细煮慢炖十八小时，

颊肉充分吸收酱汁的精华，让它拥有

「入口即化」的绵密口感。主厨说：「牛

颊是妈妈的拿手菜，浓郁的炖煮香气

在空气中弥漫着，宣告圣诞的到来。」

这份怀旧套餐是主厨 Harlan Goldstein对小时候圣诞记忆的忠实呈现，保证

每一道作品都精彩绝伦、绝无冷场。

不同于圣诞套餐，Harlan Goldstein 欢庆新年推出的除夕套餐较

为清爽，让用餐者能保留胃口，尽情

享用餐厅精心严选的美酒和香槟。「就

好像置身于「酒足饭饱，欲罢不能，

不知东方之天际白」之境，享受迎新

的美好时光。

除夕套餐将有黑鲔鱼寿司、鹅肝、

牛干菌黑松露野菇浓汤，让富有西班

牙风味的地中海料理为 2014 年完美

揭开序幕。

holiday meals as good as gold 欢庆时刻在「金」宵

Christmas Eve Dinner 平安夜晚宴 | HK$980

New Year’s Eve Dinner 除夕晚宴 | HK$1,380 Level 2, LKF Tower

33 Wyndham Street, Central Hong Kong

香港中环云咸街33号

LKF Tower 2楼

(852) 2869-9986

Above: Spanish blue fin tuna and foie gras, with beetroot, black ink crumbs and baby cress salad

西班牙蓝鳍吞

拿及鹅肝伴红

菜头、墨汁脆片

及香芹苗沙律

Right: Melt-in-Your-Mouth Wagyu Beef Cheek 入口即

溶的牛面颊肉

YOU WON’T FIND ANY TURKEY on the Christmas Eve Dinner menu at Gold by Harlan Goldstein. Instead, diners will delight in slow-cooked French Christmas Capon served with sausage stuffing, cranberry and natural jus. “A lot of people say you should have turkey but I prefer capon. Cranberry sauce, walnuts, panettone, and eggnog also make me feel festive!”

The alternate main course is one of Chef Harlan Goldstein’s favorites: beef cheek slow-cooked for eighteen hours to give it a “melt in your mouth” sensation. “This is really a mama’s dish, served with spiced sauce to get you in the mood,” he says. The multi-course meal is reminiscent of Goldstein’s childhood Christmas celebrations which would run late into the night and end “with a very full belly.”

By contrast, says Goldstein, his New Year’s Eve menu features lighter dishes, so that diners can enjoy lots of great wine and Champagne. “You will be able to hit the midnight toast till six in the morning.”

The New Year’s Eve menu sparkles with dishes ranging from sushi-style Spanish blue fin tuna and foie gras to wild mushroom consommé with fresh porcini and black truffle gnocchi. The Spanish Mediterranean flavors promise a satisfying kick start to 2014.

With his upcoming holiday menus at Gold by Harlan Goldstein in the LKF Tower, Chef Harlan Goldstein is breaking both eggs and customs.

f l a v o r d n a | T K | 29

tasting news

绿汀小舍

country cottage oasis

Roof Deck, Civic Square, Elements, 1 Austin Road West, Tsim Sha Tsui 香港九龙尖沙咀柯士甸道一号圆方的天台演荟广场

+852 2537 7555, www.sate.com.hk

CHRIS WOODYARD and BRONWYN CHEUNG, the husband and wife team (opposite page) behind Madame Sixty Ate, are welcoming a new member to their culinary family with the launch of Madam S’ate. Located in Elements Shopping Mall, the cuisine is contemporary French with selections designed for all-day eats, leisurely weekend brunches, lovely dinners, and quick coffees and pastries. Heading up the kitchen is New Zealand native George Scott-Toft (left), who has cooked his way through the kitchens of a long list of highly acclaimed restaurants in Sydney, Melbourne and London.

Designed as a play on a country cottage, Madam S’ate aims to provide a homey oasis in the hubbub of bustling Hong Kong. Patrons can relax with a glass of wine from the restaurant’s extensive list on the alfresco courtyard or enjoy a boutique beer or Champagne indoors at the bar. It’s an atmosphere that promises to fool diners into thinking they’re vacationing in the French countryside, if only for a few hours.

Chris Woodyard 和 Bronwyn Cheung 夫妻档，

继 Madame Sixty Ate 餐厅之后，新开另一家姐

妹餐厅 Madam S’ate。餐厅位在圆方购物中心，

全日供应法式料理，成为周末早午餐、下午茶、

晚餐最佳新选择。来自纽西兰的主厨 George Scott-Toft，曾任职于许多知名餐厅，国家遍及

悉尼、墨尔本及伦敦。

Madam S’ate 外观就像间乡村度假别墅，

在熙攘繁忙的香港都会中打造如在家一般舒适、

令人身心放松的绿洲。不论是选择户外雅座小

酌，或是在吧台点杯啤酒或香槟，这里舒服闲

适的空间和气氛可以让人暂时远离尘嚣，仿佛

置身法国乡间别墅般悠闲自在。

CO

UR

TES

Y O

F M

AD

AM

E S’

AT

E

30 | T K | f l a v o r d n a

tasting news

taste weekJean-Luc Petitrenaud introduces a new generation of bon vivants to the French art of cooking and eating well.

味觉之周

He continues to keep it simple. A bread-making class is a hit with a keen group of middle school children who love working with the sticky dough. “We explain how to make dough but then we let the children shape it however they like. They really enjoyed it!”

In a tasting class, an attentive chef encourages the children to sniff diffferent coffee beans and to taste chocolate with different levels of cocoa to help them

understand the flavor spectrum within one food group.

“The most important thing is curiosity,” says Petitrenaud. “Don’t just eat mindlessly, guzzling like an animal. Think, and look and wonder about what you eat. I want La Se-maine du Goût to spark curiosity in its par-ticipants, not just for the cuisine of France but for the food they encounter wherever they go. You need to eat with your brain and heart as well as your mouth.”

FRANCE’S CULTURAL PROGRAM to promote French cuisine and spark an interest in gastronomy was launched in Macau on the 28th of October. Known as La Semaine du Goût (Taste Week), it was created by French TV personality and food writer Jean-Luc Petitrenaud as a way to educate children and young adults about how to eat well. In the peaceful gardens of The Seasons restaurant, a beautiful space tucked away in a corner of the Macau University of Science and Technology campus, Petitrenaud met with the press to talk about his vision for La Semaine du Goût in the Greater China region.

“When I came up with the idea for La Semaine du Goût twenty-four years ago, the French Prime Minister, Lionel Jospin, told me, ‘Fine – come to Paris. Bring five hundred chefs and artisans and see if it is a success. But if it does not work out, then we scratch it.’”

Petritrenaud’s plan was simple: a chef would visit a school to explain to the children the importance of using good, fresh ingredients; to encourage them to recognize and taste different produce; and to think carefully about what they eat. It worked. La Semaine du Goût was a success, and the program has continued to grow. Last year in France around 7,000 chefs delivered classes to schools all over France.

“ This year we are br inging the program to Asia for the first time,” says Petitrenaud. “We want to see how the children respond and then next year we will make the program bigger.”

La Semaine du Goût in France

32 | T K | f l a v o r d n a

为推广法国料理并推展烹饪，味觉之周 (La Semaine du Goût) 法国饮食教育活动 10月 28 日在澳门举行，由法国著名电视人

兼美食评论家 Jean-Luc Petitrenaud 主持，

让儿童与年轻人学习饮食的艺术。 Jean-Luc Petitrenaud 在澳门科技大学校园 The Seasons 教学餐厅的宁静庭园中，畅谈他

对大中华区味觉之周的看法。

「二十四年前我想到味觉之周这项计

划，和当时法国总理利昂内尔 ·若斯潘谈过。

他说：好，到巴黎来吧，带五百位厨师和

工匠来试试看。但如果不成功，这计画就

一笔勾销。」

Petritrenaud 的计划很简单：由一位

厨师造访学校，和孩子解释优质、新鲜食

材的重要，鼓励他们认识、品尝不同食品，

然后仔细思考自己吃了什么。结果计划奏

效，味觉之周很成功，这几年规模持续扩

大，去年法国就有约 7,000 名厨师造访法

国各地的学校。

Petritrenaud 说：「今年这项计划第一

次在亚洲举办，我们希望看到孩子的反应，

然后明年再扩大举办。」

Petritrenaud 依然让计划保持单纯。

其中有堂面包课大受中学生欢迎，大家兴

致勃勃地揉捏湿黏的面团。「我们先说明

怎么制作面团，然后让孩子随自己的意思

切割面团。他们都玩得很高兴！」在食品

鉴赏课中，一位厨师鼓励孩子嗅闻咖啡豆，

并品尝可可含量不同的巧克力，让他们了

解一种食物可以有多种不同程度的风味。

Petitrenaud 说：「最要紧的是有好奇

心，吃的时候要用心，不要像动物一样狼

吞虎咽。吃东西时要思考、观察、懂得欣

赏。我希望味觉之周的活动能燃起参与者

的好奇心，不仅是对法国料理，到任何地

方吃任何食物都一样。吃东西不仅要用嘴

巴，也要用脑、用心。」Jean-Luc Petitrenaud

f l a v o r d n a | T K | 33

molteni, meet hong kong

登陆香港

inspired living

THE ANNOUNCEMENT is more than enough to get any chef’s heart racing: Molteni stoves are now available in Hong Kong and Macau. The ranges combine beauty and durability, with a shiny enamel finish and sleek brass fittings. Since each is designed to the exact specifications of the professional or home chef who will be using it, no two are the same. If the stove is the heart of the kitchen, none beats stronger than a Molteni.

这项消息足以使所有主厨心跳加速：高级

炉具品牌 Molteni 已正式登陆香港及澳门。 Molteni 炉具美观与耐用兼具，搪瓷炉面闪

耀动人，黄铜配件时尚雅致。每组炉具都是

根据专业主厨与家庭厨房实际需求量身订做，

保证独一无二。如果说炉具是厨房的心脏，

那么最强而有力的非 Molteni 莫属！

+852 2915 0250, www.madison-asia.com CO

UR

TES

Y O

F M

OLT

ENI

34 | T K | f l a v o r d n a

sponsored featureinspired living

f l a v o r d n a | T K | 35

inspired living

Christofle’s Jardin d’Eden

flatware

silver space银烁时空

inspired living

What is so special about silver?Silver has antibacterial properties –

it naturally kills germs. It is used in the pharmacy industry for this reason – it’s very hygienic. And it is used in space – lots of satellites are made with silver as it has no contaminants. People don’t realize this same timeless element that is used in tableware is also orbiting the earth. That’s why I like silver. It is beautiful, raw and technical all at the same time – a mysterious material. In my job I can explore all the possibilities silver has to offer.

How is eating with silver cutlery a different experience?

You feel a different vibration from silver when you put it in your mouth. It almost has a taste. I don’t know if you have ever drunk Champagne from a silver goblet but the sensation is different – creamy and smooth. Silver conserves heat very well, so it will keep your food hotter on its journey to your mouth. It also helps to retain the cold, so ice cream eaten from a silver spoon won’t melt as quickly. It is magical!

Is silver difficult to care for? Some people are afraid to use silver. A

hundred years ago we had servants to clean our silver. The new generation may worry that it is difficult to look after but you can put Christofle flatware in the dishwasher – you always could. It’s wonderful when beautiful objects have a function. The combination means you can use them in your life and to use beauty is an idea I love. That is what Christofle is for. You should use silver flatware every day.

银的特别之处？

银有抗菌的特性，自然有杀菌效果，

也因其高度卫生，常为制药产业所用。银

连在外太空也不缺席，可用来制作卫星，

屏除所有污染源。很多人可能完全没有想

到，桌上的餐具与围绕地球运转的卫星用

的都是同一种经典材质。银集美丽、天然

未加工及科技于一身，散发不可思议的气

息，让我心醉不已。也因工作关系，我得

以一探银器蕴含的各种可能性。

用银制餐具用餐的不同之处？

银制餐具放入嘴里产生不一样的振动，

仿若携带独特味道。有用银杯喝过香槟的

话就知道，入口的感觉绵密又滑顺，令人

惊艳。银器的保温及保冷性均无懈可击，

熟食入口前保证温热温度不易流失；冰淇

淋用银汤匙大快朵颐时融化速度也较慢，

简直只能用神奇两字形容！

Stephane Parmentier

Mined from the earth, coating satellites in space and formed into the most exquisite tools for us to dine with, silver is

versatile and beautiful. Christofle’s Creative Director Stephane Parmentier talks with TK about his favorite element. § 自地底采掘而出，可用来制作太空卫星的涂层，也能幻化为餐桌上的优雅器皿，「银」功能多元，美得令人

屏息。银器顶级品牌Christofle创意总监Stephane Parmentier接受TK专访，畅谈银器让他着迷之处。

CO

UR

TES

Y O

F C

HR

ISTO

FLE

/ V

INC

ENT

TH

IBER

T, D

EREK

HU

DS

ON

Christofle is nearly two hundred years old. How do you draw on all that tradi-tion in the 21st century?

For me modernity and tradition are just two different expressions of the same face. My interpretation of modernity is eclecticism, a new generosity, sharing, working a different way, having a new approach to things. We are working with the same material we used two hundred years ago – silver. And we are drawing on the know-how and techniques from nearly two centuries of experience. That won’t change. But what we are changing is how we present it. It’s a little like cooking. With the same ingredients everybody creates their own recipes in their own styles. We want to express that through silver.

Modernity for me is a snapshot of time, of what is happening now. With our designs we keep to our core values of elegance, but we express the period of time through our work. And it is interesting, because you can mix 19th century Christofle pieces with our latest ranges on the same table and it works beautifully. Eclecticism is modern – people enjoy it. I love it when tables feel free, when people can express themselves by playing with how they arrange things.

What’s your favorite piece of cutlery?I love specific tools for specific jobs, the

ones people don’t know about. We have beautiful lobster forks, ice cream spoons with squared edges, delicate strawberry spoons and large rice spoons. These items are like the eccentric members of your family – they have a lot of character. I love this

extravagance, the decadence of having one spoon for one purpose.

Could you share an example of how Christofle has combined tradition and modernity in one of its designs?

Our biggest revolution is with the Jardin d’Eden range. The blade of the knife is engraved using a laser – this modern technology. But the pattern is reminiscent of baroque style. The elegance is traditional and glorious, with acanthus leaves and a sense of lush foliage in the design. What is really different about this range is that the back of the spoon is engraved. There is a cultural reason for this. In France, when we lay the table we place the spoons with their rounded backs uppermost. This gives us a beautiful surface to play with, so we decorate it. But there is a real challenge to engrave a curved surface and we had to find a state-of-the-art machine to ensure that the engraving was equal all over the area – that is tough to do! But you have this marriage of cutting edge technology and antique design. The designer understood how to express modernity and tradition in one item.

What is your vision for the future of Christofle – what would you like to see next?

In the future I would like to see flatware that transcends all traditional, religious and cultural boundaries and suits different foods from different countries. This could be the future: something that pleases the whole planet.

inspired living

银器是否难以保养？

有些人很怕用银器，几百年前还有专

门清理银器的仆人，但时序来到现代，大

家可能担心保养会很麻烦。不过要清洗

Christofle 餐具其实很简单，随时放进洗碗

机就能搞定。器皿赏心悦目，同时功能性强，

可说再完美不过了。美的事物用于日常生

活中，我绝对双手赞成。这正是 Christofle的理念，银制餐具就该每天使用。

Christofle 有将近两百年的历史。如何将

历年传统与 21 世纪的创新作法完美融合？

现代这个概念有点像是抓住发生在当

下的吉光片羽。对我而言，就是兼容并蓄，

以海纳百川的心态相互分享、尝试不同的

做事方式及创新手法。我们自前人的秘诀

及技术中汲取经验，两百年来始终如一，

不同之处在于呈现方式。设计保留品牌一

贯优雅的核心风格，又呈现出当代特色。

混搭着品牌的 19 世纪和最新系列餐具，想

来就趣味无限，恣意排列餐具组合，餐桌

上毫无禁锢，正是我所乐见的。

和我们分享一下您最爱的餐具。

我喜欢大家还摸不太清楚、有特殊目的性

的工具，像是造型美仑美奂的龙虾叉、边

角正方的冰淇淋匙、精致的草莓匙及大型

的饭匙等，都是属于家中餐具里的异类，

个个风格独具。单只汤匙只为特种目的而

制，这种奢华及气势让我只能说大呼过瘾。

Christofle 结合传统及现代的设计，是否

有实例可分享？

Jardin d’Eden 是我们最具突破性的系

列，刀锋以最新科技雷射所刻制，画的却

是浓浓巴洛克风格的图腾。传统又突显辉

煌历史，上面还有莨苕叶及枝繁叶茂的意

象。系列汤匙背面以雕刻制成，可说是系

列的最大不同。法国的餐桌文化中，汤匙

背面上摆，浑圆的匙杓正可让我们挥洒、

装饰的尽善尽美。但要在弧形的匙杓上雕

刻可没那么容易，技术最先进的机台才能

让表面刻画保持一致，可谓得来不易！但

成果极好，正是最新科技及仿古设计的最

佳结合。设计师于银器中融合现代及传统

于一身，功力了得。

您对 Christofle 的愿景为何，对未来的期

盼？

我希望餐具在未来能突破传统、宗教

及文化藩篱，一体适用于各国风味不同的

特色料理。这或许是大势所趋：一种东西

走遍天下，不管是谁都能取悦。

Christofle’s etched silver Graffiti Tray

CO

UR

TES

Y O

F C

HR

ISTO

FLE

/ V

INC

ENT

TH

IBER

T, L

UX

PR

OD

UC

TIO

NS

38 | T K | f l a v o r d n a

inspired living

Christofle’s Commodore flatware

Stylish ideas for the child connoisseur in your life

gifts for little gourmets小美食家之礼

inspired living

Fresco Bloom Baby Chair

A fully-adjustable throne that will fit in any modern kitchen. 给孩子的宝座，调整方便，风格

时尚，完美融入用餐空间。

£470. Available exclusively online, www.johnlewis.com

Mono Kids Smile Set

The circles at the base of the utensils help little hands grip. 餐具顶端的圆形造型让小手更好抓握。

£65 www.mono.de

Tiffany 1837™ Baby Cup

Swap sippy cups for sophisticated sterling silver. 有了精致的纯银杯，谁还要吸管杯？

HKD41,500 +852 2845 9853 zh.tiffany.com

40 | T K | f l a v o r d n a

inspired living

Getting into the holiday spirit with beautiful basics

christmas staples佳节特色小物

NOËL Annual Ornament, clear

Start a new tradition of commemorating every Christmas with a special ornament.

今年起，用新巧饰品来为

圣诞节锦上添花吧!

HKD1,000, +852 2895 6001 www.baccarat.com

Raynaud “Attraction” Coffee Cup

Pour hot chocolate into this candy cane-striped cup and drink up the flavors of the season.

在拐杖糖条纹杯里倒入热呼呼的巧克

力，喝一口洋溢浓浓节庆味的幸福。

HKD1,270. +852 2530 0686 www.heatherandmarch.com

La Maison du Chocolat Holiday Macaron Gift Box

The shimmery gold box opens to reveal six macarons – perfect for snacking or tucking underneath the tree.

打开金光闪闪的礼盒，六个美

丽的马卡龙映入眼帘，这是节

庆小点的好选择，也适合摆在

圣诞树下作为甜蜜礼物。

HKD180. +852 2196 8333 www.lamaisonduchocolat.com

NOËL Courchevel Fir Tree

Short on time (or space) this holiday season? Set out this stunning cut crystal pine and consider the decorating done. 没时间（或空间）为佳节作准

备？这株优雅美丽的水晶圣诞

树，省下您装饰的烦恼。

HKD2,900, +852 2895 6001 www.baccarat.com

f l a v o r d n a | T K | 41

Illustrations of cinnamon and nutmeg merchants from a 15th century French herbal hint at the central importance of spices in the Medieval European pantry.

from the nest of a phoenix凤巢稀宝

food art

在 15 世纪法国草本志的一幅肉桂及肉豆蔻

商人图像中，展现了香料于中古世纪欧洲

餐桌上的不凡地位。中世纪的欧洲，远从

东方而来的香料可说是餐桌上的亮点，是

流行时髦的代名词。现今在中国、印度及

东南亚一带，常见的甜酸调味为上流阶层

贵客的味蕾带来全新感受。进口的香料在

当时备受推崇、所费不赀，成为了上流社

会用来宴客的不二之选。各种香料间还有

排行，胡椒正是其中的王道。自罗马时代

起，欧洲人可说无胡椒不欢，买得起的几

乎每道菜都要加上这一味。另外姜、丁香、

肉豆蔻、肉桂及地方所产的番红花也在香

料榜中名列前茅，大受威尼斯商人、医师

或庄园城堡大厨们的青睐。

当时欧洲人对于大部分香料的来源一

无所知，而此种异国的神秘感正是让东方

香料身价不凡、大受欢迎的原因。香料进

出口路径及生意一手抓的中世纪阿拉伯商

人经商有道，大肆以神话故事包装商品，

让欧洲贵客们听得津津有味。其中一个故

事讲到印度的巨鸟在海滩边的悬崖上用偌

大肉桂枝筑巢，猎人们意在肉桂，便于海

滩上摆放大块肉片引诱巨鸟衔叼回巢，趁

鸟巢承受不住肉块重量翻覆时，捡拾散落

于地的肉桂枝。其他还有融入飞天大蛇、

复仇的蝙蝠、凤凰，甚至真人献祭天神等

与香料相关杜撰的奇幻传说。

IN THE MIDDLE AGES, spices from the East were at the heart of fashionable dining in Europe. The combination of sweet and sour flavors prevalent today in dishes from China, India and Southeast Asia provides insight into the taste palette of upper-class medieval Europeans. While all imported spices were highly prized and priced in Medieval Europe – they were used predominately by the upper classes to impress banquet guests – there was a hierarchy of importance. Pepper was king. Europeans who could afford to had been adding it to almost every dish since Ancient Roman times. Also topping the purchase lists of Venetian traders, physicians and castle cooks were ginger, cloves, nutmeg, cinnamon and locally produced saffron.

For Europeans, the origins of most spices were steeped in mystery, and this aura of the exotic contributed significantly to their popularity. Arab traders, who controlled the spice routes and dominated exportation during the Middle Ages, actively propagated the numerous fantastical tales that European consumers bought into with relish. According to one story, giant birds made their nests from huge cinnamon sticks on cliffs above beaches in India. Cinnamon hunters were said to leave huge hunks of meat on the beach which the birds would take back to their nests. The weight of the meat would cause a nest to collapse and fall to the ground where the sticks could be collected. Flying snakes, vengeful bats, phoenixes and human sacrifices to various gods featured in other, ever more fantastical accounts of spice acquisition.

Medicine, spices and cooking were intertwined in Medieval Europe. The miniatures featured here, which come from a

DEA

GO

STIN

I P

ICT

UR

E LI

BR

AR

Y/S

CA

LA,

FLO

REN

CE

42 | T K | f l a v o r d n a

sponsored feature

sponsored feature

FROM AS FAR BACK as the days of the Roman Empire, Italy has had a love affair

with the diverse cured meats known as salumi. From prosciutto crudo and

prosciutto cotto, to salame, mortadella, pancetta, and coppa, the centuries-old

methods of curing meats are a delicious part of Italy’s ancient food heritage.

Mostly made from pork, salumi can also be made from beef, lamb, and other

meats. Some are salt-cured, smoked and air-dried, while others are preserved

in fats or cooked into sausages and pates. SalumiAmo, an Italian initiative to

celebrate, share and raise awareness of these specialty cured meats, is making

its debut in Hong Kong and Macau from 15 November to 6 December 2013. At

Master Classes and special tasting evenings, Italian Chef Fabio Ugoletti will

present some of the finest cured meats and describe the traditional methods

for making them. Guests can sample a variety of salumi at Aqua Spirit, Aqua

Armani and GIANDO from 20-22 November; at DiVino, DiVino Patio and

Spasso from 27-29 November; at Gaia, Joia and DOMANI Restaurant

from 4-6 December, and at Aurora at Altira Macau from the 24-27 and 29

November. Venue courtesy of GIANDO restaurant. § 说起意大利对腌制

肉品的热情，不得不远朔到罗马帝国时期，这些历经世代更替淬炼创造

出的各式腌肉，通称「salumi」(萨路米)。不论是巴马火腿、熟火腿、萨

拉米香肠、摩德代拉香肠、意大利切片培根和库巴式风干火腿，这些遵

循古法而制的美味肉品，是意大利最珍贵的饮食文化资产。意大利腌肉

最常使用猪肉，有时也用牛、羊或者其他肉类。肉品制法很多种，像是

抹上盐巴腌渍、烟熏风干、浸泡在油中，或碾碎成泥作成腊肠或抹酱。

首届SalumiAmo，将于十一月十五日到十二月六日在香港和澳门首度隆

重登场，除了赞扬、分享意大利美食，更借此机会让更多人认识这些美

味无比的意大利腌肉。在美食讲座与品评会上，主厨 Fabio Ugoletti 将准

备上等意大利腌肉，并逐步解说制作腌肉的独特秘方。您可于以下时间

与地点亲尝各式美味的意大利腌肉：11月20至22日在 Aqua Spirit、Aqua

Armani 和 GIANDO；11月27至29日在 DiVino, DiVino Patio 和 Spasso；

12月4至6日在 Gaia, Joia 和 DOMANI；11月24至27以及29日在澳门新濠

锋酒店奥罗拉餐厅。EDM

ON

LEO

NG

PROSCIUTTO CRUDOBoth prosciutto di San Daniele and prosciutto di Parma come from the rear thighs of local pigs. The legs are rubbed with salt and then washed, brushed, dried, and left to age for at least twelve months. During the aging process, they lose more than a quarter of their weight as the salt soaks up the moisture, giving the meat a strong, concentrated flavor. / 圣丹尼耶尔火腿和巴马火腿皆以产地

命名，取自当地养殖猪只的后腿肉，抹

以盐巴使其入味，再冲洗、刷净多余盐

分，悬挂风干至少十二个月。熟成过程

中，腿肉重量减少约四分之一，盐分充

分吸附油脂，使肉片散发出浓郁香气。

f l a v o r d n a | T K | 77

MORTADELLA Made from finely-ground, heat-cured pork sausage, Mortadella originated in Bologna and gets its name from the mortar and pestle it was once made with. Black pepper adds spice to the meat, while pistachios give it texture. To be a true Mortadella, the ratio of pork to fat must be correct and each slice must have an evenly distributed amount of its highly-prized fat lardons. / 摩德代拉香肠是将猪

肉碾碎、加入香料后灌入肠衣并下锅烹煮而成。源自于波隆那，以制作香肠使用的

研钵和杵命名。黑胡椒使香肠充满香气，开心果带出它微脆的口感。道地的摩德

代拉香肠，肉中油脂比例是不能轻忽的，必须让每片肉片都含有均匀分布的油花。

SALAMEA mixture of lean pork, fat, salt, pepper and garlic gives salame its typical marbled appearance. The meat is left to ferment before being placed into casings, tied and matured. The ratio of protein to fat, color, taste, texture and size are carefully controlled: each salame is approximately fifteen centimeters long and less than six wide. / 肥猪肉和瘦肉混合，盐、胡椒、

大蒜交错其间，形成萨拉米香肠典型大理

石纹路。经过灌肠衣、捆绑、熟成后，透

过发酵腌制出独特风味。制作过程中，蛋

白质和脂肪的比例、色泽、香味、口感、

尺寸都必须严谨地监控；每条萨拉米香肠

必须是十五公分长、厚度不能超过六公分。

sponsored feature

EDM

ON

LEO

NG

78 | T K | f l a v o r d n a

sponsored feature

PROSCIUTTO COTTOProsciutto cotto is the cooked variety of prosciutto, and is renowned for its velvety texture and sweet, aromatic flavor. Prime, deboned pork thigh is massaged with salt, pepper, bay leaves and juniper and steamed in a special rounded mold. The skin is left on the meat to lock in the moisture and flavors. / Prosciutto cotto指煮过的火腿，

以柔软滑顺的口感和香甜芬芳的味道而闻名。帕马火腿使用去骨猪大腿肉，保留猪皮

以锁住油脂和香气，浸入以盐巴、胡椒、月桂叶和松子混合的香料充分按摩，接着放

入特殊的圆锅熬煮而成。

sponsored feature

Christmas is the season to share great food with great company and restaurants at Galaxy Macau™ are getting into the spirit with holiday menus that showcase their signature Christmas dishes. Celebrate the festive season and satisfy every holiday craving with classic Christmas dishes at Galaxy Macau.

「澳河 ™」综合渡假城推出经典圣诞

大餐，与您同庆欢乐佳节。圣诞节最适合

与亲朋好友共享美味佳肴，渡假城内各家

餐厅秉持欢度圣诞的精神，推出各式招牌

圣诞餐点，菜色多元，佳节美馔应有尽

有，定能满足每一个食客欢度假期的渴望。

’tis the season欢乐迎佳节

Christmas Pudding With Brandy SauceFestiva: Executive Sous Chef Daniel SheenFestiva Chef Daniel Sheen uses a 100-year-old recipe to make his Christmas pudding, but has given it a little twist to make it deliciously moist and even tastier. He soaks the dried fruits for six months before Christmas and adds alcohol every week to retain and intensify the flavors. Flavored with nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves, ginger, and apple, Chef Sheen says cooking with passion and love is the secret to a wonderful Christmas pudding.

圣诞布丁配白兰地汁

群芳餐厅 : 行政总厨戴宏翱

行政总厨戴宏翱以流传百年的作法制作圣诞布丁，并稍加变化，使之更湿润美味。

在圣诞节前六个月，他就开始浸泡水果干，并且每个礼拜都多加点酒以保存并

强化水果的味道，之后再加入肉豆蔻、肉桂、丁香、生姜、苹果等配料。总厨

认为，对甜点抱持着爱与热情，就是做出美味圣诞布丁的关键秘方。

80 | T K | F L A V O R D N A

sponsored feature

Home-Smoked Salmon Carpaccio, Almond and Dill Pesto, Arugula, and Lemon Oil FoamTerrazza: Chef de Cuisine Gleb SneginSalmon can be found on the tables of many Italian families at Christmas. For this dish, Chef Gleb Snegin smokes the salmon with real pinewood, which gives it a slightly sweet, smoky flavor that contrasts beautifully with the bitterness of the arugula and crunchy almonds. To slice perfect carpaccio, says Chef Snegin, you need a perfectly sharpened knife, strong and steady hands, and a precise eye.

自制烟熏三文鱼薄片配杏仁刁草酱、火箭菜及柠檬油泡沫

庭园意大利餐厅 : 总厨格雷宝

三文鱼是圣诞节许多意大利家庭的桌上佳肴。为了这道菜，总厨格雷宝特别选

用纯正松木熏制三文鱼，使三文鱼带有微甜的烟熏味，再配上微苦的芝麻菜及

香脆的杏仁。总厨表示，要切好熏三文鱼薄片，除了刀子要锋利，手要稳且够力，

眼睛判断下刀位置也得精确才行。

f l a v o r d n a | T K | 81

Cod Fish Fillet With Cod Fish Tongue Rice and Coriander Gosto: Chef de Cuisine Mario GilCod fish is the most common ingredient on Portuguese tables at Christmas time, and tradition demands that it must be served with cabbage, egg and baked potatoes. Gosto Chef de Cuisine Mario Gil has created a dish that represents the season and gives diners the enjoyment of classic Portuguese comfort food. Portuguese cuisine perfectly combines garlic, olive oil and coriander, and this delicious trio of ingredients is cooked sous-vide with the cod fish, sealing in all the flavors and aromas and ensuring the perfect texture.

特色马介休

葡轩：总厨马俊杰

马介休是葡萄牙在圣诞节时最常见的食材，传统上通常搭配包心菜、蛋与烤马

铃薯。总厨马俊杰设计的这道佳肴不仅带出了佳节氛围，更让食客享受到令人

大呼满足的经典葡萄牙美食。这道葡萄牙料理选用大蒜、橄榄油和香菜，再将

这三种食材与马介休一起真空低温烹调，封存所有的滋味与香气，口感绝佳。

sponsored feature

82 | T K | f l a v o r d n a

sponsored feature

Christmas Chocolate Yule LogCascades: Pastry Chef de Cuisine Grosse SmitaSince medieval times, it has been a tradition to bake Yule Log cakes for Christmas Eve. Chef Grosse Smita prepares her Yule Log the old-fashioned way, with chocolate as the main ingredient, but favors a more contemporary presentation. Rich and chocolaty, flavored with festive gingerbread crumbs, the Yule Log is paired with a creamy vanilla sauce or a sweet-sour raspberry coulis.

圣诞节日蛋糕

水帘：糕饼总厨殷柏维

从中世纪时期开始，在圣诞节前夕烤圣诞树头蛋糕成为一个传统习俗。糕饼总

厨殷柏维以朱古力为主原料，采用传统方式烘培，但外表展现现代美。朱古力

味浓郁，撒上充满节庆气氛的姜饼面包屑，再搭配香滑的云尼拿酱或酸甜的覆

盆子酱，滋味满分。CO

UR

TES

Y O

F G

ALA

XY

F L A V O R D N A | T K | 83

tasting notes

Executive Chef Adam Cliff

Chachawan Executive Chef Adam Cliff revels in the native flavors of authentics food.

Isaan ingenuity泰正宗依善菜

sponsored featuretasting notes

THAILAND’S RURAL NORTHEASTERN REGION is called Isaan. Bordered by Laos and the Mekong River to the north and east, and by Cambodia to the south, it is a flat, hot region dominated by rice paddies and big skies. Isaan’s farmers keep enough rice to feed their families and then sell the surplus to buy other food. Money is tight. Most Isaan people can’t buy large quantities of meat or vegetables, and so their self-sufficient cui-sine relies on a repertoire of strong, salty, sour, and spicy seasonings to flavor dishes accompanied by plenty of rice.

Chachawan Executive Chef Adam Cliff delights in the native flavors and ingredi-ents of Isaan. “Sourness is provided by Thai limes,” he explains. “They are sharper than any other limes I have tasted. If you swal-low their juice unsweetened it makes the glands in your neck wince.” Together with the astringent Thai limes, Isaan cuisine uses different chilies for different flavor purposes. “Isaan cuisine uses six or seven different fresh chilies,” explains Cliff. “Some deliver a kick, others are more floral.”

Fresh herbs feature frequently in Isaan dishes. “It’s a very adaptable cuisine,” says Cliff. “Instead of going to a shop … the people of Isaan walk down the street or wander into their jungle to collect a bouquet of herbs and cook with them.” Thailand’s

在泰国东北，大片乡地被称「依善 (Isaan)」区，气候温热，地势平坦，放眼尽是稻

田及广阔天空。依善农家务农首要填饱肚

子，多余农获才另行贩售来购买其他食

物。因手头不宽裕，依善人大多无法大量

买进肉类或蔬菜，故地方菜色使用咸、酸、

辣等重口味调配，增添菜肴的风味来下

饭。

香港「Chachawan」泰式餐馆行政总厨

Adam Cliff 对依善菜的独特风味及食材情

有独钟：「依善菜的酸来自泰国莱姆，味道

是我尝过最酸最呛的，只喝果汁不稀释，

绝对酸到让你颈部抽搐。除了莱姆，依善

料理也善用多种辣椒营造味道。」他强调：

「至少六到七种辣椒，有些带辣劲，其他则

偏花香气息。」

依善菜也常见新鲜草本植物。总厨表

示：「依善料理因地制宜，适应性强，当

地人通常在路边或丛林中采集草木，放入

料理烹煮。」因雨季甚长，辣椒肥厚，而

野生植物汁多、个头大，却不对 Cliff 的胃

口：「植物含水量高，味道就稀释了，反

而是干季的植物味道浓郁，适合入菜烹调

依善料理。」

依善菜常用高良姜、鲜姜黄及柠檬草等

草本植物来调和肉类的特有骚味。Cliff 进

一步说明：「依善文化中，鸡鸭或猪都在家

放养，喂食及成长都与别国如澳洲或法国

等大相径庭，因而味道更强也偏浓重。」但

肉骚味反而是亮点：「吃依善菜就要这味，

在肉骚和花香草本气味间取得巧妙平衡。

Khao Niew 28:

steamed Thai Sticky Rice

蒸泰国糯米饭

f l a v o r d n a | T K | 85

tasting notes

Gai Yung 158: chicken thigh marinated for 24 hours in garlic, pepper, and coriander; then grilled till crispy; served with jhim jeaw

24小时以蒜头、胡椒、辣椒、芫荽

腌制的鸡腿，佐以Jhim Jeaw酱

86 | T K | f l a v o r d n a

long wet season swells the chilies and makes the wild herbs plump and juicy. Cliff thinks this is not such a great thing: “The prob-lem is that the flavor becomes diluted by the amount of water in the plants. In the dry season the herbs have the intensity you need when cooking Isaan dishes.”

Herbs like galangal, fresh turmeric and lemongrass are used to complement a musky quality in the meat. “Chickens, pigs and ducks are raised in the house in Isaan cul-ture. Their feed and upkeep is very different than for animals raised, say, in Australia or France. Their flavor is stronger and more intense.” But Cliff does not feel the musk-iness of the meat is a negative; quite the reverse: “You need it. Isaan dishes need that interplay between musky meat and floral herbs. I have actually struggled using meats that lacked that muskiness – we couldn’t hit the proper flavor notes.”

Cliff has an instinctive understanding of how spices interact with the ingredients they season. One point he highlights is the role of fat in a dish. His chopped duck salad is given some heat with dried, roasted, and ground chili peppers, and then fragranced with kaffir lime leaves, long leaf coriander, and spring onions. “This dish has a round-ness to it. The fat from the duck coats your mouth and helps mute the heat of the chili. There’s a meatiness and spiciness which is very satisfying.”

By contrast, his classic papaya salad is prepared without any oil whatsoever. Long shreds of fresh green papaya are mixed with sliced red chilies and tiny whole peanuts, sourced from Thailand for their firm, dry texture. The dressing combines richly sweet

palm sugar with sharp Thai lime. “I like to serve this salad with a grilled chicken dish on the side,” says Cliff. “It just needs that fat from the chicken, to give you a satisfy-ing mouth feel.”

The palm sugar Cliff uses is a subject close to his heart. He favors organic, which comes as a pure, smooth paste. “Natural palm sugar has a caramel flavor that lingers on the palate. It has a more gentle sweet-ness, like molasses. We don’t want the sweet notes coming up too loudly. Artificial white sugar has a harshness that damages the other flavors in a dish.”

But the main event in Isaan food is the sticky rice. “Sticky rice is what is grown in the Isaan region. It takes longer to digest than jasmine rice as there is more starch in it, so it makes the perfect meal after a long

day working on the farm, and goes perfectly with robustly flavored Isaan dishes.” Sticky rice can also be used to add texture and flavor to dipping sauces. “I take uncooked rice, toast it off in a pan, then grind it to a powder,” says Cliff. “The resulting flour is used to add body to dishes and is more flavorful than plain rice flour. My grilled chicken has toasted rice powder in its dip-ping sauce.”

To get an authentic Isaan flavor, Cliff sources 85 percent of his ingredients directly from Thailand. “We have one or two deliv-eries a day. The most expensive ingredients that I buy are Thai limes – I air freight them in and they are really heavy! Some people use bottled lime juice or local limes but I say you can’t skimp. You need that perfect sour-ness to create a true Isaan dish.”

处理不带骚味的肉倒让我施展不开，找不

到恰好味道。」

总厨对于香料如何画龙点睛有敏锐直觉，

菜中油脂是注重地方之一。如切片鸭肉沙

拉佐以干烤的磨碎胡椒增加了入口的灼热

感，再加上青柠叶、长叶胡荽及青葱增添

气味。他形容：「这菜吃来口感圆润，鸭肉

油脂覆住口腔，正好作为胡椒呛辣口感的

缓冲，肉汁满溢同时又带辣呛口感，着实

叫人心满意足。」

Cliff 的青木瓜沙拉则走清淡路线，鲜青

木瓜刨成长丝，加上切片红辣椒及泰国干

硬扎实的特有小型花生，酱汁用甜腻的棕

榈糖及爽呛的泰国莱姆调制。「青木瓜沙拉

搭配烤鸡再适合不过，搭配鸡肉肉汁享用，

绝对大呼过瘾。」所用的棕榈糖可说是总厨

的心头好，含有机成分且带纯净滑顺的浓

稠质感。他说：「天然的棕榈糖带些许焦糖

味，停在味蕾久久不去，但甜度不会太过，

就像糖蜜般温和，如此甜味才不至喧宾夺

主。人工白糖细致不够，会破坏料理的其

他美味。」

而依善菜主角非米饭莫属，总厨解释：

「依善地区的糯米内含淀粉比例高，相较茉

莉米需要更多消化时间，正好适合整天务

农的体力所需，与重口味的依善菜也是绝

配。」糯米运用得当，也可让沾酱口感及味

道更为丰富，Cliff 不吝分享：「米粒直接

放平底锅干烘后，磨成糯米粉，可增加料

理的整体份量，比一般白米粉味道更多元，

像我的特制烤鸡就可搭配加入糯米粉的沾

酱品尝。」

Cliff 为求原汁原味，高达百分之八十五

的食材都由泰国直送。他说：「一天进货一

到两次，而泰国莱姆重量重，又用空运，

花费最多！有人为方便用罐装莱姆汁或本

地产的莱姆，于我而言这钱可省不得。毕

竟没有恰好的酸味，又哪来正宗的依善菜

呢？」

tasting notes

f l a v o r d n a | T K | 87

tasting notes

Bombay Dreams Head Chef Devi Singh’s

fragrant dishes are food for the Gods.


tasting notes

Head Chef Devi Singh

“EVERY REGION OF INDIA uses spices in its cooking,” says Bombay Dreams Head Chef Devi Singh, surrounded by jars filled with powders, sticks and seeds. “We don’t eat bland food!”

Indian cooking uses both fresh herbs and dried spices. Beyond adding flavor to dishes, spices and herbs are also believed to have medicinal qualities – they warm the body, aid digestion and ward off disease. “We use spices in medicines as well as cooking,” explains Chef Singh. “White peppercorns are a component of cough syrup and cardamom is a key ingredient of skin cream.”

Fresh herbs feature in dishes that are cooked quickly and eaten immediately. Dried whole spices are added to stews, where they linger over a gentle heat for several hours, slowly releasing their sweet aromas. These whole spices can also be ground to a powder and toasted in oil, which is then used to cook meat or vegetables, adding a fragrant kick.

A large hot plate, known as a tawa, is sizzling loudly in Singh’s kitchen. On it he is searing small patties of ground chicken and bell pepper – Murgh Aur Hhare Pyaz ki Shammi. “This is typical Northern Indian

street food,” says Singh. “The patties themselves are fresh tasting and just have a little ginger, garlic and white pepper to season them. But we serve them with a sauce made from fresh green herbs and green chilies – that’s where the flavor comes from.” The sauce is a blend of mint, coriander, green chili and lemon juice. Bright green, the texture of mayonnaise, it tastes light but assertive with chili heat.

Nearby, bubbling quietly on the stove, is a Kashmiri delicacy called Lamb Rogan Josh – chunks of juicy lamb slow-cooked in a rich, thick sauce, flavored with an array of whole dried spices. “Dried spices need time to release their flavor, so we cook this dish over a low fire for a long time,” says Singh. Rogan Josh means “warming” – it’s a perfect dish for the chilly, mountainous reaches of Kashmir. A heady mix of whole chilies, cinnamon, cumin seeds, bay leaf, mace and two different types of cardamom produces the rich, spicy heat.

The two types of cardamom are very different in appearance. Small cardamom is a faded green, caper-shaped pod, which when cooked produces a scent like young

Bombay Dreams 主厨 Devi Singh 置身在一

罐罐香料粉末、条梗、种子之间，告诉我们：

「印度每个地区烹调都会使用香料，我们不

吃平淡无味的食物！」

印度料理同时使用新鲜香草与干燥香

料，除了增添菜肴风味，据信也有温暖身

体、帮助消化和祛除疾病的功效，颇具药

用价值。 Singh 解释：「香料既能入菜也能

入药，白胡椒粒可以用于止咳糖浆，小豆

蔻更是护肤霜的重要成分。」

现炒现吃的菜式中会加入新鲜香草，

炖煮菜色则加入整粒未研磨的干燥香料，

以文火炖上几个小时，慢慢释放芳香的气

味。整颗香料也可以磨成粉，放入油中加

热，用来烹煮肉类或蔬菜，增添诱人香气。

在 Singh 的厨房重地，大型铁板 (tawa) 烧得滋滋作响，上面烤着填入鸡蓉和甜椒

的小馅饼 (Murgh Aur Hhare Pyaz ki Sham-mi)。 Singh 说明：「这是经典的北印度小吃，

味道清新，只用一点姜、蒜、白胡椒调味，

但同时会附上新鲜绿色香草与绿辣椒做的

沾酱，吃起来滋味十足。」酱料混合了薄荷、

芫荽、绿辣椒及柠檬汁，调配好的酱汁呈

现鲜绿色，质地如同蛋黄酱，滋味清爽但

火辣十足。

旁边炉上静静冒着泡泡的，是一道

喀什米尔名菜－小羊肉香料咖喱 (Lamb

tasting notes

Murgh Aur Hare Pyaz ki Shammi 香煎鸡肉饼

f l a v o r d n a | T K | 91

branches burning on a fire. It is placed whole into the curry and cooked slowly to liberate its pure, fresh fragrance. Large cardamom is a withered black pod. “This one we crush,” explains Singh. “We want the seeds from the inside.” The large cardamom seeds have a faint menthol taste and a mild numbing effect on the mouth.

One of the Bombay Dreams chefs has chipped loose a fragment from a large black salt crystal. As he pounds it to grey powder in a pestle, it releases a sulfurous scent, the smell of natural hot springs, pungent and verging on overpowering. “We call it black salt,” says Singh. “It smells a bit like eggs but it is really good for the stomach and it delivers a special flavor to the food – better than table salt.”

He uses the black salt in the Hyderabad dish Mirch Baingan Ka Salan – young eggplant simmered in rich peanut and almond gravy, fragranced with a mix of whole and powdered dried spices. To make the sauce, cumin seeds, mustard seeds and fenugreek are fried in a little oil. “Once you hear the seeds start to pop, it is time to add the vegetables,” says Singh. Further flavor

is provided by a mix of fifteen spices known as Garam Masala and another mysterious powder with a queer, darkly sour taste that Singh describes as “sweet-sour powder.” These different flavors meld together and complement each other. The sulfurous salt presents as a rich smoky note, the sweet-sour powder amplifies the quiet floral notes of the fenugreek and mustard and complements the smoky scent of the cumin. Finally Sing adds a little coconut milk, and the sweetness creates a final glorious flavor harmony.

From the kitchen, Singh fetches a pullao – a clay pot filled with perfect grains of basmati rice, sweet carrots and al dente cauliflower, all topped with strands of bright yellow saffron. Harvested from the centre of a crocus flower, just a few strands are sufficient to perfume a whole dish.

“We use a lot of different spices in our cooking,” says Singh. “You need to understand the individual aromas of the spices and then know how to combine them to create wonderful dishes. Different regions favor different spices but there is one that you find in every Indian kitchen. It’s the true flavor of India.”

Rogan Josh)。浓郁醇厚的酱汁中，加进好

几种整粒的干燥香料，放入大块鲜美多汁

的小羊肉，细火慢炖。 Singh 解释：「干燥香料要煮一段时

间才能释放风味，所以这道菜会以小火炖

上很长一段时间。」「Rogan Josh」的意思

是「变暖」，很适合喀什米尔寒冷的山陵

地区，整枝辣椒、肉桂、整粒小茴香籽、

月桂叶、肉豆蔻皮、两种不同的豆蔻，混

合在一起，那馥郁辛辣的香气，令人闻了

飘飘欲仙。

这道菜里的两种豆蔻外表大异其趣，

小豆蔻是浅绿色的豆荚，形状像酸豆，烹

煮后会放出燃烧的气味。烹煮时，整粒放

入咖喱中慢炖，释放纯净、清新的香味。

大豆蔻则是外表干瘪的黑色豆荚，Singh解释道：「这种香料要磨碎，只取里面的种

子。」大豆蔻子有淡淡的薄荷味，吃在嘴里

有点麻麻的。

Bombay Dreams 的厨师从一大块黑色

结晶盐上削下几粒，接着用槌子把盐块研

磨成灰色粉末，散发出一股硫磺气味，闻

起来像天然温泉，味道相当刺激，近乎刺鼻。 Singh 说：「这叫黑盐，闻起来有点像鸡蛋

的味道，不过它对胃很好，而且能赋予料

理独特的风味，比精盐好用。」

Singh 将黑盐运用在一道海得拉巴的

料理中，这道菜叫 Mirch Baingan Ka Sa-lan，用浓郁的花生杏仁肉汁煨茄子，并加

入各种整粒与粉状的干燥香料赋予菜式芬

芳气息。要做酱汁，首先用点油来炒小茴

香子、芥末籽、葫芦巴，Singh 告诉我们：「听

到种子爆开的声音，就表示可以加入蔬菜

了。」

接下来再加入混和十五种香料的印度

综合香料粉 Garam Masala，另加一种奇

特、带酸味的深色粉末，Singh 说这叫「酸

甜粉」。各种不同的香气共冶一炉，却能

彼此融合，相得益彰。硫磺味的盐富含烟

熏香气，酸甜粉强化了葫芦巴和芥末籽温

和的花香，并让小茴香的烟熏味更加圆满。

最后，Singh 还加了一点椰奶，用甜味打

造圆融顺口的整体风味，奏出和谐的最终

章。「我们在烹调时使用非常多不同的香

料，你要先了解每种香料独特的香气，才

能找到搭配方法，做出一道好菜。不同地

区偏好不同香料，但有种味道每家印度厨

房都找得到－那就是印度的纯正风味。」

tasting notes

Lamb Rogan Josh 辣椒洋葱煮羊肉

Murgh Aur Hhare Pyaz ki Shammi 孟

92 | T K | f l a v o r d n a

tasting notes

Tandoori Nisha: prawns marinated in yoghurt, lemon juice and spices and then grilled in the belly of a clay tandoor oven

香料窑烤虎虾 (Tandoori Nisha)：虎虾以酸奶、柠檬汁及香料腌制，并于泥制窑炉内烧烤

Saffron Pulao: clay pot filled with basmati rice, sweet carrots and cauliflower, topped with strands of saffron

藏红花饭(Saffron Pulao)：印度香米搭配红萝卜、外软内韧的花椰菜，上头点缀藏红花丝，以陶锅盛装

“ You need to understand the individual aromas of the spices and then know how to combine them to create wonderful dishes.你要先了解每种香

料独特的香气，才能

找到搭配方法，做出

一道好菜。 ”

F L A V O R D N A | T K | 93

In Old Delhi, India, TK Director of Photography David Hartung and Senior Writer Lucy Morgan take a walk along Khari Baoli Street to visit the world’s largest spice market.

Spice �orld香料王国

spice world

spice world

98 | T K | F L A V O R D N A

spice world

F L A V O R D N A | T K | 99

spice world

spice world

f l a v o r d n a | T K | 101

spice world

A BLUE HAZE HANGS ABO VE THE TREES on a crisp Delhi morning. People hug arms to bodies against the slight winter chill. Along the pavement, heaps of flower heads are piled high on plastic sheets, burnt orange and deep red marigolds alternating with the flat grey concrete that peeps through between each flower vendor’s space. A faint scent of roses softens the air.

Customers push their way between the vendors, eyeing the flowers keenly. The flower sellers have only a few hours before the shuttered shops behind them will open their doors and the street will fill with traders, all making their way to the suffocating lanes of Gadodia, the world’s largest wholesale spice market.

Three monkeys gambol along a plait of cables, traversing Khari Baoli, a busy street in Old Delhi’s Chandni Chowk district. Beneath them the road is packed with people moving sack loads of spices: rickshaws are piled high, men haul trolleys, porters known as coolie wallahs lug hessian sacks on their shoulders or balance stacks of boxes on their heads. An ox with horns painted the colors of the Indian flag lumbers past. A horse wearing blinkers pulls a cart loaded with rice.

The street fills with the sounds of horns, shouts and cries as each worker forces his way through the cars, draft animals and bicycles, all fighting to get to the same place. A man gives directions in Hindi: “The spice market is after the second tree on the left.” A dark-walled lane leads into a central courtyard encircled by four floors of shops. Each property is filled from floor to ceiling with sacks. Coolie wallahs ferry the sacks inside and pile them up, carrying bill hooks to steady the loads and cutlasses to slice them open.

德里一大清早，天气尚凉，树上方笼罩一片

蓝色薄雾，只见路上行人纷纷以手环绕胸前，

抵御那冬日寒意。人行道上，成堆花束在塑

胶布上叠得老高，也可看到褐橘及深红金盏

花交替，顺着灰色的斑驳土墙直趋隔壁摊位

一窥究竟。阵阵玫瑰芳香令人晕眩，稍加缓

解了空气中的紧绷气氛。

市集四处摩肩擦踵，客人在摊贩间穿梭，

眼中只有想要寻找的花。花贩时间不多，无

不大声贩售，因再过数小时，后方商店就要

开张，届时街道将满是贸

易商，全世界最大的香料

批发市场「Gadodia」周

边大街小巷都将挤得水泄

不通。

三只猴子在绳索编成

的缆线上跳跃，在旧德里

Chandni Chowk 城区繁忙

的大街 Khari Baoli 上方玩

得不亦乐乎。底下的人们

正忙着将一袋袋香料搬进

搬出：人力车上早已堆满

货物、男人拉着拖车前行、

苦力则扛起脚夫的工作，将大捆麻袋放在肩

上、或把箱子巧妙层层堆在头顶，使命必达。

同时一只牛角画上印度国旗颜色的大公牛缓

步经过，另一头则见一匹戴着眼罩的马儿使

劲拖着堆满白米袋的轮车。

街道上喇叭声、搬运工穿梭车阵的吆喝

声此起彼落，他们的目的地和一旁的驼兽与

搬运脚踏车都一样是香料市场。有个好心人

用印度话帮忙报路：「过左边第二棵树就可

以到市场了。」沿着满是暗黑砖墙的小巷往

前不久，便来到了空旷的广场，四周俱是四

层楼建筑，在各店家内都可发现香料袋直从

spice world

Some sacks have split already,

revealing dried chilies, their bright

red and orange skins gleaming in the dull light

of the alley.

➥

f l a v o r d n a | T K | 103

spice world

104 | T K | F L A V O R D N A

spice world

spice world

Some sacks have split already, revealing dried chilies, their bright red and orange skins gleaming in the dull light of the alley. A porter wanders past, covered in yellow dust. As he walks by, the sack he is carrying puffs small clouds of turmeric into the heavy air. Its sour stench catches in the throats of the porters and traders, and a rhythmic cacophony of coughing breaks out. A wounded sack sits forlornly outside a shop, slowly shedding chilies onto the dusty earth.

Most of the customers in Gadodia are wholesale spice traders, buying in bulk and distributing to shops a l l over India . Some are exporters, collecting spices that will travel across the world. Others are here for a joyful reason: to buy large quantities of ingredients for wedding banquets. “It is wedding season here i n I nd ia between November and March,” says the brother of a bride-to-be. “We invite a thousand people to a celebration lasting several days, so we have to cook a lot of food for our guests. We are buying twenty kilograms of hot chili powder and five kilograms of cumin. It’s a lot cheaper here than anywhere else.”

The haze clears as a piercing winter sun burns through scant cloud. Coats are shed. The coolie wallahs’ foreheads are studded with sweat. From nearby Fatehpuri Masjid, a mullah sings the call to prayer. One of the shops in the market fills with hungry workers and shopkeepers, queuing to buy hot naan bread, fresh from the tandoor. Coolie wallahs squat against the walls, or recline on top of carts to eat, listening to the pulsing beat of motorbike horns and to the shouts of their co-workers as they file past carrying their loads.

地板堆到天花板。苦力把麻袋搬进店里，先

用小镰刀袈着袋子保持重心，随即就以小刀

把麻袋划开。有些麻袋原就已裂开，露出其

内的干燥香料，亮红及橘黄色泽在巷弄中幽

暗光线下熠熠发光。此时有个身上满是黄色

粉尘的脚夫路过，肩上麻袋不时喷出姜黄粉

末，酸呛味让一旁的搬运工及商人不只闻得

难受，还呛到喉咙，引发一阵阵咳嗽，声音

如有韵律般久久不消。商店门外还有包破烂

的麻袋，躺在路边无人答理，只见香料在尘

土飞扬中缓缓流泄而出。

来「Gadodia」的客人中，

以香料批发贸易商为众多，

大量采购后再分卖到全印

度的商店，而市场也能看

到出口商的身影，欲物色

香料卖到世界各地。有的

则是为了令人欢欣的理由

到此一访：为婚宴购入大

量的食材。现场有位准新

娘的哥哥就说：「十一月到

三月间正是印度的结婚旺

季，上千名宾客将受邀参

加连续多天的庆祝仪式，自然要准备的食物

也相当可观。我们今天要买整整二十公斤的

辣椒粉和五公斤的莳萝，到这边买最划算了。」

穿透稀薄云层，天际洒下刺眼冬阳，薄

雾逐渐消散。人们脱掉外套，苦力的额头也

开始渗满汗珠。邻近的 Fatehpuri Masjid 清

真寺中，传来教长毛拉唱催祷颂的声音。市

场一间店里立刻塞满饥肠辘辘的工人及店老

板，排队要买坦都烤炉刚出炉的烤饼。苦力

们或蹲在墙边，或倚着拖车进食，传进耳里

的不是摩托车震耳欲聋的喇叭声，就是其他

工人排队准备搬货大声嚷嚷的叫声。

有些麻袋原就已

裂开，露出其内

的干燥香料，亮

红及橘黄色泽在

巷弄中幽暗光线

下熠熠发光。

➥

f l a v o r d n a | T K | 107

SPICE WORLD

108 | T K | f l a v o r d n a

SPICE WORLD

f l a v o r d n a | T K | 109

spice world

On Khari Baoli Road a stall sells bright green leaves the shape of upturned hearts. The stallholder paints a leaf with a pink paste, scatters it with flakes of tobacco and chips of cardamom and areca nut, and then folds the leaf into a triangle. This is paan, a treat that is chewed. The leaf is from the betel vine, renowned for its psychoactive properties. The areca nut and tobacco promote alertness. “Paan is very popular with the coolie wallahs,” says the stallholder. “They chew it and spit out streams of red liquid. The ingredients have a stimulant effect on the mind. But if you have too much paan, it can make you go crazy. The coolie wallahs need it though, as they work hard for many hours. Paan helps them to keep working.”

The coolie wallahs continue their work inside the market. Out on the street, smart shop fronts display spices which have travelled to Delhi from Gujarat, South Kerala, Rajasthan and from every corner of India. Some have had an even longer journey. “Our green cardamom comes from Iran,” explains a shopkeeper.

In the back of one shop an assistant wearing a plastic glove shapes bowls of ground spices into neat dunes. The jewel colors of turmeric, chili, cardamom and mace shine amongst the multiple browns of cumin, nutmeg and cinnamon. The shop front is festooned with a garland of marigold flowers, interlaced with coiled, shiny green mango leaves. “The flowers?” says the shopkeeper. “We hang them outside to attract luck. It’s good for our business.”

KhariBaoli 大街上有个摊贩专卖亮绿

色叶子包成的小点，形状像是凸起的爱心。

店家手法俐落，拿起一片叶子涂上粉红色

的膏状物、洒上烟草片、小豆蔻和槟榔籽，

包成三角形就大功告成。这种用来嚼的点

心当地人称之为「paan」。拿来包的槟榔

叶可以提神，槟榔籽及烟草则有醒脑的效

果。店家表示：「paan 在苦力阶级里很流行，

嚼一嚼会吐出红色的槟榔

汁，里面包的都是刺激精

神效果的成份，吃太多的

话可能会疯掉，不过苦力

每天都要辛苦工作好几个

小时，嚼着 paan 可让他

们活力持久。」

市场里，满身大汗的

苦力仍埋头苦干。大街

另一头整洁的店头则摆

着来自 Gujarat、 South Kerala 及 Rajasthan 等

印度各地而来的香料。

有些长途跋涉的程度超

乎想像，某家老板介绍：「我们家绿豆蔻可

是从伊朗来的。」

旁边店里可以看到助理戴着塑胶手套，

在店后方整理地上纷乱的成堆香料，分门别

类后有咖啡色系的莳萝、肉豆蔻及肉桂小

山，正好衬出姜黄、番椒、小豆蔻及豆蔻的

珠宝色泽。店门前装饰着金盏花圈，并交叉

缀着盘卷、散发亮绿色调的芒果叶。当问及

门口花饰，店老板解释：「挂花可以带来好运，

助我们生意兴隆。」

The jewel colors of turmeric,

chili, cardamom and mace shine

amongst the multiple browns

of cumin, nutmeg and cinnamon.

110 | T K | f l a v o r d n a

spice world

kitchen conversations

Executive Chef Peter Cuong Franklin

112 | T K | f l a v o r d n a

Vietnamese chef Peter Cuong Franklin packs layered flavors into every morsel of his delicious Bia Hoi dishes.

chôm chôm nom nom越菜「新」鲜尝

sponsored featurekitchen conversations

“FISH SAUCE from South Vietnam is considered the best in the world,” says Chôm Chôm Executive Chef Peter Cuong Franklin. He’s using some to prepare a sweet-sharp dipping sauce for a chicken skewer. “I use a brand which has only three ingredients – anchovies, salt and water. The anchovies are layered with salt in large barrels and left to ferment for about seven months, and then the mixture is pressed to release a clear, pungent liquid.” The first pressing has a pure anchovy flavor, perfect for dipping sauces. Further pressings are saltier and the flavor of the fish becomes less distinct.

The dipping sauce Chef Franklin is making has five key ingredients: fish sauce, sugar, garlic, chilies and lime juice. This time he also adds shredded kaffir lime leaves. “I like to inject flavor into my food from all directions,” he says. Kaffir lime leaves are used twice in his skewered chicken. They’re placed inside the chicken so they influence it from within and also shredded and mixed in the dipping sauce to add their unique scent to the crisp outside of the meat. Additional flavor is added alongside the dish’s delivery system: the chicken skewer is pierced by a spear of lemongrass, which releases its light

Chôm Chôm ( 意为红毛丹 ) 越式餐厅行政

主厨 Peter Cuong Franklin 一边用鱼露调制

鸡肉串烧的酸甜沾酱，一边说：「越南南部

的鱼露是世界最顶级的，我用的牌子只有

三种材料－鱼、盐、水。鱼与盐一层层叠

在大桶里腌制，静置发酵七个月，压榨桶

内的混合物，就得到澄清、风味鲜甜的汁

液。」初榨鱼露的鱼味最纯正，做沾酱非

常合适，之后再榨的味道就比较咸，鱼味

也较淡。

Franklin 主厨制作的沾酱有五种主要

原料，包括鱼露、糖、蒜、辣椒及柠檬汁，

这次他还加入切碎的泰国柠檬叶。他说：「我

喜欢调制各种不同风味的料理。」这道鸡肉

串烧以两种手法运用泰国柠檬叶，一种是

放在鸡肉里，让风味由内而外散发，另一

种是切细丝伴入酱中，沾在鸡肉香脆的外

皮上，散发柠檬叶独特的清香。甚至使用

的器材也有巧思，串住鸡肉用的是香茅叶，

烧烤时会释放些许香茅油，让风味更上一

层楼。最后再洒上青辣椒，便大功告成。

这道菜散发越南料理独特风味，带着花香，

清新爽口。

Franklin 说：「越南是农业社会，种植

的作物无所不包，经常使用新鲜蔬菜与香

草就是越南菜的一大特色。」相较之下，印

度料理则使用大量干燥的香草与香料，经

过捣碎、烘烤，再用油煎，释放带烟熏味

“ I like to inject flavor into my food from all directions.我喜欢调制各种不同

风味的料理。”

f l a v o r d n a | T K | 113


oils during cooking. For a final kick, sliced green chili is scattered over the surface of the meat. The scent is distinctively Vietnamese – floral, light and fresh.

“Vietnam is an agricultural society where you can grow everything,” says Franklin. “One of the key flavor points of Vietnamese cooking is the frequent use of fresh vegetables and herbs.” He contrasts it with the cuisine of India, which uses a lot of dry herbs and spices, pounded, toasted, and

then cooked in oil to release their smoky rich flavors. When questioned about the similarity between Thai and Vietnamese cooking styles, Franklin is quick to counter: “Thai cooking is more in your face with spices. We use similar ingredients but Thais punch people in the face with flavor. We try to create more of a balance. We do use chilies but not so they kill the other flavors. We don’t use as many ingredients, we use fewer spices, and we cook in water so our cuisine is lighter. You

can clearly taste the individual components in Vietnamese cooking.”

Chôm Chôm is an intimate restaurant at the foot of trendy Peel Street. It has a small outside space where diners can relax and people-watch. The food is unfussy and based on Bia Hoi, the concept of snacks that accompany beer. One such snack Franklin has prepared is a plate of deep fried chicken wings called VFC – a Vietnamese take on Kentucky Fried Chicken. He takes care to

114 | T K | f l a v o r d n a


的浓郁香气。泰国料理与越南料理的烹调

方式是否类似？ Franklin 一口否定。「泰

国菜的香料味道比较直接，我们用的食材

类似，但泰国菜有股扑鼻而来的浓重香味。

越南菜讲求均衡和谐，虽然用辣椒，但不

会掩盖其他味道。食材不是愈多愈好，我

们用的香料比较少，而且用水煮，所以口

感比较清爽。越南菜里每一种材料的味道

你都吃得到。」

Chôm Chôm 气氛温馨，位于时髦的卑

利街转角，一隅户外空间让客人放松，坐

看行人熙来攘往。 Chôm Chôm 的餐点不

会过分精致，以搭配新鲜啤酒的小吃 ( 越

南文称为 Bia Hoi) 为主轴，例如其中一道

是越式炸鸡翅，这是越南版的肯德基炸鸡，

经 Franklin 用各种手法尝起来更丰富有味。

首先选用鸡翅，这是一只鸡味道最鲜美的

部位，然后再下功夫让鸡肉美味升级。「我

们一层层添加风味，首先用鱼露、芫荽籽、

大蒜腌制，不只是浸泡，更要连骨头都入味。

接下来裹粉，粉也调了味。我裹的是米粉，

比较清爽也更香脆，另外在粉中加入红椒

Chicken and Lemongrass Skewer 香茅鸡肉串烧

Grilled Eggplant with Crab Meat 蟹肉烤茄子魚

Cha Cha Hanoi 炸龙利鱼柳

f l a v o r d n a | T K | 115

fill the chicken with flavor whichever way he can. He uses wings, which are the most flavorful part of the bird and then he sets to work, making them even tastier. “We layer flavor. First we brine in fish sauce coriander seeds and garlic. This goes beyond marinating – it puts the flavor right into the bones. Then, when we bread the chicken, I get some flavor in there too. I use rice flour as it is lighter and makes for a crispier crumb but I season the flour with paprika and spices. After frying the wings we shake them in Vietnamese vinaigrette made with fresh lime and garlic. The wings are then served with a wedge of lime so you can squeeze that to add even more freshness.”

Franklin notes the two main external influences on Vietnamese cuisine: China, which shares a border with the country to the north; and France, which ruled the colony for six decades. “Those are the two of the greatest cuisines in the world. But we just took the best things from them. We still retain very Vietnamese characteristics in our cooking.”

To demonstrate, he brings out a beautiful sole dish the color of sunshine, lying on a bed of cool white rice noodles and bearing strands of feathery green dill. The faint aniseed scent of the dill and the delicate floral notes of turmeric rise enticingly from

the plate. “Turmeric root has a fresh taste, a subtle floral taste and a color more in the direction of saffron. We pound the root and use it to infuse oil. To make the fish dish we first fry it in brown butter, a technique learned from the French, but we mix the brown butter with turmeric oil. There is dill in this dish which is a very French ingredient. No one else in the Southeast Asia region cooks with dill. Then we add lime juice and onion. The use of citrus in this dish is classic Vietnamese, giving that fresh flavor. It is a perfect harmony of the two cultures.”

The idea that there is an “authentic” way to cook Vietnamese dishes irritates Frank-lin, as he feels it misses the point of regional variations and the use of seasonal ingredi-ents. But he also hates the word “fusion” and doesn’t want to be labeled as “modern” either as it carries with it the expectation of something molecular – smoke and bangs and foams. If you have to pigeonhole him, then you may describe his cooking style as “new Vietnamese cuisine.” “New shows we are looking at the cuisine and approaching it a slightly different way,” he says. “But you need to understand the core components of the dishes. You need to understand how people eat and why they eat that way. There are some things you can’t mess with. Some things are OK to change – some things aren’t.”


粉及香料。鸡翅炸完，再洒上越式香醋，

醋里加了新鲜莱姆和大蒜。最后附上莱姆

片，吃的时候挤点汁，口味更清爽不腻。」

Franklin 指出越菜受到两大外来文化影

响，一个是和越南北部接壤的中国，一个

是殖民越南六十年的法国。「这两国创造

了世界两大料理，但我们只撷取两种料理

的精华，我们的烹调方式仍然极富越南特

色。」

为了说明，他端出一道龙利鱼柳，鱼

身的颜色如阳光般迷人，底下铺了冰凉的

米粉，饰以几缕青翠欲滴的莳萝。盘中散

发出莳萝淡淡的八角味，以及姜黄优雅的

花香味，十分诱人。「姜黄根味道清新，

并带有微妙的花香，色彩类似藏红花。我

们磨碎姜黄根，浸入油里。这道鱼首先在

焦化牛油里煎过，焦化牛油是法式料理的

材料，但我们还加了姜黄油。搭配的莳萝

也十分富有法国风味，其他东南亚国家的

料理都看不到。然后加上莱姆汁和洋葱，

在菜肴中加入柑橘类也是经典的越菜特色，

可以让风味更清新。这道菜完美的融合了

两种文化。」有人提出越菜的「正宗」烹调

方式，Franklin 相当不以为然，他觉得这忽

略了地方特色与使用当令食材的要点。另

一方面，他也不喜欢「融合」这个词，也

不希望让人贴上「现代」的标签，因为这

仿佛预设了料理中会出现烟雾、爆炸、泡

沫等分子料理的元素。如果你一定要将他

的烹饪手法分类，或许可以称之为「新越

南料理。」

Franklin 说：「新代表我们用不同的方

式，来思考、处理越南菜。但你必须了解

越菜的核心，除了知道怎么吃，也要知道

背后的道理。世事存在皆有规律，有的事

可以改变，有些则要维持原则。」

“ Chinese and French are two of the greatest cuisines in the world. But we just took the best things from them. We still retain very Vietnamese characteristics in our cooking.中菜和法国菜是世界两大料理，但我们只撷取两种料理的精华，我们的烹调方式仍然极富越南特色。”

116 | T K | f l a v o r d n a


Vietnamese Fried Chicken越式炸鸡

f l a v o r d n a | T K | 117

tasting notes

118 | T K | F L A V O R D N A


He Jiang Executive Chef Zhao Li knows how to bring the heat with

Sichuan’s spices, but says there is a lot more to the cuisine

than the famous fire.

川菜香辣达人

La Zi Chicken 歌樂山辣子雞

�ichuan Spice

Maestro

tasting notes

Executive Chef Zhao Li行政主厨赵力

“SICHUAN CUISINE is the only one in the world that uses red peppercorns,” says He Jiang Executive Chef Zhao Li. A native of the province, he has been cooking profes-sionally in the distinctive Sichuan style for nearly two decades and is a master of the spices and other ingredients that make up the cuisine’s flavor DNA.

Indigenous to China’s landlocked western region and also known as Sichuan pepper, flower pepper or fagara, the red peppercorn is not closely related to black and white peppercorns, nor is it a pepper. It adds a unique layer of experience to a number of Sichuan dishes by causing a tongue-tingling sensation – má in Mandarin – and an accompanying slight numbing of the lips. In its younger, unripe green form, it is also used to add sourness to certain selections.

As proud as he is of Sichuan’s star spice, it’s also clear that Chef Li would like to change the popular impression that all Sichuan dishes abound in fiery chili peppers

川菜餐厅「合江小镇」行政主厨赵力运用

各式香料裕如，带出的四川辣劲让人大呼

过瘾。不过师傅强调，川菜的诀窍可不只

是火候。

知名川菜餐厅「合江小镇」行政主厨

赵力自豪说道：「四川料理是全世界唯一用

到花椒的菜系。」身为道地的四川人，赵师

傅已钻研川菜近二十个年头，对于各式香

料及川菜专属特殊食材的掌握已达炉火纯

青的境界。

tasting notes

Chef Li’s experience is invaluable when it comes to procuring top quality ingredients like the pickled vegetables he sources from Sichuan’s fertile Mount Emei region. 赵师傅多年经验练就了好眼力，像是四川肥

沃峨嵋山区所产的泡菜等顶级食材品质的优

劣与否，在他的眼皮子底下均无所遁形。

and lip-numbing red peppercorn. He says the cuisine features about a thousand combinations of ingredients. “Each dish we serve has its own unique flavor.”

In an effort to share a wide repertoire of Sichuan dishes with guests, He Jiang has updated its menu three times since opening in 2011. According to Chef Li, about sixty percent of the cuisine is not spicy at all. He points to recurring items

Braised Sliced Fish with Homemade Sichuan Sauce 老壇子魚片

f l a v o r d n a | T K | 121

on the menu like the mildly seasoned roast duck and the camphor-smoked pigeon. And his Là Z J (Chicken with Chilies), though smothered in heaps of dry red chilies and Sichuan peppercorns that look ready to burst into flame, does not overwhelm. Chef Li keeps small chunks of leg and shoulder meat tender and moist with a marinade that includes a splash of baijiu liquor. The chicken is deep-fried and then mixed with chilies, Sichuan peppercorns, cashew nuts, ground chili and other seasonings. His version is a refined, slightly milder, less oily version of the classic dish served everywhere in Sichuan.

Most of He Jiang’s dishes are based on traditional Sichuan recipes, with Chef Li making expert alterations here and there. Deep-fried Sichuan style spare ribs are made traditionally, but are accompanied by Western touches like small potato croquettes and diced bell pepper and onion. A homemade Sichuan sauce served with braised fish is a complex crimson broth

laced with large red and small green chilies, and with sliced pickled cabbage that adds salt, vinegar and crunch to contrast with the tender fish. In Sichuan, local freshwater catfish is often used. Chef Li makes the dish with Dover sole.

Chef Li’s experience is invaluable when it comes to procuring top quality ingredients like the pickled vegetables he sources from Sichuan’s fertile Mount Emei region. The delicacies are steeped in spiced vinaigrette in large traditional earthenware jars until mealtime when they are portioned into glass dishes. The mixture of sliced carrots, broccoli stems and white cabbage provides a splash of color on the table.

Spice expertise also helps when it comes to selecting Sichuan peppercorns. Chef Li knows just which plump young green ones are right for the job, and when working with ripe red fagara, he avoids the brightest specimens since they can be bitter. He cooks with three varieties of chilies, another basic flavor that characterizes Sichuan cuisine.

First is the classic Sichuanese short broad z dàn ji o variety, served fresh, dry or pickled and green. Second, the thinner and slightly longer xi o m là. And finally, the larger, less fiery èr j ng tiáo pepper.

Other essentials for Li include his house-made crimson chili paste and the deep vermillion broad bean paste which he says captures the soul of Sichuan cuisine. It’s made with beans, chili peppers, salt and a variety of other secret seasonings.

He always keeps the seasons in mind as he plans menus, featuring warming dishes in the winter and emphasizing sour ingredients in his summer dishes to help bolster appetites depleted by the heat.

Among Chef Li’s favorite dishes, both served at He Jiang, are the Sichuan classic mápó tòfu, a dish of spicy bean curd mixed with minced pork; and sliced pork fried with chili peppers. His mother fried the pork without the bean paste, but he includes it. A chef willing and able to go beyond mom’s cooking – that’s a confident chef.

tasting notes

Clockwise from top: red chilli paste; white peppercorn; broad bean paste; unripe flower peppercorn; center – dried flower peppercorn

顺时钟从上而下：辣椒酱、白胡椒、豆瓣酱、半熟花椒；中间：干花椒

122 | T K | f l a v o r d n a

花椒，或称川椒，生长于中国大西部

内陆地区，与黑胡椒或白胡椒其实并无特

殊关联，甚至不属胡椒种类。许多四川菜

加入花椒调味，会带来舌头酥麻的特殊口

感 ( 就是中文讲的「麻」)，甚至连嘴唇也

会产生轻微麻痹感。在花椒尚未成熟，还

呈绿色时也常入菜，为特定几道料理增添

酸度。

赵师傅虽以四川的招牌花椒为荣，但

也想注入创新元素，打破川菜就等于喷火

辣味及花椒酥麻口感的既定印象。他说川

菜有上千种食材组合，相当丰富，「上桌的

每道菜都有自己独一无二的风味。」

为了让更多人品尝到四川料理博大精

深的美味，合江小镇自 2011 年开张至今

已经更新过三次菜单。主厨透露，其中有

六成都不是麻辣料理。菜单上重复出现的

人气菜色，像是调味恰好的烤鸭及樟木熏

烤乳鸽口味都相当温和。赵师傅的招牌辣

子鸡以大把大把的干红椒及四川花椒焖煮，

看似热辣十足，吃来却味道适中，不会让

人辣到嘴巴发痛。主厨特地精选小块腿肉

及肩肉浸至加入少许白酒的卤汁中入味，

让质地变得温湿软嫩，鸡肉经油炸后加入

干椒、四川花椒、腰果、辣椒粉及其他调

味料拌匀即可。赵师傅的改良版本比起一

般四川馆子的辣子鸡要清爽，吃来味道较

为温和，也更加精致。

合江小镇的菜色大部分以传统川菜作

法为本，再由主厨以精准眼光微调后而成。

四川酥炸肋排仿古法制作，但佐以小颗马

铃薯球、柿子椒及洋葱丁，增添一丝西式

风情。搭配炖鱼的自家制四川酱汁一般以

大条红辣椒及小条青辣椒为主原料，再放

入四川泡菜中的高丽菜切片添加咸醋风味

及口感，用味道繁复的大红汤汁衬托细嫩

的鱼肉。相较川蜀地方常见当地捕捉的新

鲜淡水鲶鱼，赵师傅选用的是比目鱼。

赵师傅多年经验练就了好眼力，像是

四川肥沃峨嵋山区所产的泡菜等顶级食材

品质的优劣与否，在他的眼皮子底下均无

所遁形。四川泡菜平常浸于满是辣味油醋

的大型老陶瓮中，吃饭时才视所需切片装

盘。泡菜中的红萝卜片、花椰菜根跟高丽

菜的色彩跃然桌上，增色不少。

主厨丰富的香料知识让他在挑选花椒

入菜时无往不利，像是肥厚的青绿半熟花

椒该怎么选，或如何避开光泽度最高的红

色花椒才不会太苦等等。他常用的三种辣

椒也是川菜基本调味的重要食材，包括地

道的四川子弹椒，体型短胖，可直接干吃

或半熟腌渍使用；第二种是偏薄、长形的

小米辣；最后是体型较大、辣度较低的二

金条。其他主厨的得力帮手还包括自家制

的大红辣椒酱及朱红色的辣豆瓣酱，后者

以蚕豆、辣椒、盐及多种调味秘方制成，

是川菜的灵魂所在。

赵师傅构思菜单时也非常重视季节更

迭带来的影响，冬天主打暖胃美食，而夏

季则加强料理中的酸味，唤醒饕客褥热天

气下尽失的胃口。

主厨自己最爱的两道菜在合江小镇都

吃得到，有辣味豆腐及绞肉，加入猪肉

片及辣椒拌炒而成的经典四川麻婆豆腐。

另一道炸猪肉赵师傅选用了有别于自己

母亲的做法，加进豆瓣酱增添风味。身为

一个厨师，敢于翻新老妈子的烹饪做法，

足以代表对自己的厨艺有十成的把握，信

心满满。

tasting notes

Deep-fried Spare Ribs, Sichuan Style 川香麻辣烧骨

sponsored feature

Phad Kraprao Kae: Grilled Lamb, Garlic, Chili, Hot Basil

泰式烤羊扒

sponsored feature

Spice up your Christmas at Banyan Tree Macau’s Saffron

a festive feast

sponsored feature

CHRISTMAS AT SAFFRON is set to be a spicy affair. “Thai food is famous around the world for its use of fresh and dried spices and herbs. We’re using lots of turmeric, chili, hot basil and curry paste,” says Chef de Cui-sine Gina Pungiaroenkijkul.

The Christmas menus, available on the 24th and 25th of December, feature tradi-tional Thai dishes with festive twists and Chef Gina’s own unique touch. She says she likes to get creative and to see what she can do with Thai traditions. “Thai food begins with basic pastes and basic sauces, and I use them as a base. Then I like to experi-ment and try different things.”

The four-course lunch set menu fea-tures Thai favorites Tom Yum Goong soup and whole steamed grouper with a chili and lime dressing. “This is a very traditional dish to eat for Thai celebrations,” says Chef Gina.

The dinner menu is a festive buffet with an extensive selection of seafood on ice, appetizers, soups and salads, and a choice of mains cooked to order. Top picks include lobster with saffron curry, grilled lamb mar-inated in garlic chili and hot basil, fried snapper with mango sauce, and turkey with green curry.

“Christmas is a celebration,” says Chef Gina. “It’s important to share special dishes.”

「尚坊 (Saffron)」的圣诞大餐香辣十足，让

人大呼过瘾。来自泰国的主厨 Gina Pung-iaroenkijkul 自信满满表示：「泰式料理以运

用各式新鲜干燥的香料及草本植物闻名于

世。这次我们大量使用了姜黄、番椒、打

抛酱和咖喱酱。」

圣诞套餐将于 12 月 24 日及 25 日限时

推出，除了传统泰式美味，另有佳节限定

佳肴及主厨 Gina 匠心独具的创意料理。她

脑袋充满新的点子，希望能与传统泰国菜

激荡出美味的火花：「酱膏及酱汁是泰国菜

的基础，我也以此为出发点，大胆试验不

同的作法。」

午间套餐四道料理中，有最受欢迎的

人气料理泰式酸辣汤及缀以番椒和莱姆酱

汁的清蒸石斑。 Gina 说：「泰国人在欢庆

佳节时都会选择这道传统料理。」

晚间套餐则是圣诞节限定的自助美

食吧，各式铺在冰块上的海鲜、开胃菜、

汤品及沙拉应有尽有，还有供单点的

多种主餐，包括招牌红咖喱龙虾、蒜

香辣椒烹调的泰式烤羊扒、泰式烤鱼

佐芒果酱汁及绿咖喱火鸡等令人食欲

大开的美食。

Gina 开心的说：「圣诞节是值得欢庆

的时刻，当然要一起分享特别的美味。」

佳节飨宴

[CAPTION] 1. Pla Tord Yum Mamuang 泰式烤鱼

Fried Fish, Mango, Shallot, Spring On-ion

2. Gaeng Saffron Goong Mungkorn 招牌红咖喱龙虾

Lobster, Red Curry, Kaffir Lime3. Phad Kraprao Kae 泰式烤羊扒

Grilled Lamb, Garlic, Chili, Hot Basil

Pla Tord Yum Mamuang: Fried Fish, Mango, Shallot, Spring Onion泰式烤鱼

f l a v o r d n a | T K | 125

“Christmas is a celebration.

It’s important to share special dishes.圣诞节是值得欢庆的时刻，

当然要一起分享特别的美味。

”

sponsored feature

Chef de Cuisine Gina Pungiaroenkijkul

126 | T K | f l a v o r d n a

sponsored feature

Gaeng Saffron Goong Mungkorn: Lobster, Red Curry, Kaffir Lime

招牌红咖喱龙虾

At the Grand Lisboa Hotel Macau, The Kitchen is the place to go for a prime time steak fix.

primal pleasure顶级牛排快意滋味

feature

FOR THE DEDICATED CARNIVORE, there’s nothing quite like the primal pleasure pro-voked by the sight of a big fat juicy steak. At The Kitchen, on the third floor of the Grand Lisboa Hotel Macau, diners enjoy their meat deluxe style: only the best of the best steaks are on offer, from USDA prime to Australian wagyu to the highest grade cuts of Japanese Kagoshima beef.

Great cuts of meat are just the beginning. At The Kitchen, the man behind the meat is Chef Wong Chi Leong. After twenty-one years in the business, he knows everything there is to know about cooking the perfect steak. “Temperature control is the most important thing to worry about when you cook a steak,” he says. “The oven should be red hot and the steak should be cold when it hits the grill.”

Chef Wong mans two ovens in the restaurant’s open kitchen – a raging fire keeps one at the highest temperature while a smaller fire burns in the other. The steaks are quickly seared in the hot oven to secure the

对无肉不欢的人来说，看到肥美多汁的大

块牛扒，足以挑起他们难掩的兴奋热情。

位于澳门新葡京酒店三楼的「大厨」餐厅，

精选出 USDA 特级澳洲和牛与日本鹿儿岛

和牛等顶级肉品，吸引饕客来场奢华的牛

扒飨宴。

选用上好牛肉只是个开始，已从事餐饮

业 21 年的「大厨」主厨黄志亮更清楚如何

才能烤制出完美牛扒。他说：「烤牛扒最重

要是控制温度，烤箱要热得发烫，而牛扒

放上烤架时应该是冷的。」在「大厨」的开放式厨房里，黄主厨一

人照顾两台烤炉，其中一台火力猛烈，温

度极高，而另一台则维持小火。先用大火

烤炉高温封锁牛扒肉汁，接着再以小火烤

炉继续烤到客人指定的熟度。

「大厨」所选肉品都由酒店西餐行政总

厨林国新从市场或向供应商亲自挑选。他

说：「健康饲养的牛只，油花呈现漂亮的大

理石分布，口感非常软嫩。要挑最好的牛肉，

我从不假手他人。」

「大厨」的澳洲 Tomahawk 牛扒分量惊

人，肉香十足，滋味丰腴浓郁，对喜欢吃

肉的食客来说是一道梦幻餐点，或许两人

Grade 5 Tomahawk Steak from Australia

澳洲五级Tomahawk 牛扒

128 | T K | f l a v o r d n a

feature sponsored feature

Grade 5 Tomahawk Steak from Australia

澳洲五级Tomahawk 牛扒

feature

Deluxe Assorted Sashimi 特級刺身拼盤

feature

juices, and then finished off and cooked to customers’ preferences over the smaller fire.

All the meat served at The Kitchen has been personally selected by Grand Lisboa Hotel Macau’s Executive Chef of Western Cuisine, Chef Andy Lam. “Healthily-fed cattle produce lovely marbling of the fat which makes the beef much more tender,” he says. “I trust no one but myself to pick out the best cuts.”

The Kitchen’s Australian Tomahawk is a dramatically large, bone-in steak with a big, rich flavor – a hungry meat eater’s dream, or maybe a dream for two. Cut from between the short rib and the rib eye, the 38-oz steak is not found in many restaurants. “Not many suppliers have the ability or the equipment to make this cut of meat so it’s pretty unique,” says Chef Andy. “It can be difficult to cook because of its size and the bone,” adds Chef Wong.

For those taking a steak break, The

Kitchen’s deluxe sashimi platter is made from the freshest seasonal seafood, including blue fin tuna, lobster, yellowtail, striped jack, botan shrimp and sea urchin. A new range of pizzas is also on offer. One decadent option is topped with smoked salmon, cream cheese and caviar. For Chef Wong, though, it’s all about the steaks. To get the most out of them, Wong recommends just a smattering of Japanese sea salt and ground white pepper to draw out the natural flavors of the steaks. “We want to respect the original flavors and that’s what we want our customers to taste,” he says. “Too much seasoning will destroy the flavor of the beef.”

Chef Wong recommends letting a steak rest for about three minutes before serving, so the juices that have been drawn to the surface can relax back into the meat. Then all that’s left to do is tuck in. “Seeing customers enjoying my food makes me so happy.”

Pizza with Caviar, Smoked Salmon and Cream Cheese

鱼子酱薄饼配烟三文鱼及忌廉芝士

合吃也绰绰有余。牛肉取自牛小排及肋眼

之间的部位，重达 38 盎司，在一般餐厅并

不多见。林国新解释：「这道牛扒非常特别，

因为有能力或设备供应的餐厅不多，而且

分量多又带骨，烤起来不容易。而足量带

骨的牛扒也增添了菜式的烹煮难度。」

除了牛扒，「大厨」也供应各式豪华刺

身，使用最新鲜的食材，包括蓝鳍金枪鱼、

龙虾、油甘鱼、缟、牡丹虾、北紫海胆

等节令海鲜。此外更新推出鱼子酱薄饼，

饼皮上撒满烟三文鱼，忌廉芝士和鱼子酱，

滋味非常。

但对黄主厨来说，牛扒还是重头戏。要

享受牛扒最鲜美的滋味，他建议只要撒上

日本海盐并磨些白胡椒，就能引出牛肉的

天然风味。他说：「我们希望保留牛肉原味，

也希望客人能尝到原汁原味。调味过度会

破坏牛肉的风味。」

主厨建议牛扒烤好后放三分钟再上菜，

让提升到表面的肉汁可以再吸收回到肉中，

接下来就可以大快朵颐了。「看到客人吃

得开心，我真的很高兴。」

f l a v o r d n a | T K | 131

A self-described cider nerd, Megan Broberg creates her Appleman cider using winemaking techniques. She was recently in Hong Kong to launch new rosewater and sencha tea-flavored ciders.

how do you like them apples

想来杯苹果酒吗?!

feature

feature sponsored feature

f l a v o r d n a | T K | 133

Megan Broberg 的个性就像她酿造的苹果酒

一样生气勃勃。她过去曾担任酿酒师，将

专业知识与对气泡酒的热爱带到果园，以

满满的热情，滔滔不绝地畅谈如何从葡萄

转攻苹果，以及创造这瓶让人开怀畅饮的

苹果酒背后运用了什么技术。

她说：「首先水果须保持纯净无瑕，这

很有难度，因为苹果是种脆弱的水果。」

为了让水果保持最佳状态，必须除去

氧气：「我用一种很棒的榨汁机抽取果汁，

在里面打入二氧化碳和氮气，完全消除其

中的氧气。机器榨出白色的果汁，然后直

接注入桶中。」

苹果不好照顾，除了接触一点氧气，果

汁便会变成不漂亮的棕色之外，更因为含有

天然酵母和糖份，所以必须处于低温环境，

以免果汁自行发酵。桶中苹果汁的温度必须

保持在摄氏五度，一路运往酿造场，输入另

一个桶中，冷藏、静置沉淀一两天。

Broberg 想在苹果酒中保留苹果的精

华，希望能让人喝完仍感受到芳香余韵。「我发现过去酿造苹果酒没有仔细斟酌风

味，无论是质地、口感、酸度表现，是否

有尾韵等等，都不够留意。很多苹果酒没

有尾韵，刚喝一口可以尝到苹果味，然后

味道就消失了。」

Broberg 拥有科学研究背景，她也说自

己是个「研究狂，一天到晚泡在实验室」，

这些条件帮助她成功追求纯粹的苹果风味。「苹果酒发酵要用比较多水果，所以最适合

使用夏多内葡萄用的酵母。苹果酸度高，

又必须在低温下发酵，所以气泡类葡萄酒

酵母最适合。」这种苹果酒和啤酒相当不同，

不像啤酒酿造商积极突显啤酒中的酵母风

味。 Broberg 说：「我必须找到味道纯中性

的酵母，我不想让清新、芬芳的苹果中渗

入一点杂味。」

苹果纯粹清新的味道还会受到发酵的

副产品影响。 Broberg 解释：「硫化氢（H2S）

对于我特殊的苹果酒酿造方法会造成一大

问题，闻起来就像臭鸡蛋，真的很臭！」

幸好她有酿酒师的秘密法宝，可以去除臭

味，只留下苹果的清香，或留下玫瑰的香

气－玫瑰新口味刚在香港推出，酒色呈现

美丽的粉红，就像曙光的颜色，加入玫瑰水，

更添清新气息。喝起来则略带甜度，是完

美的开胃酒，也适合搭配辛香食物，酒中

轻微的甜味能平衡辛辣料理中红辣椒的热

劲。

Broberg 的顶级苹果酒中还加入一种秘

方，经我们略为施压，她也大方透露：「其

中有百分之一的梨子汁，能增添一点甜味

和层次。」

提到使用的苹果，她则避重就轻。酿

造用的是个头小、皮粗带酸味的苹果，传

统上用于较朴实的酒。「我用的所有水果

都是餐桌上的食用水果，生长在新南斯威

MEGAN BROBERG is as effervescent as the cider she makes. A former winemaker who has brought her knowledge and love of spar-kling wine production to the orchard, she bubbles with enthusiasm as she talks about her move from grapes to apples and the sci-ence involved in creating a product that is all about pleasure.

“The first thing you want is the fruit in its pure and intact state,” she explains. “That’s difficult with apples as they are delicate.”

To ensure the fruit stays in peak condition, Broberg needs to keep oxygen out of the equation: “To extract the juice I use a beautiful press with carbon dioxide and nitrogen pumped over it so it is a completely oxygen-free environment. The white juice is extracted and then pumped directly into a tanker.”

Apples are temperamental things. Not only does a sniff of oxygen turn their juice an unappealing brown, but the levels of natural yeasts and sugars they contain mean that their environment needs to be kept cool, lest they start fermenting by themselves. The juice in the tanker is kept at around five degrees as it is driven to the winery, where it

is pumped into another tank, cooled and left to settle for a couple of days.

Broberg wanted to capture the pure essence of the fruit in her cider, and to make a drink that was not just a one-sip wonder. “I found there was not enough consideration of the palate in cider making – how it feels, the texture in the mouth, the sensation of the acid and whether or not it has a finish. A lot of other ciders have no finish, so you have a sip and it is apple-y and then it just drops away.”

Her scientific background and her own admission that she is “a nerd, who spends a lot of time in the lab” helped her to achieve her pure apple ideal. “A colder ferment will allow more fruit through, so the perfect yeast to use is one similar to that used with Chardonnay grapes. The high acidity levels of the fruit coupled with the need for a colder ferment means a sparkling wine yeast is ideal.” This style of cider is a long way from beer, where the yeast is encouraged by brewers to participate actively in the palate of flavors. “I needed to find yeast with a completely neutral taste,” says Broberg. “I didn’t want

anything getting in the way of the fresh, delicious apples.”

A byproduct of the fermentation process does get in the way of a pure, clean flavor. “Hydrogen sulphide – H2S – is a hazard of this particular cider-making style,” explains Broberg. “And it smells of rotten eggs – it really reeks!” Luckily she has some secret winemaker’s tricks up her sleeve that remove the stink and leave the cider smelling just of apples. Or of apples and roses. One of two new flavors just released in Hong Kong is made with a dash of rosewater for extra freshness. This cider is a beautiful pink liquid, the color of dawn. It’s off dry quality makes it the perfect aperitif, or a great foil for spice, as the slight sugariness helps to cool the latent heat of the chili peppers found in many spicy dishes.

Broberg’s flagship cider pairs a secret ingredient with the apples. With a little arm twisting, she relents and shares: “It’s one percent pear. I put it in just to give it a tiny bit more sweetness and depth.”

She shies away from using cider apples – the small, tough-skinned, sour fruits traditionally favored in more rustic blends.

feature

134 | T K | f l a v o r d n a

feature

尔州。这类苹果比较适合我想酿的苹果酒。」

从这些优质水果萃取果汁的技术就毫不朴

实了－ Broberg 采用逆渗透机，和这台机

器相较之下，大型强子对撞机就像穴居人

的打火石。 Broberg 笑着说：「这台机器非

常昂贵，我只能租用。我想没有一家酿酒

厂买得起。」

逆渗透机在酿酒中通常用来降低酒精

浓度，Broberg 则用来抽取苹果汁与梨子汁

中的水分，留下浓郁、糖浆般的浓缩果汁，

以达到她所追求的质地。「这种比较浓郁

的新鲜果汁会包覆口腔，创造口感，也能

尝到更香浓的梨子风味。其中含有很多芳

香烃。」

Broberg 酿造 Appleman 苹果酒已经一

年多，创造的苹果酒风味精粹纯净，还有

宜人的气泡。「我根据味道一再重新调制，

最后得到的配方都是相同的，所以我想我

已经找到最理想的酿制方法了。」

“All the fruit I use is table fruit, grown in New South Wales,” she explains. “It is better for the cider I want to make.” She uses a very un-rustic technique to extract the juices from these premium fruits: a ‘reverse osmosis’ machine, so hi-tech it makes the Large Hadron Collider sound like a caveman’s flint knife. “It is a prohibitively expensive machine,” she laughs, “so I just hire it. I don’t think any winery could actually afford to use one.”

Regularly used in winemaking to lower alcohol levels, Broberg uses reverse osmosis to extract water from the apple and pear juices, leaving a rich, syrupy fruit reduction which adds to the palate feel she is seeking in her blend. “This more intense fresh juice gives a coating to the mouth which creates texture. And I think you can taste the pear more intensely too. There are a lot of aromatics in there.”

Broberg has been making Appleman cider now for over a year, and has come up with a cider that has a delicate, pure flavor with a delicious fizz. “I keep blending and blending on taste alone, and I keep coming back to the same formula. So I think I’ve got it right now.”

“ I found there was not enough consideration of the palate in cider making – how it feels, the texture in the mouth, the sensation of the acid and whether or not it has a finish.”

f l a v o r d n a | T K | 135

Styled after the old Bela Vista Hotel, Grand Lapa Macau’s highly refined Café Bela Vista combines elegant architecture and palate-invigorating cuisine.

old world charm旧世风华

sponsored feature

WICKER CHAIRS sit invitingly along the old colonial verandah under swaying palm trees and whirring white fans. Sunlight pours in through louvered shutters and dapples across the mosaic floor. To visit Grand Lapa Macau’s Café Bela Vista is to step out of time and pass into a realm of old world elegance.

An open kitchen and live cooking stations serve up a variety of Asian dishes, international favorites, and Macanese and Portuguese specialties. Executive Sous Chef Tan Lee Kiong enlivens his stylish dishes with spices from his native Malaysia.

“Malaysian cuisine is a mix of Indian, Malay and Chinese. That really shows in my food,” he says. “I love to work with Sarawak black pepper. It has such a bold flavor – it can really hold its own in a curry.”

His Tandoori Crusted Salmon relies heavily on Indian spices, mint chutney and

paneer cheese. He strips a Malaysian Curry Laksa down to its core qualities in order to focus on pure, true flavors. A spicy oxtail Soup Ekon is served with ravioli wrapped in wonton skin.

The all-day dining at the Café Bela Vista includes a breakfast buffet, a semi-lunch buffet, afternoon tea sets, and an a la carte menu in the evening. The weekend seafood dinner buffets draw crowds of dedicated diners.

“My mother’s Malaysian curry was the dish that inspired me to become a chef,” says Chef Tan. “She would ask me to pick the spices up from the market, and get me to grind the garlic and ginger. It was back then that I realized I had a passion for cooking.”

Elegant, old world surroundings and delicious, palate-invigorating dishes make for a soul-satisfying combination.

sl

旧殖民风格露台上摆着柳条椅，可邀亲朋

来歇歇腿；一旁棕榈树叶影摇曳，白色的

吊扇徐徐转动。阳光透过百叶窗格倾泻，

在马赛克地板上洒上斑斓光影。造访澳门

金丽华酒店的荟景阁咖啡厅，仿佛穿过时

光隧道，走入旧世界的优雅国度。

咖啡厅内有开放式厨房和现场烹饪台，

提供各式亚洲佳肴、国际美食，以及澳门

和葡萄牙特色料理。助理行政总厨陈利强

先生采用家乡马来西亚当地香料，赋予充

满时尚味的料理鲜活生命力。

陈利强说：「马来西亚结合了印度、马

来西亚和中国文化，这点充分呈现在我的

料理中。我喜欢运用沙劳越黑胡椒，它的

风味突出，即使在咖喱中也香气鲜明。」马来西亚咖喱叻沙展现菜色精髓，讲求纯

粹、真实的风味。

荟景阁咖啡厅全天供应餐点，包括自助

早餐、半自助午餐、下午茶套餐，晚上则

供应单点菜色。周末供应海鲜自助晚餐，

许多客人慕名而来。

陈利强说道：「我受到母亲的马来西亚

咖喱启发，才选择厨师一职。母亲会要我

去市场挑选香料，要我磨大蒜和生姜。自

那时起我就知道我是非常热爱烹饪。」

抚慰心灵的精致佳肴，别出心裁的鲜活

风味，荟景阁咖啡厅呈献让人食指大动的

完美结合。

136 | T K | f l a v o r d n a

sponsored feature

Chef Tan’s Tandoori Crusted Salmon relies heavily on Indian spices, mint chutney and paneer cheese. 陈利强的坦都里窑烤脆皮三文鱼大量使用印度香料、

薄荷甜酸酱与菠菜奶酪。

Spicy Soup Ekor with Oxtail Wonton Ravioli. 香辣牛尾汤配意大利馄饨。

Chef Tan strips a Malaysian Curry Laksa down to its core qualities in order to focus on pure, true flavors. 马来西亚咖喱叻沙展现菜色精髓，讲求纯粹、真实的风味。

Austria has been producing more and more wonderful reds, but the country’s star grape is still the native, distinctively spicy Grüner Veltliner.

the many guises of austria’s grüner veltliner

绿维特利纳的多重风貌

sponsored feature

WHEN REFERRING to their signature white grape, Grüner Veltliner, Austrians use a spe-cial word: Pfefferl. It refers to the distinctive notes of white pepper which appear in the nose and finish of Grüner Veltliner wines. But these wines have complex flavor pro-files that feature not just the characteristic spice but also notes of citrus and stone fruit, intense minerality and, in recent vintages, hints of tropical fruit. Alcohol levels range from 11% to 14.5%. Acidity is elevated, guar-anteeing freshness and zest.

With around a third of Austria’s vineyards planted with Grüner Veltliner, it is still the dominant grape varietal in the country despite losing more than a fifth of its acreage in the past decade. Reduced quantity has been accompanied by enhanced quality and even as Grüner acreages have been shrinking, the wine has been enjoying a surge of global popularity. Connoisseurs around the world refer to it as Gruner, Gru-Ve, or GV.

Grüner Veltliner plantings are still relatively rare outside Austria and so far the unique terroir of eastern Austria seems to suit the grape best.

In Austria, Grüner can be found everywhere. In the local Heurigen, or wine taverns, the young wine is often served with sparkling water as a refreshing spritzer. More serious Grüners make for a good aperitif and the wine has demonstrated a wonderful capacity for accompanying a wide variety of dishes and cuisines, from sushi and shellfish to Chinese dishes.

Though most often enjoyed young, Grüner Veltliner has been steadily winning a reputation as a wine that ages incredibly well, rivaling the longevity of the greatest Bugundies and Rieslings, with some examples still fresh and complex even after five decades.

随着奥地利酿造出愈来愈多精彩的红酒，

最闪亮的葡萄品种仍是土生土长、辛香萦

绕的「绿维特利纳」 (Grüner Veltliner)。谈到他们著名的白葡萄「绿维特利纳」时，

奥地利人会提及一特殊字眼：Pfefferl，指

的是绿维特利纳鲜明的白胡椒香气与尾韵。

绿维特利纳葡萄酒风味丰富多样，除

了特有的香料味，也有柑橘、桃李、强烈

的矿石味，近年酿造的产品更有热带水果

香气；酒精含量从 11% 到 14.5% 不等，酸

度较高，喝来爽口清冽。

大约三分之一奥地利葡萄园种植着

绿维特利纳，尽管过去十年来，耕作面

积减少了五分之一以上，但其仍是奥地利

的主要葡萄品种。即使耕作面积下降，品

质却不减反升，产量虽减，却在全球爱酒

人士间掀起一阵旋风，各地鉴赏家称之为

Gruner、Gru-Ve 或 GV。

绿维特利纳在奥地利之外较为罕见，

捷克及匈牙利有部分种植，最近澳大利亚、

美国与新西兰也开始尝试。目前为止，奥

地利东部独特的风土条件似乎最适合此种

葡萄生长。

绿维特利纳葡萄酒在奥地利随处可见，

当地小酒馆 Heurigen 会在年份较短的绿维

特利纳中加入气泡水，作为清凉饮料，年

份较长的绿维特利纳则适合当开胃酒，可

搭配从寿司、带壳海鲜到中国菜等各式各

样的菜肴与料理。

绿维特利纳虽然多半在新酿好时饮用，

但酒界已渐渐发现它陈年后表现依然非常

出色，比起顶级的勃根地红酒与雷司令白

酒亦不遑多让。有些放置五十年后，喝来

依旧层次丰富、新鲜清爽。

Scenes from eastern Austria, where red grapes have been gaining ground but Grüner Veltliner is still the star.

此景摄于奥地利东部，红葡萄初受青睐

之时，绿维特利纳依然是耀眼明星。

FRO

M T

OP

LEF

T: A

WM

B/L

UK

AN

, G

ERH

AR

D T

RU

MLE

R,

FAB

ER,

KO

MIT

EE K

AM

PTA

L,

LUK

AN

, EG

ON

MA

RK

, FA

BER

, K

OM

ITEE

KA

MP

TAL

, B

ERN

HA

RD

SC

HR

AM

M,

ÖW

M/G

OTS

CH

IM

138 | T K | f l a v o r d n a

sponsored feature sponsored feature

f l a v o r d n a | T K | 139

sponsored feature

Chef de Cuisine Guillaume Galliot

Chef Guillaume Galliot’s precision in the kitchen, mastery of his ingredients and improvisational wizardry make a meal at The Tasting Room one of the most satisfying gourmet experiences in the region.

leave it up to the chef主厨做主创意上菜

sponsored featuresponsored feature

“THE SECRET to perfectly cooked crab is to match the grams with the cooking time,” says Guillaume Galliot, Chef de Cuisine at The Tasting Room, City of Dreams Macau. “Five hundred grams of crab needs to be cooked for five hundred seconds.”

Cooking perfect crab is essential for Chef Guillaume’s signature dish of Alaskan crab tartar. Served in the empty shell of a razor clam, the crab is topped with pieces of the clam, bright segments of grapefruit and orange, and sprigs of coriander. A caviar and champagne sauce balances the strong sea flavors. “When you go to Brittany and get a wave of that strong sea smell – that is what this dish is like,” he says.

Guillaume cooks in a pure, direct style, aiming to coax his ingredients into communicating their true essence. Like every great chef, he has a deep understanding of how to take advantage of the bounty of each season and delights in the new possibilities that are constantly arriving. The arrival of autumn means one thing most of all: white truffles. “Every dish I make with white truffles I try to pair with rich ingredients. That’s the perfect match for a truffle,” he says. “You

澳门新濠天地「御膳房」主厨 Guillaume Galliot 和大家分享煮螃蟹的秘诀：「煮好螃

蟹的诀窍就是有多少克的螃蟹，就煮多少

时间。五百克蟹肉就煮五百秒。」

煮出完美的螃蟹，才能做出 Guillaume主厨的招牌菜「阿拉斯加皇帝蟹鞑靼」。这

道菜以蛏子壳盛装蟹肉，上铺蛏肉，再加

上晶莹剔透的葡萄柚与柑橙瓣，缀以芫荽

枝，最后以鱼子酱和香槟酱汁平衡强劲的

海洋风味结尾。主厨强调：「这道菜要营造

Abalone Carbonara Style with 56 Month Pata Negra Ham, White Truffles. 煙肉忌廉鮑魚配五十六個

月西班牙火腿及白松露

f l a v o r d n a | T K | 141

tk10 flavor dna

Documents