to complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circlechapter 2 … · 16 to complete the pattern...

notch

facing1/2”extension

use for:grainlinelayoutcutting fabricpattern markingsdartsseamscollarsclosures

cut 1 fabric on foldcut 2 with facing

cut 2interfacing

cent

erfr

ont

fold

Front Bodice #1

1To complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle Chapter 2

Chapter 4Chapter 6Chapter 17

2

stit

chto

mat

chpo

ints

for

dart

tuck

fro

ntbo

dic

e#2

no

tch

stit

chto

mat

chpo

ints

for

dart

tuck

s

toco

mpl

ete

the

patt

ern

join

bod

ice

#1to

#2at

circ

le

To complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle

Fron

tBod

ice

#2

Chapter 2Chapter 4Chapter 6Chapter 17

3

cut 2 fabric

use for:grainlinelayoutcutting fabricpattern markingsdartsseamscollars

cut

her

efo

rce

nter

back

seam

cent

erba

ckfo

ld

Back Bodice #1

To complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circleChapter 2Chapter 4Chapter 6

4

stitch to matchpointsfor dart tuck front bodice #2

notch

stitch to matchpointsfor dart tucks


Back Bodice #2


5

front bodice #1cut 1

cent

erfr

ont

plac

eo

nfo

ld


French Curved Dart

Chapter 4

6

French Curved Dart

To complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle Chapter 4

fisheye/contoureddart cut 1 in fabric

c.f.

fold

Fisheye/Contoured Dart

7

Chapter 4

notch notch

stitching line

this is not the stitchingline – it is a guide to showthe difference between thecurved stitching and straightdart line

cut 1 in fabric

cent

erfr

ont

–pl

ace

on

fold

Curved Waist Dart

8Chapter 4

cut 1

notch notchfold line

facing cut 1 interfacing

Square/Round Patch Pocket

9Chapter 5

10

welt pocket lining cut 1 here

cut 1

use for:welt pocketcut 1 in fabriccut 1 lining(as above)

opening

Square/Round PatchPocket Lining

Chapter 5

11

width

cut 2 fabriccut 1 interfacing

Pocket Flap

Chapter 5

cut 2

cen

ter

fro

nt

Shorts Front with Angled Side Pocket

12Chapter 5

13

cut 2

Angled Side PocketLining

Chapter 5

14

cut 2

Angled Side Pocket

Chapter 5

pocketplacem

ent

cut on fold

no

tch

wh

encu

to

nfo

ld

cut 1 on fold for gathered seamcut 1 on fold for faced rufflecut 1 on fold for single rufflecut 1 on fold for straight narrow rolled hem

cut

her

efo

rsi

ng

leru

ffle

cut 1 fabric here on fold for eased seam

Straight Fabric Section

15


princess seamfront bodice #1notched/lapel collarcut 2 fabric

cent

erfr

ont

to complete the patternjoin bodice #1 to #2 at circle

matchpointPrincess Seam Front Bodice #1

16 To complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle

Chapter 6Chapter 11

17

front bodicenotched/lapelcollar #2

Princess Seam


Chapter 6Chapter 11

18

front bodnotched/lcollar #2

cut 2 fabric


Princess Seam SideFront Bodice

Chapter 6Chapter 11

19

cut

1fa

bric

Conc

ave

Curv

e

Chapter 6

20

cut

1fa

bri

c

Conv

exCu

rve

Chapter 6

21

cut 1 fabric

use for: v shaped seamwaistbandwaist facingbias waist finishcurved a line hembias false hem

c.f.

fold

matchpoint

Front Skirt


22


use for: v shape seamwaistbandwaist facingbias waist finish c.

f.fo

ldmatchpoint

Front Yoke


23 Chapter 6Chapter 8Chapter 9Chapter 12Chapter 15

mark dart point here

cut 2 fabric

use for:seamszipperswaistbandwaist facingbias waist finishcurved a-line hembias false hem

Back Skirt

24

cut 1

matchpoint

Godet

Chapter 6

25

cut 1 fabriccut 2 underlining

c.f.

fold

notch

Princess SeamStrapless Front Bodice

Chapter 6

26

cut 2 fabriccut 2 underlining

Princess SeamStrapless SideFront Bodice

Chapter 6

to complete pattern join pleats #1 to #2 at circlen

otch

no

tchn

otch

box

inve

rted

box

inve

rted

inve

rted

knife

pleatkn

ifepleat

knife

no

tch

no

tch

no

tch

no

tchall

pleats(to

pan

dbo

ttom

)

cut

1,u

sefo

r:in

vertedbo

xkn

ife

Pleats#1

27To complete the pattern join pleats #1 to #2 at circle

no

tchn

otch

no

tch

box

inve

rted

box

box

inve

rted

knife

pleatpleat

knife

pleat

no

tch

no

tch

no

tch

cut

1,u

sefo

r:in

vertedbo

xkn

ife

no

tchall

pleats(to

pan

dbo

ttom

)

to complete pattern join pleats #1 to #2 at circle

Pleats#2

To complete the pattern join pleats #1 to #2 at circle28

matchpoint

matchpoint

use for:kickpleat (cut 2 fabric)hem split (cut 2 fabric)vent cut (1 fabric w.s.u)

fold

lin

e

cut 2interfacingfor hemsplit

cut 1 for vent

notch

notch

Kick Pleat

29

Chapter 7Chapter 16

matchpoint

cut 1 fabric

Kick PleatUnderlay

30Chapter 7

fly front

matchpoint

Fly Front

31Chapter 8

5”zi

pper

len

gth

cut

1si

de

toh

ere

cut 1 fabric cut 1 interfacing

Fly FrontExtension

32

Chapter 8

cut 1/2interfacing

cut 1/2interfacing

exte

nsi

on

stra

igh

tw

aist

ban

d#2

cut

1fa

bric

stra

igh

tw

aist

ban

d#1

cut

infa

bric

to complete the pattern, joinwaistband #1 to #2 at circle.

cbsi

de

seam

Stra

ight

Wai

stba

nd#1

33

Stra

ight

Wai

stba

nd#2

To complete the pattern, join waistband #1 to #2 at circle

Chapter 9

gra

inli

ne

cutt

ing

lin

e

use for:single flounce (cut 1)gathered flounce (cut 2)overlaping flounce (cut 2)mock seam (cut 1)edgestitch (cut 1)circular narrowrolled hem (cut 7)

flounce

stitch here for narrow rolled hem

1/4” s

eam

allo

wan

cefo

rsi

ng

leflo

unce

1/2

” all

owan

cefo

rg

athe

red

flou

nce

Flounce

34Chapter 10Chapter 15

cut 2cut 1 interfacing

c.b.fold

Mandarin Collar

35

Chapter 11

36


c.b.fold

Shirt Collar

Chapter 11

37


c.b.

fold

matchpoint

Notched/LapelUpper Collar

Chapter 11

38

cut 2 on biasmatchpoint

Notched/LapelUnder Collar

Chapter 11

39

matchpoint


1

ed/lapelfacing #2

to complete the patternjoin facing #1 and #2 at circle

Notched Lapel Collar Facing #1

To complete the pattern join facing #1 to #2 at circle

40

cut 1cb

fold

notched/lapelcollar facing #2

to complete the pjoin facing #1 an

To complete the pattern join facing #1 to #2 at circle

41

cut 1cb

fold

Back NeckFacing

42

c.f. fold

fro

ntcu

t1

on

fold

fabr

iccu

t1

on

fold

inte

rfac

ing

Fron

tNec

kFa

cing

Chapter 12

43

cut

2fab

riccu

t2

interfacing

BackSquare

NeckFacing

Chapter 12

44


Back WaistFacing

Chapter 12

45

cut 2 fabric

no

tches

no

tches

shirt sleeve placket cut this length

Continuous Placket

Chapter 13

46

fold

line

cut 2 fabric

ShirtSleevePlacket

Chapter 13

47Chapter 13

tuck

no

tchn

otch

tuck

cut 2 fabric

Tucked Shirt Sleeve

48

cut 2

cut

cut 1/2 interfacing

cuff

len

gth

shir

tsl

eeve

plac

ket

cuff

len

gth

toh

ere

cont

inu

ou

spl

acke

t

Cuff

Chapter 13

49

cut 2

Full Size Front ArmholeEased Set-in Sleeve

Chapter 14

50

cut 2

Full Size Back Armhole #1Eased Set-in Sleeve

To complete the pattern join back armhole #1 to #2 at circle

Chapter 12Chapter 14

51

cut

2

Full

Size

Back

Arm

hole

#2Ea

sed

Set-i

nSl

eeve

To complete the pattern join back armhole #1 to #2 at circle

Chapter 12Chapter 14

cut 2

match notchto shoulder seam

Front Set-in Sleeve

52

Chapter 14

cut 2

Back Set-in Sleeve

53

Chapter 14

notch

notch

notch

matchpoint

ventcut 1 fabricw.s.u.

fold

lin

e

interfacingcut 1

Vent

54

Chapter 15

55

notch

matchpoints

notch

hem split lininguse for:hem split (cut 2 in lining)vent (cut 1 lining w.s.u.)

Hem Split Lining Chapter 16

56

notch

notch

matchpoint

vent liningcut 1 w.s.u.

Vent Lining

Chapter 16

57

right front left front

cent

erfr

ont

cent

erfr

ont

Button and Buttonhole Placement WorksheetShirt with Front Band and Mandarin Collar

58

neckline

cent

erfr

ont

cent

erfr

ont

right front left front

Button and Buttonhole Placement WorksheetShirt with No Band or Collar

to complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circlechapter 2 … · 16 to complete the pattern...

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