tobias konrath

LESSON PLANCourse Title: Women’s Wear Drafting 3

Course Number: FD-0351-05

Course Duration: 4 hours per week

Course Outline:

WEEK 1/2

Made to Measure Pants Value 15%

Drafting of blocks for individual figures, the lecturer will introduce the students to the proper method of taking measurements on a live model and will explain how to create a personal measurement chart for individual student figures. Refer to Metric Pattern Cutting 4th edition by Winifred Aldrich pages 170-171.Construction of Classic Tailored Trouser (Pant) Block (refer to notes) or (refer to Metric Pattern Cut-ting 4th edition by Winifred Aldrich) pages 98-99This pants is to be made to measure for each student according to his or her size chart. The objective of this lesson is for students to understand the differences between a standard size and an individual size, or a made to measure block as opposed to a standard block. Students will realize a fitting toile or muslin for this draft and corrections will be executed on the paper pattern after fitting. This corrected pattern is that transferred to a personal block, which can be used for the final Pant Suit project.

Assignment 1 Produce Toile or muslin for fitting. After correction to paper plan produce or transfer to personal block.

WEEK 3/4

Made to Measure Bodice Value 15%

Drafting of blocks for individual figures, the lecturer will introduce the students to the proper method of taking measurements on a live model and will explain how to create a personal measurement chart for individual student figures. Refer to Metric Pattern Cutting 4th edition by Winifred Aldrich pages 170-171.The bodice will be made to measure for each individual student according to his or her own measure-ments. This bodice will be used drafted and cut in muslin or toile in order to fit and make correction. After the corrections this paper pattern will be transfer to a personal block. This block will be used for the draft of the Pant Suit Project.

Assignment 2 Produce Toile or muslin for fitting. After correction to paper plan produce or transfer to personal block.

 

WEEK 5/6

Raised Collar Jacket with Raglan Sleeves and Peplum Value 20%

For this exercise the objective is to get a better understanding of the Tailored Jacket and its various components. A brief explanation will be given on the Tailored Sleeve and how to construct it, refer to Metric Pattern Cutting 4th edition by Winifred Aldrich pages 24-25.For this exercise the student will be constructing the Basic Raglan, refer to Metric Pattern Cutting 4th edition by Winifred Aldrich pages 58-59. In this exercise, the raglan sleeve is in one piece with the raised collar, the base of this collar is the shawl collar stand. This jacket has princess line with shaped flap and pockets. The peplum is flared and is cut in one piece with the front.

Assignment 2 (10%).The objective of this assignment is to produce the given design, including all the components to pro-duce this garment. The student will produce a professional plan and pattern pieces with all appropri-ate grainlines and notches.To be handed in on WEEK 5.

WEEK 7, 8, 9, 10, 11

Pant Suit Project Value 40%

For this final Pant Suit Project, the students will propose a series of sketches to the lecturer. Together the lecturer and the student will select a design to be undertaken for this final project. This design should have a certain degree of difficulty to challenge the student, in order to demonstrate the knowl-edge acquired during this module. Elements of design to be considered can be related to some of the details and techniques from this module.

We will visit the local markets to research and source materials and this time we will include a visit to the leather market as well.

The student can chose to make a made to measure pantsuit for themselves by using the individual measurement chart employed for the classical tailored trouser and the bodice. The pantsuit can also be made for a classmate if the student so desires. The objective in doing this project, which is made to measure, is to demonstrate that the student can accurately tailor a garment to a specific measurement chart and individual.

The students will produce a paper pattern draft and a toile for this project. The lecturer and the students will discuss alterations and fit with toile on live model. The student will revise pattern and fabric can be than selected to realize the final garment. The garment is sewn accordingly and than presented at group presentation on live model for evaluation. Final garment, plan, toile and paper pattern is passed to lecturer for final evaluation.

 

MADE TO MEASURE PANTS & BODICE

 

 

PLAN OF THE BODICE BLOCK

PLAN OF THE BODICE BLOCKFRONT

T3 – C3 Place E1 on square with center back C – T Raise front 1.5cm. constant

T3 – P3 Same measurement as P – T, (20cm) Square lines on T3 – P3 – C3 from center front towards the left

P3 – P4 3 times 1/8 of half the contour of the bust + 2.25cm. constant 3 x 5.75 = 17.25 + 19.50cm.

P4 – P5 1/8 of half the contour of the bust = 5.75

P4 – P6 Half of P3 – P4 moved 0.5 towards P3

T3 – T91 Same measurement as P3 – P5 Trace a line from P5 – P91

T3 – T4 Same measurement as P3 – P6 Trace a line from P6 – T4

P6 – P7 From P6 lower 1cm. Constant for bust level

T5 – T6 Front dart = 2.5cm. Half of dart on each side of T4 Trace a line from T5 to P7 and from T6 to P7

C3 – C4 Same measurement as P3 – P4 Trace a line from C4 to P4

C3 – E3 1/8 of half of the bust + 1.25cm. constant 5.75 + 1.25 = 7cm.

C3 – E4 Same measurement as C3 – B3, 7cm. Trace a line from E4 to P7 (bust level)

C4 – C5 1/8 of half the contour of the bust, 5.75cm. Trace a line from C5 to P7 (bust dart)

C4 – C6 1/3 of 1/4 of half the contour of the bust + 0.3cm. 11.5 divided by 3 = 3.8 + 0.3 = 4.1cm. Trace a line from C5 to C6, extend towards the left

PLAN OF THE BODICE BLOCKFRONT (continued)

C5 – E5 Front shoulder = 1/4 of half contour of the bust + 0.5cm. 11.5 + 0.5 = 12cm

G2 1/3 of C4 to P4 Trace a line from E5 to G2 Curve 0.5cm. in the center of this line

E4 – E7 Same measurement as C3 – E3 = 7cm. (at 90 degrees from E4) Join E4 to E7 and E7 to E3

E7 – E8 1/3 of C3 – E7 less 0.3cm. Trace a curve (keeping 0.5 on square with E3) to E4

G5 – G3 1/2 of C5 – E5 (position of shoulder dart)

G2 – P5 Trace a curve 2.5cm. from P4 at 45 degrees

T91 – T7 Half of the extra measurement between front and back dart less measurement of half / waist with ease dart values 49cm – (33 + 1cm.) = 15 – 5.5 (value of front and back darts) = 9.5 9.5 divided by 2 = 4.75cm. T9 – T8 Same measurement as T91 – T7

P5 – G4 1/5 of P5 – T7, position of bust dart on side seam

PLAN OF THE BODICE BLOCKBack

C – T Center back length = 41cm.

C – P Half length of the back (C – T + 0.5 towards T) 20.5cm + 0.5cm = 21cm. Square lines from C B towards right on C – P – T

C – C1 3 times 1/8 of half bust contour 0.75cm. ease 3 x 5.75 = 17.25 + 0.75 ease = 18cm.

P – P1 Same measurement as C – C1Trace a line parallel to center back C1 – P1

P – P11 Half of P – P1

P1 – P2 1/8 of half the contour of bust = 5.75cm.

T – T11 Same measurement as P – P11 Trace a line parallel to Center Back P11 – T11

T1 – T2 Back dart - 3cm. 1/2 of the dart on each side of T11 Trace a line from T1 to P11 and from T2 to P11

T – T9 Same measurement as P – P2 Trace a line from P2 to T9 (Back side seam)

C – E 1/8 of half the contour of bust + 0.5cm. constant 5.75 + 1.25 = 7cm.

E – E1 1/4 of 1/8 half the contour of the bust + 0.5cm. constant 5.75 divided by 4 = 1.43 + 0.5 = 1.93cm. Square a line from C – C1 going up

PLAN OF THE BODICE BLOCKBACK (continued)

C1 – C2 1/4 of 1/8 of contour of bust 4.75 divided by 4 = 1.4cm. Trace a line from E1 to C2, extend towards right

E1 – E2 Shoulder = 1/4 of half bust contour + 0.5 11.5 + 0.5 = 12cm. Give 0.5cm ease + 1cm dart to the shoulder 12 + 0.5cm + 1cm = 13.5cm

F Half of E1 – E2 (center of the dart)

F1 – F2 1/2 of dart each side of F = 0.5cm. Trace a line from P11 to F1 Extend this line o.5cm. towards top = F3

F3 – F4 7cm. Shoulder dart length

F4 – F5 Same length as F3 – F4 = 7cm. Trace a line from F5 – E2 and from F3 to E1

C2 – G Half of C2 to P1

G – G1 3cm. constant Trace a line from E2 to G Curve 0.25cm in the center of this line

G1 – P2 Trace a curve 2.8cm. from P1 at 45 degrees

E1 – C Trace a curve 1.5cm. from E at 45 degrees – Back neckline

T8 – T9 Same measurement as T7 – T91 To be determined after drafting the front.

  PLAN OF THE BODICE BLOCK

 

CLASSIC TAILORED TROUSER BLOCK

 

CLASSIC TAILORED TROUSER BLOCK

 

 

RAISED COLLAR JACKETWITH RAGLAN SLEEVES & PEPLUM

Construct a raglan sleeve with shoul-der dart or seam

Front with integrated peplum and button fasten-ing

Pocket in the cutting line with flap

Raised collar

Modified princess line

Peplum

 

RAGLAN SLEEVES

 

 

RAISED NECKLINES

 

 

 

 

 

Pant Suit Project BriefFor this final project, use all knowledge that has been ac-quired since the beginning of module.Sketch a series of Pant suits or less formal pants + jacket outfits. We will evaluate your designs together and choose a final outfit. This selected design should include some interesting style lines, collars and lapel treatments, pockets, dart manipula-tion, and sleeves detail.

Using the knowledge that has been acquired throughout the module, draft the master plan of the pant and jacket design. Trace out all the pattern pieces, add all seam allow-ances as required. Cut and sew a toile to be presented to lecturer. Lecturer will give a critique; correction and altera-tion are discussed then they will be transferred to the plan and pattern. Research fabrication and notions to be used in the final garment, these swatches are to be discussed with lecturer. Using selected fabric the final garment will be realized. Present the Pant Suit on live model with original photo or sketch. Plan, paper pattern, toile and final garment are passed to lecturer for final assessment.

Additional Drafting References