tools & materials starter guide
TRANSCRIPT
TextileArtist.org
Tools & materials starter guide
TextileArtist.org Stitch Club
TextileArtist.org Stitch Club
The stitcher's journey
Tools & materials starter guide
Getting startedFabric, thread, some embroidery scissors and a needle are all you need to begin your embroidery journey. But there are a few other supplies that may come in handy along the way.
This guide will help you figure out which tools and materials are suitable for which jobs.
As a Stitch Club member, you’ll receive a customised list of what’s required for each workshop. But try to stay flexible. There’s no need to always use exactly the same materials or tools as the workshop leader.
In fact, as your confidence grows, we encourage you to be as resourceful as you can with the materials you have to hand. Don’t be afraid to break the rules! Feel free to improvise or recycle, and think outside the box. That way you’ll start to develop your own take on the exercises and really make them your own.
In this guide we have provided links to places online where you can buy some of the items we mention. But textile art supplies are available in lots of online stores so do spend some time on Google investigating the options.
Or, if you prefer to touch and feel before buying, take a look around your local craft shops or haberdasheries. Thrift stores or charity shops can also be a great source of vintage threads and fabrics to recycle into your next artwork.
TextileArtist.org Stitch Club
General suppliers
TextileArtist.org Stitch Club
United KingdomAmazonCloudcrafteBayEtsyGreen FibresHobbycraftLovecrafts
AustraliaAll ThreadsAmazonDMCeBayEtsyThe Embroidery DenHand Embroidery Supplies
EU / US / WorldwideAmazonAnita's Little StitchesDMCeBayEmbroideryEtsyFabricJoannMissouri Quilt Co
Some of the links in this PDF may be affiliate links, meaning TextileArtist.org receive a small commission (at no extra cost to you) if you use the link to make a purchase.
Tools & materials starter guide
The stitcher's journey
TextileArtist.org Stitch Club
TextileArtist.org Stitch Club TextileArtist.org Stitch Club
The stitcher's journey
Basic toolkitNeedlesTo begin, look for assorted sets that include needles with different diameters, lengths and eye sizes.
Small needle size numbers indicate a larger needle, and larger sizes indicate a smaller, finer needle.
Needles can be sharp or blunt-ended. Blunt-ended needles are useful for open-weave fabrics, tapestry and cross stitch.
To make your needle choice consider the thickness of your thread, and how lightweight, fine, tightly-woven or dense the fabric is. This will help you decide if you need a thin or thick needle, with a small or large eye, and whether it should be blunt or very sharp.
Choose a needle that works well for both fabric and thread. The eye of the needle should be a little wider than the diameter of the thread, to avoid thread damage. But you don’t want the eye to be so large that it pokes big holes in the fabric.
Quality brands include Tulip Needles and John James Needles.
Tools & materials starter guide
TextileArtist.org Stitch Club
TextileArtist.org Stitch Club TextileArtist.org Stitch Club
The stitcher's journey
Tools & materials starter guide
Needle typesCrewel/embroidery needles Crewel/embroidery needles are good for hand embroidery. They have a sharp point and a longer eye than a standard sewing needle.
Chenille needles Chenille needles have a large eye and a sharp point and are great for thick embroidery threads, wool, several strands of thread, or ribbons.
Tapestry needles Tapestry needles are blunt and have a large eye. They are good for counted cross stitch, and for stitching wool and other thicker threads into loosely-woven fabrics.
General purpose sewing needles/’sharps’General purpose sewing needles are good for appliqué and general sewing.
Long darning needles Long darners are excellent for needle-weaving.
Beading needles Beading needles are long and thin with a small eye, so the bead can slide over it easily.
Curved upholstery needles Curved upholstery needles are helpful when mounting and lacing up the back of an embroidery that you have stretched over acid-free cardstock ready for framing.
SuppliersTulip Needles (UK)John James Needles (UK)Etsy (UK / EU)BeBe Bold (EU)Oz Quilts (Australia)Amazon (US)Anita’s Little Stitches (US)
TextileArtist.org Stitch Club
TextileArtist.org Stitch Club TextileArtist.org Stitch Club
The stitcher's journey
Tools & materials starter guide
Basic toolkitSewing pinsDressmaking pins or ball head pins are useful for attaching appliqué or collage pieces, or whenever you are pinning layers of materials together.
TextileArtist.org Stitch Club
TextileArtist.org Stitch Club TextileArtist.org Stitch Club
The stitcher's journey
Tools & materials starter guide
Basic toolkitScissorsYou can make use of various different types of scissors when creating textile art:
Embroidery scissors Embroidery scissors are small, sharp scissors to help cut your threads cleanly. Choose from straight, stork or curved blade designs.
Large fabric/dressmakers’ scissors Large fabric/dressmakers’ scissors are for cutting fabric.
General purpose paper scissors General purpose paper scissors are for cutting templates or collage paper.
Small sharp fabric scissors or specialist appliqué scissors If you are cutting out small appliqué pieces, a pair of small sharp fabric scissors or specialist appliqué scissors will help you snip carefully around the edges of the shape.
SuppliersSew Essential (UK / Worldwide)Merchant and Mills (UK)Prym (Worldwide)Anita Little Stitches (US) All Threads (Australia)
TextileArtist.org Stitch Club
TextileArtist.org Stitch Club TextileArtist.org Stitch Club
The stitcher's journey
Tools & materials starter guide
Basic toolkitThreadsGather a small selection of threads to experiment with. Different thread types will allow you to stitch delicate detail, add texture or fill large areas.
You can also thread your needle with two different colours or thread types to achieve blended tones or textured variations. This is sometimes called mixing in the needle.
Thread typesSix-stranded embroidery cotton thread (embroidery floss) Use between one and six strands of this thread, depending on how detailed you want your work to be.
One strand might be used for outlines or stitching small details, particularly when you are working with fine, lightweight background fabrics.
To stitch a solid line with good coverage, try two or three strands.
Six strands used together can add lots of texture as they will make the stitches sit high on top of the fabric.
TextileArtist.org Stitch Club
TextileArtist.org Stitch Club TextileArtist.org Stitch Club
The stitcher's journey
Tools & materials starter guide
Use good quality thread such as DMC (colour availability) or Anchor (colour availability) as they will be colourfast and smoother, so less likely to tangle.
DMC also supplies variations of six-stranded cotton including Coloris multi-coloured threads and Colour Variations variegated threads.
Perlé/Pearl cotton Pearl cotton is a twisted, non-divisible thread which comes in different weights and thicknesses, from size � (heavyweight) to size �� (finest). It has high lustre and its twisted nature gives a textured effect. It is good for creating defined, raised stitches. DMC Perlé is a good quality thread.
Coton A Broder/Special Embroidery thread This is a fine long-fibre cotton with four twisted, non-divisible strands, making a round thread which is beautifully smooth and soft to use. It is good for specialist embroidery techniques including blackwork, whitework and cutwork as well as satin stitch, couching and general embroidery.
Coton a broder (size ��) can be substituted with another non-divisible, soft and silky thread called cotton floche (size ��) which is found in the US, though not easily available elsewhere.
Linen threads Linen threads are strong thick threads, good for adding raised texture. Linladan supplies contemporary and vintage linen threads.
Silk thread Silk thread comes in different thicknesses and is good for colour shading and adding sheen.
Wool Two-ply crewel wool or four-ply tapestry wool adds good texture and covers the background fabric well when using filling stitches.
Crewel wool stretches and thins as you stitch, and it can break while you are stitching so is best used in shorter lengths. Appletons Crewel wool is a quality brand (colour availability).
Machine embroidery threads Machine embroidery threads are great for fine detail stitching by hand, outlines or sewing machine embroidery.
TextileArtist.org Stitch Club
TextileArtist.org Stitch Club TextileArtist.org Stitch Club
The stitcher's journey
Tools & materials starter guide
Try Superior Masterpiece cotton thread, or Gütermann Sew-all (polyester) or ���% cotton threads. Or look for vintage machine threads and hand stitching threads in charity/thrift shops.
Trims, cord, string, wool, ribbonThese are all good for couching, where a thicker thread is laid and secured to the surface of the work using small stitches.
SuppliersLovecrafts (UK)Cloudcraft (UK)Barnyarns (UK)Superior Masterpiece thread from Quilt Direct (UK)DeVere Yarns fine embroidery silk (UK)Anita’s Little Stitches (US)DMC from Embroidery.com (US)Superior Threads (US)Threaded Needle (Australia)All Threads (Australia)Super Masterpiece thread from Oz Quilts (Australia)Linladan (Worldwide)
TextileArtist.org Stitch Club
TextileArtist.org Stitch Club TextileArtist.org Stitch Club
The stitcher's journey
Tools & materials starter guide
FabricsYou can embroider on any fabric, but some are easier to use than others.
Even weave linenEven weave linen is woven with the same number of threads per inch going in each direction (warp/weft), all of a consistent thickness and forming a neat grid pattern.
In a low count fabric (such as �� count) the warp and weft threads, and the spaces between them, are clearly visible. This makes even weaves excellent for counted stitchwork techniques like cross stitch.
High count even weave linen (�� count) is very finely woven so it can also be used for surface embroidery where you are not stitching in grid patterns.
Plain weave fabrics Plain weave fabrics are closely-woven so they are great for freestyle/surface embroidery. And they can be even weave, too, if the warp and weft threads are of an even thickness, and if the fabric has the same number of threads per inch in each direction (also called balanced plain weaves).
TextileArtist.org Stitch Club
TextileArtist.org Stitch Club TextileArtist.org Stitch Club
The stitcher's journey
Tools & materials starter guide
Plain weaves come in different weights, rather than thread counts. To start, choose natural fabrics of a medium-weight (around �½-� oz, ���-��� g/m²).
Fabric for textile artLinen, cotton, linen-cotton mixes, quilter’s cotton or washed/pre-shrunk calico (sometimes called muslin in the US) all work well for textile art. These will be smooth, easy to stitch on and have a robust finish.
Beginners may want to avoid sheer, shiny or stretchy fabrics, or textured fabrics like velvet, as they are harder to stitch into.
You can also re-use old domestic linen and clothing made from natural materials. Re-used fabrics will be soft to handle and enjoyable to stitch into. Just wash and iron the fabric before you use it.
Adding a stabiliserA stabiliser layer can be useful to support your embroidery work and reduce puckering and stretching of the fabric you are stitching on.
The stabiliser layer is an additional piece of fabric attached to the back of your embroidery fabric. Either tack the two layers together using large basting stitches or if you are using a hoop, line up both layers and put them into the hoop together.
Stabilisers are good for lightweight or loosely-woven fabrics that need extra support, or if you are doing a lot of dense stitching or adding beads. The stabiliser will support your background fabric and make it easier to stitch.
Try using a backing layer of medium-weight washed calico (muslin) or some re-used domestic fabric like an old cotton or linen sheet or pillowcase, anything that is supportive but easy to stitch through.
Iron-on interfacing is not recommended as the glue layer can make stitching difficult, putting extra strain on your hands.
Tips for fabric preparation• Where possible, wash and iron your fabrics before use. This will help
avoid shrinkage and give you a smooth surface to stitch on. Ironing your embroidery after stitching is not recommended as it can flatten the work and diminish the beauty of the textured stitchwork.
• Make sure you leave a good sized allowance around the edge of your stitched area, to allow you to finish and mount your work.
TextileArtist.org Stitch Club
TextileArtist.org Stitch Club TextileArtist.org Stitch Club
The stitcher's journey
Tools & materials starter guide
SuppliersFabrics can be sourced online worldwide from Ebay, Etsy, Amazon and in local and online fabric shops. Search for ‘medium-weight linen’ or ‘linen cotton’ or ‘embroidery fabric’. Order small samples to test them out before buying large quantities.
Empress Mills calico (UK / EU)Fabric Inspirations (UK / Worldwide)Fabrics-Store (US)Etsy (US)Pineapple Fabrics (US)Dharma Trading Co. (US)
Look for old linen or cotton sheeting and tablecloths in thrift stores and charity shops.
TextileArtist.org Stitch Club
TextileArtist.org Stitch Club TextileArtist.org Stitch Club
The stitcher's journey
Tools & materials starter guide
Embroidery hoopsHoops keep your embroidery surface smooth and flat, and can help stop the fabric from puckering. Remember, you don’t have to use a hoop at all. Some people like them, others don’t! It’s a personal preference.
Start with a hoop that is easy to hold, for example a �˝/��cm or 8˝/��cm hoop, and preferably one that is large enough to surround your finished piece.
If you are making a large artwork and want to use a hoop, you will need to stitch the work in sections. This means that any sections you have already completed may be caught in the hoop while you work on the next section.
Always take the work out of the hoop at the end of each stitch session. This will make sure that the embroidery work is not squashed or damaged by leaving it in the hoop for long periods of time.
TextileArtist.org Stitch Club
TextileArtist.org Stitch Club TextileArtist.org Stitch Club
The stitcher's journey
Tools & materials starter guide
Tips for using a hoop• To use a hoop for hand stitching, first drape the fabric (and stabiliser
fabric, if you are using one) over the inner ring, place the outer ring on top and push down, making sure that the fabric is taut, but not stretched so much it becomes distorted.
• Tighten the hoop screw to secure.
• Remember to take your fabric out of the hoop when you are not working on it so the hoop doesn’t mark the fabric.
• If you like, you can wrap cotton tape or bias binding around the inner hoop securing it with a few stitches at each end, to protect the fabric and stop it from slipping in the hoop.
SuppliersAmazon (UK)Amazon (Worldwide)Lovecrafts (UK / EU)Cloudcraft (UK)eBay (Australia)eBay (Worldwide)Embroidery.com (US)
Hoop standsIf you love working with a hoop, you can also buy clamp stands. These allow you to attach the hoop to a table or floor stand, or to a stand that you slide under your thigh while sitting.
Both options mean that the fabric is held securely and you will be able to stitch two-handed! Search online for stands from Siesta Frames or Elbesee Products.
TextileArtist.org Stitch Club
TextileArtist.org Stitch Club TextileArtist.org Stitch Club
The stitcher's journey
Tools & materials starter guide
Other tools & materialsMistyfuseMistyfuse is a fusible web-like product which is useful for attaching appliqué pieces to your work. It is very fine and doesn’t gum up your needle or stiffen your fabric.
SuppliersAmazon (UK)Amazon (Worldwide)
TextileArtist.org Stitch Club
TextileArtist.org Stitch Club TextileArtist.org Stitch Club
The stitcher's journey
Tools & materials starter guide
Erasable fabric pensThere are many types of erasable fabric pen available to mark out your designs. Some fade on contact with air or water, others need an application of heat. Search online for ‘erasable fabric pens’.
Take care and always test first, especially if you are concerned about pen marks reappearing on your work. If you are going to spray or wash your work, make sure your threads are colourfast.
Sometimes a fine line using a sharp pencil is all you need to mark out your designs, especially if you are covering up the marks with your stitching.
SuppliersClover erasable pens (US)Sewline air-erasable pen (Worldwide)Sewline air-erasable pen (UK)Erasable fabric pen selection (Worldwide)Singer water soluble pen (UK)All Threads selection of fabric pens (Australia)
Tissue paperTissue paper is useful for transferring designs without using a fabric pen, and for this purpose any good quality tissue paper will work.
Or try a dressmaker’s tissue paper such as Burda’s dressmaker’s paper.
To transfer a design, trace or draw the basic outline onto tissue paper, pin the tissue paper to your embroidery fabric and stitch the outline with a running stitch or back stitch.
Then carefully ease away the tissue paper without pulling at the stitches, leaving behind the design outline in stitch.
TextileArtist.org Stitch Club
TextileArtist.org Stitch Club TextileArtist.org Stitch Club
The stitcher's journey
Tools & materials starter guide
ThimblesSome stitchers like the protection and control provided by using thimbles and others find them restrictive.
Using a thimble is optional, and down to personal preference. They can be useful when your fabric is hard to stitch through and you can choose a metal or silicone version to suit.
Paints and pencilsAs you begin to experiment you might want to start adding colour to your background fabric or to embellish your work by using fabric paints, acrylic paints, watercolour/Inktense pencils or fabric dyes. It’s a good idea to make test samples to explore your options for adding colour with mixed media.
SuppliersJackson’s Art (UK)Cass Art acrylic starter set (UK / EU)Derwent Inktense pencils (Worldwide)Derwent Watercolour pencils (Worldwide)
Good fabric paint brands include Pebeo Setacolour, Jacquard Dye-na-flow and Jacquard Textile paint. Some are heat-set using an iron and do not change the handle of the fabric. Others act more like paint and sit on the surface of the fabric.
TextileArtist.org Stitch Club
TextileArtist.org Stitch Club TextileArtist.org Stitch Club
The stitcher's journey
Tools & materials starter guide
Rotary cutter and self-healing matThese extremely sharp cutters are used to cut strips of fabric or sections of background fabric, with a clean, straight line. They are a bit like a pizza slice cutter.
Place the fabric on a self-healing mat to protect your work surface. Then simply roll the cutter along, using something with a straight edge, like a metal ruler, to guide you. Olfa is a quality brand.
Rotary cutterAmazon (UK)Amazon (Worldwide)
Self-healing matAmazon (UK)Amazon (Worldwide)
Further informationHere are some useful links to find out more about sewing needles and fabrics:
• Fabric for Embroidery: Plain Weave vs. Even Weave by Mary Corbet.• Needles Guide: Getting right to the point by John James Needles• �� best fabrics for Hand Embroidery