tools & techniques for great-fitting garments - · pdf filetools & techniques for...
TRANSCRIPT
Choose the RIGHT PATTERN SIZE for YOU
Sew the Best-Fitting PantsEVER!
How to FIT KEY AREASShoulders, Arms, Back, Waist & More
THE BEST OF
Get a PERFECT FITTools & Techniques forGreat-Fitting Garments
Your Fitting Questions Answered!
Threads is now available on tablets
THE BEST O
F threadsSPRING 2013
S P R I N G 2 0 1 3
T H R E A D S M A G A Z I N E . C O M
TH166aAdp2.indd 2/28/13 10:08 AM pg 2 - (Cyan)TH166aAdp2.indd 2/28/13 10:08 AM pg 2 - (Magenta)TH166aAdp2.indd 2/28/13 10:08 AM pg 2 - (Yellow)TH166aAdp2.indd 2/28/13 10:08 AM pg 2 - (BlacK)
2013 The Taunton Press Inc.
FITTINGwith Kenneth D. King
SMART
Couture designer Kenneth D. King demonstrates his unique fi tting method of net gain, net loss, and no-net change. Everyone can benefi t from his versatile techniques and master them because they are:
logical and straightforward
easily applied to any garment
so simple anyone can do it
Learn Smart Fitting from Kenneth D. King, who is also a professor at New Yorks Fashion Institute of Technology, and do it at your own pace, in your own home, and review any part at any time. Now professional instructioncan be yours at a fraction of the cost.
This new video series introduces his foolproof way to fi t any garment.
presents... a revolutionary approach to fitting
A terrific value! The complete lesson-packed series is yours for ONLY $149.95
3 DVDs PLUS ALL THESE EXTRAS 4 bonus articles Extra sidebars with Prof. King Behind-the-scenes interview Expert tips, tricks, and secrets And so much more
To order call toll free 800-888-8286Use code: MF800112Or go online: ThreadsMagazine.com/SMART
Item Number: 031038
NEW
TH166aAdp3.indd 2/22/13 3:59 PM pg 3 - (Cyan)TH166aAdp3.indd 2/22/13 3:59 PM pg 3 - (Magenta)TH166aAdp3.indd 2/22/13 3:59 PM pg 3 - (Yellow)TH166aAdp3.indd 2/22/13 3:59 PM pg 3 - (BlacK)
FeaturesG O O D M E A S U R E S
14 Measure It Right Precise and accurate measurements yield
a better-fi tting garment B Y B A R B A R A E M O D I
20 Measuring and Marking Notions Tools that help you fi t and fi nish garments B Y M A R Y R O E H R
26 Does Your Pattern Fit? Before cutting, check your patterns
measurements against your own B Y B A R B A R A E M O D I
31 Fit for Everyone Sew removable covers to make your dress form
work for multiple fi gures B Y K E N N E T H D . K I N G
F I T S T R AT E G I E S
38 Muslin Refined A couture method leads to exquisite garments B Y S U S A N K H A L J E
44 Smart Fitting A simple way to assess and solve your fi t challenges B Y K E N N E T H D . K I N G
51 Fine-tune the Tissue To audition your pattern, pin it together and try it on B Y M A R C Y T I L T O N
56 The Best Custom Pants Dont alter somebody elses patterndraft your own B Y C L A U D E T T E G R A N T
S P R I N G 2 0 1 3
31Adaptable dress form
FeaturesS P R I N G 2 0 1 3
THE BEST OF
Cove
r pho
tos:
(tap
e m
easu
re, f
ront
) Slo
an H
owar
d; a
ll ot
hers
on
fron
t, Sc
ott P
hilli
ps;
(bac
k co
ver)
Sloa
n H
owar
d
SIP29_CT_Contents.indd 4 2/28/13 2:39 PM
F O C U S E D F I T T I N G
64 Start at the Shoulders Your shoulder slope a ects the fi t of every outfi t,
so alter patterns to match your body B Y J U D I T H N E U K A M A N D C A R O L F R E S I A
70 Get the Right Armhole Use a muslin to adjust bust, back, and shoulder
and your armhole almost takes care of itself B Y S A R A H V E B L E N
76 The Perfect Sleeve Start with two simple measurements
and correct the sleeve cap B Y S A R A H V E B L E N
82 Add a Bust Dart This adjustment for a full bust dart
fl atters the entire silhouette B Y L O U I S E C U T T I N G
86 Full & Fabulous How to accommodate a large midsection B Y K A T H L E E N C H E E T H A M
92 Scale It Down Fitting petite fi gures requires more than
a size change B Y K A T H L E E N C H E E T H A M
t h r e a d s m a g a z i n e . c o m
DepartmentsEDITORS NOTE 6Q & A 8THREADSMAGAZINE.COM 10
86space for a midsection
56draft
a pants pattern
38perfecting the muslin
64shoulder
focus
Cove
r pho
tos:
(tap
e m
easu
re, f
ront
) Slo
an H
owar
d; a
ll ot
hers
on
fron
t, Sc
ott P
hilli
ps;
(bac
k co
ver)
Sloa
n H
owar
d
TABLET EDITIONS FREE TO SUBSCRIBERSThreads new digital editions are the same inspirational, informative issues you love, but searchable and full of interactive extras like 360-degree garment views, videos, and photo galleries. Download the app at ThreadsMagazine.com/apps. Access is free with a print subscription or Threads Insider online membership.
SIP29_CT_Contents.indd 5 3/6/13 2:47 PM
wed loveto hear
from you!Send your letters to:
Threads LettersPO Box 5506
Newtown, CT 06470-5506or via email
*
Phot
o: Ja
ck D
euts
ch, s
tylis
t: Je
ssic
a Sa
al
EDITORS NOTE
Deana Tierney MayEditor
Sewing perfection is a garment that fi ts
Ask garment sewers why they make their own clothes, and a great fi t is inevitably a part of their answer. None of us is a standard size
and vive la di rence! Our variety of beautiful shapes means that getting a good fi t from an o -the-rack garment or an out-of-the-package pattern is not a reality for most. However, with knowledge about how to sew for fi t, you can create garments that make you look and feel spectacular.
To help you do that, this issue brings together some of the best fitting articles from Threads 27-year his-tory, written by renowned fitting experts. Whether youre new to garment fitting or you want to tackle a particularly challenging problem, youll find answers on the following pages.
Get started by taking good measurements and dis-covering the best tools for the job. Learn how to iden-tify and solve fitting issues. (Youll see that theres often more than one way to fix a problem.) Make a muslin to experiment freely, and learn what methods work best for you. Or, draft a pattern directly to your measurements, eliminating a lot of fitting adjust-ments right off the bat. Finally, learn how to fine-tune the fit on the areas that need adjusting. We cover shoulders, armholes, sleeves, bust, waist, how to scale down a pattern, and more.
With this issue in hand, you can create and sew gar-ments that fit like a dream in no time!
Happy sewing and happy fitting!Deana Tierney May
Editor For more fi tting
advice:Threads magazine
(ThreadsMagazine.com) covers garment fi tting regularly. Also look for
our popular fi tting books and DVDs available at
TauntonStore.com/sewing-crafts.html
Write an article for Threads reads is a reader-written magazine, and we welcome your submissions. To learn how to propose an article, go to taunton.com/threads/pages/th_authorguidelines.asp.
From the Publisher of
Editor Deana Tierney May
Art Director Rosann Berry
Senior Technical Editor Judith Neukam
Special Issues Carol Fresia Technical Editor
Senior Editor Sarah McFarland
Associate Editor Stephani L. Miller
Central Sta Editor Sarah Opdahl
Senior Copy/ Jeannine Clegg Production Editor
Assistant Art Director Gloria Melfi
Administrative April Mohr Assistant
Contributing Editors Louise CuttingSusan KhaljeKenneth D. KingMary Ray
Seamstress Norma Bucko
Interns Courtney Campbell Emily BerubeDana Finkle
Executive Editor, Books Shawna Mullen
ThreadsMagazine.com
Executive Web Producer Victoria North
Web Producer Evamarie Gomez
Tauntons SewStylish: (ISSN: 1935-8482) is published by The Taunton Press, Inc., Newtown, CT 06470-5506. Telephone 203-426-
8171. Canadian GST paid registration #123210981.
Printed in the USA
THE BEST OF
6 T H R E A D S
SIP29_LT.indd 6 3/1/13 3:08 PM
Shop Our Online Store
ThreadsMagazine.com/ShopNowYour destination for trusted sewing know-howSimply search by product number or call 800-888-8286, use code M3800088
Call Monday-Friday 9AM - 9PM EST and Saturday 9AM - 5PM EST International customers, call 203-702-2204
BOOKS, DVDs, & MORE
SewStylish Spring 2013Softcover MagazineProduct #034028$6.99
Threads Fitting For Every FigurePaperbackProduct #071349$21.95
2013 The Taunton Press
Threads Fitting DVD SeriesDVD Boxed SetProduct #031011$99.95
Threads Industry Insider Techniques, Vol. 5DVDProduct #061104$29.95
Prices are subject to change.
Couture Sewing TechniqueseBookProduct #077865$17.99
Couture Sewing
Revised & Updated
ClaiRe B. shaeffeR
techniques
TAU
NTO
NS
B A S I C T R A I N I N G T O U N L E A S H Y O U R C R E A T I V I T Y
D A T E 2 0 0 8
$6.99 CAN $8.99
B e S e w S t y l i s h . c o m
F r o m t h e e d i t o r s o f Threads
Se
wS
tylish.co
m
FREEPATTERN INSIDE!DESIGNERCLUTCH
SPRING 2013 FASHION SEWING GUIDE
EASY PROJECTS Reverse Ap