topscores_august2012

Current Bid QtyWine (Estimate) Avail Score Tasting Note…

1990 Chateau Latour $450 (600) 2 WA95+

This is one of the more perplexing Latours to evaluate. It has plenty of sweetness as well as a gorgeous, rich fruitiness, but it lacks the firmness one finds in more recent great vintages such as 1996, 2000, 2003, 2005, 2006, and 2008. There is plenty of sweet, ripe currant fruitiness, abundant glycerin, and full body, but Im still waiting for that extra nuance of complexity to emerge. Its all there, but the wine still seems to be more monolithic than one would expect in a wine approaching 19 years of age. It is not the sure-‐fire winner I thought it was in its youth, but then again, I dont have any reason to doubt that more complexity will emerge. WA95+

1998 Chateau Latour $226 (300) 3 WA95+

Not a blockbuster, the 1998 possesses a dark garnet/purple color in addition to a complex bouquet of underbrush, cedar, walnuts, and licorice-‐tinged black currants. Although medium to full-‐bodied and moderately tannic, it lacks the expansiveness in the mid-‐palate necessary to be truly great. Moreover, the tannin is slightly aggressive, although that is hardly unusual in such a young Latour. WA90

1975 Chateau Latour $395 (525) 2 WA93Medium-‐deep brick colored with notes of leather, tobacco, soy, sandalwood, figs and dried berries. Medium bodied and crisp in the mouth with a medium level of velvety tannins, it is fully mature with a long spicy finish. WA93

1996 Chateau Margaux $400 (450) 2 WA99

The 1996 Chateau Margaux, which was bottled in September, 1998, is undoubtedly one of the great classics produced under the Mentzelopoulos regime. In many respects, it is the quintessential Chateau Margaux, as well as the paradigm for this estate, combining measured power, extraordinary elegance, and admirable complexity. I tasted the wine on three separate occasions in January, and in short, it's a beauty! The color is opaque purple. The wine offers extraordinarily pure notes of blackberries, cassis, pain grille, and flowers, gorgeous sweetness, a seamless personality, and full body, with nothing out of place. The final blend (85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, and the rest Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc) contains a high percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon. It tastes complete and long, although backward. My instincts suggest this wine will shut down, but at present it is open-‐knit, tasting like a recently bottled wine. The fruit is exceptionally sweet and pure, and there are layers of flavor in the mouth. I do believe this wine will develop an extraordinary perfume, and possess a high level of richness. WA99

2000 Chateau Lafite Rothschild $1000 (1300) 1 WA98+

A blend of 93.3% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest Merlot, the wine still has a dark ruby/purple color and an extraordinarily youthful nose of graphite, black currants, sweet, unsmoked cigar tobacco, and flowers. The wine is rich, medium to full-‐bodied, but has that ethereal elegance and purity that is always Lafite. I originally predicted that it would first reach maturity in 2011, but I would push that back by 5-‐7 years now, although it has 50-‐60 years of life in front of it. 98+ WA (June 2010).

1996 Chateau Lafite Rothschild $700 (875) 1 WA100

Tasted three times since bottling, the 1996 Lafite-‐Rothschild is unquestionably this renowned estate's greatest wine. As I indicated last year, only 38% of the crop was deemed grand enough to be put into the final blend, which is atypically high in Cabernet Sauvignon (83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cabernet Franc, 7% Merlot, and 3% Petit Verdot). This massive wine may be the biggest, largest-‐scaled Lafite I have ever tasted. It will require many years to come around, so I suspect all of us past the age of fifty might want to give serious consideration as to whether we should be laying away multiple cases of this wine. It is also the first Lafite-‐Rothschild to be put into a new engraved bottle (designed to prevent fraudulent imitations). The wine exhibits a thick-‐looking, ruby/purple color, and a knock-‐out nose of lead pencil, minerals, flowers, and black currant scents. Extremely powerful and full-‐bodied, with remarkable complexity for such a young wine, this huge Lafite is oozing with extract and richness, yet has managed to preserve its quintessentially elegant personality. This wine is even richer than it was prior to bottling. It should unquestionably last for 40-‐50 years. WA100

1955 Chateau Lafite-‐Rothschild $300 (400) 2 MB*****

It was delicious, and its delicate, slightly medicinal Pauillac bouquet developed gloriously over two hours, half in decanter then in glass. Although losing some colour it can still be surprisingly deep, rich, intense even. Bouquet still very forthcoming and fragrant; dryish, perfect weight, crisp, slightly citrus flavour, good length. A beauty. *****Michael Broadbent

1900 Barton & Guestier Chateau Lafite $3600 (5000) 1 MB***** Michael Broadbent *****

1988 Chateau Haut Brion $196 (315) 1 WA92

A more firmly structured Haut-‐Brion, built somewhat along the lines of the 1996, this dark garnet-‐colored wine is showing notes of licorice, underbrush, compost, truffles, dried herbs, creosote, and sweet black cherries and currants. Medium-‐bodied, rich, but still structured, this wine unfolds incrementally on the palate, showing superb density and a lot of complex Graves elements. It is just beginning to hit its plateau of full maturity. WA92

1961 Chateau Haut Brion $1700 (2400) 1 WA 100

The dark garnet-‐colored 1961 Haut-‐Brion is pure perfection, with gloriously intense aromas of tobacco, cedar, chocolate, minerals, and sweet red and black fruits complemented by smoky wood. This has always been a prodigious effort (it was the debut vintage for Jean Delmas). It is extremely full-‐bodied, with layers of viscous, sweet fruit. This wine is akin to eating candy. Consistently an astonishing wine! -‐-‐100 WA (January 1998).

2000 Chateau Mouton Rothschild $850 (1000) 1 WA96+

Perhaps the most beautiful packaging ever on a Bordeaux bottle, Baroness Philippine de Rothschild literally produced a work of art in the gold-‐engraved bottle of 2000 Mouton Rothschild. Of course, one cant drink the glass, but this is a top-‐flight Mouton Rothschild...A rich, tannic, earthy style, with loads of creme de cassis and floral notes, the final blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Merlot is a full-‐bodied wine with plenty of coffee, earth, chocolatey notes, and still plenty of tannin to resolve. 96+ WA (June 2010).

1995 Chateau Ducru-‐Beaucaillou $100 (135) 1 WA94

This wine is of first-‐growth quality, not only from an intellectual perspective, but in its hedonistic characteristics. More open-‐knit and accessible than the extraordinary 1996, Ducru's 1995 exhibits a saturated ruby/purple color, followed by a knock-‐out nose of blueberry and black raspberry/cassis fruit intertwined with minerals, flowers, and subtle toasty new oak. Like its younger sibling, the wine possesses a sweet, rich mid-‐palate (from extract and ripeness, not sugar), layers of flavor, good delineation and grip, but generally unobtrusive tannin and acidity. It is a classic, compelling example of Ducru-‐Beaucaillou that should not be missed. WA94

1945 Chateau Pontet Canet $250 (360) 2 WA93 The 1945 was magnificent with a stupendous oriental spice bouquet and smashing concentration. -‐WA 93

1990 Chateau Pavie Decesse St.-‐Emilion Grand Cru $50 (65) 3 WA90

The 1990 offers powerful aromas of sweet fruit, minerals, chocolate, and herbs that are followed by a low acid wine with a huge, chewy texture, gobs of tannin, and plenty of extract and depth. This is an exceptionally powerful wine that should prove to be sensational. Anticipated maturity: 1997-‐2010. -‐WA 90


1990 Chateau Cordeillan Bages Pauillac, magnum $140 (165) 1 WS93Beautiful wine. Dark ruby-‐purple color. Gorgeous plum, currant and berry aromas with hints of cream. Full-‐bodied, with well-‐integrated tannins and a long, long, caressing finish. WS93

1983 Chateau Cos d'Estournel $84 (125) 3 WS91Dense and powerful with tobacco, cherry and vanilla aromas and flavors. Full-‐bodied and very firm with a long finish. Needs time; try after 1998. WS91

1982 Chateau Calon Segur $150 (215) 12 WA94+

Like Certan de May, I bought this in both half and 750 ml bottles. Only recently have the half bottles reached full maturity, and the 750 ml remains a massive, backward wine for long-‐term aging. A dense, opaque garnet color is followed by notes of roasted meats, herbs, black currants, incense, and damp earth. Full-‐bodied, still extremely tannic (sweet but noticeable tannins), rich, and backward, where perfectly stored, this 1982 will last for another 50 years. The estate has always compared it to their 1947, which is still a vibrant wine, and the 1982 should be just as profound. Anticipated maturity: 2015-‐2040. WA94+

1996 Chateau Guiraud Sauternes 375ml $28 (40) 1 WA91

One of the stars of the vintage for Sauternes, the 1996 Guiraud offers a sumptuous nose of tangerine fruit intermixed with caramel and buttered corn. The wine displays a deep golden color, and striking flavors of Chinese black tea, marmalade, honey, and citrus. The powerful yet elegant flavors remain in the mouth for a significant period of time. While this wine is traditionally a blend of 65% Semillon and 35% Sauvignon, Xavier Plantey, the estate's manager, told me that there is nearly 45% Sauvignon Blanc in the final blend of the 1996. Anticipated maturity: 2000-‐2025. WA91

2006 Groffier Chambolle-‐Musigny Les Amoureuses 1er Cru $115 (160) 1 BH90-‐92

Here there is a bit more obvious wood spice, mixed espresso and sexy black and blue fruit aromas that merge into rich, full and velvety medium-‐bodied flavors that are concentrated and textured with another dimension of complexity on the admirably long finish that also evidences a trace of toast. BH90-‐92 "Sweet spot Outstanding"

1999 Amiot Gevrey-‐Chambertin Les Combottes 1er Cru $45 (60) 1 BH90+

Subtle and fine, gorgeous red and black fruits, heavily laced with intense berry notes and sappy, rich, sweet, very pinot flavors. This is stylish, and very long and may ultimately show better than my rating. Very classy juice and perhaps just a touch finer than the Ruchots and with finer tannins. It will be interesting to see which one is better over time. BH90+

1990 Louis Roederer Cristal $350 (425) 2 WA97

The 1990 Cristal is a dramatic, sweeping wine endowed with masses of apricots, peaches, flowers and minerals. A large-‐scaled Cristal, the 1990 combines size with clarity and focus in a remarkably complete style that recalls the 1982. The wine remains generous on the palate, with stunning length and a finish that lasts forever. The 1990 Cristal is 62% Pinot Noir, 38% Chardonnay...Anticipated maturity: 2009-‐2023. -‐-‐97 WA (March 2009)

2000 Roederer Cristal Brut $148 (155) 1 WS91This goes for personality and finesse. An assertive, honeyed style, with plenty of citrus flavors. Mature coffee and roasted nut accents are peeking through, with a robust structure and a dried citrus aftertaste. WS91

1975 Dom Perignon $560 (620) 1 TS***

Even at this high level, special wines stand out and 1975 is one. How can Moet cram so much succulent, delicious fruit into one bottle and yet produce a Champagne of incomparable finesse and charm? Absolutely complete, with a creamy, vanilla richness backed up by toasty acidity, this vintage is still in fruit-‐driven mode and will take a long time to build up an extraordinary complexity. *** out of max 3, Tom Stevenson

1990 Dom Perignon $160 (265) 3 WA98

Medium lemon-‐straw colour. Intensely fragrant nose with aromas of jasmine, cinnamon buttered toast, stewed apples and preserved ginger. Concentrated honey-‐nut, warm apple tart and spice flavours fill the mouth giving ample flesh to the firm, fine structure. The bubbles are still remarkably frisky and, in harmony with the crisp backbone of acid, make for a relatively youthful, elegant and exquisitely balanced wine. Very long finish. Drink now to 2015. -‐-‐98 WA (March 2009)

1998 Dom Perignon $124 (155) 1 WA92A stronger vintage than expected, the 1998 Dom Perignon exhibits aromas and flavors of lemon oil, orange rind, and brioche in a medium-‐bodied, zesty, rich, moderately intense style. It is far superior to either the 1993 or 1992. -‐-‐WA 92

1996 Salon Le Mesnil $230 (275) 2 WA97+The 1996 Salon is yet another wine that is maturing splendidly. Once focused to the point of being painfully austere and angular, today the 1996 Salon has begun to soften and fill out. My latest bottles have been rich, generous and totally compelling in every way. -‐-‐WA 97+ (November 2010)

1996 Krug $230 (275) 1 WA98

The 1996 Krug Vintage remains one of the greatest Champagnes ever made. It is also far less expensive than either the Clos du Mesnil or Clos dAmbonnay but equally as delicious. This bottle is stratospheric, with layers of explosive fruit that flow effortlessly to the multi-‐dimensional, captivating finish. It is another eternal Champagne from Krug. -‐-‐WA 98

NV Laurent Perrier Champagne, 1 bottle $23 (25) 1 WA90 This wine was recommended, but no tasting note was given. -‐WA90

2000 Ernest Burn Pinot Blanc Alsace $12 (20) 3 WA90Produced from a blend of 60% Pinot Blanc and 40% Pinot Auxerrois (95% of the vines in each parcel are 40 years old), the spice-‐scented 2000 Pinot Blanc is a rich, opulent wine. Its super-‐ripe, medium-‐bodied, broad personality reveals layers of plums, raisins, and juicy peaches. WA90

2000 Barmes-‐Buecher Herrenweg de Turckheim Riesling $12 (25) 1 WA92

As he did with his Muscat, Francois Barmes crafted the 2000 Riesling Herrenweg de Turckheim from the grapes culled out for the Selection de Grains Nobles cuvee. It boasts an exuberant, mineral and stone-‐dominated nose as well as a powerful, extracted core of highly expressive gravel-‐like flavors. This medium-‐bodied wine has huge depth, an intense in-‐your-‐face character, and is exceptionally long in the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2005-‐2015. WA92

2000 Chateauneuf-‐du-‐Pape La Reine des Bois Mordoree $70 (95) 3 WA97

The flagship wine remains Mordoree's remarkable Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee de la Reine des Bois. The 2000 boasts an inky purple color in addition to a ravishing perfume of wood smoke, creme de cassis, blueberries, plums, figs, and a hint of graphite. Full-‐bodied, with sweet tannin, a layered richness, staggering ripeness, and a finish that lasts for nearly 50 seconds, this monumental Chateauneuf du Pape continues the unbelievable succession of superstar wines that began in 1998. Anticipated maturity: 2004-‐2020. WA97

2000 Chateauneuf-‐du-‐Pape Chaupin Janasse $50 (70) 1 WA94

The 2000 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Chaupin is the most voluptuous, sexy offering in the Janasse portfolio. It's the Brigitte Bardot of Chateauneuf du Pape ... full-‐bodied, rich, and sexy. A sweet, expansive perfume of red and black fruits is followed by a wine of great purity and balance displaying a surprising combination of fat, power, and elegance. Already delicious because of its low acidity as well as its expansive, ripe fruit, it will drink well for 12-‐15 years. Don't miss this one as it may be even more generous and sexy than the 1998. WA94


2000 Chateauneuf-‐du-‐Pape Mon Aieul Usseglio $50 (65) 7 WA95

The profound 2000 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee de Mon Aieul (85% Grenache and the rest equal parts Syrah, Mourvedre, and Cinsault) tips the scales at 15% alcohol. From an old vineyard and cropped at 15 hectoliters per hectare, and aged only in foudre, it boasts a dense purple color in addition to an exquisite nose of violets, minerals, blueberries and blackberries. Pure and concentrated, but atypically tannic, it requires considerable aging as it is one of the vintage's more backward, broodingly powerful efforts. Anticipated maturity: 2006-‐2020. WA95

2003 Chateauneuf-‐du-‐Pape Baron Chateau Fortia $20 (30) 11 WA92?

I have had some stunning bottles of the 2003 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee du Baron, but at other times have had bottles that seem to be slightly less concentrated and more diffuse. I dont know whether there are different bottlings. The finest bottles (and they are superb) may well be the best wines Fortia has made in over 20 years, deep ruby/plum/purple with a gorgeously sweet nose of a spring flower garden interwoven with licorice, blackberry, sweet cherries, and plums bordering on figs. The wine is opulent, medium to full-‐bodied, with silky tannin, heady glycerin, plenty of richness and length, and a voluptuous finish. When it is not at its best, it seems to lack a mid-‐palate, but best bottles represent potentially the finest Fortia made in many years. The top bottles should drink well for 10-‐12 years. WA92?

1998 Chateauneuf-‐du-‐Pape VV la Vieille Julienne $75 (100) 3 WA92

The 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes actually showed better than the Reserve, which normally doesnt make sense. There are no oxidative issues with this wine. It has a dark plum/ruby color with no lightening at the edge, and exhibits sweet black raspberry, blackberry, charcoal and creosote notes, with some garrigue, pepper, and meat juices. WA92

1999 Chateauneuf-‐du-‐Pape Les Galets Blonds Lesec $34 (45) 4 WA91

The finest Chateauneuf du Pape is Les Galets Blonds, an old vine cuvee produced from 93% Grenache and 7% Syrah from the famed La Crau sector of Chateauneuf du Pape. Aged in both tank and old wood foudre, there are 600 cases of the exceptional 1999 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Galets Blonds, an impressive effort tipping the scales at a whopping 15.7% alcohol (none of which is detectable in either the aromatics or flavors). Its deep ruby/purple color is followed by a sweet nose of jammy black fruits intermixed with mineral, fruit cake, balsam, and herb scents. This dense, unctuously-‐textured, layered Chateauneuf can be drunk now as well as over the next 12-‐15 years. WA91

2000 Chateauneuf-‐du-‐Pape Noble Revelation Panisse $40 (50) 5 WA95

The 2000 Chateauneuf du Pape Noble Revelation was, in fact, a revelation. A dense purple-‐colored wine, it possesses terrific, pure black cherry and creme de cassis fruit with hints of graphite, smoke, and vanilla in the background. Full-‐bodied, with magnificent power, purity, and glycerin, this Chateauneuf cuts a broad swath across the palate with no hard edges. Nevertheless, there is plenty of tannin lurking underneath the huge, viscous texture. This deep wine displays tremendous potential. Anticipated maturity: 2005-‐2016. WA95

2001 Chateauneuf-‐du-‐Pape Les Origines Grand Veneur $28 (40) 5 WA94

The 2001 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Les Origines exhibits a saturated ruby/purple color as well as glorious aromas of acacia flowers, blackberries, licorice, chocolate, and kirsch liqueur. With fabulous richness and purity, medium to full body, undeniable elegance for its size, and a long, textured, multidimensional finish, it is the finest Les Origines Alain Jaume has yet produced. Anticipated maturity: 2006-‐2016. WA94

2001 Cotes de Rhone Villages Galets les Aphillanthes $16 (25) 2 WA91

The 2001 Cuvee des Galets (a blend of 60% Grenache, 20% Mourvedre, and 20% Syrah) boasts a dense inky/purple color in addition to sumptuous aromas of freshly ground pepper, blackberry liqueur, and lavender. Ripe, full-‐bodied, sweet, rich flavors caress the palate with no hard edges. This glorious, dry, substantial red can be drunk now as well as over the next 6-‐8 years. As evidenced by these tasting notes as well as those from the 2000s and 1999s, this is an extraordinary offering, bottled without fining or filtration. It is among the most exciting wines being produced from any of the Cotes du Rhone appellations. This estate, located in the village of Travaillan, and run by perfectionist Daniel Boulle, has quickly emerged as one of the most serious Cotes du Rhone producers. This offering is an ageworthy, super-‐concentrated example of what can be accomplished by a passionate, highly committed producer. WA91

1999 Sassicaia $100 (150) 6 WS92Complex aromas of minerals, berries, tobacco and shells. Full-‐bodied, with well-‐integrated tannins and a succulent, refined aftertaste. A pretty Sass. Best after 2004. WS92

1988 Gaja Barbaresco Costa Russi $145 (215) 2 WS95Fabulous wine, especially for the vintage. Solid, thick and youthful. Aromas of plum, flowers and licorice. Full-‐bodied, with silky, fine tannins and a long, long finish. WS95

1989 Gaja Barolo Sperss $173 ($240) 2 WS96Complex and fascinating, offering all sorts of floral, earthy overtones to the solid core of black cherry, blackberry and anise flavors. An intense wine that shows many facets, including a welcome whiff of vanilla and toast on the aftertaste. WS96, Wine Spectator Top 100 of 1993, Rank 2

1997 San Giusto a Rentennano Percarlo $85 (110) 2 WA97

The 1997 Percarlo impresses for its pure seduction. It is also impossibly young. Dark red cherries, flowers and mint wrap around the palate in this sensual, inviting wine. In keeping with the qualities of the warm year, the 1997 emphasizes textural depth and richness rather then the more aromatic, firm style that defines cooler years such as 1996. The 1997 is drop dead gorgeous today. I imagine the 1997 will age faster than the 1996, but that shouldnt be much of a problem given the wines exceptional balance. Layers of fruit built to the huge, textured finish. This is a decidedly flashy wine. I have always had a soft spot for the 1997. This bottle more than exceeded my expectations. WA97

1986 Fattoria Viticcio Prunaio Toscana IGT $40 (60) 2 WS92

A Sangiovese blend with lots of complexity on a tight, elegant frame. Shows anise and smoke aromas and cherry, strawberry and blackberry flavors wrapped in a veil of tannin that will need until 1993 to '95 to soften. Offers plenty of style and finesse. WS92, Wine Spectator Top 100 of 1990, Rank 62

2004 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Bussia Colonnello $80 (115) 1 WA94

2004 Tedeschi Capitel Monte Olmi Amarone della Valpolicella $50 (68) 24 WA92

The 2004 Amarone della Valpolicella Capitel Monte Olmi oozes from the glass in a sumptuous, expression of smoke, tar, black cherries, spices and toasted oak. This massive, backward Amarone possesses tremendous reserves of power, which gradually come to life as the wine gains volume and breadth in the glass. The tannins remain imposing and in need of bottle age to soften. Not for the timid, the Amarone della Valpolicella Capitel Monte Olmi offers outstanding quality in a full-‐throttle style. Anticipated maturity: 2010-‐2020. -‐-‐WA 92

1998 Romito del Romitorio Castello Romitorio $24 (35) 11 WA90This is a super, super Tuscan. Dark ruby for a rosso, with loads of bright fruit, spice and mineral aromas. Medium-‐ to full-‐bodied, with fine tannins and a long, fruity finish. WA90


2003 Fattoria Galardi Terra di Lavoro $40 (55) 8 WA94

Galardi did a fabulous job with the 2003 Terra di Lavoro in this torrid, challenging vintage. This is a dark, muscular Terra di Lavoro loaded with imposing dark fruit wrapped around a frame of sheer muscle. The 2003 turns more elegant in the glass as the aromatics reluctantly begin to emerge, but the hard 2003 tannins never fully soften. Anticipated maturity: 2013-‐2028. Terra di Lavoro, first produced in 1994, has quickly established itself as one of Italys cult wines. I tasted all of these vintages with proprietors Arturo and Dora Celentano during their first visit to the US. The Celentanos have a huge passion for food and wine, and that exuberance comes through loud and clear in these fabulous wines. Terra di Lavoro is 80% Aglianico and 20% Piedirosso from vines planted by consulting oenologist Riccardo Cotarella beginning in 1991. The fruit is harvested according to ripeness rather than strictly by variety, which means that Aglianico and Piedirosso are sometimes picked and vinified together. After the alcoholic fermentation, the wines are racked into French oak where they remain on their lees for several months. Cotarella describes Aglianico as a hard grape to take through malolactic fermentation. He therefore believes it is essential for the final blend to be made before the wines go into malo. The final blend is assembled and undergoes what is usually a very slow malo, in steel for 80-‐90% of the wine, prior to being moved back into oak. There is little question that malolactic fermentation in stainless steel contributes significant freshness and aging potential to this heroic southern Italian wine. WA94

2001 Muga Aro $95 (130) 1 WA98The 2001 Aro has begun to unwind slightly but is still in the early stages of its development. It is a complete wine that will profit from another 10-‐15 years of cellaring and which should easily achieve a 40 year lifespan. WA98

2003 Bodegas Luan Equis Vinas Viejas $12 (25) 1 WA90

A custom cuvee assembled by importer Eric Solomon, this blend of 40% Bobal, 20% Merlot, and equal parts Syrah, Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Tempranillo exhibits a dense ruby/purple color, full-‐bodied, inky, concentrated, black fruit flavors, wonderful sweetness and purity, and a heady, long finish. A big, stylish red made on the border of Yecla and La Mancha, it is undeniably a fabulous value. -‐WA90

2001 Castano Solanera Monastrell $5 (10) 8 WA93

There are 8,500 cases of the unfined, unfiltered, prodigious 2001 Solanera, a blend of 70% ungrafted, old vine Monastrell, and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon. This is a custom cuvee specifically bottled for the American importer, Eric Solomon. It spent nearly a year in French oak, 20% of which was new. Its opaque, inky purple color is followed by glorious aromas of blue and blackberries intermixed with graphite, minerals, smoke, and scorched earth. It is splendidly concentrated and full-‐bodied, with no hard edges. This extraordinary wine can be drunk now, and over the next 6-‐8 years. This is a cutting edge effort from one of Spain's backwater, but soon to be famous appellations. WA93

2002 Pazo de Senorans Albarino Rias Baixas $10 (15) 3 WA90

An outstanding effort in a challenging vintage, this 2002 Albarinos knock-‐out aromatics are reminiscent of a top-‐class Condrieu from Frances Rhone Valley. Scents of white peaches, apricot jam, and minerals jump from the glass of this textured, medium-‐bodied, layered, personality-‐filled, beautifully fruited, dry Spanish white. WA90

2000 Porto Croft $32 (50) 2 WA90

A striking, individualistic nose of spring flowers, blackberries, blueberries, and lead pencil shavings emerges from this saturated purple-‐colored 2000. Evolved yet expansive, sweet, and generous, it admirably conceals moderately high tannins under a wealth of fruit and glycerin. The aromatic profile and attack merit a score in the mid-‐nineties, but the finish is short, thus lowering the overall rating. My instincts suggest there is more to this port than it revealed the days I tasted it. Anticipated maturity: 2007-‐2025? WA90

2000 Grahams Vintage Port 375ml $28 (40) 9 WA94

Grapy, unformed, black raspberry liqueur and licorice-‐infused cassis notes leap from the glass of this opaque purple-‐colored wine. Sweet, plush, rich, and accessible, it is a forward, lush, concentrated effort that should drink well for two decades. While not one of Graham's most profound ports, it should evolve rapidly, providing immense crowd appeal. WA94

1992 Taylor Port $120 (145) 1 WA100

Taylor's 1992 Vintage Port is unquestionably the greatest young port I have ever tasted. It represents the essence of what vintage port can achieve. The color is an opaque black/purple, and the nose offers up fabulously intense aromas of minerals, cassis, blackberries, licorice, and spices, as well as extraordinary purity and penetration. Yet this is still an unformed and infantile wine. If Chateau Latour made a late-‐harvest Cabernet Sauvignon, I suspect it might smell like this. In the mouth, the wine is out of this world, displaying layer upon layer of concentrated black fruits backed by well-‐integrated tannin and structure. This is a massive, magnificently rich, full-‐bodied port that will be far more flattering in its youth than were such Taylors as the 1983, 1977, or 1970. It possesses awesome fruit, marvelous intensity, and lavish opulence, all brilliantly well-‐delineated by the wine's formidable structure. This monumental 30-‐50 year port is a must purchase for port aficionados! WA100

1965 JM da Fonseca Moscatel de Setubal Superior 500ml $75 (105) 1 WS94This full-‐bodied, sweet dessert wine, with its lovely amber color, is rich and voluptuous, with beautiful texture, loads of maple, honey and spice flavors, caramel notes that linger on the finish, and a nice, smoky, oxidized quality overall. It's balanced, and elegant, too. Drink now. WS94

1997 Yalumba Botrytis Blend 375ml $20 (30) 2 WS91Sweet, spicy and silky, with generous layers of fig, honey, dried pear and guava swirling through the polished finish. Showing a nice balance of sweetness and acidity, this Aussie sweetie should age beautifully. WS91

1997 Charles Cimicky Red Blend, 8 bottles $17 (30) 8 WA90

Cimicky's proprietary offering, the 1997 The Red Blend (58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, and 20% Cabernet Franc), is a thick, rich, full-‐bodied, fleshy, dry red with abundant quantities of black fruits intermixed with spicy new oak. Concentrated, with low acidity, sweet tannin, and no hard edges, this mouth-‐filling big red should drink well for 8-‐10 years. WA90

1997 Joseph Phelps Insigna $140 (175) 2 WA96

The prodigious 1997 Insignia (83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, and 3% Petit-‐Verdot) lives up to its pre-‐bottling promise. Tasted on three separate occasions, every bottle has hit the bull's eye. The color is a saturated thick-‐looking blue/purple. The nose offers up explosive aromas of jammy black fruits, licorice, Asian spices, vanillin, and cedar. Full-‐bodied as well as exceptionally pure and impressively endowed, this blockbuster yet surprisingly elegant wine cuts a brilliant swath across the palate. A seamless effort with beautifully integrated acidity, sweet tannin, and alcohol, it is still an infant, but can be drunk with considerable pleasure. Anticipated maturity: now-‐2025. WA96

1995 Shafer Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon $180 (250) 3 WA99

The 1995 Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select possesses lots of fatness in the mid-‐palate. There is plenty of tannin in this full-‐bodied, rich effort. It is remarkable how the finest California Cabernets combine extraordinary power and richness with balance and elegance. A stupendous wine, it is worth a special effort to obtain. Anticipated maturity: 2003-‐2030. WA99

1986 Opus One $160 (300) 3 WS94Bordeaux-‐like in structure, this is an impressive showing. Firm tannins wrap around the currant, black cherry, anise, spice and cedar notes. Long, persistent finish. WS94


1985 Dominus $84 (150) 1 WA91

The 1985 Dominus stands out for its smoky, ripe cassis, earthy nose, sweet, full-‐bodied, concentrated flavors, and opulently long, chewy finish. It was the most forward, precocious example of this wine I have yet tasted. Most recent tastings have suggested the wine needed further aging. This bottling exhibited the plush, velvety texture that proprietor Christian Moueix achieves in top Pomerol vintages. WA91

1996 Dunn Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain $62 (80) 2 WA96

The 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain possesses a black/blue/purple color, and a texture of unctuosity and thickness. Greatness is suggested by a wonderfully sweet mid-‐section, gorgeous purity, and this humongous wine's overall symmetry. It also possesses sumptuous layers of concentration, remarkably sweet tannin, low acidity, and a 40+ second finish. WA96

1993 Grace Family Cabernet Sauvignon $90 (125) 1 WA91

The 1993 Cabernet Sauvignon is a top-‐flight example of this high class vintage. Deep purple-‐colored, with well-‐integrated, spicy, toasty oak competing with gobs of sweet blackcurrant fruit and spice, this full-‐bodied, well-‐endowed, concentrated Cabernet is powerful yet well-‐balanced. It needs another 2-‐3 years of cellaring to resolve some tannin, but it will easily last 15-‐20 years. These limited production gems certainly merit the hyperbole and accolades they receive. This wine is only available via the winery's mailing list, and I am sure there are more potential suitors than wine to be sold. Current production has dwindled, largely because much of the vineyard is in the process of being replanted due to the phylloxera scourge. For example, in 1995 only the upper block of the vineyard was in production. Only 75 cases will emerge from this vintage, further ensuring a preposterously high price. In 1994 there are 175 cases. These beautifully made wines are among the finest Cabernets in California. I rarely report on them because they are, for all intents and purposes, unobtainable. Yet there is no doubting the high quality aspirations of the owner, and the skills exhibited by winemaking consultant Heidi Barrett in the production, aging, and bottling of these 100% Cabernet Sauvignon wines. WA91

1985 Heitz Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon Martha's Vineyard $160 (300) 1 WA94

In some tastings this wine has been controversial because it was alleged to have a damp, woody, musty character. In the March tasting (my seventh look at this brilliant wine), I found it once again to be clean and hardly controversial -‐ unless explosive richness and ripeness, as well as gobs of sweet fruit presented in a full-‐bodied, powerful style are objectionable. The wine was more developed and open than I expected. The mint/eucalyptus character, which can be extremely intense in the Martha's Vineyard cuvee, was presented in a subtle fashion. Expansive and chewy, with superb ripe fruit and concentration. WA94

1997 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon $100 (140) 6 WA98

Opaque purple-‐colored with a dense, chewy, full-‐bodied personality, it displays abundant cassis, mineral, and earth notes. This brilliantly made, super-‐concentrated, pure, blockbuster possesses sweet tannin as well as a terrific finish. Having added additional weight since last year, this sumptuous, multilayered, profoundly concentrated Cabernet contains 14% alcohol. It is a candidate for 25-‐30 years of longevity. WA98

1998 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon $65 (90) 8 WA93

It possesses an opaque ruby/purple color, a gorgeous perfume of loamy soil, new saddle leather, chocolate, and black cherry and black currant fruit, full body, and ripe tannin in the finish. As it sits in the glass, notes of cedar and spice box also emerge. Although more evolved than most Montelena Cabernets are at age 4, there is no doubting that it will still provide considerable pleasure at age 15 or 16. Kudos to the Barretts for producing this impressive 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon, one of the vintage's few stars. WA93

1997 Staglin Family Cabernet Sauvignon $72 (105) 1 WA90The 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon offers ripe cassis, new oak, tobacco, and spice box aromas and flavors. Rich, structured, moderately tannic, and long, it needs 2-‐3 years of cellaring, but should keep well for two decades. WA90

1997 La Sirena Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley $65 (90) 4 WA92

The brilliant, opaque purple-‐colored 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon boast sumptuous levels of black currant fruit intermixed with smoke, minerals, and toasty oak. Pure and full-‐bodied, with additional layers of extract, richness, and flavor dimension, this intense, well-‐balanced, seamless classic can be drunk now, yet promises to age well for 20-‐25 years. WA92

1998 Regusci Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap $40 (60) 1 WS91A stylish, nuanced wine. Intense, complex and beautifully balanced, with silky violet, currant, cherry and mineral flavors sleekly integrated with firm, ripe tannins and toasty oak. WS91

2006 Buccella Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley $85 (120) 1 WA95

The 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, a candidate for Cabernet of the vintage, reveals a gorgeous perfume of chocolate, black raspberries, flowers, ink, and graphite, followed by a full-‐bodied, textured, superbly concentrated wine with terrific purity as well as density. Drink this outstanding 2006 over the next 15-‐20 years. Buccella, under the guidance of well-‐known winemaking consultant Celia Masyczek has fashioned brilliant Cabernet Sauvignons in both 2006 and 2007. The 2007s are slightly more powerful, backward wines (alcohol levels range from the upper 14% to low 15%), but they have enough structure as well as sensational concentration and depth to support the tannins. WA95

1996 Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley $50 (70) 2 WA92

The dark ruby-‐colored 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley exhibits a pronounced smoky, espresso bean, and kirsch-‐scented nose. Round, dense, rich, full-‐bodied, and open-‐knit, its low acid flavors are undeniably appealing. Black olives make an appearance in the wine's aromatics as it sits in the glass. WA92

1997 Sterling Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve $40 (60) 1 WS93Another winner from the '97 vintage, this is firm and tight, concentrated and compact, with detailed currant, black cherry, plum and spicy, toasty oak. Holds its focus, and picks up a pretty mocha on the aftertaste. WS93

1997 Flora Springs Trilogy $40 (60) 1 WA97

The outstanding 1997 Trilogy Proprietary Red Wine offers a dark ruby/purple color, and super-‐expressive aromatics consisting of black fruits, licorice, blueberries, and floral scents. With a fine tannic under-‐pinning, this elegant yet impressively rich, well-‐endowed, balanced effort is already approachable, and promises to evolve effortlessly for 15-‐18 years. WA97

2002 Elyse Cabernet Sauvignon Morisoli $40 (60) 1 WA93

The 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Morisoli Vineyard (96% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Petit Verdot) reveals an inky/purple color along with a youthful blueberry, raspberry and black currant-‐scented nose intermixed with charcoal, vanillin, forest floor and ink notes. This impressively constituted, full-‐bodied, extremely youthful 2002 will benefit from another 3-‐5 years of cellaring. It will keep for 15 or more years thereafter.... brilliant offerings from this somewhat under-‐the-‐radar, high quality producer. WA93


2005 Roy Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley $50 (70) 1 WA94

The bottled 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon (90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Petit Verdot) is even better than the barrel samples tasted last year. Surprisingly soft, but complex, it offers notes of damp earth, black currants, incense, cedar, and spice. Ripe and medium to full-‐bodied with excellent fruit purity, and charming texture as well as length, it can be consumed now, although its equilibrium and balance suggest it will last for two decades. This 17-‐acre Soda Canyon site originally planted by Helen Turley and John Wetlaufer has tight 3 x 6 spacing, and produces two wines, a Cabernet Sauvignon and an estate proprietary blend. Proprietors Shirley and Charles Roy have demonstrated courage as well as passion in attempting to craft some of the finest wines to emerge from this area of Napa. Production is slightly over 2,500 cases in an abundant vintage, and winemaker Philippe Melka brings a French savoir-‐faire to Napa Valleys gorgeous fruit. WA94

1992 Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon Knights Valley $23 (35) 4 WA 90

The Knight's Valley Cabernet Sauvignon has been a terrific bargain over recent years. The 1992 may merit an outstanding rating after another year or two of age. This cuvee, which was excellent in both 1990 and 1991 has hit new heights in 1992. It offers an impressively saturated dark ruby/purple color, and wonderfully ripe cassis fruit intermingled with scents of jammy cherries, spices and herbs. Rich, deep, and supple. -‐WA 90

1999 Kendall Jackson Great Estates Cabernet Sauvignon $20 (35) 11 WA90

This opaque purple-‐colored Cabernet spent 23 months in primarily French oak, and had a whopping 47 days of skin contact. It is no shy wine at 14.5% alcohol, exhibiting aromas of vanilla, black currants, cedar, and loamy soil in addition to loads of concentrated fruit. This full-‐bodied and impeccably-‐balanced offering will be at its finest between 2006-‐2015. WA90

1999 Rosenblum Zinfandel Monte Rosso Vineyard $16 (28) 3 WA92

The dark ruby/purple-‐colored 1999 Zinfandel Monte Rosso Vineyard (from a vineyard planted 1,400 feet above Sonoma Valley) is a blend of 85% Zinfandel, 8% Petite Sirah, and 7% unidentified field varietals. At 14.6% alcohol, it is no wimpish wine. Provocative notes of road tar, deep, concentrated, ripe black fruits, licorice, and spice are followed by a rich, full-‐bodied, deep wine with low acidity as well as supple tannin. This multidimensional Zinfandel cascades over the palate with no hard edges. Drink this dazzling 1999 over its first 5-‐6 years of life, although I suspect it will age well for a decade. WA92

2001 Rosenblum Zinfandel Monte Rosso Vineyard $15 (25) 12 WA92The blockbuster, dense, chewy, earthy 2001 Zinfandel Monte Rosso Vineyard (15.2% alcohol) exhibits aromas of forest floor, underbrush, and briery cherries and raspberries. This stacked and packed, full-‐bodied, pure, deep 2001 is a classic effort from this well-‐known vineyard. WA92

2001 Rosenblum Zinfandel Monte Rosso Vineyard $15 (25) 5 WA92The blockbuster, dense, chewy, earthy 2001 Zinfandel Monte Rosso Vineyard (15.2% alcohol) exhibits aromas of forest floor, underbrush, and briery cherries and raspberries. This stacked and packed, full-‐bodied, pure, deep 2001 is a classic effort from this well-‐known vineyard. WA92

2001 Rosenblum Zinfandel Harris Kratka Vineyard $16 (25) 4 WA91The deep purple-‐colored 2001 Zinfandel Harris-‐Kratka Vineyard exhibits a big bouquet of figs, plums, scorched earth, cherries, and currants. Full-‐flavored, fleshy, gorgeously pure as well as succulent, this is a delicious, up-‐front Zinfandel. WA91

1997 Kendall Jackson Great Estates Cabernet Sauvignon $20 (30) 1 WA90An outstanding effort, the 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon Great Estates Napa (5,000 cases) exhibits copious quantities of pure black currant fruit intermixed with cedar, smoke, and spice box. It is full-‐bodied, opulent, rich. WA90

1984 Inglenook Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Cask, magnum $80 (105) 2 WS90Ripe and exotic, with lots of coffee, cedar and spice overtones to the gentle core of very ripe cherry and raspberry. A stylish wine with plenty of tannin to support it, but the dominant characteristics are fruit and suppleness. -‐WS 90

1985 Inglenook Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Reunion, magnum $60 (80) 1 WS91 Tight and a bit tough, with well-‐focused cherry and plum flavors clamped tightly behind firm tannins and pronounced oak character. -‐WS 911983 Kenwood Cabernet Sauvignon Artists Series $25 (35) 1 WS92 WS92

1989 Kenwood Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma $20 (25) 1 WS91Firm, focused and flavorful, offering distinctive spice and mint-‐tinged Cabernet characteristics, lots of currant and plum flavors and more richness, depth and concentration than most '89s. WS91

1985 Kenwood Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma $30 (40) 1 WS91A big, brawny style that's tight, closed and packed with rich, ripe plum, currant and black cherry flavors and a good dose of tannin and oak on the finish. WS91

1990 Kenwood Cabernet Sauvignon Jack London Vineyards $30 (35) 1 WA90

Black/purple in color, this wine possesses a controversial nose of loamy, earthy scents, black truffles, and rich cassis. Phenomenally extracted and rich, as well as loaded with tannin, this full-‐bodied, mammothly-‐constituted wine is long, rich, and in need of 5-‐7 years of cellaring. A huge Cabernet Sauvignon, it should keep for at least 20 or more years. -‐WA 90

1986 Inglenook Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Cask $30 (55) 1 WS91Spicy, generous and complex, with sharply focused currant, plum and nutmeg flavors that zing right through the long finish. A wine with rambunctious flavors that become polished and lively on the finish. Should be at its best after 1996.

1985 Cakebread Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley $66 (50) 1 WS90 Massively concentrated, with the powerful cassis fruit battling it out with leathery wood, not very tannic, however, but very young and raw.

2002 Sean Thackrey Orion $70 (80) 4 WA96-‐100

A riveting example of Syrah is the 2002 Orion. It boasts a black/purple color with more mint and blackberry notes intermixed with exotic floral characteristics. With great intensity, full body, multiple dimensions, and superb purity as well as length, this blockbuster is incredibly well-‐balanced/harmonious. It should drink reasonably well young, yet keep for 12-‐15 years. WA96-‐100

1997 Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon $50 (75) 2 WS91Starts out lean and austere, with a meaty edge to the crisp anise, cherry and currant notes, finishing with an earthy edge and a touch of vanilla bean. WS91

1997 BV Georges de Latour Private Reserve Cab Sauv $60 (85) 1 WA90

A strong effort from Beaulieu, the 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve boasts a dense ruby/purple color in addition to a beautifully sweet nose of spicy oak intermixed with black cherries and currants. Full-‐bodied, rich, pure, and concentrated, it combines restraint and elegance with power and muscle. It will age well for two decades. While Beaulieu is no longer one of California's cutting edge wineries, this is classic stuff. WA90


Over the last several years this wine has proven increasingly impressive. Given all the hoopla, some of it unjustifiable, over more recent vintages, it seems to me that serious connoisseurs might want to be scouring the marketplace for quantities of this vintage. Certainly it is the richest and most opulent of any of the Beaulieu Private Reserves made thus far in the 1980s. The huge nose of exotic spices, sweet red and black fruits, vanillin, and toast, is followed by an equally impressive, dense, chewy, highly extracted wine with plenty of soft tannins, a beautiful, expansive, multi-‐dimensional flavor profile, and a splendid finish. Drinkable now, this wine is capable of lasting at least another 15-‐20 years. Might this be another 1970 in the making? WA94



At present, the 1976 is undoubtedly the greatest B.V. Private Reserve made in the last 30 years. The wine, which has been spectacular from its release, continues to be the richest, most exotic of all the B.V. Private Reserves I have tasted. Did the monumental 1951 resemble this wine at a similar age? The 1976 is full-‐bodied, with a huge, intoxicating perfume of sweet black and red fruits, earth, Asian spices, roasted herbs, and toasty oak. This massive, full-‐bodied, super-‐concentrated, fragrant, alcoholic wine is close to full maturity. It is the quintessential example of the B.V. Private Reserve style -‐ the likes of which has not been made since. It should continue to drink well for another 20 years. WA95

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