TOURIST 'December 2012

An IntervIew wIth red PAndA exPert

of the

rotterdAm Zoo

Top Best Places for Visit 2012

The Best CAke In vIennA

tofIno

BrItIsh ColumBIA world Best surf town

CONTENTS

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Many people know I’m a hotel nut, i.e. someone who’s completely obsessed with ho-tels and the way they make you feel (Exhibit A: I have an Excel spreadsheet of 2,600 hotels around the world that I want to visit in my lifetime). Granted, it’s not the most no-ble passion, but it’s mine.

I’m a firm believer that a hotel is only as good as the people who work there and give it life. This time of year, I find myself stalking hotel lobbies to admire the decora-tions. I’m particularly drawn to the ones with larger-than-life gingerbread displays. But I’m not as interested in the biggest, best, and brightest as I am in the chefs behind the or-nate houses. They’re the ones who spend months dreaming up new ways of making guests feel that holiday magic when

they step through the door.When I talked to chefs

who have a hand in creat-ing these fabulous displays, one thing became clear: Eve-rything has to be edible. You never know when a curious toddler or famished adult is going to break off a piece of the house.

Margarita Chornkondratenko

LETTER OF CHIEF EDITOR

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TOURIST ‘DECEMBER 2012

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AN INTERVIEW with

RED PANDA EXPERT DR. ANGELA GLATSTON

of the

ROTTERDAM ZOO

Just last week some red panda (Ailu-rus spp.) cubs debuted at the Perth Zoo and they were a hit. As far as I know they have always drawn crowds, but their voguishness is relative.

In contemporary history the popu-larity of the vibrantly-colored red panda may have been suppressed by common nomenclature. Sharing its colloquial name with the giant panda–a species of bear that also happens to subsist almost exclusively on bamboo–has placed the red panda at a disadvantage from a public relations standpoint, at least as far as scientists are concerned. The red panda is quite popular among zoo visi-tors and they are common in zoos.

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TOURIST ‘DECEMBER 2012

Jordan: I remember as keeper that zoos were either phasing out a sub-species of red panda, or that con-servation geneticists were revisit-ing their taxonomy?

Angela: In the early days of the un-official global breeding of the red panda we decided to try to per-suade the different regional breed-ing programmes (EEP/SSP/ASMP, etc.) to concentrate on one of the two subspecies. In Europe we said we would work with fulgens, and Japan would focus on styani. In the US you would keep both sus-bspecies, so really you should not have met this discussion in your zoo. However I suspect that dif-ferent SSP coordinators may have had their different preferences for subspecies. They may have tried phasing one or other in or out, but I am not sure about this. In my red panda book, Colin Groves consid-ers fulgens and styani to be diag-nosably distinct evolutionary units. Which I guess means we should treat them as separate species.

J: Are red panda as easy to propa-gate in zoos as the popular litera-ture suggests?

A: Yes and no. They are not that difficult to breed if you [manage] them right–keeping them in pairs, in a quiet location, with lots of nest boxes and shade and trees. Avoid disturbing mothers and cubs too much, and take care at weaning time. The problem is few zoos do all of these things. As a result there are many zoos which don’t success-fully breed their animals, or their dams neglect or kill their young. So no the population is not grow-ing particularly well and is not as secure or stable as we might think.

J: Do they suffer from a PR prob-lem?

A: Again, yes and no. Once people actually see them they are hooked. a few cute pictures and videos can win a lot of hearts. However, many PR departments may need to be convinced of this. And the name doesn’t help as people continue ex-pecting to see a small version of the giant panda.

J: What are the threats red pandas face in the wild?

A: Habitat loss, habitat fragmenta-tion and further fragmentation of

the fragments. Disturbance and attacks by dogs which move with herders and their livestock into red panda habitat, and to a lesser extent poaching. One rather wor-rying recent development is the apparent appearance of red pandas (on the menu) in some restaurants in China. I suspect the arrival of domestic dogs in red panda habitat brings with it the very real threat of canine distemper to which red pandas are very susceptible.

J: What can people do to help con-serve this species?

A: This is a difficult one–what can the individual do. There is nothing we purchase which is destroying their habitat. It might be argued that increased trekking vacations put pressure on firewood collec-tion and result in habitat loss. In comparison with the other causes of habitat loss this, firewood col-lection, is relatively limited. The only think I guess is to show you care which will put pressure on lo-cal governments. People can give money to support conservation initiatives such as the Red Panda Network’s work. (Source: National Georgaphic Magazine)

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Photo by Christian Heeb, laif/Redux Photo by Christian Heeb, laif/Redux

Cape BretonNova Scotia’s treasured island

When to Go: May-October; Celtic Colours annual international music and cultural fes-tival.

Where to Stay: Family-owned Highland Heights Inn combines homey rooms and home-cooked meals (try the traditional Nova Scotia fish cakes) with breathtaking views of the Bras d’Or Lakes. Spend a day immersed in Gaelic culture next door at the 40-acre Highland Village living history museum.

How to Get Around: Drive the Cabot Trail loop counterclockwise beginning in Baddeck.

Where to Eat or Drink: Rusty Anchor Res-taurant in Pleasant Bay serves up fresh sea-food chowder, fish and chips, and some of the Cabot Trail’s best lobster rolls (pure lump meat and a bit of butter). Watch the ocean, and maybe even a whale, from the outdoor patio. Open May-October.

Fun Fact: Most of Nova Scotia’s endangered Canada lynx live in Cape Breton Highlands National Park. The mostly nocturnal cat is built for stealth. Its fur ear tufts act as hear-ing aids and its large, furry feet function as snowshoes.

GrenadaCaribbean with a smile

When to Go: Dry season, January-May.

Where to Stay: All 12 rooms at La Sagesse Nature Centre, a 25-minute drive from St. George’s, are steps from the intimate resort’s palm-shaded beach. Stay in the former plan-tation’s original manor house or a duplex suite, cottage, or low-slung oceanfront guest-house. The beachside restaurant (open to the public) serves breakfast, lunch, dinner, and its signature chocolate mousse (prepared with local organic chocolate) seven days a week.

How to Get Around: For island-wide touring, rent a car at the airport. Public minivan routes connect St. George’s to Grand Anse Beach and the island’s other major cities. Taxi ser-vice is readily available from the airport. Sev-eral local tour operators offer group and pri-vate transportation and sightseeing options.

Where to Eat or Drink: The open-air res-taurant at Belmont Estate serves a three-course lunch buffet spotlighting home-grown spices, fruits, and vegetables. Lunch is served Sunday-Friday beginning at noon.

Fun Fact: According to legend, Grenada owes its Isle of Spice status to an East Indies doctor who brought the first nutmeg trees to the is-land in the 1830s. The tree produces the island’s principal export crops—nutmeg and mace.

BodøNorway’s gateway

to the ArcticWhen to Go: Early June-early July for the midnight sun; September-April for northern lights.

Where to Stay: The waterfront Rica Hotel Bodø and newly renovated Clarion Collec-tion Hotel Grand Bodø (breakfast and a light evening buffet included) are conveniently lo-cated near shops, restaurants, and museums.

How to Get Around: In town, walk (airport is less than a mile from the city center) or take the local bus. Hop a fast ferry for island and coastal day trips. Take the Nordland Railway south to Trondheim, or a bus for destinations north.

Where to Eat or Drink: Try harborside Bryg-gerikaia for grilled tørrfisk (cod), fish soup, and fresh prawns. For drinks, panoramic mountain and sea views are included at the Radisson Blu Hotel’s Top 13 Rooftop Bar.

Fun Fact: Norway is home to Europe’s largest breeding population of white-tailed eagles, an estimated 3,500 to 4,000 pairs. The mas-sive raptor (Europe’s biggest) has eight tal-ons, a wingspan of over eight feet, and can live 20 to 25 years.

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Photo by Karl Lehmann, Getty Images Photo by Justin Guariglia, National Geographic Photo by S. Falke, laif/Redux

BodøNorway’s gateway

to the ArcticWhen to Go: Early June-early July for the midnight sun; September-April for northern lights.

Where to Stay: The waterfront Rica Hotel Bodø and newly renovated Clarion Collec-tion Hotel Grand Bodø (breakfast and a light evening buffet included) are conveniently lo-cated near shops, restaurants, and museums.

How to Get Around: In town, walk (airport is less than a mile from the city center) or take the local bus. Hop a fast ferry for island and coastal day trips. Take the Nordland Railway south to Trondheim, or a bus for destinations north.

Where to Eat or Drink: Try harborside Bryg-gerikaia for grilled tørrfisk (cod), fish soup, and fresh prawns. For drinks, panoramic mountain and sea views are included at the Radisson Blu Hotel’s Top 13 Rooftop Bar.

Fun Fact: Norway is home to Europe’s largest breeding population of white-tailed eagles, an estimated 3,500 to 4,000 pairs. The mas-sive raptor (Europe’s biggest) has eight tal-ons, a wingspan of over eight feet, and can live 20 to 25 years.

KyotoMeditation in Japan

When to Go: Hanami (cherry blossom view-ing) season typically is late March through mid-April.

Where to Stay: The 535-room Hotel Granvia Kyoto is conveniently located above the Japan Railway Kyoto Station Building, which in-cludes a sprawling underground mall. Spend at least one night in a traditional wooden inn like the 12-room Ryokan Shimizu.

How to Get Around: Take the Japan Railway Tokaido Shinkansen bullet train from Tokyo to connect to Kyoto’s efficient transportation network of buses, trains, subways, and taxis. Explore the Higashiyama neighborhood’s shrines, temples, and museums on foot.

Where to Eat or Drink: Many restored machi-yas (traditional wooden townhouses) house bars and cafes. Try Urume (lunch only) for heaping bowls of soba noodles. Leave room for freshly made kinako (soybean powder) ice cream from Gion Kinana.

Fun Fact: Its shiragikui (white chrysanthe-mum) spring water has made Kyoto’s south-ern Fushimi district a nihonshu brewing hub since the 17th century. In Japan, nihonshu means Japanese alcohol (known as sake else-where), while the word sake refers to any al-cohol.

Hudson ValleyNew York’s original art show

When to Go: May-October; fall foliage and harvest festivals mid-September through October.

Where to Stay: The Olde Rhinebeck Inn’s mid-Hudson Valley location north of Hyde Park and easy access to the New York State Thruway (I-87) make the historic bed-and-breakfast an ideal base for area day trips.

How to Get Around: Driving offers the most flexibility. From New York City, drive north on either side of the Hudson River via I-87 (tolls) or U.S. 9W on the west or the scenic Taconic State Parkway or Route 9 on the east. Add a boat cruise (May-October, Hudson River Cruises) or scenic train ride (Metro-North Railroad).

Where to Eat or Drink: Book a table two months in advance at elegant Blue Hill at Stone Barns. Menus list the day’s fresh ingre-dients. Identify any you don’t want in your Farmer’s Feast.

Fun Fact: Sleepy Hollow Cemetery is the final resting place of The Legend of Sleepy Hollow author Washington Irving. Other notable residents include Harry and Leona Helmsley, whose lavish mausoleum offers Manhattan skyline views (on a stained-glass window). (Source: National Georgaphic Magazine)

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THE BEST CAKE IN

VIENNA

The cake was invented in 1832 by 16-year-old Franz Sacher. Years later, at the height of the Habsburg Em-pire, the beautiful, but lonely, Empress Sisi regularly had the cake sent to her. And today, 1,000 cakes are sold daily in four locations across Austria. (Two people are employed just to crack all the eggs — 11,000 each day!)

There are other versions — one could say imita-tions — of the famous torte, of course, including with Cafe Demel, Sacher’s main rival in Vienna. I’ve sampled many, but, for me, Cafe Sacher’s version always wins.

The cake isn’t for everyone. Some of my friends who have been moved to try the Sacher-Torte themselves af-ter hearing my rapturous reviews, only to return with complaints of dry cake. But that has been a small mi-nority. My obsession remains.

Cafe Sacher is attached to the family-owned Hotel Sacher, a transportive place that looks out over Hofburg Palace and the Vienna State Opera. I have yet to stay overnight but love that I can sit in the plush red-velvet lobby, the Blue Bar, or the cafe and still feel a part of it.

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Wolfgang Buchmann, Hotel Sacher’s charismatic chief concierge, says the cake owes its success to its se-cret recipe, which is locked away in a safe. “The ingredi-ents are high-quality, but simple,” he says. But he warns against pairing the cake with a coffee that could over-whelm its flavor. “It should not be too strong,” he says. “I prefer to drink a [Wiener] Melange with it.”

After a tête-à-tête with an Original Sacher-Torte, you’ll want to walk around. When I’m in town, I always take advantage of Vienna’s Ringstrasse, a grand boule-vard that encircles the historic city center in a 3-mile loop, for a post-torte power walk.

This time, the Ringstrasse is aglow with tiny, twin-kling lights from Vienna’s Christmas markets. The Christkindlmarkt in front of city hall, has the most stun-ning backdrop, but the Spittelberg Market, nestled in one of my favorite neighborhoods, the buzzing Neubau, near the MuseumsQuartier, is definitely worth a visit. You also won’t want to miss the market at Schönbrunn Palace, just a subway ride away from the Ringstrasse.

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TOFINOBritish Columbia

World Best Surf Town

Best For: Couples and surf travelers who want to trade the bleached-blonde surfer dude vibe for something more hip and outdoorsy … and don’t mind wearing a bit of extra neoprene.

California may be one of the surfing world’s spiritual centers, but one of the surfiest towns on the West Coast of North America is far to the north. Tofino, British Columbia, is an old fur trading and log-ging town that just happens to sit in one of the prettiest spots on Vancouver Island. Clayoquot Sound, compromised of nearly 350,000 hectares of land and ocean, is cool, misty, full of wildlife, and utterly spec-tacular. Although winters can be harsh, the spring and summer bring warmer air temperatures and almost nonstop markets, festivals, and cultural events.

“All of our beaches are beginner friend-ly, especially in the summer,” says local professional Peter Devries, a man who currently surfs better in head-to-toe neo-prene than perhaps anyone in the world. “The huge tides flatten out the beaches and create very mellow beginner waves. There is the odd exception where the banks can change and get powerful and hollow, but there is always somewhere that is good for beginners. South Chesterman Beach and Long Beach are great places to learn.”

WhenMarch to September. Winter sees the biggest waves, if you don’t mind freezing air temps and raging storm surf. Everyone else will appreciate more warmth and sunlight in exchange for slightly smaller waves.

LearnTofino Surf School owner and operator Jeff Hasse is a local insti-tution. Also, check out Storm Surf Shop for any of your surfing needs.

StayJust because you’re at the edge of a lot of wilderness doesn’t mean you have to rough it. Check out the rugged splendor of the Wickaninnish Inn.

Eat“For a small town, Tofino is blessed with a lot of good food,” says Devries. “My favorite restaurant is called SoBo—everything on the menu is amazing!”

PlayStarting in March, gray whales migrate from Baja to their sum-mer feeding grounds in the Bering Sea. It’s estimated that some 40 to 50 stay around the coast of Vancouver Island until around June. Hop in a whale-watching boat and pay your respects to one of the sea’s great migrations.

What to do Take a nap, and still manage a hike before lunch. (Source: Na-tional Georgaphic Magazine)

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