TOWARDSTHEZERODISCHARGETARGETANDOTHERWORTHYGOALS.ANINTERIMREPORTCARD

XEKOTEKSSYMPOSIUMIstanbul,May,3rd2017

F.JavierSardinaUniversityofSanOagodeCompostela

SPAIN

SUSTAINABILITYisthepasswordtoaccessaworldofopportuniOes(compeOOveadvantages)inthefashionindustry,formanufacturersaswellasforretailers.But,whatdoessustainabilitymean?HereIpresenttwoparOaldefiniOonsthatIparOcularlylike.

OnedefiniOonfocusesonhownottoabusetheresourceswhilemanufacturingyourarOcles

TheotherfocusesontheeffectsofmanufacturingpracOcesontheenvironmentandontheefficiencyofthewholeprocess

TOWARDSTHEZERODISCHARGETARGET

Ontheenvironmentalfront,thefashionindustryhasbeenunderalotofpressurefromcertainstakeholderstoimproveitsstandonsustainability,especiallywithregardstotheZERODISCHARGEOFHAZARDOUSCHEMICALS.

TOWARDSTHEZERODISCHARGETARGET

Brandsarebeinggradedaccordingtotheirperformancetowardsachievingthezerodischargegoal.

TOWARDSTHEZERODISCHARGETARGET

Andsomebrandsarebeingshamedbecauseoftheperceivedlackoftheirprogressinachievingthezerodischargegoal.

TOWARDSTHEZERODISCHARGETARGET

ThespecificgoaloftheZeroDischargeiniOaOveistoreducethelevelsofhazardouschemicalsintheoutputsoftexOleandleatherwetprocessingunits.Butfirstthingsfirst,whereshouldwemeasurethoselevelsofhazardouschemicals?

TOWARDSTHEZERODISCHARGETARGET

Processchemicals:•  Dyestuffs•  Pigments•  Auxiliarychemicals

Dischargesandrecoveredmaterials

FinishedarOcles

Measurehere

Measureheretoo

Rawmaterials

So,arewemakinganyprogresstowardsZeroDischarge?ThecaseofbannedarylaminesinfinishedarOcles.

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2014S 2014W 2015S 2015W 2016S 2016W

Percen

tageofd

etec0o

ns

Season

Bannedarylamines.%ofdetec0ons(>5ppm)

TOWARDSTHEZERODISCHARGETARGET

So,arewemakinganyprogresstowardsZeroDischarge?ThecaseofformaldehydeinfinishedarOcles.

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0,80

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tageoffails

Season

Formaldehyde.%offails

TOWARDSTHEZERODISCHARGETARGET

So,arewemakinganyprogresstowardsZeroDischarge?ThecaseofothersubstancesinfinishedarOcles.

TOWARDSTHEZERODISCHARGETARGET

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80,0

100,0%ofv

aria0o

n2015-2016.Varia0onofthe%ofdetec0ons

So,howdidwemanagetoreducetheuseof(most)hazardoussubstances?FirststepwastotryanddiscovertherootcauseofeachofthedetecOonsthatwerefound.WedidthisbyaudiOngthemanufacturingunits,theprocessesandthechemicalsinvolvedineachcase.Whatweretheresultsoftheseaudits?•  72%oftheproblemswerecausedbytheuseofprocesschemicalsofinadequatequality•  16%oftheproblemswerecausedbytheuseofinadequateprocessingcondiOonsina

manufacturingstep•  12%oftheproblemswerecausedbytheuseofinadequaterawmaterials,mostlyundyed

fabrics

TOWARDSTHEZERODISCHARGETARGET

So,howdidwemanagetoreducetheuseof(mostofthe)hazardoussubstances?Wedevelopedandimplemented3programs:•  TheList,byInditex,toensurethequalityofthechemicalproductsused•  ReadytoManutacture(RTM),aGoodManufacturingPracOcesprogramforthecleanan

sustainableproducOonoftexOleandleatherarOcles•  RootCauseAnalysis(RCA),tofindouttheoriginofeverysingledetecOonofhazardous

substances

TOWARDSTHEZERODISCHARGETARGET

by

III EDITION

THE LIST

RootCauseAnalysis

Focusedonthechemicalindustry Focusedonthewetprocessingunits

Thesearegeneralprograms,appliedtotheenOreextendedmanufacturingchainandintendedtodealwiththegeneralcausesofthepresenceofhazardoussusbtancesinthefinishedarOclesandeffluents.Itisobviousthattheyhaveworkedwellinreducingtheuse/presenceofhazardoussubstancesinarOclestoverylowlevels.But,canwekeepusingthemtoachievetheZeroDischargetarget?InmyopinionweneedtolooknowatthefinerdetailsoftheremainingdetecOonstodeviseandimplementfurther(efficient)acOons.ThecaseofBANNEDARYLAMINES:

TOWARDSTHEZERODISCHARGETARGET

ARYLAMINE 2015 2016 %REDUCTION MAINCAUSESOFDETECTIONSIN20164,4-Diaminodiphenylmethane 885 545 38,4 CatalystsinprinOngpastes,adhesives,lowqualityelasOcpartsBenzidine 554 340 38,6 LowqualitydirectdyesusedinChinaandIndiatodyesmallparts4-Chloroaniline 377 199 47,2 MainlyinBLACKcoionarOcles.LowqualityBLACKreacOvedyeso-Dianisidine 178 162 9,0 MainlyinBLUEcoionarOcles.LowqualityBLUEdirectdyes4-Aminobiphenyl 218 124 43,1 LowqualitydirectdyesusedinChinaandIndiatodyesmallparts4-Aminoazobenzene 259 119 54,1 LowqualitydispersedyesusedmostlyinChinatodyesmallparts2,4-Diaminotoluene 158 79 50,0 CatalystsinprinOngpastes(prints)andalsoinfoams3,3-Dichlorobenzidine 131 57 56,5 Mostlyinfoams,probablyfromthecrosslinkingagentusedTOTALDETECTIONS>=20ppm 951 539 43,3TOTALDETECTIONS>=500ppm 98 29 70,4TOTALDETECTIONS>=5ppm 2569 1489 42,0

Weneedspecificprogramswithnarrowerfocuses.ThemainproblemistheRACETOTHEBOTTOM

ThecaseofORGANOTINS:

TOWARDSTHEZERODISCHARGETARGET

WhataretheoriginsofthesedetecOons:•  InplasOcparts,diorganoOncompoundsareusedas

•  stabilizersforPVC•  catalystsfortheformaOonofpolyurethanesandpolyesters

•  Inprints,diorganoOncompoundsappearasresiduesinpolyurethane-basedprinOngpastes

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PLASTICPARTS PRINTS

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llde

tec0on

s

Detec0onsoforgano0nsinpartsofgarments.2012-2016

Tofindouthowwearedoingwithothertypesofhazardoussubstancesitisbeiertocheckfortheirpresenceintheeffluentsofthewetprocessingunits.Weseetwodifferenttrends.TheGOODone:

TOWARDSTHEZERODISCHARGETARGET

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CAMPAIGN1 CAMPAIGN2 CAMPAIGN3

%ofdetec0onsofPHTHALATES

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CAMPAIGN1 CAMPAIGN2 CAMPAIGN3

%ofdetec0onsofSCCPs

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CAMPAIGN1 CAMPAIGN2 CAMPAIGN3

%ofdetec0onsofHEAVYMETALS

Campaign1:2012-2013Campaign2:2014-2015Campaign3:2016

…andtheNOTSOGOODone:

TOWARDSTHEZERODISCHARGETARGET

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%ofdetec0onsofCHLOROAROMATICS

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15,3

CAMPAIGN1 CAMPAIGN2 CAMPAIGN3

%ofdetec0onsofAPEOs

SothereissOllsomefundamentalworktodobeforewehaveacompleteunderstandingofallpossibleoriginsofeverysubstancethatwewanttoeliminatefromthemanufacturingchain.WeneedthisknowledgetosuccesfullyachieveourtargetofZeroDischargeofHazardousChemicalsinthetexOlesector.

Campaign1:2012-2013Campaign2:2014-2015Campaign3:2016

Whichothergoals?Thehealthofourcustomers,forinstance.Withregardstothisissue,Ishallconcentrateonallergicreac0onscausedbyapparelandfootwear,withafocusonprevenOon.AllergiestochemicalsubstancesareagrowingprobleminEurope.TheycanoccursinceearlyageandcangiverisetocondiOonsofvaryingdegreesofseverity,frommildrashestochroniceczema.InDenmark,forinstance,around20%ofthepopulaOonisallergictochemicalsubstancesintheimmediateenvironmentandknownallergieshaveincreasedoverthepast10years.InfashionarOcles,Chromium(VI),formaldehyde,releasableNickel,andseveraldispersedyesarethemaincausesofconcerninthisregard.So,ifwecheckthearOclesforthepresenceofthesesubstancesweshouldbeOK,right?

ANDOTHERWORTHYGOALS

ANDOTHERWORTHYGOALS

ThemechanismofcontactdermaOOs:smallmoleculeallergens(calledhaptensinthiscontext)bindwithproteinsintheskin.Morespecifically,theybindwithpepOdesonthesurfaceofLangerhanscellswhichthenmigratetolocallymphglands,wherethepepOde-allergencomplexispresentedtoT-lymphocytes.AnObodiesarethencreated,andthenextOmethesamehaptencontactstheskin,anallergicreacOonisalmostinevitable.

Theyfitperfectly

WerecentlystartedacollaboraOononthisissuewiththeSanOagodeCompostelaUniversityHospital.TheyaskedforourhelpinidenOfyingtherootcauseofaseverecaseofallergytopolyester-elastanegarmentswhichweredyedinverydarkblueorblackcolours.WeinmediatelysuspectedanallergenicdispersedyeastheculpritofthisextremereacOon.Thereisalistofdispersedyeswellknowntocauseallergies,butnoneofthemwerepresentinsizeableamountsonthegarmentswhichcausedtheproblem.

ANDOTHERWORTHYGOALS

C.I. Generic Name C.I. Structure No. Disperse Blue 1 C.I. 64500 Disperse Blue 3 C.I. 61505 Disperse Blue 7 C.I. 62500 Disperse Blue 26 C.I. 63305 Disperse Blue 35 C.I. 63600 Disperse Blue 102 C.I. 111945 Disperse Blue 106 C.I. 111935 Disperse Blue 124 C.I. 111938 Disperse Brown 1 C.I. 11152 Disperse Orange 1 C.I. 11080 Disperse Orange 3 C.I. 11005 Disperse Orange 11 C.I. 60700 Disperse Orange 37/59/76 C.I. 11132 Disperse Orange 149 ---Disperse Red 1 C.I. 11110 Disperse Red 11 C.I. 62015 Disperse Red 17 C.I. 11210 Disperse Yellow 1 C.I. 10345 Disperse Yellow 3 C.I. 11855 Disperse Yellow 9 C.I. 10375 Disperse Yellow 23 C.I. 26070 Disperse Yellow 39 C.I. 480095 Disperse Yellow 49 ---

16-002808/16-002809

1. Descripción de las muestras

Descripción: DRESS

Referencia.: Fragmento de vestido Fecha de recepción: 22/2/2012

Código AMSlab: 16-002808 Fecha de finalización: 15/06/2016

Fig1. Muestra analizada

Descripción: BIKINI

Referencia.: -- Fecha de recepción: 22/2/2012

Código AMSlab:

16-002808

Fecha de finalización: 15/06/2016

Fig2. Muestra analizada

2

16-002808/16-002809

1. Descripción de las muestras

Descripción: DRESS

Referencia.: Fragmento de vestido Fecha de recepción: 22/2/2012

Código AMSlab: 16-002808 Fecha de finalización: 15/06/2016

Fig1. Muestra analizada

Descripción: BIKINI

Referencia.: -- Fecha de recepción: 22/2/2012

Código AMSlab:

16-002808

Fecha de finalización: 15/06/2016

Fig2. Muestra analizada

2

So,amertheususalsuspectshadbeendiscarded,whattodonext?Wedidsomeresearch,ofcourse.WetriedtoidenOfyallthedyestuffsthathadbeenusedtodyetheproblemaOcgarments.LC-MALDI-TOFanalysisofthesamplesyieldedtwocandidates:

ANDOTHERWORTHYGOALS

NN

N

CH3

CH3H3C

N

S

O2N Disperse Blue 360

O2N

NN

NH2

Disperse Orange 3Foundinminuteamounts(<1ppm)

Foundinlargeamounts

ThisoneISinthelistofknownallergenicdyes

ThisoneISNOTinthelistofknownallergenicdyes

WepreparedfabricpatchesdyedwitheitherdyeandacombinaOonofbothofthemandthentestedthepatchesonthepaOent.

ANDOTHERWORTHYGOALS

ApplicaOonofthedyedfabricpatches ReacOonamer7days

NN

N

CH3

CH3H3C

N

S

O2N Disperse Blue 360

AllergicscarswereformedonlyonthepartsofthepaOent’sskinthathadbeenincontactwiththepatchesdyedwithDisperseBlue360(aloneorincombinaOonwiththeDisperseOrange3).NowweneedanexplanaOonforthis.

WhyisDisperseBlue360generaOnganallergicreacOon?

ANDOTHERWORTHYGOALS

ThemolecularstructureofDisperseBlue360isveryclosetothatofaknownallergenicdye,DisperseBlue106,sotheymayelicitthesameallergicresponse.

Insummary,wehaveidenOfiedapotenOalnewallergenicdyethroughthecollaboraOonofafashionretailer,ahospital,ananalyOcalserviceproviderandaUniversity.WebelievethatthiscaseisagoodillustraOonofhowverydifferentstakeholderscancooperatetobeierprotectthehealthofconsumers.

Theyfitperfectly

NN

N

CH3

CH3H3C

N

S

O2N Disperse Blue 360

NN

N

CH3

H3C

N

S

O2N Disperse Blue 106

OH

Theonlydifferencebetweenthesetwosubstances