The hidden heritage of the Hertford Road

The Hertford Road from Enfield Wash to Enfield Highway

The small panels will be displayed in shops from 13th - 27th July, 2012. Use this map to seek out the art work and discover what the high street used to look like.

Albany Park

19 20

1714

13

7

54

3

11108

15

16

2

1

1.

19.

17.

15.

13.

11.

9.

7.

5.

3.

2.

20.

18.

16.

14.

12.

10.

8.

6.

4.

9

6

18

12

Turkey Street

Hoe Lane

Carterhatch Lane

Green Street

Ordnance Road

In spring 2012, Art Start worked with local traders and residents in Enfield Highway and Enfield Wash to discover how the high street has developed over the decades.

Based on our research, local people of all ages have helped to create glittering glass mosaic panels to reflect the hidden heritage of the Hertford Road.

Your local shops have now been transformed into temporary galleries as all 20 glass panels are waiting to be discovered! Where possible, the panels reflect what the current building used to be, in some cases the original shop locations are a few doors away.

This project would not have been possible without the help of: Local History Research Rose Guinan London Borough of Enfield - Local Studies & Archive Unit Booklet Design Nigel Kellaway Stained Glass Artists Debra Dean and Sam Dean

Glass Mosaic Artists Charlie Ashley, Jordan Ngubo, Mary Myers, Sky Myers Ayan Aidid, Alashay Baptiste, Alexis Constantinou Emiliana Argyrocastriti, Finn Marchant, Katie Woods Linda Mitchell and Kim Glover Project Photography Debra Dean and Rose Guinan (Process) Nigel Kellaway (Completed glassworks) Booklet Printing PWPFS Print & Design

FundingTracing the Wash is supported by an A1010 commission awarded by Cultural Services, Enfield Council and funded by The Outer London Fund of the GLA A big thank you to all the local traders and residents who have shared a lifetime of memories and helped make this project a success!

The history of your high street, Horsepool Stones to Cocksmiths End,

Hides a heritage of industry, With a pub on every bend!

Take a trip down memory lane,

Explore the high-street shops of old,Follow the trail of glistening glass,That reveals what merchants sold.

As you imagine the Hertford Road,

As it was many years ago,Support the traders there right now,

And pop in to say hello!

1. Police Helmet

Enfield Highway Police Station - A police station stood in this location from 1890 until the second half of the 20th century.

120 Hertford Road is now home to Mr Plant Hire. Tel. 08445 555 553 www.mrplanthire.co.uk

2. The Plough Sign

The Plough Public House – For many years this watering hole stood on the west side of the Hertford Road and its sign now hangs over the Sporting Green on the corner of Green Street.

128 Hertford Road is now Adreena’s Bakery. Tel. 020 8804 0138. www.adreenasbakery.com

The first reference to the Hertford Road was in 1260 when it was called ‘Enfield High Street’

Turkey Street was in existence from at least 1457 and Green Street by 1471.

In 1572 ‘Cocksmiths End’ was the name given to the hamlet that ran south from Hoe Lane to Green Street - this is the present day Enfield Highway!

3. Bell Sign

The Bell Public House - One of the high street’s landmarks at 510 Hertford Road, first mentioned in records of 1752. Up to the late nineteenth century, a mile stone stood nearby The Bell, marking the miles to and from London. Now home to the vibrant Aksular Restaurant. Tel 020 8805 9646

4. Shoe Shop

Shoe Shop - Since this parade of shops opened in the 1960s, this shop has undergone several transformationsMore recently it has been Art Start’s base for the Tracing the Wash workshops. www.artstart.org.uk Tel. 020 8345 5369

5. Pint Glass

The Volunteer Public House - Although we have a picture of this pub dated 1912, we do not know when it was demolished and we have yet to find a resident who remembers it! Do you?

This site is now occupied by Albany Leisure Centre. www.fusion-lifestyle.com Tel. 020 8804 4255

6. Flower

Florist - Indicative of the green fingered history of the area.

519 Hertford Road is now a furniture shop. Tel. 020 8805 3261

Name that road! Ordnance Road came into existence in 1897 but had been an important route down to the River Lee since 1577 when it was referred to as Norris

Lane. It then went on to be referenced as Marsh Lane in 1754 and then Welches Lane in 1823 before being re-christened just before the turn of the twentieth century.

7. Tomato Vine

Greengrocers - Once selling locally grown fruit and vegetables.

Located at 541 Hertford Road this large shop is now The Boutique bridal shop. www.theboutiqueuk.com Tel. 020 8616 4346

8. Coffin

Abbots Funeral Directors - For many years, a family-run funeral directors served the community of Enfield Wash.

Today 584 Hertford Road is a successful glazing business - Towns-End Windows. Tel. 020 8443 4461 www.townsenddoubleglazing.co.uk

What is your local pub? If you had been around in 1658, your choice of watering holes would have been The Chequers at Horsepool Stones (Enfield

Wash) or The Four Swans at Cocksmiths End (Enfield Highway).

9. Home Sweet Home

Home Sweet Home - At the end of the 1960s this property was still a residential dwelling.

In 1970, Albany Radio expanded their business and bought 545-547 Hertford Road.

www.euronics.co.uk Tel. 020 8804 2077

10. Top Hat

Hales - The Top Hat mosaic references the large gentleman’s clothing store that once dominated this section of the high street.

586 Hertford Road is now the Brown Eagle Caribbean Restaurant. Tel. 020 8443 0259 www.browneagle.co.uk

In 1664 the hamlet of Horsepool Stones consisted of just 100 houses which spanned a 1¼ mile stretch of the Hertford Road.

Sir Henry Wroth of Durants was given the title of Lord Enfield in 1695.

11. Jug and Eggs

The International Stores - Once selling a wide variety of produce from a beautiful facade.

608 Hertford Road has long since been home to Barnards Jewellers. Tel. 020 8443 1316

12. Wine Bottle & Grapes

Off licence - This must have been one of the largest off licences in Enfield, the property was owned and built by Truman’s Brewery.

561-563 Hertford Road is now trading as Barclays Bank. Tel 0845 755 5555 www.barclays.co.uk

In the eighteenth century a grand house was built along Turkey Street called Grove House. It was visited by the artist Thomas Rowlandson but demolished between 1920 and 1935.

13. Three Balls

Pawn Brokers - The premises is well documented in historical photographs of the area and stood two doors down from The Prince Albert Public House.

In 2012, Zykes Unisex Hair Salon can be found at 603 Hertford Road. Tel. 01992 767137

14. Apothecary Bottle

Chemist - First established in Queen Victoria’s reign.

Photographs locate this shop next to the Pawn Brokers but our mosaic panel can be seen at Finley’s Bar, 611 Hertford Road. Tel. 01992 714085

The charitable Charles Wright settled Alms Houses at Enfield Highway for 6 aged widows in 1847. The houses are still standing today!

15. Lollipops

Confectioners - a famous local sweet shop selling a wide variety of treats!

This panel can be viewed at Unique Estates Property Services. 578 Hertford Road, Enfield, EN3 5SU. Tel. 020 8804 5050 info@uniqueestatesps.co.uk www.uniqueestatesps.co.uk

16. Police Box

Police Box - A police box used to stand on the corner of Turkey Street and The Hertford Road.

The mosaic panel can be found at St John’s Properties - 1A Turkey Street. www.stjohnsproperties.co.uk Tel. 020 8804 6682

London’s calling! Until the 1800s there was a marked milestone outside The Bell on the Hertford Road which designated the route into London – the next mile

stone was Waltham Cross. The cross was first marked when Queen Eleanor’s body was transported to London in 1290 - the monument erected in her memory (by her

husband King Edward I), forever changed the name of the village of Waltham.

17. Camera

Camera Shop - For many years a camera shop stood at 617 Hertford Road, just north of Turkey Brook.

Today the shop is home to The Sewing Box (haberdashers). Tel. 01992 761800

18. Hat

Mary’s of Enfield - Was a Ladies hat shop selling finery to be worn by mothers of the bride. The shop is still trading but is located in Hoddesdon.

619 Hertford Road now houses Mwanaka Fresh Farm Foods. www.mwanakafreshfarmfoods.com Tel. 01992 765668

In 1891 GER opened a new rail line from Lower Edmonton to Cheshunt known as the Southbury Loop Line. A station was positioned where Turkey Street Station is today but it was called Forty Hill Station (the

A10 didn’t separate the east from the west of Enfield until 1924).

19. Sheaf of Wheat

Linscotts Corn Merchants and Pet and Garden Supplies - serving the local community for nearly 3 generations. Linscotts once had property on the north and south side of Ordnance Road at the junction with the Hertford Road.

The mosaic glass panel can be viewed at the north side location in Ordnance Road Library. (See No. 20)

20. Town Mouse

The Town Mouse - A wonderfully quaint children’s toy shop which was located in small premises at the side of 621-623 Hertford Road (then Linscotts.)

The panel can be viewed at Ordnance Road Library, directly opposite the shop’s original location. Tel. 020 8379 1725 www.enfield.gov.uk

1907: Electric tramway installed on Hertford Road

1961: The last trolley buses ran down the Hertford Road

Stained Glass MapTo commemorate this project and to celebrate the local communities who have helped us along the way, our artists have lovingly crafted a stunning stained glass map of the area as it was over 100 years ago.

This triptych, inspired by Victorian maps of Enfield, depicts the Lee Valley, the Hertford Road Corridor and the grounds surrounding Forty Hall as they once were. Traditional handpainting and firing techniques were used to revive ancient crafts and reflect the industrial heritage of Enfield Wash and Enfield Highway.

A variety of glass has been used including clear panes to reflect the glasshouses in the East, medieval glass to enhance the locations of high status huidlings and textured and coloured glass to reflect the land uses in the surrounding area.

The map tours the libraries along the Hertford Road during the summer of 2012 Ordnance Road Library 13th - 26th July, 2012 Enfield Highway Library 27th July - 9th August, 2012 Ponders End Library 10th - 23rd August, 2012 Edmonton Green Library 24th August - 6th September, 2012 Fore Street Library 7th - 21st September, 2012

The Elizabeth Canning Saga

The truth is elusive in this tale! Elizabeth Canning, an 18 year old servant, was allegedly kidnapped on New Year ’s Day 1753 and taken to a house of disrepute in Marsh Lane in Enfield. The house was held by Mother Wells and having refused to work as a prostitute, Elizabeth claimed she was locked in an attic while a Gypsy woman (Mary Squires) stole her money. She escaped nearly a month later and walked the 11 miles back to her Master’s house in London.

Following her Masters lead, Elizabeth was hailed as a moral heroine for enduring this plight in spite of her conditions and subsequently Mother Wells had her thumb branded and Mary Squires was sentenced to hang at a trial held at the Old Bailey... However, with a priest as her alibi, Mary Squires obtained a pardon from the King and as such, Elizabeth Canning was tried for perjury and transported to America where she married and lived out the rest of her days.

The scandal of this story cannot be underestimated! Over 36 pamphlets and 14 prints were produced, it was the only topic of conversation and the country was split into Canninites and Gypsies. The saga produced a variety of conspiracy theories, one being that Canning had gone away to have a child for an aristocratic couple who were incapable of conception. It also drew the attention of prominent satirists such as Hogarth who drew Canning in Newgate Prison.

Art Start was set up in 1997 as a small organisation providing after school activities for children in Edmonton Green Shopping Centre.

Over the past 13 years Art Start has grown into Enfield’s primary community arts provider working in schools and the community and taking part in high profile festivals and events both locally and regionally.

Art Start exists to give all members of the community access to high quality arts activities.

Art Start is a registered charity number 1096634

Art Start11 South Way

Claverings EstateMontagu Road

EdmontonN9 0AB

www.artstart.org.uk

info@artstart.org.uk 020 8345 5369

‘producing excellencethrough creativity’