traditional japanese clothing for cosplayers
TRANSCRIPT
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Historical Japanese ClothingFor Cosplayers
An overview of traditional Japanese clothing, from the Heian era to the present day, with an emphasis on fabrics, construction techniques, and how cosplayers in the West can replicate these garments without going broke in the process.
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HistoryTime periods of note:
○ Heian■ 794–1185
○ Muromachi■ 1336–1573
● Includes Sengoku period○ Edo
■ 1603–1868○ Meiji
■ 1868–1912
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SeriesCLAMP
X
Tokyo Babylon
Tsubasa
Gintama
Shinsengumi series
Shrine Maidens
Mononoke
Inuyasha
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Series
Bakumatsu series
Gintama
Kenshin
Peacemaker Kurogane
Mononoke
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Series
Heian-era clothes
Inuyasha
Sailor Moon
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Women
Kimono
Obi
AccessoriesHakama (nondivided, ex: shrine maidens)Haori
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Breakdown of StylesFor WomenSleeve lengths convey messages about age & marital status
The longest sleeves are reserved for unmarried young women & girls in formal occasions
Color and pattern also convey messages about formalityBlack is very formal, and also used for funeral attireMon (family crests) are also an indication of formality
Accessories are further used in styling kimonoThis includes obi and the knots used to tie them
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Heian EraMajor cultural
exchange with China
Importation of Chinese styles for the nobility
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WomenHeavily layeredDesigned for aesthetics,
not functionalityChoice of colors importantFrequently all a man would
see before marriage
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MenAlso fairly layeredMore functionalStill in use (Shinto
priests)
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Men
Kimono
Hakama (nondivided or divided)
Kataginu (formal)Jinbaori ('campaign coat')
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Breakdown of StylesFor MenSignificantly less choice and style in men's kimono
Colors are usually subdued, with little patterningOnly two obi types, one formal, one informalOnly recently has style shifted towards more colorful styles
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The ‘Modern’ Kimono
WomenSpecific colors and style for different ages and occasions
Furisode (long sleeves, for unmarried women)
Kakeshita (wedding kimono)
Uchikake (elaborate wedding over-robe, padded hem)Some movement away from rigid definition in recent years
MenStill very subdued colors - browns, blacks, bluesMore experimentation with pattern and fabric in recent years
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ConstructionKimono are constructed primarily of rectangular pieces of fabric of fixed width (13”-15” based on the historical width of looms). Sewn so that the garment can be taken apart again for washing.
This construction makes it very easy to adjust the size of a kimono for any body type, as no specific ‘pattern’ is needed, the kimono can be constructed based on body measurements.
http://kimono-lover.blogspot.com/2014/04/leanring-how-to-make-yukata-part-one.html
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Patterns
Traditional layout uses as few cuts as possible, from
narrow-width fabric - everything is rectangles!
Online patterns and tutorials easily found
'Make Your Own Japanese Clothes’ - John MarshallRound Earth hakama pattern - http://www.round-
earth.com/
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Fabrics
In early times: flax, linen
Silk via China, originally a luxury
The finer the silk (= fewer slubs and imperfections) the
better quality
Cotton reaches Japan late, via trade routes to India.
Initially seen as somewhat prestigious
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Fabrics (continued)
By the late 19th century, silk becoming more widely
available
20th + 21st century: Silk is most formal, rayon is a less
expensive substituteWestern options: high quality satins, crepe silks, satin-
weave cottons
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Embellishment techniques
Dyeing - Indigoworks on
cotton/linen/hemp
tricky to use
still used (jeans!)
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Embellishment techniques
ShiboriJapanese 'tie-dye'
used most often with
indigo
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Embellishment techniques
Dyeing - Silkvery easy to dye
vibrant colors
lots of techniques
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Embellishment techniques
Stencil Dyeingtraditionally paste resist
modern alternatives
available
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Embellishment techniques
EmbroiderySilk or rayon floss
Metallic thread couching
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Embellishment Techniques (cont.)
PaintingMetallic paints
Matte paints not traditionally
used, but a simpler
alternative to dyeing
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Embellishment Techniques (cont.)
Appliquetraditionally used on lower-class clothing
can be a substitute for painting or dyeing fabric
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Non-Kimono GarmentsTechniques used for other garments tooLOTS of accessories - sometimes easier to buy.
ex: geta and zori can be found via ebay sellers
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ArmorAppearance and
construction vary over time
Also varies based on rank
IE: Generals vs. Foot soldiers
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Armor cont.Possible MaterialsEVA foam (anti-fatigue
mats)Sintra (PVC board)Paracord and shoe laces
(for lacing)chain mailpatterned fabrics leather
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Armor cont.Resources
SengokuDaimyo.comAbundant information on traditional construction and patterns for
making armor - geared towards SCA, but can be adapted for cosplay.Punishedprops.com
Video tutorials and e-books on foam armor fabrication - geared to videogames, can be adapted for Japanese armor.Youtube!
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Slides Onlinehttp://www.slideshare.net/pinnedtogether/japanese-clothing-48235608
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Useful Linkshttp://www.iz2.or.jp/english/index.htm - diagrams and models of Heian-era clotheshttp://fibers.destinyslobster.com/Japanese/Clothes/japmake.htm - kimono and hakama tutorialshttp://www.round-earth.com/index.html - patterns for multiple garmentshttp://www.folkwear.com/asian.html - patterns for multiple garmentshttp://sarcasm-hime.net/tipscosplay.html - hakama tutorialhttp://www.dharmatrading.com/ - fabric and supplies for dyeinghttp://www.fabrictales.com/STORE/store.cgi?product=chirimen_solid - rayon chirimenhttp://www.sengokudaimyo.com/garb/garb.html - rarer garments with photos and descriptionshttp://www.sengokudaimyo.com/katchu/katchu.html - guide to traditional armor, including patterns and instructions
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References & ResourcesDalby, Liza. Kimono: Fashioning Culture. Seattle: U of Washington, 2001. Print.
Dobson, Jenni. Making Kimono and Japanese Clothes. London: Batsford, 2008. Print.
Koike, Yoko, Kumiko Kozakai, and Tomomi Ahiko. Sashiko Style: Traditional Japanese Patterns for Contemporary Design. Japan: Co-published by Japan Publications Trading, and Joie, 2007. Print.
Kure, Mitsuo. Samurai: Arms, Armor, Costume. Edison, NJ: Chartwell, 2007. Print.
Marshall, John. Make Your Own Japanese Clothes: Patterns and Ideas for Modern Wear. Tokyo: Kodansha International, 1988. Print.
Tamura, Shuji. The Techniques of Japanese Embroidery. Iola, WI: Krause Publications, 1998. Print.
Hakama Pattern, Round Earth Publishing: http://roundearth.stores.yahoo.net/hakformarar.html