Travellers Stories South Africa

(Forward Feb 2010)

The following article has been taken from the SIA Members’ magazine, forward and retains the original layout of the magazine. Where possible we have removed advertisements and other material not relevant to the content but we apologise that in some cases this has not been possible.

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Visiting the

It’s not like I am a celestial

navigator. I couldn’t find my way home from the corner pub

by looking at the stars even if all I had to drink was Stone’s Ginger Beer. Set me sailing out on the ocean at night by the stars – well, I’ve never been sailing at night so I’m not certain – but I imagine you would never hear from me until I drifted up on a forsaken beach somewhere.

So I kept the shades closed on the 15-hour flight from the east coast of the US to Johannesburg and I didn’t see the night sky until I was safely tucked away in a wheelchair-accessible hut at Hilltop Camp inside Hluluwe Game Reserve – but that’s jumping too far ahead in the story.

Jennae Bezuidenhout of Access 2 Africa Safaris is an enterprising woman. She is the reason I was able to make this trip. She and her husband J. J. live in the area of Kwazulu Natal Province South

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Africa known as the ElephantCoast. Surrounded by about 400game reserves, animal rehabilitationcentres, sporting, leisure, andvacation destinations she lives andbreathes travel industry in a cornerof the country north of Durban.Since her husband’s paralysis shehas taken what she has learnedfrom her personal and businessenvironments and woven them intosomething unique. She has becomea provider of – and an evangelist for– safaris that include travellers withmobility impairments and otherdisabilities.

Arriving on a connecting flight ofone more hour in the air, I met mysmiling tall blonde South Africanhostess and the other specialist inInclusive Tourism who would bepart of this 11-day tour. MonicaGuy is a sparklingly intelligentyoung British travel writer.She came with a pedigree includinghaving written the first campusaccessibility guide for CambridgeUniversity, a prolific collection ofonline and print tour guide writing,

and experience as part of theteam that travels withDr Stephen Hawking. Introducedto our driver Aubrey who wouldaccompany us throughout thetour we used the tailgate lift toenter the van provided byBudget rentals and began thejourney.

Jennae’s wisdom was apparentfrom the start. Rather thanrushing off to ‘relax’ in the bushwe spent some time settling intoa City Lodge in Durban.We ambled through the adjacentGateway Mall purchasing theodds and ends that inevitably getforgotten when packing for amonth-long trip.

Well-provisioned – andimpressed by the indoor climbingrock and standing wave surffacility in the mall – we took aday trip to North Beach andShake Marine World. Shake isthe largest marine theme park inAfrica and includes the fifthlargest aquarium in the world.

The park’s Zulu themes areimmediately apparent. So is thegood integration of accessiblepaths of travel. Unifying designthemes were noticeable whilepassing through shops lining thefirst several blocks beyond theentrance. I was captivated by myfirst exposure to what I latercame to know as ‘wiremen’.These are sculptures made ofwire (sometimes beaded) andthen illuminated.

The snorkelling pond was closedand the surf a little too vigorousso we watched the water worldrather than entered it. The park’saquarium is housed in whatlooks like a beached shipwreck.Charming – and easilywheelchair accessible via thesame series of long ramps usedby all visitors.

From Durban our trip took us tonearby Kloof and a stay at theremarkable Macaranga Lodgeand Spa built in the 30-acre

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I travel a lot – more thanmost other tetraplegicsthat I know. Even so, whenI first look up at the skyon every trip to thesouthern hemisphere I amtemporarily disoriented.

Elephant Coast

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grounds of a botanical garden.The owners have augmented thebeauty with a collection of Shonestone sculptures. From regal toplayful these works of art setthroughout the grounds are onlypart of the personal touch.Each room has original artworkcollected by the owners. Onehalf of the rooms are wheelchairfriendly. Even the pool can berolled into in a wheelchair.Macarena is a rare find amonghigh-end lodgings.

The overland portion of ouradventure began with the driveto Hluluwe Game Reserve.I transferred to one of the narrowjump seats and gained a viewout of the side window. The hutat Hluluwe was spacious andconvenient. Situated at adistance from the restaurant and

its imposing view, the hut was aquiet retreat in an already relaxingenvironment.

A side trip to Ilala Weaver’sCo-op store was a feast forsomeone with a strong desire tosupport local craftspeople andindigenous arts. The businessmodel is fair trade with workspurchased from local artisans whoare in turn compensated fairly.In turn they have the guaranteedincome that allows them tomature in their art form.The results were obvious on everyshelf. If there are any regretsabout my trip it is that I did nothave a few hundred more dollarson hand to purchase thebeadwork, wood carvings, andZulu baskets that so captivatedme.

But the heart of the trip were thegame drives! It would be tediousto read in print the long list of allthe animals we saw. Of course the‘big guys’ were there: giraffe,Cape buffalo, rhino, andwildebeest. So were colourfulbirds, tiny steenbok, humorouswart hogs, moody hyenas, andmajestic leopards. Just drivingfrom one place to another was anadventure of ‘firsts’! Tour Guide,Dave Davies, of the nearbyHluluwe backpacker’s lodge wassuperb.

Later, our nights in the accessiblehut at Bonamanzi Game Reservewere very enjoyable. We had more

food than we could eat and apermanent show of inpala andwart wogs grazing on the lawn.A whole new set of skills andsenses are awakened in the bush.The ranger amazed us by spottinga chameleon no larger than myindex finger clinging to a bushduring a night drive – pitch blackwith only a lamp to see by.

Before returning to Durban andanother delightful stay atMacaranga Lodge we had twoother adventures.

We got a warm welcome atDumazulu Cultural Village.We watched the athletic Zuludancers. Then I sang a capellawith them (in Zulu!) wearing ananimal skin hat with a tail floppingbehind. It reminded me of theraccoon-skin caps we used to call‘Daniel Boone’ hats.

We also headed to St Lucia and itsWorld Heritage estuary network.Literally risking life and limb to getfrom the inaccessible dock to anAdvantage Tours cruise I wasimmediately rewarded when wecame upon a fish eagle, a colonyof brilliant yellow weaver birds, anda family of hippos. I was laterimpressed to see Advantage Tours’new wheelchair-friendly boatwaiting on land for permission tolaunch.

South Africa’s Elephant Coast isan under-explored tourist gem.With the slower pace,professionals like Jennae and herAccess 2 Africa Safaris can offerclose personalised service.The area’s ‘hidden secret’ identityis about to change however.The new Durban airport with directinbound international flights will goonline in time for the 2010 WorldCup.

There is a story that circulatesaround the Rains’ family.It surfaced as we did some digginginto our genealogy recently.

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It generally starts with thelines, “The Rains came overthe mountain (the CumberlandGap during the westwardexpansion in the US) withDaniel Boone.”

Maybe it’s just a rationalisationfor my wanderlust. Still, Isense a kinship of spirit withDaniel Boone who is reportedto have said, in answer to thequestion, “Have you ever beenlost?” – “No, but I was once amight confused for a fewdays.”

I recommend taking a chanceon a few confused nightsunder South African skies.Get lost if you are so inclined.

If you run into one of thosecool Zulu ‘Daniel Boone’ hats,send me one, ok?

Scott Rains

Find out more

Access2africasafarisWebsite: www.access2africasafaris.co.zaEmail: info@access2africasafaris.co.zaTour Guide: Dave Davies, Hluluwe Backpacker’s Lodge0027 35 5620357Email: info@hluhluwebackpackers@lantic.net