trekking misti volcano - peru travel
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8/3/2019 Trekking Misti Volcano - Peru TRAVEL
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BackpackersWanted.com
Misti Volcano
Myself, and 10 other intrepid explorers (more commonly referred to as, dumb gingos), joined forces to tackle her perfectly cone-shaped, active peak.
Weighed down physically by close to 50 pounds of gear, with second thoughts weighing us down mentally, we began the climb on a heavy note.
Rising over 19,000 feet, Misti Volcano towers majestically over Arequipa.
Seen from every street corner in town, I was done admiring her,
it was time to CONQUER!
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A scorching hot beginning soon turned bitterly
cold. The first 1,000 meters saw a change of at
least 60 degrees F (for those of you Celsius
peeps, 25/30 degrees). Beach bum to Eskimo in
a matter of hours. The climate change also
brought a massive environment change. From the
lush surrounds (well, as lush as the Andean
mountains can be) to that of volcanic rock and
ash.
Warned ahead of time about altitude sickness, I
still refused to buy medicine. Too stubborn, and
more so, CHEAP, for my own good. Besides, if I
was going to fight the sickness, I would do it as
the Incas did, with coca leaves.
To release their ancient medicinal powers, chew the leaves into a small
ball and lodge the salivated mush into the back of your mouth. Inhaling
the leaves medical aroma helps numb the debilitating symptoms of
altitude sickness. As for flavor, well, let s just say it would not be on my
top 10 list (or hundred for that matter). If youve ever tasted fresh lawn
mulch, well, this was worse. However, they do the trick and withinminutes of munching the pounding headaches and disoriented feelings
lessen. I also learned, while chomping away, that this ancient Incan
medicine happens to be the same leaf that produces cocaine. No, I did
not use cocaine while climbing a volcano, as the leaves have to be
isolated and purified heaps before ever reaching the illegal drug state,
but it does make for a rather good story anyways.
Reaching base camp was a feat in itself for many climbers due to the
suffocating altitude change. Situated at 4,800 meters, on one of the few
rocky ledges Misti offers, base camp demanded quick climatization. While
our guides fired up mini-electric stoves, myself, and two other determinedamigas attempted to start a fire. Oh, our guides had a good laugh watching
the three stooges scrounge around camp for left over crackers boxes, toilet
rolls, and dry brush but the criticism was well worth the looks on their faces
when our fire burst to life. Between the lack of oxygen and a lighter with
barely enough fluid for a cigarette, we won against the odds. I m not sure if
our sherpas were more amazed by the fire, or the smores that followed
because after trying just one, they all wanted smore (ok, bad joke).
Base camp lent itself to one of the most amazing views I have seen in my
entire 24 years of existence. A sunset so intense and so moving, that even
the Incas themselves would have been left speechless. Sitting just above
the cloud line, the sun set the entire sky on fire, creating a floor of colorfrom our feet to the horizon.
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For a moment, I thought I could walk right off the cliff and onto this fiery dace floor. This visual wonder was only the opening act though, as the real magic
happened after the sun retired for the evening.
From the occasional breaks in cloud cover, I saw only a glimpse of our formally known atmosphere, that at sea level, but from cloud cover up, I discovered
a whole new world. I swear, I could see the atmospheric arch between earth and space. Just below the line, fading blue skies and just above, the grim
darkness of space. Never before have I seen so many stars. Removing clouds from the equation made each estrella seem larger and closer then ever
before. Heck, I could practically shake the man in the moons hand from where I stood. Shooting stars only added to the evenings grandeur, putting on an
immaculate light show for its more then attentive audience.
The peace that overwhelmed me in those moments was incredible. The silence is deafening , must have been quoted by someone on a similar climb
because I cannot imagine anything quieter. Lacking animal cries, rustling foliage, human conversation, and those darn taxi horns, entombed us in silence.
So far away from everything we know and so close to everything we dont know.
Didn t sleep a wink that night. Base camp was anything but comfortable. That is, unless lying on frozen rock face is your idea of a posturepedic sleep. I
was more then toasty warm in my amazing sleeping bag (thanks again parentals), but not even her synthetic cocoon could protect my ears from the
howling wind. Lying there, in an awake mans coma, deafened by the wind and paralyzed by the fear of being hurled off the volcano with every blustery
gust. Let s just say, I was more then happy to leave base camp and begin the next phase of the climb (even if it did commence at 1:30 a.m).
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IzquiedaCrunchDerechaCrunchLeftCrunchRight.Crunchwere the only thoughts in my mind
as I slowly approached her glacial peak. And just when
I thought I made it, Misti taunted me with more. I had
reached the volcano mouth but still had a grueling 45
minute climb to the highest point of her lip. I thought the
wind and cold were bad before, but that was nothing
compared to this hellish onslaught. The silence I had
known before was no more, consumed by roaring
winds. Completely exposed to mother natures fury,
each step was no longer taken for distance it was taken
for an anchor. An anchor against her final attempts to
fling us from her peak.
The summit was in sight. Mind over matter!
With my trusty head lamp switched on and a wee bit of coca tea in my belly, we were off, trucking up the volcano in night s inky darkness. Each grueling
step amplified by the crippling effects of altitude sickness, forced even the most physically fit of climbers to turn back, as they succombed to Mistis
pulmonary grasp.
Finally, 8 hours after leaving base camp, I made it. There are few things in life that have ever taken my breath away, this vista topping them all. With
Chachani Volcanos frosty peaks looming to the left and Pichu Pichus to the right, culminating with Misit s steamy crater directly below, I found myself in
an almost euphoric state. It was probably a combination of exhaustion and disarray inflicted by the altitude, but whatever it was, will stay with me forever.
Never before have I inhaled such a clean breath. Never before have I experienced such a mental high. Never before have I felt on top of the world.
I would have loved to spend hours, days, even weeks on that climbers high (literally) however, the bitter cold would not allow it. Climbing up was difficult
enough, but the downhill proved almost more taxing. Imagine skiing down a 75 degree incline, knee deep in volcanic ash. Now, add falling rocks and loose
boulders to the equation, and you have a recipe for disaster. Dodging air born boulders and ash avalanches, we made our way down, fighting the natural
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tendency to lean forward and instead keeping our knees locked and bodies cocked back. What took 13 hours to summit, took less then 4 to get down.
Check it off the list: Misti Volcano Completed!
For more of Reggie's crazy adventures, please visit: http://www.backpackerswanted.com
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