trench coat guide — gentleman's gazette
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Trench Coat Guide
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Overcoats [http://bit.ly/trench-coats-for-any-budget] and
topcoats [http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/overcoat-
topcoat-jacket-guide/] are an integral part of an elegant
gentleman’s wardrobe yet few men know what pieces
they should invest in. Therefore, I started a series to reveal
the different overcoat & topcoat styles
[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/category/wardrobe
/clothing/topcoats-ovrcoats/overcoat-styles/page/2/] .
With a rainy fall in full swing, this is the perfect season to
October 28, 2015 / 55 Comments / in Clothing, Gentleman's Gazette,
Media, Our Best Articles, Outfits, Overcoat & Topcoat Styles, Topcoats &
Overcoats, Videos, Wardrobe / by Sven Raphael Schneider
4.4KLikeLike
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discuss the Trench Coat, to explore its unique roots and
variations and to help you to find a trench that both suits
your style and your budget.
To jump directly to a paragraph, follow the links below:
I. History of the Trench Coat [#1]
II. What Makes a Trench a Trench? [#2]
III. Trench Coat Fit [#3]
IV. Where & How to Buy a Trench Coat [#4]
The Trench Coat has come a long way from the battlefieldsof the 19th century. As far as coats go, the Trench Coat is
about as iconic as they come, appreciated for their classic
form and functionality by men of all tastes. In order to find
the right Trench Coat for yourself, it is important to
understand its history.
The History of the
Trench Coat
As with many garments today, there are numerous
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theories about the exact origins of the trench coat, and
while it is impossible to find out who is right, I will try to
outline possible scenarios – you can then choose the
theory that pleases you the most!
The Early Days –Macintosh & the
Rubberized Raincoat
It seems, that the 18th-century coachman’s coat – which
American Trenchcoat of the 1940’s
[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/American-
Trenchcoat-of-the-1940s-.jpg]
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was also the predecessor of the greatcoat
[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/overcoat-topcoat-
greatcoat-terminology-explained/] – was likely the
forefather of the trench coat. Unlike modern designer
garments, each characteristic feature of the trench was
born out of practicality.
Today, the trench coat is classified as a raincoat, which
brings us to our starting point at the beginning of the
nineteenth century. Back then, gas lighting was becoming
increasingly popular, and Glasgow, Scotland, the gas was
derived from coal. In 1818, the Scotsman James Syme
realized that the by-product, coal-tar naphtha, was
capable of dissolving rubber. As has occurred so many
times in history, the inventor / discoverer passed on his
information to a savvy business person – in this case,
Charles Macintosh, who had successfully made a lot of
money with dry bleach.
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By 1823, Macintosh had found a way to make use of this
adhesive rubber solution in garments. He applied it
between two layers of cloth, which resulted in a
waterproof raincoat that did not feel at all like rubber.
Despite the fact that this raincoat had a most unpleasant
odor, the Charles Macintosh & Co. was founded in 1824Manchester, England, which was home to the cotton mills
that provided the raw materials for the raincoats.
Although Macintosh was able to sell quite a few of these
purely practical garments, the smell was not its
only undesirable feature. With the charm of a potato sack,
the coat also became sticky like honey in the heat and
hard as a board in the cold. Also, the fumes where toxic
for the factory workers. By the late 1830s, the coat had
fallen out of favor. Advances in production were made,
and so by 1854 the company Hellewell advertised the five
ounces reversible Paletot
[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/paletot-double-
breasted-overcoat/] , which looked more fashionable and
hence was popular with anybody who had to face the
elements. Overall, the second incarnation of the raincoatwas so popular that they were referred to as Macintosh .
Today, the version with a ‘k’, Mackintosh, is
more prevalent, and the company is now Japanese-
owned.
Charles Macintosh
[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Charles-
Macintosh.jpg]
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Aquascutum
While the Manchester rainwear production was about to
reach its peak, two chaps from southern England were
working on their own interpretation of this very raincoat.
One of them was John Emary, who had opened a tailorshop on Regent Street in 1851. He developed a special
raincoat that he called Aquascutum
[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aquascutum] (from the Latin
aqua = water & scutum = shield). Soon after that,
Aquascutum was producing coats for British soldiers.
Aquascutum Grey Goodlake Trenchcoat from 1854
[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Aquascutum-
Grey-Goodlake-Trenchcoat-from-1854.jpg]
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These coats reached to the ankle and were mostly made
up in a double breasted facon.
The raincoat was produced in larger numbers for the
British military beginning in 1853 and used in the Crimean
war [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crimean_war] , and it
even made an appearance during the American Civil War
(1861 – 1865), the Boer Wars [http://en.wikipedia.org
/wiki/Boer_Wars] and the Russo-Japanese War
[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Russo-Japanese_War] (1904
– 1905). The oldest likely ‘trench’ coat in existence today is
the Aquascutum on of Lt. General Gerald Goodlake
[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gerald_Goodlake] , which is
preserved at Newstead Abbey, England. He wore this coat
during the Crimean war, in which he commanded a force
of sharpshooters. On one guerrilla sortie behind the
enemy lines, Goodlake, and a sergeant were cut off by a
large body of Russian troops. The two British soldiers
fired, gun-clubbed their nearest attackers and ran into a
nearby ravine. However, the ravine filled with enemy
soldiers. To their surprise, the British found they were
ignored because of the gray raincoats coats they wore –they had been mistaken for Russians. This camouflage
enabled them to march along in the ranks of the enemy
until they had an opportunity to escape and rejoin their
own men. The gray coat worn by Goodlake is displayed
next to his general’s uniform. It was made of all wool cloth
by a famous West of England mill and waterproofed to the
extent then possible. As you can see in the photo though it
was an early predecessor of the trench coat, it does notbear many of it’s trademark features, which would
develop later on.
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Thomas Burberry
In 1856, a 21-year-old draper’s apprentice, Thomas
Burberry [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thomas_Burberry]
, opened an outerwear shop in Basingstoke. Since he had
grown up in the country, he noticed that the linengarments of farm workers had certain properties that he
wanted to transfer to overcoats and topcoats. This
farmer’s clothing was lightweight and not constricting,
warm in the winter, breathable in the summer, and
shower resistant when damp, because the material
shrank once it got moist. Although Aquascutum was the
first to produce weatherproofed raincoats on a large scale,
by the 1870’s Thomas Burberry had developed into afierce competitor.
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Unlike the rubberized version of Emary, Burberry
followed a different approach. Instead of wool, he used
sturdy fabric [http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/fabric-
guide/] that was woven of a long staple Egyptian cotton
yarn that was waterproofed before and after the weaving.
He called it Gabardine [http://en.wikipedia.org
/wiki/Gabardine] – today also known as gaberdine – which
was, in fact, an old term that had been outdated at the
time. The advantages were that it was lightweight, odor
free, hard wearing and waterproofed. In 1879, he
registered the term Gabardine as a trademark, whichwould last for 40 years. World explorers like Amundsen
and Shackleton would use Gabardine for their exhibitions,
and it was widely used during the Boer Wars.
Many Boer war veterans would also fight in the trenches
The Tielocken Trench Coat from Burberry’s
[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11
/The-Tielocken.jpg]
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of WWI, and the most famous one was Field Marshal Lord
Kitchener [http://en.wikipedia.org
/wiki/Herbert_Kitchener,_1st_Earl_Kitchener] , who cut an
iconic British figure with a mustache and a trench coat. His
preferred model was the Tielocken model, which had
been patented in 1912 as a coat with a strap and a buckle
instead of buttons and buttonholes. Many officers aspired
to follow him, and when he died on a sinking ship during
the war, he supposedly wore his trench coat, helping to
cement the coat’s by then-legendary status. As you can see
from the advertisement, the trench coat was beginning to
approach it’s traditional configuration.
Despite, Burberry’s prominent proponents, Aquascutum
also had a loyal following that would send back raving
letters from the front lines, which would go on to become
part of the Aquascutum’s advertising campaigns. During
WWI, trench coats were cut in different lengths; they were
generally shorter and sometimes they would just reach
above the knee. Moreover, they featured epaulets and
D-rings. Almost as famous as the sand, olive, and khaki
colors were blue & gray gabardine with a checked lining.While some suspect that this was a designer’s invention of
the 20th century, checked lined rainwear was, in fact, the
standard in the 1880s and 1890s. There was a period in
the mid-twentieth century in which trench coats were
often lined in solid colors, but today the checked lining is
ust as distinctive as the outer shell.
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Some may wonder why this coat remained so popular
during the interwar years, and there are a few key
reasons. Firstly, in Britain, the government had ordered
thousands of trench coats and found itself with a hefty
surplus at the end of the war. They were distributed to the
public in the 1920’s. Secondly, officers were happy to
make use of their uniforms in civilian life, especially since
this garment were tough, hard-wearing and fabricremained a scarce commodity. Thirdly, Hollywood stars
showcased the trench coat in films across the US, many of
which are cultural treasures themselves; just think of
Casablanca and Humphrey Bogart, or the Maltese Falcon.
Famous Casablanca Trench Coat Scene
[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Famous-
Casablanca-Trench-Coat-Scene.jpg]
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Since the combat strategies of WWII were different and
less trench-focused than WWI, shorter multi-functional
field jackets [http://www.gentlemansgazette.com
/overcoat-topcoat-jacket-guide/] (some even camouflaged)
were now the garment of choice, and the trench coat lost
its military significance. Of course, many have probably
seen photographs of German officers from the time in
black leather trench coats but these were worn to makean impression rather than for their practicality.
Nevertheless, the trench coat remained popular with the
public thereafter. Aquascutum blended newly-invented
nylon with cotton to create water- and wind-resistant
fabrics such as Aqua 5 , long before Gore-Tex &
Gary Cooper [http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/gary-cooper-gentleman-
style/] as soldier in Sergeant York, 1941 wearing an Over Knee Length Trench
Coat
[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Soldier-
in-Over-Knee-Length-Trench-Coat.jpg]
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Windstopper became household names. In the following
decades until today, the trench coat has been popular
with countless designers for men and women alike. Today,
Burberry Trench Coats are designer investment pieces
rather than practical garments. Anyone who knows a
thing or two about clothing might try to find a vintage
quality Burberry or Aquascutum, because these were the
durable classics that contained all the defining [] details.
What makes a
Trench a Trench?
Trench Coat Hallmarks
[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Trench-
Coat-Hallmarks.jpg]
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I can only repeat myself, but it is important to emphasize
that the trench was not invented. Rather than being
created on the whim of a designer, it evolved out of
necessity and practicality.
1. Trench Coat Fabric
100% Cotton Gabardine
For traditionalists, there is just one choice of trench coat
fabric: 100% cotton gabardine as invented by Thomas
Burberry. Tightly woven of a worsted cotton, it is both
lightweight and durable. As mentioned above, the yarn is
waterproofed as well as the finished fabric, achieving
remarkable water repellency properties during it’s heyday.
Rubberized
About 15 years ago, Mackintosh [http://en.wikipedia.org
/wiki/Mackintosh] reintroduced the rubberized coat as a
luxurious item in flashy colors. Since they were
particularly successful with Japanese women, the
company was sold to a Japanese firm. The prior owners
started Hancock [http://hancockva.com/] , which
produced rubberized garments in Scotland.
Modern Fabrics
Aquascutum’s original rubber coating invention is not
suggested, because one would easily overheat. If you want
ultimate stay-dry performance, fabrics like Gore Text orEvent fabric [http://www.gentlemansgazette.com
/wintersport-clothing-1928/] would be better suited,
however I think they just don’t look right on such a
traditional garment.
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Leather
There was a time when leather was frequently used for
trenches. German, WWII officers were infamous for their
black leather trenches. Out of respect for the victims the
Third Reich, black leather trench coats should never be
worn.
In brown colors, a trench coat resembles the style of the
1970’s and 1980’s. Moreover, it is usually heavier, and you
will not get as much use out of it. Therefore, it’s best to
stay clear of leather trench coats altogether.
2. Colors
Brauchitsch & Hitler in Black Leather Trench Coats at Warsaw Parade 1939
[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Brauchitsch-
Hitler-ain-Leather-Trench-Coat-at-Warsaw-Parade-1939.jpg]
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The most traditional color is camel / khaki. Other popular
colors include sand, stone as well as navy blue or black.
Today, you can find them in black, yellow red or and every
other color under the sun. Personally, I own three trench
coats – the first is a vintage coat in black from Burberry,
the second is a light khaki/sand color, and the third is a
darker khaki, also from Burberry. It may seem obvious,
but bear in mind the lighter the color the more quickly it is
stained. For that reason, I would never consider taking
anything but a dark trench coat with me for travel
purposes. Just like with any other garment, think about
when and where you will wear it before you buy.
3. Raglan Sleeves
The raglan sleeve made its debut in the 19th century, and
ust like the Chesterfield coat
[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/chesterfield-
overcoat/] , it owes it name to an aristocrat: FitzRoy
Somerset 1st Baron Raglan [http://en.wikipedia.org
/wiki/FitzRoy_Somerset,_1st_Baron_Raglan] .
As with many other garments,
[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/waiscoat-button/]
there are two stories here. During Waterloo, Lord Raglan
injured his right arm that had to be amputated.
One source indicates that he requested a coat designed so
he could dress more quickly. His tailor obliged and
created a short coat with a simple diagonal sleeve seam
setting that extended from the neck to the underarm,
without a distinctive sleeve head.
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According to Graeme Fidler, Lord Raglan wanted to help
soldiers to keep warm and hence devised a garment madefrom a potato sack, which was slit at the neck and slashed
diagonally across the corners to allow the arms to move
freely. Why anyone would want to imitate the style of a
potato-sack coat, I have no idea, but there you have it.
Traditional 5×2 Double Breasted Trenchcoat with Raglan Sleeves
[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Traditional-
5x2-Double-Breasted-Trenchcoat.jpg]
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In my personal experience, I haven’t noticed a huge
difference in mobility between the two cuts. One might
feel the difference in a bespoke trench, but off the rack,
raglan armholes are often huge and don’t allow for more
mobility.
Overall, I think mobility is more a question of proper
tailoring than the choice of style. Of the two vintage
Burberrys’ trenches I own, one has a regular sleeve and
the other a raglan and to me they feel the same
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However, I would agree that it is easier to put on a raglan-
sleeved coat, which was the original reason Raglan wanted
such a coat (according to one story).
Again, the traditionalist would choose the raglan sleeve
while I would council everyone else to take whatever fits
best.
4. Double Breasted
By its military origin, a trench coat is traditionally double
breasted and features ten buttons on the front. Of course,
there are all kinds of double breasted and single breasted
versions available with multiple button & beltconfigurations, but the first coat has always been the 5×2
DB cut. Personally, I much prefer the look of this
silhouette over any others.
5. Epaulettes
The infamous shoulder tabs often seen on militaryuniforms also found their way on a trench coat, but they
were not added merely to indicate rank. Much rather, they
were used to secure gas masks, gloves
[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/shop/leather-
Single breasted trench coat variation without Raglan sleeves by GG reader
Malcolm Kindness
[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Single-
breasted-trench-coat-ariation-without-raglan-sleeves.jpg]
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goods/gloves?limit=all] , or whistles.
6. Gun Patch / StormFlap
The gun patch fulfilled two functions. It could serve as a
gun flap for the recoil of the rifle, but more importantly, it
prevented rain water flowing down the shoulders from
entering the inside of the gun. Personally, I rarely use thisfeature but it can never hurt, I suppose.
Gun Flap or Strom Patch on a Trench Coat
[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Gun-Flap-
or-Strom-Patch-on-a-Trench-Coat.jpg]
[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Collar-
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7. Hook & Eye and
Throat Latch
ust below the large collar, you will find a hook and eye
that allows you to keep easily your collar closed up all the
way. It is often secured with a strap and buckle system
that is hidden underneath the collar – also known as a
throat latch. I find it particularly useful to protect myself
from cold winds in combination with a scarf
[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com
/shop/scarves?limit=all] .
8. Belt with D-Rings
Initially, the belt with its D-Rings was used to suspend
items of equipment, such as grenades or even swords.
By time trench coat appeared, the sword was already
Collar Hook on a Burberry’s Trench Coat
Hook-on-a-Burberrys-Trench-Coat.jpg]
Belt with D-Rings, Leather Buckle & Storm Pocket
[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Belt-with-D-
Rings-Leather-Buckle-Storm-Pocket.jpg]
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merely decorative. Today, the belt enables you to create
an attractive silhouette by defining the waistline. In theory,
you could still use the D-Rings, though the belt loops
might rip off rather quickly.
Trench Coat Throat Latch.
In case you shop at amazon and we refer you, prices are the same as normal,
we just get a small commission. Thanks! [http://target.georiot.com
/Proxy.ashx?TSID=12980&GR_URL=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com
%2F%3Ftag%3Dgentsgaze-20]
[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Trench-
Coat-Throat-Latch..jpg]
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[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/gentlemen-golden-age-ebook
/?banner=mid_text_up onClick=]
[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/valentines-gifts-
for-her?banner=mid_text_up onClick=]
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9. Sleeve Straps
The sleeve straps on the cuffs can be tightened to keepout the elements. I rarely tighten these buckles because it
is a pain to get out of the coat after the fact, but I can see
why they are useful for a cold and rainy day.
10. Deep Yoke Back
Saddle
The deep back yoke allowed the water roll onto the floor
rather than down the back of the wearer. This feature is
not seen on many other garments and as such, it is
unique to the trench.
[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/valentines-gifts-for-him
/?banner=mid_text_up onClick=]
Button to Close the Wedged Vent
[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Button-
to-Close-the-Wedged-Vent.jpg]
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11. Wedge Back
For soldiers to be able to move quickly, every trench coat
had a vent. To keep you dry and warm, it was tailored with
a wedge.
I can attest from personal experience, that wedged vents
Trench Coat with High Collar, Deep Yoke Back, Belt with D-Rings & Wedged
Back Vent
[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Trench-
Coat-with-High-Collar-Deep-Yoke-Back-Belt-with-D-Rings-Wedged-Back-Vent.jpg]
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are great because they continue to block the wind and
rain while allowing added movement. If you do not like
the look of it, you can always button it up.
12. Through StormPockets
The storm pockets can be buttoned up from the outside to
keep out the rain. All proper trench coats have through
pockets than can be reached from the inside and outside.
I like this feature when traveling because I can wear the
coat buttoned or unbuttoned, and I always have access to
my wallet, passport, etc.
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13. Leather Buckles
Leather buckles were available back then, and I like the
look of them though technically metal buckles would
perform just as well, if not better in the long run. Since the
buckles are often handled , leather is often worn in this
location, especially on vintage garments.
14. Checked Lining
Traditional Leather Buckled Sleeve Straps
[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Traditional-
Leather-Buckled-Sleeve-Straps.jpg]
[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Through-
Pockets-with-Classic-Burberry-House-Tartan.jpg]
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Traditionally, trench coats feature a checked lining.
Burberry now offers six different checks in various sizes.
The Equestrian Knight pattern is characteristic, but the
classic house check is probably the most widespread for
trench coats, and it features the tan, black, white and red
tartan without any branding.
Aquascutum introduced their hallmark club check lining
“Club 92” in 1967, which is now also known as
the Aquascutum Club.
For the cooler days, a removable wool lining can be
attached with buttons (for coats with this option), which
makes it all the more versatile. My old non-Burberry
“Made in England” coat has a lovat green
[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/lovat-green-summer-
acket/] liner that is made of 95% wool with 5% camel
Through Pockets with Classic Burberry House Tartan
Aquascutum Club Check Lining “Club 92.”
[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Aquascutum-
Club-Check-Lining.jpg]
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hair, and I can recommend it.
15. Made in England
The original coats were made in England, but as you
probably know by now, quality is not limited to a
particular country [http://www.gentlemansgazette.com
/made-in-the-usa-quality/] , and you can find both crap
and high quality just about anywhere.
Burberry makes most of their coats in Turkey nowadays
and Aquascutum in Italy. Both are fashion brands, as is
Mackintosh. Hancock provides rubberized coats, but I am
sure a tailor could make them for [] you too. Burberrys’
Trench Coat from Pre 1999 were usually made in England
but take a look at the buying section below for more
details.
Trench Coat Fit
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Most trenches are not worn skin tight since they were
worn over other garments, such as uniforms, suits, etc.
ust like with any garment, you have to decide how you
want to wear it.
If you wish to wear a suit underneath of it, bring a suit
when you try coats on, and wear it both with and without
your suit coat. Also, decide whether you want a
detachable liner or not, as it is not easy to add one in after
the fact.
The sleeve should reach to the root of your thumb, so
your sleeves underneath are covered completely, and
your shirt [http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/the-shirt-
guide/] cuff remain out of view when you move around.
Anything longer than that will make you look like you
haven’t yet made it to the alterations tailor.
How To Choose the
Right Trench Coat
Length
Bear in mind, there is not one traditional length. Ads and
pictures from back in the day range from above the knee
Steve McQueen in Blue Trench Coat 1963
[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Steve-
McQueen-in-Trench-Coat-1963.jpg]
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to the mid-calf and sometimes even to the ankle.
The most versatile coats are worn at about knee length.
Short Men
Simply choose what feels right to you tough bear in mind
that an ankle-length coat might be overwhelming for a
smaller frame while an above-the-knee coat will
help elongate your legs.
Tall Men
The opposite is true for taller men, who should avoid
short coats that would only elongate the legs further.
I am 6′ / 183cm tall, and my Burberrys’ Trench coats reach
ust below the knee, and my third coat is knee length. I
probably prefer the below-the-knee versions, but that’s
ust personal taste.
Trench Coat Alterations
As with most garments on the rack, keep in mind that you
can make them smaller by one or two sizes, but rarelybigger. Never have extreme alterations done since it will
distort proportions of belt line, buttons, pockets, etc., and
you will look unintentionally [] awkward, despite all your
efforts.
Where to Buy aTrench Coat?
Basically, you have three options.
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1. Used coats. Old Burberrys’ or Aquascutum coats are
the real deal and should last you for years, as I can attest,
but it may be tedious or expensive to find one in good
condition. I happened to spot my first one for 125 EUR in a
men’s vintage store in Germany, so it’s worth investigating
what you like and keep an eye for it. Alternatively, you can
take a look on eBay [http://bit.ly/trench-coats-for-any-
budget] , where you can always find a plethora of
different trench coats.
2. Off the Rack. Obviously it is the easiest and quickest
route to buy a new trench coat at a store. Burberry still
Aquascutum Kingsgate Trench Coat
[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Aquascutum-
Kingsgate-Trench-Coat.jpg]
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carries their original styles, but it will set you back about
$1800 [http://us.burberry.com/store/trench-coats/mens-
trench-coats/london/prod-36548881-long-cotton-
gabardine-trench-coat/] or 750£
[http://www.aquascutum.co.uk/] for Aquascutum. As I
mentioned in the used section, they do tend to last, so
they might be a good piece to invest in and treat with care.
In any case, there is a good resale market for Burberry
trenches. However, smaller companies like Francis
Campelli [http://www.franciscampelli.com/] , also produce
quality garments according to our British readers.
3. Bespoke. If your tailor can source the right kind of
gaberdine and the wool liner as well as the pattern, a
custom trench is certainly an option that is hardly more
expensive than the established brands.
How To Buy A Used
Burberry TrenchCoat
Burberry is the most well-known brand when it comes to
Trench Coats. Hence we pub together this mini-guide on
How To Buy a Burberry Trench:
Not All Burberry
Trenches Are Alike –Get A Burberrys’
It’s important to know that Burberrys to BURBERRY in
Click to see a selection of 80+ Trench Coats [http://bit.ly/trench-coats-for-any-budget]
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1999. Most gentlemen prefer the pre-1999 trench coats to
post-1999 versions because they were almost completely
made in England. Today, BURBERRY is more of a fashion
brand than a provider of top quality garments.
Burberrys’ vs. BURBERRY
Fortunately, it’s very easy to distinguish the coats:
The pre-1999 trench coats have a label that reads
Burberrys’ with an s and ‘ at the end. The font is usually
white on a navy or dark blue label.
Trench coats with a BURBERRY label without the S are
post-1999 and mostly made in Italy, Turkey, Malaysia.
1.
Other Burberry Labels
Tom complicate matters, the company has a number of
other labels which are also used for Trench Coats:
BURBERRY BLACK LABEL and BURBERRY BLUE LABEL
are made tailored for Japanese customers under license
Burberrys’ pre-1999 Made in England Label
[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Burberrys-
Made-in-England.jpg]
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by Sanyo Shokai. While a few of them are made in Japan,
the bulk of these trench coats is made in China. I would
recommend you stay clear of those.
BURBERRY PRORSUM is the high-end label of the
company. It is generally more fashion forward with a price
tag to match. If you find one you like, go for it, though it
has not much to do with the traditional British Trench
Coat Burberrys’ was famous for.
Recommendation – go with pre 1999Burberrys’
My favorite trench coats are the ones made pre 1999 with
Burberrys’ labels. They are generally well made, last a long
time and they are simply the real deal.
The details below pertain to these pre 1999 trench coats
only!
Sizing
The sizing of Burberry Trench coats can be very confusing.
Well fitting Trench Coat worn by Alain Delon
[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/alain-delon-gentleman-style/]
[http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Trench-
Coat-Guide.jpg]
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On top of that, trench coat cuts have varied over the years.
Therefore it is extremely important to go by
measurements especially if you buy a trench coat on eBay
[http://bit.ly/trench-coats-for-any-budget] or online in
general, because otherwise you may end up with
something that looks like a potato sack.
Old Burberrys’ Trench Coats come in a rather unusual
sizing system that is a mix between the U.S./UK sizing and
continental European sizing. The size is always marked on
a white size label inside the left pocket in the “NAME” field.
Size 50 equals U.S./UK size 40. The additions of REG, S or L
pertain to the length of the trench coat., For example tall
people should usually go with a L or REG version but
they can still go with S if you prefer a very short trench
coat. The problem might be that that sleeve length is not
long enough. On the other hand, a short person may want
to go with REG instead of S and have the coat and sleeves
shortened. Always bear in mind that changing too much
will make you look weird because the proportions of your
garment will be off.
To help you find the right size, check out this table. Bear in
mind that exact measurements are more accurate than
any sizing!
REG
Burberry
Sizing
44
REG
46
REG
48
REG
50
REG
52
REG
54
REG
56
REG
58
REG
U.S. / UK
Sizing
34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48
European
Sizing
44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58
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S
Burberry
Sizing
44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58
U.S. / UK
Sizing
34 S 36 S 38 S 40 S 42 S 44 S 46 S 48 S
European
Sizing
22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29
L
Burberry
Sizing
44 L 46 L 48 L 50 L 52 L 54 L 56 L 58 L
U.S. / UK
Sizing
34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48
European
Sizing
90 94 98 102 106 110 114 118
Authentic or Fake
Burberry?
Due to the popularity of the Trench Coat and the Burberry
brand, you will occasionally counterfeited Burberry trench
coats. Fortunately, most fakes are of low quality and
relatively easy to spot. These are the things you should
pay attention to:
Neat Stitching: Genuine Burberry trench coats
feature neat seams and stitching. For example the belt
loops are carefully reinforced with a little square stitch
whereas fakes often feature sloppy stitching and little
1.
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to no attention to detail.
Matching Nova Check Pattern: On genuine
Burberrys’ Trench coats the Nova Check lining
matches up neatly and it is always in the colors beige,
white, black and red. Different colors or mismatched
checks are a hallmark of fakes.
2.
White Size Label: Genuine pre-1999 trench coats
have a white label in the left pocket with a Name and
Order field. The size is always in the Name field. On
the liner, the size label is hidden underneath the navy
blue Burberrys label. If you cannot find these labels
and they were not removed, it is a fake.
3.
Quality Gabardine Fabric: The Burberry Gabardine is
very hard wearing and anything but flimsy. You can
find it in 100% cotton, 51% Cotton 49% Polyester and
67% Polyester 33% Cotton. Every other compositions
are not genuine.
4.
When to Wear &
When Not to Weara Trench Coat?
Today, I would wear it for all kinds of daywear activities,
except formal morning dress
[http://www.morningdressguide.com] . It is appropriate
with casual wear as well as business suits, and it is an ideal
travel companion due to its moderate to light weight,
water repellency, and versatility. Despite its manifold uses,
please bear in mind that the trench coat is not appropriate
for formal evening wear such as black tie or white tie.
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REPLIES
Sven Raphael SchneiderNovember 10, 2012 at 11:11 AM
You are right. It stands corrected now.
guerrasNovember 9, 2012 at 7:15 PM
It is not Salvador Dali, it is Peter Sellers in Pink
Panther.
Sorry, but that is a silly mistake : )
Ahmed SajeelNovember 9, 2012 at 10:42 PM
Deliciously elaborate … well done and thank you
55
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Sven Raphael SchneiderNovember 10, 2012 at 11:12 AM
He definitely has a strong resemblance but I
don’t think we ever fought as a soldier, so it
could only be a movie. Any hints in that matter
are appreciated.
Mark HewittOctober 29, 2015 at 12:59 AM
My hunch this is from the movie ”
Sergeant York ” a 1941 film directed by
Howard Hawks starring Gary Cooper (
he in the photo ) for which he won an
Oscar for best actor.
F-M ChaballierNovember 10, 2012 at 7:09 AM
I think the soldier pictured in the 15th picture is
Gary Cooper. Can someone confirm?
Mark SeitelmanNovember 13, 2012 at 9:33 AM
The photo of the soldier is probably Gary Cooper.
It could be from his famous film, “Sergeant York.”
The trench coat has endured as a classic. In
comparison, another military coat, the British
warm, is rarely seen. It was once very popular and
was available in classic clothiers. This is no longer
the case, but all classic clothiers carry trench
coats.
I have a couple of classic English trench coats as
well as a few more “fashion forward” models
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Sven Raphael SchneiderNovember 13, 2012 at 10:14 AM
Thanks for your comment, Mark. We discussed
the Gary Cooper question on Facebook and
basically, two movies were suggested. I have
not taken a look at the myself yet, so I cannot
confirm
which do not religiously follow all of the detailing
and fabric choices. For example, I have a couple of
Alan Flusser raincoats in a bamboo microfiber.
These were made in Italy.
It is interesting that in view of the detailing and
expensive materials (quality cotton exterior and
interior and leather buckles), an authentic trench
coat can be over $1,500.
Brooks Brothers and Paul Stuart offer excellent
trench coats under their own label. I would say
that Paul Stuart’s coat is excellent.
submariinerNovember 13, 2012 at 10:11 PM
My navy color trench issued from the coast guard
does plenty of double duty work in the civilian
world.
JamesNovember 15, 2012 at 1:20 AM
Hello, could you please answer this question
concerning where to buy a bespoke one?
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Trackbacks & Pingbacks
Pitti Uomo 87 — Gentleman's Gazette January 19, 2016 at 11:34 PM
1.
http://b.qr.ae/W8v7t8
Ray FrenshamNovember 15, 2012 at 6:04 PM
Excellent study – I am still reading through it.
Bravo……..
Eventually you should collate all these wise words
(on various garments) and bring them out as a
book….. (I bags write the Foreword!).
nik Ismail almurtadzaNovember 18, 2012 at 12:55 AM
What are other brands that’s worthy of
mentioning?
murtadza
BradNovember 18, 2012 at 6:25 PM
At least two men seem to be dead in the trench
while others are stepping over their bodies… But
sorry, we’re talking of Aquascutum and Burberry’s.
We may appreciate those (too expensive)
garments but I’m afraid the picture is quiteinappropriate.
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CharlesDecember 27, 2012 at 5:22 PM
I don’t think the Bogie promo shot #13 is from
Casablanca. This still from Casablanca shows a
coat with set shoulders and two gun flaps – the
Aquascutum Kingsway – while the shot of Bogart
has raglan sleeves and only a right-hand gun flap.
http://thechicspy.com/wp-content/uploads
/2012/03/Bogart-Bergman-Casablanca-1942.jpg
Sven Raphael SchneiderDecember 27, 2012 at 11:05 PM
Charles, thank you for your comment! Could it be
that he wore an Aquascutum and that he later
switched to Burberry? I am pretty sure that the
last picture is in fact from Casablance, see here
NikolaosDecember 28, 2012 at 10:48 PM
apart from the standard british trench coat
houses, one can find excellent examples of the
garment at the italian allegri and american –
japanese sanyo
Dan January 20, 2013 at 3:00 PM
If you ever find yourself in London then the
Burberry and Aquascutum outlets are great
places to pick up a trench coat for significantly
less than the regular price. I bought mine
(admittedly in the sale) in for third of the price it
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Sven Raphael Schneideranuary 21, 2013 at 12:05 AM
Thanks for the hint Dan, can you share a
specific address with us?
Sven Raphael SchneiderOctober 28, 2015 at 11:43 PM
You can still find them on ebay occasionally. On
their website they seem to offer some “trench
coats” with double gun flap, so obviouly they
are more fashion forward now.
should have been.
The two store are next to each other in the middle
of a somewhat run down industrial in Hackney.
Worth making the trip though.
peterOctober 28, 2015 at 9:13 PM
What about London Fog trench coats? They were
made in America, I have not seen them lately.
Thanks for the great article.
LAStyleGuyOctober 28, 2015 at 11:05 PM
Loved your article on trench coats. But as an
owner of a vintage Burberry trench, I’m afraid
you’re incorrect–they no longer make their
traditional model . Everything today is higher style,
and above-the-knee versions. I’m babying my real
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Sven Raphael Schneider
October 28, 2015 at 11:41 PM
Well, they always had plenty of different
models with different cuts. Yes, they do not
make the pre-1999 style ones, but I would still
call them a trench coat. But as highlighted in
the article, the pre-1999 is my favorite too.
Sven Raphael SchneiderOctober 29, 2015 at 9:53 AM
Yes it was!
classic 100% cotton gabardine model, and hope it
lasts a lifetime, because I’m afraid I’ll never be
able to replace it.
Old SchoolOctober 29, 2015 at 12:29 AM
Was the shop in Hamburg Rudolf Beaufays?
One of my favorites.
(Known to the local expat crowd as “Dead
Englishmen”)
AdamOctober 29, 2015 at 5:16 AM
The one problem that I have with Trench Coats is
that I always seem to lose the belts.
I have a very hard time when trying to locate
replacements (even when contacting makers) –
colour matching seems to be a particular problem
for me, and I do not like compromising on a belt
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Sven Raphael SchneiderOctober 29, 2015 at 9:54 AM
Get one with D-Rings because that prevents the
belt from coming out of the loops.
Sven Raphael SchneiderOctober 29, 2015 at 9:55 AM
I am glad to hear they still do that! I wonder
how many different patterns they offer and if
they can supply the old fabric qualities etc.
that is not quite the same colour/shade as the
original.
Do you have any suggestions?
Carl
October 29, 2015 at 7:47 AM
Great article.
At Burberrys HQ store in London you can have a
trench coat made up to your own design using
their old patterns, so you can add or subtract D
rings, gun flaps etc or just choose an original WWI
design.
With anniversaries of WWI battles and the
Anglo-Irish War (where they were popular with
Guerillas operating as Flying Columns, many
being WWI veterans as well as Auxilaries and
Black & Tans) and 1916 Rising commemorations
coming up no doubt the trench will remain a hot
product in style terms.
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Frank GadsonOctober 29, 2015 at 11:26 AM
Excellent information thanks so very much!
Greg from ChathamOctober 29, 2015 at 8:44 PM
Absolutely an incredible amount of information —
and great photographs — in this article!
Well done!
PrincipeOctober 30, 2015 at 11:35 AM
Dear Sven – got my pre-1999 Burberrys at an
(Anglican) Church of England thrift shop for $1
(Cdn)! I highly recommend Anglican thrift shops in
Canada and the USA, plus the Oxfam shops in the
Home Counties (UK). Thank you for a most
excellent and informative article, I really learned a
lot for future “expeditions.”
JoeOctober 31, 2015 at 11:48 AM
I tried to leave a comment on the Burberry
trenches earlier, but it seems to have gotten lost.
My apologies if this ends up being a duplicate.
Looking at Burberry’s web site, I see the Heritage
collection prominently displayed and in that
collection is the Westminster, a long, traditional
trench. Here is the description they provide:
…”classic fit trench coat, The Westminster is
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tailored to the body with a generous cut.
The coat is made in England from weatherproof
cotton gabardine, invented by Thomas Burberry in
1879.”
https://us.burberry.com/the-westminster-
long-heritage-trench-coat-p39066901
Now, I don’t know the older ones so I’ll defer to
you folks who own them and know them well, but
this description seems to contradict the
comments above that say everything is high style,
above the knee, not made of cotton gabardine,
etc.
I’d love to own a previously enjoyed, well cared forclassic Burberry for a song, but as with all such
things, getting my larger size, a genuine article, in
a color I want, with no rotting leather buckle
covers, etc… all seems rather dicey. And while I’ve
done some good business on eBay, it’s a
treacherous place sometimes. I wanted a Beck
Diplomat shoe polisher and I wanted to be sure it
would be something I would actually use and
enjoy before I spent nearly $300 on a new one.
eBay supplied a reasonable one for $60 and while
it isn’t perfect, I now know how awesome they are
and if I want perfection, I will gladly pay full retail. I
don’t have to do that with a Burberry trench as
there is a Burberry retail store nearby for me to
try them on with my suit on, etc., as this article
suggests. I like getting a deal but if I’m wearing it
in public, it needs to be up to my standards. I think
the Westminster in Navy would be my choice.
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Sven Raphael SchneiderOctober 31, 2015 at 1:57 PM
Thanks for sharing Joe, this is indeed a made in
England coat. The old ones did not have the
undercollar check and $1895 is steep for cotton
gabardine but hey, it is an attractive cut for
sure.
That being said, it’s not difficult to find big sizes
because they were often cut large…
ps: when you post links, comments are held for
moderation because we get about 3,000 spam
comments a day and so we need to filter by
certain criteria.
Sven Raphael SchneiderNovember 1, 2015 at 8:22 PM
Dennis, I am glad to hear that. Well done!
DennisNovember 1, 2015 at 5:07 PM
Mate,
Thank you so much for the article! Armed with
this information, I went hunting for a trench coat
and you cannot imagine my delight when I found
a Burberrys not only in my size but also in near
mint condition for just over $200 at the very first
op shop I visited! The label says “Made in England
for Harrods”, but Google tells me that’s fine
LBNovember 3, 2015 at 7:50 AM
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Sven Raphael SchneiderNovember 3, 2015 at 6:18 PM
Each to his own.
I would get rid of the emblems on the epaulettes. I
don’t think anyone would believe that you were in
the British Army, and it’s a bit like wearing the
regalia of a college that you didn’t attend. Even as
a former soldier, I would probably keep any
references to my old regiment down to switching
the buttons. I think you rather lessen the
authenticity when you add emblems to a piece of
clothing that don’t really have anything to do with
you.
MikeNovember 4, 2015 at 12:47 AM
A lot of nonsense in this “article” regarding
German trench coats in WW2. We shouldn’t wear
black leather trench coats? Absurd, the roads are
clogged with Mercedes Benz autos. One can’t see
it in black and white photos, but German army
officers wore field green leather trench coats, air
force was light grey, Nazi party officials wore
brown, SS officers wore black.
PrincipeNovember 14, 2015 at 1:49 PM
Dear Sven- further to my remarks of 30
October…on 12 November specifically went
hunting for a new (ie, used) trenchcoat at a large
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Sven Raphael SchneiderNovember 25, 2015 at 4:25 PM
Well, it is not unlikely that they worked for
Austin Reed.
2nd hand store here in Canada and found an Yves
St Laurent for $8.99 Cdn! The only thing lacking is
the belt. Now to find one with D rings and
matching khaki colour……. and thank you again for
your most informative article. Looking fwd to
reading more of your posts.
LisaNovember 25, 2015 at 2:12 PM
Hi there,
I came across your great article while doing some
research about the vintage burberry’s trench I
found at a garage sale.
Mine fits all the details of your pre-1999 above,
however not only does it have a navy blue
Burberry’s label, it also has an Austin reed label
seen just under it.
I can’t find anything about Burberry’s making
coats for Austin Reed. Do you have any thoughts
on this? Thanks!
Jack WuDecember 27, 2015 at 10:17 PM
May I ask why one should steer clear of Chinese
made coats? Where is your iPhone made? Do you
own any Chinese made Burberry products? If so,
was the quality so bad that it made you feel the
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Sven Raphael SchneiderDecember 30, 2015 at 12:24 PM
ack, I do neither use an iphone nor a made in
China Burberry trench coat. I just visited China
for several weeks and the level of quality I
encountered often leaves a lot to be desired.
Yes, I felt the need to warn our readersbecause they do not stack up at the moment.
If you read our articles, you will see that we
strongly believe that you can find quality
anywhere. That being said, most ready made
clothing and things like ties and pocket squares
are still way off from European standards.
However, that may change in the future. 100
years ago, Made in Germany was perceived in a
similar way as Made in China is now, but Made
in Germany today is often perceived as
excellence. Who knows maybe a few years
down the road China will have better products.
Today, you find more bad Chinese products
than good ones in my experience.
Jack WuDecember 30, 2015 at 11:03 PM
Perhaps that is true of many cheaply
made Chinese products, of which
similar quality I’m sure you can find
manufactured in any country–however
need to warn others about products from my
country?
Little tired of and offended by hearing of the awful
quality of Chinese made products, as QC has
improved greatly in the last decade.
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we are not talking about the quality of
clothing in general. You warned your
readers about Chinese made Burberry
Black/Blue label products; so I ask you
about your experience specifically with
Chinese made Burberry Black/Blue
label products. If, as you now claim,
you have no experience with Chinese
made Burberry Black/Blue products, I
would expect you to retract your
statement. As you have admitted
yourself, quality can be found
anywhere, much like my example of
Chinese made iPhones (and I’m sure
there are many other examples).
When it comes to quality, really the
most important thing is experience and
QC. Apple is able to produce such a
polished product in China because of
tight QC. You assume Burberry is not
able to do the same with their
suppliers?
Sven Raphael
SchneiderDecember 31, 2015 at 2:30 PM
ack,
I suggest you read what I write
before claiming I said
something I did not.
I never said I had no experience
with Chinese Burberry
Trenchcoat, I said I do not use
them, that is a huge difference.
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I have been to China
and I have seen
China-made Trench
coats in person, I tried
them on and inspected
them closely and I do
not want them because
the workamnship, the
fabric and the cut were
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